Recent Posts

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Vehicles & Models / Re: Chris' Build of a Lombard Hauler Engine
« Last post by crueby on Today at 08:03:17 PM »
Thanks Bob!

I was corresponding with the folks up at the museum, and got pointed to one of the web site pages that I had missed before, showing the earlier restoration work on the hauler as a series of photos (click on the numbered captions down the side to view the photos). Very interesting stuff, turns out they cast new cylinders for the engine, and made up new roller chain, and got replacement drive chain from the original manufacturer. Very interesting sequence.

http://www.umit.maine.edu/~herbert.crosby/LOMBARD/frame.htm

The higher level of the web site is here:
http://www.umit.maine.edu/~herbert.crosby/lombard2/
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From Plans / Re: 1st I.C. build "Tiny"
« Last post by gbritnell on Today at 07:45:25 PM »
The whole thing looks great Bob. I'm anxiously awaiting your and Bill's first pops.
gbritnell
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Machines, Tools and Fixtures / Re: CX701 Lathe Report
« Last post by Jo on Today at 07:34:48 PM »
I have been using the DRO set-up on my lathe for a few months now, and it's absolutely wonderful. Even though they are an expensive brute of a thing, they are well worth the money paid for them.

People who have never used a lathe with a DRO fitted don't know what they are missing ;).

If you have the money, there is no excuse for not treating yourself to a DRO on your lathe(s)   8).

Jo
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From Kits/Castings / Re: A simple Vertical Steam Engine.
« Last post by Jo on Today at 07:30:55 PM »
The tops of the connecting rods could be held in the vice for machining, but the bottoms had to be hung out the end and supported with a jack.

As you can see the Malleable Iron has hard bits all the way through  :(

Now to think about the tops. The problem is I don't have a 16mm carbide slot drill  :thinking:

Jo
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From Plans / Re: Vince's version of the Monitor Steam Engine
« Last post by bruedney on Today at 07:02:00 PM »
I used the 3 at 45deg with no flats - no problems. I suppose it depends on the load. My valve rods were binding due to the tendency to tip with only one end supported hence my redesign of valves and rods to allow for support at both side of the steam chest.

I also drilled and tapped the 2 halves and added a 3mm screw just to make sure the loctite didn't let go. I cut the heads off and filed flat

Looking good though Vince

Cheers
Bruce
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Chatterbox / Re: Need M3.5x.6 flat head screw...
« Last post by 10KPete on Today at 07:00:04 PM »
Thank you for all the suggestions. I was having a bit of a melt down yesterday with too many things going on around here.

John, I guess I simply didn't see the listing in McMC. I have ordered those.

The thought that there might be an imperial size close enough to work hadn't occurred to me, Jason. Thank you.

And Nick, I don't think I have even seen a BA fastener here but that's another example of how close different systems can be.

It's amazing the diverse knowledge of the folks here. A screw from a Bing carb used on a BMW scooter..... wow.

I did consider tapping the inserts out to 4mm but that would leave a very thin wall in the brass. Too thin I thought plus they are moulded in and would have required a hand held drill.... not enough control for the size. Too risky. And then I would really have had to rely on JB weld!!

Thanks to you all,

Pete

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Machines, Tools and Fixtures / Re: CX701 Lathe Report
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 06:21:36 PM »
I have been using the DRO set-up on my lathe for a few months now, and it's absolutely wonderful. Even though they are an expensive brute of a thing, they are well worth the money paid for them. They do however, show up some things that I wasn't really aware of. I like to have the gibs on my cross slide free enough that it lets me move the cross slide with very little effort. With the DRO in place and operating, it soon became clear that when taking a cut parallel to the axis of the mill, the cross slide would "back up" of it's own accord from whatever I had it initially set at. Okay, that is easily enough fixed by locking the cross slide before taking a cut each time. This is a pain, and the bolt which locks the cross slide in place is not all that convenient to get at with a hex wrench. Way back on posts 106 thru 110 I showed the lock handle I had made up for the carriage lock. It works great, and although it takes a bit of fitting to get the required clearances looked after, the handle is much more convenient than grabbing a wrench each time to lock the carriage in place. I wanted a similar hand operated lock for the cross slide, and after a mornings farting around I have one. Basically, I silver soldered an extension onto the head of the cross slide lock bolt (the only one of the gib screws that doesn't have a locknut). Of course, it falls right into the area where the carriage lock handle is, so there is a bit of measuring and "try it and see if it clears" engineering involved there, but it works and it clears the top of the carriage lock lever. Now I can tighten it with my fingers tight enough that the cross slide doesn't move when I'm taking a longitudinal cut under power.
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Hints, Tips & Tricks / Re: Cutting Spur Gears
« Last post by 90LX_Notch on Today at 05:22:39 PM »
Nice Bob.  I plan on making a cutter when I make the gears for the "Tiny".   Strictly I.C. had an article about making a cutter along the same lines as yours.  I'll have to look at the site you referenced above.

-Bob
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Vehicles & Models / Re: 4"Burrell single crank compound traction engine
« Last post by scc on Today at 05:13:54 PM »
Just to clear up any mis-understandings...Terry is NOT big enough to put this thing under his arm :lolb:
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Vehicles & Models / Re: Chris' Build of a Lombard Hauler Engine
« Last post by 90LX_Notch on Today at 05:12:47 PM »
Looking good Chris. 

-Bob
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