Golly, I'm just finishing my morning coffee and you have all this done already :-) I need to up my game, a lot.

gerrit

Well, I DID do the center hole and perimeter holes yesterday, so sleep in!   

Lots of progress on the worm wheel - the center shaft hole was milled out to size while it was still on the faceplate and centered from doing the rim:

raising it up several times as I got close to measure and test with a bit of the shaft material (3/4")

and also drilled the holes around the rim to bolt on the side flange plates

which look like this

Then, got the vertical rotary table set up for cutting the gear teeth. This time I checked multiple times to make sure I had the angle going the right way, unlike the rope drum wheel where I had done it backwards.    Hard to tell in the picture, but the end of the rotary table base plate farthest from the camera is blocked up to tilt the table to match the angle of the teeth on the worm shaft.


Then set up with a M1.75 Nbr8 gear cutter, centered on the side of the rim, and zeroed the left/right handwheel ready to start making the cuts. For the worm wheel, these cuts are made as plunge cuts rather than the normal cuts across the face on a spur gear. These are to give the hob cutter a starting point for cutting the teeth while pulling the gear around in sync with the cutter rotation. Whoever invented gear hobbing was clever!

So far I've gotten about a third of the way around, time for a break. I've got a list of handwheel positions for the rotary table to cut the 102 teeth, and am checking them off as I make each cut.  Here is the worm shaft held up to the teeth to check the spacing, good so far...

After all the teeth are precut like this, I'll set the wheel up on an arbor that allows it to spin while keeping it in place in/out, and set up with the tap to hob it.

Great idea and execution of making a wheel from smaller bits 

Per 

Thanks Per!  After pricing discs/slabs of brass that large, I went straight to the bar stock rack to see what I had on hand. These bars are the leftover from the Ward pump engine frames, so far this is working out quite well for this gear. Likewise for why I printed the side panels and chain drums - it would have taken a massive amount of material to make all of them from metal, most of it too large for my lathe! Neccessity is the mother of What The Heck Do I Do Now!   

I am probably mixing 10:1 isoprop vs oil. To be honest the main goal is to clear chips with the air blast, esp. in aluminum.

One excellent feature of the code is that setting the flow rate pot to zero you can push one of the buttons to reverse the pump and empty the hose of fluid.

gerrit

A MQL feed rate of about 15 drops per minute should not create any significant isoprop fume hazard.
Did you notice any comparability issues between the isoprop and the silicon or nylon pipework?

Mike

Hi Mike

Thanks for your response.  Clearly the arrangements for your club display are a little different to the normal so I will put your requests into our master plan and normal procedures and flex as we need to - again our operational detail I can sort nearer to the date once I  know details of exhibitors and their models.

Are you happy to be the main contact so we can send you the club documentation etc which will include exhibitor details in due course.

Many thanks

Avril