Model Engine Maker
Supporting => Tooling & Machines => Topic started by: vcutajar on November 17, 2015, 09:03:03 PM
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If you can't see the photos of this build suggest you go here:
https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Worden_1.html
Well, here I am; again.
I am starting a new project, and from the title of this build it is obvious that it is not going to be an engine. I have been thinking of making this tool for a while as my results in free hand grinding of lathe tools is, to say the least, atrocious. Taking an advantage of a lull in my Corliss build, I ordered the kit last week from Hemingways. It arrived yesterday in less than a week.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20001.JPG)
Box was not damaged and when I tried to pick it up from the floor I was surprised how heavy it was. No wonder the delivery person did not look too happy. It weighs about 25kg!! Managed to get the box to the garage and opened the box to see what's inside. Everything inside was neatly packed.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20002.JPG)
There were two carton boxes, one containing the electric motor and the other one the rest of the electrical hardware and two bags of metric nuts and bolts. All the bar stock and the steel prefabricated frames were neatly bubble wrapped. There was also some paperwork included which consisted of
- 10 A3 sheets of technical drawings
- A set of construction notes
- A set of notes of how to use the finished tool.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20003.JPG)
I know that there was a write-up on the Model Engineers Workshop but I just could not find it or I do not have that particular issue but I managed to find on the internet another build write-up (http://www.jeffree.co.uk/Pages/worden/worden.htm) which I intend to use in conjunction with Hemingways construction notes.
I then opened the box for the electric motor to have a look at it, and that's when my heart sank. Motor is damaged!! On closer inspection it was determined that both motor mounts were broken.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20004.JPG)
The good thing is that both mounts can be easily replaced. So at 05:00pm I sent an email with the photo to Kirk at Hemingways. At 10:00pm received an email from Kirk saying that he will send me two new mounts. Thumbs up to Kirk.
Vince
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:o I had a broken foot with a motor I purchased >:( Luckily the supplier had a stock of spare feet it seem this happens all too often
Looking forward to seeing your build Vince. It is really nice having a cutter grinder at home ;D
Jo
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Jo, I got the same impression from Kirk's reply. It seems these motors don't travel well.
Vince
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I just found a couple of nice pictures of one of these cutter grinders:
(http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/45548/100_2663.jpg)
(http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/45548/100_2666.jpg)
Martin who built it thinks it is the best thing he ever built ;)
Jo
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Looks like a great project Vince. Sorry about the motor feet but it sounds as if their customer services has that sorted out already. Will be looking forward to your progress on this.
Bill
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Awesome Vince and it looks like a great project. I had look at it on there site but ended up buying one from Northern tools. This is the link to the grinder...http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200414732_200414732
I will be following you as you progress and should be an interesting project. By the way I have had good results dealing with Kirk at Hemingway and I did build quiet a few of there kits.
Don
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Thanks guys for looking in and keeping an eye out on me. I read somewhere that this kit can be done in three weekends. Something tells me this is not going to happen especially if I do things the hard way.
So, work started on the kit. It is recommended to debur all the pre-fabricated steel plates. Yes, they need it but I did not want to do them all at the same time. It was decided to only debur the part that I would be working on. Started on the base as recommended. Deburred that to remove all the rough and sharp surfaces. The base has three 8mm captive nuts in it. Tried to screw a bolt in them but no luck. So, all captive nuts were refreshed with an 8mm tap. Much better now. I guess the start threads were deformed a little when the nuts were pressed in.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20005.JPG)
Next operation was to fit the two stiffener bars between the top and bottom of the base. The bars provided were nearly exactly to size. Less than a mm longer than required. I could have easily left them like that but being me I wanted them exactly to size. So I lightly milled one side of the bar. This also removed the saw marks.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20006.JPG)
A trial fit was attempted but the stiffener bar would not slide easily between the top and bottom of the base. Two temporary jacks were devised to push the top and bottom apart so that the bar would easily slide in.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20007.JPG)
Next to mark, drill and tap the bars. Here I did not follow the instructions as I thought that I would not be able to mark the holes properly and also I could not be certain that when I drill the bars that the 5mm drill will not wander. So instead, I measured the locations of the pressed holes in the base from the front. The measurements seemed to be in mm. Just to confirm that my measurements were correct I asked Kirk if he had a drawing of the base with the locations of the pressed holes which he immediately obliged by sending me a drawing. As I thought, the dimensions of the drawing were in mm and I had measured correctly. The holes were marked on the bar and proceeded to start drilling. I only drilled half way through.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20008.JPG)
Bar was flipped around and was drilled from the other side. Next operation was to tap 6mm each hole, first from one side and then from the other. Trial fit and all the holes lined up and the stiffener bar bolted up.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20009.JPG)
Next to do the other one using the same method.
As an afterthought, it would have been easier to drill 6mm clearance holes and use a long bolt and nut instead of tapping. Unless I am missing something!
Vince
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Interesting project Vince,
The table is very similar to my Glendo low speed diamond sharpener; The Glendo just has a single bar on a pivot and not the fancy adjustable tool holder. I will be curious to see how it is made and put to use. I may want in design and build something like this for my machine.
Dave
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Interesting, had a long thinking session (and a few pints of ale) on deciding if to get this one for lathe tools. I have a quorn and it is a bit of a hassle.. I'm aming for something like what only is briefly mentioned in GHT's workshop manual and read somehwhere that the worden is loosely based on those ideas. Big thumbs up for posting this!
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Thanks for the kind comment on the photos of my Worden that you posted Jo!
Vince, it's a great tool and so quick to get up and running for grinding basic lathe tools etc. I've also got the accessory kit for the four facet drill grinding attachment but haven't got around to making it yet. I'm sure you'll be really pleased with yours once you've got it up and running.
Martin.
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Thanks Dave, Bjorn and Martin for your comments.
Martin, thanks for the photos. I may be asking you questions about it. I have a big question mark about the cam discs which tilt the table. I know that the middle one is fixed in one position because I have to file a flat on the rod for the grub screw. But what about the other two?? There is no mention of filing flats for their grub screws. It is really puzzling me. Maybe when I assemble it, it will make more sense.
I made some more progress on the tool. Finished the other stiffener bar and fitted in place.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20010.JPG)
Marked the excess on the unmilled side and milled it to the line. Also there is a nice space between the stiffeners to put in a drawer. Oh no not another wooden item.
Fitted three feet to the bottom of the base. These are just door stops that I bought locally. They are not part of the kit but it is recommended that they are fitted.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20011.JPG)
A couple of days ago, the replacement electric motor mounts arrived and I changed them.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20012.JPG)
As the motor was out of the box, I wired it to test it. I also cleaned up the motor plinth from the rough edges and gave it a trial fit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20013.JPG)
Vince
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Fix the middle one then twist the outer ones to contact the table and tighten up the grub screws , that's what I did , but in long term uses the grit in the slider caused me problems as did a bearing failure on the motor , so I built a Quorn :hammerbash:
Stuart
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Vince a nice project you are starting.
Will follow this build, very interesting.
Some years ago I got the complete set off drawings from the Bonelle grinder in metric.
It will take some time before I will build this grinder.
After the KIWI build I have made plans to build the Dion engine.
Have bought the drawings of this engine from Classic-motors who also sells the casting kits.
But as the KIWI I will try to cast the parts myself.
Tjark.
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Thanks Stuart for the explanation. Still have to figure out how to operate this thing when finished.
Tjark, good luck with the Kiwi. Who is going to start it first, yourself or Jo? :popcorn:
Vince
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Vince, i do not know at the moment.
Was not satisfied with the head castings.
It looks that the first one’s had shrinking tears so they would leak.
Had those troubles some time’s back when I casted heads for racing engines.
So I casted today two new ones and they look very good.
All the other parts are ready and I bought in China some black m4 hex flange nuts.
This for the head and cylinder, it looks better on this engine I think.
We will see who is first, Jo had some trouble with the Figiebel engine, but hope she get it running as the Kiwi engine.
Tjark.
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If I had to follow the sequence of the construction notes, I should have started on the working table. I need 4mm number stamps (I only have 2mm) which are on order and also I need to study a bit more the sliding mechanism beneath the table.
So I skipped that and did something else.
I did the two side plates clamp screws. Straight forward lathe turning with no special accuracy required. The only bit I made sure they are both the same is the 10mm collar which fits in the side plates 10mm slot. I used a fine diamond knurl on the knob. Knurling is a bit iffy when I do it so I did a test on a piece of scrap before.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20014.JPG)
Happy to say that both turned out fine.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20015.JPG)
With these clamp screws finished, I turned my attention to fitting the side plates. Cleaned up all the rough edges and took a while in cleaning up the slot to make it fit the 10mm collar of the clamp screw so that the sideplate can slide freely when the screw is loosened. Used a small Dremel grinding stone and then finished up with some draw filing.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20016.JPG)
Both side plates fitted with the clamp screws. Measured the distances between the sideplates at various positions and the largest discrepancy was found to be 0.3mm. Not bad. They seem to be parallel to each other.
Vince
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A good start :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: , I will be following along :wine1:
I keep looking at and thinking about cutter grinders, drill sharpeners, etc but haven't taken the plunge yet :headscratch:
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Hi Vince, following along with interest. I have to solve this tool grinding problem also. I am still not sure if your way, or the proposal from Don is my solution.
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Hi Roger and Achim
If this thing works well to grind lathe tools then I will be happy. It can also be used for sharpening drills and slitting saws but these are extra attachments. Also there is an additional option to make the table traverse sideways. I guess it could be used as a small surface grinder. There could be a problem with the grinding stone guard but it can always be cut to size or remove it totally if needed.
You can also use it to grind the bottom of endmills (but not the flutes).
As I have not used it yet these are just impressions I am getting from reading what other people had to say.
Vince
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Vince, you might get a better knurl if you can get the wheels diametrically opposite each other across the item being knurled, but that might be a bit of a stretch with that tool on that diameter.
Ian S C
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Vince, you might get a better knurl if you can get the wheels diametrically opposite each other across the item being knurled, but that might be a bit of a stretch with that tool on that diameter.
Ian S C
Yes a bigger "scissor" for that knob.:-) Would help immensely.
..lew...
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Thanks Ian and Lew for the comments. Yes I admit, it wasn't the ideal situation, but I couldn't open it further. I did not think that buying a larger tool was cost effective, so I tried opening the scissors as much as possible and then pushing the knurl into the material. I gave a decent knurl.
A little bit of progress. I did the table stops. Nothing special. I just had to be careful when boring that the stop would be a sliding fit on the ground shaft. So started by cutting a piece for both stops from the 1" material supplied. Faced both ends and drilled and bored the hole so that it would slide without any wobble on the 3/4" ground shaft that was also supplied.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20017.JPG)
Took a while and a lot of patience to get the hole bored to the correct size. I then parted off in the middle and cleaned it up.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20018.JPG)
Drilled and tapped for 5mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20019.JPG)
I should have stopped there but decided to do one of the brass screws. After finishing that off I decided to measure it again because it looked a bit long. I measured it to be 5mm too long. :cussing: Decided to stop there before I did more stupid things.
This morning I measured it again and it measured correctly. :facepalm: Must have been tired yesterday. At least the day started on a good note. I did the other one.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20020.JPG)
And the stops on the shaft.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20021.JPG)
Vince
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Yesterday whilst knurling at slow speed I could discern a thumping noise from the lathe. On investigation it was found that one of the belts was in really poor shape. So this morning went out to buy a new one. No more strange noises.
Did another three brass screws which are also required.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20022.JPG)
The piece on the right is what remains od the bar stock supplied.
Vince
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So barely enough for a mistake ::) Still following along :wine1:
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Roger, I guess the bar stock is just enough to make the items without any redo.
Next item will be a little more complicated than what I have done up till now. I will be working on the cam blanks.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20023.JPG)
I will not be following the instructions here as I think using a different method will be easier for me. I need to make a jig to hold all three blanks together. I was lucky to have a 65mm aluminium offcut which I will be using for the jig. First job was to clean it up.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20024.JPG)
The centre was marked whilst still in the lathe. It was then transferred to the milling machine where two 3mm tapped holes where made. Altough on the plans the holes are shown as 2" apart, in real fact, I found that they are actually 50mm apart.
The three blanks were bolted to the jig and the offset hole and centre were marked.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20025.JPG)
Back to the lathe and the diameter of the blanks reduced to 2.75".
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20026.JPG)
Back to the mill again and started drilling the offset hole.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20027.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20028.JPG)
This hole should be 7/8". Drilled up to 19mm and then continued with a boring head to 22mm. A little smaller than 7/8" but should not make a lot of difference as the collar which will fit in the hole will be machined to fit the hole.
Two 3mm through holes were also drilled to the side of this hole.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20029.JPG)
I was not planning of doing the following, but when I arrived to this stage I changed my mind. Although not required, the cams can be cut to provide clearance for an optional Feedscrew Traverse Kit. I do not know if I will be doing that but I thought that as everything is set up, might as well do it. So the line of the cut was marked off.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20030.JPG)
Using the angled point of a scriber, the jig with the blanks was aligned on the mill. Most probably I could have eyeballed it also.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20031.JPG)
Used a slitting saw to do the cut.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20032.JPG)
Out of the vice.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20033.JPG)
Blanks finished and cleaned up.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20034.JPG)
Next, I will be doing the collars for these cams. In the meantime, does anybody know the use of this optional Feedscrew Traverse?
Vince
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Hi Vince,
Coming along nicely. I made my Worden after getting rid of the Quorn that I made. I found the Quorn very awkward to use, particularly getting a smooth movement of the rocking arm when actually taking a cut. My rational with the Worden was that I would add the traversing screw to enable smooth movement when cutting. In practice the Worden table moves nice and smoothly with hand pressure alone and I have yet to make the traversing screw kit that I bought.
I see you have been having fun knurling. On my Worden I made the main table angle locking nut with the same fine knurl that I used for the other screws. I find this rather painful to use, it can get quite tight, and would recommend something more like a star wheel.
HTH,
Rod
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In the meantime, does anybody know the use of this optional Feedscrew Traverse?
I have it on mine, I find makes it easier to get a smooth traverse of the tool across the wheel - but I do have rather shaky hands...
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Thanks Rod and Bob for your comments. Bob welcome to the forum.
Ok, now it is making sense. The Feedscrew Traverse is used to move the table sideways instead of using your hand.
As both of you have the kit, could I ask if the kit comes with the feedscrew finished or do you have to thread it yourself? Also, is it a metric or imperial thread?
Again thank you for the information.
Vince
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Finished the cams, or should I call them eccentrics?
Started work on the collars. Marked the collars on the barstock and used a parting tool to mark the three of them. This barstock is used for this collar only (I think) so there is about 30mm spare.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20035.JPG)
Drilled and bored so that it will slip on a 5/8" shaft. Turned it to fit into the 22mm hole I did in the cam blank.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20036.JPG)
First one finished.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20037.JPG)
Did the other two and then brought the length of all three to the same size. I left the length a little longer than the plans. Should not make any difference. Used the cam blank as a template for the 3mm tapped holes in the collar.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20038.JPG)
The three of them finished with a 5mm tapped hole on the side for a grub screw.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20039.JPG)
The collar bolted on the cam.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20040.JPG)
The cams fitted to the shaft.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20041.JPG)
Vince
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As both of you have the kit, could I ask if the kit comes with the feedscrew finished or do you have to thread it yourself? Also, is it a metric or imperial thread?
Mine was bought 10 years ago. At that time the kit included a length of M10 * 1.5 pitch threaded rod. You could ring Hemingway and ask them, I always found them very useful.
Incidentally, have you seen this ? http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/living-with-the-worden/5011 (http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/living-with-the-worden/5011)
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Thanks Bob for the info
Incidentally, have you seen this ? http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/living-with-the-worden/5011
No, I haven't seen it. Thanks
Vince
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Cool Vince, I presume the cam is to tilt the table. Does the knob that tilts it have degree markings so you know what angle you tilt it to? Nice work bud and still following you.
Don
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Yes Don, the cams are for tilting the table. There is a method of scribing the knob but I have not understood it yet. Most probably I will forget the markings and use an electronic angle indicator to set the table tilt. I will decide when I get to that stage.
Vince
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On to something simple. Or so I thought.
Made some washers. Marked them, and drilled them.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20042.JPG)
Made a countersink as these are going to take countersunk bolts.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20043.JPG)
And then chamfered them.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20044.JPG)
And finally parted them. Managed to finish them after a couple of dig-ins :cussing: and a lot of hand filing the back of the washers. Also made a couple of plain washers of a different diameter. These last two will be taking 6mm bolts through them but the plans where showing a 1/4" hole in these washers. I guess when they were changing the plans to metric threads they forgot this.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20045.JPG)
Vince
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Yes Don, the cams are for tilting the table. There is a method of scribing the knob but I have not understood it yet. Most probably I will forget the markings and use an electronic angle indicator to set the table tilt.
I put a pointer on the knob and scribed the angle markings on the side-plate.
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Thanks Bob. That is a good idea.
Today I spent some time reading and rereading slowly the instructions of where and how to make the graduations. I think I got it now.
Vince
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Another two knobs made. These go on the ends of the same shaft that carries the cams for tilting the table.
Work on the knob which should take the tilt graduations.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20046.JPG)
Reaming 8mm same knob.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20047.JPG)
Work on the other knob which locks the table. Plans show it should be threaded 3/8" x 26 tpi. I made it 10 x 1mm which should be close enough.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20048.JPG)
Both knobs finished.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20049.JPG)
In retrospect, if I had to redo these items again I would do them slightly different. The large knob looks a bit too "chunky", so it can afford to be a little smaller in diameter. Also, I would not make the holes in both of them as through holes but blind holes. I think they would look better.
Still have not received the 4mm number stamps and starting to get worried. They were dispatched on the 19th November. I think I will wait a couple of more days and then advise the seller.
Vince
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Help please!!
BIG BOO-BOO day today!!
So today I decided to start work on the four shafts by finishing off one side of each shaft. There are three 5/8" shafts (one longer than the other two) and a 3/4" shaft. Started on the camshaft which needed turning on one side. I was nearly finished with it. Was just doing some clean up. All of a sudden I got that sinking feeling. I suddenly dawned on me the reason why one of the 5/8" shafts was longer than the others. Did I use the long shaft for the camshaft? Looked behind me and there was the longer shaft sitting on the table. :Mad: :cussing: :hammerbash:
Well after a while, I calmed down. How can I fix this? The shaft I was working on is scrap. I can't use it to replace one of the other one's. I can't find imperial size barstock here. First solution was to get another shaft from Kirk. Then I realized that 5/8" is close to 16mm. Do I have one in my stash? Closest I found was 15mm, but was not happy with that. So tomorrow I will see if I can find 16mm BMS from my usual supplier.
All the steel barstock in the kit is Free Cutting Mild Steel. Is BMS the same as FCMS??
Vince
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Freecutting does not contain lead, EN1A (230M07) would be a free cutting steel without lead, EN1Apb (230M07pb)is even easier to cut and does contain lead.
If you can get the 230M07 or 070M20 or equivalent with a bright finish they will be fine
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Thanks Jo and Jason for your replies.
This morning, whilst driving to my usual metal supplier, I was still angry at myself for being so stupid yesterday. :hammerbash: Note to any prospective Worden builder: the cam shaft is the longer 5/8" shaft.
At least they had the 16mm BMS I needed. Back home I measured them and the 5/8" shaft was measured as 15.80mm and the 16mm shaft was measured as 15.90mm. Hardly noticeable when put side by side.
Today finished one side of all four shafts.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20050.JPG)
Next, some measuring required between the side plates.
Vince
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Vince,
Don't beat yourself up - most of us will have made far bigger Lulu's than that!
Enjoying following your build,
Simon
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Simon's right Vince, we all get those days and you still seem to be making good progress.
Don
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No bigee Vince, now you just some "pre-turned" stock available for the next project. On filing and cleaning up the cut off side of your washers; next time secure them to a "arbor " with a touch of "SuperGlue", I call it a glue chuck. They will hold fine for facing cuts and just a bit of heat will break them free. :cheers:
Cletus
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Still following your progress here as well Vince. Nice looking tool!
Bill
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Thanks Simon, Don, Cletus and Bill for your friendly comments.
Managed to finish all the shafts and fitted them to the side plates. First thing I did, as per instructions, I put a piece of paper between the side plates and the side of the base. As the side plates can be slid forward and backward, the paper will provide a clearance for the next operation.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20051.JPG)
Here, I did not follow the instructions of how to mark the shafts to length. Instead I took some measurements at various points between the side plates and decided to start with a length of 286.80mm. The two lower 5/8" spacer shafts were done first. Trial fit and all OK. Next the 3/4" ground shaft on which the table slides sideways was done also. Trail fit and all works nicely and it slides smoothly.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20052.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20053.JPG)
Turned the un-machined end of the cam shaft and tapped it 10x1mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20054.JPG)
Milled a flat for the centre cam as per drawing and fitted all three cams on the shaft. Bolted everything back in place.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20055.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20056.JPG)
Still slides backwards and forward well. If I want I can afford to reduce the length of all the shafts by 0.1mm but I will leave then as is for now.
Vince
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Hi Vince, it's comming together nicely.
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Thanks Achim. Up till now it has been an enjoyable build. No major problems.
Started work on the cast iron sliding block of the worktable. Again, I am not following the paper instructions as they are a bit vague. I am also not following the internet instructions as I found it strange to bore the hole and then bring the cast iron block to size. Still, the internet instructions have some things to watch out for which I am going to heed.
So started first by bringing the block to size. I am using the lathe and the 4 jaw chuck to quickly remove the material.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20057.JPG)
Left slightly oversize and continued on the mill and the flycutter to true it up.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20058.JPG)
And finally, an 8mm long series carbide endmill for the sides.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20059.JPG)
I still have about 3.5mm to remove from the sides. Have not decided yet if to continue slowly on the mill or transfer it to the lathe. I think I will sleep on it.
Vince
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You might try plunge cutting most of that 3.5 mm off and then finish off with the side?
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I put together a Worden, with radius jig, drill sharpening jig, and a diamond wheel from Arc Eurotrade in the UK.
Made a ER-25 holder for it; works very nicely.
The screw feed is already threaded (as has been mentioned) and M10 thread sounds about right. I used those handles that you pull out to adjust (seen on many newer machine tools - whatever they are called) for holding the table to the base, easy to unscrew, and then tighten.
Good luck with your build - I don't use it all the time, but when I do, I'm GLAD that I have this tool!
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That's a good size chunk of metal there Vince. Still with you buddy and looking good.
Don
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Thanks Andy, Alex and Don for the comments.
Well I slept on it and managed to finish the cast iron sliding block. I put the block in the 4 jaw chuck and drilled and bored until it would slide smoothly on the 3/4" ground shaft.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20060.JPG)
I then faced off the extra material with the same setup.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20061.JPG)
Trial fit on the shaft. Perfect.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20062.JPG)
I then drilled and tapped various holes around the block. I even made the two bottom ones which are meant for the traversing kit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20063.JPG)
Next, I milled off the rebate as per plans. Instead of using a 1/2" endmill, I used a 13mm one. Should not make a lot of difference as this rebate is to give clearance for another item.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20064.JPG)
And finally, using that adjustable angle thingy, I milled one of the edges of the block. This is also to provide clearance for the traverse kit if I ever do it.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20065.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20066.JPG)
Vince
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I need some advice please.
On some of the drawings, there is a note that typically bar stock is supplied as BMS, but for export orders, aluminium is occasionally substituted to keep the kit weight under 25kg.
Up till now I have been lucky and everything I used up till now was in steel, but I see in the box that there are two pieces of 2" aluminium. They will be used for the grinding wheel hub and the wheel clamping washer.
I suppose that aluminium is adequate for this application, but I am thinking of getting some 50mm BMS instead.
What do you think? Should I do the two items in aluminium or BMS?
Vince
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I'd be happy to do the grinding wheel hub and spacer in aluminium
Regards
B
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Vince, my hub and clamp washer are aluminium and do their job admirably! :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Bjorn and steammachine for your comments. Just to show my level of inexperience. :paranoia:
Started work on the work table and as luck would have it the number stamps finally arrived today. I haven't deburred it yet. Started off by opening up the four 3mm holes to 4mm and countersinking them.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20067.JPG)
I made sure that I countersink enough so that the head of the bolt will remain under the level of the table.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20068.JPG)
The table bolted up to the cast iron sliding block. The brass screw is the locking screw.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20069.JPG)
Table in position. Starting to take shape.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20070.JPG)
Vince
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Starting to look like a cutter grinder Vince. Your making good progress and it's looking very nice. Will you have to make a bunch of tools to go with or does it come with any kits?
Don
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So the table comes pre-graduated but not stamped?
Still following your progress,
Simon.
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Yes Don. The kit comes with a toolholder which is fixed to the table and as far as I can see, it will accept HSS tool blanks and also endmills and slot drills up to a maximum shank diameter of 1/2". There are also optional tools which I can add at a later stage.
Simon, the table comes with the graduations but no numbering which I have to add myself. Maybe, the place where they make the table does not have the facility to add the numbers. Or, they do not do them to keep the cost down. Personally, if I had the option, I would prefer to pay extra and get the numbers done professionally.
Vince
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Vince,
Make sure you practice on some scrap with those stamps as they will make or break how good the table looks ;)
Simon.
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As Baldrick used to say; "I have a cunning plan."
I intend to do a jig for the stamps to try and get them uniformly done. Keeping all my fingers crossed.
Vince
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Vince I am with Simon on this, those cheap Chinese stamps are not good quality. If you look close you will see that the number is not centered on most of them. Even with a jig you can still go wrong, ask me how I know.
Don
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As Baldrick used to say; "I have a cunning plan."
:lolb:
Loved the show.
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Do you really need to take the risk of stamping the table it reasonably flat now what's it going to be like after
Most angles you will use are less that 10 it's easy to count them , or use them as a guide and set it with a proper protractor
While you have it in bits why not make up some felt wipers for the slide you have just made to help keep out the grit if it get in you will not get it out ,just a felt washer with a brass/steel washer to hold it in place , but a rub over with a DRY rag after use would help as well
Just my 2 cents
Stuart
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What do you think? Should I do the two items in aluminium or BMS?
Mine were BMS, but I'd think aluminium would be just as good.
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Thanks Don, Zee, Stuart and Bob for having a look and your comments.
I managed to punch the numbers with the aid of a jig.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20071.JPG)
As Don said, the numbers are not centred in the middle of the die. They are not perfect but better than nothing. I still think it would be a good idea to have the numbers done at the factory.
I deburred the table. I only lightly deburred the semi-circular slot in the table as I do not know if it needs to be opened up further until I do the tool holder. Whilst cleaning up the table, I remembered of a slight defect in the table.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20072.JPG)
The triangular part below the table is spot welded to the table. On one side it is flush with the table but on the other side it is slightly offset. Kirk assures me that it will not effect the proper operation of the tool.
I also cleaned up the spot welding burns on the top of the table. Most probably at a later stage I will sand the table with a power sander.
I also measured the limits of the tilt of the table. I can tilt the table from -1.3 deg to 30.5 deg. According to some notes on the drawings it mentions the limits as -2 deg to 25 deg. I can get it to -2 deg if I file a bit more the curved profile of the side plates, but is it worth it? Do I need it to go down to -2 deg? What do you think?
Vince
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I can not imagine what a minus tilt would be useful for, but then I have never used anything else than a Harrold Hall simle grinding rest or a quorn.
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Bjorn, I have not decided what to do yet. This will be my first experience with tool grinders so I do not know also where a minus tilt would be required. The only situation I can think of is when dressing the wheel with a diamond dresser.
Started work on the wheel hub and clamp which I am going to do with the supplied aluminium blanks. There isn't a lot of extra bar stock available so I have to be extra careful. Started by facing both blanks by taking off as little as possible. Ended with only 3mm extra. Not a lot.
I then made an 11mm plug gauge for the hole in the hub as per instructions. This is when I found out that my digital micrometre was dead. Changed the battery but no joy. I can't remember if it was like this when I left for the UK eight months ago, or it just happened. Not a good start of the day. So I had to relearn how to use the Vernier scale.
I then put the clamping washer in the chuck and drilled and reamed a 5mm hole. Later on this will be tapped 6mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20073.JPG)
Put the hub in the lathe and drilled and tapped 4mm and then made a 2.5mm spigot of the same diameter as the hole I just made in the washer.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20074.JPG)
Bolted the washer to the hub and transferred it to the mill. After locating the hub under the spindle with a coaxial indicator
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20075.JPG)
I proceeded to drill three holes using the DRO Bolt Function through both the washer and the hub. Washer removed and the three holes tapped 5mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20076.JPG)
That's where I stopped today. I need to bore the hub 11mm for the motor shaft but I have not decided whether to do it on the mill with a boring head or on the lathe with a boring tool.
Vince
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HELP PLEASE!! :thinking:
Today I continued work on the hub. Decided to do it on the lathe as I can do all the operations in one setup and so keep everything concentric. I even managed to squeeze in the boring bar to open up the hole from 10mm to 11mm. :whoohoo:
And this is how it looks up till now.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20077.JPG)
I have done it exactly as per plans. As you can see below the plans call for a minimum clearance (when the grinding wheel is installed) of 1/32" (about 0.8mm) between the hub and the clamping washer.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20078.JPG)
As you can see from the following photo, there is more clearance than that, infact there is 3.7mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20079.JPG)
English is not my native language and I have been known to misread drawings, so I am asking just to make sure I am understanding it properly. As I understand it the clearance could be more than that 1/32". It should not be less than that. Am I correct?
If I am correct than that 3.7mm clearance is good. But is it too much? Should I reduce it a bit more?
Thanking you in anticipation for all your assistance ( after pulling yourself up from the floor laughing).
Vince
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Your good
Wheels come in different thicknesses
The DWG says min clearance that's to makes sure it clamps the wheel
Stuart
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Thank you very much Stuart. You put my mind at rest. Now I can remove it from the chuck.
Vince
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Continued to finish off the hub and clamping washer and nearly finished them off when I encountered another minor problem. :Mad: I need to tap two 5mm holes at the back of the hub. It needs a 20mm thread but my taps are only about 15mm. Quick search on Amazon and I think I found taps giving a longer thread. Asked my daughter who is in London to order them for me and bring them with her next week.
So for now I will put these aside until the taps come and see what I get.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20080.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20081.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20082.JPG)
Vince
p.s.: The clamping washer should be 8mm thick. As it is counterbored 5mm deep for the bolts, there would only be 3mm of material under the bolt head. As it is made out of aluminium (and me being a bit paranoid), I made the washer 9mm thick instead of 8mm.
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Are the M5 by 20mm holes for grub screw 37 and it's friend? You could always open out the first 5 or 6 mm of the hole to clear your existing taps. Any more that 5mm of thread is doing nothing.
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Thanks Roger for that suggestion. I am keeping that as a last resort because my 5mm taps have a shank of 6mm. The ones I am getting are cheap, have a thread length of 25mm and a shank of 5mm.
Vince
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Looking great Vince and glad to see you overcome those minor set backs bud. ............ :cheers:
Don
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All alone at home for the moment as my wife is in London visiting my youngest daughter. As such did not have much time to play around as I have to babysit the cats.
Still managed to do some things. I reamed the 6mm hole in the table and I also managed to get the -2deg tilt of the table. Had to file/grind the curved part of the side plates to make the table go a bit lower.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20083.JPG)
Started work on the toolholder. Started with the sliding base. Basically a base with two guide bars on the sides with lots of holes in it.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20084.JPG)
I located all the holes by measurements from the plans. I nearly missed it but was lucky I noticed it before drilling. The six counterbored 5mm holes in the guides are a bit larger than usual for a 5mm bolt. In fact the through hole is 5.5mm and the counterbore is 9.5mm. I guess they are larger than usual to give some leeway in adjusting the guides. What I found strange is that there is another 5mm through hole through both guides and the base which is not that wide. I drilled it 5.2mm as per plan and I can always open it up if required later on. Also I found a minor mistake in the location of this particular hole. On the plans it is saying 2.75" from the front of the base of the toolholder. When I calculated it I found that it should be 2.74". Kirk has been advised and he said that the plans have been amended.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20085.JPG)
Vince
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Haven't checked in in a few days Vince, you are really coming along on this project. It looks great too!!
Bill
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Hi Bill. Thanks for having a look.
Did the round profile to the sliding base. This time followed the instructions that came with the kit using the faceplate. Located the part using a 6mm dowel.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20086.JPG)
And put some more clamps, just to be sure.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20087.JPG)
Reminded me of the Corliss flywheel. Nearly to the limit. Initial used an HSS tool (because of the interrupted cut) and the lowest speed (160 RPM) but the toolbit was having a hard time and ended up just rubbing instead of cutting. Eventually changed to the carbide insert tool. What a difference and it did not break.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20088.JPG)
Then I did the 15 deg. chamfer.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20089.JPG)
The finish was not great so did an experiment. :facepalm: Clamped the Dremel to the toolpost and using a grinding wheel ground the chamfered profile. I turned the faceplate by hand during this process. Much better now.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20090.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20091.JPG)
Vince
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Nice work Vince and I see your numbering came out great also. Awesome bud!
Don
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You guys that do that sort of thing on a lathe faceplate just impress me. I'd never think of trying that. A vert. mill and rotary table is the
only way I'd even begin to think of doing that. :-)
...lew...
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Still following along although I must admit to not understanding quite a bit.
I'm hoping that we'll see some demonstrations once done.
My first confusion was 'cutter grinder'. Which to my ears sounded like a tool that did two things...cut and grind.
A quick (and short) search seems to say a 'a tool that grinds cutters'.
Right?
Yeah...that's right. Still a newbie.
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My first confusion was 'cutter grinder'. Which to my ears sounded like a tool that did two things...cut and grind.
A quick (and short) search seems to say a 'a tool that grinds cutters'.
If you get it right you get a sharp cutter but I have known people put the relief cutting angles on in reverse :LittleDevil:. You soon realise what you have done if you try cutting rubbing with one ::)
Jo
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Thanks guys for having a look.
My daughter brought me the long 5mm tap but as I still had the faceplate installed and the topslide still set at 15 deg. I thought I would do another operation on the sliding tool holder base. I need to mark three fiducial lines on the chamfered part. These are at 10 deg., 0 deg. and -10 deg. I used a different method than as described in the build instructions. I got them marked out from the work table which has all the graduations.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20092.JPG)
Clamped it again to the faceplate and using a small HSS boring bar held in an unconventional way I engraved the three lines. It was a bit of a tight squeeze but managed to do the three of them.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20093.JPG)
And this is how it looks.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20094.JPG)
Now I can remove, oil and store the faceplate for another time.
Vince
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Had a little spare time in the afternoon and finished off the grinding wheel hub. I left it last time because I needed a longer 5mm tap. I got it a couple of days ago. You can see the difference between the taps I had (left) with the longer taps (right).
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20095.JPG)
They are not high quality and I suspect they are carbon steel and not HSS; but they did the job. To avoid getting the dividing head out I did some marking.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20096.JPG)
Then using a straight edge to set it up in the vice.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20097.JPG)
I had to reduce the length of the supplied grub screws and one of them was profiled to fit in the 4mm keyway on the electric motor shaft.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20098.JPG)
Wired up the motor to check if there was any wobble. Fortunately none. I can call this part finished also.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20099.JPG)
Vince
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Looking good Vince!
I'm still sitting here quietly following your progress.
Dave
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Hi Vince, I am following along quietly also.
Knowing that my brand new Chinese clone of the Deckel SO stands unpacked in the car port since a couple of days.
It will be a challange to learn how to use it correctly.
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Thanks Dave and Achim.
Deckel SO stands unpacked in the car port since a couple of days
How did you manage to do that. I would not be able to resist to wait so long to play with a new toy.
Vince
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Hi Vince, I have to reorganize my mini work shop under the roof again. My assembly desk will be the place to house the cutter grinder in the near future. So I need a new place for assembling. This place is located outside the shop now, but the old big office desk there has to be redesigned into a CAD/CAM working place with normal office function and the new assembling place for model engines. I am the half way through.
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Happy Christmas to all. :cheers: :wine1:
I did a couple of simple things. The screw and special nut that lock the toolholder at a particular angle on the table.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20100.JPG)
Nothing special here except maybe the dowel. The kit comes with a length of 1/8" material to be used for various dowels. I had thought of replacing it with 3mm material but I forgot to get some and now everybody is closed. So I had to use the 1/8" material. Managed to find a 3.1mm drill (was very lucky to have one) to drill the hole. With some sand paper reduced a little the diameter of the dowel and used a press fit instead of the Loctite that was called for.
Trial fit on the table.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20101.JPG)
Close up of the special nut in position.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20102.JPG)
The reason why there is that rebate in the sliding cast iron block.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20103.JPG)
Vince
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Another couple of simple items before I start on the difficult ones (at least in my eyes).
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20104.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20105.JPG)
This will lock the toolholder to the sliding base.
Vince
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Started my kit on Xmas Eve, so shall be following your thread closely
Replacement motor feet also quickly provided by Kirk. Great service!
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It's looking great Vince - still following your progress,
Simon.
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This is coming together very nicely!
I have heard that in use theese grinders are a bit annoying because of the cooling air from the motor is blown directly towards the operator together with the grinding dust. Is it possible to put some kind of air deflector or shield between the motor and grinding wheel?
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All your pieces have been beautiful done so far Vince. Nice work bud and still following you........... :praise2:
Don
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I've been following this thread and have noticed the amount of times the motor arrives with broken feet.
Could someone ( a customer obviously) suggest to them to take the damn feet off and pack them separately.
Just a thought.
Roy.
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Thank you Synergyn9, Simon, Bjorn, Don and Roy for your thoughts and comments.
Synergyn 9 welcome to the forum. I am sorry to hear that your motor feet arrived broken like mine but as you said Kirk was very quick to replace them. I hope you enjoy the build as much as I am and do not do what I did. Watch out for those shaft lengths.
Could someone ( a customer obviously) suggest to them to take the damn feet off and pack them separately.
Roy that is a great idea. Never thought about it. I know the electric motor comes in a carton box still factory sealed. There is a possibility, that with the feet removed, the motor would be less stable in its box and hence something else can get damaged.
I have heard that in use these grinders are a bit annoying because of the cooling air from the motor is blown directly towards the operator together with the grinding dust. Is it possible to put some kind of air deflector or shield between the motor and grinding wheel?
Bjorn, when I ran the motor to test the grinding wheel hub, I could feel the cooling air on my face and it crossed my mind to do something about it. The face of the motor has a flange and four mounting holes which could be used to fit a shield.
Vince
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Time for a question.
There is a feed screw and feed nut which is used to move the toolholder forward or backwards. It uses a thread of 1/4" and 40TPI. Obviously, I do not have it as everything I have is in metric. 40TPI converted to metric is equivalent to 0.635mm pitch. A 6mm fine thread has a pitch of 0.75mm. I was thinking of doing this feed screw and nut using this 6mm fine thread. The dial for the feed screw has 25 graduations. I was thinking of leaving the same dial and graduations and in that case each graduation would be equivalent to 0.03mm.
What do you think? Does it make sense or should I get the imperial tap and die from the UK?
Vince
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Go with what you have got Vince: You need a fine feed for advancing to grind a little more off not an accurate measurement ;).
Jo
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I'd go for something metric in your case. 0,5mm pitch if possible or 1,0 mm pitch with 50 graduations. 0,02mm per graduation does make sense. I have a 0,01mm graduation on the longidudinal feed of my quorn (M8x1,0 thread) but I could just as well had 50 lines on the knob..
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Thanks for the replies Jo and Bjorn.
Food for thought. I could use the 6mm course thread, which has a pitch of 1mm, and use 50 graduations. I do not know how the 50 graduations will look. I have to think about it.
Vince
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You need as fine a feed for the tool as you can get, don't worry about the graduations that just shows how much of a "little bit" you have advanced the tool. The actual measurement does not matter ;).
Jo
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Did some more work on the toolholder. I am working on two parts which use the same 1" square bar stock. I basically followed the instructions here.
Trued the end faces of the bar stock on the mill and marked the centre point of the faces. Put in the lathe using a 4 jaw chuck and centred. Then using a 1/4" shim, displaced it to one side.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20106.JPG)
This was done to cut the round profile on one side.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20107.JPG)
After that was done, and with the same setup, cut the 45deg. chamfer also.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20108.JPG)
Still using the same setting, a fiducial line was engraved in the centre of the chamfer. I used the same method as I did previously.
Next, the bar stock was centred again and a 10mm hole was drilled and reamed. I used 10mm instead of the 3/8" as specified in the plans. This part can now be parted off. I started the procedure but was getting horrible visions of a dig in and loosing the location of the centre. So, I patiently used a hacksaw instead whilst it was still in the 4 jaw chuck. First part finished but still needs clean up on the mill.
Faced off the excess material and continued drilling the hole through the rest of the material. The plans say it should be bored to 5/8" but I thought that for me 16mm makes more sense. Used an endmill which had a shank of 16mm as a plug gauge.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20109.JPG)
The endmill is a very nice slip fit in the bore, but the 16mm BMS I have is a bit loose. I do not know if I can source 16mm ground bar stock here. I will give it a try. I can also try 16mm silver steel which I think is closer to 16mm than the BMS. If this does not work out I will try to get it from the UK.
I have seen people who have made the Worden, use a straight shank collet holder instead of the individual tool holders. I will still do the individual tool holders but keeping my options open for a 16mm straight shank collet holder.
Vince
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Round BMS bar is almost invariably undersize. In my experience usually .002", but I have known more. Stainless Steel is mostly closer to nominal as is Silver Steel. I have some 1/2" Precision Ground M.S. which mikes at about .0005" under. PGMS is a stock item here.
Dave
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Thought I would go and visit my usual metal supplier. Asked if they had Precision Ground Mild Steel. All I got was a blank stare (not surprised) and after a while he said "What's that?" I told him what it was and he said "we have BMS if you want".
I then asked for 16mm silver steel which at least they had.
Came back to try it out. Slips in nicely just like the end mill.
Vince
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I get mine from Live Steam Models, 'cos they're only 10 mins. away.
Snip from their catalogue. :
Dave
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Thanks Dave for the info.
Really envy you guys over there. You can find anything.
For a piece (1 foot) of 16mm silver steel I paid 9.50 euros.
Vince
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Well, I managed to finish off those two parts. I think that was the worst part (at least for me) of the build. The rest should now be easy (famous last words!).
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20110.JPG)
And a trial fit on the sliding base.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20111.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20112.JPG)
Vince
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Thanks Dave for the info.
Really envy you guys over there. You can find anything.
For a piece (1 foot) of 16mm silver steel I paid 9.50 euros.
Vince
Vince
That's a very good price for silver steel in the UK its £10 inc VAT for 13 inches ( that's the correct length for it )
Don't confuse pgms and silver steel two different animals
Grinder looks good
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart
That's a very good price for silver steel in the UK its £10 inc VAT for 13 inches
At least I can console myself that I am not being ripped off.
Today we had a hiccup. Started work on the other parts which go between the last two parts that I made. Started on a part which uses a 22mm bar stock. So I kept the 4 jaw chuck as I can push the material further in and thus reduce the overhang out of the chuck. Turned the outside diameter as per drawings and then started to drill the hole through it. I am going to do it 9mm reamed, but when I went to look for it I could not find it. Most probably I never had it. :hammerbash:
So now I need to source this reamer and most probably from abroad. Also I have left the part in the chuck not to disturb it. In the meantime, let me see if I can do something else involving the milling machine.
Vince
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Now that's looking great Vince and still with you bud.
Don
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Thanks Don for following along.
This morning I ordered the 9mm machine reamer from Germany via e-bay. I guess due to the holidays it's estimated to arrive on the 11th January. So this got me thinking. :thinking: Can I open up the hole to 10mm? Studied the plans and I cannot find a reason why I can't do it. So I opened up the hole to 10mm reamed. At least I can continue with lathe work. Parted the part off.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20113.JPG)
Still need to face it to length but I will do that when I have the 3 jaw chuck installed.
Vince
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Started work on the graduated sleeve. As it has to be done from the same 7/8" material, it was easy to locate it in the 4 jaw chuck.
First did some knurling and then made the through hole. I made it 15mm diameter and finished it off with a 15mm slot drill as I did not have that reamer.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20114.JPG)
I then opened up the hole with a boring tool to create the shoulder for the spring steel leaf. The plan says 1/8" but it was a good thing to actually measure the width of the spring steel as it was a little wider.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20115.JPG)
Then turned it as required.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20116.JPG)
There is now a need to take the dividing head out to do the graduations.
Vince
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There is now a need to take the dividing head out to do the graduations.
Vince
Ah! Fun and games, fun and games!
-
After turning, did you do anything along the knurl edges or leave them alone? Filed or cut?
-
Carl
The shoulders of the knurl were cut at an angle and not at 90 deg. Not very visible in the photo.
Vince
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Ah! Fun and games, fun and games!
It's either the dividing head or the rotary table. Unfortunately I cannot do any indexing on the lathe.
Vince
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Picked up the courage to take the dividing head out and install it on the milling table. I use it so rarely that I had to read the instructions of how to set it up to give me 25 divisions. Eventually got it figured out but just to make sure I gave it a trial run on a piece of aluminium.
Doing the real thing.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20117.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20118.JPG)
Thimble finished and graduations cleaned up. Still need to face it to bring it to length.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20119.JPG)
And as a Xmas present to the dividing head for being so co-operative, I gave it a new home. A wooden box I found a couple of months ago to replace the original oily carton box which was falling apart.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20120.JPG)
A prosperous new year to all.
Vince
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Looks good Vince and nice find on the box, it looks to be a well made one.
Don
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Thanks Don. I think that box originally contained wine bottles.
Vince
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Thimble looks great.
As for the (wine) box...
Best to get a full one, then properly empty it, and then re-use it. ;D
-
Hi Vince, I like the dividing head. I am jealous.
-
Great progress Vince!
I'm still quietly following along here.
Dave
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Thanks Carl, Achim and Dave for following along.
This morning installed the 3 jaw chuck in the lathe and finished up the last two parts. I also did a thick washer. I still need to drill and tap for some grub screws but I will do them when I install the vice on the milling table.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20121.JPG)
Also started work on the leadscrew.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20122.JPG)
Vince
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Still following with interest and thinking about some form of cutter grinder (along with a power hacksaw/band saw etc etc :) )
-
Roger, I guess it is a never ending list.
Finished the leadscrew today. Continued from yesterday by doing the next step (diameter).
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20123.JPG)
Polished to fit the parts that go on this step.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20124.JPG)
And then the next step. Again polished to fit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20125.JPG)
Made sure that when that bearing block is pushed up to the shoulder, the graduated thimble would still be able to turn.
Next the thread (6 x 0.75mm) was cut with a die and the knob knurled.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20126.JPG)
Let's call this part finished.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20127.JPG)
Vince
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I like your knurling Vince, very nice results. Still with you buddy and it's looking great.
:drinking-41:
Don
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Thanks Don. I have never done so much knurling before but now I seem to be getting the hang of it. You will see the difference between the last one that I did today and the one I did at the beginning of this project.
Vince
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I have also done a lot of knurling for the last couple of days, cutting paste seems to make a lot of difference.
Holt
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Each of those turned out great Vince. I agree the knurling looks wonderful too!
Bill
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Thanks gents. I guess practice makes perfect.
Did the special nut with a 6 x 0.75mm thread.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20128.JPG)
Which fits into this. Looking at it, it would have been easy to make it from a one piece construction. I wonder why? Maybe it needs to be a two piece part for some attachment.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20129.JPG)
Which then fits into the sliding block.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20130.JPG)
Tapped for grub screws and milled flats and then the whole caboodle assembled.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20131.JPG)
It is a bit stiff when screwed all the way in so started a bit of fettling and fitting to loosen it up when screwed in at the back.
-
:ThumbsUp: Production quality.
-
Looking great Vince!
Have you got a stack of tools ready for sharpening?
Simon.
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That looks so good. Hugh.
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Looking fab Vince, I'm about 2-3 weeks behind you on mine and your posts are helping enormously
Just wish I could get my knurling tool to produce knurl like that, think it is time for a new one
-
Thanks guys for the comments.
:ThumbsUp: Production quality.
But for sure not production time. I find that everything takes ages to do.
Have you got a stack of tools ready for sharpening?
Yes Simon. I've got a bunch of end mills that could do with a lick on the grinder. Also a bunch of drills, but I have to do the drill sharpening attachment for that. But primarily I want to make some decent HSS lathe tools.
I'm about 2-3 weeks behind you
Don't be surprised if you finish it before me. Regarding knurling, I liberally use oil and before starting clean the knurls. I add pressure on the knurls gradually whilst it is turning. Also, it might seem strange, but I noticed that the sound from the knurls change when it's nearly finished.
Vince
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Finished fettling and brought the stiffness to an acceptable level.
Fitted also the spring steel to the thimble. The drawings say to start with a 1/2" length and adjust as necessary. I left it with 1/2".
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20132.JPG)
I anticipate that progress will slow down now that I can continue work on the Corliss. We'll see how it goes. Never had two projects running at the same time.
Vince
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A little more progress.
Started work on the lathe tool toolholder. Cleaned up the faces of the steel bar stock and brought it to size. I need to mill a 13mm (1/2" on the plans) slot in three of the four faces. Marked the slots and thought that this is going to give my X3 a hard time. Then I had an idea. How about try to remove some of the waste by drilling. So I drilled some 11.5mm holes.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20133.JPG)
Started rough milling with a well used 12mm end mill and then changed to a less used 12mm end mill to bring it to size.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20134.JPG)
When I did the side slots, before bringing it to size, I blued part of the already made slot to see when I start touching it.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20135.JPG)
All three slots finished and a couple of end mills which will need sharpening. I wonder if there was an easier way of doing these slots.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20136.JPG)
Next I did the 13mm (1/2" on drawings) hole at the back of the block. I drilled up to 12.5mm and then used a 13mm endmill to give me a relatively flat bottom.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20137.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20138.JPG)
All that remains to this part is to tap five 5mm holes for the retaining bolts.
Vince
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You can't beat a drill for removing material. Even "chain drilling" for a slot goes so much faster than any other method.
...lew...
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Thanks Lew. Chain drilling could have been another option.
This morning drilled and tapped the required holes and this part of the toolholder is complete.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20139.JPG)
Vince
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Hi Vince
For roughing deep bigger slots or deep steps in most metals ripper cutters are far faster than standard endmillls and save a lot of wear and tear on your nice sharp cutters , i usually use 10 and 12mm ripper cutters for all my roughing out operations and just leave around 0.5mm per surface for finishing.
regards Geoff
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Thanks Geoff for the heads up on ripper cutters. I have seen other people use them but I never had one. I should invest in one and give it a try.
Vince
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This project is really coming together Vince. I seems like a tool that will get loots of use too. Can't wait till you can give it a try and show the results
Bill
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Next to be done was the shaft that goes in the back of the toolholder I just made. I am now using the 16mm silver steel rod I bought and not the material from the kit. Simple turning operation except that the turned end has to be eccentric (offset) to the remainder of the shaft. The instructions suggest putting a 0.01" shim between the shaft and one of the jaws. I used a 0.25mm feeler gauge instead.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20140.JPG)
Cut a screwdriver slot at the other end with a slitting saw. Could have been done also with a hacksaw.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20141.JPG)
And this is how it looks.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20142.JPG)
These should be glued together with Loctite which I can't find here so instead I used what is available. This is the back label of the super glue I used. Is it any good??
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20143.JPG)
Eventually (and even the instructions suggest it) I am going to pin it also.
Vince
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Those tool holders are looking mighty fine Vince, so are those the only things lift to make to complete the grinder? How many different tool holders do you have to make?
Don
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Don, that toolholder is for the lathe tools. What's left are toolhoolders for various diameter end mills/slot drills. I can't remember exactly, but I think there are four of them. Alternatively, I think, I can also fit a commercial ER20 collet chuck which has a 16mm straight shank (but I still need to check on this).
Vince
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Whilst waiting for the paint on the Corliss base to dry, I continued to do something on the Worden.
I was going to start doing the end mill holders when I remembered that I still need to pin the lathe tool toolholder. So I drilled the hole 3.1mm.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20144.JPG)
Reduced the diameter of the barstock that came with the kit by polishing it and then using the big milling vice I pushed the pin in.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20145.JPG)
Cleaned it up by filing so that it was flush with the surrounding surface.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20146.JPG)
Vince
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Today, worked on the grinding wheel guard.
As you can see from the photo, I cannot push it back all the way as the top part of the guard hits the electric motor electrical connection box.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20147.JPG)
So, I set about to regain that last 20mm of movement. I need to do some surgery to the top part of the guard. Marked where I need to cut and proceeded to do the cut. I used a heavy duty Dremel cut-off wheel in the mill running at 2000 RPM.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20148.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20149.JPG)
Cut finished.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20150.JPG)
Before I clean it up with a file did a trial fit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20151.JPG)
Regained that 20mm and if I elongated the slots at the bottom I can move it another 10mm.
Vince
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Looks like your getting close Vince and it all looks great. I hope you do a demo of using it when complete.
Don
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Hi Vince
Still a couple of weeks behind you. Next jobs are to cut the wheel guard to clear motor and to machine the wheel hub.
Yet to start on any of the actual jigs
Bought most of the available attachments so a fair way to go still.
Looking forward to hearing of your first experiences with yours
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4371_zpsywgimmhk.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4369_zpstlizbpwj.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4368_zpsvup57nmj.jpg)
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Very, very nice. Thanks for posting the photos.
I see that you have done the wiring also. The electric motor plinth has an 8mm hole at the front. Do you have any idea what's that for?
Vince
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Very, very nice. Thanks for posting the photos.
I see that you have done the wiring also. The electric motor plinth has an 8mm hole at the front. Do you have any idea what's that for?
Vince
Sorry no idea what that 8mm hole is for, will have a scan through the instructions for the various other add on kits I have to see if they give any clues
Yes wired up the motor last night, felt like a night off from drilling and tapping. Wiring was no problem, the instructions made sense thankfully :)
-
No problem.
Just sent Kirk at Hemingway an email asking about it.
Vince
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Answer
The hole is for a end fixing capacitor that is no longer supplied
Stuart
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Answer
The hole is for a end fixing capacitor that is no longer supplied
Stuart
Ah, that makes sense, I've just left my capacitor rattling around in the motor base
-
Thanks Stuart.
In that case I might plug it with a bolt and also use it as an earth terminal. I might also put the capacitor in there as per drawings.
Vince
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Received a reply from Kirk about that hole. He said:
"This was located to accept a simple Drill Grinding jig."
Vince
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You guys are sure doing a nice job on these. I am very much looking forward to seeing how they work and your experiences with them.Still following along here.
Bill
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Synergyn9, when you did the wiring, did you check the motor windings with a multimeter to see which is the starter winding and the main winding?
Vince
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Yes, identified which pair was which using a multimeter as advised in the instructions. One pair has minutely lower resistance than the other.
If your struggling I can take cover off my wiring box on motor and get the colour combinations for you, as I guess our kits were bought around the same time
-
Thanks for the info. I asked just in case you used a different method.
Vince
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Here I am again.
Haven't done much on the Worden as life was in the way. Also, I am thinking the best possible way to go about doing the metric end mill holders. I tinkered about with the brown stuff and turned this wooden wine box
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20152.JPG)
into this
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20153.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20154.JPG)
which fits in the base of the Worden.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20155.JPG)
So now I know where to store the diamond wheel dresser and the end mill holders.
Vince
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8) And it looks like you need two single bottle boxes for the holes on either side. :naughty:
Jo
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I only do multiples. :wine1: :wine1:
Vince
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Vince have you considered forcing yourself to buy some of that fine Scottish produce or say 30 year old Port, I don't recall either being sold in multiples and you have two holes to fill ::)
Jo
-
Nicely done Vince
May I suggest a nice bottle of Glenfarclas 105. It's full cask strength 70% proof that should fill one hole
But no machining after drinking 😇
Stuart
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Very nice Vince, shall add something similar to my to do list
Like you, life getting in the way of Worden progress at present
-
Nice!
Time to buy some wine.
-
Very nice 'upcycling' of the wine box :praise2: :ThumbsUp:
-
Finished the end mill holders.
After a bit of research on the shank diameters of metric HSS end mill holders it was found that the commonest shank diameters are 6mm, 10mm, 12mm and 16mm. Obviously there are larger but 16mm shank diameter is the maximum for the Worden. Also, this does not hold true for solid carbide end mills.
So I made three blanks for the end mill holders.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20156.JPG)
These were drilled and reamed to the required diameters.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20157.JPG)
And here are the finished holders. The 16 mm shank diameter end mills will go directly into the Worden toolholder. In fact that was the reason why I made it 16mm instead of 5/8".
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20159.JPG)
So that finishes the mechanical part of the build. The electrical wiring is to follow.
At first I was thinking of not painting the machine but recently I have changed my mind as it would afford a little rust protection. I was lucky to find somebody here who has some Hammerite spray cans and was thinking of using those. Problem is I have not decided yet on the colour. With the electric motor being blue, I was thinking of using a bluish colour, or maybe black.
What do you think guys?
Vince
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Very nice tool you have made for your shop.
Personally I would add some Imperial sizes, since a lot off these mills can be had a lot cheaper than in Metric .... :old:
-
Vince, that latest picture of the drawer installed does show a bit of rust already forming on some of the sheet metal parts. Nothing bad yet from the appearance of things but likely to continue just the same. I have used the hammertone finishes we have here on a few things with good results. I think matching the blue color of the motor may be difficult though. I assume you would mask off those nice graduations you did to keep them crisp and clear. After a good cleanup, and painting with the finish/color of your choice (black works for me), you could perhaps add a clear coat over the paint to also protect any non painted areas like the degree scale. Not sure, but you might have to do something similar wherever there are parts sliding against each other in normal use, as paint wouldn't hold up very well there. Something else to consider might be a good quality metal polish like the MAAS stuff Don put me onto. It claims to leave behind a corrosion inhibitor, just not sure if it would be equally effective on steel, though it does mention stainless steel on the label. Here is a link to what you are looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Maas-International-Metal-Polish-1-1-Pound/dp/B0008E0AFS/ref=sr_1_3/176-9446166-8752746?ie=UTF8&qid=1454417443&sr=8-3&keywords=maas+metal+polishing+creme
Bill
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At first I was thinking of not painting the machine but recently I have changed my mind as it would afford a little rust protection. I was lucky to find somebody here who has some Hammerite spray cans and was thinking of using those.
Definitely paint it before use. I was too eager to try mine out , and once it's got some grinding dust on it paint won't take well - so mine sits there unpainted, with a light patina of rust :-(
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Thanks Admiral, Bill and Bob for your comments.
Personally I would add some Imperial sizes, since a lot off these mills can be had a lot cheaper than in Metric .... :old:
Yes, they might be cheaper but they are not available here and if I had to order them from the UK then they will end up more expensive due to postage.
Bill and Bob, I intend to paint it before I start using it otherwise it will never get painted.
Vince
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This is mostly for Synergyn9.
So this evening I played a bit with the switch to see how it is fixed in the motor plinth. To say the truth, it took a bit of head scratching to figure it out but I think I managed it but not as the instructions specify. So I am not sure if I am doing it correctly.
These are the photos of the fitted switch.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20160.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20161.JPG)
How did you manage to tighten the switch knob to the switch shaft?? I suspect that this can only be done before the motor plinth is fixed to the base.
Also, the instructions say that the two 3mm screws that came with the switch should be replaced with the longer 3mm cheese headed screws that come with the kit (see photo below on the right). When I tried that I found that that they fit but as the cheese head remains exposed, than the switch bezel will not fit properly. So I tried the original countersunk screws and they work perfectly!
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20162.JPG)
What are those two self-tapping screws on the left? These were in the box with the switch. Are they red herrings?
Did you use those stickers (see photo at the bottom)? What are they for?
Vince
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Regarding the switch knob - can you swap the screw for a regular grub screw and then use an allen key to tighten it?
Still following your build,
Simon.
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Yes, they might be cheaper but they are not available here and if I had to order them from the UK then they will end up more expensive due to postage.
I got most of the few tools I bought so far from eBay.de (Germany) and freight is extremely cheap - The German Government pays part of the shipment cost inside the EU for all parcels from Germany in order to support German Internet business ....
-
Regarding the switch knob - can you swap the screw for a regular grub screw and then use an allen key to tighten it?
Thanks Simon. That's a great idea. Have to investigate it.
Vince
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Wired up the switch but left it outside the plinth just to check that all the electric parts are working.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20163.JPG)
The cover for the electric motor plinth should be attached to the plinth with two supplied self-tapping screws. I did not like the idea, so instead I tapped the screw holes 4mm and will be using 4mm screws instead of the self-tapping screws.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20164.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20165.JPG)
Vince
-
8)
Vince, are you going to add an extra earth wire to that connection to provide an earth for the switch box? (I am assuming the motor is also earthed :))
Jo
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Yes Jo, that's the plan.
The motor is already earthed. For the box I can either use one of the motor mounting bolts or I can use an unused hole in the front of the plinth, put a bolt through it and use it as an earth terminal.
Vince
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Hi Vince
Sorry I missed your post. With the switch knob I had no difficulty doing it up with a small screwdriver at an angle. There was just sufficient room.
I used the original screws and not the longer one's as you also found necessary
The self tappers I suspect are for an alternative fitting using different holes in the plate. I did not use
The small round stickers I used to attach the bezel plate onto the main plastic plate (they are double sided though the brown backing is a pig to get off)
The bigger sticker is used to put a white ring around the switch knob (sticks under knob to bezel)
At least these were the conclusions that I came to, could be wrong ;D
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Thanks for the info synergyn9.
Vince
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Looks like you getting close to sharing tools there Vince. Nice work bud......... :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
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Thanks Don. Close, but not close enough. I would like to solve the problem of the cooling air from the electric motor fan from blowing all the grit towards the operator.
Vince
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Thanks Don. Close, but not close enough. I would like to solve the problem of the cooling air from the electric motor fan from blowing all the grit towards the operator.
Vince
The blades that come with motors are flat and move volume of air without pressure. For the amount of time you run the motor to grind tools I would remove it. The motor will heat up but it takes a good load to make it heat faster. An option is to replace with or make a propeller type blade that moves the air one direction only and towards the rear. That would mean opening the fan guard more..... Just saying........
Don
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Vince, any chance of putting a longish suction nozzle (say the width of the grinding wheel) just under the wheel where the grit would mainly fall anyway and then attaching that to the shop-vac? I am thinking the suction would be stronger than the effect of the motor fan and keep grit build up to a minimum as well. Just a thought.
Bill
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Still watching Vince. I don't know much about such things...but it's interesting.
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Vince don't worry about the draft from the motor: The last thing you want is any of the grinding dust heading into the motor :ShakeHead:
All my Union cutter grinder gets is a quick vacuum every now and then if I remember ;)
Jo
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Thanks guys for your suggestions.
I might have half an idea how to go about it. I will try it out and see how well it works.
Vince
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Vince,
You might get an idea from this link:
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/living-with-the-worden/5011
Cheers,
Rod
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:thinking: You are right Vince that link of Rod's also mentions the dust.
I have never had that problem with any of my cutter grinders but then they are all three phase and don't get noticeably warm even without a fan :)
Jo
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Thanks Rod for that link. I've seen it before. It says the modification was described in MEW issue 104. Unfortunately I only started getting the magazine from issue 105.
With my half of an idea I am trying to keep the original grinding wheel guard. If it works I will post the details.
Vince
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The article starts by talking about why the as described guard while protecting the operator from a wheel burst funnels the air past the wheel and hence pushes the grit towards the operator :( (I don't have fully enclosed guards on my grinder's wheels :disappointed: ) The author uses a piece of plastic spiral pipe to make a guard :facepalm2:
I'd keep the original guard and put a baffle plate behind the wheel to redirect the air flow :)
Jo
P.S. If a wheel explodes it normally goes side ways so you should be relatively safe in front (that is relatively :()
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(that is relatively :()
Relatively is important. Having been on a high roof this afternoon to measure some radiation levels the thought that came to mind "was the risk of being on the roof more that the potential risks from radiation" ::)
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Not much progress. Last weekend did a lot of measuring and drawings (see attachment below) and today went hunting to find one of the two local laser cutters on the island.
They are going to charge me 30 Euro for it. That includes themselves doing the computer drawing from my pencil drawing, the actual cutting and the material which is going to be 304 stainless 1mm thick. Have I been ripped off? I have absolutely no idea how much these things cost.
This will serve also as a trial run for something else. I want to check the finish of the cut and what sort of accuracy I can get with laser cutting.
Vince
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Well, the addition to the Worden has given the desired effect. All the cooling air from the electric motor which was passing through the grinding wheel guard has now been eliminated and I can keep the same kit supplied guard.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20166.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20167.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20168.JPG)
Vince
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Good job Vince and it looks great....... :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Very nice solution to the problem Vince. That should work just fine!!
Bill
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Looking good Vince, hope you don't mind if I pinch your idea ;)
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Good idea Vince :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Don, Bill, Bjorn and synergym9. It really made a difference.
Synergym9 you are welcome to pinch away. Thing is that this fix only works with our types of electric motors which can be front mounted (pre-tapped holes on the front flange).
Vince
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Vince a nice back plate cover.
I do not think that they have ripped you off with the work they done on the back plate.
Over here it will cost a lot more.
Tjark.
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Thanks Tjark for that info. That will encourage me to do other things with laser cutting.
Vince
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As I made all my holders metric, I could not buy the wheel dresser from Hemingway. So I got a 10mm half carat dresser from the UK which arrived yesterday.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20169.JPG)
I could have gotten it much cheaper from the Far East but I just did not trust the quality with those prices.
The build instructions suggest to put a thin card between the electric motor plinth and the base. So I cut a piece of gasket paper to size.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20170.JPG)
So basically the Worden is finished and I could start using it, but I am resisting the temptation to use it. I need to paint it first. This morning I went to buy the Hammerite spray cans but the shop that sells them was closed. A wasted weekend.
Vince
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Don't you hate it when that happens Vince....all geared up to do something and the materials aren't available :(
Bill
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So basically the Worden is finished and I could start using it, but I am resisting the temptation to use it. I need to paint it first. This morning I went to buy the Hammerite spray cans but the shop that sells them was closed. A wasted weekend.
Vince
Very frustrating, for us too.. Would like to see it in use :popcorn:
I can't stand situations like this, been known to fly model airplanes in semi-finished condition for whole seasons, until worn out even...
Kudos to you!
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Finally finished painting the various parts. Was lucky as during the last couple of days the daytime temperature was hovering around 20 deg. C which is ideal for this type of paint.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20171.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20172.JPG)
Not really bothered with the finish as it was only done as a rust preventer. On Friday I will start with the re-assembly.
Vince
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Nice color combination Vince!
Your T&C Grinder is going to look stunning when assembled.
I was surprised to see news print that I could actually read? Is English language common on Malta?
Dave
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Vince, did you end up using the hamnertone finish or not. Couldn't tell from the pictures but could be because I was looking on the smartphone.
Bill
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Bill I used this type of paint: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_smooth_finish.jsp
It gives a smooth finish and not the hammered finish.
Dave, English (ex British colony) and our language (Maltese) are both official languages and both languages are compulsory subjects at school.
Vince
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Bill I used this type of paint: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_smooth_finish.jsp
Hmm, think I might try painting mine with that now, perhaps it will even stick over all the muck-and-bullets of several years use/storage... ;)
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Looking good Vince will follow your lead on the paint, blue and red I think.
Will be interested to know how the Hammerite stands up to the sliding of the table top
Mine is now also finished and about to start work on fitting the table traverse kit and making all the other attachments I bought at the outset.
Also just ordered my next project from Kirk, the Compact Powered Hacksaw. If people are interested I may do build threads on the Worden accessories and the hacksaw
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Will be interested to know how the Hammerite stands up to the sliding of the table top
I do not think that it will stand up too well to the slide but time will tell.
I was thinking of getting the traverse kit before painting it but could not resist finishing it off. Would love to see a general arrangement drawing of the traverse kit.
Would love to see a build thread of the power hacksaw. Initially I was going to get the hacksaw but some of the castings were out of stock so I got the Worden instead.
Vince
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Time for a stupid question!! :facepalm:
I have two cable glands (see below) which are bolted to the electric motor plinth. The question is, on which side is the rubber washer fitted. I suspect it should be inside the plinth but I am not sure.
Help please before I start my final re-assembly.
Vince
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Mount the rubber washer on the fixed part of the fitting: If you put it on the inside with the nut then when the nut goes round and round it could damage the washer.
Jo
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I would go for outside , that's what I did in the past
Reason when you tighten the job up you hold the gland and turn the nut ,if the washer is under the nut it will twist and push out
But as its not going to get wet do not bother 🤓
Looking good don't forget to ring the wheel before you spin it up and do not stand to the side
Stuart
Jo beat me to it 😇
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Vince it goes with the gland and the nut fits inside. You don't need it unless you plan on getting the grinder wet. Helps make it water tight...
Don
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Thanks guys (that includes you Jo) for the help. In that case I can do without it.
Vince
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Hi Vince, nice colours and progress. Waiting for the first flying sparks.
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Thanks Achim.
Waiting for the first flying sparks.
I was planning to make some sparks this weekend, but when I was going to re-assemble the table I got thinking. :thinking:
Most probably I was going to get the traverse kit in the near future which would mean I would have to dis-assemble the table again. With the paint now on, it would not do a lot of good to the paint job. So I ordered the traverse kit and will do that before assembling the table.
Vince
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Oh, the suspence...
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:embarassed: :embarassed: :embarassed:
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Hi Vince, is there any link to a video available where the Worden grinder is in action ?
I have tried to find something but without success.
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I haven't found anything also.
Vince
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Vince, basic Worden complete, now going to fit the traverse kit and then paint
Some draw filing still required to tidy up
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/Worden3_zpscgdsdtep.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/nickginger1/media/Worden3_zpscgdsdtep.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/Worden2_zpsyxbwutpp.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/nickginger1/media/Worden2_zpsyxbwutpp.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/Worden4_zpsvdogm6zl.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/nickginger1/media/Worden4_zpsvdogm6zl.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/Worden1_zpsvdd5swlg.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/nickginger1/media/Worden1_zpsvdd5swlg.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/Worden5_zpsisdckkwq.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/nickginger1/media/Worden5_zpsisdckkwq.jpg.html)
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Very nice synergyn9. Hopefully my traverse kit should be here next week. I see that the handle of the traverse kit is different than that shown on the website. The one on the website looks too large.
Vince
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I read somewhere that it was a good idea to put something under the grinding wheel to collect some of the dust. I think I will use this.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20173.JPG)
It's a metal lid from a cigar box I had laying around. I will give it a try and see if it is effective.
Vince
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Vince,
That's a very nice looking job you've made - certainly nicer than mine! I made a hub yesterday to mount one of ARC's diamond wheels. This reminded me that, in the past, I have been confused by which of the hub screws houses the key screw and which is the tightening screw. I've put a centre pop by the key screw on all my hubs to remind me that this one needs fully withdrawing before trying to remove the grinding wheel from the motor spindle.
HTH,
Rod
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Thanks Rod. Great idea. I had that same problem yesterday when I mounted the grinding wheel.
Vince
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Vince that really looks like a proper job, really interested to see what you can do with it!
Simon.
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Vince that really looks like a proper job, really interested to see what you can do with it!
Simon.
Yea and your painting skills are not bad either Vince.......... :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Thanks Simon and Don.
really interested to see what you can do with it!
Me too.
Vince
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Well done Vince. Professional.
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Man, Vince, that is really nice looking!
Are you sure you want to go and get it dirty with all that metal dust and grit? It looks so shiny and new! Maybe you should just set it on the dining room table? :Lol:
Kim
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Thanks Carl and Kim. Still not finished yet.
It looks so shiny and new! Maybe you should just set it on the dining room table? :Lol:
Kim, don't say these things too loud lest my wife hears you and it ends up next to the Corliss and then I can't get my grubby hands on it. :'(
Vince
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No progress as yet. Had to go abroad but in the meantime I received the traverse kit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20174.JPG)
Not many bits and pieces. There is also a plastic pipe/tube. Had a quick look at the instructions. It is going to be interesting working on the plastic pipe. This will be the guide tube for the threaded rod. The OD of the plastic pipe is about 20mm and has a wall thickness of about 2mm. According to the instructions I need to machine both ends of the pipe to 3/4" and then thread 3/4" X 26TPI. I was thinking of doing it 19 X 0.5mm instead.
Also I think I will change the threaded rod to a stainless steel threaded rod.
Vince
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Hi Vince
I've bought the required tap/die and tried the plastic pipe route, failed dismally. I think to do the plastic tube you would need to cut the thread on the lathe.
I've now ordered some aluminium tube of similar dimension and I'm having more success although awaiting a bigger die stock to cut the thread properly.
Let me know how you get on with the plastic tube
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Hi synergyn9
26 TPI is very close to 1mm pitch and trying to cut a 1mm pitch thread on a tube with just 1mm wall thickness is just asking for trouble I guess. That is the reason I am going to try a 0.5mm pitch thread instead. Still not sure if it will work out though. We will see.
Vince
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Finally found some time to start work on the traverse kit and made a scrap part worthy of the bin! It has been some time since I had to throw something out. I guess my luck ran out.
Yesterday I had started work on the two tube clamp nuts. I decided to tap them 19 X 0.5mm. By mistake, I bored the material 19mm instead of 18.5mm! Today I decided to do them again with aluminium until I find a piece of free cutting mild steel. I was not sure if I could tap it with such a fine thread so what I did today was more of a test than anything else.
The setup I used for tapping.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20175.JPG)
The two finished tube clamp nuts. The piece on the left is the unusable part.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20176.JPG)
I think I will now cut a female matching thread to see if it is going to work out.
Vince
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Hi Vince, just finished my traverse kit this afternoon.
As you know I gave up on the plastic tube and went with Al tube 3/4 x 16swg. Other amendment I made was on the handle, instead of a fixed peg, I have it rotating on a countersunk M5 allen bolt
All seems to work well.
Onto diamond wheel kit next and then radius grinding attachment.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4431_zpsfgfdn6ig.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4430_zpsk5ajc82f.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/nickginger1/IMG_4429_zps7q2wbggu.jpg)
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Thanks synergyn9. Those photos are very welcome.
Vince
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So this morning I made a test male thread to see if the nuts I made can be screwed on easily. It worked.
That gave me the confidence I needed to make the threads on the plastic tube. To reduce the plastic tube diameter from 20mm to 19mm I used a parting blade. That was the only cutting tool I could get in there as I was supporting the tube with a live centre.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20177.JPG)
With the end turned down to 19mm, it left a wall thickness of less than 1mm. I used this contraption to help me in threading.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20178.JPG)
The small cylinder will go in the tube to support it and the large disk will keep the die holder square to the tube. Threading with the die was easier than I anticipated.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20179.JPG)
Both sides threaded with the clamp nuts screwed in.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20180.JPG)
I think this was the hardest thing to do in the whole Worden build but it seems it has turned out OK. I am still a little pissed of that silly mistake I made, but I guess, that's life.
Vince
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Good job Vince, glad it worked out for you
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Thanks synergyn9. This evening I cut the slot in the plastic tube. I made it 6mm instead of 1/4".
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20181.JPG)
Vince
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No, I haven't abandoned the project. I just was very busy for the last month. But I can say that the traverse kit has been finished and basically the Worden is also finished.
What did I do different? For starters I used a stainless steel leadscrew instead of that one that came with the kit. I seems to work better and the travel is smoother most probably because the threads on the stainless steel version are better.
I changed the handle. Instead of a solid handle, I made one which rotates freely as you are turning the handle.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20182.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20183.JPG)
Here I am milling a 45 degree rebate on one of the parts.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20184.JPG)
Before fitting the work table I thought I would take a couple of photos of the fitted traverse kit.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20185.JPG)
The leadscrew is in the black plastic tube.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20186.JPG)
The traverse kit in the disengaged mode.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20187.JPG)
And in the engaged mode.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20188.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20189.JPG)
Vince
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Nicely done Vince. Looking forward to seeing what this thing will do now :)
Bill
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Thanks Bill.
Well, I managed to complete the final assembly of the Worden. Did some tweaking to get the wheel parallel to the work table before dressing.
Took some final shots before I start scratching it.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20190.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20191.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20192.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20193.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20194.JPG)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20195.JPG)
A shot of the diamond dresser after the operation was completed.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20196.JPG)
Now I need to see if I can locally acquire some 10mm square HSS blanks to make something useful with it. I also need to figure out where I am going to store this tool.
In the future, I would like to do the drill grinding jig and the radius attachment jig for it but first I need to take a break from it.
Vince
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That's a fine looking tool your finish there Vince. Are you really going to use it, seem a shame to ding it up. :Lol:
Don
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I know Don, I know.
Vince
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Looking good Vince. Still to paint mine, like you I'm taking a break at moment
What's the flat metal tool in your tool drawer for? Alignment?
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Looks great to me :praise2: :praise2: I am interested to see how it actually works having currently moved towards replaceable insert tooling rather than grinding my own.
I also keep looking at the Hemingway power hacksaw as a possible next tool build.
-
Looks like a proper professional bit of kit Vince - also interested to see what it can do.
Simon.
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Thanks guys for the comments.
What's the flat metal tool in your tool drawer for? Alignment?
That is a home-made spanner for the locknuts. As the leadscrew is held by two locknuts on each side, I found that I could not use two full size spanners next to each other to tighten the locknuts against each other. So I made that spanner from 3mm flat bar to hold one of the locknuts while using a full size spanner to tighten the other locknut next to it.
Vince
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Hi Vince
I was thinking the same thing as Simon; that's a professional looking tool.
Very nice work!
Dave
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Hi Vince, very well made. Your did some sharpening/grinding already ?
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Thanks Dave and Achim.
I could not find locally any 12mm HSS blanks so I used a little used HSS cutter that has seen better times and ground the other end to make a knife tool as per instructions.
Grinding one of the faces at 20 degrees.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20197.JPG)
Grinding the front face of the tool.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20198.JPG)
And the finished tool.
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Worden20199.JPG)
Not bad for a first attempt. I was surprised who smooth the ground faces came out. I just gave it a quick lap on a stone to remove the burrs.
Now a couple of silly questions just to show my inexperience.
Which is the top face of the tool I just made? Is it the face with the 20 degree angle? When does the grinding wheel need another dressing?
Vince
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Hi Vince, well with my inexperience I would say the 20 degree angle is not the face because I don't think you should ever need that much rake. As for dressing the stone, just touch it off before each use to keep the face flat and square. Or grind off the bigger waste then dress the stone for the final run. That's my two cents.
Don
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Vince,
I'd use that tool in the orientation shown in the photo - very good for the bulk removal of steel. As Don suggests, I think the Worden was designed for finishing off tools with the bulk of the rough shaping being done on a conventional off hand bench grinder. Using it like that I've found that I don't need to true the wheel very often, although it gets dirty looking it still seems to cut well. I only generally true the wheel if I want a sharp corner as the edge tends to round with use.
That's a very nice job you've made of the traverser - I really must get on and do mine.
Cheers,
Rod
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Nicely done Vince.
And a good question about dressing.
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Thanks Don, Rod and Carl for the comments and advice.
Vince
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If you can't see the photos of this build suggest to go here:
https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Worden_1.html
Vince