Model Engine Maker
Supporting => Vehicles & Models => Topic started by: joe d on September 18, 2013, 04:08:29 AM
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Hi
I've been nibbling away at a 1" Minnie since last winter. Started with cutting the gears, as I wanted to see if i could do this or not.
Turned out ok in the end, and only made one fractional gear (any body need a 79 & 1/3rd tooth gear?)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4487_zps0771c1de.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4487_zps0771c1de.jpg.html)
Here's the whole batch:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4483_zps2325a8fc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4483_zps2325a8fc.jpg.html)
Then had a whack at carving out a flywheel from a solid chunk of cast iron:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4500_zps9178bdcb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4500_zps9178bdcb.jpg.html)
after milling it out, did a lot of filing and ended up with this:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4506_zps4f136055.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4506_zps4f136055.jpg.html)
I'm pretty happy with how these turned out, first time around for both operations.
Then turned my attention to the boiler, consulted a number of knowledgeable people for advice regarding the construction as I really don't need the excitement that would ensue from building a bomb...
Did some copper bashing (many thanks to "Firebird" Rich, and Sandy C for their postings on this in another place a long time ago, otherwise would not
have had the faintest idea :ThumbsUp: )
and have ended up here:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4689_zpsedd54d84.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4689_zpsedd54d84.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4687_zpsc8c23ed6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4687_zpsc8c23ed6.jpg.html)
Just now starting to work on a pump for the hydro test. Keep those fingers crossed!
(Lots of other "in progress" photos available if anybody wants to see anything in particular)
I'll keep posting forward progress, retrograde as well, helpful hints, and "Don't do that you idiot!" comments are
all welcome.
Cheers, Joe
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Joe, it all looks good to me. Keep the photos coming and I'll be pulling up a chair and following along. :cheers:
Don
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Looks good to me so far Joe. You have been busy. If possible can you post a picture of a finished engine, so we will know where you are headed?
Bill
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Good looking work Joe, I like the way you started on the unknowns first. I shall follow your build with great interest as I have it in the back of my mind that I need to do a traction engine at some time and the Minnie seems a good way to go. Are you working just from drawings or do have the build book for guidance?
Jim
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That all looks great Joe!
Dave
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Hi Joe,
Great looking work, especially on the flywheel. Your boiler takes me back many years when I built the one for my 1" Case engine.
gbritnell
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Excellent work Joe! :ThumbsUp:
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Hi Joe,
Well now, you have been a busy boy... Excellent piece of milling for that flywheel and the gears look perfect (apart from the 79 1/3rd tooth one :ROFL:)... keep hold of it though, cos Rich has some weird value gearwheels from his latest project that may mary up :Jester: :naughty:
For someone who initially showed great concern :headscratch: :ShakeHead: over his ability to build a boiler I would say you had nothing to worry about... you have made a superb job of that one and you can be proud of it.
WELL DONE SIR.
I can see that your traction engine is going to be one to look out for.
Best Regards
Sandcam...AKA SandyC. :cheers:
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Hi gang
Sorry for the delay in replying, can't claim anything more than being bone-idle. :LittleAngel:
Thanks for all the kind comments. Answering a few questions in no particular order, I'm working from both the book
AND a full-size set of plans (had the plans first)
Here's a link to a bunch of photos on Google of other people's Minnies...
https://www.google.ca/search?safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=7E3&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=np&tbm=isch&source=univ&
sa=X&ei=fKFDUo20E5KiqwGuwoHQDw&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1440&bih=771&dpr=1&q=minnie%20traction%20engine%20photos (https://www.google.ca/search?safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=7E3&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=np&tbm=isch&source=univ&
sa=X&ei=fKFDUo20E5KiqwGuwoHQDw&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1440&bih=771&dpr=1&q=minnie%20traction%20engine%20photos)
Now making some progress with the pump for pressure testing: Using an illustration posted a long time ago
by Bogstandard (I think) as the plan... more or less....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4690_zps40b754a1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4690_zps40b754a1.jpg.html)
the valve sizes and the ram size are all predicated by the size of o-rings on hand, the rest is 100% TLAR engineering :) :)
even better, all the material is out of the spare parts/offcuts pile :ThumbsUp:
(Pay no mind to the date on the photo, somebody needs to reset the dang camera :lol:)
Cheers, Joe
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A little more progress:
bored out the upright on the Taig lathe:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4691_zps494db19f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4691_zps494db19f.jpg.html)
Trimmed off the bits that don't need to be there on the Taig mill....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4692_zps4297a82c.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4692_zps4297a82c.jpg.html)
Some straightforward turning and knurling & filing for the piston and handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4693_zps673af4b7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4693_zps673af4b7.jpg.html)
and that's where we are so far. Testing time coming soon : :zap:
Cheers, Joe
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When I built my Minnie I made it 125% scale- because I had a piece of copper tube that size to make the boiler.
Because it was bigger I had enough room to add a spur gear differential. This has a center gear that drives each axle, and a set of planet gears around it. I decided a 20 tooth axle gear would be nice and built them. Then I thought 3 planet gears would be cool, so built them and drilled the big bullgear for the 3 shafts to support the planets. It all looked really great, but when I tried to assemble it it became clear that a 21 tooth gear would have been better to support the 3 planets since 20 does not divide well by 3.
I redrilled for 2 planets and put the third one in my show box of parts.
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That's a fine looking flywheel as well as set of gears.
I've not done any gear cutting (except by mistake).
That boiler looks great too. Any more in-progress shots of that? Or links to some?
I have no idea what a 'Minne TE' is. Looking forward to seeing more.
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Hi Joe, still following and enjoying it. You making great progress and some impressive work to watch.
Don
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Hi again...
Ron: that sounds like something that I would do.... :headscratch: post a picture or two of your Minnie, would like to see it!
Zee: Long time no post... Still can't see an M&M without thinking of you :lolb: I had been posting my progress over on MadModder,
some "in progress" stuff on the boiler there: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8250.0.html
Don: thanks, appreciate it.
A bit more progress:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4694_zps0a114512.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4694_zps0a114512.jpg.html)
Only have to take it apart, clean up the parts, & solder it all together. Came out with a 3/8" bore, 7/8" stroke. This will only happen Monday,
as tomorrow I'm going out to play at my friend's farm (raises Clydesdales, ALARMINGLY large horses) where I will pick out my Christmas turkey (He raises 7 or 8 every year) out of this year's batch. Got the smallest one last year, 18 pounds.... :ROFL:
Cheers, Joe
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Hi
Got the pump finished,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4704_zps44586f86.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4704_zps44586f86.jpg.html)
made up a quick and dirty manifold from spare parts in the plumbing box
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4705_zps63582110.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4705_zps63582110.jpg.html)
The pump works, at 20 PSI found out that 16 of the 18 side stays leak.... :hammerbash:
They are threaded into the boiler shell, with a nut on top to act as a spacer for the hornplates.
The nuts were well soldered on to the shell, but clearly didn't get enough solder into the joint
between the the nuts and the stays. The ends inside the firebox seem to be ok so far.
So, in and out of the pickle, add a dab more solder into the joint of each one, and back in
the pickle to clean up.
Will report later with further news
Cheers, Joe
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Hi Joe,
Hopefully that is the only problem and the second hydro works out. Nice pump though.
Cheers Dan
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I hope you have better luck with those side stay screws when you try to mount the horn plates. In my case because the copper boiler was not perfectly flat the plates wound up not parallel by quite a bit.
To fix it I mounded the boiler on my mill and got one side as near flat as possible. I measured to find the screw that was the lowest. I made a hollow mill which would pass over the screw and cut the top face of the nut. I set the mill depth stop for the lowest bolt and went around and hit every bolt. Once I had one side flat I mounted the horn plate on that side, flipped the boiler over and blocked the horn plate up flat on the table, Then did the same mill cut on all the bolts on that side.
I really dont like that design. The horn plates should have a good front and back plate so that it can be assembled square and flat, then the boiler dropped into that box and secured on something like an angle bar attached to the plates.
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Most minnie and for that matter almost all model TE copper boilers don't use the threaded stays now. Instead just solder in a thick stays that protrude from the boiler side, mill them true to the barrel, tap for fixings and screw your hornplates to that.
You can see that larger dia stays in this photo
(http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx229/dougmeller/3inchFowlerboilermillingstays.jpg)
J
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Thanks, Dan
Ron: about that hollow mill: was thinking along those lines, I've been looking at a piloted counterbore with a pilot hole that's dang near the right size
Jason: Thanks, filed for next time! That's a big'un on your mill, what's it going to be?
Joe
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Thats a 3" version of my 2" fowler on someone elses mill, 7 1/2" dia x 4mm thick barrel.
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Serious stuff there, Jason.
On my rather smaller boiler, see here:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4712_zps8445f75b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4712_zps8445f75b.jpg.html)
120 PSI for 20 minutes, and no leaks :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
This was the bit of this project that had me most concerned, the rest is pretty straight forward machining,
just lots of it!
Cheers, Joe
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Nice one Joe. :whoohoo: I hope I do as well with the boiler for my build.
:cheers:
Dan
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Good going Joe, and congrats on the hydraulic test.
That pump sure takes things up to pressure quickly ;)
Kind regards, Arnold
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Dan: Thanks, don't think you will have any problems judging by your work so far!
Arnold: Good to hear from you. Your clean-up is making me nervous: might have to actually try to find the floor in my shop :hellno:
Cut out some sheet for the hornplates, the soldering of the stays had left a nice little fillet on each stud so instead of cleaning that up and
probably creating some leaks, counter sunk the rear of each hole to let the plates sit down flat. A bit of a fiddly process,
start with the highest one, shave out a little material, offer up, repeat. worked out ok in the end, all square and solid now.
I did get carried away with the filing on the bottom edge of these, they're now 1/16" shorter than they should be :hammerbash:
I'll have to either adjust the dimension of the tender sides when I get there, or add on a little molding to make up the difference.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4714_zps7695a87d.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4714_zps7695a87d.jpg.html)
Moving along... needed some little angles 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/16" to fasten the spectacle plate and the back plate. Mason suggests milling these out from solid, I elected to just shave down some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8" stuff that was on the shelf.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg.html)
came out OK:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4721_zps511cd8f3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4721_zps511cd8f3.jpg.html)
Made up a depthing tool to set out the locations for the various shafts
once the gears mesh properly, tighten up the nut at the joint, and use the pointed ends of the shafts underneath by setting one at a known location, and using the other as a scriber to mark the spot for the next shaft.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4722_zps00dc4494.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4722_zps00dc4494.jpg.html)
I'll fasten the two hornplates together, and drill & ream the shaft holes through both at once, so hopefully they line up!
Cheers, Joe
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I'll fasten the two hornplates together, and drill & ream the shaft holes through both at once, so hopefully they line up!
Be careful of how you reference these. I think you will need to use a surface gauge to scribe lines on the bottom edge of each plate while they are bolted onto the boiler. Then stand the boiler up on end and again scribe lines on the back edge. Once these edge are filed to the line you can then clamp the two plates together aligning with the edges.
I had a very hard time getting the plates to be exactly parallel so the axles would pass through and turn freely while mounted to the boiler.
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Thanks, Ron. Appreciate the heads-up.
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Hi Joe, nice to see some progress. Congrats on your hydraulic test, bet that was a relief to not have any leaks, good going. Looks like the pump tested good also.
Don
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A belated thanks, Don... I was quite surprised at how quickly the pump pushed up the pressure :ThumbsUp:
been nibbling away at a number of things on the project since the last posting
Milled some 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/16 angle from some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 that was in the "stuff" pile
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4717_zps381e5f3a.jpg.html)
these hold in the spectacle plate and back plate between the horn plates, and are riveted in place: this necessitated some riveting tools :Lol:
so turned up a short length of O1 (silver steel) drilled one piece as a set, put a "dimple" in one with a ball-end mill, and made one with a step that
would locate it in the vise as an anvil, hardened them, and :whoohoo: they worked!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4729_zps3f72997b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4729_zps3f72997b.jpg.html)
Then side tracked a bit while waiting for some reamers to arrive, started turning some steel drops into wheel rims: turned and faced, then chain drilled to remove a lot of excess material in the centre
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4724_zpsaa5c5fa6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4724_zpsaa5c5fa6.jpg.html)
laid out the drilling circle to get out the bit in the middle that is long enough to make both front rims, and one rear rim from what's left, and cleaned up the bore to have a clean surface to mount on the chuck for turning the outside dimension of the smaller bit once it is separated:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4732_zpscf71490f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4732_zpscf71490f.jpg.html)
Then my reamers showed up, so got back to the bearings: reamed the remaining mounting holes,
chucked up a bearing blank using the spigot on one end to clean up the opposite face, sweated that onto a spare bit of brass, and centred pretty much by eye in the 4 jaw to start cleaning it up .
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4737_zpsc5ef7d68.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4737_zpsc5ef7d68.jpg.html)
moved over to the mill to clean up the non-circular side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4739_zps5812d312.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4739_zps5812d312.jpg.html)
Coming along:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4741_zps6ea7e8a7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4741_zps6ea7e8a7.jpg.html)
and then working on the 6th of 8 had a little :hammerbash: moment, it came loose in the vise and I now have an interesting pattern engraved on
the top face:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4742_zpsa0110cf2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4742_zpsa0110cf2.jpg.html)
so time for a :smokin2: and a cuppa
Pondering options: I can sweat on a bit of material and shape it down to size, or just mill out the offending marks and live with the thing not matching the other side... will probably stop waffling and fix it right...
Cheers, Joe
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Or skim them both down so they match ;)
You may also want to add a notch in the flywheel side hornplate above the crankshaft bearing hole wide enough to clear the crank. This enables you to remove the crankshaft without removing the hornplate from the boiler, just unscrew the bearing, slide the crank along and out it comes.
You can just make it out on mine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Minnie4.jpg)
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Jason: Thanks for that. Took both bits of advice :cheers:
Stuck both of the bearings on a little stub of appropriately sized rod, and milled them down together until the offending
divots were gone. Maybe eventually it would have occurred to me that this was an entirely arbitrary dimension... :Doh:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4744_zpsda3fa7ff.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4744_zpsda3fa7ff.jpg.html)
got them all in place now, with some random bits of rod to check for fit & relation to each other, and a notch for simplifying
crankshaft insertion/removal
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/100_4746_zpsd6cc7991.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/100_4746_zpsd6cc7991.jpg.html)
Going to go quiet for a short time, heading out of town for a week.
Cheers, Joe
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Wow... left off when I was going out of town for a week... took a little longer to get back to the project ::)
When I last worked on this, I had come to the conclusion that the V 1.0 hornplates had to go, just to many errors
piling up.
So started back in this week by making V 1.1 , with (mostly) the right holes in the right places,
much happier with this set.
one side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2938_zpsd0ab937b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2938_zpsd0ab937b.jpg.html)
other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2939_zpscbfbd659.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2939_zpscbfbd659.jpg.html)
and the driver's view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2940_zps5c400dcf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2940_zps5c400dcf.jpg.html)
should be good for some concerted work on this now, got most of the "extra" projects out of the way
Cheers, Joe
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Hi Joe,
Good to see this moving on, I'm a great admirer of Minnie. Good work on the hornplates - is there a known issue with these? Looking forward to more, I know how life gets in the way!
Cheers, Hugh.
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Hi Hugh
I think the issue with the hornplates was me :censored:, not Mr. Mason. Haven't had any issues with the drawings so far.
Joe
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Just went back through the thread Joe to get back up to speed. Nice to see you working on it again.
Bill
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Hi Bill
Thanks for looking in. I'm glad to be back at it.
Joe
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Next up is the gear selection lever. Happily all from the "come in handy" pile of off-cuts from other things....
shaping the bracket that bolts on to the back plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2942_zpscb4395b5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2942_zpscb4395b5.jpg.html)
then indexed it around the drill bit that made the hole to remove the bulk of the unwanted metal before finishing rounding it over with a file
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2943_zps992db8b4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2943_zps992db8b4.jpg.html)
Started the forked lever by boring out the end of the stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2947_zpse5ad9ddc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2947_zpse5ad9ddc.jpg.html)
then through drilled both ends, and silver soldered in a bit of drill rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2950_zps5e943683.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2950_zps5e943683.jpg.html)
Cut out the middle bit and filed the pins down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2951_zps0f47e5c5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2951_zps0f47e5c5.jpg.html)
milled away a bunch more of the parent stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2952_zps82653748.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2952_zps82653748.jpg.html)
turned the handle in the Taig lathe
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2959_zps6586b974.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2959_zps6586b974.jpg.html)
soldered the handle onto the end of the lever, cleaned everything up a bit, attached the fork to the bracket with a temporary cap-screw while I wait for the die to thread the real pivot pin, and bolted it into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2960_zps19d0b86b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2960_zps19d0b86b.jpg.html)
Next up will be the water gauge.
Cheers all, Joe
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Got the water gauge mostly done now (haven't acquired the glass yet :Lol:)
turned a bit of bronze, and threaded one end, then screwed that into a slug of ali in the 4jaw.
This was pretty unstable at the length sticking out, so ran a temporary centre out of the tailstock
and took really light cuts. Used a ball end mill to form the transition from the shaft to the base of the part
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2970_zps1d5847e2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2970_zps1d5847e2.jpg.html)
once all the turning was done, chucked it up in the Taig to drill out the steam passage (the second time around. First time,
drilled it the same time I threaded the end, and it sheared off when I tried to do the turning...not enough meat left for the
stresses imparted :hammerbash: note the high-tech depth gauge on the drill bit. Tolerance of +/- 1/8" on this hole.... :Lol:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2969_zps80574b67.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2969_zps80574b67.jpg.html)
these parts have tapped or threaded spigots coming off them, this was straightforward turning drilling and tapping,
and then assembled with some flux and silver-soldered
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2973_zpse1946070.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2973_zpse1946070.jpg.html)
and then into the pickle, and do it all again for the upper end.
The lower fitting has a blow-down valve so turned and threaded a bit of stainless (started out life as a 1/4"bolt) as a valve spindle. The big lathe can't handle stock this small in it's 4 jaw, so for a previous project I had turned a spindle that mimics the spindle nose of my Taig lathe so I can use the collets that fit that lathe in it's big brother
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2977_zpsc1b811a5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2977_zpsc1b811a5.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled, tapped, knurled, and parted off a bit of 12L14 for a handwheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2981_zps6f1d1b4b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2981_zps6f1d1b4b.jpg.html)
Made a really small locknut for the handwheel in the Taig
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2982_zpsadcc744b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2982_zpsadcc744b.jpg.html)
finally, made up the nuts that will secure the glass tubing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2962_zps002ae6bf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2962_zps002ae6bf.jpg.html)
and after some clean-up with a wire wheel in the dremel, put all together, and put it in place. will work better once the tubing is there!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2984_zps147d1635.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2984_zps147d1635.jpg.html)
and that's it for now!
cheers, Joe
-
Looking good, you may find you need to use a larger hole than the No12 for the glass as most is now metric at 5mm rather than 3/16" incase you are wondering why it won't fit.
-
Great work Jo, and I'm sure that the drill depth gauge is fairly universal. Hugh.
-
Jason:
Thanks for looking in, and for the "Heads Up", I'll keep it in mind.
Hugh:
I bet you're right, why else would they sell depth stop by the roll?
Cheers, Joe
-
Moving along,
got the fire door done;
started by silver soldering a bit of round stock to some left over hornplate, some filing, and there it is, a hinge part
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2990_zpsd13791e7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2990_zpsd13791e7.jpg.html)
the catch for the latch is just a little piece of flatbar drilled and threaded on the back for an off-cut of a 7BA screw that then screws into the
bushing on the boiler. In the it's better to be lucky than good mode, the thing ended up vertical with no fussing about needed with
the point of thread engagement...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2989_zps5dd55e2f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2989_zps5dd55e2f.jpg.html)
The actual door is also a bit of round soldered onto a piece of leftover hornplate, some filing here and there, rivet on the latch bar,
file up the keeper/guide and rivet it on and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2991_zps3d125a11.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2991_zps3d125a11.jpg.html)
and here it is where it lives:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN2993_zpsf7361471.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN2993_zpsf7361471.jpg.html)
Still have to make the "real" hinge pin to replace the temporary one, and add the chain to the latch handle. Two more things on the
"little details" list....
So, onwards and upwards with a lot of repetitive stuff now, making 70+ strakes and a bunch of spokes to start assembling the rear
wheels.
Joe
-
Looking good :praise2: I'm enjoying the build :ThumbsUp:
-
Cheers, Roger, thanks for looking in!
-
Very nice Joe. I'm following along.
-Bob
-
Hi Joe
What a great project.
Love it!
Pete
-
Bob and Pete: Thanks for looking in to you two as well. Sorry for the tardy reply, the Missus and I've just come back from a week in the
sun and the warm in Curacao :whoohoo:
At noon today I was on the beach at 29degrees c, now I'm back in Montreal at a balmy -13...
I'm starting to get too old for this winter stuff.... but, the heater in the shop works :ThumbsUp:
Cheers, Joe
-
Welcome back Joe...looking forward to seeing more of Minnie...those warm beaches sound mighty inviting though I must say :)
Bill
-
Joe I am still following with great interest, as this engine is also on my list of builts to do.
Don
-
Bill and Don:
Thanks for following along. (Reminds me of the old joke about a junior officer's efficiency report...
"His men will follow him anywhere... just to see what the silly bugger gets up to next" ) :Lol:
I will admit that the beach was just fine.
Been collecting plans and books on TEs for a few years, the only problem I see coming is that one probably
won't be enough :ROFL:
Cheers, Joe
-
Been slogging along with what is probably the most repetitious machining in this whole project
cut a bunch of steel strips into smaller bits, then stacked them in the mill to bring them down to size
(the strips were sheared, so they all had less than square edges)
Here's the last Stack-O-Strakes getting taken down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3246_zpspmxfbnbd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3246_zpspmxfbnbd.jpg.html)
and here's the blanks for front spokes, rear spokes, and strakes:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3247_zpsxqsgg3zx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3247_zpsxqsgg3zx.jpg.html)
and here's the set-up on the rotary table for the 1st op on the spokes, curving the end that lies next to the rim of the wheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3248_zpslvxakrmc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3248_zpslvxakrmc.jpg.html)
lots to do still, but it's coming along.
Joe
-
Some progress here,
started on the rear spokes, gang milling them:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3249_zpseacsbm6b.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3249_zpseacsbm6b.jpg.html)
all done on one side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3250_zpswp66alld.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3250_zpswp66alld.jpg.html)
and all done on the other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3252_zpslupswdy0.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3252_zpslupswdy0.jpg.html)
so now moving to the strakes, got to trim 2 ends, drill & c'sink two holes each, 70 of them (plus a couple of spares)
should keep me out of trouble long enough for the material for the hubs I've just ordered to arrive
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking good, I took the easy route and bought laser cut ones but I did not have a mill at the time
-
Still following along and enjoying :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
That's a lot of bits to make :ThumbsUp: ::) I thought that the people making V8s and 9 cylinder radials had a lot to do :headscratch:
-
Jason: After the fact, the bought in ones look pretty good....
Roger: Thanks. After this, its mostly ones or twos of things.
Joe
-
Getting there a bit at a time...
a real lash-up to present the ends of the strakes to the end mill to trim them at the required angle (a lot of very light cuts...)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3254_zpsfkeu6irc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3254_zpsfkeu6irc.jpg.html)
Mason suggests this gadget in his book for drilling the rivet holes in the strakes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3255_zpsf3hso97i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3255_zpsf3hso97i.jpg.html)
clamp the strake in the jig (or is it a fixture? can never remember which is which) flip it over and drill through
the guide hole in the thing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3256_zpszr60oz86.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3256_zpszr60oz86.jpg.html)
after doing a bunch of drilling, do a bunch of de-burring, and a bunch of counter-sinking, and next thing you know
you've got a pile of left and right handed strakes!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3257_zpsmdbpepwz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3257_zpsmdbpepwz.jpg.html)
There's 35 of these per wheel, so there's going to be a very short pause while I cobble together something to let me
index the rims on the lathe to mark out the strake rivet holes, as very conveniently I have a 35 tooth gear in the set
of change gears...
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking good Joe and you get them handed. Bit late now but it may help others thinking of making the engine and that is that teh CSK holes for the strakes don't need to be as wide, infact the best way to do them is with a centre drill with 1/16" pilot and just use a bit of the 60deg part to form a deper but smaller dia CSK. This follows full size practice which allowed for wear on the strakes, the deeper CSK holding tehm on for longer.
Luckily you have steel rims so should not be such a problem filling the CSK with rivit but could be a problem if using teh ali castings
-
Wow that's a lot of parts Joe. Technically that is a jig since it guides the cutting tool, though more generally that would be done by a drill bushing or something similar. A fixture on the other hand only holds the workpiece and does not guide the cutting tool or in this case the drill.
Bill
-
Jason: Thanks for that. Tried out the size spec'd on the jig, the result looks large to me, but decided to go "by the book". I certainly agree
that it would be asking for trouble pounding them that large on an ali casting.
Bill: thanks. Willing to bet that I'll have forgotten which is which by the time I make another of either ::)
Joe
-
Well, got some strakes installed!
Since the layout was done, started off with spotting for the rivets for the spokes, once around with a solid carbide
drill bit (really stiff for it's length, so does OK as a spotting drill) and the once around with the actual drill.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3268_zpsyqmnxfxm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3268_zpsyqmnxfxm.jpg.html)
pre-drilled some of the rivet holes for the strakes, bash in the rivet on one side, and use the hole in the strake to locate
for drilling on t'other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3275_zpswdj3sfzq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3275_zpswdj3sfzq.jpg.html)
Here's the quick and dirty anvil in use
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3276_zps4mlzwpom.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3276_zps4mlzwpom.jpg.html)
and here's two rims ready for assembly (which will wait, the stock for the hubs still hasn't shown up yet)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3277_zpsjet31akv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3277_zpsjet31akv.jpg.html)
I'm really glad this bit is over.... I'm starting to hate my drill-press...
Joe
-
Still following you Joe and you doing some impressive work. :praise2:
:popcorn:
Don
-
That's a LOT of riveting there Joe, but the results look terrific!! Looking forward to seeing how the spokes go in once the hub material arrives.
Bill
-
.... I'm starting to hate my drill-press...
Joe
Don't hate it too much, the two of you have done a great job together. Hugh.
-
Don, Bill, Hugh: Thanks!
Decided to carry on with the front wheels while in wheel mode. (still waiting for stock for the rear wheel hubs...)
Finished up the spokes, more of the same stuff as for the rear wheels, drilled the rims for spoke locations,
and then set them up in the mill to cut with the slitting saw to simulate separate pieces of stock as the tire tread
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3280_zpsupmquqzy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3280_zpsupmquqzy.jpg.html)
then turned the 3 part hubs, only interesting thing there was using a ball nose mill to form a radius on the inner piece
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3278_zpsnqivhnlz.jpg.html)
set up the centre portion of the hubs on the rotary table to mill slots for the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3281_zpscjvikuz2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3281_zpscjvikuz2.jpg.html)
Then made up a jig to hold the rim and the hub in position for fitting the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3282_zpspznz6xam.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3282_zpspznz6xam.jpg.html)
at that point, gave up for the day, time for a cuppa
Cheers, Joe
-
Got a bit more done on the front wheels
with the spokes in place held by a capscrew at the rim, went to the drill press and sequentially drilled the inner end of the spokes
where they lay on the hub, then clearance drilled and counter sunk each one, and then moved to the pillar tool to tap the hub for retaining
screws
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3283_zpswft7cpor.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3283_zpswft7cpor.jpg.html)
once that was all done, bashed in the rivets all around, chucked them up in the 4-jaw to take a little skim to ensure the hub inners were true to the axis of rotation, and then
sweated together all the hub bits
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3286_zpshudxs5k7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3286_zpshudxs5k7.jpg.html)
back again in the lathe to finish bore the axle hole to size, a bit of clean-up and a coat of primer and here we are
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3291_zpsebn3d2d1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3291_zpsebn3d2d1.jpg.html)
Cheers, Joe
-
They look the business - nice work!
Simon.
-
Extremely nice work. Many years ago I bought the book to build the 'Minnie' but never got to it. I'm following your progress with great interest.
gbritnell
-
Simon, George: Thanks for looking in!
Joe
-
Keeping on with some front-end stuff, slit an off-cut of the boiler barrel tube to make the smoke box,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3288_zps6x59ugim.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3288_zps6x59ugim.jpg.html)
re-formed it around a piece of stock the same diameter as the boiler, and soldered in a little strip of copper to fill the gap,
and the put the handy indexing device back on the lathe to mark out rivet locations
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3289_zpsp4vhvpgd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3289_zpsp4vhvpgd.jpg.html)
that done, rolled a strip for the base of the perch bracket (to fit the smokebox)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3293_zpsfnou5din.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3293_zpsfnou5din.jpg.html)
bent up another piece of the same material and silver soldered them together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3297_zpsbaankb6w.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3297_zpsbaankb6w.jpg.html)
then bored a hole in the bottom piece to fit a brnze bushing, and milled another piece to form the pushpole fitting, and soldered them in place
with a lower temperature solder
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3298_zps01lui9gx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3298_zps01lui9gx.jpg.html)
turned and threaded both ends of 2 pieces of flat bar and riveted them in to provide studs for securing a coverplate front and back (simple hack-saw and file work for those)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3300_zpscsr2eqo9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3300_zpscsr2eqo9.jpg.html)
milled the fork that holds the axle,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3305_zpsgxudurji.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3305_zpsgxudurji.jpg.html)
turned a retaining ring for the fork, with a tapped hole for a set screw,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3306_zpsnw64lanv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3306_zpsnw64lanv.jpg.html)
turned the pin that hold the axle in the fork, and here's a peek under the cover-plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3307_zpsxs3wzmnw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3307_zpsxs3wzmnw.jpg.html)
so only have the axle, a couple of washers, and the hub covers left to do to wrap up the front wheel bits.
This is good, as my friend the mailman finally brought me the stock I've been waiting for to get back to the rear wheels!
Cheers, Joe
-
Very nice work, Joe. I am learning quite a bit from the wide variety of fabrications. Thanks for documenting it.
~Hans
-
You have made some good progress these last few days Joe. Nice pictures and documentation...its looking very nice!!!
Bill
-
Amazing work and progress Joe and is that the rollers you made of GHT'S design?
Don
-
Thanks guys.
Hans: I can't claim much credit for the fabrications, pretty much following the book as Mason wrote it.
Don: yes those rollers are GHT's design, they were last year's Christmas project (or was it the year before?).... still waiting for a nice day to
strip 'em down for a coat of paint. One of these years...
Joe
-
I just found this thread and have pulled up a chair.
Excellent write up on one of my favorite engines.
Tom
-
Thanks Tom. Must say that the further along I get, the more I like this engine, and I already liked it enough to start it!
chucked a piece of flat bar in the 4-jaw and turned a spigot on each end, this was then drilled and tapped for
a retaining screw. Moved over to the mill and made some angled cuts
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3310_zpsukdzbyxk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3310_zpsukdzbyxk.jpg.html)
hand filed some decorative chamfers on the edges, some straightforward turning to make the brass hub covers
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3311_zpsavwjc3vu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3311_zpsavwjc3vu.jpg.html)
and here it is all together.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3313_zpsppscoumg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3313_zpsppscoumg.jpg.html)
still have some cleanup to do on the axle, some filler to make the fillets where the axle meets the washer on the inside of the wheels,
but pretty much done!
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking good Joe, you have made fast progress over the last week or so. Don't forget the holes for the holes for the steering chain
-
Thanks Jason.
The holes are now drilled... thanks for the reminder. Enjoying an above-average amount of shop time just now,
once the snow is gone domestic duties will eat into that!
Joe
-
Well, started having at the nice bit of brass that came in last week.
Well hidden inside there are some rear-wheel hubs screaming to come out...
Set up in the mill to carve off some of the excess material
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3320_zpsw65hkpbm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3320_zpsw65hkpbm.jpg.html)
then mounted on the dividing head for a lot of passes to round it over, went with very small increments which leave me with next to
no clean up to do to remove the facets left by the indexing as they are really slight
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3321_zpse2riv0nx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3321_zpse2riv0nx.jpg.html)
changed to the other centre to mill the smaller radius
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3324_zpsfmnwwhgl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3324_zpsfmnwwhgl.jpg.html)
once that was done, still on the same centres started to mill out the inside of the hub. So far once around with an end cutting mill,
next will go around each side of this slot with a 1/8' ball nose cutter, taking off another 1/16' on each side bringing the slot to size,
and giving me a nice little radius at the root.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3325_zpsefjzcnie.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3325_zpsefjzcnie.jpg.html)
Once that's done, remount once again on the other centres, and finish off the slot milling.
However, that's for tomorrow, now it's coffee time
Joe
-
Made some progress with the wheels.
Went around the material with the ball nose cutter to finish off the slots
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3326_zpswvfbkxjj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3326_zpswvfbkxjj.jpg.html)
Then a lot of back and forthing, in the 4 jaw in the lathe to face the end, in the bandsaw to cut off, back in the 4 jaw to reface, cut off, turn some spigots, cut off, etc etc, then faced the cut sides and end up here:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3329_zpsbkgpbbxp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3329_zpsbkgpbbxp.jpg.html)
put the centre sections on the rotary table to mill the slots for the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3333_zpswmguetfa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3333_zpswmguetfa.jpg.html)
made up another jig to install the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3335_zpswdllhmpt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3335_zpswdllhmpt.jpg.html)
and here's one done ready for some rivets
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3337_zpsyzrs9oa9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3337_zpsyzrs9oa9.jpg.html)
Looks like a wheel now.
Cheers, Joe
-
Well, have hit one of those really enjoyable milestone moments in the project:
Soldered the hub bits together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3338_zpsjal4mfpn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3338_zpsjal4mfpn.jpg.html)
Got the rim turning true in the 4-jaw, finished boring the axle hole and ran the reamer through it,
and did the final facing of the hub
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3339_zpspfdcshty.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3339_zpspfdcshty.jpg.html)
and here we are, standing on our own 4 wheels:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3342_zpsjteyhmea.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3342_zpsjteyhmea.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3343_zpssidb8t1p.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3343_zpssidb8t1p.jpg.html)
I'll have to make another slightly shorter fork for the front axle, got a bit of an upwards tilt at the moment, but that won't take long,
meanwhile it sure is nice to see it on wheels!
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe that is looking great and to get it that far, you must be really getting excited. Looks like most of the major parts are done, so I gueess now is all the fiddly bits to do. I like...................... :praise2:
:drinking-41:
Don
-
Thanks Don. In terms of most of the engines we see here, I've just almost completed the base... now I can start building
the engine :Lol:
Joe
-
She looks really nice! You have a right to be proud!
This is a really interesting build Joe, thanks for sharing it with us.
Kim
-
Hi Joe, good to see it standing on its own wheels. Nice progress and beautiful to look at. I am sure, it will be a reliable runner at the end.
-
Looking good Joe
A slight upwards tilt is normal on both full size & model engines. If you look at the front on view on page 15 of the book you will see that the front wheels are about 3/32" below the rears when the boiler is level.
-
Thanks for showing your build Joe, I will need to start thinking about ordering the rings for my BB1 wheels after we have found a new foundry to do the cylinder castings for me.
I keep looking at the over 1000 rivets sitting there ready for making the wheels :paranoia:
Jo
-
Kim, Achim, Jason, & Jo: Thanks!
Jason: Thanks for that, very subtle on that drawing :hammerbash:
Jo: I enjoyed a certain economy of scale, only 236 rivets to the pair! (Oh dear... you've turned me into
a rivet counter :old:)
Joe
-
Joe, you have made some remarkable progress on the wheels and getting the base as you say ready for the engine work. Very nicely done and a beautiful model already!!
Bill
-
Looks like a traction engine Joe, nice to see it on wheels. And very nice wheels at that. Cheers, Hugh.
-
I have been watching this one as well as it has been "on the list" for a long time.
Keep up the good work.
Tom
-
Bill, Hugh, & Tom: a belated thanks! Sorry for not acknowledging you sooner :Doh:
Been spending a bit of time doing some catching up stuff, made the final hinge pin for the firebox door, ,made the locking pin for the gear selector,
broached some of the gears, made the retaining collars for two of the shafts.... did the hubcaps for the rear wheels...
then got to work on more of the rear axle stuff: Turned the driving centre,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3345_zpszczvamwo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3345_zpszczvamwo.jpg.html)
Then used it as a work holding spigot to turn the winding drum
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3347_zpsf2pkz2tu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3347_zpsf2pkz2tu.jpg.html)
as I turned both parts from the same bit of steel, I bushed the drum with some bronze, then faced it to size and bored the bushing
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3349_zpsfouzvh9m.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3349_zpsfouzvh9m.jpg.html)
here it is from the rear view
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3357_zpsxblszzfi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3357_zpsxblszzfi.jpg.html)
put the driving centre on the dividing head to cut the ratchet
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3351_zpspqjdloqn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3351_zpspqjdloqn.jpg.html)
a little hacksaw and file work to make the pawl, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3356_zpsttn8kgkr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3356_zpsttn8kgkr.jpg.html)
Now just have to find some steel wire rope to finish it off.
Cheers, Joe
-
I've used these people for wire rope and eyelets though I did make the eyes on the minnie.
http://www.tecni-cable.co.uk/Products/Galvanised-Wire-Rope-7x7-Flexible
-
Jason:
Gilbert states 1/2" to 3/4" as typical wire rope diameters used, so 1 mm to 1.5 mm seems to be where I need to go?
Thanks, Joe
(PS thanks for the link, my "Google-fu" was not turning up anything useful)
-
Long time since I did my minnie and the wire for that would have come from Reeves, measures 0.05" or 1.35mm. on the 2" Fowler I used 3mm stainless from Tecni-cable
-
Thanks Jason.
Think I'll get in some of the galvanized as well, in case the miniature stainless is as much of a pain to splice as the larger
sizes....
-
Carried on with turning the brake drum, turned one side, then trued it up in the small 4 jaw which was then held in the large 4 jaw,
as the jaws on the larger chuck would have destroyed the rim on the finished side. (My large 4 jaw is Number One on the I want to
replace this list)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3360_zpstf8stc1c.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3360_zpstf8stc1c.jpg.html)
Stuck all together on the axle blank just to have a look:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3362_zps9wcmxkg5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3362_zps9wcmxkg5.jpg.html)
Made up the drive pins, a little turning, filing, and silver soldered together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3363_zpspsr44qzq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3363_zpspsr44qzq.jpg.html)
and then trimmed the shaft to final length, milled some keyways, and assembled it all:
from the rear
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3365_zpsu3rcuhen.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3365_zpsu3rcuhen.jpg.html)
From the right
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3366_zpsvvmh8lrc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3366_zpsvvmh8lrc.jpg.html)
And from the other side:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3367_zpsdicpcsj9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3367_zpsdicpcsj9.jpg.html)
Only thing left to do with this is to install the wire rope once it arrives.
Time to shift to the front end and pick up where I left off with that end of things...
-
Turned some 12L14 to start the smokebox door ring
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3368_zps1guh4g73.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3368_zps1guh4g73.jpg.html)
once done everything i could do from that side, cut it off, flipped it around and finished the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3369_zpsb1yf2rxz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3369_zpsb1yf2rxz.jpg.html)
Turned a piece for the door, stepped off to form a curved face, filed and sanded out the machining marks after this photo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3370_zpsmubfy2vv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3370_zpsmubfy2vv.jpg.html)
drilling the rivet holes, happily a 0-80 screw neatly fits a 1/16" rivet hole to hold everything in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3371_zpsdze1cgjq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3371_zpsdze1cgjq.jpg.html)
fitting the door hinge
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3372_zpsi3lnztao.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3372_zpsi3lnztao.jpg.html)
did all the riveting, then drilled for the hinge pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3374_zpsjenbywj6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3374_zpsjenbywj6.jpg.html)
cleaned up the hinge, stuck in a temporary hinge pin, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3376_zpsizo97pea.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3376_zpsizo97pea.jpg.html)
Still have to turn the securing screw, and then, since the front axle and wheels are done, it on to the chimney.
Joe
-
The curve on the smoke box door came out nicely, did you do it by calculation, or did you just wing it? Hugh.
-
You have made some real headway since I check last Joe. I just catching up and love the way it's turning out. This one is on my list for sure so I am taking notes as you progress.
Don
-
Joe-
This continues to be a beautiful build. Outstanding.
-Bob
-
Hugh: Just winged it.... :lolb: the diameter and difference of thickness from edge to centre are by plan, but the curve is
entirely "TLAR"
Don : Thanks. Once you start one of these you will enjoy it. Just don't expect to finish in a hurry!
Bob: Thanks.
-
TLAR? I like it! Hugh.
-
Started machining the casting for the smokebox saddle, fussed around and got it running more or less true to turn the
chucking spigot
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3377_zps0stczs75.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3377_zps0stczs75.jpg.html)
set it up in the mill to shape the curved surface with the boring head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3378_zpsveefgwwa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3378_zpsveefgwwa.jpg.html)
put it back in the lathe to bore through, and then drilled a steam passage up from underneath, that meets a hole in from the face
of the web on the side of the casting. Here you see the nice plug silver soldered into place on the back of that web since I got a little enthusiastic and drilled right through instead of just meeting the passage up from the bottom..... :wallbang:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3380_zpsb67f5f5x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3380_zpsb67f5f5x.jpg.html)
made up the various little fittings for the blower (some obnoxious bronze stock here, pain to turn, broke two drill bits, good thing
there's only 3 more inches of it left...) starting with soldering up a tee
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3387_zpsy5htisyk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3387_zpsy5htisyk.jpg.html)
into the mill to reduce the arms to length and drill & tap, turned the various bushes & nuts, & the nozzle,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3389_zpsctlhvsnr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3389_zpsctlhvsnr.jpg.html)
and here it is testing for fit, after a lot of fettling of the casting
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3388_zpsnfdk3cl3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3388_zpsnfdk3cl3.jpg.html)
So, with this done, I can move on with attaching the smoke box to the boiler.
-
Got the smokebox temporarily positioned with some 0-80 screws, which let me work out the position of the cut-out for
the chimney
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3390_zpscxjnswak.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3390_zpscxjnswak.jpg.html)
Once that was done, hired the Mrs as a temporary shop assistant to help with riveting, saved me from making a lot of dodgy work holders
if I'd tried to do it on my own, remains to be seen just how much that is going to cost me :ROFL:
all riveted up, put in the blower ass'y
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3391_zps4o9xudpd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3391_zps4o9xudpd.jpg.html)
from above:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3392_zpsllv9y7oj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3392_zpsllv9y7oj.jpg.html)
side view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3393_zps7i0erqrb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3393_zps7i0erqrb.jpg.html)
Starting to turn the chimney:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3397_zpsjbt6d991.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3397_zpsjbt6d991.jpg.html)
and that's where it's got to so far.
Joe
-
Hi Joe, Of all the possible traction engine models to choose from that I hope to work on one day, the Minnie is the one I would build.
I have had the Minnie book sitting on my shelf since it was published picked up my copy in 1971 just 44 years ago. You are doing a great job on the build I will follow along now.
Mike
-
That's awesome Joe and I am still following you bud. 8)
Don
-
Mike: Glad to hear that you are not rashly rushing in to anything... Judging by the loco model in your build log, you won't have any problems
with the Minnie once you have had time to ponder it a bit! Thanks for looking in.
Thanks, Don.
moved along some more with the chimney: finished turning the outside taper, then drilled through with increasing sizes of
drills to prepare for boring the inside taper
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3398_zps1cucoi4u.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3398_zps1cucoi4u.jpg.html)
made up a former and bashed some copper for the chimney cap:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3401_zpsxded651t.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3401_zpsxded651t.jpg.html)
having formed the two bits of the cap, silver soldered them together, and started cleaning it up to dimension:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3402_zps2s3cw3js.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3402_zps2s3cw3js.jpg.html)
spent quite a bit of time getting one side of the chimney tube level to mill in a fake lap joint, and then drilled for purely decorative rivets:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3405_zpspgfh6b0u.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3405_zpspgfh6b0u.jpg.html)
a little clean up, bang in the rivets, press on the cap, and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3406_zpsek3tvh21.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3406_zpsek3tvh21.jpg.html)
The mailman brought me my order of steel wire today, so I'll be practicing splicing wire rope (last time I made an eye splice in some wire was
about 25 years ago...) and fill the cable reel once that's done. Should be fun :hammerbash: Ordered from the link Jason gave me, not to spendy, and
fast service, thanks for that.
Cheers, Joe
-
Thanks Joe, the chimney cap and chimney look great.
Mike
-
Very nice work Joe.
Dave
-
Thanks Joe, the chimney cap and chimney look great.
Mike
They sure do Joe...that chimney adds a whoel new dimension to the boiler as well as the overall model....lovely work!!
Bill
-
Coming along very nicely :praise2: :praise2: What's the machine/jig in the background of the chimney picture?
-
Thanks gents!
Roger: That's the tailstock and carriage of the Taig/Peatol lathe.
Joe
-
Shifted into rigger mode for a bit:
bent some rod, filed it in half and then filed a groove in it to make a thimble:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3409_zpsbhoxdndm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3409_zpsbhoxdndm.jpg.html)
Need a shackle to attach whatever to the cable, so started by drilling a bit of rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3410_zpsbbrzwmrf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3410_zpsbbrzwmrf.jpg.html)
bent a piece of smaller stuff, and silver soldered it into the first piece
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3411_zps3okkqlaq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3411_zps3okkqlaq.jpg.html)
opened up and shaped the eye with an awl
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3413_zpsivh0tcbo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3413_zpsivh0tcbo.jpg.html)
after filing off the ends of the eye and cleaning up the ends of the larger bit drilled through tapping size and half way clearance size
for the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3415_zpsn5rvmk5k.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3415_zpsn5rvmk5k.jpg.html)
cut out the centre of the large rod and did some filing to shape
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3417_zpskmxcyvjw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3417_zpskmxcyvjw.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3420_zpsyhbcfeql.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3420_zpsyhbcfeql.jpg.html)
This is getting long, so will go to another post....
-
Put a serving on the cable
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3423_zpsml4jcmal.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3423_zpsml4jcmal.jpg.html)
made a couple of tries to splice it in hand, after enough of that frustration made up a miniature rigger's vice and things went much better
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3424_zpsj2wgaxho.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3424_zpsj2wgaxho.jpg.html)
finished it off by serving over the splice, and here it is:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3427_zpshuwq5uh4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3427_zpshuwq5uh4.jpg.html)
now back to some metal bashing, started shaping the sides of the tender
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3428_zpsbfcv4x05.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3428_zpsbfcv4x05.jpg.html)
And that's all for now.
Joe
-
Hi Joe, nice work on the cable splice.
I have done a lot of work making miniature shackles over the last few years for my model boat rigging I am adding a picture that shows the sequence i use to make them, I used the same method as you drilling the holes for the pin, and have used both a threaded type pin and a ring type pin. there is a general shot showing a variety of sizes and types as well. the sequence is hopefully self explanatory, but I can add more information if you like.
Mike
-
Thanks Mike.
I really like that stropped block. I made up some internal-bound triple sheave ones a few years ago restoring an RCN WWII era
training aid (Teach you how to use Robinson's Disengaging Gear if you need to know how....)
had to make all the shackles and bottle screws as well, the thing had been pretty well picked over
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3429_zpss88qwt5v.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3429_zpss88qwt5v.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3430_zpsxlagfmxs.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3430_zpsxlagfmxs.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Wow! Joe that looks super. So my little photo sequence was a bit like taking "Coals to Newcastle"
mike
-
No problem Mike, always happy to see alternate ways of doing things. A lot (like all of them) of your shackles look a lot nicer than mine...
a little progress, got the water pocket done
some drilling, filing, and bending
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3431_zpspnjk58mg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3431_zpspnjk58mg.jpg.html)
These two bits were then soldered together, and filed to finish dimension.
The plans call for drilling the back plate and the cover with a No 65 drill for a hinge pin, since I've no drills smaller that No 60
I soldered a bit of 1/16" OD tube on each to act as the hinge barrel, worked out OK
here it is temporarily bolted to the tender side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3438_zpsrbrm1f5h.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3438_zpsrbrm1f5h.jpg.html)
Joe
-
getting a little further along:
put a piece of flat brass on the mill to start making some tread plate: handily, have a 5 flute countersink
that was just right to use as a cutter
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3487_zpsqkqyw5yy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3487_zpsqkqyw5yy.jpg.html)
shifted the piece 60 degrees and cut the other direction:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3488_zpsxjfvyigy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3488_zpsxjfvyigy.jpg.html)
cutout the pieces needed, and soldered on some flat stock as a bracket: bedded the parts in a little clump of modelling clay
as a work holder for soldering, worked just fine
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3489_zpseka4oehp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3489_zpseka4oehp.jpg.html)
some filing, drilled the rivet holes, and bolted in place to have a look:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3491_zpsyx9sy3vh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3491_zpsyx9sy3vh.jpg.html)
some straightforward hacksawing, drilling, and filing to make up the drawstraps and re-enforcing straps
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3495_zpsngrlv8m0.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3495_zpsngrlv8m0.jpg.html)
and where they live:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3496_zpsezxqil9l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3496_zpsezxqil9l.jpg.html)
now back to painting some waterproofing onto the back deck of the house....
-
Moving right along Joe ... LOVE the tread plate work.
Tom
-
I got caught up in this fantastic thread (love the detail!) and found myself reading from the beginning.
Particularly interesting after going to the Rough & Tumble Museum and seeing several traction engines in action.
Thanks for showing the 'how'. Lots of good info that, for now, I can only dream about using someday.
Found this too...
Zee: Long time no post...
Working on it. ;D
-
Hi Joe, I am still quitely following along. I like the steps.
-
The tread plate turned out very well Joe. Another wonderful detail for Minnie!!
Bill
-
Thanks for looking in guys. I appreciate the kind comments.
Joe
-
I've been making some progress, but been neglecting to post it...
making some bolts for the cable fairlead, using the filing rest to create the hex head:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3504_zpsmophxhn9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3504_zpsmophxhn9.jpg.html)
straightforward filing and drilling to make the angles, simple turning to make the rollers, and looks like this:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3506_zpsgqvk7wlm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3506_zpsgqvk7wlm.jpg.html)
Ground a tool to make the ring fitting for the water-feed banjo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3507_zps8u4yu5t9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3507_zps8u4yu5t9.jpg.html)
test for fit after riveting in the floor plate
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3508_zpsjzm4qaup.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3508_zpsjzm4qaup.jpg.html)
partway through riveting the outer shell
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3511_zpsqrf8o4hb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3511_zpsqrf8o4hb.jpg.html)
adding the drawstraps, and the water fitting is soldered on the bottom
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3553_zpscha5uijc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3553_zpscha5uijc.jpg.html)
fairlead installed
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3555_zps6eubcb5x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3555_zps6eubcb5x.jpg.html)
all around cleanup, and a good coat of self-etching primer and lots of re-assembly:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3556_zpswmwezisr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3556_zpswmwezisr.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3557_zpscizeyzh5.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3557_zpscizeyzh5.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN3558_zpshooecjfa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN3558_zpshooecjfa.jpg.html)
And that's going to be it for quite a while, I've got 2 weeks left before I leave town for work until September...
I'm pretty happy with this winter's progress!
Joe
-
Very nice Joe!
You have been making great progress.
Dave
-
Wow Joe! That's looking awesome and your doing some fine work. I bought the book by the way because this one is on my list. So I taking notes as you progress. Great work.......... :praise2:
Don
-
Looks very nice Joe, I also have the the book because it is also on my list.
Mike
-
Hi Joe that is looking very nice. A big step forwards.
-
Thanks, guys. Don & Mike: Once you start it, you'll enjoy it :ThumbsUp: This has been an interesting project so far!
-
Joe, your Minnie is looking great! I've found your thread quite inspirational. I had been looking for the book on the Minnie TE, but its out of print and quite expensive for the few copies I've found available. So I'm seriously looking at Rudy's Model Steam Tractor. That book is much more available and far less expensive. Looks similar-ish, but smaller I think.
Thanks for taking the time to post your updates. I've really been enjoying them.
Kim
-
Joe, I am still quietly watching and admiring all your fine work on the Minnie. A fine and well documented project!!
Bill
-
Still following along and enjoying :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
-
Thanks for the kind comments guys, much appreciated!
Kim: I've got the book for Rudy's tractor too, almost made it to the top of the list....just might build one one of these days.
If you do a search over on the HMEM site, a fellow over there did a really nice job of one a few years
back, with a pretty detailed build log as I recall.
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe,
Have just read all way through this build log. You've done a fantastic job. :cheers: I have a Minnie to finish off, but I cheated I'm afraid. I've bought an almost completed one that has been through several sets of hands but never completed. It needs a complete strip. It has been partially painted but only with ordinary cellulose spray paint. I'm not sure how this will perform when the boiler is eventually fired. I think I will have to strip back to bare metal and use some form of heatproof paint (I am open to suggestions as to what would be the best paint to use). I have various bits I need to make for it. Cable fairleads, ash pad and damper, blowdown pipework, water sight glass required along with some fittings, oil feed pipe and oil tank lid, water pressure gauge. I have to trawl through all the bits I received with it and see what else might be missing.
I will watch the rest of your build with great interest and hopefully glean a few tips.
Thank you.
Colin
-
Colin
Thanks for the kind comment! I look forward to seeing yours, do post your progress
once you get stuck into it.
Cheers, Joe
-
Well, took a month longer than anticipated, but I'm now back at it!
Starting what will be a lot of operations on the cylinder block casting, a quick run over in the mill to create
one flat face to build from for all the various ops:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4795_zpsk8kpx8jr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4795_zpsk8kpx8jr.jpg.html)
That done, into the lathe to bore the hole for the cylinder liner:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4796_zpsgncpjcyx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4796_zpsgncpjcyx.jpg.html)
Using the bore to locate the casting, machined the valve face almost to finished dimension, leaving a little meat for last minute adjustments
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4797_zpsy9srtaye.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4797_zpsy9srtaye.jpg.html)
That gave me a reference face for the vise so I could cut the curved surface that sits on the barrel of the boiler. I used a freshly sharpened HSS tool
in a fly cutter, this casting machines like a dream! Had an off-cut of the boiler material to use to check for fit...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4798_zpskxtyudak.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4798_zpskxtyudak.jpg.html)
Lots more to go on this bit.
-
Nice work, Joe, and good to see an update. Cheers, Hugh.
-
Thanks Hugh. It's good to be back at it.
-
Hi Joe, good to see you back on it.
-
Hi Joe,
Glad to see you back in the shop. I'm looking forward to following more of your progress on your Minnie!
Kim
-
Achim, Kim Thanks for looking in
It's good to back in the shop.
JOe
-
After cutting the saddle, finished bringing the various faces of the cylinder down to size as they are referenced from the
inside of the arc of the saddle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4800_zpshzq2goqm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4800_zpshzq2goqm.jpg.html)
Still have to bring the outside of the saddle down to dimension, and the rounded over outside of the cylinder, but this is purely cosmetic
and will wait until I've drilled and milled all the various ports and passages which is next
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4801_zpswmprphhj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4801_zpswmprphhj.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Nice bit of machine work Joe that really turned out great. Glad to see you back on this again. Still following you bud.
:popcorn:
Don
-
Thanks Don!
In between some honey-do stuff and a quick trip south to Vermont for the American Precision Museum show, have got a little further on....
Milling the steam ports: drilled them out undersized, and them milled them out with a carbide PCB drill that happened to be the required size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4803_zpsdgedfevn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4803_zpsdgedfevn.jpg.html)
the exhaust port was easier, a stock size of cutter, and then drilled a steam passage
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4804_zpsy7uevmhv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4804_zpsy7uevmhv.jpg.html)
Milled the pocket on the underside that acts as the "steam dome"
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4805_zpsgzcr54rd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4805_zpsgzcr54rd.jpg.html)
a couple more steam passages
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4806_zpssbporwsm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4806_zpssbporwsm.jpg.html)
Brought the outside of the saddle almost to size with some free-hand dial twiddling, cleaned it up afterwards with some filing, then
mounted it on a mandrel on the dividing head to bring the curved portion of the cylinder down to size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4845_zpsjypl8u7l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4845_zpsjypl8u7l.jpg.html)
a little cleaning up, and here we are
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4846_zpsrp4ad9ug.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4846_zpsrp4ad9ug.jpg.html)
So far so good, just have to make and install the liner for the cylinder, and then a bunch of studs for various bits that get attached....
Joe
-
Hi Joe, nice progress, I am still following along.
-
Thanks, Achim.
Got the liner done,
Turned and bored:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4850_zpssy8hak68.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4850_zpssy8hak68.jpg.html)
Sawed it off the parent stock, and soldered it into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4851_zpsoq2ul33x.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4851_zpsoq2ul33x.jpg.html)
milled the ends down to final size, and then drilled the steam passages, used a centre-cutting end mill to start the holes, then followed up
with the drill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4853_zpsmxcis0jm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4853_zpsmxcis0jm.jpg.html)
Then called it a night....
-
moving along, turned the cylinder covers, the front one is rather simple
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4855_zps6kn5ko4l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4855_zps6kn5ko4l.jpg.html)
The rear one is a bit more complex, as it has a stand-off flange for the piston-rod gland: got carried away machining, so only a final
"as done" photo
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4857_zps48motqbz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4857_zps48motqbz.jpg.html)
Turned blanks for the valve and regulator glands
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4856_zpsgqfz6ixr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4856_zpsgqfz6ixr.jpg.html)
Spent some time fly-cutting some brass to dimension for the valve chest and regulator chest, started machining the valve chest
by doing some layout, drilling the holes for the studs tapping size to use as a template for drilling them in the block, and
milled out the centre
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4859_zpstctztqfz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4859_zpstctztqfz.jpg.html)
Turned the outside dimension of the gland boss, and then drilled and tapped the gland in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4861_zps82dy72jy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4861_zps82dy72jy.jpg.html)
installed the gland, chucked the whole thing off-set in the 4 jaw to finish turning the boss and the gland as one, did one side, flipped it over to do the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4863_zpstgirtngu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4863_zpstgirtngu.jpg.html)
Spotted the tapping holes through the chest, drilled and tapped them in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4864_zps4bhu03cc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4864_zps4bhu03cc.jpg.html)
And here it is mocked up with some bolts I had handy, studs and nuts will be fitted....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4865_zpsm9rccuqb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4865_zpsm9rccuqb.jpg.html)
And here's where it's sitting in a little pot of alum solution to rot out the tap I broke off in the last hole....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4866_zpsrblpkzhc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4866_zpsrblpkzhc.jpg.html)
Decided that it was time to quit for the day at this point!
-
Ah! bad luck.
I'm enjoying the thread- just got some laser cut spokes. I'd thought I'd start with the wheels and get the tedium over first.
Cheers,
Rod
-
Bad luck on the tap Joe but it 's looking great. Did you soft solder or silver solder the liner?
Don
-
Rod & Don, Thanks for the commiserations... not the first, and won't be the last....
I soft-soldered the liner, Mechanically it is held from moving fore & aft by the cylinder covers
which well overlap the joint, and that way didn't have to bring that whole chunk of metal
up to brazing temperature.
Incidentally, the alum did it's thing, now have a perfectly serviceable threaded hole for a stud.
Joe
-
That's good new on getting the broken tap out. Sure beats having to remake a part even if the process is rather slow. Still following alone even if quietly here.
Bill
-
Thanks Bill. Good thing about the alum process is the lack of supervision required!
Topped up the water level every couple of hours, turned the heat off overnight, by breakfast it was done.
Carried on with the regulator chest, just the steam chest all over again with minor dimension differences...
set it up in the 4 jaw to turn the boss for the gland
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4868_zpsknvi2eyu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4868_zpsknvi2eyu.jpg.html)
flipped it end for end to do a boss that will capture the end of the regulator rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4867_zps6arjywgy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4867_zps6arjywgy.jpg.html)
Once the middle was milled out, used the tap-drill size holes I had drilled in it to locate the holes in the casting, spot, drill, de-burr, tap, open up
the hole in the chest, install, repeat for the next hole...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4870_zpsqeqnf9df.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4870_zpsqeqnf9df.jpg.html)
Worked out fine, managed to not break any taps this time... and here's the family photo.. with the flashy recess milled
into the valve chest cover just for the look of it....
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4871_zps7th8vzxh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4871_zps7th8vzxh.jpg.html)
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe you mentioned casting, I thought you had machined the part from bar stock. Am I wrong on this? Nice work by the way......... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
-
Thanks Don.
The cylinder is a casting, the various bits that bolt on are bar stock. Now that I've done
it, I can see that fabricating it from bar stock would not be too hard at all.
Joe
-
Hi Joe, good to see that the alaun did it well for you. For me it is good to know that it works with brass also. Thanks for the confirmation. First and only one I did it in alumiumum so far.
-
this is an amazing thread, from the beginning to now, at each phase of the built, there is something to learn !
thanks very much for sharing....
-
Hi Achim
The only caveat is that it leaves a "well weathered" finish on the brass... useful I suppose if
you want to create instant patina...
Zephyrin: Merci, vos commentaires sont tres gentil!
Joe
-
Some fairly slow progress, making studs for all the stuff that hangs on the cylinder....
Small stuff, so went to the Taig lathe. My version has the original Taig collets, a very small selection of sizes...
but, blanks are available so drilled one through the size of the studs, cut it by eye with a jeweler's saw...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4877_zpsqnllso2o.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4877_zpsqnllso2o.jpg.html)
Then a lot of threading, flip, thread some more and all done: both steam chests, and enough + a couple spare
for the cylinder covers...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4878_zpsnf0amtke.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4878_zpsnf0amtke.jpg.html)
They are all faintly over long, I'll trim them down to final size once i have the nuts (I've ordered some commercial ones, if I don't like how they look
then I'll have to make some...)
Joe
-
Well, still making some progress, albeit slowly...(been busy drooling over my birthday present to myself, a nice set of castings for a 1/8 Rider Ericsson are now hiding under my workbench)
milling out the piece that forms the pocket of the valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4896_zps9yqlw3ts.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4896_zps9yqlw3ts.jpg.html)
And then saw it off of the parent stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4897_zpswoptav2p.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4897_zpswoptav2p.jpg.html)
a bit of round stock gets silver soldered to that, with a little lug that the valve rod screws into
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4898_zpsaan08o5z.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4898_zpsaan08o5z.jpg.html)
And in it's place:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4899_zpstj55deow.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4899_zpstj55deow.jpg.html)
Then more fasteners, need some bronze capscrews to fasten the cylinder to the boiler, so to work: turn down the end and thread with a die
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4902_zpshv2nxd6n.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4902_zpshv2nxd6n.jpg.html)
turn some more to just over the overall size of the hex head, move the chuck to the indexing head on the mill and cut the hex head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4903_zpsj4ch73sr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4903_zpsj4ch73sr.jpg.html)
move it back to the lathe and part off
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4904_zpshnm5enll.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4904_zpshnm5enll.jpg.html)
and then in the collet I used for the studs, locked the carriage, and faced them all to the same size
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4907_zpsnzaxyapi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4907_zpsnzaxyapi.jpg.html)
Only needed to make 20, sure seemed to take a lot of time for such a small amount...
Cheers, Joe
-
well, still beavering away...
some straight-forward turning, drilling, and filing to make up the bits for the safety valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4914_zps2xw1nuvv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4914_zps2xw1nuvv.jpg.html)
Silver soldered it all together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4917_zpsodwiokcz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4917_zpsodwiokcz.jpg.html)
here's the rest of the bits, I'll need to replace the spring, the current one out of the junk box is just a place-holder
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4918_zpsn8lwgwpt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4918_zpsn8lwgwpt.jpg.html)
and sitting where it belongs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4921_zpsogmp0pfp.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4921_zpsogmp0pfp.jpg.html)
Happily, had an off-cut of steel just the right diameter to use as a work-holder for drilling the mounting holes at the correct angles
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4923_zpsgm9zfcrl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4923_zpsgm9zfcrl.jpg.html)
bolted into place all the various bits, and trimmed the studs (still a little over long, final trimming will depend on the thickness of the gaskets)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4924_zpshqs8tvk7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4924_zpshqs8tvk7.jpg.html)
And after a bunch of dis-assembly of the bits that will be in the way while installing the cylinder, here it is just sitting where it will go
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4929_zpsryzyglu6.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4929_zpsryzyglu6.jpg.html)
Really starting to feel like the end is getting near now...
Joe
-
I've been reading along as you build, Joe. That's some wonderful work you're doing. That cylinder and all the parts are
quite a piece of work. A lot of function in a funny shape! I'll be waiting for more. :wine1:
Pete
-
Awesome Joe just awesome. I some how missed a post and just caught up. She's starting to really take shape and i........like.......... :praise2:
Don
-
Very nice work Joe. This is going to be fine model!!
Bill
-
Pete, Don, Bill...
Thanks for looking in, and the kind words.
Joe
-
Hi Joe, some tiny bits and pieces for the valve. Seeing all together in your preassembly, than it will be clear, a facinating model is taking shape.
-
Thanks, Achim.
Carved the motion plate saddle out of a bit of brass from the "come in handy" pile...
Nearly all rotary table work: this is ready for the final pass with a ball-end cutter to make a nice fillet, then flipped it over and did the same thing to the other side
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4930_zpsakusd1d4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4930_zpsakusd1d4.jpg.html)
Used the wood cradle to hold the boiler for drilling the mounting holes for both the saddle and the cylinder in the drill press
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4932_zps1qh5f7b8.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4932_zps1qh5f7b8.jpg.html)
and here they are bolted down in place.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4934_zpsgayag46j.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4934_zpsgayag46j.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Nice work Joe! I continue to enjoy following your work here.
I don't know if I've mentioned this or not, but your Minnie build is one of the things that inspired me to take on a traction engine project. So, thanks for sharing!
Kim
-
Thanks, Kim.
It's seems it's a bit of "goes around comes around", following another guy's build of
Rudy's tractor is pretty much what finally got me off my behind to start this one... :ROFL:
Your project is certainly coming along nicely,
Joe
-
got going on the connecting rod and it's various bits...
Turned the rod, put a purely eye-ball taper on it:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4937_zps94dqbpgt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4937_zps94dqbpgt.jpg.html)
cut out the strap for the big end
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4942_zpscrg91qje.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4942_zpscrg91qje.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded some brass for the oiler, then drilled it through
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4938_zps7venhj9y.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4938_zps7venhj9y.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled and tapped the oiler cap, then knurled it and parted it off
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4941_zpsfhy78uqu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4941_zpsfhy78uqu.jpg.html)
Here's all the bits, neglected to take any photos of building up the cross-head, it's 2 plates of steel soldered onto a central bit that has a relief for the small end of the con rod, with a turned, threaded, and hardened pin of drill rod, and straight-forward turning for the bearing bronzes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4943_zps3pvmhb4i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4943_zps3pvmhb4i.jpg.html)
and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4944_zps0bg4fptx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4944_zps0bg4fptx.jpg.html)
Joe
-
It's comming along well Joe. If you are going to expect the engine to do any work you may want to change those two brass bolts to "fitted" steel ones
J
-
You're making great progress Joe. Sometimes it's the little bits that take the most time.
gbritnell
-
Still with you Joe and any progress is better then none. I know about those fiddly bits and how they can slow you down. .......... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Hi joe
The connecting rod looks really good, long way to go before mine starts taking shape like yours , I would be very happy if mine looks like yours later on in the build.
Mal.
-
Jason, George, Don, & Mal:
Thanks for looking in guys.
And, thanks for the tip re the bolts, Jason, will change them out once I've got in some more hex steel....
Joe
-
Started working on the bits for the reversing gear...
Mounted a bit of O1 steel on the rotary table to mill all the arcs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4948_zpsshymqcp4.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4948_zpsshymqcp4.jpg.html)
once done that, just hack-sawed them out, and cleaned them up with some filing, using the ancient hand vice to hold the
die block for clean up before hardening it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4950_zpss6mswfh3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4950_zpss6mswfh3.jpg.html)
pre-drilled a number of stubs of round stock and then silver soldered them into strips of flat stuff to make the various links,
turned the clevis for the valve rod, milled the slot in it and used some filing buttons to round over the end, and turned & drilled a bronze
bushing for it, and here's the family shot:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4961_zps6iwtdl3o.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4961_zps6iwtdl3o.jpg.html)
and here is the test installation
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4969_zpsesnghcct.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4969_zpsesnghcct.jpg.html)
dug out a stub of CI from the left-overs pile, and turned the eccentric sheaves, here is clocking in for the off centre hole for the shaft
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4963_zpsc7ln5xtz.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4963_zpsc7ln5xtz.jpg.html)
parted off, cleaned up, and drilled & tapped for the set screw
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4964_zpsloio9oqy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4964_zpsloio9oqy.jpg.html)
and a start on the eccentric straps: sliced a bit of steel, drilled for bolts on each side, then in the lathe to bore the hole,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4967_zpsw9ei9ko2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4967_zpsw9ei9ko2.jpg.html)
and starting to file off all the material that doesn't look like an eccentric strap
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4968_zpscimqzhaq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4968_zpscimqzhaq.jpg.html)
Neither of my boys was here for the holidays this year, so I'm getting a useful amount of shop time instead...
-
Hi Joe
The parts are looking good, you seam to be progressing very quickly .
Mal.
-
Hi Joe, some nice tiny bits and pieces. I am still following along.
-
Happy to catch up this again. Very interesting thread.
Regarding the reversing gear...what's the reason for hardening them?
-
Mal, Achim.. Thanks for looking in!
Zee: Good to see you back! Only the die block (to be clear, the little bit that slides up and down inside the arc of the expansion link)
is hardened. Presumably to both reduce wear on a pretty small part, and to avoid galling that would probably occur
by having both parts made of the same material.
Joe
-
In-between bouts of snow shoveling, got the eccentric stuff finished...
silver soldered a lump on the end to make the clevis
some filing and rounding over, and one of them riveted in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4970_zpse8ss0yxn.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4970_zpse8ss0yxn.jpg.html)
after a little cleaning up, here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4971_zpsgzs2tszs.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4971_zpsgzs2tszs.jpg.html)
and from another angle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4973_zpsoysldfno.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4973_zpsoysldfno.jpg.html)
Things are moving along at a pretty good clip just now!
Joe
-
Nice progress Joe, and some nice looking bits to show for your efforts.
Bill
-
please could you tell us more about this ruler as it looks like it is calibrated zero from the middle cool item where did you get it...........Good work going on here, i like all the hand filing Thanks
Regards
Willy.
-
No idea where you are ... S G Willy ?? [ Why are people so cagey ? At least what country would help .. ]
I have one from here, [ assuming UK ]:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-centre-rules-ax21755
Dave
-
Thanks, Bill.
Willy: Dave has it right, although as I'm in Canada mine came from here: http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=32572&cat=1,43513
Sold as a wood working tool, but comes in handy in the machine shop too.
As to the filing, I have noticed that you like to use your files... as do I. Mind you, if I NEED flat & square,
it's off to the mill I go.
Joe
-
Hi Joe,
Nice work on the reversing mechanism and eccentric. You certainly are making great progress!
Kim
-
Looking good Joe glad to see you moving right along with these little parts. The reversing link looks great..... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
No idea where you are ... S G Willy ?? [ Why are people so cagey ? At least what country would help .. ]
I have one from here, [ assuming UK ]:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-centre-rules-ax21755
Dave
Hi Dave, willy here Thanks for that, one is now in the post for me !! I live in Norwich,Norfolk UK. I have never in my 67 years seen one like that!!
Thanks for sharing.
willbert
-
working on the reverse/forward lever. Pretty much all cut and file from thin gauge steel...
with a little bit of soldering to stick some of the parts together
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4981_zpsiqjjeo4w.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4981_zpsiqjjeo4w.jpg.html)
some more of the bits
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4982_zpsl4wf4wtk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4982_zpsl4wf4wtk.jpg.html)
and where it goes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4984_zpsjuovtwsi.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4984_zpsjuovtwsi.jpg.html)
Joe
-
...and again tiny bits and pieces. Looking nice.
-
Still following and enjoying :wine1:
-
Lovely work Joe, I think I should be doing something like this instead of a 4inch scale compound Burrell. Everything is so big and heavy. On the other hand, my eyes and clumsy fingers may not cope with such tiny parts. Keep posting, I'm hooked. Terry
-
That's pretty cool! A functional reversing lever for your Minnie! And it looks great! :ThumbsUp:
The 3/4" TE I'm building only has a fake reversing lever. I may have to build a Minnie someday too! If only the book weren't out of print... :-\
I'm really enjoying following your build Joe. :popcorn:
Kim
-
Beautifully done Joe, outstanding work on the reversing lever and the rest looks great also......... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
I will second those comments Joe, lovely work on the reversing lever and assembly.
Bill
-
Well thanks for all the nice words, guys.
Keep it up and I'll get a swelled head.... seriously, as any of you who post your
works in progress know, it's very nice indeed to have folks drop in a line,
feels a little less like working in a vacuum. Advice and commentary on method
are always good too.
Thanks again, Joe
-
Hi all....
Started work on the steering gear, turning the drum for the steering chains. I have a bolt-on chuck,
so I can run the lathe in reverse to use the ball-end mill "upside down" to make the curve on the right end of the stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg.html)
Once the other end was done, parted it off and moved to the taig lathe to finish it off, the steady on the big lathe is way too big for this job
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4987_zpszhsyr3vy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4987_zpszhsyr3vy.jpg.html)
Moved to the mill to cross-drill for the chain bolts, and milled a flat for the nuts, you can see one of the mounting brackets, straitforward
drilling and filing, with a bronze bushing soldered in, and the worm with it's shaft which will be locked in place by the eyebolt
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4988_zpsahv3yjer.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4988_zpsahv3yjer.jpg.html)
here it is with the chains rigged
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4991_zpsgngxjyiw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4991_zpsgngxjyiw.jpg.html)
and here with the steering shaft installed
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4993_zpstiw88aqd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4993_zpstiw88aqd.jpg.html)
Sad to say that the worm and wheel which are some of the very few parts I've bought ready made, do not in fact mesh...seems to be a slight difference in pitch. So, will have to replace them, or learn to cut my own....
Cheers, Joe
-
Joe, the steering mechanism is looking great! Too bad about the gears not being right though. That's disappointing :(
Kim
-
That's a real good looking unit, Joe. As for the worm gearing, those are about the easiest of all the gears to cut. Do a little
searching here and you can find lots of threads on cutting them.
Pete
-
Excellent progress......I wish I could turn mine upside down! Terry
-
Thanks Kim. Pete: I've been reading... stay tuned.... Terry: You need a "rotisserie" like the car rebuilders use
Finishing off the steering business, need a steering wheel...
Some faceplate turning:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4994_zpslfrpxacx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4994_zpslfrpxacx.jpg.html)
off the faceplate, cut out the bits that don't look like spokes, soldered in a small piece of round stock
to act as the boss for a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4995_zpsu6xq5r4s.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4995_zpsu6xq5r4s.jpg.html)
Hacksawed off the greater part of the excess on the outside of the rim, mounted the wheel on a little stub of rod threaded to
fit, into a collet on the taig lathe and a lot of very small cuts to true it up
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4996_zpse1mmiqmm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4996_zpse1mmiqmm.jpg.html)
a quick little bit of turning and threading for the handle, and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4997_zps8wjqku4k.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4997_zps8wjqku4k.jpg.html)
Moved on to the blower valve, turned a bit of bronze to size, threaded the outside for the bonnet, drilled and tapped it for the spindle,
and moved to the mill to cross-drill for the inlet and outlet while still on the parent material
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5001_zpskv4wvewa.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5001_zpskv4wvewa.jpg.html)
Cut it off, and put it in a collet to trim to size and drill it out for the insert with the various passages required
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5002_zpsvkcxtnie.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5002_zpsvkcxtnie.jpg.html)
Having neglected to take any pictures of the inserted bit, here it is with the insert and the inlet/outlet pipes (simple turnings, threaded
and through drilled) silver soldered in place, and the bonnet nut, the spindle turned from some stainless, and the handwheel & nut
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5003_zps8jb0txsy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5003_zps8jb0txsy.jpg.html)
Those of you familiar with the "words and music" as written by Mason will recognize that I'm really going back and forth with
regards to the order of construction here, simply a question that I tended to skip ahead when missing the material for various bits.
I've now received what should be the LAST order of material for the project, so am catching up... will now go to the valve & piston rods, a piston, and then we'll be in the happy position of running the first test on air!
Joe
-
Hi all....
Started work on the steering gear, turning the drum for the steering chains. I have a bolt-on chuck,
so I can run the lathe in reverse to use the ball-end mill "upside down" to make the curve on the right end of the stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN4986_zpsm8jsojza.jpg.html)
Neat trick to use an endmill in the lathe to cut that radius. I'll have to keep that in the memory bank for later...
What I did to make a similar part was put the blank in a spin indexer in the mill. Then use a plain endmill. Advance in, and rotate the piece 360 slowly by hand. Do both ends, and the put the piece in the lathe to machine of the "middle". Your way seems much easier...
-
Love the way the hand wheel turned out Joe and the rest is turning out great. Sorry I had missed one of your post but am caught up now. I don't want to miss any.
-
Very impressive Joe! Sorry about the gears but you will get that sorted out soon I am sure.
Bill
-
Nice work joe that hand wheel looks really good ,cant wait to hear the Minnie run on air.
Mal
-
I have to say that I too love the way it turned out. And also the technique you used! That is an impressive style you have. Looking forward to more!
Ronald
-
I had noticed the handwheel too. Looks great.
Takes extra skill to accomplish that in my mind.
-
Bouch: We all find some way to get there, your solution had not occurred to me!
Don, Bill, Mal, ReFlad, and certainly not least Zee: thanks guys.
made up the rod for the valve ... just a question of threading it on each end with a lock nut
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5005_zpsltgjnfwq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5005_zpsltgjnfwq.jpg.html)
and installed it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5006_zpszmczc7la.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5006_zpszmczc7la.jpg.html)
and then 2 pieces for the regulator
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5007_zpsxdgdd30h.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5007_zpsxdgdd30h.jpg.html)
fitted up the crosshead guide bars, simply some flat stock with a threaded bit on one end to fit into the flange on the cylinder head
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5004_zpsy84bppn3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5004_zpsy84bppn3.jpg.html)
Turned the piston from cast iron, I've grooved it for some piston rings as somehow I neglected to get the correct size
of O ring (can always go back and redo if I don't like how it works with the rings)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5009_zpsjd3nxvln.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5009_zpsjd3nxvln.jpg.html)
turned and parted off some rings
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5010_zpsgijl1nj3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5010_zpsgijl1nj3.jpg.html)
The piston rod is just a bit of Stainless threaded on both ends, here's the family shot: (With some steel fasteners now, thanks for the tip Jason)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5011_zpsx4vjvgaw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5011_zpsx4vjvgaw.jpg.html)
and where it belongs:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5013_zpsdsqafauv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5013_zpsdsqafauv.jpg.html)
Chasing down a little binding with the crosshead, once I've got that sorted out, have to make up a temporary inlet fitting and fire up the compressor !
cheers, Joe
-
once I've got that sorted out, have to make up a temporary inlet fitting and fire up the compressor !
:whoohoo:
-
Really nice parts, especially that steering wheel.
Vince
-
Great work Joe! You're really moving along. You'll find the bind, I'm sure.
Do we get a video when you get it running on air? :)
Really enjoying your build, thanks for sharing.
Kim
-
Great work Joe ,like Kim said nice vid of it running would be good.
Mal.
-
Great work Joe ,like Kim said nice vid of it running would be good.
Mal.
Yup! I second that on the video and glad to see you moving forward Joe. She's still looking great to me.....
Don
-
Hi Joe, it's a pleasure to watch.
-
Thanks guys. I will give you a teaser, had it all together with my new bodged-up air line connector and it ALMOST
turned over.... of course, this was the lazy-man's effort with out a number of reasonably important gaskets
and minor things like piston rings....shouldn't be long now.
Cheers, Joe
-
:whoohoo: :whoohoo: We have a RUNNER!
After a fair bit of mucking around with valve settings and leaking gaskets,
it works...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4Ox43BPvHU
It's all downhill from here... once I stop grinning enough to get back to work.
Cheers, Joe
-
Awesome Joe, don't worry we'll do the grinning for you...... ;D
8)
Don
-
Congratulations on getting it to run! :ThumbsUp:
The only sad pat is that I can't see the video. It says the account isn't there any more :(
But it's great to hear that it runs!
Kim
-
Hi Joe, congratulations for the first running of your engine. Unfortunatly I can't see the video, same as Kim already mentioned.
-
I see the video just fine, and it's great to see a first run. Especially one that's so good right off!!
:cartwheel: :praise2:
Pete
-
once I stop grinning enough
I've known that grin. Feels good!
Congrats! :ThumbsUp:
-
Thanks guys. The video appears to be back, You tube closed the feed, when I e-mailed to ask WTF? they didn't answer,
but it's back...
Who knows how they work?
Joe
-
Good job Joe, you must be well pleased all that work and it comes to life .
-
Just saw this today Joe....it lives....it lives !!!! Well done.
Bill
-
Video is visible now, also the wobbling fly wheel.
-
It lives.
Vince
-
Yes! I can see it now! What a wonderful, exciting feeling to see your engine run for the first time! Congratulations, Joe! :cartwheel:
Kim
-
Thanks guys, Achim: you have noticed that minor wobble :ROFL:
The bore through the flywheel may be several thou larger than the shaft it rides on :lolb:
A shim or two for final assembly..
Joe
-
Dug out the casting for the boiler feed pump that has been gently maturing on the workbench
for a couple of years now.
A couple of passes with a fly-cutter to start squaring up the sides
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5020_zps9mdkvujh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5020_zps9mdkvujh.jpg.html)
once done, flipped it over and did the other side, then cleaned up the face of the flange for the pump ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5022_zpsq1ryosbg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5022_zpsq1ryosbg.jpg.html)
Cleaned up the top face with an end mill, and drilled several through holes for various water passages. While there, drilled and reamed for the ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5028_zpsunqksh7m.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5028_zpsunqksh7m.jpg.html)
You can see where the pattern maker
lost track of the idea that the boss on the bottom of the casting SHOULD be in line with the flanged bit...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5026_zpsrgqmsqqv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5026_zpsrgqmsqqv.jpg.html)
So, cut off the boss, which at least let me use a flycutter to clean up the bottom face, counter bored the hole
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5027_zpsiag1yr61.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5027_zpsiag1yr61.jpg.html)
Turned, drilled, tapped a bit of bronze,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5031_zpsyzdc8lou.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5031_zpsyzdc8lou.jpg.html)
and silver soldered it in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5032_zpsxakpubeo.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5032_zpsxakpubeo.jpg.html)
It's been in the pickle overnight, so will get back at it later today.
Cheers, Joe
-
Looking good Joe and nice to see it running.
You and anyone else making a Minnie may find this useful, its a 3D PDF of a Minnie that you can move about and zoom in on that was posted yesterday on ME Site (http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/minnie-traction-engine-in-3d/23080) Better than any general arrangement drawing :)
-
Great to see it running Joe.......Excellent work :praise2: Terry
-
Jason, Terry, thanks.
(and thanks for the link, that's excellent)
Joe
-
Well... seems it's been a while. Few bits of life getting in the way of shop time, but it's getting back to normal now.
Picked up with the water pump;
another bit of not-quite on pattern making left one of the bolt holes for securing the pump to the boiler hanging out in the air
so I counter-bored it,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5045_zpsomdlvabs.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5045_zpsomdlvabs.jpg.html)
and soft-soldered in a bit of round stock
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5046_zpsrcxjep0j.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5046_zpsrcxjep0j.jpg.html)
sawed off the excess, and ran the flycutter over it all to even it out. You can see the result here, where I am drilling the flange for the
gland using the gland to spot the holes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5047_zpsd299ers1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5047_zpsd299ers1.jpg.html)
then filed down the flange to match the gland, made up some bronze bolts and some simple turning of some stainless
for the ram
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5049_zpsaxokguhu.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5049_zpsaxokguhu.jpg.html)
and here it is in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5051_zpslrbip6ho.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5051_zpslrbip6ho.jpg.html)
The pipe unions and the square headed valve cover screws were made up of some bronze, this occasioned some delay as the die I used for the unions broke threading the very first one... the new one works just fine...
Started on the eccentric strap earlier today and buggered it already, so will start over tomorrow.
Cheers, Joe
-
I don't know, Joe, but that just seems pretty clever to me!
Nice to see you working on your Minnie!
Kim
-
Hi Joe, nice to see you back at the minnie, don't be set back by buggering up parts I got a shelf full of them, in fact I thing I could make a second odd looking engine out of them.
Mal.
-
Kim: Thanks!
Mal: If messing up a part put me off, I would have given up a long time ago.
There's no more room on the shelf, so I've got a bin filling up as well....
Joe
-
Well, second time was the charm...
Set up in the lathe for boring out the centre...(never got this far on the 1st attempt, I'd split the material and then drilled
for the fasteners, and went off all squint with the holes, nothing matched up. This time I drilled first and then split the
material, cleaned up the mating faces and carried on)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5055_zpsqjhxtugy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5055_zpsqjhxtugy.jpg.html)
hacksawed off most of the waste, then cleaned up in the mill
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5056_zps2hi05ecc.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5056_zps2hi05ecc.jpg.html)
some sawing, filing, and drilling for the arm and then riveted in place (I had turned the eccentric when I did the ones for the valves)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5065_zpsmyw1q8rl.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5065_zpsmyw1q8rl.jpg.html)
And where it all goes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5064_zps7wvo4wnb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5064_zps7wvo4wnb.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Awesome Joe and glad to see you moving forward. I am still with you bud. She's looking great........... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
-
Nice work there Joe.
Mal.
-
Don, Mal, thanks guys!
-
Hi Joe, it is always a pleasure to follow your progress.
-
Thanks, Achim.
-
Following along Joe. :popcorn:
I like these kinds of models.
The water pump came out swell.
-
Thanks Zee.
I'm still following along on your Monitor, but for some reason I keep getting hungry while
looking for pictures.....
-
I'm still following along on your Monitor, but for some reason I keep getting hungry while
looking for pictures.....
:lolb: :lolb: :lolb:
It would be sad except the food is really good!
I appreciate your watching.
-
Made up the valve for the tender tank feed to the boiler pump...
first turned various bits from bronze
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5069_zpstisfg8sx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5069_zpstisfg8sx.jpg.html)
silver soldered the inlet & outlet pipes to the valve body, then into the mill to drill and tap for the valve top, which is internally threaded for
the spindle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5070_zpsuts1fffy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5070_zpsuts1fffy.jpg.html)
Then drilled through the inlet and outlet pipes, that I had not yet through drilled when they were soldered into place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5071_zpsrih7xirw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5071_zpsrih7xirw.jpg.html)
and then some straightforward turning and threading of a bit of stainless for the spindle, which then had some piano wire soldered on
as an extension so that it will reach over the top edge of the tender. Once in place, and with the brake handwheel assembly installed,
the end of the extension will be bent over to horizontal to act as a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5072_zpsnxl6gjee.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5072_zpsnxl6gjee.jpg.html)
Cheers, Joe
-
Very pretty looking little parts there Joe. I'm fairly new to all this, so I'm waiting to see it put in place to help me understand what it's for!
Kim
-
Kim:
This should clear that up for you. A tube is plumbed in from the underside of the tender tank to this valve, then to the boiler feed pump. There will also be a tube from the feed pump back to the tank as return when the pump is in by-pass mode. (In the last photo, you can see the fitting on the bottom of the tank)
Bent up a little bracket from some brass, tinned the back face, drilled the tender and applied a bit of flux, and secured it with some scale lag bolts that cheerfully acted as self-tapping sheet metal screws.. which were well coated with flux before screwing into place.
Then gently heated until the soft solder flowed. All that as I neglected to realize I had this bracket to install back when I was making the tender,
where it would have been less worrying that I might bugger the seal in the tender's bottom joint with more soldering...
From the outside at least, all appears well
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5073_zpsmiyrx5he.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5073_zpsmiyrx5he.jpg.html)
Threaded the end of some steel rod, and then using the collet as a depth stop (which you can't see on the other end of the vise), machined a flat on opposite sides, and drilled through to fit
the extension on the valve spindle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5075_zpseyrks0yg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5075_zpseyrks0yg.jpg.html)
Cut the above from it's parent stock, rounded the cut end, drilled the tender side for it, and here we are:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5076_zpsal5iober.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5076_zpsal5iober.jpg.html)
Really starting to close in on the end now!
Joe
-
The valve is actually in the return from the pump rather than the feed side.
The pump runs all the time the engine is turning over and the pump draws water from the bottom of the tender. When the valve is closed the water is pumped into the boiler. When the valve is open the water from the pump will take the easier route and flow back into the tender rather than the harder route against boiler pressure
Its getting close now Joe :)
J
-
Ah... I see. Its starting to make sense to me now.
Thanks Joe & Jason for the clarifying pictures and explanation.
Pretty ingenious!
Kim
-
There's always more to learn :headscratch: I'm still following along :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
-
Thanks for looking in guys, and thank you Jason for getting me turned around!
Good thing I'm not a plumber... I'd be trying to make the water flow uphill! :Lol:
Joe
-
Still with you Joe and enjoying it....... :ThumbsUp:
8)
Don
-
Nice work Joe, watching your build gives me the heads up on what I got to get done :ThumbsUp:
Mal.
-
Mal, Don, thanks! Sorry for the delay in acknowledging your looking in....
Made up the throttle lever and rod, didn't take any piccys, just straight forward turning of one threaded bit to fit the valve rod, and
mill out a clevis for the other end, the lever is flat bar with a turned handle soldered on, and the bracket was a soldered together fabrication
of flat bar as well. In place here, with some temporary fasteners
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5083_zpsytcktxgy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5083_zpsytcktxgy.jpg.html)
moved on to the blow-down valve, turned and threaded a bit of bronze, parted it off and screwed it into a bit of spare ali in the small lathe (that was drilled and tapped in place so it is concentric with the spindle) turned down the now exposed other end, threaded it, moved the
chuck to the dividing head in the mill to mill the flats to form a hex (all this as I didn't have any hex bronze in the pile)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5084_zps6fg7tls3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5084_zps6fg7tls3.jpg.html)
Turned, threaded, and parted off the spindle, also a bit of bronze
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5088_zpseqlyrcee.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5088_zpseqlyrcee.jpg.html)
some straight forward turned and tapped bits as well,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5089_zpsuddbfuby.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5089_zpsuddbfuby.jpg.html)
soldered together,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5091_zpshgadoytr.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5091_zpshgadoytr.jpg.html)
assembled, and in place:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5093_zpsymkqlfrg.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5093_zpsymkqlfrg.jpg.html)
and now it's time for a cuppa and a smoke....
Joe
-
Nice illusion on that 3rd pic. I had to enlarge it to see the bit of remaining brass.
Following along. :popcorn:
-
Still following along :ThumbsUp: :wine1: Is that your own design of dividing head?
-
Hey Zee, thanks for looking, it surprised me that it wasn't thrown across the room as usual...
Roger: I built it, based on these plans with minor mods... http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/divheadmk1.html
Joe
-
Well, squeezed in some shop time, got to work on the grate and the ash pan
sliced up some stainless, drilled, turned some spacers, cut some rod to assemble it all on
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5122_zpskpw2oohd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5122_zpskpw2oohd.jpg.html)
Stacked up with the ends of the rods peened over
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5123_zpsxls4zjbb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5123_zpsxls4zjbb.jpg.html)
The ash pan was folded in the bench vise, and the corners silver soldered, riveted in supports for the grate, made up the damper and soldered on some hinges filed up out of sheet steel, and soldered heads on some rods as pins
The control rod for the damper is piano wire with a slotted bit of flat stock soldered in
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5124_zpsvyo6t0xt.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5124_zpsvyo6t0xt.jpg.html)
And here it is where it lives:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5125_zpsqhhpjicy.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5125_zpsqhhpjicy.jpg.html)
I'm not to crazy about the locking handle as drawn, so I will most likely make up something a little more in keeping with the look of the engine
And now have turned to some of the brown stuff: need to make up the blocks for the brake
turned some nice dry hard maple:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5128_zps9m5bjns1.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5128_zps9m5bjns1.jpg.html)
Set up my handy-dandy toolpost that lets me turn stuff to the extreme edge of the Taig's envelope, and parting off a ring of the maple
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5129_zpspytqfc03.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5129_zpspytqfc03.jpg.html)
and here it is
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5130_zpsqipwjobf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5130_zpsqipwjobf.jpg.html)
this will be cut into small segments and fastened to to the brake band....
Joe
-
Coming along nicely Joe. Terry
-
Thanks, Terry.
Got the wood segments cut out, and fastened to a strip of re-purposed clock spring (Which was a bugger to drill even after
annealing)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5131_zpsfgnavpuh.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5131_zpsfgnavpuh.jpg.html)
Started on the bracket the ties together all the brake stuff: needed a tapered hole for the brake shaft, finally got a use for the really cheap-o
tapered reamer that I bought 20 years ago for de-burring some copper plumbing line
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5132_zpsetetdui7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5132_zpsetetdui7.jpg.html)
some hack-saw and file work, milled some recesses to hold the gusset in position for soldering, and turned the shaft that the brake lever
rides on, drilled and tapped the blind-end of the first bit, again, just to hold it in position for soldering
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5133_zpsrzo5x360.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5133_zpsrzo5x360.jpg.html)
and here it is dry-fitted, will get the torch out tomorrow...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5134_zpspxhlgi1a.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5134_zpspxhlgi1a.jpg.html)
Joe
-
Nice work Joe looking good, in the middle of doing the rear wheels on mine, seems them strakes are never ending
Mal
-
Hi Joe, fantastic detail, I like it.
-
Very interesting! I was trying to figure out how a wooden ring was going to be used as a brake, but now I see.
Can't wait to see the soldering done. I'm still a novice at that so I always take notes when I see it being done. Are you going to use silver solder? Or soft solder?
Kim
-
Following along Joe. :popcorn:
-
Joe I am just catching up and you've done some awesome work...... :ThumbsUp:
:ThumbsUp: Don
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Mal: just wait, after strakes you've got spokes..... ::)
Fumopuc, Zee, thanks for looking in guys
Kim: sorry to say that I didn't take any pictures of the soldering, it was silver solder, cleaned the jeebers out of the parts with an aerosol brake cleaner,
fluxed everything in sight, put a rig of solder around the shaft, a straight piece along both sides of the angled bit, and hit the heat.
I've got some more soldering coming up when I make the lubricator, will take some snaps for you...
Don Good to hear from you, hope it's nothing too serious keeping you quiet these days.
Joe
-
Turned and threaded some rod for the brake shaft, silver soldered a collar on it
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5171_zpskhavz3dj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5171_zpskhavz3dj.jpg.html)
made up the pair of plates that hold every thing together, and various pins that hold the brake band and a tapped one for the brake shaft,
took a picture of it but it didn't turn out, so you will have to imagine it.... so instead, here it is all assembled in place.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5174_zpsfzvytei9.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5174_zpsfzvytei9.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5175_zps1awyp4of.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5175_zps1awyp4of.jpg.html)
Hand wheel to make and the brakes are done
Joe
-
Quick little bit of work to make the hand wheel: set up the rotary table, milled the various diameters
Then milled out the spokes
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5177_zpskw6jz4xd.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5177_zpskw6jz4xd.jpg.html)
cut out the wheel from the parent stock, a quick lick with a file in the lathe to round it over, tapped the central hole,
and here it is.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5179_zpsyjoiwzwf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5179_zpsyjoiwzwf.jpg.html)
Brakes done!
Joe
-
Very nice Joe! That's a cute little hand wheel you made there!
Kim
-
Nice work Joe like the way you done the brake blocks :ThumbsUp:
Mal.
-
The brake come out great Joe, nice work bud........ :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Kim, Mal, & Don... Thanks, guys!
-
This is yet another project that just keeps getting better and better.
Ell Done Joe.
Tom
-
Looking really good Joe . The ideas you keep giving me on how to tackle different parts is really helpful :ThumbsUp:
-
Tom, Packmule... thanks for looking in.
Started tidying up some loose ends, made up the simulated oilers for the front wheels, straight forward
turning and threading
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5180_zpsak6swoqv.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5180_zpsak6swoqv.jpg.html)
and the covers for the oiling points on the shaft bearings, turned & drilled, the bit that sits in the bearing is split vertically, to keep the
covers in place with spring action
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5181_zpspn5d5tim.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5181_zpspn5d5tim.jpg.html)
and the locking pin for the gear selector
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5182_zpsxlqdm14l.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5182_zpsxlqdm14l.jpg.html)
You can just see the bit of chain hanging down from the bracket that will be secured to the ring of the pin
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5191_zpsy15n3zxx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5191_zpsy15n3zxx.jpg.html)
Stay tuned... more to follow...
-
And now the fun bit, a while back I mentioned that the commercially sourced worm and wheel for the steering
didn't actually mesh..... so finally got to making a new wheel.
Turned up a blank of brass and silver soldered it to a spare bit of steel rod
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5194_zpslgpfgpf7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5194_zpslgpfgpf7.jpg.html)
made up a fixture out of some flat stock out of the come in useful pile...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5195_zpsyjlm4ytm.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5195_zpsyjlm4ytm.jpg.html)
And here's the lucky part, the worm measures up at a very nice 3/8" - 16 thread, so acquired a spiral flute tap in that size, centred it in the
4 jaw, put the blank in its' fixture in a tool holder and squared it up, ran it in at a pretty low speed, and Happy Days, it worked!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5197_zpstpgmqhth.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5197_zpstpgmqhth.jpg.html)
Here's the factory-made one on the left, and the new one on the right
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5198_zpsjlbmkxr3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5198_zpsjlbmkxr3.jpg.html)
Set-up in the drill press to drill through for the eyebolt the secures the gear shaft inside the steering drum
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5200_zps3st3boti.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5200_zps3st3boti.jpg.html)
and everything back where it belongs
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5199_zps64lqst7i.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5199_zps64lqst7i.jpg.html)
Shouldn't have to come off many more times, so the socket head cap screws will disappear soon too.
More importantly, chuffed to report that the thing now works as it should.
Joe
-
That's some mighty fine work there Joe! (In BOTH meanings of the word fine!)
I like the little dummy oilers you made too.
Kim
-
Joe, I love the amount of detail you are putting into this build and along with the great pictures, it's always a joy to see your updates and progress, even if I do so quietly. Nice work on that worm gear too BTW!!
Bill
-
The more I see of this engine the more I want to build one. The level of detail is quite amazing!! Beautiful work.
Pete
-
Excellent Joe.
Am I reading your post right? You used a tap to cut a gear? I'd never seen that before (in my few years as a hobbyist). Very cool.
-
Very interesting work Joe. The gear turned out great bud, excellent work as usual......... :praise2:
Don
-
Still following Joe and enjoying every bit of this excellent build. Terry
-
Kim, Bill, Pete, thanks! Zee: Can't claim any original thought on hobbing a wheel with a tap, learned it on one of these fora...
Don & Terry: thanks to you guys too!
Catching up on some more stuff that got passed by earlier on...
turned and threaded a bit of steel rod,
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5205_zps0io1zrc8.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5205_zps0io1zrc8.jpg.html)
rounded over the end, and drilled it for a handle
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5206_zpsf7tiq1dw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5206_zpsf7tiq1dw.jpg.html)
Turned a short handle and silver soldered it in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5208_zpshtlxmfrb.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5208_zpshtlxmfrb.jpg.html)
and here it is holding the firedoor closed... and made up the final hinge pin as well, replacing the bent up piece of brass that
was temporarily serving...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5211_zpskkimyx0q.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5211_zpskkimyx0q.jpg.html)
Then did the pipe runs from the pump to the tank & valve
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5212_zpshsy1byop.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5212_zpshsy1byop.jpg.html)
and another view:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5213_zpsgcgovrbx.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5213_zpsgcgovrbx.jpg.html)
and more to follow....
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A fun little bit here, decided to add some tensioning turnbuckles/bottle screws similar to the Burrell engine plans that I have (just because I like the look of them)
started with turning the bodies of the bottles:
drilled through tapping size for the screw to come, then milled the slot, and parted them off the parent stock.
Then turned the eyes, milled the flat on them, and cross drilled:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5217_zpsmhinwnpj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5217_zpsmhinwnpj.jpg.html)
Parted off the eyes, finished them with some filing, and then peened over the short little shaft inside the body of the bottle:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5218_zpsont6nm4d.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5218_zpsont6nm4d.jpg.html)
Turned and threaded some more stock for the screws, here they are in the mill for cutting the flats and cross drilling
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5224_zps9ps0ssnj.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5224_zps9ps0ssnj.jpg.html)
The "Ta-Dahhh" photo:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5225_zpsugozs7mq.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5225_zpsugozs7mq.jpg.html)
and in place
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5228_zpsmqk1hkns.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5228_zpsmqk1hkns.jpg.html)
Then after that photo, undid them, and rewound the chains on the drum other way about as I had reversed them. Turning steering wheel right
should not make your vehicle turn left, now should it?
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That's some great little detail there Joe! I really like those turnbuckles!
Kim
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Thanks, Kim. I really like them too... definitely worth the trouble.
Scratch another one off the list: Pressure gauge in place:
Made up the bracket, (drill two holes, bend, & file)
made a nut, bent up some tube:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5229_zpsgdb1soig.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5229_zpsgdb1soig.jpg.html)
And here it is, the plans called for it to be secured at the lower bolt that you see on the right just above the third shaft...
having used up almost all of the copper tubing I had on hand trying to get the bends to accommodate that position, gave up and mounted it higher.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5230_zpsfmbqpjgf.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5230_zpsfmbqpjgf.jpg.html)
Although it seems all squint in the picture, it is actually straight... just a weird photo angle.
Joe
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Love the steering chain adjusters, it's detail like that makes a good model a great model..............Terry
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Love the steering chain adjusters, it's detail like that makes a good model a great model...
:ThumbsUp:
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Nice work Joe your setting a standard with your detail ,I find it hard in 2" what your doing is super fine :ThumbsUp:
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Terry, Zee, Mal, thanks guys!
I decided that I liked the look of a gear cover, (which Mason did not include in his drawings) so drew gear-sized circles
on some card stock and scissored away all that didn't look the part. Once I had a shape that I liked, cut out two of them
from some brass sheet. Then I bent up some thin brass stock to bridge the gap between the front and rear plates,
and riveted them in place. Added a strip to cover that space, riveted that in place, the soft soldered the heck out of it.
After some cleaning up, it looked like this: (I gave all the rivets a good bit of the soft solder as well, then filed the heads off in the clean-up phase of things)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5231_zpshmpbtpaw.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5231_zpshmpbtpaw.jpg.html)
I had already silver soldered some round stock studs on the outside of the rear piece, two of them are drilled and tapped for bolts through the horn plate to hold it in place, and the lower one is simply a spacer. I had also cut away all of the inner plate that would have fouled on various things already bolted onto the hornplate. You can just make out some of the thin brass cross-pieces in this shot. At this point, there is a coat of self-etching primer as well.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5235_zpsbtauibax.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5235_zpsbtauibax.jpg.html)
And voila:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5234_zpsa4hwkcha.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5234_zpsa4hwkcha.jpg.html)
Joe
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Looking Awesome Joe
Pete
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Beautiful fabrication Joe a true work of art...... :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Hi Joe, very nice.
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Very nice!
Still quietly following along here. The gear cover adds some more great detail to your model.
Dave
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Excellent , you're really raising the bar on detail and quality.
Keep it up
Bob :NotWorthy:
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Great fabrication work there Joe. I just love all the detail you're putting into this!
Kim
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Thanks guys, much appreciated!
Got to work on the lubricator assembly....
some milling, then set up in the lathe to drill and ream the bore of the cylinder:
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5236_zps9cvytqby.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5236_zps9cvytqby.jpg.html)
Then back in the mill to drill two No 65 holes as oil ports
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5237_zpsxk7e4xou.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5237_zpsxk7e4xou.jpg.html)
parted that off, and then turned some o-1 drill rod (silver steel) to size, and into the the dividing head to cut the ratchet wheel
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5241_zps1xc6wx1y.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5241_zps1xc6wx1y.jpg.html)
parted that off and and hardened it, then milled up a bit of spare ali as a former for the brass tank parts
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5244_zpsdcycier3.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5244_zpsdcycier3.jpg.html)
cleaned up, well fluxed, wired into place, and silver soldered
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5245_zpsovdo2zuk.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5245_zpsovdo2zuk.jpg.html)
all the other bits were simple turning or drilling, bending and filing...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee257/240283/DSCN5249_zpsqjaivhce.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/240283/media/DSCN5249_zpsqjaivhce.jpg.html)
and that's the state of play to date...
have to fettle the fit of the ratchet dogs, get the springs sorted, and make up the pipe and valve that join the lubricator to the valve chest, and the lever that rides the valve shaft to actuate the ratchet, then need to make up the pipe that joins the blower valve to the chimney saddle, handles for the bypass valve and the damper control rod,
and a pipe for the blowdown valve on the sight glass assembly...and then it's done, bar complete dis-assembly and painting!
Sadly, all that is now on hold, as I am leaving town tomorrow for a summer contract in Ottawa... will have the occasional week-end at home,
so hopefully will complete those last few bits over the summer and will get to painting in September...
Joe
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Very nice work Joe! You're getting awfully close...
I just noticed that you've got a Taig mill & lathe. That's what I have. Enjoyable little machines, aren't they?
Sorry you won't get much shop time over the summer, but I sure understand that!
Best of luck to you on your job!
Kim
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Joe, when you get a chance could you post some up-close detail pics of that lubricator? It looks like a very interesting bit of work!
Also, it's hard to realize the small size of your lathe but the picture of centering the bore, with a full size dial indicator, really puts it into perspective. You guys do such amazing work on those machines. Small work I'm afraid to even try!!
Pete
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Kim. Pete, thanks!
The taig was my first lathe, and I still like it for certain jobs. My mill is a taig as well, would like to get something bigger for some jobs.
but that would pose some space problems in the rather full garage... If you look n the back-ground of the second last photo you will see that I do
have a bigger lathe as well.
Photos of the lubricator assembly will come, it will be a couple of weeks... have to take it all down anyway to fiddle with the springs.
Thanks again, Joe
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As others have already said Joe, some really nice details you are adding to this model. Very impressive!!
Bill
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Really lovely detail Joe. This is a super little engine. Have a good, safe time in Ottowa. I look forward to later instalments if you get time.
Best Wishes.........Terry
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Very nice Joe ,I found making the lubricator in 2" scale very fiddly, you must have some patience well done.
Mal