Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Kits/Castings => Topic started by: Tennessee Whiskey on December 06, 2013, 11:34:25 PM
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Well I'll be Steamer's uncle if right in the middle of a winter ice storm warning, the brown truck just brought me the new set of castings for me third build. It's the PM #6, a horizontal. It's rated at a full 1/4 hp and compared to the #5 I'm finishing up it's huge. PM states this engine and their #4 are full scale castings of kits that were made by the Charles E. Strelinger Co. Of Detroit Mi. in 1895 for home machinist. I think the kits sold for about $5 then (where's the converter Dave). There was a nice little warning to the nice man (or lady) in the brown suit on the box; " Caution Heavy-- 36 lbs." . Folks, one of the crank disc castings weigh more than the whole #5 engine I'm finishing up. The fasteners of course coming from PM are fillister head screws ( I think that's what they call them) and are big enough that I wouldn't need tweezers, if I were planning on using them, however, I promised a certain stud crazed lady here that I would step up me game on this build and start studding myself :lolb: :LittleDevil:. If the electricity stays on and I get to the shed I'll lay her all out for a pic or two. If I knew how to attach a pic of the finished product from PM I would, but, I don't (hint Jo). Now, I've got to finish the #5, I've got to keep telling myself. I might as well beadblast the new set when I clean up this build for paint, don't y'all think :lolb:
:lolb. Hey, thanks for stopping in and y'all stay tuned in now you hear.
Whiskey
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Here you go, Eric. Add this to your metalworking bookmarks and you'll never be lost for the proper screw head terminology...
http://www.zerofast.com/screwh.htm
As to the picture... Right click on it and choose "Save as" option to save it locally, then add that file to your post as an attachment. Of course, the copyright lawyers might get upset so it might be better to just use the URL of the PM page that has the picture.
What are you going to run with this giant engine, anyway? The world's biggest popcorn maker? A steam-powered margarita blender (they already have IC-powered)?
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Ok, here's a picture of mine, but of course Tennessee will do much better.
The lagging is temporary and made of (gasp!) paper. I substituted hex head screws for the slotted ones provided. I purchased some fancy oilers, and the cylinder drain cocks which can't be seen here.
(http://www.voght.com/pmr_6/5.jpg)
Anyway, there's the idea.
--Tim
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Thanks Tim, for the pic and the vote of confidence, but, that's a darn nice looking engine. I don't like PM's lagging as supplied. On the #5, I'm either going without or try wood with raided coffee stirrers. I'd like to do wood on this one also. Thanks for the link Marv. Not only was I correct, I spelled it correctly. That will be useful to find correct replacements on some restorations in the future. It helps to know what to Google. I'm thinking about a ice cream churn to be driven by this beast. I guess compared to a lot of builds here it isn't that big, but, compared to my first three it is. Thanks for stopping in.
Whiskey
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Chips man we want to see chips!
Although one time I was accused of swarfless machining :lolb:
Dave
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Eric, That looks interesting. Can we have a shot of the casting set so that we can see your starting point.
Then I will let you prove that you are a real :LittleDevil:
Although one time I was accused of swarfless machining :lolb:
No swarf, :ShakeHead:
Jo
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Marv,
Thanks for the link to Zerofast; but there is no mention of Allen screw heads, PK or Posidrive, all of which are readily available here. Of coursed PK and Posidrive are specific designs but Allen head is possibly the most commonly used fastener in our hobby. Of course that has other names.
JerryNotts
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Pulling up a chair Eric!
Dave
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That's quite a beastie Eric...and yes...please post a picture of the raw casting set when you can. Stay warm and snow/ice free if you can...its due to arrive over here in NC sometime in the morning but the frozen stuff is supposed to stay north of I-40 thank goodness.
Bill
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Excellent! More "how in the hell do I clamp this funny shaped casting?" adventures.
Keep going Bud. I'll bring my lagging edge beveling fixture to CF. It makes the wooden strips fit with nary a gap.
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Marv,
Thanks for the link to Zerofast; but there is no mention of Allen screw heads, PK or Posidrive, all of which are readily available here. Of coursed PK and Posidrive are specific designs but Allen head is possibly the most commonly used fastener in our hobby. Of course that has other names.
You might find this a bit more comprehensive...
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Type-Chart.aspx
Many of these charts are manufacturer charts covering their products and therefore not necessarily comprehensive. A newer edition of a mechanical engineer's handbook may provide more complete information.
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Marv,
Thanks for the link to Zerofast; but there is no mention of Allen screw heads, PK or Posidrive, all of which are readily available here. Of coursed PK and Posidrive are specific designs but Allen head is possibly the most commonly used fastener in our hobby. Of course that has other names.
JerryNotts
No mention of the common cheese head either, but interesting just the same
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:wallbang: :wallbang: :wallbang:
Eric is planning to build a model of a steam engine. Not a modern bit of DIY :disappointed:.
Jo
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That's a much better list Marv, but still no cheese heads?????
(http://cdn3.fast-serve.net/cdn/stigfasteners/6BA-x-1-4-quot-Slot-Cheese-Head-Screw_700_600_1MK3A.jpg)
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erm ...... I think the point was a listing of head types Jo. For general information.
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It is interesting Tel. The fillister head at first I thought were cheese head, however, they have a more of a rounded head. I think all these designs just gave some engineers a job. Bill and Jo, I'll get piccys ASAP and I think I've already found an oh no in the flywheel casting. Dave, make sure it's a comfortable chair, this'un make take awhile. Stan, as we say down South; Thank You'ns , now, where the Hell ya been boy? :lolb:. Hey, thanks fer getting me all stoked on starting this one and don't forget to stop in at old Marv's Martini Bar. This week there ain't no charge for the olives, or an up charge for vodka; only at Marv's. Don't forget it's the Christmas season. Marv's got TuTu wearing Zee bobble heads for only $7 and ninety two cents. Get Yo self one and set it up there on Yo lathe headstock, it'll keep ya balanced :lolb: :lolb:
Whiskey
Whilst posting this y'all had a chit chat. I knows whats boats of use is saying, and boats of use is right. ( my best Yankee imitation) Jo, my 1939 SouthBend has bunches of cheese heads, and after 73 years, with a quality screwdriver they felt, well, like handmade fasteners. I think it comes to the aesthetics and recreation aspect, now don't you?
:cheers:
Whiskey
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I'm still confused - where do all the bolts go on this Quarter Horse?
(http://turanquarterhorses.webs.com/PICT3628.JPG)
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Find it's nuts and the bolts won't be far away :Lol:
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Well, I did have one bolt on me once - he was nuts! ;D
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Kinda what I was thinking Jason. By the looks of his leg wear, he's trained in the reining discipline. Captain Jerry may confirm this.
Whiskey
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Marv,
Thanks for the link to Zerofast; but there is no mention of Allen screw heads, PK or Posidrive, all of which are readily available here. Of coursed PK and Posidrive are specific designs but Allen head is possibly the most commonly used fastener in our hobby. Of course that has other names.
JerryNotts
No mention of the common cheese head either, but interesting just the same
Probably because none of these suppliers are located in Wisconsin.
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Wow! Where do I get one of those 'ats? :lolb:
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Wow! Where do I get one of those 'ats? :lolb:
Send the Wisconsin Chamber of Commerce your picture. They'll probably send you one of their models with the pull-down mask as a gesture of international mercy. :-)
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Cool Eric, I like the upsizing approach
Steve
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Per request and as promised, here's a couple of piccys of the raw castings, supplied hardware, and bar stock. Not many pieces for $263 or near a 164 quid, but, they are good size. I meant to put a scale in the pic for size reference, but, I goofed and didn't. The flywheel is 6.875" if that helps. Following the lead of a certain swarfless machine operator here, I plan on bead blasting and doing some serious fettling on the lot before I get really started.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0398_zpsc863a99e.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0398_zpsc863a99e.jpg.html)
In this photo, if your eye is seeing what my eye is seeing, then, the center hole is far from being centered. They should have just let me put it in there. It's about a .500" hole and I think the shaft is .625", so, it may be just enough there so I can bore the hole to center :shrug:. If not it's phone call time.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0399_zps9b72ff85.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0399_zps9b72ff85.jpg.html)
Well, that's about it for tonight. Y'all thanks for the interest and come back to see us, now you hear
Whiskey
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Yea my brother, you have gone and got yourself a real go size engine to build. I will be following alone bud. Just keep it between the lines if you know what I mean. I plan on buying a Little Brother casting kit for Christmas. So I may be building mine while you build yours.
Don
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Thanks for the pics Eric! As to that bore...it is obviously out re: the center hub. Have you measured from the bore to the outer rim though? It could be that the center hub is out some relative to the rim. If so, and if there is enough stock to machine the OD of the center hub, it could give you just a bit more wiggle room too. Nice looking set of castings though aside from that, but I agree, they could have just let the builder spot and drill that center hole.
Bill
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Or make a (true) bore oversized and press in a sleeve.
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Yep the key is if you can pull it off is to get the un-machined inside rim running as true as possible in the lathe before you start a machining; because that is what is going to catch your eye when the engine is running.
As Tel said if the bore doesn't clean up; just figure out a way to fix it. Bore it over size or put a sleeve in it.
Dave
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The beginning of many challenges Eric.
Have fun.
Gail in NM
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Wot They said! 8)
Dave
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Let's let the game begin. I started the PM#6 in earnest today. I learned a good bit about the quirks of working with castings on my last little build and look forward to being able to apply the knowledge of past mistakes to making a better engine this time. I bead blasted and did some fettling, and off to the mill. Turned the top side down, packed some shim under a low corner, and skimmed the bottom. Flipped it over and cleaned the top.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0007_zps178d1d7b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0007_zps178d1d7b.jpg.html)
I was really pleased with the surface finish produced by the face mill
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0008_zpsa3e12d4b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0008_zpsa3e12d4b.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0009_zps7d41da43.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0009_zps7d41da43.jpg.html)
In preparation for "stepping it up a notch" on this build, I ordered some 416 stainless round stock and some 303 hex stock.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0002_zpsd5d8b7a2.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0002_zpsd5d8b7a2.jpg.html).
And whilst the mill was a milling, I decided, just for Jo, I'd keep me self busy, and lo and behold look what happened :lolb:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0010_zps889d92e0.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0010_zps889d92e0.jpg.html)
He's the first of the litter and is a 10-24 x1". We'll see if the rest start looking better or worse :naughty:.
Jo, maybe after me evening tea, I'll try to knock you up a nut :mischief:. I have to ask Dave Otto about his, man they are nice. ( post #70 in his Pacific build ) ;) Well, thanks for stopping in and y'all come back to see us now you hear
Whiskey
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And whilst the mill was a milling, I decided, just for Jo, I'd keep me self busy, and lo and behold look what happened :lolb:
He's the first of the litter and is a 10-24 x1". We'll see if the rest start looking better or worse :naughty:.
Jo, maybe after me evening tea, I'll try to knock you up a nut :mischief:. I have to ask Dave Otto about his, man they are nice.
:embarassed: A nice big one. The first time is always the best, after the hundredth time :-\ it can loose a bit of its sparkle.
I try not to ask a man about his nuts, well not unless :slap:
Jo
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You da man Eric!!! Nice start on the base and that stud looks great, particularly for stainless!
Bill
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Looks like a great start Eric! keep at it tater! 8)
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Oh yea! You look like your off to a good start. Keep it coming brother. :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Good start, Eric :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
416 stainless, eh? Did you choose that because it machines better than 303? I see that it's magnetic; I wonder if any of my mystery estate-sale rods are this? :thinking:
Simon
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I'll be watching Eric!
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I'm still confused - where do all the bolts go on this Quarter Horse?
It can be very dangerous when a quarter horse bolts.
Bolts or not, I'm going to enjoy watching this build.
Alan
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Jeez! I didn't realize from the group portrait of the castings how big that sucker is.
Could probably turn a BBQ spit with half a cow on it.
Keep going. We need our metal porn.
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Greait idea Stan...to be demonstrated at CF perhaps :)
Bill
Edit: In our neck of the woods however, BBQ is most often pork so it should handle a whole suckling pig :)
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I want to build one of these, so I will be watching your build closely. Popcorn is made and I've got the chair pulled up.
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Nice start to it Eric. I've contemplated buying this PM engine for some time and will be interested in seeing your results.
Cheers,
Phil
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Thanks for stopping in guys. Simon, that is the reason I chose 416, Speedy said excellent machinability. Stan, it is pretty good sized, as a matter of fact, bout all my mill could handle in the Y axis. If the creeks don't rise I hope it'll be at CF. Terry and Phil, I've had good luck so far with PM and their replacement service for stuffed parts has been great. 8) Now, before I start drilling and tapping am I correct in assuming that if the print calls for a 10-24 screw (kit supplied), that I should use a 10-24 stud? And in this size stud range, can I make the nut to the dimensions in the Machinist Handbook? Y'all come see us.
Whiskey
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Thanks for stopping in guys. Simon, that is the reason I chose 416, Speedy said excellent machinability. Stan, it is pretty good sized, as a matter of fact, bout all my mill could handle in the Y axis. If the creeks don't rise I hope it'll be at CF. Terry and Phil, I've had good luck so far with PM and their replacement service for stuffed parts has been great. 8) Now, before I start drilling and tapping am I correct in assuming that if the print calls for a 10-24 screw (kit supplied), that I should use a 10-24 stud? And in this size stud range, can I make the nut to the dimensions in the Machinist Handbook? Y'all come see us.
Whiskey
Use a stud with a #10-24 on one side and #10-32 on the other. The #10-24 going into the casting and the #10-32 getting the nut.
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Hey Eric
Great to see progress on your next engine build.
With regards to the thread size I would lean toward the fine pitch series of threads so I would probably go with #10-32. But hold on there about the nuts; which version of the MHB are you looking at? The reason is unless it is one from the turn of the century the sizing will probably be all wrong for a model.
Yes now day’s engine studs can be coarse on one end and fine on the other; but that is usually due to being used in an alloy casting. For the CI I would still stick to the fine pitch threads.
http://www.americanmodeleng.com/id41.html
This is a good reference for hex size but I personally feel the head height of their nuts and bolts are too short. I have a pretty good reference sheet that I got off of Harry’s Smokestack site that covers most of the high crown hardware used on early engines. This is what I used as a baseline for my hardware and scaled it down from there for the smaller model sizes.
I need to see if there is a place on MEM for uploading this type of thing.
Looking good so far!
Dave
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Ok, so I have a little something else accomplished, would have had more done but my dad is working on an old wagon and needed some axle, bushing and sleeve work done. At both of our ages, I'm a wise enough child to enjoy the time whilst either of us have it ;). Now, these castings are really nice, however, they are darn near to size, as you can see. I learned a few little things on me last build, so, out came the Dykem. Now, I figured the most accurate layout tool I have is the DRO. So, I never broke the base loose after milling and I took extreme measures squaring the base to the milling table. The only AW Sh#t I had was I couldn't reach two holes on the crank support pillars. I thought I had it covered, but, must have been thinking center line and not bolt line. Well, its only two holes and easy enough ones to locate and drill "freehand". Here's y'all some picture proof of what I been just telling you 8)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0011_zps02d0f6d8.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0011_zps02d0f6d8.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0015_zps287174b2.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0015_zps287174b2.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0016_zpsa215eba2.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0016_zpsa215eba2.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0017_zps5fde30b2.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0017_zps5fde30b2.jpg.html)
Now thank y'all for stopping in and come see us now you hear'
Whiskey
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Looks good Eric. Those castings are pretty much on size as you say but it is a cast engine after all and given its size, that can actually add to the overall realism IMHO. You could always take a skim cut around the perimeter of each bearing pedestal once the caps are installed but probably not needed. A little sand or bead blasting would tend to blend the slight mismatches in size too. Its your canvas to paint a masterpiece on though :)
Bill
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Marv's got TuTu wearing Zee bobble heads for only $7 and ninety two cents.
Marv must have sold hundreds of thousands of these. I know they're highly desired.
I believe some royalties are due for image use. Please send check. Cashier's preferred.
Eric...if you plan on bringing that massive engine to Cabin Fever, make sure you still have room for Lou and the beans and pork.
If you don't have room, then you stay and let Lou drive.
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It's time for y'all's shot of Whiskey. I'm moving slowly, but, happily along. I finished drilling and tapping the base and started on the first crank bearing pillar. I don't know how or why, but, nothing went wrong with the part :lolb:. It machined beautifully and the dimensions were hit within +/- .001". I didn't think I had an end mill long enough to face the sides to width except a roughing one, so, that's what I used on this one and then found a finishing one after it was too late. Aw well, a little W&D and they'll be fine. I'm also jumping in the "stud" arena. These are 1/4x28tpi and I am getting the hang of figuring length. ( Dearest Jo, please note the 1.5 threads above the nut, the washer boss on the nut, and no the stud on the left isn't a keeper.) I also decided to go with the "one size smaller" route on the nuts. These are 3/8" instead of 7/16", however. I still don't have the washer boss as I would really like it. Please weigh in Dave Otto. Well, here's y'all something to look at and I see you later, now you hear.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0022_zpsfe456237.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0022_zpsfe456237.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0021_zps7b6d1819.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0021_zps7b6d1819.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/DSC_0026_zps32b6fd16.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/DSC_0026_zps32b6fd16.jpg.html)
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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Nice Nuts Eric!
Here is the sheet I was talking about; I found that on smaller nuts the 15deg chamfer is really hard to see. I have been using 20deg on the Pacific hardware. Also on the washer boss I have been making it about .01" tall and just shy of the across the flats dimension for the diameter.
Dave
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Looking great! Love the studs and nuts but I'm sending the UK stud police to check you and Dave. That looks more like 1.573 threads above the nut. The law clearly states 1.5000000000.
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And you expect anyone with a user name of Tennessee Whiskey to worry about what the law clearly states.
Gail in NM
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Hey Eric,
I think even Jo would approve of those studs!... :ROFL:
That looks great, and I like how you cleaned them up.
Dave
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looking good my brother even the governor would approve. :agree: So we going to have more progress tomorrow. :stickpoke:
:cheers: Don
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Thanks guys for stopping in. Stan, nope, I measured them, but, maybe you should check my maths, they are 28tpi, so, how many thousandths is that above the nut and don't forget they do have the perfectly crowned head. Dave Otto, coming from a man with your quality of nuts, I take that as the utmost compliment. I saw that chart also. Seems sizes are all over the place, so, I averaged.( Johnny Carson could have had a ball with this).
Steamer, I don't know, Jo is quite the "stud connoisseur" , hey, a woman knows what she likes :LittleDevil: Don, I'm afraid for the rest of the week I have to captain the ship with a crew of 12 "lovely young lasses" which leads to a lot of beer after work, so, probably not, unless I throw in a few Red Bulls :lolb: :lolb:. Hey, thanks to my cheering section for stopping in. FYI: Marv's Martini Bar has BOGO and free napkins this week for all MEM members :cheers:.
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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Looking great Eric...that experience factor is kicking in. The studs look great too!! Jo will surely approve :)
Bill
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FYI: Marv's Martini Bar has BOGO and free napkins this week for all MEM members :cheers:.
Yeah, here's how that BOGO works...
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/mklotz/SIGNS/FISH_CHIPS_zpseec28228.jpg) (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/mklotz/media/SIGNS/FISH_CHIPS_zpseec28228.jpg.html)
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So, I've been slowly plugging along. I didn't take a lot of pics as it's mostly all routine ops at the present. I did get the other crank bearing pillar done ( only one :slap:, but, it's only cosmetic). I am getting better at my studding (and now Jo has moved on to the balls :lolb:). I've got the crosshead guide coming up to finish. This is going to require a bore of near 5.5" in length. I was talking to a customer of mine that works for a high tech machine shop and he said let me see what I've got in my "we don't use anymore box". So today he brought me a 3/4" boring bar for the lathe and this end mill. He said; You will have to grind a bit for the boring bar, but, if you wanted to use you rotary table and mill you could probably do it with this end mill, I made sure it was a newly sharpened one. Look at the size of this sucker. Well, here's the piccys. Thanks for stopping in.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/85c9fec8-af81-4a9a-ba9c-3a45e2661097_zps20124f51.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/85c9fec8-af81-4a9a-ba9c-3a45e2661097_zps20124f51.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140206_163458068_zps4cc9c38d.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140206_163458068_zps4cc9c38d.jpg.html)
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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as it's mostly all routine ops at the present
Wow. Didn't know there was such a thing. I guess I haven't done the same operation the same way more than once yet. ;D
What's that worktop made of? Quartz? Granite?
Nice score. It's good to know people.
I should get to know people.
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All right some progress at last. Keeping it between the line my brother. :stickpoke: We are about to get some more cold weather here. I know a lot of you have been without power. :zap: Keep warm bud. And I do like....... :ThumbsUp:
Oh yea! Check you personal email.
Another cold coonass
Don
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Well, that's getting there. Working away a little at a time and pretty soon you've got an engine. Nice end mill. That is sweet. See, size does matter.
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Nice score on the tooling my brother!......engine is coming along nice too!.
Dave
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Nice to see some progress Eric. Now THATS an end mill, but its a horse of an engine too. Hope you are staying warm too.
Bill
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I am getting better at my studding (and now Jo has moved on to the balls :lolb:).
Balls are an old pleasure of mine ;). Studs provide a different type of satisfaction but there are others, which :old: if I recall correctly, were much more fun :shrug:
Jo
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Well, I thought I would give you your Monday shot of whiskey. I'm going to be honest. Due to PPP on my part I had to put in way too many hours on Friday and Saturday. I did it, it's my fault, and I ain't going to bitch about it. However, I'm realizing it takes longer to get over it than it used to. So, I spent all day Sunday with Lou (was her birthday), watching the Olympics, sipping IPA, eating real good cheese, and when she dozed I'd check in on you guys. Great bunch of work going on here right at the present and here's my measly contribution. On the last episode of Redneck Machine Shop, I had finished the crank bearing pillars. I decided to do as "we people" would say, "Start down here and work my way down yonder". So, I reckon the crankshaft is next. The kit comes with cast crank discs, and I must say the were darn near flawless.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140210_081213272_zps57edda96.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140210_081213272_zps57edda96.jpg.html)
Learning from my last build I established my center hole and bored to dimension for a press fit and the mounted the disc on an expanding arbor from a set Lou gave me for my birthday. Arbor worked a treat, however, those cheap a&& socket head screws the Asians use didn't provide enough grip, so, I brought the tailstock forward and expanded it with a live center. Worked well it did.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140210_102800990_HDR_zps959734ee.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140210_102800990_HDR_zps959734ee.jpg.html)
And here it is, ready to move to the mill to bore the crank pin hole.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140210_112942364_zps02911dc1.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140210_112942364_zps02911dc1.jpg.html)
Well that's all I have. But, least you know I didn't sleep all weekend. I took these piccys with my phone, forgot SD card and it was too cold and I was too lazy to walk back to the house and get it. Hope they are ok. Hey, thanks for looking in and y'all come see us.
Whiskey
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measly
I always liked that word. But there's nothing here that justifies it.
Progress is progress.
P.S. Something odd about the 2nd picture. Only part of it shows.
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Yo Dog, is that all you got to show us? :lolb: looking good my brother ever piece brings us closer to the end. Keep it coming. :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Those are some really nice crank disks. No too concerned with quantity. It's quality. That's two more nice pieces to check off the list. BTW, you now have less than 60 days to get that thing running. :lolb:
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Nice job on those Tatah!....Those'll come out nice in the mill!
Dave
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NICE!!! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
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Eric...that crank disk looks excellent. Your photography skills are looking great too, not that they were bad, just some nice pictures in this latest update. I know what you mean about not recovering as fast. I am just getting back from Phoenix this morning...left at 12:35 AM, arrived in Charlotte at 6 AM...and have two classes to teach today, the last one not over until 4:45 PM. Just hoping the snow stays away till them. I am getting too old for these "red eye" flights and this is the second one I the last few months. I am excited about the quarter horse...and as Zee said...nothing measly about the fine job you are doing on it.
Bill
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Nice work Eric :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I'm not sure if you've seen this build log for what I think is the same engine: http://www.rcdon.com/html/6ci_steam_engine_project.html (http://www.rcdon.com/html/6ci_steam_engine_project.html) and he has a good video of a whole steam plant driving it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FXeYKvQQ6o
I think I lost a few hours looking at that guy's turbojet projects: http://www.rcdon.com/html/experimental_projects.html (http://www.rcdon.com/html/experimental_projects.html). Crazy stuff!
Simon
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Measly Schmeasly...
Yo' not doing half bad for a Redneck :NotWorthy:
I'll have to start taking leave to catch up with what everyone's doing on the site :)
Kind regards, Arnold
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Thanks guys. :praise2:. Don, yup, that's bout all I could muster. As old Waylon said; "If I'd known I was gonna live this long I'd taken better care of myself". Stan, I'm well aware of the schedule. I think I have time allocated, however, being mindful of a possible search by the stud police, I'm proceeding with extreme caution, which, may have schedule ramifications. Simon, yes I've read hours of RCDON. When he built this he had a small HF lathe and mill. I thought his build log was great and it turned into a real nice all steam presentation I thought. I thought the modified feed water pump was way cool. Bill, I did get carried away and polish the whole disc. I was laughing to myself and thinking, " Now, Dave Otto, this is fettling" :lolb:. I know what you are saying about "both end candle burning". As my little buddy wrote, " I ain't as good as I once was, but, I'm as good once as I ever was". It's just Hell when you gotta do it twice. :lolb: :lolb:. Funny bout the pictures, I've been using a nice SLR and these I just snapped with my phone, they were auto uploaded to PhotoTruckit and it was actually a lot easier. Arnold, thanks and I agree totally, as far as swarf being made and producing interesting posts and the number of runnahs shown, I think we maybe at our most active. Thanks for the encouragement guys. Y'all come see us.
Whiskey
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Here's y'alls Monday shot of whiskey. I didn't get all that much done. I had to repair a little freeze damage to the RV so as to keep it ready for the trip to Cabin Fever and DOG has had some minor health issues that so far has taken two trips to the vet and I've eaten (had a few good IPA's) and showered a couple of times. But, here's what we got. I had finished the crank disc and was ready for the crank pin. Now, I haven't turned a between shoulder dimension in 35 years and I can almost assure you the between shoulder dimension wasn't .560 and the diameter of the turning wasn't .499 and the shoulders weren't .120 with a stub on each end that had to be turned for a press fit (.374), maybe that with a 1 in front, but, not this small. Well, after two bits of .625 rod tossed to the " I'll need you later" bin, I got it right. Now I know Don's gonna jump on me about piccys, but, A: I wanted it right and B: I was doing this to keep my mind off of some other things and three things was too much for me to do. So, no piccys whilst turning. I turned a shaft for a tight sliding fit to center the mains and then used the arbor press to press in the crank pin. I picked it up to admire my work and noticed in my excitement to assemble I had forgotten to polish the inside of one crank disc. Zee, may I? CRAP. Aw well I'll get around it. Now, I've got to get my bigger shop press back home, because we are looking at a near 9" end to end press to finish up this crank. I used my centering shaft and a bob to stage this photo. Now, I'm including a shot of my flywheel. As Dave has stated "I hate grub (set) screws". I would like to use a type of taper lock and I need one of you "engineerical types" to help me wit it :Jester:. When and if anybody is willing to offer help, I'll supply dimensions. Now, there ain't but two or tree pics and I'll take my lashings, least I was tinking of yous mugs. Hey, Mosey, how do y'all spell that yous word, huh? :lolb:. This weeks episode was brought to y'all by "Zee's Big Butt Jeans" "If You Got The Butt, We Got The Jeans To Make You Strut". Only at Zee's, This week buy one pair and get the second at only 20% MORE. Ok, Here's the pics and y'all let me have it.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140217_114734210_zps4f1998ee.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140217_114734210_zps4f1998ee.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140217_114637876_HDR_zps7dcb454b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140217_114637876_HDR_zps7dcb454b.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140217_114507135_zpsa0b13ab6.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140217_114507135_zpsa0b13ab6.jpg.html)
Come see us,
Whiskey
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Man, that is looking great Eric...I would even go so far as to say IMPRESSIVE even. Hope DOG is doing better and nothing too serious!!
Bill
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Ha! Should of warned you about the crank-pin. Like you, I made three before getting one that was even marginal. The most challenging part of the build for me.
I definitely had to get an extra length of 5/8" 12L14 to finish the engine. Too many inches of the kit stock went into the the srap box.
I decided to go with 1/8" square keys on the flywheels. I milled keyways in the shaft and broached the flywheels. It wasn't hard, and probably more
true-to-scale (maybe you're the type who sweats over number of threads above the nut). In any case, a set screw bearing on a key seems a much more
palatable usage than "screw digging into shaft".
Looking good, by the way.
--Tim
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Now it's really looking like an engine. Making a part 3 times. That's usually my S.O.P.
I have one of those boxes of "close" parts that I'll need someday. Haven't needed one yet.
Keep going. It does take your mind of most other things.
Best wishes to DOG.
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Nice studs Eric :ThumbsUp: :mischief:
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Zee, may I? CRAP.
Of course! As I've said elsewhere...My crap is your crap. Crap is for anybody.
'Crapola' may be a more signature utterance.
'Rats' is also a favorite but that's more ubi..ubiqui...common.
This weeks episode was brought to y'all by "Zee's Big Butt Jeans" "If You Got The Butt, We Got The Jeans To Make You Strut". Only at Zee's, This week buy one pair and get the second at only 20% MORE.
:ROFL:
Same sale as "Zee's tu-tus"...priceless.
BTW...I didn't say 'big'. I said 'bubble'. There's a 'big' difference.
Shapely.
The opportunity to judge for yourselves will be at CF.
So if you're going to get into manufacturing them...you'd best be good at measuring the original model. ;D
Sorry...I cannot provide any moon shots. Pictures just don't describe.
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That's really coming along, Eric :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Glad to hear that you got to shower a couple of times too :lolb:
Simon
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That crank looks really nice Eric! You ought to be pretty pleased with that! :)
Thanks for posting! Its nice to see your making progress.
Tell DOG we're thinking of him!
Kim
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Why I am rather proud of you my brother, you done good. Now I realize that rednecks can't chew gum and spit at the same time, so I forgive you for not taking the piccy's. :lolb: Hope the dogs alright though and keep them piccy's coming buddy. You know we have to know what your doing at all times. :stickpoke:
:cheers: Don
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Thanks guys. Ain't nobody got me an answer on that taper lock
Whiskey
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Well we were hoping Gail would chime in. So better yet, check his opposite engine thread as he just made a taper hub for his flywheel. Good luck!
Don
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Nice job on the crank buddy!
And the nice little domes on the ends of the studs wow! I think Jo would be proud.
So did the original engine have a taper lock hub on the flywheel?? Just asking?
Dave
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You mean that I am going to see this engine at Cabin Fever??
I can hardly wait!
Jim
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Thanks guys. Dave, I don't think it was modeled from any particular real engine. It was sold as a kit for home machinist by the Strelinger Co. back in the day, just like PM is doing now. I just thought because of this one's size it might be easier to try a taper lock on. I hate grub screws, did I tell you that :lolb:. Thinking back to my childhood days on the farm, there were sheaves and pulleys and sprockets on a lot of stuff, but, seems like I remember more square head bolts with rounded ends than I do set screws. Nothing is turned yet, so, we're still smoking it over :thinking:. Aussie Jim, I'm hoping it will be there, no, it will be there. Ain't gonna give Stan the chance. I am now on a mission. :Director:.
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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Glad you mentioned that. I was thinking, if I have a few days before CF, I'd knock out a PM#6. :lolb:
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Yeah, but, you would use those dreadful screws that come in the kit and not proper studs.
Whiskey
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No, no! I'm hooked on studs.
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Looks like you are having lots of fun Whiskey.
If I can help with the taper lock hub let me know. They are easy and I think they add a lot.
Gail in NM
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Taper lock collets for flywheels is a great way to go!...
Dave
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Taper Lock bushings are pretty easy, and you can use a drawing from a full sized one, then just scale it down to what fits. It is not mentioned on the drawing, but the angle of the taper is 3 degrees if I remember correctly. Three holes are threaded for locking/jacking bolts, and the other three holes are drilled to clearance size for the bolts. The flywheel would have only three holes in it, threaded for the bolts you use.
If you need more drawings, take a look at McMaster-Carr. They have drawings of most of the pulleys and taper lock bushings that they sell. You can download and save as DXF, PDF, etc, in 2D or 3D.
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Not to hijack Eric's thread but....
I don't get how taperlock bushings work. Maybe this should be a new thread
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Ok. The bell just went off and I get it. That's a great locking system.
I'm going to make one for the mill engine flywheel.
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I think it would look good on this build and also give me another new "bullet in my pocket". Is there any gap between the collet and the flywheel or do you try to find that perfect length to lock it and leave no gap? Stan, Gail also did a beautiful tiny one on his present build.
Whiskey
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Hi Eric
In full sized practice at least the ones I have been around on industrial equipment; there is always a small gap between the bushing flange and pulley (flywheel) when everything is tight.
Dave
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Now that it has been mentioned (hope you do not mind Eric), does the flywheel bore need to have the same taper?
Vince
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yes Vince
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Just caught up on this thread. You're doing a great job and like the others I'll be looking for this engine at Cabin Fever.
I really like that taper lock idea. I have that in a generator setup I put together. I hadn't thought about it in a model engine until I saw it in GailinNM's build. Then I thought, oh yeah, we make models of bigger "real" engines, so why not.
I hope you go for it Whiskey. I'll pick your brain at CF.
Cheers,
Phil
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Here's y'all a Monday shot of whiskey. I brought my big press home, I had left it in a neighbor's shop about fifteen years ago when I closed my auto repair business. I kinda hated to even ask, but, he said he never used it and if he needed to he knew where I lived. SO, I pressed the main shafts into the crank discs and laid it in the bearings. It has one little tight spot, but, should run in nicely.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140224_103746149_zps4ea2f47e.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140224_103746149_zps4ea2f47e.jpg.html)
Stan, I'll get the studs back proper, don't call the popo yet :Jester:
I then turned my attention to the flywheel. I decided to go with the taper lock, Did I tell you I hate grub screws. I also learned to set the center hole as my datum. I bored the taper in the flywheel first and as Chuck instructed turned the collet from the backside without disturbing the compound. Knocked the collet in the flywheel and bored for the shaft. Yup, used one of those almost free boring bars. Worked a treat it did.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140224_103730601_zps093daf41.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140224_103730601_zps093daf41.jpg.html).
I then mounted the flywheel with collet on an expanding mandrel, supported with a live center in the tailstock. This is the biggest chunk I've turned so far and it is rough CI, so, I was watching what I was doing and not taking piccys. It did turn nicely, after the crust. I did take one pic after it was over to show you the bit I used. I don't know what they are or what they are supposed to fit, but, they cut through CI crust like butter and leaves a mirror finish on brass.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140224_125709580_zpse867d7ed.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140224_125709580_zpse867d7ed.jpg.html)
I turned every thing to rough dimension, faced off my collet, and have it spot drilled and ready for drilling and tapping.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140224_125802722_zps7c839ca4.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140224_125802722_zps7c839ca4.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140224_135700358_zps502cf10b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140224_135700358_zps502cf10b.jpg.html)
After the collet is drilled, tapped, and split, I plan on mounting it all back on a shaft between centers to finish. Well, thanks for stopping in and I'll be here on the hill.
Whiskey
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The flywheel came out well.
I don't much about this engine...going to putting oilers on those bearings?
Is my terminology right. ;D
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Thanks Zee. Yeah, I think the terminology is correct. The plans show brass oilers, however, the drip oilers from PM sure look good. I might spring for a couple of those on this one, but, I still want to learn how to make the pretty ones with the glass in them.
Whiskey
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Now that's looking good my brother and I am glad to see more progress. I guess you and Stan got a race going here, but I am afraid he's got you beat for CF. That crank be looking just danny, and those photos are superb. I like........... :praise2:
Don
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Eric, that is just some first rate work there! You will be happy with that taper lock bushing I know. The crank and disks and bearing stands...equally as nice!!
Bill
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Thanks Zee. Yeah, I think the terminology is correct. The plans show brass oilers, however, the drip oilers from PM sure look good. I might spring for a couple of those on this one, but, I still want to learn how to make the pretty ones with the glass in them.
Whiskey
Yes! The pretty ones with glass. Seems I remember Jo did a nice piece on that. Make them!
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Don, Bill, and Zee, thanks for stopping in. Don, the way I move these days I could never keep up with Stan. I think it was Jo, who posted on some drip oilers, I'll have a look back. Bill, so far so good on the taper lock, now if it will just lock the darn flywheel, I'll breath a little.
See Ya Guys
Whiskey
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Those are not drip feed oilers, these are ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/1-3rd%20Galloway/IMAG2055_zps111c65d7.jpg)
(http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/44290/oiler.jpg)
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Wow Jason I bet that was quite fiddly
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Who makes the giant coins for you Jason? :LittleDevil:
Alan
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Yup fellas, that's what I'm talking about. I don't know why Jo removed her post and link, didn't have a chance to look on a good computer. Jason, you don't happen to have a COC and assembly details suitable for a newbie redneck do you? The ones from PM look good and for time issues on this build (all Stan's fault :lolb:) I might just order or use the simple cup type on the prints. I would like to attempt to make some though, as I think they are a focal point of a lot of builds. Now just posting this, I was thinking that if a walk up to a beautiful build, the oilers are one of the first things that pop out and make a statement. I guess it's the attention to the little things. Hey, y'all keep giving me input. I love getting the mail, it's lonely over here, seriously :cheers:
Happy Modeling
Whiskey
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Hey Eric
Morrison and Marvin have plans for this model of an American drip oiler; might be a tad small for your PM #6 though.
I made a pair of them for the Little Brother engines.
Dave
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Cup type are easy enough to make, simple form tool for teh outside and ball nosed mill for the inside
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1436_zps74b4ed8e.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1435_zpse2bbb9e9.jpg)
You can also add lids to them
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/07-2.jpg)
But the drip feeds do look good, especially in pairs ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20scale%20Domestic%20Stovepipe/DSC05405.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20scale%20Domestic%20Stovepipe/PICT0358.jpg)
PM sent
J
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If you decided you wanted to buy a glass type, you might look here:
http://www.americanmodeleng.com/id32.html
I took the lazy route and used them on my PMR 6 build.
--Tim
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I don't know why Jo removed her post and link,
Say it ain't so! :o
I did come across this one but I'm pretty sure she had a thread that talked about cutting the glass and more. Where are you Jo? We need you! :Love:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1420.msg19456.html#msg19456
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Damn, those oilers are beautiful! Come on, Eric. You can do those or we can knock them out in my shop right after CF.
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I swear, I was just starting to think I needed to be more serious in my post, however, being comedic in nature, y'all are giving me a lot of material to work with :LittleDevil: Where were you guys in the early SNL and Comedy Club days when I was starving? :lolb:. Stan, Jason, and Zee, I want to make them, however they may be like my first Harley, I bought it, rode it, then I started adding the "bling". However, due to scheduling conflicts, I may not be as pressed on this one as once thought, so, we might just bling this one out.
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
PS : thanks Jason
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I don't know why Jo removed her post and link,
Say it ain't so! :o
I did come across this one but I'm pretty sure she had a thread that talked about cutting the glass and more. Where are you Jo? We need you! :Love:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1420.msg19456.html#msg19456
Zee,
I followed that and found this:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,501.450.html
wherein Jo makes oilers for her Double Tandem Compound. :atcomputer:
Alan
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I want to make them, however they may be like my first Harley, I bought it, rode it, then I started adding the "bling"
I do the same thing. Build an engine, run it, then go back and add some nice touches. For me, it's probably a confidence thing. Why make it beauteous if it won't run :Doh: OTOH, that means I've got to take an engine that's running and disassemble parts of it to add the bling, then hope I can get it running.
Oilers though can always be added as long as you tap the holes during the build, of course.
Are we going to see this engine at CF?
Cheers,
Phil
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Hi, what is the white material covering the steam lines??? I am guessing it is used for insulation, but I am not sure. Sorry for going of topic. :embarassed:
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Today DOG was kinda like Dave Otto and bored since his surgery, so, he wanted to go to the shop. No problem old boy. I was going to finish off the collet lock, but didn't have a 3/16' hex collet to make my bolts. I think next Tuesday is two for Tuesday at Enco, thanks Marv. Now, I've been sweating this cross head guide or frame as the prints call it. It has an 1.5" bore for a length of near 5". Now, I know the purist here are going to faint, but, here's how I did it. I took an expanding mandrel that had to be driven into the bore and chucked it in the three jaw. I faced the guide, turned it around and faced the cylinder head surface and turned it to the proper OD. I then took me longest, strongest boring bar and bored over half the length to diameter. I then swapped ends again and bored this less than half. My lathe is new, the chuck is pretty true and I hoped for the best. And guys, I think we have a winner. The bore is spot on and has no sign misalignment. I was tickled pink. Here's y'all some pics and DOG said to show his to Dave :Jester:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140227_150617152_zpsce330d9b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140227_150617152_zpsce330d9b.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140227_153911812_zps864feefd.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140227_153911812_zps864feefd.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140227_165102214_HDR_zpse4fb43a9.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140227_165102214_HDR_zpse4fb43a9.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140221_123959648_zps3748c242.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140221_123959648_zps3748c242.jpg.html)
Whiskey
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Nicely done Whiskey. I hope DOG's ear is doing much better too. If that's the bothersome ear in the picture, it looks better than you had previously described. If you bring the RV to CF, I will hope DOG comes along.
Bill
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Nice to know Dog is sympathizing with me; after all it is his/her distant cousin that cased this whole mess. :lolb:
You do know that 3 jaw thingy is pretty good at holding hex stock?? I think you are just making excuses to work on the engine.
Good to see an update on the 6, are you planning lap the cross head bore; or is she good to go as is?
Dave
PS. what's in Dog's ear?
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Yeah but when I get down to making 3/16" headed bolts they get lost in that 6" chuck :lolb: I may run a 600 grit homemade lap down it. It's cast on cast, so I want a little oil retention and it seems to be true enough.
Whiskey
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That is excellent! I think we have the same philosophy: Whatever works.
I still can't decide which is more "challenging." Your bigass quarter horse or Elmer's Tiny Parts.
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Whiskey,
If you have one, a 7/32 round collet works quite well with 3/16 hex if the stock has reasonably sharp corners and you don't try to hold very short lengths.
Looking good BTW.
Gail in NM
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Go ahead with your self my brother, that turned out good. I bet the dog had a lot to do with keeping your butt straight. Leave it to a redneck to come up with a solution. :lolb:
:cheers: Don
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Nice job on a difficult boring job. Keep it going :cheers:
Phil
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Thanks guys for stopping in. Dave that is a drain in DOG's ear, he had a hematoma in that ear. I probably could have made the bolts, but, the guide was there and it's been troubling me and I was feeling brave enough to tackle it. Gail, thanks. I'll look, but, I don't think I have any 32nd collets. Collets are on my CF shopping list. Stan, know what you mean, those 0-80 and 2-56's size builds are fun, yet tedious. I have to say I've really enjoyed working on something a little bigger this time. Don, there are many ways to do almost anything and I figure it is a bad idea only if it doesn't work :lolb:. And yes, with DOG spending so much time with Lou right now, I think she maybe bribing him tell on me :lolb: :lolb:.
Y'all come back to see us,
Whiskey
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Well folks I was able to get a little done this weekend, however, I feel like I'm moving slower than a stoned turtle. I finished the split collet and mounted the flywheel to the crank and gave it a test spin and it spins quite freely. I should have used 3 retaining bolts and 3 holes for press out, but, it looked like too many holes in that small part. Now I see why I should have anyway, but, this one works and I'll leave it for now. I then started back on the guide. Mounted it to an angle plate and brought the feet to the correct height to center. Then I was ready to lay out the cylinder to guide mounting holes and I hit one of those "OMG, it's been 35 years " since I had to use trig moments. I've been lucky enough to be able to use the DRO on the work I've done so far to lay out bolt circles, but, these six holes aren't evenly spaced. Out came the machinist handbook and after a lot of cussing, fretting, and a couple of beers, I arrived at an answer and called it a day. Next morning, still unsure of myself, I got the DRO manual out and found a function allowing me to use it. The DRO and I came up with the same answer, but, I wasted way too much darn time; due to the fact of too many wasted brain cells :LittleDevil: and this will give Marv an open invitation to pick on me. I didn't take any pics on day two, as I was in a funk (hey, I could have called it "the zone") :lolb:. Well, here's a picky or tree and thanks for stopping in.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140302_110031519_zpsf63a5c8f.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140302_110031519_zpsf63a5c8f.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140302_112935023_HDR_zps08b8eb25.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140302_112935023_HDR_zps08b8eb25.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140302_113024004_zps6d3c8860.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140302_113024004_zps6d3c8860.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140302_135557336_zps71809142.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140302_135557336_zps71809142.jpg.html)
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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The beastie is coming along very well Eric, and the pictures are superb !! The fact that both you and the DRO arrived at the same answer is encouraging also :o. Only goes to show that beans and pork BBQ are brain foods!! Keep after it...it really is looking good.
Bill
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The DRO and I came up with the same answer, but, I wasted way too much darn time;
Not at all. You proved out the DRO. :lolb:
What is the purpose of that slit?
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The slit allows the collet to contract and grip the shaft as it's drawn into the hub.
Whiskey
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Nice going my brother, the fact that your moving slow is no problem here. This is a hobby and we are not in any kind of rush. It is purely enjoyment or R & R as we know it. By the way nice job on the hub. Keep those photos come because I like........... :praise2:
Don
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:facepalm:
I'd forgotten it was tapered.
Thanks.
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I really like the tapered hub, nice job. When I graduated from set screws to keyways, I thought I could retire :old:. Now I've got to go back and do some homework on this technique. :Doh:
Cheers,
Phil
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This one is looking excellent! What's the OD of the flywheel hub? I've kind of given up on making a taper lock for the mill engine. The OD of my flywheel hub is less than .5" with a .25" shaft. I'm betting Gail could make one in that size.
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That is going to be a very handsome engine Whiskey. You have paid attention to all the details in the right places.
Gail in NM
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Thanks for checking in guys. Phil, I have used these in real life back when I was just a pup, working for my Dad in the paper mills. Now, the problem with the way I did the four holes (PPE) is when you cut the slit, one bolt pulls up the collet tighter than the other bolt. Now, just a tap wit a soft mallet will set it straight, it's jus PPE. Stan, the shaft is .625 and the hub is around 1.25" , 6.875" flywheel. Don't remember actually to the ... And we've had 4" of sleet/hail and 2" of snow. Things is kinda wacky here. Hell, Gail could get a 64 pin dividing wheel on the face of this collet :lolb:. Hey Roadrunner, you have to when you're being watched by the best 8). Hey, Sadie is on the phone and I gotta go. :Jester:
Thanks guys,
Whiskey
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Well, here's my Monday update, pitiful, pitiful. Let's just say a lot of interruptions :slap: :censored:. I, for some unknown reason, decided to turn the outside cylinder head. It went just ducky, so, I got back to my game plan of working my way from the crank forward and started on the connecting rod. It's a beautiful bronze casting and was very easy to center on the bosses and have metal to work with. I managed to get the fork made, drilled, and reamed. The darn thing is 7.120" from center to center, so, I've got to mount it to an angle plate and stand it up to drill, tap, and split the big end, at least that's my plan as of now. That's as far as I made it today, it's sunny and 70 degrees F. I got beer to drink and polish sausage to grill :DrinkPint: :lolb:
Here's y'all some piccys.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140310_135043966_zps7f0e3666.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140310_135043966_zps7f0e3666.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140310_141219110_HDR_zpsf729a746.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140310_141219110_HDR_zpsf729a746.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140310_142456573_zpsc05e22e7.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140310_142456573_zpsc05e22e7.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140310_150926588_zpsffb69b70.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140310_150926588_zpsffb69b70.jpg.html)
Thanks for stopping in and y'all come back now you hear,
Whiskey
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Looking good Eric!! I like those little machinist's jacks in the first picture too. How is the grizzly vise working out?
Bill
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Oh! You were posting some progress, I was just admiring that new vise. :lolb: Your just to cool my brother and that is looking great. You know I like............ :praise2:
Don
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Nice looking
rod Con rod there buddy!.......phew!....almost had a international incident there! 8)
Booboo is turning some nice finish there!
Dave
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Thanks guys for stopping in. Bill and Don, the 4" vice I've had for awhile. I bought a 6" when I bought the mill, but, it was way to big. It made its way to the assembly table and has been really useful there. This 4" seems to have a touch of jaw lift, I think is what you call it. When tightening a piece it takes a couple extra taps with a mallet to lock it against the parallel on the moving jaw side. Dave, I'm happy as a hog in slop with BooBoo and those tool bits I ask about a few post back love CI. On a redneck side note: When I took my shower after turning all that cast the smell of CI filled the air in the shower. Do y'all ever notice this or is my smeller weird. :Lol:
Y'all come see us,
Whiskey
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On a redneck side note: When I took my shower after turning all that cast the smell of CI filled the air in the shower. Do y'all ever notice this or is my smeller weird.
Outdoor shower with cast iron piping? You might try installing running water. :ROFL:
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I think the purpose of building this engine is to get indoor plumbing.
Are you sure the shower wasn't flood coolant? :lolb:
The CI finish is very nice. Big parts on a small mill are challenging. Keep plugging.
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You've got CI dust in the nose. Get yourself a nette pot.....or....well you can use the tool of your choice?.... :lolb:
Dave
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And keep your eye on the shower tray or SWMBO will be after you
You wil get a rust stain on the tray even if you have rinsed it carefully a swab out with citric acid or cilit bang sorts it out
I am banished to washing my hand in a bucket if I have worked with CI. Evan got that to go rusty :censored:
Stuart
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Monday, it's whiskey time. All in all it was a pretty good weekend in the shed. I finished off the eccentric and realize this was the only piccy I had. Thanks Arnold for the mill tip. I have used on the lathe, but, never thought about it for the mill.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140316_052216057_HDR_zpsafa3d862.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140316_052216057_HDR_zpsafa3d862.jpg.html)
I then decided to finish off the connecting rod. This sucker is long, 7.12" center to center. I mounted it to an angle plate and used half of an adjustable parallel to shim it true. It worked well for drilling and tapping, but not so good for the slitting saw, wound up sawing it by hand.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140316_065034327_zpsd9586754.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140316_065034327_zpsd9586754.jpg.html)
With the rod finished I started on the cross head. It was sent cast with the eccentric strap and after separating there was nothing left to chuck in the lathe. I moved it to the mill and drilled and tapped to the print and mounted it to threaded arbor.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140316_133559467_zps2d33a56c.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140316_133559467_zps2d33a56c.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140316_140711744_HDR_zps7b1dd9fd.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140316_140711744_HDR_zps7b1dd9fd.jpg.html)
I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the oil hole details. I know y'all will set me straight. Oh yeah, I made the bolt also.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140316_154352922_zps145884e2.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140316_154352922_zps145884e2.jpg.html)
With that almost finished and while waiting on :help:, I started the eccentric strap.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/c868c715-eeb2-4d00-82b9-5721043d913f_zpsdff48fb8.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/c868c715-eeb2-4d00-82b9-5721043d913f_zpsdff48fb8.jpg.html).
I put it in the mill and did all I could to it there.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140317_103646087_HDR_zps70889a8c.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140317_103646087_HDR_zps70889a8c.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140317_105852457_HDR_zps7d0f732b.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140317_105852457_HDR_zps7d0f732b.jpg.html)
I got ready to clock it up in the 4 jaw and knocked a good tight fitting plug to center on and then, say it with me Zee, AW CRAP. The rod end was bigger than the strap.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140317_155037542_zps7d7d9fa7.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140317_155037542_zps7d7d9fa7.jpg.html).
Not to be out done I brazed the little sucker back together and a little fettling and it will all be good.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/b26b58cd-c3bc-4f36-96f1-e9e426442367_zpsdfd957c6.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/b26b58cd-c3bc-4f36-96f1-e9e426442367_zpsdfd957c6.jpg.html).
I did get it bored and fitted to the eccentric, but, I was so shook I forgot pics.
That's about it for the weekend. I'll look forward to my :help: on the cross head oil holes and I thank y'all for stopping in. This episode is brought to you by Marv's Martini Bar. The A/C is on and the beach volleyball is hot. Don't forget free olives with yo martinis all week long.
Thanks Guys,
Whiskey
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say it with me Zee, AW CRAP.
Consider it said. Easy enough...I say it all the time.
I can't help you with the help. I'm sure people will pop in.
Glad to hear you had a good weekend in the shop. Looks good from my point of view.
And don't encourage Marv and those martinis. He doesn't make them right. :ROFL:
He uses something called 'gin'.
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Looking good my brother and nice save. I believe the oil holes are one straight through at a 9/16" height and the other 5/16" height and at 60 degrees going up. The straight hole is side to side then turn 90 degrees and drill the 60 degree angle hole to center.
I hope that helps.
Don
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Hey Bud!
Do yourself a favor. Take a little diversion, and get yourself a 2 or 3 pieces of 3/4 or 1" thick aluminum plate. Say 4 x 8" smaller for little machines...bigger for bigger machines..... They don't need to be anything particularly special Cast Aluminum Jig plate is sweet to use though.
Mill the plates square and parallel, and then face the big faces flat and parallel. Use a flycutter, and take your time.
Now, on a 3/4" spacing....or so....you decide.....drill a grid of 0.203 holes. Drill them nice and clean and use a new drill...Let the drill do the cutting...don't force it. Then bring it over to the drill press and with a countersink knock the corners off the holes.... 0.03 x 45 ...or so. Get rid of the burr and the slight rise around the hole that every drill makes.
Now you have a fixture plate, and because it's aluminum It's disposable. Tap the holes that you use 1/4-20. You can do them all at once, or just tap them as you need them. But use a tap guide so they are tapped square.
They mount in the mill vise, or on an angle plate. The sweet part of this is that they are square and parallel...so you can mount a part to be machined on it, and instead of moving the part, you move the plate. WAY more secure than trying to hold on to an irregular part in a mill vise.
The conrod would be easy with one of these...to say nothing of the eccentric strap. You can turn up a button with a bolt hole in the middle and put the strap on the button. ....ect.
Worth their weight in gold.
Now get yourself a bunch of 1/4-20 nuts bolts and screws. make up some little straps...nothing fancy just bar stock with a slot and a tapped hole....
I dare you to not figure out a way to strap anything to one of these buggers....if it doesn't seem obvious, mill out a feature right in the fixture plate....it's expendable....you make up more as you need them.
If you must mount something irregular in a mill vise, get yourself a couple of pieces of lead flashing, or dead soft copper flashing. Line the jaws with this soft sheet and then grab the part. It'll stay put then. Once you get a surface flat you can mount it to a fixture plate....know what I mean Vern?
You'll be wondering what to do with all the time you'll save.
Your Northern Redneck....
Dave
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Your Northern Redneck....
Is there such a thing? ;D
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Hey! I'm on roll!.... 8)
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Yeah Zee, they are just like the opossums that were mentioned the other day, they are working their way north annually. :lolb:. I have Dave in training and he is doing great :lolb: Dave, they are on the list. As a matter of fact I have made a smaller one, rod was too big though. Eccentric strap was a breeze, if I had just looked before I knocked my plug in. :facepalm:
Whiskey
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Ya come up see me in Woostah......oK? 8)
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they are just like the opossums
It's the armadillos that get me. Growing up in southwest Missouri...you never saw one.
But for the last few years...you see one by the side of the road every several miles.
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I'd say you had a great weekend Eric !! That's a lot of progress and aside from the little glitch (nice save by the way), its all looking very nice. About time for a new family shot isn't it :)
Bill
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Thanks guys. Don, I think I'm seeing it now, I think, thanks. Bill, I'll try to get one today, got some beer brewing work to do in the shop, so, I'll snap a couple. I realized I need to work on my brazing skills or I'm going to get real good with a file :Lol:. Zee, first time I went to Texas I freaked over the armadillo. They called them Texas possums. Did you know that the automobile is both the possum and armadillo's worst enemy :Jester:
Whiskey
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Did you know that the automobile is both the possum and armadillo's worst enemy
And skunk, squirrel, turtles, woolie worms, frogs...
And around here...deer.
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Nice work and a good save for the eccentric strap. Thanks for the update
Cheers,
Phil
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Phil, thanks for stopping in. Bill, here's the family shot sans the cross head guide, it's on the mill table and I really hated to break it loose till I get the bolt holes drilled.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140318_140216056_zps7ad6f29d.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140318_140216056_zps7ad6f29d.jpg.html)
Whiskey
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Thanks Eric...most impressive too!!! So where's the beer hanging out??
Bill
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Thanks Bill. I'm going to try to bring some to CF. My only problem is I'm drinking it faster than I can make it :LittleDevil:
Whiskey
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Looking good Eric!
I still not sure exactly sure how you broke that eccentric strap, but nice save anyway.
Dave
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You're missing some nuts.
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Ya gotta bring the nuts....and the beer!.......oh an nice engine...what does it do? :LittleDevil:
Dave
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Well see Dave the end that attaches to the linkage is larger than the round part that holds the eccentric, when I gave my centering plug that last "gentle slap" with the bronze hammer, boom, two pieces :Doh:.
Zee, I had Lou check just to make sure. She confirms that I stole a couple from the bearing pillars for fitting pouposes, yet the others seem to be right where she uh I mean I left them :lolb:. Steamer, I'm making my "bring to list",but, I never go anywhere without my nuts :lolb: :lolb:. It keeps me from choking some poor bast$$d :lolb:. You ever try to satisfy 1000+ people a day, work 14 women, and have your wife as your business partner 8)
Whiskey
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"... You ever try to satisfy 1000+ people a day, work 14 women, and have your wife as your business partner 8)"
:lolb: Nope!
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That is looking exceptional. If you don't get to frettling the braze, bring it up and we'll have Oliver do it.
Dave is bang on with the grid plate. I made mine as a learning exercise in power tapping. Can't believe how much I've used it. The small one is great for tiny parts. I need to make a larger one.
Keep on it. The damn thing looks like an engine.
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Surprise, surprise, surprise, a hump day shot of Whiskey. I had a good day at work, the girls must want something; aw yeah it's raise time :Lol:. I thought I'd go over to the shed and knock out a couple of easy peasy pieces, the upper and lower linkages. Now, I know that I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer and my social skills are sometimes lacking, hey, I'm from the South, cook BBQ for a living, and ride a Harley, however, my basic math skills are pretty good, so, I'm going to see if it's me or do y'all see something wrong with this picture.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140319_154631895_zpsc313a5b9.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140319_154631895_zpsc313a5b9.jpg.html)
Now I know it's only .005", but, I had to sleep on this to see if it really made a difference. I don't think so, but, it just ain't right :Argue:. So, I made the oil cups for the crank bearings. Simple turning, drilling, and shaping. Guess what, I didn't stuff either one of them, well I don't think I did anyway.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140319_165046325_HDR_zps2df2cf17.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140319_165046325_HDR_zps2df2cf17.jpg.html)
Thank y'all for looking. Come back to see us now you hear.
Whiskey
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So does this mean your not going to use drip oilers? :shrug: The oil cups look good though.
Don
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Well Whiskey, unless you are talking about the difference between .375" and .38" I ain't seeing it...but it has been a long day and my focus this week has been on beam math, area moments of inertia, and deflection calculations...so my focus may be all out of whack.
Bill
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I'm an old hot rod nut Don; get her running and then soup it up ;). Now how bout them dimensions on the linkages? First correct answer gets free beer ( on Steamer :lolb:) Too late while I was posting Bill saw it. Free beer for Bill (on you Dave)
Whiskey
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Whiskey, I'll count on the beer. but I have found it fairly typical of PRM and some others as well...they round the nominal dimension up to .38 rather than taking it out to 3 decimal places. I think even for hobby work, three decimal places isn't too much, but there are a lot of drawings out there that will say. .063 instead of .0625, or .188 instead of .1875. (yes I know that is a rounding of the 4th decimal place but the idea is the same. I have always told my students that if is looks like .375 and quacks like .375 but is shown as .38...its probably .375 unless there is a darn good reason for it not to be. Come to think of it, maybe some of our firearm experts here would know if a 38 caliber bullet is actually .375 instead.
Bill
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Well Bill you did better then me, cause I just didn't see it but I do now. There material must be .38 square.
Don
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Don, brass can be over a bit, but I betting its .375 within +/-.001. Eric can measure it and tell us that. As I recall when I was working on the Rider Ericsson, Clarence Myers or whoever did his drawings sometimes rounded to the closest 2 decimal places, particularly on well known stock sizes like 3/8" in this case. It seems kind of a cop out to me but on the other hand I see a lot of students dimensioning drawings to 5 or 6 decimal places when they don't have a possums chance on the interstate of holding anywhere close to that.
Bill
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I see what you are saying Bill. So, does that really make the radius .1875 instead of.190 Yes Bill it's dead nuts. 375
Whiskey
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Possum's chance on the interstate :lolb: :lolb:. Got to write that one down
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Yep...if the parent stock is .375 then the correct radius would be .1875 or else it wouldn't be a smooth transition from the flat side to the rounded end. Those NY PMR folks are just trying to confuse us southern boys but we aren't as dumb as they think :lolb:
Bill
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Well I could have said a snowballs chance in "hades" but I was trying to be family oriented :ROFL:
Bill
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Grandmaw used that one a lot
Me
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Well I could have said a snowballs chance in "hades" but I was trying to be family oriented :ROFL:
Bill
Roger on that Bill.
Don
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A redneck swarf rat...
We now return you to Erics regularly scheduled programming :)
Bill
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Hell yea! He even looks like Eric doesn't he. :lolb: my bad my brother.
Don
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Hey Eric
The number of decimal places should correlate directly with the tolerance of the dimension. Usually 3 places is plus or minus .005" (although I have seen plus or minus .002 on some of the parts I machine). Usually two places indicate plus or minus .02". For a home shop ME it really isn't a big deal but if you are machining parts for a living and quoting jobs this can be a big deal; as you are required to hold these tolerances.
If you really want to piss off the machinist just put 3 and 4 place decimals on parts that are stock sizes or really don't need that precision. In the case of the linkage parts all the two place decimal dimensions aren't that critical but you notice the slot width which is more critical is called out at 3 places.
Look at the title block and there should be a key as to what the designer had intended as the tolerance.
Nowadays guys don't understand this and will set their CAD program to dimension everything the same not knowing that 3 or 4 places really mean something; and if you are quoting their part it also greatly effects the price of the part. When I get a print sent to my shop for a quote this is one of the first things I look at. Lots of times it is just a matter of asking the engineer or designer if that level of precision is really necessary.
Some of the old model drawings are all dimensioned as fractional and the ultimate tolerance is left up to the guy building the model.
Does this mean that I owe Bill L. a beer? :lolb:
Best regards,
Dave
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Did somebody say beer?.... :cheers:
8)
Unfortunately....MY profession is guilty as charged on the print tolerance front...Though I try hard to be much better than that.
Dave
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What I have found is that while the parts can fit and work, having the dimension off by that much can really lead to "appearance errors": curves don't line on tangents, slots are off center, etc.
Alan
-
It's five o'clock somewhere. Here's your Monday whiskey. I knocked out the valve rod linkages. I was quite pleased wit 'em
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140323_105747877_HDR_zpsac010820.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140323_105747877_HDR_zpsac010820.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_130421394_zps79d74dac.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_130421394_zps79d74dac.jpg.html)
I decided to move on to a little bit bigger parts and give BooBoo a work out. I picked the cylinder heads. The collet chuck was on BooBoo so I tried out my 5c 3 jaw. I think it worked treat.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140323_164638900_zpsf1ea6f09.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140323_164638900_zpsf1ea6f09.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_130454840_zps99f38f45.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_130454840_zps99f38f45.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_130546093_HDR_zps59a1dcd1.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_130546093_HDR_zps59a1dcd1.jpg.html)
So, while I'm on a roll, I shut my eyes and took a deep breath and grabbed the cylinder. The fellar is purty hefty. I used one of my expanding mandrels buried deep in the rough bore to face both ends to dimension.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg.html)
I then got my longest boring bar and it was just long enough. I used the mandrel, a spring center and a DI and a la Klotz, in the four jaw, the bore was ready for applied cutting forces.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_113926975_HDR_zpsd8d3fd27.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_113926975_HDR_zpsd8d3fd27.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_124721849_zpse2e713ff.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_124721849_zpse2e713ff.jpg.html)
The bore turned out great. Well y'all know how us Rednecks are, I bored it .030" over. Well that's my excuse :lolb:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_130258207_zps38f1e850.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_130258207_zps38f1e850.jpg.html)
I'm whittling the parts down quicker than I thought. I still have a bunch (not by Jo's standards) of studs and nuts to make and a bunch of finishing yet. Maybe, just maybe, it will be a running "work in progress" at CF. OK, the UPS man just ran, Stan, ain't got a clue what his name is :lolb:. I see Y'all later and come back to see us now you hear,
Whiskey
-
Crankin' ' em out. You're really on a roll now. We all want to see it at CF in whatever state it's in.
Just noticed that the sun is over the yardarm. Time for some fine Scottish produce.
-
So, while I'm on a roll, I shut my eyes and took a deep breath and grabbed the cylinder. The fellar is purty hefty. I used one of my expanding mandrels buried deep in the rough bore to face both ends to dimension.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg.html)
:o Hey Big E, I am a little concerned. Normal practise is to face one end then mount that flat against your face plate to ensure that the other end and the bore are all square to each other. Are you sure that poking your expanding mandrel in an unfinished bore will result in it being true?
Jo
-
Also best practice is to machine the end covers after the bore so you can make them a good fit which keeps the piston rod concentric to the bore
-
So, while I'm on a roll, I shut my eyes and took a deep breath and grabbed the cylinder. The fellar is purty hefty. I used one of my expanding mandrels buried deep in the rough bore to face both ends to dimension.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_112058533_HDR_zps1f0f91da.jpg.html)
:o Hey Big E, I am a little concerned. Normal practise is to face one end then mount that flat against your face plate to ensure that the other end and the bore are all square to each other. Are you sure that poking your expanding mandrel in an unfinished bore will result in it being true?
Jo
OH NO! Looks like the Hounds of baskerville are on your trail my brother. :lolb: You have sure made some progress there even with that little oops. I am digging it any way.
Don
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It's five o'clock somewhere.
Just noticed that the sun is over the yardarm. Time for some fine Scottish produce.
I was going to start this with a...
"Time? You guys watch the time?"
or...
"You people can TELL time?" (Oh man...that one's going to get me a PM. I just know it.) >:D
And then I realized...no clock involved.
Just a 'somewhere' and a 'sun'.
My kind of people. I'm enjoying a 'stinking hoppie' with you all.
Keep at it my friend. CF is just around the corner.
-
Thanks guys for looking in. Jo and Jason, I guess since all my tooling is brand new or near a bouts I trust it to be true to within tolerance. When facing the cylinder ends I made sure that that were back flush to the chuck jaws and when I clocked it in the four jaw to bore there was less than a thou runout on the face, I did check it, just didn't take the piccys to prove it. The inboard cylinder head was turned after the crosshead guide and is a beautiful fit to the guide. Now if I center the bore of the cylinder and the piston rod spigot on the mill and my DRO is within a tenth of a thou or two when I drill the bolt holes theorectically I should be close enough. I guess I also put to much faith in a print, because I make the part as close as I can to it and just expect it to work. I really do appreciate the tips from you seasoned builders because it makes me think about these things on the next build and after all it is a hands on learning journey. Stan, I'll catch some safety crap over this, but, I sip some of me home brewed beer out of a Mason jar to keep the CI dust washed out, not enough to impair, just enough to wet the whistle 8).
Zee, I'll have the "hoppie", but you are gonna have to bring the "stinking", I can't find them damn cocktail onions anywhere :lolb:. Don, I'm on the Stan and Chuck Fellows diet, and by the way, I drilled the oil hole in the cross head also and after your help it was crystal clear. Thanks. Well boys thanks for looking and I got to go. The Enco box had some soft jawed spiders :naughty: and some awful aggressive looking taps in it that I need to fondle. If you ask nicely I'll show you some piccys of what was in the box :lolb:
THANKS Guys,
Whiskey
-
If you ask nicely I'll show you some piccys of what was in the box
Pretty please?
I'll show you mine if you show me yours.
;D
-
Nice Eric...very nice. YOu are really making some fine progress n this one!! Hope you have a big compressor to keep her running :)
Bill
-
OK Zee, here's mine. Here is what was in the box. I needed some taps, 10-32 and 1/4-28 in plug and bottom. I've seen Stan and a couple of more using this version of tap, so, I thought I'd try 'em. They are OSG. I think I have heard they require a larger hole than a standard tap, maybe someone will weigh in. I hated to oreder just the taps and waste a 20% coupon and free shipping and I have always wanted a set of these spiders. Anodized ali, with magnets to hold them back against the chuck. And finally the soft jaws. I didn't to enough research before I ordered these. The description said for 6 Chinese chucks. I figured that was what came on BooBoo. Well, I either don't know what to do with them or they don't fit, the bolt spacing even isn't the same.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_182508247_zpsc181f89f.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_182508247_zpsc181f89f.jpg.html)
Now, I've been real jealous of Stan's power drawbar and there ain't no way to mount one on my mill. So, I came up with a Redneck solution, here's the "Redneck Power Drawbar" :lolb:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140324_190655168_zps0f1b0bcb.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140324_190655168_zps0f1b0bcb.jpg.html)
See Ya,
Whiskey
-
Drat. You called my bluff. I got nothin'.
Nothin' I can show here anyway.
See you at CF. ;D
Is the bolt spacing different enough that you can modify them?
here's the "Redneck Power Drawbar"
For some reason...reminds me of some last words on tombstones I've seen...
"Watch this"
"No problem"
"Nah...it's safe"
"This'll be easy"
"This might work"
:lolb:
-
Or...
Hold my beer and watch this!
-
Dear Beer Guzzler
The spiral flute taps use standard tap drill size. It's the form taps that need a bigger hole.
I spent my Enco money and 20% on the Aloris tool post and BXA holders. I have coveted those Royal spiders. Next 20%.
That's the same "power drawbar" I had on the BF20 mill. Started with a Harbor Fright model but it was killing my hearing. The Aircat (which is now used to swap vise jaws) is as quiet as the Ingersoll Rand but WAY less money.
-
Stan, I'll catch some safety crap over this, but, I sip some of me home brewed beer out of a Mason jar to keep the CI dust washed out, not enough to impair, just enough to wet the whistle 8).
I could say foolish :hellno:, more likely to say stupid and I have seen the tangled knots that you get yourself in when you are totally sober.
:Director: Alcohol and workshops must never be mixed :slap:.
Jo
-
OK, let me clarify. Seriously on the occasion that I use the fruit jar, it is left in the fridge and one beer can last 6 or 8 hours. As Jo said I pull enough stupid tricks stone sober. It's just a good dust cutter, Hell I get more effect from the lay out fluid :LittleDevil: :lolb:. And besides now that I've reached that magic age, with the water and tea I drink, Mother Nature don't let it linger for long 8)
Whiskey
-
I think I have heard they require a larger hole than a standard tap, maybe someone will weigh in.
For THREAD FORMING TAPS the formula for the required tap drill is:
d = td - 0.0068*dot/p
where:
d = tap drill diameter
td = nominal tap diameter
dot = depth of thread expressed as percentage
p = pitch expressed as tpi
Example: A 1/4-20 tap with 75% depth of thread...
d = 0.25 - 0.0068*75/20 = 0.2245
-
Just found this Eric and have to say it looks great! Castings look good too, or at least you are making them look good. On the drawing front I would expect to see dimensions to 3d.p for imperial i.e. 1 thou, however I think the confusion comes where people are using fractional stock sizes etc - what happens when you have 3/32" bar or something you then suddenly have 5d.p but can anyone hold tolerances like that - not really, by rounding that to 0.094 it's only 1/4 of a thou difference and most imperial measurement equipment will measure to 1 thou. It could potentially cause an issue with limits and fits but most model engineering drawings aren't toleranced anyway so rely on the builder to interpret that bit. I personally like to see the number of decimal places consistent throughout a drawing.
-
As always, I'm a day late and a dollar short. I know all of you wait patiently each Monday for your "Shot of Whiskey" :lolb:. Well, I'm working like I'm killing snakes to try to get this beast to at least be running for CF. So, BOGO beer tonight only :DrinkPint:. I took a few pics, but my mind and body are on a mission :Jester:. I'm finishing up the last 10% that takes 50% of the time. I've made studs and nuts, while waiting on a 5/8" reamer (Enco ain't as fast as they once were). I turned up the valve heads (.0005" under), they fit; and using Jason's advice, waited to drill me valve rod hole till it was centered on the bore. There just ain't a whole lot left to make; some studs, some nuts, some clearance drilling, and it needs a good big dose of AIR. Bill Lindsey, here's a shot of the crank moving the crosshead: moves by finger pressure
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140328_160944085_zps0e8ef6f8.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140328_160944085_zps0e8ef6f8.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140401_155130297_HDR_zps9ed06976.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140401_155130297_HDR_zps9ed06976.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140401_160954060_HDR_zpsbd1039ad.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140401_160954060_HDR_zpsbd1039ad.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140401_162236864_HDR_zpsfe897b4a.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140401_162236864_HDR_zpsfe897b4a.jpg.html)
Nick, thanks for bringing the thread back up. This engine was meant to be built by hobby machinist way back in the day. Most would be shocked at how much "tolerance" the engines will actually "run" with ;). Hey, y'all thanks fer a stopping in and come back to see us now you hear.
Whiskey
-
As always, I'm a day late and a dollar short.
Bad news for us expecting beans at CF. Please break that rut.
At least shorten the day.
If you're still a dollar short...make sure 'L' is around and no one will care. ;D
We might even help you out.
You've got some good headroom on that mill. No way could I get a reamer like that in mine.
Remind me what it (the mill) is.
-
You are still making great progress Eric. Ifin it ain't runnin by CF just bring it as it is...its still most impressive to me. You have really done a bang up job on this one and it shows even in the pictures !!
Bill
-
Looking pretty darn nice Eric!
Thanks for the update.
Dave
-
I gotta agree with Bill, that is one impressive engine and your work appears to be top notch. :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
-
Well hell! You better kill some more snakes to get it running for CF. :lolb: Really brother your doing a jam up job on this one. I'll drink a couple for you tonight.
Don
-
Thanks guys for looking in. It will be there in one shape, form, or fashion; as my Granny used to say. Zee, don't fret, in 17 years I've never flubbed a catered event; BBQ, beans and fix'ns at the campground Saturday for lunch; we'd say dinner. Oh yeah, bring your own fruit jar :lolb: : :lolb:
Whiskey
-
This is an " oh yeah Zee" moment. I looked at that reamer when UPS dropped it off, it was too late to think about using it. As I lay snuggled in me bed, I'm thinking about the reamers I've cut and your fake photo of one cut. For what this sucker cost I sure was dreading the cut off, then it came to me, "Collets" you dumb a$$. Put it in a 1/2" R8 collet and had plenty of room. Ah, the cost of education :lolb:
Whiskey
-
you dumb a$$.
Whiskey
I think that is a common expression among model engineers. I know I use it a lot. Unfortunately the moments of inspiration don't come in equal numbers. Lately it has been associated with "now that you have drawn it how are you going to make it".
Seriously, your build looks great. Best of luck on your CF deadline. It sure looks like you are right on schedule.
Gail in NM
-
Give it hell Eric!....I remember the first show I brought my launch engine too. I was up for 3 days prior to that without sleep...work all day, then go home and work in the shop till 6 am.....then go back to work. I made it, but I was a basket case.
Dave
-
OK folks, fourth quarter, last lap, no time outs and no time to pit. I'm down to threading and bending one of the valve linkage rods and some fasteners. I may have to resort to some SHCS to get it to run. As it was drawn to use cheese head screws, I'm running into some clearance issues on the nuts for the studs, gonna have to make a JasonB backside spot facing cutter and may not have time. Also my 5-50 die nut,, made in China ain't cutting it when it comes to cutting threads, a machine cut screw screws right in, my cut threads don't, so, the valve heads may have screws. Now, in the piccy I'm posting everything is just "kinda" fastened together, it does turn over by hand, but, does have a tight spot or two. Ain't nothing a quart of oil and an hour or two of running in won't fix :lolb: :lolb:. Bill Lindsey, here's your "family shot" :cheers:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140403_162547469_zps8521b612.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140403_162547469_zps8521b612.jpg.html)
Thank y'all for stopping in and come back to see us now you hear,
Whiskey
-
Looking great Eric. Bring it to CF whether finished or not.
Also my 5-50 die nut,, made in China ain't cutting it when it comes to cutting threads, a machine cut screw screws right in,
Where are those machine cut screws made? :thinking: ;D
I see you have a paper towel holder on the wall just like me.
I see you are an under-roller.
You ever have cats?
-
Looks great my brother. Just like Carl said, bring it whether you finish it or not. It doesn't matter we will like it as is. You have made some amazing progress on it and done a jam up red neck job. Hey Eric! I like....... :praise2:
Don
-
I like the family shot Eric...you are getting really close. You and me and Zee gonna have to have a session at CF though...paper towels should roll off the front not the back :lolb:
Bill
-
That's looking awesome Tatah!....Keep it up bud...your almost there!
Dave
-
Yo Redneck,
It even looks great upside down. So.........all classic steam engines have names, what's your engine gonna be christened as:
Riccy?
Revved up Redneck?
Sir Eric?
Tennessee Tsunami?
BBQ Spit Driver?
Mason Dixon Masterpiece?
Therapy?
And on.
Best Regards
Bob
-
Eric...you better pick one before someone does it for you!.... :ROFL:
Dave
-
Big E :mischief:
-
..... pronounced 'BIGGY'
-
OK,OK, I like bits of all the suggestions. How bout; "Big E's BBQ Spit Engine in 1/4 scale" or purty near it. Constructed By Sir Whiskey of Redneck Restorations :lolb: 8).
Zee and Bill, if you will notice that appears to be a new roll of towels. I used that towel holder to hang my OptiVisor on and I put it in the top of my tool box after using it the other day. Now I'm betting a cold beer that a certain "very caring and concerned >:D" wife replaced those towels, she's a bottom roller. Zee, those screw threads were probably in China also, but, I bet they weren't using the crap they sold me to cut them :naughty:.
Whiskey
-
How bout; "Big E's BBQ Spit Engine in 1/4 scale" or purty near it.
Or 'Biggy's Thingy' for short!
-
If it's going to be a spit engine it needs a mechanism to drive the spit and a boiler to sit on top of the BBQ to provide the team :LittleDevil:
Be warned Steam engine BBQ'ed lunch might attract more customers and you wouldn't want that :ShakeHead: when you should be making swarf.
Jo
-
Makes me reminisce about the steam powered Mararetia mixer we had at the Diamondhead International small scale steamup for Gauge 1 trains about a dozen or so years ago. About 3 gallon batches.
Gail in NM
-
Finally found something to keep him quiet, a nice set of castings. Keep working, Eric, CF is only a couple of weeks away.
Mosey
Looks great so far!
-
Only one week Mosey, less driving time from Nashville for Eric!!
Bill
-
Well, I got good news and I got bad news. First of all, there ain't no piccys, so, get over it :lolb:.. I have been flogging this SOB to get a runner in progress to take to Cabin Fever. When I got to the shop at 4a.m. This morning I basically had to make 8 studs and 16 nuts, 10-32 and try to time and start it. Knocked the nuts out to some 50's-60's country music and some Italian Roast coffee. I made one end of three studs and the start cap on BooBoo gave up the ghost, say it Zee, DRAT, CRAP. Needless to say you ain't gonna find one in small town U.S.A on a Sunday. Since the machining was over I started just digging for screws and nuts and whatevers and poured some Bailey's in me next coffee, well actually it was the other way around, hey, I was pissed. I got the fellar sealed up and after two valve adjustments, it stared running; bout shirt me britches. Now it's shimmy and a shaking, but, by God, it's a running. I'm turning off the coffee maker; just Bailey's now :cheers:
Whiskey
-
Congrats Eric. At least it runs.
Vince
-
First of all, there ain't no piccys, so, get over it
Well with an attitude like that...I'm not coming back until there ARE pictures. :Jester:
Of course that's a lie. I've got no leverage here. You got the beans and I want 'em.
-
Man just bring it! Wether it's a runner or not at least we get to see it. Now if it's running thats great, so you still have some time left to tidy it up. But no piccy's man that's the pits my brother. :stickpoke:
Don
-
Eric, Old Buddy,
In case you need a little encouragement, here are some pictures of the Silver Bullet in it's final stage, ready to start.
You will see that in spite of it's delicate condition, trimming of wires, fixing an oil leak, and the improbability that it will start, pictures are shown.
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0027_zpsec88d058.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0027_zpsec88d058.jpg.html)
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0029_zps91a8db2b.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0029_zps91a8db2b.jpg.html)
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0031_zpsbc16df2e.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0031_zpsbc16df2e.jpg.html)
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0035_zps03f7034b.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0035_zps03f7034b.jpg.html)
Do not fear, we are all behind you, you are doing a marvelous job, and WE WANT PICTURES!
MOSEY
-
NO PICTURES??!!?? ……. Get a rope…. That is just plain BS, ya knows what I'z mean here homes?……..BC1
Jim
-
:lolb:
It was this bit, I think, where you stepped on a toe or two... ;D
so, get over it
Having reasons for not providing pics is one thing...telling us to 'get over it' is another. :lolb:
All in good fun my friend. All in good fun.
(Cause I want the beans.)
-
Eric, Old Buddy,
In case you need a little encouragement, here are some pictures of the Silver Bullet in it's final stage, ready to start.
You will see that in spite of it's delicate condition, trimming of wires, fixing an oil leak, and the improbability that it will start, pictures are shown.
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0031_zpsbc16df2e.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/IMG_0031_zpsbc16df2e.jpg.html)
Do not fear, we are all behind you, you are doing a marvelous job, and WE WANT PICTURES!
MOSEY
Man your scaring me Mosey seeing those High voltage leads under the power leads. I hope those photos are just for show buddy.
Don
-
Yes, Don,
Just getting ready to trim all the leads and trim things up. Thanks for your concern.
Mosey
-
Looks great guys!
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OK folks I was just joking with the "get over it" comment, I even used the little laughing thingy :lolb: :lolb:. No ATTITUDE meant Zee. :ROFL: I went and picked up the start capacitor for BooBoo this morning and was getting ready to finish six studs and As Don said, tidy up a few things. In the process I bent the upper valve rod which bound up the valve and linkage and broke the repair I had made on the eccentric strap. Well, I just walked away, went and bitched to Lou and sat down and had a long talk with DOG about it and he said: "just fix it again" after we eat lunch meathead. So that's what I did and it's running again. Now Y'all know I wouldn't leave you without some visual entertainment, so, here it is in it's just running state.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL5pdnUJGuo
It's got a long way to go before I'll say it's finished, but, it is running and that's a good thang :DrinkPint:. Thanks for looking in and y'all come
back to see us now you hear.
Whiskey
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First it's no pics and then you invite us to watch a video that utube thinks we are not grown up enough to watch and says it private.
Gail in NM
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Hi,please make the video public. I have been following the build and have learned a lot. I would like to see it run, please :praise2:
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Try it now guys and let me know.
E
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Private. :'(
Sigh. ::)
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I think Whiskey mixed up his engine videos with his girlie videos and has it marked private so Lou won't find out.
But it's still private even after I flushed the cache.
Gail in NM
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Not sure what Eric has been filming here but hopefully he will let us in on it :LittleDevil:
Dave
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Aw Crap, try this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL5pdnUJGuo
Been that kinda day :lolb:
Whiskey
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Aw crap.
Still that kinda day.
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I don't know if this helps...
It's the button marked 'Public'. :lolb:
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Yeah and the one marked "publish, Your changes have been saved"
Pla it again Sam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=aL5pdnUJGuo
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Dam! Seem like a whole lot of complaining going on here. I can see the video and I happier than a pig with at trof full of slop. Looks good my brother can't wait to see it. I like.......... :praise2:
Don
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It all works now. Even the engine runs
Previous links that you gave all work now also.
Thanks. Now quit playing and get ready for CF.
Gail in NM
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Got it! Yay!
Looks great buddy and sounds good.
Can't wait to see it this weekend.
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Nice work buddy; looking good!
Dave
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Well Darn...I been makin' tee shirts for CF and missed all the fun and banter. At least the video worked the first time though :ROFL: Very nice Whiskey...looking forward to the live show too!!
Bill
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Big E looks like a runner 8)
Looking forward to seeing the spit roasting attachment for it. :naughty:
Jo
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Hi Whiskey,
Dame fine job you've done on that engine. Dog is a tuff task master, had one that was just the same! Give him a scratch behind the ear........I would suggest what my son calls an "ear whip" but can't do it let alone explain it!
Cheers Kerrin
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Thanks for looking in guys. Sorry about the video mix up, I don't deal with technology well sometimes, well most of the time. :killcomputer:. Y'all don't be disappointed when you see it in person, it is very much "a work in progress" and we've got some diagnostic work to do at CF while I have some real model makers there. Y'all come see us.
Whiskey
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It runs! :whoohoo: Congrats Eric! That's an exciting milestone for sure! And thanks for posting the video. It runs very nice and smooth. You should be feeling pretty chuffed about that!
Kim
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Already a nice runner, Eric. Chain & sprockets would be good for gearing it down to spit speed. :thinking:
Alan
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Thanks for the video Eric. We'll done. :praise2:
Vince
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Kim, Vince, and Alan, thanks for looking in. I feel likes it's a newborn, it's got all it's fingers and toes, it just ain't grown yet. I promised AussieJimG that if he was coming all the way from Australia, I'd get this engine to York. I've got work to do, there is some flywheel runout I'm not happy with and it's got a knock I can't put me finger on, but, it will run (or hope it does) at CF. I would like suggestions on a color scheme. To be honest, it looks good and industrial in it's natural cast state, well, for a BBQ spit turner :lolb:
Whiskey
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Great going Eric :ThumbsUp:
Colour.... Matt black; just stick it next to the BBQ pit for a couple of days and you won't have to do the primer & paint stuff ;)
Kind regards, Arnold
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Order, Order, OK, Now y'all all is listening :lolb:. Parts are going to the paint booth this weekend, come Hell or the crick rising. Can I get some color or (colour) input? Some of you has seen it and some has only seen pictures, eh Mosey, huh? :lolb: :lolb:. Seriously guys, what color are y'all thinking?
Whiskey
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South Bend Blue/grey, Machinery Maroon, British Racing Green, or Whatever.
My new little baby Die Filer is going to be Ford pickup powder blue metallic acrylic enamel to match the Daisy Derbyshire. Ha!
Mosey
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I like maroon or dark (hunter) green myself :)
Bill
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I like maroon or dark (hunter) green myself :)
Bill
Hell yea!
Don
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Traditionalists. Pooey.
;D
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Deep plum.
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Traditionalists. Pooey.
What were you thinking? Ashes of roses with mauve highlights, perhaps? Would that be un-pooey enough?
Hunter green, while attractive, is a bit too John Deere-ish. Far more regal is deep maroon with gold pin-striping. Pin-striping is essential.
But, knowing Eric, it will have flames and a bunch of NASCAR advertising on it.
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I'll start by saying that I assume this engine may eventually be a present. Perhaps to Lou. ;D
Not knowing her favorites (yet) I'll start with these...
teal
beryl
indigo
lilac
salmon
coral
thistle
....
Stay away from mauve and fuschsia as everyone seems to pronounce them differently. Also stay away from puce...just doesn't sound good even though it may be pretty. Same for cerulean.
And if Lou doesn't want it...I'd be a happy recipient. ;D
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Lou probably paid for the castings!
She may have already laid claim to it. :LittleDevil:
Dave
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Thanks for the input folks. Dave and Zee, to be honest Lou will act interested and put up with it all and say "oh that's nice"; deep down I suspect she couldn't give a big rat's butt. Drum roll please: So far the winner is Rubicelle Maroon, a deep maroon used on Packards in the 30's. I'm going to accent in black and perhaps Vermillion striping. I'm thinking about a big thick piece of walnut nicely finished for the base, if it looks good enough I might not even set my beer on it ;).
Whiskey,
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Oh Yeah Whiskey, that should look fantastic, especially with a walnut base. I googled the color and this is what came up...
Bill
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Yep that's my inspiration. Beautiful piece isn't it?
Whiskey
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Sure is, bet you got room in that great big GAR-aage to put one too...kinda like a Quarter Horse to Horseless Carriage display :)
Bill
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Looks good to me. And I like "Rubicelle" since that refers to a jewel which this engine surely represents :ThumbsUp:
Geez, all of a sudden we are getting very classy :Lol:
Cheers,
Phil
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Good choice my brother, I like it............ :ThumbsUp:
Don
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I shall quote myself...
Traditionalists. Pooey.
But seriously...that's going to look fantastic.
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Another vote for Rubicelle Maroon. Winner of the "Best Name for a Color This Year" award. Gold pin striping (not that crappy gold-like yellow: the real high-metal-solids paint). And, keep the damn beer off!
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Far more regal is deep maroon with gold pin-striping.
I like the above part of Marv's post, sounds very classy; and what's the point of making an old style engine and using modern colour schemes? The 19th and early 20th centuries were IMHO the age of elegance and craftsmanship, (just wish they took a bath more often :mischief: ).
Best Regards
Bob
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Maroon and gold, not a dissimilar colour to my DTC. Except I used the bronze of the castings to provide the pin striping ;)
Jo
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Oh Yeah Whiskey, that should look fantastic, especially with a walnut base. I googled the color and this is what came up...
Bill
steamah likey!
Dave
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Now just to let all y'all know that I have been working on more than my tan and dashing good looks :lolb:,here's what I've been up to. I tore the engine down after Cabin Fever and started polishing, fettling, and taping off. I've used me paint room for brewing beer all winter (thanks DaveOtto, had a blast),so, out comes the brewing thingees.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_144944852_zps6ea9d2ec.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_144944852_zps6ea9d2ec.jpg.html)
In goes the parts and primer spayed. I chose not to fill and sand and fill and sand and fill and sand, I wanted a castings look that some little company was proud of and made it look pretty.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_145013784_zps25f7e885.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_145013784_zps25f7e885.jpg.html)
After the primer has dried it's time to mix a little color. Without spending stupid money for a quart of Rubicelle Maroon, I matched it at the local auto paint store as close as I could. Off to the mixing table: " Nobody doesn't like Sarah Lee" ;)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_151552586_zps39b7d623.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_151552586_zps39b7d623.jpg.html)
And then you wind up with a bunch of Maroon parts
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_160223543_zpsf4581d9d.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_160223543_zpsf4581d9d.jpg.html)
So far the finish is looking all rite fer a redneck,
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_162530976_zpseb530476.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_162530976_zpseb530476.jpg.html)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/tennesseewhiskey1/IMG_20140508_162537117_zps141a0150.jpg) (http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/tennesseewhiskey1/media/IMG_20140508_162537117_zps141a0150.jpg.html)
Hey thanks for looking and I gotta go, Lou called for me out by the pool: Have y'all seen Enco's last sale catalogue? >:D :lolb: A man just has to do what a man has gotta do :cheers: ;) :lolb:
Whiskey
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That finish looks good. :ThumbsUp: Can't wait to see it all back together.
Cheers,
Phil
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Hey thanks for looking and I gotta go, Lou called for me out by the pool:
Happy to know we have the same priorities.
Unfortunately...I was not called. :'(
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I gots me motives :lolb:
Whiskey
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Looking good Eric
I hope the brewing equipment is only temporarily displaced, I wish I had a dedicated brewing room :lolb:
Dave
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Looking good there Eric. I agree as to the nice finish too!! Looking forward to seeing it all back together and finished...don't forget to post it in the "Showcase" section too.
Bill
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Looks great! Better than a Farmall tractor
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I'm still wondering where Whiskey is hiding that Rubicelle Maroon Packard too :)
Bill
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Bill
It's right here
(http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l604/sshire/Neat%20Stuff/0c06f758e5f03691c98d996c6c4a41c3.jpg)
Hidden behind here
(http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l604/sshire/Neat%20Stuff/bc4af75f9097d29af01eb9dc1d48d158.jpg)
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Now that is looking the part my brother. The only thing I'm concern about is closing the brew room. You think your going to make till next year? :lolb: Oh you may have a stash I wasn't think about that ;D
Don't forget a video when you get it back together. :stickpoke:
Don
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Looks awesome my brother! I too can't wait for it to go back together!
Dave
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Here is sample of the color I will use for my die filer.(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/colorsample_zps7e8fe59b.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/colorsample_zps7e8fe59b.jpg.html)
What do you think?
Mosey
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Well folks, DOG and I are baching for a couple of days and we spent some shop time getting the old boy put back together and running. IIRC it is now running in the opposite rotation: is this possible and if so how do I change it? It seems to be using more air volume, still runs at 15-20 PSI, but I hear the compressor coming on more often. I can't find any leaks; could this be in the valve timing :shrug:. And lastly, I was planning on mounting it on walnut, but, this maple isn't looking too bad; with a nice finish though; what do y'all think? Y'all take a look and thanks for doing it ;) :cheers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSAriO22Tsk
E
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8)
Jo
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Looks mighty fine Eric. And yes, it's easy to make it run in either direction by adjusting the eccentric. Go to TDC and the valve should be in a position so no air enters the cylinder. Rotate the flywheel just a hair past TDC in the direction you want it to run. Now adjust the eccentric so that air is just starting to enter the cylinder. You can often do this by listening for it. Set the eccentric and you're in business.
Cheers,
Phil
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That looks great Eric. Yes it seem you just reversed the timing set up which can be changed back if you wish. Just like putting a loco in reverse vs. forward only your #6 doesn't have a reversing link on the valve set up. Can still be done manually though.
Bill
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Fantastic Eric. Nicely done.
The oil cups came out great and I like the color.
Good sound too.
Not so sure about the maple though. I'm thinking go darker. But I'm lousy with colors.
BTW...what's the deal with the camera? As you move, everything goes kind of wobbly. What kind of camera are you using?
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That's pretty damn nice. Even for a Redneck :lolb:
Seriously, it looks great. Like the paint and it contrasts well with the base. Sprayed or brushed?
Told you not to buy a camera at a yard sale. That's the most pronounced rolling shutter distortion since Edison was hand-cranking his first motion picture camera. :ROFL: ( watch the oilers as the camera moves). That aside, QH runs beautifully.
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Whiskey, she's a beauty. Nice running and she looks great. Congrats.
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Dam! That sure came out to be one beautiful engine my brother. Are those oil cups home made are store bought, any case them sure look mighty pretty? Well brother say it with me, " I like.................... :praise2:"
Don
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Nice work Eric!
She sure looks nice!
Dave
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:cheers: Very nice Eric!! Nice runner, smoooooth.. I like the maple, round off the corners & she's done.
John
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That's a great runner, Eric, and I like the color :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Simon
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Well done Eric! She runs great and looks beautiful!
Kim
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Looks great from this side of the woods! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Excellent job :praise2: :praise2: Looks and sounds great :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Played hard, done fine. Congrats Eric. Hugh.