Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: mikehinz on August 16, 2018, 02:25:33 AM

Title: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 16, 2018, 02:25:33 AM
Wellll, here's my start on my 2nd engine!  It's a Elmer's 36 Reversing Oscillator at 2x from the original scale and done in all imperial measure.  I selected this as I thought it represented a reasonable next step to further my machining technique.  Plus I wanted to really learn Fusion 360 and this gave me a good reason to do so.  The original drawings are not that clear in certain respects and I wanted to scale it up without making a bunch of mistakes while cutting metal.  So, over the last couple of months I've been slowly drawing the engine, making lots of mistakes, and redrawing numerous times, but I think I've gotten something close finally. 

To start this, you'll note some raw stock with an engine hidden in there somewhere!  Also, I've attached a few renderings and screenshots that i did in Fusion, just to prove that i actually drew it!  Finally, I've attached a single 2D drawing of one of the first components that I'll build, that being the base.  My thinking is that I'd upload 2d drawings as I go along so you can see what I'm attempting to make and then have some pix of the actual machining process of whatever part(s) I'm working on.  Does that sound reasonable and interesting enough?

Also, I do have one issue in the Fusion model.  I've managed to make a joint between the cylinder and the column and rotate it so as to prove the air passages all matched and the rotation angle was correct, but so far, I've NOT managed to animate the entire engine.  The failing is my current lack of understanding of joints and animation within Fusion.  I'll be working on that as I go.  I'm kind of certain that I've got everything correct so that the engine will run, but there could be some small dimensional error that would prevent that from happening.  I'd LOVE to run this engine virtually and hopefully I will soon!

Any suggestions or comments on this project are greatly appreciated!

Thanks.    Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 16, 2018, 03:02:13 AM
I'll be interested in how you get along with Fusion 360 and animation.
An area I'm particularly interested in is animating cams.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 16, 2018, 12:46:58 PM
Carl, I'll certainly keep this thread updated with any successes or more likely failures, with Fusion 360.  I'd done various 2D CAD projects over the years and I must say that 3D is/was very hard for me to grasp, but now that i can do at least the basics, I fully understand why the industry has transited almost entirely to 3D.  I find that now I scrap very little as my mistakes are now much more 'virtual' than they used to be.

Later this afternoon, I hope to get some of the stock cut to basic size and to start taking to exact size on the mill.  Even more hopefully I hope to remember to take a few pix of the process!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 16, 2018, 12:57:18 PM
Already off to a great start Mike and the drawings look good too!!  More importantly, you already understand the basic rule here...if there ain't a picture of it, it didn't happen  :lolb:

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 16, 2018, 07:14:21 PM
Looks great ! Keep the posts coming will be following along.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 01:48:10 AM
Here are some pix of today's progress.  I cut all the material to rough size and squared up all the stock.  The base plate is to exact dimension and the other items are square, but not to final dimensions yet.   Nothing too complex yet but it took a fair bit of time.  I ran my saw about 3 hours to cut all the stock. 

The stock I get is mostly from The Yard here in Wichita.  It's a fantastic place and they have tons of drops from the aircraft industry.  If you get the drops they are only $1.50 per #, but there's guaranteed to be no straight side on any of the stock!   They do have some non-scrap AL stock but I tend not to go for that as it's currently $2.50 per #.  All their round stock is not considered scrap and goes for the higher price.  I also got the 3" round material there and it turns out to be 4140, but it was cheap so I'm using it for the flywheel. 

The pix show my roll-around tool cart that I put all my lathe and milling tooling plus I have a surface plate on top that i cover with the wood cover and use a work surface.  I like this method as everything is organized and handy and I can roll it to where I need it. 

Tomorrow my goal will be to get all these items to size and get the flywheel to the required thickness and get a center hole thru it.  I'll probably make an arbor to true the OD as has been suggested, but I need to get the thickness close first. 

You can probably get a little sense of my garage shop.  To quote mrpete222, "I don't know how anyone lives without a Bridgeport!". 

All for today. 

Enjoy!

Mike

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 01:51:55 AM
A couple of pix of the aftermath of today's work.  It got bloody hot in the garage by late afternoon so I didn't clean up today.  i'll need to spend some time in the morning with the shop vac to get things cleaned up before i start in again. 

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 17, 2018, 01:56:09 AM
More nice progress Mike. Maybe the shop gnomes will clean up for you overnight   ;)

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 02:04:13 AM
I have a couple of materials related questions that i thought I'd ask in a separate entry.  I'll need to order a few bit of stock here shortly so i want to decide what exactly to order or pick up. 

So far:

-  The base, column and cylinder are 6061 AL
-  The flywheel is 4140
-   All the various shafts will be W1 drillrod which I think I have on hand already.
-   For the cylinder pivot and crank bearing I was planning to use SAE 660 bronze bearing material.
-   For the cross head I was also planning to use SAE 660.
-   For the cross head guide I was planning  to use 1 1/8" DOM tubing and bore it to the required ID
-   For the piston, i had THOUGHT about Delrin, but in my LMS thread, there was a suggestion NOT to use Delrin.  So my question is, what's the alternative?  I could make the piston out of cast iron.  That's backwards from most engines, but shouldn't that work?  What about 12L14?  Or brass, or even SAE 660.  I'd like to keep the cost reasonable, so cast or 12L14 is a LOT cheaper than brass or SAE 660.
-   For the rotary reversing valve, I believe the original drawings show brass and it would certainly look and work well, but 2" OD brass is EXPENSIVE.   What about cast or 12L14 or Delrin for the valve?

Thanks very, very much in advance for considering my newby questions on material.  I have a fair bit of experience with various materials from my previous life, but it doesn't apply well to small mode engines, i fear.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 02:07:27 AM
More nice progress Mike. Maybe the shop gnomes will clean up for you overnight   ;)

Bill

That would be great, but I can tell you what the downside is.  If the gnomes don't do it and i don't do it, and some swarf gets tracked into the house and then if my wife steps on it,  it won't be a happy fun time around here! 

Hence my shop vac is my most used tool in my garage shop!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 17, 2018, 02:11:21 AM
A couple of pix of the aftermath of today's work.

 :lolb:

All swarf and no parts.

:lolb:

It's not too often I see a pic of the just the aftermath.

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 17, 2018, 02:51:37 AM
I would use brass or the 660. What diameter are you looking at at 2x scale? If you have CI on hand, I don't see why it wouldn't work though.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 03:13:16 AM
Bill, I'm not sure which part you're referring to, but the piston in this engine will be 1.25"  OD by .50 length.  The reversing valve is 2" OD x .375 thickness.    I'll have to order some 660 for sure and could go ahead and order some brass. 

What's the best place to get small quantities at a good price?  Online Metals and Speedy metals both stock 660 and brass but it's just over $100/foot NOT including delivery.  I'll check Amazon and eBay that sort of material just seems expensive!

Thanks.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: AOG on August 17, 2018, 04:08:51 AM
Will you be running this engine on steam at any point? If not, with a piston that big, I would make it from 6061 aluminum. Make it .005 undersized and seal it with a silicone o-ring. That should keep the costs manageable. For the valve, I would make it out of 2.5 x .375 brass bar instead of round bar. Just turn it round on the lathe.

Tony
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on August 17, 2018, 08:59:57 AM
This is going to be an interesting thread!

Will follow...

gary
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: chucketn on August 17, 2018, 03:00:18 PM
Mike, what kinds of problems are you having with Fusion? I also like to draw up steam engines, I'm currently working on the C.W. Woodson vertical with reverse, from Popular Science in 1947. I have completed the Harry Wedge oscillator from Harris' book, "Model Stationary and Marine Steam Engines". I, also have issues with joints and animation, and had to get help with the Wedge.
I started learning Fusion to design things to 3d print, and have had great fun with that. I've been using Fusion for about 6 months.
I'm also drawing up a flyball governor based on the Pickering style governors, and hope to scale it for my engines.
Have you joined the Facebook groups for Fusion Users? Lots of help to be had there. You know you can share your design by right clicking the saved design in the data panel and choosing 'Share ublic Link. You have the option of allowing download or not, and password protecting the access to it. The option generates a url you can send to whoever.
For example, here's the flyball part of my governor: https://a360.co/2L1AC8D
Good luck with your design.
Chuck
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 17, 2018, 03:12:02 PM
Chuck, I'll check out the Facebook group.  I've also found lots of good tips on the Autodesk Fusion 360 community forum. 

With respect to Fusion, I've figured out how to do things like insert screws or bolts into threaded holes and I've figured out how to do single joints to check alignment.  In fact, that's what i did to check the air/steam port alignment between the cylinder and the column.  That worked well and it wasn't too complicated once I understood the principal.  The problem I'm having is in trying to animate the entire engine, meaning that I want to rotate the crankshaft and have rest of the engine components follow that driving motion.  I suspect it's in the type of joint(s) i'm using in various places and/or that i don't understand something basic regarding animation.  I may at some point post my model to the Fusion 360 forum and ask for help there if I can't get it working in a few days or so.

Thanks.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: chucketn on August 17, 2018, 04:32:54 PM
Are you shure you're selecting the correct joint for the crankshaft? If you created a rigid joint  just before the crank joint, the default joint type will be rigid. You will have to select rotative. You can also animate the joint or animate the model from the right click menu on the joint. Also, if there is any interference between the parts in the joint,or the rest of the model, the joint will animate, but the model won't, and there is no indication as to why given...

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 18, 2018, 01:05:48 AM
Hi,
I've had good luck with this eBay seller, 6061dude. Most items are free shipping and the brass prices are resonable
IMO. No shipping charges saves the day.

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 18, 2018, 02:16:14 AM
Brian, I'll check that eBay supplier out.  So far all the brass I've found is expensive.

Thanks for the tip!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 18, 2018, 05:08:02 PM
Are you shure you're selecting the correct joint for the crankshaft? If you created a rigid joint  just before the crank joint, the default joint type will be rigid. You will have to select rotative. You can also animate the joint or animate the model from the right click menu on the joint. Also, if there is any interference between the parts in the joint,or the rest of the model, the joint will animate, but the model won't, and there is no indication as to why given...

I worked on the animation a bit last night.  My conclusion is that i need to study joint tutorials a lot more!  For instance, I THOUGHT I had created a 'Rigid Group' that included the piston, piston rod, and crosshead.  But when i tried to create a sliding joint of the piston within the cylinder, the 3 elements of the Rigid Group didn't move together.  Sooooo, more learning is required on my part!

Thanks.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 18, 2018, 05:25:30 PM
Here's yesterday's work plus a couple of more drawings, those being the cylinder and related pivot rod and the flywheel and related crankshaft and crank pin. 

Cylinder and cylinder pivot rod drawing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ADo8L-8ppzZrZSessxlhYAwicIlTRQ9A/view?usp=sharing

Flywheel, crankshaft, crankshaft pivot pin drawing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NpFo80EgrRyXARk73xj3FAgKEpBh6SmN/view?usp=sharing

Fly cutting column to required thickness and to get a good finish.  Using the Tormach SuperFly cutter with AL specific insert:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v1MR5NghfuqElUnxvI07fw-YgzqefSrwRWk-k19SlSmX7aiEB6eoJIJYWc8ZzVuAgi_UwE4MjfjAVlaNzfM41VreKKjyDKWt1fNHEwuyzpycwgGn-eFvsTvGA3G4xvoJVMc6sMdf4R9EUPpjzev8BCpw7gs5PR1uccDxOUTdg1Nt-kcB0nGgFr_uVlnYDEfI4ojMHuqqNOF13R7xbePATCOy5kxnGn5KxR0eUJvxAXl6UChf4Wg4VpeQ3Ckh9egdRJTA4HZgjYJsrSK68QiAcxEBf9BSyQ6f4Gypwz9HqCA4zfs5GZ6uJ1asqtcVkcwLY7UbNfJV72muidLVI5K1jcLkXx586F006cBNZXrk0BQqARGNIw8UUI-5xo-wt_hZ3gNoqRonTqvRejxnN0W0x7qFtIws2cWVNuPZcvoD-dzUlZKp-MglX8UbKOonIdwqr0V74OjpjGIcnIJ8jGOgIMsfq1hCzw5vKmUZr7kfgsxM5MYpYd2sMvlNsVDX4fTkfG_TV-gGe6nh7Bx9Gkqo-rKjM6Rw9HfGfRDAB8iLIzbUKWFyKuFSyA2aLDKjPEQnBoA0PBC7uGWpv1JYz6EvWMjzXeH55oqqTNXwmoF3boqKDzvnM4-Co5virzV076F6yD6Iyd5jnxl0jMBmsZnq4qzVBfOr4YbO=w800-h600-no)

Setting up the cylinder block in the vise and setting 0,0 and using the stop to be able to flip the stock over to cut the other side.  Note my very exact layout on the block!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oHwwqeJI57Dw4DfjEGEvn7pipjjPnxuw_lniCsd86rqTTkz5urk7twLVdKn740MQkQyeaADvUvg23LECRjsT9QcgDragHFbbEtUiXrvNR9jcI5--oDI6pdpt0-KBukLzsL01YUfEvj8pqHz7JsBEM-kcvCOsJrTPPp9LBPB6tSUhZJVnhHlzRDCbI7WyFXMWldlBc5T8diofwlfRqVPhO5j1WHKnSkGNIyYcP514owVl4fzIHIQ_ZCNUFBaCwb11mVNohzN7nRiQIHUObRIa5lSev7pzhVVNpcw51k2egQ3tvMxNq1xJ3kNFBb1TF1I58UDZXH_H2QJcf0_DpDUN20iXBYo9IELG-sRVgb9HWhHdvXPu4UwJ4KAcYXmQ11zitClEy9G_U8zCcLjxEyO3bP4JFBxDcKyQOCEJbo91iwZKDE9D8YoFImD4xgtoTdauBpuH-vfJuuxHXKaXTACsoZ2Z19gZu9fDL1OJeottVthzwGXU9chz2_L1dp4Zi5bkqCSlfrjefd4C39CODuN4VsyRZoChLvnKEGLyPiQVDf0UMuddOWQCaSpHOw2J7bOyOP1Z2t6dZ4XuoxliauPL6QSETPiMeI4_etaEOWOh7Rmi2O87qxSaNWb2B2KkxwmNLGpib-JE07xezT-DDSycd-2-atpbZ0z1=w800-h600-no)

Cylinder milled to exact size and ready to drill, tap, and bore:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uX165ER6J_W4UiYAo44V7M1sKf2_snaTV-_iSKVCFuh3p9BfLRtzzr2DK5CYkhUzbJBLWFXS5UsJvIInIT4cu14D2nC9sncQsuNxYZjJLg7qRWSBu9cl2-OPFkOYzRaH5BQ9L4fMRRDfhBb41w0IdvXU-361nCz9TYXVaNd5F8dVW5nmr1NnZ1Yx9MP-Wy50QBatxTyUjw2dS8jO5pcuwcho5bqubo_bpjAvpa2b--uiiZnPd4bY-zA1oqFn0iM7QzPReHAw-z0guu7TcF9YOkakRvvODryDgP5xygWAdrWCT7B1BGGhk1qjulQ_-Go2X9B6t6PEki7mwkH0d4i2CnXC657vliATm7ezvEdOWmTHuEqVD52eisj0RjddYKyXLgXj--PUZfa1XlPui4DsHqaFBG5YerFuLUL0kQWTGJ8V3aENtnCLxtjgU2h3quO6ITW2xj8uTvv1n4q3KJeSDm7-fqjBJBJsRKZxgXh7ELEPsyeNUI1uSkR7PONd76ncau8PwduYyh0hsCQVE5gdcYHv2wIb5GswesLqxNIsrRZMOyy7GR465b3k7SawQuUPgwJeq9-3-OxtwtvQy5BPFcX_iIGYXP7yVENQavRjRfcAOIQxQg0aiTLlRjj_HIRRGYjaAuaNa6TkdxwKu8oHvkFuovNGztIB=w800-h600-no)

And finally, the most used tool in my shop:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d7o-C5Futtrje9nh1iAgYwf4yIiwFIwPV_GEq1P1hb_hIGu1f_wTf9Uo0DIY8bezxEnkUtoABEUfymvhhkeNhERu7Z60zWtHuWIEv1DxeZzvwnnDOA-rZtb7gvLwYemox_cyx6KfyY00FqCdvzWxfXzyarGb2IHm2101gwaMtDMFzFiw0BJ5JUGLaXhk9Zd94k4lkGqMFgXrSpChxSzaUulT7svqb9iMMXyOjyCIju5v5FLh33jmkn40ZlH1AM9DVdPF-OHVngAhCFSCG0HSCMMWUZmgG8RwapQRTINpOUzIffx8OJReZXZA20hs_9hB9IltJCGdMU5qtnn93-xR0fmkotOEb9BVvG9mhqTp11PhS6mqmqg9Q4lYXs97PlQDNyCNCM4VCnUqY1bJqHaNaIT68tne6o6TzUy8OFZRQVlNduJy1A-dS9gbIo295etMUpegxL54tQ4YiVG73UePcNll7CCeW0PTbGKCM_geY41REyK4Ft-FFj1mp4bYeHmm7WRJbxTMhm6Yf26autk0sLI6aeF4S5rWxuSZcq1G8fN2ZjmBSK7Dd6zITVydUJ-wRrE27g7bihDm6swwT_axWtHgbDwDIC2c_nEgBfDnnJBRvPSI0yClIJYVZ5neFbEQPCm4pR0hcedRxBHlfQ3lDbnPwWMCGb_n=w800-h600-no)

I'm working on the drawing for the column and it's taking me some time as there are a LOT of holes that have to intersect so I want to make sure the drawing is clear enough.  The model is correct (at least as far as i can tell) but creating a clear drawing is a bit of a trick. 

Hopefully this entry is now correct.  If someone could please now check if you can see all 4 of the pix i've embedded in this post and can access the 2 PDF drawings, i' most appreciate it!

Thanks.  Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 18, 2018, 06:48:06 PM
The first link requires me to request permission. I didn't try that.
The second link though showed me the drawing.
Odd.

Your embedded photo looks fine.

Do you know if you can do videos from there?
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 18, 2018, 07:18:54 PM
I am getting the same thing Mike. The photos look fine though.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 19, 2018, 01:37:48 AM
Hi,
Reply # 21 is missing three Photos or drawings ? Picture that show are fine.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 19, 2018, 01:54:41 AM
Did you modify your post?
I still see the first photo...but like 'toolznthings' says...I can't see see the other 3.
All I see is the symbol (similar to the European 'no parking' sign).
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 19, 2018, 02:03:33 AM
Did you modify your post?
I still see the first photo...but like 'toolznthings' says...I can't see see the other 3.
All I see is the symbol (similar to the European 'no parking' sign).

Could I ask you to check that post again?  I think I've fixed it.  There should be 2 links to drawing hosted on my Google Drive account.  Then there should be 4 pix that should directly display. 

Between getting the correct url copied/pasted and getting the permissions correct on the Google Photo Album for this build, it's been a real problem! 

I've started checking my posts from my wife's computer with no log-in to this site and it seems to render there correctly now.

Sorry for all the issues from me on this!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 19, 2018, 02:22:33 AM
I see all now.  ;D

Sorry for all the issues from me on this!

No worries. We've all been there. And I've returned a few times.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 19, 2018, 02:25:12 AM

"Fly cutting column to required thickness and to get a good finish."
After this I still have a " minus " sign. Everthing esle shows. 
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 19, 2018, 02:41:41 AM
Ok, I've redone that URL again and I've check that post from 2 different computers using 2 different accounts.  It works for me now. 

If possible, could you please try it one more time?

Sorry for this mess!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 19, 2018, 03:09:35 AM
Looks fine for me.

I can also see the drawings from the initial two links.
I have to admit...I don't think I checked last time.

I think you're good to go.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 19, 2018, 08:11:38 PM
We are good on the pictures now .  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 20, 2018, 01:27:19 AM
Today's work on the engine. 

First project for today, working on the base and getting it completed!

Spot drilling for the various thru-holes plus spot drilling the corners of the flywheel cutout area.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tbCW9mQHDdXG8rnaSQtMo86x-9rP2G-H2u2p_plpFOOEYWPStI78Lb1ZyH5pnbQbLjAKqzpy0As0HC27D060CLPjMRe_U5p_6lAeyfz7vK9SbcKOIF-sZmpD6A4o8q4JsmKV5zHpzTzZSR01e6oxMXYpllYP3ybS5Z5q_ASVeuM0hLPkVs4_n6TqmzXnSsUz6kic4Zs2FOFO6lnWaNEtJ79w49dNn8_cB-fY0lJNt3baxC9FKDc2zSXAumY426YHCPLnS6Y3M3gjS2bAfCTf6iJROUcPU_dZ7uJR3KjCKemJWOUT_V85XUdbjBF6uw8CVqJNJ-D9HcckNNQBkv4hKXsRGQNYceEx0L8831RXqhMpPKIWrHXQjHT_LXvAbSaU6DGIX88zGTy6t_Ej7oP5wH4GCy8Z3BUu5jvf_M3gJVhNmqO_HhdylmtayTo0_MqcuPli6IY-30CYotq8Hkohk1y61i3z1MELXKgmKbAxP8F6pdLB3qrzydHB62F9wEbP2uExYNTH7Pz8JYgYaiKXE0hqdm9yeTMDLI4DfcVBZuf5MClgoc8sN4KdYSDduTsiIo66g3Y9ILCsHRJakog62Xv1qD3AQFBA3NgOJTS7tWzSkgu-PkBNKUvlf6lfTVrlnKa8ba86pP8k_ZRcP_nl8jTv8Y3ydSw5=w715-h953-no)

Drill the thru holes and corners of the cutout with a #9 drill (clearance for 10-32 shcs).  Using the DRO with 0,0 at the lower left corner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yJigsv_sBfmofikLX1dqzsPlP6o2QdsjzONXobShs7BIlsplQHLP_jUzdhKmbL6EREJvDrADP97h9hG6RMvPQ8LLQ6b69ZgNBvYysI6H0Q52IHfEZZfuuQM_WVsvNz6_bGQfaoPcAPEuJjfvH3jdX8Cowy2-KQLLqnKbbwbePNkNC-HqPQsMCTq_aaFDZ7SdlUDW5h4wZXG36XvZ_4WNWO019W1RKmQxhra8QHQaPfuC0e6azwn6cE6ZRnzfEcvlbeNfGrlMCfvvNf3-4SPrKnYMPgDxI8EhM0siKhUvnH2AOHOcLeHMnJ3qZcTJaNbrv9D8a7e9Pa8R10RWF9aUpj_oUqPyK1gvoobcFaXYQjFgVj02_txv7vrRIwf_Fo2hV-zs82ivFxDMgBrxJ9PHgxllsGL8nIxPRr4x5eMJ08HUX7g1gRgLMKog8edwo5j4ZoN5ZUivo6bBWWTasoGtSC_-nOk2MaOEAJFr2UOWDkFkoeE4OapYeyxWkeOORDFI58AqHDhWTJJSSYHJZjTE5qJiHGh7cOZGvl1uZ-JBj17BfsvONUZV2QC5rSaMOax01SUSwcmXkbU54BU491FlwdPYv6YdmkXSgPMLaSMBwUNSOl-0557rZ0WR8rP25k7pz7NbsjZnrmPcr7VQM7eJ9d4B_xAIkEJF=w715-h953-no)

Milling out the flywheel clearance area.  I'm using a 1/4" 2 flute HSS end mill.  Plunging in about ,100 on each pass.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GFRehmJTbeW8WlZ9LZ4FBInlhAs9ww3oP_fBjKDmOAbkuorYNqk8voXNn4Mz59OVym0VTft-8g2t3CHx-gcPShCsrmSbPM5KMXuxjUxVPhYoSFfV5KGebSMT-o-dYIryheHOc-QsfhKQXkMSSYkKu3ELFQHUjbJQCiBa--acwN_rJqXBmoA1j0zCb0YyfFyOdc2CEKN_9CqA3sMVdchBFJ1wDkLe6cGCctNmERhy7oM7E8QGTomJQmIR6JH5gmoqB2xXvd6xGI3KrHj7HmG1Mlr9mx2nFz8Dml80Dsg_oPnfap_nNEErXFf4of49x0PZRxdidUcqo-K9YqlfnOTChGQMkI-Xp8XSPR2OceecZooo15dH27e3tGAW6M5T93_PrZQlivTM7kyRK7A5w_7df70x6ynXmmx8OsNJYClYuiP5BMPgEqbJ2DLvl6h9SBQeVq2P-CYkNj5Fc9GRpfGeJ9ragZgnNkyUwCAkkOy1HeMkiN3WX3ci6PAQiu5ijaXBWmus62RPlpKjvusQxdVsQ5Ezo8-2WETxJR635VSayUYb6bKBiO4CLnWAc2cB92ygi2ufKeJ_Uwv-YBtGyjmDFyGEglqnUziTaqFux9oXdPsO-REOwTX57terAMNNeLQk5ia-YKov8Xfi_ueaSGnmYeNtu0GzBkkD=w715-h953-no)

Base is completed! 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZHw2GpboKuPXnCMfgSUqJ-0s3eoW16hClD4Vib8Svu0BGQOMlGVZjR3PPs3QCYqcXHlDKAnM_yY6KEX0YlIcZ1a9H4adhHwUR1YuRiylG95ZgiVCxowXsQaDgD5ueV5Kg9aLxQXnlvYTy0qBoouVemDELDAkUZ7zZ8qW-v8NLQKs5jAbUCMHKjidWHiO1-RtOwuGDBZHpMfIaqIqIavpPfgy_NajDk-S_3b1lcCmu0juvCX6T9ENb7mRUDEn2TAP3Cah-Zi9HZj_ikIRyJvGDn8YqE9wXkuvHJ9HDaq-zihIMPu3w8Z24vZIDR2__apIugXBN6JbXwV_HHMB3EHRXRuWiYrmKXpv7knQ47_i42wAQje8hLjmyrbhjXLvQy72nRSZfYi7Ogo_b9f6jgsp09MInkQpTtSkPfu76RsfDLL_IEkZs26TPFTzEd3cbOOFp-QVbEEjoAAXwHKtQgWX74EJ1OjNbKx0bUaO7o1DXJxObfViDQiVEQC-ctjTw1_JTdXeBPL2BRBZDet2ptfIZfBrIBfHyAhkk70VPPjcPwVxOkk-lsiUjLaO7HTN5_zCjuqPLNsDwnGq1-g89TIz9axTK9knz11EugPFRu0=w715-h953-no)


Started on the cylinder.  Got the setup done and drilled and tapped the 10-32 holes for the cylinder head cover SHCS's.  I just used the spindle and chuck as a guide.  I put a bit of pressure on the quill handle and rotated the spindle by hand with the Bridgeport kicked into neutral.  I sometimes use a tap follower but this is easy and quick for 10-32. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hZgJ9wUw9Ue6hHbhKw3PCVBByJn4A7e13T956ZLvff_g6o6puWoO9AwCF5GspZ98vak0vmCYriz_LC2-iIapwyHtULS1ynCFc5elH-F_wNXu3kWNwLkCi2q0Dgg0Ge9hyUtpGaHov_a3pbXcEQroUaQJxh5AGvAKQlFlJxlFl8qolzKee9pAHsRM22QR0bOZoqw925JxGqNvY0rTj8jUYSs_1CUSt5z3c79Q2dCH3R2ZrbtOCr-UhnS-2iNG9ldcZmw63VDUcMu--ph-uQEUOH2wtZ28lvSYh7ZvYw68fW910312TNP7lnXnPdnaT0HPX4WQYquuRIjSgI-bz7BQdIXsdLzHpffnY4RG-v5sUtYB4mAeDktkB043VIc4a4sp38JEZZIOCfLxSQ3sBlbycP9x0uI_qBN-kcqbtBQ_xIGRMdPsZqzSsdo8dm2QhW5GHLH-Es4FQ70CCzQ4fIegEgRR8bvjRcXpOBnNjFCl4lc97Sb-cePX-KWOEY4obOZpYNnO8OivdKnm28CULYhT9R8x9PjNCpS0GHqBzugm6Lk0UuAd9nputViW6NwFepzKjsE30bq2D4RL_-EJ14oUmWQLNNHesh3Ox8lZwCg=w715-h953-no)

You might note that the cylinder bore is a bit small!  I better get that fixed up tomorrow!

I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer.

- What's the best way to improve the finish of AL?  The base was correct in thickness so I didn't want to fly-cut if and make it under size.  How about a Scotchbright wheel? 

- On the flywheel cutout area, the milled out area was not perfectly smooth on the edges.  Is the best way to get a better finish to stay on the inside say .005 during the plunge cuts and then take a very shallow finishing pass at full depth?  Or just work the edge smooth by filing or sanding? 

Next step(s) is to finish the cylinder and then start on the column.  I'm still not happy with the drawing for it so I need to work on that for a bit.

In any case enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 20, 2018, 01:31:57 AM
I THINK the photos should all be correct on my latest post but please comment if anything is missing or doesn't seem correct.

Thanks.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: crueby on August 20, 2018, 01:47:50 AM
The pics seem to all be there!


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 20, 2018, 01:57:09 AM
Very odd. The 1st 3 pics show fine. The last 2 show the 'no parking' or 'no entry' sign (I can't remember which).

As to your questions...I'm too inexperienced to help...but no doubt others will chime in. It's a great forum.

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 20, 2018, 02:12:17 AM
Mike, on flat pieces like the base, I usually finish them up on a flat plate with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper which will leave a nice matte finish. As for the flywheel cutout, if your set up is rigid, you can climb cut say .005" all the way around and it will leave a smoother finish.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 21, 2018, 12:38:34 AM
Today's work on the engine:

I decided that boring the cylinder wasn't a good idea at this point.  Per the original drawings which I duplicated, the cylinder contact area to the column has a large radius turn on it and then a recess behind that turned to a smaller radius.  Since I'm going to do that a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe, I thought I'd better leave as much material in place where the chuck jaws will end up touching.  Plus I needed a way to get close to center for the lathe work.  So i flipped the cylinder in the mill and drilled a center hole plus I went ahead and drilled the air admission ports at the same time since the work was located for doing so:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QoPgErjSBMGts5O7ZlqnkP5UitKqa6pP76lQI98Gmt8MfN0XlDyV3GA2DtqPl2tX5_LlQoyBZ6o9H8Gm6Km_aXQIXfbr7uh7DVWAULDBrQNEFkoUuyr4YKNONNnNSAj-INkLg-5ce6nwCIqOBepiyQnBTau_3AhrGiI_C8Hqye142QLfW7Rkd-uGdn5EzApjlw5CmQhLOvvUl2_zojgkh44niBYUSKPFYNsdmJwOfeC9-uP6-FGl5p8og99xOmf8XrYHuw0QB0imEQjVYZ2pG9sG5GUW-zBTmzYYGFCUVIXmhEnlEHLfxP7D92i-3oDNzqhl4pN_LtJ1eN8xm8X0MU151afWvqwbRZVCSIkXHoNDOcA0OVUG7scl7QrtL7lCxDsBy3mNiC9aZECt8IWDsSSu7L_5K49O7enKmuW26-cvGzqy8TMba-buYz8bTc1oArP6QbWKJwaUfpYUBTAyYbNeX78-CBr56KN0yXokqz-vJLQLzGSpj_6otz437_m1ytcIXqeXW9iEB-SUeZfMzNPaWWHefisYbEZlJIEsRQ8r7iLI0vS43m7zSawP5m8UMA3XHrTjh57jkD5xvv51wefivOEv08dlePe1nnB0C8JXLkRc3yy_Gki_d2SWqJ4obYd5iS4XMf58yZKT-SkI3oikqntSyAlD=w715-h953-no)

Then, since I had the 3 jaw chuck installed on the lathe, I went ahead and turned the cut stock for the flywheel to 1.00" thickness and drilled a center hole.  My plan is to then do the rest of the drilling and reaming in the mill, and once the crankshaft is made and pressed into the flywheel, I'll then go back to the, hold the crankshaft in a collet and lightly true up the flywheel.  Hopefully that will mean it will all run true when I'm finished!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vGbvYJBhVRlqBJAo7WnI_tGUHmOTPgmVggjdvW7oBXc0cUhfMerXTo6ODMldyaZTiQGf8prZ3qOdOba5gqcPmSF-zfg1feWWoyJJZO4guDDJnN51mcnqKF6ySJYMFwv-W4cetpDmQ0YQIuEs1dp9uMbwrofTkgFwlomFLWA2MNdtHqNKoOKpYgtknjMlIHliL-61I3Py4MVHZfNnc_etgDwPnX8X5IYwvl14QEkFPqXuU5kXSyExH0ee0YXO135HzLIvR16KrPinZFqWRxyaoO7Nc3b00mWo1Ehc-N65JIYlaBFLXtCxAQ7Txg9c0htqEqG8NSDQnjbLWGKNiTTHa-nHKQkC5RHdgFX9jy2EUAf5aPOVyuER54cbpDCBpOmHB3y1lBb9yGRsC25enGVujHY2etO6sqMbjZqEgxZ15LI2emmsyRd-PPSB-d95ibzHL8W1gL3Dw2JCM2OqWvjISEIq_oE1XDy79r2CA9X3eqH2NVFt98wGD9wD-lWp0YGcBUlgIDzBARuXd56iUAgK9CnyDgXlDylkbMxdfD3hnDlC22nb0sZgvZre16jiQzz2JCSPnAKT0RMJFLZQpqsaFrcRz6a9tKU94zP7MMOjM6KPtbTpAO0EV5gTUVq6FCRRS6Z7Sevn6sqoNAfM0ykoUQiRG7KOBnRx=w715-h953-no)

Then back to the mill and locate the column in the vise, bottom up.  Then drill and tap the holes for attaching the column to the base:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GJISWLzLE1BZU-AOy2YzIE9E23jJcS5KLZYsQs-QbM6prkWDdn0OhHZOeWLkfc4scsErqKimKgVqLKxxrl0Jxjp6psIVFo6IzqJ2PTbVeSOcYkB3GyOuF9affS2Hy9NnvWMgaxHRpjj68dPSsJx7GQVXc1I2BMfGRtGLyrsOdsESnNev90rRKw9KcZ0-ZpDXjVyjWEGyHW9CsHJq1b4sfkIGdrKKB7i14L-oph94C0GnZAVx4hCD3kMXxOsSYRDOF5QrVxdPbgL3duwZQbAa9qBgOyC1vm207covACKqsRrGb9LSHzF2Lc_z6fuRFiN7O6B2F48RWRElH02DF5S0v5Eg2zetf3C5OMkH3YZx-6NdgM-y6BMD0ZcLjTq2j_b_tlOZvvSiZ-gFRYUomAlykxXODNyBge1EjHDNZccMgIzaTPek8TBDl9oHyRpHLC7TnhJ3xdjZKlfLDtTg8CB1F0AIMn_EWjxaBAUzx545gVPvAgzgCJksSOnNxYNPMXbbfIdE-YA-wP9xp0Yqr4bNdrYDXlAKkpgB1yyGk_fP9gbgEpkj-BMNgZ3oVSnH35RajiQ2sYEPH6RL_NH2rGDBM39P_jbmTu3lbyCCDlWAOU3HnQZiWthetuHjB99i2adMNnhwmEC-DCL0qHKjk6WwrVHHqqlbpH-u=w715-h953-no)

Just a photo of something I always try to do.  I chamfer the drilled hole fairly aggressively.  That way the tap seems to start more easily and there's no nasty burr after the tapping operation:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q3TKLNMYdrIg8D9je0EVZuKfOVFAECVcIFiZ3f6eUhkdBPfsjmLmQVYJtnDZKWzAuozrPVDMoG3ckJgduFP4Z3DTCgyGM280guPRZLrP5AQXnUq2zOUOuQP-5xnPTDR_ev2wKxcQBKIMPpugu3Sb_HEoQyquvZcWmipRrb6KbJ_OFmOkHuZD0AxGGDLNENM9CRsqV8PpzIx3e4cQTkfVnb7xc54xfnUJgD5RY5hrs98M8V6E8C6WqgJ3a8D5RNimsJzV-x_A4s7owCRw1EeBtuaWfPr-CzZ_m8IJK2cKH1NvrafFGCgJh_VJwUQYTJ7P65IKbm7h3aPw9IRmxaQLi9V4qsmb1ZjBhCqAG4mGlPNZlqhysEBnQc5fj_x_SMvvGkbY1HNmvoAJfpiOGuPjsHih-HZ6ZfhMvZwEUu6BfOlEEQ0mTnjvNoM-JB5-g4E1OWOswGjsPwhMWVe9BlH0KZbJT1_Ft9Zf2cF117SK6Di_WxTHmU3WjMIlLT3Wy7DGTaS9JBIUYI9DnXyzhMXU60ezVtyZ-lfsHTVr6Q3Zmd6TFvM3TOSFQ3bfOKzo6zhhTOOfHXxHycoPTkd25y-AikzQFZ5IWqWbfQaeE8GVRcfqMlfQaYQlChlD7HyhlI0H3C7D41EbJ-j6xMkykqe8ZiyUx1CcYe11=w715-h953-no)

The first 2 pieces assembled!  One small step, something, something, something...............
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xDVT-YEQfev9Xku8P1iAasYVKFA_L6TUCIn7H_SYbY9HlEKgXBzD3-wbUTsSUmqf_8r3mja5QeYRIr-Vu4CnB3sa6_CohzbqlOQhdnsRiXeLj9Q5ziQUfe7BjzvjNABKFleoWc-mWOHZPFHVxmnyDCLJ9ovFAufftr1WJ0GLIdL9SHCww31k1fsayvMxyWBEGkGjtriXshBB_PVxkqrCQLqmAJN385mqHKRwFC-7XVqhKmZ-VzfxMt3PAHkPaK9yzKSlv5pMAvibIHDwzs0dixZk4d4d2bCExpPxaILUs2JHnagrsMlcUtoMdGZsOPTTU3HEcmo27H3Ib5sU4VUJxBhNr57kVPOPAdtK-cby4CsteEu1llCBNCdat7uXDVuQjh48IttkXOS9uXLuRrCCKvEBJME5jh_c2He6abqYYeXfp3evVt2Z1AC5NGW5ylu_6LBHo2joxYxmwjZdhOERok0B073D8mJZ_iuWvkX-65P9s-CCi3_hrsXoNpmN3-AqeeR8w6RNJ31ZFGsdgeACYE-_a9fOdcClwvTvxI42E38T3qIfQTPKajzsbqqpkY5wVkzSjakdqBzsjdkbfuRLNT84147TWFJRhXQrKbw_aBPerCd-IoiOStIsXQf1Ts7cqO5rSM19BrclM3mg-SRdONLQxKOQHTZr=w715-h953-no)

Finally, just mocking things up to get an idea of the scale and how it all will look when finished.  I just took Elmer's plans and pretty much doubled all the dimensions.  I think the cylinder looks a bit large at 2X scale, but we'll see when it's all done:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C1rqdS1aduRv0qTA3URXzhXZBVQ7nw1C4dWX5BTF3mpCmw5J6tAF7yQ_5KGOrrnpjEWHCuD9I8LFdCbZPtJcV_JQxk7iteFQt4Q-unVholDZj0Eg0np2V2pDslY5lnJAQjKjpKRM-W7TLK0v-EE6XgThYAo7ygv81avWgRE29sF5j0mNtJFcf6uhwNMG0yE1BFKNmfw8LOyzQqtZxfqd7xlw35vdgR3R66H8Dj3vVdxREUnzfs346eF7mpNTz3y69_sFox42CkAPyk5Ulpop_35oX0GqM7OLB_qeiP4w3mwgFhTMunfBqWcysDp0TPiogYiSTTNV-LC7sNqSpI9JR18mLBnWP7slD8mGLQy0xLGGUxSjsO5hfWWi8VaEev9CKxwKka7Nbm6FJ37bkrg4cNpFZ4MDqbSQ00oESsx8Tk_SWUn-_NDyP9Nd4x0GeQcW2m3Alw0avM4eCiceJqbNGZftyPZJhjnoXw1Z1YZaeD6chBPNk_2xPi5f4Enp-K_F6R_FVPFNcwM1vRYuFNZLzgObdbKidG68tSdfd1p-bbTwjQv3B3ZP9crFUeZ2z175XiHkNNoZLStXJEBlFCS90XSAsksVDMlZANIPNXogeENgpl3NAQmCPQLkfmRz4IIDIWSDR_fvKkXIJet-t_afz2_9HSyrhB28=w715-h953-no)

I do have a question:  Is the collective wisdom to bore the cylinder on the lathe with a boring bar or to bore the cylinder on the mill with a boring head?  The setup in the 4 jaw is a bit more painful, although i did have the foresight to put in a centerhole on the mill.  Input is appreciated!

All for today.  I'm still working on finalizing all the various 2d drawings for construction and am still trying to animate this thing in Fusion 360.  I may end up taking a break from working on this engine for a day or 2 as I've just received the DRO kit for my lathe and I'd like to get that installed although I don't really need it badly for this engine project.  So, who knows what I'll do!  I'll just follow whatever impulse strikes me!

FYI.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 21, 2018, 12:50:32 AM
Just a photo of something I always try to do.  I chamfer the drilled hole fairly aggressively.  That way the tap seems to start more easily and there's no nasty burr after the tapping operation:

That's something I try to remember to do but generally fail at. I always think there's some steps I'm forgetting to do. I hope I'm getting better at it.
You're a step a head of me.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: AOG on August 21, 2018, 01:54:36 AM
It looks good so far. I have to say, that engine looks beefy and industrial at that scale. My personal opinion on the cylinder  is to bore it on the lathe and then skim the face to make sure it’s perpendicular to the bore. Just my 2 cents.

Tony
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 21, 2018, 02:01:36 AM
Hi,
Look at my Elmer's #32 post to see if you like the procedure I use for boring the cylinder in the lathe. Eaiser to indicate and accurate. IMO

Brian
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 21, 2018, 02:26:47 AM
Brian, I found the thread you're referring to.  I'll study it carefully as to your technique.

Thanks!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 29, 2018, 01:36:51 AM
I have a runner, well virtually at least!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6OXisCQRDE

I had some various bits of family business to attend to and that kept me from working in my shop, but I also spent a considerable amount of time on the Fusion 360 model for this engine and finally was able to understand joints and all the complexity associated with them.  After things clicked into place in my mind, I was able to animate the solid model fairly quickly.   By doing so, I was able to prove that I don't have interference issues and extremely importantly, I was able to verify that the porting on the column matches the porting on the cylinder at the correct positions.  I really, really came to appreciate Fusion 360 for this sort of design and verification and I'm glad I spent the time to learn it so as to become at least somewhat proficient with it. 

I also carefully generated all the drawings for this engine and repeatedly checked them over.  I did catch a few mistakes, some of my own making and some inherited from the original drawings.  I do have a question about the drawings.  I'm likely to revise them further as I make the various bits so where and how should I post them?  I do note that there's a Plans and Drawings forum.  Should i post the complete set there?  What happens if I make further corrections/mods as I go along?  Can I update the file easily?   Or should I just like it to my Google Drive folder and that way things would stay current?  Advise is appreciated!  Also, what about sharing the Fusion 360 model?  I certainly don't mind sharing it but I only want it to be downloaded, not modified online. 

In any case, I think tomorrow I'm going to do the various shafts and try to finish the flywheel.  Then on to the column with all it's tricky drilling!

FYI.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 29, 2018, 01:52:27 AM
That's fantastic!  :ThumbsUp:

Getting a drawing to do what you need is a big step towards making parts.
I really enjoy CAD. I'm still looking for cam animation.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 29, 2018, 11:02:51 AM
A second to what Tony said. Bore in the lathe with the 4 jaw. That way the skim cut on the face will be perpendicular to the bore. Easier to do that on the lathe than the mill IMO.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 29, 2018, 01:22:40 PM
A second to what Tony said. Bore in the lathe with the 4 jaw. That way the skim cut on the face will be perpendicular to the bore. Easier to do that on the lathe than the mill IMO.

Bill

Bill, that's my intent for finishing the cylinder.  I'm planning to make most of the shafts today, then finish the flywheel, the move back to the cylinder.  I don't know how much of all that I'll get done today though!  I do promise pix later though!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on August 29, 2018, 01:26:45 PM
That's fantastic!  :ThumbsUp:

Getting a drawing to do what you need is a big step towards making parts.
I really enjoy CAD. I'm still looking for cam animation.

Thanks!  I actually enjoy the learning process, although it takes me a while!  I certainly note a lot less scrap pieces if I take the time to model and draw whatever it is I'm making.

I'm afraid I can't yet help you with cam type joints.  Evidently that's a weak point in Fusion right now.  I'm sure I'll run into that problem whenever i attempt any sort of IC engine.  Do let me know how you progress on cams as I'm sure I'll need that knowledge in the future!

Hopefully some actual machine work is in the cards for today!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on August 29, 2018, 02:03:57 PM
Hi,

Great job on the 3D model. Way beyond my expertise. Just wait till you are all done with the running engine to post the drawings. Should have all your corrections
solid by then. Look forward to the rest of the build and the drawings, too!

Brian
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 03, 2018, 12:40:30 AM
I got some work on the engine parts done today!  Very few interruptions so i got a fair bit accomplished, at least for me! 

I decided to finish all the shafts for the engine today since I had my 5C collet setup installed in the lathe. 

First picture is how I setup to drill the 3/8" brass ball for the reversing valve handle.  That's a 3/8" collet with an adjustable stop set so that the ball fits in the collet such that it's gripped by it's diameter properly. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T9U7hWoBHiEW9ToGMgNGSg27z1AwC_WB57YI4myXvGxMxWRuWXPSC4SdzoQ6L3xeXm0wjoUehMfBCSsS27dfZYkNR9G6QaNHy7uswNl_BYihyZgWVtR5LyqMtONULLunXCvAORRkVA9XYlbK5G_IxxCQGKMM0gLOogBaXX-C58zKhocJhq6oOvoKTvDQrl1iiSdMtqG6dxfgsFIoKxfqeTkwKFE0T7m5R7Y1UrSyUxC8UVC0Ej_DzYZJeY4maP4-cGXmGIoZ32oisB3-0vwhvKaRGGiJkYJAlhIA0soryrDY3HFKR75qh5RMxSuNbwHAVntT2KRd1-FiaCBBebVtc3ubFg6EeBLaDONwxIoCWD5zm7YQIjQNSNMr7VRfrx-yts6kqqtL_EtSoRhrZH9p2tlluxbr_OivoseySnFmc068-gNlZlMDJbFGtErlWebjHT9-aAGNPHjZpJDULcEI-tA7zuT04iK3oHOuDtFkqlc6U6Gf2NOnJomI2rQVOMRAKa_FVgx3_2x7JBGI5yEDhxkYL2xt-yUbRkBcMcGh9bw0y5pNv8cnwZ4_wODW4ojZLG-nfg86rJgYpOnPOW-AytcOafX5GlHofMvt1ynaWing2pfC1hAXWAVQoQgfwPlPEg4Lgyx18YbzgTePqeitJryPkcOqFNuWHDzevIQz4yiDLxg0kmKCsAE1=w1244-h933-no)


Collet and brass ball are installed in the lathe and I'm just putting a small flat on the ball with a 1/4" end mill help in the tailstock chuck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KLOA4FTim9vK_NhcbnaUh9P8K6LYH6PG77qAje60hhhRHjvWhioniGy8cRyQ029mp1uUGqe3tE_uOM0VLsTYmnkPBZeaCcAXU2Y_aVg__qCn8KHvKLOSE704tLeA97hYSdn54TagdgyWHcwg0O_N9KlDIztW9h_xa5bGC9JFEgO-ri137qOZTGoOYyoqU6g026vVAEWGREedrrXDZsY69tLR3GJB6oQxtSo2xNPnAzxZwVG-Q-WOGkkfUa8X41sbvD5cQ4kRA15RFUWAP9XqZMLcXUC2j8UgaKHk3R0C0sfqfE0BoXggQhDvf4o_USSQhQMMgnp_2KZjdb2fCi9D2_DMZbMk2qh3wMaVLmsaHeyEX5SzsqFi5tuKCATjwAEiYHtXBuLMxa8M1qXxaI94xxFsBmS8TO7r8mlEiwuxfos3GlFyiV9rCKDKhllQoharBKBP1NDfJ068hFabm4Z4HvfRvlCkhelGhrNQZfVETg010is_aiHtUXcPjW5Qu8eSa_WFB8k8rgM3WuoV-RZG5Ng0KMZJPdFjYoMBQ6MxL6kgo7ly2dD6ZHl_7qUe0SPRtfvmU3LwRhIm8SDAvHvE6bHNNJgmVgu-V2J8iS5tQU53vvSeGBnAcafo5BH4nJzGb2ueELsdFhiPHNc1OD2MNyrw5Agbb0vLtmP2NOZq8r3hDSTJonCJIcRF=w1244-h933-no)

Then drilling with a #38 to .25" depth
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9RAvkBtq2CdZa4YM0lQOyKl17uXvLFZJvh5Lltu5nivPr-kyk2_oJOLPwv3SMLQaLWLIU2kE_NSOTApdw5BJhXlZBuW9hfl5aULIC8JR0Zsxze9pVLRxHxidVBBfUxEEblZMLJ4rTIKGPT5mf24A3DMjCH0mtcjH2KsatrjcHoqRVaT_kXvrjfeFmSt-rDhnXTQ08eRd53yS2I1_1Rj6tyBqZPnQPemCT2xGBZD4QM06DoxR0VPZoOWWIhylF0Suy9a51k5L8HhyG3bCGXEoIlKGlHv54A7HyQ9xScPtqUkdsdlQ18jbf1J1eIIRy05lsT14zCarz09z3JwnnMUX5KLfD81MeBaZQXXZ_tvKAK4m3oX_FVU8PLgFQgIwyglOX4k54JRTincDwKpaQ1bzInJ-f9vP_SHuyBnBVTZ4xVfpHEodXvf8yZ90p4SJg2PA2JrqO9N1g9yPHmewUjeGFxOLVV7p1q5d0UZ-USNRAxv5ZnXEtp_oHLKiQ4G9haXbMYnt4A9oQ-6QW1BUslL5pSNRrfozOaRZkeffRvgacN6-BYFqZjWL79yNy1cVNlrcOUbPTsVO3KN3g0tOPpLGp76gzdeaILl30BB5wv6VrHDZWjr2vZ2psJCLQu2WCjk=w715-h953-no)


Then tapping 5-40 first with a taper tap then with a bottoming tap.  I'm using a spring loaded tap folder and one of those tiny tap handles from LMS.  Very nice for small taps.  You can easily feel what's going on with the tap!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nGsG-2SjhFFG5rCUQCQITC3mpJpiUDzOnEZRwLezKTun7ft2nYZjrqDKZuwYX22J_eC12zFzzlIcinjeSvW-NwfhCZhtgpZpQJpGtkD-5UkoowlED9ZYjnNVq_MkVr-0kJtJAcZcMqLHsIBZgcXVySxDJ7cMW68ORjmdWQmtwJlHTuRjuukrS_-u443bImPiKPbw-gHqveIA4Bq-CoTX_jAURGl-NhJ9hvNvhLHKrmTliBvM0ardW7UV-Lr-RCJG2smlqOQ0N-h9w8EOzqE0mO2DnZpvVEGbmILkM_vtn83JVslk0MttTwLgxQH4V_gFV8b2m0RoBhNDsX3Sw3r9Cj4je8Cn3oBuKXq8MhKyihVWSoH-igv-vN6pw5mFwVQqqbHgwGs4Y2FNqx92CB9HPC9QcvY7gTgk3VefqXK50Clfi8feJKilwGUHx6SwcxJ_LS19hV1KvAZd33_kfCNhzs2lpfN5zVR0Cjk41Y62hxrq1ttyMIjQilfBRRxRWdO0gtLdaBz8gg_ZCzwfoTQ1DYuU-whFvb6dM_m9_KdxgBLxNN450TqDTH4TcxCxjxTE98HNIWoYF63LBU9p5aMaEKAMbII8tJ3G_Qx0Z1zQn5fdAB69FSwluW8Ey3fpVGI=w715-h953-no)

Then threading 5-40 on the reversing valve arm.  Note that I've made a plug that fits within the backside of a die-stock and has a small hole for the spring loaded tap follower.  This works ok for very small dies, say 10-32 and under but doesn't work at all well for larger sizes.  After this engine is done I'm going to make a proper tailstock die holder as that would seem to be a much better approach.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qe-X3pzMhYJ6DjWH8KinLFWPZbNtqEZE5cgFcvgMIRkRF4kNELpz1G3txQC5ML47c45XPpTQAiL7LojnIxtzaqMDalSTyfNmePNkRgxS3L7uga7xV16o6xi8L6G_ndyQbDRXAyJVY1gWIvr8vD3N2FmV50UJ5UCfhkpvajbdCqlsdJ1GzlcRqMGcfZd3aOEV2KHtxJyFKHZZPeKH-0dpts_8jRiYBqm5jNNfJ-YvkNce2ntZKpqkNUNXmwOJ0L7ObCdEiJIbkaKYA9DTeUYdhQ2THJgO2jqk3eyuO_juqWskuwPfJcfuzW4EboFH-hoID9N35a1GSwtt-jzUfbXDxYyYpXe71rjH-9ln3M3NZ1rkVxS2fTF0PQOndPro8SgTazM_0JhQjI6m0axR9vbi4V04rxQn23xg54PjmlZ2g1PEAFW1lvMotQ8s92KMcRA_O0lUmQPnMHN4UDDRf21uEnvHx34axZJkI28sqnn0jBbWD1HvcshkQo9lFSXL2ZBAgynutPuBK3LkM0KIPcFfAvdUSes_pMWfM182HNZQlEPYMGO5ShjlyJhLRinWNM0wZd996xRTRXlHmp52bj2B_DPVhnRYX1sOecoLwckGwyVU3Gcawy4XgIbR0ZoEk4s=w715-h953-no)


Completed reversing valve handle and ball.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BGAbBOBNG9kdRuCXfA1ZlOFLWY8iPN7MfvcbakXcRSIvHzHq9EzCIQDVUYT6vogtCu7gJZdO_-JuEAMWnERVIMPLjN_VwuE_aCTFTGzmGZyiQGqt_WA0Xsv8Aw7tSq-Ip-9MlaYC-WRCrniQno4gsOQi5aq3cbWpRwvOJ5eHst84lXMJpsa2q-InvVkpOfuRJsU752LKA6Z3LBWEYOSLdxr8lRDFQtB6WQiF-dJBo-yaV0D0j4gAsugsHAF_ZXLEqqzwdZXwwKtu_42OZJvDitE4N53wIFwBahvL4IjYt5KAEY3t3DgSWZmQTkHfM1CpFFwN-an4yXU9kQXNmkrun69L8qj7PMXw5DCHCKp8Aa5X4t3uEkDBszCszMrRFilSfobH0T6en-pjrbC3GXrpRD2N4jE92P4d5wjIaAbc8-b47j6qDR_xsNt9zDGA7wo-dcG1JJPhqL1AjrgLYrPVwiIPWsCGmnKY6IEVjjjSkIuIlexHa6YAQlShNx6m6eGdsc8ZT0mUKbU5Fw69cMSZh6UyLgTSiqFMmOkkD3fZUjgBGcqHJl9qsktgBdHidAyBldl8E9U5ETfxlMRHn1D2Dipqm1FnRDvhVQXC30u6NhgRnqWk5HJHGR4cSlKIBKVnvFRsdm4tnZb6LhTEOEUpI5RWRULl_4Wi5XxjL91jtsXqEAJCanvGomSa=w1244-h933-no)


Pix of all the completed shafts; crankshaft, crank pin, pivot rod, piston rod, reversing valve lever.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VaXf5k_sl8UtB3zT5_qippkp715VCVchVIpYj5jCC4UV2kCjmR_T7Z43YNwcZuXxJa-vrzkUrW1zjEpNrtCfGmpXJChttF1D-auCIPEbljV4_XcUz609b3vUzR0x7dX-2RSPXY-IIOOLH0BI_m7fQxUW7yLdX5hrWfdwWZ2JJCV_oB-t077zS3vUKrvkNuL6AJKKZyVJstPCgpoh-ZeJYFccWkpupvK7zezM9p0GjMOZ5WZyjfMyfMYl-fItB24B_puBcn4pDM8ecEgvFGldkTdrh5-O_QqLNUkpESAi6g2HQbJbUprvCYiLHBhZg9SlaVMZyHHXqF1YbTuEot4brbdM4jxeyjoFEoMe2Dkz3MXIvgQiD3FAFQDkOI0QAZU4Q8Yy91H2CMTkjNUYjT72PV8UuSiyDGb6YAnO8CbfqGZ2ZGm1kapwOysyj84hsiYvNaam4bIMFYbe8hRFqKQdG7wathsuDs7LVuCyPTkDYI5i03b-53ijsYVqoS3Snmcb1vTdoFOb3yR5ThbaXeHbqRstg8ei1UqhIRV0J5os_5o76tMWKh46gzLNoCPXIRxNtLk05OdnBkP0AvBBN-ZlpwZGnmzehBaQRaVkbGtidGhTW2azzx3RaEcjVPc1BUkKS4trDjN6EHh5r3qEPxs2k6EH7u7CdIRp_MBwTE-QttbHK3zv-d1KBoFk=w1244-h933-no)


Setup the flywheel in the mill and centered it and set the DRO to 0,0.  Shows the completed crankshaft hole plus the spot drill locations for the decorative holes and the crank pin hole.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oukCfPP6JVAjkHV-JStIMXmHqOgsKCU3aB8tByOKoHRwcNw5KFm53RzIEbpUQ-arIZCPd2aDxCpFx3OUQBccYeLnT7X_D2d8O7LgDkFdF1DrH3quUUCr4pDdDuhbQiWJW3f5Wm0VkyN0vfMbWQPMdEXgMEeQfY7de_Vi8AtanqkerVjY7vsSvsqF_VkWhPdHf3dG76lGW3aO8H8Pl77gO6dEHcf4JFonH2OfKLdJaSl2ejDUNTBBlEmKXeinnU3lL7rTaKhJVh9v75fB60llXm2_4BaO_uNEEt-IUBwEh5WhJOd8kSaQNk0_mGCND8mlMKi0zmPIhx2yvOVRLQr2fKG3Jfitru6eR2Wy6cjGX82zJz1tt5wxuoBgfbbeWqP6JoBQ0D2Rq5I-6PMKaKp9_KdrtwFTDUxoERAyRRaYk-TFA2QDaWVQdyQe3sI4crSWGUE-wt3mtJwbssoVHd3ot7-kTLhAoPvt3TSGoTeS8E8Z09b45mhYRS7xR4qI269nUZMcE_F8j8UskRSAj8qH-V5W2hK3Tkhj16P67kK3UZ9UR_gjeOrJxOkB2tROaLIWiQa0JlhRLWr0b-X77R7HDYlhAI_hrJCR_S-mrRNa2xgA3Kgv9xeapSROQoeN4H2S39Dy5hsnbAuQ6EXdI8-7KlrKxDcB4QGPBr6JmY-3Yah47ixwsPmehrDC=w715-h953-no)


Pic of the DRO when located at a particular hole.  i drew the flywheel to use x,y coordinates vs polar since this was fast and easy for a simple pattern.  I'll put the polar coordinates on the drawing before I finalize it in case someone wants to do this on a rotary table.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AvOvadbeY12_S_i5qeqBsiTGqWy7A1K30Td9qPVuWLNyeF3D0aj2hrZ8NG4dAWg1sctt2KUPw37-1dXcj1kwtmV8fKY_J04rTgpD1tstRSiWC_oOVqfbG1K4KL5RTVZlLgbHKkjMOBZVT3B7eJnmKpniS3OaYQ7kw3GHKae7vDMBlAzr6_V1vJS5X5vyLwh7-bhQ5nN7pDUMf132VaTS-MVuF3KLc4fq0Wwxnswnxl0fNpIzRKu63dPqO-jBPoUoeHAYizMjzSg-ZCKh56x7HolBKOm4EgzkfwMblQizsUc3MM7E2J6nGJs153BrhRqisSCf3gyDxj6qCMUvGt2XfK2SpDFqwY75TqGbixOy06lSs7GFwUaIRqRp1xZqdMx8usx3THcseJJmik-tgAOvNumEt6MJVvtO37KU5Bak1qGXTvX1IChwXqMJZGQyQOkRg1TGttdMktCNk2YBHzLUsFRtdhRyydTg7TxEZGiEcdlcjgZ-Kp-TRLR-6duAgmtTfKsofWDfkEXzeQPXexYkvo7VTkQ454xnnuCOP8ljjWE_zPxxvBMsAWKWpMYVlN8VOejjPL6gPVoDOITQpWqEY0p15CPLn2bn845LzV5iOIMngWb5Xp15jemC4Ay9M1c=w715-h953-no)


Finally, the crankshaft is assembled in the flywheel.  I had a light interference fit, so I froze the crankshaft and it wold then just barely start by hand.  I quickly applied some Loctite 603 retaining compound and pressed the crankshaft into place using my bench vise.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3fs4J5CsmqwNSH0I9AXdqiG_-yYkTz3J2K9_dyCH-X652cJPd97Q1XrH_bcNG8YQOehChomZm36uLvvf-oKRmCvQAzxcHX_TJZF8z1zaBefyWKmG1TQ9pd9_APM_FbmmFHCs6Msq2PpIsNkCbjhzb3EgSCB2Le36pGGToZz2iXcqv9R-QiS6izJy1j6YUwTgBR4ZIDEKgTdkStOmdp50LjldCa3b4DS8zqm1D0cFM58uniUV4H0fz4y0fNVmDitAiCA2ZjM4Q0mC3QP6ux5E4SBeEeBNGhxHmkexPYjw3djU_sSx4o9aBbGU3xRUYJivQHvkSbCE1UsJGOEekpV2adanLy5_D7aaCePFqGsTb4g01fOaa5jYCf2hmm5YSWJEf5BmhGo3qg3nYqvMJwmExUC_7Sq2O8dfhwXQsBVjhqI-LLPHyGtIt7Pykrc_GowviJnGbssjadKoC9ECzS18qTt0Aot2Bw-ZG5QSlHHS2M23TL1IqDz14g59sLAiOFkgEayI8TMdQUFqtX11VwH9PI9n4WMbOvyOopPEdAxBNxOQMi94SL5eXfVnRjXrNCTxNb4uuA1IGwK9JK55Z7pBUXAApN7G9seGmA5289w8tY8KoP5Jo5QRbzPO4UXYxy7EowgHs9gFactw3LSipiWUd1Dx76_1bq81U51Hts1FMIA2_SRkIv_lFojU=w715-h953-no)


I'm going to let this cure overnight and then first thing tomorrow, install the assembly in the lathe and true up the flywheel.  It looks like its running fairly true now, but I want to get it as close as I can.  I put center-holes on each end of the crankshaft so that i can turn both sides fairly easily.  Hopefully i also get some more done on the column and cylinder.  I also need to order a bit more material for the crosshead guide.  I thought i had some of the right size tubing around here but it turns out that I didn't.

All for now, hope you enjoy!

FYI

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: crueby on September 03, 2018, 01:31:14 AM
For some reason I am not seeing the pictures in the last post, they are there in earlier ones.   :headscratch:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on September 03, 2018, 01:35:19 AM
No pictures here either.  :'(
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 03, 2018, 01:51:08 AM
Could you please see if the pix are visible now?  I had failed to move them to my shared folder before linking them here.  Permissions are wrong unless I have them in the correct folder. 

Let me know if this works  Sorry for the confusion!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 03, 2018, 02:13:22 AM
If I'm counting right, I can see all but #3, #4, #5, and #9.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 03, 2018, 02:57:27 AM
I've modified and then resaved the post one more time.  See if all the pix are visible now.  I'm running out of ideas as to what else might be wrong with some but not all of the pix. 

I might ask a more general question. For pictures, I started linking the images from a shared Google Photos folder.  I'm doing it this way as its easier and you get the correct size pix easily.  The other way of attaching resized pix is much more work, but is also puts the pix in the forum as a permanent record (more or less).  What's the preferred approach currently?   I've read thru the various forum posts on this subject and it seems like people do both.

I just want this process to be fairly robust and trouble-free.

Mike.. 
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: AOG on September 03, 2018, 03:30:28 AM
I can see all of the pics on my iPad

Tony
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: 10KPete on September 03, 2018, 03:50:15 AM
Pictures that disappear before the forum does make threads very useless. :rant:

This has been hashed over many, many times on many forums. Everyone seems to agree on 'permanent' images but many still use outside image storage.

As to what's the thing for you to do, that's your decision.

But if allowed a vote I think you should keep your images with the thread when possible.

 :cheers:

Pete
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 03, 2018, 03:56:21 AM
No change for me. I still can't see #3, #4, #5, and #9.

When my 3rd party hosting site blackmailed me (and many of us), I pretty much just went to attaching photos.

But I'd rather be able to post with text in between.

I've yet to decide whether to try another service. Most either cost money, are at risk of closing shop, or will change policies (i.e. blackmail) you.
I understand they idea of paying a bit of money for good service...but it doesn't change the possibility of going out of business or changing policy.

So I continue to simply attach photos from my computer.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 03, 2018, 06:06:32 AM
Yes, I agree with Pete, a thread with out pictures is pretty useless.  And I also agree with Zee, I prefer the photos between the text.
 
I find posts with the pictures all at the end MUCH harder to follow, and I find they tend to lose my interest faster because of that.  I still try to follow along, but I just have a harder time following what text went with what picture.  Sure, I can read 6 uninterrupted paragraphs of text, but it's hard to retain all the context when I get to the string of eight pictures at the end.  Maybe this is just my personal mini-rant, but I have to believe that others feel this too.  That's why I host my pictures off site, so I can do pictures between text.

The best solution I have found for this is to use the server that Ade has made available to members.  It is currently free, and is hosted the same place as the forum. So it feels reasonable for me to assume that as long as the forum is around, the pictures are likely to be also.

You can get info about this photo storage option here: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7249.0.html (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7249.0.html)

It has worked well for me!
Kim

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: 10KPete on September 03, 2018, 07:23:25 AM
Yep, that link to the lister group is what I'm using . And many thanks to Kim for guiding me in how to use it. I'd never done that sort of thing and I'm not a 'puter guy so Kim got me there. There is a close enough connection that I don't think the pics are going anywhere. Extremely close!!

 :cheers:

Pete
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 03, 2018, 01:48:35 PM
I'll check that out. In the mean time, best of luck Mike, in getting your pictures to show.
What I can see looks great.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 04, 2018, 01:25:26 AM
Today, I had another fairly long day in the shop.  i didn't get quite as much done as I'd hoped as there was a challenging (at least for me) setup involved.   In any case here's the pix and some explanation for each of them:

First up, truing up the flywheel so that it runs completely concentrically with the crank.  I hate wobble in flywheels!  Just before this shot, I'd taken a very light facing cut without the live center in place.  I didn't have to take off much, maybe .004 before that side was true.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s82XcmcXmHEqJfZtA4bI6dqwENJjYuQq0qgi9R4rRMoTVaCo7OCcFRo_p7G97RqJxIpMG-1eRVsfoCVkuffqIx4qIF6IE3ZnoXSuOyg2wZRK3fqNsj3EApfys-wPKaDnSFTp_9lVxhzOPPt9KMDYX9eC3xcSPp97kuk5ht1rY1CPghiQs5JcglMppDg5IHlIbZIIj2zsSevQGPcP8P-3WpFV2-JR_90Ghn0n791XaFx7xxHVNZKn6GbSROahXRhdxm_IXPOvhPmaxfveV30EGH04qrjg4WutqEeSH63IFhtOVccMBk-WQUVZBeD-HHZMhDeDrHc13DyCFw_Jz0z9izeEdNfhY5zDRJusfn79XHKPc5o_V7fJq_WPoxurlkfjBTzv6fulHQLCUK0n72iYLE-jOCtxeOQK6Xj8IQGdIzh6T6tRmVljVE5gv92u6ZGtGbrNKxO0bPPKm_407OyZe8MUKuvU08WgiqxWJqidRuhlZ-U-3bex4JONm5JNvvKv6CkcG48IZcP76ISX_2pfCBohc1d0NxW4RhPZsEbz2s_VIk7TG58a--C3gRxPei1XvjdMmI5ueX2CW9asM76VZAj8TJLpc5wOXk_eoxre8PIF8XhK_BoPpxxo15mWcsAark6b7bPPR5121E5s4zNBYhcK4fY0FJBkRExIUTDMnThVstoknydOtOc=w715-h953-no)

This was the setup for facing the 'inside' of the flywheel.  This worked well as that's 1/2" drill rod for the crank being held in a 5C collet and supported with a live center at the other side.   It turned out that between the 2 faces, I only ended up taking about .008 to get the faces running true.  On the OD, I ended up taking about .030 off the diameter, but most of it wasn't wobble, it was mostly taking off the rust and rough finish on the material that I was using.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dQrJ8D1-NTi0757wBqYSW36M7EIW7GdOuo4kjot6ulKtqleRU9EiJTl3n74LvsokTfEYEkWH8IWlwQRCfvk0xmCEXLUlGx7XGnPJ6fcj_6jILGF7elLXWRuQXj2U58B8dhMnDheCDLm8gh5Dw42v3B2doXWTpqBKVSPREPMdFaTB7G7dOqU00nwZXYpRq7vj899lrE5haPdIqorcJsXAr82RMHOcsL-d_PUBAdXXtQV-qwU6VMGE0gOJ8DXjTxjRCWUT-Mlt9IX7cxgDj-cjW8zJLPICwIiXhqGRsmIw6hvckOxdd1bfwTzo8kDy-w3RILTdwCR3MNuL9pSA8sXT8DsoGYzPU_9nccmeY-HNZ9g8ejfJM5gk2Krb4Y6idBL9vFAIC7frgAhRmpXQZwn4GiU43tpFGOnPLMQE14FBgpUBGify_dKGXiDwxb1YkfZCTpyBtLc3TeFRktyCsnORyrByURPNqIIm-iWWKdt9B6qbF1WGeg_ArrT2d0nUm-sX9EQ4NoyU5BbyQcuGsbq8DCXm5vISluaTnbAuMOy5-w4pObYo1yywW8x7Upr1CRa7BhTVVx7Q0BTSOauzeCX_8Glj8uSFPypwJjTXmYsdbZJJ7fUVQIELrhhjvFW-nEaJ1LcgAsc1QkqEB1faJ8SLED9AyUWeDvWV1txeJG7AbF7gV-i7tEThK8Dl=w715-h953-no)

First pix of the completed crankshaft / flywheel / crank pin.  I don't have any pix of the fitment of the crank pin, but as with the crankshaft, i'd frozen the pin overnight and then applied Loctite 603 and pressed it in place quickly.  This took a bit more effort than the crankshaft but I managed it using my shop vise.  I was wishing for a hydraulic press!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yKfSqzey1gxg8YxeGhkJAG1I6E7h8hpO1BH2KdokMLoYON6erV_zlZ9gmdtb5wSSF_CGBBtMn7vGtAR4ZkLIJQEdMtavV921Jw5KVgntgTjQix7GkWN4QYh7DPubXOe9HV_nLgt1PqMMuIY9GpOWNLJreK0YI9tRRUamXqSGZAVP9f3jzsTKAhjnzC5ul2ZnPNZRpBKIm_0OD2XGe9J2ik4-p2QwIkTeZJx9O8oSVNUQ_r4KqP71G0-MvCgPH7adi_YrET0OXRMo7evtCXnrOoSSHnV3GB1SW8GrnZBppC0XyvQXeLTaNSNqqcPA4zIei_yPUXfGz50Llexl3bmbYAol8n3c1pkzAGcyByhSo7mEkca7W7uOb-CV-tLmQaiu2NAZn74HoFiagLlu0INhMJN8s10VfFBsH_blURb7JI6aDjITag5elvQG2OTfnsDHGzWHEHlN9ZGaCrxrFOzhkVJ4gmNqHA8MtwWYIZnabTotBdOYYWqaE2m6XODQ945np3eSmGriIa95Ls4iv3ojZ_-qRU4a92S1p4pLQ9o73tiW2h13bsOBMxD-tksydnGzHvX_CmGwKA-T_h-ekZOm0sgkzHOPhlztFN3BiixiIRT8tXEMIpXP6OPkAeujatoC625KXuBsIswM26VzLhJKemHjuWWCs44D_diPmn4tEHvwsdfMO2cdS-MP=w1244-h933-no)

Pix of the other side of the assembled flywheel.  Prior to taking it out of the lathe, I spent a bit of time with emery cloth and Scotbright trying to get a fairly good finish.  I oiled it up so hopefully it won't rust immediately. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xoB10yRfcIlNOlhWwYntigAxEd0aM48sqAH8rHfr66FTKeNaTuKXkL4giMLTJfUsmO4-0Bu1EBXr3SydLV-SgVRP2lCuv9ASzAtHQtdF8zE1y0bFZDP1zb88P0lECkmKOUoM4FJspoAKcEUPuXvj-1gtOcoJ-nnTiUMIknRLEkW46i26PRpkk8yWvlV3DDCkb8LJ8t4wSNYn0AMwNfJtvtKDd0JIGCuVDzuwAF06BPuTgIRMb23BgF0gsFItsFVsJ6fHZfomwT5EnSuPsozw_3wtn62AYZPrCSFFsiIyZHdXvMi9taZ3mnzQYlDRJf2O2-rdvEBHVqv379J3YP4Ym8VAhAXs9xk41TCG7MGaaTSQ8DWDo_2a2CwAiBstRYMCQFyQszNnD1l2vJnSmBP1gdFHUEKfEUY6Rff60hvdpg759wJQR6Xks5pFJfVbBGONhMTdCDcBU0kzb2KqwGs1ai-InGCEpBVKPLCTaT8H-RB2nIQeZSziPWpQcekOFEqAdFW9ra7JzzENms2VdIeyD-0Sa8ZWxfEnSeDgBdW2blsxHyWK94XFSJcCLg_X3JSyQx2ZrUqp8er2dZj9SH8fwO1r1yoLu6_HGYGqRod3YKr4OAYJ9lD2mlZnK3FIh4Gt19tL4DWP1Hmdjp6IYrCwnwc51nZ4p05lZQs8QwbnncxaG6k12XRfVWxk=w1244-h933-no)

Now onto working on the remaining operations on the cylinder.  These pix are a bit out of order as I did the same setup on the face of the cylinder and for the bore.  Basically the same process. I indicated with a DTI on just inside a centerhole I'd put in while the block was in the mill.  I also checked if the face was running true using a dial indicator. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PAL8ojRcjl48Kh3lkJY-LIy7lOY-zIVEfLcaKSNPS0cwoib9rjC3M7e6T2BNTcVDuUVbgJD7Xtk-F5sOtGl4U8q6Kog9a0vyt6H_ABADGuzLq7a1QRaV_yZRj7MKpu-zR6qTZ8pZ7_FFwR4szgfAt_kov3b1wKIe2Bk6Zb0QR_y4YsRLNGxARfeWHRL__9sU7GT6wKf5SD6SBN3gylRyJMeDbHzhKLQQAyhxYtQ4PAiF8TfIXsoMYvt3bz1CFA9YOlpVv_9zVYO94rEKCjo7L4Zs8OfkW05KuPBmr8TFOdBeN1O1CHYmaSk7yDFddG7mZdzlugeWF0hFF8-lpFoR0O7ZPpLKs0lN-thA0igQ3RGiqk2ElenndxUGVBZxB90tHQ1X0WSxm3DOUoDVO7PenrhyBjMCubRvP_mraUgprE_OxdZWjl1nd9T4sJ-oEedR1887SB7orQe_mKNY5XDxAGOgtiHjMZb2FUtXSbwIMjUpm51tTGCNLkmsHTSxLYqVmXSPmS2FUj0lZIO-6-z8iJJZ7R0GIwZtI8ucMA-7vsFEAZ3gD2zUJdhMHX21If9c7T-27xSm8970g-uaShB_oZfuDPQ0NF4LEafdEHF3ZFNU1o8dhAjWswVTMA9EGiKwhZMT7xTAQ5kChTyxFlSeWDufmAimWUSu94EL3yiUsBU3q9C3WgGpSAR=w715-h953-no)

and
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bNmfdiahiSmS_QnB2npMsqAGGcyYtEk9CWDmTCBznG-1d496_YBmhxM77L02OnFiV53_OTRU7IlwHXKSze3c8W2q_mBbCRC_7YeBwftX_yYhS5kl76N0hO976khTlj6dWY6RcreM_28jsN5Jt_9SRCrw09zh-AevvW6uIaxHKB0i8ANLHPcpfLZvBIdDmLlGQFW1T-8qvlUiYYyXHO1AeYEO9DtOEcFanMjEc74eP3ecy29vWCvdgOjBoHU46OErCv56qKCFMdfjTIj5UodAXxZE6FigIA7OZCDoEDYARA9Bd1g7tDVMDdqm90wP2lKXsD3sCyokkptqwW-bkQp5qHjiOz1Yn537_R9qCJjrHDM_BwGJt8yWESfB_Md_v3xk5hvqO6TkD_Lyxgo_JweLKk4YsMMEa41Wzvxv6wBTTDKw-BiENYryXGVcLiDMb6RoZ1Dny2kfdEJBWwHKzsrbHcgy29EGeGuJhKZ-WEzkH3EvYhCD8W8pjTlAnwWpXxXX-Jqc2jU58wgLLzf6lLIbrj7_4CtFAnTrPLQOmYsY_A-hQajsmlXPNoownV7-Ru49qCjx8ZW79kPUzq9aGS-lmj54BSJ0qVNKUxJANqRtMuP4bY3Jgp1J-Vur40dOJYLWXZH1wI2fwHPlJZxHJ-I3SKdicgrdY2NKZZggptzw5UobabqnczWoE9e5=w715-h953-no)

Starting to turn the radius on the cylinder.  I think this is purely decorative, but I followed Elmer V's original intent.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Iusc7vlHVCYrj0JUS_qQZcZJS8WfH6Np0wIDgVWTiGdjSF5a40077ix3TLCXDy59gyOUMpYhNkGJ5OYjEa97glD72Qcq2717g-4ObaE90z-9YY57KWJgiCLzzzpWJF9OA-mFqNls7YgigLZchVpEbCAoG5I_RXRwQGoowWvaaMy2YCsUa_KausmCPVkBmcoc1bpCB0Nyg4IUx1o5kUpcDtTvfu0FnPqfhV0NE5HRi_cbQEIpVwfnHAGIQYZjMZGfFxafU2q_hn9-buyYYEZ3-YVOjKEb8fyJQTYmupJxdcsz1CtaKpUIJmTji7vFw6EwVmIlZfLMrq8AEvds1Xg2NSmOw_Gd4H3-avPJeBvlSveakHIJcnoFygjP20Cmo-0zmHvu3pEvsGuRPrjkWkRuKUci92ZHc29De8PcTqC3Nh6uliD1dbXbObpTq_cFfGaALVyeFdvY6rhgYB3JJGH1nFasNq226sCDW_Qupkh5dEpqsh9a9HxXDbs9hH1Ls2qSwCeGttIyGFli8ETJf06gPHgFs_LmBkxwTT8QOzTOEKsFU85YfJHeKErCIWV8ka1p2tXUSXK_iwjjNQPdB6sFFHJut04aDn1gGutl3cR0nimsvIxJAhAOp08Vvgklo1Hf_eFu_-Qd0BA0BRtBYqksRKO4zkZRWqzuIWpjpJdO82DK077v_ve0YinC=w715-h953-no)

Turning the smaller diameter using a 3mm carbide turn/groove tool.  This worked really well.  I'd turned down the rpm to about 260 and took fairly light cuts.  Very nice finish when it was done.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HtS5q_19dcUuxB7oTYlGcI_bg3hGd1pOPPGjH1tp7dM66wCFgzDKnkzGjPgV7q598ynBvux2ydi-S4yABg4oK-XY-qQhKfXUeW1mL0mkOSDrtscHBYG_3ntuwAnl2Sq2AG95sHoD1_rUCh_FngoLc9_99onNFCToOOsjf-QbrlMSiE0QeVrleEW_32A-Fz7jAmcn8rT_k_OOeS_BfOlVEAcD3CKwSgat4FxbzU2rrpUVa8o3qFqLxDhrklM3XWan4q3R8EjiH5vJ8NnCb32l-QEX_AHjz7B2WW-qAlS5AHKJTUHgbQ0Tm27ZfS-ya8D5B1BC9uEKTPiZhDXJT7vmm8MHiinZ1fOMEBA9xKZ0LsXzVCbhmYvLDx2a-zcKmN8JhTf9l40LZrxeaPA5Pgkc7Pzm7Bec-ubYP4rZ55UGPgpdjHFJPUc8gvmpEmezy2nWfuNwzfujOSQo1114dhGa_Gu9k2Whc1XVG0XvkEUJMIWOUiwJVYR7Yyt57rIH_ObBMBdcVLMLk9ENDxelxEdPkLEMR4K1mU_jTGmfhluB6gEB1fwH3_E1Nr4IxKDNf3V-gdP5TMc-Cr4Qf8TCjQRRJn_sHL0oPhS5_HCdTMl7REgzuk75QXCgqPcmlxcoe36x1d3ArchPcELtXuhB2HsLkUAx6demyiFugGZLAKBuL2jTUgFWszbTObfY=w715-h953-no)

Going back and finishing off the larger diameter.  Using a carbide CCGT insert.  RPM was still 260 and cuts were light, about .015 on radius.  No issues during this operation.  Also, i took a very light skim cut on the cylinder face to make sure it was true and square.  It took no more than .002 or .003 to get it flat and square.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jKB-iZ0YiwSP16Lh-QtBNXlBpybiuRFwGutpW52JM-dxVcEO8gQmTHhYvJQoRAnxgrmGSnovScFxY0TmRa9utiNnhnOthhLGOiqaMG0F9fn_6ZjNOMK1FQu75hv9HokW8-jZSGMmJBorENhPqqS0HFraN9g4s_Rds5Fpy51XpnLL2-hDpJV3Pe8W6ThyiIRUy6yG1Mlj4Xa40r4_H8L9u_9SmxyAHrd5Ip5wCeh-M9yS3Y-al39vnOeSRExZSis82bLDChjGvFB7rJFO8OP_zO7fkjqQ9UFwRnDi-2EA3yK7Dyl9-FCqpzwJvwZ2O5-IUkZRjxWolryaozWum2uawVFlVSPzkNqxtXtg6CShwL3HH2Q6jd2PVFAbOjXe_hHaQGqBxSvRhhiuh7KeWYgGar2ItcSHSt0SQ0toLeAbtQS_E4VwkzjUMuxDjejwwKb58-n1sbdvJq0IXbJtxHn35WcbNPmSg2KIbK5TCjiJNY5dhVfE2s3MED7wv0-bVAyMPgglPi9U3vUY3rFytTLeqfNddak9_N9VmDI26AWOfs_Z5Q83czIQKMhqY1Lv1VyxTFCoTyziz5FFM2Ti4i1tiIcMtnXYhu6ytc3-lKFHZCl6RPVQNV6lzckt_E6Nn3DIVd5nzDLS3wUgSLg4k6_qsvUKkeX3P19etUMDBhxRsSNhNQXBuww7quy7=w715-h953-no)

Drilled the pivot shaft hole, then threaded the bottom .3125 5/16-24.  First I used a plug tap, then followed that with a bottoming tap The first .3125 was drilled and reamed to .376 to make sure the pivot shaft is well-aligned, hopefully!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oInle195SPLQJyg8w5-YbxllPs5mSFWFRwGJauVg6z7lkOOCqBGCKskalgOvqIZhCT7UA5FobwLWVyVqFpKPCE3LO-zVN1luvlxdJNPtkc9UKGBk9hjvnPhcbrndjHxbkWVOe-mWbWQs1DYpPgvHBIW7KvAE1AwH0YL11aLhFxWCN66uF74wcN0K-NcPGBmp4DxFkcybWFyLfWuhCVB2wXzdrgGRbN3bFN_NAmR8p7ghWZwfOu5XGNAuTUxtiKO5lKLGOibgashS5PuLeS18FU4DO4slo-CIcQliLI6UsZ3KnAIqVTi0bZr5LHThAWpqYHEqCJQVaIwcc2hT73njMVMjRjN0WWcd5WcALyTg_gDtYzDgcZxn3TYDaHcPLKh6xthZYeYpK9Y-iwQFXQFBj4r4C-KjJ0g7nH-Z29JKpo70BG5QHi5_bkoGlygKxRoK0b40g0a_Bu6rgGUPxSJ_40SdwsrYa4NcTlKC1mPpawmxLhAP4jH7gIESEEL3LlN32YMNo1t2xZiC_h033T02izwrHLsPxhBx-T6wddqnFvTNw6N0VLFPZeglya42IpkjAs5n_Er_89HY-9jrj8iLd92dKUL8vkLrtcKVvdaksyCZ0yeEuL5xl4KsQFVIQKgM3Wa8yqC1r-CL244F_O3mfFO15p7gf8zECvH2Ok-eUZp8J94Fcf8FC_fZ=w715-h953-no)

This pix shows reaming the first .3125 of the hole to .376.  Ran the lathe slow and the reaming seemed to go fine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JdrP2zeC4HerLYINs7bMzefXSLpRMPw9nmoIaO7Ag8iXMlecmLxigTTDVN29-PcKirl4Trgm6cJVwpfk-YfhW8pG6MMKi8vBBnzA6C60IorRoQ3MHT4qeOXXNzrmdjrrUPr13e1nEA04-7fp0lMON9CUIKwCbqsHQoqXQ_j_xvqUNu0lspSMDakROH7ky7qt8ZQnChm6tqkzlc9Zy2uAaSPbnWkwZhASmbGmTLARkTJSs4eLcgESrl6bnkhdJB4QMvkOOfX8d-H7eUaJ8N0xq7e9uwDOg6WdRdD0SbuwT1sRQ13WkjE4C631ua0mNYbOZtvWPjlxq6wwGwRmirrMt-ZhWBRb7OlY45wehgFw9LkmsilMPaNCImJnkOZpiAvUy5hd383Oabdqrv9dJzs9KBWxrN2vh47ATq12wIagtoy1MyQW0Mx_P1QNQ_fM2ms0mLA-2hYFl6O4duLS7Io8_sKDOJV2kdRAv1dPgP7ObipPhSWuUnoDtE8gBBmFwFvtOOegyoFQT-NWklCkIrMzTlchWAAjQQLvTD0dCLUMDY2g3CFzpOk6v9kglYaVyHAxg6vg0RT_vDFcCIFYPZE3YCGW0lq6wUz3ecJ0EM-2NY0U-v8-CXjSM4lfE5K4Zw-LwEFn7hYxefm9ZEaql5cBOU-epZzSBDWwoZ9OuWsEitnwNooHczvVlCru=w715-h953-no)

Trial fit of the pivot shaft into the cylinder.  Success!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NMwgTV4vlBE4-BcoUEsLGX93_R9JfByeKqIZ-GOl7C9nh6pAHH8al-Bqz5_XvCpHk9q0Qg_waJX81LbkkjyylfGEnTu8dif6QsZg9gyxCZw1P07HDUwM-c6Inw3LRZ52jLGqoLvlJy0CghDwWaJ4Vv2ne-3VE_sHQgdutIuIXBM8pOfSPDQVQGKlodAYoocizTSfP3nQgKhs7BcSN0COHC9dnpkdBP_qkuQi-33VDT70YAI_uf0u8FMw6Jk3B93KTOg45tZGc-vQmFM4_Zpn-llR-eqfsu6IOm2pwe5h1ktRF6upXlLE6uvpIPPRHQCA9udkyKtoRuH2zf9_hO7Nl0_tJcJknRXAXElJDZJ0jUZOQUh57TnW-UoUCLMOo70Kl49_G5g23ITvbUpighaUF8v500_6n0-4EpDjdf9F3UfRujb1wow0BR_gw5Syp2zntbnsoE9uBHCyie1eK5GJVZiX5M_jIqIQl1bMib5ovVFW-kMV94CHCqDaDFdPaI5Mkfjzd_IQkaYpNF0-AtHE_EtUWmp__bkRtGKHCvXZskKH9MAtsClzB-oSzJrRe4fcpApYBzxBW21DcJlp-qFuyyRyJfBJTYZCIgTmjxOUOJyrHgAYjT26ptmUpxxQS3zHth6YuxZ3N67Ntp2r-VkdRPjwADvs_em3JyfU7Pqxr6jarO5ClAUuCaDf=w715-h953-no)

And finally, the cylinder is back on the bench, ready to reinstalled in the lathe tomorrow to start drilling and boring for the actual cylinder bore.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bbfo_VG1MKP9DEttX41DDN5lQSWPSaPLnQ2AxXbjrwxD6zT4DLTyU9470rQcsHMGl5I1fP641j3rthvFPSArVf9AD4kDvpOxDEpIhjJjwtY2A3_LMGs_rJTJBGgX_ZmbQip6pKvkNPGXK_z4ArDRuSsy5eSK1Imh9yu2MYlfNsaENw5ywtrrVmYYbXPL-k3iKyduN4K2YEEKTa87Czgi7Bk1U_QDkfVUR_Ijaon_iFLu_YQp5hdkzrrcvJLqMvr6_xT_JJWvYcC55Af6jI5kY05aLJzjdZQdc3xoHIuyBIMQNBgolpje0_hPiHMoEF39SkHbrxDSHzHn3RqT1DS1jNvtBYgdFeEWuAsgA8siCGrx9lYPOs9hzjWL3lv5A3PABnjtLEsSSu5N-qr8cu1UGbK6G52iP1-7OriLkO3MkYVAQh2e26MgyhNAXuANz6PQHAPF14nt9MOclMDKF6bQH3b70B8qpR39TIVpy3lasUFoUpWelLs62PJvVBi_l8xWpxfh0OkYoLsFn71p9XdcHH12xN8V4i67t1QcfvubV_95rBhCb7et2brDAMMtW7zqJyqjg1PzHRUs-uwemkIM4HFNQUR3OaFjiHeGfGphO701TSGQbBUPo0qf-3Eq1aFQK_KWA3zbzwH17DLevtTD50w0sD5j4JsQN_j2Sxqz4k67d6Ky8miuYARZ=w1244-h933-no)

All for today!  I think I'll have some time tomorrow afternoon to work on this again.  I'd love to be able to complete the cylinder and get a good start in make all the holes in the column.

FYI.

Mike.

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 04, 2018, 01:30:07 AM
All, I have a quick technique question:

What's the best way to center rectangular pieces with off-center hole in a 4 jaw chuck?  As above, what i attempted was to put in center holes at the required locations using the mill and then using a DTI, make that center hole run true.  This seems very slow to me.  I'm sure some of it was lack of familiarity with the process but using a DTI in a very small hole like that is tedious.  It's hard to get it close to on axis and generally a pain!   

So, any input regarding a better process is greatly fully appreciated!

Thanks.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: crueby on September 04, 2018, 01:59:45 AM
I normally use a dti on the sides of the part, make the first two opposing sides have the same reading, then the other two.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 04, 2018, 03:05:19 AM
Sorry Mike. I can only see the last two pictures.
I hope this isn't too frustrating...and I'm beginning to question my browser but I haven't had this issue before.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: propforward on September 04, 2018, 03:25:44 AM
I can only see the last two pictures also. Great work in them though.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on September 04, 2018, 07:51:08 AM
Mike - same here - last two pictures only.

The cylinder looks great though!

gary
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Jo on September 04, 2018, 08:05:07 AM
Hi Mike,

What's the best way to center rectangular pieces with off-center hole in a 4 jaw chuck?  As above, what i attempted was to put in center holes at the required locations using the mill and then using a DTI, make that center hole run true.  This seems very slow to me.  I'm sure some of it was lack of familiarity with the process but using a DTI in a very small hole like that is tedious.  It's hard to get it close to on axis and generally a pain!   

If the item was solid to start I would have marked it out and only centre popped the hole position then used a centre in the tailstock to hold it against something parallel while mounting it in the four jaw.

If you are talking about your bearing and lets say there is a rough hole already in there but possibly out of line I would start by marking the horizontal and vertical centre line of the hole I intended on boring out. Making sure the item is square in the chuck - centre those lines on the two opposite jaws of the chuck. Always worth checking with a square and a Vernier calliper to check it looks right.  Depending on how much metal has to come off you could adjust the location after the first cut.

Better still use a jig to mount the bearing on and then you will get the centre on the second bearing in exactly the same place ;)

Jo
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 04, 2018, 01:31:10 PM
Mike - same here - last two pictures only.

The cylinder looks great though!

gary

Ok, I've redone all the links one more time, making double sure that I'm using the pix from my shared album.  What's driving me crazy is that everything looks good from my side when i check using a different computer.  It might be an account permissions thing where somehow my credentials are cached on the various computers I use even though i'm trying to use different accounts to check. 

If this doesn't work I may go for attachments directly to the email.  That way the pix are stored on the forum, but they are not inline with the text making understanding the workflow a bit more difficult. 

In any case, let me know if these pix are all now visible.

Again, sorry for the horrible posting attempts from me!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 04, 2018, 01:38:49 PM
Yep. All pictures there and they look great!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 04, 2018, 01:41:40 PM
Yep. All pictures there and they look great!  :ThumbsUp:

Thanks for confirming!  I wish I knew what the exact difference was so that i could do it the same way each time. 

I'll most likely have a new batch this evening so I'll see if I can do this twice in a row successfully!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mklotz on September 04, 2018, 03:58:45 PM
All, I have a quick technique question:

What's the best way to center rectangular pieces with off-center hole in a 4 jaw chuck?  As above, what i attempted was to put in center holes at the required locations using the mill and then using a DTI, make that center hole run true.  This seems very slow to me.  I'm sure some of it was lack of familiarity with the process but using a DTI in a very small hole like that is tedious.  It's hard to get it close to on axis and generally a pain!   

So, any input regarding a better process is greatly fully appreciated!

The method that works best for me is the use of what machinists term a "pump center".

Picture a rod with a male 60 deg point on one end and a female 60 deg recess on the other end.  The male end goes into the hole to be centered in the 4jaw and the female hole end is supported by a tailstock center.

As the 4J is rotated, the end of the rod near the part will describe a circle the radius of which is the offset of the hole from the lathe spindle axis.  A DI held in the tool post is used to track this motion of the rod.

Using the DI as an indicator, the 4J is adjusted until the DI shows no movement.  At that point the hole is centered.

If you're not comfortable with the 4J, you might want to read my treatise on centering work in it...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/centering-work-four-jaw-chuck-27241
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on September 04, 2018, 05:27:46 PM
Looking good now...

gary
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 04, 2018, 09:15:31 PM

The method that works best for me is the use of what machinists term a "pump center".


Marv, that's exactly the information I was looking for!  I can center round stock up in a 4 jaw just fine, but the rectangular stock with a hole that needed to be offset from center was difficult for me.  The way I did it, as shown in my pix, using a DTI on the inside of a center-hole is tedious.  The 'pump center' will be much, much easier for me I'm sure. 

BTW, I did read your article on center in a 4 jaw and it's very good.

Again, thanks!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 05, 2018, 01:52:08 AM
Today's work.  Finishing the cylinder, successfully I think!

In yesterday's episode, we had a cylinder on the bench without a cylinder bore.  And here we start.  After reinstalling the cylinder in the 4 jaw and recentering it as per yesterday's process, drilling the bore commenced.  There was an existing 1/4" hole done on the mill, so I first went thru with a 1/2" bit and then with the 7/8" shown in the pix.  260 rpm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5DKewirC-sr53Hddyr5elGprJpSb3uFH0LfQXmoXy71WMcYg3xrT8Nzy5x2DF-dxQtR2hGztFbPtzAIlCg7hYmyllKPbHyq0T8M81XVYfmIX2Ew8BlkJaVDkE-6YFOltsKiepT0KNSq17yZxY9xC3x-7SK4KUr1CltfthsziUTSIzgaIRN4bUZR-ncIrrmF88vY1xIW5uF1TyNgfP-ZU33pWO732r66wQ27M6127O8UNOGoGAiRJdrc8HoDmCuuug6uOWZknDiYbkJ8SpilrjHawx4ioCln7THCC-xCE9e6ZSHbeb9k8py1fQiBPgV32XNNLa4Hqaf_-2--OmSnZftJABqNLc90EJdmYq5MH5wv0UZ8W1YTZ4LnhQU8RFDt1GiJhLgavj0TU9jtfSZidP40tUdgm_E4tSe-yyHTVnhBn5HP1euJmVCkZih8N2YJWTZlqnv0swHAqtAy3XMkdxj28-kSfQPZGZxpX_eyxFCnlDBw2POD-RyApl8XVvbY_TElnM-yQC3H1bksfaLCVjjEhQYRl3233phX8uKTOcaUYN5oaRC4784l2JePwUtSVhw45au6AAQ_Nka2lwPNzzAMrF3OKkghKnBc13wo20-3YM9HafiMYFAyTMIIsCU7XMiEyR-nzyn66YhZckp1F0RnqCoBcq5TrGo2iASgE7pNo467jLTHzDEH7=w806-h1073-no)

Action shot of very even chips coming off both flutes on the drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KABg__kAPMteQruFJKa2kKdggJArUpsw-kMmfECumYb33mBJsXDKzXE8qCnGJfIKxwe8KEjGXk3l2HktduVkLtJBJphZqfLxHrngWtMIMYdkUIgAurCxtxeXeHwKokw54vtbasr_heysbh0xIYs5gcRYyA0FzQsj4GNv6bVGADUgoY63yne9EC0Ly5o2MG0E0-vMaCrGLQwvWW-UYERIMQpzZ5Bdhx_JUSVpmI0YzlFe5tI9hi2W9UxJEYqbRm6K0eVhpOC-MQ-K8jbBfbt4gIxHofJYohvQCfu7EcG4gohVLCmgrQmazPMHZSt5BOO-EKwkC6la4-wyMhyYKNwqH7JxLAxVOD8aIPVMaqZ5V1oxwWRUkJsrTl6j6DnsMbMDDTuJvReaQMDqn_HRnBT6HBQ8lzFbfF9-mE15I3xcex2s1n-Jq0flRLl0Ql3aVZb0uR3bnvTbegUFD9TNR142znfdYR_1b0hTdsb_4ndJSpsiBWLE6B3X4vhaPU887xhQEdEsGuiQnOVV1QI7gc2I4nLqKEMAksi14JiUkuVOUgVcBwz9nIFcm6vja_4xw9cFME6rvAKLhakRDjCUHrG2JmNI4BUKITzLajgjtZ9E3J_YioMPnoh964_NQ4qYVcnbg0dmBQpS8NK_qtOKSS6JmRXfxe90JoTAGgCzxZ2LRrEOeAKyLDjUIjIB=w806-h1073-no)

Then commencing the boring operation.  That's a Sandvik bar with CCGT type inserts.  Very sharp for use on AL  Bumped up the rpm to 520.  The initial passes were .040 on the radius and then a couple of light passes of a few thousands to finish.  No issues with chatter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xeci0G9nW8-0Zg2RCWxZO0GUbm_e4fkA9zYAsWvjNqqDVjg5Z0IkWrCQc-6FABdJNV4eMc9kY5Es_1Mzri6A7-1l4XY3T0hJfeMbTGFCPJkFinZO7_d_HzucAbfK1YAZWqPmeU-HKlKPTewdX8TeUmENxdYA4huNEGSQU7ZslRr7uc0QpKW3Asr55fXyAIFKBx97ZEOPcKPs_eQXQ_uLcqnqtstWb5_rRJ-QSrRVPAeUseg07oAThprosGvgzFzvQA01OJ2e4KVKEH65up4jvOk5NdtFhhEVNU8_B97V1cNG9qf0U_BuJUNRwTiPIRpKuU-jnC6Ts4H7JOZxj9b9ibBxSnXvQ0LDNJ6GBdt75LgjCJnT2DWVhK8S41T1ll4eHVRTcI-VwMrF3pUH-Z2KNiYVS9nh1AzuKvDfBkAGSQwrmGFZfQwrTqAFhJTS9F065SRJlUKevhbnxGT09rdgNm4gnhMvS6b4QcWrXRVqrfjD9LJ5oB8pYLijjO3mxqhmgxp3bTGe9G63V2PuRW_k4D6-1ic84J284qVwC7nNwIUrrhnnjw4as-iqmav9DjlaRlQU_-Etnfw4c-iUwMLQ80fndNN03-ZYIR32ChCera9OHW6zsLj6u7z8f7OfxGVDNzncM2TIQ3cgy30c84YHntETBUYqD6mDPLhKz9zrsv5WAw-JQHCrRKvL=w806-h1073-no)

Here's  pix of the overall setup.  8" 4 jaw chuck with homemade AL protectors on the jaws, AXA tool post and boring bar holder.  Sandvik insert type bar, Traveldial, and Unist MQL lubricator. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MKsVDsMwXXysI4PognrVEdomivRxvnNeIiWWlbjQ779sb22fvJHbwqbkZahwo9hqnX8Kya5SLL94a0h4TOn_nmx-QhyGOgAn_VPs1UMaIsMRLoLpzGFyghSfydx7xH_Dx1nw7tK-ONpadmbeDDzWjNm6ix5aRSetWfRow-V3rMow2IKFs1zHGFY_3EdrvoyOMcCMgbUIfNlFEnmWxSF4Jb9jm8QzOs-sceS1JfjpZVLASW-DQikbaZACOQE7Y-FVcgWJFzWIZACJjABBVHMTKopR-9qhUKm14mNc5BcM18PZbegAuxWABH5X8XbXXWtTmN8pn1nPK4Nbf4RwnZ6hNH_rDj_GwV3Bst3x8kYmOZ0itZbf5gCF26ZbPAjXPdBAoAHNE3dFIiIrKwd6uTAaU50cNCQZnsZyiacBIn__RBzAqWr24XQSe_d0hjxRc-dpzj6UqsEz1VA5rd52HFyqg6eeHGWEOCn0LsSC1iiW34VWHhCUlWJglj87hzNt1-1Jdc6K1mE_9Ns2Rjf7dhv_EBMz9eKAyeBj4kVd57hfxwWxX7nbHJu2d1445OJEbpyUWs3QKhxATZtTruo41J6oRtrU9rM4CVn2Q6E1_VteHr9143zKH4rkJi0HcYYiktVWxtYGZADfvej_SB9GLapNXo1BsF1F9aA9Av3p3Gd68NYWFzAHXV26tcvf=w806-h1073-no)

Closeup pix of the cylinder very near the final ID.  Just wanted to show the detail of the setup.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hs3ss9N1D6afgbzJtVgoX5ksUVTwr7gv91O0pBVbCfafm7FyLDK-B09F-suvzs-AlGQy4GzdpdvhzhfSwQFOPjRtqsLPF56x1vxgV8R3ztB-gJOJAnE4W4ReJVhNRAwWwnnao9Av-XhxKh-6jLezQhXPUwUO0a-UOVC7GsAmUdyP-CMqTVvQqVcJqLjMwoXl6cxeDqhClbFg-5tyoE9aG8aKNrC_Vkto3dWFrWUvQoq2ZXq8dmOXvj6wuAiDoTp799oNL7dlK5xMabQcGtk_F6Dpe_45AIgxBi_BACZiGb76WnDxW-k8gBvYyv_QwoVcn6WGmJHSTg85B6KVum5lEx_CyIlLS-FKCyYo0E-L3JIPSxkmvL2pf7aVUHFw_f9AWTGPuGC1a9HDT7y9CKnIlOWPCbQlCJ57LgCehKu3IAYAyttDfNfaFFLgEaUAADEMNpjiPZ9HGg8TefKt-XZIlQyhtvMxqp4fKwVHcnwuRTLw0Z7Yku7ZI7xMlfqhWY5uQZKyxU8AVmJx6fo7A_cz7QrPxDfjxNd5HUq2B8v7ulSYljc-VwIPVjga6xseaj6WT1sS4I1jq9pzE6V9vzHXa8CFpyfb_nTg2UnzcZInlHMk2CAYXFBDQ-_s3ia5pJaLTqn4yG-F95W4B43noHw_dD4uMYdpWQQNvajoPwvqCaFADOsxErSrJqaI=w1260-h945-no)

The finished item pix 1.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XOd6GSvKVvpUFzYTx8iIybMEIpZWKNfeEmyqo_SigJV8f6jkQj0D6i_TcZIv-xcz_vk1Rn3heQjB6nvR_Cu_5KKBTQoCRBwrvg1MeYcplz3tX1dneeaP-k8SB1Qs5PGIAsUVZfXK7gsCBXezX1VsLB7Kl7AFYVPIc5MjhzZH473oPqUrDqc6oBhrB0tSRaJtX3W_BU3957ZLdo2bL8Z_nciLNh0sHVcZEaSEXIMDjhpi2TEnsNHBQ85Y7ttQXqJZHwCbr9sUx1uL45FF6Znkd88QzdbA8d5sNVywv-9JiXnoBLUlwxTqbswHNdvjLeIQM_QshqJJheM3PifBLs72JsIYZncoHy2dGr3OOAg3xOuIGGKQr1tkvBoFr4UeOLc4TdKnVtl4L9-Of8VVWZ-D6GpmzZeVWozTf-sepJYH7z429NBIyPMQkO73fgyPEYjsDUVCUD4sOgwTXYITMILEejKvRg_2pOo4a-vj_0jwBIovAC9YaPZXW4L1eumkBkaoyValeViHT0JsACx9-KbchwEdruavSRaTlVWG9zV0g5QA9QEQN_EJOkP8kiIkRR0PLe0hMtzU4v_pxpXT1AyxdTQnvoprCTPM3P5XGgHrc75JVl5DR6iq5i0KYia0MRBGqx61bStNfDjLYuoMo7qs71Ws2UGT1xy125_KqUK1saoXv6gymYlJJijS=w1260-h945-no)

The finished cylinder pix 2.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JEr4UPuGascBthMF9Go3QNo_xP3YVkoY_pAm8JSSpvDEy9pJOGO882T3rCWW3q6n_i9a6DsyERrjmVQ7wIhROp8UQgG-XGglvApa_0-uXGjbE-iI4gQsU-bhm8KNH-eT7N6UhuBpBOBSIlvEcTF_wMjB6GixanVcyP_jJBd9xUrwGYeauLjVCtftIaGyBfuXzYBE0X9R1qP79-m2rIEGj6lABN8tBjC3DvDysOaP-QKI25cR7b8xjUflXB5I8XCKcSa3eJ7CyfxuYhfEvsaDgptCsbLs3dww-VaT0xIrp9LwaIFYUwLpH8LrWWyWDUjw4CBWY9jZj8PEqBoysKOYqy5ymBMuTekfCaGO1GjN7AE3phOQJKcr6p7OU_j_TpIpu1HlSeDwW2uDFuNVJvQWzAll0wZeD8m9Pbh0_VbVsC52P9kBkvphZVPSOV-8_uQVZLbal5LH2a2qK1oCPXxNgVvWpl1P2onG-CUZW2q3M_C4bpD2KT6JHrSO-CqBjr22Rm_oBDpMLDDpL-6EEQcJH_b3yIBY-FmOFtJ5XXoZyvtvUJLOEkNWwfqZ40TRuXfa6aEKuftxhrXmQZBNYqbMdWbFQC8NQI9vXlIVPL9DKJfb2buc6TbVkk9837MN4q5_2xHyB0w_c5BnBDK1w8MeJTncZXD7lQ3H6s2qQ0djdYiMaxd8b8N9rPae=w1260-h945-no)

And finally the last pix o' the day.  I wanted to stay about .001 under size so to leave just a bit in case I have to lap or hone.  I got close enough for me!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VTEm7XoAxdvxxJ7zWD9dT1CiLXIdrJpQasOer5zgbfqOrh1HPIxh_VgFSHnT2SagWntS6-A8pgNti98QScGwMg0tRvuxT5wGxRTErQtntTi_xK_vdKoaWudIVUr16nBDpSszq_AyGiT3ZXnRdhTmYTN13LwaCf3inqtsQTUZ2qNJltXBzUF-C9tQqPOZtBZwGwla7wdrq0ZSB3HDiouJKXPbRIJSkxMZzWDrxB-HtVQ0DVr9GJQBVV1ObM8oiHRmc_fJyg4DEWvUbbISSrxMIFeX2x2LS9qs37_mwYYlRmiTNKmpSbOnnha2_lq2B5CaMGE5ZUHCVAtl-UyMsCuLYNW0TfT57VIKWvFEFrVM9dB165-KDIeZifTZpt_UelbLlY_o1UZVFCvyMgPJ78KJVdVapnpdfGqW5lMjenvXygFCwsUWRDr_8Vlwbym0JYAmZ6zttFPXIl940qLLVa9tB9hQ6AIZ-o2FKs_L6p1Txc94S2RpcC6wcP8bjS8C70fDrq-FfhjdtVUStc6M8UHQKJN7daFK4D_-UzfWiU6z9l5nTYfDWQ4RMrmJU-ycfjm1I2_NsB0hdtA0M866xQuhgc19WDbGv1B56oMg5Q8Kg36if5rA4lBG735NYtblrh4U0FSJ3XxJVto7RKa3sFkfa0blI_USbPAIZYVVbCDcUaT_9M1o3nT5nf9O=w1260-h945-no)

I must say, I was quite thrilled to get this item done!  There were a number of operations that I'd not done yet so I was nervous during the entire operation!  Tomorrow I'll move back to the mill to drill all the holes for the air passages and drill and bore the large holes for the crank bearing housing and pivot shaft housing.  Should go ok, I think, but 2 of the holes require a #21 drill to 2.4" deep.  Wish me luck!

FYI.

Mike.

PS.  One quick question on the cylinder bore.  I achieved a pretty good finish on the cylinder bore ID just using the boring bar with a good sharp insert.  Does anyone think that there's a need to hone or lap that bore?  I have a small brake cylinder hone or I could purchase or make a lap.  So, is further finishing on the bore necessary and if so, would sort of operation should I try, lapping or honing?  I've decided to try a Noryl piston closely fitted.  As a backup to that, I also some cast iron bar and some SAE 660 bronze that I could try.  I'm also planning to just try a close fit.  If that fails, I'll cut an oring grove and fit a silicon or viton oring.  Thanks in advance for any help on this!
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 05, 2018, 05:47:14 AM
I'm sure that more experienced people will reply to you on this, but your finish looks pretty good on that bore.  Not sure you'd get a lot out of lapping it for an air or steam powered engine.  I see people doing IC and especially diesel engines doing a lot of lapping, so it must be more important there.  But I've not done any IC engines.  I have used a hone on a bore one time when the finish was really bad - that was back when I didn't have a boring head (didn't even know what one was) and I used a drill to make the cylinder.  The finish wasn't very good at all, and I used a little brake cylinder hone to clean it up.  That engine runs fine (though it does leak a little air, you can run it on breath power, so it can't be TOO bad, right? :) )

Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on September 05, 2018, 01:41:34 PM
Bore looks pretty good from the pictures. I use some fine emery and Scotch when in doubt. For air engines I find that this is adequate.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 06, 2018, 03:02:16 AM
Today's work.  Working on the column, lots of drilling and boring to follow!

First operation today.  Drilling the deepest holes on the column.  This required a #21 drill to a depth of 2.4" at 2 locations.  First pix is the first hole in process.  I ran the Unist system with a fairly healthy stream of air.  I also pulled the drill out of the hole fairly often to clear chips.  Evidently it worked as I got to depth without breaking a bit and the hole was straight.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zJnjrAZCIuiXGxTfeYsgmz7BrWFGqmKTnzfbw3Aaq0bk17PtY3GlQs1sOTzDZ7WW85KENnBCFd6u1wnVcNqx-cVSdDjMCNS7yf6MRb_J-ahwLQcIyARZrjR_V5O3i9BywQQlcSTXG-CNf1gixepO0pmKHo6Mhjo78_FElJmpW1_u2ZciJ0uW10XmKpJfa28AseKWhoMsJF4Gi1utequ789N2eKEk4sHC6RI3AP74BxgKsp1KZKqfUEPqAMfj3XRtKQe7KMdd6kVnpPsoGdnjsuAo6ecpAheSroQ_DvPuPb9N3QWsr2kkkHgbt3VyHFzn3JwxO41XLadEMJeLqOfzBZjvGYUVIqbt0ragRZEf81xXNITcnNTUYoVYMAutLZ7t7JzVtAhn250fdRVOUNq6I7R__8UWRDT9hsUjk5j43pliuEd8vg8FllxFT3ir7lBQqL_6qYYe2qGhiL7tXrQQ0Ca8UvVuvBJpVg0qp0fcZPd_AntTIPjXxxRfB4D4EfXXJ3EVDjgQo2kUIyoU5hRQUXs7yAWCygj6gmxIWClB9YG7mPmowLhprzxGnOq-fdrddbCBqceRvSnoqb7ZmqlqKzAIXqGOLvMOHSDG4_b6e6s7S7meYPXZl88JH7YxuuB8ngB_CQg8sR-ewn16GFMtEz9u8tOPJYEhK0fMKy_t6A-IypP9W17RXXTu=w715-h953-no)

A pix showing how close I had to get to the work with the chuck.  I used a standard jobbers length drill.  If necessary I would have gone to an aircraft drill, but this juuussttt made it!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XIbSDk-DvqoJyMw-9JkoDBIsnODYmiNdPBjLHGNeipt1IAFlcmPa0QxkO2f8WNNEA1gmISoBZ_MaQ5tjlptig5LHpfKIjvecZHk67ahXvqF0NPUILm47WJ0uvSMf1kTsLEj8frZc57xw5xntNBOCEWdVksckMtwNVQxX-Omd0vGyuR8upCkLM1YuQni2NScxieQ_vMye3DvQonYxrG69oiToe9NM76T1DA_L-E0LluSwLa03TzCrq9Kb3WNCDlaJ_nVxOFpiF8C8nJBKraw7yg-aGK2UwvG_jh4DgT69v3OXpv5HsgsJy-zR6SoqyizezC9nMuQ_U-bjnuH491V550hDGfPb8SYdEcv5gDWzVrmCKij3VKuLbTifmnnLMBNA5T98VhNIP6Pr1MKsMp0IkchCT2T2B64mlFzcmsEgGHs_xJnottt83yL5Mwq93NygT_8ZrSY7lu17CM4QZGNQ2cigeRsQaqTAkmq5BFWM2tmgCRFETsj2BP8kIMLXtVovRrdSDT79eytGPo8rR2ZWX5zh-XubjR0FzvuH742_3lza_aBzYtGfrpBIR_IeEPP4lslh8FJQenQeOgldUPabdtuumxgoDLe-1r8-4joF_XiM1HwujyvZNBb-FjhsRbhWzSO_n_ucroGykAcBPFDyZpJJws23DqR0UrTt6UCsAV35TTqpv0uveJ-g=w715-h953-no)

Quill DRO showing the depth achieved.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7IU6S1T4XLKCJcfXPB2k2OoLZEfxARNJBOEYjL7qlRLCpjbwR4_akbFAY71496SeHmd6udp5eA9jV6R11ElF5hegXMv0JEgj3gIW0naGCyD57EQ77zWQn3mAuNOWSY8eW6xtT4t606qgq9NzLqpy8Na6sEKZZF2MLSm-z2oftDxJGHVHicvByN4kDl4lmM7NdubjuuqAdHT7xrNLB8Ryb2xa9yWiqmJswQJViZBc3zW2LxL_w1oKscHlQomgO6kiDFw55XKgPPYV2hpcP_pqOkHnoKWfk0nd8uzPLeQ7eKi3UEDOZ6LiOOpsoJO6FS0z-TYgFrMUOK066Uk6GwIWk4K82A046Y-bGfEHxrFsd9kgWT80Er-ADheFcvSrbz70iQZB0h5LRXvl898WiaRpBvjlzockFAzWWVq4ECTh_qWxmS72fOGsuZ0vZtinL_ZWxjnuKOo7g3lhO9C72OomxAvPN1qAKz2djtA1nm2PgUyQN3yfm9mmyg2q4x1MnmcuQ5EF5qr-fDUFz2xLci-IXd-_9BbTIoh8caOkkvdyTkR7Eh9Bh9fmgDSkRVezehcZFJCNZCQrtrdcnjxulD3L1qlIWNa2fZ_FpdZViyi4iOZWNyH_2am-6ZU9yU0vdIV5xcHuFoYg9sfOSkgz5ObyD0l9V6HM-BzTrUl1niGhFUsu6RZTRSdzdr7z=w715-h953-no)

I decided that for plugging the various passages, i'm going to use 10-32 brass set screws driving in flush with the surface and sealed with some Loctite 545.  This pix is just tapping one of the many holes that needs that op.  Note that I labeled the reversing valve side.  I did this since I was getting confused as to which holes went in which plane.  Kind of like a surgeon writing on which limb to amputate!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZDEOzVcqcmAPaXE22Q57-LXkrEsHfoT39hUpfW3Bmc6uQ48pY2wna__D4Iry3CZsnYBL4ui0oeoigaCnV5D7TgHpcCcDc6F3QPUAaxsjqLaDf4Jr9oFcvwkHeysvV4t1Ags74a4xPoo76rRWfr4h6GUjWqmBF9O6QIeikmPCu5YPX51B2t5Sk0C8gjrD4_blhjoVfFtI-w2MoB5zyxiNV66JeeXxO0Xn82cLvM9a3ih-4eyyELN9Z3xgmGMv1uQ2sobScnlTHWeOkTScs0HcWYfNEJpR463FqjzV7GkFsaA5J0YcVIWbNFMNrHxPIM6_KJTylKyzSIdsvk_vAKP428Dk3kVEGsHfTkoTCuCSWUnodXklu7nRlw3U6feDgaV3WkH5rbTkCj1bByJQJs_M19TVz-47NMWs2vCm9pWPE7vBz21Li9KsCvMAZ3N3w-TYBn1KqS-6QJ2IgQexRNBVkDQtFXAB684xkZlLL1qjqUi2yl_G8McySXViqyLcvjFx98DDBHemdfaV32aqejPOOMBp-Y1i7iAa-d3zOMZHisnYmwK314EYc9dMUfKm3emZuxhsPxBM9kJFQ0bUNMUfNyWQxiA8Ba14iufOqRisX6GTHI5j4hu0Lw56w7wc5BVAlVPR_pwaBhQJNS46jAW56h1pGO7ho__Xi-_Qhz5fwZaaOgGEwffb8ugm=w715-h953-no)

Another possible source of confusion.  I always try to put 0,0 at the lower left corner.  But since ops have to be done on all sides, to keep the drawings consistent, the opposite side has to have 0.0 at the upper left.  The pix just shows zeroing at the upper left of the column.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3yzxJkeT5xmS_trSV-T9KMjOxkCoF7JhMAPWXgbAlGLppDPa8j9gdRea3qOFiih5szfrprrkmJGILwWmvoblt2oqr_Veas6lQtU2RlFxdJ-5g4791vZpOzkafgJlrhzc2vfiyulk7oIzZbnL3F5dWojUvJwPRnk1bUUbYL34IgxW2CzWOO00HRrCWpqeQe3m-SG1myv-pjprRlsEnJu48kbE_8JiU-Fh70gwZQY5UOuT_o9k0JhJ7SXKKZX4WS0ICyJXJyDqRkWK_Qxvv2VKqlsuHl3UQ4yfAT-R7h5FcwyW9EXJPMEIJehe8iTcvVPsqLoQ4dP-L0BfBABfYDopigVyKesvzbag6UzpGAP4-_3hh0_ohFkove9TNk59BVVbjGbcAeWg7acBjgs-ZBCK8MvAGltKGubTo02DVQvNU5DLE5jMAhMvT57VW9rm36DL9TE-OqlxdZH0l7GGCRvRc3bp9ssgQSUFCVkWyoK0-UF_QRmsqaBWs-zpbcpQtpvsBzFK3hVtAclAawUP0KaPZOq2xW_3VUXMS1Y1ZZ-eAEljD-3elgX8aQpAbRtrt1G0lzVQQahnSbTMABuWVVyvOG7oS5sMLplSJwGDokfEnnwTRrk9EzCGMS8RMbJQGj6NasW3kVyOPkUDI6w6EvfRy5sYqHbT12u0-PUarhXA-cqVo5zMFHeKePmJ=w715-h953-no)

Drilling the various air passages on the reversing valve side of the column.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Et7ba--nbpq2HL67dCY55Fbim1I7_BRDUTYiU2oR7UVpo7dMYYM9ps3xx9sFL5XKjdBEYr464rbRRAGphJbroaqABjBCSDFXXhTF0DIkOFo4d0ytQar3HNtKttXGrtJ7o3fjVGk4C19aRClecHjq8A1K9__lPQtsEouh5YEUD6pJZHI7Daxk6IUIHePdaQSwR-rpzcJKVMXURLu8qfEQcugRwUuH2dXvjNc7vY2gVC_hPUyZG3-a8807S4gDUFOR6gcnD0NIzrHXws0nRXshUkWAo2KGQM0JqXZIux58OMkSbPhn9jo3lO3Ql4vjNbzLfRGRN2R8iqCDuIIZVrj7Bk-SMPHWONa1ybFHf1UmfFEIFg_rz1TlsCm3gvD-PV6dMxQu8cqn0Ny5keGU82ddmxQTiNnTH6LhXbYOFJQg4vl481kqUs_FmbkMJBw1cjO8wOfV3WN9dSsAhOh-_04B70dDtMW7EqwGEVn5lrqaILTt7dEmQZ4TxJrTe0i7GGZoGE-eu45b79pyNQ00MXoVhCxaBI0QLW81i6Ywf0OgclvVmpmA7qAYovinUC47Y4VKDNfGkDAxn6HRue94ZXOMJTNCFQPZ-2P34NYRtxvXITqL7-76KMDeNF6KtoqKuH3PEXT3OdtrWXocA4XyfKtGLiKJtOT11fGNWSN9GLJZo0y9mNnGJ3sFf9oB=w715-h953-no)

Drilling and tapping 4-40 at four locations.  This how the crank bearing housing will be attached to the column.  I did this by hand with a tap follower.  I was cautious and stopped about 1/2 way on each hole and blew it out with air and put some additional fluid on the tap.  I managed to make it through all the holes with no taps broken off!  I count that as a good thing!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ygNi7Zwc_6A5Yo9bzLtiHPXjOhfr_A9O7DVl78V-03lJXJ-yW5DxCIJ_OreU6_8A6Cp2OAwVqmPzIfukDAaR-Ypi58xk2jj0-BRlUiqkcENS18j6ApXzcSYUko1jd5c05A6_5dMwZeB1fro6Hl-rwLZ62ZnefyLJZdo8_-ukOCe6UpCVV-aFME89HyBnxII6cchudHmhSMZC2qWMh0S6BJm1aErZ4-ADvhUWoZJTU6WEP1GsRsEFsHDwxE2Rtjk_UKthSExyo0jsPhQvG8lv7uBssraA-Qis1iIYL-pHtKKLbBPzVv18vXslMc57A8w4q2hjtAJPvaTVTP6rdL_CUaNRnmL8-GULopoyKqCbs9WVo4hYqVnNfNmsaOu-65cuOla61JbMNa0CTa6DMlvrUykjzOayCk5aQ082c3sbFFo5LjMm9RXUwG8IEptO1CFCxCUonJT3oGl1xvLkWS-MFbFESSt7FLyhL7a8Ptf7qgjA58meKEledTtcqY91KAIgyQIAz1hWISqSefvcir24WlEp2HfNQwMXZfBoLoH2VEAXPqTXddcp7Zt9c2FTGrCi_F7mX6j2k7snTNlWREJma4EjSBY2bQrodG7lzAFEMQhfpNu3jFpF3cOCcFmBlycE3hDWrrjUWL0rvWtn_eMxakZwfUfR_PhhRWS1z7VexYCOwDMzmuI3l4o6=w715-h953-no)

Drilling for the 3 large holes required in the column
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eFTPgz1TcB4-mgSZTr5wb_PoyfH4QgMDMGec9dRbHsVhrPYMks7q6ZHNpq_CQJN-KjRFoiMmHT1MfzdqhcnrySSKEitHr5sK9BJ41oWeNBp13wsG-_egvtg9CMd68u2QZYtlQbsh2JgoL-a6Ad2oPLNZPPAT8VBNeA6rDiZORYJciGAUin6nAfTg4Mj2Z_2m58zXBubAb1kV5PLeVMYvNddN5Xr-10RL476q24UxwRjlODkFJG2dq989X5NOEGIhdwR73m2O-O2lpy54qgkxaTeTvfZ9I_NmqDWbG1OP_6V2jJwi7W_ai_1b2QzXPSNcZWRKygwHLLcWzVvW36XnOUaYKs6gFxxJ19Vv5_09bbqTLNL6HPgmH4TZFkCHXUBfRFVmvnxpsEvPPoUNyKBGzdyzZPkKUQq01JXnQ9_67n7o4jxVAHqqSZL8C7tKdI1Wo-HU95De1UscLaolyP8jt_KY7EvFnaImHiHN0k_kpzsAIYgQgQBPeZMyDY6ZRjE1hkSnKVTTMjCjaNxQxXXnqufjxaqcNeeuYtjE70AZIP4-BV0ClI59fFV-IK9bRDf2ZSvEc_dZTQmoppasopJsEeiu9_0NPvok5QXNx33pGE0qcxMCEPbVWA05HZQYE6tg5RZ2ljkx2j1xhqFPq7ENH6Zq-7eOSOyhl2g7reN-ue0pxNTuZTcMAP3B=w715-h953-no)

Boring each hole to the required diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M00w2hs-3KzuxG3DPbQTt23z0hbKwrCqamM_NjmnEJB8ConM9Cdct7HFTQYkraT_xdayZyeV3mm93OV9wEzJW2yamDElw_FscPo3G7PlqmwWXz-EhBEf4r9Q1K3Js0DemdkYoOVy9ZCMNQMVyDwZB9PWAbOfxYo8cyOAzWrOVF0CxVGwK1joQlOKzU90tIKDljby_-J7lNaRVfXCtbVmFilrZNqK2N8q7sgzD1zNcpgAWptlZUFR3ycK1JJWgkf5Gox2yW_oJaTINCpRpU7AqKaI5UqTbKpg0ozL5pgKBrrc3YEfvQ0UBxpdU_-hvqbc0ocxICotxJiT784nJpwfOSFPySzYQgfhbkWLQnXvFlfLmNRD2_HyjE8ATQPzs4oSL-GRGpk80yyja2h479HRDlqO-DARtateFhkQKfdqd8qWllmh1_hfW4WWtgl5dUndzUi_wd1Bq5KF4dyJeciUvT83Jfg7b50X1xACZpUReY5LXGSU0tDAiURjtVuZn2g5jzBKdVah0Bc2a9GUSFM0OHPlHnRrIusi3Z-2pmEHmnsFw2ve6jQPByxXQbc-yscRTtzOyuKPgy7qTn9RkTfW500h5rvonMiRdBgPPTDEik-i2G3WGJagcCEv9FFAiPHf5ESGUq_7xLCtv9muaAb_ewa2P-2ioCOfinknweK9oXomsYoiMLzIfnoA=w715-h953-no)

And the 3 large holes all completed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NPwMzCHOTNd2zh4oTYPADB-YAhZawVs3upu66vF_7EVoZamcLbMMy6Xzuvd-aX2t4XNb1hijFI4FX9MvNsc_dl2JteVLf5-ZGtiCaGoG2NDa6Mfvr0amP922JLx0ZYA7Fzay2gGU4CCohXgID0Ux1HfdYP2VfiHEaDRNhgFXvv04DXXZaSjUIIqVmfZQ09U75YuJnFKT8YxPi6CkjPWTlqoWRtHo7o8rE4Pi9nw0JiHVGE_GHMcM9--nMt3lpGEpVY73h6pvtTxywv0YcPK7ZA3lyvVWGjMQrdtFR4F2jw9C7fnlQpD_0lmKqJAImea4MyT2IGl0si6wX5ObS8I3hqJVEnjD2A0tLrhOB7CtxRfFczGKAwwL_ijp_7s-EkAEwIJMMMNM1HoN6PQ0Zyn7iTuIavB6722RLKaLHDv8z0BiHQwTAE6hC72C_XHCkQjAefFZv7FmV8QoO3Gh3nPEhL-TOKiZZnCoeFsy1AwogisQvDvq38FYW-JuXnwqq4Ul0GCPqgGRA_sdaAndFSRPXNeIbL52Mz6g_ezGRflNODsAtgFJ6cbETqrneC3Jvs0J6TfC-e1rdlLaTof1OVoH48dF1WIXJtFU7SRBM5m2ba344MtkJ4VTQ2t-khvkNYaz9MNYMcOvSymNdf4Vbd1YNFV0ZiXtOP-UHkn_lpfTRX3u7PhqkZSyV5uj=w715-h953-no)

Completing the air passages on the cylinder side of the column.  No issues as these holes were only .40 deep.  All the passages appear to have intersected as required.  Thank goodness for small miracles!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RcAWJXjKCg3w_8s2an-_cdzDbRzq5QQzpju8YzDAKDZqdMvM_lmksKL4pBBNeKCVfE1yPAxiaJVJCRkfXEOT07ZjpYVas6bS4yqU8aiKKtM0SVZRGvGzVYNgsTxTlImd0D7pk-DwMFwfEBxnUffH1jWk538ePjTtaJc-GiIQP4GJAjgZ3CaK9ZrmIhgzo0C2FmJHMvR8fU-Be-VGx3TdYAK45N4EftaQ5U6ayxv98xOnuhYASDrvToJmy7TGvOVX2FNt3cCHiDKZFwEmK7O-N21fLx1O202UB2zr8SbRvA-Edt7radC5OX_gWBhQdiCejabILC2i5TvoZF4oKL2fBc6KZstJGnEJz_f5hGLV5HeNKMJlEGfXF0yexfyqcFOYeE3FvW9nLmRe-HGt3JbYSnopSA2Ds8qeByfUi8JaXGIP3MRUGjAR196llvtkOsAxQ_dlgbkpZ-_D7QYDtEnuFSOKeRW52WgflGDiP5M_OuRopXYDVQOedv1jkJaLzdvV_oFSs1Y1WxlHTIIpu2RZLLe-nfQdiagRrWlCQfeBezA6RoilUlL5ygv3chL9be4BdOLAdzAXNhAm_WEExOVBPtw8I_jQ2nRe7fbGPZVsTdJoWt_OqEU3wQuu9OFU5JVeUOWdUhhz4-duS-jQOV3aEVYn38ozwvPI8dtR6OSzlgPmyJ_3YJvqRUtL=w715-h953-no)

Completed column viewing the reversing valve side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V58u5FMijMEdaWxIMmftFts7HfZQJLuTMPlqwBsxiCeU-uQtRl111NvKxvW5vRStiICax9bOoifJ9CIKq1KroNE9_898mpQMjYYjm8LVQx89-l4pUn1yVFrWwUUkJngzsSlwgnqJSLvnqtYX6ScAsPsEZZqAYDF5WuTx4inlFT3h7vgCogGmJnUCIeNnfCZgePtaexOScA8p5F8-EdOI0pLLHtxIypyJvQo9ugeZfjb8VJ5oXkQ6AV6TAuAtsfmyrSdqzSItWDbJ8Te9vQnxWx89VwlbxHZ4qnPNQca_L2sScC3_nNcISV1aojC1Bh-ZDu1wyjNx9hJuMfpYDSmnC7nPUH_PlGDiwGZkq5kNMpkGAWOmVZQtYHHiqmg2OTj7V0ymIarjWreLDKqFgU0evMWS81KDdNXQKhU8FcaUFTxIZQCBWRerNin4RXlG0ggYgRAzChG8cf9IX9ddWuWvOCugvuF64Bj57rMekerD6otjIW4eDv0OYZK8dmfDmoOA9e1bhMNMhIDW005X769k8_CW6bW51SDjEYx4cOfZseVZSHCVLaJ6vBTgzz1eCvu6A3aFl3m5zCp7f6XFje133ocSPQvSDeixWy8muuCFP-sNt_iaA7jdQ8DYAyYv9qiKa-v_4HlKYld2Nfecw64SHK3MZLn8cbNuz3tmF1UXkhRXmB3OwyKxULao=w715-h953-no)

Completed column from the cylinder side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uRBLCWhMYOuY6dJVdHel4WxJW9dTL-xWiW9FQ2JpXXlRoMPAnfn-euYxMy-zFa4osn2NP9etkV8FoATQuDeevgvkYYjNBfzxOu09E8iK6TT2SBNMTO7EWqJezqeeOeq8-Nmbu1a92c7qPh4QmQzYekeHIqcZ-5p8R9Z_WLpb10EUIjLQT6AUYp0KFNO72U-GY436FOqG8XMZDDtCX_jlWcNaVhU3WNBYfDMSucwuNSTnThIzzQi7i2Joe6Pz2w2m93vTjvj3BaA7wAvDlm4Li4XWgn-fjgbpr5SOCwVDdsmFH3RhlCLo_pPH6eFx8FH25lzkdZTpY4vhirT_WbSW-DaiianyeOonJgi1gkhBqMb5W8YJsVGpKBZlUvdaNxze_X1LMpPm-3HwNL-l4a42np2TXCpZMil48oE1zWB6YDsw8yZcV8WnTeV-Nha9dKD03yRty1WWKbDZQsMHzZurZfJgjrHgWsKSupzYDqHUwr2cHvIhxWEt7umHKLqfiAvhd2REvDdPIgmHlvhIA3SFZzc7clw-083-B7P9FSJE32r0cz6PcvKPgg71BdZXK26cmx0u_slR5c5pN6-b2315FZ2GzAixp8cyVDTGRAZp0iI9ZtXmGqk1k_4j5Tu83uyyWSFlU1DyQHaxTODJSIazUtLz876dg2xWfYlXUcNQAvDeUDZVpoUvUV3L=w1244-h933-no)

I still have to make a shallow counterbore on the cylinder side.  That's the feature that retains the pivot shaft bearing housing.  What's the wisom on the best way to do that.  A boring head in the mill doesn't really work since there's no way to step-over while it's running.   There's too much offset to put it in a 4 jaw even with my 8" 4J with the jaws reversed.  So, I was thinking about using either a faceplate and bolting it up and turning it realllyyyy slowly or maybe better than that, put it on a rotary table and with a small end mill properly positioned simply take a 360 degree pass at the required depth.  The feature has to be .094 deep and 1.00" ID centered at the .750 hole.

So what's the wisdom on this operation?  Thanks in advance for any feedback!

When I'm completely finished with the column, I'll lap each side on some 400 grit paper on a flat surface to make sure it's as smooth as possible. 

FYI.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 07, 2018, 12:58:09 AM
I didn't have a lot of time in the shop today but I did manage to complete one more part, the pivot shaft bearing housing.  This is  a fairly simple part but it needs to be concentric so that the bushing and pivot shaft all run true and perpendicular with the column.

First op was to take a piece of 1" OD AL bar stock and reduce it to .75" over just a bit more than 2" of length.  Then face it to the exact length called out on the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OncdpcAX_-f4mWAPMQhHqkgYCkNyou4t8pgpafyHWXCttrlVK74mvvotqKK3FDuPi3pbXMWjyWMzIPrhLyD_Dj-xqGdra3EyMnMklkTC6mZ8bl3WxZM7ai9Oay6jFB1gbAIXuc6cMZuYDu_YDHx2GLPVRVSSRjfDa7fK0ACFep2Cv_uwlxOyjoEHXO8PHhbSAXon6CNYMx3OwvSeEpSK2PA7D--ic_0GBrBd33Lkg8KOqxaH7jmaiuVdXe_FNdRyrjBroEGEX9TSpbTl7owzZkMD-cjniCDVCKD9dTCGy53Mqz-3veWP6Iy72_Bx-CK4Q9APsqwo-qhPx8LuxYkOrIBvObgrG52vosXScnXp-2aELDYEGtXhBcsZNvKNRHn6Y0NltV8-O0cdK5GKoTGGwLd8RdFXTg6PeW-JhotAuAG6jUIsMF65s6FOlss37VypDdmp6fy2S6jfj9-5BEmBwkhYzU2V2WvImx-AP9nriHxKo6UjTJSRHAUIcWoYL7jnmkvPxfSZmUFL1A-9dJA5V8haUoNJaLWK-UI5AxJhjirj6ocAeGPVzFLy32h84nhDxOrXJjCF4j1cUtTdG-OUHPloSXcnUNsyx0N99-4TEec-r_1Z1MCcPQbQMs5hTKB_8TAs4l34kv511PvWQnZC40-9qkxJjMtHlXZIQ6R7V0Xw8TUt8qZ5JEg=w711-h947-no)

Then I threaded the first 3/8" of the housing 3/4-16.  This isn't exactly scaled up from what Elmer V spec'd but I happened to have a 3/4-16 die and tap on hand, so that's what I used.  This could have been single-pointed just as well, but since I had the die, I figured, why not?  I used the lathe tailstock just to press the die stock and die square with the work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d8macwiNDAIcEdlCHhKvDx2DbIByCR4aDaxfJkgL7U7k6knGdzfhGgDurEglYuOSVoR1vnPecUiv4NnJQBUs1jIDMW_U6BkcW6YIzGyoyB1RMia5cbjtgx4F4Go28C3zM2G0O0jCB11DbzIZnCwkQAf8NcoHarK6wIytzahMdyec_lP_VE3aJtjuJBQaTqfvu5oj7sRXfYC-MXwz6uahhWn6O8NjCZWFgjiklvoCyhq1srmLHsSI3oZ-Rbgwny2B0QlU7gTjTcdPEedGGkcwj_VhqmxkW1LTzCqAEpMvqgDVcBwmOa8aqxTnBlAVCJIsEK8riqHK7abQlLuqFgH7s8rCslc5S7jVGgzLggPDsKPoALw6KmYVzM8SlAwfwolUs7dk8NR5cHC3oVgc8CNUuVy54w7kR1e6SeKAKJgoXY7k2aKtxoaUeF9TDD0Zchf9mOKCo3si-iyYzWprvo7jWCnmISWUx0mCLo81qx76TJNitEPEiFp0etIyXCKe4x3Kd2O2EeCYGS_mOWRpPW0WRWZt0Mk6MM_rX9Qqg5fJkBlQmPaZY2t9qOxf2LVX6Azecu0qfuPp7zRj-vSD3BEnj4aX55rNlBO88jkF_HNDe2X3Cd0dLBNr3YqSXh-qBCLWQgYbVZ_EMHDqe60urMpri_X9CunImIAk_paU-zLCyNWw2in33b18IGMq=w711-h947-no)

I parted the work off a bit long and then removed the 1" collet and installed a 3/4" collet and installed the workpiece from the other side.  This pix shows facing the 1" OD to .094 thickness as called for on the drawing. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aNU5EeNzuC-NqAwr2jz3VG4mJU4qhxojSCzXoEQEsoBN-kw5GXZDMCP2edw0ERtKkkMNeJHYVc0Wh9SXjE2yMsTZVKtGC2UzSyzKWDV8W5Qa0LaTTwPy3MDrYIs3SVuXcx0H7dDNhEcCNzmJlzd1vYZCqAz-XZ-5_gcQSmQknQxUSD5zJF_dbmLf2wWzoPUJojYvcJYHVkvMjLeJDbilrxbNzOBJmWnCY2rJNzWmPgYYELc3WaHC5jr-QyaqeKOqwk9EAg8BAU8ceVWq3aeRXXlp9kZ8zyR30IY4h81FtfnndZzL0cfIqai6CFBD5iq3CBUQibPapLAuGJddLQqgfpzR7iEBQADy1oaWj6IqzLAwJAEdwbnC415OxjYBxxJ2lvy-G0vVQgp3JVX9na8G2Dn0HCGVWjBmHgADFopSTue9i51QsM21v84k2iVYh9FPmYRgvb6kEqHMmVhPg-5U4hhBCcelthcNY_ep5vO2Om0RGhTt4hF7YP-rI2F9zRUUcCyel2q_tn1sm3IX1kmFf5RMO_w88I-EkoADDmU-GJdqtCuGqLMaPpGam0nGw9ShX5xuyigHwq-cij8xFfFfZjnybScnTqsI_ir94OlvzHBlVKvjBmpe-nx0-IVcttZaa2P0S_KUS1APQuRQMYFUWgX1S5SGCxdNCzdJeDoiaa-2xWpTYOL-wn-c=w711-h947-no)

Then I centered drilled the workpiece, drilled a 1/4" pilot and then drilled thru with a 17/32" drill.  I didn't take a pix of the next operation, but I used a small boring bar and took the ID to .563.  I did it this way so as to have the bore straight and concentric.  This piece will take bronze bushing that I'll make to fit once I receive the SAE 660 bar stock.  Drilling was done at 260 rpm and the boring was done at 430 rpm. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Fd7a3OGU-LqDYLiQLA1heTgFbDgraoJ-UzeOiUZlRTG-9tzdye3xiZqF0Eaok5xyaMQt46IuNkF_nIfFEKvPxY9pV2_dJwBGiBYCqmbyevB-OPixqMWlbcNjD9hrcTeWM-xsJ5ua7mwCCoatQSdKwTMFMdsD8Rcg44TKJdowWVQ8Q-16wror9RrN-u6j3xNvQIHINXa-lOay66PDPy0SqMgnAu480PHzhSt6KevnKc0LG-V5OvLl0MlyXtr2BdrePPcOyPUFXMhIXZM54k7KneZD4ONb9GJmObPzGZUanhbwvn3rsx_vcGIG34zVNb6bknSOdE8io68njiW4d8nL_TIwRZtyH6Dw8DryHSItwQ8H1Yi2FsQZM5JphEWKfngrSRIu7n6qVdLZX1JVZqEgtsR-REga2d7jX2ODvJ2rCZAsRTgl7TQPtAP31o_F89afwB2XlGVMxkV1DfuVA7yUMD9QcXUDDsbdwxwFwVehz6kNXZ2gaLJAguLDmqw7nNRj6LTCCW_JlI9g97Oy8vjIAelHFhmmOThjgqhhtIOc6wLUVHQyjiZhNEPHQx5hQVHAedKXCvfznO0uYBdHQ4h8R2cyXUXqH3xouVbVQM9_KDdEiafdeg10Mqi1aRFffByWH2qaQ_K1oKxXIjAnA2vDRYNBuZGg39rEMBekZAd264V58tyOhOTFuaA=w711-h947-no)

Pix of the finished part laying on top of the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7ICqCGDlufXYYwyV8hvOlXlfjLIOoAVkkq1TfQsfvbHmufNqgh3A09RB2WP7iYcZDTLnqwgqIqoYLEulSDHgLw8ObKR1h-99-ZAyMW5iUEKE3CF14ArAi8iJ2aZOEigykRwhzwCEeKcapVyybA0cJbRLgYNDl15t3c6g0BpONNZEYUuqyeaIUHI9s20DE6LPCY4BTFLTEocnxfHDAVAsJVnW-xRac0I9xOnSx6Gzk_PvFktUuVi8boN1gJN2jn5O_TmmyjJ8PUD3QDVSvduSFSRZKFAXXqKZeHkXTb5bZWkXC9-3X95MuhAKo2WcFsAo2TFjdN8Fp4oHOQmBgRNSrOG5WcTIT7aIcypJQG7gOHx74p6DDT6xpzbnx5n9ijYUZXfLkrnDSsILWSioT1MrKAoJmghlPpVzuSWNSGJabaqWH9qEgjXAZhpNsPKnZNfDU21XvG5ZC_9XYWY_IzMpa3t7rKYcEACwIPpjbHuE2Akw6S-UG6e6RqZ5Ybulurp4zD1nxsW3rkaqtbSBzqKGdYt1SyDd0IprPQeqDDcmqVgr3A19BXC1NRhn1WEXUSwLmSknow5jQyqTEVw7Ks5Clw50X5Y9WTjAJ2ocTKMTFzl0mQHfF2PbV5Nvqj8F4uNi1vOczeTAen7Nxx8GgPB6Aex1A2R_i-MZQIAp19Mi1zlAZFALVwdvNuaz=w711-h947-no)

Finished part installed in the column showing how it will look when assembling.  I still have to do the counterbore on the column to accept the .094 thin flange on this part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PJVbCmBdusu6Y8JUygkhNMHxhPjCWlPdpjhOeY1T2XoEw70-YERf0dXGwM1gi3b0H1OX1ZTSqfemlFtPmM0Be8x-9DBdvePn4afRq4t5S_6X4LgapOUYOJ_LjvUPLEPsqh9l15TksCpZyWPn6HeDa3NTXvhZJjl-mF6BXUqTUf-Rj7hA3ddRRXUBRACZF7m5_IqUY06d96FJhK78u6Ah2wdDkfmYjn8ZZikQQ1vihCAOJ7tqdgLh_T1vkI6VhaXBodR2N6B60rSpiosXD5Z-YefMU6SmabQQ2rwUNFwkKt8Sjov2k2tUPdL5r-hzTez2pfVVwUzeE6YYn_3bxEoq677G9aTkDz-ranV_wpZOuYK7SvdLsKySueP9AqraE0YRcNb9_e1dpDWq4EyGfhBrvKz32UIyNrk9U5lfwzNdZlRZqgdko9p0Gb7njbmKlPHku1ixrsiTMOZbIHY7kGtWPvf74JhHSYOPtk3XAWf_Gqi6Rj1ITdKxi3so4PoecVcJan3Inf4TRDbwQsMYt_HhIZNMGnuo7cicUD34KJGpUUvxFBtgl5sHhaj7U8_8iOyPbQSdGvcj4xOMDzLou4ZlLMmW9R2AoqKBfnnPny0fPz2tX0L6QcdoAUgvnkP0OxFoIRdLAdHOHRUJKWTNZgPKrtifbFJrvcFUDL-EpO3E9v306MLwSpWLEsxv=w711-h947-no)

Another small miracle and these 2 items fit together properly!

I'll continue to work on various parts that I have the material on hand for.  The rest of the stock I ordered is supposed to get here on Monday so I'll start to work on getting this engine completed in earnest next week!

All for now.  Enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 07, 2018, 01:40:27 AM
Wow, have to check in often at this rate of progress. The engine is looking great though Mike.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 07, 2018, 01:49:22 AM
Great finishes! I can't say I've managed that.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 08, 2018, 02:53:03 AM
I didn't have as much time in the shop as I hoped for today, but did complete a couple of more small pieces. 

First up, the crank collar.  i didn't show the turning ops on the lathe, but this was just a piece of 1" OD AL polished up a bit then drilled 31/64" and reamed to .501", parted off and trimmed to .375" width.  Then this pix shows the piece on the mill.  I zero'd up the DRO, went to the center and drilled with a #21.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i6qUaioC7BmyZy5cgkBBHnEjlkj4R5vSZUn8i7ai2NT2EhAIYRJJRolHVh9qUW7pTlVZhFDW6aDlpX386urhgsZBEH588ZhpFDuVaGVlfesLDPMipAyhpsV8iDYUU38poDC9PMdEDDNhlAK9V-2EAsVV2XD91Pq2csTGG0dLLboXMs5Ln2EDtMbFrVicOjHVG8dn-bPrrYF8NB6mBNHPtE8S_g0NqLMpq0Pt8NyAkemebRGcnMBadPVnuZlX_Tg64yNSwZjtLspY3rB75nUhA4dJVRSIl6XK-d2tPfVo_R8CPaJKUEhOjK0KadVDR6He55iu_gq8A0ZBukPl-7eBc0NzdRui3ZinFop6rWID6CRX0LONK3VMws3A7q2QNYDioS8hbaMuNLOJtAC25Xv-_JQSOWKt_UdkR6U0q43GJyYNA6yEo9IfS1wl5jbw1t-H-uTC5Yb2F2jbabMYoeptuOXjL8MInK09RZkpgMdgPSmDGYYMr-h4TK4zg-tGXytn504UTwZjNROahqOk6rWjNmSEBBmBoDVmXxM35Tt2MbTHwiFwtNpSayOKgQTetFbx6umzzIgOKfbCRBsyU3UnJkPvyu0hD1mSsJpWuz40X4ePMs_4ZDLYIEOXQB9PxsqhTJtELLG11aITiLOJDhiibMdYM3DrB_1--UzAR-fCFA9T9Xh5rBc9zuxk=w711-h947-no)

Then lightly countersunk the hole so as to not leave a burr when threading (also seems to make the tapping go a lot easier).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QvRHPPp2fHQ_GnftX_FbHlA0Xnud_YLm2BA35vDkMavK-abRclEG3N8YdFEMXmkh_p7BX4g1lqTxkHHZZXQxCiyG-u3sY9L7KFuMZ2lNwWbxSQ2ewPE0oiG0a1aoMxtBPZbsUcWbmTnt_BzRjXKnG3y6gHpHwMUdUv95SgtuB_hVT6DnmhyYZVE3-fDStaGp2MUmvTeLvsZw8V4aWATWWDbEeGVXOG-2V49HQRYg0x7uE5RyE76mLt8kuMCMES9VsLJq2gB6gATskN2A5-OXtn9x9xZgxFIzVD2h_Gk6VfmhqGr_3pzPYdTCEuiMkDYO4VRA4PzEovW58ODOZhD5XkQIfFszg6wdD7-d2CURQjkp8imCeOb3CtnRL6m50gGHp4efjwpfs5yZE6MWNJOXeS98kPClRqZ6WU3oPvlNeLGQHs-HVbqhoEa1lmDkooZwghKyWF1AkFfWGezDQFMkro9YtEfTH8aZ6HflvcTWhlIUQmBBzpU2DNPIAD_SIQf_KfU5I50Kxsz_um6cuOq0Leloh7ctq7cJ5Zk_4fL9rfe6zZHknzgJsPCV1QEfjBkAx15BS8wpXa80D9Afr2dAZCjTClqTgTfUn8PSkom-DHg4HQGHWK6B1AR2hFlzHbmDP_Y5w41iWmxLLxrzpE6Hav6fFMsyL6orZXVbNbYenEWtcaNzXvCpBCqS=w711-h947-no)

Then power tapped 10-32 thru the piece.  I used a spiral point tap and it worked well.  80 rpm on the mill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L8cy3ztMdSPfd1PMAfGpQx_YSJBGDkWHBU_ISjoQlWF2kaRj4o0YjxURdnEze1Amy3UIRl-JgAvmgs1U39NLpTDpMBDRNEgNRYCwoLcq-Q4HWuaI_yiFYIvv7LLrEiep_z1CTnacnGTvyjCuBTKSIQyOGV1wnZCXK3xNW7ns53ivhE7ttZXoX4klk_2UHHvH7p0r3GYgMm6LrwcbL1DVQTbjSQxiONac_FBZwtGxUnw5tCH--tP5ps5bS-2e7MZcfYz6Ml203WsH_RWf866E6hQYwPQDX_mq4zg6hON2W61WIf1u4gLNugPQ7psoIQTbC5FCPc7h5pWefZzF5rMEpkOycZ9--1ce-IOn7FGQYeeiiFqNhLo8Y3EhOEztiwyfVjacc4gZZAkF0khA8OO4Su3CajfSSJfbWUtc4atgXI49HSunriV9OCbIpRLXmGQ6FXQet8wClnk0C8320prBtquJilNLp-8uFJXURUcUvPmj-e2P5xF9iWbXx-lat6Abx44b8W8-xIabX35F94YxsRepXwG6e_Z0GJVmtkDNWXmN5QybuGJ7YWXGlbQx2XcKvJ-AaqOsPn0JPwEwo3jTdxBtb0ZwICGy5X0xPbb80qeUQsrOx2AmloQgiVd6jiSUysqY4tbtWc8w7qihTQO0WtFx6r38W4gJwkc8TBLDDLPPEdMnOD51w0hN=w711-h947-no)

Finished part shown fitted on the crankshaft with a 10-32 brass setscrew installed.  Fits well!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iFQd4q9RF2n4Ap8g1Dc7PPuqnWkZKdHvj-jXsqGrpCb-EuVOk5EpFO1M3BO-nYY1ewSK3StzUI1sL682K5vimpS79vfbs9ida7wxQVruVHLFm_6EfylewjlNAjg1Eu-wtf0Ln9tG0eG8H4B33MWZOuB-hFOwX3lu3WMyE3ucLBuBzt0xurYNSynn_zvhWVH1hSxBiis9j4Jaq1EsoNDpFz4RWIgv1GIJufrl_lI2a1F4BJbbuJ88g_aoDb30UsYP27ph8WCsHvRkl3P4xwLdPqW33qhUHOA2ltK-kkyCAszSwfs0CMHEB-U2QNgxZRQWA1utoRusT7dLWtToEqMOa41_sLb8fM1Om45er1iE8dqjEorKABm5vf4ZkIjQuP4c49N_kScb6LdABLEUbkcpaxgRVjVO_FNBlzKEKuePIuVdUxl45yHcEFm_rMEptMLnUVRlUUwsdj3ZBWwINb8JCxNqBO378c7rSAPAtKJu6_m7qsIuv4h58KvcvPWI4BIvN6Oj4nWcJVYRuMRBQBL190eygGeh1YnFLFFhj5JHI3igPlipU6XR-cdj6rO7C_VainGLbN1bLSZ38B-e4Obq9TOi_ky5Fz1yv7tgVu6VyXNLjrib6ON8l7MVeGn-Up2yifd2kSyXsazKdTxh3Uelc_0VvNLWYmpyi4ZWMXopBmwpgIeOpdQdJ_Nb=w711-h947-no)

Next part up was the pivot nut.  I made it out of brass since I had some and I thought it would look good on the finished engine.  This was pretty simple turning a piece of brass to the spec'd OD and boring the inside to .50, drilingl thru with an "I" drill and tapping 5/16-24.  This pix shows the tapping.  I did it under power at about 90 rpm, as slow as my lathe can go.  I left the tailstock loose and just pushed against it in and then gently pulled back on the tailstock when I reversed the spindle on the lathe.  Worked well!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yE5-9W1UAz-tC-vdsvaJ9yDsc2YxC4DNkrJCu1_odvQIS-oGIimjOxNGIgoSSN8b1qsZuv2b7945Aty2XYe9lsT3h8zQ9N8yVbjFm_tHbIA3wufwyxZUM4v6CXbcBzPfZiATXIeF1dUwRxvv1J6CJt359UTp1pjqctuYl5S8_mbZKcPS4joEJ9ETIDRZQco34EUlU_I18M7yqu66PuF6cLYfI6_SMNTgdV65LScOGrO-FwBruJGKiOQYplH12rEyfXMgupbR-zNNiSfS3jbSD_5BbLWVKob5pMYDYVLJ6y-Rg0wJzUpwpFcsCdOqgzzUWcQou8Rw6v-4C0kU8pDumy-NL5aP8_oyR1-6kC_8m1Y_bwvlS5DmBR7Iuyv4NzxxMvg1tgmOfpAKl1rtKwpQjfKs6D_a67DjdHC0kFDf-GnxfaS8PCQ6wW96cCY6723zyD6XbCSkYf5KsXJueXxocnUyDy9d6_yhS_3y_-qsLP5sjFqBmKYYONpko1q6XacmXNsJHWx8BeCmlVKHNy5VGSRIlwszE20qN2KCL5LHjG8IxjyYyzk2HBYmKzbbUuV5EfQg1e7CbPPln01VB0S6AaHQxuTfQQNgH4vUVJAK5Lz_zghn43CFQaUMLE_4aGRdyGRUgNAfFKcoFiCjpAnv1oaMTNIEuorQwNSJhXsUr-M8yaj453Ws9WNs=w1244-h933-no)

Finished item on the drawing. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sFKNGA2FmS8uUtPMDBLNtPl6GX7lkqegPxV3J1750WN8etbmpBrCvTnSS1TN3U8nEwW6HMqkXjKkJNOLvxKLnxRtf79JmDYUBqWVjHmm5x4tiBm9acP2JpoRfHNZSfcD_m_UPEdEU-krv0LSEk061wKMtzGQwIwkMvV8Zk0EkNz0PXyxoA5Bfhl9p_cKuoyW7gBFiqCxM80w1zpLGvHIc6fDntHKBZ85opyjbL1LV-nvpaq5ncnuzksLtIzvWgdDLKehvYnT37WFtti16AZjHeDHVJoqIEuXPjKPR8hW1r0DvZxt7EuuBch6WmbsZxSpTUD9XryLZ3v65wsEovCmnGBrp5KDjWYtx-7ylZam8SmlW30xzqvh8T0rvdazeyeMvtkyo2_lfpvr6MknYrf285VMqmEWUdEGbQGAmDMm9ABiIbGgOVvu38cLkBMK2jS_34i_9K1OYyk4spfR3Qulx-EIuGglF5V7p4edfTkW-68894UgidaCTF0ECR-wQnMn7AeoAPHJXqjvsbmjmF29xMCegGQJcH2g9cgSvK79CF5zN-ig4YvMd4VR-TjFAiVZtQxnDuSlNNQDTdALchJZUrlewzytFTxyVU2knPwyMsm3VkKjtsO0MHfKRAj_PRxv9Cr3yGg9--5dmKQKnnX3XnyIgktd0AkduJACKhnwrY3rztGOnbpPbvsP=w1244-h933-no)

Another glamour shot near the isometric view on the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FzzQYWzwAa1YkUZpcevdk2tf3_Q84IHKMazHqvA4B5r0R3mlamFQGMJDAn2Gco8vZZByCMfjfVWS7-0nA-IH2UJW98jvcRbheW30-lT1BA6z0VDoK__QLgUdkb-xxTEmKTP57hrd_4i-vmvsDFH9vv2hVd5Byr_Qh3r3FkF9u16D5KTBMMTYFdCE59K4tbVIvcW2Z33r5__aqvdJ3pbJcQjMvpa0fmCtbtK3ydChE0OpplpdBbyGZhppS9aNJioEUUTzm0woi4ITeDiBQqXS0H2KVhXCuHfsD-POjHx8Wul3pXdPT-cryCUYu0TugYhbKlL3HYz9vQ03XJxIjJx_3A8kHpcFe71HYrhxbBrsaEhPgEOws3-hqrb1LFIEQC_NuMbt2MqExJWMJYpl6y0v8t1lgpvbUdmzggrSgMLNApr3zHTN8GsMmWeUjrpJF8o30SMqaqPE8_OyB3Bu4iIUtJFHsy-nKWQFJ6kiuxL1NF4Ygb9WNRL4g05f4_ic4vvL0mwslASXcEG7zH3pujeB4JtS6NrjS_dSIoVI1Pi6m29Frqxv7b44muWXcJwljgIgmZJm6yj0uuwYmsPZlU9I8hPnO4L3Nayaewah15pyLpTdlLiwst6BsGIPUOFcW3btMhKyoCC_XiRA-KTPrgtyAh7Nov2cCSyppX9H_vGzQe2Y23MoVu4v1Icz=w1244-h933-no)

And finally, the finished nut on the pivot shaft.  Another small miracle, it fits!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9uCKlF8He9IlXxNkahN9qWp5w8MQGgupAF0Xv_u1Vll_VSSyLxS4YFj5-0m4snWDXRT2FMcGVhrq8ERuS4F74RY-4Vuquf59nuLFilj8x6FSuILMM_34p0sCFhkBnLvIcHWYLlt7afABO52cvVjSAmLRxCtYw98_1aj4J9rJ9oXvjdWsvfEZf6hg77b5o5T2L3aEf22mKrLMCvENri-bA_VL-r6yQgdMibM_HGLm5LBadGtFNBdSWu27uXUfAeJ-wAqhslvuKNZ8Z5UxcgdoL0eHFX_mOIDsIOsS-uZDDNUWo805ekBkSgp1DQRqv-N4hRvPcqRRb7Zxju8dgRQWzUKfdk_7IaQhDQBqNmowBsbVnNiD5V3IQvHYdBqArq1XpevR6gFaQziDyo6M2fE2AK-NNPQE35md7SyQcyaflyhnFGPhFzLx4O0HWoAQT_EWR40Oto0BhVfssmwBVZakEXwq3a4Z3JuVsYFwkmZJKC2VdGiow-cVc9qykoZ8pIv4vvFtt_uaUn7uxv18jRVpspPbSIZuRY1iaPCUKozWfuPuaCs2WzEmJm6ps1EKf8ivUsHI8mGgAo5eHE_WIf00my7HevKoA6sNlr5TfCL4llDxSFIK2ERalVqE5FYGtsQ6TnGeZaU0zgl3KcxEQ1SvZi5mqVJ99u8zTw-sSgCtW0q56oA6H-PoYdue=w1244-h933-no)

All for today.  Tomorrow I hope to have a good amount of time in the shop.  I did get a partial shipment today of some of the material I had ordered, and one of the items I received was the SAE 660 bearing bronze.  So tomorrow I for sure want to make the qty 2 bushings I need and get them pressed into place and maybe a bit more!!  We'll see. 

FYI

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 08, 2018, 05:37:17 AM
Mike, the  parts look great!

I've never done any power tapping. I would be worried about not reversing and breaking chips, but it seems to have worked OK for you.  Guess the threading wasn't too deep on either of them.  And you are using a spiral point tap?  Maybe that makes a big difference?

And do you have a tapping head?  One that reverses when it hits bottom?  Or do you just do it by hand?  Seems like on the lathe you were reversing by hand?

Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 08, 2018, 01:28:44 PM
Kim, I power tap on the mill and lathe quite often, in fact I do it anytime that I think it's possible.  There are a couple of reasons that i power tap if possible.  First the setup is dead fast and simple, second there's no change of misalignment of the threads.  However I do follow a few guideline before I attempt it.  Many others have LOTS more experience and knowledge than I do, so please treat anything I say with a VERY large grain of salt!

Anyway, my general 'rules-of-thumb' for when to power tap.

- Only if the thread required is 10-32 or larger. 
- Only if it's a thru-hole.  Blind holes can be tricky and dangerous.
- I only use good quality taps, Brubaker brand that I get at a really good price from a local tooling supply store.  And make sure they are sharp!  Be willing to throw away worn out taps.  My father constantly purchased trays full of used taps and dies at farm sales.  I spent a LOT of time removing broken stuff from holes for him.  So sharp, high quality taps and dies are a must! 
- I only use HSS taps.  No carbon steel at all for me.
- I only use spiral point taps and/or rarely spiral flute taps.  This makes a huge difference.  In fact I'd say it's the key.
- I always try to countersink the hole after drilling and before tapping.  This eliminates the nasty burr at the top of the threads and it seems to greatly ease the tapping start.
- I'm careful to drill a the proper size hole.  75% threads for AL and brass and 50% for steel, iron, ss, etc.  LMS has a handy chart that I keep at hand.
- Lubrication is super critical.  I used to mostly use Tapmagic Aluminum and Tapmagic EP Extra (for steel).  Now days I just tend to use the Unist 2201EP from my MQL lubricator as I then use a LOT less fluid and it works as well or better.  But whatever you do, DON'T tap AL or steel dry!  Brass dry is ok though. 
- I power tap slowly, 80 rpm on my mill and 90 on the lathe.  I have no tapping heads, either reversing type or tension/compression.  Just apply light pressure with the quill handle or tailstock (loose, not locked down) and the tap will start itself.   When at depth, power off and reverse, gently pulling up on the quill lever or pulling back on the tailstock. 
- For tapping under 10-32, I use a Fisher spring loaded tap guide and a small tap wrench, either the smallest Starrett or one of the tiny ones from LMS.  Both work well, but I actually prefer the little LMS tap wrenches and they are very simple and cheap!

I hope the above is somewhat useful.  As I said, please take all the above with a grain of salt.  There are others with MUCH more experience and expertise than I have.  For instance there was a local guy selling out his home shop as his health was failing and he couldn't work out there any longer.   He was a retired toolmaker from Cessna and had done hobby work for 20 years or so, including building and incredible running/working model steam locomotive.  He had a Bridgeport on the auction.  I was talking to him a bit and asked him about tapping as I didn't see any Tapmatic type heads.  He said that he did all his tapping under power, but he never slowed his machine down!  I expressed disbelieve and he demo'd it.  He had 1/4" piece of 1018 cold rolled plate and drilled a few #18 holes in the plate at about 500 or 600 rpm.  He then put in a spiral point 10-32 tap and DIDN'T slow down the mill.  He tapped those 2 or 3 holes in record time.  He had reflexes like a cat and simply when the tap went to the depth he wanted, he flipped the spindle in reverse and viola, a perfect tapped hole!   He said that doing otherwise simply slowed him down too much.  I guess that's what 50 years of experience will do for you.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 08, 2018, 04:24:02 PM
Thanks for the detailed reply, Mike!

I don't have any spiral point taps.  I've started using roll-form taps for things and have had good luck with those, but never used them under power, though I know that's supposed to be one of the benefits - no chips!

I may have to try that sometime.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply in such detail.  This kind of info is very helpful for newbies like me!
Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 08, 2018, 05:27:49 PM
Still following along Mike. Nice progress and dgreat looking parts  :ThumbsUp:

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 09, 2018, 02:01:14 PM
I'm going to quickly document yesterday's work.  I'll be doing more today, hopefully, and wanted to get this done before I forgot exactly what I did! 

Part to be made is the bushing for pivot shaft / pivot shaft housing.  Elmer's original drawings just showed a reduced ID acting as a bearing.  I decided to use SAE 660 bronze and have a uniform ID on the housing.  So the first operation is to take the OD of the bushing to the ID of the housing just so it's possible to hand assemble.  I was turning the lathe pretty fast with a 5C collet to hold the work and a CCGT very sharp insert.  The material cuts very, very well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VQ5pg04TzS1LgIon6EX7KGb4E-d3aMBl6FlGLeOR9FjL8jyRLpbT_Sc0jud7BPCpYvedhZTEtuEZNG6_BLdskSxLeNws6X_Blv98cMuj1SotOAhGTl3DGhcugW2oZo5jf_ERuXm693fuEzPz6VP5XsO6MVEDpG6f6sMyk9oNskEyAXDxRBeEMOpVcpEdgVkLJCoSCZlr7s6xkI4rLEyj0FHMm3inxbcggwknJc-aLaiuMAazRNv30YtNoFi1QZK3sCe5dW-eK5mPfEv0YQB1d00hHQhFEbFbxZlFHF--3XJHFtnOC0zDgQzHgMCk6xHEv-fle9a5bYBsLqyeZNeCxmfbAXipgKe6MCylHhgs5yqIdj91GUVY2KXdA2oD3KZ7u5Dl0eXt9o5xke3PuiwKc0y36Zj7373ZIRCWGHtCLUiF8D_JEEjAhcaAQlKOqK3k53i-MzKm1JFc5gdxLJJsBTPDalIiP2yMC65tAd7cmn-m4S8X1b2OvF9vlk7BpoqhW1b6hKgzr1IrdEeiTm9TD8_FgNLMa4fzIMbwSFlTKgAM2AnkoVDXcorIIZECZgY49pd9gT60py-E4jA-3o2VP3f6_1UGXdXmaPIRbu9dLJi5IixNIxsSe7DBorPAVoTpCIQPj6IWhi_6QfQOYig5-sUnBkZjuUklzV7tWgUgqNejCx2-1ZUi6Bwe=w711-h947-no)


Then parting off to the required length.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T6LayQkd2VBF738eGHp5onzFE8vQImscWfSkrUIjHwdNEDruebVGJRUjwpuC1RRQoVu9XSFEBsMi1UAJSWE73r514kxMDneS1mkmA7o_i5_whEjerVeYKdnzhfvdSU8j7nLU_7gbBiptfiAFxcUU1xPMLcWbEVW6siirZds8ppH6HfmPRB6DXITK9MYQQ2gL8Vc4CjWqb1zV8N4CdxjwqNbfghOzPn0bGiCzcTwGeXdxr4Niqq7s0mCoj78WDgj2RjYGgNYXUd5EsUZU1TnjH4Vqom0sG6KCY3Sp8ve1gg-wD2prkkDDlgSiuZFecs70nolCKvIji4woj3UBCpkY6_55-UBETKv6qDntQAzLwTv2-YiBChcmeEPShqNUfo7j5F9NlZwzlWcD7T4fAhu_6U3OasmZvTrhKA4aMcS3YhquHIweckCf31U3sN0nAb9-8bt-wDOuwOkvJI1qXL_X99oGaXWGphogdMCwXYr0xA7EGevw2dgfaUIh-z32UZvXAaXVvx9433SPAoqPz3cUkqsbgeV8rrO0QGGAnOeZ0bbcncRPFdpSJlHTmjm1RCaH3TnzyxfVeEzpXi39Hgd8AYAWZsYMsEWEUl_KBPRrJVgSE-vRtESKrIuFQ9veJTgaTa9XvrmF5jrqonwehAK76_w_4vlVx3q-FW7PBSPRvrpYdlZYcO4VZxtL=w711-h947-no)

Then drilling the ID to 23/64" (1/64" under 3/8") and finally reaming to .376 (.001 over 3/8").  This pix shows the final op with the ,001 over reamer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zjjue61m_aZiOCSlavuH828g8Fgwf74X0I5kby-xrlM7Z-zqa24msFovAgiv7pzHWqYjSThDpvP09hB7geHTuMC-qxYhFlQHGbGJYgFzxeKFCnMYIOPpw9pOWBI2xYroP76b0317WQ96xsx_L_NyJ5eb7wcr5R2M1YIam9hl5ORWnV2-pUqIQNOQxdfzNWuEe3vbxtHB4NF4fT4nRXdvNeQ-7V9RbRhyWOCF5YXFL7flFmzh7kDjtmQqh7hoKyMl43ueHczEzaiou9CO0pDl2p1vzqxExgRiUa2bfdJ_xdyxrBAU7Qf6W6aew0REjRgfyEpbl41qd7V13elizkZb3C-aYsmo3GzcapPhb1dN3BBVtTIfvEKTcbOT4qvyhX1TLxEG0nqxYNkUrObgaWrEsxfNv64erUJuhG1RFt-kXAo5_3T0WN18aeaWOIt0nJZpD4sYPuD93Xifs4a4RBwJZO3Vf8el-P5Rg6ajfVlGsJvrAaTpSZ_IvPTzanOe1ydSt4asZb7LKrH8zt4fgBYBXIPdUvMmfoRP0MWW1xNRYN7rwcepMjRZ-jTh9o2sWhrTKbXzAJx7wsyNEfbuQRE3DO5EuEP0KeWYpNdIUv34OKkuHESeyZVaY7aqedYA6DghO25Lvp1_ihpi7jceXMW4trB8pRsVlNPemA7JDHZwYYnJ9f_Jtv0F6yLw=w711-h947-no)

A pix of the completed bushing and related parts laying on top of the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g4u2XDG-u1LWwj3D1CZgtSFNQYbnXsJPU_fes1cBupGxxHlBt6aDH1BjUtDv6uC2PHU1HEbsLrAFfc3xSolIo97SBFNRp0TfrgqcXADmQcDncbIl4LE4VcTbL1nuAIBax3U3xi7FkfcCgpWn2Skr10yZxXettEozmEbBkPVkdHDOOUO8aqKKcvRv5uz8Of_5N1fNYgcahLIz20GI3QZVKkr-h7r2ebvroCtS_O5rG0-2zk6htO1E7CPVq4nJeseCh210ajL9tOz4kvTa0jckKfZ9YGa2jxORsQFgwas2hGfV4nMcoR6InWwCZHwi5SKeggB5tBPIuzvqCeVT36yZGH6arbNCTlq4s3zd4hR9RUP6bva8_gNAuqIdN-Uofu2Y2LrGtNFORh8OlBaNb95SYlyOPw0aXrrCOTexosjt-Iwc081E9DWWEP2YQvwQLo8OvyLbfcQjZiJVG3RA-4TsHfUtcm1roJCBRMu4drHPFsxhhSCl5qzFyoyTJ6uu1bSeBFZjdhLumpuD9I4sRRKMSnytRi6L7X7Af3AvgJ5LJrxNCC-nvYSM4gkLIVVEC5mQ5-kFyLt5hjIZIyiOXBtx9HKcP5ACVXIcXmLAyNOxSyJV4pjXHNvjhKB_fF9gkpswiKj_pWXz5R5WASVEhev4ilsu9PIAUvCoCH-V07_ZMvNtHM097fI46hv-=w1263-h947-no)

Another pix showing how these 3 items go together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OHnz-NACtqBz9eOvYDaft2rJAIyErXQmjq_t_z_4bs4uxg1icd6fgAGTfs1XiuAXTS_QTqksKBwKSnr91EhLPaI9jcc2n3jsBm6PAQ8DtC_eXhCAL4vhS673GB1SCByM7usVSHbrCdWXMEKKaKoYP2uM_z3bXfhWesIuDhw3AMnG-w0Mkn-yvx05xY8uXKKObu4_Ak_jAyCVKJXm2z9KOO5pFwOtWRGsZihZtjgjK9UZN0cH9w8_3lbQeM8nikhCtzOiQgnQeCtzdL4tQqd0UtyTpkNd6iUT8-Cb6X-ShRab-FsSqSrhtGjpGZFzYi64A0eEToqmCgT3CViPp-_CEGzXfbcICoCYGIuGyoAJJdmIsBCsD37eaunXjjlr2FnfNOFFykFlqHHka-jyCWxMTI1ulTnjVst-8uUNFh-eOPsltn_gvpCvPj9QbNGkspVMUV7jFMOHImbH4Y4negQpsCS9anaFFleY7ZzNF31NZJp6ejatvXRFm6Wqyz8WMDAcAPu0ya3eOuCh5Raesfqt7WQxFI8uqCKNJKy7EVCmlV_BIEQ99bIAT6UTlNo4jTDxPsPQ4HzYDSmijnd57MqRsmqPDltKej2MePvvoqhb71M3tXVoZz3SYVshm62KVY64rmESmaHs1VryP-6hHvOYgi_OPsSfi1k5Tpne6VSuxondN_Hzskl8jrhx=w1263-h947-no)

Then after applying some Loctite 603 to the parts, I started assembling them by hand but had to finish in my bench vise.  I'm pretty sure this won't come apart!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D5DI4mMYoQG7qhZwmVV3BUdlYuR95qDPjC3xwh1vQwBvijc3wwYTXcwZGySuNiKYo88Kr2CYMhrZSzbHzsUdCkD6Lzarowp8iz_i6L9SAQK9ppPnwBLoXEFnCfWX1tAz3FG5lhOzfpfkrHG_buQkqKeJCwU-RofttXF5h8vHzXOfHMQkNaXF0-1xyDi6pTY8DR1M5fHX242pFPXE4z3TO1-Fn9B1oCLkRfK3c9ajFBmRF28qTqerxk-soC8RBzCRcher0RMoACfR1AlRxxJCe8hHAm8ADDSUrcttAHjDx1mhKHtkfuUVOshjm4BIbb60szIa0GVFSD1C0bS6amKfzstVPfWTVDYgMWELx1HZWkvMo1I3_GIPYAvCVEqo3APQmjaJ63sdTjESC1nOyt9T4Mb_9FPI8dk1-PVHzaq0bH1qHlDCkdP9qgeMg4VFRDWVawgQlCk4MtVDgbNwmmjK1bcO9J0L0ZdWOSL2rd8IlIKxfTHJdJFJiw2PnQqmVt4vvMBF04T29GZiW_aSttUXYEeVGDsRB4ejhs4IZ0bsBPkzYM4t0itc0OJOFG5BsDVzRlAXvUT32flJWLNFT5nGdM9sWMJDgpvmt9IzAW54PqqT3pJExLAbQogt4uUAybMFib3pLRAldQStdHdj_AXy4PLxbpC3w2vL1zz76AH9ixy1u6FJJxVBNFzf=w711-h947-no)

And finally, the bushing shown in place in the housing with the shaft in place and the pivot nut screwed onto the end of the pivot shaft.  Everything went together correctly, as far as i can tell at this point.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X7HsF9NbRZhwwUfxQhaCymWkaWJi374u8j1O28VRuIaPrRxvb4g22jvjJu-DIsZ7HsaEOlpTYZ4BjLL_87RhW3j7yL_OEZi6AYcYzam1CoTkI1IEQvGwGARKnTL0CFK_LrK5rkA6Mv-nB_vnYuW1JxgueV1_wY2r5rE0opdwg1we2EvwoiDGHVPw0HK1lMtZ9BQw43zvLXmArYDg4_KVx4ocQR6sgdnffimrkZomlxmTchX-cG8a1gZHVUo9v46u-RTfDAdAy6g0ClopMdmIoROxL0cr3pFJky74DuYs8evG5DLAmdPoRdZK2wAnXnc3VI08uT_VC0zYL1G5K8jL8ytM6vMtU28y3hFQVs5StgXISMbauCVoI4vSs652NvmiWW6OseWY4USycIGPE_4DGm08KIniIjKPDdjUSifJyWSLZMmPIDAIuX2flJXZi03X2-uRPfpILNU7b9WWrZXLVHEkjwQa9mlKQtXYURtcI8kr17iTEi-Xa49glcO6dE1Fyx8BN2dL9_738-anSurmQ_g8Ykym96rSoD49_hY3-wCz9VJ8w4ReiTn65vhgJI8lBcjzhrhT85wD49G-FQRmksVhUJs2011BP37F_Dm6bEgnFg3kXYrg6pvukZCwjHF6WhGLQbwP7uS8CvrahfToc1WffLbKR0n1Z0NpCRyMxfkzLiYxKMF2t2eY=w1263-h947-no)

So that turned out to be the only productive work on the engine yesterday.  I did manage to start on the crankshaft bushing housing, but I had a major faux pas.  I decided to use entirely the wrong sequence of operations to try to make that part and quickly discovered half way thru that i had no way to hold the work to complete the job.  It became painfully obvious as to what I SHOULD have done at that point.  I guess I'll need to start a 'Hall of Shame' for parts gone bad!

Also my brother showed up and needed a bunch of machine work done as he bought a used, large ZTR mower and it needed a number of items made/remade for it.  It was satisfying and useful work, but wasn't building this engine!

Hopefully I get some more progress done today and will post it.

FYI.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 09, 2018, 02:58:10 PM
Well made parts! Looking forward to seeing more.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 10, 2018, 12:46:54 AM
I had a pretty good day in the shop today.  I set out to make the crankshaft bushing housing and bushing and get them together.  That's only a couple of parts but the crankshaft bushing housing has some tricky bits! 

The maximum OD on the housing is 1.40" so this pix shows a piece of 1.5" OD AL stock being chucked up in the 4J and trued up.  A few months ago I built that dial indicator holder you see in the pix, based on other concepts I saw on the Internet.  I must say I really like it as it makes it extremely fast to indicate in either on the OD of the stock or on the end.  Plus it's always on center.  The DI's are AGD size 1 and the travel is .50".  Using those makes the assembly a bit smaller and easier to get close to the chuck. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jhT3tcCYeZlPBVdb7_wHy3_qa1YIERTeO_qUsCe76332g_gYHlgxswmF11DGkfWbkWgB_iJTAU7I86GEhLG9o1UYuIjMiyIT_nIdEDL2jqLUglRttchSpsVQw7F6Ubsh5Ah3erxMmNbkkyu-VNBqU0RWd3e7ex2A_f1dqs7qfuFR2fixTk5yHGt6fXHbSFhE2anvfJiUE4iTYMTPIQ79Tj31l8RYas-CbWepDrl70kpB4WcPg86wguM02cOrCMnyDeLUjVwhsPGY1STA0LSzHYFBKMK3Ptno04PGTrwvUnGSTJnoe4tJJBhmhSLBUA7Uf8I1DrlsDpvOP6WvOY3qiKH-bcAj8IaWc2yNr8owHWQxAm1mh4h6SIhPchUM9BSNWzz_B4XDu5_HxPip-vK9XHnqm1T_sW06_EDI9-JdbGoh4LbEh7R4S61ScP8VkVWst3awQzqtKfGXilmbJpMFGL--MjJi7K2-gYftSmHuTnYbKhwJX6aWwh70XmeB9i4wSthTiWk6rc99mjPwiaGnxINP8VLseIgJUglQGD18keVW00K75NJCFLGoCjIZbp-4a8HTSxyl0DrsljUGXJUOBVaNwQMOvqMmli2NOMSLr2mmjzCd-4UZX5Jp64mz9SPAHNaoVLjX64ryu6Zk_4aN6zUqW8EW5kCF_8phCGPief1JUf-Yp4CYXpHd=w711-h947-no)

In the 4J, I turned down the longer end to .875" and parted it off.  Then installed a 7/8" collet and started working on the other end.  My mistake yesterday was doing the short end first.  I ended up with not enough to chuck up on.  Shown in the pix is turning the short end to .875" OD and taking the center ring down to .25" thick and 1.40" OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PInbM0R4vhokRyy2-KLnSrSrfJjY8JzH6Fb1Dlpf0o8j1T_TYTwpHz-D6nk4Dr7bC33u5Pg0XXMgJ9S-zORX-CiXmZXwFuiIM4rgiISl5HQEACaczSwOY72kenHeGoc0tZRSzQlQESwYbI_A5XGrhTyUHczNEOSZeMGiXZJJRzOZWoEJ0TVI_wm-KWHCBagM6f3U40DRGbu4LOMpq9wP-xWq6pLtC3VPy097Ze294LxNHfLacCqMx-cZl5XqqIUUmqYzn0b1sQzF29cLb4Gw4-S_VJiti-kr9-srcxjw-P0LStnr1nEGO04ktEICWBQvWLCxS2beOQpLuxoemV8TerrnAyrWlbrFJgHq0NY5Y2tD9beJOiSdX9KrpzplDhgZ7W1QIjvLJV2t-wVemTGMwhDsYV1Y-lvj746YrvD97Sx5Mw5Nlgis0eYJy2umNaLGY2qOUA_KaijHMWeiVd2ESEoTCqKU9gGzjjout6dsZC2uNOFARQgP0r7vDajTaojU5E3hFw6jN_KwcMu3h06KUYb13ahw3Yp33zsZQroloAuRk8-vx6pYZ8LZqD1o_5AcbVT3wacBV9E3_hknv8UqbHMt5FrbCypnyXPfKk1cGWbSVejP7X7ZZFDTtG7NX3TgY16aUs5WXhqSFSjgUVifZg2T5kW_AqAqs3f4KhDMiSycfqDPEad9RUYZ=w711-h947-no)

Getting close to the final dimensions on the OD of the part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j1sT1UX-gQdpnV_pLPhCiJTur3OWhCKsm2cIk-PxIMggkK1eBL_trSqBi6KkJ1I1hnvdz4nsCCmsYDMsunmUEBW-2r61cJoYAd79Pweqxby_3_A7I1jdrVDg-cTwq9n-DO-da9-TxDLX3A5QbtHQoze74IhbPgNJaN9M9qCENIbu22DS4muq1JvpdMCm2Zae655LFI_r_ndDre6HBb9S_69G1DhOlk5zeGEYikNwFaagyjHwgVmVXn3zTyex7iKmkuswMCazhwmmvCqXlIFtIKObBI7LrbQXITyt0d8ubNc1t60kCNgFqD2aHZx-cnInXTr59AOcNjTUIzcP34rjthoHpdIMqIFsp-cZ_f08PU_cwMiH2LS91xBB9-ezkFyLyRB0log8VjsMqOTN-vut1MSi_C0n2YhOL4ML8WPVSPlq33jfhDGmbQ6sfFe9u2_Gsd1jyPicvUcRPOJx-C3ShlX0XEEVmdGA0Y-NxNE27RDkY5NkcxwTKo0ydHH5zE-Nq4jtOea_RQCtQ5Wv-hivsI9GD0_ZHoVzKx1_1fFprdodZONnACbwYKS6hddHNeVp0brbc_G_lKqADapYbm68eLTTTpVPl8UN8dKJJOu5LF7ky4mlIuA2oSlvrh9FI1ziNQZIaq1qQpC2VX0phV4GpnQEHf7INfKY39tHSDAfV4TJLrfcAzjoyM0i=w711-h947-no)

Then I center-drilled the part and drilled a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M2lTua5qOsh251SPLEGoA74PZ8JEk3rjECeBSBz8GSL84BMI-esEjjrWww6crBQH1ZJrMvq9InGWg9ZGyliXGpOIO3aq4DUXCAwvqU9RPHEf3HdB3dhUJkeQa9_tx500eQOIOb2KNfA_7W0MI-yjWwF6R6aGA4Maq14diGCi0q04PTedYkK2j71Ye6n7BnCbysiy71ogY8K741ohR2H4FTfRyU_mvn8F2PNpOS2zofTFRlg9IB75U33peGaj6zuyD5KMUIcBKtxXRAqwDBBfoSM4kKF7xot0at7xZe1yCuPS3zPYCXyLM0lWfFEb3E_xRGcY54L0u3ezs2HCd5FIsjdRQR7_ezXNHoj9YbDIEP9cQNP4D0x5JcCNpRDqEyz0wxXRYA70kC3_jxyrKLiJ51VjVCNL_qb9D87UkSLZpPxfPaCep8cgxlvYu00ZKAiljt9CU6oPd1PKK4kAfUEgLPD3iQs4d_UIWIyxbb9ynV0PxLy4GKv9WrG9-Sato2UOD4oMZN1ZjCezZItwyAQm9lsAw5GFn71x4-FvNV4IHahm6SP3VxMyOPr4CsXyuqCBpZnT6QqHakbYj6h3NSpaZOEMhxYJKuGYohAlgcI2yCYILLEY5kpsS6YknisYJB5mzbqDbdcBnrPlLkdts8in9GRRnHhw9RKBMK8z6LqXBBdOhk8J_Pt4muJ-=w711-h947-no)

Then enlarging the hole with a drill to .030 or .040 under the required ID
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wndzoAGP3v02TzpxyPVuHC28Hp-KcwH7LOD1VfpxS_aD9PUAzHLRZ3UBNkhQF0IRL4pp3jiNbDxuSH-ZjOIQTFQ3vXeQ3hVtaN4M9wX9x26n53ZlnQj1zClwNfhY-bUggsWvUJ1iJ1QFwmW-GoZLBWc1hp5WoKJ6l9h_-FJAzE-RVcpGaZdy7jIZLdVM0YrNp-r4aiBKhB571hPbFbWJnbVUaYpOTWOGZK2y9yauvITUNhllnahHmepNbWci5HkWd7SPLOrYVHt2aNd694fGcy0SY6PoIKZVD2bk4IgsQMZmvnwrIMbi1HNbMH3GArIox5x47Xp95S1G3-NH_lLH3er3JfsFnw8K6BrPMsOFrYP8LcSlzwV0kXA_gVrcOYHu1SUmHm9wFvgZbztwem0aL7UNUW9z3i4YBJ4JzFN7yZvs47dIfYbrOxzzOHvrc8lwg9JG-RrRl03E27W4c6NF8XYneWL7IIQ6AI6tIkmrZWpniu8c0V2lrF0ItVPPW5ghSSezSp-5Vf9uS_CJw5XDTxSvB-L5svuiM2biEjCzFFK59-MViGA5iFzBmSSJKdjaDi_Fc9H8K-hXf-nrLDMAlXN5lFlEPV1guF1V82kYZ9RZkWm73qSZvEVqzBJOEp-nqLwlWHmAbwPBAEshaj1tLFfViy5bogAUXCu9rPdptf-EngIq_Tx_E73x=w711-h947-no)

I made a pass with a small boring bar, taking off about .015" just to be sure that the bore was concentric with the OD of the part.  Then brought the part to the required ID with the boring bar. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dAxeaqQ--4CqidYpp55jRtxwmsl0KislKIH_Uj3a5I90lU6IMscKpfMbxSiywiXmIuM5rWIbqAiz18noUT7RHH4MfkhauR568Plfnu5owxaIQ-n-IBbpNTe3BmCe1ckNld90LsMQIg_j5KV3DPd59CAwgKQM9srzz7oeSYQF97z0oLNBKFOs4IpbNFL1X6EyJXKLklbz4xH49QNvPKiw0HrnZ-gn_JXrmDcw0zKgeDzaeYo3VBLLimLisxEvYHuO5lHiW3niKPVy3WmgwABQ9HRKMblMypF-PG5Zqb72yTZFzojc8WK0GV9aIBwUTpPcjrkg74pH6VhhVkkLi6alTsWPzNHSh8ZFcTUAfbgA-uPHTeM_Hg5bgEXc5xPseExlEILXO-lXGbGrUXAvMLJjjWaKNiF6Rl_zTLiN_hTyzwUtUiqKLrhdn_smf8HZ-QkolZb0l7dj22ROhr2ZKSMpggD1F2veKXZDtOrhi3ztDfNZG6yKGhYCps4UuYVA7nKJVItuaMRuaEWy6y02iXciX1FvMgaQHbL45lm-6bp5G-8k44dOGoyjJ76dJGj8QrpagqIhFA-9XX_xbtlzPf-H9s_OUYfLhWSsh_hHxXxtcoGPtWs10B-l6_m4FoCy0iqTcZ0xhaWiJBBFVT8W1DUh_6zPYqRsJDVBrhYYkcLJCbmpHD5h5goBGYEo=w711-h947-no)

This pix shows the housing taken out of the lathe and placed on top of the drawing.  Next comes drilling the 4 mounting holes thru the flange which I'm doing on the mill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GLhtBLLGTtGF6e31R8L4ICwJ33S9wYmgzrgEA6lilLMT9lo5fNcXd-1HO_3YC4fOWqdb8YG5Phtj6GjrLqmjPuS1-4hzwvXvHAWwrguLQplcmuNhSRX8pu4nXH6psJ5i_hGsapcDR5o0MEJ0sdsMaDrx2fnTxBKdD15xdjR5OURVjfOKqwH3zMlYCWekpz_qaJdmqd0lQN4gzc1d7IJU-7l4fHi80_v8UJJYAruGrRYl364dAvDx5_di81XETHnUkZ6HNnr1PkRiQ4ngfFPGhoG5GEBQZyJSK7WckXFk_z8MfxqhTl3VRXOjB7VQqFpJ0sXzbOZ7TElMsYwi3fnhG7uo1pjba2IjYVI1dSWkP4nDvg_BU7MrShuM2aJXGuR1oOaPIYFgPF7174xO3KV1nGpnNHhJ-SOg3shqjR0_x-VOGEJ47xaYNtufzyJC4TFDf8zDim46jt17bZ3CIAJpD4W8K0Rgmb3thRggUw0qNqizEVHRnFKVVMQbC-bQP6oyT03TR_KcTCZG7Yj27AjXsPzC_sogWb4IHbFDH321jdFjm8AGtSekjYw50eAtIgyX6YyNwoCEbZ1KkffOjat5wkYFaxpFJdukJJrNCIcgiV4kb-4TCk4sG3-9jSJ10z8jSW0PcBDqWC1A6rL-lcxlFABtxj_u-DPTk7DxHFY9ccKT6AiRBfIcjKPk=w711-h947-no)

Over to the mill and getting the housing centered up.  I managed to get it to within a 1/2 thou which was plenty good for this operation.  0,0 was at the center of the part.  I'd drawn both polar coordinates and x,y on the print. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N8XczExTnO-M_c1yuJPOJuV3cXd7qqbSTrGLqmk5WffWA0ouuTbMdVSnU3oRQBxsabFxICEEr7d0Kkhb5F-HxwEt9u_8O8dmA7n7VrFn6u3yYTJ5NIns3zALFOsiD0Hhow6sFLV1fCpd0Vh8R5IDUfZ4cPlP1J38lQbB2lOYevbAzIujQghHtfr1bKClkbE0kLuuObfqNUQkciwQ-2U0nopLEnGh4pYUjtTMAXncSqHzz-y2zO1t5JgWHULExCs-jJ_HX_6iCbU7X-oKoAmXKtcWP-m4kbjlIKTCqX6Q_b3oKhdWxj1XoY3_T06K5KGdiFWMJA1mqwLTfHDxGDOnNc_j4QWFFlthCpvO7sKvQ9lJwDigIzhxEgpTDycUr2G7AcgjOYAW10bialruUJ7z92BunRFbGwYLos2HUhV1fgXl-BCuUbIxYs7x2XtbYL1KANAysavV4ZAdytnLOup5fMtiGf6lO3Gj_mDw6wEUPWMrC8n54Knc16hxi2heCFoxuaMCK4YpB1HVNX9nK7uj6SOAG9eLKrJg-zYlHJ5ynSDoWL2IZXgKTzbB8OxPac1GbQJQC8D3bp8nL9fBMisfCqwai0f9XHo3WvednygloUl-pjojjzN-h3RFn69WH2ep7kE9VLmVi1JGFp1TqsR2S1A5PLtc7gPmINmeYU9qFq6R7IMdjRGPykqd=w711-h947-no)

Spot drilling the 4 thru hole locations.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sgT7IpSJaMnxEgqSdI-Xhw1Gj9i4PmJFUU7x3euYept3ZHe-5ufMJDi_qPXTkVJ0mjCpPBKVnREFmntq3SRo92KWIVZmQ5mgeXpHOyZG46MsZX0e8-QI_mXVHQNJNIMl84ekkolv3lQk7JIjmjTxxkApjCJqeNWHPfIpLWElJ7RskXJdt9SX6f5wbNShX3A4RnBI9z81XUjI_bCDmWe-qcpGP8cWh8zSA5lptux3HSdZ9SYSgFJJUJhxd7oMNb_RIhVzInLNCNyC4jPNO2-3i-9NAPdMz3lqDWYX4cVJUhZ51Qb8Z0h5gfJLgg-6LnkpZLj2EeCE9b4GkarSEGZOqlkVoxV_B1zIQBU8poBMQn5cJvgQ5xk4a_F95DzsqRlWdZb3mIrprUG7rICoamz3A5n89n58YliSIU1QUqNb9oVGyUAcWMjvxsnF1wGCStnouLvIBmfaE5x9Z2oaJ5Cy7P1GpK5NUGiIor8-GtT5d65FgI9jCri-tc6GLFRgNjo6huEskn2EMb8NRAZfOWo1hFajyjdmHR00RzST-gHWGQf8mFEVsC6XHpeyiZiXwTgHtU5kXt_NDsL8Bj7z_128s4NeW5R6lqmVJsqY28e1M_92tCkCfx1KV3q2ogzYi7AKT763azWmwVV0KBwFMm3907K4glCHfKTp04k4xn2On9SVORBGDD1k1227=w711-h947-no)

Drill thru with a #30 in the 4 locations.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZD2eBuvFbWTrKiBarnTckAcRJHuawFZYWTgQcETGXIEeGrtNp43BiD_SQL9hQ0jn3PHSN9TloG5BW2_uCHNR0myBYDYYeIzo6QSHIV9SMYkPhX4ArSTjyDoPN_rB_fVMxttqXEGjBXkZ-1a8J3IKYGwPPCJcoNvxPGd3nSqp4BUR5ErO09zXeMfaFLKYHinIhtvRYmmfvstkPAASPwbzJAerBDi0azsylEiFcAQbOfedDrxy9ex4LzxHpBDmQOSnnWCd3ih3vQl2IzVJ9uNDMKivxZHGgw83NTxqL7UtjcffITs98TjCRvRbj0tYroltzwFxFf-n1RBsNVd0RcAi0WdTi3J4jywjXx-iLIYhS6WW0KNKfls1gCNJN3lLbAe9SEu-Sbsgw5pf7NJ23GnE7RWDPb9DP0duXCJmOsEArkfTyFrLwcRT56YTcFOqRaVc4PYrF7brzGwCY141X5n2eSnZFJDgc3Dwh-pxb8I5oQCjhlo1cl4J-i99WU0NrnugW01k6MHFhpi7tyTlC6263JCa82Kh2DOsHyTzZN7ky7smnlhltnCplnLNrI6nNbnIo1w_1Y15UbKEwexcMnTE64pgBFKMSm_04_cNWpxZ-x39mcOWBkd2B75bOMA0Z3Ym5TgQMBTBBgoiMQfxDNmLABXIC3q3fTk6egujCP_qtkUlzVyAf_un2F8R=w711-h947-no)

And a MAJOR miracle, the housing fits correctly in the column!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lFsNyWz8h0yxUlpTHo0YRJsLcqh6Q74HgXBkARt9Jp_gTQMmrhFvmCgQCXk6DM_hQwMgSuaqrOouiw6F1crNv-MklMDY0pBTm2fK4BEPw3WUSsxO2rkNgKT5-egGjjzTU7qIon0ZYHLYWdzoI0BFh6boTbbL-sxkvFM6ptCyUusDv933Eoci9uaOcLqJuDZ99mfmRcFZCE9uu-prefXD92CP3p_Dqhk744u0BTUvDNcaiChM5Gtyoa6v2Zh5kGYJh2CJ4kDQYokqcMIcuG0XgPRTXEcpvcWE4mX5tt9V0LXm1_op4vpNr6zsTc9AA1N5cyPpGcd7MXC362V_kOBqpGAInwLWBq0FZCtXUghrdJ5gDms8-kvbzCYY69BIXmzYRIbSIYZQIPc7PFjOgMOufuXgQqlfMdDpVrKXmBTju3cOV-L480Ded6czhZG_M9KZJZu6cbT9VnsCIDj5bULQMLJb53aLkBle3RelcEuarliCD26wYUHNvQK-hxatZSxdsZz29yuu8QSBPp6Tuwfvd8cZ70K3Hw7f1-HcvwAzenFbXnKCN8ZoRVdZwY0FEx1xCePW_ned5rluw8Z9Er6VV0duZRCzaIyX_cBnKDtO0_ZyvaUbDpDUd0Vaq0RFSjoKPTWuIDojTMkCle6nZkIEyzApDAjesree_nsSz6dZLwYjHjGe3Picw__x=w711-h947-no)

Next was the crankshaft bushing.  Material was SAE 660 bearing bronze.  Interestingly I purchased nominal 3/4" stock.  It turns out that the stock is supplied 1/32" oversize.  That's handy as you can easily make .75 OD bushing since there's enough on the to turn to the required diameter.  This pix shows the finished OD and I'm starting to drill the ID about .030 under the nominal 1/2" ID required for the crankshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DwsD1y1Qr_gCuBRo83NDfc9_L5acAa9x8yuBpKpiVGL6THjd3rTBtWnYWRJEmdnBsAtcK9s1rWQr7sP_wbfRiHlq46i2WPI7G8wIX7yfUBOHinCwQ-TYexJIcdVvBHduw46GjbIMN-XI02HAdCzVcJ0uTW3tZu-_Z95ozt4lz9zvw41W75k71b7mWFgO1NwkRzGOrZSMM7KTb-sDOFE8fVLfUNQo9B_Z1H1hbfVCPaab2nHCHSD1EJl6_KuJmV5ufwhIyc30I6lFFv3eaJFQ7WILcW3dMbnBNuACKSrAdICllnX3bDWOtfwgthYu_C7TRBsJxTRq0gWDJQq3TwG6q-yoX3lKZ1gv4UxNBDWTMbplGlWvV-WJaINJrecx3zre3I8vP5s0sLqZTNsOC94ZZcDe0kH9wB0ag1KwUhh4HKc6Oe-TaqbCxYuzyzNZwBFr4_JmbEl92aIWYRfQHTQox1-ScmQXcJlFSdO0SjvrhfTQ5w8DrqfL0TYiXS95sFYvK7fdgJevJTFKe1w0VauqTKnAIh8C_BdgTiw4GlTBc5WvQEFbpsQQUUo8aAPnp88-LsPTZu0J9-rSCA3NL2H8q7L5LZ6iLGyRWFL2Y-CPGggduB0nNr5HW4NTVTM-rkSW3HJSF9PoIVdMM8BzSHjm5wETvxuGe9kf8yTf96cGdbcR4PcwowQxTE7R=w711-h947-no)

Checking where I"m at on the ID with a ball gage. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WoRuDsK44FCyXYfcgXQq9Smjs5kjZ8aDoxOWOHTzHliNQFDtNQEQrVr-f17yjtVQozH20CRfODiccMwJrGW1nvfnuV1Ip_A5smInEmCYK8cLwJhmQQx6zpGobkH4LDV_72Nex6uj6VwmPg_EcSCbHLD17MFpcKPQ3OZ4ezB2tRWnqG1Y_5cJnkh014p1b7FuuMnSiihmKmCdUihjSZ8DUgDMz2ME9szmaEw07jQvX7obUc32hVQCA8yv6kGzCPvL0V0tW-MS9v-3d2NBWsU9VsRfHd01M417Otih17w2ufWlnvPV8t8UXkS1ioHgxwGcmG3wqT4nLB7MM0es858pa3N-1Ph6N3JmsoRN24vurJq6cBEZnFyz4vk8AGwpiJc1_4EOdUtfuLwBIwQHxDP6wTfZREMFiBvAn3C0OP84RWccTt0ysS14DJUdgibRHGjf81m4bxLDFqJr6MBgFbGJap2D388JzIsYnhdIclQ6MX0COMcAyUlFui79dZBxL8lAoHy5XvAQw3FwlBcFsG5TSIK1bp0t3j9zeFe8Tk0K63AIKjafogJK2Ve2y545UzIlqBYpUJejgIYq7Qghx4TpgmsMGlXqLj1TLDUQYzYYJxVGpJ5PUtT04OVLh_Erv17_cSrbkb_wQRS2nIipg6wMrccp2Ud2fefz7D28Q8XFZKt7wNdhCmunkbLw=w711-h947-no)

Final pass with the boring bar.  I missed the pix of the final operation which was reaming to .501.  The fit was very good.  No slop but the shaft turned freely in the bushing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WcpuGbi06EDWv4alRxuwaPusDkx59kuhsVQDs4uf_iw-hM2Nl4bS483JtKG9DRzrRm8wERrWDE-LWFHN0Vb9GkZeFB6-kEYa-k7lohtbkv9TLlg7RSMFMlIy5q4T5_qV9JSAGKUhbGrV330zLXLqI5ZjxTmKP70qebqrivs267iRHT5jDSgu5T-jUELlzALSZKbGNR-Vvqn9IANmeUOJxxl5FXxjZozqMUnvkI3Alj9KmvPQIFgCiJm-B8w_6acAk_p8sAWqgO1rRMi2JDcyxRnI6voYV0I4MXdihrx8GhhnZ5NUfeE5v1bqs0E4RewwrcsMhu_mZkVkn3frpAJCX5drOpKRbi2aW2PYHwjBs21GlR58yE-dNxwhxnOiaLpqIpKAo0v84bOOHuRMK1BJF1w-6OKwUNqxaIXpiTtID_KmePUvbnD58UkXD2WKaAvqDk6Yi3RkZNtq6PtUwyddOtFf99Gz1iLZyHVbu-41DD0QtzWTiUGqFWzg5Vi_XTOj86SzNDdJV_mSsBy4QrDCokL_yHk6pGtJSgM6UnmKwMUXRQWENj9VxDznwJc-iT254Ji1DsP4697JG-wXp2xR8kLcaeaH9vubCVtRECWA4N27CVXEX2vTaWqKJU30KHborBHZQu0kLSazukZauOC_REm1_9G-qRZDUNNBlE8-18i2IE3AgyS6NsPc=w711-h947-no)

As i did yesterday on the pivot bushing, I cleaned each part with brake cleaner and applied Loctite 603 then pressed the 2 parts together in my bench vise.  This shows the completed housing and bushing assembled together on top of the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aaTfYAXp7Qb3TtH-o7ahFcLDY_EKUvamLQgyndUdKU6fEgSknT0u5phjrekLLw0dzn-RBbqUi1DlW_Jii5pOHT5sji8d1qYeftfQAeRKR6vc9KLL61-CpAiRebb3XAp4piz3H7EDTknMaVluhJltc0ybHGMzO3rmvOzl8RrMoz5kYAhBl27knVR3d_ShkH72a5sZS0PICF_438MVw-SknFwn5UTBEUi6USO0B1sC0UjXpcv6bKGhCXklDmpgeJS-e4vpNrtO77rVW5eDGaZwR25A_8ZjnPhRuNgziwS3IL9XRlSImKfZ46ZWCqla79XGkrFEKF8Ib-usPf-tS79BpRhRRDvxVJj-U_pmSNarSjs0NwaphN2d_4uC5ixXStrkwVChCzp5jUYYgTPVq5X1jRjp7tAeuiczehBABpkD6aMR1vupszWWXLE46xKKaDlDRkeErL9zUJzloGg1IGTn7zmcVOjSP1_YFBGAxrmyoFiHUld_sbHvo1nllJwY0ycV_prTqf_WWRvF-VgqLwXLHcGgmorZIZAe-QnQUc4Rt_OfGNrV1ZoD_sH5D3jsYy3YjttA-Y90wwxUSuJn0l_fRVjje4wktj9Sqv0T2FhVGI-9G5W0qIshaYnjQ_tgqJeqMiTphm0vcFVF3DIPsdKV3H5jLqWlUNglLPqXWwSvjRE0DTlvZ62M4zpN=w711-h947-no)

Another pix of the finished assembly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Iio6TaMWeRImjUxcY3d0T1kWKZ4hjAOS2xNb1Y6U5ts_b-CbnPQqpqXL7VURt363x8B06I3CYHpsJrroZUWy-5faJml2pwDcO_Rnvk12ecbWIno-boD_Nx7NQ4GJJZ-Y2DwWJq2QVlNuwIOwaAaWz8c7tJczqMrrTp6VcK6bkqGG_fpsfUe3YRR8aYQfJaxvolIqOfAupiiFZ6P6_R7oo_mnC5uUTl4Hpnztk8-8a2YKSd18MPF9B9VznW3-aaaRE-ReGd5CI3OqNCcG72dMpHjnjA4KBOsngi_JpKiEH13kVMyRvY0ks57vWzyYBdLh-03fKRr36E-KwgyahLMC-3RFaz8A015uko-4gBqsVScd9SFA1Bhmy1vnGd0eEpCsQBmzqGutxgAiCodkcwlfbxjAn00i8T-NONOPvhrBYUmS2qc4XiM60Vi2caa__fYbCrrWzE_cEbsvIAuJhl5RNcnKaOulDxMFlO4GPeD8YzgUs6HamEI4NUmwr8sQY2WsXyvBGny0VsnQdACs240Uf6yTCRZe9eahDZK1YyZ1SGO_5Zf2yRwY80CLOzC83hPM4xhND2AF6nWcD5ikhFllF2AK60WN3WfIR62Rqr6JUnvatRIRoxxjRm0efP-De9IuYB11szd0R7nlqmecINSzjzHg4CFH4owNbQPwB1SxSSzV_m75Pvj4kc66=w711-h947-no)

Finally, a couple of pix of all the parts that I've made so far.  it's starting to come together and look a bit like an engine!  First pix.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bhrQcb4_Ar0AG4VFrnmsQzaF3I2TsbkY3odRofGvFMNEanFkfMhGzizQgXrxLLffprEcUgbyZ9wUNx-cWK2_plunEhIRRGKn-3yI5J9whMnn0askgGnWMNzdZXyEEKaJiL0bfW09cDD4kRBsRS0AGMArREGDaUMtMmPk9ODP6EeGoWmcDxknKkG4zK3AvpjAxvBypXoq6K1ifc8w9djQVZ3mOuGno1qbNHO-Qh-BZ1DiWSRmhBzHNahkKtmYT6pgg8Mrsn0qDJcPs_6lZzf1cbcZztVqtIFADPUEPAbRzUdlpbWZpC37XZ9HQ3ucKdu7EAU473pzVJNEvoyV-mJW6M0X8cPRyIe2QA-L_CuskXMMhqe82ZNIsg2oPFBAB7zq-JrNYccogHW0EBFnKdIotEhqRQyCD3Zmcv0-MrRA-7-jcqL_c-LyuE2Y02DXKbQ9frG1sNWCcS-KVree_KGeSM77G3nUuKRvmy-7xUFIZpZnSfTGGFn_BH5C3Q9PbrI7dGwY3JQKFcZ_GGukoLsHt_J2JkTDVRHRp3xKSWV4LMipQk2f34fbia8dotbN1AW1GUux2Y929k7o8djiPLcUTIfKx0hpLbh18IfSvJ4yWdwCIfbELgbhUt2pcsleqL9eCiDT68LXJHHWQ9U1Z256XJ4xu2n4A1xHsAVIevSYsTqPcdso6pgobU-S=w711-h947-no)

Second pix.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DCwhSRmP6L_gjOS_ZpEHoFFwpZNlklwOrN2gAQ9QRvS3w27KgBDWOlRUZ8Ktr74vHwOFtlh6ALo0_HzduAEBEzhQ7-8VKj6S0gRgD80EfdrvMItpSDjEQB_uP-NtmjqrK3qe6qYGzTq2TZFurtR13SKSdZdFRj4BV0h6w9dV86fEtSFUA1rkDD6QOx3OI2CrIYt1DaD_rL6usCaTh1tMcDcGfWNHpEFHhlOh23V1-Oj-QQ3IiGEvKH_5UQ8JJowC5xpnnGU2cOwvQWE8Rzvpfs2S2wrxKCgUpHCSFRwvo60qGOJC0aGJ2ymS6kO89CVj3R4p5OEvm6mxwtE3yMt3e2ObdfDJyGRe5n_SW4v-Gb6HZqfm62eYW1kUm0-fjjds8nufEBIYMdstm83MpwxNfGGNlFGs364gADG_G0IUchyQvvolshOjZrfO69Yef8AUWUmo2lc9BcfGJEjf0AYX2xUixFANEpWJ9ThImBJOSF4W8e_G3nvbeKkezsGBWd_zJd4I4Om6tbguG_TBVHUI0tNE25Mv8xkE1i96YdmS5Qt5dzn-ZKBRxhHAePe2k1vgU9WG81wNfvUfb8ZIm6t02x1gTibmNnIknScfYpGxkIUHXypK4zSX3aiqmmonSKUpWuqL__x3fxeJvOtAUF8eo22wTL01YQSlp0-Vo7BhrfVHaam3kZbLoNT_=w711-h947-no)

I think I'll be able to make some more progress this coming week, although I do have some more work to do for my brother and I've got a couple of meetings to go to this week.  I hopefully will get the last of the stock I need tomorrow so I should have anything standing in my way of being able work on the remaining items. 

Enjoy!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 10, 2018, 01:05:55 AM
Nice update Mike, and great pictures as usual.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 11, 2018, 02:14:27 AM
I thought I'd have more time in the shop today but between a meeting, visiting my MIL in the nursing home and doing some more work for my brother on his parts, I managed to get only one additional part done on the engine.  In any case, here we go!

Today's part is the valve nut.  I didn't show all the steps, but i chucked up a piece of 1.25" brass bar stock in the 4J and got it centered up.  Then simply polished the OD with a bit of Scot Brite and then center drilled , drilled a 1/4" pilot and here I'm drilling 11/16 thru the part.  Kept the rpm pretty low at 260 and no lube. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uoPZAkXESLhQU4J80JYr9CRn9FxuCvfeuAtLuZtc_3EGAugtXSjeU8KYfP9b0yuXv0v9TpTFYMDF1LeABzwp4EFjXfyY8QfNXfENzGmT1ralJrqxkL-8caX7gWG4s8Kh1ZvD3nQPYLIH4IQsquS-lfOBqUVnL64SYWWW-MTTbFpMlDrTMoAWbW2p29MoXqbv8-uEcjp0K8RVzefI5t4Jwm4fCzBETZ-aVDpClWWFBaqsgBJzfR-9vV9iO94xD6XLi9URhbCdDhc98qaN-2theAlcXZ4zm7bb9qIhoX3hl7bNdpNc7QBv4E1wPJCB2bXDY-Fg4jDsplBqJpkLSbatOuB-FrAYyS-O41Okk5I7cDKsYuUhKHkljgK4NXkEWCSjOjco96kxAgNhMpzZAyo7Nu1L5dD1USBdpNrCmHGU3I9x0IXovNihnFzsa8Kyek6P8COOA8dkEfT9MdMoouqpvtsTFh4ueOQsYKk4_yKXuCdRPzJjd1pugxV8UPeowhEisMu9l4ANI0kvNTzf1e3MzFyWGmTlbKJszg04hBt_a2nJUNi8-qZRIxfotHrdw4zMPyFdG2W6NY2VVrteJoUm-jjXhGVui7mpyG9X2EyEz07XsP-kz3g86VLtQS1zaiZUQ_OAKFioQI1BHBjYlbcm3LD5eN1y_FFwSy_ehSyd-DEf7VPdmAOeUSGu=w711-h947-no)

Then after the hole was drilled, the drawing calls for taking the depth from that face to 1.0" ID down to 5/8".  I did that op with my boring bar with a CCGT insert.   Again that brass cut very well and I was taking something like .120 off the diameter in one pass.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2CzkU-TrIwJYl0KMSDbkxCQAkk2S38gEMK9yzwwRhEzMoonAuzeKjCEHMHhDRByPXLmVvEASiF2AtrQJi3kX9jqTMQuj4qlLjhO44hbcyAReF55pwgWYJvMesLwD-tcPAFzW9CV-kBWcpGVZ6lnzIGgWdQRzdW4op50lrvhs_FAwhbsHNrSFhlMh8DY6yuPYNGOQCPAJaDmmNTeIMx6X_oYGHpvt5PrDZRnoMGU3__87fG4GdoBxZCnLoNHobHQYxw-Sya84LRK3xSIKH2xZEfGVnzcGxBlA0TCqbD4zY6-4G-okrzTG91qOY03Kj4e3W50IpVUjpJwYgTmlR_d-GWKXR7cmtCTXMIU9T0RErw4wBniYtiVcYo6HRBtBUp5xGRpJtj6wqEwn7---6FZwzLNdigvzbWyj_SMsughnMNkNfwmesiLjuOURb57pxICrz0cN-kkoBZy8c3sd5QeUAQj9Bg1m5_lLWtIi-iY_9MspDjVg1jhKGAFwF6fEb-iRC_CvUvY8-5lQb7P8ZkvrKX4G6YT349Nu_T1tGKrKC3k72AjOYu_JHeWYbgY9S7K9BPBkVqaKHziu_QjbUy4DHqdyoox-RAoyDwhwPBhSMMJrZ6aB09pNNBOmVzf6q9SsRa9X2lXFO6ad4Zo0N2YMSkmZVS78BbWP2-MfKdKZjaL5xj58yDygPElK=w711-h947-no)

Then I parted off at slightly longer than the drawing called for so i could clean up that end.  260 rpm again and using a 3mm wide MGEH type parting insert.  Op went well and I got a pretty clean cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FqZNtX_Ue_9t6K0s6bplWFTDayiWU869cNwXAb3Gjsf3mZGoJ6pHw9c5AZEc2KrGNtMvyCrU1RlcPmDSPmei4rxF54y9pG4TpaNEHMdUChlEOMKGmLakDTRbsiqkq0wYu3-GoGDNH106-q-5xQ8u-QL-MZSnr6DbufbmKTloWQx9w971AZPQGSerxO7eEZhswvVdQncjkfzKGILSujlAQZBKB5w30HhYMooNKJ7GlDWMEcGhpXGFF-pd785SGDUdEdV93l9_0Kgzwfwvb4LUXS-DStP76NXtesNls2O8NkmaD0cGClaPRpGx6w84Cp3X6GkDZEu6P1qBdB__NDZJyeEeWL_kQHw5YBlkZAstYNuPLU8KOue6jJvcnFznLiTWKgZJ0oGeV32g1cwB6b9bOHp_yvWPY9MFH2L9cvB5qte0Cj-4BR8cl7jz_oCctRr6n4M08LKYTtwIvHbCyvsJcycAzSL5scK0oq1BULivHuubekphkIh6oxdOcbWCW6If-SzgGGx9w6b8QXKN4ZbuFs07e7iEBhe1CA4mMTubPBxgnsr1CbRYVMkGDaknlh-0SFaSxp_fLFho-0jD4f0CTSzardzPFUt5H14RufdT7q1yyga-3F4axp199sF50BUBBhE_1EaMv8XJWcs6BGBsIhbLjuwpOOfsJ7f7g0QdJ3WpTLUynfaYcEVN=w711-h947-no)

Then I turned the part around in the 4J and cleaned up the end I just parted off and brought it to the spec'd length.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/frXfpyoU2dVlBJtI_Ri1UTjsWXXmxoAzGkM0vqPBM_1PDkeaXl1MD0pNeOpdhCj-cxR0-DF1BTxBCh-pVd_RnizUkJa2_H1PrJZ2SX0vd17UA1omhctP1Fo8mYM5TeSYmm3I_jFL3cP6dJmczXFg1-wlR7RV5BHGRPynbqblhXroIByiclB7EfpsmJEXWCTC77UqVD0era_7YM-FC0Fal538Z4Sapi7FNc1aOGzWhdK6658hEgE7-6YDTjtdj6kIfA7QcDrnCvvTAg1fiBVSYWiGOtrnLpA0s9mUmO5j8SHtzPQi93ZBI30AF6ENhTJ-q_JezFfTulWXxiuchqKe3tndVvPLa35G-MbEC-RpEiBn7K7ma0lZNG2lvMa5y1bUUerjkWItPBMtGQberMee8w0zH7vOozLxqgE_hRlphLxI1fH_gd8S3t4s1agIl6NfVPKie8FhGrD12X1AFvc51tPXtLOunG5sNPP2W4CiXuHXZvKdv-H8CqdOShambWcngLMItFzwnRvz44B056a9CMy03L4sI0pPwINDromrmn3YhbiZ3dSvWHPYwe9z1nWss_VnrLW0kXquytQTa31dVeqbmZA9wMHkECG5K6-hNVOuSnbXAKQEow7lF-5c5JhusNL2Zn9-fAhn49c_h-hvGZxQRIC2Omd3jWb2vvz9gT1WJZVc4-8Hf_02=w711-h947-no)

I'm not sure if this was the best way to do it, but didn't have room for the large tap wrench on the lathe and the tail stock chuck I have on was only a 1/2" model.  So i went to the mill and put the part in the vise between V blocks and indicated in the part to center up under the spindle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9lJuU2B4LGJPdHUaz8xBvW7X6Ai2Y11NCUco3wUoUOpTwePUaBPwOmes2hF9xdVEV7qZhYSk0Bj1fGikEeMmmusfSzGwlbgCQ8Tku5dLsdOTTbvmJXuZuvv07VH5Xa5yMsfFT7Q8TsNFq2zHif6q_AXFF4h9K8duKhh3uUvQ7gYk8VxUQMq5zE2F6dyPyT6wk_pPwXN7X8Rn8KTYqWePQU8fDicNbP2W7cG-A4i3JS79XWyZDBQT6tABPXhrbMz8GTzMMYun3PuwdU-NvsCrCJJKnpXcut_5u2jido3Ol-ghBjngocK-EnZhM-SZlETpEVRJr37G5vmGE7Zs_Epxhlp_MnjAEPIucN7bQF2WIL5VyOGpIgAjDGctZT18n52TKx9ynRmMfXoO66NrNOQTbAyOfXrTVp5fK3NjvzxON2LomBc6H96TFNjShFdl0nP-UxhocJpo4Kh79VWgHRLUw5zLyJdb7Qzm2Etv2eKdzFaFvORsl5VLEkJHjQhPJdp_sJlX5OU8NNxMdIZFOJgAMtwPXWfYWek8J-xTuK9AvR6jwttOll6ufMQvTZ04n1kTq40Kl6Zim4Tbq7zCXab9DiW1xQOmnDGRiDZ1BS0p7-KXMG71b2GWOGpIc35Ei8g5yFqcGu2LpRwbSx0GuyKDuuzLb-uBQFVDK41LCaCvVpFHJ80p7q8ZHRzv=w711-h947-no)

Installed the 5/8" chuck and chucked up the 3/4-16 plug tap. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Xe1JVwfWA9H66fAX0Nwcqv4ym9pSDz1sr-LTPSzciweOKPokznYEgBpARkIIiNncwSsGzvNfx2DOVEhOqsq6CQylO0RAiWSPhcaP55AmC1qF8EzF_e2LbkLnuQ7ZPIpXPgHUfgZhtfKQZAevlUC-87QflhNdNXqFLUxmJmciXhCdjFT2oDvPbJ4iYH4EMPJ42N-xj4zsBQ8JR7mkLMVC9m8bhrFWnFXUx5yJQ4bdEaI2dM_utYgVDy0Ss555e_ed65TQHnvQsHXr3_6hTWZNwmpo_Url0WdO4Qy4Cw2KdFedPfcxYhd6zzz1RtqkfP790efSWblX7B8qa81HxXwSAYv_x_L1E5H-ZP4_RuN5OYQM9yPmzz8wEKr8hXl2id97t_xx0mBX_MYKcaZ4sjWwus3Hdq1yfAuaw8k9ze_OJixaWaaRtXn4j07ks-pieGIWOZakRYKUHJH4SXwXSYqyg23CCdTOAz-1OOA-yk4XW1NS9D4wbRR0beo-YOkAonp2rpb8WbzFMGDcikHOwY_QJeLKbeKymTpdQvcx2vQe_nOdhXTUUL7ZLpBxqvua6lt7TBzYwBLS38WCvn_K-Bn7hHCPwmCFQGfi3vc7NlcNoZuV_bwvKvIYiX7ffjcrhnNW-wqhZVDycPVIX3u9zr4olXzZw1kdcMFgDHwX8kceI8IEGLxdO4yh3bq=w711-h947-no)

Power tapped in at about 80 rpm and reversed out.  Threads came out perfect.  This wasn't a spiral point tap, but the material is brass and I only had to tap thru about 3/16" thickness. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mU7KnYPS-yu4MQiw5ViSf1KrZCXUogPGf2ZzJQaK3-DBoKRv3NK6nIR0zzGSM9NvR-ASXyANdf9LZGLDhsFgpMuG-HBp8Twk57zyMdWcIG2hwqulVGIIfpnYk7qjT6rlCfvu5YA15sjXTpMALFgHhcfBCXzVBweA0iHaIsZ9jzKJBX7C0pTJsRWk9UZDg4TVlV_3KElGssMv1A8YJOtZ7-wMctqP3TnbVHriRrW337F0G0hXqcB_CijQRxhWLKXZ98bRUYYSOFCfk0rAmqATwqd21IPcG4OMM1G824A9-5tpjlrBRp8bbL3pACgNNwX1d0Ko4jEo3m3qD8nrJUeh9ebaFrVeJTzkVDqIohWU2PQvMeZgBaGFmeOq_InmCZn-RtvJPgX_Jq6Mtl5oEx-m893XrI0Oknq2JOy9MUsaVX0ibT6Qih_13ghUgwb7YRQF1JRyaagfbmZKPC-nEFABXGTWUm4TyrmBi9FYhL1jsm7LQN7mzp-DyqX4SYAH51jvmdkQlGuArtmvpTUjphAD7s-Sa1yqbk3D2CYWWreDdPga_8YuUmtWqnD8lwRqgRtavQ3ptiRI0AEpRzw_2kOgej3FZF4mUznU6dlew3LrPUHZBIqTP1m5BerixUbK75_iAISGewftenITmPFwL6XuCwlWWY2eCTuvArWAcrvS1KGndiSQEwNOM9JD=w711-h947-no)

Finished valve nut on top of the print.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zpS0wq5dLh8bejnJ0chn0GYm7l4xP0LEE_adP0e_wOK6fDBa1BYARykraeO2QqFSX4VBpVy6whHA-XtdVCnHx1LDodnmBGOspgUnvt_Z7Ae3hg1HN8GFrv3DqRj1zvfJO1JYswvIyk-ybycR7uD3BISgvTITKTdspA2a285SP0eXWtvz-RPcLCMFGRdBpsCp5qDpyssQaeZIZHHCt9E_DhkwZBW52aAX-SeO2R8Gs2Z4qremh1l91W-ey_mNufmrYHqWEhJeKVz23xmxGD78hhpz0cAisB_k-X35E9UPo-e3kaGlyekFda080GwwLsoTrhLBzRiSKdFyxFk_KmrpvGWLy8YmS5L7XbzQWjm9PcEhRahb7ey58TGP9vJRO6woX6d6XCVJpISgBSrUFVTXXD5e7c_vKoJsFLiThNTTKP0nb_VZNKVMdiNmJwq3LZ1VTcdSv7IqDrosTkrL0lehv70Kp2UmHR0WHHWooShUvF4J0aWPfuRoMETh2WE2C435c3K9Rxu44JT7VFva15UjIdnywekFxLQqqGKJBsWxhDtPGC_ZEVZN7udkm022RxoKa-PErRUWuK4rrrXi0ZwBfP3KaPwFqPBkrJihZZVx1opfePPIpggOtlpSn91bh9kC6j3XFueC1sq7R1LVDpi9dkNgd5z1M7d5mn7P_WNfXuZHtbobEPV5LhSt=w1263-h947-no)

And a pix showing the valve nut assembled on the pivot bushing housing with the pivot nut assembled on the pivot shaft.  So far everything fits!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OpHSv2YyJHyOqpoB5wTseyA__sJ7j5m-Mj9pwcF5jSsHZSid_ESJPAjLesLAiUreFRyjXM2o5V6gjjAioEenGGNbodjUqNDq2GBGHdg_Q2eVNNotIOdBslT-slio7UFVMyjqkfTOvaQpw6KrFacAK_Opztqw2ycH_5uHenHb2DhYmP5zBLTUoZDEJWuGgErafHP6CcVTuATPCG9CtT1_twlGM2SPBulnA-jNIQBsnCdiL2piZ71zif1dvgX2thwnAFKDXy8rm7wBf_I1cJ0O3w0kAu_1DQmp5jRPKyXK-59gvVVycsdeMb-RMeBNReHvVkoYg8nfe4S6YnpPHKYvKuBfnGlAMxfuXt7WDd17TSupofOEpF1py3xlL6XDcLy9eMkkW5INePVmYVs93pqSkHT1OSqMeQcpQm8o1SE7IFPqPm2MXh8kdckJ-AvpHsd5V4PYRHjnr6aups1fYFkrB-Bx1EBeJIERrbza-G-Y7jjTiPgiun-ahY8QXNDgH87QHDPcRueiooiNuZuzc98Qdvk8tb2wQPcFITla_Z3jBO4LQOEA_bN1pIWdfw_Gx66UGrP7fAFLCOAcyAKEvYo2SLp3C4Slxbpw898dEdwisjiHrssnOhW2LK_jevgxuoudFL5hqDeoYxI7cEvazmKZmOEFdwYdpF139EnEQp4RAIYw9pt_bzgJbJAe=w711-h947-no)

All for today but I should be able to make some more progress tomorrow hopefully.

FYI.

Enjoy.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 11, 2018, 02:44:27 AM
I thought I'd have more time in the shop today but between a meeting, visiting my MIL in the nursing home and doing some more work for my brother on his parts, I managed to get only one additional part done on the engine.  In any case, here we go!

Which is often more than many people can do considering. Family first!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 12, 2018, 01:07:56 AM
I had a fair amount of time in the shop today and managed to complete 3 parts.   I'll put each part in a separate reply just so each one doesn't get so long. 

First up is the reversing valve.  This is a 2" OD piece of 360 brass that I've installed and true'd up in the 4J.  The pix show starting the facing operation to true up the end of the stock. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Td1SwT6uIee5oTpDa2BAsmQ-J2jek7AkszaCVqUUoLbKEOBK44iMsA4tsBLb3fQPlUqktYcPELOozcSfqEGBOBk_b2L5jwR0bqwj30Z-aKV99sL4EGeYwiDsXfnmPpjn8nCLzK3NQcntuf844HHxBRUGA1WUPgJ27nbcJYi8d6ZfewvXemfHUmPgcAfVTIuTV8gE8nfDtOUbD3fhzXPSL1Xx-iW_z8aY9A1tkdnu_8fWtgXcmfduybcYa67sarnDETYs6Y_DAoCmfuJ9l9_AyeyMT_SC6rLrelHYaQEJMVSHWg7n8iFzRiyticNvZ6CsjWfISS1DvuLsvWv9rZ7TUhN38oL_UoNYoWXwFkBpQHcQ2-UAxijwug_IQCgVG2ucfrgCDC4p_kkxqXr7PtrP1SmXv8QYauXdsiFp_jy8wuK7m5_zqHWRwtDtiPDlg6K4sL6--gsh9r6YhgQoiE6q-PAwUGMT_-kkTPVPqTm0yUSCX8A0wLB1w4FlrGiXGCEXHqElrW5FLrZuNV0Y00k_ohIuUf3F_XgpWXd8uWWw7eJPFoXDojoPcUT-qjKaSapMyo-EHeYYEIHT6l2iW4cfbcFYuljLeOvgjyl3qmfHPCzbV4RsOqBqNDWwk3vDHIh1g57gX6PY8JMBp8FW9XLcMCyHB7IAG-RVVd1EvWanBBYzF0SrcLrYCSCk=w711-h947-no)

Then I put a slight bevel on the edge of the item as per the drawing and center drilled the piece.  This pix show commencing to drill the pilot hole with a 3/8" drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FPqADlBBuW5vZmjWZFqcpXj9dXO-n7oObxkSYJ9eCIx6_qkJk1OXmkhRcfh4SG-gFZpzDXYkSjdS9TtS-gh6HUk4rqunXXpMoBmixiFpZOkAc_WO-CP7sc7qtgZITkTX6iMI-L0S_QvydXXZpYcXVPqiqIiRIddciLKnYfytT_F7EoKK1xS-TainlhdbTOjztIwkyZ1Veperafg_3-U5cQVywnwVMRriYQ62-FsClVK9dlw-zKVwmNdiCy3jYdfVZeIEkZaHRgqzBrhq0Ows8ykShVCxOZq7YWMzssN79vTyzjDp9dacQTZ9XWiIBnV4ycf7xLDVKsTCpRnUxXOD4gj8Hpspc7B_8zIawL08T6TUoNA9oSsrFv3F0pmrzCvkV7VZI6v1xlA3O1WSiDfu9eq8pURkHyIh5ch0jz97IVQhcDq_AO7HR49f2dUX3jg-mLemqxwIgRv87lKjjP3O9xkKizGxgKO7FyYV8OjDxqSXd7hN0pXLi52DZDqQQE5O-Mo_50ltnQT6laDu2JeTQ7N1dva4cm1YLR2EW9e821iXLjKgQZNip6pl4pyvIEvuSP8zNpgBsgW-FPNdxrFpqijlrEnwYKdGWa0E1NKHORec4SwMx5Sa9x89XMqlVkWs_FhrB8BDcW1OUvClHP5tMY0rs455ZxO81Q1r63LrlUfFDvrr9FXXma8L=w711-h947-no)

Enlarging the hole with an 11/16" drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vcFeGBzm2cq5ChSgqnsQYk0KbN6v2zX99ToiIl3SXkQlt3mt45lGcTV3luF64ORq-ItqHs-95jZN3SExDxSrprK6jycyUnmPsB3_nBBC1fH27YSxB3huKlHRjlsoMrJIGdDWy1j6WEkQzW68wlxmAkS0j1t1K0AYqtHoq9vTWh2KqoLpxlas46PGsh2oMwP8ZwPtYfefo8B1AtcImSVwMFvJVQwJQYFCLVGNqpg0bbRiLspq1ujcyrLosXpTgAjY0NWR_2L7782TCgKXKLLHoj5jztH-kSWfYetn-xnrpWF4MObyl53ThZjS_fCuiUstYzGpJL6HJ2U_DEgBv0KcBmWslqKUK3MNsPENIF2zVyBR73TnAqsD2t3ah1jeAHERlvW4e9CrT8HWbWqmIpK8hW81iFJjY5LYHVtKjsI5y24OZ8QsWtFTk5sVTNavYzBEQUCGOoZmojman8DnSVuNONrPt0AQixXewoXWzbtNspSe6ooA96ccmQdMd-6UVDoTlFdEnfJAUFww6uWdi-inI__RGu9QT5qZWBg26Rrj46oSy4ywAt7Wl1SA8ZgaXuVJuf5-bJmCOkxMX8s0PFZJPaefQbACD1OfN0MH4Ghh2QIwLoxTyDDNOMBqI07VT_feBdZA15ujLEHdjDFmbXxnmWme6C_POpuHk9jy-se9gIjXY9mvPewM72fK=w711-h947-no)

Then boring out the ID to .75" as per the drawing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2DdjzKEQ0aVDaIO2sjhwE8G-JRnqnq5wtPh2S739clUj1oP35kVOd5xOCC-pO6SsaadH7DRcRkFA6eiGZE6aSFm6U0n5zhAOd_89VSe12FxjQxtkVo6nTQu6ysCkQ5T4WW9Jsz_xkiUrwRVcGHI8XFn7wbCSIng4AvNM6Pzo0SO_Q4Hx-L6t1VObKh-ZSXXhTNyOS6tECjGpKOfomjQEcoyaEus-Ou6kkkl1q9zLIIhIlV1Aa5e4F6Rv9FbkwDcnvZUBw0rBd_xWCIhpeDX_BM3y82SNn9zJqI7yHsHd4Iya_iNSntxYIw3HjVMxHQJQcMORvBif_FIx0jsECI3ZUBFWxBKSbcQ0AKSf2dnG1FJJVDhWd2NeHJ8HlmeCt_nyvEM0A-dO2X3H56WOozmBrbpH2fyD-F0icxdXJOVyEXHFtdzhvCfGNNh8RzKvnpkNDmDU8RiY43WaHr41-IiJuYFgrEIBA71NcVijlQQpddA7YnVygogtuv9mnjxSVukPPCilaFQ11ZmjNDrUXqeThx8s_8rCfYR9m5HbJnSjJuTMO3l_93NZwJ5bqw0SS3mELrql-LawoZqRnY_9tZXuzID8XPEu7G5IOrfXH3W1l2G11CiRSpGly1QXUwvLF0ux60jgkD4C1JlBIpEkQs9tL1S329AU9IO1VpaulVmkoay30KX7SqTTviDv=w711-h947-no)

Parting off to just over .375" thickness.  RPM was 260.  Carbide insert parting tool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iIsZ2zpmA5FBiFik-C0h_YkbThon7G64ZDCA3CBywLGLIsuqAcJwFqGEzPKvMm4Kal93ofL8iGkRxXEf9Xb2jKo6L9T_QpJYwtZ5aGt__SibAvzBTVy4TKBTnoOEsRM1lcJs6-FWfYDnxXM0h0udfZddnV447YDiju4M_3ecRSqEQu8fRPl2CBXYqXpbGWH8Mirio_EFRL-4pkA95Dq1LFWD7KeoIzJb6JBbiht867LhmP7rEm0DEbanh8bDqcRr2z9NVTKGpDofdPwpBEQm5t121qV96_hHTFpN3bHN3DKHhXdbTXJk3NulQBO9Swzowlzqnhd6HrDcQlEXhQGy5qof_HwZm4wmasoG_2PajRe8kgjprxRr4kxCrK0ihLynhVwHPS0iqrGjqGGscKl22qwzAkdXs_dEVaWerVApVY4PJdCRl1JbJRigJbN5FjNbQUIsqEMtFf6REOYtC-Iu87XgRN7y3LnvxkcLS1r6tMjl2NpecZGC_V7W51uY55PeZYvGokUDT2eUkagJFpD0VC64y7637kvLLhlseVOJ0A_FQVIwSotOl-PM12Wtb65lsTsXmyCL8KPdEwoKcrA2q9iEYY6ob2vW8smg3b1Ffa-7naJmadEuR4ulasNaHqTn-hHwwznzwcbyzDGFNouRRjuf27OSg45aQkTFspnBxE8X0yfNuQLcdvJ2=w711-h947-no)

Then over to the mill with the parted-off side upward.  Getting ready to fly-cut the parted off side to take it to final dimension and give it the flattest, best finish possible at this stage of the game.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FmwawAma7xf4eHBzhABAI5ndKEEZcS9mKuMo5BI4CvwLyspOCcdG6ZPKxexHvFtxt55f10EMnps55ecliiA08X-HIOci5ar32aSTTSZXh5UU4NQS_uBZ8TnyDUxrkvvjn1lpltkwfpBs9KxRx0if0M9FxQb9NnublR_nTFn11S02vqlB4L3Gu6fbex48r1orFlsP_6dGKLnRi_UeD2l5ovmjkDN1xavOvDhv3MephrC03ie46_4HuzX5AQ5dUj8CHb3SnXmxL9QzFo1BP5z63DxG8JiurRyNeUsJwh2OxJwvuRYY17HqvkfbYsyp8Yu1M5lLZ0ajryPfbfHto7gG9uPNBX_BqTEyxqJhBQpazVi7Vvk3vZNKKlbZX4HaxtrgXOj9g1FYZbwnsbz396uSQehpQxZrNa6of5240f_HqtKjD32Nrm3MuK4wWzMmi6rau3UbqbwrZYjDVpl4QOLd7ENfpQoF8pd4M0u1PT2UwKANI7yPhFDBk_F0-OYRGUbZxE7sqgHdWJiy8ejwS1jU5dP-ZDWllDqYXuSdAkMDKhvXhrGxdv9A-cLRdsCkaY-dXYhM9BfJMcLxeFaWKDe4g4IwuE-F3g-43k13PFfqrdnuuQnCTAZeICe8qhu6BPu0mjIwEHtF2eH6m-90k5Thx76j1uhG10YS5K4zE4TqQjIFP1l-wj7VW2B3=w711-h947-no)

Finish after parting.  The flycutter is a Tormach SuperFly with an AL specific insert.  Generally this gives very good finishes.   This was the first time I'd tried it on brass but it seems to work just as well as it does on AL or steel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9LIAuqN9G0EdRdDwoOFEfKqtLiR26L2Ppxe_Uyy6ec_qPwfe-yUjDNoAP6blu-ELC8pZ3BaOrHTfyTqwItGW1AoEVEPb_m6eRzU2AOtDvr8GJuE4EooHGxXcDFw9sLnh-pzrda5ABZYTbRRtL0-n5CNiU4OKtA8sl9EovPwfaMv85WLvKH4Hww2OIcM5hvvn5qZ5boTZlMUACU0G240M3FxrlYMEuGo0JkTJ5E3-Yaee-0_DOtdBqZLdXXuO8psPyxXZqlw1RVNlznrVtq6N2IK-apW2GSQN3FRuqsuJX0M4RJrQvtysLoOQEGd1DeH6XyCnYZZfYYG-NxdLxdl9owWisFHRZwcy-to4W5CVtwb_uhqX_O31Mo9yw0uxTF0TuNSBnyAgK6jRxJOv8ZrB8TW7_e4GnRwGUI8KCvBJtob63ofREprCCQ6wVJ7zP7UThz3gJr4TqHtLG7uUxaK9qWMa7kV4ROPFhD338qM334a7L4EgtMVr7rL5_rK-xx3qkia6ECqQTqe0wM1NMEm_c-yNeKK28YX5DTV9s3DCRWfB4TzGGUVTCu-kx_22yD18WPSMAA6zEYwiv1IodJyeGtTJcTGtbtXPOv2ujpmJBQlGVFw5OvQK6ymeswOTx1V3o5-CT4J9CEHZsMtqqUrujSJVS4VVkVNu7Xhbj3pSh2GuPTHI1SLwLJkx=w711-h947-no)

Then re-orienting the part in the vise and edge finding.   This is in prep for drilling/tapping the hole for the valve handle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zvs_yh0xmMz4brYfgrCOFXxsU8ZRO3U9RL_Sz4EurMf7Gtzg2XOUG2m38Re45yXQlQ6yganYxpKxyQFJFOQIarGiuRrXaj9XmCPIlom_SlfHXmTb_vPuniL_e3CJYztWFSl7CSxO-aA94dJFUZ6GCZhPB_Z57qdJl7xblpIPt6j7p2rtkuvoc8FRSSvdXph-ki0N8VMXiSeDCSQNnA99dy7WI2D0oHaSTS-6UHREfClndsArujqzPIXzgrUe9iyrk3svhmTtddLJt8nOOmHMvVev7Dw8ZfoSdmUw_sWWjf8pHF5kekhSJQmES7zJgdBn_fLnqmWkbCBIDitt8NNCbA3JHI6SjE5uZ3ThlcR_FUodrmPPyRer9NpqnZxSS8K7qpa0UC8fxrPAUWt4E5APlxUCYe8h1ytFm4l6keuEDANTFYmSy7IabHqlSqU_svHumqAWF9xPPMtihWM7MrB9jxE6rKYgco6TpmNuH0VpK7JgS66JYHdWd5AOtEFjA9UJQnFvY8RoTyVhQSaFbJq0Q5m6DOgutnLQrLkoWIOhzAZmsL06wuaRZaBluTtxF_GlVSJd8mje9-sT_PYz7OAygbG1ObQttLyJCU6KWeTocys-_6fGPD7QRYONpRd4YSkhm3c8bVrzm7AdOWHDCKoZC3MsLPE1eE91SLDLi-fRDlPltmDCDKfFApjD=w711-h947-no)

Then drilling to .375 depth with a #38 drill in prep for tapping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lUneLFcgHnbhqVvBeHdeTLvJDRsOOaRXO8ee5Fgbx9SV-_dSFQQMnHaH7SE5ieoaZpv-eTSMx12zd1yme5BDJNcsj1zn5IoRsCvWWE_mKsPaLrVn3HiGLKVr97bCGCI92b52eyN09Wg8lsbU-A5Gc47Em33nO_ZDySuf-aoP_MnMvambSF5bLKzPs9x4e5xaCPCXhczcm252MI_GtCKsG6Gu3rXjC7tshPW_EITWMzNawdv0TNdF9hoGs4ZypdvdvBLlSVr2qFOQe_GnZobv0OJgi62EUeEL0MN0z7cjTeEp1_kx9xrNuwv17k5tC_C1sQPLfzSEUH5bY9fgppltGTvKseRNC8kHYl0fl79Tbjhgb3o4vgfZKVRYewNQzQ6QDXa-rFly6EpibXHTWdEd_FzZgJ_yfv_o4qjT5IDIMqEsRN7X3K8Y7JJgbMarDQUL9OZk2mbgFie3RhRG1iBk7lM5gJCg8TZhZPCGfOxdamZERb3hPY3uexQikPu1d_I5hRqd2JZkcaf7a2MYt8VXtCS633W9fEc-oanC7Z3WhglNdjSgCS7lz3TtFUm7498ol_EdKhafwzaiQzw5Lek2F6bDcP4XxDXKYHw2W7xL2CrMnsx37VnXipt-a60WHsuhHsgbgNKV5XTeDTh46TEKRC8E9EOnvg-8IypjdXP_BC5lOQP2tqti74v5=w711-h947-no)

Chamfering the hole so as to ease the tap in and avoid any burr at the top of the hole.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2QomEi7MuAKYRWkO6dcuA-ZOUdzvRt4Jv93KrfelqMHeB-n2S3LFTiumUru57wVU2LYEnQCSrcw5mppTWGhY-UxhO_oT_lDDUhZyOaRtL1hojMqIX53QRVW4hoXEw6rFDFEUS8iPIBFEpmt7GeZFsydbyx_ut_7zddPNC38lhIiMEgUqnEoGA3nZj8yxTT2iogERH5y9pLCWHM8ayogU1EDvK2tZDf3rEpPPLGPBgu5So4dbDfbL-iOWyqCuGet4s-BYphuiNCy3WeHdM4mI2F-VmZRjwAnlY8JWW8kJ3yPeQKD7sXX8jrpCrHVQ_0k5v_xTp5GLStSQdYszQLOaQeoWv7C_icOEBTOd6x7G_qQB1YW5ZTYFqDBh7fq-dCV7cyG9wJMXT7vdQ9x1Cdm8H1TB70bkanDFOwOwLeHtkh95pUaGi36sTXO7Ebn9rtNOLATaUGqi9kkphvqWYApzmoRwRyLRjrZfKqxHweSiAv5X7vgc2lIZdaPNPYwNw_paLEHlep9B9W7oq_Bb-eVxpcH3hYPqedvuYyPjF-y5GJtkAP0YbOQG6gF9wGJ_vUP2GyGRRfQy8gm2RTqQLT5BpG3s35JvimCvceCyaxGwozVHc7UZVytDXNm5OUBVYrMeHOEAG2x6tiTSRsevSI49gM-f1l2Swj3r1S391yoS-3uQte1geo4lvn7Z=w711-h947-no)

Finally tapping 5-40, first with a taper tap then a bottoming tap.  I'd started the tap by putting the tap in the chuck, taking the mill out of gear, and hand turning the chuck while lightly pressing down on the quill feed handle.  But since this is quite a small tap, I finished the job with a small tap wrench handle, backing out often and clearing the chips with an air blast occasionally.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IBtq0c_ts3ZeDp42bfvkb1vt2U5i7j46fZqRvGW5WqG-Sh-_-zhQ8iVYlff0Mhs2FokQwmeqlwSLeHrSYeCi4qtfk0ZjPlDJU-7PQMzFchvshX8MjslH0LJUu8L2BEdzSbsEyFUfEvjhxu_nEMRk8Hoxrlmu9pUXBkVozHKPOCEF_el0o6P6NduuzqPEv-A6diAJYMTAH4VtksqDgl70sARnvRY607k9QxaZbcGVQr8y7hMUhnZVCUmUz35Bm2GH662rgLIIg-B9gOHe6R4hTH7rdac6YrgPSqBaHBiTsIS-wakJ3ueSjPcivSeNUhMNXpvNgOXZgPBgaFEOEji94fiCsylFJkiCCKasBu3I7bFw6skbbG6I4p93nJYpXfWoEun1roxsZBy23EQO2JOyKbenRzwlcnmN941YVuRA4-aOvkSAOcZ7LniV0t0SfKwJ2YSdbv-xuvXfyzYcpodq4LpCNhhH4jQhgo2ynbpMCjtzkCOyrLD11HImdI0u0KVKgF-jRXqdVQTv4btoGDZG1rp-RapLCUzZvdQailyw3zDs0_8YZ0t8rceezxUm9ZN3KWtLHiZAM33lhSQrj-3hRYZ-JQvEEgvv9V8TkgoMqaYacrcVXxSBtI0qM2dqM4NKWMgFkjehbBj2zdm8uIqD0FqA-jQgdjVxJAUaayvYBauFsbWbzrqJl4r4=w711-h947-no)

The valve is shown on the print with the valve handle installed.  I still have to mill the air passage slots on the backside of the part, but I want to get several other things done before I rig up the rotary table. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OG7ZwNVwlKWMs3AvEYTgh7XaYhxXDyjRrdjGK9uLOGYDuUXAyWAsB3exp78hNTTbZJ7tn7AFYuR6D56b2iIRqG-u0M5ht2w58-lMvx8_Sx-WVdndoMZEz3MU-3AcNFZpYXqMGDrC4srZKv1wwGJXULTjwLU3B4QQubvoKTKZtH4igWyQcuyjpm4vI7iSofBgkoA1UJAasMjYS8TCboOn5KebnuK67f4Hc7sJ5MLKmSmvQCEC_oih7Mk4-6tBWyPug6wHWySItw4IPTi0tEC0O67FD_pkWIuhUXIAAlEotLWpAmFL2aMqCoqHMXNULlocbmBEd8AhsgSxA_hSXW_Da4Q8uf4F91csP19ptwzWh8yeIezIwgu8dGNaiBT3tLVAxSV2HrIq9sTHPu0I3-RZcvZV20wv6j33lPR9JRXoViOFYCHdZ85E-WXij2AD0xJKWoojOLBSu6w4beK4y6LNCZM-_XgIeRCm3cLsX_AtZKiFRlQO0Kd8MAYcxfWtHHhVyi4Se3ZdbTwoYrK5hg7PZkjIZsTwzmfgfJFovINffcURqfJUMQmYU94tRAhOH8iELdxbUW-D3OHiS6MJCyJjxPVX2tCsEofZsk58f0JUowIjl-iKBvNWTUfMMSZHq9ebRWXoxRSLviYIystyL-27qEYMDxwvACRrMUIvY4hW4DXg0VhC33MLVRrp=w711-h947-no)

All for the reversing valve for now, on to the next part o' the day.

Enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 12, 2018, 01:20:11 AM
Next item for today is the piston. 

This is piece of 1.25" OD Noryl PPO.  Luckily this comes oversize by about .003.  I needed to take it down to just very slightly under the cylinder bore diameter so i went for 1.2485.  I first squared up the end and then took a very light pass of about .004 on diameter.  This pix is just indicating the stock in the 4J.  I didn't show the facing op or reducing the OD, I also didn't the drilling, taping, and putting the relief in the first .25 of the bore as I've shown similar operations previously.   
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fU6MvPmywgHD9tBDXVN0EXY17nb3QkJkSJs1a878BES3FeM6G0ilSrqoOhbt9sCdmP91wZx-WthOIy7Ht8Xj-YlqvTDkEo6GF7TwBQp94qqMvWSZnVThUbaRAm203oWWO_CXOr1D5gKtjXoxNeoWfoXz7h47SIy6rGHyDrQO6Ku283UoWnyk5_BhypPoSxKxePXrjSXQ9TSmUQl-sm1nIAR2TrT_ZDJUkDjwMs79iNHsRpQZ_e5RhN9UDUGPrItJh4koDDLK8gMUwxy4ZsDPQro-6mt7cXuYcuS5sICEMVZdpbZMV2GwTuHzAmN2KTwvlC7qbZoz4-hsoa91D5gdFMPd6g7rL6-q0N_7QG59lLXyj5a9lAlcbT-MYZvuBQ67QMEywiNbKUi4hapJqVIG5czPqNIgSDHrQwECBTN4K8Boo507RLghVLU80NFaA2jjhcPSG2rYi68gWR3VyQWG73q1MiwbDLVbknfxjAtWzmXGq5Ibz3k-vmJ54jZN-npgSYpUzBpFRnQuX64PE6agd6DMrWeg5NkMRkw4KwTpBicCitKCcUTZ5lCXJREqMwdJtcx3rGD0aFc7iR64dsmz91ovud6HcMDfX9Sha1xEgiMQuXHG3e03mfHrL9OuRp6XYAmnT86wEFRnDZ6GVaPM6lF3BGK0qaMkRenFcZeHPy7z5s7AH6gYr1fw=w711-h947-no)

The Noryl cuts extremely easily, but you have to very carefully watch for material balling up at the cutting edge.  The material is soft enough that if the 'chip's get caught under the cutting edge, that can cause grooves in the stock.  After that happened once I was careful to clear the chips out with a pliers and brush that seemed to prevent the issue.

This is the finished piston laying on top of the cylinder with the piston rod installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uGIcmIVo2EqEdVsOQn-m3qCDsNdbCHhMijNlPYxBQvQIWitW8dioaxNl8AIwORfRcCMFpEjjHgvSY8TWtoE0twii4jhCrffGoEDjqLnCQm4ttbOgwQWLl0IWqMkbND44c-RgdPp8rkj2A4W08j6Y-U0BXffYMaH8Zx2m6dcc8-5JekGVE-k2LPScIT1gAsYoyD4S1WuNdzI5mYkNXUsoN4FiHzCWFTUX_b5sd1zJCnPMXfi32K3LYC_ox-fyQg49bovFAaGB9nev4o61wXUl7Z36IO7l3D96fh6kSl28xVv_8xFeoEs8LjfHmLk1wI3xg5SJHpLNr9PS5K3UUWR_KyOjRtUuyMpuQPtni5J8bfIdJkMR2bMZCeNysq533znc8kq_oGQGJD5O-GA3u-Wph3YO29SsYSv9RWRh0E5y14RjKWwAqhNb_dZFON7IJkDeCjohP9p0X0DWH1miOMcceWULdHbsnx_BwQiERBd_Yix_NfD__5heMYn5DgVFI6Q2WxvHA9wSNLS0K0jiQ-ZrYaj-lBg79_r3yL2Dalc7hphC5SXMnyBga3f7AaP0-r9HZ5PU4MROCkRfvzigzkG54p-QYxM9m0UpHGFMML4Fq3aZibN3aZ0Sfu4IAvs86EQEYxJQxCari_Qe4YYYFyxyjFr234jnR6ti-xCt5l4UAR-vw8QDDJg0ydAd=w711-h947-no)

And finally the piston installed inside the cylinder just to prove it fits, at least fairly well.  Actually if i block off the opposite end of the cylinder and the air inlet ports, I can feel substantial compression if I try to push it into the cylinder.  I take that as a good sign!  If this fails,  my backup plan is to make the piston from cast iron.  I have a piece of CI on hand that I can use if necessary.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a5PqqT5S6ILKaf2Ume14Hw-SsqcBEQDKTWfonspTdA7e8IWPvP8MbgXXXJcVEEPuh2bEyKHhx5-KJMqDfMzRQZNa-HQJVU92mIR3kwxawtYKEpbOcuQPiJIub0mZJnh_yPsPYWHGLPQctiC2qHR07dB9md3gEHIqVlBjnOcUqF16xXUz_2PwOXWKha_zpUUqElgmN6Fe-QASRak80SeC-MbvSdGGjpasKMIajOpBfbJmBIK7YVeg_4ROvKPQMwVoiBfg0sfZPNRrcjb8aQG2Atz_2IjRQG1wEl4jJGKA7LSbsGfYogxdr06-Ma-sKfKDdm5g_CzoigvhuHZFZ5RNdjPy2yL5uCgQ7cA1kwzoE4wuDemUOxfI3RkE7VNu-9PgQwzPA8mRpP8UUoaFOK-HMP1hCEQUB2LsHs88CcLqjLyKDwU61GS528zi44dUt7dfFEr-zAbwB7CbJhQ6IP_goVGFt3khI_z6DojjvtGQ2nonvRW7LmbB3V_E76AMG-R9TwHgSVMzqEgacGi1e9HmAAt_4mRyIo1bNGQmnjNg5xB1N1GyHcUZn8P_PZbynafjYz7l5ODlkVsD_bhViooE0Z5_AVoy1PxuXGJZbwSRbwRbwUDyQosjcNjxmXZshXInMknb8LMvgP-sXY1ZDTRAkwu5VoSBvGn2OcKwkFuDx6is3_CL1lZMGX-Y=w711-h947-no)

All for this part.

Enjoy!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 12, 2018, 01:33:17 AM
Nice progress and excellent looking parts.  :ThumbsUp:

What are you using in the chuck to prevent marks on the part?
I use soda or beer can material but I'm not happy with it. I can't seem to form them to prevent them from falling anytime I adjust the chuck.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 12, 2018, 01:41:59 AM
The last part for today is the crosshead.  I used a piece of 1.25 OD SAE 660 bearing bronze for this item.  The crosshead guide is to be made from DOM steel tubing so I figured this should run fairly smoothly inside that bore.

After chucking up the 660 bronze in the 4J and indicating it in, I commenced turning down the OD to .875.    This pix shows the operation in process.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TL-2DAA5TN7kkAocyz_M3V0X3ybkKbKPfWxJEmzg7wvi9u5sqLL_AkLT037vtS8T2UinXn1ihEeqUmoJlWAtDoIRu-NcqS-KtiW2G-4oKwhAqlgCbfb3yc1MbfhGOwo6afBHbMfDENY6tJ1qU3CDIfNT0rWTrxUf7KAFyM0wzXj1tqs-yw-QijsRXDZuTQF_MuoMYHMVOImrF9GHA1iTBIFHFDkCEwsijKfy-2_YX0JHmjdgu-ZEQLzsfUsOWm_92akY5sJ-oiho9A8LoIMEw0WmT5ABP69EQ5qBh2SO-K-frmeBkS38-tYwH7eeqNM5-YIbZwPqNGm5mm4ItSiFcjciymzu5lJXRoi06sjsYjXVel6g7PeUFh61nqLJh-HecwKoDqrOtSKgK5pOce4LG4eUq1fQ_IzQ49yUsUxIjCxuo397HIAq7c3Kws_p7iyKwYoUkUyW2ipfFDvRO8sY-3QxT0J5DOxmIabw37fbHYSLgG4valzDq-l6TlfMKkHbZ7iyHLRG_SkpBUC08RIzY5_u-8HESeiEHljBL6C68QU8RPPk1ZrMxImMHLvmwEaZBnKcafy5beQV6AbxrYSS2ihHHTKqAtNugIbGTAjg4oSnqK2TuU7CEnuMeFOqGisztK7Q3lwaTWB0gHMG18fPT0OGbsTiE8UTkm1HIXyaMpXwlget2gpNiXV2=w711-h947-no)

After the overall OD was turned to  .875, the first .625 of the part was turned to .4375.  I didn't show all the turning ops but it was all pretty straightforward.  There's a 1/4-20 tapped hole to. .375" depth and this pix shows chamfering the hole prior to tapping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yhxN040IRpMXAjRwl6bpVgEJ-q-b2PLOjk9R9IjsOtmazlAgBksKAcdrJ6KltFT-0xVxxe4U7BBspH6-2FNiDVVci4xoONbWUOGNyoBaRUAIoFevH7KgGlhbwXb0vOJiCHzgTu82xiXF1-6bcldpG6bmzSmIzckMY9Z_X7kTTPwP9pDDT_7o2RWKo1hFxzmBzv6Igz_tnYUiXVlYD1sUwXQdqVdUO9gt5-Wg1E2lWga8Bfdz6qfIVYEGwazeLnx9jRcNsA9a1O4Re-Nx_d9O8F0xhBZTst2RtX8KUv1NH0tzwbGpt2Gq5XqURog1DIslVyl_V8fzhAeODO-nr5T_ONf3vcmqK_oCkCi21gz10iRYMceTAIVHdofY34vVKrqoj263MRFjBBjg21WByR15X6p3bRHbSFCN1K4eu2bWbvvcuY-vLG8AIJGhrhXduYSgPZzIT-1YpaEXKr_XhuIc7MWZDdZIaB2tKEfojFjgrWmsBwdda7pLT91ILv5EqSM93AidXuPygXrWBEiJKP1cQWbwf8JxinlBrTM4dh33BOi8Fa-PGp0pV5aWAI-XKjw8zmsM8IT0JfRMCVP_pKmYZCM5JfbboRq638524XBnsOftTGjB-isocsTMSAJZxz1uReALAzficJIrEtYCU7pgUXnjT8KvSdVoNncENDE9_Rp9RQaihmajm7_X=w711-h947-no)

Then tapping 1/4-20.  I just rotated the 4J by hand and hand reversed out after the tap reached the required depth.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NMRC5AwF0yMQ3Iv1Md7Kwb5Op3-nFocvWKYhxY_FcMOP0jAqTYQLZTI07zxZI9Qh5zi9LLcSZVcDVVTTN6Ehs4asfmTpVVOv3wyXxhIHgpyH7u0_XA9Kyrs5iK9agD1ZFEIKQSF8FkLwuYBN7HXIxxhlWLFQRmLLR4YwicVaQqoy28h1E0uUrSS01bhICSYEwmnEZbqZwUdOQpCNj08wwR4I5VGEMIgHLAf07xXsrEGmmVHRkdiOYZPs8uwTKF96Cs4RbdxJg9maQ7-8pZ9YbOm3e_AjY0ykzuQSOao6us84jFJKEjCDAUgizXW-HzF9wCwtxbZvOfprxhQaoroxKIjxFqyp68RdU5YEipS14ibZck8xdEGeo4If9YSd5mpMkdX1p3QNUuWTsT6kUdjVPapqm89JGfZvo_WlqqhQwGfECmqLJV6qj3JpkL852V1XmF-Pg15W96U3DHKZvWjR_4-052LReK_PiR0v1Z6Jr8_O1I3JiqC8rXtdaGD6uswg7JccadCBQmpW94PPm6XfYPnOo4sTJ6mPnu6Ejg19CshO02JOpiJwIYmDfIHm0Kz0t1D8hh4hlHxFJlQ2ruNPmxFX7D2XUVSJ98xyfv1_jvQLdc08xwPMd3VuYhOyAxWI5ZlKydWOnVqScceZG0-GjVztNn6-GyKESAojBc7ko1QLeiQHT8dGCeDX=w711-h947-no)

Then I removed the 4J, installed the 5C collet setup and reversed the part and installed it in the collet.  Show is facing the .875" OD end to clean it up and bring the overall length of that aspect of the part to match the print.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6otb7K9z--aXqkXWGIkN2ij1L2doKz8oBnCSvINTL0QKhIagAzqtzmElnzRNP_TQ3yV3U_WIHiwHrIzvto28rCWYDa_OpPsZG0fUYyfxZesPi1DM43VYXK_sG22KdKs4g9tQ5ETAxm1Ob6f20XOLXkAL_AB1-RHcOMfTjpSFSwlzcNRfFw9EIfF94_F60AahrfaQdaUQGhj5GDEcQ_GiRj7b8G8Ac7FnJiFFlg688nQ1JhK5eqNH4z9-GB6kl06ocks7wxsWlzNc5fXf4JYXkzF5q7GLc3dJHZi3n9xT9Fhqg7CY7N_Qu3jsaMX_Ie1yOQITTjtDsz5hU2Gv7nKwmVjH0c6m6vEkcBppsI3UZGj9r6SdZKwQj-ZsvT3Brys5tEyTERaAvMCtHQNuFKaZamkM2hb_gUOHwN_KkBWlvevu8UxuHeIxvtgkBCvpGZfIw_4WKXp2VTcPBVz3-rDhju7BmSmhZxlR4U4gIgakgBKAckMX7tJyeBMpkw2nAHvwSeDtqKcFG7D-UmUrljIfCYYauwH6m30pnEgpFrcjZFkxUqCCoeWkRA5vtCHkmCUE7Cx6u-OeGubQMa4ey_kdnxXkfD-wlHgNW6-o8MTzj121kVj4WJ2InguikpG-ryoNsmlfy8_HIAzVcrW4QYm76kfPg0d_CkxOgKvnuGcvW3dCq_1LhvXtzkUr=w711-h947-no)

Then over to the mill.  I installed the part in a collet block and found the edges of the part.  Shown is that operation.  Notice that I put a work stop in place so I can removed and reinstall the collet block as necessary.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4Sw-XEhPa86Erwjt0zXTO-5QzQS1UFLBdvuL_-VeVnRGXxsq2gXVRhyJB2Spn6tiJYQbvKR67PO8wuTWhMm2wg7POXy5nV1lVd7tEXnP8l4IW9ZcI14pM0F6uDCf4yCRkFdh-o1lyMi28RCEmA-4niJXpL4kAJMXQeuN-OXjPDWumZopS6_fmDzZdrfXu4OTfCWrlZ8t-kwNMGjaxCkcnWPVyaZ4OmONPf7YCMiYi0NpyC-hL09187pEk8pjFRE0agVHv_IFpguq8m42s3GfebVcOZ3UdXwtuUCiKmkOObZkmSZHe9JocUQywAy4WvC_ZyJMzkUQYUe54uAKijW1eXZgt963q6GpNhg1M5Cpfl8PdFvqqmo-ZDgNfglYPRJxUqpSKnI7A5zcoYh2qYQlvM_l6A72AhevnrfD61dhGffWAm8-egiN158ZOFyRrpMF-Q4NOP3n-Yd0nkvTZt0gQCyl2040i_jiE11A6lFWjUKB1nGMwCVkpA5jXd4AP_vR3yNI-8gA8Q9H-1nAzXuRE6808L_LYOkPnC_xHn7dVvvawYoAL6mHDIgZpjyJJAm1PZLGQIEnAIFhznPTi8iIjZIw6dR1dR4RLSDMOvCBKz_Dovp_LNA4MeN5lrf6V87HLLdz0FhZXKjn1xVTMVi94ows8AaSzKS6zo_-UgdoIHqdvNbz9h7WmlIl=w711-h947-no)

Then milling the flats on the crosshead.  Used a 3/4" 4 flute HSS end mill running at about 1500 rpm dry. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1-askjRPuz5UpSEOjosxjJ5NGiYbF78PkzOL43L6n7nhuVpHzetF3GD2ylK9XUbNjVpGYw5CrgKf12TZAszv8kx4vBUB159NHmsYz4Vsw4B-p8S7lk06ks1oEIi5_qOOyPO_4A7H_AvyqDYGsg7zs4TVknnTaSQl1mwDyJsqtP284e52-w3G_3aYzm3Wwon2GoBnpSLLVtVY_tmPmeBvn4DZkhm_79MRSRPGfOZnPpLY_71AjHMDuZyfWUnzRaza49hCufDth1xFamgb-cqZjzmbbP4BSaMEE74FeeG3mk3hLmiMNY8ZYhVUtTdnerSXVmmuePvWZJ7qvmjfPi2YTBObwDE4BXgyzHUAKKEpgK25vY0Q4YNK22qBHYdXn9uN1ITA4DP3BZ6L94KCIU3Q9c9xRDUSI8_RSx7T52P38QL2eYblfm8hYPUqlEfll0T_9ltE1-CDIstqlkgRhdKP7y2g3x3H7y03htjw6iFvCJfsDrydkoZcHnESwAUp7Kd85qKgVSCDpIIuti3Y-iOOxtB5VEapvb7XegQwUegcUtjoOLHpih4sQNAUtTW9p6M663lQAQnb7YScOskqdNw_I0uevv5SFITc5AOdHybFyJTpX2UZPIeSpDmz9hIoc-TD3uBswJXRpvxDwWFXAUWixnuYIuYJjNrjwDbP-IXEE6mR94SaHbiQKJRE=w711-h947-no)

I removed the block from the mill and turned it so that the opposite side was up.  After facing it, shown is the spot-drilled location in the center of the flat with the thru-hole about to be drilled.  Drill was 23/64".
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nZOoNPMQse7JaOM1PlSoGQ1h029BJJfgNQdQC_GAAPNvUK_MK4Wbr5PclMAVqVOhke3_TGtZtGGLaXRp1JD1izUQPP9lzpNk5HPlLyrmfGvTrvQYlDDXRB7bZL8jltj7tsW_Trbv-NxlUTH8akFy0Dz1bm18Blp-5mE_eDO6VmPKH4wS0FUKgk0KkQyL1wHVs2x6xxefiJnzbwQG9siJcpdvxfDt-lxC4gyhvKxRN7N-9LAp3obiZMdljlRy4ovUWFa5F9SJ5sdVhD7uUXYXWaFQoLgroFQ40YFt4rUlJWPPak1X9XMIOgN12GdhBS4NnCyQ1r5IVShNhXdxcvdq7hXPvg4xwJp8U4DptLHRJqP0eXBiftab2xA3cgYpuPa-QfueQligjP1s2Gw2V8-TXNxYQgnquI4rPxXk8oKzX3an26KcoozmH67Yl_YB5_J-w5dAzAKvFw6pqFyXca0Ob6J17dj_V0gyzjXVgLKpbEfzF_bfk9CsqFTenRKAEGXbGGon3x5IHLMwJ2tdG7JbIW2SyXldVrOtPRHz-AoowfmnvbXwX-YQ6YlqabUowDKWzst_HUZaHh2hU-mUk_csC7BRrzHe4-WwBTDQutXYN82nURHGk_3wfYlCSBrNZ8LEm_BO2znkhRzRhUSz8o-1aKRAe2GywsAiOmlJfnUnimGXTHzET8BhiwbR=w711-h947-no)

Chamfering each side of the thru hole.  I missed the pix of reaming to .376, but I indeed do so!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XhKuJVrKrvpYdRDMPX0ogzKdCCUXbuJlXZizlrGsf4mFJc5JEmgn-r1D4Nlge6dVP-Ec2lcc8q1ba8T2azmtoilAE92X3TI5Ldh18lm22jckmuTRRAhMfEak64cs3jRF0XIuXU56zXSPwS3VXHdNQsCp0AqOZjBKKWYHtRo7HpMjUpBZe4s3iXEupNuotBEmyW_RcAkb8FRcG7Nv29FiIgdlnmxkJJ7kB87sVz7NCu9FEMNXzOhX0Rzi7IGqzvYTltZXEnIRFRN86p8emQoZRWyb_qlBuPs7hVwx1qtekJMAIIyebqDqKM-xP9kEoNQWRL44NilJjjz9PsSDjDZv897aq4nsg3f17c44tmnvimZm1Rn2RYTqOaKeEvggpajCgXx7E9OJF-Y80QPRRqEWkyun1ZTM9ScvRCBDyZtDPl4s5ZPUbwFGoc-_4ognfAwgdUgdPDI-Ekl_ajGxK9TlrRQCVn24JC1i2LKyxi0qarFzWTKge1PW_DOGAdD21XLdDxyKKJnkcdZ5HRSQ3DAPG_1XjMuMXR98VeV1C5cGcz6-QUpUt7ZOBXnWSgT4LlczOd-jIxVMAyfymKnpFnXN8_Fj349oxCl93LkqY7L2htewvXfigK5yhnm-sRPVCqL4kUYsUCrOhwsPwfU2aYxJPClSde8yKDjWAbxngLZGBAdNFgizpVqeEc_B=w711-h947-no)

The finished crosshead on the print.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lk7Oj_agjMHpgPhuUkFFT1_ks_fAvftooZAgBqxY8-ozqdBPuFbSrqYLWITPIyErQIpC3A0IMzVmgqNxsr_rHfUP3-aOkWcaHHw3cMI_CbzMylV0jaLseq4uD6wXn25bAaK8ytj9_mzTjZVFpsp-pirKNu8AkDbbsz0W-zasHPIkIeEv7D1uPOrgp_OT8zJC40Yh0IPMG6TyQ-25nx0OqJN2ICbgO0kGcENKQRklSDT88lfl5rKgsuLwH9UbDBP636DBYKyphzqzbzMkntERygKfoEpKrQ38-PCAnqJKF0thTRSUtGmAjfR-l2QIlXGMQnx4cCXBpdfCJzSNJy7RELEA3iovdEsaxXJerzfrXct9o5UKmQ9mJg7WgpLtIJ8D6zHKF2BL2n8j9ujJuWqEbv1rRSzAZl7mwv02aEIoXf4oW7wIZtKOgv4U4SP6PyWvN4Oo3GXI7KFile48TK9h9VU15eq-KufxqlP-BQNAowZNpg8KJF35dOT7ca-1gJ7d-t7vx8he9Km49fM1dwg0z6tzqOH1THXN-3nML9cvhTi9g5aj84jYIuXpXfdhTwqMOyveB4i-kUA4oZYcjIpskTGm3ZqBlaok4t4BXrNG-NG_LhiXWWUN_-4DecaHxnd6bC9j54dJ0qTSToH4snbf_xb695LZOGZY06U5siX0Tqxr0s0-55_6kGvP=w711-h947-no)

And finally a pix of the sub-assembly.  That is the crankshaft, flywheel, crosshead pin, crosshead, piston rod and piston.  And by some fairly major miracle, it all seemed to fit together!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o9IijFu_uNtnaiih_PXevXxhDr28bYdpCK6h4aTqCaPue1BOvHIK6_MUJVnXgJ9KXmXvQTqMfTa7RPorTx2vNBQvhfID6junWajwmwCgantZ36mWoILBELwKpQ5OPi_uY3s4E14AvZ3xWw3m_WutJ9d_YW5DT7H2tV2gLM5WGIIPs7DWiCV55QkUgPoe2JHNLA8vdloe4ZIY4qJk2wg97PVyYWavDGGcOqZNyD6dahB8yw_4GKWPEY-SrUm0EGP03Yv3oL_B7dbkJ4JWmBUokQcppTtNxPEnxWVVhozGYHj93slwNF0DAZlxH9Gnh0Of5XnMYde-uoJ0jvOAY3xnvhXQF0mu9hKry3bxkcpT6S3uwVGeXXWp-pZ4FEywzQk3jTx0X4D8xdNYv8CbknDR7s69POKWMtqVWTUPaWrJ9uEYoX4C1yRGj7iz1UjE12CfB3Q0jIHfFMNMnrUoJCIaxc_QSeHbC0lqrjCouVsFDGz-HDrNIx_MpT9vO76VIkKLf0BYJA5lHBsrcD6JgLHBXidKp5WVqWX2gFPolVP6QjlkcCjAKk8nAX_CrdPnnPQ2F_WGuwgs0Q7kQ4XW4E0vwI1PIV8_bRi1Cgu2xEEir-F8ggyOfxv27k-XtiTATvGbi7todlEFIy09b2OuVUnpV-Fx9u_NXeBzRQqsjWKcH2lp8FbpWplbNPzv=w1263-h947-no)

It ended up to be a pretty long day in the shop!  I can see the end getting nearer, hopefully it's more like a light at the end of a tunnel and not an oncoming train! 

I don't think I'm going to get any time in the shop tomorrow as I've got an out of down meeting and need to do some yard work as the weather around here finally is a bit drier. 

All for today then!

Enjoy.

Mike

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 12, 2018, 01:56:22 AM
What are you using in the chuck to prevent marks on the part?
I use soda or beer can material but I'm not happy with it. I can't seem to form them to prevent them from falling anytime I adjust the chuck.

I use some heavier gauge aluminum stock that my brother gave me as scrap.  I think it's 20g and it mics about .031 so very close to 1/32".  It's stiff enough that it doesn't seem to come off the chuck jaws too easily, but it isn't perfect as it does seem to move around a bit when tightening and loosening the jaws.  So i think that a bit thicker is better for this use.  I also use little pieces of that material for packing in the milling vise if needed and for other times I need to try to protect a surface.  It's not perfect as I notice slight marking on other aluminum pieces and on the brass I've been working with, although the marking isn't bad and seem to easily polish out.

FYI.
Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 12, 2018, 02:11:19 AM
Thanks.

Makes me wonder about soft jaws and how they would differ in preventing markings.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 12, 2018, 02:18:03 AM
Another nice day's work Mike. Should be getting close now!!

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 13, 2018, 02:58:15 AM
I was mostly out and about today but i did manage to complete one more part.    Up today was the top cylinder head, which is one of the more straightforward parts remaining. 

First was squaring up and bringing to dimension a piece of 3/8" Al bar stock.  I was using a 3/4" HSS 4 flute end mill running at about 1500 rpm.  That end mill  makes quick work of taking off stock!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RVVBcmsf4MUnvZroULAG0NkzatVgGb871WwRX-yipV8LEJoJOkMGfmkd4CHJL_NkZaZwGSzxPYBGxu7R7oiFlWJ85bPKF48Ph9hoSaYniaMtWHhCACNgYRyXnmMhzYfuGCUe8C2ymRLSwnfcaXmBpGFu3qcV5XDW8KV9wg8FSXzz0ftUV5RRN0P17ulDvHnT78_x4NnN09QRmpSysKF-lkh4mtzC-gwSg5LOWLibX_Z0H3Wu_Ucpm7Em23CYlqWD29RolpyzWkgWqhtZDMMrZ3aLdAebWUDo2cnXtSs42pkyDTCOxwxYhzGdovTUIe12UBs6lofUVrDHTmm-43XUDHnn7h4gue4LyURdvk3jmKWBmCHTnQFz2EIiOcLl88JeC4PbosZBNRRMKL8NYUvFgDrYiYTNG6cAk6-d3nijvGrDvfVGo9w82zfKPzGnM3ZBMx_qZL0S9XO-EL00D1I06xmfABqbZZJsxeGiN5ZoNSXN6r_rabRCCMLrExbAXNCcTxIr1fMUmLdvlHVLjKqi-jB4BdX90zULiJCbJU0PMfli-DiAB6tQ8imckkLtZOcmTGTZYpiDM5h7vk8piaaXvsXtXqldS7eNAb9hqUysUZ2wjqRb7Ug5LL_HB4nDGSxIfNl0dyZipVTspGuAiF08mJ5aPnw1W9maEqvtZsEYXLpmmcqdSonpGyFZ=w708-h943-no)

Then after edge finding, drilling the 4 clearance holes for the 10-32 shcs that will retain the cylinder head.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9on9kG4Q2D9lYpsoO_iz7hvXYq_LtI2r1rT4oaRpYcOXv6SBhKiue_pCKYtc34kl5X51wMGVZ4oByn23zMDzBllKNW3yfoOXGLiTxzzEMweTL3FQjC5Q-kRzLE_7yHMtKQZhalKfgVEIs-1yQvjbCGCcmNKiBMSt-lRCqBRuJMo_f6-UcS5vUfTr8E92rX63LUgIm13sJqFEVQkUrwC81euJ-ylU8WpbsQ2NQV93MS4hm8pIf5_11ln-geELD4TbFPDnAzj9jmlLAavEmM4q3IX_wVLro1VaDsc-IhhD9fITCPdDPhTqWUWZ1onZEf41RRa9cfEC4ZSqM0EsTv1yz-1zwyn-qYBOcvuFCyj9MhOF2bT8CKiIqvpKBnE3dBKhLSGYDrMquvj87FjFHoEwy1E3ZxpoyIXIBPGE4mktkm4z2tWoqtoYGTdGekomknUixZf8g4pQwsQKFEKQQGl179PhdU6gTTQvS3KWGFTJ37mAcmQF_Q5NZLu9CffXlQUjUzr6SvGaLhpW1ZdgM51DW1BZVjm-uYXSJXA3qDgMQ3vcTKwrP80IUOvmzpsFie7IvPZsK8eaZZjfplcwaX9PpyyRaWR1AQLOgAnD8cyLJ5UOliSUIORgdE9SYGdBix1elA_KV5L9P1nLA1BmERN-im9T2MkLVFeITRZF88LbCcOSTiJRC66AP0Dr=w708-h943-no)

I drilled a shallow center hole for assisting in centering up in the 4J on the lathe. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kMFsSbenMaw2kB0yssSlwEr6vt3ELLmo0DZgmCGZs5pwKl8sV4mM6--W5-4kX48Cu7ec5ExqFRCVHN1nydDXucN-pQaPpEhLtisNKKLUIlpfHrvPpkgYEYRO-kmWcDS6oc-6jrm1Fd6Obt3zZRZ00fMre8mDnT-1TKPpm-AeUQ_xmQKhekyV-q92BjH-HCcAyYg1YZmxLcMZXXae9k_GvgmdrXWmArzJbo4NsBtNIkHuIFbWpaHFCpTsK7PWHkoSH0dEdG3fcDxKcsVwa8Kz4cKL9Iz1s1hTrqXMCtMAIA2XILE_bJkbc32k-1ksmBiY4egDnB339yLhsjDxu8BIdCIbSO2xbpwfDZsSF3jEf8vcnCbgvoVCHcH_6nXvqdD63K_JsbAtAYQIY1qR3pCqcfiJcXAhhpzsDgV1T-FcSwN3-3nFhynkBieWalAjGFhvNa5fx5NETaENY0MiQFm25N6cPuLstGqg5TxkT0D84TNFcbv1sGiZu9z2ELFx6pY6EMWvjZK3CrqM4_Gz5gW-TZJShJSCRh09nLMu_-mC6GTdMniDbV551yx_-i4FhS1t40P-ognSNHtq7s-mOo9m19aWN0wLAX4toxMjBUAZKchCDaLQzZyF3by0Mudd0s2FGf0yFboeEYt0hX-JN1H6DnBle0RPRdCBMVyisdq2tm9gAoE5aCJoMHu-=w708-h943-no)

Mounting up the cylinder head in the 4J, using some parallels to hold the part square in the 4J and using the tailstock center to hold part in position and hopefully on center.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PX7l37PH9jwtu8_5JGNOJDaifq3gbX3OOG6XH-POoS9InK5DXdg0QmkMiVFFa7CrVCjDNXJI3PamGoExFYln40d-CydYceVMX8H9lafD95aDi3VvDzOJzpKZspN_Ys_27tq6AZF8u6linHZlCHFYEat0Dbw6rD8tVB0JaA2LAlNC1gIZtWeKKquZrfIHjBsXd6VWnpg_9aBqtKS-cydou9J7dX2mQUsM-jn96ZsX2zE5wsFFtyBm2Cna41vVUgijNoBa3LPQWOHySSq_xhiIDa3uKFOeM_pR7MdaCd6-ock_HopAeCUWjbsjAqncV4va2gd3zZr1gbJbH1avejSs-TFw3UgOTWs2x00RVDtyB3x2De3ydHaiCNfvWfNIDxgA09quLcGdAmbL9gMfF6CgOTwaSV8SqdFXqKDn0YDlRc6IQxOjIdKEutBcwBukPf0Zq9sShdHCWWNTXY52GjPgBIWoNzDJgsEs4Fh5Wq2rEaf1Jstzjnlbz6LyGFoAcBMoYZ7oTVXkz-hy3eoymrGGLcAnRLzaTzhOk4vsyTuZDFDlWF2fdnP7SCxICqpiiFdg-KvsfZyZj7G-qpmauRcxGHldeGGRaBlONarrQtdLv0-9EyFuXbSdRgXKFJmnpje0h7nMWPoCM_iz48LHzigTKELot27KuQP8-spFd0V4BUT0SIRc2dTsOlzl=w708-h943-no)

Verifying that the part is square and flat in the 4J.  It appeared to be with about .001 'wobble' in the face.   I decided that was more than good enough.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/18xy0XV2KFYKaKHG0R3nyB4pcMinykOb2pnS5fSGGJzUulEqy0GF8T0P-UEnZWo0E8jJhdevlQl-HBUCfx35qLHPURkZtsFL-01UL1zSPxAiHbn2mjwq1hcPEPvSZONHDS9mIber-iEt9yEz2ddDhnY76YZmGLNnY9_dmuUmOWkbCBooeXgifamlxLTfz8yLif11R2NYzHuaI4d_0TJgqCqvWRMtxTD2ZTJqPDJhtunUkMkQYwaJWES9ekapJvHhAuuJR3S9svavLWqyma5zKXs7KQF2gl_QFDFvu4HWXl9M9UEQLgOhZdVykCKJ1_axfEd1ne5F3Vjn1A4N0h2y9pi7Te_8_12YlQ_t1aVfsW6d2uc7nmQvwPXFCH87n2KBRnCClyk0ZftnHCp1B9k6sf08xkhhgtwj_txBx_CGDkLCoANJdQVH2q1ECeAwP9gD45mxO3WKdrKR7Qp7caNr2JJ4tVJFLZcvVVSTgtxm5j37yU64VjRIDaTP1RdOYn_Ybfvds9NcuWbPVgAquuNtMdoPRr6Ji4nxHKlXkHqNXcLWdDeOaLz_54TjDE1OsKTOmWE4eXUSZHEXPA-FLjrHQwrFtjLSGtIs9GNGusI1r4M6G0xELU7C7y0834aCVOZ6jC7Zeu6vbGk8Kifmt_PX_gSeFnmcEENFyDepz4LvMb8-MBnkay1FBO8D=w708-h943-no)

Then lightly skimming the surface to bring it to the required thickness.  I was VERY cautious during this op as the part certainly isn't gripped over much area by the 4J.  I think I took only .010 or .015 per pass. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/32fzUB5OMcWwFQcfDxqBAMU9gGuej1NsZh9hy5mDLTD6mrt-Bdw4VLDb-kGBLmxys6DDfsfsWJMKfdeG5cppsjWYA_J65pbWP1S9eqLS_qssLe9_35M6Lt2x9rvzQ2PmzRxUas11g5oGrB-aoYmX8rtrecpD1guPiEyGYREoO3zMEPWIC2zArYjXyFe2Rfzb7q9tDkFUFwlrFFoOK89vvQdgRB6gmc4Lw_lGtmayKj7o-VPLEDR22btIQlOGWO67IwzH78KAkXI3DFxiOq2V0sWOmtrpMtXzXtxVwxVTOASPUcQylsjebuNfBOu0GO-eLNulT4aU7W8_Gwl30OQp7HpCti5b82xOjbWU0qnbdzA-EX-lgqIfxwDKBNcoeSGRNXxhvThzSrrFrmBsxafsl6L-63MspwrGcn4fO3XDfTMFpu0tVKtWehbXEZ0lEUacrEB1Rolt98QhxWnkOjqIfERr_or2tHwtwZV9bCTK015guFVYVbj-3fTM29CzuIMbv5H6Ww8KPyPus_ommgTeRfz5ipYatRNN2wGb3nEBpghGVOv3dVcXlygEmP2aRNVlw1RC5ZDZ0H7dCt9mD-wZIDdiGXJljrLMItnSkdctx2dbQ4VjbLy-KgI5CfDvU30fMI9tvSDRiNgt12L1HVSWoHgkoVoH01STPqDoYg-v8_5I_D1oSkk2-5BL=w708-h943-no)

Then further reducing the thickness of the part so as to leave a center spigot of about .062 height above the .25 thickness of the part.  I turned that spigot about .007 under the ID of the cylinder head, just so there is a bit of wiggle room when assembling it to the cylinder.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kxu4HuiJfzvDosFylv5VJUsdDzdBT1FKifjhkE2FbEuX6OLnIG9JdMsih9f8stIUzpUqgzZ-uvdVeW34TmUYfGvHC1ttmi2CQ24tmlb96q0UvUC9vms5eFMcj7Ovkh52zo9R4dM9reRnGfUnsTIhpPiRsMUheQlYPaGDj1VG-7JIC3_lzqyRFydVuTTiEr_674zxjAyJrn6lBZnwBJFwRzMe92VuXAn1crKZuDDxAwvOyxw4yAoeXNTBTkw3zbsKcEUFrz7OaonKqGs-18kXmUijdupzi9GQjswFLYM5vjnrKnb1RWvI3eT5vz4FuOKuQ25YSBYKyD-5Zm-_QtCIyKqHSSv7WBT80krnpU0s-3VzMFviPuSWxZxRMtqa83Zdr_cKek26u7mt5P6vA4VTgV5TVTuQjM19PfxwLh6CTuUg4bcGh1EIhs8brJpFl1xpAk37rgH_H-zaORe8K92eJyEZXPEftmvbaoyhzYNimJg9x_5BfZzeR2wrD7_LY_zotKizeviuE7_oIaZnpJW4sJ0Tcqx3STuE9wpyHrDDvFTvcGjWlpS412_zrkXN0LNadfxrFBxt2eeFV-yumCuhlW1Du7wKlUH3n7IcR5YRl96zRpJw1Mgv56jCIrBB_IqcjUkbxQByuaPAIY4sRkh5rE0uWnj-Fdo5Kf2RPP9Dj1QjqE2aIA8mWgxb=w708-h943-no)

The finished part shown on the print.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VchbQHW7so3F3qplN4TzrhGHvsODNgHCtO4aHi9fWKfKTeQ2r5KrJCIDWWyRVJTsCU27U64yykcokJYeeqe3E2SG1VKhn28lXkOYQZ47-xq3hXyS5NhSRio1zYlWQlK5vgQToO8VC69oXdFNVYmk4G2FTRPwcnxGqM3uJ79rnfWOQEZPezsSZICi2wQ1Pl9F1nol2JixtYOvp-bAI-gMwCK3zx4Lsyjl_wUnIkh-5M3VLUFCQ00wZway9HKfce4C-3eUYvo39kD06JabHKtOQAYtwXaoNhnI633RLxPd_xrZyrITzHl9aOAQjqizc6VsbcJzKBA4pre-vyY9fs4M_nXGpZJtb869s2WZGKLNiG7NVmis-R8-bq41GVwXbcZPrQZ-kplSFUuQZ7NTL8JwT0uw1tLNCSxy3gsM2M1Fo-CVmNjTT3OiqWIV-2Z5sTePlZke5--jaLSincxbZBMvHGdHkOAo1VEE_Zm1F0aBpW4iEqc7vaw-0qwwoFE9fITYWq18odBl0Z2iOw5dmC7dyJjhThreWff8Gxs4AaAGVZADwfRk9TK0ICu_ttQ0kTBjMS5KLVbqmwlzn9q8YeNAUqJoAtD3vu4-1kQjqK3NyvOQoxltJNsgicfD8GHhaHwkBt8rEtN5DvGWCZyCkbc-zjpx36-8aQ-wESCKJ6w1BWGi0XfZporZz3RP=w708-h943-no)

And finally the cylinder head assembled on the cylinder.  It fits!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ln3vYLv8W5wd8yVoCyTzkok8M_QYwZqG_njyPny8MQzECcqZqspb5qBPky7iC0mfqxmoYCtLjRYbqCOyfsZjMxo5z-dcMJYmBLV0gBQuNX7HxKQv9lQsyXQlsM0wOt9arR6H_CHVfBwbaweoUoXzniF9u3I69lR23ZA5q2djePco-KatAQd-l3ZK0U6ivPv947FpAEqlJgYPYiWbwUyCsrvI_-Kf79EgrEc0uUsK_TcbYQoSZqXUBImSfZYikSte6mt1xNrWYe34CsDzbd4LasP9_BlMVvctKdoZnbvZMJO8olFkqHAGqNpGYiV7xhJUSrWq2NQB2GLpFFHN23ezGPbp8ORPR1pLh0Be04EbwT0KtEcnthp9VRM1FmZ9-ZZZBJe4ZwBIgBp6_jaP0FNDgcvFVE9eMgf9A_zKzRcyllDHAbeXvuEUQ7mIMUFWkoqWI6Gz3_rGPqaO4LGzpvqSvzGiRG0vJYGnU53-NArF39skTInC_6jQ8mEKIJ6iqfaLCDfX4_H4hH8ElH1pgcPtqlpDFlnIRD-4EvrrZ-g_KYkNM8Z-0Os5Lmb1DTNgQ8iIOYqw4nhh3d0kt8qOFiKW3JKf30kNdcWw0qSQJYwG47dNSYx0SLHDiIbH6ykbpkpWSRsMqZVHqMsQfpOox34yNTwRwfLgBosGhOqN1ZFkzcFOnDIMl0zfQSz5=w708-h943-no)

So all the remains are the hard bits.  I need to mill the slots on the reversing valve and mill the recess for the pivot bushing housing on the column.  Both require the rotary table.  I have to rig that up on the mill and it will be my first experience using the rotary table.  Then comes the trickiest part of all, the crosshead guide.  My plan is to silver solder a piece of bar stock on the end of a piece of DOM tubing and then true everything up in the lathe.  We'll see how it goes as there's lots of these anticipated ops that I've never done before.  I might be entertaining for everyone! 

i did have a couple of questions regarding the cylinder head and how I did things in the 4J.

- First, what's the actual purpose of the spigot?  Is is merely for alignment?  I just followed Elmer V's prints and scaled that feature appropriately, but for the life of me I can't figure out what it really does.  It can't be for compression as this is a steam or air powered engine.

- The operation in the 4J with very little surface to grip was a bit scary.  Is the way I did this op, the best way or is there another way?  How deep a cut to most people take with stock mounted in this fashion.  If the part was flat, i'd have just done it in the mill.   

- Since I was worried about the part slipping I didn't use my AL jaw protectors and hence got some markings on the part.  I did a bit of sanding and got rig some some of the marking but not all.  What's the best way to handle the marking issue?  Would it be possible to use superglue and maybe glue some think shim stock on each side and then remove the shim stock after the op is completed?  Is there any way to cover up these sorts of marks with any sort of filler if the part isn't to be painted?  Or do you just have to sand and polish the marks away?   Advise is appreciated.

All for today.   I need to make a run to one of the local welding shops to pick up some silver solder and flux but I hope to spend some more time tomorrow getting a bit more done.

Enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on September 13, 2018, 03:25:39 AM
Some small pieces of aluminum stock, maybe 1/16" thick would have worked for pads between your part and the jaws. would not worry to much about slipping. No hurry, just take light cuts to suit the situation.

All looks good to me.   :ThumbsUp: Nice work !
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 14, 2018, 10:56:32 PM
Turns out that I didn't have nearly as much time in the shop today as I had hoped.  Part of it was bits of business that I had to take care of and part of it was a couple of parts runs getting various springs, washers and fasteners in order to be able to assemble this engine.    In any case, I decided to rig up my rotary table and do the recess on the column.  I had previously completed all the other ops on this piece but couldn't do this operation on the mill with a boring head nor would it fit in my 4 jaw given the large amount of offset to this location.  I do have a faceplate for my lathe but I currently lack the various fasteners and hold-downs required for it.  Hence I decided to try it on the rotary table.

I didn't show the setup of the rotary table, but I did get it centered under the spindle using a DTI and then clamped down the part using the typical hardware.  This is a 6" table that uses 7/16" T-slot nuts and 3/8-16 fasteners.  I spent a fair bit of time getting the work centered up under the spindle and since the rotary table was centered, I figured it should all come out ok.   

Shown is one of the intermediate passes.   The end mill is a 1/2 4 flute and the recess is to be 1.0" ID.  So I simply moved over .251 on X (.25" radius plus 1/2 the diameter of the end mill) and plunged in about .025 per pass and rotated the table 360 degrees.  I went just slightly over on the ID so the mating part would clear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AGyOgwis7ZAyQdI-NbRyCXLTWuvVuO26fMivpezmtc-c7msYg4qGxoR8DyZ_3Oh0Nz7PLNqYPVfF5IrPJv-dsrfKl55N1WziKaHpn6hIB5C_vVXmKXQdhI12K1IsZ7UIOX3x36c-j--mynrlLTKr8m9K1rbSIOR2W9oNJVyF32odthPMwjyqEXj--_baC7FFyM9Jzex2DFkr-i6s2kp20QUvauJh1RVBHK6PeEy5sdPk7n7FmskgPX642g3dadQLVvb8KCt4Qm9PDnjftQzO8V46ACJgpe5va8TWLviKw6HbPvBGsWw2XUSMO5rhZj_kOd9OjhcV_Yd5yttG7w5nUsiPHUA0GaYAobgnpvcUJghQdEWFUuq0apO8tfO4KDTIli8oFh6-mgby7yRomshzbHcHrbWVV6hNwHojYaT3KIpFuYzXqtjW8NUaKMpR8NyKD8II3gzUi4LIYtbh74IB_qn2HklSWjqV7Gjp9_KEkc-w2hQ1NMsV7PkA-wKShsuodIce249ybGvcoi4nZi8Rf-ALFRI1WoZytqyC0_QrpdrbBNjd29dDd0TA-MDdxhDS5jY_upXli-yDsuxm8tqteCmhN4vtSECBGMstGVk08TVY_th0DJCk1nEUEJOqcYGkDLmo6TM5EiVEK_84abL8M5xQtUNjj3sjUYwWfEw6do0shFlYBc9jGBNL=w708-h943-no)

Finished part on the print.  I almost made a tragic mistake by grabbing the wrong handle on the lathe and almost turning it! 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pw9b4pG8uG5-evqsOrwJGsipsniBmFfgRKBhocwPdHm_v1XFhofe5LzM-gI9uxwWYegKHRsZ8zee97lB1WkKQlXCcsEbxGQuJ5eUAi3r7qSHrhzCyZSLywHAMJII975A2kK76D8mAEHq0tk5i1vGylMf5mWqqIBHvt9EKoP8vvM3E7CDMrA0uyHg_H2IOZiX5PjzRduX9wHdkhKcKHCFI8HLshD3HwIDkArwhPJOufE9kRLA0RFCJzzhzZWbTEw4iRIXln0ooLIYhGd3tAQD4BFRCtHdGsFgnf0Y3H9loQf_o5jf591y_Iq4b5V1YvifIlawxgF2jEdkYb6EVJlMoTBjeCAL-8i3ERum4UPUzKCfgh8e-ENkaMIOKp60DnN8VplM3a4tA74kSVLpR3lfbjbiPpdF2HfXS6yx_QXyKMaHXnZhQMnpC7nR7tecPZz3N4d_RGXtN8ztr4p84sTVpTBOAHiRud4h8sI1zlBlPGvgSgx03lDIIfO6hzckY-JUivYtPXEtzel0Rkwhdad16vNYXHk5IUOox59j02AJ3rFdF1aCv8beSTFz1Qlc9fxh3mVNeSD6qnitQ8w4Raxw41khC2cw3QbzSlWfza9HhTZfqu3k6prXeFZLOuXoGzKo-lLOjQs28csPMGHzcmOUPx8yS8K7j62-yPwwjMm-UpzOIBe5TVyScFQ=w708-h943-no)

Part shown assembled with matching pivot bushing housing.  I need to very slightly skim the pivot bushing housing to recess it ever so slightly under the surface of the column.  I hope to do that tomorrow on the lathe.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yZJ_SMwwgBZQ68H3NhVvmw6F58QhpngIal5kbSb_KmN6foam2F6ioU0x4CMnRxpl-RkaZb1bPaJR9RhlxbNpxAoLsCm3F8OzYuLfOaybiZCZRczqvK0Jwi-IsbpVUm9HTVeP4GFhZUWTulwx5OoG_-bk4kxnMBBOpVoMK8d7TlINQXI6GJFtZis6tGuIVJ3cpGAOXhw10HavtAJ4-X1DpSIXGcKsZ2QrsX8_v3KAwS_om5V8tA9wm01wamJ3kkEqRjO9_A9W-mJTZIQDoiTzLqcdFxWWDUqdRs8VuzC4HgMl3T58VUHjAFeBMbiS3f-V3H-0kSdUms0c5UQxyfhAkah_PhVxyz_n3mXzl74REnzrwgI2bMUoue19Ufb2hfieQshelxnaZH-YsEEIoo74Q5YslPJtMZHPOqw1vI5HuMjdv5wBrwMxnzXuQzxdUHKTGkB96V3ANr82r9v_U5Ki2oUydfmtMpu_ctxgmEZWJgJRW_TRzrU7XNTRqckMEYg-_BidI6B8ehUSpFg1JUSjvU7zZs0LHyzL3ZelHgov3uqFBlVE_EaB-a5C278UT6iWS9BN8HmqhWG2R1jRPduYVkufYYL1d5pnWlAVhlQ1EVtEcB0y9ji2rC_gdjYkAalCP3sMmnEKlOwVUZcPsjyCk1nBRMnzNyprOhiN67HpZIfeYWaz-6MWgoKg=w708-h943-no)

And finally a pix of the cylinder, reversing valve, valve nut, and pivot nut all assembled.  The springs are missing at this point.  But everything went together as hoped!  You can certainly start to get a sense of the overall appearance of the to-be-completed engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gz2O9FjP7DqfRJIVdOqT16igSxHOSsSe8nDCb9u2slj1-gUpgSFSDUcuXp3ye1WKkXt_SDHe8fuzx_hAKpWVepHvQnz1l4oYcIiXOR0Cz-n33aFGFLxwwa98VHdQfoOgTC4wJXU7BM40Y8xha-DmjFQbo5V9O6uLAfJzuL2nyNN_-5Uk7YcwUqhlRdGmQfjKgvX-Yz5fAqur9Nj9zwKmrkdzo6aqOb_nasc5KwuaNzvEJzejUlU93N0DYDu0pOBq5_m4fpyOHXYcX2og0UYWhOdYHG0ttWczC4aTlzKdOqpdbFaFtDfipi86nzEmg3SnfJlWRuyfGOALyBvIfR5kGuTJiXIaCj-LOS4Kx7ie5fNsqtd9Z7se4FOf9YRUj1jqmrM6jiBq5H0qi7OtFcY646B8d9Z2DLmgGM45iS8UXrxOLogBFkFQZ_-pnvllRx5ldWxpVCnYUD7YONO3gINa-EKsHrICRgaPkPPKAQR83Ic3kSnAWD0h-uzyU2Wj8DscwRYfRTP8FFnIgrsupT7nJaOxnzqsrPcrQhNRC8jdZaM1Iu338nfr0QL3-IKXDa5IU5ZAuXy90r8BkVqP9MjkCcnhCmlzmW_pFLySHsFDY-6IX_5O5PA5q_-YBJhzHMETaQWpN4hs3fTgU16OjxubvSj5wfXEVrq4XLxRUs57wpB5e3HDlQ0mi_Ek=w708-h943-no)

I found a couple of springs here locally and one of them will certainly work ok, I think.  The other one seems a little weak, so I may have to order a different one from McMaster- Carr.  I'll probably try to use what i have first though. 

Also, just rotating the pieces by hand proved that I'll need to lap the column on both sides and the lap the cylinder face and reversing valve.  At present, it feels a bit rough although the machined surfaces are pretty good. 

Tomorrow, I hope to mill the air passage slots on the reversing valve.  in these pix, the air passages on the valve are missing.  That will be another setup on the rotary table and I'll need to it a bit differently in order to hold the valve and to be able to get a 3/16 end mill to the surface of it.  Then starts the hardest part, the dreaded crosshead guide.  That part has a number of tricky bits associated with it, including some silver soldering.

All for today.

Enjoy!

Mike

Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 14, 2018, 11:36:18 PM
I almost made a tragic mistake by grabbing the wrong handle on the lathe and almost turning it! 

Usually causes a quick in-drawn breath (i.e. gasp).
In my case not always a bad thing as I find myself sometimes holding my breath.  :lolb:

Excellent work!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 15, 2018, 12:11:45 AM
Nice work Mike. As for the marks from the 4 jaw shims would help, but u usually leave parts oversized by enough to sand the jaw marks away. Another thing you can do do is reverse the jaws if possible. That gives you a backstop to chuck against to avoid the use of parallels, though I have done that too if no other option.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 16, 2018, 01:21:50 AM
Nice work Mike. As for the marks from the 4 jaw shims would help, but u usually leave parts oversized by enough to sand the jaw marks away. Another thing you can do do is reverse the jaws if possible. That gives you a backstop to chuck against to avoid the use of parallels, though I have done that too if no other option.

Bill

Bill, thanks for the tip!  I've concluded that leaving the parts a bit oversize to allow for some sanding after the machining operations are done is a really good thing.  I'll try to remember to do that.  I'm bad about trying to get the part(s) to the exact dimension and for parts requiring a good surface for sealing or for appearance, a little larger is better!

Again, thanks.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 16, 2018, 01:39:23 AM
Today again proved to allow less time in the shop than I would have liked, as some old friends dropped by.  They are also retired and are in the process of touring the USA via travel trailer.  We knew them from overseas and very much like them, have seen the world outside of the US, but not spent time traveling inside the US.  My wife and I want to do some of that also!

Anyway, on to today's work.  I did the other operation that required the rotary table, that being cutting the air passage slots in the reversing valve.

The first pix shows the setup.  I have a tooling plate for my 6" rotary table that's 10" in diameter and I thought that the setup might be a little easier even though the plate is much larger than actually required.  It all worked out pretty well and certainly clamping the part down is a bit easier as there's a lot more places for hold-down bolts vs the bare rotary table with just 4 t-slots.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qO003igPYa0M7oP2Iw5AW2HMQrcPicjUilS2mmnSCrDLQ0dZLIMX_ANbxBwSlUQBriXgAlZYp5-v2Of3k6l5J9pv1lMYO-vEyf2H4YFk9CxWAXdLEiQAUcHaFCpOv-6rR-dadi7FdKSMFF9VOiAraJjFj0v2Z-RHi9dycC8qBTma7AR9ft7XPBnCP122Jiq4Ptyt9jPKT16cP_gdGoHdRw37LUERpyD5pUOn3z92ZzciCnOUrrxU0y8e4Zz1tmfJy6OTbmdrwunEi1Y8S495pk7kTAQD_VJYy6GMsFvtWn2bOq1tPSbnFd9ZH1H-BNLKaWHcnmElKvD749Opavx60bp3QtUIKusXopPLniy8Jfd02nQbKbrXwMV2hbSgwe5k4S2yFCo-_tukydsgNGMhQmGbiRRA93DXzDdqA7oCzMV9CzBa2urEDF3kiKmuD5CiYc_3jbXpLGwUMUsCnRkplMowHplISOiX9u58qPGHSeGuJCJ1ExjmnlaSrakV_A7MOvdbl8wrmOR3IvGxqTTdYLnenohb_y2UQDNLHwPlRuc8rw_ZbP3FidZFpfMT3LOsIceMrsTfZSN9I7gAQU7Ww8uGDdSJaUnGECJx0ce5fyVX-4mgfYqH9Zl443ajho2KikSIUQGAJfpFVb0MVHzi_mU5xP9b-hP17oi0zOq-hswuH7A20tt8ENEy=w711-h947-no)

The next pix showed how I performed the operation.  After getting the rotary table, plate, and part zeroed under the spindle, I offset in the X axis +.625.  Then I hand the rotary table setup to zero degrees and had the handle threaded hole aligned to zero degrees also.  Then I simply rotated from 315 to 45 on the table. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JGpOrhV45GOQNkV88YP_P7wXUbqx5vIKNCl0IhB3ai9wIyRgXo0W0THLOhThKKOjZIpkTxmEoyVBiCzjM1ZYu002xAnu2rimVquRTVxeirVlHdMdEFE9otNnf_vKNzlbWTrXiLoc-QcOzVi2CTwo9fFjS5zBLuSz4CcSzAVIa-Bxxksk6569v1PGGT-Y8OUZzRKkO6z7jbBw6XnmdPlSLAey1bRMS8KP-FUcy5m9Uon2DMqLi3BW04jXlOuOzLM5M92clbKNYjsM4Vs_pAETakfsDbdCGOrBe0IirWL-VrSjz19Yul_SG_j-UXWdYnNheay5WaZfJOd4Pjn_MHw-eyItFCq5oqXiud5bFIIN3iDIGN3ghoKuBrtIFKXeshTzL2pkQ9Par8ktpqaIsOQged9JtAMg61iDPiZWmHDB3o0rHGFbzZZ1pWfo0RGMN9PQ_b0BY0i_xDsRvyZm2MgiCYiRgJ0isAI-n7K5Sxi4dO6EoehYUyzQ7Jqib0jKTWEk_FsMPy3i-EhE7LieGHwPmIcNro5LyUmN9eWdK-Q2kOJOtU7w0sbICy3ATLYEQ4uw3-E6pAD3ewVMUKlV8bCfIKi8SMKxeiYznEAKwQy5tyAaqXg5fYG2M7Le8WUWqUt1GX6L399exBha5SeZ3F9J8D6zvD0MCrH0ZkQ19YisJkJBFCZdzd0uRgYB=w711-h947-no)

That's a 3/16" 2 flat HSS end mill and I plunged in .050" at a time and rotated the part thru the arc.  I went to a depth of .1875  This pix shows one of the slots in progress.  The brass cuts extremely easily so no issues with this op.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ek64PjFDk54db8ImlpegRX1P4fepvsbLA0kDUssWogVeEkmtRNAHi24CtPu-Gi4nS9r0j2KA3l_FWJBT2C-7tOfdBRRK05SZOjbSxZTsgwWfnvSEbAQS3W6Xsa5TudjjYnpkRwBh-oZYKjyAusTlvqQR3g-sDAC-GnqH-j4_XALzWzYafSVVoKSGzJ7L3cNGqOpE0PJZ7Glg4Hz8X40d6cCB0s4eAmW7cHlCdpetskttMOVyUNpy8STJI7uneKXss0TuDpbrA_PZ0LQt-N6j8sxDrKAem732i3f30Y8yvcFHUgVYP1xa8hpv1pB0X8db6Wmu82i5KJ-QyJa8wvkw9R88VhsHnUwzCDq9lDAI2zoGvziPm_iXExlx4ARmB_KI8x6ls1m9-Yepd4uMJ4hpKQjpZKNy21icKqkNTUy9b7tKHMnDZmKRZesZhkptPwMbZftFsrrJ0yfAQ1Nof85hL87draLIBUOTFrGyr89O68nmzD0zy-0Rg4cdFvDfewen6ydGFPCSHw10gXwA9AD9AV51h5sEKZlVeJ1vS88bWipvtOaIT5I3gZWepoO_5f6Yk3gGNmIHNUhdWrPDIsqXPGi6tgUocex2s89JsjLHm-e7uQ8iusuZQR75MIcXshxCZ_X1Hkw-yQ6B6DN8Jdk7UzPo71zQ1XnHIj_0EsHbOXYlIHMZKSWFoo90=w711-h947-no)

Closeup of setting up for the 2nd slot. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lFeZYMCTTQ9Syh9q0byXKcH8RwBCh-tdy5qZcv2YJtSPk_vgtE0SqQvfjcOjrT5PaP1WMJJGheCL8eFR02uXfKqog2XNwqAveCzHmn8Ebh4VpP6pkylVugQV-KozqhJx0_maHr9ncUmYGOPYAVKjU9uylerebnsjIShWTqQWjM-QW69aPCN7Vrru9YvByaiRQNhx5DieNRCyjFFyQEZNFcQI1vvqcD1Cp43xaMoL8vEO-Yx9c2TBlOacoaOFyjQrc1HQmdIKT49gT6ijOmQexnHpcOLGazUOomiRzqR44wQnouh1GylaP9RJe5oqbkqZebiXhci33PFRPP6_nrioodRRLchg3jV01SFmkxY0pa0QaPs2IfW-olkmibQTgZomJUYHgVWeZKbJ9sxSM03IssIk0EGycJURKlSMHgNy4mu4pbymX428l3cRydGwLGremmqrQQiHRIbvIqyGBjML0dIcaXE7bQJq7pbIz8KhcCOW4ujzJ4fwxdL0s8YcPY5mUGOssJkVeLlioc3vfiSVGJ5BD6TgxVH3qPBRIhuKiChaV7innDtUlg2To-Es4MOfKIIR3giFssY_ZHuJqQDW4s9HJ2wyQ1nwG2dlchJYq_iHnoJLxuZTHaLzZ5OCaqmI73gqKuCaEv3phnTCjeEDrfVCJcmFXxheK1gAAmqduTSLyFzjCKFpxR2L=w711-h947-no)

Showing offsetting in the X axis by -.0625 which positioned the part for cutting the second slot. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_dxhPNsQAHYSMKfarxYe6sm-fcw567QPzZ_5XSeqMsXdZHqWekQJRMIEEPGUSj9TYgzlCqIRgTEpi6RV2Qy2XHzCYhLxy7_LJfV_2ZTmnU-OX6KmFTxrucBZtiwgh9ClIY977QK5X696bPc7QDHVCz3iVRtObTd_66xtIodsTJoz0Evq-o3bN8fDwQy5f0sCm3WMPJTkQwwNVwpvt6oj7U4Pe4_XPI_gW9r2UB71OkJp4QFlUHzkfcx5tERAEGGu3L6vQS_C9r0AS2AtRraMz90khAJOm_vcQhifiv2lfE3QzsoUZqnL4pNc8D8mJNwvy7iyFgM4Kp7H7ikVXBlE9yZSTa1EVvSyj5BB1rlgtaUh19hhZXdbZdopxV_HX6eRfSuDDnU-pDBfHPH7ApIJvIZRTX64o3dSGbEgucjjzK7cphSgZRNKUW7471KF45TF0tnZ4oaHYYecJq8vqrh1eHSXX6gd0AnwEUmDy19Txn61xWNpyo0YFjyUEAD3KjwBYaVIvc2VxGKZWdVFFH-1Al3VD4swda1nW7MkY9G_E0fQ1RoMu2mp0DfE2ABUuQFj5Wah052mCnKzvzAX9EWBd72AKVsZiKz5N4Z_HAtG9uLz4D6KFrSzUytXQY0DODpg4SoIJfcVccL5PoEm7eLYFnLnFTvXNkzK9gGohGnYbPcNlS0xgo8csfiK=w711-h947-no)

And finally the finished reversing valve on the print shown with the handle assembly installed. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LPPnmuSHdfzDfCMbdBJ9whifEwy4nSZITYWnKMVnfZIqRxjxf7zJ_NvRRfx1-8gLFZJGAk4rRFpi672tx36xv6UfqsNU-wOPz-LlMLm0V5o9h89DAA25bOxc7N6Il70ZLOsAbzOjE3qkvplZ3nLrusVr5_5YZQDNwXx48gq1sNgg741Z3jqs8Io35xnf_aWxKoaEolId7_sbo5muNnTJjAr6voPxa9TqKSC7u1sJG5MKt8UXAX7Pd4nnxytIVVzKNNZywddwIEv29K0oPwdONEonMySLfbmHhJsQIkflw4udwlfNoqABIGeY98as7ta_-usq22Ub7mIKs4qGpXUpyFVKWQt29hZdz2oL5IRZe0NaFUVUgItJBsW4AMukX6o3QAOkwxX_F_lcKyMG2YMsndPNgaX2j4BUa2jUie1UzIKCysb4sJw_wtqywzNt0I_BTIISke69Gg8QwhDErh9TIW1BitY5XcN5gfT0Dy-OKya2nTC5LjzySvEcKOwvHoahOo4w-_yKTACuAhoUge8ubH70NejkqZ8PiARdbc3xQb0ZRKcfaoKEUM5QykrbLDTaefvKviOD__fgd3ezesJSvj3U2IiWghC7c1To_sLAWDfSBQFOiEkNk_fF9mlbpQB8IzpOSjJeXGNcWy4agy_NZkD5TiV2HZsldMrnRoW_4Y4oCDSYf0Ed5Chy=w1263-h947-no)

All for today.  Tomorrow I hope to start with the last part for the engine, that being the dreaded crosshead guide.  I think I've thought through how to do it but I may have to modify the drawing as I'm not sure I can built it as shown.  But we'll find out tomorrow, or at least get a good start on finding out!

All for now.

Enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 16, 2018, 11:39:10 PM
I had a good amount of time in the shop today and started on the most difficult part of this engine, the crosshead guide.  I'm going to break this into 2 parts as I got thru arguably the more difficult part today and need to wait a bit until i start back on the machining ops.  You'll see why shortly!

Starting with the material.  It sure doesn't resemble a crosshead guide at this point, but you have to start somewhere!  The bar stock is .5 x 2.25" 1018 and the tubing is A513 DOM  1.125" x 0.156" x 0.813"
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cgLcxlUnRZW471MMNU9bzIFevrsFkBF2vOlP-isdj64dccE1_DwxcfYKgKHbnMBflOLzkP52LeUQP584vxNKRcqjho3bFiq38RvcMzSwJ2LLpPGcMmcKUJed6RCq-b-Ph2eQOPJ-l4B3xDc3Fl5A_mXwFCrcIxAFxb1iZoqLRJfmgbQBviWN6BnSs8j-ceHLz7noBPCaXCvoaPw8TZkRltnVBWhLgY3GmQaboVNwXZuwQqdmWVn8oLgzaq6Tb7atH3bPbl3V3oMkT-fvojBtAk82P_WuDRlR2VzfcR4pcWQnNrp_08VQYziH0RkcEtjJUdzNkuwJXGC3ux54UYA-b1aKWXGoQ2jdnFg4FuYqPbTkd7-XdL686egvNeJksnv7ZR4p39QS9sN9-UiEnotw1Nu_Ll0TsgQr6GMFajF_gT5fOh8JOFOlUsRfPPPWWNmzXUBtkrmKdQsjYZjKdtGOhPqdyDUm53KqqwBULKV8un2WuGQgsUvRY63ihUZy1pRAbGiVfH1BpxytnQU3-VWTeTCLftl3j3wQzYoAKtdvk6HkBnvGHLKzXPHGzNkTSIXpUqDTymhlwfWJqMZs3azIncAxosQT3ik6tOM431TlDsmdxYVHYUuZyvH2D33NPpxGYjExZu1FTzeYATrTfAx1Mrx5B_9ABB42ho6scOe_-u5JDaCpHS-o-kBp=w711-h947-no)

After cutting off a piece of the bar stock, I took it to 2 x 2 in the mill and then drilled the clearance holes for the 10-32 shcs's and a center hole.  I enlarged it with a 3/8" drill and then a 3/4" drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/skxSv46BZ_nIOiOxYrdA7zjUN8qytANuPqmGb3viFBjW0LJRoSsnvYu8RXh-my5Y3-urK1xhwiVkxafX8wIm1DQ_WXMxbOjRNZJIHbE1dwuog7Z3hOGH7NVKsik7GFJpRSnQCVI4zo6jW9v5q75Kd_KzSKe2AHi2FLHx8-WDcLObyu3-kDBRO_Z2pFEx4vUE7CfSHg3F3cVAzeEMrZZMKUHwiGHXkTd8qtL-Dhdd0fcozU-n4f2pBC9zI63cyeSmERsdMDmSEKMGoQfT4GlYpCFW3blZA2kTT-IRo-JmoFAVmJlz0QJUHdMTXMLwfl0LmZ3CnM-f9DWOG2aU10-oDCA5UBUSnKYpezEMOxIPxTlBI9KEg4Sy0zrXwWPBuMaQyWX3ASj1DaN9hhjFh6ArEyArMZOQFmqI1gD24G0TisTkxXGDDcz2ze0d-QIfNKJsUWQ2rDqSPRRNh2qhmM5GhNB3xhEGHWb86yIEfr39Hfe-qf3inE1_IlOGdaLiFxEHGe6pgevQCCMxkqOH-kLlyU-_erPE0JgDEBqSSsm5gBWIsMSfuWUPnqJ9npn8uuUoVqAFTnhakP9pXY7NCDK27Uw5FRDRycF2VE5hETgyj2uJDC70Tf3TO7s24Vbir3GQzq2elPFFHqPHTCvC7mXGQ-9rWA55My-C5H9iK3DWV3nodXzbuxeeTsXc=w711-h947-no)

Then I bored it out to about .80 ID just so it would be smooth and true.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jL046S62fBnELKqKt_LEoRT_S7RYg4VFcHjH-b9m-fQu1gwiKjMjUcTugfPNjzO6JrRT-7B1_ptCACvKsNHi1me-OTvuE9EJS-KyNTYhRZoxnPPC2UI8I0smnIfIyNF9UKvhSyscpdJl5TCRJU4anJixXcRUiDmqoFL2h0-iV4YLPSPu8gaGee1ide8G7ruXThwez4PDwBGsx6qD5GbZ5Edcfh2PTH7lM5HT438K51ANTF3IlPBJ1iKf56pnY0ON9N9Jr0WRYDqeDYHX0AchC2qH9XdwCBLofORMu_30CMUd1H6zdqAb8NyWwDUzT71fg7KfEo_R7JqbHvnR17y4RdThNz5oyBpFDbmBVqlIKE1YU3CDxxcwIeY3qBCK2P2tNdYxACWZROsPOmX66RT58pkNPzN5Z3tvX4ml0dxjZh5r4pzmYP1lQE7OLKSQCuhLstsP2vcxclTLfsJMoG_xAGXr0pM2G0olK3U2tyGRAwOlgMTRASFgqMl3yWZPuY-lmBGKs41-3kjvdy4Q63HtTZ7DGdwb-RkceJI6Xlv2j-lg3DAwp-8KH7ISAa2yMPMoUUNUnGd9uYQb5EQkJ86HQW3h9VUZJwqcfioaYAiobOqJJoDp6eXrHTGkFHqD4pUxQW35Scswsj28scI4WiA0Ib8XzkIKdoL86NIaO3zVYTVg2riBmUT7U7Nh=w711-h947-no)

Then over to the lathe, mounting the part up in the 4J and getting it on center using the DTI. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XqV812jSN9xtVpIik-CCoAYSHxjbisGqrNLzs3fLAzSH00wagiZF-mLr2lyMvrlY-azTEw64S5QGpmgvmnVhSZlZRUWBApg3bkOxFbwRTXUrMyI8yF4EA3bT8NbOI873-6ZzMu8AldwM98C11HYehjd6Frh-7Cdg0lAw_MqGagijnunwFbHz9ZtZEtWHYXf26hgXkRI7RC-dsj777ExJXXOf0oN6TM1bKuhBFT4st4XbTQCArMJBjhCObbTxcy30eJIjGGID-yRWpEsN8zcVscsPD4iYm-WbxotdXmPDI0q-Iav5hQTzEiBTqnmqEoZ-0KGodsHhCBMNNDFTMk8PGVFOxyCO30r2-aSI6VBEiIcn3oOO48d0xUnDnwiIgvREhlOY-Ney8kZKqtxc_Up159c7iE76SeNHT77EWK6II_AkIU28bXGJtrrRKX5OyXvsc6gR7wZ2RQS45aDGEaJ2OEk8FCFDm62Nqr7tqvaTQ8XVUm67K_wbNxzlx_0BgxvLIsJYJocrpqPDu4CIXRb0geT57gIFYyfK5STg5TMUZh1fo4imT-3A9BuBAclf-gdPIHqVf7f3SwaEnhwrWTxH7BLJH65FqSrkMcK7mp76DVipZTlFuCqnqbgp3g5z-h45xg3yY7bxz323lcktWx6SrccoViV8oCkuro1WgiiNoLQdIzZ7ztHSYNvH=w711-h947-no)

Making sure the face was running true also.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/daXMoe0ZrysDXxChMaigmcs8Z3BqAsk2lXzi0saS_c0qUMBcvsSivOy2pov5yHDiJiISACjHrlnNkF80gKSIyEhi-B3Evdbr-Wsarlf_BbnrFs9ITTkeH6sxY5PglIphiymjScgqcA0T7XlaFJ9C3sSIT3X8ovErq_EG9K3BfIgSvMfcEcC2wLNpJUlUt9CF8Vb7RJUcmCS1KVIROUJ7USrA3EXQ4mNdhAXlfSiF6JOFwlxI3D6bvtFUhkpVeLi_k0ynMlfau6mqKifcPRWHN0DmBNO10w4oK5x2wbiNXRRG-RfT0kzUsF9seA76zqZufALPVNqB3Az7q6JlJBo06EUzcLJhEnCaVXagXZD0C1_q-CHDgrZDDuZf-enV40p2NrATAv1xXM8amnRYztNumXOBYyRXxZyQcGH8jJHabM7zPyXE_bd0z20sXXyjTpmy8GBentx1CN2UFw1W1OzWCr7OdEh2JFL62bQ16Q4BGbaInpy1SBv_TFkM_VRC0k6HvTPQaPdWv8AUP7sVKgjpcBdPicwi5J0d1WxnmsZyzQ-CnCv7Xo2dJ83OLRARGEfiLEhEFhMe0Qc_hsuL9XAyNf9Krxg8WVFkYQoqivhwjk6xD7QTu6IBXFpC0jItK75tYe_ZyUgBYmAjFOyJA-8H4PFvqQedmeOxQxqvPEx7A2qkjdJ7xA2HyYYl=w1263-h947-no)

Cut off a piece of the tubing.   Showing it on the print next to the square part.  I'm guessing you can see where this is going!  I had bored a 1.259" counterbore .1875 deep on the lathe so that the tubing fit with just a little clearance in that counterbore.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jBAFNgUQ8VnIVyngxYuAkcNv-jP2lhZSeqkJP1yng5QyQF3Ow3K0rNjUYbLAyxSELYv61HH7ojRsyEyk8eVnyQa5OA8MnnxjEn4jc0tpUanVCtTGQ1Ntn1t1POYSQ6Wsh2p42SBPtZjyZPaGPYjNMzIioMq65rXOrWJBmNgSJmN3gZ6gxhSDz3EL1HKzzlMhnp5TP7LOwYp2gv-MAFze1DJCcg7qz_8TnZ6iUqx0WmNisoAD94b_iOEmhpZ2qZ-xoZwtTkwup2O1EVga5gVhDOCYD5aCAuXTEZxwXcFqRV7Cw-Y1JfBq8EBLh8CgdpukA99D0_xo5qiqhB6pPIB2lk_AQg4fIeu_9aru03dF97TkP5BlaswkQIkKTv50wVnSr2ed4uKc0AQut1fDfvYXQ1VXGYfrQRj8koqihlq5EvPtDHg4kXCX6zAhzsMiFuXyS_d2gqJ3s9u8lzm6W7MWdpI1pO3nTbfI6rObKG4zIODOL8wxeTg2Jqtkpj4QWBp-j1K8vWpb5qFTB8CPjpCb2FPwK9vnf_K2KSrLgwoEEVOUOQFItU5xJIiDj8LNqhaBeJWwncbpT-paeLJ_vwk7sQlgCJalafiwVX-5KQNvJ9N_mqTHOQaCKdkxd-VtV7gL9eg3gGhToemdIDygOgchAUadRHYZjonJCM7_WdYyfBiV1ZwkI3NE7Mwu=w711-h947-no)

Pix showing how the 2 parts go together.   This strongly hints of what's coming next!  I'll bet someone has already guessed!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XqxTidgdlBsxG3gkPav9ZDb2V62jaK4Gj95kQD1NAP5eOLv-Sld4T3Ypa72IeFyAegF_mws0JBsUIoIV-5eV19QWeEsqeufWSfg3ivs_WMpowTqIYCo6zepFHefwLvY1aFsf3Xj8uCma11nNa2njBa4Al9hG-9OUpDBfGaXXyIGcOLIOqN2kEFSBnLSoIxq5rkEjR8A6wBO3U7c6-RY4epQ88URJ4zKzbtvYyyaOtvWfYgPOcqDZ5Dpm44NLuCa2a1k57cH1f8wOfN0d_c2aenTZpmDlPsNhhQNGr84ncsqIMFMQAHTGXgsmmwsQaoM57ztQZ_WqzrZfUoxrw3x6NNRN6IFcpWa2HYrjEHhCt79FdWe_Mo8pGeXYo2Ff-IyBsaegN1_E4E7PHNRUtymwsBXZS0xSfF-c1cbmIpSBaEMy1Tl_fY8-djYJIqmVpFIMLMu4IOu83Q1_2xtQgquKmUkBZUyFwStKiiRBqPGMaYy7xoWt7GaXMUYIgv12wMX1kREl5d39u6Dv_flKC2zmALPzEdtFzElp1LpZvDz8rM358Ff5-uQQJp4vYhsUDGtP0_jxLUJfd_smDTSMByAAzui5nEd0gmQFaKafLD0GEB1F2D_gAHKEn-R67hNk5KJEfjSIqu6EPH2jzvKmYPjGBU9tVFCgk-IAQ9v8zHTiKbtVzQ8uZOKisTEf=w711-h947-no)

The tubing has been brought to the required length and thoroughly cleaned with emery.  Nice and shiny at this point!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JkQQhAyg_1HpAAo1J_JAkRu0IIXGO85Z6LLw9v50y_eYEhu5OLyVNWjOtm-kbs3-Chxmpb-KANzQso8ceYzJNoC4yisv2LPstwzMEm3Wtt5Ac6iEKwPQdTedq9bIr6_BRXv-0aVuxesXzb7cD0qMzYg6gVmcxejgbJ0lmf6PqP4lfyf80RHRa0OWkZfRW7Gyrwghc4HeVomGQM63LxiUYoL3qSoZN0__K_3wSpAewq9eh1aPYVTZhnHzrt69DmQC-TLWHP1QojH65JyamOSM-RGqzh6yJEj35b2dF7A_ifBBe5o20OAec7K3ldMyjZNVO4YlY0suGP9XcdbKCpV-4Dw3nGHkVrnAFXL4BUIJRnxptZUDextwYPmpxuHOoctdskNQhhtaLxFTTCws-DJjjRcrTYeZWaHwBZjax9DT7bMwibiUGZOD7KFWyVxNeLEVQQCLgvtVZQZwjOjyuxRGcES2kBNMUSeGOW240323Mu4dGw8JtHtppnZ6dA1kaRRDzr6p_v4JMNcP9FW7Oj_XmfawxiEFsyUJm49naitVIAy0yC9QnwOFX0e000W37ODm8kus4cMwZavjbyaSnhuXzOaz-p6uJ36Nctnv_2k9DWtZ4GyIVd-JrKuGp1zD1LqEtWkL-rthWrNVZ4kDCBXoPDti7LhRbUjwS4RfgSR8Ehq4mnXkmSVWkp8x=w711-h947-no)

And finally the long-anticipated secret op is revealed.  Silver soldering.  I've never silver soldered before, but to be fair, in my far distance past I did a lot of welding and brazing so it's not entirely unfamiliar but new processes are always scary.  I went to the local welding shop and they recommended this stuff, Harris Safety-Silv 56 and Stay-Silv white flux.  The flux is in thick liquid form so it just needs to be brushed on.  I'd cleaned the parts thoroughly with acetone just prior to applying the flux and putting the parts together for brazing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iOqmuqRQznNjtJHi3VJZSYeaMBCa47izv35mBuKQ8wlCfKLMka_cG0f6eJfQwCTbfdi1D3PGeAxwB-53XrVEdq7fLM5Z4OvCsHesM7j6nXhXAWQ0e01qWBdMjIQ1Bh-IBYiAQwr8_3JcrXT9qrzWmxxpQfAoiZukLnkQSiVCgmDwO1blcqpvEQrphqQK5_Qb-zK9lbjM2RkFld7mn2Nji30Cn87gFHv-BJNt5-Jr67Hm0a2-JmiGdia1zFOus1qw9wC_-yCoAzgGk6rmNCoRuLfGmH1uYSWPYfs6b7f0xamvhjobcYbbBJEFeI74BRt2KZt7-QUpVIhscAcKJZ3QVMSruh3Ysqa_LIAuRIihnVekgpxr2q8ymbxqVvS2ChcNuxtbz0X1QAQxci7b5B5uyLmziwwVGdvPDVb1_llVL4IBbheNpPTRFrAfD_TINiXDkJ2oBc5lwtYyd_zXp0ag459KiSS5jYcD1lSGxzOsCSa2KuEjyk3Sp8URXEqjJwSBWZIQyyUTPQJDnFED37IwEFnK9kT681XtA6OT5lIi23QWvJzId6V5pUuf16bffN8EQazAiq9_Xh8v-rh2nd1m5adCN-rV5eG7wKMOyiy0lWdDROsQddwUUPnhQA0-uBd6Ja9LLjODzkW-kKsdaD2AS00UUPz7gJ8U95wGFC-ryYDCF3BzJSXFKkKr=w711-h947-no)

A pix of my gas (oxy-acetylene) rig, a small Victor torch body with Victor regulators and a very poor home-made cart. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HANQAYSC9sDZVTozcBMkzUbVwIap5b0SNPpsIWRRW4oBdaTj8sG2P6yfEqtq6G6vjsNvl1jOAJo0KMBHM8qrP9jJ92RvgiZWZEFzV6sgPlVsJ2qAtrBNLhdjsZkBCRuzrPqbwPrDD8Ed3bz5vIsahSgxjQAkBlSaeS5ewpQll52diCdk0J_CxJjL7zpwoNAoL4CtIrQiRM2DWXR88Re6gIb2vt0Nh7nRH_vxbUmW-ROBvBr7VY0PTyQSkVKFkXD8QZT5tqiixfcfIJOTwKdH0t3pJwNNSNnm1BtAS7YMc4SR5BXtQRNnNGkWwuG8nuk7WogRzBc5R4qfYoqSWBl75ePRb7VEyZ4zOzxJST2Td51Oo5VSUFzPyHdQSeEJkalfXLo3IZludmylLLxnZsmGdXqjrnOYXwF2cImkgCC40EamCgBRBU6l73xjB8AcMdniIxIreW_V3oSgrNFyatA80ELocwxOUGt4S9j-B6iZLq0aJD7Z6VAiyAysk8-akJnXSgraijOBW3DIA02kDHsW6LjL4Hz2eTfmHkTnOSACzCKA5-PJVUOgexHpHqp6GAOeQzWXdP3bTdwHCapNpv09kDdXGFBgQO4p9f0zE0d6c5MLnmtaNSXdqWAcU36NSD7F6dqXxB4qABBuTXI2IQZRzSVTqDfmGDO9gsTBkFsNASFXt1z_w4Hmlg6F=w711-h947-no)

And here's the part after the brazing op was completed.  It took more heat than I had expected.  I started with a Victor #0 tip and changed it to a #2 tip when it was obvious that I wasn't getting the parts hot enough.  I had the flame set to be on the carburizing side as that's what Harris recommends for this process.  I have NO pix of the brazing process as I had my hands completely full during the brazing!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8xbIW2fQv3Imf-MUg2o3U238s6PHkOGDpFljweSqhQ8GX41ixwLBEKfgQoyJcSnBpLnWQpPrx_IWQ5FWgKL_2dLyJiSVS8P3u2_uALLEFaobrVYxJBCAZrGmZkzmCdIs2wEE3VtH34rLs0-TDzRVxpFNd3HLyXGdIpEQshXPG2m2F7_aHVyv88Os3QEeSEymFvIQmpjJlcy3obvwTg3TjaMpXGhp4QsHQi1COtWzKic93LhzGlG_R2-0VdNr7DnXLrp4rXE17e_fOrwwn6AvWZi15xz3LIThZT41hjFaRVp0cA9oB-MHCb-UtYt2deembQm5qUBy-7nwiKreaR8Qd5txiqaCqx-J1qdthrFOLV8PU9WbXskctHHeBMqAvNssp2mK4piYGguiQ46DNBnWKxHppCYP998K5LoeZp17cyVsI7xhWdq_WfEhBHRsZhl3HSbVdOVR2Z4H7dj8GtmFnckT6-PDcGkWIlMe6qug5hYuM6jCxqTMsxi771dJeagDa7RRW1t5CF4l3oPKs3_QBqyHPVVaMPOngGRcRxask-gTMY7ft-iWXV--1mhBv0zwOR2XDktnCrCrW9ZlDgT1DJN3Ur_JyYGsXC38t7JQ55PgA6fWOfRgHIMl9rK-jWi5Q-Born4i1FuHKJXPv20CY0y0kicvb-mqJIkKt-Ak54B0OlqX7wxVdoBo=w711-h947-no)

And finally a pix from the backside of the assembly.  It looks like I managed to get the silver solder to fully 'draw' thru the entire joint.  I didn't spot any gaps at all on the backside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V6OG5Zkp_Q6THpjDg2LLkDjV3CJPzy06ZJMd230AipW3wjqyI4dlvTsDNMP8cTCpwA9Oa0sv0pg_lVe5cDazkX5X_6DTr0LunCkKwvX5JraFUlR0pjsRjHP5cEGcSEEqljHtd4JSBM9uudWMU2l3wLbJI1pRmE3dX8AErHZEkLfhckTlo71mp_haYv-6y2VumpIruspXrpVqVvQulNiNown4N5dZRHCai3_Tz1KuFRchCyB2r7qsbqk0XlMb8m34uAVznSFkA3EP2WwycfMRVMbd3naUjzHmjGoaY6B6TWMCjTSstGw_DQ2KJBm-PvzXuEBEh5Y1nU9hPtvuVFVlnRVv2zTl1gsxkFkMAfqTbZe2J_jzEfbxyLyjZRZD9ii7Tk5895fgLla2-zyPK456T2xl9FHYyUgElD5m5_gw0HuCzmZ9pKrNO7K7J3iDKEeIrNpK_fYeOTLYm8z3tn30Ru8w3htolRsiJZ5SUYTvxd5JoDT9isU0qYqOfjqaQHqg2C1AI9ngfPz_mN0H53mylqrA4DoyArheTx1T7isBSxAbXZjI03KMsVxIGCt8Iel1JhhkbdTOWQIX4v24jGaZ3iW1HerypZBUN1pcD6No1tbD-AfkvcKoz3MmKTlJIuFglhM5-HjpfcY_3gfpfL2zlRsW2T3enAMn3xHl2_WKd8DnXnrCmSeWCgwx=w711-h947-no)

Soooo, I'm just letting the part cool now and will start cleaning it up tomorrow.  If I drank, i'd have a beer about now!  I must admit I was nervous, but I figured that I could remake the parts pretty quickly should something have gone terribly wrong. 

Also, during the process, i figured out that I can't built this part as I drew it.  I need to now put the item back in the lathe, square up the square mounting flange and bring it to depth, plus I need to make a pass with a boring bar on the ID to make sure it's smooth and true and is at the correct ID.  My original plan was to just put a simple .25" in the square flange put that left me now way to do the boring operation.  So what I plan to do is to make a 'plug' out of SAE 660  1.25" OD and counterbore a matching recess in the flange.  Then press the plug in place with some Loctite after I'm finished boring.  I've got it all hand-drawn but need to modify the model and prints showing this mod. 

So tomorrow is a big day!  I'll clean up the part and see if it's any good, plus start the final machining ops on this.  One tricky bit will be milling the slots in the guide as Elmer did.  I think I can do it, but need to attempt the setup to be sure.

All for today!

Enjoy!!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 17, 2018, 05:38:29 AM
Nice work on the silver soldering!

I use Oxy-Acetylene for silver soldering.  With steel, you can be a bit more direct with the heat, but with brass, you have to be really careful or you melt the brass!  I've found that you don't get the parts hot enough, fast enough, they starts to turn all black and sooty on me. I'm no expert though.  Sounds like you've done a lot more work with the torch than I have!

Pretty nice looking joint to me though.  Should look great when its cleaned up!
Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 17, 2018, 12:56:03 PM
Nice work on the silver soldering!

I use Oxy-Acetylene for silver soldering.  With steel, you can be a bit more direct with the heat, but with brass, you have to be really careful or you melt the brass!  I've found that you don't get the parts hot enough, fast enough, they starts to turn all black and sooty on me. I'm no expert though.  Sounds like you've done a lot more work with the torch than I have!

Pretty nice looking joint to me though.  Should look great when its cleaned up!
Kim

Kim, I entirely agree with you on the heat on the larger steel parts.  I was scared by a lot of the info I had read about keeping the heat down, but in retrospect most of that info was for brass fittings.  These parts took a lot of heat, certainly not as much as brass brazing, but still more than I had initially expected.  They did come out a bit more black and 'sooty' than I had expected, but I had to swap tips on my torch mid-way thru the process and that certainly wasn't SOP.  Oh well, next time I'll know better.  I'll clean the parts up later today and hopefully finish them off.

Thanks for commenting on this project!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 18, 2018, 12:51:04 AM
Well, I spent a fair bit of time in the shop today but progress was slow and I'm left with at least one question for the forum.  I'll ask the question at the end of the post.  I'd finished the silver soldering operation on the crosshead guide yesterday so today i wanted to progress as much as possible getting the part completed. 

First, I chucked the part in the 4J by the square flange so that I could cleanup/polish the cylinder portion.  First pix is indicating in the part at some distance from the chuck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pg4lP_cwG9bFm9PAFOwiHsfMeFpA0Q3ZO0YMMNvxKSJGWQ2sdSjf38V2wj-LanULFSmmdsLYn-PAcP4x2tNJJs9Q0XK6HO0OPpqSFSDBJQ14q7UxRyd5FVK4SVeB6BsKc9OmxXMPqr08PGPJSiROY_aq_d1I6rxBoya-jjzzdEf8X5pKMGt9ZI-fx6WpSrkCS4KDVxgJ4bxHT-Xhp1lH0wcgp_GKbpZApTS2Y75AbeIRNSKyA5ChDIWOacE1VTDjK6HEC6CiofFPmSx5f8MD_sOvz_DuQ-POc8D33aHEgG5CxsdVVBBS73mhj4IhrCQirj6txUMye2l9qbvfO-SKmv8ffb6Gb26kbwWj6o7KdajYxVHkzBFmcJ46RhO-mH9NGWbzKv73CY0lHhbPZB6ZhaVFNeBi3odzqLgoAn_buoHJOGcx_QVc18qcIwRSq7IRhfT67LbgVJaF296DE7RjstMSVkAXarADHj8r3ARWZJ8g71-0bJGgkYy4IqLqbZq40ibAmmc_a1ja3jbne3M53zwM1NFE9ALqUWJGSnjdYuZVS9KpI7qTkoq-wSiCGkJWGnuxOS0piZIlJNhK4Z580s8Bq_9p44mLWRvs6s6O4OCVZpXsYGo7CIuMEWYfglsdcpWoaLhheW9kSNWPVhSrRuW13qYK87qYi1Fy8-kb7snKPNBQGxttHI3P=w711-h947-no)

Then centering up nearer in toward the chuck.  This gets to be a bit of an iterative process to get it running true with no wobble, particularly when you're not gripping much with the chuck.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fHaZcXC3At0qENh8mkIAyvXb3TaCVQ6urEziU3BGNfRYwYzcWPmoOCGuCtRIvwAn6WZjDuJD68Dqmb77vG7knd60Nt9wYb2kanZSZK59Y-ghT58UNzbsHfYIaCt1cCvqWVNmZAwqOMNxC1s4G7V8Q9Vwf1kFo57MHeqMARxWA_B2FJ65JB6aJtKkFi3tk_5FLh_ZWfh6CjHwAzSdhJWARxXXoYDfqZyQ_rb0xaF_TEjC4xLwLEgHCJQa0BcgmCbjFrlzCk2fSmMW62F4vLLNR2xQcCXYmvXcPefsqXAMAu6QiScp85ZPiKRpB-VTOEeJvy2fYEqNVOi-7HcyF4hmg2fkj16WGwHZ6Vinr8ZlBEf3W-DOnF-cR94iLHQQujc0WMVM68wa8E7itZ2MxnxW07gFcyKcvLfJ6Ww7XLOpAOaX5r1CvllwajRq4OzPyywYdRaM1UirE6u2zRFtIfESvgSr_LLAqnn62lvAXI6ST8v_CcISYXAahrM1-Wc_g1VqcIS4_LSityNkZBvTq7pC_mcDx8dLngDGX3yK01k8elQ3F6Nh205LuDHJQNCvgKMIHz3Gqn-rYalsXUOMe1qE9vddyBzKKSREYd4Jx_y7PjvXZXe4_FRlUe_Sr_vWHGA3CVBWo0EU5_V_O5f9apCbNd5_Itwt8WYot4Nckhob2v2d6VslV7luAAMu=w1263-h947-no)

Then I took a VERY light skim cut on the square flange and just used emery cloth on the cylinder to polish it up.  The silver soldering process turned out pretty good as it turns out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SF6GgV8GtmLl-kzY4nIJOcGZKtA6I8ZVGjMfjkei6uzXXlKSKAIcx4FdsOUbDYGvdMpY9xXqgyqaXZAR1qaoQFwuFWoD9QS_CcPJAvBuq-KA0g_tLOyNyWjewtsATTv2vbp0Rz5WEy3Co9oLD84MF7kFYA0JjOl7WplvN-To38_nyMi8LIawmamsg1kXrpDdpHId5-Y-8uvze0jZe4uRM2WOtmpkUx_ICBjNV5FAus8_Cd_rXKR6iNofsBjUhh5rDdRrg4ifhXUtdIPLuQbHKxo0BFlF4N6OM_7M9HdRTJvYYDNaEdPmp_nxp5gIyQZbi_mRMg5HZud5oeTrQxjQAVNBFeKvz4pIWcJhhvSX5Ar3sDwv8j1FSRWuL0qc3NAyvhjBstxD6_Ru30IPmo2y690FsKCsNJf3L6uSSh2oaSXhxA2noW_4nckTaHsAu1c9A5pp83e_7Gi593POYrm_bmzU_7NyzWpn42MtKwzNwW53psknmrYmJ6AjkfvRcoiIUr5kMFQiQ1_sWW74VauOSjXB4KUgD6OAkCq9XHhP2haO0yUlvPeQWz4w1SNyu2xdPT6xoW7EOutisJOQ3e16zhKQ6QU44y1-c2g10Gk2HvzP6qVu6C_rBTGIEM_P_WihtekJlCUqS9dYzpeKnM5x93eaIAsb87hLFYPfOM8NF5KrWgbsBpBX2CwK=w711-h947-no)

Then I turned the part around in the chuck and again indicated it in to center.  This time was much easier as I had a much better grip on the part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6Nr-6CK-AC5RpxIZ8QycmBl68v6O-CeDikgaWn2o6S2mAjO3VONrgNcfWewOEB3FGgzC6HtG0Mfq4K8pFlqxJCi4yTcT4Nnq9XqW51af8RmIPFQ2MXCCHRfD-WQ8Q4AgC-htLTp5p3z8LpfScEhMqpZOS6lYtVQFWvk-lkMsjtbjZBSlDFpja1ihPKEypVydu-dVyKvPIWrNynyCLoCI7KdohK0iTbFyYBrrhXhu-UKn0tVRl6uQOelH9tsBDmfuR5pfynt4AryXTWCToyZbtdgG7StL_UuqDegSsVND4eLwYw_CuYNkZv668v5mBgE-6Horry2ROJfVGB7kK3ehDzV7qveg59IBcuD65QVlQ-IwR19hhQ8SZvB-8_JQjUgXNKAL2oG3PjQQn8L99SFO-Hf02LAdxOxQO5IQGxit3qeQJlAv0f_XKuiv56duc84JZmIm5Xab1hkJ8b8MWg-uDboVFR3R8PgZITLNJ7Zn16dMkIOvfBk6AgKZsfXlMekViqqMVP019wsm6PRaoNoAGI5nbyYPhTHCAtToTYFolrZ7vSQ3e9Rv0lxlJYKac47YavxOQ4x0fhksMw5nZTW6N7Fb2rJW9nqSJqnX4U_mZz1OzxZlJR2FxYmQ_aYIh8wy9xdLkvXrRTgvBNXJbYIgZqlMcROnUuP7JB6NZp0PkAabjveMTgj21Ylc=w711-h947-no)

Then I took some fairly light passes as this is an interrupted cut.  I needed to get the thickness of the flange down to the spec'd thickness and this process should make sure that the flange is square with the cylinder OD at this point. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xV8Z74Frze9AFbodm-sqM4iRoFX76JhbcU9FBuGx4jpKcC2SSWjpB8OFm6tstJ_zmEYqIluwduBPW50UWkagch8M2MycwyNslsIErBfMwIx86y1SGfp-LzekFzRjQP9WT2baUhOEHPws-k0GFx88TXORwct79GL3qq9PmvHbEOk1q-meBPKblPBGEAi0f5ffSOrPIHZ-WnW1nBDKOX2qp9pKJVs6StHzrLypnXoEN6-F6DKe5DR8n-WhJDhBeqQUZg_eEhT48RSpJI5M3r-PBuhD3dMfBMkHGb5kOydbXpdm4nnWBDFDN9gud4Sx0S0LB-M9KTVgwzetsVSDXP__QYtdheOvrpZ3g65v29pfz_TUy2Qm_vbJKxZkydSRV0dcZor4kKD20-mX7xrIdJEGPkIlDOcxVMCjZSsw-FiuZXRgixdlNV95qs0w0S-SQFDJ4HxUOUbfbIUigv-XO_eGqKkdc5MqqJ2ijZq7eUyksghBL4gc9XP-3j5EP0eGFVjhjCElHXj1PiUt4KkOvNOZne8xnC7Cp8Bm1to_ZzKzzD2fHZSG-UlS-UmoMl1j2lwYCJ2G_lCMZiiBoTq6STA_omOaBwhYyu8lDLCMF82H8mBMDJT4xYTef3pZNPlPANjsAZsQta8mgn6PkjDUPpryAT2XzhTv9wXgbWOGOMrV7gazH-AUlhaa4WEG=w711-h947-no)

Then I started boring the ID to the required diameter, that being .875".  Also, this should now mean that the cylinder ID is square with the mounting flange and also concentric with the OD.  At least that's my hope and fantasy!  This boring operation was slow, tedious and terrifying!  I had to hang out my boring bar almost 4".  I was turning pretty slow, 260 rpm and taking only about .010" cut on radius each pass.   That bar is the best one I have, it's an Iscar carbide bar using a CCMT insert. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/59xPV3fNNAAyKueMTbiEYIiz5a6MP7tnBAVb_Ca16tMy42bTryti2QRs65wD4e4xLWTIAIos-yFY-1LvLbezS4w2Lre0Y9NdFt5vS2QTeCKEW4GffaCVk2XBDjsJ9530bik8E8UnnNO-QF7NkHpp7GIU0zgx6E91qbjZd8EEYmWAD3VcA4xRfhus8OCL2aOgMAYXZPDCOUr-HqmaO1gOBRTaycLNabuijAzomqpO_0f__Blq3JDWOCu4pvm9CWNjV-ImipNs0ro6FxtKQ1gww7xVg1BlLtA13KkMqTKQzaPQ-a0fwkpc8sddsx1y6lOB4UDNZfHj0HYv1K-jMphekPvzJKiSZifalzGXXHSGrkIornMxRCx_1ewFCTG24nmb-5JWa9Fz-RxdBcZ_D7wRgTeBPCb1kxfBl9mUgHZhqEbW8OHVEzllsjF3dQ2t8KRQz-rcs8l4eCKu-2xeqxL45BBGqNT4lKlqAb9HnJRdY4G6kbBuFqjlP8XU_C4riUzU2rPpGEvW2pMopjZ2W1REyh9uLuDONKhxxZOOrjcO2g889h_D1auSiopxaB-FWPDw76dpzxtDhMWm6FgiGgFzTFc9ZAMDf7Bfd4Z1aeiAqcsoY7syYmJCakOSGeIWYTSF6GoyZyM21rsP_6xY7Z-vYtcN3GC6Ap0tdW3QsTBujDjpkeDj7BeNfNIp=w1263-h947-no)

Finished part on the print.  Notice that I put in a shallow 1.25" counterbore.  Since I couldn't leave a solid end on the guide, I opened it up and then made a SAE 660 bronze plug to be Loctited into place to provide an air seal and guide for the piston rod.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QEPtB1rc4__u87lcQi8Wvsf9hjbSjew7qbQAbvOPQRzQxxpUDIUV0k5vPTXUqEvGOvuQZK8UPSQnU_8m-EmgS2KyeVI_yZove8d4JwaFbf6jrBfsJ-_QjuzdjWpxJylfgId8JSBKOLzwltJHQ8ujb-F-6EUjnR_fqPfUT0PWV5uWbBu1k8PZwQc46eRiWfcvZVxXMSj4wnnzmfr2Zio0Q1mbV_ISyyMEN_ffDJ8RPlLnHVMdD2QCntfcD9UfbZidHFMCtG2PzBvQWPCKlHGME4J4DcAEeam8lHmyHm9hlaDRSX2ZBAhPjupE16mGAi2QkBwYBD3rotdRA-xuaZCPA7SCNKORZCSu2tmzLfJhPZlKCAUBAQV8wwKxAW2rVfMRJPbNvHP0r4VNJkYHOkjTkYGAWuc-F7bOpnpMIH4T4kxbveJPftk9LiAfgwXBed9FZHS4Uho87N1kMEFY4IU-8znQx7vznssqWRdYRt1deMPCY5o6bclDyVR6WwFztJhPZ9349Dc7IbdyIDi_Xrh4uQO43MTxwDVccYTAtg6Eb1u4kCt5yYFFpDWM_h43Qs4w_8YxRVwAkWZlq1yxXS_0iBpWuM3DDVZd51daUriv00dNxozdh7OcflrpmrkomM0P11LOQ05lCdMkSa0yPoXgeS-N92tENvKdCa9TSP8671FvEJ0EhjzM8Uxp=w711-h947-no)

This shows the bronze plug inserted into the crosshead guide.  I didn't follow Elmer's plans on this aspect of the engine.  Since I'll never run this on steam, I didn't do the packing gland that he called for, but made this more simple assembly.  The piston rod is .250 and the hole is .251 so it should run fine on air, at least that's my hope.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/asaLm6icErlxGnF783Dor3ohSXeAQwG0LB8EkJmOXUmvk8fbQWJz42H-FB0_d0SYQ-6Q1WMUgEapGvBdZiKEGhKbmYSARTNModaiaOBVldoolM64i206zbJxfj4_IFrTAU5sNx_uZtIxsQ66oTxdoQV3mLR9fd-CszWGDUDDMIA191nxQGrT4Qvbx387TS1_33uhWWlAKcR6yKEmsA3LOyL3YI5xDhXIXpxoYhZQ-vaM4MjT6dWdH0GGuJTpc7kJWnu-jR7jdUcssM-9vSL_wBd3pdblD-b-D-FaKEQrGAZyhPsUxTkGAZIDcMwdBP2mCa8JnO-Tqtt1zF9tKW3oyEkdmZio8MyXLB7uvIGrMt14EY4OVxx4LuS60y6tAE3z43TXDftPtQ79RL3kSgEsM09OJBTqHi1zrT_C9qmRQOw016RefBgY1MtBr3ZW1l--k3R8uhrhmt8eJonRpBXrI5unz62RlPMBNrD0jG1cjfhrs9icBslKMfpMbFvyn2GRk2-9pHv-ctJzYIm8E2uR_r7Gdj_u0N6didU5r7huEZpygmV1NokI9ksH8-EeDpu6nmryRRSt8ji7AIOibXIM6mDsCyd7Jjz9NQEYPApU-WuhZUxWxlSNcTz5YIG_V-1x1uwc8Orf4gUGtaREu9X-eS8doccDiIREtr9M-2_Qix71xQdTIc_NioI9=w711-h947-no)

And the last pix of the day.  This shows the grosshead guide with the plug, the piston, the piston rod and the crosshead all assembled together.  The remaining major operation is to cut the tricky slots on the sides of the crosshead guide.  I think I have a way to do this, but we'll see.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VRsJoiw3PwPVrPKO85YzoUHvE0mhDKgrMNJSBuWiQGVOHelrUzD5J8nvpmQeBA4N0Cq7t7MCx90gmsKCirt1OABjzQuN72x5dC2QDT3Z_1KUvC25VdAfGmU_C8kOQnMnYpeUjeCeUK0DwC8C_FF9picx4Gq96pW859D42PdLq-NvE2fT6AecYk4gAQqUGH8udCQJZAnIJi33SfNutrofT3Oy7NgiMJMCHiS8k2wgSlBrwM-Eq3u2Evwo1XQ8N3tQNDW7jn3WbPD2w2qnVFq3DhZNldbPp46hxGk-pO9o_AA3bdaH4io_RJm9vgm-oC5q01T1W3AOcMwxmChjA9bqqKC-Yebbo9yTtrGjm31KGOzYVOxO70CxJo3jtRzd1pL9h7XKW40EDllWfrPOuBoKnp_dhqiX6T17ehTNcyh9YKBRbMurh4DisMnVWAXm4Yrrim2IqZ0qXbkGsAtsYWe546QN7aIw48wB2-Q9Fz38wKF5l8Z4yI4K1YYZusNi3e0-MFHaKQLY9oR2OtGdHjDFgAkaxHpZS_JCn8oaAt7vvgi5XJmjCu7y1f8HOVhX_Z1JyRla9ptcYzKqBwkLxNDeqB5-mVao3ey9kNgBSTn6BIdEYJ0zb4GCcOosX6MxoQE15qdFYsUwMdR_YkbfpLbWmzaZmbSHFX7lInzEG2Y3Nfptn-Pkx_Hoptr5=w711-h947-no)

Now my question.  The bore on the crosshead guide is about .001 over the OD of the crosshead, but the finish on the ID of the guide isn't that good.  The boring was tough.  I was turning too slow and even taking shallow passes at the end, the finish wasn't that great.  I do have a small brake cylinder hole and ran it thru several times, using WD40 as a lubricate.  This cleaned up the finish a lot but it's still rough for my taste and running the crosshead thru the guide sure doesn't feel as smooth as I'd like.  I suspect there would be an issue running the engine if I just leave it in this condition.    So, the question is, what should I do?  I can run the hone thru more but I'm not sure that's going to make things much better.  Should I consider buying or making a lap and getting some lapping compound to get this guide round and smooth?  I feel like I should do that before I mill the slots in the guide.

Any and all input on the above is very welcome!

All for today.

Enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: AOG on September 18, 2018, 02:20:38 AM
 My 2 cents is to leave it alone. If you oil it and run it in and it will seat itself.

Tony
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 19, 2018, 12:27:06 AM
I had a pretty good day in the shop today.  Progress was a bit slow but there was a lot of contemplation and trial on various stages of crosshead guide operations. 

First, a coda.  Tony (AOG) suggested I just leave the crosshead guide and crosshead fit as they were and it would wear in with running.  I had   contemplated lapping and all sorts of exotic processes.  Based on his suggestion, and realizing this was just a guide, not part of a system that had to hold compression, I decided to just hone the bore a bit more until I ran freely.  I did so with a small brake cylinder hone and after about 5 minutes of honing, I managed to get a pretty good sliding fit, although not quite as free as I'd like.  But now I'm pretty confident it will run it whenever I assemble the engine and apply air.  So, with that accomplished I decided to move forward with the rest of the ops on the guide.

Now a quick 'off the main subject' note and pix.  I really like using 5C collets.  I have a number of machinable 'pot' collets that are very useful for holding large, thin parts or for repeated operations.  I needed to clean up the other side of the reversing valve so I simply bored out a AL pot collet to 2" ID about .125" deep.  I was then able to easily hold the reversing valve flat and true to clean it up.  So, an aside just for general info.  This pix shows just taking a very light finishing pass and putting a small bevel on the corner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ULhyjMcEtYNVfImpIorv3GnH69wpweekOxltscoshcGw4PA9BA0TB--F90cWcMXEnpD9JfWlQR-ijIADm8hBLV2vDmYkNMErKuw-0_ieua4ezo8O7ffnZlWcXofyok9qs1dfLxWFEHaXHXR3_qAuy_Zb5M55V5LNCQiDqms48Q5Xa3g__HtwC4IVFYM28l0BMpMaHXbgHuHQGqWOGuLXkolaaFJU0y2sVQUzqyaycyB6nRMn0bddddtS3I273AATARNOAPH1JaNshsW9tbpqT0wX8VnNiQepk0PhRanxMA73Zp_y_UsQ9v67G2AJg2sdVsc8J7iK4qareu7pcvCU1I3rf6dEGzPN0OlMLkHeShEbRKhLPHx3vehHviUa3iYsPsQAssn_Pxpva7fezVEyz34GO5LuZ_s5Tcv4Xf_2XFfCGJOphZTcCMMnsB9EmzNy_NLFGVoG9hJSCs7ySLS6mJUiSpWIDSCzXmrOuT76bHzwOw54VPmQz4rnwNYdlpmKyQ-cchvo41fbEyCKwXBCg7rlcfDJCGbGLJ-D5ezosihwhOTxnVDT7pV6DrHVnsWaCM2waIr_Dbi2qJvkO2UkpxteCvYr-JD8e9V5MI9ceNhiSDLaBJHpgdrQ0j8QUdi6agEVkUGWWHE1-VIN1vZnrvn4bGR-CadraogNLuMc318CW1SlcxFdZqvT=w711-h947-no)

Now on to the main action for today, completing the crosshead guide. 

First pix shows a milling hold-down clamp, laying upside down.  Note how I ground the end of it narrower and rounded the bottom a bit.  You'll see why in the next series of pix.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O2mtAHdTipZtH_-_FknifV-q1jV-LPJ0m3OgqQFL-OM53RavCTtmnWe2UT_Nx58hBhxEn-N7X3TtIMWpKGy_7WMOP5nWo4t5JArj-KQbONRxnyUp4H8MgRUaygnddVdd4IrVwkKbbvywDQRYDXFLkfutgz1w_t2R3_M5ScqBvrI8mwA0ej5ws67dPKyAGdntz3-EjyEMWrk-evp7NP6vc07VAn-xhFshn3uyGztt1OY_ceo_UE1A2gGW4XCkYeoRbJWtJw-NUHblvIoZyGqkPDOgCFGsY9MqlAq2uT8dLYzzPdEs_OvWPURPye60rm6A4oRAdLwDbb_XlCHRoFRcvX2Gq_nD-10JJ6IhDgJbJphW89JX0pXrqqW32AamA3ITm7Nin6-zcqpLBYpgYk96u9p-XnOhAxXqcPrp5_FCgfBxv4CTa-TZTKlftdeV1sbJVY2NxJ9f0yRC_h5aFl62vDl1Oe_A5q-HVky4LcZbkW6G2EpcAo-un7acHO5ojussrJsdn1532B9MTdQOaudLYAzh9giONEJl8KDbS-j9b2AcCGFHCPF9ogzoK3H-JrssCpPHpaPxMwbLkRO0DIypStrzdRyzO3AFaZTFwqdRFKBMe6eGT47VPtqzQcVE21dRYQ_TAglOt9SQBe4S4MnCWu_vUvQsZ_eAHWKm_F1hqY1SsaDLULLKMJvP=w1167-h876-no)

This is the setup on the mill that I ended up using.  I'd thought of all kinds of ways to hold the work, but all had issues.  I ended up as you see.  I clamped the square flange end onto the milling table, thereby assuring the slots to come would be properly oriented.  Then I shimmed up the other end using a parallel and some old gage blocks suitable only for shimming, not precision ops or checking.  Since I was milling away the side, I had to somehow clamp to the bottom of the cylinder, not the top.  My breakthrough in figuring out how to do this was when i realized things like milling clamps can be modified, or even custom ones made!!  Shocking I know and I'm sure many are laughing now since this surely isn't anything new to most people, but for whatever reason, I'd not thought about it until now!  This pix shows roughly squaring the part up using a square.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y1cEH9vgus4vfRaqbiW1ARkdnhVdA2KKFxp6nVHnv_SXrE2TpOfn3bI1XNz52EhKY6oq8cT_MermdKCZjZKihkaItNWFy-Qe7IYbs-t4_ydxcgeTkgS0Ec2XQmbRQuhPPPCMJ1Z80qTjpgiIQ4hKBhOcykelDQ4L_FXrCdH5IJoZF9qrhGz8mlrCGx2vrNTo_CKECqvx54j3mlSLkrEzRIFKf53TMvEhJdWdGM4A9rsNUMVYLcPDXrFADAuJ_9WsRR8sj5shG13j1f4Ymug5AtnTW1XdBi3QkIT3CSfd-K3LBe8jVrsUvCZgL1Rzkk-YUtuR1VfzE9RWQ0ZTf28sI047tb4_vNnaDIZvoEy6HpyKAqHuHyzbhDEfNSsd3oeZB_Gt3vv2kU5BXiNaiSAfQ152fHjmPPc7ox10wWft-DFXhv6-vdru7VMadh_FnK6w9OMhsT8stiJeWj7AJlD35dzJFb6K2NU6HvXGb5OzS35riE4LCAqHjWraM6x3l9Bi_jSDLj8u8c8lN_m_gXkNzoNFQmPyQV4pQU9xVnfHbXoTuYi1PzjkpZigMR4yoE18qdSyZ1u6NhjiFaatOqR3YILuoI7nEgYYU-eBEXqql6nK_GK6nMmp5zbuplcZr0ZYT5_92rhigl5Mw78eqJ36uSqixPz6HK0kKRemvZmv9ztbIZoKCHz0AseO=w711-h947-no)

Closeup of the modified milling clamp and the shim stack.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jZ_mRXNtolWE4oxLrIg31MOvuzAsxQ_Vho6-x38I-tSEIUv8redEVF4IEeVrfuMRCFUPn9nX1QwaVHqveBqtqsfV3nbl48CwyiHYCtJRbRntKGQ7nClQn-Y2nFmc4a7VUHZeiEvHmCTxlMH0v8AJ3_YnV_QyJWOqyI3DsxcFsZ27Xk_pmsvMRZE86WF4w4STnqGCYRphUnHI3hOQ7EvZBpTm3vi7CSw7EGMK6o3TuaDb0cMYkTpce1_jNmWI1Xj8F0euHq1OZw1TbiUhqRtmSxtps3RJDAFbDc7gV1MKw1Ux60BOAa65PU9rxiel7dKhgdA7-H1X0ubyXX9CqHBoUrVwUmdI_viJYXyBAlyToHN9DggWR8zGC5BUmGwa-JTYsPXviQo-f0pQRA-ew2c6JzzoxhMrKWTCCAzmMssywgEL1o1X9JsC7sNslCGzXc-gumA1uG6eAxDkIEB3a2-z_ODcGH7iMaj2MEgoWKA3h-UtRCwZ4Nda2vJWu_03dCh5TDt_PzEk9w1TNwnuByE6o5GdEzYNbdlEx81pABK-fDuArZwvahde85qjU8nqTYKQ9CmJX9kRwaHy0eO_t0lVJpWMkKHMoICpEf2-mW91LqH2cw7niSfii0FJF6PKrvVUiIyAj2gK6dHzWavP_savNJ1qL8BPYdF3nrBvo5lFwDmmPtu5zYgt44xv=w711-h947-no)

Then using a DTI to make sure the part is parallel with the table.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C07i02TUPDRGc92rsb-U28ZzUOjIO9A_6DxZ4ACALR7zWF7AOo7n5cLVG4op5ldPU1oDjJuAYb5Sb7TNxeDwEoundA37lpEwbN099OwoMhWl2k-JYFo4tI7Q4b45NIE4ioitx-G4GDwgFqOssC658JZLzszFQU2173jwEfrSPT-To_MoCwb7hjus9FauXSe1_7FUfRTTTiU6g5D5ZTQPDgZw8koiZE3be2UTZQnj3M_J7IVD2t8ZBifUZtz_aZAd3k0heAaoQghWZYrPA8IF32nZULzE1QNiCs4C-QuXSMc4V27VcrF1eaDck2chxp5y32PmWKussdZugTe1RXTUuC6oBo02HDDKtExkL67rbMyTcBrewju_Ld0-r5bKKOGxcAfddpgFj4CLqyzCuaqyGdLINvDnaM-MEsgSx2U4LHmIpWjQWCOzr0O4GUZfSUvtcuFb272Tdt9NJqWhTwF0piC0dGWdd226KQ72cpIioyygdnVwOCncN5EwiCGh1BclOqeg1uQrT-nX9KWbmuzEgG-nXVVzKEEISW4rgdhxjny6KAreOFyGktqcotBYn-LmMfSUmQxAuSA0fD0MPND7tnFCJsUWA_3ndLqfAny2to-d_Iouj6_diOQea4rkIJtmhOzS_pjJ_7n2sBdqMK_kM3my0E3b-NHd7yy8zvJGm3cj0-yB5ibwmNNF=w711-h947-no)

Then making sure the part was the same height along its length.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2jF0KEydnaQxT6R0OB1jXhx6sDwgJgWQiKZZFEHA-aqOmSayCqVCqAH-QYcIn2mMjQe4UTVvmkSeKV5REk0cO2dmilLp15mL65uMvOXKC94vRMeB-BGrd9WYgowcK-bVn0roGT7cZsOoaocKQQwxFGE5Vn1QOjUDLv_GNb9IkCUOuYUla0hqES2AlHSfBrTrapTGq5dyIHdNoCJ5CslAgoSEeqTNAQUH7NxU_QDED5JzK74TR7FuLQDKg5gNbSJCUDjdeWYuL4e5rwsy-VsrS0oE7hLB-oGICRuInEMxp6gniRzc3Hx7_guqSo84EU-apEH8KNJqjNAB-t5RCTigOq46RLovgtP2mb8rjPMcykFUPsqu6Biwu06M0Ba_Ika_94u3yZdurQ7sow2M-bXwePWBkj1CgP1-6qDNOF9JHOLijpoUsm8bXdA2nI8Rk8mn_aFb9yCqgp4uKgdJNjxk-E18XFesHODuE0l96ZOWSy74L1gvMXwejbbKg7EyiziYc99YI6JN49dpsixhWA1N8mzrqxZ1TJRtiDjeJ5e_HQ2bQ72fFNIOyuD1mdeimOJyx9UWP6N3FUFhXsAOgzWG64yK_mvnfNKpM8o6Sjx5weRgE2eDhcGneNGM2QhQndlVPxlTTKeQy34XUWKTDYOWUG30Id50ZgA6jRt7bUKb4nVA4sC6Gb0OP4XC=w711-h947-no)

Milling the 'near' side.  I used a 1/4" 4 flute carbide end mill turning about as fast as an old Bridgeport can go.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2iZ3RMcqpjvnLyB9tV2f0Fh5-1zSHY1bJXDirfLFGPzPfNGriygYw2n5m0fPxbi-3ya1LEn54WZYJ0Ii7xw-me8m0bJpMnVepN8knGJrEP4ZltbcKRP0Qwf2SVVsmJ22Kt9mpPnyBm6a7uQiOSq5pQlwG_7r_WAJrIrj5mRZrx4vfHippdbb4qEjHLzcDScGWnoW8Mny3Wt90h51FT4nXeWHY6d7ZdPX3YWc5W0riSaMb5i5TCTGq3Tm7EVN7k-KZlTo7Hp8kostC5Pc0gzwEzNPiHS4NBhLrkPJPk2LirBovuueBmv4GEvbXXsqyW7Nx4yByPPv6Aj2Z4h7uSM-leDILGNjeyxGUOPHt5mOy8QLYRLO4RR2K_6jQkBDp3P3YdPEa_LHztrd5e3n9_Twh4W0Nh3HLCCrJs4-OhxbBjcVh-BZQmp15vn6aoFGHfxeO6j2da_mYnC4IruNs7f6XUU2IdORdKcAs16EZtCEu2tmhmjPhKC46yUOckBeANODXvWT1qT8zKpQyHTtgRzFVdWCB2InpuylryPZXD98arsiTTOO3kYtvmz7A5d4RxDkN3dE5Dpzn-FArEM6Gq5zhsaUBEeNBRlEdUcwvFvfvjp1IFfdveP9tSvrkurbs6P4EfdK0aw_Pag2XdW-aP_SVxs0-_rahvKzxlv68GLnSt_OrDqUypR2k7tk=w711-h947-no)

Since the carbide end mill was too short to cut the entire width, I made a finishing pass with an extended reach 2 flute HSS end mill.  That cleaned up the remaining edge well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mz_y5yRPBXQQFbutAMpb6Enymda6UQO1M9luzuN_kF1qqFCOX9xK0FGTfceWy6BfFk4heXuRunYb8gVsFedE2v_MS3KqwWbttqsKfHOtG1MwdJAwJwd4R5R-Sc7FnA72EpW1LRKtiSzy1Wab4ZTG_MllEcBxwwwJ-ntIpmglW1Esn6yfOhwGP5OlaNCcBOCQ5r31xkhUxzM4ZTchajR8HupVzBsQjA2VQXAHlb2-xYA5ONnbw_wf9hK0-Mx-QcWKfhYIg-4nnFLgOK-XxJFm4lozLoHGU9WYm8e9do8mDMbl03laxtHcSZDcp9k7aWVuDtFjtUo6PRpc5FvPi9XjbWTo5wwkO-VgYntQT0E3BDKlY8qOyKBN6WVMnRfrtg10AY8O5BBTWXYdYqf-a7hOkT_GJbuuqba300T22WsRk_o02keszSutz0izSg-mOgDKYLcwRJ7YJxy9f1NAoIoRz-dc48cuK0iT-YVNb1M0Ej80U76ooRqH4ViRLXDODiYVzTGZDadnPL6VORpkN7V1XkCj0g41i7CjcnIY0AlAA4WuTf3SUbQM-CC3jcpSQCbwNOxe3RWwbMmkVfh4xfrieu1SsuVPpu0MyERGnO0EYKVLuXjdtM0mr_VN35BtJPgZX6bBRLSvauf5wC4l2_2Pk-VRCeSeeIvjrktpsgUkiNwDgy21tEy4V6fI=w711-h947-no)

The finished part laying on the print.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iGMapJ-I7Y6-vYXcdf_BsAWA1Zv2jadSrKUf44iJDWIMjbOTOGmdv9TORa3b0Qq_IZR3y5LXTmP_V9pYhI3HcyC_tjVdaMRhiDSbU_uDyNOa4nHeuVhKl7M4-yrgUvKWOZ-gYCGyDq-2lNnCKw04nPkf1tWyde9sRl6qFRgoRSgqygQe-xuAuBA0Gs-dWZOsQXYgP6HePEwMWI9l6skLFhnUWVzIDgj3VKxtkEMuFJ4CrumgXOBzyhVSfvkLAcGkpgUfCEloecBwAXnptgkncqODjO2KvBd0w_IUOv2qLXyZffrZUGUpPccPPwE-Zn39YUz4PZRgQQ4SuFMZPCoYZh7TTE83M54T589fsa-DWYDJlDaxsTGroa0ViGAPkwt0LCFil9vXYeXTU2sN-6hUyWMzOLfbF26GrW5A_zvtfPIvP-DsCxO3dk20eS5W06Hw6lAb6QwhtODQCLk4Ndv1UFaB32MF7DieRtJpNDyiQBr6SZbYJtlR2jOUJtY_cj0FSZJKxIlUstvdVtj6qYSuzlek9j5tcTHtupC60TkIyWDAK5s_3sVvJsmLSYWwpnNGXq1ha3V0fh0eSNJ_I1iXYFrQvO1RA-qd2gfNzjqVTeylV7k4qwDdPO1JbU_Cgm0Sq6uXVm4w61r2JrQcoUSv46vMCIzTwNi9JQdZDZPIxy_ey8LDyqxFVYP5=w711-h947-no)

The guide, crosshead, piston rod and piston all shown assembled in the first view.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/drEvWNqHGN_cAONbH7i_QAkbmDbj6AMKdKaooYtpB9At7dcNY9IUB5eQDyfhHZpOOpUZ27w7z3MnMNJDfPnkrJlnad4lzY1qzrg5MFtVMP-6z0UctFtr5Rj3Rxv0opB9-T5Wn7lx6xJyWrmfBPhAbDe5wTzQCMNSseaDjcpN5jegosnp3yMEIi7hcS2D6yEFZZKEA29M74yio3QkEH9mDBHYqMocMOR-CK7M1kuDVcrjbU0Uge8pIC0WTxEv9H8dilF-E3XZVoMW8DWsIox2C_k6EJBAKw5GhtXC_I-v2tkYJSYI1RbJyJoxWLENvOshIQW0LPAhehUqCTPLfQF5h_0KoRQITNsb7ahr-p2jLhqdpAsX7ecjzYXS6Ixjqdi6xBJYmraG_5ANFGJiQ-mEgubmkhMYLZBGexWe_Ro0G6rVZxWWR-kSWVy7VYu6RKiky8wuQfv6Dili7U9PSi-E7A9HwNwv9gZ7ARFNrAZIjLsZMX_eHu4idkjQvCE9WYCRS6ASBe5DA8uT71UnPGOhfnD__5JvIAc3pKK50dOg4XAHT4itQvXJXHIJ4d93lPYQEfADS-1nRBQuGdiBG1VKEFd2p2ZyeiUxPUr5pFqU_tzCHyvmkoKDBLn12WVZtg8lnmec2O0AaAUwQnI9R455rDWcfTO68yAnfJhAPqQsU8MTiqPiSATBukiS=w1167-h876-no)

And the final pix showing the opposite side view.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LHMpHwhnpPvSMqaWjF3scL5OWnQcRLZj_O7T4goAFVvo8SeOH_cM9D0RKuUeu2zqDnP8C_M1bvrZ3i5_Kcdez4y18I3tzlmCTT181v3vPQ9bHVNhV_nnD_pi4cH1kwuUzPUOepjQczY5GgFNJG-rQrxFxFqXX3LE1sWFqJWPyG9vtHpwsORWcpTqX-k8hoeVPDiNbqTnGUuiAyngk9kXcOQLhqdRn8bcOEet2kVGJwuVezOko0SpyHuH6bwCvcujDwWfd6G2Da-uLi7AiErz6D93xkUKpxyZVbILnggrLSh7PNjm0L9jWL-1D8UlIf6O72MJ_H45zrGz6x0rI_uwxP2wo4FWW9JN8osTZ7ruo0tNGyk-vZlQovJw40lPgXpiruHgNSYTsKodDkRLZ9Kp5syqATHXffBHEjrHiiuNTQL8eaZtnPUYVpYN31lEtQPt4fJQHljRWJNy0xHjkLy4bvWVNUzZlrMjKP8b0UnNt_RdPsHNY8lHez1P03lzydsw_TENaC5k3Ydz6g0uQMgOnNqunYGH6OWgHN6R321WePa8BwYQjdl5vQInjF0h9ALKx4gqV7aSVzTTTeCeK3MK_n7GxaPOktgIkZjQgiUFzAnvBMCvRoyIjgVMFnyb32-TlfL7vTikSWa7BvXYR2WwaHcAyROS1d6iRn9GRFqU6sFTrpARyEGjvriU=w711-h947-no)

Sooo, that concludes all the machining operations on all the parts.  I'm quite excited to get to this point, especially the crosshead guide as that was to me, the most difficult part with many operations that I'd not done before. 

Tomorrow I plan to start cleaning, assembling, deburring, lapping etc so that I can assemble the engine and try it out.  I'm sure somewhere I'll run into some sort of problem(s) and have to modify or remake something.  I did get some springs for the reversing valve and the cylinder pivot mechanism but I'm not at all confident that they'll work.  I may have to end up ordering some, as the only source of springs locally are the Ace Hardware stores, at least as far as I've found so far. 

So, hopefully the next pix are of a working engine!  Or maybe me with my sad face on.  We'll see!

Enjoy!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 19, 2018, 12:59:46 AM
That crosshead guide came out looking swell!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 19, 2018, 02:28:29 AM
That came out terrific. It should be a runner soon!!

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 19, 2018, 05:44:39 AM
Nicely done, Mike!  Your crosshead guide looks great!
Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 22, 2018, 01:31:17 AM
I didn't get any time in the shop yesterday and precious little today due to an out of town meeting and visiting my MIL in the nursing home.  But I did get a bit of time today to progress a bit.  So here's what transpired.

I spent a fair bit of time trying to improve the finish on some of the parts.  My main conclusion is that I don't care much for a bunch of polishing and I'm not convinced that I like the way it looks.  What I liked the look of the best way finishing with Scotch Brite pads and a powered wheel.  I did figure out that you had to be VERY careful with the powered wheel as you can easily round edges.  I also used some 400 and 600 grind sandpaper laid on top of a discarded small surface plate that I got from a local shop that was getting rid of.  It's more than adequate for lapping flat surfaces though.  i spent a considerable amount time lapping (if you can call it that) the column faces, the cylinder face and the reversing valve, just in an attempt to get the best possible contact surface to avoid air leaks.  I also cleaned up the parts, degreased them and did secured the necessary bits together.

First is a pix of the crosshead guide after I applied Loctite 603 to serve as the lower piston guide.  The round insert is made from SAE 660 bronze so hopefully it will work well against the piston rod, which is made from drill rod.  An extremely exciting shot of Loctite curing!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iiEGnNzJmfADmvUdbBFa8g9ajt2i03cei-sq79OaSDge6Os0C9Tx0kssJ5TfPor4Fh8XTxAuC2WeFDkxzvD0CKOpIm93RgnwcI2vrk8LZ0aHChFPEz5yuSTz-iAdaHJhBX3BOKAaSK0N9yenE2ipHvLfj1QZj7tGvguRM6Cr6VLQsRvZzssPb7Db5717v5V6slAVwTnw41AbMLME71pVABbZk87BDeR78xnOlXsrC_6nhJSXkEhf9pe3By2qlJdjnvr2soLSqWCHxfRANJR2RHTqHP1jjKU4sIMHPc3qkydkjuexTuZAKRJQVxHrZwxB2jZm1_ad1HUMVhUQNa71R4wRb_ssEKZ3ujS5gqs6jx3_vxAI6Ova_C3BF_irCZYPP06w_dYyV00uOb9hlA992vSNrI4XxtlFPqyrD2MczsrD8QG8DBg4d1WsxI0EcGFsedweIgmndgEk52E4it5sOCSWIftUsUK1mwFeU1jcuLOm2bwzk-VB8mHr3H4ejjw3JGzlydVeAjf3MwUWINvIqmyo4nRkkpHI6K3u68HY0f6pv9HwvAPYyGRxv9__NEZ7uSUeGjo3pF1dzfR6xuhHZr70MJQFPHk42YpeCcx1S2WTJ_nFKs2nk1vb5hco5nroSjyTsU28MWJy39-rzLj2TK7xQ-GoatwBrVeBGg7O18iDRaHFHWZJJqRv=w711-h947-no)

Here's a pix of the assembled base, column, crankshaft and crankshaft bushing housing.  it all appears to fit and the flywheel seems to run true.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TFx2ISqG91hcTg4gJ15h1P-MUh5J-kLrGDj9omvj3oaep9PcHSr70NC4gpl96T8t0TDUXk3OgHoLXKKoZL5baGUvTJZulTV99ZPwYUiU8R4-aaUyeO8W8_o4HJPAD_6Tlel_vgeBSjdrU9hqSVJ179rpOLCBbB1oRBnLAcVA9n-H2-m9ICbYs25ViY3dd4y_KQJjnc9dY4aEGWKQZDaiOm6OVFlbkIElq6t3vbO05Yc3Y3aKq26bSBuBPw38zrAXncwkZi99s8BBj2I8nJMxhBD4DhWINZ0VMkugvDWoF2gtdtHh4mO0L6NXFP8zEvs2vdKFpRhJ1LlRBSAS2Ji0feu8tzMm9ND4q2rdfSLjKE4GQibPpghpMGF_5EaSI9-uzDArbJWPR6BL0mzwUnJUPwz5J1f7tWbxsijw27GmgDB3B0iWFtgnhVWif6HHlgoSLEPDgLe_hT_NMTgZdiQTpR8Vnelt5ZJh4KTuQ0j3Bb_isbTd-Fbn2biBRYua-In_1ojXZ8ZF85L92yyTIM6ltpoMA_FfmurAChRw1IogMz7eFu8LFL7Mgd5b4Qke61wctLqGDuiXAgN9M3IhKJHDNum13jGooiZdSungFw_pk_3ofZNdzYZlkQ216fAunc1Ozpt-pBJXj5k57-skC5J94Ouh5dCd9SXQVlGiWEG8AacF8t2yp-qAJlNq=w711-h947-no)

A closeup pix of how I sealed up the drilled passages.  I tapped each hole and then used 10-32x1/4" brass setscrews with a drop of Loctite 545 to seal them up.  I liked the look of this vs driving in plugs in each hole and sanding them flush.  You can also see the finish I got with the Scotch Brite.  As i said above, I actually prefer this finish.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2Gi3XHta1kStQbbkF6ouI_wmAulwNNrT0B4zA0uh-C4e33qD-UGy3ioUQP7LkYUgrGe0XL_-OdaRpgXf4HOcvGN9-finnn4Mjfag0e838apsK23jinRCqLOyTFzqtW3i3VYZIZS7EnX_wYMJ4Sdcem_ZspSUKMBWOc46_PgMgNAtD0-IUM4iyl_Lv8JkkJNoKE8jZhQS-1zcLxek0yHmY0ek1gcRDuaT82colTTNyJl5mvc_X4sMyjj2pl7yw-g5Z_5EF8aNchWFyQ4KiDWhVIFNBwTuROhkyEaAE1U-uk1L-4m9eM_Aqma4lODFj3WS2YxPka87gSL1Ab3AuLKEBOV0cvu7XwMvMtrUSfsJvYxNvekeGrZkZoBJt20j70wrnwIseFOrYRWZU7DK8imJfsMq5KsjCsTJXhXNQkiSc8h_a-XK5XSS-JH0mglegoaKn_ZAQvaQEvCoLCapZGqEwneRiC894DV7HZ5AEMBoNncbeuKCScsx-_zj7KCuBCqDwQsK0lZQCqOpTEZNdUhPurPLWEKDxiPiFsaxoh-yNtNgPOfaz4MJ96X4dtWHDQyXAG7tpUtwe0rA80KPlYPti7_Ds1ti8Ejs3KosgRtllFKP6BH-SyajA_W166JEPJvDIp0ydoAtTxBB-t8AeoQLNDyzcA3LerxvgVF75XZnayEYSkf_XLsn2fy4=w711-h947-no)

And the cylinder and cylinder pivot components all assembled.  Everything fit and rotated freely and smoothly, at least by hand.  I also made a run for different springs and found some more suitable springs, at least that's my hope.  Tomorrow I'll need to cut one of the springs and reassemble. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RUaqqR3VRU7u5GNSTWKz5osPO67-x5-ziVyaJQrJxP7Seh2dTkBKTdqD6o6qKMfJdUFmc6fSKuRWNU2P_L6awPVZvE0uhDWVxWb6jbJJAgB0xQtSwze6qZm1y8wRx5deAAz1wmEB_ENaXVkadZQ9GvtUTK9KWQWsiJiWz3E7lqWQdHqcl0-lqVTFKCfGnf7XQg04e3k7uOd-HaO9OOXWVkPs2fDXViui9xh4WIcT71zIxCbir1LqkpJAdWLKAGOyIMiXFasCdFdLkR_Bn0ZW4snckL9YIDa8rkmLpvnQH7w5wjXky7SpbNcPDwhgWyqwBgwdh0haaZ8gx1GOdCvEk2YKF7PpOwVTEAYQsnBe0G94Fh8TlO7TBJ7xw6iDGcolRT0YH6QH0vzoqTBWH-se0cUrGMnnncYBOtvkky739w0fXtlJMby8LnI2LuQ6aNCeGAH3YYE5Creb3z-wpfYMmZhY80D2fq7tVeD4t65n1lE03FSzPTjJtT3vHaf09Wxa4jLezzQmoYlhWlQ1_4gq_o3vYAPa866x8mguk-tTCDpkWNqIEK-WAgcRTpSR3jo4ZMZu8cT242RIq73Dp6v7lth61UmdJWDHvYDGcue9UnVFSthKwJShKeeCLs-1XZGKDFh1p9pmuSNnVig3-b7VlaNDp8wvOX1JJruMUB9oCn6IdfCgyLvX67cX=w711-h947-no)

So tomorrow, the crosshead guide insert should be ready to go and I should get the spring situation more or less sorted out.  I hope to be able to get the assembly work finished and to apply some air to the engine to see if it runs!  I hopeful, but I always have a fear that I've overlooked something important. 

A co-worked and I used to always be amazed when we actually got things to work.  We were always pessimistic about our chances of success.   He's Scottish and I'm an old farm-boy so pessimism seemed to be our fundamental nature.  That same thought process has carried into retirement with me evidently!

In any case, enjoy!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on September 22, 2018, 01:36:06 AM
Looks good Mike, I like that finish.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on September 22, 2018, 01:51:29 PM
Following along and it's looking to be a good runner !  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: jonesie on September 22, 2018, 02:50:15 PM
hi mike also when you put the part back in the lathe after the brazing you could  help hold and center it by using your live center in the tail stock just run it in to hold it and help center,can always remove later to do work on the end. i do this at work at and also have a bullnose center for bigger stuff. parts are looking good
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 23, 2018, 04:20:22 PM
hi mike also when you put the part back in the lathe after the brazing you could  help hold and center it by using your live center in the tail stock just run it in to hold it and help center,can always remove later to do work on the end. i do this at work at and also have a bullnose center for bigger stuff. parts are looking good

Thanks for the great suggestion!  After I saw this, I wanted to try it out.  But I discovered that my live center and my dead center are both tool small for this guide.  I'd run into a similar problem some time back and I think I'll have to purchase a bullnose center for my lathe.  I've done some work for my brother that involved some larger tubing and so I'm sure I'll need it in the future.  Besides, 'who ever has the most tools when he dies, wins!'

Regards,

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 23, 2018, 05:16:48 PM
Well, after a bit of struggle at the very end, I finally got the engine to run.  I'll make a few comments in this post regarding the issue(s) and show a bit of detail of the final steps.

After I had the engine fully assembled, it would not run.  Being optimistic, I simply put air into the port and nothing happened.  After a bit of checking i found that when I tired to turn turn the engine by hand, it was incredibly stiff and tight.  I spun it over for a bit using a drill motor on the crankshaft and that didn't make anything better.  So i started tearing it back down to see if I could figure out what was going wrong. 

The first issue I found was that the piston I had made of Noryl PPO seemed to distort and had a surprising amount of friction within the cylinder.  Also, careful checking with a mic indicated that it had gone a bit out of round.  Sooo, after a bit of thinking, I decided to remake the piston using cast iron.  This proved to be a wise idea as the subsequent testing within the bore showed much less friction at the same clearance.  Plus i could see the cast iron and aluminum cylinder were wearing in to fit each other better.  Here's a pix of the final op on the cast iron piston, parting it off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZwhVIOFd1AiRgma4DRgYKmQXsN6cYkhNpk6sBp-sUvoTU8SVTyUZ730zlPhxRlekP-bmhozhoM7-EAaWN3smzNVa0WI1Bedx7uBnHNSSZzTz2b0jHE4v9opBpsSkQYzEd0QSprWaCcrgTllu3bg__dJgzUn5z73oU5wxn4fhiBR6vLdxHs-YHWWN2sDm46x5Rn_PT5fxszBU0gqUNy74LUShYNyh3HWbeUnZjUoInq2R9igtvXatQq3wO9bWOZEAj8pJsn4xA5I4NZ74k3wLYMbMdA3-LUBgNdZX8Ol4wyD9TxS8UtzGUhVKGq0vXETg4FFM4wFJu_DzVkkxoUTs5CbkCS4N6qutvXdqrzVDfagTC_I8qMySCTBYVWUQE4S2C7HgqnXyPAr9-EfjVjfgUQlWxYziigKQRmrf_9hNaV1hM3dEmPgtpvV2AlxvOJDPhl_AeIAffWkeFjkq9FC1NF3r6an7I8EMMb8fzaFU0jzs9mqbHlSikUMmVBaLMV-DtzRML7F-m7XDQbtKEUlUPeO6olPfKIgn1Qwv4nQ3cbmNI3HjHOy0c2fKVnxN8SMKCWb0Sd1hRVOrHXKfD3oH0dtWtyoKjxHH8oSnXNRCVYVXqTzVXKzVITfWd28gr_bfktaswrXDYCr2kxqgSRu8911D7uoAMxrCHgz9goZpF8ENhWL8pNgqCbj=w1263-h947-no)

I then tried just the assembled cylinder, crosshead guide, crosshead and piston, pushing the piston assembly thru the bore by hand.  I still noted what I felt was too much friction and a bit of binding at certain areas of the stroke.  So after careful consideration, panic, desperation, etc, I took just a bit more off the OD the crosshead and brought the clearance between the crosshead and the crosshead guide to .003".  Better but there was still some binding.  So then I took a look at the .25" hole in the bronze insert at the top of the crosshead guide.  There was .001 clearance between the hole and the piston rod.  I THINK what was going on it that when assembled, there was just enough tolerance 'slop' between all the parts and consequently the assembly would not travel smoothly.  So, I opened up the hole to .257" so I had .007 clearance and finally success!! at least when running that sub-assembly together by hand.  Then back to fully assembling the engine.

I had to do a bit of experimentation with different spring configurations on the cylinder pivot assembly. 

It turns out that the springs have to be quite strong.  For the larger spring that holds the reversing valve down, I ended up with a 0.97" OD, 0.76" ID with a .105" wire diameter spring.  The spring rate is supposed to be 27#/inch.  I cut it to about 1.0" long with a cutoff blade in an angle grinder.  So I think I ended up applying about 13 or 14# to the reversing valve mating surface.  With that spring, i didn't notice any air leaks, bu that the valve still moved fairly easily but did stay in place while the engine was running.

For the pivot rod spring, I ended up using a 1" Long, 0.5" OD with a .041" wire diameter spring.  The spring rate is supposed to be 10#/inch.  I left it 1" long and after the spring was in place I'm estimating that there is about 5# being applied to the cylinder to column interface.  I THINK ideally there could be a bit more pressure, but I didn't notice any air leads while running so I'll probably leave it as is. 

Sooo, after all that, see the following!

Finished engine pix 1.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d-rxnVmi4KtCmbBGzT1bGAckllaIqX9p0c49kTKrm4x5mzA1-Gk4r9hDGzMd9Vinx4d2iCaFIFMg3XfRqDwf0X4GwHZffndagsPw2HSkTuNdN02r35LWo05V0gtM4thSJxvKD_p5BqsbvrLVWehhNF4I_eFSv4w_r5nibp_tcVnGM9ORSPqhOybG_bQq7DDI1BHF494XrMzW57mGrlQ7GUeu9O_yeSXe-bfhKsiSrqVF-nLi6uly7E6KXOKN2KmIy_-B0ssvtSblkDr83U1ZTRcw1ys75rmTD85DV36NEph2OOfr8HVJ4ofCZVvjJ3U2ZdVYcpcmz1k9tVvzCOHrT7C9woWG6xsHMc34HJH2CvEdNM3AOjKyFTgktwCCH7uAJ7g00kdOk-Ltr-mFEMjB3eo4MhrP1cCAXpzRQclOcU372T0fqRnNobVaip2L6ccs14_P1_ELz9gW5DCWYQemD9ElaxXbHQLHgjR3umgJSiMBdBzmOmMGiD1idGtR_RpqtmC_cj9fUt42KtBJl6hwRVzmm434PgStgAlJ-5WNnEMcTm8w0kjv2AiKDfcea7Omb2WkLDRtOcnD9KtovXqt2gik3t16ZeCqxrPVKqY-adePgoVjYTfeOOXAQWKdjfU_LlUEfecXvdlsZZfnypRTVgtL3ZRRYNnsb4bAdwhUGSV_2yyJis_fDdiy=w711-h947-no)

Finished engine pix 2.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Boic5TIoOxurZlfQjTsLRC8T5HoRptS81V5XPDwX_ASRqOeweYatS6pOIqg5Gy7gnueh1cDwMQ1-OmmHZ3hq0UxSPkmStmS2BY7qv1gtEmqqamB2hp__Wm2Otkzp35tN7Z-jYXvI_7Ob5qa3J1NxHhU7j8gNZIz8grbSuS0Aw_DUQs_TZV6NfrlwUbsfu7s_c61XuM_kbksxak7Unvw65EK26NzR7F6H2SF7Yf-5PDmwM5dZfp_CwEojgC0XmmHFtqBWcCglSL-84dvD5skqRTm1QjrGUWdz0zG5EsGmWiDaK5Zd-5bapjzyzQGjMvS7oQ-AceGwIodi0IMbiswhs1FibCGKCb1xsZgpFKS50x7pAZYUZbMP5S-jkahGS70ngGsdx7WpMUAgNdbyeUOa_9-NFj8f1-U44x0Qhzoj4PKr1cCnlBYTYZieSwMkmozk_7Lito0vKHuumqUle9FTS2T-qZvGaR1Ve3DkNHrq_fPPZimvaEvj-ATcDbKyd1QyYdyVeRWMwXVe8jOHgTCIe1HfEjxvnN1xGKhkCAs0_d--0GWfD0cchwQhFI90GaN-7o9IKZlnbAhN-YMJ2LlLsdejYomOQ7x2QEsCaAYobkOC03QmNj-XBulvRpvOOZvyM0u6SwNHccmMWNUuegeMARKYEbz_RsJVzk3hkRGMqw1VYgNujqH52Dvm=w711-h947-no)

Finished engine pix 3.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nC70POuN0gFnmg4pwB-ATZCNHSAMZGwqsYNzVM4nWWjjea3JzRtkHRCFZiiEhYA0TcyTHZq7Sj7oqR9uEJbpqzT7mEY5ANyZsIiaa-djGB3oQpUy2ahB8LHxBbGTdTuhkOD2bDTmhCISUL9RXWwfONZMpVSZinY0xcGAicSZ1Kv1tMI87BZzzfgtKqTeyicT5VRc6nWliL3tS6XUwG8_7hHKzN62BKhGS9lPSiVUq5XKV-i0MyM8yJGJV7CAgI3yOWzTQEJn_Cz342NA5xPELrqKtld2zRWUOxUuuJeAU8eVXajWl9pavwSH50YBbee-BoGghtjQH5JfuA5rT58eXKw8Dyn4koC_w92rR_xUtKu7cGwHhi5A6LKT_Fl1hDfbXnolxB6xikuVi2C3WAKsYi8kW12ZtWa-1LzR5OP8GEyZZriSM50MTzOr7GY6_RJMBA9Gj5_iIdcJ2ypIROA3_S5dCMBqSUbs0rYrxIG-29Qlx6McAzL259BcsJie-WXqmuc58LupfTEGB5tBG1wHHKFhqcaLwVCkvrYE5AnvmLfXtPxCKCEpIWwO16b5t_bwMALn30quSlQi1lSHoxjg0QsDZalHEw1l-tANsiF42vZ8ATzwEAc1gE8w05Zo2QHOk4WmQ9oIiZ0eTqf1TmmHdKnaF7Jp2ZJS49OR6GGCtSauOjnVIHEBbfR4=w711-h947-no)

Finished engine pix 4.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4v5HtQoevk0YyXdv7E1zEEn8ID9bttmTt1PXwNCkONMIssMKCwiVX7IzLibEzgL2YLy5q3a1dd0e3kTfQG3TtEqFHXwDc9ZBWdf-pVrp30Zmy9ciczkpSrmPktAB-MdAXMOgImRj_hDJmep4AcdU_4ApYY0TpTSafhM13TFvzeyd8aMUgf1C4pKuH3_5T7DhC_kMajAD8MPB-XGs3eip1eLWHiqa9RBpxCMVig8hrmiOnUkWWZ1LpXfKiNrkadSbt9KK3MIk6X0aDEOVeXVxVC8_7hMRS6P5nqqw3avJ3BDKFnMIxhURxKO3MDd2ZtTJx1eHyVpP5g9-S7eeDTMgpJSgpGSsdYT6j3HMUdBGnvV2VYvAsyydaes6TQPKMqBFNaUp1hEA_pQ8EdOx24PmPY8BrUj5X9o9FRpxm58SSfbp3zkqp5m_Ss34TPpIaBFXiPH-3vXd2kGYuWAr-YROZMN6NJ3fowZehL--2L9AC_sVaWRC7Ul5wmEIHS1xO1uEwbOt3rMhGqWpNNi_1phnmcKT-xrVXnEsdnFkrt5w5vCOTlwgAsnf39UICYx4eQKRhZGdrfk3b5Obn49c9XbJEa-0I2Bi8FxP3f4RKKCqwY6jarjTGH2trQLe1UWYI7p4uND3z5jrsoVaJ7XFhhFWS3gaIIEFpgO_tvnmTAkPfkr7F-RclA8xdud3=w711-h947-no)

And finally, a video of the running engine!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvRPZeODYlU

The engine is running at around 2 or 3 psi and the reversing action is shown.  I did speed it up for a bit of the video, around 20 psi, but I don't have a tach or any way to tell how fast it's running.  I was more interested in making sure it ran smoothly at slow speeds and that it actually reversed.

So, I'm quite pleased to get from a working model and drawings to an actual running model!  There were some tricky bits and it took me right at one month, but I did get it done!  I also successfully perform some machining ops that I'd never done before, silver brazing, drilling deep small holes, some more complex work holding and operations on both the mill and the lathe.  Hopefully that experience will help on future models.

All for now.

Enjoy!!!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: crueby on September 23, 2018, 05:30:13 PM
Very nicely done! Excellent runner, and great finish on the parts. Love the sound too!

 :whoohoo:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 23, 2018, 05:32:22 PM
A fine result Mike. You should be proud of that one and how well it runs.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on September 23, 2018, 05:38:57 PM
Hello Mike,

Boy that engine does have a great sound, like a train, good job.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Kim on September 23, 2018, 06:03:33 PM
Nice work, Mike!
It's so exciting when you get the to run!
Congratulations on an great runner!
Kim
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Don1966 on September 23, 2018, 07:04:24 PM
Awesome runner and very nice work Mike you should be proud.


 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: AOG on September 23, 2018, 07:37:30 PM
It looks and runs great. So what’s next on your build list?

Tony
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 23, 2018, 07:47:11 PM
It looks and runs great. So what’s next on your build list?

Tony

Ahhh, a most interesting question!   I'd been thinking about that very thing for the past few days.  I believe it's going to be Stew Hart's Horizontal Potty Mill Engine.  I greatly prefer horizontal engines and that would be a good first one, I think.  I think I'm going to try purchase a cast flywheel and use scale fasteners from American Modeling to get a bit of a 'realistic' look. 

First though, I need to do a bit of work in my shop.  I have a DRO kit for my lathe that i want to install and I need to make a few misc tools.  I want to make some tailstock die holders and a 'pump-center' for my lathe.  I also have a 3 jaw chuck that needs to be rebuilt and a 6 jaw chuck that needs to have the jaws ground.   So, I hope to start a new build in a couple of weeks.

Thanks for watching this build!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: toolznthings on September 23, 2018, 08:23:03 PM
Super cool !! Nice job for sure !  :ThumbsUp:
Are you going to share plans ?

Thanks !
Brian
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 23, 2018, 08:30:45 PM
Super cool !! Nice job for sure !  :ThumbsUp:
Are you going to share plans ?

Thanks !
Brian

Yes, I will share the drawings and the Fusion 360 model.  I'm making the last few corrections to the drawings and should finish that today or tomorrow and will post them.  The drawings will be accurate and you'll be able to build from them, but what will be missing is the tolerancing, so some judgement will be required.  For example, I have a .25 shaft going into a .250 hole.  That obviously won't work, but it will be up to the builder to figure out if the shaft should be made under or the hole made over and by how much.   I think the biggest value in these plans is that the air passage layouts are very clear, at least to me!  And the air admission passages into the cylinder are shown accurately.  Elmer's original drawings used a jig and the dimensioning was missing for these critical points.  Just fyi, it turns out that the cylinder oscillates 11.5 degrees from vertical so 23 degrees total.  Odd, but true!

FYI.

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: propforward on September 23, 2018, 08:46:23 PM
Nice job Mike, that's a lovely engine. It's a small aspect, but I especially like the fillet of braze you ended up with after turning it clean - looks really excellent!

Beautiful runner, very impressive.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on September 23, 2018, 10:52:44 PM
Really nice Mike. I like the finish also and it’s a sweet runner for sure  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Whiskey
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: kev on September 23, 2018, 11:04:19 PM
nice one and finely finished surfaces, one for the mantel shelf:)
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: Larry on September 24, 2018, 05:32:39 AM
You did this in record time. Great finish and sound. Congratulations !
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 24, 2018, 10:40:24 PM
I've just posted links to the Fusion 360 model and the PDF of the drawing set for this build.  They should be very close to correct as I made all the revisions/corrections that I found during the build process.  Additionally I've gone over the drawings pretty carefully to make sure that they are easy to understand and are as clear as possible.

Good luck if anyone decides to build this engine!

Mike.
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 24, 2018, 10:53:25 PM
Here is the direct link:

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,8474.0.html

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 25, 2018, 12:34:36 AM
Bill, I have a question.   Should I post a few of the final pix and the video link in the "The Showcase - Engines" section of the forum or is that section for engines constructed without a build log?  Or are the final pix and video in this build log thread sufficient?

Let me know and I'll follow the recommended practice. 

Thanks.

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: b.lindsey on September 25, 2018, 12:39:47 AM
By all means post it in the shocase as well!!! That is what the showcase is for. The reference to build logs only means that build logs should be in the proper place and not in the showcase, not that build logs preclude you from posting in the showcase  ;)

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on September 25, 2018, 12:44:07 AM
Will do. 

Thanks!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on January 17, 2019, 11:50:38 PM
Detailed and interesting build log. Really good.

The engine is a beauty. I love the contemporary look with the circular and  rectilinear forms in balance with each other.

One that I might fancy having a go at myself, one day when I have some experience.

 :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on January 18, 2019, 12:35:04 AM
Detailed and interesting build log. Really good.

The engine is a beauty. I love the contemporary look with the circular and  rectilinear forms in balance with each other.

One that I might fancy having a go at myself, one day when I have some experience.

 :ThumbsUp:

Gary, the build of this engine isn't too hard.  The trickiest bit is the column with all the cross-drilled holes.  At this size some of those go quite deep, plus you need to pay careful attention to which plane they are in.  Elmer's original drawings weren't that clear to me, with respect to these holes plus he used a jig to drill the air admission holes for the cylinder.  I drew these out accurately and dimensioned them so that they can be accurately placed without a jig.  The only other bit you'll need is a small rotary table to mill the slots in the reversing valve plate.  However it was the first time for a lot of these operations for me so i took my time and managed to get thru it all! 

Good luck if you decide to build it!  I'll certainly be watching if you do.

Thanks for your interest!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on January 18, 2019, 09:44:08 AM
Mike -

yes, I have a sense that it's not the trickiest build out there. I haven't yet built an engine (only a boiler) so plan to start really simple, i.e. with a basic single-acting oscillator. However, I have noticed that in general people's skills develop quickly once they start, and that each of a builder's engine's tends to be markedly more sophisticated than the one before it. That's an exciting process!

gary
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: mikehinz on January 18, 2019, 02:14:47 PM
Mike -

yes, I have a sense that it's not the trickiest build out there. I haven't yet built an engine (only a boiler) so plan to start really simple, i.e. with a basic single-acting oscillator. However, I have noticed that in general people's skills develop quickly once they start, and that each of a builder's engine's tends to be markedly more sophisticated than the one before it. That's an exciting process!

gary

Gary, I think you're exactly correct in how skills are developed.  The very first engine i did was the Little Machine Shop Oscillator.  Plans can be downloaded from the LMS website.  The plans are very clear and the build is about as simple as it gets, plus it runs quite well when you're done.  I highly recommend it!

Mike
Title: Re: Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine
Post by: gary.a.ayres on January 19, 2019, 12:44:21 AM
Thanks Mike.

I intend to start with the single acting oscillator on http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/simpleoscil/simpleoscil.htm (http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/simpleoscil/simpleoscil.htm) or a version thereof.

Simply because - like most of my tooling - it's metric.

Otherwise it seems pretty similar.

No doubt I'll have to come to terms with Imperial measurements at some point, but the plan is to start as easy as I can.

 :ThumbsUp:

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