Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: fumopuc on August 26, 2017, 09:21:59 AM
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Hi everybody, I am just playing around with Fusion 360 again and started to remodel another D.Kelley engine. Is there anybody who has detected the same issue, collision between the threaded holes for bearing block and idler pin ?
I made a work around already there, only would like to know if anybody else has fixed it similar.
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I found the engine on internet and find it crazy.
http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/Kelly17s.jpg
But I have thougth of something more crazy
http://chevy57.free.fr/FORUM/junkers_two-stroke_crosshead.gif
It can maybe be the worlds most effective single cylinder genset.
What cylinder size and RPM are You aimimng at?
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http://chevy57.free.fr/FORUM/junkers_two-stroke_crosshead.gif
It can maybe be the worlds most effective single cylinder genset.
What cylinder size and RPM are You aimimng at?
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Not single cylinder but similar principle as used in locomotives.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3bj47TAYiU
Nick
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Having that dowel hole a bit shallower should not be a problem or you could omit the dowel around that screw and have a solid dowel above the screw hole that could go in deeper.
Its 0.960" bore x 0.75 stroke. Plans were in Model Engine Builder
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http://chevy57.free.fr/FORUM/junkers_two-stroke_crosshead.gif
It can maybe be the worlds most effective single cylinder genset.
What cylinder size and RPM are You aimimng at?
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Not single cylinder but similar principle as used in locomotives.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3bj47TAYiU
Nick
A cheap copy of this
https://oldmachinepress.com/2015/09/26/junkers-jumo-223-aircraft-engine/
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May be he will share his plans with us.
http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Tomlinson.htm
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Having that dowel hole a bit shallower should not be a problem or you could omit the dowel around that screw and have a solid dowel above the screw hole that could go in deeper.
Its 0.960" bore x 0.75 stroke. Plans were in Model Engine Builder
Hi Jason, I have had this combined dowel/stud solution in my mind.
Fixed with some Loctite it should last forever.
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Playing last week daily nearly one and a half hour with Fusion 360 has given the following result.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v89Q4LYF7EE
I do like this software.
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Fumopuc
Bravo bravo, That is truly amazing 3D modeling. It looks so realistic, you can almost imagine each exhaust beat.
Mike
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Mike, this result is more related to the really very well made software, so that nearly everyone can learn to use it easily.
I have made the download of my copy 01. of April this year and I am very happy about all the features I can use until today, may be 1 % of the huge package only and it is really fun.
5 Years ago I have bought an old license of DesignCAD3MAX (V19) for less than EUR 10,00. This was good to understand what 2D CAD means. The 3D section in my opinion was to difficult to use by only once a month or so, but that is an complete other world.
Today there is no doubt any more about starting a design in 3D and to make the drawing is the very last and easiest thing to do.
I never would like to miss this parametric modelling software in future anymore, to change or modify something in your ongoing design is an extra fun.
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Hello Achim,
I have heard nothing but good reviews about Fusion 360. Looking at your work, I think I would like to give it a try. My problem is I do not have a Windoze PC, I use Linux for everything in the workshop. I will need to buy a new PC if I decide to go for Fusion. That could be an expensive way to run what is effectively 'free' software. :killcomputer:
The problem is knowing what to buy, on a limited budget. A new laptop PC would be nice but Fusion 360 seems to require a high end graphics card, a laptop' built-in graphics may not be enough; I just don't know. I may need to find a desk-top machine instead and add a suitable graphics card. I am also unsure of the processor speed required to run Fusion successfully.
What machine configuration do you use? What can you ,or anyone else out there, advise me to look for?
Mike
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Vixen
Fusion has a browser version preview check here https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-preview-functionality/how-to-sign-up-for-current-previews/td-p/6932558
I have not used it and I don't know how far AutoDesk will go with it
Jim Geib
Mansfield, Ohiio
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You could send the question to fusions support desk or forum, they are very responsive and helpful.
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I think I need to be a bit further up the learning curve before I can make use of their support desk.
With your help, I could maybe chose a laptop and ask the fusion support desk if it is suitable.
Mike
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Hi Mike, here is the link to Autodesk about the necessary system requirement.
http://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?caas=caas%2Fsfdcarticles%2Fsfdcarticles%2FSystem-requirements-for-Autodesk-Fusion-360.html
In my 5 year old PC I had to add a new graphic card with 1GB, the onbord card was not able to manage all shadows.(EUR 62,00 )
Another tip for getting cheap and good Hardware is may be such a company.
https://www.itsco.de/
They do sell Industrial used Hardware only.
May be there is a similar source in UK.
I have bought Monitors, Notebocks and also PC there, always good quality.
After one month playing around I have bought a space Mouse also, simple one of 3D Connexion, never want to miss it anymore.
https://www.3dconnexion.eu/products/spacemouse/spacenavigator.html?_s=qibnaogv3d3i5rei6fr1jimer0
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Mike I use fusion on a iMac 4 ghz and 4gig of video ram 32 gig of mem but it runs very good on the wife’s Mac lap top with integrated graphics
They only spec a 512 mb graphic card and 4 gig mem
Note it’s Mac and pc
Try microdream they do refurbed windoze laptop and pc reasonable but may have a cosmetic defect but they do give a 12 month warranty
May be worth a look I use a small dell pc for the mach4 setup for my mill
Stuart
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Achim, Stuart,
Thanks for your help and advice. Sounds like a refurbished ex-industrial Desktop PC with an added graphics card, from Microdream, will fit the bill.
The laptop route is too risky, as they are limited to the built-in graphics, which may be inadequate.
Now I only have to find some time and money.
Sorry to have hi-jacked your 'Opposed Piston Twin' thread for the day
Cheers
Mike
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Mike you will be surprised how well microdream pack them up better than the new ones are
Note I am only a satisfied customer
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Achim, Stuart,
Thanks for your help and advice. Sounds like a refurbished ex-industrial Desktop PC with an added graphics card, from Microdream, will fit the bill.
The laptop route is too risky, as they are limited to the built-in graphics, which may be inadequate.
Now I only have to find some time and money.
Sorry to have hi-jacked your 'Opposed Piston Twin' thread for the day
Cheers
Mike
You are welcome.
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This project is taking more and more shape.
Just struggling to find a rimfire spark plug cad model 1/4-32 UNEF.
Does anybody know if this is availabel anywhere ?
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A cheap copy of this
https://oldmachinepress.com/2015/09/26/junkers-jumo-223-aircraft-engine/
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Not a 'cheap' copy at all. - If anything the other way around.!
While I accept that the concept of the Deltic was probably / certainly taken from the Jumo the Deltic was a very reliable engine. The Jumo was short lived and eventually dropped due to reliability issues and constantly trying to eat it's self.!
They probably would have sorted the Jumo issues though if it had been produced at a different period in time without the supply, timescale restraints and resources being needed elsewhere to develop it fully. Also in the few years between the engines massive leaps were made in metallurgy.
Nick
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Hi everybody
Some time ago I have discovered the "play botton" in Fusion360. So it is possible to watch your design process in accordance with the growing time line.
Here a sample video, showing my re-design progress of D.Kelley´s opposed piston twin engine. (Would be fun to see the same of Chris´s Marion 91 Steam Shovel design.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rWvxcYeGx4
In the meantime I have also purchased and organized some material and bits and pieces for this model build from around the world.
- A round bar ETG100 (similar to 1141 Stress proof) from Switzerland for the crank shafts.
- Some Italian made piston rings (24x2mm) from Carber, purchased in Greek via ebay.
- The Bosten Gears from US Amazon.
- The valve springs of Stuttgart Germany (Gutekunst)
- The spark plugs and Silicone spark plug boots assembly from S/S R.Sholl.
- A fish tank water pump (220l/h, 12 V)from China.
- Two Swiss sit lock shaft couplings for the flywheels.
- A used motorcycle twin ignition coil with two high voltage outlets.
- A 3 mm tungsten tig welding electrode for making the pointers from a local store.
- A aluminium lump for making the cylinder block.
Estimated time for the first swarf with this project should be after Christmas this year.
Bill, thanks again for moving this thread.
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Very nice animation Achim. This will make a very nice project as I have seen Doug's running in several occasions.
Bill
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I like that video! All the times I've gone back and forth in the timeline to make changes, haven't noticed the play button, need to try that! I assume you used the Autodesk screen capture/video utility (forget the name) to get the video?
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Hi Chris the Autodesk screenrecorder is called 'Screencast' and the records will bei stored anywhere in the cloud.
An advantage of this is, that also mouse and keyboard commands will be captured.
In this case I have used this one
https://www.screenpresso.com/ (https://www.screenpresso.com/)
It is free and does works fine.
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Happy new year and new swarf again.
I have started to machine the cylinder block.
Must be hidden anywhere in this aluminium block.
This time was also a good opportunity to tram the mill, what I have never done since a long time.
This could be helpful, because the 63 mm face mill has to go in 2 ways over the large surface.
For machining of the first bore for the sleeves, I used the little Wohlhaupter UPA2 again.
What a useful tool against the standard Chinese boring heads.
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Glad to see some metal cutting underway :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I will be following this one :wine1:
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Having the courage to even start on this complicated engine, has me wishing you every success. I will enjoy watching!
"Autocourse and Sporting Motorist" magazine (UK) volume VIII Number 32 November 1958, had details of a Cambridge University theoretical study for "A two-stroke grand prix engine". This was to be a turbo charged 750 cc engine producing 500 hp at 15,000 rpm. I have kept this copy all these years in the hope that I might try to build a smaller, simpler model. It hasn't happened :(. The article has a very interesting cross section but possible copyright problems has me hesitating to post it here.
Ian
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Hi Ian, good to know that you enjoy the thread. My extra x-mas holidays are finished now and any further progress will slow down.
This engine you mentioned, is surely also an interesting mile stone in the still ongoing development of the IC engines.
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Some further pictures of the progress.
Machining the first side with the boring bar in the wohlhaupter was a bit influenced by a collision between the swarf/chips and the bar, because the chips could´t escape.
The other side was much easier, because the swarf could fall down into the already machined side.
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Glad to see some metal cutting underway :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I will be following this one :wine1:
Hi Roger, good to know you are with me.
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Yesterday and today was the day of the CNC mill to drill all holes.
This little machine has done a proper job as always, but the Quality Manager has rejected the part in the early afternoon.
The complete hole pattern from the upper side is scaled down a bit over the whole length by 2 mm.
After two hours of failure analysis, I have realised that the Fusion DXF Export from yesterday is faulty. :Mad: :Mad: :Mad: :Mad: :Mad:
I. e. CAD Model shows 3,18 mm as dimension, DXF file 3,00 mm only.
No idea why, because done the same procedure today has given a proper result.
I will try to discuss this with the Autodesk people.
A new block of Aluminium is ordered and I have to remake the part.
What was learned, never trust a DXF Export in future any more without to recheck the dimensions and result of it.
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Oh no! I feel your pain. Have you got a good Anglo-Saxon vocabulary? The air is usually blue when it happens to me!
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Hi Ian, thanks for the sympathy. In the meantime I have got a new aluminium block and the first machining steps are already done.
New block, new luck.
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Was it impossible to plug the wrong holes Achim ?
I think I would continue with the "mangled" first try, if not for anything else, but to insure that no other errors has found their way into the design .....
Best wishes
Per
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Hi Per,
below a picture.
Black is the correct DXF export.
Red is the faulty one.
I have seen, that the radii at the two slots were replaced by straight lines, what I have corrected in the CAM program, but I did no realizes the scaling done of the whole thing.
So, putting the right lower corner as the reference for machining it was giving the totally wrong hole pattern as seen in the picture.
Until today I do not know what has caused the wrong DXF export at that specific day, because the 3D model is unchanged.
Fusion360 is in permanent contact with it´s home server and since X-mas we have a very bad network connection here in Munich, this may be could be a reason for that phenomenon.
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Argh - it's not only the holes as I thought, but everything - what a bummer :censored:
I hope this doesn't happen again ( but you will check for this the next many times I'm sure ) in the future.
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Hi everybody, some more progress.
Gear train in motion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WGTpWzmFmo
The stands and the water inlet is done.
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That is a real bummer Achim, but glad to see that you have it all sorted out now. The gear train looks fantastic too!!!
Bill
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Achim,
Great progress. I hope you sorted out the glitch.
Art
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Bill, Art good to know you are still with me.
Today I have started the liner story.
First cutting some bar stock in pieces, 4 plus one set up part.
The usual process including the final honing was done with all five pieces.
My piston rings are 24 mm, that was the target. I get it managed to get 3 pieces with 23,99 mm, one with 24,00 mm and the set up part with 24,02 mm.
Honing seems to be successful too.
Next to do, a mandrel for the liners. Target is to get them 0,04 mm bigger than the bore in the cylinder block.
My first attempt with the "set up" liner in the messed up cylinder block was o.k.
So hopefully next week end I will be able to repeat this procedure 4 times with my real new cylinder block.
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All liners are in the block now.
Some measurement and machining of the relevant outer diameter in accordance to the bore in the aluminium block was done.
Unfortunately #1 get stuck 2/3 of its way.
I took a chair climbed up at it and tried it with the weight of my half body, no chance.
A medium propane torch and some heat in the middle of the block has given the necessary clearance for pushing the liner into the block.
The other 3 liners could be press fitted without any further problem.
Some red high temperature sealing was used also, to avoid any coolant later in the combustion chamber.
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Good progress :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Are those CNC cut gaskets?
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Hi Roger, I do own this little plotter since a couple of years, brilliant for gasket cutting from a dxf file.
https://www.hobbyplotter.de/shop/pi.php/Hobbyplotter/silhouette-portrait-2-organizer-buch-bundle.html
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Some progress with the crank shaft bearings.
7075 Aluminium for the bearing blocks, RG7 (similar to 660) bronze for the bearing bushes and SS for the fitting sleeves.
Bearing bushes are press fitted with 0,05 mm oversize.
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Achim,
Looks like it's all starting to come together and look like a real engine. Great progress so far. Just a word of warning, when you get it running don't wipe away the oil spatters with a rag while its running, winds up on the rag & stalls it right quick. I saw that once at Cabin Fever.
Art
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Achim,
Looks like it's all starting to come together and look like a real engine. Great progress so far. Just a word of warning, when you get it running don't wipe away the oil spatters with a rag while its running, winds up on the rag & stalls it right quick. I saw that once at Cabin Fever.
Art
Hi Art, If it will run, than I would be happy to immolate my best and nicest rap for this way to stall it once. :lolb:
Thanks for watching and the good advice.
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There is not a lot to see, but is really work to get 3 bearing blocks each side in line.
For the moment everything is fine, the dummy shafts can be turned by hand.
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There is not a lot to see, but is really work to get 3 bearing blocks each side in line.
I got absolutely no argument against that statement - au contraire - nice work so far Achim.
I've been doing drawings for a 3+2 Axis CNC mill for the last several month .... and to me that seems like a long time with slow progress .... so I know the feeling.
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I'm with Per on this one. I've been spending the last couple month's working on moving prints of an engine into CAD. And when I needed a break what did I do but pick another and start over. :wallbang:
Art
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Per, Art thanks for watching.
Today the crank shaft bearing blocks together with the dummy shaft are finished and everything has get a run in with the lathe.
The bore at the bearing block in the middle was increased from 8mm to 10mm, because this is the final diameter of the middle crank shaft bearing.
A brass dummy is glued with Loctite 648 to the dummy shaft and machined on the lathe to final size.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqwfJ5aBFSE
The rest of the day was used to make the flywheels.
They will be fixed with industrial clamping sets from SIT-LOCK, easy to prepare and with a very good function.
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Coming along very nicely Achim! I love all the visible moving bits.
Charlie
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Hi Charlie, good to know that you are still watching the progress.
Outside we have 10 cm new snow and inside was the day of the con rods.
Started by a rest of a 8 mm 7075 plate which was offered at ebay.
I have made some more pictures, so it should be self explaining.
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... and part two.
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So five piston opposed twin :) :) :) Spares are always good to have :ThumbsUp:
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So five piston opposed twin :) :) :) Spares are always good to have :ThumbsUp:
Hi Roger,
#0 is my set up part for all machinig steps.
Unfortunately it is already obsolete, 0,2 mm under size in the width, due to the stupid guy at the band saw.
He was not able to cut at the right side beside the line. :facepalm:
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My computer was fed with the outer shape and the pocket, so he was able to do the job alone. I made a simple stop at two sides on the mill table, for 5 times repeating the same thing.
For reference only, the big bolts are M6 and the bolt in the small eye is M4.
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Hi everybody, I have tried to find the best way for piston making. Lost two pieces during machining trials but at the end there should be enough now to get the 4 good pieces for this engine.
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Nice progress on the opposed piston twin Achim. Good to see an update on this one.
Bill
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Now we have a six piston opposed twin :) How are the gudgeon pins retained on this engine?
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Hi Bill, thanks for watching.
Hi Roger, wrist pins will be made by 5 mm silversteel.
Each side will get a small brass plug, so the pins are floating.
The Hoglet was done with the same concept and it runs quite well so far.
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Today I have found a job for the Emco Unimat toy lathe.
The piston fits perfect in that 50 mm chuck.
A family shot of the parts so far.
The making of the gudgeon pins with brass plugs fitted with Loctite.
A first trial of pushing a piston with ring in the liner and a final family shot of all still usable parts.
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Looking great!
That Unimat is just like the first lathe I had, used it for making ship model parts. Wow, that was a long time ago!
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Nice set of pics Achim.
It's an interesting engine. :popcorn:
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My Dad had Unimat but it was painted gray as I recall. That goes back a long ways but its still a classic.
Bill
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Hi Achim, I see you are still ready for the 5 piston version :)
Is the Sit Lock below the type you used? I have also been looking at the Sigerist version.
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Chris, Carl and Bill thanks for watching my progress.
Hi Roger, yes same manufacturer Sit, same seller Conrad, but smaller size.
https://www.conrad.de/de/spannsatz-sit-cal3-815-innen-durchmesser-8-mm-aussen-durchmesser-ohne-flansch-15-mm-1000866.html
Perhaps I should try to ad the half of my mishap cylinder block and we will get finally a triple opposed piston engine :lolb:
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Hi everybody,
crank shaft #1 is done.
First time for me to do it from bar stock, but finaly the result was o.k.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvGfVakSR18
Next to do crank shaft #2.
Some pictures are available also, let me know if it could be from interest to show it here, please.
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...
Next to do crank shaft #2.
Some pictures are available also, let me know if it could be from interest to show it here, please.
Would be great to see the other pics too!
:popcorn:
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Nice crank Achim and movement - always following along - so yes please post more :ThumbsUp:
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Achim,
I always enjoy seeing how other people do things, sometimes it's a great idea I incorporate into into my own work. Great to see your progress.
Art
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Chris, Per, Art thank you.
Over the entire process I have made a lot ofl pictures, so it will be split on several postings.
I have used the Swiss ETG100 from Steeltec as material, which should be the European version of 1144 Stressproof.
Unfortunately the material is available in round bars only, I didn't find a source for plates or rectangular bars.
My band saw is to small to cut the useless pieces away, so the whole story started with a lot off chips.
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... next lot of pictures.
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.... and the last one. Thanks for watching.
Sometimes it is very useful to have more than one lathe, as in this case, when I had to shorten the individual spacers for the crank webs.
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Thanks Achim. That was a bit of work and much appreciated. :ThumbsUp:
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Nicely done :praise2: :praise2: I have usually used C45k for crank shafts which is available as flat material. Im awaiting the video of all the bits going in and out together :wine1:
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Hi Achim
I have been following along with your build but haven't commented on it; everything is looking great!
Thanks for taking the time to post your crankshaft construction methods. I remember hogging a chunk of 1144sp round bar down when I made the crank for the Pacific; lots of chips.
I have wondered about how well this engine would run with what seem to be quite small flywheels? I searched around and found a YouTube video of one running pretty well.
Keep on with the very nice work,
Dave
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Achim,
Those look like a lot of work, and chips to make. Looks great.
Art
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Carl, Roger, Dave and Art, thanks for watching and the always friendly words.
Since this afternoon, we do have two crank shafts.
#2 is already assembled for a bearing clearance check.
Everything seams to work until this point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gmsNKEwl6k
Next to do, is to remove the spacers and to fit it with the con rods and pistons.
Hopefully everything will be still movable after that.
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Great Work Achim - really like that gear train.
Simon.
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Very nice Achim, as always!
The gear train runs very smooth!
Kim
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Achim,
I think there's an echo in the room, everything looks great. The geartrian meshes well,everything fits well, looks great.
Art
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Very nicely done!
:popcorn:
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Simon, Kim, Art and Chris, thank you very watch for watching. Good to know that you are still with me.
Today I have removed the spacers in crank shaft #2 and done a final machining at crank shaft #1.
Some spots for grub screws were missing useful for a eventually needed water pump pulley.
The crank shafts have got some black colour also and the final assembly of the crank drive was done.
A bit tricky, the adjustment of the piston ring gap, I have done it the classic way with a file and a fine stone for deburring.
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After the successful assembly of the crank drive, nothing was really tight, so I come up with my temporary drag test bench on the lathe again.
First step was driven only one side and later both sides together.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/LWmgHUfWabk[/youtube1]
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Looks good, everything in sequence :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Looks good, everything in sequence :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Hi Roger, not really. The proper synchronisation of the two crankshafts was still missing.
I have done it this morning. I do love all these bank holidays in May.
Both crankshaft are blocked with some small wooden chunks.
The whole think to the mill and drilling and reaming two holes for some pins.
Now I hope that I can say crank drive done, timing gear train next.
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Great progress Achim! Coming along nicely! :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Hi Yogi, thanks and good to know you are still following.
I have had a bit remaining bank holiday and started with the camshaft bearing blocks.
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Hi everybody, some more motion is visible.
Second cam shaft not complete finished yet.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/upwtdKws1ps[/youtube1]
Below some pictures of making it.
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Catching up Achim. Loved the videos. :ThumbsUp:
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Looking good Achim.
Art
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Been watching quietly and enjoying but not saying much. As usual,your skills are EXCELLENT :praise2: can't wait to see it run. Terry
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Gotta love that gear train! It looks great Achim!
Kim
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Carl, Art, Terry and Kim, thank you very much for watching and giving friendly comments.
I had a little interruption of this build, due to an incident with my CNC mill.
First, suddenly the x axis did not recognize the switch any more, first picture and second the computer did not recognize the CNC controller any more.
My analysis said, that the very old CNC computer, I have build from rubbish under the bench, decided to get ill after another five years working as a CNC computer.
So also a new refurbished Windows 7 computer was purchased and yes, good opportunity to give the CNC software an up date too
Or in other words, for one week no swarf.
But at the end the cylinder head is made now, a piece of aluminium with several wholes in it.
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Looks great Achim!
Nice update.
Dave
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Bummer about both the end switch and the computer :Mad: ... We had two big thunderstorms a week ago => one dead PC on my work desk Boss pays) and a very dead Internet router at home :zap: :cussing: .... so I got a good idea about how you feel.
Nice work as usual from you and I must admit that this engine is a lot more complex than I first anticipated :praise2:
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Achim,
Just caught up with your progress on this amazing engine.
Excellent workmanship and a very good progress. I am following along.
What CNC control software did you decide to use for the upgrade.
I had some trouble with my LinuxCNC computer last month. I eventually discovered it was small swarf chips getting into the keyboard. Fortunately, cheap and easy to replace.
Mike
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Achim,
Just caught up with your progress on this amazing engine.
Excellent workmanship and a very good progress. I am following along.
What CNC control software did you decide to use for the upgrade.
I had some trouble with my LinuxCNC computer last month. I eventually discovered it was small swarf chips getting into the keyboard. Fortunately, cheap and easy to replace.
Mike
Hi Mike, I am equipped with the EdingCNC system.
http://www.edingcnc.com/index.php?taalid=2 (http://www.edingcnc.com/index.php?taalid=2)
The software is free of charge but you have to buy the special controller.
Advantage of this system is, that the machine code for the mill is created in the extra controller and not in the Windows system.
So all the relevant action for the mill is not Windows related.
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Hi Achim,
There are a number of these stand alone CNC controllers available from different suppliers. Their purpose is to produce a regular and reliable train of pulses for the steppers. This is something that the Windows OS cannot do. All Windows OS's give the Windows "experience" highest priority over any other program, these get fitted in when Windows finds time. The result is irregular step and direction pulses. The stand alone boards, such as the EdingCNC, take over the real time generation of the pulses from Windows.
An alternative is to use LinuxCNC. LinuxCNC is purpose built software prepared to run CNC control in real time. It produces the necessary regular and reliable train of pulses for the steppers. I decided to go the LinuxCNC route with a dedicated PC for each machine, because it allowed me to break totally free from Mr Bill Gates and his magic Windows wonderware.
Mike
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So the CNC mill is back in business again.
A good opportunity to test it with the valve cages.
Nothing special only normal operations.
And the always coming question, "Why do I need a set up part ?"
The answer is very easy, "To hide the broken part of a 1,3 mm drill bit in it."
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Achim,
The head and the valve cages look great. I'd have to say its just a smart thing to make extra parts while it's in the setup. When I made VAL I made extra connecting rod & a bunch of rocker arms, good thing about the rockers because one fell apart after running a while. You never know quite whats going to happen. I am using Tormach's Path Pilot mainly because it's a Linux based system, and avoids the pitfalls of Windows. Great work.
Art
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Coming along nicely :praise2: :praise2: I'm glad you sorted your CNC problems without too much pain :) That's a step I still need to make ::)
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A little closer all the time Achim, the valve cages look great in the family shot!
Dave
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Hi Roger thanks.
In this case it has been a classic hardware computer problem. Nothing to do with CNC or the creature between keyboard and chair. Good luck for your comming adventure. I still do have a lot of fun with this CNC mill.
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Dave and Art, thanks for watching, good to know you are still there.
The valves are the next parts to attack.
I do have a kind of standard process in the mean time, which is for me the best and easiest way to make them.
Hopefully the pictures giving a good overview.
The small radius cutter is turned by 45° and used as shear cutting tool to get a good surface on these SS (1.4305) valve shafts.
All these jobs were done last weekend.
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And the next part of the valve story.
When I was just parting off the last of my five valves today, the lathe stopped suddenly.
Reason for that, the v belt was broken. Not surprising because due to noises which could be heard in the last months.
I didn´t take care about, because I have bought spare ones some time ago.
Unfortunately the dealer has sent me the wrong ones, but this I had to recognise today when I wanted to use it.
A good opportunity to try plan B, taking the Unimat toy lathe under the arm and I went into the garden.
First time I used the ER20 collet holder with the Unimat, working quit well if you cut only 0,1 to 0,2 mm.
Next to do, drilling the 1 mm holes for the pins.
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As Jo says you can't have to many lathes :) :) :wine1:
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Hi Roger,
yes, Jo is right.
But in the meantime I have got a new v-belt for the big lathe and could go ahead with making further parts for the Opposed Twin.
We have had a very hot summer here in Munich, with daily temperatures over 35 °C, so it was not really fun to be in my shop under roof, but some minor progress was achieved. The spring retainers were made next and also the cams with the help of the CNC mill......
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... next to so, valve grinding.
I have made some research under the USB microscope and was surprised about what could be seen there by using my standard grinding process.
For the first valve I have used the diamant grinding paste as always. The valve to valve seat connection was fine confirmend by the usual vacuum test, but the surface was looking horrible, in my opinion.
Picture #4 is showing the valve after the lathe operation.
So I have tried another finer grinding paste, see picture #5 and the grinding result of a proper sealed valve in picture #6 and #7.
I think I have found a better process to seal valves now.....
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....now it was time to cut the valves to length and to adjust the valve clearance.
Last weekend, I have made the exhaust and the inlet manifold.
Both are soft soldered with a 250°C tin solder...
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... and here the last pictures of the exhaust pipe and start of the intake manifold, the reference bolt is M1,6 at the last picture....
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... and here we are today.
Next to do, ignition.
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You have made a tremendous amount to progress Achim. Beautiful work as usual. It will not be long before we see a running engine
Mike
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Looking really good.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Nice progress Achim :ThumbsUp:
I must admit that it isn't obvious to me how you adjust the valve clearance - do you move the cam shafts ever so slightly :noidea:
Best wishes
Per
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Just getting caught back up with your build Achim. Very nice work and a fine looking engine!!
Bill
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Terrific work!
:popcorn:
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Nice progress Achim, everything is looking great!
Beautiful work as always.
Dave
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I always enjoy watching your work Achim. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Excellent progress in spite of our rather hot summer :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: My cellar is still fairly cool but the good weather tempts me to spend the weekends out in nature :) :wine1:
What USB microscope do you have?
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Mike, Thomas, Per, Bill, Chris,Dave, Carl and Roger thank you for the friendly words.
It is always a pleasure to post here and getting some positive response.
Per, I have shorten the valves to nearly final length at the lathe with a normal cutter.
Checking the right dimension of each valve was made by grinding the shaft in 0,1 mm steps with the Dremel in the lathe until I could measure 0,2 mm of clearance.
Some more often assembly and disassembly was necessary for each valve.
Roger the USB microscope I use, is from ALDI-Süd, it was sold more as a toy than a tool.
It is called USB Traveller Mikroskope and can be found currently at ebay-Kleinanzeigen for less than 20 EUR with software.
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-traveller-usb-mikroskope/k0
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Hi everybody,
another minor progress was made with the ignition system.
Mr. Kelley has designed his own points in a casing behind one flywheel, as shown in the first picture.
For this I have had bought an older used motorcycle coil with two high voltage outlets as in picture #2.
In the meantime the Hoglet was build with the S/S ignition system and I have rejected the idea to build the point version for the OPT engine.
I would like to use the Hoglet Hall sensor system also for the OPT engine and the Kelley design was reworked as shown in picture #3.
The hardware was quickly made, picture #4.
With my little hall sensor tester I could easily check and confirm the function.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/_uUnpBLqZmE[/youtube1]
Next job was to play a bit with the layout of the cooling, last picture.
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Not long now :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
What are the water pump and radiator you are using? Be aware of the specification of the pumps, a lot are based on automotive windscreen washer pumps and are not continuously rated (unless you lower the supply voltage).
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Hi Roger,
both the pump and radiator has been found at ebay. Both from China, the radiator was something around EUR 14 and the pump around EUR 5 (including shipment).
The radiator was sold for a water cooled computer cooling system.
So to be honest, until now I have no idea what I did get there.
Additional I have a similar pump under the bench but with 220 Volt e-motor and in my mind also the build of a mechanical water pump.
So some experiments will be made in the near future and I will let you know what the result was.
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Hi everybody, after losing the bearing pin of one idler (making a new one) and some small damage at the camshaft bearing block (rework was possible), I could make a small video of the first run.
All this damage happend during the process of finding the right ignition timing and carb set up.
Next to do, to complete the cooling system, so hopefully longer runs and more set work will be possible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q01GtVVgxNU
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Hi Achim,
Beautiful engine and beautiful work.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Excellent :praise2: :wine1: Hopefully the pins will stay in place now :)
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Congrats Achim on the first run! :ThumbsUp:
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Excellent :praise2: :wine1: Hopefully the pins will stay in place now :)
Hi Roger, unfortunately no, the second one cam out, too, some minute ago.
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Congratulations on first run :cheers: :ThumbsUp:
I hope that you soon will fix the niggle points that teases you here ;)
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Congratulations on a running engine.---Brian
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Thomas, Roger, Carl, Per, Brain
thank your very much for watching and the friendly comments.
First to do now, pins from SS for the small gears too and bronze bushes to be pressed into the small gears.
The pins made from bronze seems to be to soft for clamping with the M4 grub screw.
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Hello Achim,
Congratulations on achieving the first run with this interesting and very unusual engine.
Hope it will not take too long for you to sort out the teething problems.
Prost :cheers:
Mike
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Congratulations Achim. I second what Mike said. A very interesting engine indeed.
-Bob
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Hey Achim! Great run! And you've done a beautiful job on the engine (as always). Sorry about the pin, I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
But it sure ran nice!
Kim
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Hi Achim,
Congratulations on the first run!
Dave
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Mike, Bob, Kim and Dave, thanks for following and the friendly words. It is always good to know, to have you around the globe and watching my attempts.
As already said some weeks ago, the small idler gears got some bronze bushes and bearing pins, made from SS now.
The starter starter driver got a heat treatment, hopefully with success, because the used steel is similar to the the US 12L14, which has a very low carbon content.
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.. also the set screws were changed, now used is the cup point version and fixed with Loctite now.
Next to do, cooling.
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That looks like it should stay together now :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I'm awaiting the next trials :) :wine1:
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That looks like it should stay together now :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I'm awaiting the next trials :) :wine1:
Hi Roger, I hope it will.
The cooling system is closed now.
Some epoxy glue to connect the parts.
Test run was sucessfully.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zlUuTSwjUg
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Today was also the day of the first long runs.
Shortly interrupted by losing my exhaust pipes.
So it is clear now, it was no good idea to try soft soldering, also not with high temperature, 250° C soft solder, it does not fit.
But at the end a good test day, I have burned some fuel also without the exhaust pipes.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/mp_kAubuuv8[/youtube1]
A jig will be made soon, to do a hard soldering of the exhaust.
The little Chinese water pump does not work when the engine is running.
Perhaps the vibrations of the running engine are to much for it, because immediately after the engine stops running the flow is back.
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Hi Achim,
Congratulations on another successful run with this very interesting engine. You will soon have the bugs sorted out, I am sure.
Mike
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Hello Achim,
It surely does sound good and very smooth. :ThumbsUp:
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hi Achim, the engine sounds good :praise2: :praise2: The water pump though is not so good. In the first video it doesn't sound stable, possibly cavitating :headscratch: Did you reduce the voltage at the end because it seemed to slow down? The pump I am using on my petrol injection is running at 5V instead of the rated 12V.
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Hi Achim, the engine sounds good :praise2: :praise2: The water pump though is not so good. In the first video it doesn't sound stable, possibly cavitating :headscratch: Did you reduce the voltage at the end because it seemed to slow down? The pump I am using on my petrol injection is running at 5V instead of the rated 12V.
Hi Roger, the slown down was caused by reducing the voltage from 12 to 9 Volt.
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Hi Achim
Nice idle :praise2:
Is the cooling pump running on the same power supply as the ignition ?
If so - are you sure it doesn't drop or have some really bad noise disturbing the pump (if it is a modern AC motor feed from an internal DC/AC IC) ?
Best wishes
Per
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Sweet running engine Achim! 8)
Simon
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Very nice Achim! You will work out the small bugs and it will be even more impressive!
Dave
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Achim,
Sounds great! you'll get the problems all sorted out in no time.
Art
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Really nice running engine, Achim!
Kim
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Per, Simon, Dave, Art and Kim thank you very much for watching and the friendly comments.
In the meantime the exhaust pipes are silver soldered.
If interested here some pictures of the jig making.
I thought, if a CAD model is available, it make sense to use also.
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And now the soldering job itself.
This "Wite Out" has again done a perfect job, also with the M 1,6 mm bolts here.
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And finally the engine again in action with the new soldered exhaust pipe.
It is running more smooth in the meantime.
[youtube1]https://youtu.be/Oh0ppJerhnQ[/youtube1]
Next to do, a mechanical driven centrifugal water pump.
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Beautiful!
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Fantastic running engine Achim! Well done! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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It sounds really nice Achim.
-Bob
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A great result Achim. Running beautifully.
I have been following nearly from the start.
Thank you for the detailed photos of the silver soldering. That jig is the secret to the result. What material is the block for the jig?
MJM460
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Achim great job soldering that exhaust manifold. The opposed engine runs great. Now that you have It running just let the oil splatter and keep the rags away from the gears. :lolb:
Art
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That's a great exhaust note!
Pete
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Hi Achim
Nice idle :praise2:
Is the cooling pump running on the same power supply as the ignition ?
If so - are you sure it doesn't drop or have some really bad noise disturbing the pump (if it is a modern AC motor feed from an internal DC/AC IC) ?
Best wishes
Per
Hi Per, the ignition and pump power supply are from two different sources.
During my playing around with the engine yesterday I have had one moment with low revs were suddenly the pump was able to push the water through the circle.
So I think this little pump with its magnet driven rotor is not able to work against the frequency of the water jacket.
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A great result Achim. Running beautifully.
I have been following nearly from the start.
Thank you for the detailed photos of the silver soldering. That jig is the secret to the result. What material is the block for the jig?
MJM460
MJM460, thanks for watching.
The jig was made from a piece of cold rolled steel.
It was not the best idea to go this way, because a lot heat was necessary.
Next time I would try it with a piece of square tube or angle steel.
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Thanks Achim,
I wondered if the heat absorption was a problem and how you tackled it. Using a box or channel makes sense, it has to be strong enough to ensure the flanges are accurately set and your simple jig is way better than any I have tried, which is probably why I try to avoid the necessity. I have been playing with dimensions for flanges recently, so I will try your method when I am ready to solder some.
I think I will avoid those M1.6 bolts for the first few, though I have done some M2 so perhaps a size smaller is not too far away.
MJM460
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Thanks Achim,
I wondered if the heat absorption was a problem and how you tackled it. Using a box or channel makes sense, it has to be strong enough to ensure the flanges are accurately set and your simple jig is way better than any I have tried, which is probably why I try to avoid the necessity. I have been playing with dimensions for flanges recently, so I will try your method when I am ready to solder some.
I think I will avoid those M1.6 bolts for the first few, though I have done some M2 so perhaps a size smaller is not too far away.
MJM460
The source is far away from the place where you live, but may be something similar is available done under and could be very helpful for your project.
https://www.bengs-modellbau.de/en/tools/soldering-and-brazing/98/soldering-paste
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: Your experience in making pipework for the Snow certainly paid off :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Will a centrifugal pump work well at those speeds or would a gear pump be better :headscratch:
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: Your experience in making pipework for the Snow certainly paid off :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Will a centrifugal pump work well at those speeds or would a gear pump be better :headscratch:
Thanks Roger.
Concerning the pump type, in my understanding a gear pump will be used if pressure is the main need and not flow, like oil pumps. My idea is to make a similar centrifugal pump like the one for the Show engine, because of it is easy to adjust the flow with the ratio of the belt drive.
I know already that 900 revs of this centrifugal pump is given a good flow, so by measuring the idle speed of the oposed piston engine it should be easy to define the right ratio.
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Hi Achim, thanks for that tip. I will look it up. I guess these days nothing is further away than the computer screen and delivery truck, though postage can be the killer.
The big advantage of a centrifugal pump is that it is not positive displacement. Once you have one working at some known speed, you can alter the flow by a simple throttle valve in the discharge water line, or if you use plastic tubing even a simple squeeze clamp.
To increase or decrease the flow once you have one working, you can use the simple formula flow is proportional to rpm, and head is proportional to (rpm) squared.
If you just need a larger pump all over, you can scale it up by using impeller diameter, instead of rpm in those formula.
With a gear pump, flow is proportional to rpm, and the pressure determined by the system, not the pump so long as you have enough power to drive it and the pressure doesn't break anything. So not so flexible.
MJM460
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Hi MJM460,
thank you very much for the additional information of centrifugal vs gear pump, very useful.
Due to some hard workload in the other life during the last months shop time was nearly not available.
But now I have started a batch of 3 water pumps.
Basically the same procedure as used 3 years ago.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,4060.msg84181.html#msg84181
The housings and impellers are finished now, the covers with the water inlet will be made soon.
One pump will be used for this OPT engine, here the direction of rotation is clear, so the water outlet is drilled already.
The two other pumps are for future projects, where the overall details of set up and pump integration are not clear yet, so no drilling of the water outlet done until now.
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I've been quietly watching your progress with this very interesting engine. It was good to see it running. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Nice work on the water pumps. You should get good flow at low speeds with those big impeller blades. How will you plan to couple it to the engine?
Mike
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I've been quietly watching your progress with this very interesting engine. It was good to see it running. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Nice work on the water pumps. You should get good flow at low speeds with those big impeller blades. How will you plan to couple it to the engine?
Mike
Thanks Mike.
Just drawn this morning, a pulley at one crankshaft end.
One crankshaft was made already 10 mm longer at this end.
The pump will be driven by a 5x220x1 mm T150 Neoprene flat belt.
If it will work as created in my head.
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Those are some interesting looking pumps :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I will be interested in how they perform. I don't know it the tolerances will be less critical than a gear pump :headscratch:
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Hi Achim, you are very welcome. Those simple rules are known as the affinity laws, and they work very well on turbo machinery, whether it be pumps or compressors. They are used to scale performance up or down from a tested prototype. Use of these rules means the manufacturers only have to test one of a range of geometrically similar machines, rather than test every size separately, to predict performance over a wide range of sizes. As you have a pump with satisfactory performance, you can use these rules to scale up or down for a different model, and know what the resulting performance will be.
If you modify the geometry, a new test is necessary, and there are some simple improvements to the basic impeller shape that would increase the performance of the “base model” before it is scaled. I wait with interest to see what the extra pumps are to be used for.
Roger, the centrifugal pump is not dependent on the clearances around the impeller for sealing as is necessary in a positive displacement machine such as a reciprocating pump, gear pump or a vane pump. The pressure comes from the dynamic energy imparted to the fluid by the rotating blades. Needless to say this means they must run at reasonable rpm, as the pressure and flow generated will be very low at low rpm.
The clearances are important of course. Clearance means that some of the flow can return down on the cover side of the impeller, and recirculate, instead of increasing the flow at the discharge, rather like loose piston rings, so some close clearances are introduced in a more sophisticated pump design to restrict this recirculating without introducing unnecessary friction. But the rotating blades still produce the pressure. In a compressor, labyrinths are used for this purpose.
MJM460
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Hi everybody, the pump is finished and working like hell.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw6NcMXv1WQ
MJM460, thank you for all your information.
My chosen ratio, in accordance to the D.Kelley flow chart of this pump, seems to be successfully.
Next to do some fine tuning of the carb and a fuel cell.
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Hi Achim.
That pump looks very nice and you appear to have plenty of coolant flow. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
What fluid are you using for the coolant?
Mike
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That seems to work well :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: and the engine sounds good :praise2:
Looking at the drawings the impeller is just over 30mm diameter. What size pipes are you using?
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Very good engine running (constant rpm and sound) and now a nice efficient pump too :ThumbsUp:
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Hi Achim.
That pump looks very nice and you appear to have plenty of coolant flow. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
What fluid are you using for the coolant?
Mike
Hi Mike,
some month ago I have bought a lot of 5 bottles from this stuff at ebay.
The main reason for my choise was the color, only.
I don´t like the "poison" green or "strawberry" read fluids in my model engines.
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That seems to work well :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: and the engine sounds good :praise2:
Looking at the drawings the impeller is just over 30mm diameter. What size pipes are you using?
Hi Roger,
rotor diameter is 31,75 mm.
The inlet pipe is a 8x0,5 mm brass tube, outlet is 6x0,5 mm.
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Very good engine running (constant rpm and sound) and now a nice efficient pump too :ThumbsUp:
Hi Per, thanks.
Now it is time for some long runs.
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Hi Achim, those pumps turned out very well. I like the casing design, simple and effective, like the impellers. Nice when the little auxiliaries work well to compliment a great engine build.
A fascinating engine and wonderful to see it running. A real testament to your skills.
MJM460
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Hi Mike,
some month ago I have bought a lot of 5 bottles from this stuff at ebay.
The main reason for my choise was the color, only.
I don´t like the "poison" green or "strawberry" read fluids in my model engines.
Ha ha, Cool Blue is a much better coolant colour than Toxic Green or Strawberry Pink
Have you seen these smal 80mm aluminium radiators intended for liquid cooled PC's?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Aluminum-PC-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler-kit-For-CPU-Heatsink-UK-tk9/173596712629?hash=item286b2b9eb5:g:xEoAAOSwD~FbybeQ:rk:2:pf:0
Mike
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Hi Mike,
some month ago I have bought a lot of 5 bottles from this stuff at ebay.
The main reason for my choise was the color, only.
I don´t like the "poison" green or "strawberry" read fluids in my model engines.
Ha ha, Cool Blue is a much better coolant colour than Toxic Green or Strawberry Pink
Have you seen these smal 80mm aluminium radiators intended for liquid cooled PC's?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Aluminum-PC-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler-kit-For-CPU-Heatsink-UK-tk9/173596712629?hash=item286b2b9eb5:g:xEoAAOSwD~FbybeQ:rk:2:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80mm-Aluminum-PC-Radiator-Water-Cooling-Cooler-kit-For-CPU-Heatsink-UK-tk9/173596712629?hash=item286b2b9eb5:g:xEoAAOSwD~FbybeQ:rk:2:pf:0)
Mike
Hi Mike,
just got one in 80 mm with fan for under EUR 10,00 from far East.
There ist also 60 mm available for EUR 8,00 or so, also one in my stock now.
The OPT engine is equiped with the 120 mm version.
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Achim, looks like you just about have everything sorted out. A fine looking and running OPT, job well done!!
Bill
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Achim, looks like you just about have everything sorted out. A fine looking and running OPT, job well done!!
Bill
Thanks Bill.
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Achim,
The water pump looks good, you should be ready for a good run in session now.
Art
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Thanks Art. Fuel cell is finished now, so will try some fine adjustment now.