Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: tinglett on January 10, 2017, 04:02:27 AM

Title: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 10, 2017, 04:02:27 AM
I've been wanting to build the Rocking Valve Mill Engine since I first saw it.  It's a bit beyond my skill, but we'll see where I end up when I'm done :).

Here's a photo of the engine from the book "The Shop Wisdom of Jesse Livingston" which can still be purchased from Village Press.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ArCwBQzQ38MC2k-2LGEz1eMylk-4ZLFGJ5caE1YXIPjG0oSKzUPbsV9l-BfDzFefInbIJYCHjkt5Nf4a4kxwCR9ZyXyngjh9YtmpD9OdwzCldqyiRhbkENFvkcHU4NvphRl0-aN61Z1BdoW2xdgQ0DG3mFDIUyq_DEg2PZBhL4GA-mYEHCo4SzzOi6etA0p5YA5hNJEqZPomwX3KZLyUeHQqUm0GY3wC4xnReNV9PdGCJ0rVunWBZ8SISHuMCXCZb1CRhioUaS9Z4PPGxPwwvqW53ZzpIfD9p7LwGgF9-5C8dFWEGiqn49v8R4n5XQnw91WRjNewZkp2aBiKbxUTi1a3bVQ1Tm2IGlCynlRWoHMNRfv51f-hVRlK9Fv1e-ioN4pSPBRQ8l6pRz2Qqj8CCiqtFZtl6tOr7KlSw7m7lAuyRfk3Sr171nvkBo-4CbOci-o1Va-TdG3AQPJ_wW8YAjRtMWIYidYb9mQw0GR7UNQIFfPt-xt5TUkvLYAPAGRe95CcjVo1A_pkFzPANBMmWhMlWUr33wWxdI6bc2PeJdvYIgcHj2xG-dUaC7Z7vmR9yHHf-Oz0VMfCHsHF-t-wU-dWVPg1Yh7OodXank56EiI8XUPmiBxG8HWG5WAGFzntjgi_0aeqxC_oADRMKzYd5_VW0z7sAWaHKzrSZ3qHIxk=w470-h398-no)(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gf21rQf5ItNUcz6MVRQ-y4BrAH_3jLE9St0KEcRR-MohwdcZXUxjT286CAdLwRqnb36jCiQoz2reVHXpRYGa3PWHjdqLfBqGGNEY5glksjiYquGQ_2SCplYWihAyowZeVEScIkDIRtsyBDDmoAC0y_XkBMJZ12IlTcv1r9vGtea_ehEMPetXshJDghGSjSxWx2qw-l2AteUDxH5TmFmgqTyZbrV7FA6ZBacn8x3gPzkLfAM39TSpoRxRWcIv28htnsMb1rzzeF8GAehWV-jYRoNmriLepuyofbOzMeGi9pNq0neuyhFaOCsowSwVHOu4eNc589Fjk9X0K4TmW-zyJ4zsaOskLut9jVe6r5V_uGbf9ugTpq3ublxoNnrl4uA9QUApdNwQ2AT6qDvKA2W-FQxAmRE53aA7A9dkdow8SHnmrCmJec3umdsFqa1g2AEGCGPhadS6CAhNhpzPLsuQMVBefyEj1TEK6F8KA7vrFmkUmCvzl8GyzZsteLDV_9yTRLyf-fDwrxOGJ5nIND1HcPWDbzSlnGw80XAlbfnSjOYHYOG4q1iYEXkPGRXJQIAOoS1Se2g1hEm8byi7qqNF7-xOWe11Aun5j3jv7go3RP_KEW2oF6g7OCYEwWVWsJognv_QLf5r-D1qRX03kxU6buGFsVZvNF3VNUtu-mjNnUc=w518-h388-no)

The engine has a 0.75" bore and 1.5" stroke and a flywheel slightly larger than 4".  It has a rocking valve similar to that in a Corliss engine.  And it has a spiffy governor that looks to be almost a full project on its own.  Finally, it's entirely fabricated from bar stock.

I already built a flywheel for this engine over in a Fabricating a Flywheel thread over in Engine Ancillaries:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6600.0.html

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e4xZm3mxBh-4bFYaJR_RuEUbPNcPvL4tzq77jcD6envWWX1gETsBiX_3wujJ8Ez94_n7SfTYWYkmDtSwat6PCz7KBEwgycaL1uTeIjkdzA453uZlCenhiFoAK4tTEnssQaj6lqrfO1nstdmiXL7Agf55g3fW4VLy-NxmCUFt9sNqJJeoG2EsL4fhWKNm8P9CmFhtGMVQF-TMVjJTD_1FnGCmbufW9s5lyV2HFA66AvKAQ_duYz6pQPGiGxaWiAZaEWD2mz7Nxr1Z5yU43-K8dtSAf8P2groJq5ZkvaBlQpCMQbSeCdfBrrlQtkvrM39uhAN7hbhJ8X2Fv3Djz2czAB7jJ_X0gMtIa6rvZ1on28E_cw7eJV8wGgH9l6yYKxg8a74aJoHb1vZSRedce52fj7Z07ifnyzVpbGFYP3zjc20Cb4RGVLbDfqWqwaRPA2gqhRG0sRCqFw6tF5Q_DVpTCBVszyYVgNeFeiWa8jMw2QCHRXdXwlj0ztaKaOQk66jw0RG0GX4lKL0JEj4INLaIxJjzKPv8SPaQPSxPmmkUQCYRM6at5rTJDeWQDu2NXB_YIPXu9ezcd2dhCg6Q-Q0qIiS7Wp4WaIyixqMKZe4sWjNnfJ-En7P_tcDDVUmmu6xUTODX8KcgOjxxYpZi72htAF9pz-pQ-3bHpDkshsjLNlU=w518-h388-no)

Looking through the article, I can see I'm going to learn a little.  This will require some soft or silver soldering...so I think it's high time I learn how to silver solder (I can easily soft solder copper pipe for plumbing, if that helps).  The frame fairing is bent from brass -- another operation that'll be a bit new for me.  And who knows what else.  But it looks like a mighty fine engine, so I'm heading down this road whether it's a good idea or not!  Well, and I also got a start on it over the weekend, so I'll get that part written up asap.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on January 10, 2017, 04:07:29 AM
Great project Todd, and your flywheel already looks terrific!! The new skills will be fun to learn too. Already looking forward to the build log.

Bill
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 10, 2017, 11:57:26 AM
Good morning Todd  :)

I will be following your thread on this lovely little engine and yes, thanks to your kind help and encouragement to do so, will be following behind with my 125% build in due course.

I note the emphasis on 'rocking' as opposed to rotary which of course it is - funny how things get stuck in ones head ::)

Good luck with your engine, you already have a good start with that flywheel - great work on how you milled those spokes BTW

Kind Regards (and again, many thanks) - Ramon

Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on January 10, 2017, 01:42:52 PM
Jump right in Todd...don't be afraid of it.

Great support group here.

Dave
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on January 10, 2017, 01:43:45 PM
I'll look forward to following along too, a few recent e-mail between Ramon and myself has got me interested in this engine.

Who knows might add it to the 24mm bore engines I have been working on as it would be an easy 1mm = 1/32" conversion to metric.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: sco on January 10, 2017, 03:15:20 PM
That does look an interesting engine - are the plans only available in that book?

Simon.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on January 10, 2017, 03:47:40 PM
I think it was also in an old issue of Live Steam

https://webmail.tiscali.co.uk/cp/ps/Mail/ExternalURLProxy?d=lineone.net&u=jasonballamy&url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vapor-vivo-V36-n-2-marzo-abril-2002-Molino-de-valvula-de-balanceo-de-la-Jesse-Livingston-de-motor-/401031647325::cp::2915::cp::_ul::cp::61::cp::BO::cp::38::cp::amp;nma::cp::61::cp::true::cp::38::cp::amp;si::cp::61::cp::shsqmo8lqKuhIfVLJtTfWsWkbZg::cp::37::cp::253D::cp::38::cp::amp;orig_cvip::cp::61::cp::true::cp::38::cp::amp;rt::cp::61::cp::nc::cp::38::cp::amp;_trksid::cp::61::cp::p2047675.l2557&urlHash=7.807407595364375E-84
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 10, 2017, 03:51:13 PM
Hi Jason, Simon

Thought this might catch your attention too :D

If you google 'shop history of jesse livingston' you will find a free download of pages. If you have difficulty let me know and I'll you send  a copy of mine

Ah - so who's going to have one for Forncett then  ;D

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: sco on January 10, 2017, 04:08:44 PM
Hi Ramon,

I tried a couple of those free downloads but they seemed to need you to sign-up for something so I bottled it - I'll have another go when I get home tonight.

I'm sure I will have mine built for Forncett - just not this years or next!

Simon.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on January 10, 2017, 04:16:14 PM
I tried one and it had a virus, maybe you could PM or e-mail me the link Ramon.

I could say mine would be done by Fawncett, you would be none the wiser as I'll probably not be there ;)

J

PS Ramon should we be searching for Wisdom rather than history?

EDIT Found it :)
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jo on January 10, 2017, 04:35:54 PM
Found it  :mischief:

Jo
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 10, 2017, 05:03:33 PM
I like the color photo from e-bay!  I hadn't thought about how it should be painted until seeing this.  The book says the articles are from Live Steam so the story lines up.  It's cool to see interest in this little engine.  I hope some of you make one too!  I'd love to see that, and to be honest, it wouldn't hurt for me to see how some parts might be machined :).

I made the first part this past weekend...so here goes some build logging... :)

The Crosshead Trunk

The print calls for the crosshead trunk is machined from 1.375" high x 1.5" x 2.625" brass.  I didn't have that on hand, and I coughed a bit when seeing how much brass would cost, so I took some 1" x 1.25" bar of 1018 steel to start.  I suppose it would help with understanding how this could possibly work if I posted the drawing.   The crosshead trunk is actually only 1" wide, but has feet that spread it out to 1.5".  The book suggests these could be fabricated as bars soldered into grooves at front/back of the trunk.  I took it one step further and decided the whole "base" of the trunk could be made of 0.25 x 1.5 steel and I'd solder the trunk on top of that.  Hopefully, this will make sense when I actually make that part and show it in this build.  But I thought I should point this out immediately for anyone who has the article in hand and is going "huh?" :)

I squared up this block on the mill, and bored 0.75 for the crosshead.  I got to use my spiffy new boring bar.  When I dialed it in in the 4-jaw, I made sure the three sides indicated the same.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b0RZ_x_Bb7bmJOrK_BeNykrg4BNijbSGNQBXcFadgozAOFFnaSyQcyxFfBnhm00YuUnaLmxM5pJQE43ze-l6zFUJQiV8E5-s4ZCSXwPU9NiN6TErSzDerKlOBCb1_WBqB8vEoUPpD9Fym5DIKDqMwOiqp8QQLgrn2g7DhE-4bFreyQ6WlkhHMS4kMB5-cSIDZoWk58fdOTKNpyKHjmPufZTYIr0MQErGyzOzOokqe0dWW2-IyKtSb7KGCSg3ua9T-Eu5UydLaXX7eVvYRZY7FHzJC1lCJ8qv1-TdvpQfnxBS8x58TS1RxPrfDrzhLS3KF5w141Zc9jubH1joBI9DSokgND8n7UQFcBO4dCsIxV_gnRt0py0npw2ooNCfvQfsOcAgRf2PCf9hwNuovAjKX9XYrRHCLpmmjdiqeZGH_HycTGShcRv_V5cOvADGgwKOZMNQjJ9h3TqL0oNbtUzjm6-x05aQzSsQ2CsXMatihhNvI6dRGfEFt0SCjGooWpEKLRFgVOCRyWQ8bd1KauV911gw8Te2d_Cgs_yzN049ROjEn4L7cHD_LaTxsVgamj3pd1h228RuvfjutxCYIe21RCzu5epO7SNiJNYvFsA-3hOC6nYO30-nQGdOYBEcEkVnxzSw3PT97WeskbNMh86hFABd4vBBWBILCppCU9Vyxy4=w740-h555-no)

As the article suggested, I drilled/tapped two holes on the underside (the thick offset side) for grub screws.  These will allow it to be attached to a 0.75" mandrel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lr794Z_wuYifR5j37Bk9o7Ds0lX1GDI9GbXp-Eupqdfl_-NGdIq4V9spS-aSKyKBIeNrDhVcPjHTP_uW9A-iwHBhUDmYKzEcnFTPo1JL_SrvngvhCSFPsp3wvfvOsCfEiFClyqziyBwcSPn6UlEYaGYyVm1_c0doA5iKfx75Fg0n4A6nSOF2Nu_1eDkBRFZyQPFwh_ZJt_5-xsHkStV0MM8RtbIIHz_QIAAtEHIMQVItixGa-3cJRBvLmmbjE2rrxcgx64CGxb7LzTaOyJRkC891MlK4hcf30JDszI1A_ibFTaa37Aqdpe8rwn7jwWeBz-zMdErbJsfzX5HICM-pVxuyOMWECrgxLJm3Opv779eEQuYAa3543Bdoen3fVMNGBToRSkU8vs5kUrM9124xF_6ug8oOVe6E1GEp6VRxKYLRvOCn8zf9WcUBzJfx8CI6FkZiVW08BsNiUOgKs7tNfFd7CgT7iYteZUJNFXUaTT26LSwcJ2LwYhZbegn8I4Xdpsv8-mme9TA92mmEad2ovVYEyOifxuIhWLcOTeRLNYbqe4fPxIIwptoXzkor4-dYGQEFIfL9fvzV5eV-iwM2xQVZYmhjSatr2Pd5pI0_VEwP8DadQGXaViJPzxztOCtBKALfBtFQhb_HVnMDvZzTF5-Mp97D4AcxU42NG6zCV00=w740-h555-no)

Now I need to round over the top of the trunk, so here's my setup.  The article suggests an indexer, which I don't have, but I do have an RT that can run vertical with a tailstock.  But just for giggles, I decided to try a setup with V blocks instead.   You'll note the crosshead trunk has the mandrel installed with the set screws and this is sandwiched between V blocks so it can't shift along the X axis.  I had an ah-ha moment and dropped a rod in the t-track to help with alignment of the V blocks.  The rod wasn't quite big enough, but I pushed on the V blocks (in Y) when I did the final tightening of the clamps holding the blocks to the table.  I was a bit shocked that when I dialed in with the DTI, it was already perfectly aligned!  It's cool when things work out like that.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zWgyLakwegcCMfP1STEyKQe25tCafHTZ6auFPNYSq_81M6oEmDd2qfs-H4Zl56irpx3NQbVRs7sr8zkc9WYcZinZbb_tc8vhPIL2ORh2qX7OOiiyT2FXgbh7gPuMCLOQqKBX22NrTSlzmofT3XMT4ijD31a_aT4hXwvu99ToC3A3ufepjZQbOBP-ujmFSn-Bay-jtxZwFEgX9RteZfBjzGvc0qbXCNQE2EoznIj3Fa7vrSfTRo-i39Xx3cao9wfSmw7-iKUXZf32vB-3sP3zxUmlWu-IEsriWjDWvf96wUwVl5aCETMMlYWdnRaZBRjRFAcwbiV8O5k8M0lCLeQAyRajjpUYgQQVAq61SRs9KIE0e0rSVZYd70S2dcCC76ki7WWh9W4tc-GkMdbfTGKCVxjN6GVwUtQUiKtmy4owUS8Z2RUWv5zXIX1X8uy9kXaVFPiOX3P59CfvRj-_iwPMzNuysFBledY8a1hfHkPJe-vEELdEwmBt3mw5XqYVwTWEQVbsSB8xlBmQZ7JtGewglPSPFnfz-a9jWzW4CbV6m543DdNv4Ella3TSzf7hvWAmiH3yEsNrtsvSvh7ltKHu1mPsRHD4j3xVA3qiFOUkGph3xS0AFZIHRcydmfUrjBOAg9aA0ILo6H_-Cc8PFxeoNCx4APFU-mF9NNPuOBGxSxc=w740-h555-no)

Now it was just a matter of rotating the trunk, tightening down the clamps onto the mandrel, and taking a pass on the mill.  This was a bit tedious, but I set the mill's depth stop to be close (but not all the way) to the final depth.  It was just a matter of going around and making sure I don't go too far where it should be flat on the sides.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vzT1qvr7lYiRHfwRLx54aTSjRCe8uSNeBF5s95I2nBvcFfBQG39CtdV6I7XsY6koHQOwo5WknOcFHk5i_ZtzNJN10kVBES-ny749gNgr2j0viN1H6bxQ8V-Z57UQROPRQgcFMBd2ffWIlgGiZ4eRBiy61wTLhn_gVB6mU3IDPwWLS4S3YzOk1ElyqwLkFKZph9qqtkpbk3d2wU71yKudebDA3ELVOETH8Ux5xLNM_ymM2UK8u_3LhznV4O2vw-f_GIzDEHU5JMWp-RlWJXR_hG_IaLwAcpIg1PF6x7CktDz2adZSu7XanmCYMOpIuAzgVc1TNz-_gx3teTxR2MHMQrRKkbQfcXh8k9iD6ZTlA5yUz0WdTy-YvIQXUVfcFkmVpnqEJ98IaT7D-o9p9ISkOFrAlom0eSlIEywYzfR7RAJn_jCEFW4mavgPTwTENIIR-Sj7KqiRLK8B74btX1e8sMegrGKD5n7HG8b7kb8lh0KRClDJUPiCl7rJ0Qu9kxBsy-IoVlWbylr3q6hUSBPPjKDN9yf4H6K5_M_YsC1PPlY3O1GAOtQAv_damlnUT3PyI7Tti3L8Nmo7SOEgXgRDNSxn1DEE4OVA4jNOU8Af50EiiOfclvN7cJa6Lwz_vC0YMVBifeI6rNDfagTvNKGDSwoLvinV64a-ZOyn4TFr_Uk=w740-h555-no)

When I got to the sides I'd use a square like this to set a starting point, and then (by hand) would rotate it slightly away from square in the right direction to make those last passes.  You can see it's already pretty round over the top in this photo.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bto5U_p_1-ZTImV1dChm9r4AYFJUGxAbMGqWH9OWu3J5CfgupK-DgZZuBrRSOyZMXAhaQ6KPsREr_7O_8hAfzjjNN0P0LoQ9O5znvR72Uxu8Ka2IzUbnUAJk6TuGdVkqr2W99Sdv40OoRGIPdTLfxSL7uNupE1HfagQFpzTK7F5nkpW0aSIyUXadgFXPV6B6lIhiDAkSwbc9BJyI3KX5ln3BegrVQPgiL6a3FAkO40adcXhY1p6G62dIn0f8oLBfkoqW2aB7JPwSSucOFal2pVH5bpW0nHAx8cmBk_pFUc_M1kYKVeydeGvphHVcIHCvm7LwVVr63eCwrNyLI69SZnjDr7dleWJEy6RsOZTKNr0pw2nx5XTS47ozm6ji46ewMzYJjQOSnWpyZodJKQTHdU3C_RuK_ZM2RvDMjFweNpZo8vIUJV1ekmUsKEkNOIU0O1bfS4K6Pes2cbT06X4P6hXqzfurM8sqH94pTRxTyjx43xWmRIFpg63_IjSTeSsCNvYMtsodaDfLAcfqItbE4U-dzd2iawvhQAFB49fBUmFbQZpajbIFOpxS48IjDV6fSbDcfpR3YX624BJZXQHE8eTIksoGFEhXF4rMX_8NfP1Ctsu4YfrTeglnhnZKsPa24MnZ48LKKSDoFN1bQbUazh5iWZl4z4HEiKzNbCmjC58=w740-h555-no)

I took it to this point with the idea that I could file off the facets to finish it off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T_RvhLp_VXT0bqesFbR09Z4dPdH2ucamPmi0jDifqn-S-VubtflcDjaZoP8izsZ40SZqifdvIft3sQq2rQBwZxuuakRx2gkn-667ng5IOz_JpmVvV2YA5bLQ7c1NfIx_1ts8W66bqo_8Xvwl5yISJ6hxHbIIVVAznUNO6JVnlIoPQNanr7bdgYxC170n9etnEKVLMj4fyvXoEiqaCTtCyPEN3d3UgzL6QqDQcA1oBPBdxUBHjaqV_v-lBka4IS8IoY42Hgiy3wCDP7NahNGwoP5z0eXvXTxEE9D72-iJ6QQkB_ybrMgCi3egR1TqF0gOe4GzzWP2r0E-_ppX8AWspRTVIPZ_Ym4wfOy-N0yUTeEndYMEO13-rPN7DTCgZKTNAMTNDnaUlvMZIWgPORzvylNjWQUKyWigl2DXd1w7epsA4PphL5hFPV7lGMVvuM4gt7GoPyq7fa_qpIDOJgigt2JYiXLh3gqUz9bUEzNF6_UJlWggt6Ew4UklEjlHhM6yiuXNKld8gG7NlGmWvB5S-pWp8YUWubnFOau81C_INojL8ds4zX8V4_Me7s26Gn3KkovRx_3gbMp_Rwx5cGvviKrH13cDJr2EzddTJ4v6_UIJSS03fRdMmOMGMFlezE6uQazSIKcEfIbll6MIUmJXVfFcmbiNhZtJJHbv9Wb-6Rg=w740-h555-no)

Next, it was time to cut out the side opening.  I decided to go with the book's idea to cut into the mandrel.  In hindsight, I really don't think the rotation helped at all.  The cut along the top is at such a small angle that I believe anyone making this engine could simply place this part in a vice and mill out a rectangle instead.  But I followed the book.  So I ran the end mill off the edge to touch it down to the mandrel and set the depth stop, and then went at it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ollgDgu8X1b8CAu77N7u5eP4XmgySqRrEvRcBlzM0YifMUMQYtDiPuvP76if7Iip9o--K5o0Acm1TZgH53LYmIS7nPSx5NFrMxhgEGEL8OuHdgrIZYHrIVs0lEfSYZxdTyTqtzug86apg4OOTrgKj-PvErr2gWgDcwP2tMLjwrqvauN5FN6M-MLtWEIzfxQv_2xDdQw3f146Q9ic3w8smFYmIFnhR5izfAm6uh3jKvnK1PlIx2_kygvNF_VMtGXoDpAAYbvZX3VX0RbBpSrQKq2XPxnHNE8RuDar6m19pRy-hFkqcO6BCT8SxxfRokbpXPZziZ-w8tRZ4SjmKq5clljJNgcMxkHC8AcNwRWcV8lOfQivTjwPb3hvOmugmOFNsG-Nt_4d6fLKlz7zLltYFF1lTOXrbbgOo6N7AD2orbbNsnVvVmmf-XxCh8reSLqTocDNwBsP0nKkII61v9cwHfC1GQsCH4U3LpRsG-KsMrM756FBmz4nGFEQTVbB7tBnB4FFjHigGPdDvPuf_NgZAYDKUdCe7t3LIzZrBNEv38o-KAdPUWZJgRtGHv3qAPEc0iAgjFExx-S-tquRUAVE3yGm-jSQSxjAnB8Vbs6mgtQp6ERig2n-HFCpF0espikcnWxD4Nv2Iqxdbu_e6ZYzpoS8nwfCKP40mXaGDlQo5R0=w740-h555-no)

I undersized the cut slightly in X so I could clean it up later.  My setup didn't allow me to rotate the part during a cut, so my plan was to do the final cleanup while the part's XY plane was parallel to the table.   Here's where it ended up before this final cut.  About at this point I was realizing the end mill was cutting rather difficult (and rough) and was dull.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bZDdQNNL1A1WFIR_K9v_d5wEAf7HH7qywx3uVOUg-qSAy0Xj_uBqrH_PxaFg8SJPncK4-XE_9azqZ9X6On82pRizr6WKmofTZ8zMt0Hx0h-nYVDYu-fJWcaT1UDZz7WPk4FNWMdBp3suckGxjQYTZ6h1NUWoiRYMXsrcOq-z___RvuUplsV1idELI3Win3cqZXrxZrhGxUqeHW0yv_uiU3M_5wZCdVsM2v4mWHzD08T8WeVirSu5Cb9muqsQ4knkR9dN59kayr1_GgiiXwMDt-t6Y_Cyqg3f90LBEnMvUzM4jGPCgRi64z1YRLrWv8qty6qPZCqpgUwv-l4F_oXYnhPU7OgnzOU5MbV4am6wuuhcU3PkVyDTYK3PstBcEK7SO8PVdH09Jum8g9dXvL2f4IZXRXQNQpSj_BB9YqpPsnyy8MdZD4hF60pHQ3u3jfr_MkymoQn6jDU0cecaZRo692nAGl-4Pv2_Zc-eh2J31WIih19YhSgnW-8ZUQAYNHbDXamVy_EAG3SNTjnuScx0W3ZymxRty6T7r_Go5iragVItP0zPIMvxOppOJrJ06OHZJT2aSQQhE2YoFo1YjrnDFP2SFwtd0H6qPY0hbwzMjjgZNG1zvnbkG2zOVqtnCAgr4ImjF7yA3ukpR-wAiPanUfmeF7pR3t9su0Da3CenYZQ=w740-h555-no)

Here it's mostly done.  Just a little filing remains.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z9wIPlrFalw3a0fRYzI_CQAw1qtFE3URXQtOJcgUbLmpGJQGrnv_eTSMPzRFa49hRxqgw56Wc14=w740-h555-no)

And now I have this part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j1rykdcnvLQz166dgjVLo4DIa3uq-W7KldhgPHNj_7AE4YMfzzLjpnknP-VW_uU_oFpNPuOQ0MVtctTN3TJWBpkR5WRyv23camdpcUjf9Xm6LsTp-xY9S7JZLAIk_YifFOKCfpHjr8WoV8yFfCw6wBYg2SUEzLiaHPb254PwmAshVMLrKhvsjI137Y1AUCpOb9AMzcahznpMOVRx4--aCwIN2jEm4jW2kqzSySGGvlm7UuYeG_iP9Oi3WrfnDaATRBjAp8vSTnPthXFsVkGbJmQ0PtfRb9L3p4N-RjajAmDBHPeBsPcJ9lAenSe-VfS8_wSyCdF2WlRv4d9xQiqxGtEHBhKy3Ky-DztWh_CumTlOtuLnAzg3XYJw3WJ-qkIY9FJCETFQ71Q07WXxsT_K9H81f4aQCfXkKGEMUvhjYmBn3ZnzY0ETmtR6oBLzMMrDsJ8-4rTytRLoFX2BDh4fYp7LTfiptH8SFtEA-C5CAfBySKboO4tPwS-Lg7vGpCCK9aci6TZ0CNZpN2yaBOKoFcxftDEAiEg4D6jz8kSZQSqLu3WteL6phNGhao_EVrzjBgTypbw72C5W7j1cNjZGB4_CE4LobAzPAy9uPwc_XfgtbiX2Ire_CpMjZvrF-xxDImO3PXHgNtSc2wZGqq99cl5W9WNF9cHRKtWrOM7boaM=w740-h555-no)

And finally I needed to turn the ends in for 0.125".  I did this between centers just because I could, and it also meant I could take out the part for inspection or to flip it end-to-end without additional setup.  Note my poor man's "DRO."  I just purchased a magnet for the base of that DI and it worked incredibly well, though on that side of the carriage it was reading backwards.  But 0.125 was only a full rotation and a quarter of the DI so this wasn't confusing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ErkrOeF8rgXbGJMUkZw8s84lbFXcu3AKD03fByI3QKh_LtCdYIFqRidEh_vcGOJGlTb8FACEM6mVhDYbaXvEcbEmjHD190jx-q7eQoYBYkaOrC6P6Rb_lKJhlcLiAzmW9jUmlrQvQe28pbRcjI9Kj3D_b6-HM-opthEbdL3jJG9tUCHWX3592KUoq9lMy2VdtD1vSLn09gVTa1UauqYouBlPhQUqxZ68U6BCFiUahM_m4vYnZPNuxNROt-LMMGv9Mqi6Asz_lFtLHuRIDEhN3ZTSgCtrCLo3_8G2ooR21rRG1aFUKkKd_kZwyoB09kKoHgngyHdDqQ_8qyaNEY2fIQkn-5WKwk221OXBw_F0rx51OAQwS2_AD8obyeY1103TVAIOb0qPEgUV-gPJteHjOd4_mXKZFWF6flMPQJSAm6p500IE2rr3kNBNaf67gLOtQvdHmaxm3KNFyj0z6vxZbK46LRuQImZhyiahGPY1Z6XBvGnfN6ndmGtN78s4ZgkzGGZrptvyQaaT4D9JWejt3LwFqcus-sxpjadmCEP6ZexUHmijy-0WH3_EbSd1rXjnGLO0gsPi5tf-Cd2hz0rnJn7iVMYBy3mVxq8k5EUemJAnKB63tI0KWBoe4RTvY3qBNdJo8HIQ8nHBdk_p4pZjBsIu1walumQ2lmdCyK3_80w=w740-h555-no)

And there's the main part of the crosshead trunk.  I've done a little filing for this photo, but a bit more needs to be cleaned up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ozV_RBgOBW0MirEVI_2swQsh0TNcyViZBsXboESuweaHgWjLPdBkV_8FCfA9GfLsICZkDqIKpbyyN3aWs_dawu8HIvo3Z1WStUvHPRHe84KRyRQ3Txat5hsiMbRMMAKthdPspWJct8rUN9PGnD6Zims1TtmEsWvB8CjYb59W2UwND-_5TNu4FPESYvlIGaJSTR701pmPFTA8yf-7e64fqBvBanpo3WPMcaWC0Wa5pKtYza8vCxAdyA5gcvUpZxNnpDe9G8B0LIpWLUqKCkwKELplyCPvrWC5nIdRtVGjMGW2Wh_sdEWKNmLlGlzdl3flkJhdVCoCOoUL8h6PamEGIJYyOwAoAYgX6A_CjV4LEIs6VcRy6_HxKUB7FFPc1Wv5pLmWKBPMJMKRPBAaFYDlG-ncXTjF0Jb1yd9axdIW4pWNXwUbcVy09GdLrcHo91HHSgY4RoIyEl19HjCfybOlGNUOjxwaKUmUPe8M77Lul7Sdm68ljWOfnTbSaKLKe4EUNM2NhN81nnQdTYhZInxz68FNyVkaJCINhmXzlnKmAsiSKzapJfxW9n2Y13rYNxMZMYEycjrkuSOpzSXTX8eV_vMtHrtJ4RKxCK7d_lqcJWlQmotI6BsBHnD-nzpo3V8dVZNPs8sxXzee1zkjAayHI0My57433H3_X9D4NzAXRBY=w740-h555-no)

Next I think I'll make the "base" part of the crosshead trunk, and then I'll make the front/back heads for it.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: sco on January 10, 2017, 05:05:57 PM
Nice work Todd - you are setting the standard for the rest of us ;-)

Simon.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on January 10, 2017, 05:41:27 PM
Nicely written up as well!   Sweet!
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Flyboy Jim on January 10, 2017, 03:43:09 PM
Excellent documentation of the machining process for this part, Todd. That was an interesting set up that worked quite well.

I just finished watching a series of 3 videos on YouTube where Stephan Gotteswinter makes a sine vise. He rounds it over with a shaper, similar to what you did with your mill. He did an interesting thing, in that after a pass, he would coat it with layout dye. Then it was easy for him to make another pass and take off material in between the previous pass..............if that makes sense.

Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: scc on January 10, 2017, 04:11:03 PM
Excellent documentation of the machining process for this part, Todd. That was an interesting set up that worked quite well.

I just finished watching a series of 3 videos on YouTube where Stephan Gotteswinter makes a sine vise. He rounds it over with a shaper, similar to what you did with your mill. He did an interesting thing, in that after a pass, he would coat it with layout dye. Then it was easy for him to make another pass and take off material in between the previous pass..............if that makes sense.

Jim
                             Cunning!     I never thought of that!                Terry
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 20, 2017, 02:40:18 PM
Note: this is a repost due to the server issues this week.

The Crosshead Trunk Base

It's the weekend and time for the shop!  The crosshead trunk I've constructed so far will need lugs for bolting the engine to the floor, so to speak.  The article suggests either milling these from the block that forms the trunk, or alternatively machine grooves at front/back of the trunk and attach square bars extending beyond the width of the trunk to form the lugs.  I took a third approach because I didn't have material tall enough for the trunk, so my lugs are really part of a baseplate under the trunk.  I'll show that today.

I started by screwing a sketchy looking piece of 1/4" thick 1018 steel to the crosshead trunk I made.  Recall I already had threaded holes in the trunk that were used for screws to hold it to a mandrel.  I thought this was a fine re-use of these holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A2t30UZvtlIYQp0c65iApuF6ZULIE3KcM4Ug6r5fQQcGHRIDIP8bESWichlp4QbDW1WiQtc-_K42YcTwt7GC6QT_VFU8bOhyWSPBcEfKDG_S6eDQpNgLRhnsF2C3wJmzv6--6zt_HIGGXjLYYEqdvpk-1yIgzE7Mqc6fm-B4pnnPJFBNaLaEfnDar0PsDY4etfEW4PY5IhRgo7CbdRYwJnhMmoxawbtwnTpOJxVT5eEToVtniXlrNiEjaMFAXbv8f9MoTM-0SMSajwA3E8SVLz_0Ufa1l4Wm6GI31bjSoUwDInNPyib03ZE-wSJoXwZlwXS-DOG9sGgcA2iElOg1po7jkXxby9vLpvxanbrkMt1UvHongbu5gckdPICwrPbSeQymqgDnpOhdnZ5ty6LVWKP-fvA8hG015TATXG0qgKKxHu6naJir8TjtxInDGrbrWJsdNMiygYyveBlf4d9kuBz8v9uSb4ju6-NCPfYLOZ-ucHe8l6gtcWJ0hoDoDXXdSOs6iHwNQgx_PF_FA-FQz_BNuKspvgqsT3m4-JF-TsE9rHPg2djW_JEcu2wjU9upwDZEYdL9PbGwe0NbQiOPzAc3icTENe3h0KqZPTteq7cLvswp3sr1h_bAp1dmhYtiAR3-tiDcLwStmgLVKMjGiDCVTQGLHRG9W6ocDHoKRro=w794-h597-no)

Next, I machined the base to size.  I decided it would be best to do this while it is attached to the trunk.  You can see I slopped on some dykem dye so I could see when the ends were flush with the trunk, and I used a depth gauge when working the long dimension until they were 1/4" offset.  That's the allowance for the lugs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5JSmuPd9pxBUQ1c4ZtF9RLEvG3-hjpb28JifrU0d_w3f7-gfnMUvpA77wJSzAjbv3-u-uprXqCE6Cd-O4UvHQFqUFEwnTQrMO0Cp3TaHXVxd-tHRbGrdf-5Mh1wKaneYIpT-7zxtxZLCjo4B_SceRVSuqsq3yAI-u-pSMhP4SyfWaa9SNy-5qqF4vQLAhK_sDEv6RoOQni54eg-gh-8ij-AOEd54EZi4ewIdng1WgVjBBxdbBig4yvejZSPjPKVofKQHAHobSHnyKt70jqcjUl816WH9W7xtxXm5rtDRnRiPww8GB25tzpt8TIEPiy1a5pXrpGQ-_o6mJE2MBl543xHZ0rHQjZYobmUXEtp_-wLj2ronXgRlf9WRMMDhkqK8dpntdaSOSDWL2nrAoYNwM40ljGQwk055ou-53A8aLK3HO9YEDNob_cmayFdiBqb2_ac9hjdRCsfPTqr_HDZqdlwdG_XFoRSqDzQHtwCj5Z5rRUhgBXq05-MWao2vqkLeb1B11NB1O8Hn_gP4p-a9XKdEqLEjpL2Ddj5EYPZlDNGJ-lyXn8ktsYDVg0f_3Iokxyao31l5tqyH43gCmO3mjL35iiLqD1NtBU_SPiksEf6Gxh37Ay7Y5-9lv3f60bfLTY40y_X8E-F9kZjYPn6B9DUvN74U8i8R5BhsFMDE_f8=w794-h597-no)

I skimmed it with a facing mill to make sure it sits perfectly flat.  The finish of my cut is getting real lousy so I'm assuming the inserts are getting dull.  My lighting is rather harsh and makes it look worse than it is.  But it's still not great...but not visible on the finished engine either.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W0x02j744JUQYqv_-11KLxwH6vrNYSMwFMid6J36YEUmRn9Z4A1oSJVk6MEJBs4M0bOHG_MlqH5Fo6yPahf1Fy3zC050vi-VQ4vHRD6P2CxobSYkpMzoyaOkM06KDy6dRZegoCsS5AyyyFpftkDmpVKasX5UBP3aF5mSmiBsIgIPN-UDc_P_2mhI94FZJdExBzO0g960WkpNbT02VawxqIVteaozJ_kKS9s-_8jw4EDgiioIvTBYuLil2JaYyxp0_efqYj3Yolmal6nt1baHGXc6CPKow3mLsyQVoDJ57QR8Duj5leZTCdxJze6HjHRdsuq-kVeH_uiIVWE8xZXg1a8RC8d_mXxBsiLDQZnOQ7XwF1uEKEaXTxcGew54-VoKxKNQRVca1ymO95KIkPyQQoFGF_lXmW4FNlUORKKiAJHfGolCyhW9hE_DQXCHJZ69SCKlPKd-xVqmJ_Dghqx8veUX8tdNSmEvJuel3Eb6jG734_a0l4_j5qahGFYqyV1hP4d21GbWPe8ESuzqhKvG7DCW2MiXRU4ahWHX8trJsljV7kmdUzYFPOjSSRB4a_xfDhbxNEjUyfs4XcM79xDHxJllwI4MxHAF9onhU7giqEHRsMfKWfFFXr-uJMymYLELHROPup4t5LxIANYQqx46lD1FF_eMZqN3kozWVRnjSwc=w794-h597-no)

Now it was a matter of hogging out material leaving the lugs behind.  Note again that I added dye so I can see when I touch the side of the trunk.  This worked really well on this side, but I overshot a bit on the other side :(.  But nothing a file can't fix.  I was just trying to avoid file work as much as possible.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IvngUL_aECSq17cEkiZYG3B4VSIoTreOb-S26-pRpkncyFYaJsVGyvfwXuOHiD-5GmtNsGhUk_QKggbQc1LWLGISYHo-w-TnfDd1IzNhbzX-FzAfLlp8ARC6RZURDEMMncjlb48is2ETpB1SdTEJD9L29z41RUJmoHqenN2P4WDLy7vcHuCMqHLwf5AfLVa1OCKIo78FpOy5WIqV-oE_KCmeCVmw1NR3xc-GkHqDLpOKEDG5sbtDDA65OUtkcDdW46sEs0fQEhcd4pXHkr7Eqc1IN-HWSdFdOWZiIkG0PdPM4v1m3YmZPv4-hRxudf_XlsW03uDzywZn9x6XaBDGAcx7TMtYsMvmVtyOD9PpsM1fcbz0eevfzt3ZUd9iRij9-Yt9LVM46djF-RMxI6IeerwFoUuWQo8_9YQFm4-bldo_Ia-uwpEiscIqMR_r-KbJ7wZjlWoMViTTpvuymTr2OXBIxq0E28RjaOt0XM49YI7vsCSxzxCK3iDga7NtQP6_a3Bc7fLLwx15PsadeaKTF-UYQRc_YoJzjPIiii7JYtfqJZWF_gkR0aXpiFnv6w18H9O9OL6OiBQYEoKvcQBlBfJQND3BCQVP6N8OWq3vvfSqikaUNChtsRJC4NOQtYjkP7yBhhHrC6Z8Rha4t_pVD94PYSMdPkCjKCm9vqTZN_w=w794-h597-no)

Here's the cleanup pass.  The dye worked well.  I'm just starting to smudge it around.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pWYzo8D4Oz50Jtelgl19SKx9FhpJNZc6QUfPSLqy7Z4rGcIzGqsW7YxhdEBXXPqQ_l3M0E10BD4jkfub97jI2-EQ8a0_j-0m0GmxKrKIfJ4bxcjknipPDO5XN2LCj3NWKYo1-Pk3061WVUfIBbqgdrYVOYBeH2SbSy186tKjFaR604BKbfOEGO-bcVguf5b1RRuWhQU-YSPYI41VlHbmN6Y3SjbICMHgaFb0wJ15R4Ja0akC4iFxD-Mods714OoL-R2qswy-t2GLNXBXG3GydDuxi668HDWVksXVkYF1hZbNJ2yksTNPgnNIn3y17tkKJ-f4G3VH7wlQjoSnRQIhDEf4YGnGhfAQ-giCe0YfMhM7oSDA1B5FW311w0Ugn1Y3k0E4DifxjOYsvf6Ji5SmaE0607RqDqL8WDPlDxRDAGz1CPx5PgLbmuoSzn7zJGUUDNOdqBJcqwq0fB7CxPL3DmU9nRBv7ehHGZr6HU15KGXImgt3KKJca6P8RbbW0Q1EmnPTg2J4SFBdm8O3GzCzZpRHIrZINhXOMZZ6K-6F6e76IqtIWUV5qMDgEAKrbJRPi-BrXxz7Xa9BU4FBOwSYNSybfGLnUVzEC38Fg0vo_FvqcaxkHIAGGtQxdw1vL8dLXsD_gbXLsDlXz7qL-PXX60V8dlATyi_HMlteW9Yud-c=w794-h597-no)

Then it was simply a matter of drilling the four holes into the lugs.  This was easy to do from the underside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/adHv_P0s5TIy1dvwF_OPyTS5BD0sqw90WwJy1TQZYS3G2aiO2DgNu-U8WanQUWKDQcIoT2h5wZAAldmwh8nTEI_uoo2QKD3zAokLsmxcUqiiGPOsymAgSniNnzIpP9d9yNfECVQ6I4w3Mp6VEyYu-fMvVPnx5By4gzivJKcaxpJlzv30ZBFJVJjkpwDtyEWCSvdyurP6cfeq_GICKdwn7bcZ7esOTGCJnXqQYocCjnh5cZ0p1ZWSMu-62UyWnMuILx-bkWDlFhOi7RgyZzV1yye2wLg62yvcz6j4qIbuqLi4aZ0yi3iwrZBiSUazRCj9XEaSSIUPTiGBqCWZLL-YfTUvo7BzeWHElKF1709hOfsyllJKc-U2uAyylhBpQtrYPVd5ymi6zzlq27IU8_uxTtrTtosBDUeMf8faublEkYFBuZn6ZrGWzd8vIVHg9_yfjD6xCZo-2QsiSB0PfzODlzaNbFwh-BZFg4p2akBKwTuqGjPXwyW1vGdNbaLNKOnmjmFS-5UTJd_Wx1MVxIWE0LNTdQj7TkYKGMSQ6evHFNI6SJlbh4L5d4CYoyjSasxMaAdQObvSstis5pUeoNzBKc0eWjbJqLcHlnicQ5_lWrW-J-ldg2uvkuo9zSrglTY9vhcia_YeibfbR84iGnkDOp337OGIKhhOlRx9-Jp7xwE=w794-h597-no)

The crosshead trunk is now almost done.  I need to make front/rear plates for it and turn down the ends to form bosses for fitting into these plates.  When I do that turning I'll do a final touchup so the ends are perfectly flush.  The plates, in theory, will be silver soldered in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KBEtYiduJM5afpmThlglBfZ7f_MuYQ_7OSdFeJPGTVFKdC76TuRvJcfXCKXRV6nAEpxprWAqj6Vu7F9gFX65SfT9BdsVeWZH_vb-ySD2jYeIS1ttLBLWWhmIba_-emhqIZ3ZMm1jAewvLUXoYJ2F1_H0nZYroAHogLHD7XqVeMxrW9Aw0kvKLlbjcdeCVAIucNwioQ_cZ_MGAPsR-XCVMKXMkSjNt-CgKxfV9al_DcUlNUksrVeS2G7OgCbmOIi0zcblaIvLwLo6EWxNkLvlKZu9q7eVbe-jcjuxGRK5Ib7ynI9Pmhm3KxMhIG60X1YT79Easj6GhXAz95vpjUFVEt2ledW7pwEk7AnfIn0E1m2E8SwXwyadGB1NmNq9LfGg4JPKcZPFnvorf3GYGikJPe0yaSHp7Z4pmDcEsn-BhBw-WEIFQdZTdcKRg8xWKOD0f_ImM79GhMzsIXUdNsdN8rlBpe0VIiL9Xfe_lD7Aiz5v7CaiCRB8MOubkt8fK9qWP-5_5SCeNWxBF5C1ztCdCn8PKw8IJixbAxyE5pVLuy5sijKyGKx-xkVTfzLh3DJ-hF4MnVg57HNppG3nPjHh8LurEn3WssADY78TDb9D8FmNj-PayYJUq6SVS2UxFb4Ye7LUd6fYvFXeCMHVhm-QY4J8HE5KU5dTk2xT_QVYbeg=w794-h597-no)

Next, I need to make those front/rear plates.  Hopefully I'll get that much done this weekend.  Stay tuned!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 20, 2017, 02:41:38 PM
Note: this is a repost due to the server issues this week.

Misc Progress:  the MLK addition

It just so happens my employer chooses Martin Luther King day here in the states as a company holiday.  That means I could sneak in a bit of extra shop time.  And I made some progress on a few bits :)

I fully intended to start on the front/back plates for the crosshead trunk I made previously.  But instead I decided to try making the fairing which requires some bending.  This isn't a particularly large part and if it didn't come out well, I would rethink and try again.  Ramon's build will no doubt show a different method, and who knows, I might need to follow his lead.

So I scanned the page from the book, scaled it to 1:1 and used spray adhesive to stick it to some 1/8" brass.  I've recently watched some clickspring videos where he cuts brass like this with a scroll saw.  And what the heck...it worked pretty well.  Slow, but ok.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2d8XhEvRR81B69774z_ZU4gB7I57HtJ6Nj-WpSSpGVzIDGZF-x8mz22b9DEnilg3zRawRFFYSh6zhZhDT40SAjHaoUKJrIg3m23NEcBfRY8wO0SX7-UaXZEqqsay5Dbf-SrqlmWJqLlpD_uKoSClNZNHR52_uRTOHnRnqFq1cf1r1v_Yrjov7OWzdOdDwv3jPRcTf9f5yjFYIBXvdZS1jgJV5DZ-V2ItcTIsmMlpCy7pviZBjjoPOGlZTlS3tbIWaJ3WOsBYN-htip-kabYXTpRe6XCNAOimBP_EXI0kgTUzmCdSXZsVZok8_qwm-0smM57L-yCx9Zp4h_XPYDTuZA38veFRokPr3VsCly3uL3KoH_kcuoo81xgnsfDMrN41BzTtFngMzOqyg_lrRPK78CuXdEGcfSSbKxxg4vxkMPRI1YRPqEjXaiOsPkvin-_VVjd95MiSC8pjG40lmoTVQcF-OE9SD3gHGnvSw2BwLb9cvj1XYIPBUZMYRhifD76AbX9VaWK0zNzKjORT6CoANYMnaAm-0m61xfdzUXkqex8p-2Z-1Ix9v_AqIisiOfph7Mwh7nTb96D2Nf4ozZ2o-XJ8o3mxid4RFZfsrNoK5667tvbrKaCVoXHseCgrGokjU_BorfUfbJPJgMQMzNVDQfwebZDxH3e5RMzbTzE4_GQ=w794-h597-no)

Then I took it to my trusty oscillating spindle sander.  I'm reasonably well equipped on the woodshop side of the world and thought this was worth trying.  It worked very well, so I just sanded up to the line.  It only took a couple minutes to clean up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lccGpVaQWXS2Tyl4oBrX0pZIzofYVHwB-p9K3YY-pkeoZvqUvLw5oOQPFO3BaHNVZFG8KygB2ktX06bLOMKyjsO-aep5BuiHysLha3cuEEC0jJbveOlCfQf86-YsBSeI7cN7XPBoKzPg7gF-ceNLJeoIYBmEcdFALQ2hb-yXOMdYu5Gnm9bXHEMZbninVgX7loGJoBV8qStFEFp5Adcbp2SLg3LtfOJJfPbKdJNW5Qh3qPOKH_l8Djxb3geubLP8lAV-n_eR1AN6oHiQBx7iZSc5kzz_KeqBmO6VrNFOEtVlCnHcGnpWihedUwZA74ZzGh4tNl4-sGlDOjOHkTSc6shGvL7gO_Rld9Fy72OMntrmUCSbbQBvIZNrHm94DjJOh1sPoDeXF13PQ_m7pEqe9f2oOCTmdrigT5YKASi7oeq7TAA-ie3nSTIagx39RWyBnJy6zpicurpzGitDN_vGodSeDl0ASsrm1-UNUsN0JjORpK5PID6fGboilvMm3pN6-nvnOK0JDy7Ba2JDfrfvCrwSGRok-UWCFuZyPdtXAreSc0lRlXhKUt8Px8DpGW7FTUBovJvZxL-iynMcSKmhLHiJRelcNrK1mQEMwIkbFVX1_qse4BblFp3O7h1Q-QbpSOxQIFRxgSDVCT9aPrcO2yD2bILY3ORk26nR7d74E4Y=w794-h597-no)

I routed a block of wood for the shape for bending.  Along the bottom is approx 1/8" strip of wood as a guide.  I created this block over on the router table with a roundover router bit.  In a few minutes I will realize that I made it too narrow.  Sigh.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pkvf7nkQwAp6rU14sBPtJIedj-EwU7e452BhK6sioJXnib7wwMmyfjEBlTFN24jxc-iwNlENbWV_zNR9TR5_e4djCQVe7bA9BFStAmWQRGAkKd915BjB9Dwuc1g_ncbDjl-O1av09kWYXbok9AfqY2n4ZMaFoGutQeGLDydE7msZEj5KU-Y9cFP_gxMF9RvpMegMa5Ib2KjCxyns3QcNv71T5vaQ9yoZOfASmbir_L_UUJ82HFbbsD74hAH6s4xov3vkUg_U0NKL686cMEntdOSRFdOwnfywr4PuXH_6C-3gMmmEnbPd7plxigZerTaYIPcuimZNLI3on_-rSdJdWvEitGWZ5j_OJ4YiSr-zce_nw5K5USNpN1UBAHE2r8EhUNha3rc5EacI1_kevpMXqrvFLHFDaZ0vBNXb9WOggdzhICbG8w3qKgZqdOlEzbf2jyw4I8iffeFExSVaJOL1XTsCFNu0rYQI62wT0aqF9UABJ23D69ecackLVAJW2X-Zwb3k_B6JIjeXUtaTBJ_83uyBE2MPcGjEBGqB4CrDQlrvE89K3OvzrIk6b0VkoiZ09lX8iMCn6HlMptB1DVEJnDOLBPSa10C5MMdmGWpJtAwYmLC2Sn6279O8BKRvxTos80gPnmnxkoWk_4WyWxTF_VzSkn_6lgymbhYakx3sZfU=w794-h597-no)

I annealed the brass, never having done that before.  I heated it until it was glowing faintly and kept it heated that way for about 2 minutes.  Then I tossed it into water.  I didn't try bending without annealing.  Here you can see the setup a bit more.  I placed the fairing against that straightedge wood and then sandwiched a bar with some C clamps to hold it tight.  Now it was time to tap it around.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Si3K0Yi-JKKvmAHYcbqiVa8t7rC3wu4kURDZJNAi90Z5pTCOqwEEjO386hA4JutflUTqWXOMHLIWUwubssYF28xVOyrxSSrI4YS4R4ZGXdHqp_wyfXItz9TG0PmD4rjMTY8D6IJ8DYQO4zzjtTAnYEY740x_ZrsPEsHvJVAIaFHM92YJCdYje3lH7X24G8DGdawsxz6wbMPEBj0C79I0Ivy5T8gsHHfaA5oVOIp259savQK0eStnqepJ7TVjZ4Oc7apHG9v_2u1WEFBrVW1tSlNwiATydS_H7lU-AAqBaGaIxKbBif03MWOAz_Z7lzpynXwAERS-awziKY5rhHPf3h7PwCY004aJ6CdC0wIerDh5OeZUZGE1tilQNnzDS7RshltCSOy3pQXkgJnemkRdfhtV-wssUMgqm-fQjVUnbvktv4-YpeA4rf2rdhI16CVTsgHxfv1mNpEGuz759XH8YaWsPD-2fTdAeLndbUx3YWkq6yZG8IiubLwHsCpiwXpvWMgbX3E_jGLUTtA59UuvlqazgtAafpc_Q4tajy1RbXEXvBNHX5RQHco0NfRNr3ZqbVON8YmmgmWaeTle255XZ18iddfJFCXqH7BnjDXrAcKg-MCq78Ij8dYKIW85-Fzr5HlIwGgpmKiu34cE3Oip1UyImK9srICTDUIynnP2RaY=w794-h597-no)

I pounded it around with a hammer and a scrap hunk of wood like this.  It formed very nice, although too narrow as I said earlier.  Sigh again.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wJaGaN9cslVwYs2phhbWZj3SiYWxxkFiDCDKBNYk-CPH1woBO0yjWllUtJWIAvUPeCI7Q1pro0xGcHQXeJRXMf7Wj24upUYqxaILwR24N_Vt2T1a6FyQJFVIFNW66NHcCqJcFOKPKW-0cEC98gac1NS2JJ-fCYr74Lc078MYpeYV3BG4k2UH4wB1aajDgF9DbCxBkwcMKpUft6_r02717b_6b88o5WJnq_qSqVLs2TVergtcdqoZJvwPkCkDm-vyatoLtHC4vz0jJwcFLDKmvO3jsSqqkH4ZE5ncJ2xZmfHxlhQbWBqP5prd3oFdQV9VPfN1Iwup7lgYCp60ofcULzKCHSLS_GDZzbjBdtdlDr3v-4GF5K4ewyom_qXMGHrf-vwvJqaBbPmc9nrAIPgqJtS81MXD_D1sGgg3tJKc7Ktq3qUzdBs6kaZbJunL4BrWdc6PddRNu0XTVlTyOQhAYkBKFZYT0LosMn9OfjmDeKehEnX4zwh0zSWFtyFFKJP5OgKbhIqVXhyyMOl987HsC4W2Om1IJ6O4-_cKL-yiKxnv0-2lzp8Ysi-vWQct1SApMZ9wtNLQjzX4QByGczyztPFtM8SEQ9g8Vt2ECNO42Y7G7gRdXUfsWY-CDlzyfCXOuDizy4oIkHzkKjJPPpFI0sia_NeoswCxEBC4Egy519c=w794-h597-no)

At this point I realized I made it 3/4" wide and it really needs to be about 1 1/4" wide.   So I made up a new jig, pretty much in the same way.  I annealed the brass again, and then used my vise to spread it a bit.  Finally I pounded it down again as shown here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZO_8RgB_Kg4D4rfyaM9vFA2x8P91SkGEX5lmqwO7SvYGJcS21DV-pf4-Z_vzqFNE_1FUHocZ878NoH8fiSuVWAvWMBjr3pQn4jndzj3GGD9EN241XR2BR6eAObnWrcJhW8VtEEndkduXvSviYkeguLrvOXcQtV6I5LjrNnO4Bkc5JLrT4-GT3DjVBvKbWDkhXAAfEESf_fm92Vd0jMwBWBF6cORqpy16PLu1Fe3KF43bLa2mf4q2ZShYmjVIIEOxxO1eL8rfpJfeqeHI1LW0v7G4gSp6GgkKcgPssphMCsEQNByO4Xw_m9VlL48D0jgo5VjHJHjmMFdQQKtRNfKU5fmh_Ul1bMQZEdT9b_9X-VX4Ta0X9PwMu-pkgtH4e6hy5E95H5FKyuU9QrHmB1nBOADALvneehWp8yauVc0FY1OGaFKBsbxpsEJdHMOcAwYHu8qyhiHJouebFIQT8Fsq28n64DVoJc2Aof-EUj_1w5dLR1jjvRxvVEc8tmWoFC02efwBjPU9U0NJKVdzo_0D82fdq-Hi1Lt6kFAjvY1cawxF--oMskog0VGlVy5ahB4gXwl7ukwiecM1MAwoNHPPYyVgVuKKLuW_ucLN7CKcAz6u7DU1J5r9OdWElQT60gaqcSZbRXZZa4edAclodpnyqitFB4EKAqNpMT4EZOPZg5Q=w794-h597-no)

And here's the fairing
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GwIC_6DT9VOD38AhfFD8zNmj1Qp0KQ1FCrH8Kyo4SZnMdT-Fj_eoqVjjpYUDnYFt8PVSOfglFAgZ3u2AQLdiw-RgUl0MHZCbtaeIABIno33k0cT4-iFGYTemD8_-SY-vuULwy77AAE46P_yQ5b6AtovCqw9LL9CCIzNvpYHYgLZn9CMpJaxF5Gq2YiUpLGVAvcmteCimj6g4oGtZQylF17gHhAQDIMq_kh2LKwMtJUEO3q6osbWRSDt1fFTixVP7McX7r2ji91x5eaqyxdeAxP2yW5YOWlO-TM4XX6DSJtnuqry-BtSxknylkXQsHkpGNEXrNUIUjijjFK8KcCKBMG7r2XIWqEDg4sNhq5g6DAvkqg9K2MmPQLauxqEH7JHYnIBZA0_ORArpR8CZM-xg2o6FOL7BCHQex-xGh3jHzEy5QpnWgjaZ5dh3p-Hmn7X6TSu5Z5dWYQ_cKP7fc9Hsabo1_LlebEAM3MIw4mZ5Jf4lkA-JaMt9eqww-Sk8taaKAIBUAV6kTftbS7OrhuXDmXSjDM5cqMBbF7z2JMjvajhbUSGHgAJw8zvUsk1oE2pXWPRks8Omr7YDdIznykC_25DqSKuJzCiZ8YXPt9zoIWBTPi34kcTvzwtH6PIVlVHOCz52-cIP9MVFB-V9brpa8v_-TBn8FCy1saNfZF7zgGU=w794-h597-no)

Then I shifted my attention to the front/back plates for the trunk.  I cut two pieces of 1/8" brass and bored them to 7/8".  The plan calls for the back plate to have a much smaller diameter, but I thought I'd try making them the same to begin with.  The rear plate will be trimmed for the fairing.  The boring process was entertaining.  This boring head is new to me and I had a number of frustrations with it.  The main problem was that it took me a while to figure out how to angle the edge of the boring bar.  I was shooting for neutral rake, but found the bar would rub (that took a while to notice!).  I also found the entire head being out-of-balance wasn't too nice for my mill.  I was maybe running it at 200 RPM max.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1B77eYouT9TPNJhcDE-6ooqKZ2fwPGhGdJ_7mAGGcqYoQOlLfnYju30ZvZMXPV5OTmlCOsO3lEYhwdcpyAeNAfu4EN_qQTMW8VmWtNdAgBw2VE-SgWCLpF5kNmav7PYC_MfooyXO4JtuVmuQGP9QYV3HToAIGAvYVhFYadnK_jyuRr6BpoxBGDEWqMjTqaLZTbYh4eKU0NOKpknaSrumTsVQo-cQlzh5t0ULfkv72jWoOAXvPWyFlRWoDl84bl7bKvAvEiToThJFJooG6xnGxpue98-DSwRqzyYRAESIlJsZJCN3-ffhYzUC4qtXV4EhTKaqLJHiRksve1qsxXMIHXPIZEc9vVlf0V1n3d6V6H6mt1pFlUIMOwQNYlFIvIYDAT5zMdrfo4gIjv8k4elVOduIqGEWCL0oL0BGgClJ-RHLWYojjzNwIICXSi1AunV6XQgoTQ764ujvpP5ONXCghQHJVdFGZitlfTj_770MrwGorC-UlEXAMkJMHIwijRbGRXYsDdv_LuzupN7slFwXE-1ZIXa4QPkXL281FfCfzApeQk_ViX-wTL9pn_f4GHBp0WNIZMjdMzBMUerWb4ZJdcJi7Ai6CcuNWi_LjxG7N7nlG77c4dVM2OzwwIVMCV14znBcd3kL9FI5sAFcyuUbMG5jLHXWUBKD2iopfM9Npcg=w794-h597-no)

I made a bushing to hold the front plate onto the center of my RT and used parallels laid flat to hold it off the table while I machined it.  First, I drilled 5 holes for 4-40 bolts that will attach to the cylinder.  These are spaced 52 degrees apart.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TkxdVMxT1KL_KHJ7Luu2TRJCGV8-V-lwjlyFB2FdNFb_gUzJP2IgzhrtWx9nKxPq5UBGanO-NWsZLGQVmyuuTMigzM5sdCajcUT0ypSZP5RqBeaQRzu8OMIGX1dQP8XOaSQMdGciyqTKiQYi5lhiv2l1gK084W9HGyggE_ds6XZ-iFFZ7A5nV4uCoir1-sgi-NV1uR8CSkNyyYo8NKlx0yA6_Wll7WKbxhNEmr-QxBE3q7eInjqLdT10F4vmQ7OnebDKdIrugVNb5o6WchS3rCuDqzoupWfxU6lXJXO2gKQxIbnktcL6Foanz_5giB7pAxn5vVJcVizHpqG03MHnfM9qYwMRiMc9sqLcv7RpyEx_T7P_ny22FhrlWOBCD0RmDpcAxuN6GPTf1RMn-D_7Pn-rKrEiFbtrgp1XCSzryTsYEW7bO40pO59u7i1qrwJVngGs_WSNYbIjCkPBKpWp_GUa1Dde_Qcl7P-V6Gstq_O0wG1BCR4O27Xlbg7PusycVdonlbwGxs6k2NR7HjZyQJy5oIgfUqBYfna44CaFiY9HQ5lDrhZQ-wLPt8UE8mJTUzCHiI-NSUuA2JgQnJd7rEVCI-aGjCGEJr8u_I8fF94_NCKZFquQ8cjkg3MO7XeqfSGp51s-sMjuGItYsan8MJqVps8LLeATSjG1Cn4diRw=w794-h597-no)

And then I cut out the top of the front plate using a 1/8" end mill.   I was very surprised how well this little end mill cut.  It was like going through butter!  I really like brass :).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hGyV_PIeKlEALGxKbRErtyNLaqAA0IjkVJc2x7GkqoICOeX9rxRKRuRl2R0j90y5NuNQY25NlLMiNB786fj4C8Qwl1Ghc7M3X4tGil79aRNv8S71OOrra0nzVUDKC1AumLmShpjAQgCKa0NJl5GgZPKA0SvVvCVFaIEeMfZTzxkP2hUKtpWzHJIcDjwCLy_MLqGvpLURHcawNMVI-ZT7Jqhm6daD_rGDMg5kKrajsPDCvZHcckVIH1luIjcsIHUc6NSxx6nNkzJCy1-4WnXMOE3oA5lgKM3T8wgT002zzB7fkZxtLKsb6z6piybgpP7SYg0uIGTzy5lBBVEpXPD4pGyV85mbmpPOt1hpjzNbhHsvEwnvLqwMFCP1F1uOVX9pZyTwwMVPi5O5r1MThhAAlZ9eke_3tJrJN4_afH8FWhDXA573h1bc7fi05_ySGDB7LbZjXrrkz7bXgbu8lnRxUINc6BTglXQhSLSrY4237jq0zR_jeQkHUt5qa_zgdqwXZIFIl6kRiXwR1st_uXGdRaDPJdJIPtz5XxmcKHv_XbRM4Lx9YPvrZvnnorUSajkin4Q6oNkg63LTqUoMhaFAwPla_c20V8VsEwheYECxDgjBtaq43v8rcmpbrwp7ApPe9ShFcpV9DvstSCEpikxODOVohd6GHmwJFp4uIUwOeQ8=w794-h597-no)

Here's the front head sitting against the trunk (I see I have the back side next to it).  I need to turn the trunk to make it fit...but I'll make the rear plate before doing that.  Note the little nicks around the edge.  I found these were caused by the swarf as I backed out of the cut.  At least I think that's what did it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/umF87O5NG2Z61zZUTnyZa-7qzjbAkrkEolaDHLxXXVeJgLuf5L71sSpS7IUJfkzFza3Gh3m5d-vmrej4uy0nEHypaMfhk4NcrxD4bTS4zn3eqycEA_ufDRhgo5qLCD9nPXdaDLvihLDHEJmsb3KBbTb7fQ-w00D-9XwfoCZFm9ah6B1SzPQ_sPK9J9yoBuRjiUndSD8jN0LJY8sYCYwhKuMlmreMXnLh1iqpMnJ_R01WevlW4tDVyiBz0aCt0Ns6MoaSwsoOAheX2TtcVPn9NCjVWhcP9Y7pXNSnDcss21flre8fhu_YXexph6t_KcNTgiepsqRl5VzDlT6pihfc2Z25bQ1OH8Gr9JLGTy7BpzZWxhDCa12ryIxBkxfa77FjHSNUsddD2b_1yjB9MIX5Nfl27eQVmr-w4quCQs1DKp7_nI-jUlTc1YjO34fQwykO7yXSnXGbt7Aiu10-7hq-CYG_9wMNoXrPJEfGNuz_P83pBUzuQ4yZkujxI982GejxWCHY_zoVdUEypjo1yMjsh5gQAsrUBUCR6mrzNjk2nL68UyhfTR3_rT6jB7mm83fxViBiFeG9ZTGsw_0UvrgPmn7ke-MBO67PebICaujhQnNDzqhuKqMdJBoVE609NRLeXKQOYcCICkcTGh0HDtjQ1BVvzfbCDBcAx8yp9OilMBA=w794-h597-no)

Here's the first family shot.  Bits and pieces.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C5WvtU9LlhZdbujwG3SMDmTPVt2i5UtQE_KLy7cxt8zVVQRILuubDsdY9oHkwIVgP0_G6kAIUF9VVPuD-L0b2dTXSXP7bq0evYdCXBSBu5EmGamTu6pKSdRdoykveQpFTLPCb2WciVEXcXNRlSOhBw990ZOuw7ytHEX-7Vzezf1aCSeRQKj1vqycVEX8HWzaCet4Ll6sf7YQ8IZE5Q6q37_8qBuTMV7rreZ2bwBk28WXZXQRcIPcddIEyCY3a-u1pwFUKwPzE3TzmC-jSutcfQI4Om51FnYBtlsDTXvvgDdX4Rauqi8pTRCs1I5iy4Vdiw-_u96oQ6NqiO2wylKn8ns5nTm35B6A-PuikpBe3UdLN3PjzLUIVFBywC4dWtupWy1gcOVoP8F_-fS9WzgL-z4pEQ77sZI07me_DUb2gnS-XaMetlF9mTj6xO2oTHAtIKl8ln7JhtFO9eH_V-Y7S9yqtHBSRUbViro8iKcB5gCD4v8a8y_T6HzpqwKw2J4oUAoc2PKgsb-rphILh3FCyA3-WoiZ2R8mFUHDMydatmIvzTfKi_Rf1NgBAI3sEcYgFJ3DfffQpEVOin8Ee6eixmpMiKQ3n28ouMONH4hDZKyQ55OR1209Kk5-oteK8d7Uc0ZGIrC--YfEYM2SmPHG1Pkezq50UPE8BHjkr-nT9oY=w794-h597-no)

Next time I'll make the rear plate and see if the fairing looks like it'll fit or not.  I'll also turn down the bosses on the ends of the crosshead trunk so I can fit these plates properly.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 20, 2017, 02:45:18 PM
So I'm the lucky b@stard this week because I happened to paste my recent posts into a file before doing the final post.  It's not that I expected the server issues that occurred this week, but I kept getting that dratted no more processes error and I encountered once where the back button didn't work.  The cool thing is that I could "recover" my last two build posts trivially (copy/paste the whole thing).

Unfortunately, I didn't capture the comments and dialog that followed.  Oh well...we'll all continue on anyway.  Hopefully the storm has completely passed.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Pete49 on January 21, 2017, 02:44:41 AM
I tried one and it had a virus, maybe you could PM or e-mail me the link Ramon.
I could say mine would be done by Fawncett, you would be none the wiser as I'll probably not be there
PS Ramon should we be searching for Wisdom rather than history?
EDIT Found it :)
Jason could you flip me the link? All I found was stock market stuff. The Google foo is weak in this one.
Pete
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on January 21, 2017, 07:38:04 AM
Pete, I'll post it here as Ramon had added it to the thread before things were lost.

https://www.scribd.com/document/253513412/The-Shop-Wisdom-of-Jesse-Livingstone-by-the-Home-Shop-Machinist
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 26, 2017, 02:02:03 AM
More Crosshead Trunk Assembly Bits


I've been in the shop off and on for very brief periods over the last week, so this update won't be too exciting.  But I thought showing a little progress is better than leaving the thread dark.

In the last episode I finished with the trunk itself, the head plate, and the bent fairing.  Now I add the rear plate, bend the fairing to fit a little better, and then turn down the bosses on the trunk so the plates fit neatly.

The rear plate is similar to the front plate, except it doesn't have a bolt-hole circle for the cylinder, and the part is trimmed to make way for the 1/8" thick fairing that wraps around part of it.  So to cut the top curve I needed to offset it 1/4" from the center of the bore.  I initially placed it centered on the RT using the bushing (see the last post for that) and realized that if I removed the bushing and shifted it, this would account for the 1/4".  So I clamped down some parallels so I could do this shift along one dimension only.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qE2SF-z37ZLvHz3mhQM3t2SkOQ6NVe1O0p4v1gHJp2GwZYaZ37gny29AUn4gYdJidj-a0fVJkx_PgzY6veLVkN6fI8H90U1PAQE9KO_xX_b0cIi7rPYYg2r-Baz5OqF-7y91_VYhd_WKArjCshgSNa4ZADoXPy0pX93cEJ6guTivyP3BGiPwu4_CCVJhT3mbhLyCLOStdCRuuLkPMsLU008ddnzO94u8H592Rj_4mSH_QkmFmK8WZHErZovp5dYKxHsElzQkO0BneV4xBcU-9uQviutH-zbDwvCHxGjqd5uWDk2gHSyTcyWAGZj23QVbeV2Hdj_Tu4jEFBnFe5VAg4L-wC_aqXEQ8rp0wm6CEKeERTarOtmkAxOOsBZWRwEJ82xhtWGmR1-IitZI_tzRJTGaNWL5CqfYgwWXck2OVtVz-vhYRc6GI43IBKqLZiD8hP4sa8pVynKR4kBbYTXob-yUGgK-8cKdQJLubvTIw0w6uYiosLh-CZCO91VLVlHBGGHrmm7R5eYZKqp-BHB-R_sV6jP-5JJwao-QTcDq7e6omRN6gjiqge0V04a5tY5CZIirXU6rmbAsTGCSstyHKBXSlj1YJaxyBHGD9UKvr67-XcGzodDEKdkKyzNp9dncW66AvQssgVVfMNNaB-xGxVlneRGKEB_7TE2coOMuL-o=w745-h559-no)

This worked good, so I machined it out with a 1/8" end mill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZ07bqsvUg1b0SN8goJdNW7e_1YW5v_5vO5jJXI3A8v_N3vwZRNFy940MIEiE-ztrjrkzkrrGhoCWZ1b5h5X1WcCKnX55tcv0QvfEfgPhn5AoN88dyEK9Q_IIUwT7QXGQ0ZvliyT0yuT26x7REdwRrGKPunWbTkfS5N4nZeGprkGO8ZLP8UyNLrhElsKdKCRGVaoVNA0y4QwWqRkFhQRNDGmxiPSdsggIo-oPmOKeFoXQzEzTkaOVtUh-UwUjIdcYg_Xvc7Wu0176pVYbUNOZGWy_v_nQV11BbxTh8JrrC6cMUT6zPP8oN_wtssMJACgAnhzZLVePEAuaHYVHHaVJO2BRJNkdHSM9wkOkc-9mO9zVf6ZNuuWZh4I8-TYb_cFyEyPbYlcX0QNMNkoFEsJflLxO26XQLmtDV4oukSuamQ5yswNLPLK6D1zs8Y9q4tG1zm8v-F-bce3srRy6RKrkzaOhjmUHMqn53kB7nV05hijeCVtX7TkK8PTJbVdiVfz4_wbjaEquOgQiFz4mD_qNHsLnLQp2HrBzSHsuyPDSGkaE999oGpznlyHlkODhPksnSz-RHB0bKm2AneFo2KzdooVVuyCEFzqkV9PDMJiYBymQxPkz41AW2FAbqw9IZ-uSXQZee2TEh__8MjaFTUuVP-cGjEcyz6SN1R8SuDEohA=w813-h609-no)

Then I trimmed one side for the fairing.  This removed 1/8" -- the thickness of the fairing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fyPpX_mMbYqeoFxjAGtzJZ6CfmBH2tT76puKBWie3MT9OciL4eaPOxCTrk5jQ7dpIRUr0GWx_pBGz_9i5rC1H7l5FZtn_h2mW7xyxkyiHXKOBlNhIy9Ft3ZoSrbsnd-v2Oelj6D4BkkOgkbkR04FX0ccdFVrAMzLaW3pb7h3zN1r6RN7BgldtEyPAED7TjnK7uyDRFXu2sxgwdq1pnWAqERQU-Aa9iwEcR8A8kenX1GZ0eC-loj5_5hY2Uevfl9xBprr8mIoppSdDsTNbUlUaSmHuf18E8fUFf3AJ8lsXEbH77RwzdS5rYvbkMO1Hlux8WSSWmsICakZtZBal7i50sYhaFDy2Cn7VZm7gPaXNyzguOauzFR14lEGO9P6IuDoimLfkAVxmdSWq-YYPgrMk96RK1J7Q1tl-0kUdPmN80hndq7bzzGv1fIB7UzZme5Gq2rAfhJrsS2RWGAkx3gPJD8GzT7OlFY6WAKhvZBVul48BdoJYnu6Sd2AqFc-rG2cb7yM76ovpbYvFvoaFBUbTPg_YD6Xap9o_fvzzu6MUTdbYrJ6sgZAN1LvVsY2aqSB9MJ_02ABLlUVom--jUd1HnpnI-UpuDxHXrEwX4wk86HICex4KQ8fSMQOO6LO-blmzdn9EoNjS3lWF8SimEN0T2PPTjm52CROo9_bzQ6KNX0=w813-h609-no)

And I flattened the other side down so it was squared off 7/8" from the bottom.  In hindsight, I should have left more material.  If you look at the plan in the book you'll see the cut I made previously should have intersected with the inside bore.  I decided to let the rear plate be slightly higher so the fairing diameter would be closer to the front plate diameter.  I didn't account for the fact that this means the fairing wrapping around the plate is going to come up a little bit short.  You'll see that shortly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wneGRHmO6XFwBCSf788APOyxXCqj4aWzHuQgtAZVIbbo_e2PxO2_tJmPv0wVPf-cNj3zDBLiCGtJ-vUYRv828H7rF0ByMmsU3JYJG4GpfIa0jXhNZOJp4_vsPCUxx0vlu_WW6RLXISIrCFNQjj9A--CViHKXxqtReriDezJrqM8jJ1dVteEi8L3hpOsgyVE7ecZVtZ7ppeNQ14RHAjGUDWFTnMsNabVwcnNjYX8ZO2wbKwiTBSOHqewqtWhs5ozeSF3zAGL7H5jjoPlMKFOHbbPyt2HJNqcO9rtzJHWWSWSxsKw5kg3u2tO8Rp9RU3JIeH1kdiPwHbwfVK0r7htrqEF6Rm4kHcNGcyVSjdE6Wm6_V0RGs6Q86PknfEj7oc_JcSJml6pGLkQDB2llx5Zhsyl_g7pbeyeh86XywrEGnN13HKd5afOH7NNXj_8pun--ZtxmA0gh_ar5QoAuoUscVOJFE923hTkPpyavzqZwiSK313CzW_SlhClotlYMDW7w60mgsMe7YX66A90InLCBWlKICH-XCaY740H_3N-0jIx5Dfhjikn0tpI8vLY7qgo3qlaUZ29afBsd1npL4id-tg_SU7v6KsiM9D0vwn-vd5iI6aDxMUQwFr3tPeVmEXnkPriLL5xe8Unh8YLM9_K8JE0iz-VVdp7JgQoY_t7e2_s=w813-h609-no)

I clamped the fairing upside down and indicated it straight so I could very lightly machine the underside of the bent part.  The bend part wasn't perfectly straight, but was only 15 thou off so I gave it a try and it machined just fine.  The alternative was a little bit of filing.  If I was using JB Weld, this probably wouldn't matter at all.  Just fill the gap when assembling.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NSGUllsgJFI6k13Xgz_VcAYIdF_kiBotoMGtOpAgPn5SJyrsp0Yd2lR3A7iDFhejGOPJJgYFYWiTxaZEUzmU1-quwMu-WhmFfsP89a4u_cRIlnk5VrfUNtar6uYpWkCIL8U0RM49D388O6iFoTpIXJ60wgIOJAYCchKjwdo4q7UaKEOnGtHupRdXNyuQzFvF-JHKW3NmVIG5qjhphkdrjm7vWctMKcF2sU1dzge8RYxJtWa5xX5AX7o4ThZwp3B558_ky8kkncf1D5H4o9U6qEDNgx6onoG4yvPgt6KAWuBj-eFeja_pETtqnU6KEr7Td_saQP3PiOCd2nRdylXbmS4_EtKckmRNd_8ZvARex1-da3rsy55rQnhxUxhmcahKyCdXzNZnvfvuC82SHxY2QgT0-wMbcxweFDonjta2pN35BURrTDJbFRklef9ftetgqTeLELj6F6bI_pbn-QeNB6s-h4_Elha7VOpUE2oYiDAQoz9EM3V-n1KHRrxdu600Esp1LYU3QwjuzXOvZ8GdY8O2F5s15jIfsC4RiuxOtPsNk_pWBdZ3ZthfTTHZToRxKDMlol8jRR_WGUqtVSgCgWn1fmygg1tKu36l8xmjwjBdvHeIdv8ZWQlXXq5eX0e-K4Cs0niu3vv1NwZWj6fLer2ROtTYKUD0IkVfGYEMtig=w813-h609-no)

And here's the not-so-great fit.  It comes up short due to the larger diameter.  Oh well.  I'll fill that little space with some JB Weld later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qpAaIKfkWFgN8EiN67BZb-tuEqHqIuA5rRpTNk6ldvGrGiS023Rbnjtm70pzY7M9-9RbNYfGdz9kTcP7iRN5FcuNKryIp5uVWEA5w1kTIBHwXbX6Z4SLkKeWHhw81QNQExVtYs-ErN8nCle9zXkMMcRCv7Y5gZZSMfjKD5QuIQ23epQgw21eV1YkYZp0yii9i9xW1t9Ti5Ems2Ei-6hkHr9c8CzKY9KojNpy03FYwGxhXfW4m0oYmGO6Xr4Is1_CcwCYzIvRD8dENxpdI7gbkpCbuoQVDdoNzROEuW7DlaOKZj26ZZG3bZMcQCyrQ8Q2RM5yN8YWLBRmSmgKm943AO2P7lQj77eovqhqS6Zq3OdiERey9A3fwvQhcgtzu6mM9RLhiaJlvy0XFZ3m_g9C_zvnXMRVmds-DLjexGgplhnQvNsvH2YcCYcBQb95UgfkTMocpmrpz6MAMRgczC3p0eMVM-5nXtqIeF0FAPpK2-TPqDn7CPtY49AW6HUiTx7PYUsuLtIrOdmFHdtt6fknLoAUKwLovywaTXtI1WvRmQlX7j7ULDxh7BrlK5VfLiX-cYPaqWwwLoZsLZXEG-jov5agWN59BaSf-z-CwFRbD0-f7z6tUg_Ylks-_m8IwGP1OwKxtWkGX_NI3IVznvo7V58WFPkUEq6BXVWHAc7Amro=w813-h609-no)

Finally, it was time to turn the bosses on the ends of the crosshead trunk to accept the two end plates.  Here I just turned the front side.  Note the base remains screwed to the trunk so that I could also face the whole end to true it all up.  Therefore, I couldn't use set screws, so instead I screwed a little plate into the mandrel since the sides of the trunk are open anyway.  Note also that I applied a little dye so I could see what I was doing.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CIYVWIHFG7Jwdpdes-ITxw-5v0d2PgdpwI9XdmWiPmJeu_YtK7RrKwc1IqXGCkijKEH4LM2_iWlHw6pkWU7mphikl-PQNQpLsKVihV4BCpGsbLjeSlNhM2-J25ImgKvkF7rUEtDmu6XGAHMBX52_KpbElYMn8P8uOW0r7NN5cq7uBzW6HCaqCTsiFker9HTKo9Jlif3DPDQpUi_w3I1F0C1QGN3gbo8eh4XeLbxVg_r_XaxMuWfzm6Nr0nl73deFMRKAMdqH9ov5DSkOP63tpRHcXM5CIQKdkPGWZ_noHf_jzjalT_uEC9dtLVExoD0teQgd6wDYx67krCMXGq3C4A_oymJIahUVygTPxwhyy4eZ9wgCAtLY-Yhzug98jAvQgb2KRh-G4rYR3yZODIOP94RaJxDAa-END23r0zs_aaAulax91ZP6lAdkAmHpWsYBmE2SenX0TTrMo6RvyJKtjxgIWLj21HYMBnuOcUyksQfkDTOxXo6KrlNExnc7L_U4DfNgFfqBfl1Ysw1leTFmFKaxV-AcT6zTthBi8kaCH_0jOocD8bMxWNDlN190apAbrp6vqrqTRz6vk8Yo8dnT8bBxiw5KTJlE4Ecr5JWL3MbiCVauAwFMh6zN0qiZOCnzRxgvMFq7-QrD13dxNi8Y6Y3zeZ5H6w798pubKWjEO_s=w813-h609-no)

The other side of the trunk was machined in the same manner, so now I can fit the parts together just a little bit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5PklaoLFabaTlBFDoBZ2SqV4w7b29IFOmiU7AXsYxfj5-ZUyRX_YAp9NGCAdUA64t7gA5Y1f_Yd9gWTL2peuulDvScXSwQEQ3OcoZ-d1hcY9ERrDoVvYPzTjEMBggCEiUAlbLy0o2BJnBvXoMCdCct1c5mQE6gjAFTVkhg4hl4r44qXTOHKdvioUsSWDRb_U_ozII8gROgGB75Vz2XeEucggVBBIUXpUODqY2787QYwBBaLx5CcpmGcPvMF3VpJljcWcdO6Mp3sOPRGNE2EnfP26CbriRfAA5MqcQ4UGxsctHoOhSBlrocam_QpHZivs6ZqQwDjVW_YXuVl5GeymCsl_XFBggQUFTXmMTTfNRNxZLcahvJSQYIKg2_Azem4HX7QQ5pk4urhCHcDF0qVGyZGBI-zHMXG-dsWcKbCcs8WZAmVpG8D2cKQmHgpKtKyahyx_UJZk9y9rodr6DGzegF0ElNVH5iT1hKNZV10FWVyJCrdqXDdVRcRbahRafBS6qghY6H0NrZKqSrUAH_fX1TZLP_F2-M7jKQtBd95OJJskqwi2VNG6dis-6tc-DTQBmuNjy3C045UkxL_ZO-6IKgyEnYrJHZUkhegbD-EWDwf022Bo6_JVB_uHd7M2Zv_Cv6kFBrQ2RbHQyxWwcWjRdtvn_MsWfpG36WYbD1UCvhU=w813-h609-no)

Next I need to make one more part to form the back side of the frame.  It will need to be a bit higher than the plan to account for my short fairing, but that should be easy to adjust.  Then it's time to solder this up!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 28, 2017, 09:08:31 PM
Finishing the Crosshead Trunk Assembly


In this installment I almost finish the trunk assembly.  All that remains of this assembly is the back part of the frame and then a little fitting work before soldering it up.   In this next photo I'm milling a little swoop in the frame back which is 5/16" brass.  This frame will become a bearing for the shaft, but I'll leave the creation of that bearing for later after I've soldered it up and checked that everything is still straight.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sexMKzUxosbZjJ82BuzFitg3rl0-AqG74wfNWwMzSfPlFJdtmLdlKt4bRmzSKv558oZJbTaKlRu8TeUyIUpHSQkoev6Dac3lT9jbDUlO6Z48cCKjW2K6VphFKwGRAbO_TeGfbWgmtsLwWZYPxP2VhRCxCN9rPO6R3e-v9uHWf4ldwlBKtD7CzvMr0uC2x3gUb5vrhgyPv3Oh5j0iW9TY2gsxBPwZe2OcOimepMwrfvk4PQe5DX16ojn7V9CfSDZL-Ipq5dNq10CYOIpHTumogTdte4RK5W0EJ6Yt47hZuPWOuR7m6z8KhRJ0c0R-JOAfvPV5AJMVh9qXwnBnGTCSxRGKgdKX1_WfZPiQ3UdiUENWiLTh6C07z1BK-FYKQiPRuhKEuZYjbntPHi2t28J81FmIDAQjiUfkN9idanzYRxSFJGN44ylQtabnMp5cjw9N8gi0XBlearUvnPNvchbExNgD5wY0GurMI64GiQMQRW5Aa96R1DJcPQZKB0uLibQFL4O4bZ1zrpxWAtegofcfjBIrn34Mekrv99IgRAVnxFugewq5UMdRypVkFfRvpYMdOeIdUhX0nk4icZiMt4ZB45RoDNzA_3BD43nTP1PyR_9alxgPP0uh-iwPoSNnerI_thHfzHaabl_hCSsG4I0fEFmjhaNcRwNRM3IBAGrjn0M=w719-h539-no)

This part was intended to be 0.875" high, but as a "fix" for my fairing which came up a bit short, I'm leaving a bit of the frame extra high (1") to meet the fairing.  Here I trimmed most down to 0.875, but in using a 1/4" end mill I get a nice little curve feature into the part that will meet the fairing.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aK5NfDD9D7b_QKC5w4s1b_gBLnqDmLUpDc8qSwuatamSRViiXjDCsalwjyFTmiIvUqK4_rx9Ds-NBKvMLkY0uMOAFKz8GIkJMKD3MJjHsPxa3BWhzABLioNRwIAjfvAcI1VKil-EVG9Uu1LFM7Tksi1ulnc1hMvec4VqlSlmKU-YkC1hmsjPeDTFKbsoQ4OkF2vVGkF23BjyCu7iYUBcT4iLlaagr8rOhKffxDyzJvDOYjZxf-Mau8guw0GcqwPxuEGNIEcoarjUTckB0obID5WpoLKGlxbbUb90XHDNHxE9Ym_bde9K_dhsaS-r4lw7nMd7or46djYR5RWLPBhFActkuyWVfV7ThM0rWzXMkatGyGJjeQ5Cjfdpb4mMwsCslbtMNCjdvE5ulM0kTboHSJBQikIqOkjxYXpZnQsaXKzIvMQpi64-BYLGIPzL_7R_EcWjOpFolar3wT8Aofx5pt6m4tpPWtYIS7Tm_91MeiHxooTWW3ScBUz4pElgIorJ_kwHWwJ3BrdfBqJKBfc6KqpD4jxnKVOMR0IrD_ZASfiw_U6iJAtiZy_YG6XUqVrFy3upK4EHTgUSvyw-ZA4ZF0mPrEdm5gTsymzyQdqATeBzSN2iU-GYWZZ55vJwlfE8d7DdNfmy9dFfDBttpztl-krbyEGUg54Sq5DrH9YXJwY=w719-h539-no)

I had to do a little fiddling, tweaking and trimming to get everything to fit.  Here I'm trimming the fairing to final length.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g2-rdrZhyaKHwzOpVh25D3jAXOrocCz7qje6yOlQ-fNjhPFGC3d0JMWtvuOeQFFn98gt_KPq7EEzWJUNzw_NyP32e6KltBcc7J7L3sbkbZ7r6x9r1TIsLbC8CS96IRjge_z8NB9zWz0fNZNNKjoarVhsvPvejj3yM8dpcN4brjHzuDH25hf6e3E31_Js9ZxgcYlBTxk-vy5yZ8O45wic23gceYCw-rACmuuK23nSb6LbdxdEtH37x90Xw3ZuFZpX0ZbdRvQT1arsHURRuTJdC9gxoOQVS_4qALrmHLreA5jWQCu0g3boYdBJMhi5krzL513rV-nOdp9CWMsh2SVgdm5syfC0diRDfoIzLgsn6gTdYMbK1vB1MrTuYtiheJm6G7O0zZTjAcnZ4N4k-ycx7JU79hutNuEC1LqEUAxl7hEM21oCsJNwlfcwpJn8YmKdvg4TEN8qkBtgULnfo0Rc4aIJ2Rb5H_k9bWC7fQlqdZolfde5oAjFEHx5P0n01XRxCjCT-gyS4vQUxWaPNpShot8WqiY7mvwCtahzdcsXpIj1WRkwm7-otCV4KjVJ60H-3cEsrD1hLXdMuzhDiWZYTVEjkaKbw2_n9ST7qfuDnobMzjLUpXJo2zfUYF-TomVHa9CMd9CZxrUpJtn7eWEQjvUjYKtbo-nkREYWHwXW88=w719-h539-no)

And here's the assembly on the firebrick, all cleaned up, fluxed, and ready to go.  I buffed all the mating surfaces with green pad and also used acetone to clear off oil.  Then I used the flux that came with my Harris Safety-Silv56.   You can see I fashioned a bit of wire around the bottom edge which worked because I fit a thin plate between the frame parts that (hopefully) won't solder in.  That little plate was cut from scrap that's white so it's a bit hard to notice it's there.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pCnU6NrCMrcw8GD9lpAIqQB0b8MtR7_1z7CzOmf6V2Kpn9lVCrw47-mRzZgg-VcgMHugdcrzTjZ-MNa8Vcj5C_CtFTQx3Za7hjILgCYEcq-IIMU_Lg15aYiFHuF_Q4ANA4L3U70cyqT7VnAs4joaXGCgDNAkbAB1zvuSW22IRPIwwEZUWHpJiF7JLINIyILs4lWMc6absNET-dV4VgbNq9muFCC6WRcUvSMq1gpmkpTxVQFminUAQE19Ev_CJIX9FvCPyF13e2OVCq6RMWaj_islMOhE0cedShCZPFrK66bYJCr7mv7lTQwBaE6Tj2n8vlz5mZ1ddPeDYMWwj1Jlq_yJVKwScUZZfjq5P53POtrfukUgk1B55AzshnYqvfxWgEr8Co0AsJPn5XO0rv23PyTMoUAv_B-0PSLkjdVTm33P3AI1aKDFGV4xcE4iQLrNhKWsZU2nQbhjWvQbAOWYI8NeIvcRCHNw6iD3Xz6HO_a_59r0v3so5V43uEb_9Xb-YfgspesDRkrM8wmtFgRhK-IWMVZ5IYXw2895ZxEW-Fp630Grv5wmKA-CH3wacRpXQG5Dc50zqUww4dRFmVR9XtyVUppyynGLhex9LPj8V9LK66fmOFDefgUbVism1MKtAsKH2x4R0uuN3yAC4gibzND-nlW0MG2xu6zzoYvuNvQ=w719-h539-no)

I have a recently purchased Bernzomatic TS8000 torch head with propane for cooking it up.   It seemed to heat ok, though I had to be careful not to aim at the wire too long, and it got to the point where the flux started to flow.  But at that point, I would touch the solder to the joint in expectation that it would suck in, and nothing happened.  Eventually a teeny bit of solder did melt, but by this point the flux was looking pretty cooked out.  Epic fail :(.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k9-sdCi9oUEXCnnHOSekQsShdk6VgjeTR27K_FXp0to36ArAuzrrT7mMz0YIrmWvN6ct3k7PNrCZzopfhhv9mu8Pjop4Mlq332BFbbaB9MxysQc66J4GdQ5N4DskOzjMQa1vhgT25lFu5DMHw8QETTChvdUtK-n6XC6SuIROVw-gbwU873J2-VHvmFswCUBKZ_4EQJjXuq2L43_1p3Y2TUNJcPnE4mOwqMBQPiF35ITotnsFM37Bv6gnTd29WJon2hOOsItpyplC5LhijDVQY3AiO4gYabamJkk5xR826OwBtb5rXyck1l6_aoBY1qnDOHPmAUGvYnP0KXpiC5pTHbslqiWkuhmk4u9POv5NZNRKm88GFZ9wT0zDe_rwOWaLEi5yP8vToCffsCBZZN9kkCIESRTxSsQ0jo8flh0KGVZlmWGo7yQy87PbKcNbTLWPN-BaB4z4HHX5hltcxUIrIL-KvbiTU_j0Q4VTtqloawF7Buh8Xh7XzXv7ZFVqlG7eK2XJX6YtexqFvZ_2Id8NIy-vg8HOYoNoxXsLqcEhKMjG0APJ-ZFWKekmx4PlbnNX2ycWfFh5cXb2yAhAdAG-m-x0Em_YH3fibyC7-8PkMFtH1FddLa4bE4PdjC0ZjBDO6fWpETS9Sz9ZZTM92y0X47Xina1QVW2q3MuWkVMTStQ=w719-h539-no)

I only tried a little solder in the joint at the front of the trunk.  You can see some bits there.  I kept heating a bit more, but since it wasn't flowing the solder I decided to stop and let it cool down.  Now I need to clean it all up again and figure out what went wrong.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 28, 2017, 10:35:51 PM
Well, I pulled it apart and cleaned the trunk and front plate.  That was fun...that flux makes a mighty strong glue!

I decided to have another go with only the trunk and front plate.  Here's the result.  It's ugly looking, but I actually made some progress I think.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1qrmrgf6AQp--YxsPwmQ1iuLEMl7-6SLr12OP0gs5pMqqvlpaaezmQ65HSPUkzpvhfdW5oMqOKA6jG-sl7RImbGCF32d8kjopfs6-fnYnONqc-B0lSTPz9IrbhXxxkJIwr_Dlzy9nv6o49JxJli_icL49IJycygFKDV-0VPl_AwGtkIiwSgQnzp4SSwsynVRzOD_ThjtrFX3pMlf5yCaJrtJyVzRD-cBUSXD0DokqIOeFh6jXtUN2opBXPXFXXxFw2UuR7RN1P5ZBcbVoDcrYA7NJ59elUDSk5Ds1SguLdF_1t2sY0F-g7OSxZIFkHJa2_IgrIZn9VQuhwbx6WL8dpM_K-9vObuTcYOsojT_d1PWcskQJ01qQEpqCeAbXeTeWAjr5BfKEiFuouIolt0FNLFqa3bnnJu5uIfBXRnUvpoooUtKD_wiG-S05ZlVlOIrwjun44TvVfaKDfSZeBeSOUwpA0I-cfAJlTrRAA6mOFAxbPkz68bDiWei7QonDqYoJuVUWj-u-Ql2k1VtQDuT0w-lFlPqKmD5pRb3BRWicDPjNPFoKJuSawAJaNuyWnxmenOyQICqB_KdGBY1IGDk5rMfgCwJjgOobnz8bB8rFI1Ab6EYFa-dK1TmOJDDc186_XSm3afnHZENd60aZWp7DLCVCeYvY7URA18-VM0miLc=w719-h539-no)

Hmm...it's hard to see the "progress" in the photo.  This time I kept the torch away from the joint on the theory that I managed to burn the flux last time.  I was only working with the trunk and front plate so didn't have to worry about all the other distractions from the fairing and frame assembly.  I kept going until the trunk started getting to a dull red, then tested every few seconds to see if any solder would melt in.  I never passed the solder into the flame.  And then it happened...a little solder melted and sucked into the joint.  I touched a little more on right and left.  On the right there's a bit of excess (the light gray in the photo).  But all in all I think it worked ok.  Of course it looks like hell, but it did before, too, and I found it does clean up a bit with a wire wheel, sandpaper, etc.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 28, 2017, 10:49:43 PM
Neat looking engine and a nice project. The governor will really set it off.

I also found this helpful for a project I've been wanting to do.

When it came to annealing the brass I was surprised you dunked it in water. I've just let it air cool. (I'm still a newbie.)
Is there a difference or advantage to dunking in water?
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on January 28, 2017, 11:35:35 PM
For the silver soldering, best is to heat from the back side of the joint, and let the heat of the metal melt the solder, never put the flame directly on the solder or it will melt before the metal is hot enough. You should see the flux melt and go clear before the solder will melt. I put short lengths of the solder against the joint, then cover with flux. A metal pick with a bent tip is handy to reach in and keep the solder in place, and when it melts you can run the pick back and forth to help spread along the joint. Be sure to heat both pieces of metal evenly or the solder will run along just one side. If the torch can't put out enough heat quick enough, the flux can burn off before the metal is hot enough, particularly on larger pieces of metal that wick away the heat. A torch with different tips is handy for this, larger the parts, larger the tip.


Hope that helps, sure that I am missing some tips, others please jump in too! If you can find a copy of Kozos book on building the new shay, he has lots of info. It was also serialized in magazines.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 29, 2017, 12:07:43 AM
Thanks for the tips!  I'm starting to get the hang of this a little.   I think part of the problem was simply working with too many joints in a single attempt.   I assembled the brass bits for the frame and fairing and it worked out ok.  Here's a few pics.

Here's a view from the front.  It looks much more disgusting than it really is :).  I found that if I try to feed it solder, there was no way it was going to fill that gap.  It was soldered plenty good on both sides, so I decided enough was enough with that.  I'll finish filling it with JB Weld.  The side of the fairing where it meets the frame is what I was really worried about, and the solder just sucked in the way it should.   I'd pull the torch away and touch the solder and in it went!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5sU1uEYGmXdH_ALIovu0HXNhQroXvtXJxzhYte7If_1CWrcA8xDikbNOrDW5eplT0EeYTLy1xu4aoDz0SiOirVGyyyEpnDBuxDkPqLdc-_9-eE9gZQFWz4qZ2KC0YF21J1bR8uYDX5Aai9ekMbTV_qYrbbrh04z8dTqTa3yHl-rUYIYur_IbyzP9gWJJ6WmKjfrVTShY0NBwhuH9OxynwE9L5svqyJ0rLpNP8O8q-hxglYCR29DBCKCsgwvBDQCy6Vb8wBibEizlToyqAHuMYfDjxDK_2EY1N4bX4stPATjG383Lg7I8vO0nh7gvLoTCmd5fKTs8iAokBOiPwpRbKxPL9V3bh4mhrvemfJKKkzl2JWs5GVlq2xJlmel-oejs3ZcVsDhh_sXPVhXgOugurdOlhvCKBdx4iVE-SyehdV6Q_vCt7DNE9NRAd20oxPK4om7rqdgnc1xh6IlzEVJtyfalrWBKd9XxJYIk6tGCdJYAc_VByXoBgZ1VIJJbJ5jlOnU9S2IwGzNO6eIjLQkz3Z6-lmYalQWOl1VAwmlLkWEd3LOmm0iGxi7e8yJaHa7w7Css7cHIL839AqNMAAUDjOSPCTvyLCnK0sjn5fVWXr9fN8Pe76IpkwfbcH8g1plWDJFIXqmz36WSfyTjn_V2cqJhpLKsJ8unfIT1A1JHnwA=w719-h539-no)

Here's a view from the top.  You can see I have a little spacer at the bottom to hold it reasonably square.  That spacer fills most of the bottom.  I was a little worried I might solder it in, but I figured if that happened I'd just machine it out again.  But it pushed out fine.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YSKXAYQ4azgZA-7KTSMTDLoSPWBHh6toc4hLFS4hrdjSOW1sXMj6wPneLbikPBRtelI9TpygNSnFL-bmVMkx9Yi9cq2lU4wTLBJUIbtZl2J2Iz7eanFmj5XyoA_UHqx9TM0k9jiqtfu3SDMwEHZ64wfe8C5ZZpq3HJTiv0cmr0rFzne5E3YvEO05gal9bbhMNqLbhHLHcQt-utWRqHuSZaP0abK5dDH1BsjYFNysC06XU5pv0AeLRf-8lNJh3zzeMZP5hF59aCf2K2Ztt-1yX7hLPdnBLpKiGz2NUdX0Ii_mGXcEg9AsEcYDnZCZQSnT-HDgTUHw4W67D2sTksUWmyvBKjfOpECpzyVRqwaNtTnnoeQKtAZjimVFbS1QijZEZoD6wb8iaa8nJElGQLA4NoJAVWcwxGKm0XczHrnlLKeEab0JfzZnZYSst0vAVQz1ZnTlscziaYvEwZVGbqdHshbmqRGBTA6rS-4M_qwQkOIm-blb9UHPwC5e0NmRKrVifJAk8ibx8TksLmwUANg9m0u7s5EpRjOHjj_VRqybXcez7PUkKRTM7XBeVF2jvJ8aCqbtcpHl4RRIU6gqLDnEvmF2SwMM5qpZnQogdo6gfLbLH7bWoUnvRdAnzzaV_ja9b9FQR1QvajjEXZ3wKSpShmU7kcvDZb9KSFpWQkIxlc4=w719-h539-no)

So now I have two sub-assemblies, rather than one.  I think I'll just JB Weld them together from here.  The crosshead trunk bolts down at 4 points, and the frame and fairing bolts down at two points at the back.  So JB Weld is really overkill.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0aj0ByQspiDIU8XcFh0pmrsV7FY-hcktWdZ9AvCO_O8G2ZcWVzsdBqJLxZftlJJgYyw_e3mWkZy1bMOCQagunlqT7peGvXOOU95hk36pjIgT46t7IHUqOlY657orpX2980nLsOLgaPbiTzo-Gl1KM-1JC6IR3KqnsrxxAvkLC5EPBpwJmXFIGOF7EAwZuypHgZKYFOn9CX2EhucJnIQWEfuAtx-yYJjWop42qHyfPh5cxJSV5zwE_suppI1rYBiKefYmI6xN-mV0IhnqwQvNxmOyaYt4vZsclkkwm4K8p476uKgepomwXfglYWumWOC9KMdD3eZh1gkn4RVTXDbPi65g4aKZbEN60KXloFFDRY0wQkjqAOr4Tdx6IHmruLz3K48ioqXBsRjIsA-5Q_hgeZUfMRUZCE_E35CNL7LspGMesgxgA0E08_0P4q1LfWT_DusxhRNIs3qZFzUNMSml05Tr3N42TrslaqlgeAZ1QrSoNOtpuAtF712nxm7gGOxjPKpTODPv7rrBm9pTmkdYgJeNprdXVL7JSRVZV-xIt4koGntoTViNqg4T_EZTMaIm3-uTw5Hyj2pf8TBYGgNegHMOX2yyMWtcBFSYiXBABjye0dMGNXB7WHxI6wQRL8E3EGGVH5qPZSa2aPxkjMRZE3sFtV9PJgcOKhiKi0jQ_jM=w719-h539-no)

In hindsight, I think the two subassemblies are the way to go.  Now I'll have the opportunity to square things up a bit, which would be hard to do if they were joined.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 29, 2017, 12:15:20 AM
When it came to annealing the brass I was surprised you dunked it in water. I've just let it air cool. (I'm still a newbie.)
Is there a difference or advantage to dunking in water?

Zee,

I had read contradicting instructions on how to anneal brass.  I should dig up the links I was looking at, but one site said to anneal brass you heat to dull red for about 2 minutes, then quench in water, which is NOT what you'd do for steel.  But another jewelry site said you heat it and let it cool however you want because you can't harden brass with heat (it only anneals).  I'm not quite sure what to believe.

I'm still pretty much a newbie too, so I can't really say whether it worked or not.  However it did bend fine, and I've read that brass gets pretty fragile and will crack if you don't anneal -- and that didn't happen to me.  I actually annealed it again later when I fit all the parts together and that time I let it air cool.  It seemed to come out the same way.  So maybe the jewelry site was right.

The one obvious advantage to dunking was that I could start working with the part again almost instantly.  Well, I had to dry it off a little :).  That's probably the only advantage.  I assume it could warp, which would be an obvious disadvantage.  However, when I first started on the fairing I was going to bend it anyway, so I figured that wouldn't be much of a factor.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on January 29, 2017, 12:40:57 AM
Annealing brass just requires the heating, quenching will not harden it, just cools it quicker. Quenching a large and or complicated shape could distort it, to be safe let it cool from red a bit first. Same process for copper parts. Only way to harden it again is to work it, bending, rolling, or hammering.

For brass bar stock that will be cut lengthwise to get narrow strips, best to stress relieve it or it can twist, due to internal stresses during the rolling as they manufacture it. Easy to do, pop it in your oven at 500f for an hour and let it cool. Degrease it first! It has saved me problems when cutting a wider bar down, only takes a little time. Without it I've had bar take a 1/8th inch curve over 6 or 8 inches of length.


Steel is a whole different beast, every alloy is different.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on January 29, 2017, 03:23:59 AM
Thanks for the advise!  It sure seems weird to me that metal can have internal stress like that, but i believe you.  I'm very familiar with the crazy stresses that come out of ripping wood.

I filled some of the gaps in my parts with JB Weld and will be hopefully back at it tomorrow :).

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on February 01, 2017, 04:45:23 PM
I haven't been able to spend much time in the shop this past week, but I managed to sneak in a little time each evening to make a little forward progress.  Here's an update.

I filled little gaps left from silver soldering with JB Weld (I plan to paint the engine), so now was the time to do some cleanup.  Using files and sandpaper I cleaned up the rear half of the assembly and then did a very light facing cut as shown here to  straighten it out.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ri75L8ZM5xEQC3fm1ZOw_P4S5rbq2JJNHPUXpF6QYpZKc9FIuJL7rRwhJeQNMDFvUSeWxWFqU_tjpFm69nkabzVtdjsiD-gdeBLgk4WJ4rcFEdFQORbxqIMO5ymCKL3WAjCyUxxh2CZTvUHfstfUlxhH_m8ZA7kFO8MpXz-WCo8wXVKS6Tl0t2VSsNHMjJi-NKWzW3G9-vRmS84UDrUEjYE_md_qyG8ALD2ZY8lfgrYxJfkjVSMQ_qm1qznoGgnMDTa-yBepN9WazXTLqzHtizogtOU8I6duFkzt23BpES1w4HKnj7_oAtyKWjcKb30K3bpWJ3jRhzQJ-6C2-ZlUEtTKxjts7fCBMci6GeOrMxKrbK9TLiPZF8bzDnzDF4kLbYwXn1PxXHR8uW3hocmlwb9XinqPzwvYWzGeMLbJx0cLKf4smYQN4yxskC35-w2HcjM5Hmz3oqcc9HNn96f2z2RK3PBN0CZhs-J5tHAVfTAQlRt3VOZpaCpl0mkTdiI3PEhyI_8hnglnoVWS_ewu115XyfhOrMhpZ205IiPVshOwf-7OhSViiFeMM8JhYw4Nqnn6Vv0UfY-fjgc92u0DT2uA7XVmWKYVkoTv-348Wn1gLEfgZSH8r640jJmVBLMTDLHAIsUrUaDC3DXIOOYtrlmF1-y6FfU_mpv2JUeqGok=w739-h554-no)

I did the same for the crosshead trunk (front) part of the assembly, but instead of trying to square it up in the mill, I put the mandrel back through it and faced on the lathe.  I thought it would be pretty difficult to get a non-square cut result this way :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e1hkC3Axo-2r5LCRr3MHkRM1KRJJ2QYzuOYKd5Uc4ofzKKTnL5fiae5GZhD43EX_mbQ1sboEqhj4kjisjIzh44k_lAQS5EpcH6gAArhihagP4TGG0nZp7BPVEFjyvESnpKMnq1KPglLI0t4FTXCdrmkuV1COCYQo9BufGdNrU6Wf7Xi_xkoSsrWR6koIoJYuFUB6G8XBRm3X9qBk9qHiqef2_z-F0KcWo-JSaeMPieK2dVgf_Zhz71fGqPpASCZx8jEpPhxKAOlcNdRVPTKTESev1J1dE5zibnWw35oruU_lglt9k42lwcxq7wjXM8aT1g7YyCzuIWgsGNa2DE6mG3TKIrjOttvXykJk4HFKxYeGb6yY7o7oMVSQb6-h4X8gipykTo68YybaKo80gP5N744iZFqThVNCB3jmw8kYNiiYsW1AzEOXmh_W4pIslD0mdszyvgySdUnaJp5cfhBwn7WXIeYR2nToE1GszAvmh3YuBlJMM2j026kENEbE2eb02jKLkZoEbJdBosBKX_HxcplIoMzBrkt273jc4tL-j_Iyg9atSrlwZOHjUUR6kzJn6fNZg_sdUYi-ttqjGY7LKZyZaIF3oUlw4P6dZ4LyJ-VFrWBCZBC7JDq_IxEhH3Sgk1-EL2pUFeMvxeV-ST8hSC_B-jYcqGZCOxq_VgroDzk=w739-h554-no)

Then I did another round of JB Weld to fill any remaining rough spots.  If you look at the previous photo you'll see a little gap between the lug (foot) at the bottom and the front plate.  I filled in that space.  There were a couple other touch-ups in the rear part of the assembly as well.

Meanwhile, I machined the basic shape of the outboard bearing while the JB Weld cured.  This was pretty straightforward as shown in the next couple of photos.  I scribed the angle and set it in the vise by eye against a parallel.  These aren't critical by any means, though I didn't want them to look awkwardly wrong either.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KVAMHfqkDTbPuzT5_2e5kCZvzDc5ylF7GmXTH2aYJycjs0GSBUqteyL97GL805Djh-36sLmRXpSZme4kwTpbUk87y750AIlqo2Y1DpdjNDxcnzPwQbZ8FB6CFnK4FS_o-p5oRrX870XG77rD01TKlLZ2qLJ_5jOw_CRKrY-ptq7l_Y9iwjVM8z53f7P-KUCgh2Esp2p0pizIDOCQpeZFqEwcio2hpThNe8ExOg6PeU0Gk0Cx2qNuJx5M5Jkl7IgqU6DgLlY6VVC6uKu27YCRnD9Y_Pqbcllw3KSzqYgeltEZkNZs_xDqJBQdFV3i73t5wue0zzx2cmA7n4wce84Aj2gFjNpoJ23EAGBF50tMa6yi4agrp2TX71nWm6Bi2_k1w8_m7GMFEMv3rVETtmFI1_Fm1fp-IVDYxGcaV0iPnsjIhxFjsjMlNxr8j-SZEP1OfOoutZLeytPg9TMpGQeGFa3rSb09asQ5fcX2cfyezT1zBc5-zL5wArDVK2uUnWMW29xWSKMfaCPQOdj_6_JMOOLtDXcTUjlqnFwq56vT3E1J2XgNopMhqKUUly9RtwEQQBvJ93a0o_qOATwAOtteHfCSDRV89ZNkYW8SgCpVFo7C8KDo2Jy9tflVbJ1UtzLBZWQFrpS-NuhPDJ28ry2DEnKnBv-g14Ka4egumBitqU4=w739-h554-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HwiEJzqUc0GTXKdkzVH58gtencjClFnQV7EPgh2BCzjg5df6tS3wDtdbnAmJ_AghKUxIwPe0GAjo8j4TPImGbfzTgV09mCARNMAwtGys_TNFWavFiO02MINoJDPpN7CZGMNfQpm2sAlg7Nc21OnaLq87JwRwpmW67tG7e17Ooc1ievWjdwwjCUodmsUmxdYJQ_3UK8Dr8m3KVjAxxDnzlHzHs0Y-8vu6IBtKQNh6mG73NEpW-zMeVs38AXBBTTOZv6IDIcPlV6iAAC_FlhT-DNZcaYp-KFGu0AkNA4ZmBtbuuPy94nl6JlVkTBxP0SLHMrM0FhdOjrEsBKdKfXq54kNeNVJdvJhhyvOOzmYO8TGLRBiahNc0QOPr7unZ_MhS-KvvsJFZJHn8LbzYFav3W8vlG09EiJgnkx7gTdhzl_86x4ZIuPVoJb_wCpudFJKRB4xWFGLUUqOrq2fZ48LXTMNPhVXFVhIvLqm3IYFeUDt16boJSbn8vhjKH-1EwR_tqozCRncQ9tsbqoQzAADCcRV--FxhbVU28g-6MHul6Jtg0UzH9lwbjt4Ahtz5UiNLFVi0pbspg0TXrL2WDCRzeO5F3-mpmz7tQD-U-_-P_Dr7tWhwCceREXnul8xZvnaj0n2IqsG0TkLCt4ogK0qfdtrYD08bLGSGMt02fmH5hIM=w739-h554-no)

I drilled/tapped a bottom plate so I could screw down the front part of the assembly with cap screws, and then glued on the back part with JB Weld.  The back part also gets drilled/tapped after the JB Weld cures up.  Really, I doubt JB Weld was needed here, but what the heck.  I used a mini quick-grip clamp to keep the back against the bottom plate while I used the mill head as a bit of a clamp to push it down and keep it all aligned overnight.

You'll note the parts are magically looking much cleaner as we go.  Lots of filing and such to clean them up.  That silver solder flux is godawful stuff.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_y3C_qvoMcTEoSURVpDNDNiytoBKvnGkqTM77CNut9Sj__z3qRy_nqDC7rEvjeDXqXiXvrQvIFp430qG-ZyiuoVFCVrR9utdQJtSzidXNIHNr8gEn8dYctWEVaUOeXDHm9op9s1jOalOXDyFqmLTjMM0yMI9X33I7yQoOElLuwpxUbFLmC4PsA2KFl9Z6Gziq9hSKm7qa7wf9LNH6ZZLvPfS0Cgh6288xKjYMNifQ0gIC2HhseYPeYGddM_KTyfpcgz-KYOyptxzwQybcJf6Ktp18r4zSKmj25bCN1__FVfZCyVDBTRlbUo1F7HlgyBbi0ZBJEleU79OPXOWN6-R9g61VoivykpnBNIH98ME-vXXCSsCoeK2UKAad6NSLBpKNCLruLrnjcp5BeJBgasRDFx6IA6xV_sCQdU5p8F9ibSgU7z5YQXVgQUTIzdkiOwA8YUrVUE72sinJBoHXroupo4STNWcFF0ZI3-M3IpTKS2kJB97SXPf-TPuvXWkj58MpBXflkut5gnmRnTuBwSeMHKHQ0giNEHg-rJdVWgobhrndkYsrF-Xo2J57dcR7bbgMHBQewJXlSMSJCC3m_OpkEHEPCvgb6URqLlmcnX2K56wnAbJeLBH7_WKw8hl783aso_Ogr-XGTfCTjksESWdBGUJxk9oroel2L7rKPn4Ryk=w739-h554-no)

The next day I was able to drill for the back two screws.  You'll note the bottom plate is a teensy bit over size, but I trimmed that back shortly after this photo.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/utgwkFjtHrTnU9UYsJErsVj3e3hH0wgcJUiPdv_gnjO98pg5_ck7z9ePKmLt9QhtqzTk6U3s-dqNfphRT5jgCo0qbfk8hrkuDkoVyt7Kh9hTLPHKqPKHpU-zL1FGxnz5iNQJoG3IXABuGlWhfp6oS0SaRj1payPwt3NIoVUUED-FeoeBZcF5Dd3gfs5B80_fa95fajdRT9JCCfUjFb6RhyQDRZlbbfyQgF0vZhjK8oW-uWhPxKb1ulP1eMJldg5V_14oD4JMtwZIu5NKMKkutfiMPI0EqMGHXb9kBQg-p0ckU6clAyoRHplZAe7bME0H_F2UerV6uRk5KfNjj1aLb8GsX5Agv1RGscPFNCxzsH2eedL74txx10rbXEilLx-VinFXdfyT9F6c69IgeWFNL9zlhU8FP90peHxqlg9e9EoWbebXcmvLUxL9sE9l48ClOmHkKhWhREAGUfmjZYOEEr0ThGO5auz3XXuU3KpzJwPzGvyVB-qCW50QHfUtmiZFZeREn01OM5RppkDUnjo-38xi61DC9n-xoqsiKi1opTu8G5FDptC_CoU-9VvyOPtAvOj1dORQmycHSA3msvqYExQWmHQyI0LD41mN4_sU-ViZA9MD1528H7kqq_QdiAhoVq5KzO0MmNGlcuNTGoAnKA02tLPl7SITMsChetUq6uA=w739-h554-no)

And here's a couple photos of where it is today.  I'll be replacing the cap screws with studs and nuts at some point.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sgVoz-1AApDUJ-Tg1s1n6pxgBIdbg-89SDQywNQjRDLxs_NEmBHrRDW1VJKUt3SIF1T8s5TtGMmQxWXoe3jEnED6QlzPUgw2U_XvC3XoypBtsyoo4-qHqqtuF3QJ3dRZMC14y_zWjTQOAWrV-llQ08lYdrciwFN2SaxEfD6o5_8tW0RBZ0DaejGOZxt3mIvv1CxQjxMe4lkMBRVvd0qkX_N1BSAYgLDWdq1HlK1mN6xmVIsKiHnrqyPM5ojCQzJ4dbDUhspNx6qCGolLHpL-HNTXGvCYMRbdV101uy4FaHATb79y-lIYSpETuWgLFQ6e0DLX6XX9Gg1o5W6xmphjIo2PsfMC13cxmDVjgl_4xKmdcVi5V-A0yj2z0Lb_d0i1EW1X3d9dxsSPf82uTaEep1DCQiptjG9Esr3moOsXGAF0poxM6ozh2MVrd3oFV-xEwsF1n1SoinxNPp-cW068t5dcklDjib2EwWHhtsL7Q-OUS8oRaWdsgRspcSOIdvCiAWCndYyxw1rnVPGmcCJOqDsbGZsfmQgOdIwD7vCtRs42MvhdkkDGBDAWFtOoXNxWKrled3i1GdmWc_lKnQ8hmi5mjtAwGmHpFWabXycW38DwppQO_hVLr_VholQ_whc2mXxUs-KqX3CDoUhjIytINTI1qw7Dt-69OzfnvaKqt7M=w739-h554-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KR_FJSSKsGhfX5pwhOdoM9K2eFHb4y5T3irF0gY9bTr1WsVCbPRXskHNSA3na8P6a6gl_6hP0z9EHPtahM3Dxp3HZnhbxIQ3sxtD7HHQL0ENbGAJpRRILsIbpMPsXKYuVlvsDsxPLMm3b6u5XUu_agToZnK8oRPvHvib_8wDg1F-72HZ06vTHT8VD0DbV2RegDJlGhVk81mKb2uXz1v-LCn3BQU3HAuXZ8_-gMS0QwcbyAP3zgPAzTnbB_4qeSiC405eE5TjwRNKUigpIyjL_h5fLcHPbW57hg6lSeBpI3pnTL6hCwxg_JcVjuYHOk0zxSdPCtejQobCnej7p8tYDqGvqnzVyU_1HFlpwG3cW3rSEeulkjC6b14BH3DOjzJMUXeljMOEvnsJa77ZG1xK0wpx6_yv-Xn6KStMm3IvCJJjj-9zs0lQfYiqUQGTyWVe7bDOZQFr-U4748EINgmScRMWUnoyXpbJPhOGluVsnwyD07w5QR3fOcEUCa9ToJzK8k_RrwLTR9vbkUzIYSKAUsAO_SW6L1oc7Cj82QqCyOMhL5kkgRTtfNMTd3VSN-rdm-SoUOvcc9x4y5f3bd_UCg7Ot6TXA5qzIgngSPEAUq5BIBStu960NN9rAZEsORpmLKW8zxx_wrNo5SMldEFzC-iFzktibXu4-GPq8MS2_5Q=w739-h554-no)

The outboard bearing I made earlier matches up with the frame back that is easy to see in that last photo.  Now that I'm looking at these photos I'm wondering why the outboard bearing frame doesn't have swoopy curves to match.

I'll need to study the article a bit more to see where to go next.  I certainly need to make the top caps for the bearings and drill for the shaft, but there might be something else to do ahead of that.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tvoght on February 01, 2017, 04:58:03 PM
You're doing a good job on an appealing engine, Todd. I'm watching.

--Tim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on February 01, 2017, 05:55:17 PM
Its comming along.

If you are going to be doing more silver soldering then it will be worth getting hold of some acid to pickle the parts in, this will remove all the scale, discolouration and old flux. This can range from fairly mild citric acid to something quite a bit stronger like sulphuric and even hydrocloric.

Straight after soldering
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Thompstone/DSC01732_zpsrsft6zdw.jpg)

1/2 hour in the pickle and a light scrub with an old tooth brush
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Thompstone/DSC01733_zps6t6d87et.jpg)


J
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on February 01, 2017, 10:31:47 PM
That came out swell Todd.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on February 05, 2017, 02:51:24 AM
Finishing the Bearings


Another day of slow progress.  It's time for the bearing caps.  There aren't really bearings other than the bore and the cap, and I'll finish them a bit undersized for now so I can ream better later to fit the shaft.

There are two bearing caps, one on the frame just behind the fairing, and the other will be on the outrigger support that will live on the other side of the flywheel.  They are identical at 1 inch wide and have a nice little curve on the top.  I decided to make them both together, slit them apart, and then do the finishing touches, including drilling/tapping to attach to the engine.

I started by drilling a 1/4" hole in the middle of a 1 inch wide chunk of brass that's the same thickness of the bearing supports.  This will sit on the RT so I can mill out the curved bits.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IuGSdgDd3LxJwB3IKIHI9NH0qmgqA1_0tNVz1n9zfczVgvdOmS5vxDz4E6QuAkI7RpuuUd_x0LDcjLJbK6gtj-rr1iy88KjU5JCheSfqDYYNHJFb8iBtWSsAk7AcTJDn11cIwG6l6HBfl145d14GcfoURCSERk_eVVklOZl9EYBwGVN-quWm0TZLVabkIkSw7I7Mx6FFtTHLukX9Uaoe3u4_VGYk6TUM-0MW7PPaUXU6DRtrCLJpioBH5iGmj8p6mHOVwn0OcJ_emujI1m4rxpTNAS7zVD6v12Z3g6p7Y6A7yf0P1k1aIx79OAW3oiXUWpY_swduDA_ZKDd1wvipB28l0WsLn0Ag5s_gUe5fzyTkLXYvkIy7HIrQfjukbiREuvIRcHC1qrCy5UMh7SPmO9tTcVyZpUmpN0kKWKqgl3syrupiQMTFH0IByIgJ4pNSCHvjL5Ijmz-Z7ju7SyZuoZZTp8Bel4Lx2VOLxnTsfm_ovZvfXksjonnGN82c1hQJemvrXw6U383p2Sv-p1AdN3AbtEBqEcKJ89bwWkEPbiFxT5akX3YkCAutorio135Dw_SVu2-H-ycSnQI7RJEeeehfdHhD3Bo6lNyacuoC-umVzPCFPAwgtTIu_EG7pI5Gie3s05s4LCCU_HtaNpe5FSbXflffDJSCpILXeRa7LUw=w798-h598-no)

And here's how the machining went on the RT.  It maybe would have been just as easy to rough machine it and use filing buttons, but I happened to have a 1/4" plug for my RT that would hold it on center nicely.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JGrBKMG-ahGj8w-Tg_3YxqTvGldPYO3JDMTtx8I_LJGz8IAR1x7o1gDQ8k4tgCbETG35kYiJwXLBOKq6Ks6dT6paM3_qD8Pu_EjxsE5EELlGANAX78Bz1HeJKL-mAlohkhCEjdhBJH2n0yt9Vvb2ciZY3GxvECdd_ihWDMSWNBW9OeEx-ZTsYIDxJPjTP3oMV8hkTRc2m0jKv8M_JxgThpv7PlZ7gjOsq2OTzeCG7SyF97vRmBEuS0Pu5ZmS8Tere3EL-gQhY6dQ2b4aHDTPnS7JPcFZbnN-o0KWN_qTpeBc0Ho3Pj-3ae4FmiJj4MHwSVPPB3SRP31J9Rc7UHG5wSQNzj2jV7HBDMuoluXpzf_zTiKkQzhKEa7lK_jxeXP-LjgXY3DWBvvGtneo31xZkKk2Lx1cha14Vg-op9WpDNODMGA9VfEpIhQ8TNIfIGP1cGNI56eW-f5R3FGyqrv5QrWadT8CdW-5lVqPxQnLpSYVeDkcsHmaqDytlw3-Sm99Qd2GmreIDNzGZ-YmbY4K4hDTNWXR41tbA24jnanKYBnvR-rS86oD7dlpZIIp8BWSU9qXbILrHzDCLymO99g_XJTREYXeRYZJtI57eg5ErnjdVCvXQX1yqnJnk6fjTfqINQ5z5PuYnhaL7hUcsxzJvSA2SZ6Ic1wIeKSB8Ax6Asg=w798-h598-no)

I machined it more-or-less by eye, knowing that a little filing was going to be needed anyway to touch up the curved to flat bits.  Here I'm slitting it in half.  In the end it's supposed to be 1/8" thick, but really this isn't important at all.  I was just hoping to make it look pretty good :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xvfMhCgyWS4qQ1hYqTvTlKjvh5-iYmfiDK2nsJ_4q8Phij8dcbH7shGAKIjMGvR7BFFCjPngQIs5THt79BmaOmIehpBiUypDBKkidEqqaMk5ZjNQfgA_J9GtJTJ-rHWvUm_huWVHXgiugylp1P5RkHzTFUqB1V4UaybqAYqHEVTk8l7rHgfgFZZ64c3xgwq-dZlHNfO52UPJDjc8e1Zc5xqMSkHLTcerg36k-pXKYC7QmMoPxGAVR-Mtnzr3DN-rFiwgORw1Zbz31KAeTgb2I3j0qFYWQ2OUR_s2YLMlqKFNUemTlJChNatv12eJELnCLkF7qlKHi5eNyfOEwV2K7cSCX1eIjua7Bdi3w2mGtkBRNpKgqiLo7LBZoBsLQIT03i-SLZiLW5DXgDFY__GgUnP063zeJepwgNlFaO9YZXR4ZrpCOXfbvKAtt363F7Wix8J_s2M3iP4k1HEMY-qVKruXZo6U8c9CCxtx9l3N3G2ErCGUtYdfF4f0x4roVKP8OtUz3I8wj1WnV6PNvGfQKwZfc17pnFVRqnJrLu7F71-Udvb6zfWy1fFZzBzP4YESGJxRNwzChp7YakFHmlEMn9yMvNlS2boI3c1KrK32cHTxV2AvA-oA43N8IJd1y7ZWSAg9PmHhNO40_3UwfyxOvtJUI6X5u_FLSllcBuY8pb4=w798-h598-no)

Next I flipped it over and touched each cap off so it was flat.  The slitting saw was close, but I sawed it in two operations so it wasn't close enough.  I think my endmill is getting dull...that finish is awful.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q_DXCrOsljF6qp-BDnO-I4Gfv9YZZhNFPceBgPl3361MV54lO4cVIC4bI8xuVNIttNMsY92SvuwX5yYbxIXJ53hrgBDDC4j1om82f4fRplJH2xYw7_K05Q3xepKTqZtre5Gg0C8O5eH3DBhvT5RFDbnUPJBegnTaMWDjztlo7sOcXNF_BE6CJeTLiq7A30HaghNhK5SadrKUgyrpZN7vOVv9um6n3owltnyK7jWoWgDa4U3cXXDDqWTbxR0WgP92CvGN2cO8XMekWiAQgmRukzHPS9CXfPKOEKVwrUJBo9-4GQ-3nlNxZ-wGZVHshhkFOa0s2f58im-q-KzTa7GoCOLBwBd2cZQZzNYdy7UMtq092VR2Xg8kTBhOEUajcKPCNMmPdgfOlYCCy_KRJ9_oObjuD_GvQ88F1vqSfKqL8b8y9SjsGSVolarVC4bZ8z-8lG0VIhSybbLBS3u0B8AHiugoHnMX2sHlD0l3WiiqQexPxjhgKtV2xNGcYilHbo6OOkqSc38w56RPxACYxurJSBZ9_YNrY1Zr0MvXGl7Y4tLfTMwgYGxEaONpoLnu-iQ6oMdmW6xViKT2s55GekdjWtl-c_s8ukcxEECOq2E0vZ2Xjb72YxlSn22YRvBps94MP3MPyYFXDsrt9tVj15i5gAVW40KaTTvr6be00C6oBJc=w798-h598-no)

Then I flipped them over and machined off the flat bits.  I did one final pass to make them all the same thickness.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2qEfSFC4qybc5x9E5Bp5C6sPNM_5hy6y1GuomsE-bOpnAvFOffenNQRpsvEDQSar3om1eiACJAsnZcKXqXMSk_XSbmbLdOKApA1w-Kp7LBSZHvi6LXMNpdcYU9kW_QW5djfCQqHsFloJCxaUe7SGlEjQLSzlrpN1awDJZ5wTVU5P0u7r3gRXQmYQDNguPxUYLFWF_BaJ3ZgNmRtNJnxb3KAlehQhZ0XKfA8mNp1FVxiQXbmBOFHxhg2P4Q3Ga10ciwr8rudEOZiN2cFo2NUqoegQP9EYpTmEUNP2-GzWG0v00mSoyKmHZZ4IvUN8FLTQkP8KWk18E4ielDDv0b117hxHi-W85nNxYXLohnK0OHnyZdReq5zIgAAOZTfy7DHseRyRqBHIeeNDXxLMnr8riw8dFYayy_vJF7el8XZ5V-V4gZ-rhtqVrsjRn6TvRMmzHNDreMaQ4jkDQR2dtU5ddNU1mU4IiOvGuWf1U8XSx5y4krSSKYzkWxJZbFpTTtkUfrNSaz--RdAOdhZQg6bEVsFxL4HhrGnv0Du3-mdvQm-Kp1PavquLLSI5ryjpPgEtzbf5YEZAr9Oi5v0x_uSbK5SfghyJWFfKjrHAItDGnKy9LO3iyjVk7nnhKcB5vstQDPhqikMaKyZlJJMKAuiKg9xsupgDVGbv2jrIgiN6w9M=w798-h598-no)

Then over to the vise for some TLC.  I made those soft jaws a few weeks ago (referencing ideas on this board) and honestly don't know how I lived without them!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t9RXSV5MisuE_gEqYQ8aEHk-DvcMnS2bTME9xTY9Y75NVScI2dW1Q1r1cShqg0mA_DU4KmSyYuojJY01wsdx12AunRRGBTSTYHJ1SRn2LhB8VuIIRExpXvqb2SFqdR7SF37gLAai6vQoM4yJGPKpzxr-mRHyihnXm5aOME5iVSSNd6cwHo5tQCpZjYCBlBWSe8HZ9RGIEyubTcZU2tCbQmATSrYjZvrhuzVSf_Y_S40xplE-mb-m2R62LY3AQ3IC8tKQCEY5u9iT5R83SolsDK-DZeqqcqvnE2qDA6qbJUPBHKQ-6RBcbfNlcZk6ZMQpkOupqdVjJ4iWIoxnHiIeRL88jeV_DlACy6nAGhyXD2lviepmaQKaLFPTQEBh-RuJBUNFKkVr14UkecZ4ZW-aTgBa-zoe8bDXQc_kqBzhrIKmDLW2AQV2W34JDOsOMEmtLuhpCzlkfB_3JtXVoV2iO1UqLmS3bkozdNeefQ-jY7HJaUsF1nfM_oq9EVaNJPQ68zjc0AIhe2gPVuWPN8smlXAecm2ez5sLx4MzWjxf7MJtCqWfQ1-e0ZBQeC6YoEYBjsEbwYktH2WkJQkjV-NjuHonHwXK0lWKkxVroj7YFKawensOnHmiNvhMCRswypKvDRjogQWIXbETLx4MYqJmDNQ7422L9BQl0pXMYGuCFOs=w798-h598-no)

Then I came up with this crazy setup to drill the cap to fit the frame.  I had to jack it up so my C-clamp would fit.  I really need more small clamps.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VeNMdXA1Z7pfq2YRxXUIHSNEgGIRXVw_ORumqCZmeR5t2wiR0LguDKk2d38RA2MefLChWulrZ9CFsI3EEfLHUGYnJrOE7vj3o9yinyxM4CR3doyxc0GJTo7grkpBCwjCkcnV73f9bcxJV6i_xk9ag4bvwOR-gtRHEK6s3vc_v5qg37o8qbta35aPEFTwlIapT3S_A16AYD0iUDAoN_694lvZesmEbwn8TXFvDot_GbFzkj7NdJV5xuLPSXIpYb7e26DVIWXj9zQwTCm2qC82rFgYxe2mimwj-2KOnFFoAtFKNSJGvKXx_gDZIj7J---yy2HgyZfL6F1wadKqr-28wKFfzyOa1MZn5Vo5oNjkg6gB3hsML79UbxEmFUj_zpGixzvCl_W0jgD82Kqa0d4aLuT9LSdsTXww6D-YX3oM_vIIS-PjAQHWDiRfTmoQ5ZhPi8BAxONEOU8Xcf8PQdGZUhLS-EAhL0dD_53_Helj1btg2P3vN6ehAxdcEdVQFCb4q20qE0r65hOg3Xo9bgAv0VoSDmURvDuNyjm9geMYgm4-eNyNsOZnXC-dsloLHqMMvaLsNEDM_tflt7xTP-uqC23uELQFZWC6T1YqqAXui3VFgTP-zQPfS34LSuDg7DtXqMKQxyZa78GrzKpxuOe2jXNRXNpHWvYTZUN6xW20vpk=w798-h598-no)

Then another crazy setup for the outboard bearing frame.  Sorry it's a little obscured back there.   The 1-2-3 block made a dandy jig.  I forget every other hole is threaded.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iMkYtM3J7enWCQGmnqvSm-t8VAE-ugj5PVVqc06EsAFONEpcEhOEElC_oePG2cRW3nkxOg1YSIDXybVZuDh61gxSl_st8O-YU5QswJQLq-KJSR7bJbHyQnYnZqTpg65u-TWRvdYvPiheShCqL9F932yIHwbhDPaShUw_LU5VLLq9UIjr-dkZjrT1iQyZxuhVsj9JsZqVZq75wuSMNhBGnjMB8P8M5JMBWYz8pkjVeyM9FINgYNUFB9ql3UERavqnM8xrIPAAtwEwEtKWCrjc-M_Wjstbhn_iaoGAnz32dY33W8BR2eWNWP6Oku026RKDdK-itYJrMBK8p7tAUoXLDASJ12vc2aHAVFJ_3u5RgOjAr0PwtRgFhNqGtq7hkFA0cdkxk-GfwRwfrw5G5BXd6tQE3vQQsSEVunoebkh4NkfKkSvGbOd4-XUovDDQJ4c2J7aY07lhA-6z_LbRL-azEOlU_TfvgiUYNijF3q1Y7TLMAn63Tn6ewf8iw-vUpab1Kdv_pxutg0e2GifcH5LS4z3LE7_jZcNHNNLLFcRCAUwUMocrCnNHhqdAIwtrzR_JhdqdoHLqNTt0GEZdMvZtbWdOQDJ4Wdvf5C14u2dyFGAlL7NxipPVKKIeibBlR1ytjACpF9j6QE7g74pqtuaU0K-zcXllFLm8gF6p4KnU2g=w798-h598-no)

Here's the outboard assembly.  I'll change out the screws later for studs.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hP5cfOlPsECXqXySs2dC8EfDg1BIg11oqwzTLwQ4TZOg0fcRFJMecTtwr6ZstYE3vA2zovZRtQ3nFNPTolEPv9RNxqgWN5-oaOUqQGq5Mk2IO6ZEo5RAksTvMP7hN3AylYCM2aJ7YSYb7oiPPHEuoZRX6P9JVBUkZ9k4kohHdWRRiw6lFt9QscUV3Bi0o4roH5JfrIjrSy5zN5pwWM_6ifHzo_w9ZtjNEWVgrqhNEIh2zPM4RakYDZRRQRb7uvOgSnj4SJto33Wy4L0TQsJI69tTv-2S7C7pwYobMgsLrhpOX69kwS5kvJqZnNB7rwww_1evK-yawiPlF6ydZTgaGazoMCGVnkGKmbTl6AUroAAchzTtGzajET5qG_rXZDRuzI0evq-jSE5zit_Uz2thzHb9jAtcpmi31SK19xeiDhZdPTbcykkZ66Ad0Z4c1CtXdCyvfOx0G7h0NGIzV0DNCsEycfVSkq0xnXo5sTA58TUYzPB9ykScQDVVADQQkbBtKwUzBpOlT52pzFHbS_1a3EgL8TJMEwyHY1w4AgHA66fecD1kg-WQH-LG4nmlFOoPLuMLE_X0d9sKOlFmfMzT-7AlxY7_iAGyZIVTs_UsSTWDRD1hTCJbISpmm5Vgbl0JUhgrM-zdVBTA2NvUArNIyy42mv4lXdBwejIkKO5TBDY=w798-h598-no)

Now it's time to drill out the bearings.  I was very concerned with them being one-half drilled, so I used a very short screw machine drill.  If it flexed, it didn't flex much.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sq9KpwCdTNZE3_nkopaVinvzvcA2AkPEBiG7-dp1ixUaHc9FEN-9TIml4ab7ex40yr9-JRDfsfH_LbHve1pNlxyAG3u6ByF7RSaX6081BFU-NboGDVN-bIU7euNmS5U2Ma7pLTvO34KfEesZYkf3xFyraPKqmPHbt2ef27BTdQRpIwecsNsaLMoSOF0WGIi-IDHJBxdOQThCYEvBHK6UfJ5AERbaI_CSdVhJZ3JmSPePWlR5v3ngMQcDvUZVMSfKtpP5b42zDMArREPca2JdzLp1w2yy04lWXuQCd5-djsk9hpzYO4K7J0Iz_AawczB1r_82nKpQnwvK5KSQwkLZv1FmU98WMWxlEobHI6sR1ff8ScuSeSaQgS5DBzLRKbzy9vxoyB3gtl4oIadlb96T8QOFYvcoj80gGALIlM746iH6KbPS9PbuExUih5HOuxAlDub4Xq-5qTxilm9EZIJc8YeE6-GmAap3iPPV9x_kHSp6w5Wv8TLv4tH4vLkOGmX83p4dyjx-UVZ5pXS3pL1oqJr5TJ7i9LHV7LaKQCI3mT76saNdeZOnN11y2JEPo9QieLCJvS6VxzJ8oA4pSX8Q2oKUydjgIE1_gDTnrpq4AHWUxFH0p1lzCIxtGb5WL0zIR8u8dkPHmUVhTbFRdohPQ4-BzPrS2KA5t_ltqsLW9vo=w798-h598-no)

I reamed it under to make sure it was good and clean.  I'll have to touch it up to match the shaft later, so I thought reaming under was the best plan for now.  I probably could have left it as is, but my screw drill was a #1 and a little small for fitting the shaft.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iylQ_6esYHt7AM8_NCYW09gc9rnGbq21_Xj6mJGgi1TfwJSl8LcM5R23e7Zo93xtVQiQ3bs6gH6it-mPqevDPXZ3cuZUr1sS9XDSpyVB9M2kYTdI0kMO1c49MZ8bKrUUYhtZqb8Ljc1NBZ4U5NAPH9S_QTc8px5NAZVA3cWf_FJF838rKWTm5RkXIbFvE0nFkr_gHI1kU0WISJN5Acxbc3GqQKoQ4oqMZW9xCVWvLjmWYJZje0X70bO8g0aLCNYdBS-nXlvWdcUM2VdJTL8hsAIF0dSIT5WMxupCZfRpfmZHAeeOQosChZNZ4es4dP1BtRYBBLIXnWUghntLI-2XNWHVYhcH0-xn8jmlnd7hs68wCBrdVWzHAhik9dJPQrCDMXa6Kuc8lEFV3iVJQfSrfVz0kIRFW6zd4dpWzNb2bkJkNAVTBYG3qlv9x2fpOyiBrzKJNzqxcQvQqASO-0f2fVhISnZacKQ7bLEkHV09EgkZ6awlzNlP1K9d8z33jZbix9hnJ4hC3CSjrNZ0mxoB21GY0YT9nm_av0Fs9I6_Zcp3sVuwKSN_kCKS_CPaQ8g4PoGgovUSH4tXPJxofyc6Bwd-Tnza2YwwICt3PU6bjpH1dQIX0oo4bfXNMMialqLxGer0yNUrZUQGPpgX_KSPEnPq4A13Z3W44aaBnBPDK94=w798-h598-no)

I drilled and reamed the outboard bearing the same way.  I kept Y locked so they'd be at identical heights.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m_EsZc8pnxHqvHruStOdaJiRh5sadepyn3SZMKIbw7XGQ60p8_5Nq6kRaeJw9aspzE1h3Z4XUfsoBMZUlKaXbCPIIcXFAs8EeWnEVW5Q37mlhRcleRI0bioP4yCCJtmgqba0rDSk_tKXf11VCaRPh0uowA2LQINpIQzAhjj2VYYdJ9A_oLgJFdUgPoSa_afzGW6rm0NppsuFQt5GLIyiewMSoabTqD6UiKdqUenbgDc3FbIT_tMWfHkvRMZcwDCPAmnk7otLhD2EEF5niYIjYIAtpDy-9yLnowgrpXcsupxcseOeRTFITxOufQPJ73WdI2wCSDV8v9ij6iTOlZE-u84VYQDugC_UFHeqFVQ-HUoVeSbJZHhKmKjOWy4V4tpN1KpTwKWuGulopZHVhTLScg3I4XxXkWfXloiPauKRKzsDkYy99HHykkqc28O7bjlQRKut9qlIHoPdv-YLLUKjAJXRZ6x4WtGOp7GSuFiZ2YJdj-KJBGErGIAIajIE21kstvGyJGVDA-MIFz6vrNZsN9byCgf1Y4D3d2SV001Jp9xyJirkQtPvBLwb6IupO1sGQrFuH7BPdOVXmxzLMZjemQRsBkUh7r88jUPpq0iHWUPv-bmuVDDiUGRpAbpm4dMsrSfXNoqVV_o2ErZ5bpJetGUqM8CPjU9kpksRU3JEJ-M=w798-h598-no)

And here's the family shot.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F-uWQi-uZm5jh3Ry5EixiCoQ1OmB0BV_FFd7S0WJyWD6YbHRprrotgImLrWH7EPGQ46dlX2_gX5a-qSSOVtnolppldJc8YZXTMhWCcy7sL_NZNGoXruifeY_gxGlC-3yvPukVHn9VohmBim5iksoU7fzacehHwWwQNJ1lx4_GaIiIUhZ0p4ZAQ1P_RKlK-ZogDgkjD3MQ59cI7q0gfOA5OE0rqrMLo5VymeqSPitB__I9ht2Ewp2XQGXNid1f9VEgp97ha1bRY3cdj3vEMHrKCHsZEYrC_ngUsdj5nD-vDW2rw7sPtY0YhA9GSC10wEkE54dYZ_UUk4VviysZrLSX2KQ92TGeDqMXK098umc-fAW0jgVBbE6iuqq3zJa08ajc06cPIglYOYTxXR8mI2v6eqRdOFcKV53a2RRcrVEAtEFUD97FUzJlyeS8JrMLkZPELVA5gbPCD4kyfu3E48SqQsPEGt3PKQNDfMxaVyFt-M8in4C4xNUp9pb-IAlVlpFGJBE7j9EaM6qRU4YjKiKafx0YZg8yiVKtQnzZL0op0B7eWee6o-34g57p_It_Y3mjOdJxCZOVDe43e7oT_ERw-tcXclj7Mv793j_zgHBbjPwCw65_QMpwHFaoM7Nh_blBZplgg7q1e9FeygvPn686qlGt7h_6LFo5vQ4sgrNjb4=w798-h598-no)

Next is the base plate which I've already started.  I'll finish that up and then can screw these parts down so they won't get lost.

Thanks for looking!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: sco on February 05, 2017, 11:49:50 AM
It's coming along really nicely Todd.

Simon.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Kim on February 05, 2017, 03:22:10 PM
Yes, you're making a lot of progress, and its looking great!
Kim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on February 05, 2017, 07:42:24 PM
The Mandrel's Last Stand Setup

In this installment I make the base and mount the engine bits to it.

I had one last job for the trusty mandrel I've been using for the crosshead trunk.  Here the mandrel is secured (as you will see in later photos) and I'm drilling to use it as a setup guide.  The idea is that this hole is perpendicular and can guide the shaft for placing the outboard bearing on the base.  This should be clear by the end of this post (I hope) and the idea comes directly from the Jesse Livingston article.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n2sM37opkuMCbS5zcCeGI7_qe2hqg49VlAIaYxw7aujjbAt-z9nEKGmGwr435XJlGRDO-EG14zmJrl5BAfz0iM7564skch4wIyFsqp89oWJSp43FmzWUb3MqjgVMM96THus65bcWxU6bZ88CpAFBkAS1cKnxp-UKUtWNF7dGIaRYXUhcyLPEkCxKSYKkIyY-hmdmFjpTm_r164i-pz6dX5TQCinGQ40XC5XWSYM7hTf-Fd5sMdGZu-zpk_An4zSbCql8arlUwZK_B-s4faksZ8D0DvLkBzO6TpGiHN4aT9G9_kgbdaRhks_b34-fnEZ6A8ikaQV-AhLYiJNAQqnPnSRD262Q1QIBrKCINxdx4gExFTupoefhqadDDDxBPZHRrdWfLR44xGOBZUdz5gZsP7Bl4qAVbqRpUSR_JCqaeOILaalOOXIE4JtJh2pNsATO5K6706Y4AKtg-zDmw-7gOkRvSHpN8wgJ3Lh-z9SMEd2XiHgT73sZnYbZPOHqOHKnZVECKOmLFKXW5SAALCknZAHvPY9W5_mkfnH-OWSKMfTAJ9j_NU54xfJdhca3jsFsWzH5vQBzMPvaSfm7JywTlPSVN1D-7YKt2uXhXv7vJq04gBiZdkDw_IFi7d5EReZHe7DpPsCayaTEA2MmU7mMXVU5vPajor_m6Icy_4ZaGaM=w798-h598-no)

For the base, I squared up 1/4" aluminum to 7.5" x 4.25" and then machined out a flywheel opening in the "floor" as called out by the plan.  Before doing this, I double checked the cutout will work with the flywheel I already made.   And it does.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kJ707XARZs2qKV5ETJhurj135h6oI_aEmbTaWrrjZplrsK9pIUUmWhseErqocIDYcFzFXJeG2ut5ApMp4ZOXHhRNRuIpH8KXqYFHyZwhfAQTvEjdzQGDNCHzd4JNkYPA0Tg7WnpzjLQ92m5qTmyNoRSHHzK1u_cLHQDUlyXUUOXWtWUb1xQB016hY7a1WKsDqnfQj54ucWilhoy6oBjJ0t2RJlQHkIpqAl67otWnKUNCXUyTKrW8sXXlzpyJttpXLkMwlApy2YqkwdfSu1rBnNql3t0wY2zW8qtPVrscwvC1h4-5xLD_qOCBuaOQJUDubVgAN1tsl6KMRIXPkR54WToPxi4Ox19t3KP6pWGb3fH2B8_rw2kaB7Ko2E7LY_tfpjUMQXqqwdHhCYwkGLNpZXFOfv2SVGVMhJAH9z1zDRjPBvBJsvmveNbmKuGw1goiYdUq-UEROW7mUoIe8GmKH-UwgEPFHC_jAnWwW7Ec5QfAcaVGcIjbA4klAfcBbhrTmOuLlmUNa1FvuwL6cUzQ_N3WbFVh2iqKOvR0LoJMTYfTjp26IfjorIH_rl7IHjYtmRx6F8jjoHZm4F5qx2REL4z8DXzGahnmpksxaOZCIycFKK1B0e5W6sdIbIEiW3FKaoa6v6IcHgRzxtR8wquapnLS6WuFS95wui4zs2Ihai0=w798-h598-no)

Before locating the engine on the plate, I decided to flip the base over and drill and tap six blind holes so the engine can be secured to a larger base.  I made these 10-32 as I've done on other engines I have built.  I've found it a bit nerve-racking that I'll drill all the way through, but this time I set the depth stop by touching the drill bit to the thickness of my ruler and I drilled them all before going on to tapping.  It worked much better than trying to measure depth on each one.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zI4nXs6hEhInd_8H8fbe_ROA-K95w8bPHvzMWl-eyvhsGk3XPdsOlK3jfAZnIhuJbm8PDX2R9cMZ9BSc0kqPkBZ22pEXuOwSpB3Zm9rmYZFB_h5tVKIszi0k791FKizEf867kfN322SnbMtAnZHLC9C_3R6iInWqc-98l5TDoBNBsE1RV0X2eejEP7JZuaQVMxXPDndLoEN-LIDfi_3hL6DJVPWjaFSgZo59Liy4C0xRBQdpdlTbv97YhMt0IEH8nYqRlMK_9gfsZuKHkZioxsNZeI4qCsFhjxuCLBFdXAm4VSo6hPZs5Jlu02EeLBLFGT1BDixlwz3TVJQckdpscar2880fMjey1nDaTPy2oNloGXEs1ifQaue7tXS9IIT5_bilJkwkCBYyJT6jUn-VMIxBXX_ozbNvTf5eKXnLkS3AGQKSgri4TmlPSshrcEyxeLPYr0a2-593MovT9KFvNxYOvPVGofgAVa0p-ZDh7fFLVDq4H3S_i6AwaNZ1_UAQpajGy7kVfW4fpuQEP5kVSqzurhpgRTOHdBlvppQ_-CojIXsmaRacEP77lz2hg8o9-f20PYJXHjLDFslC-YcNkS8oMeIriF3eTevoOSBN5T0lIFYmZoF7H9LQWV_QPsdD8GwwNRSxW5nv32GDxTEo-1Sd7EyRKGAvXexFtjAHAiw=w798-h598-no)

I penciled some lines to help me line things up a little.  A temporary shaft and some parallels will get things straight, but I did want it to land reasonably centered on the opening for the flywheel.  The article gives measurements for one of the screws on the crosshead trunk, and this was close but as I thought I was already off by 1/16th inch.  Of course that would have been ok, but may as well align a little better, and these pencil marks helped with that.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7nUBk9L0n15zK1TVVX2Bogqc0pTbpBqSOGRHPaxVkquKj4FBCMoYoC-94E_YT0NOYStBgzVe6nLmlxeppDHGl-CH7RhpsNcQwdDZwqzBFawDSZek6I9DTOjhZG_aZa5oTUeuWoUZE5CabSMHr_X4QgyP3V6ZeJ_PImqY4bA6GO1Y0yLnEIYLcdvD5ffzkGVk2Bc3Y_eidU5JicYCY0STAzf8Dfw75Is16XcJIGfSAsVqqRaoyyVrSv1m0rY8diwlbQrkd8-r76qj34YMQcrEu9hdm9XbdlCJ2lVQSrFKpYBVC9-BhCaKpf4RXvJYNBLLPU1rDU6TlxgFdZ9LtreqHLS8eCprb-TScDvxxvUfDlTSmYDi3CSBg2DlFLoVYXTJRJyF-AoMW6orxCJ5CkfeIw9fnVestbLZ5LBk1mEW6CRp6aWWbyv7tEb0d_lc4xtseWjDnCsGR-banT8PlWy3T2jLmnx3gfoULAhWcJgomMpffSj5xyCLX-ZtuW1lOFLrXDyBV8cV1_V1sVXCwN79VZLoAfyfFC8PpYrAoJ8VGbWVJxFhBr5-4R5e2j-T0FmkFQSgWcQ9L-VU4C2xiUX2LjZW-7dn5LWv356ZQAQKCkGidhBZiqulkemAmm0wfJpB2l5DhqXeGROWMD36ye_4bXMYDqj6jAEPC2oLAWB0qwI=w798-h598-no)

Here's roughly what I'm doing to line it up.  The parallels along the long edge place the works 1/8 inch from the edge, and my pencil lines effectively set the position front-to-back.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9RHt3bYwkJ9o2SgqpMHcWyUKD1m2PLgjrmglhhgk02-7q8pAe-AKtaqVUBblNlW2ydc0qycOUKdxK00xWEGb7qkkMVj5b45XANWy7dfcUH78txwzsliCoJUGedYJSjI9wx1LND58HI1hWiy8h8Qmppha4fVGdgnBBvudBD5NWM91dWCDiSbCRAVQnfDnYxbf2rZoDlShqoABuvRcOn5LvyoD3AgvAWNBEaEWRz5BQkXfSL3ACmtR84y21GuKuLsskfaOi2ImJtCGllOR84RqCtMq2Yhtmex99Ij10ysqKg_I8-9qpMYMdfFwJM-g5_5IhYJtaMD7G8Ubo0ZfHMkcDxGYRo0nBdnCKuKdliV9hgGvsLsd0Lvg8HhJCNAGBkIfs6S_GqvH7AlOOurvRnd0qF5_tQW2mqPTj1xMMFuYnlUcLJ5FJRwNsCx6-uHisXE_rugXTIszlCCyev5QAredjaxiCWlS9wocWY8In7q3ZhJ8WCNFxr0BO5AqlIxkAHtD6GbLcqboSmgB_lk9ENKJ3NwHGx1PEcMnwbJoWYrfqBqXr81o_u3FlIOC6C6GxTs1HveBtbJWMOIHblRt_cjWrKNXbZqT-rIW7q6mKLnbhV9oeKxeVwC5O22mqJCau-jtE9b9kZ9Y7hdYMRFpvbhbH8S-i3ABzfS21PfzWT6uTTQ=w798-h598-no)

Then it was just a matter of moving to the mill to drill/tap my way around.  Now everything is locked down, and the shaft is lined up.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AG-Ke7ImkI4x_pejGGNp_X2Jq3YZIxL6EYPiyW0vcY21Mn5Jg8qCO9fea5zLJn6KI9oaXNiyBbS4lAD5VybwioEl6JEmHTTREpF-Oourkt7na-xsgovR2XKgX2VxOEFUfA_MhvzE1p3XUxeDbrbKID25GBoSa6CRvD1bLVLQ-BmicU85NVZ50yt5nlXk3JizZOxfOjLZM0yQTuy7Q0ASltA4o_46Ij4Y4qQW_cwYjd3098jV7OxY8AwqjFyPEY7MrfVu_dlUw74wVFYhF8wHh6JS9ApKLJlrJ6iygPSYnriW-8gsOKfwlLuthyP3MV5uRVto8bC6J_hSssIDnIeOpilezyY6oeGMr7zm5h_chO_3XCIG06u7kORQ6UUyJZkNJcT4kXyAWu6krOQSoeCy3ZGdlAgqss1IlGl11YlU7pylxRL7gziH6IuAFDBVdZWxs5k2WjqElDGhMxtu0mCzku13QJFFBrjSdspBpBtV2J4JviDl6AjVbXKQJszUgTsHat9RBn7KQ7EgrWXcmdvUvrlgFCL8M-7nIoVEGUuENXKKMpesg-SwXSujnEBxhHkJRwrYFArSC8zj3Jg6JzxTIWa1hwoJAC-zbgTMkOrto_roXedVGo8U99apf3tkowPCufxbrx69eC8i_3Hif5ro5QponPixDgW7t4nTwbvAIu0=w798-h598-no)

The mandrel just went into my metal bits drawer for another day's work.  It served the project well.  Here's the current family shot.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wLBuxr8VRAxFXKJdn-T1TgZx2OFn-VyQ7VJ-INA1qYxK_1y9Og4H_oUbOnpqUXEM_rSWNNGCKMOWna2EmNfpjPZyNk-UBvAUCeZ2S1ZbL_xUAT0oMnxwxzATYBTg2mdWN2SjslgRdpKaxWF2Jmo8djG7YDZioJHepWPvzXfLurRZaT4BmQjHkNkBdhy4q0_utAeDAQ_T-f2v3vMpHPKODEimcKMxbMhA0bzDJL5HEp0MhOzJJDhdj0DAF7pYKMEwpHKcgLLfP9eymP_d49HfdrbhvyrtRAYZQoapVqxfeCw7gnRc7_B2hzCsF8zN0iXQuEzUmRzZLSIRcUbRk2D_10lZexFv1zleDz2m79rf9SYZLkDOzxSPCnPWDz4aKUM7Ec9nlRsxhw1WA8MTLQZ_m8w81f5Dcc1Be6eyhrP2hxZ4kNSVuJRVuuY8TdUe4kLeSy85oyPpB3riU6uGpJsAUovw74lgcveL6olRQAwPO32wZgF3omrCdG8nMtDST0_Dty559yM_3u2WPivolKm8dP7YKH8GOiwCvnXAH8vcLftidnqFeMVlZDg9eJSnQnrAYwfJu8auJNXT6qdUQOFiUFTcwFrw8QF6ZEkFLiVcfZ4deab2PSG-T_fI0gE70G0jThmS0e6eXbJ5jAjShpzLHw9DiiCry20BepMZCqrrOzU=w798-h598-no)

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on February 05, 2017, 09:11:41 PM
That's looking good Todd!!!

Dave
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: 90LX_Notch on February 05, 2017, 09:37:47 PM
I don't know how I've missed this thread; but, some really nice work Todd.

-Bob
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on March 05, 2017, 05:42:48 PM
The Cylinder

I know it's been ages since I've checked in, but I have indeed been plugging away at this engine when I have a little free time.  I managed to finish the cylinder, which for my previous engines is where I always started.  I really enjoyed working with brass for some of the cross slide parts, so I pulled out the wallet and ponied up some cash so I could machine the cylinder from brass as well.   In hindsight, I think it was well worth the investment.

I dialed in a 1.5 inch long piece of 1.5 diameter brass (turned down from 1.625) and drilled/reamed a 0.375 inch hole down the middle

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E7dfBX3zMA0sZ0Z2HgCS8qSbQBsXk-SyTs85CqMiIMrRpwHbBfychT20jwGlLtqHoewnp01iM2A3a3C2dGAEQdlSdsZd-_-EoQmHiy8xep6tW_U-2t7wkrCPdZkFTj_d1hvCRBnJJt55Ygzv445paW77yv-df0quhsvJdXP96lwsXtry1UVJ4hBKt0Yujx0yx_Wg7zsFlqMIr76Ubvvz_usi0GhjriuA5yYzljK6eh91uDutNQVPEAOUCgZTkbmjMUGqBn-ETHgLHbWbHAe2HNlUAxQAiRIVPdvpVm38XHZx5-6MX_JpJxqvQTpfmzXRSy70O801ES-f9jAqlItKWFbQ2bgN8XYMq5XYXwapVxHST7umDC_dC4FuedC-fN10AaIoFehJtRdYz5x1vjA8jrN_T0sTXE_RXNI4Kwb44JsrLx6S7mQgiY88nczyyT-RS1H5k_ibBqcShxg_rsWUNI1yZlJyahpnYTW7RXqramKA4nIj6sIop0zY2DPQhdU1fARdspPoPxUO87QHb344HpQb7bulkK2MkaIUj9dmkBnIg0NwyI4QHS96wWXb3vBAYRL91f_l2Fg-8bv04Y33rYgTobdM-kPjxJmCcVVopjd1HjP5kh7kDvOzVqU3GnWicgZUFkhxTWoEYYQ_dzRFPF9OhppPJ1WLjhCLsdycIXk=w775-h581-no)

Rather than boring out the cylinder right away, I thought it might be easier to work on the rotary table if I made it match one of the centering plugs I have.  I had to make a little spacer disk to pull the cylinder away from the RT table.  Here I have the RT in its vertical setup so I can create steam passages.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zCOBnsEE8O0gbsqgBJlcTFJ_2LSgBanlt3n3hxMV4p3uAT9kpSojPrniB8Ipem7Ziv7a99myKpA0iq4PoxMkgtPsj3dS_oxGklpyABtTM_1pABZnpVruWn-pmY-oYPf-extxuTXQOwYdvyEVaIeQsgikqzJiJK65hXYzXgyUnNOV5k_-OAWathC-fpDlhks_enNMmEtzLkmy6VBl77A7oBgFJ2b57r02qEs4NxVJpaK2dgN2DLZAJjxm08_7O1AABPy-WGxANBKrIry2s2c9LGZEGX2XbTi1VhHGqTdbScMH-iB4hJgNX7YLUVL93ltkXjbmWxLyztxOppF_jAg4Tn1zIG0GmcEWJaqDEPlarkdV1A4LgXHw7m-4IlDCJ05kfsJfyF8hWxNyeWlECHCDdaLjWmzKvZCCA7sYC7gyH9FfQ2KR3rpmw-IudyttKpv5pzdNc3_71_r_L_mebnccE2TpzYWBgegTV-kAprTVuGfC2E70rKhTV0op-fuUAXj4mfmwMUc_NBMSKBzynVuctpfaQVvh4uyuZcebeyW5hewucJ1xxfohvEzguwSspzx5wfAQDMera4tiBw9Kimh9-JqY4Oe1LChuAint8rezU_pILA5xHVYQ1Y--rkHDUGPp-PVxSmpY_O1xAaDFZEinSyeVTMCRDc2FLAd9xHpQM44=w767-h575-no)

This is the first time I've used my RT this way, and I learned real quick that a 6 inch RT is huge for my mill.  The little spacer helped, but for these cuts the mill head needs to get down in there.   I found the solution by facing the RT away from me, as you'll see in upcoming photos.  This was a pain for seeing what I was doing, but it did work.

I did a little measuring and marking on the bench, and then dialed it in on the mill as you can see here.  I was triple checking things so I wouldn't waste a nice hunk of brass.   Here you can maybe guess I'll be making three cuts.   The outer lines represent the steam inlet passages, and the middle line is the exhaust passage which wraps down the side of the cylinder.  The cylinder isn't yet finished to length so you can see a mark near the RT reminding me to finish it to length somewhere along the way.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sLmqpQ20-OvF3b8eOEcDmCMXk30MeMEJ5G7mJeUUwwXghV6mhPn2ZoGOqEXFidPZZdvmuHv3eD3xcmjZAG_RBYgmLDNjw0wpQ4H4m7VJreMUqxul7Tl5JDUNVBTF_J6Ex1DWguKrm1HttL_rXRcEPRKZScqyg6vCK4mjK-A0jRBClsxTai6fi2cnB0eRTjAETQLeVnVaZhgvk-r6w6C1g4-AtBKLTJfFMQjkL91mfbbhDQXu9KOV2IHUoGy8sv1zcuZ5q7eXyCTshPfTQAJGZ1rkImTPdGzRI8YtXopysK3a3U_UWywLr67cxZDQoQKPHb2h8JO0hMJL86G0kyI6w6QjLz9MR0RpMmObj0Ki0a0mXE8YktVy9LPFmhcsgjWUc8YVPRluA8kRXBLHQ83SfyGeH9KragGDD2Pxi8k7USuXL2GObHzXs2wmR_vP68IHBkIZa5flhVvA4qiMvZ3zdKPViw1soMq9Jhdm9oo-tfDACplDZSH6haM46zJHfnJTcs6l2Krq-Lz3e812d1zkeCwtsaaV2McFqlueLAMy8wqzRU0m6FYK96B0EhQ1Ewi-oEOmXtEAMzYcabCiso5W96aDt4jSBDo8YlTpPZmRVUxOWi9Uh7_a-LUk9bK66RfNBkxL3t2K37iC5yPZLQ3Ur7eKkuq2BW5agaB4iH3JZ1w=w767-h575-no)

Here's my first cut which I did in a few passes with a 1/8 inch end mill.  This is the exhaust passage that goes from 30 degrees on the back side to 75 degrees down onto the front side of the cylinder (relative to the top scribed line).  The left side of the cylinder in this photo is the back of the cylinder.  The rocking valve assembly will sit on top, and an exhaust port piece will be attached on the side over this passage.  The parts will be soldered.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UcmPv8lKKXwgHVrNNsJcMuCC8bjhMgfquDJ030YKYX6sW5bwGJet55ibGn1iC7t9uwr2lLFNE53-A6aRkP5Fj8Eqw1DYySDdszIWEokF1jlmwG5OqjBqGbahcBNwQ8OOQVEBw_fo0Vh3S4ihcnPRSq5T8ioMjOoASiwMoojxEEL0Y1OK3RB1lJb5-6EQCOetUTdet7mfOLW4LCbYfHCHiwoM1xZMds1y0qHzgE5ifkEowJhHQR2Cr0EJfmHWjBVEl-LpwW8Z7TVHiaVisWNXp-bjyRb5QFvGCx65FSWIXB4SJr_eMz5d_rULq5scyYXIGpK4oM-qKoctZwJpSXGYOihs85T_C2cEorq545OSYzT0DJXQAH4cwB4Ti18Yjy0Lx3ZD7WKOTvhhBAaFEhr1zw_5Y-hUJDso9fP39_298B56dLjX_84vQcvezk-p5M8UUBH-nJW6LRWQE-UG4AodSgbMiDcMSvZ2k3evDdcu2xqfm-qdr_6raoStVQfzG5MBS09Rlb04ks7cwyjFsO1SIj6fzRsPD5qmwjqxKfF7lo8UszP5xvS4hra-_TrJkDo6LInZLJ_4oEqiA6f-dOG8de8edlGqm6aqAdsk5GE69ViHyDrtbnTlNWOYvVJCwuRd7Ja6KQQcRbtsQcQtL5-1Oz20VOC_D7HocbPbIJAQQTQ=w767-h575-no)

Perhaps this orientation on the other side of the RT makes more sense.  The front side of the cylinder is toward the RT.   You can see the exhaust passage is done, and I've just finished running through the back steam inlet passage.  I took all these cuts in a few passes.  Note that while the exhaust passage was cut via rotation of the RT, these steam inlet passages are cut straight across.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nc8GzPJOkm8GROPlbzeA-v8hq8c7OPX0Yn-6X6DUcbl8piIfso0TtIW0sOdLTAvxBRCfp8nBDARAUzvxQUYXj4JGFdDocE_SJyNU6iO02AB8P4-dA5ZpXy-Z4upohx-oymtvPOdSIJ1srGs7sSkf9KwLcjGND7bBDnhASH7MPrtN45FTrvRQ7t3TUhSc3Fd-Gi74PZ9xoDK9QW8UckMH75F_kjZZc_kQXLR_5V4RUX5WXEOgax_qQuOOu9xwJHjxAmKl4fqurJa_wToiXjEISMR0YMgoSVNMP1Ppa2BkCrltPL_D5bfX9SNEQ1QT06R9T0w1WPckSow0kAn5zYizMs9IkuO3hc2vBIKc9lyX07sajdH-LC_hxAorrfoVmxutEdxwf9NXg8OYEsxEd1OlKMWOyqGvy_14ansdI_c0GAarVVun_75I_OdlT-rZ07TAmD3KtYRDJvfCAmaiVwqxMCtpOCN68Wx4rg8nNJYhYZlYkkadhq6CCrtAH6Y5ZdD_XBWwpnnamhGdfnMT6w6IyJCMstj9KX6mYyzC9EPxliWDkA652bGqzIFOifrG-ijAOVtWOSE7zM9whfYgIA-AEL_MEGdxFmbZK6o7rN_ZWtAr3vffZDyKkg4Q-J02eszGVrktLtaIx-65iALnVHdO1-Fa3COi-fzNWLPIPnkTgvw=w767-h575-no)

And there's the front inlet passage in the next photo...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OIWSfQU0W_DIkY5grGJK6y7fTcUwEcgwsl1GatdVUJbEMfDoiJ9YQE-EjW0BL0D6A0aXuZ2B70syS2iS_uj74Q4IqQ0vI_Up0WhDC9U8NFBKhBcq8gRjZ1XuAtiYn3Uov6B2AJBIflz9kYLHrpZ2U8ukALIl3lISx-0hfQQpOYZNu-lP4PAb0KQwD8Qsi5BnLvkSjqRw_HqmS4IhZlcAAKJnZe3n7_aJbmAjDUD1QneAajFEj5I6b4w8NTAlMTanA8iVtDL0PyF3kXynO0Sapcii67t6Mz2dwUSHlkYnQynKYh_CQpJzFbTOPnQzuoJbZfoIey45dXVbyM_9Nhb_7BNcRj90UivfnsVNw6hrwsMmRh1Y8b50bMGKL4n9_7b0ICkh1l6y4tSM-LIHRJjID9Tc_dcYNW3jMpD7t1UAHIWd-HRXn9vUiTXZiiTV2hUybL8k19LsMmnaMlzGGyaBfNnWuhf1zs2xzeJg8WmzkfuxAAgzcohs5OmcKIXzwDZKpJ-UC5AB2qXcJxZMnFAUTfpYPktpAMuRz6_ZjykBIgrkR3LJx9Z_OaJU-XcxXat3idmZOYgZV3gs_ioyXkePcOz2NjSngclMFFgUDY8PFvvm_kAscNIdlqDPKbiK_kuzcUJlinl35H1-Q-0wlxVO-UOSuKHPvuT6h9OSmWYEqaA=w767-h575-no)

Now the RT is switched to horizontal and I drilled/tapped the five mounting holes on the back side of the cylinder.  The print called these out as #4-40 threads, but I realized that the hole size specified for the cross slide mount was for #3.  Rather than drill the cross slide mount holes bigger, I made these mounting holes #3-48.  I'm thinking the smaller bolts will make the engine look bigger :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ztybkJySILgt4AUqitdxlz906uNcIdN604z_PfjcXdX5V7ZwUaswHTonRA2PKq8y6ut6_VvFEub94sZbqSseAMVJDnQ2goKs6LkcVE9cbiwM6eqNVK6KruV1ej407gf-G8HqusPqRjVpMxmCQUWyh4qMU5tFhMNSoXrBPAKAhitVx4R9SnihAIzZ0i-TJ3KhIz2lLUdIaqjytxthtmFfyjrKAHu6JoXpBGiIk3Q9AuBYDYL13LHl8Lk_GjXiFSlD4gG50yYsbdyb5o2zfcSAnLHomecJuILWZgb_xpIU1FS5_4osT4trUgMp_EdUz4HZ_GJLCsCJ_aXxOgZMqmf31xOI5r_xgcnnI9sN5oZ1iKo6ml1IW2XegtguuEQT9KHuaTuhIMDidf41m__KCgHz3aGGxPIS8GSPuwoLVAcdUufzPp7wXRCVGSaZERRke76V7DRCaz-9r43jCqr0SXCudZ4VmAZ7LlrIsm0C51t8kzp_4PBxFDeME9_Vq_KnvFAoK3fyL3KofJ7UNYfA5hvONM4Cbxmen_ahPv0_2ZqThL5b8M5E1ZvTFdTd_G8Zo4lOIrUUPdDi2y2v-rjqDPdzNhUP3WlgPJInexTtzlYSO-dDvhz5ktR87Ja1kUxVffpQLw7r-R7hVT14h-GagJ3wJ5fJnPg9TQXBNF2WYOdHW_U=w767-h575-no)

Next I drilled steam inlet passages that extended down to the first steam inlet passage I machined a while back.  These are along the top edge of the cylinder which is at the left.  Two pairs of holes form the passages, and dang they are close to the edge!  The hole between these two pairs of passages is the top threaded mounting hole from the previous picture.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5sLcpantFWTbc8z6F6a8WWb5jcOgpvX3x5VfoNcy9XUqL-fGba2-bYLeY5GeLDxhzB0oqpy-Xv86ctEIklhc6mdS6cy8KAkXaCyWWOPf3bG6nWIuudkCkEa_DdHZabBpoP-5shSiK_-ac-Df1b0p0Nun3SSokO6COELCxVQMP87pnrcrqHwe1lW16zxnyibLgFT8YHfQUnV5IOK7TOFJzaEWxjQRyS3Yd3bUp5rfpTViAk_U7vs_B1r7PSOJ6Ts_2bqOeLxiL4OIsHmBF1TaXXE72yun-MpZvKky6kWnc4to4Z_lQSKTHPl8OeIJh03ndSzEsEACwq2I2vCvC6ZXId-KgRvzJg8P9B7FqKIO5PzUE4yq2vyKXRJKuLfXmNr6h-RQc2xfkbLc0PmbJHnCKQaJqNjLQzARqf3boNEWxa-I9RZeK5ebk9kwD-MJLk4mGXSp5Ff3ZbcDtvukhSewFLXIw8E3UecBIucuZVc4-R-Tg0jCJuDi2k_RWlkcyb78XpzrbzsbtIA8HAifuHY2rQBPDT7oYixxnjhhUme8HQ7YKfyZrvMDK718PsRAwsV8gUDrjEV6oDTuCOxpSS1Va3I1N4phkvoYIGx6Yt69p8KXFj2TY06a2QiPJIf8NI1A_pC3G_waJxKmtoCkIZNsD-e7cQD-NHcVdmkraa2z-vQ=w767-h575-no)

Next was the job of machining out passages into the cylinder bore.  Of course I haven't yet bored the cylinder, so these just extended "enough" toward the center.  I went 0.200 which was an easy four cranks of the dials (I don't have DROs).  After this photo, I machined out the second pocket identical to the first.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UxOpk8FSCPI9VA3ecZdfrNRXC_5U2i6asN3H5Dr2cWsMnW6XaI_9OS8xiqVv1ciIZIZNrkZaOFQeyooYTM08QWwrpb5ESH2NdIR9H38M5OtepSdf33FacST-Wca5YSeMbEQ1npX_1dRLTwkHnR_aRyZAB4OT8CKezF8CDoMjsQ6jzerH-psqiYfVtenlqizom_V8Wn8Q7y17KZfcQDfdSVWq34ZcIET1oJdQg_HdAfM2Dldb3aXWgRLy9bIdxFnUXZHaoGzNeTT7KFJFvJcKiHaFdTF-1ANFIgghM2_U33L7o-aeYwbXdxxMAhN_6EHId4AKyJv7UPfTs0v1XenwQRcVfoCOk_cFg7XcFjyDGzkLUyRWbXK9_ilPCVVYTvWvBc4-FDQMaeDi_8o5DrEVRjhrHrsAd8coAHuOrJPA8QgQ-UZ3x7s9ek-K9I8jBsjfqlLuX6_vtA8KxVEcxy3oHZ8rhiz2LguAAkCM4swO-yn5d4SsZAhMbBaGKwieaCiXVoY-kd6VMLVUo8PtWB38HfbCzdNM1ThAeTjjBNtVrFC0ZOxa74vCw3gORlEYWQxnu5Z4qj5XBtW3c4-s3pMmR0LvACZ1W5a81h6cMvhpoIyiPLbjIexidJIe9Orv44Ph-EsxH5IOq3Z0TajVRt1-3dc9PTRJZ2irWCw_wTEG6Yw=w767-h575-no)

Then I actually remembered to machine the cylinder to length before drilling/threading the six bolt hole circle on the front side of the cylinder.   I made these #3-48 threads to match the other side.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/razv-ptdNLlolUdW-Ga8q2gjAl-WPPENgx3CrySNEE3jwFI41CLeTW8vSbsQ0sHspGTEH8xRW9WpCMXw2MA4meEqcl_2Hi3Bx0iVHllY-KfRK09V8wilWQP-bOn4nE-0CP9-T7JgGCOQNZD4sgeUwiSrTr6W018cbpDYbpsSNTz7QUN3xCxLJkx_kImFxxyUg8SM3MMdVwmchA5MP3atBIj4rRISdz52CYbO-GxKdrc1d-Sc1IORNSkkMQRtgejTBdz05R03EYPd_idk9TsABrUO4a-h1_ztLLy9SqMtTh6uP1WCADS0QwGoxVfiFJ7txM5LAtjSmHGQU5WwrgCEn5u6sZlznm-wbmX6d5yUl553yc_UZzBZvu2xRazdKJqMc38YYePnpuW0reT1aoEJGzaUgztmQ-XLPaeloslKZr1kRwmUCUPSflNDbSvz6A7KyKzFNXBo6tF2tBQonFKWWtNcZ8fUuRO38OHWu8pzlgFi7Ze9pMNjzGQAnBsNhZZLjuMP80sXynbkJxoR2Y0MhVMIYWPwPTTct9flWAEs-MBiAD3DZ_UrojhYPywRYjDRxD6m0qKBy01_WYDAIUzTu1LBXGHYXJ25wImqxgmelfiYcayy8af7maGyhNjF9L_FLN-Q1JqMs7OTvc__jzOS3agzpqLsx-X4RpB6HQ8GFh4=w767-h575-no)

Then the steam inlet pockets were created on this side in the same manner as the other side.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/28UqJsB1iKr-K_LHMrMNyWDqYu1h-yTEyXusz-YH7pDYz9McN25X-KpfpK-G6j0BFx4gLrxXBNFdHZcglksdxCIewRMJBaKUD3fy3FhHYaJ_8_qhtzSKylCqGOOhRqtIKlivDRmIF2p0lylmELM5q2ec4CZUoYMfAkZE5aTCOeGIrT5NIe--7jgbW6a7HcnGCPX6VHqY7q5ZY9c7URxRp3dv9gh28MXZD8n2B6Wr-aOqagbiiR6UdXNNvqcDoadUVY884UCRZEUd7kzcuEOr84vbjzteOk0-R8uEZDwDPVvRC2czrjaeil_pjBupqSjDgQZlDvqkvGeO21j_wedpV_3uigJlP17pDeo-_-N5WMVgkoeH602dLalUEosUF8ihaEvno6BkzbQSYEeqoyx8VlTZUDLqJEmM7DfmdqYtZJ-Lo5UGFd_70MVHi-hpcqh2qy61JQh74CARGa2u6DpHRJvBMc3aSoyUQOhlfHAz9jfaXyJd7ZWZtgbKtiW971t_tOwgc4jmvnOLbse6gyL9CsfDA7ZHUUYX0IivcE8Of8a1LGM6TEQoXpRGOx2jWABYIkZsP7vezsowIsKLg503T3Nrw5Lu0yKE1T215wCWnElp-YUDeCFzzNqOqGGaN0zgrfP_C9Xlb37Xf4Wv84NZ5tUv4G9loi2wtteYkqaemkk=w767-h575-no)

And finally, back to the lathe where I clocked it into the 4-jaw, drilled, and bored it to a 1 inch bore.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OHChqxmGwqVyFhwe08yeyto_Sz7S-I9SK2hT_7jrDcXNwEEPL6E6ZdMhPz1SARCJ8snfLftqm9uSSHAQEjbV4RSb35VK0LXO10nd9AXHUtvc7qiU6YzwJQsWD88S2jBsR3oOPI4lS3VoE7RkaQz8ha9uks2qT3glJ4o_4BMuXTCiMmsa6utxzjtpslUR4R-6hJR7BcZuWoLTMAGdMY3kvHiYy5LdJ0_Ert3is-GjD-QkU9lyZD0EJ5qxDWugCzAcRXO7jJx1QLtzxC9C1B52kmbh_rLQ5fG6iaoX9pB2Mh-35lEcr5qy_PsV9D7grKl0fwnZB5Kn2GLt2HQlnacmPQM3ywcpgj9iPKwD7BQrTjH21Q4E1YPsq_3FuVJ5II0_WmZhAw6Vab-oAuUCPkkLGs5nzMesIilh1Y-HIbpyZLZeiYrVblQtF5X6St9J-jhpGn4Y3sfs00vUQCQEWXjsc2lCPJrCTKEh9r4E73ypVc1IzKtwppOTxAv3x8LbuU5Vk7SHCBwcS1lcRAeTkkOceUf0UmuBBNWNxGABT5qQeeVlPU489CZype8P3nJhxjR-2Giksd6Bvcq9Fw1OsKSKruKZkLTSVhjHWF-4gdnKp92yLF6tg_i0hxeTV8Nc3BQaBg-5bnJXj7O1BZyqT9X7tW5zJwr0-TXA7YaIcYN18uk=w767-h575-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gl-IqebcyD9hXUN7TOAuHVZFkUb6cNqF1_aSJ2iKYNKTNXcNZJbD27a1tQvCG_8V49Al5cRUTQElchypFSHX14V0hPozSrW4p-7P_JhUoy1AP8SoIEGuPblv5OupTLmoPLGcvzpIY978UqbbIWrOfZRimM_GS3ayZ7HiP78yRMO6joxEbY5HTs5-rLXjmnin0C5ivNf2Rh8HCExs5eYllXFVys3xC8WwBThBr0EsjdxExJ5nJWqjv_2IfpS2Rl2TY-JvTH4TzqW4urWDlFUpVeEfnkK58iZlRfd69i-LOO7SkDo4xRKuEwSm4XQWG85jK0iTmLf1mF1PIm6Lpac1YTPEVptZ-zGf3cQNNHwcDkUdVuyH7X0MIuAEI2RKh3IOwTHbluj15EM2wh5rd1ixKcPVb6lupINFhnN_MNhEMQ-AEvYKAjOMqCxPBytPGQYEyO8FxYfhvzGvVhASt4gQd1ld_um9rFw_f07a4v6G2mXlAFSXyUNYFOLBAT3xTbTzIjPUHWi3cbjc_Onky0_2s1s93JV1itjuuu5mcQboyLtS2xfzB2SE2DyeAZe7zD-rlVxh0Ylna_tfp7Cfdf7flKQmSGDt_-zxXrE3qN-a4sSd87HoAKY7Y1ZlQ27IFpu4-FB3wWRZarIVEkyVGnhei8TvzzAxP0BI_d0vqPHlkw8=w767-h575-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q7cXIcM6pxBEUzO7_1O_TZSYw3iPEKusCuTIkAWpebKh9ztxVBgLMfrY9LmGsElL2sQTvCU6Uf_-4YoVm-Y0oSLP2gRDrA2ZrX6N8vKfQVB-ENzHPN47_uBq6hTe6lNGMvmvWuVqDRWBKgLk0_9ALMPss-yXS6OcHQWZrdDbJ8Iy47r9AxcKfzEnt9cJPkS2547qe70bU5UAJxF0CfcdwQJtsn-fHkhRJe_MK_1DOc39R5RMSpAn0XIRKvaZB-Nc6ZQmY89-2c3qHnru8Y4STe1rlfv8BB-WiqLneFpY1PhkgdiVRRdm1sc8SGomm0W5HsX7JefLAVJGmLMSQhIxXFkzDC3ZJg0dpiXWki1WGhz6C5kdd11itGG_A7eC9ZLNVHM73KrRy2Ofy7NFtJQsAeEcuaQRY-48mQIV3OhWxhZDAkxbMQDLMtUnA7dKB0dVhFwVXLE4yrdnshL8M4AQor6R4hyYrW7_18eI4s7Ype0HxC8LpYEcvbhK_amLBsSdJvPiuKavwQ7SZczkOuj-y81-pm69f0faehRKvUBeANvKpWyc6-XScguzHoF3TYDDVC0kF8pcsew-QnD931qabdMqdaOgO1NbjvyKoEOqBQoVSDjey5i0__qCuNy2qFC-uHbMPFs3aH-cO06HwtPPXPJcghNBtkDNhawaMGWDr7U=w767-h575-no)

And here's my shiny new cylinder!   I love brass.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Epx_lRmMw4xPwJfaPRIY5k0KV6H8CRkHEn8Q2_LVJevXdsKQZtefnKM0Y3X8r_eRmYggTNFHJkLG9XT2ZPuo34FWAljH1DE4X9X270mOJKOp7Q2oRTwBLJ5-iNJJVKrHvglJicOYTSL0L-V3hihAwZj_4mdrPI1_TxMitsEyejnZh72EH0FW6ggtIs9lEoBk8akw8E7061sOdkNsqhwmUMjn6EkQGhXCM9G0EoQP-K-aYTJA12tIEgEbLI_OSBwu8BJE71Ty55fVJYvhUKzX5TyQ_C8LbXtCfiJsNKXDvBfOdcUjWbrdCkSmRqSGlwz1UquNgv1nI4KiwqHSSXvJtX2q4V1DfXy9mvngVKDssUvzhSy8hDk7E9xKLqgPH5xT8nRlGVpwcYea68niawB81b-HGTa3Xf0kZ4JbpvMBCFbTzOhKIqFecfBaKRBTJ5KrvSr8IHYQ-6Otwla6jjJlBrhy71A15bpK4sGHYnAHtgwDnGZ9d58H0xuYyR4yzozUSJm1wDH8yWBrI3MUOdxHX_LC2h0PpYS6nscmc7oQRW9BzBckEseqr9RJ_T40-DaVe7a_LSc3bBHA6FP-kFIbtnpWFcrQcIF97rSg8XMK6XOsZBefJKN1QUmsVRk7NixZ1TJBlqi5vVpXYobXGZwwRzVKWA28ouHCx7GSiur6DAo=w767-h575-no)

And the family shot so far.  It doesn't really assemble quite like this as there are front and back cylinder heads...the back one sneaking between the cylinder and cross head assembly, of course.  But I couldn't resist putting it together with a single bolt like that.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y0i87eMs1bXvdf0PBVAFtUF2SKmD0Na14vQOCUu-ggileCNunPaFOV_8nbJ_2LCLgCJ2dNk_rIXpTQUTVKNhjkuocyjEFDl8g1eJIUEvZ38Fso_HYpupQjnrCOSE1bU9R-Pk_hkmwko_KsHF6oT_hO1JLiXB31gFzBKZIyGTtbHntHLsj-1Jhu_GPxznBQErR1gsnY8FqGOMw3Qyy4L0Go-VZsElPJNiY_CFqRco_uepwZV4GiM24Yf-s-HNOmxVLyHclH5jMCHI72XHSC_2m4lW9eB7nHDyRlRRXFRDveopy_ifpY5ejVKW1adQ3sqhzY9CxK4Gwy8gBNS-5QHr_THwTvq7nlBb_F9pzyRV31RuJ2ohlHu37m-q_svUDslLdwaYnG9z-mhIq2R2u7X92UfCZF4Dsa1o1CqYxInlQCHeoUMUOPVlLHPoVB5BGKq5cqITEyjlxGLXQFUI1pgHRtI6CvoHJSmoZ6JM0dfRYo4Kg5dK8-mRCz8JYOStqHnUEc2JKZjvKhwNa1pYzQVNif5LZDy_lJUITVo-MR86sSf26N8xdjPuzS0SW19FbxHulT3RuYPM-l8ZU99DDeOjNY2oB04BXv7kPLSVHPz9_a5x-A772b6wCVWHHw_VtNYSyibw6EL84dLC419jGQKx3Aj8bO3aTp1PSng5qUex4vc=w767-h575-no)

Perhaps that was too many photos for most of you, but I had to make it look like there was lots to do to make the cylinder :).  And for me, that was a lot of steps!

Next time will probably be the front/rear heads for the cylinder.   Thanks for checking in!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on March 05, 2017, 06:38:41 PM
Interesting setup for the passages, that came out great!
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: gerritv on March 05, 2017, 09:09:10 PM
That was an intricate set of steps. I am sure you pondered the sequence for a while?

Lovely shiny result. I like brass as well, except for the cost. I might take to brass plating for effect to save the wallet :-)

Gerrit
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 06, 2017, 12:00:17 AM
Great looking cylinder! Well done!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jim Nic on July 04, 2017, 04:16:06 PM
This engine was coming along nicely and the build log was very informative. 

Todd, have you finished it or stopped work on the engine or just on the log?  (I appreciate a build log takes a lot of time and effort so could well understand if it's the latter.)

Has anyone else had a stab at it?

 I have the downloaded pages from Jesse Livingston's book and am giving it a serious thinking about for my next project.  My main concern is that I like to work in metric dimensions and the original has all sorts of imperial measurements (fractions and decimal inches on the same drawing and number drills for instance), but not insurmountable.

Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on July 04, 2017, 04:23:28 PM
I was thinking teh same the other day, hope this is progressing unseen.

I have got quite a bit of this drawn out in metric though I have deviated from the Livingstone design and gone more towards the Filber and Stowell rocking valve saw mill engines.

I do know that Ramon has not been in the workshop so doubt his one has progressed
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jim Nic on July 04, 2017, 04:48:01 PM
I'd be very interested in your drawings if you get round to completing them Jason.  I'm keen on the rocker valve set up rather than Jesse Livingston's design for it's own sake and a clear set of drawings would be rather better than what I have now.  Having built your Jowitt I think this would be a popular with others too if you made them generally available.  (Not that I'm pushing, you understand)

However, it would still be good to know how Todd is getting on.

Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on July 06, 2017, 04:41:04 PM
Hi all...and yes I am still here!

This engine has taken a bit of a hiatus as I finished a couple woodworking projects as well as the following little distraction....

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kYehhbfyRqX1TpuCk-iEeTAglDrl-CB2T5wRIl7jmGLRgv6L6hHy48jYO76rrOFtp-Rgmccv-JTinAXd9JXJYdwBdPjd3kjusRJDJJswlucpgjB97D4rduS3BUMevy2boF_tMoe8ofMp7ze1pXL2SMi0SG8VFL4wShsYKft9iLHFFNSSRhQ4rSbPgokePmyZ-qnrQGbHHvR2g0Y4ciyroQGHqzEe7x7DbBjYFTwiZYmkLcJO2CciY43cH808kS2OUB0jyN4IydgfJMKEY5bPondISnG_uugv2UV-QK3aowX7yx5wFNK3YYWjIhrT82uCDh3HkpxMfyx1IPeosmtS1LW4b9KD2Z4qNddb8ag5Q_7fWUpRBAn2t7ZNqoSLUrqS9-JKTYzAM7IKLTbKC6fBsqYVdPIC-i8tTBAY9LyJXUainur8W7wgFFIo1dNlVyQVYkJEvkpdIOK5EZASEVC21JASfr2lZjX9Qy5JHATLiakGUZRljDnpa39P2Cdez-FxlqBkE04acx057e8VOu9NMMM5hhC5lg8TX_QPCUa5FK5DuUD9deLT_UHw7Dr7E-OXUWzgStucR9iCIHAe-VuhZmPZo2nUqKUOLZAiYrN1wyzKa_HbtdJZ61xaZpsARbOkA5oHyFJP4UP2pG7-7DTncKmZEdZgmIB5g-qtueiWoMw=w722-h541-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4a8kLqBRV9newjPqogudWpOwvGNC3ByTq0K9iyE5q53CUQ4tXTZzFrDQJ8Iec01CCMhuAGExghXY5Qoo00TpBGJVJbFOPHPlxSMFN2kflYlOpqg2kB11FF9uQmZm5Ye4QbJc9SGkZQeURXU6F4vI4oL0oz6AUvBMANkwOYMjDaw3gkU8fig8s5_6z9aiI7Bj6CQzI2GNOBnNjXqp4cNzAHYQAQiD4rjAkZjtQOrTZf7msdfyYf3RSs0qJ3KCBCaBddyxLLX1gPJI4619a65n4mw8n8WML6553euerdaBoabJsN1bZ6lNtcfFja4AEh7ZTBE5CzDVWcE5Kc9vCaSK-eo20x4cphC4HqpKL6jVmG76o420TH9ksXau78W_wqWzWU6bII9EUQBDGexbIsIgmU919tGOUhIo5hv6FzQfgHmvAktTWwWbb5mTaM5dtU7jmTXbF0SgybMrBj4ZIU07kI4Kwy3HsPos1Y6Ni6sNDQm3TjZmyCuDrYpvUTrzCRSt-yFB9R8AOozhk0eDtFZbLBfF_7MEgeN5Ox8bCiCpMWzRXt-qzXjJDHV4kaWpphx6Dt5Rvv4VyqUJ1ieZ6wSOESjExMeUxjCobruYBut62HJjqGkK6jkZQd6pz_LT9rYs-MP-rFjy3pB5N7g5kgNbK8fwH41K_OOmwPGH7x4B_QI=w706-h529-no)

Nichols and Shepard gets credit for building it in 1923.   It's a 20hp and hopefully will be running in about a week.   Then I'll get back to the regularly scheduled program :).   This rocking valve engine has sat neatly on my bench.  I plan to make the cylinder covers next and ideally will keep up a reasonable pace to keep everyone's interest.

On the plus side, no build log or photos have been missed!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on July 06, 2017, 04:43:36 PM
Wow - thats a nice little toy!   :o
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on July 06, 2017, 05:17:56 PM
Yeah...that would distract me too Todd!!  Hope we get to see it running as well.

Bill
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on July 06, 2017, 06:04:38 PM
Yeah...that would distract me too Todd!!  Hope we get to see it running as well.

Bill

Yeah, I'm in Rochester too, drive it over!!!  Oh, wait, one of the OTHER Rochesters.... Rats!
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jim Nic on July 06, 2017, 06:19:18 PM
Umm, yes.  I can see that one of those could take a man's thoughts off a model.    Thanks for keeping us informed and good luck with the "biggie".
Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on August 30, 2017, 11:18:52 PM
Cylinder Heads


Well, it's still steam season so I'll be distracted for a handful more weeks, but I did manage to get my shop back in order and knock out a couple of simple parts.  This time it's the cylinder heads.

The heads are suppose to match the diameter of the cylinder, but I thought I'd make them a bit proud of the surface on the chance that might look a little better.  Until I solder on the valve chest, I can chuck the cylinder with head and turn it down for a perfect fit if I change my mind.  Here I started on the front cylinder head, part C10, turning out a 1 inch boss that fits the cylinder bore.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xC0ubH7X2OJlonI3TU44D4_MxS9KV6HvrDcdgM7xEy4Nx02pxGsv8COdjHs45akdskenSV78cl7G5Yn-mftfNxoJm9ItLYXNCKrsvBDezgY8AgNFERARFCUYSaoHbxDZojKAi6gx6w7GxxiQrCvA5Ofp1MmEKAOYkxGGlYqmdpAOufQZugsLHUjgp6vybpxULT00cnLETpFdzhPBodUCHSSjLxgjvTrm2UY0ETN-CeqAMbZZg7o9Y62ZYmrosW2V1ZlqdYW1w7wlzXZ3A_pj6DGATa2E72h33F831a7cjd1v3FISIZPWIKgYh8JQU1lWlVcqz7gf7RYEroRJNQECs8eFfRrhRQ9fMhqiIDvvaKucZsbciCJaaX8LRTGO0x3zBsGnZycDA2z2J3IWwOfg3Qg2aHzk7y0ybcFbR4Y5roYPp7aXJrdHQGHqr6jCAH1YT1pVmjiXnRxf1ZAHA12omOw6VkR7prOLluYGOpBP5590W3b-5oDcs1yKpChQkG9X_mDuaASyB7zacNIsu4CnWYCmkadmitqQxaMcFHxiTJ_QqaapIkja2Am5XH7WA8xw9RcZq3NEsewWoyvXeB6Z52t5o4xkXHo1H8pQdqbwISrcTuk2D_enXXrfoJ8duDLDRjG6cvhHEJKuUgYqgrsY-qw7GZrwvJphJiFoHrkbDxKiIGQ=w808-h606-no)

I sliced it off with the bandsaw and had to face the back side.  Since the boss was 1 inch I could chuck it in a collet.  Very light cuts and no mishaps.  I suppose I should learn the trick of gluing it to a flat surface for these cases.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qfjx2eFalaTgBDaGxuCb82eNSsEdrTPkfbRjsfQdZ_fuK0ppbjafoW8cZvy39C66XuxgOXLZUKEtDxS_OTgMRQoKw0WaOIwkWtXo5ynlJABkkwqhb-jgtGcMZZWwnjYM8dB44ZDk-frJEk8fSHsSFnrpih_7fb6HKTuMtPtqBTHmWTWzRCmfv0i3nwe_OjbXSAynpvBim42iEYGC0KYJiknauh3bG3rKiYt74dtA6F6YMX5Ki18JOPNkpamNrUurjb_1euEY6fYzxV7k3W92dgP22bfwIjri7Fgi5aoJIuHb59X9yqJslccW6j8zdn75V5myTXnZs-P_So7SMzbzS4EkRzhk438Gs5UQ7gYpeHwM9x2mDJ241mK8bhRtFmehZ0B0KT_YPbielHfPt5A86sJnQDXnFFekSQTrAlwGIz2M3Z_p3YFni0GKbSesbsxP0aqAtUvn-1RvCUBn6kzmJP2BhNXMvSumHnE13E-fUXTg-Wi_08LVcp1JnCCHkyIwoQms768qBFx9fjN0GLE4afJKA6-wFx7cDxZdfsu2HgKtClfHyBYr2VRgRWxY_AnDnqRHTszXapFm19QVuWHpLK-e3HM7GV_csSmTzUq2AukZrQI4IScVz6iw-hRELmN3WgLays7XjhuWMbR3-PLfwJJcv21gIDiZnTTxro4lreP1AY4=w808-h606-no)

Finally I did a light trepanning operation on the front.  This was purely cosmetic and I went deep enough until I thought it looked good.   My depth was 15 thousandths and I see the print called for 31 thousandths.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K8XtKdjIfMXvuqgzg3knzL69kGQDTs53lXN1FC5ojDwYd1rB-q8CLhr3Cv41eo9K5blkalnRO2YqDLT_c-sy9sohlsDhtCkAKiDaVsNw7YqRlwcNw_jBQrj--RGO8t7dH0_2hQi0B93PTRWsdlXgTSvf6VN9wGy1RvxndcpX7HJxdpimRyUjXGFkVgqiupCmFOByY_0p5-HAi4xnNQ77NGhXQ6eWCBAFSgbdYHAAGzKxpULhlrN9u2KCbA-WAy0tRsLGeqSeLlyHqGVG0oJBX1PMtLB2zynefvbHmXUTrY4WTVshBc_E7KXAAUUh0LPSnRzHr6T88o33xONaXVaiB6ay9wf26VcO2Ep6mzl57F-Efh9WIh8jlmLxWcNBef6IvQp2TvtX51bzSI3e8OUfb0kNGStHGLICSdQRfe5w8mvjeCmtxKsI7L7Qp39NCY-pIt4MQnL7F5ZZMycPwXGMyd8IPMGjjJFxAL9EyX9qX--rEKXPg9ALq7_n-oUnULzK-WqBJdpe8XS5Br_3JVdAOKlrU5kfi4uBm91GxBv2IA2UrrAgNYjvfCuEvegeKnKGajBHyDKJTT3BEIx62eRecjxcgd8kgV3_nrLBNxWiJMB7GnU92Al1xjkQzyIkeOG-fyHIvg2czjBsFdfpDxyopeZamEuvdgxr0Npv0LNc7AC0wlc=w808-h606-no)

Before drilling the bolt circles, I made the rear cylinder head, part C11, in a similar manner.  This part has a boss on each side.  The smaller diameter boss, but more protruding, fits the crosshead trunk and is 0.75 inch.   The larger diameter, but shallow, end fits the cylinder and is, of course, 1 inch like the front cylinder head.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ik2aD8kywsPlAiWgcP8HLha-rKO3WgaBxClBRe-ulPhX7rcnm10uxXCPK6jfWu7HS_i-v9YJ4WxyuCqRh7Wgx4livZo88KuK0t2XjVxyPvKYom2U_uWfHL8jRdMJIJrtHCuh5J8NrlkY5uizmBJhTzPbV0sf4dfanHf938wJf4u1z-3aEw1QSrnpPgN9ySDq30vQwS8FJSIiDJtBlbUQAtLaK9pGGjit6LDJCCha2bhO9z65UGQgC9pyUjnsUDFxMCCJn9O7c0xtqF3GIDZA2Q2ncJJTQ_YbhbbNlXD23vWKKISQSj0PI6TMEDnwmvprjB1CcF0LSApChs25kiRDOTdNz_O-u7h866O5KxZQWh-0AbTtV2Ktm3Gcj9famp_YQYiKvu_Bte7UQ7TLGPkzEVFoWY_JEwRyQhBUX8uXGtbKk6i-c7Q4wJ3ZYGglebl1krczAlJfBjhG11LzOkMBZEorYyImhMbpv2qPE3nMRJY_wiZ5StOPXBjdHqXYnD6tWwX7bALAvEc65Hvxln8xR2qLCMM1nIEXO-7qHys-z-0O5rsEjfME71-Y5-3m6xhbKiNwRUymmPRyLRBidFNpvfjcLq6E7ZrKjHYxZLmkE7UFCpO9W_TgKW9YcibSMoDCifhfZvgY44G0MZTrcmWAAG8E6p6EHxo7iWU-SuhxR31VYDk=w808-h606-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wkPe0ppVvr-t5sVi9mN8B6dTXHGcVOnNWRObarALh5Vc4ZIZ6zc_NcQvMDORLFC4fH3vzS42PLU3eaeQ64kFeT1QVi9_gVId4HE5GvM7CFrJ5BR1cWm4o3wm2QiQrNSGNLlZxkh4x24fw7wPR0MdE9Fs0GJsls_1BqVU85K22xKoJ4W9Mnu14OxUevJAT5ggFzHG1E1Lht-_V-KvoEmVgN2WoSVK9EIP507O9R1_SF7u8I2kk45gEIgCY8Bte--PWaiF0Cxh_gPk8wLLGdgZ1E4aSPOZ8cmeqUmDpMbYvIA-ZAYzQlerxbCpfHCedqIFWBd41a9gcxvrqzfwski7S9x6-TjXCE2_xmGD2oCwcQPVU1I_q_hjbogyWljBJ5mtPsRs4e9JoTZnG9aLtv3xlA9exFxgZZYTsA0xCq2Wm8xkG4Bmma411XZME_wBOfTiIzsIgPgJpb6Ror1-stm6GWxptLqhDuCRbLaTxsNe9y1gzpiB5Z-KLyxqctJthY0k0PWBDwqG3D10cF6vQdJnV6zcT8WSYpOoiXtXvhMLQqpMwrqxBeF52iJlRiJ2VqlMOlTXCTvzc69YVKR0YQfm4RjS3tSmzS5406RmP9qhHl3yChu4OhB8oEheyKVmaJo6EFHReFG684KsV8bmZIBDNJ3P2U3p4aSZePVf6KdLHZQsQj4=w808-h606-no)

Finally, the rear cylinder head had to be drilled and reamed to fit the piston rod.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hXpq5Pdi_t51kRwNO00I5YRqYbCWaAk39-w1F5bidnT0sYgc2RmpkHzAzUxaMYMitKY5wTjS3_JibTHTq2e8_W99Uh5Tt6AE6mN55Lf99VznpsAyOaYOUD4ZQg9iTghBPf80qR5_hgdn4QTn_JRNDIjUsm_WBrkaZ1sqB-VTMaDXOodOAvdBKCVzdGIFFUVHAW6hrwkasw2xnxn2W7MrD-q6GVBWJm3yf7bfMzjSCQiejjU809n-Smq6YF7X82gTzrRzwM1wN8fJNohE7otGP8xs84eVmz8MEBFizPaYo-P0UM0ZX13S-B4PpOex1XOoVPlCHihoXaem7IF_8acEYZgyn8KqcGh1a5r0O_5K_r0dSAen7PG66Te0tOKnZXhG0HqCY1rAgW7Mo7hJ7lbokavL8568ieUapOt-dACaY2bgqbj9XFZ0Bx-aPSIg3EIEwWBOlFC0eGpsoCnZKtwkoQL_Ql0N-ot566MarhBH46U7hQuO0PMiqKIE6ohnst-WChkjbSL6KdlH4JP9wSL4w-R9fddsjYDp9gFoT0zzbpcJ1cBo5vIE973XF50JeCFMWkr6QlUzajPn0pNmMrRhsdZmtshbswir76_Fo8ocfz8X2W9ZhUgBCRUzdx_7PIR3oWasQAuqMQBIk6nraLk-KbMgU7-9DsDck8EKeCZPeOUVuhI=w808-h606-no)

I still need to thread the cross-head side of the rear head for the packing nut.   This is a 3/16-24 thread and I don't happen to have a tap for it.  It's an excuse to fill out my tap collection so I'll do that later.

Next it was a matter of drilling bolt circles to match the cylinder.   The front of the cylinder has a full circle (shown), while the back had a different layout due to the construction of the cross-head.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L4KWb0z0Vs2nMiC0ArRi4SvURQU0NcSZUw11OMk8xxs47jezXWDe8YoWpYZT7ijaHJK6ssFE04oiSbm4lt_snhz85M-xwqp0giyCrBcq5rHM0y61szsfdzkvfdpc-Wa9TJQyGm2zxsXxSYvJtKUA6eUbYmq4UgwFUaZV3ZAWVTDfInBlaq2XYdEQBGaqXgoseWmyOt9gD4YSzFclSJGgBdUJqiNUlzA1kAJQ7tCIJGTw8W2fCfQFPArIREdg3ivFut1yiH_k_vDtMnDSIrTbkNrRZXXOo3LGeLNot0MTarWHg2oKuw8i6O32a9npER8i7iKL1PsIx8cxUEKMTBGPBxiQlbElgP_bYWzD_HUG6_2ASz7XhNvgC8XJbDZYySkrerlSAN5c-ei8Gy-Sf5FqWZGZRQduEB3ldsSxEYgwJYJgSQak5KXocVj_8-03IyXSdlBGf-n9DlSPD5q_GVieE1CjEPrbXqMCeXw2KHQqRxrCcMdMVmSiiraLir-y1-Spgtur2KNa0fI_o-rMfcI055XvwT2XSFyqFe3Gc7CA26JrMU6IECJvpmT4pp8c50urAKBmQTfFaS26-TP0cHv0FaLhfpL8pShapl2oxZ5ZY0KnVrN1AqD4pOmS6c7S9jxkC_ytWY5zRWq0Xi_k7U1nnv0wg0VU8_nfySGt9CJEyz4dn_c=w808-h606-no)

Finally, I decided the heads were a little too big so I trimmed back the diameter on the lathe.  This was easy because I could bolt them in place for the cut.   I did this by eye and matched the rear cylinder head to the same diameter.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MJbMaodShmWbx480SlspOX6BPQRfiErysvPf-pO_OwJ99GpPxzeTiOOtRmiFsPl-ygEllovnzw1e_RIKAiUEOUbW6Zz3-IwJlX5fJSb8pdiTkWyTXawPmx9RmarvY_tHxKNcDoKF3H91LqY4fljDD4bp6AAV4RoHq2zgq1KtNvsaIA8PngPjASdJyGWs3cYp8nZeHlibTCLduUq7Ix18Coy9J5VeCOdPrmDTXjvtic3Gc7NyS2D34-g4Xs6d0xl1xwFngSGwHLteX9qlxL-z4ffYF4vS2t2iw05VS4ZOi0ohbWkDtjlP_lYwjEcQZRQwujJquNlD595kJiZj6ktgk3awSAYlBTROfGI_6WW-CvCHBrwjYuLsHqDie7iDV091qet85HUt8mj_7Ma1cfeTVcfntMIb9AO7hn1sAiFjRb0codGhvaTBmc5iZSq0cer_lnn51yn3J5Ydc6tOTvUYInEooDs9bB9JXlcPqw9gnSYC6T3ISu6j1k9FX2vvXyNuJIHSB5mg_0q2kX-Nl41cBoMixzXGxMEuDZEjZBOM-xI2JOp1KdzJ_zVo37OjyhF6xuN9oXfMf5V9UGeWK7i9kaar8wmWtL8mdWbHuyOCicCMkzhMLaJkSnkQhXFGoBgaH6JaTaD0K4JNEUIO21tiqqlt1Pc6NbXMMf3ZQbgmzUaorYE=w808-h606-no)

Not too shabby!  The engine looks much better with the heads in place.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zvOTtvOdB-7xvfdSwVs78_5b7VoivmKuDmVQvRK6UT7qhlRgBkyuqmGfzYMQ4eb1TItRclIOfkpVV7ZDqWR4Wct76a2dKNJbFKgO6l0_UqdjJkawjRUYRUVX25h4HZ33dTGpsOazNN4DJpvi29j-UhdDy6CJy17usnF9gk0vTLBX7e-gBY1qmmUIhqU5-A8mEWZ-b6OJOMyo5-oVvEpsD3eax6LvkRXrT1_coTtKjL_0Mibch-PUKn9IrBPK5ye3zs1bi-HVOl6zEriyVYXaPKBFl9oXUHjPPo2UJzt76N9e9u1li02Oo7vCtJhRjXJAw2ymxc-vjquBYFoccIrFArsdxSZZZL5itvWkfRQo8wYViKIdlYVnS0FxTun9fjSNUUmumsAlP0CqUZ7JzlnrYX3Xl5qj-pXboT5a3t6H7MmOIJh6gQdL3QpKAmK7dx1AU_5TY0SVl7rylnMQ1Zf6dmQFjbLyWWa95hz3DMevJV10XOcbFQ-RcHPlQpd29N7BnA4L7wmg43xWYVwb1ahg-V103sAJd3oscc5zU2JXjlEP4XGZkaiwaljqR93e96vIRJFWsm1RAlJgeTjpDTDK-6yUgBJ8YfIPOJg8dY8WhCIukyJWzkEJcDjS5-Wzvk7s7IIDvSyKaaeS-ynWFbxPePvAXtNZLl-xCs08Ky84fCci2a4=w808-h606-no)

Sorry for so many pictures for so little work, but I have to make it look like I'm working somehow!   Hopefully this build will speed up in the next few weeks.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on August 30, 2017, 11:55:33 PM

Beautiful work Todd, and I like the slightly over size heads.

Thomas
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on August 31, 2017, 12:04:24 AM
Nice looking build so far Todd. Hope you can get back to it soon.

Bill
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 11, 2017, 03:05:09 PM
Valve Chamber and Exhaust Port


I finally got back into the shop for some metalworking!  This weekend I made the valve chamber and exhaust port, both of which were a bit taxing for me as I haven't been doing this for some time and what little skills I have are already a bit rusty.

I started with a 1.25" sq bar of brass to form the valve chamber.  The valve chamber straddles the cylinder and needs a cove cut which I made with a boring head.  I haven't used this boring head much and figuring out how to adjust for the proper diameter was the first puzzle.  Since this part needed to be cut to fit the cylinder, I decided that "close" was good enough so I simply centered the mill over the edge of the stock using a center finder, moved X out to the 0.75" radius, installed the boring head and finally adjusted the bar to just nick the part.  This worked fine, but when testing I found the cut was slightly undersized.  But with a few more cuts I finally got a nice fit.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OTIOQELZohhA4nzP02sR0bYA1c0FbdK89xDHExtDEZEBslpymacHj5qCgHpQW9-UNA8PbKfh8RKdvI8S0YksDsio97iuHnwAL_uIBEJMYrNXIU2uICqCuUFIsg4XpV6rr1FKQ0ROnErZd0GYtHl859DPaGeoS0VihvqaOLeyIJfFGzvT2ueYlYtV-_0KSmN28NEqzqajCLPgqz7iL-6Qw1ygiS2wDxY7ZM4LL9WWyQxWXQ3a6ZBNKuRy-Rb9GE_lBeHc4Tm4FJt5lhxP58PSksK0M7A-qBuDdql8TLWroHPNZRWP60bK1uUTs-9uIJF8FZV1ETv2SImBsh2CEqVvkH4jt04C-zaAGaRwrPEbDO3FKpD39hHIDw8SMmKXCFJkfCafoy2DFSiXfckIP_-XW4u8KhbYWNPKHRvKELqX0qYaURF9SIDqDAWiI97pq_eoX1D4aTN0llQKOXdfLMWi1JQfTwhnBPIIk10QBf0TNylOySkpM8xlJpd1Qbxeikfh6-ppu_Jwz1J1kyOzFSsDFSTgdbVF5_6sSyovrtQ7Sg2FpCEV_ziy8HRRaiCuLukOd413DwaEwEn8pjC0fr-rzpWP_YwMoPJs9byW-HC1U43ucSuANjuftQJ9wfhtZRet8X070CIeCernH1EKh7Wkw03Z7AwJZWUsb6Hf=w881-h441-no)

I used a stop as you could see in the previous photo.  While this may have helped hold the part for the boring bar, I really used it for the next operation which involved drilling a hole for the rotary valve in the side of the part.  I touched off zero on the curve as the part was placed in the previous photo, then flipped it sideways and dialed it back in X to where this hole needs to be.   Note that I also made some layout markings just to keep my head on straight.  As I did this, I ran into another puzzle.  I had carefully machined this block of brass per the prints, but found that the block was much too high (in X in this photo).   The error in the print is that it is dimensioned as 1-3/16ths, but it is really only 13/16ths.  Why fractions are used in the first place is beyond me.  The funny thing is that the photo in the book shows the same mistake.  The part looks exactly like mine :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pJZHWFG5IybjE4A4zuF5XPhpNAGmbJByOltQKTtFo4ng4tE7PXB5bMkyKJ5pyFb5P-3qVBQE7BqrCZsxpKw9mqynK_XeVNc3Z7hjWTIiLqRiZPPCJPuh1-fAtb86oX9DvJFx0DYzasGqzZozSepY0hthMkclcwKQDcckoah76WsRY6XBh6u_OCAnoUXM4lGsOMGowHcfbg013yPYEYmh7z6btsISbipMG7h3XHVrn-w-VfT2Tmz0JF-soiq81k8eR1FtzWIuaQr4Y1RyscrInG5y1sEdG8D-FAtXXFDXVs_rAYM98_gCVGNeps9J84bmR_9bUm4z23yGIuwzDaOflEXriS6Y8n-flYwafXZsRrAaRo7qZ5yi1RqAan5WvmwrvRXZG0IbNGqBNKKCnQxevmFkCtiSe95WGc6ViU9QD8SfTYO57553z6RAWSTdNKP0DqoSf6VKUpdNz9-MtDhslwCRzRsVxCeQUKqmNpnOxr90VYXqYKW_jKrIvzG3PWxAC223QQdwHJeGJamDORfgYdGf_QWBqBKKXKrYulNTQpVfy9xy8Z30iKvvSe3Qunyjl07O60FBd_8gvlZqoJ8UYWR5YqR6GrWn_enFuv6Gr_uG2Tt-4lXYD_eJCcwYNAnPJ6qexXa71gVb4WIdsEGpFEExSu9Ry1M2TQ1t=w881-h441-no)

While my boring head was set for the cylinder radius, I set the valve chamber aside and worked on the exhaust port which also mounts to the cylinder.  The port is 11/16ths diameter (yes, fractions!) with a 1/4" hole for exhaust.  I turned and drilled it using my spiffy 5C collet chuck which I got from Santa last year :).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vNXYZ3LjlaGghpiIrnpl6ayqfUKMcIVNsDZ10Od3wqOtfbu2jEmrlQ3kMbXhh5x5CApgi_JuZhoBmBxTmxH2jrEGTnMdA3hSYDQg1sKsFzKsD3ZdET7K02Hffv70wD4IK5Ds93Y465h2TMa7ZL1OwfNnSQoXeMBWTFZpKKtsZjJ9W3YnYMm5VECuRdObWRnqDu-jeqHkoz4ZLWHD8CWr7IMPUkjBYC6x2W4-HphDMwKnqX05-p9p-xqsyTqnLg12DokipSACwQoMJjP2DokCITQYQ9H1eOUdLqmepZdz3qZAiiP_GWaC1fz99xOiXPJlsHHOx-1zrvyR2VU5BWg47QVCVEpWhEn_fLhaAwo7EwIsjUExlHAk7uZQFP8pfxpff3IgPli_sRVvvZnfFXt-HXqW0qGBe_Gvu3PPMBFJU_3q3Jok2PGEArGw1OTK9rizr8pgeD7aSRTAamd6StCtdijAyDWjkPmpdNaH-48Q6UNF_oDp8x0I5oIaIfyt9slAdBMdNu-8lsmDWxUGjRg-OJVm3JxBH2jDGzhGv4lhRaW5Hk7Z26njBc6UQIki-4tK5JcmIo18lHxGAdp8IAUnNCdDGnlJwqdAunb3_Fi0W7W8mRRub1WJm4L-DwQaHKXK3pCpPVP7iOsyC5r0uRqJBLB2o2tvWzNTNTxn=w881-h441-no)

And then it was back to the mill to machine the curve to fit the cylinder.  This time the stop was really just helping hold the part.  The stop was still in place so I used it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QBUoPbf7MKjLqf_J2YSz0Bl4aziFaco_GTENj87SbiXUvf8u4bCpK-ZHp6T3_e9TXbfoKDGG2IS2JH9YIoAQ7jiW1OhPOCPxY43zqTwqTo3dGQBtGPH7gTc-7OnBMfZgkoyxnG2QYK3dlFpt8_maBPfxDpNf-Ai6DTPPAsZ7Tje7I0NBESwSLPrvRbc9-na7RLLvLshHOI_-I50piFNYGaFQ08ScXKxhN4YSsc_RDyFcAP4M84ClSxTGt2k8xyJAE3CjZXXC1q6U_CKFI12ZVY-umqn_87m8GxIxhubk6OVaqh5p4VjIt7uOnwMtz69THlGDZ9JMWocSiDzQankt-6gEFhmUX2oxnxCFeF_lS3l2ZIopMfXNfRGjmqAlEpoW09fNxReJ9Vsr0vNHDqqhx9QWyJKjYwlcInhtUWVnPB5iImY-rKSbHGOJ7CbT2lk7nfxOFSC0Ax_52HXlyMxd2BgUjWbSyN4DsyN2GS2wzb-4oq9Pn9pIqaV53j3leh4s4ME4CwJvxQrujiLlWomj3p4nbNLtZfjkn3KO-NEdKS23WE24u9w7Rfd5OisUfeDehpWGPflgJ_s9LExs7NJkBKa8h4nzc5sfr8u-RNxWF-dXPMqXFbBzWnqPDaZPLvr-GEXLy385otb3qHh0ZYrq5ZwzmTYjiBoXdO4U=w881-h441-no)

Fitting the exhaust port to the cylinder turned out to be much more fiddly than I thought.  There will be a valve cover on the valve that may interfere with the exhaust port.  In the next photo you can imagine a valve cover in the valve chamber in the block I machined earlier and you can see how it may interfere.  I took the exhaust port back over to the mill to "raise" the bore a little higher (with respect to this photo), and eventually just turned the port to a bit smaller diameter to finish it off.   (By the way, it was incredibly fun to hold the parts and camera and push the button at the same time for this photo!)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uL5oKt_Lry85v0pUSlyD4UZ4bgosI1k1RwBnwrOeIbGxeEFKGaHKvlWcr2qCbobAVcRg91g968DMaYBxYeMk0zZ_DkXCEIHIKghThy-WU0sR6Er0yVhwR-0U2gcx_4Xp4YhhJ2f_QIVi8PXrnjmAgVTXaImavVlfENplbRFlawsBjDf5sNsv4qSM9nAphsuuDFacPN18ZGOTbipTMTBz7pYEFaAkHvEAOFZq6CyOw95OOsV_B0lJqOwc4A8429UTfWvAxMeOfvCytaeyJR1E4Oh78SeLrgSJhR4yG0cTReCGQkAUWMuGD4eiU7ZQzOOp4L8-XgwUcEohHHpDWD9PMqUg-nWcWtj6nj-JFvYLROmDoWx73Q2x8ZmUOE9qv2RsVJyEUFR5IbfeKnVO6EyL-oGRXLUUE_MLBOGSct9OUo1Tx3VfKSgmYhZit6BB5c0YbNbzRqJQ3zfHTcXqSG1lLB13ybIuZ8ymXoVc1M4NUNr64BfBhK9LfHwlUAasjTIwF_4en3xoG4R15wJDtBi6lAM1tAGXRCQ8yL9FGS3PMadumFYTAlNbjTvFQucxNdN3wch4-sOvzEDOZHFXyu2XYoDlWlBA6wL_qAL8cLzHF4PCuhKvdAFJovlt-HkTtaN2qcH_OQGS8i8PznSqxwJEjgsyl6Skx5ifrHb-=w881-h441-no)

Next I had to cut ports through the valve chamber.  And here is where I hit puzzle #3.  In looking at the spacing of the parts in the valve chamber, I realized they didn't match the cylinder ports!  Perhaps it was a good thing the print had a publication error in the dimension of the overall valve chamber size because I was now looking at dimensions like a hawk and probably would have overlooked this.  Looking at the part in the next photo you can see the lines I scribed for the ports.  The center is exhaust and, of course, lines up perfectly.  The two side ports are dimensioned as 3/32 away from the center port's edge for the valve chamber, yet they are 5/32 away on the cylinder.  Yikes!  It could be that the publisher misread a 3 for a 5, or maybe the original drawing had the spacing from the centerline.  I decided the valve chamber must be correct as the total overall distance between outer edges matched the valve chamber hole.  So I decided to cut the valve chamber per the print:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JASkpweC-3dQNqP6twuKhmszRxikQoMUsM79gdMR9rfAG_GLGy3i7vb7jU7pzKOx0wPBrPK5m4mM7GFwSgAl6VNoktSVfGYj0ax8l9Se3WMgwHXLWtnwwwuTBrWdTY51PwIAd1gD_rnV_5E766PcKdRDx6tc4TbS1uGMdwzvYTP67j2E769jB_z_6bR5xznnxMa1fYKOdmrZeetBixQjCr1fHtbMzFND5X9JijyF496ZFvOfBLIMixPv5YpLUllOLldp3muzc-RiviTT0PB0WTscfEc2NJbQ9uWUYQUCIrBTP63_qMYijGL3JyAHiTt0WeYL_D-Ym5iGq4Psyr_u8h3YFKaw66nfxW83rboGlrAA_5nkNcbdmTTWMpDxRYc6dixTrDuDJn9H8Wdg7z6yU4sdD9vm1gG8y3u8o6HH6V3YbH81QYZKP8IIfL9RaHuQl6wtIuJkFzV-v9EdNpzZK7VtewVRVfTMmZKUXACU82jh-GgXf9PLUZT1Kg6UyQJ-gsM8MpdR_kZp3KTqhdTMFCZ6scjlSP9w8O4qIe-Yhr_bTAtXo48TpHmk2FCtpdgPRvhG484ohTeL_sdEmqmcsbkOWf_gedXIR2ufOahphZWrGJKGpips83BbSJG9lnwegWoa1SCMCrFm8qPNWDAWg2Biuvj_NRUBivd=w881-h441-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hHVQ3rLMW6GfsIWVM5VWTLlTRMd5HByeuepx2l4cr0RloMspe3JNknldEQfGVviDO_JcY9w3U-7wDiR9jZXAGp2EOwKPHg86h8WPUmwSiUtlzNtxTTHvd1F8WzhvTRvPTDAN8Xfhr80Kp0i3svdgOMBaO_lBr4kRSb0PyOQgoSeQ27SB5dKybbeyfQPDwGYRe4pVjMJN_C0VdsVK_FiTheUHi2zras7yYQoONg43ye3IBbq_F1ly5DgVKnUt7Slpe2QFyfqQjLVEMnecybhq9u52ADILc18QCb74Lrg_A8YEZu3X9O4s9s9_RKCBJL8naKiosd9dEK7PQKHtIfXfcYWmH__tm1Rc3iuAqY8UoRGibwMyktuW23vlSH3entn-EYWngPr3xjT--lfJRKWXSx2NAxdNwQzWr4kaiY-mIHdv3K00DjM8I_2G5uINuHOkkRDPyXz938xExE8Y66psF_zpAGqJQnwf9Gw6BwHMYAMByesZYQM1K5Ke1GBfysBKeNoQEiRpysgHRGEqt7EUhT9xkTcWuLdAQSsHvAdlkJRetHPdXPBaVX0hcGVAqbDZ2oQDR1MhUYdcBAuHxdprnhNDM0lIMyQZe8maK_q3Or5Am61N62fKnF7BcjShziSfFT6Qa0lj9pdmo99RgRu9TgiwWW6Brhm27jTf=w881-h441-no)

Then I went back to the cylinder and knocked off the inside edges of the ports at a 45 degree angle to form steam passages.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iOVGNqkgV0tPHEsRrWf2xfrsf7s9w-5xm1xC9RHTSP6Rj7Vn0gnwS74r-lEoRo_RF79HpCvD2bMXfc-CY3JKS225Jv_0Tw_OVZwssONaUR7h5kn-gD6HfChgaBp5mqnRX8VQShkLDFB71JgKLdZF7YQbq4_L3kwFGgUC4LFCS93mjNSmz_8kJ-iZBIOAmXCC1C4I2T7gHuaz6x7a-8Q_Fhhx3xoP2vMP_oLwMONOdBvi7Y_5Y-9IjDH5BXeHqCBrqimDM05tASu2HVsGOrJnOweNOQtm-kN3BTbsSSihb8oPLJPaDYzgw9MqUpNGumSimNq-vWMOCX6vRb1mJvKoFC8zQnamKqhwjS6rE1wx_EyrQbxzfRa5OtXF01bHgR0VaBQP8rCTO43DYVN0J-M0I91swoo666LFBEBJnsMsW1aNEo-SUxaqZniEeHTLyM3IS8iv4vLAfvIniQfFDNA_6yYRPto7x0kJyWCJNfcJWQ8jVDVbeBOZ9GpDN9njgNWzu5qqXEDFT8122nkDsuOHSqIhmd2sOs-G-VBVKh53N3AbLQgODqxdh8VcAoigbmwfJMu6V61MWzjvBNCaM4tyzwlFJ3Ar91TBE0kUd0uCK9HLzI0TL79z8m9DSZCkp0HtM6NPgZp_R71H0_8RGTbhE4kLgYJrkEMzDWDs=w881-h441-no)

Next I flipped the valve chamber so it was oriented as it will sit on the cylinder and drilled an input passage straight down.  Note that I had used a bandsaw to finally trim off the excess material off the top.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jE0qs5qL0Zwwzh1t-PNQiZKszcnN5Ymzso3_-JolAdHJ1-fibWoQuuxIieERuZWoLjMTUEhYB2UTF6c8cVjDe-zQ7ZIYGMuXYmDcqUX5jky_4dCVVdL7eSI7lvXljvRy-Q3TGUE4jatrO0ol3mLbNFAnCTYxBPSwdUL2bazX5idWOq3uFtkeaoifegBdJd56qfsy2mbj96roS9vHyr6LSVNg7vCh1xX-NDWwFFZYtImCxGcyC439iizcBPRr6BL4_CjewcLnrM9_CxQsX0snGBEMS3E2pNMHCHVwRXGxhftUoBN5DoTKvXk9I_CEuAS2tORMIjO0zrZWLnOi8vo0STAHyF-DXsNOwhJK_MTWnGBA7omeNxDYgXQTrQuw2U2_Azt1KLtyY7klmqFDwoCE6SJW-epOty2hvlm9KWWAAGI-G8xGYCF-kiKaq_Vm6BzPNUZypmskkEJ79ZNIA2cyK7BSIlDx5sc9w0bDMI6X4pURztTjfFjUeStrkVk4TKGJjWoanqHNQ1qnqCWQDDWc4nmflM-Lhud8SyYGB7kuSix8_hLoo5TUjy8Xe0aniuwJvAYyra6EADOL4sKjvQEV4pOxyd-aMugNeBqx2djCYFD4kd7W250PY2nrnjRaVu41kg6-w2TpDVeCUAAt6MuBplESZ3M2bEkEqiHW=w881-h441-no)

Finally, a little RT work allowed me to cut the angles and round off the top.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O_NmS3Ery32getbQgxkMa5Z6LFsFQiAtfN82D1DnwIIdb6yfrqUFX9g-bgo0TORsZKvlbCtRK3Cr4BugeSlcmiP5OTZP8F2hRvoXjSjIaZvY5iEMv2rEg514GeqqGvIWPwDpLjEVExf97nex6gcXizSVIkq6paRRN1-DFr4qor20CPwicpbSVxF8PisRMPtFMNSmr_aJ4utWxQe8A3XqfVDWHFN8iqzPEwXYQit6lXieol_XJAP-LcMnyjpUK0U_a48S1CmEyy-tOh4uD6xwXX8eC7Ri3BzYISEo-1OK-F-h2BzMnge3s-fsGQoBi-kYpyRyX90O8pTGXLNuLzFPdCuD_p0KY4jTq498gRMqkKJl2L7KlRVeCQDX7gYHGND_btj6_MbFPmJd8kK7BTCG1DKwAjbwj_dUoWqekmt0fND-lKxd015CILhTa_ocRPK4Bh-LZZsJ3nG0W018drJ3O0RKl19B4vkNK1CiFWbn9K0stc_twRfuo93f9PKB_n7XI-Lxm6t9llDgrokoEX0PGkPu3wmQ1gsARIjDR7Z50O1PiZOd67FCErN-HqkAs86Nka424ljHGq1zUjZVDpjC5YjJZOz3DvB2pRPOgMTb6ifTpnbKRlfnvMACsoAGtcABIOH_alOmu0ZtUM5j9Fwx1HTM-nZQT5KMTgqg=w881-h441-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kTOCzK2vY3asB7QFiX6Qo2dQg-jyR2JefZKzIypFCCZkkH29vWT5sDFe72ry7Rec_35YmH8c0DgyfwXBpDF7272ETM5C7o3w3gOTb4OCLomveLqqwRdAiofMJS5Nay-l0H9kXLLd-G-7D8owShi6eIwfpySqTZEkJvBQ_p0lVRsjfcSfONkYD3KSStD5JmsRENoqrrs8tquJzyzGIZVVrDkf4GQAIB19Ex_j_4r86pN7V2QadCIti5Xw50x2nDcJctkAhH-fFLwZ868D5XPRfsOjq2kUKf85Rg_OfLcT1mqeW1s8KhvBaaVUBjbiI65GXxqByfULVgyNsqj8FE0zCxcKRAijWEj2NrphkzB4ffIpElBEW-XWpdWnaAFwJUk1llbhbkQHBYpVKKkONPsvorwm-K08FROcbrX-Kc2ElBu0xLnwq7LtmNm87AQMLMlfJQf80LUwp5F3uRpb89jU0HrKbJUQbKEBxocy2pGTnfryh3V2L6Y1141lPw6HxEDEU9MgP1bmHZv7XhXx3a6tEEz0mCGpUYWbrXuizGuKI9X2MkqaWnVGPkq1PVNFTT4_XzFuLgiXhrNRqu7TM-eP9Wchln4wOAT_zDyKkLjhKM9M0cOyi35YYHJzok1RXiKPujFool1ztL8OLKl-NuifRx63-E1cisqhgW9X=w881-h441-no)

And here we have two new parts, along with a slightly modified cylinder.  I think everything is going to line up now.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2VCs2TUf-EbmP6Hd46OW2cGLxmqJ-8wGvJnlmDfcf3XGSTMZkJnsdCbL8favX9rNOMzyY_ml7rnbpDJvKrfe1nxkZ5bYKCk27D7yIJH7fyov2fvQjAnwAg0uSHuMOZ0FudsPD9xEP-1jB0zlRuMlU_VxCuMuWivapddRcD4Y6IYeK1Epww5FmJGuDLqaaioxPR20yjXViKHrFkZMI2CDGLax8qkbz3n3mBROb-egQW9NNAAz-kqwXI6LTFir7eunuFp9Z-KaN-avlBLJX60g77Ywb1trOfbtzo2WvNDUVcRXi-2mFurh06usv5Tu9eImcvjPbZugzZi9riG07k2yz85STJuMxvKSeItDGRfaUMU958E7P5cYtSzciji0eOnm7dTJwtv34BbXmer9KotO1d4CEfVJ3jT9JFLgFOgSWRp2VkAwc1j1ATb1neusyGvKlD6aK1VyOU_KMexTdlKsXjzbr0n-_KpaitU-Ne59CcXvErwnWywCJud87dEQ1UW2RJsPAww4qVpxIW_O-NnQmBg2Z_n0x_Rle9ek2ms49U0PwMaogNw20DAx0gXFTt9Jfo8Jrz3NKXemB5N0T25sNJnEXfEdTXznAdRJU1acMK38GEK4rRsX_jBO6eyYq5cmX-I4IGpjEyZd3l-1wFBxaEz9LfFsWrqEsowc=w881-h441-no)

Next I need to machine a steam inlet cap that sits on top of the valve chamber.  This inline cap will serve as a flat mounting spot for the governor.  I also need to make a valve sleeve.  You may have wondered why I simply drilled the valve chamber rather than reaming for a valve, and this is because it is sleeved.  I was wondering why the heck it should have a sleeve, but I think it's because the sleeve can have much more precise slots cut as they can be cut straight into the sleeve rather than at goofy angles as I have inside the valve chamber.  But that's next time.

Thanks for looking!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on December 11, 2017, 03:23:01 PM
Good to see you back at this one - some complex parts, very well done!!

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Flyboy Jim on December 11, 2017, 03:36:53 PM
Good write-up and pictures.  :ThumbsUp: That's an impressive part!

Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on December 11, 2017, 03:50:11 PM
Great to see more progress on this one Todd.

Bill
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 16, 2017, 10:57:12 PM
The Steam Inlet and Soldering it Together


[Edit Dec 17...fix the photo urls]

Today the project goal was to make the steam inlet which sits on top of the rotary valve chamber, and then solder these bits together.

The steam inlet was pretty simple.   The valve chamber had to have its base machined as a curve to fit the cylinder in the last post, and this part was similar in that it needs to sit on the curved top of the valve chamber.   I made the valve chamber with an 11/32" radius per the plan, so this was a matter of starting with brass rod and using the boring bar to machine a match.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WEMcTMgNITDDcHcnZrjI-g1wPLeg7ChU7ecEu-krubh1tUSoA0Iv-0HqrL1fcQXs1PBwSwAsIBv687PC3G-DW-uTFQt_npaNk70rkD97azgXLYdqNgYwBO35m-jOHvbRIm6OoQvM9VWkW_h7KGr7HDvHSarcv6B54jpBpV6YDEbvamGzC9no8SE7ZgPe6lyaYnXsUhE-PcymOqat-UAe32bovX7iVFed6sV5WMxAo6-pafI-yy4MgEMas6dZlm3a85Wn0xxueon1mxN_i4YfbWORi106cTEZ2RHrM7_wMZTVqWVdLtoPUt1EnOl9EW9moFG1m0Zad04ZLr5zSPhYtN7rSI1N_YKjeSmKqQdNhmMcbcJLRwqkZ41W5yAA8ptpMZouH8XlgfbCDqdOl5w2gqoeFKuTlyYeo5TvQQ3QD3m96YQLR0y5A9u0udEgIPucBBQ7yIMeeffHFiClEjd63-kA6z2GJE4tJm4LZ1yCqg24xAbDHLKYnX6VSB1tiKgP8YsrtqOdMHrqySTW8uL0x-OCnIe-EsWGdRLgKLIq4h67Og8TCVfjTm5ABPzCxU5OH6dnIYqhIoGthClnKbrHaK_gtTWNa3jsNIIGbC4GeIJtJ7TxOB8URrs1pAcDjHl61YKx5yN9JbOS0tmY0czLaRts3sX4m2-pKznB=w1068-h534-no)

This was straightforward since I had done the similar operation a few days ago.  The bit of rod I had was oversize, so I took it to the lathe to turn it down to 11/16" as called for by the print.  Now this diameter is purely cosmetic, but I turned it accurately so I could use it in a collet to work the other end.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DKy-i1JFjqrshXJkbkTLZbSbpsNk136I6M5_HaJNU0FxVdM-XemgYGlLX1XPoeG0gIYcreV_T8sy5v1hB4eXWmyGCIs9lPrQLVrlkBsg8gWZdgnfAE5TeguLWoRrBsBvrM0Y4Sbpf3O3USE-qzfaAxsM8KJKs3dTcayskxeQvo-knDR_fMlkeig0ZWmhoSmVZRpV9YlvLijkyOKOCel4rKHVUq9ZxNc-wZq4DRB-wPTFElSlVaABwrVo44F_peHFjqnDtq2OvON3QviY15tMxgHQBN1ya7KEf149nldd1xHSErkVPNhTjVCIqZ2cEwaEtgQ7lgHdhHjQMgONL9LYD_S2gg6lGHEXgdWaWS6NX4VI5GFJcZ3L0f1SyfRLQa7BmvK4KCdhFVQgKxuvEfysjYsHJ-z1D2viFyp2Vj_ompwAbV2PeQRKk0U4s5S9SG7ANOERlNKL1bXWa6E6mYtpb49BgOa_UWHEAN5CSixTsjuY_SRAdawFxiwjCOkRhL6lsp0X0XF3f8UtQWN08MCkzsb5nSP8rPRKAtqjll1KNntHnin4NeBx49x_ttw9ozKhUOJYTrAWrUQXEMfv8z34cRA9gWXcg96dqAu0tcRPR7kK9ws9Svj7pMmtENFocdJ3tFJ7uprstvphs83H0icd-CIQ5IhW9QBZ3JJV=w1068-h534-no)

Here I've flipped the steam inlet around and put in a smaller collet and have already parted it off slightly overly long.  I thought it best to drill the 1/4" steam port from this end so I didn't have to deal with a curve causing centering issues.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qDtICBu3uxZ5t8GweA85LK039cbKmJn1iAzhEJlMlpVFPd_21Yfx-72_2lTE7h_aydhTdS5gIY0raRVLFOOR6TTnu1ce5qAKSSzD_9185sE4IK01HbVwlbTjcxA-3cwIdHItlTOFvFgfz1R5ekEXiyj1ohj1b6sM74ejpCeOHofFXWlqErCgyBfuTinovLSKhqFxp2IvjRyEOqHdDz5Z4ABlXhPZ6AZe5OtYXQkG5eWbFWo2eGMl6mbaxlbXE0JcXRO6QpVhVR61Rn4HrDjP6-OBEtbRjaXQelGUHpQTQu1w96yj0S2RbvO6mwxc1yfV9Grw8eNEjdMKPh9-YVRjp_Uz310BvW1_zBlfUdCD5wu6QSsGmvSx8gryAEOxvx8nk4OjQ6N89jDJLvfeyd4itHWl-lNySbw_oWIuOZReGAEnfvnhsCSqM_LapIqnVj8fwgU4Pek8ebLebznY-R3zV7BClqweOcHUPMPQW3z-a6EF9UG2F6LTQm2I2JZurkYk5mF-IhIRkUypCa1d6ywgFbw8CsMk2UpLL7hMtF1hxUum7_UcK_CFicMPGSK0ZLAhx0JY2yfGQtEnGZ8vz91_WX9ql9CXuNnDgmP8auJ2URLPw0T9pqsaxU2xbMCStyXQJLTpr93NeL4hXNcZsvXUi0ljErcJfmMF3XzV=w1068-h534-no)

Here's what the steam inlet looks like sitting on top of the valve chamber.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jWzB146dJLzF-KykSW2mpHTBBbbz5ubBLAJD5dLGNqNZPlw84RI_m3RztYbgvIqusUaIil25SW9KWVUW9dsK_RcWh0yu91-4mSxsN2HPIwx_fi6_h8T8bt39jqy_ZTOMUTOA2D2fevCbOUZgSOe_9rRObFdFZBjyRzEjFxGNZD5ic4SmztF1aPGrKkfgYwQVZVnLg0DCe5YXVG1LMIMSc4xfDtDqfzLbTLO6L_QD8QkZ4-TyAfaqnWeZOGx0d7ssNYFt2L7OW1mmrWqRmFtnj5_8FSu6CeLRvoQA83y3kzXHxIHXWOlx1V3ZpRYbV_FoKKIrP1VXAQaIYueZpA77GE--lcyRuPpAQwDRT6wTkoMiRfXa0s2q5pBHHlThpRorlFvWb2QTcbBrrF_Z9esvK-Ko42pbfKhvgupgNQYLI9VPi6QRJ0rSxomiV9XRkxG463_Y-jtvkitSG4HhRnncIEjur7TyiUTim3rChj5nR6xpo91uZ8EYfthTCKXpI5CWgQGr5B-cKBijyPQlQXUoatxCPxNYB1XJF5wcLL-kZJT8GpvoUHfg4qAOowFSlhy9SlDyLZp5A_3hejhoOp9yCKww0rjWwRdo_5SS6zDWhGEBmEgY92mYQr_k_VyIPC0huMfRSkXnP7cLIFNttFDSHLl-JEdkZf3CEVyq=w1068-h534-no)

Here's my soldering setup.   I had to fiddle with the exhaust port which is being braced against the side of the cylinder with an old machinist's square.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZD3eSRbdIRzwLyvkU8QDQ8ZpNWbFow-RVbTyU3oMnAhkABrH-SU8AuD5y4iMCW8fxaXO1Oj6EzBPKSPaI6ZdvkCLAJ8bB98jnerje5Q0IzIdlukPVzeK3OkB58V65zcy_Aq5yTWw-e4l-yVyc3KYC8AgNf2yZ6HtyxcORaBRrnBAe5x_51u-ABhsNfoBKiBsWB1pmUoI4ytgnmV_M1FknyQXmaSpH0f0BKTdeSx9HZjkOP8jkBqvnojESCLJh92800uCSLvn54PQVE7M90hAB1IdgxOeZm86NJ7ys338mrkX6SUXb6s5PQjsDvCzsEOUw1jd8DyH3RaCXK1f3Dhzi0x7IhYywGQZ-cP7En_XZYy6_WMEG8n8by_A2Krsza2OJtiUSPobTO5oVHSYrRl0Sb42hRYgiuYW3SDqBCvxEbRt8nf2914qk34dGYj2glBTCAYkx02GsVveA0fXsXvPiloiQZK0Sl5oRKRAn3Cp596PKxr8nK2upJvrcJHIkvJF8x5SH6swBtRch4Nx_gttCXS4cACxKmyXSOskonpau9t5sipk-rJHxvg-zbwbUEbjSOtfgDtQZHbO1cz0WlIwvpvD0EmrMquqtecBIv_twF0q3anqVn15vAVqMzN-jmuSNSAmflc1db8-mhHlwDhwjajDs-MInELWWZn7=w1068-h534-no)

I squashed some bits of solder to fit along the inner surfaces under the valve chamber so these spaces would seal up.  I figured that if I fed gobs of solder in there to do this, I'd most likely seal up all the ports.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_35ceCM1axK5U9v7_dACOf6uADxxswJ4IS_pRXO_ONHG4zOjpGeqN2bg_bE9gSGjyaaNl-SudfaNDpWDIntD0JEGgBq6RDUZAeoBi1WhjhlDXhHbYI2UIvnyRLhoGOFjjixQO4ySmU-YF2KoHx3RgOKwU7hrnAZuTxksl2HLkBdR4BDRehZbCmPlyrtMxUy8JUJVJ5_vKtFbL7u_T1korh4gOvhqYm2LpXGUfETx2Hejwp4v11z1M7BxH7wNemQqzy7dizdiBM9tRceGEL41xVWRt3Xg8VsZpsZa8VIVxbF7XgKXcOZKoCTG3Nm5D_MqC5WzqU7PIl8lxKZ_IotBWuIlzNFnkBJqXjPtismOsoR1aeEl2dG2NUbFsNFYGCKJ8w_swPcYtvLVZDHDNHg7eQMy3Kj1qW7aN_cBrt_iA9UR8UYIyA7Un__x2y5A4QEwnz2TCf09pMy3kaILH6LDMLa7dGJfDSY0sK_ufURv6rq_R_yJmAhODmVHwYDlBgRTTrBBERhy2OKN3CwAzOfh45cLzepuL_d2DUkdP0wsFvtW-eLu8FDHnpkW2K_mds9QA0u765n8ibKn9C4YlrCOWGU9m5v39zBbWw5P3J91-sAP0ESnQBx9z4GBYh7ne1ClzhU9Bi_WlvDlLKetH3NO7z74v0UBmyZhBlsh=w1068-h534-no)

Ok, my soldering skills aren't so hot  :o ... but it all stuck together good.  I used Stay-Brite soft solder for this job.  I was having trouble with the steam inlet port and perhaps overheated the flux.  You can see a gap that looks bigger than it was.  I decided to stop messing with it and resort to JB Weld for sealing up any remaining bits which turned out to be only in the inlet and outlet, but not in the valve chamber itself.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2r5ZBPrZK2q2D8CenXCX99pfuUhcasCOcqAygKcJeUWrFJi1q66rJOCwr7ky442WXDz4lECAk2-VwijVeqJFX4uiUXy7ZguZYX-3l0rc_Enj5oT6qCFcKev3w5gFXUJW2LzwclCePu274K5rEaLnfdeG0YRbYEmnWVMJroTE9nvQN_OvOlO_SCJ7RB_7ibgcu76puqjSJgVLDMOi5R4MORk-lOEhNbC449LBjO02haS_cNz-6JQ2m_fyYpa1TGiz6IA-257X42FXvrniTtCKPxiC_MjRjtwGp4mg48K3bH6FBNtNReyrqKdmB8M7wVIwCanjrMuz1OU7dASAvk7OKdFBHa2bstpE8Q6OD07dvD891GEmgvMw5x45_TrurOFxYA_dFOxFBaebPlJPEAwwrLzC7sk4mE7nhCTqOGVQjShQm4_5htICWjTX9_9rmxjiss5VFb7KQliJLktw7lT7PlA8Zumf4-D528Hk4mgzWqrymUIvm6IIeNmYGPX0hdiUyGaBep2H-_7Q-wQ6NdXYVIq69lRGMpJpKNnhC5Z7whLnDlqI57_uOibM0x6cUxoV7cn_YNR-xSNGTAblJA2iidBroR4t7gO6bB0YSl8Je0xF9Dshh7E1gifRgENw333DzBRuLyAa_Ua8uZSJVijCvXY9Lphbu7JCo9tP=w1068-h534-no)

And finally, here it is after a little bit of cleanup.   Everything stayed aligned pretty well, except the steam inlet tilted ever so slightly to the back of the cylinder (which is in view in this photo).  I had left about 0.050" extra material on top, so I'll skim it off to level it perfectly when I drill the bolt holes for the governor. 

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xQiQoFQa_KrE_OQ7dC1nH1j8QIglykh6E5fxkGxSYhS7G23zmQTn1DLn7o9uEMp03NwSNgCAeVtUATowEskoD6luQgLpAcQecPscMF9lAq9RmEGCn0YJKVej-acyEDzllRXMLOakpDyCDXMW0y54n6eR9-74c3Sk7B-M1jNUYpjcRuwkB4ir3dC82f7dTBELhqiOrqRA3BV8WxkCZWhvgSV66XmIboKuY9ZDmh2qv5CQCyDZSvY1uZJRbqxWSZ2JUPNf1Z6trLgY5aHBYqFpo5FhqgJaf6C5uBsatwAkZi041coN3Bvr2Lj-AcWOtMR95udpvJ_CmcyEVLJrR6ht-E9Ceie3Ts-YzsUUKkTx7BQhar_erGrhT6RUkTBBrzNN5LZYpihUKhScaq_BTL0m4cGjRncvBR1Pz0yFBmsAevwlF2SeE1xNewz_Q_hyp7mVblI-F9prxCvpjnE9IrJ9NTrdzHvXku_A6QW4hXTeiQ5TvHT9EkuTizPdy8bKFlcaO4FHr6lnKGx7MLZMVVUTXS3ZARuOHZjs9Gui40Llb2SjHy21kRfbBxwLKz7dLGhIy-59UUeetFWGt0DDHDSJRMLWYi2euMv61SjjIa8UODlfRP6V9D6hMSrqcwMDJn7OkUdliii6dSo08Dtou1TZiHXLTOTr9HWE1z1b=w1068-h534-no)

Thankfully, the ports all seem to have remained open.  Hopefully they sealed up between each other, and I'll attempt to test them once I've made the valve.   Next up, after cleaning up my messy solder job, will be the making of the valve sleeve and then the valve itself.  Then I'll put more bits back together and get a full family shot out here.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Kim on December 17, 2017, 12:35:00 AM
Todd, I'm not seeing any pictures for some reason.  Are other people seeing them?
Kim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on December 17, 2017, 04:30:13 AM
Todd, I'm not seeing any pictures for some reason.  Are other people seeing them?
Kim
All showing here, pc and Android tablet
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: fumopuc on December 17, 2017, 05:40:49 AM
Reply #59 does not show any picture here, either at the PC or on the Android tablet.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Steamer5 on December 17, 2017, 07:47:56 AM
Hi Todd,
Sorry can’t see them on my iPad either.... :killcomputer:

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jim Nic on December 17, 2017, 01:02:24 PM
Can't see the pictures on Windows 10 PC and Firefox.
Jim
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on December 17, 2017, 02:04:13 PM
I'm seeing all of them. You guys have content from google blocked somehow?
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on December 17, 2017, 02:14:40 PM
Not seeing them here either, will try another browser.

Bill

Edit: nope not working with IE, or Chrome, or on android either.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 17, 2017, 02:23:39 PM
I've been messing with this a little this morning and I'm a little perplexed, but will keep working on it.

I'm using google photos and am direct linking which isn't documented by google (i.e., this could go "bad" but hopefully not for the same reasons as with PB!).  I'm using a shared album which has worked fine so far, and the new photos from my last post are in that shared album as well.   But for some reason, google is expecting a login for the new photos and that's why they aren't showing up.   So I don't think it is a browser issue.

I'll experiment a little.  Perhaps I need to do something special from now on when I fetch/paste the link in the first place.  I'll update the previous post when I think I have it figured out.

Todd

PS. sigh...maybe I should find a "real" photo hosting service, but I've been really enjoying how trivial the process is to go from photos on my phone to resized photos in the posts.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 17, 2017, 03:17:12 PM
Sorry all, that was my bad.  I fixed up the photo URLs, and yeah the post is so much better with photos! :)

What happened is that for some dumb reason I was cherry picking the photos from my main photo feed in google photos, rather than going into the shared album.  You get very different URLs when you do that (apparently!).   Anyway, I fixed up the prior post so if you go back to page #4 of this thread and hit your reload, you should see them now.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 17, 2017, 03:21:59 PM
Hello Todd, It's been a long time and I had intended to go right through your thread this afternoon to catch up but seeing your latest post I feel that I may be able to help you at last.

I also use and have used Google Photos and (Picasa previously) for many years. Over all I find it very easy to use and easy to embed images in the text.

I think you will find you are possible clicking on 'Copy Link Address when you need Copy Image Address. The album has to be open and the image has to be fully open before the menu containing the latter phrase is opened by right clicking the image. Left click on 'Copy Image Address' then insert as usual by opening the 'insert image' icon above the posting box to implant the  brackets.
 
Cursor in the brackets and right click then click paste.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vP2DoesXZ57y1fTRU3KG8aRV8hfHEBRCxpbA_zf4BGeoHXn_XG6mzyiV1M_HgoLudhECxeybkxY9fbl6_EjcPotAYhaVKBWGNXab_EeuP2cubfiFdD8qmN9ao0r6RjZumcyuVC0oNqDGejab-kBGEUn-88Ylzi5y0KIxuVt1KxgCG-fJr0MsZ2oYj10ivu6kIY0fCEIIokHB4FRxrQHSTZ5o2Mr-hEWxlzjBue5qHAdiAF7WjOo_vIfO7zAP25UU6NCxHolQvKWrkjgTHlbTb263KMyNA9LXEySXYMp9rW3TmvbBrAcJLLaP1lo1NKTI8NLqeXjogRzyEOGuiIO3LcAREY5mY78svlghZ3zmwpm-n1fHZ8b06PdHTVfqtis58gBGnTrezkBBo531kZ3Wdc3InntCd1mynWcAdWT39sguqrXpK1f5dtCcAcMoycWWiAbkn44ipjB5jaMWy3xBGSfwHi12XTO546odsoM52TSQfA0WZIkquSdyzXgbvJLtTc37spsOlqiBQSkzmu9aydGZDVpQtQjpx-fJxvZYwis4XOoFqCboTFUViaByPY9RlzADNlb387zZxDso2suv850fpDbAUAv14Vkgg0kx-A=w1224-h918-no)

This difference in the two phrases really threw me when the change over to GP from Picasa took place and took a while to realise.

You have to open the album fully then the image fully first

Hope that helps

Kind regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 17, 2017, 03:23:34 PM
Ah too late - well, never mind, the thought was there - now I can visit your thread at leisure  :)

ramon
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on December 17, 2017, 03:26:34 PM
Coming on well Todd, for soft soldering you may find it easier to "Tin" the surfaces first. That is apply a thin coat of solder to each mating face and then once cool assemble with paste flux in all the joints and heat, apply a little more solder if needed.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on December 17, 2017, 03:47:00 PM
That fixed the pictures  ;) Nice looking assembly too Todd.

Bil
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 17, 2017, 04:52:31 PM
Thanks all!

Yeah, I was thinking I must've done something weird to copy  the URL.   It turns out I did get the specific photo (i.e. starting with lh3.googleusercontent.com) but I found you get a different URL depending on what album you use to view it.   Go figure.  I knew something was odd when I first copied the URLs because I had to walk backward through the photos rather than forward as I wrote my post.  The photo feed is in reverse chronological order, and the album is forward.  Hopefully I won't get caught by that one again.

Doh!  I never thought about tinning first.  I do that when soldering wire, but for some odd reason never thought about it here.  Next time.  The little strips placed up front worked well, too.  Maybe I should have done more of that.

I tried to heat from the bigger parts to the smaller, but I think the steam inlet was just so small it cooked up way too fast when I got there.  The solder would melt but roll off (you can see a couple drips on the cylinder), so I suppose the flux burned off.  I picked it off with pliers, scrubbed the hot part the best I could with sandpaper (hot -- but cooled fast) and refluxed, which is why it held at all.  The solder stayed in a molten state at the cylinder so I think it got too dang hot.

I started on the valve chest sleeve but realized it would be very nice to have collet blocks and a spin indexer to cut those slots.  No, I don't really need that stuff, but my wife's looking for me to order some Christmas presents she can give me, so what the heck :).  I'll have to switch to another part for a bit in the interim.  I can't argue with more tools!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 17, 2017, 05:20:39 PM
Hello again Todd - firstly apologies for the cat but I wanted to show just how quick it is to get an image inserted. I thought that was a at least a neutral (or should that be neutered) image  :)

I have a feeling we are doing something different with our album set up as I don't recognise the reverse order you describe. I set my album up then transfer images to it as I progress. It is also easy to re-arrange the order should it be desired and save it.

I have been through your thread and have to say you've made a real nice job so far - I shall look forwards to seeing it run. My version is still on the cards - I have completed all the drawings but when I did the flywheel I thought a day or so later that 'those spokes look a bit on the thin side'  - Turned out I had misread my own drawings  :facepalm: I did come on to post about it but it coincided with that changeover period and all the posts previously made had disappeared. I'm afraid I had little motivation at the time to resurrect it!

However I'm really pleased to see how you have progressed yours and really inspired by it. I still think it's a lovely little engine so all is not lost at this end ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 18, 2017, 03:05:09 PM
Ramon, no problem at all and I appreciate the quick help (and comments, of course!).  I've set my photo album so that it sorts from oldest to newest, and it occurs to me that the default is probably the reverse.  I just find it easier to flip "forward" through the photos, but I do understand why google runs them the other way for the main photo feed.  It would be a lot of paging down to get to the latest.

BTW, here's a link to the entire album:  https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNApvBklzuqq4dqiFSsLFPSvQkJ87Sbd5mB0eEua-aak8kqH_-RMvAliVl_gE-02A?key=eEU0OEVCM2NEZmFka1ZaT3RUd3RyQ216V3E0UnJR   I'll be sure to edit this into the first post when I'm all done.  There isn't much reason to go to the photo album except if google decides to change how they reference photos, in which case this entire thread will be messed up but presumably the album will stay ok.  I take extra photos too, and there could be something useful there for someone building the engine, and also the photos in the album can be viewed at full resolution.

Roughly my process for photos is to take them with my phone as I go, and when I'm done with a part I'll go into the google photos app on the phone (which is Android) and select the photos for the day and hit + to add them to the already existing album.  I usually do this as I'm tidying up the shop a bit and they are all uploaded well before I get to my computer.

On my computer I go into the shared album on the web page (I screwed this step up the other day), and like you say I can right click and "Copy image address" while looking at a specific photo.  I paste to my post, and while the pasted URL is automatically selected, I hit the little forum icon that makes it a URL.  The way I handle image resizing (and I'm sure you do too) is to take advantage of the fact that google can resize images automatically.  The end of the URL has "=w1068-h534-no" which resizes the photo to 1068x534 as your web browser fetches it.  Someone mentioned a while back that the photo viewer (web page) updates this part of the URL when you resize the window, which I initially thought was crazy but it's true!  The net is that you size the google photos window to the size you want the photo to be, and magically the URL you copy will be correct!  I usually have to tweak the window size a few times to get something reasonable, but then I tend to leave it there for the week to avoid that hassle any further.

Anyway, that's how I handle my photos.

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 18, 2017, 03:41:51 PM
The Crank Disc


I decided to make the crank disc today.  This is a bit bigger than 1.5 inches in diameter and 0.25 inch thick.  It has a 0.25 hole to fit the crankshaft (press fit or locktite), and similarly a 0.25 hole offset 0.562 from the center for the crank pin.

I had some brass for this disc, but decided instead to go with 1018 cold rolled steel which I had in 2 inch diameter bar.  So in the chuck it went and I turned it down to the final diameter.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dUX6cK_NEcEaYpAahFYmojtjp0Y48C21FeD4rZRUIP39rzfdSR6Sfxf6py-yJxYh5XNV4O_h_j8gD1gLbW-ar0-JvbKbjKRIreQ5cRm762l02ZMaqaEokshbuCBbFBFYbK6qov0dotz6EFtuD26JYTUEHqtjkZA_lMW08rJ-WVGZJXyt4qMxZqGUq68vqe3KBO1DPuv5A10BIOWOMSj72TvqUucel7-aQz3QmI5KK5LxHrzn4gM2x38GKNR9Hf_gtCkiX4NQNHnnwAV5tXBO-OZgAf8K0ODHMvilygfHqMjSl8Pu7NaFFeaZZiPlvKeRfxMowzuGgUti_GOWNt0bzFLv95zPWagb94txp37qLkN6rsKZhfiKoHkNPIZy_YfiX1v3xgqEg-TKg3QX0-i6YdMP55XuhdRm_kttL6flcbXSOxGwBre4xoPQCJbM5NZgOTfbmPrwgNWe27OBU5dBvOWq8dOTDQ6UQC5ZBM7yx5z4Xs21TIEqnzBu99io9URxUKeqzPmupms-zyzNWsc9Xg7NKhK2J2goefr7s8Z3VN4eQP8gW4Qby2Qr7-83ZXNYMo-xYo6XV3A_ZcD0fpUugxhi2bwpQdcOdGbYsqaDsffyzeP6RA2bFiEyOov1pBiu7lGCv27o4vU4u9x-pqqUui_Uq8nW9hTsS0eF=w1068-h534-no)

Next I drilled and reamed for the shaft so it stays concentric.  I don't want this disc to look all wobbly :)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5HWgtjZzljOqcMdiQ4UjpU8a18PgvuR2Ot48s63l9ZbDh191TqODcm_iajN_Ar3YmucA3__mS0NqqFYmt4ed7Ykh5xNARR9VkERUMlOjJmwXJVF1BipPAIUKR3wuTbhMFG0ThWhcVcwR9ZY1V6WQRgnYwaqADkNs-982wBcaH6IDR8RODp_i5uVSKgAaw3eVkbEVRaR1RdlufYP_bD_WjpRbIM9rAWXZG5iOSqp2jprnzoqoZ9rPhvjU3n0OrDGChtg2qGN8dvQZ6yBseJwV36kFRflx4kEuGTazjA3ljSkB2EMUDOGvftkwyVNqOJ5qksjGhMGliL2Es40uHdl_UTkbCJr61t-LQHE1lfyqz1ki6Ovzth8ZDw1fNnOFuajfGoMHTH_aLAZSeJXEAxxrXNdXSmbgCHr7W5pFZsvMThZTpE9Zn3QFwkKzgCMWZLD8JnGUu_N2iiLJ1n6IcKZUhxbPuOLEmgw64msPV-ppUHptWmAEGvjhJ-hq9IL5FwxybWP02jttlPl7ajONFCQoI8urB7n4M87OZoiG5Qn9EF5fhDXd1336LeOb1DolZJgQPGxdF2zINxsp4_3LdPxc20nR1EgXqneSLODeYof-xgJCJ-9TJFhrcYqfU4S73ir9VfWOYoDf4UJ6o29ft2ZWvSYmfXKjcEXSqq9A=w1068-h534-no)

I'm getting better at parting off on the lathe, but didn't want to press my luck so I went with the bandsaw this time.  This cheapo bandsaw has been an arm-saver!  Also, I had made a plate for mounting holding fixtures for the saw a few months ago and I find I use it for nearly every cut.  I have a drill vise that mounts on it also (vertically) which is great for holding small parts.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6u9vraxoCGurMPiHttjzTK78YOL_OmakIhUZVylFYffMfT921mVXkirIfZ5lcagSybri6ueRnHGmxCxFRCv1i09GZBmSivlnhE0BnYv7lsNk52CHsq9p0QPeyvyCVMMbfcObFm0SFwCuLsmhrn6KImlOb-E9_R6ZHVhqXpPi-wlkC8Q9HLf5j4zD5nRKA_EMRP6ACwTxaq43FkBgdzuuyAmqdhY_QQfk2--oS9sMJCXyjvYdFntql0jEZ4LvR7xh5EvFUtYZbBXU_tW8hub4k9oShzlrBlQbgDR5omdtDlad6g2xV3pyTjyTzcNYdjv7vocXTFq9sFsIdjwEzYAcq3CgDP1d3p1EsIW2a8n_3dZtBjd7E6H0c0c2e-6jA5fU1Z0pPS68Aj_yHzuIiFp3hmZx1UyMVy9m93-KxK2ceVXthrOdkbhEF6Ry3Joh9FezpTox6qYnmBOoeQbZZba-QviGF6wnoyG6H9Sgyx9NjLszse5Z_pfPUugDGriiXIx255DNI35bK2tgGWHLddo-pYBXPH7Uj-a4j31Y7jvOWwDKTLsrmOjgrTFf7z7dSuBiyFvG4FQLdiemS0RETLWhidJhTu6egymEuA6BQWgep9Ev0iqgk-VmOYWQtidCSm4yWeVZgAgAq8FvynpZt6M-NQHqDcWd3UldMAM7=w1068-h534-no)

Next I had to clean up the bandsaw side.  This facing head is seeing a lot of work, too.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oe5M8MTLPFrk9RpoSt93l0vsQN0BO5MxrpMcwcSiJQYGPG-34DYpHH3vJbdi_Oz_AkA83zAueUqHBxofVcKT3HLTojn1Q2ldolVizQ-09xd7ePjmuBPtAjjhOMkucHUB8LcqFzvFPMFEEc3DofR-o2NFWgojW2l3o91F9uOKLhOeUAldvLary2ObRbhpulG0sOXHsSrMFYPInWPTK9_IjluQDKV6Py0YFsAK3exWzCCUtLIqzGRWgqJrKAsKycEkP9UMxBwl6escaHTuWM4WmZ1ty9OOYUdhA6o44_bslqXvRQv9X4pRR39THMWXqMOVy8d4V2YwopOk0ZxGQVIrgkk9YqKuW8TtNlGZYAQYS_5VCCXerE8BJy9-IaVtemboZ8frO-oH6fZgRicmQnY_SF532UztrdTD9nz6uNz9uOIClJqDZfjgAMN1rmIOe_0FyBPzldzW-2Oer8JAgXY7B8U9nLTq5BaJ5QpEIwThQyeOVqr0AC0o7KoTP9xR5y4DX7jG1dPI-DzleA8JULqOPmXLNUjPfdi6zP98qIHov0WQf0VygdujxWqUDm1C4G3NCvT2PXP8-t1C32unS8r0BLOrKhygdq7RzPZP-GERMsJqZmsjbxH_hSAISl-8F2q-v1qdIxL6jNQx6R1rwq7GmTZWmmyXEoAPVErQ=w1068-h534-no)

Next, I setup my RT.  I happened to have a morse taper plug I had made for flywheel use that has a 1/4 inch pin and this was wonderful for holding the disc onto the center of the table.  I drilled and reamed for the 1/4 inch crank pin hole.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NFVSfDXvixMps-fNHvjDje6PqwU-zoBNL5PiCgCO-zlWnNmGkItAP7ScDvPByXMjm8nO2JdsFOYa9DipSlVOsqVVqFcM85fVsUHsjnkr0w0aiJfO30lMrM9v2ydnqIDFCgLkHaAQFjDI7nyIR4OvMu8l7Ry1OMH4KZyezo8K0yeIjYpfZciZ2ku1armbXqfSOH2xF_5-z1ICwxqsYDFMl8hXf7ZK4AcEil4Pq_Br7bXiAtRown_uar2uEfVbYDYXE_bqOGfhr7V2D2rX1EQkSmlsPMlctMYFEKHtZnyR8mY1xYCjL-pRNGoDsSUT29j9vgvhNpjxJyaraWj0_Gm6OW8jIT8v34FixFWFV7UeLwwJz4iNrJ_n-iQMuyJzh521GMKCNJiiVdWNhYqZ4OpT2tPiRVIelrpxc60MHJOoK8qCtOWwV1nHLXVwwnP1DwT03VSnPsqoZEf_GkKPillSFNX2gMm93SmMVMJeSNWSU2F47-m8Ncd_d3cxdx0PAc6aJUXmbCNtsS5ld4ndqgsj3-w-gTsLO6ywNW_3UKnThM7-7qWMhVihDIvCcGBoIG9QazXo570xiztwJDuz-0RYdvrcwDS0XUGAZUNKvq0y6hsxyDbsXQhCrI_RJZ_-2TSVL0-p4c892ZulDmv7WSX74Mn2RUZ40xCX2slx=w1068-h534-no)

Now the book recommends to carve a 1/16 inch deep recess on one side of the crank to greatly add to the appearance.  I could see from the print what was suggested, but there were no dimensions.  Obviously I was supposed to be "artistic" on this :).  I happen to be learning how to use Fusion 360 (Lars Christensen's youtube channel is great for this!), so after doodling on paper for a bit I decided to hit my computer and make a sketch.  Here it is...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lDgttJ4Gtl4twGga3R1QYEbWAV75FXRdtxf5eJ3mAKk6yOWVjoFXRwwpd9Xmxaw2eMGPDtU74AE0xWm5IY0G1Y_qa_agyWEZPWkSv8Q3Da39ahzt3EbwLi0__YvYtZcFjhJKxrnuq7imuby6-dfOqpTGmEX2PHvWtwg7WQDkPaeJTGp7uG31X6Jg8GO2iLo-ZPUVwhugqPlcnW9Kh6Co9GghSPvbHlvpwmDXBCcrcB24x20QR2K8b9aXgPrq3UTIMuzicOzXvxppXCdcUExwoTIvtcYkwlw-hHHGHP5w0BM75dV7Ct0gbbjxfYwcA2uByVfvOkT94P2wabMJ12cIEEsk8N8HXUp_vEWf-3HLk_9pCRcaYDvhdi7Kv0FcpuoqQwVt2cWL0jlp-Ot1-7BafB095lM2KZ5iJF23Fg-tl7_FxtBiEydofl-pIRSrZBF4GCIQA06nL2AmEoY9ihcObupjZYgx34ShK7Rlkyr4AYB-i7Ii9_IrXsXbzUzomezmnLa8ojf_dFHIQwbWn33_yj_xlOCVZIdMoyo23c49zMqCugFYawirPla1L5XrQgF9POukXquG3iONySL_RndLaUhhzqi5YGWyAAM7S6mjijKkTbw6qqIEMcSxe2eAzvyXTFoEfAYfZ27cvckIQLy4bhRqXDwRGJnei27Y=w887-h709-no)

Ok, I know that sketch is busy, but it told me what I needed to know.  In particular (and not shown in the photo I posted) I figured out offsets and angles.  In the next photo I'm starting with a 1/8 inch end mill to form the center hub.  I had to go with a tiny 1/8 inch because that was the space I had.  As you can see I'm right smack in the middle between the two holes in the part.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hnfGtAG6-HIiYbV2lt45gkbZWjDjRnbBZ0Vtt51jMnNk4Kj4WjeH_42ZzrZv_uWi8kJfWR7P3J_i_rrvsCY17VSPmJSzJPdFut_upV7iCaaBRjk0-fSIyq4omM9byxF_hukVljbg_MkSl8tUWuYYcVFnl8IaJ0gmcggYWAjMbo-p2G4xfR7MOqMDTNG53D32Px6zmipWHHX_46-UtCokT0lG59WTjUaCNKcs1tNawEITOY7ugHLX2xRbdTVvj7Nf7MYyH8cfpn67U1ddyvOherXZL3WFIYxZSJD8A_QK4MTTwxfyxbiqgg5Pix6Va7wyVrkNSDzQFBC1Wugy4hdtJA5O9yIGmlQIb2mu4L_gIzF85DGsXmUatFAKAxKC8x1HWFNr7CA4XDawSYn124HFr25V1K_7jReu8syMhlEGE_7k7UeZSKJPOR_SUyLZU1qd7fXG0Xl94MiaRmxjH6mtjs4A9VIDOqFuky34PP8vB_TbCmI0_T1N_3M89zT2SiVcwxnvY2zAgtFpaNePqjLcnn-G61QF3KNrdyf_V-EH--mBPibFdvIL4nHQRWpz4hUAitz0hwmiIhL8LdyMGNtA20sFxlUwYyw4j7jnJg3pmQYXgr9kKB4rs2SBIi-pcCFXSTVXv2ugLgZ1bEhDP9S_BcvYJQaLp083Xubj=w1068-h534-no)

Next I switched to a more "beefy" 3/16 inch end mill and am sweeping out the outer part of the cut.  I had to start and end 32 degrees from the centerline between the holes.  This is the angle I got from my fusion 360 sketch.  It was 74 cranks around.  I know because I made a few passes to get to depth!  :o

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N9jLR65uOL6QPbNHBFTStwkGvdimIDaRn1WNBDRBZlgbxAMKXNFCmobXLPHnQdhKeP054VNO1__39sDc2VJl-4j6xm_deIkMEJFGJ_7Wl-L9RDMEWXojUQJmq4gy81FoYg4AapByxkeKdPr_12bbK58cPlfBYrUbzDQJaUG5YCo74c_BB_xY3E3QV1s1jt81bcFpIH3xQSniax6lWdjHyw5cSjz3zYtCouestBczhRAbiUwYFdQ5JVrtNDqf8QGt4p-j6KZ_Cb7WdUx2zGzhMUWi-Io6X0K_0nIvcnykKqayE38KVE29pXvitPDQRRS1gvECcwHhzKDl3VQzCl91Q_QFBwBWS-xCSfVpew64yZ85z9RGqEnHhQfIsMOHUspNUyGRbZCeiChEmtdpfFE4E5vW71kPd_iZ0iH2x-Sx8AGZEG2nuBOCDYyPqbx8JkwQTmb6NTboI4uSfwb-PiYe5flZSJi70hfqm3mqwc0svyMr6RggJYkfb0vEM6Jp3lgG81uE9otw1_CdMNjfRrjO26BbZ4ZbIsRtka_4QzkhEF6zCDO--vinaiJI4sYCKmQ0kIUgad6j8LYdsYNES_6Ucscs_tpHlb3VAgf2DszrRkiqGwkL0SckFshTentAuDevfhEXq0AkE8tK57QGzhy4EGaO-pMAZWoMzn4L=w1068-h534-no)

Once I got to full depth, I was able to move the cutter in X toward the center to take out the rest of the material.  This took a few passes in X.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZnOdVcTSwvZk-e4Lw6PLs0ecN7E2jSXjKef5O0KLBw9JDN8TZEoWxWsvjUPZXR4HUFGT_S6qdoalOmc-KHvJyqIoATXCBvdaALppL0DW62hJxefxqbx_ajgGk3O-HxTA775MiMTSvj96YR_WrmjNXAewVr7EczbisIwwPmIKC4nXWSgLMaPI3uPlJWEhlcHtLvfKoAdI0hCSgr9uPsxcD3yf6gxCbL-giZo7wU6QTK_-LQwRMoVGc4kH0lQs6b4uKeC6vU0IMguitcteoiKHUVvU4qiYj31RwT54OGS8Iy8ElY55_3McusMkrXOuV8CyTK_jKDBHZE2_UcenxlpxmYjjv46ouTtOlMIwAmNIO4GiPspPZaT7Uyeu2dL0NfYLLidb214H3cGEXUXFrwKbBbp32YyaaHxQJl1IQfVL2Nqwtx80ooC9Dq3VxhUlD5q5ctreXiRWI2AC5u1vwzsR8Xio1gAoQE-D2u4ac_YKsFTafY4C79B0MmYXrhZNErG-lspPrA4kUuEWHCj6JDqQ_UeqWhK25F9fhgUPhkQC17sfXH76qEnV1Azi6iqgyV0MRgBNjCP3Z9lQbLHac0P-xxksCG_BGFBYxjEAAKmqSIW4KzyWt9cRorDPRpcEP2KVCYvGM7dpY52DBimkgBGaYFnUvNH8Dwfnlygy=w1068-h534-no)

Now the middle was mostly carved out.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/csY62i9OkA-3j5Y-NzPB-YqgTxh0hyq14qTfJJVw2qDxcywsaxwVfrfBZKfNJRr7mQogLvI6HGQdCA_OgToxX2jh1NNWrQRxUCZLILkwJe5mLpF3qYtLqcfrBD7_3QErQDvjpCIkycI9RCmrL-A_uPY2ob3BOy7-eR8UyOflgg8MbrBiSROr6riD000wrQRQj3Gx_BCSnwoFhjsSNcykt2XXCRIQ52V7v0Sl0vNAeqY4NmYvX1B3TghjylsA7D_sKffU8pi8ezi1hu4JzqSmw_dcGSMnRKSXKZsSSQlrXyVDD-pZYYk2DKS9mcFB_2cBIYahXVSJkNViKCu2V8RNEcAAdOFRpXOyI_3F3-U5Ow4Qj3F7qHbKN2cHPOlAY3kloTpzoDy69Guqbv6RYWxByiqUM6omos0h6iSwhu2QEgak7S2eBnXre5YQU3s9A7DJ9S-kQB8TfR_gQAtueWV7sxFni9BCURXWoOivl2gl_Uza1oendOUPjkX80S4xoNk8ptGmeSOpfqZxXExmLJ1gqO6FGaTEaSlTvR0WtTAr13F_q-N6AiI_B8BjOq5wlNlhb36PbCSBxRK0TYEhns7DX9yJ20zacQnP_zKu2QkqhaHYLI5QEsh1GXAUK1PS7cRj0egf-sskwcNLvHIlf_fDYB7HmKj_fWQIbuJB=w1068-h534-no)

Next I unclamped the disc, positioned my RT center pin on the crank pin location, and here I've dialed over in X and using a 1/4 inch rod in the mill head to get the part aligned along the X axis for clamping.  I really didn't need to do this as I eventually decided to just "wing it" for the angles for the cut around the crank pin.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x-0oGit24RsdPXBSsiiJ97_DBvc6TfbSNvOnwDEv5Pqq16GNGejUmG3bebl24-nUckG27CZvki46r81tycvUihsP5dRgUOWLNWz2cf0vhndk1P0dCV-7jO5bepA6_aI_CHJMeFqBJBFhV7wW8rBpz9EzhdsgzCeguAu0ffI2WT8nyN4t2_yhiWJEN3zU9Odhyu_3ETqkAiePTXmZ91JPvLTIgrta7HTlfEBXjMiFnsJ9eO5qsMTi9msU5dTcOq-xjAKYcoT-M1Bhk0lUxvUqtAIJv9XUl47-r6CEUfOkGKlBtSw8spXDfJx4WnMTyU5KK1wObgkevhKrUteTMPdVqq47yPbXIAk0odwrMWV-OqEHMk-P9JrhSYOIzybMAOhcj5zZuNkA8RhcEuBjU4UNC--9COIHbbQxYVc3v7weMFOZAfdlgD6JwTED8UGVSgQUiLCtfWHSMd6Gj1WMJ_ne9x2BBfvjvRNOqlQ4xKbcdQdWslj7qNLrRai-Ds9-Oo8xyTJ1Z9MU8l3Xc3uNsAp2COnXU71QywcXvx3w3xoacgi0gjghhs5cdNMFE_9JiTRZQpWZf9FQoUgvT-oSIODtmxQ-nlOYl-KewOfNG_WbIdH7Hra-x7AL6gYmYyEqMQ3ygWXuMQIUArS2D4dNNuEpW1N5zDE-pDD3btkX=w1068-h534-no)

Perhaps this next photo is more clear about what I'm doing.   The disc is rotating now around the crank pin hole and I'm cleaning up that edge.  This operation ended up going from -56 to +56 degrees.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6tygYO53Z_MF7SD0Wr9TLirTGPK6Y_tdhlQDqMef-9ahq6oeC-zxxl0W6RqjvRVpipa0u7PQD5fsiYlhy8xvGAP6gOfU1DTKQZ8EaiWLA6id9_Th885sWuAxbOjMIr2xIhggerIKzqXqkaIEiuDJpYL2sm2DVOD4TO4antr2TmJB9ZYbgE7386C2YVZQEP5Ll3QPx2GFeXnOxZtPJybH2c5k-x528QJdh-iUAuM3ckHn8DCLbKO2ktYkWoQM9JtkSiSmhCe9UqYQu08yCKyvZ8dmLPwUleOLoeP7b0XUWiWWmR191R9X62E4Cs5GtjUaySf_hT3DE9Nk46DKjCnaj21D8n0bhPDxACdStxyfYH204G1TC1n9tviPOkqTnaqTUUuLx8y8zDL-5YfNNmHq-bqBOEBMmKZi7VUH3IawjLZ9V10xHOSGzzySCfVZujJGvVV4MRahGB-Zuj8L-H3moZJxTFU8mXTmbZVrQc5hcFbU9cXZjMiqdDG1J8CV-Ydyt_F7CcbuVWmFcZ9Bc6w5B6IEcmNB6mdrXZJ7iuDZvWtBLi6UAjb4aLtkG_v8uYvh51xfhQVGhLZujkv1PZuIyGw2foH9rshG1T0e31g97MU7tE1TuM5gLGJPLirbkuu-nQEGFgz7EeGOMyzQR8ijauaXcW5v8DsnsZk=w1068-h534-no)
And finally, here's the crank disc.  I need to deburr it and clean it up a bit, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/unUfpHT2f_wSyqrLBFI0TIBvm65Fbly-_z3_VfEbuKvLoaxsn39ODW1gpGVc0dGccl0xSpyNsAnBc6i-HQ7vRWfIkDsTcfgMQNArfuSQ32sPsdxXUdWd4Kel_-PFn0x6CfmKaWG3YuObIs9gkjEC7cj4CVSrf-uCi0OxvEhlEfzN30062bFcv8d_-rMlSGGCLKJG_QliEeN7x-S_ML-kSMouNoT7xVg_Wi2KdAApoK1RoCRSw4sMG3N82kr4nGHJmUpWH0ydNoCA1OiIzAWnWixwu-Mexf9wEnmarKNC5BIe6Et-q_lzlHTO0Ty6utjAlYQ-BMUQvk034jSjCEZgxu4xvN5SqvWWTNnuXaZEtNjnwzAFPIlm_kj1wLzpIhMANdhv81E8N6Z33gJb2vD9TrAQ5FGitiZOLZ18juAYy74HoEoVc0hWgCniUTD8qTzgEAK_twkd4X0aM-_fblWvMg1LcK-bUJT2TGvTqCxAaehaxa2-qkVq__9l2n7OOwJMPmsj-ODTP64GhITiQ6AiudC0CWxQWD6hBqWyytR_Yix7gSRQ6j2tMaEscQx-ADfnM60VTyrpJkdYf_Nl_AcUIIt00AsYZJUiVp26rqAw3a2gD_XFtK-q9gmmmK4Ur4iRMNFZsqk5LIh8dEcdlvsNSncOgBREmKJio6_z=w1068-h534-no)

Next I'll probably make the crank pin, eccentric, and connecting rod.  Thanks for checking in!

Todd
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on December 19, 2017, 08:23:53 AM
That came out well and will add a lot to the look of the engine. A generous coat or two of paint in the recess will form a slight fillet in the internal corners and give that cast look.
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on December 19, 2017, 02:57:12 PM
I like the detail on that disk, definitely worth the extra effort to machine it.  :ThumbsUp:

Bill
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: cwelkie on December 19, 2017, 03:04:04 PM
Another nice part for a what is a very nice build.
Also a good reminder that taking time to draw a part out either on paper or with CAD can help sort out the machining steps.
Charlie
Title: Re: Jesse Livingston Rocking Valve Mill Engine
Post by: tinglett on December 21, 2017, 12:05:54 AM
Crank Pin and Connecting Rod


Since I have the crank disc done, I thought the crank pin and connecting rod would be the next candidates.   The book suggested I might locktite the crank pin, but I thought I'd try to press it and peen if necessary.  This was very straightforward and I'll just let the next three photos speak for themselves....

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UMLyurPUIDcT5t04OYONG1blw03ooRr4b_i_pVkUsNXbLo6bMw1q-Bnq4jSfLUUun8Zh3_c6QHeqnezx3YnjfNHG_jjvWb38Q_6eHtgLbzsI_R5IfAGJB35WmSB0a70TdNLLfnT1aPKDluyL5ujR8FtuROv10sChGBtaw2fkJs7lN_riQFJQ9J10T954JfIfQJfEytccnSVo68oFkL8AAa2zUQqyCk9Qwxwv0MR-OZj9bsnwGxXNwPz7XFpffeFy1TDijKGzC7ryVmv2YCBZ3S1ABVWepSlmNEZSkx2O8c2zXKNHHagJ_SWiAsQM9T_WI-_aQ2awVStmG575CkwFlNPut5ASbyS12ehGLFQDinzMXV8h4i3jsqKUox6Wnpq4DNOTEMjly_7Zq6HgVFV8gKNoGCyD0Rq-h-ahs50xMiEy5H3LtGbojKM7EJnxUZ5ZPDBPPZpLU9-tpHO7hKHiIV3hGRAlj7Iq0y3fN8U1Qu2V9hGzQx19y-de2DslN401NLHMw8rjdYdycNz9PXmCKRCxAqyTGVIqxBRMwV97JM35XUdNz9LDTa7JfK87eHqyQMfc49__LfvTJXk7jEzRlN_DnEyZ3IxrLly12DbO7ZQA9aWO-3osDRfMJ4wB8gqhspPPhmCtbL6tC3WlG2xvZoodMUW00jkplQ=w1068-h534-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wDOpet9F4APzyPu5UdJe5oPBrUDA4kgOd50O5SRAgrwq-KCqDIjCaoKiXel8gSfNGzKOncqnGQMknrO1u9wNmV1byAw9xn4x-9VzVPg-wB-r2Lg3PkuKGNzOdFJ1G013fllVVdpcQg6QkIK2PCm9nIIasBDJUe4_Yo42ij-jAp8fOfM2TejjV8FZqapD6s3PO51PI6_5DuzUUDdXdSFpxwR4BQRZOwOxIwWJV3K_q82m1BSSzK6VvSJj-W0jtH-PzNBEv_hb5nTUZQlwoiIlqzb64jjP8WMyyrebv_sa2kEyAH41dDXaRtvqsyUZcOzKpHYVVNpbN1HMbhyMrU1wLPLkgWh_OQZVIC4NP5g3wUDJqfqD2mVGLHHWIJmK2TXvQbTXk8Q2QYGfL5DAFgO3oVKswAmR-nUK8ulOQfcD-1QkVbp7OvzcD6HlusOvj0W_n6HBc5ZajXwtt1WKTW0S7z7jN37G09syXWvzuzvM3Vw2ds3a9qDwzgNM3WeHHZB79ainCUcAoVxs18hipt2K8NrYdAdol4RwxzwUlSc8ZhWNLmnpUpkrlstsEK4WPUZzxVfxdjYQAEM3TogArH_4DNrFN2qpRyXV32fUMnweFJ8xPcnK9BTFhPkYVRe6bexfGBRBtWLBbWy-_KbowZ-DTSWB1qmV-IxPCA=w1068-h534-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vYtjT1S-ZgJd69NiBjQqlkMoG7qrK16jH9RPZnk0igO6OTeJKuyxgO6i8cTJ_OJy3GKCZ2cNShb03Whf_UNm1eIvee9e-_SO6c1vv4667hEGn_f7TUgvhZ_fDMFxC1o1w0AG4MZyWLDE-cZhmKRG3tFCEUxGge7P7y8JVvI2hopljMT7lTii1visMqSNHfQRseVbfUfd81Eq9mjQIYkqQJcHmiSV0vd856Scc1k1cKa4RguS1AfoS2f772R4C8B3pF24Pq8gzYjzCUhVC2zPvhSn9Ok5Oo6V2Uw1pf8FLhXMpRDlUjV38nDxle2OL0Rtn0fPcu2qeJFp4UM1IIVSIy2gwSj8Zqr1hPMVH6JjdGzNMQKDju2b-uzkCx8lQi3QvOvwrvV_sHKKN0bVefoPB8G1nArsbKQ1tosbut6PmJZI-blWSGzmUroShfDNJIZAvWN3o4MgDuPrcf9n0yahxAmBYGsIeAN9CBSikvYInBL83kgJT4SxXu2kM69gZN7ycvsKFDnPPXdpoPQHwuS8XzAVGtzQt2haBsDHcCBcTwgvCfV5eSERxU_dXfwTLSLx4NcbrkMFqVTHVHZGx36Q7ai3FV5Jlc98h5xlIzXXhYdBtiL9P8x8YFKeZd6xScnbhcX8igyROx7VDtO59kwZ6oyYO5xoJAEPaA=w1068-h534-no)

It didn't take a lot of force to press it in, but it did take a press so I decided not to peen it.  If I find it loosening in the future, I'll peen it later, or maybe add locktite.

On to the connecting rod.  There is a faux bracket on the end of the conrod to make it appear as if it has a split bearing.  I didn't have 1/4 inch square stock for the conrod, but I did have 3/8 x 1/4.  The bracket is machined from the solid, so I took small bit and after a few passes with a 1/4 end mill I had (mostly) my bracket.  The book called for .080 thickness and for some odd reason I thought I had plenty so I just eyeballed the center.  I measured to see where I was at and I had 0.061 on each side!  Well that's pretty cool for eyeballing...but doh a bit thin for .080.  Oh well, I thought it looked mighty fine and went with it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wioRAR6t7c7l05Tpm6Dt5BL-aSfztkSpTq-3BcTWrQ9hJ_KH6Ti0kLXGNGTjBor9U7q1t81eGbt35o84UQrLlhaDqwF5IIbWBFRZWikeAslSVCloGlMUaWTOLn3E5tQ9JIUdQJwNqlsz7p-ANGTQfXwLIWtu1gvHj4u56TXo12SLwKJw7ue9GYIzs0DxY5GXoSo9K4P4zFnBrTk2AnZHyfWiVi-m23ALTEcHdmAvCJGnGV7fpsYyS_G5hnt5JE2u2BIEbq2GFiFmv8MXZLl71XNQ25u_ZBZfhz-0xasz3fTXHm-X7Zng1x9C2lI2yZXOXXv6uLtid1mOlW-GVd7QcSfnBcBKLtCyf10oUvBKbwLbm1YVetESgsdaqUYK7XmtkQf4lmryoiyIeomaHN4nQGDK4JB9WOdIyM4VtBdOtbfKMOqGIKb1fIwIpGKfmvb2-QBkFZFZ_hy24KNcYX9CN-RTdNPS8OSfd-j4exPY9G45peiJi2k-rOlWTV6KvyucDu-QkWA0D5jbsH5SkI3IIFyvY6COqOxUx2GfYxMHXcyhnlfeyk-ieZCb9i3cyCITRgOG3NfebdhKxbtTCWFlpag8FR8odfceAthoDHZGqHVTbv30vkS7qaxk2Poi4FODn4UOnttnL-5sCWh54HfnIHbKi1FD4Q18bQ=w1068-h534-no)

I simply bandsawed it off for now, with the idea that I'd mill off the end thickness when it's screwed onto the conrod.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4DEfZslZ1WZLnkqv7O5ElqqTHTG7nSi5YCOd80lnrONxdexeXBZNuePaku7PwFlyloLmNx7i-QoB6dOAawBphZsBzcYBJg_wPbtRAWpcuyciN4ZLtAdJFYEr1WRE4Hd2qWnVF8fF_cxNXKY0FOv5dzN3x12SE4Fwc-TjQk6rMt0F2ABPM290s8lmTQCu-lPuAiuINJzCtuckVlOYEUJEwlaA1traxcZZXVk4yyhp6Shc1jqAHPe6pNrxW9kdYgi3ALe3EcuxSfleBc9aiqji0qL8U-ht_EQn9nZD7AbD8abtF7hArlntSsoDJQ0WphiNYoJKANtDcY79FndVPSiZDy9UnDx5JvcUmD-jlSlpfczC94boWuuMkcK7jalV1X3eATVwyb_3dnqa2qqvBqthB-LmOgQxLGAHYEHIK739kYkhxt-Mo2Yw89fXaQJbf6vNxHDRcpoww4jKKceeQAg6GlWzmXDHgCpi2nzWQFPnxapouEUS_gRpYt-vFPkLGZ0WfKWCaGD1KvmJy9JiLXwffAS-uUItPjzSgoA2qklHbp5uu4xqpf1eJCe40W0MLOl6fQCXVCrQa1MCnUXvpwyitKOhWVkRa9QgBYYdVPN7HI0m7cDY_BBOltg5sJUQOWy8lQoJok-AHMuHkNM9AUvY2z9rUAzllRIB1w=w1068-h534-no)

I had to machine my 3/8 x 1/4 CRS into 1/4 square for the connecting rod, and then drilled and reamed per the print.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z-6sYwB5wH4k3oA2GdaJpy2RcLFLM7NbBv-Zad8vrH0CdU6mGRK9bWa-zkRsDSCF3j_OQX8dlbJjPaj6Hsf2UcCoN-f4Y864yCuKECJLRfeUaQ5DO34WJaGEzID39GY0oU5sSRV34RnHhAwgr7pp3X6noNUcTVechcr-uFqowALk-lc-hY1Q6D1R_vzeDMV1ArpnO0K_TaPxaxGdij4LaQwrhPpM0DV8Qliy5e62R2iXZb3cIE193ZWro0s8Yl4sv7J1J3ESMpsPL0nEDlCeYSWpp7fahIdr7XCjXeGED6JeWZoKAu6F9g3ZtCUNGMZ52qVysfu5tDhmp2nlY3ufm71BMrf6zzZFoVooSQERXSFBTYF9R2RGALj7wK7izvN7OGClL0F4zxOTpM0Ad4nJzZpYHsvBpqbZ4EfDamGedKw682a_cfsdkhcFTLRqN4sruTe8WkPEl2VZz5N_qEvpe6izhmidNyBTfN3XtwtXXx_CbvbE4B0Scib-kyFJR_F3WXulzV5Qkdhntgv4RkUyYFo1xjhUxtwuw6ie4ER0bc8Qzpkpmyt5W8UBDOTq_YbQrIIhu4_yIyCmjw74Z-TF65HLpVEJGoNYmVwJB-XZsmnFyOWzHvJQj51azc8ueCfaqggeWCvOsPPB0o67_OjqgaL5OTqBjRKy1w=w1068-h534-no)

Now there are tapers all around and I needed to offset the crosshead end of the connecting rod about 0.045, which I did by using a #56 drill bit.  This angle is mostly cosmetic, so long as I don't get too thin.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sAmQ9bKaESnsWSISlOo_L6f6IcXkQvW-Hq0m_2MyQ5s7PFuxQmyVNXxUwVMpnJLfWY-RlspxwKpHIgsN2YtNKpCBKAbep4yesPlSR8tqK9wGuGkPcvv1IfqxRrzAVznFdd_JOkG3At_rtivS_obNv5Gr3yibOktB0cvAqoV_lZ7kvVmgQvXnirbDwK6DAlM2IoNtAUsTz4KbZShzsSYCF0Ct07MU-O9t8pkCjD2QzGKFq6PB65jZ_03dACVDfFVDfrNV3Nc7cjFNt4gEjfjjXq6Ukt-k-uSNpnF-PoFxrgcht3axgvWKxPxAUoQVYEaahglgfgkta8uItY2D_AK1tbClRprr5Y_X52i1ZdIASMsAPxfrJVw7sl7cLdgehUQIZroZ7bL9S2wm2qb67kHHeFzfyXq3nt0Eztqcmd6jKXlavBYIumhEjWmj0d6P8T8-hpe02ZKYXAlSMGuQrhnAd6AaG2kKYuITGRL1SjCytCmyDLL7p8BH--_TBOxzFdWDislZOGUHE_rX-qta8hLCYDTFUWrYL--rawlNe5WnY9k8Rm47mxw89hDI_-xyLDkB4958UTNbICNYap-Hergw3uyrKDg6t1VrHOvhGtKwhDTKqU8m-QytY2CG1Ow0vVmSrFuABXcP8Xgzo2uLiFAFS2JCvcwnzslNPg=w1068-h534-no)

Here it is after tapering both sides.  Note that I left a bit on the end for clamping and to keep measurements the same when I flipped it over.  It was supposed to end up 5/32 inch thick (0.156) and mine was 0.148.  Close enough!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uM-BahWaKWDZXUBZxD7Rva64tjPq2DlIWSdXZEgS0v7TlIwdjJpiN66aQH6p748u1oAzMGyUgtAnPI3yg3VO27U1qJNCSge8OLTIuij1uEtnCiHQgLZWrPogaRSLpdnbUpXq6NqRmNhK9Op33Yjr9p5M4yOjgAucAlqjP_mNNv6Fut_Mnl85mxg-ecN74i0aXJhLby4oz1v7kiLi9iH-E9NfGQq2V3IRc_TTg0IDHrt3CdV0cxlNpgRXElMQozfy6gSzpWmc9-KN5rBG9p4--7PagUvJSo0MCVngkLVflEgiOELTVwC45qHbFvZ2rNU2fhRtauOjJM38Hhhzg6kWD4ya-Q1okAlA9crNFpBf8e9MeRFOlrMuuON9223QnPjP7d8O9eHOVKoZ1DKWqDIXgbn6kHWNOOzRYivWgHpDkneGZwAEOgLC_OD6pYmn21FZ0U3H9omDfVcglQeGAENYC2jVd1SF6pENre5v8S9EWTL_dgZ3dWvc7aRr--gSbYXHUa5BZnhVDGf91Ekce1BkqlgUCkY-uCNOQ2xokzzDiGDoOw_QwDBti-1z3Ju8PRRfbyyxNUDS-mPRY7M01wK-D9d4WtJeahGQXsnu133kJjXvSt4xxUIE-o_wEH9evjOhHy0Y8HD0BMMisWVg0GLMc5aMnxJPoh75sA=w1068-h534-no)

Next I flipped the part to taper the top/bottom which was supposed to end up even thinner at 0.125.  I decided to go with the exact same setup as before even though it would end up a bit more thick.  Note the bit I left on the end was paying off big time as I could clamp it properly in the vise!  The book gave this advice and I'm glad I followed it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LKLKBep-LoumMst5g1WtWgkFLFwJn_YLEQEi7DTBuIa11oeVjRmOPRZ7a9l2yQ1bpPI5ACIJUvg6Na4iFDDYzJuKEqYI45sHFLIVZXTjix-j0T7o_TCLsyydDV21dkX7nBsiimKseu1jF-CQQw0xqtoM5LnV-EDnTOpUQfZII5kwDKhyjKq0o2MWB5lm77QzScNTrE5imng8rivNY-psnX8IMue-vadc5olMYLvPdlRM_cSng5tYfbqloTa5KEF3HV1mA_ffSn8QEKbIEbM2jp9XMa4d9mT6BaUXfSn0uNac_DxOj-jAyEPoXPeIUTvh1LsSHPCBBrTY4V1d6g2JkkSYXIbR4xHp9yW3rlbbjzrS5L8M9er6CqTkZhH1y3NYe1ob_TG32LQPjNk_O73nfIqp5uL98Bs26_pWRgceD05QbJK-YUn03c-Gp2gIS5ekVdXa8_TqZt89aOrgwJVZYjTrUekESJRC6RlkwGHWPGImRbJC9e0wUxbUqikGUJnmx-ueh9EQynyHkfOGOYgsgEbZbQPdrzPeI0JZNAvzt3TC8iMeCGUTRcc7pYOmEo-cRAXBsiFy5SS-xGoWZzW1Rxm4zL9P7DveZkO2lkzbinTxp5YY_MZ67SNWFAKZ06eNjE5Iri23Kv-KQweaswMRbF_hU-G0YXjIaw=w1068-h534-no)

Next was time to install that bracket I made earlier.  If you look real close in this next photo, you'll see I've slipped the bracket on the end of the connecting rod and I'm drilling/tapping two holes.  These "bolts" are 2-56.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZUfG8bVSGG8xnt804YkvbNtEOCTLoOBhEVSUtqzLTIroZDPNA_JXVGGACAmxe2NsigZsifDLCavAT36O-BeeuRA7G9Cia50ZFkg0HcI7X4W1M7ARExTfBAhDx9z4c1GTPwzvL4axSzS_-X9D3hXHVO_gFTCD_3An--ks60RpD2kg_kM7vFy0N79vm8wdSF_0Y_KZcmalMihftE2imSV2M1rcSnsHtOusIiMnrU5dMacZeFkDUW8q_NDvr1WbOwmiECnbs-U4fUAC0502qfARAUVwEp2QbA9xafF9jrn2dv3L1zI_ke3zQOBmdjVCxUKqxv5EsrfbUUGq2tmlrUeN7VpqKh1Ek_E2BsIdOcmJ2bXBOTXb-W2zKy0xQkVaxPLEvZj331V9Tit-4iinsxtrt8Kl9RPQFrmcnn3xZkRSvGE2TTd3D8aw1K23iXx9FO3Qz0i5h3Sy8MoMPC7goBKgeR3dskDCe3rBfPn6XFG4jcokB37cFaIzB1eIOt3flu7cO4a1AfaWxRKqQIRCoaj5MdSsXXdEPQ7tGPd1njsPknIHgiU9MXeN3cCcxAFSNDwT_Z0iwDLwsR31dw4bEgQd7ksphYH7yOYzwS9OTr0AOXPPX-O9XxOjBPWV68BkFgTQZzdMMcQmC09JvRnklaGuDn9iPg3nlq2gJQ=w1068-h534-no)

After bolting the bracket on both sides, I removed the bolts on the bottom side and setup in the vise to trim off the end of the bracket.  I didn't trust that the bolts were going to hold it for a sideways cut like this, so I added another clamp to hold it tight together.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CZUQY15jXUjxxK5CiwRQGGv5c_vYr9iGVL1rhcih02-3v6UUgMdLYHHGntJauRvZ29SRK8Y6clGvDxaLXnJSJ75_u8yUcCakkKDbKFwa-poljJwjMJEzlKJVIG83lJiVgD86s2i9Flu4pJAzZGzk6eOZ3xBSKpaYy68T5dFCQXLpHSl6czTkquunQpUuPmIoUnJGHrVIabVZY-UgvP5Kfn1r8cqj4ENFSodPsKsFIdnSMQVXJsp_tOIsdfIcnzUn9kgsnHKXkgY_3zkDzKfDNPCYfs4W_Nb42Wci1nn6F-w-slpZBkj5mopmb2b2t_35J5dBpE0jxn-35YpiU1m2QhUcN858rgvh_Bku9V0ohbPwDx7U12NLP86JsKiSQ7Fz0Zk-iJCvp4bjuFQGURn45CU1AroS8a5WUO8v_PihO7EXYJjcoZqu3M9DFi-YohqHjsm1-KRvZ6klFUUdVrAH7j_rtt4v0Qef3siyD-vMSfs0L2dExCtYbRyWhSV0y5iWw9xS_6rE3PSkwbzUs52GCl9ceMbUvxL--naclg4LifTUGy0pMNg8weYabwLIh9fSM1A1hVAq5kKudiDbqay4jyU_c6mhPfM0GVrgLVLY-oJz_EbG5WonlMsofEwaCio4qA-5Ah7A4akt0aLYAd_-6MlaguuIcNm0Zg=w1068-h534-no)

And here's the connecting rod in its "rough" shape.  Note that I left the bracket hanging a little separated as if there's some adjustment space there.  I really doubt that will be seen when it's attached, but I thought it might be an interesting detail.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uRONRgAGl_-Qp1T0nzSM8UxHeWtKxKwTyd9n-d21UptycyNl1CZbeM6SkMaCEY24Pkit_pqR5O3QYnfhIE401Ye3YRJH9DHPOmRJ1pMBubQKfcApkZPIkHhD2nrg24d7HsJ0_CKpopA_7H6sRmFfZ64BM_YwK-QQSyKJdyCdh35HcL8uDz3vYbHJ0NuZAWSZl_9OOG-VALL0pe6LSjrp57At_WgpiwkpKpowuMmEsoH84HUFqsDo3ciEtOUOWKwAov3Ok4nc6dv7AT9DoiYwvK6lNMbvOnNJz6wvgX3NRtEb0DLDnOrxw3QOZbzmC5rc3Juh4rWbLgK7wVoNea2IKqgquSaCWwXyekkiari1VlD296q9-YM56FcXj7wpt-mSET6iJMOS0lvQHuDbOuES2lUKvdVtWb6ggyAMy9OJc914H95XFbI3UPj63XW7xiscvYo7RSOSVJd0bD2qMJFmUR_w1UMaiqQP-LUxppeauIO_pjjolyrL4e8X-4WdlZu5JNqk2_rXYMM4OqJysgMR_9N64_BiFYwNeFsgm-knCWjXR9mklFOUO-QeBTVYZRZ8vSOBvsfnLh75oZwsDhZuJ692JZ2RSXMXkQ6YgqDLW-Axjt1NeDB8z-qa_u2ICMZbWHLQCbOa9pHEfikfY5hBxQq_uStTGNqkFQ=w1068-h534-no)

I made up some filing buttons for rounding over the other end by hand.  Even though this took a bit of time over on the lathe to drill and tap, it was probably less overall time that fiddling with my RT.  It's time like this where a teeny tiny RT (or fixture) might be handy, but the filing took less than 1/2 hour including making the buttons.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2Yn5qXOd_jSnbGyT1uWap-Ak4ODPrdFp5dPzpQegdtpUuzZszfSxXuev-4EDypQctRx9-Eow8yQWV6uzcKvMG6ClEF1HGxasyNntDJpbrea1CMJo5hqrxm0eG2yeY05ik9zhXLD6Oie5bGBVO4LWnQWTv3eGAmEAa5t4tkz4LYCEZUTm76Za6vEhLMxUEAq5RgNYtpM12jOWpCQDI2AZ9REM2RywK_-Zpx_Ww7d79KR579sMQNVe3ktT-y8xjOc8GU4INX3Wnt-0HN9gydY79Z9ym0vetHENoV1u07ZxvaQGYR7roIDlifoMO12BJShscfP5xg2OL7OSi7Ygayfq1RTzuWDTF4nRNF_hHutviRXtupon1kipvE7XtE566RBJb6boM1-0WCdbikphJWGIzCVLk4vKK2Ryf3RHN737vVskXm263rlHMZzGq8mCpPzkOkOvgrHdiS4CUwYjDbved1df61rJFtEZqOhDDijIpwhr05zM9PUSrWvj7sRudE-yPP2x2Io8qkBhUmp9yXu6KlpbTbBeJx6zVUKreFpC0bsmxaX74jmTvGDdh77MgQCjQsoiosCCx3wDqKZ4y8i_t47xvJEoJxUVEzJgVoJlHSQYGVJwgkAn1SiFYMan-j_i_kDt5rvJC6fIaUr02Bl8t_LdhL888RFTZA=w1068-h534-no)

And here's the finished connecting rod.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jSUyghPUEF0xMTl_5zBhypqW3YPpVfxYDLaPN0j2WIEnaFc4w8zvRImSAlD_NsMUQK2sTuW89WUiSOohkd3Ew0yOtAuGdXhGktKn81maAuWRpYOQGrL9OU2itdTU3BnH9s5zpsPVnq5ulehMMHUtLyCOx4OZv_w7ZyFm8N1gHMTdHuQAONkBKpGiilrRtWMsbO4ajZqP97K0Y4IAxu12rIjnroa-z-4BHOe1GNItNAqE9C5BdB9t5RLrvZVTCSr_IvISdYlTEXrRdFCUeZyaM8M3zX6_RaxtOZrvQnb-HT6gWgAWuLGebBfUFL_cs83gdmlMkA0X3ejtMNsmkYJOI-sqDYWCq6Z6NkiJVt6255-4NKnt3XmXXpe1EmFKgYTwKZToE_uTiavzPm0HQbXWU4y_AViliNDfTPE6u16hAgtrWivwX0Vvz4HgAP92JF3rdQwCb7ZDfq3txznOuktbznwvQm66vaYalmsX-KHJkrErXG1r1wg1C_a4N-LTRSJfHefD17lXDkAYpi3UT6wcfyeW8nm6zzcNWF_bIYbV3z15ZnLEn44sNHOYdPyru4lAs-pwrFXLqvB6tPh0Ocn4tiWj_DvEacrzbHS45zLu2NYF1PR8bF-ppz1SY1WBrwaEValO399YsEZ6MqWsyeiEY6XlQ64oXS71Xg=w1068-h534-no)

I'll move on to the eccentric next.  Thanks for having a look!

Todd
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