Model Engine Maker
Engines => Your Own Design => Topic started by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on July 08, 2017, 09:31:56 PM
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Hi every body,
I have just completed the drawing for another original design steam engine that I have labeled “Travis Steam Engine No.4". My plan is to start to work on it right away and I will post updates as the build progresses. Attached is a 3-view cutaway Cad drawing and specifications.
The engine specifications are:
Style: Steam Engine, Simplex, open bottom, open column
Number of cylinders: Two, aluminum with brass insert liners
Bore: 1-inch
Stroke: .875 - inch
Pistons: Aluminum, with 3 oil grooves, machined from round bar
Connecting Rods: aluminum, machined from flat bar
Valves: One per cylinder, machined from 1/4" brass round rod, double opening, spring loaded
Valve Chambers: One per cylinder, vertical, single 1/4" bore, machined from aluminum flat bar
Cam: Brass 2, eccentric lobes, mounted on crankshaft, adjustable timing
Head: Aluminum with internal steam and exhaust portals, machined from flat bar
Bottom Plate: Aluminum, machined from flat bar
Crankshaft: Brass, 180 degree offset each journal, mounted on s/s ball bearings
End Plates and Base: Aluminum flat bar, machined to shape
Flywheel: Cast brass modified with a longer center hub.
Steam and Exhaust plumbing: brass pipe and fittings
Hardware: stainless
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Will be looking forward to seeing it progress.
Bill
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I love starting a new project and getting some metal shaving into the chip tray. This is the first time that I have actually machined a part before completing all of the design drawings.
I am attaching photos of the Cylinders being turned from aluminum round bar in the lathe. They are now ready to go to the Mill to be bored out to accept the brass liners. I will also drill the bolt pattern top and bottom.
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Hello again,
Was able to spend a good day in the shop and get all the machining completed on the Head for the new engine. Made a few minor changes from the original drawing but very satisfied with the results. I have uploaded a short video to my Youtube channel.
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Started on the Bottom Plate (the plate under the Cylinders) and got all done except for some drilling and tapping.
1) Transferring the head bolt pattern to the Bottom Plate
2) Milling and boring work completed
3) Head, Cylinders and Bottom Plate
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Very interesting engine, Thomas. Do you plan to cast the flywheel yourself, or do you have an outside source?
Looking forward to watching this one progress.
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Very interesting engine, Thomas. Do you plan to cast the flywheel yourself, or do you have an outside source?
Looking forward to watching this one progress.
Hi Bent,
I purchased a cast brass flywheel and modified it by installing a longer center hub. I like the set screw to mate up 90 degrees to the crankshaft, it seems to hold better. I am attaching two photos showing the completed unit.
I got started at 1:30am this morning in the shop and plan to get enough parts finished to have all of the Upper Assembly completed. I will post another video on Youtube if all goes well.
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I got started at 1:30am this morning in the shop and plan to get enough parts finished to have all of the Upper Assembly completed. I will post another video on Youtube if all goes well.
1:30 AM :o Now that is dedication to one's hobby!!
Bill
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Hi Bill,
I would like to brag and say it is true dedication...but the truth be told, this old dog just cannot sleep late in the mornings. It is rare that I ever sleep past 2:am, so I try and make good use of my time and head for the shop.
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Things went really well in the shop this morning and got a lot completed on the new engine. :cartwheel:
Then this afternoon I miss-cut a piece and did all the machining on it before I discovered my error. I very meticulously made a second piece identical to the first part....yep, even the mistake. :hammerbash:
So I have shut it down for the day and will try again tomorrow. I have uploaded another video to my Youtube channel
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More time in the shop and a little bit more completed parts and it is now beginning to look like an engine.
I am attaching four more photos showing some of the work on the End Plates, Base Plate and Center Post Support.
Also a short video showing these parts and assembly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRNte5Jr6pA
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Hello to everyone,
I am still away from completing the engine but I am seeking advice about whether or not to paint everything except the brass pieces. I kind of hate to cover up the machined aluminum but to me, it just does not look like an old steam engine. Looking through a lot of photos posted over the years, most steam engines are painted except for the brass, some stainless and the moving parts like the crankshaft. Hopefully in the distance future (if this thing runs) I would like to install it into an ole river boat design and the engine must match that era. Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated.
PS; if you have a photo of an engine that you think would be a good example, please add it to your reply.
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Back in the shop again today and was able to complete both connecting rods. I am attaching 3 photos and a short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spAqJqJPOp0
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Hi Thomas,
You were asking for opinions about painting. I speak as a novice, building diorama models where the engines would be in actual day to day heavy use. I do not make engines as display models. If that were the case, there would be a lot of gleaming brass and steel. But in the real world of cast iron back in the day, paint was a friend. Even the parts that are modelled today in brass, gunmetal or bronze such as bearing housings were originally cast in iron, so they would have been painted.
Rust was the enemy - especially in wet environments.
But you are right. If the steel was an axle, or the bronze a bearing or brass an oil cup, then they remained unpainted. Even some studs and bolts that were prone to adjustment or replacement were left alone. Oil was nearby.
Just my thoughts.
Cheers...John
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Thank you John,
You stated it very well, where as most of the engine materials were cast iron or forged and they needed paint not so much for the looks but for protection. Right now I am leaning toward painting all the aluminum and polishing the brass items. I have played around in AutoCAD "painting" various parts of the engine different colors. Again early thinking, but black on the lower parts and some other for the upper section. I have seen a number of old engines with a two color paint job and they looked real good.
Thanks again, I appreciate your help and opinion,
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little more progress today in the shop working on the Crankshaft. Got started on this a week or so ago and finally completed it today (almost), still have some clean up, filing and polishing to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zO9xbVdHHU
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After viewing Steam Guy Willy's current project and couple other old engines that were painted, I have made up my mind to paint my engine. Sure do like the multi scheme. Now to decide what colors?
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I use the paint products from Phoenix precision Paints, They also have a great booklet telling you how to do it. I also use artists Sable hair brushes, quite expensive but really soft and the hairs don't fall out. Also when you paint the matt grey undercoat it shows up all the imperfections !! so you have to refinish the parts again !! good luck with this ,and there will be lots of help on this forum if you ask.! Also red projects out and greys recede etc etc
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I use the paint products from Phoenix precision Paints, They also have a great booklet telling you how to do it. I also use artists Sable hair brushes, quite expensive but really soft and the hairs don't fall out. Also when you paint the matt grey undercoat it shows up all the imperfections !! so you have to refinish the parts again !! good luck with this ,and there will be lots of help on this forum if you ask.! Also red projects out and greys recede etc etc
Thanks Willy,
I will look up Phoenix precision Paints and I have a bunch of artist paint brushes, had forgotten all about them.
Thomas
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Hey again everybody,
Completed machining the piston and got them attached to the connecting rods. I got a bit distracted the last couple of day messing around with making the second crankshaft and learning more on using Loctite.
Piston video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vncN7aQEz-s
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I just completed a "test" assembly of the finished parts. Everything went together OK but a bit tight fit on the pistons and the crankshaft. Other than being tight I believe some break in time will work everything out.
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Hi every body,
Finished working on the Valves and Rollers and got them installed in the engine. Installed all the piping for the steam and exhaust and hooked up the air for the first test run. OK, she runs great....so I start to turn on the video camera and wham, it stops hard.
Look at the attached photos and you will see the “Loctite” crankshaft failed. It twisted between the two journal throws???? I don’t trust Loctite any longer.
The only thing that I can figure that caused this, is when I band saw cut the main shaft between the throws / lobes it might have over heated that spot and the Loctite was compromised. I was very careful when I milled the “stubs” that were left after band sawing to mill one side a small amount and then move to the other side, and back and forth.
Any thoughts guys and gals?
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Two options Thomas, since the crankshaft is all brass, you could soft solder or silver solder the joints, or after using loctite to fixture the part, drill and pin each joint to prevent any movement. A 1/16" dowel pin should be sufficient, 1/8" if you want extra insurance.
Bill
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Cross pinning with the loctite is a proven method. I don't remember if you mentioned which loctite version you used? For these kinds of joints the retaining compounds like 603 are best, though the red works well too. Some are more tolerant of oils than others, if the parts weren't clean it could fail.
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Hi Bill and Chris,
I had made one already using silver solder but wanted to try the Loctite way. I normally do drill and pin but was trying to get away from that step, again why I tried the Loctite. After I posted here I cleaned all the parts and drilled and pined using 1/8" drill rod and Loctite. I have reinstalled the "fixed" crank and have her running now.
Chris, I used 648 originally but I switched to 680 for the repair job because it sets up a bit slower. I had cleaned all of the parts prior to assembly the first time.
I will get it tuned up and make a short video.
Thanks so much for all the help,
Thomas
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So, you machined it with just the loctite holding the journals? Wow. That does tend to make one a believer in the stuff, if I wasn't already. But yeah, get loctite hot and it will loosen up.
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And, I'm amazed at the craftsmanship, that is a pretty neat engine coming together!
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So, you machined it with just the loctite holding the journals? Wow. That does tend to make one a believer in the stuff, if I wasn't already. But yeah, get loctite hot and it will loosen up.
Hi Bent,
Well I guess it got a bit too hot during the cutting or milling, really don't know because this is the first time that I have used the 648 and 680.
From now own out I will drill and pin after the Loctite and then do my machining. After the repair it is now working great.
Thanks,
Thomas
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And, I'm amazed at the craftsmanship, that is a pretty neat engine coming together!
Hey again,
I meant to thank you for the kind words. I will add a video of it running next.
Thanks again,
Thomas
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Hello to all,
First off I want to thank everyone for your help during this project, sure make it nice to have all this knowledge of others sharing on this Forum.
Here is a video of Steam Engine No.4 (aka The Loctite Special) during a test run. After I get it de-bugged and more run time on it, I will take it apart, give it a good cleaning and then decide if it will get a coat of paint or just leave it as is.
Thanks again,
Thomas
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6j3XlHxmLc
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Very nice Thomas. And now the inevitable question...what's up your sleeve for the next project? :D
Bill
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Running nice! Excellent job!
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That's a nice engine Thomas. Well done.
-Bob
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Very nice Thomas. And now the inevitable question...what's up your sleeve for the next project? :D
Bill
Hi Bill,
Thanks for all you help, and thanks for the kind words. Well I'm not for sure, working on a 4-cylinder steam engine design and I have ordered some IC plans, just have not decided at this time.
Thomas
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Running nice! Excellent job!
Hello Chris, also want to thank you for your help, it is so much appreciated.
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That's a nice engine Thomas. Well done.
-Bob
Hi Bob,
Thank you, sure was an interesting build and a lot of fun.
Thomas
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Sweet engine, Thomas, that is some fine craftsmanship! :praise2:
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Sweet engine, Thomas, that is some fine craftsmanship! :praise2:
Thank you Bent, I ran it some more today and it really has "loosened" up a lot. I had cleaned the center post bearing area and applied more white grease and that helped a bunch. I plan to make a split bronze bushing and install it in the center post during the rebuild.
Thanks again,
Thomas
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Thomas, I have been following along quietly and enjoying it all. It really does have that "engine room " look and is a super sweet runner. I think you're paint scheme should portray that; just my opinion. May I also say, that being from the only other state that starts with "T" , I really enjoyed the accent on the video 8) :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
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Thomas, I have been following along quietly and enjoying it all. It really does have that "engine room " look and is a super sweet runner. I think you're paint scheme should portray that; just my opinion. May I also say, that being from the only other state that starts with "T" , I really enjoyed the accent on the video 8) :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
Hey Cletus,
Thank you for the nice remarks, and I agree that it should have that "certain" look you would expect from a marine engine. Being an ole retired ship designer I have a love for the engine room. I am looking at various color combinations now.
And bye the way, my Father was born on Pea Ridge just out of Murfreesboro. They did not even have a road in there until the mid 50's. He served on a Liberty ship as an Olier-Wiper and I still have his Seamans Papers.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Well now if that don't just go to show you how small this forum makes the old world, don't it now 8)
Cletus
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That is one sweet running engine. Built quick and runs like a charm. I have to ask ... are you going to sell the plan?
Tom
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That is one sweet running engine. Built quick and runs like a charm. I have to ask ... are you going to sell the plan?
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the positive comments. I have not thought about selling the plans. I drew all this in AutoCad and have made a lot of changes during the actual construction, so in that respect I really do not have a complete “set” of plans. My drawings are more like a prototype drawing rather than a construction set of drawings. I do not show all the required details and specifications. I know in my mind what material a piece will be made out of, but that is not shown on the drawings.
However I would be pleased to share this design and see others build their own version of this engine. Send me a PM and lets see if we can somehow get you a copy. If you have AutoCad (or any other equal design software that can read a dwg. or a dxf. format) please let me know, that would make it a lot easier. I just looked in my design computer and I have over 30 dwg drawings on this engine, most likely some have been eliminated due to changes.
Thanks again for you interest,
Thomas
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Thomas,
That's a very nice looking and running engine. If you ever do intend to sell or make available plans I would be very interested. BTW, I've had my share of Loctite failures under much less strain than your crankshaft probably experienced. I'm glad to see you got past that bump in the road
Cheers,
Phil
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Thomas,
That's a very nice looking and running engine. If you ever do intend to sell or make available plans I would be very interested. BTW, I've had my share of Loctite failures under much less strain than your crankshaft probably experienced. I'm glad to see you got past that bump in the road
Cheers,
Phil
Hi Phil and thank you. I guess I could take the time to "complete" the drawings to the point that an engine could be built from them. Do you have AutoCAD software? Send me a PM and I will contact you direct if I put a set of plans together for Tom.
Thanks again,
Thomas
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If they are 2D drawings, Draftsight (free from the solidworks folks) will open AutoCad files. AutoCAD imho has priced themselves out of the hobbyist market.
Bill
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If they are 2D drawings, Draftsight (free from the solidworks folks) will open AutoCad files. AutoCAD imho has priced themselves out of the hobbyist market.
Bill
Hey Bill,
Does it just open the file so you can view it or will it allow you to actually work the drawing?
Thomas
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You can work with it as well Thomas. The user interface is almost identical to AutoCAD LT, which I had used for years.
Bill
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You can work with it as well Thomas. The user interface is almost identical to AutoCAD LT, which I had used for years.
Bill
Hello again Bill,
This sure would make it easy to email a drawing without dimensions, and they could add them as needed.
Thank you,
Thomas
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Thomas, I have sent you an email.
Tom
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You can work with it as well Thomas. The user interface is almost identical to AutoCAD LT, which I had used for years.
Bill
Hello again Bill,
This sure would make it easy to email a drawing without dimensions, and they could add them as needed.
Thank you,
Thomas
Yes but to what end...the point of drawings to begin with is "dimensions" ?
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You can work with it as well Thomas. The user interface is almost identical to AutoCAD LT, which I had used for years.
Bill
Hello again Bill,
This sure would make it easy to email a drawing without dimensions, and they could add them as needed.
Thank you,
Thomas
Yes but to what end...the point of drawings to begin with is "dimensions" ?
Hey Bill,
What I meant was that they could save the file ( like I do ) and add any dimension they wanted, to see/use at any time. When I print out a drawing to use at the machine, I only add the dimensions that I will be working with at that time. Rather than clutter up the drawing with all the dimensions.
Seems that this point is mute anyway, because the Folder with all the drawings will be too large to send via email. I have decided to go ahead and update/correct all my drawings for this engine and make a complete set of printed plans that I will make available for free ( excluding copy and mailing cost) to anyone. I'm not sure how long this will take but will make a post when they are ready.
Thanks again for you help,
Thomas
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Thomas, I have sent you an email.
Tom
Good morning Tom,
Got it OK and sent you a reply.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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How large is the drawing file? The one I did for the half scale pearl engine including around 45 paper space tabs (one for each drawing sheet) is less than 1Mb in size, 885 kb to be exact, smaller than many single picture files.
Bill
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How large is the drawing file? The one I did for the half scale pearl engine including around 45 paper space tabs (one for each drawing sheet) is less than 1Mb in size, 885 kb to be exact, smaller than many single picture files.
Bill
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Hi Bill,
The original folder is 4.55 MB but that included all drawings including several re-draws and several individual drawings that I used for machining. I tried to email it to my office computer and my service provider here at my home gave me a message that the file was too large. I am not on a phone line here at my home. I have AT&T wireless and it could be just my local internet service.
I am in the process of "cleaning" up the folder and have spent most of the day preparing drawings that will become a "set" that I will have printed out. I am thinking about making them available in two different sizes, one 8-1/2 x 11 in letter size and a second in 11 x 17 size. I print most of my own drawings on the 11 x 17 because they are so much easier for these old eyes to read.
Got two coats of primer and one thin coat of paint on the engine today....same colors that I had on an old Indian motorcycle when I was much younger....
Thanks,
Thomas
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You might also consider saving each drawing as a .PDF file in either or both size formats. These could then be emailed and printed out by the user. Much easier than doing all the copying yourself. As I recall Jerry Howell's family supplies his plans that way now via online transfer. Most cad programs will save to .PDF files. Just another idea to consider..
Bill
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Recently I have been sending some very large 3D PDF files and use this free service. https://www.sendthisfile.com/
It is really easy to use, after uploading your file and sending it, the recipient gets an email notice with a link that allows them to download the large file to their computer.
Nice work on your engine Thomas.
Dave
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You might also consider saving each drawing as a .PDF file in either or both size formats. These could then be emailed and printed out by the user. Much easier than doing all the copying yourself. As I recall Jerry Howell's family supplies his plans that way now via online transfer. Most cad programs will save to .PDF files. Just another idea to consider..
Bill
Hey again,
I have never tried saving any of my drawings in .pdf, I will see if I can do that with my AutoCAD. Thanks Bill.
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Recently I have been sending some very large 3D PDF files and use this free service. https://www.sendthisfile.com/
It is really easy to use, after uploading your file and sending it, the recipient gets an email notice with a link that allows them to download the large file to their computer.
Nice work on your engine Thomas.
Dave
Dave, I will check that link out and try sending a test folder. Thanks for the this information.
Thomas
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You might also consider saving each drawing as a .PDF file in either or both size formats. These could then be emailed and printed out by the user. Much easier than doing all the copying yourself. As I recall Jerry Howell's family supplies his plans that way now via online transfer. Most cad programs will save to .PDF files. Just another idea to consider..
Bill
Hey again Bill,
I just got off the phone with my print shop and they can covert all my drawings into the .pdf format. It will be sometime next week but I will figure out how to make them available via email and will post that information.
I have consolidated all of the original drawing from the 30-plus down to a total of 16 pages plus one cover page. This includes the options on building some of the parts.
Thanks Bill and everyone for you interest,
Thomas
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Good morning everyone,
I made a short video of the completed engine now mounted and tuned up. I recorded (or gave it my best shot) the chug-chug-chug from the exhaust stack while running at 2-psi. I am really pleased how this project has turned out, it has been a fun build.
Have a great day,
Video link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi7YcN7qZc0
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Very nice indeed Thomas! The sound is great too. Remember to post it also in the showcase section.
Bill
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Very nice indeed Thomas! The sound is great too. Remember to post it also in the showcase section.
Bill
Thank you Bill for your support. I got the camera too close to the stack at one point to get a correct sound. Sure wish I had a remote microphone to be able to record sound and keep the camera at a "viewable" distance.
Again thank you,
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Thomas,
Thank You for showing your latest engine. I like it and I agree the sound is great. It's just chugging away doing its job.
ShopShoe
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Thomas,
Thank You for showing your latest engine. I like it and I agree the sound is great. It's just chugging away doing its job.
ShopShoe
Thank you for the good words. I love the sound and wish I could include it on each video of a running engine. As a young man I worked on an old Tugboat which had a 3-cylinder diesel for the main and a single diesel for the generator. I loved to stand outside on the upper deck as we plowed our way up and down the Intercostal and listen to the stacks. Both engines would harmonize every once in a while and it would send chills over my body.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hello to all,
OK I created a small website to be able to upload the Free Plans in a .pdf format. I was able to upload a file today and it is available now at the link below. I created the drawings in a 11x17 size so the .pdf can be printed out on any size paper up to 11x17. There are 17 pages of drawings and 1 page letter/information. If you need any more information please let me know.
Adding to this thread 11/26/2019; the link that I had originally posted on here has been deleted by Google???? So I have up loaded the first 8 pages in a pdf format of the free plans on Reply #81 and the next 8 on reply #82 and the cover page letter on reply #83
Thanks,
Thomas
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Hello everyone,
Several people that have downloaded the drawings for the engine have contacted me about the Valve Timing. I did not feel like I could properly answer in writing so I made this short video to explain. If anybody has any questions please send me an email.
Thanks I appreciate your interest,
Thomas
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nVZL2cCNHo
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Thanks for the links, Thomas, will bookmark them for when my skills reach that level.
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Thanks for the links, Thomas, will bookmark them for when my skills reach that level.
From what I have seen of your work so far, you are there. If I can build this thing, then anybody can.
Thomas
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Dunno, would have to get "good" at silver slobbering...maybe I'd do it with the tig welder instead, just to one-up y'all. :Jester: In reality, it would just put a new definition out there for "how to distort a crankshaft" :lolb:
Seriously, was glad to take a look at your website, there are some neat ideas there, as well as the pictures of the painted-up version of your latest. At first glance, I wasn't too sure about the color scheme, but after a bit it sorta grows on you. And that sound at low rpm, I think you nailed it when you called it "just chugging along, goin' up-river". Now you just need a boat, and a stand-in for Ms. Hepburn.
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Hi Bent,
The crankshaft that is in the engine now is not silver solder. I made a second crank using Loctite 648, then drilled and pinned each throw-shaft-journal. I received some great help of "how to" here on MEM for this procedure.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hey everybody,
Received the new larger and much heavier brass flywheel in today and chucked it up in the lathe. Machined it down to a nice finish and bored a temporary 1/4" hole to fit on the crankshaft. I will add a extension on the hub later on but I was anxious to see how this was going to work, and here is the result. :cartwheel: :cheers: I surely am pleased with this little engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D32v3GIkaMM
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Nice work Thomas. I like the slow runners :ThumbsUp:
Cheers,
Phil
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Nice work Thomas. I like the slow runners :ThumbsUp:
Cheers,
Phil
Thanks Phil, this is what I was hoping for with this design. It might run slower after it gets completely broken in.
Thomas
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Sweet! :ThumbsUp: Love your narration, Thomas, and that is one sweet running engine. Sounds like it's time for a shot of your best bourbon.
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Sweet! :ThumbsUp: Love your narration, Thomas, and that is one sweet running engine. Sounds like it's time for a shot of your best bourbon.
Hey Bent and thank you, had several after that run.
Added the longer hub on the flywheel this morning and put two set screws in it instead of one. Figured that much weight needed a bit more grip.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hello everyone,
I have been experimenting with various designs for a muffler to put on my No.4 engine. I wanted to improve the sound and increase the volume so that the exhaust could be heard from a distance when the engine was running real slow. I built 6 different ones and used steel, brass and aluminum in different lengths. This one on now is the best so far and it is made from aluminum bar, tapped one end 10-40 and over bored the other end .375". I believe it has helped a lot and I should be even better when I run it on steam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLPlq7aLJ8Y
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Good day to all,
A good friend and fellow machinist, David, has just completed the first ( to my knowledge ) one of a Steam Engine No.4 from my free plans. He states it runs very smooth and quite slow on about 2 pounds of air pressure. He plans to leave it in the natural metal finish and will install the center crankshaft support soon.
Looks like he has done a really nice job and some beautiful machine work.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hello everyone,
Another #4 Steam engine is now completed and running. Note that JR used the optional “straight” valve design and a much lighter flywheel, but as you can see it is a really smooth runner. He also chose not install the center post support which is not required. He has done some beautiful machine work on this engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKRMe3_hOWs
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Nice!
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Hello everyone,
It has been brought to my attention that the Google link for the free plans to Steam Engine No.4 posted on reply #66 no longer works. Not sure what Google has done but I cannot access my account. I will up load the first 8 drawings here in a pdf. format so they can easily be copied. I will upload more on the next reply.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hello again,
Ok here is the next 8 pdf. format drawings
Thomas
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Hello again,
The is the cover page letter for the drawings.
Thomas