Hi Chris, until today I have not seen a Fusion Tutorial, but I have seen one from Inventor.Looks promising, will give it a try. Thanks!
https://youtu.be/5vp-3hqR_T4 (https://youtu.be/5vp-3hqR_T4)
I am sure it will work in Fusion also.
Beer supply should not be the problem.
Looks great Achim!
It will be fun to watch this one progress.
Dave
......., but we will see it running in the future :ThumbsUp:
:cheers: :popcorn:
That's off to a good start :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
How do you intend to set the valve clearances, eccentric bushes?
Will you solder (soft/hard) the crankcase?
That's a lot of machining :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Are you saving the swarf to sell? :stir:
More progress :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Was the hole that 'failed' for lubrication?Hi Roger the purpose of these 2 mm holes are more simple.
Looks great Achim looking forward to the build and brass oh you know ........I..........like........ :Love:
:cheers:
Don
You must be pleased with that alignment :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: Straighter than my camshafts :(
Beautiful work Achim! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
It's coming together nicely! :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Hi Achim,
My two cylinder engine is planned to work for it's living in a small tractor (as is the diesel when it eventually runs properly ::) ) so I am expecting it to spend time at 3 - 4 000 rpm. The start of the concept is below.
I know only small steps but progress is progress in my understanding even if it is very slowly.
Nicely done :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: What is the boring bar you are using in picture 33?
Those are very high quality parts - I expect you are very pleased with those, and rightly so. That is a nice pile of chips on your mill! :ThumbsUp:
Hi, I love the way the 21st century technology is making something very 19th century looking. Great work loving it :popcorn: :popcorn:
willy
Nice progress Achim, everything is looking great!
Dave
Nice :popcorn: :popcorn:Hi Terry, thanks vor watching.
Nice progress Achim - it is always good to see things go round 'n' round as they should :ThumbsUp:
I can't remember if you have shown how the two halves go together - is that "just" the bearing + a locking pin to garantie they follow each other ?
a very slight interference fit will be better.
Let me assure that I only hope you will be successful -
This past weekend at Cabin Fever, I met an saw Doug Kelly's engines. Just outstanding work!
I wondering what you are going to use for the cylinders? Are you going to bore material to size or I think I've heard mentioned using honed, hydraulic cylinder tubing. I cant remember if someone mentioned it at the show??
Coming along nicely, BTW!
Thanks, Sid
I think "on my side of the pond" it's 12L14 leaded steal.
How have you guys found 12L14 for corrosion over time in a model engine? General parts I've made from 12L14 around the shop can show rust flecks and I live in a very dry part of the world. Gnerally I blacken them but that's not possible for a cylinder liner. I love machining the stuff & considered it for my radial engine but, particularly because its methanol glow fuel, opted for cast iron. Not sure it will be a noticeable improvement but CI is whats called for in the plans & even old school commercial glow engines used CI it before hard chroming came in.I only used 12L14 once, cut well, but rusted quickly in the damp summer air. Switched to 303 stainless, cuts great too without the rust, never went back.
Do you have a sense of how much material you are removing using the spring honing stone tool and how parallel the bore is?
Now the notches weren't just a hole that the bar would fit into but rather they were tapered on one side so that when the engine started the bar would be easier to retract.
gbritnell
Yes Baring holes. Some of the larger engines had baring engines to turn the engines over.....Worm gear for a 750 HP compound from a steam tug boat. You can just see the swinging bracket at the left end of the engine bed. a worm would be fitted there with a shaft that has a large wrench hex. The bracket also had a curve slot so that it could be swung into engagement with a large worm wheel that clamped to the coupling flange ( 2 halves). Once you swung the gear into place it would also prevent the engine from rotating...which makes working on a engine like this safe....the crankshaft alone weighs 9000 pounds. A simple flange with baring holes can be seen to the right of the Seabury 100 HP triple from a steam yacht.That looks like it was taken just outside the sshipyard buyilding at Mytsic Seaport, right? :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Yes Baring holes. Some of the larger engines had baring engines to turn the engines over.....Worm gear for a 750 HP compound from a steam tug boat. You can just see the swinging bracket at the left end of the engine bed. a worm would be fitted there with a shaft that has a large wrench hex. The bracket also had a curve slot so that it could be swung into engagement with a large worm wheel that clamped to the coupling flange ( 2 halves). Once you swung the gear into place it would also prevent the engine from rotating...which makes working on a engine like this safe....the crankshaft alone weighs 9000 pounds. A simple flange with baring holes can be seen to the right of the Seabury 100 HP triple from a steam yacht.That looks like it was taken just outside the sshipyard buyilding at Mytsic Seaport, right? :ThumbsUp:
Dave
May be, if the Bruce Macbeth engine will be ready one day, it can drive the compressor to start your Mercedes-Benz W165 Grand Prix engine ;D
Little problems add up to become bigger problems ::) I'm glad you got it sorted out :ThumbsUp: As the water will be flowing from the smaller bore to a larger one I don't think you will see much loss of flow.Hi Roger thanks for watching.
Hi Per thanks for watching also. Good to know that you are following along.
I think that Roger nailed it with his comment and I do hope that you end up with a satisfying result :ThumbsUp:
Hi Achim,
The engine looks great! I have also made many assembly fixtures for soldering pieces together. It's better than ruining work that has taken many hours of work. It's strange that the smallest taps and dies you can get is M1.6. Over here in Imperial land I can get all the way down to M1.0x.25.
gbritnell
(https://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/P1070691.JPG)
Hi Achim,
The service platform is a nice genuine addition to your engine. I have been meaning to add one to my B-M for years. It is even drilled for it. Just haven't gotten around to it.
Jeff
I am beginning to think that CNC means you can make mistakes faster ::)
That looks wonderful! :ThumbsUp:
What's the diameter of the railings?
At least I feel safe now as I inspect this lovely engine close up :praise2: Can't wait for the stairs / ladder so I can get down. Terry
Beautiful work on those fine details, Achim! I love watching you work! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
Hi Achim, you have done an amazing job of those stairs and all their detail. The handrails should be easy now.
Was there any reason you decided on the torch instead of the oven?
MJM460
Railings and stairs look fantastic!
Hi Achim
The railing, platform and stairs certainly gives one a better idea how large the original engine is; very nice work on these detail parts, they look great!
Dave
They are great :ThumbsUp: I have got down at last :Lol: A beautiful structure. Terry
Awesome work Achim..... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
Coming along nicely :praise2: :wine1: Where are the cast pipe fittings from? I need to try a centrifgal pump next, I have gear and diaphragm versions :thinking:
Hi Achim,
Thanks for a very interesting build thread. Very nice work.
What is the material, supplier, etc. for the belt you ordered to drive the coolant pump?
Chuck
Ups - at least you found it before plumbing the whole show .... and it just shows that the Interference Check in the CAD program is a very useful feature if used .... We have all been there ....
Nice progress nonetheless :cheers:
Nice work around Achim, no one will ever know......or will we? :Lol:
Dave
Hi Achim,
:facepalm2: When I saw the thumbnail view I thought your Ultrasonic cleaner it looked like something from the bathroom in your workshop. I am pleased was wrong ::)
Jo
I assume that the oven job is powder coating.
Excellent :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: Do you have an idea how thick the coating is, 0.05mm?
Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: Is the fire extnguisher ready for when you glue the strips down ;)
Dave, thank you very much.
Frank, the design of the Bruce Macbeth engine is copyright protected by the Village Press publisher, so may be not a good idea to share it.
The service platform is my own design, so no problem to share it.
The CAD model is drawn in Fusion360 under a private licence so I can do an export as a Fusion ZIP container (.f3z) only.
If this will help, let me know, please.
By the way, I will mention it before Jo came aware, I have seen you are registered to MEM in 2018 already, but until today we have never seen an introduction.
May be you will find the time to give us some information about your preferred model engineering activities.
Could it be that you are involved in steam locos ?
;) Lots of brass swarf and some interesting fabrication to come :) :) :wine1:
Yes, welcome to 2021 Achim [from Australia] :cheers:
During my apprenticeship 50+ years ago, I spent some time working on maintenance to Cooling Towers.......[huge multi story Towers - 4" NB inlet and outlet pipework - 'Air Blast' water fall type with huge volumes of ambient air blown over the water cascading thru the labyrinth of wooden slats, so fans, motor V-Belt drives, replacement wooden slat shell etc]
I was aware of minature closed loop fluid filled PC cooling radiators, however amazed to see :facepalm: the open loop versions
Maybe a little premature, but will you use a % of glycol or similar, to protect engine or system metals and also reduce the chance of the fluid becoming rancid?
From practical purposes in actual cooling towers, an isolation valve on the inlet side of the tower would allow for maintenance on the tower internals, however also importantly maintaining a head of cooling water in the engine :ThumbsUp:
Always looking forward to your thread postings
Derek
Happy New Years to you Achim and the engine is awesome....... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
This would be more in line with it being a kind of Industrial installation .... a naked radiator so to speak.
I have found I can run my engines off load with just the radiator but if I start loading them I need the fan.
Excellent progress :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: I have found I can run my engines off load with just the radiator but if I start loading them I need the fan.
What do you use for the gaskets? Looks like Viton sheet?
Great progress Achim!
I'm still following along here.
Dave
Just thinking out loud - how about soldering a thin flat piece of brass between the underside of the rectangular (square) and round bit ? - so you offset the round piece just enough to clear the socket wrench ....
I can only concur that this model is getting better and better :praise2:
That looks quite a complicated soldering job ::)
I do like your powder coating finish :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
Nice that you could solve the problem with a smaller socket :cheers:
I'm a lot more of a soft solder expert and just about nothing with regards to hard solder - so caution needed here - but solder tends to flow towards the hottest part ....
So I wonder if the part where you can't get it to flow, is slightly cooler than the other side where you got plenty ...?
Careful - you do NOT want to keep the flame fixed at the same spot - but keep it moving all the time. Done correctly, you can move the solder with the tip of the flame.
Not having the area that needs to be soldered clean enough can prevent the solder from flowing there ....
Now one last question - do you have water or exhaust gas where you do not have a perfect flow ?
In case of gas - you probably do not have a problem here .... water might result in a slow seepage ....
Gorgeous engine Achim. :cheers: Terry
Very nice work Achim, I’ve stated it before but the statement bears repeating; you’re building a beautiful model.
Soldering I something my eyes just won’t let me attempt any longer, can’t seem to see what I’m doing well enough without burning my eyebrows off :ROFL: . The little soldering I need to do is usually substituted with Locktite. :ThumbsUp:
Wow! That looks great, Achim! The pipework is all so tidy, the paint job so neat - the whole ensemble looks wonderful! :popcorn:
Kim
Hi Achim
I'm still following along and enjoying your great progress!
Dave
:Love:
:drinking-41:
Don
Looking very nice!
What more do you have to do for a test run??
Sid
I have no experience of OZ collets. What machine is this on, not the Proxxon??
And I like your sterile tray that you keep your parts in. Looks like you're ready for the operating room! :Lol:
Kim
Achim,
This is one of those builds that is so good, there is nothing really I can say that Would be enough.
Tony
Lots more bits :) :) :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
Did you have any problems cutting the faces on the valves with the countersink?
Hello Achim,
More good progress, you must very near to completion. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Please can you remind me of the diameter of the valves and inlet/ outlet ports. They look to be quite small.
Do you do the vacuum test dry or with a the oil?
Mike
I would think a valve leak test that exceeds 15 seconds would be more than adequate. Still following along Achim.
Beautiful work Achim :ThumbsUp: Looking at these cylinder heads :Love: I shall have to build an I.C. engine one day. Terry
Outstanding work as usual Achim! I really like this engine,
Outstanding Achim, still with you and you know the smell of brass just gets me cranking....... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
Well, now you know! Too bad those pretty nuts didn't do the trick. I'd think that the extra height of the nuts would have made up for the decreased distance between flats, but apparently not :( . Wonder if there's some happy middle ground? Maybe you can use cold black for these silver nuts and improve their look some. Still not as pleasing of shape. But there's a LOT to be said for them doing their job!
Excellent detective work, Achim!
Kim
That's some fine CNC gymnastics :praise2: Do you bring the X axis back to the reference point each time you rotate the 4th axis?
:Love:
:drinking-41:
Don
:praise2: :praise2: What is the extra piece on the left hand bracket for?
Impressive parts - but why did you not let the CNC do the holes in those parts ?
I mean - that would ensure total accuracy with regard to placement and angles ....
Yes you would have to change tool, to do the final 'Reaming' for the axle, but ....
Per
Achim,
I always admire your skills and love the way this engine is coming together. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Two questions?
What screw threads are you using? I ask, because the nuts have nice proportions. Small metric nuts are all the wrong shape for models. They are intended for ease of tightening and not for looks.
Have you anodised the cylinder heads? They look great
Mike
Most of the screws and nuts at these engine are metric "Modellbauschrauben" and "Modellbaumuttern", M1.6, M2, M2.5, M3.
Here a German source with dimensions https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/modellschrauben-schwarz.html
Unfortunately the fallout from Brexit had made importing stuff from Germany much more expensive. Suddenly many suppliers and their shipping companies are adding special surcharges and then there can be import duty and more VAT taxes to pay.
Per,Hope, maybe. Expect? Nah.
We can only hope that our politicians will grow up and act with responsibility, once again. Perhaps, one day?
Mike
:Love:
:drinking-41:
Don
QuoteUnfortunately the fallout from Brexit had made importing stuff from Germany much more expensive. Suddenly many suppliers and their shipping companies are adding special surcharges and then there can be import duty and more VAT taxes to pay.
That also goes the other way Mike. I had to order some tools for my big bike from the UK, and I had to pay for two shipments, even though the British company promises that everything on the same order goes out on one shipment charge and in one package .... it was shipped a in two parcels with minutes in between :censored: .... and just to make it worse - I had to pay Customs handling fees twice for that reason :Mad: .... and all that meant several weeks delay in Customs :cussing:
So absolutely NO reason to EVER buy British again .... Shame as I had good experiences before Brexit ....
Thank you for your reply Achim - I do understand your argument.
Mike, if you can follow this website I can probably order some for you.
https://holzapfeldampf.ch/product/muttern-modellbau-stahl-schwarz/
Achim, an interesting distributor build :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: What materials are you using?
Mike, if you can follow this website I can probably order some for you.
https://holzapfeldampf.ch/product/muttern-modellbau-stahl-schwarz/ (https://holzapfeldampf.ch/product/muttern-modellbau-stahl-schwarz/)
Switzerland is also not in the EU so it may be easier ::) :o :toilet_claw:
:ThumbsUp:
That's going to be a fantastic looking engine!
Great work all the way around Achim!
John
This is a great looking engine, Achim! Love the powder coat and the anodizing :) :ThumbsUp:
Just curious, why'd you choose to anodize some parts and powder coat others?
Kim
Hi Achim
I love all the detail that you are putting into the engine and display, it sure is looking nice!
Dave
Looking good :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
Are the pins Loctited into the rollers or the rockers?
Another batch of nice new shiny parts :)
Great that you caught the missing clearance before commiting to making the rest of the camlobes :ThumbsUp:
Hello Achim,
Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Keep a close eye on those roller pins when the engine is run. There is not much Loctite holding them in place and rockers always experience a lot of hammering.
Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for your advise.
I have had already mixed feelings when I assembled it.
In Dougs drawing is no special advise for this fit.
His has designed the holes with 0.0938" and the pins also, that´s it.
Hi Mike, thanks for your advise.
I have had already mixed feelings when I assembled it.
In Dougs drawing is no special advise for this fit.
His has designed the holes with 0.0938" and the pins also, that´s it.
Hello Achim
Could you make some different pins, with a small flange at one end and drill and tap the other end M 1.5 ?
Or drill and tap M 1.5 both ends?
Mike
Hi Achim, the detail in your model just keeps getting better and better. Your skill and methodical approach shows in every post.
MJM460
If you decide to use a small dab of Loctite, put a small drop of it in one side of the rocker arm then insert the roller pin in the rocker arm from the opposite side of the rocker arm. Then oil the roller.
Jeff
I assume that is intentional so the valves close quickly and follow the shape of the cams?
Kim
Quite some time since last entry Achim - I hope that you are OK, and not one of them you lost everything in the horendes flooding this summer ....
Best wishes
Per
Are you parting off with the tool upside down and the lathe in reverse?
Hi Achim,
Congratulations on your retirement.
Good to see you working on the engine again. Impressive work on that camshaft. A lot of parts to fit in limited space.
MJM460
Retirement is great when you have a hobby like this to keep busy with!
Aw - damn - that is quite annoying for you :hammerbash:
How about https://www.amazon.de/ (https://www.amazon.de/) - they usually have the same things as the US and UK version - but NOT always ....
Best wishes :cheers:
Per
Now with all the time on your hand with retirement you can start making your own gears. You know it time to start Achim your a skillful builder and making gears like George does is very simple. :stickpoke: :stickpoke: . If you don’t have my gear spreadsheets PM me your email address and I will send them to you with the latest revisions.
Regards Don
a one time opened tube will not last very long, due to its property of curing with air contact.
a one time opened tube will not last very long, due to its property of curing with air contact.
Double bagging in zip-lock sandwich bags will greatly prolong the life of a tube, and I really mean double bagging.
I like the idea of your spark plug adaptors so you can see what is going on :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
How did you cut the ramps on the starter dog? I have tried various milling set ups but now just use files.
Yes, you're certainly close! I don't have IC experience so can't give you any input there, but it looks great and sounds really good while it's going. I know you'll get there!
Kim
Sounds very promising - so you can't be far of a sustained run :ThumbsUp:
I can't make out if you are trying to open the Throttle fully with your finger in the video and if that is where you are closest to it running by itself ....
Next thought : if you require an adapter to fit the bigger Carburetor - will you get a bigger area in the smallest diameter all the way to either where the Manifold divides or will it not be the Venturi that is the smallest ?
It should make a difference, if it's still the Venturi with the bigger Carburetor.
The model looks great :praise2:
Almost there :) :) :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Have you rechecked the valve and ignition timing in case something has moved/slipped?
The shock loadings from the camshaft can be quite large. Is there a possibility that the crownwheel and pinion driving the camshaft could be jumping teeth?
That sounds rather better :) :) :wine1: Did you find where the timing had slipped?
Achim,
Have you verified the closing degrees of all your valves. The closing degrees are very important.
Jeff
That was a very interesting little tidbit Roger - do you have any reference, or was it just told verbaly to you ?
Per
For a one off as soon as you open the air intake past the optimum you have to make a new body ::)
That was a very interesting little tidbit Roger - do you have any reference, or was it just told verbaly to you ?
Per
I found this by a number of routes. L C Mason refers to a carb with two butterflies, one before the jet and one after and the relationship between them. I have a couple of commercial carbs that I have modified for my engines and noted that the air intake bore was bigger that the bore in the barrel and the engine side bore. If you go to the extreme and make the inlet side bore bigger than the air intake side you will end up drawing neat fuel and no air. For a high volume production finding the optimal bore can be done by experiment. For a one off as soon as you open the air intake past the optimum you have to make a new body ::)
That's a neat little boring bar in Vergaser 20 :)
You may find you will need to increase the size of the bore on the air inlet side otherwise the mixture will get too rich as you close the throttle.
Fits nicely - have you tried it ?
Achim,
You need to verify valve opening and closing degrees to determine the correct valve duration. When things don't work as expected, it is a logical place to start looking for the problem. Nominal durations: I - 200, E - 220 with no overlap at TDC.
Jeff
Your new carbs Looks very successful :) :) :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Depending on the shape of the cam the opening and closing points of the valve can be significantly affected by the valve clearance. Can you easily increase the clearance of a pair of valves and measure the timing again?
Great news Achim; Looks like not only I have been watching Mike's valve event drawings.
I think we all understand where work is done, the energy consumed will result in heat :Mad: , so it is most realistic to see steam exiting the water Cooling Tower [and tank] in a model combustion engine plant.....
We also saw this in the January the 22nd clip, I just didn't mention it :Doh:
Do you mean that 95 degrees is the intended max operating temperature of the engine, or that is the limit of the cooling water system?
[it appears that the probe of the thermometer is at the lower level in the water tank?]
:facepalm: .... just beautiful Achim
Derek
That runs wonderfully! I can only hope mine will run as well!!!
Congrats Achim! She's a Runnah!!!!
Dave