Google "KS-3 machine" did not give any clues and adding CNC to the search was no help either :headscratch:Typo - its a Sieg KX-3
Will you elaborate with more info later Jason ?
All CNC machines seem to have the big red Estop buttons. I believe these are quite useless, as the damage is always done well before you even have the reaction that says its time to hit the button. I saw a custom control panel once that had that button labeled "Oh Shit", I believe a much more appropriate label.
In this thread Jo commented that parts can take a long time to machine by CNC
I can see lots of uses for one but its like 3D printers if it takes hours and hours to do the printing/machining :Doh:
The picture attached shows the simulated part after the metal had been "cut" on screen and you can see the top left that it will take 8.23 to cut, add another 1.28 for cutting teh web from the other side and th epart will take approx 10mins to cut, 20mins for the pair.
I can see lots of uses for one but its like 3D printers if it takes hours and hours to do the printing/machining :Doh:
Dave, remind me which tormach you have at work?Tormach PCNC 440
Bill
Yup cnc tends to be pricey.. Yup it takes a while to climb the learning curve hill. What isnt being mentioned is the set up time saved. The tooling saved.
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I now run PathPilot; here a card from Mesa generates the pulsing, and it's much smoother. I've set rapids to 150, although I could have gone faster. The screen layout is a lot better too. The main disadvantage of PathPilot is that one can't jog the axes during a tool change, which is possible with Mach3.
My PathPilot screen has 1mm as the maximum jog. I also set jog feed rate to 40% of rapid.
Using a CNC mill has changed the way I design parts and assemblies, and has also changed the way I machine, some of which has fed it's way back to the way I use the Bridgeport mill. There are several uses for the CNC mill in my workshop:
To make repetitive parts, like traction engine wheel spokes that would be a pain to do manually
To make parts that could be done manually but would be time consuming to set up - like radii and fancy profiles
To make parts that are impossible on my manual machines like special cutters and true bevel gears
To save time and avoid foul ups when making parts commercially
My PathPilot screen has 1mm as the maximum jog. I also set jog feed rate to 40% of rapid.
I'd have tackled the engine pillars in a slightly different way. I'd have done a helix all the way through in the centre and then incremented out, leaving about 0.5mm of stock. Then I'd have done a profile pass full depth to finish using a circular approach and retract. That way you avoid possible tool marks from multiple passes, and minimise tool deflection. I'd then take out the recess in one pass. For the outer profile I'd probably do it in two depth passes, again leaving about 0.5mm stock. Followed by a full depth profiling pass. I'd probably leave the tabs, but experience shows they're a PITA to remove without impairing the visual appearance of the part. At least I'd try and put them in places that mate with other parts so they're not seen.
Andrew
My PathPilot screen has 1mm as the maximum jog. I also set jog feed rate to 40% of rapid.
That's useful to know. I contacted Tormach about the issue and they promised to change the values. I'm still using an early version of PathPilot, so it may be that Tormach did indeed update the values in a later release.
Andrew
I do not know if this works for Pathpilot as well as LinuxCNC. It is worth a try, you can always return to the original setup. :zap:
I'm running the 1.9 version myself on non-Tormach equipment and see no reason to update. The CD version costs $100, and I doubt the USB stick would be more.
@jadge00After screwing up a part or 2 doing the edge finder switch-eroo, I recently started touching off my .200" E/F @ 2.54 mm. Works great & no more miscues!
Even when machining a metric part, I will often switch to imperial since I'm using an edge finder with a .200" diameter.
@jadge00After screwing up a part or 2 doing the edge finder switch-eroo, I recently started touching off my .200" E/F @ 2.54 mm. Works great & no more miscues!
Even when machining a metric part, I will often switch to imperial since I'm using an edge finder with a .200" diameter.
I use a Haimer Zero Master to pick up edges. Using one means you don't need to worry about imperial or metric units, simply jog until the needle is on zero.
Andrew
Accidentally hitting an arrow key instead of PgUp has resulted in destroying 2 of the probes at a cost of $50 each time. So now it's confined to the Bridgeport. >:(
Murray,
Good to see you chipping in here, would definitely be interested in how long this would take you as having seen your machine in action it can shift metal at a fair old lick :o
Recently CamBam has added an operation for trochoidal pocketing and profiling, which is quite similar to adaptive paths.
The USB stick for V2.x is $24.95; I've ordered one. Unexpectly the order went through with 'free' postage.
Why is the return move on each clearing cut so slow?
(http://One neat and powerful feature of Fusion CAM is the ability to save the part-machined output of one CAM setup as a mesh (STL) file and then reuse that as the stock for the next setup eg when you turn the part over to finish the other side.)
This is called "rest" machining; you can program to the rest of the part after a roughing op.
I can't see me wanting to go back the the [sic] old ways of doing things.Blimey, that's a handbrake turn from what you wrote recently on another forum about willy-waving rights when doing it manually. :o
I'm happy to not wave it about as much. ;)Better nip over to the other forum and correct the blooper in your reply to ChrisJ this morning then. I can't imagine many people wanting to hit it with a lump hammer. ::)
I can't imagine many people wanting to hit it with a lump hammer. ::)
I draw in Alibre but do the CAM with Fusion 360, it defaults to climb milling but you also have the "both ways" or conventional option, you can also set a different feed and DOC for the conventional as the cutters seem happier with climb cuts so can take a bit more off in that direction. Andrew Johnston pointed me that way early on and I use it all the time for the main adaptive and a lot of the time for everything else as it saves a lot of time.
... of the now unobtainable MAPP gas ...
Love the finishes.The original stopped production in the US at the only plant that made it in 2008, the current stuff labelled as MAPP is not the same chemically, I've noticed that in my torch made for the original stuff it does not burn anywhere near as hot, harder to start it burning correctly, and goes out once in a while. Still works fairly well for small jobs.... of the now unobtainable MAPP gas ...
Perhaps I missed the posts regarding this. Why do you say it is unobtainable? Is it a UK thing? Or are you referring to the original MAPP gas? I understand it's production was stopped (or reduced) some years ago and products called MAPP are substitutes with a different composition.
Very very nice, you've certainly mastered the art of making a part machined from solid look just like a casting!
The cost of ownership workes out at less than £1.50 per week.
Are you still holding out for those overlength Seal casting's Mike?
keyway lined up with a spoke
I meant to point out to Jo how true the flywheel runs, not just the machined bright surfaces but the painted "cast" ones as well, don't get that with a casting that has the two halves out of line and distortion :LittleDevil:
In due course I'll let people know how the cover for my regulator goes:
Looks like I would need a 4th axis to make use of that emboss feature.
Think I may get a 0.5mm engraving cutter (0.020") and maybe a 0.3 to have a play with.
Still waiting for Graham to confirm sizes but I can't imagine that valve being any more than 2" dia on full size so that's only going to be 1/2" dia on the 1/4 scale model which makes for some very small writing
Have any of you used the tapered engraving cutters?
But what diameter do you enter into the Wizard?
But what diameter do you enter into the Wizard?
I am pleased Dave is not reading this ::)
Jo
.... I'm off ...Yup! Six or seven bubbles off plumb.... :lolb:
Dave
Yup! Six or seven bubbles off plumb.... :lolb:
I used G-Wizard to calculate and even in brass at 4000 rpm the suggested speed was around 1 IPM. This was for engraving letters at .003" DOC.No need to waste valuable beer tokens on G Wizard. The sums are very simple - feed per tooth x number of teeth x rpm = feed rate.
Correct Mike .... but if the price of you're castings are compared to the candy you got and you do the same with the mill bits Jason brought to the little bag of Haribo he got as a treat - you were skinned ...! ;) ;D
Now if I could just get my candy supplier to throw in some castings....
I run a lathe at work with a conversation control, (Fagor). It is really pretty easy work with, just a bunch of building blocks turn, face, groove, thread etc. It even has a built on CAD window where you can draw a profile and then use it as a tool path. I don't think that I would want to deal with it on the mill but for the lathe it works quite well.
If you think about most lathe parts they usually are not all that complex.
Dave
Gerrit:The choice for me was cost, I don't like buying in US and shipping to Canada is extortionate so choose the USB only option. I have a shipping address in NF, NY. (Not much use until next year due to border closure :-() Since my copy is still on 'the other side of the wall', I found a download of the 2.0 version to get on with things.
Can't go too far wrong at those prices. I thought it was unobtainable or several hundred dollars. So you're suggesting "PCNC 1100 PathPilot Upgrade Kit - Software & Manual PN: 38706" rather than "PathPilot Software Bootable USB Drive - Recovery Media PN: 38249"? If I can get one I'll start bothering you about which Mesa cards and pin out. But for now which to order. Thanks.
The only downside for Tormach I can see is they'll get more support questions. That could be a problem on their end. Otherwise, win/win.
I confess, I just Google for LinuxCNC questions and end up in the forum more times than not. But it's solid code and free. :-) On my last install I somehow ended up with an old unsupported Ubuntu version which I thought was LinuxCNC's most current release. Works fine until you want to install, say, an editor and all the Repositories are gone. When I get a chance I think I'll upgrade to Mint. Last time around I moved from the parallel port to a Mesa 5I25 card directly connected to my older than old PMDX breakout board.
I tend to be cautious with large scary cnc machines. I use MDI commands and if complex at all CAMBAM. I very seldom hand code G-code, but knowing a little helps at the machine with MDIs. Also handy when modifying post processors. For the mill CAMBAM is, I believe, a good 2 1/2+ CAM package. (I'd like a true 3D package but haven't found one yet.) The CAM packages are pretty good for milling but for lathe work it's a little different. I think there are some good commercial packages for lathe but I can't afford them (and won't use Windows). So, for the lathe I end up doing more hand coding, very carefully. It's a lot easier than a real programming language. A G-code simulator helps with debugging also.
Thanks for the help.
That's marvellous Jason.
Andy
Jason,
Do you still have diaphragm air-brush compressor that you could try? You dont need a high pressure or even a high flow to blow away the chips. Using a big shop compressor is overkill. The noise on my shop compressor kicking in unexpectedly, when I am doing fine work, always makes me jump.
Another possibility is a small centrifugal fan similar to the fan a blacksmith uses to stoke the forge hearth fire
Mike
Hugh can you refresh us on which mister you have? A fog buster style will happily run from an airbrush compressor. The suction/venturi effect ones need a lot more.
I can supply plans for a usable fog-buster clone, a few holes and a needle valve in a block.
Gerrit
I'll do a full write up at some time but this shows some of the work on the cylinder. Starting with manual work on the lathe to bore undersize and cut the fins which was quite complex as each fin is a different diameter so the tapered sides vary on each.
Gerrit:One other thing that I don't recall seeing in the other thread: the tank should be near on-level with the mister. At the pressure used there isn't much oomph left over to push fluid uphill. OTOH you also then need to watch out for syphoning, ask me how I know that.
I've tried both. The Fog Buster type was described here (https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,9930.msg225136.html#msg225136) and is very similar to yours. I also have two siphon based misters that I've tried with this compressor. I've used the settings you all suggested, but my experience was I needed more flow that 0.6 cfm.
p.s. I do like your design. Thanks.
Finally back to the manual machines to curve the inner faces of the bosses before silver soldering it all together....
Yes it's a press tool and Mike is close, just the wrong part of the face ;) I'll leave it to Graham if he wants to say what it is at the moment.
Eye cannot put a face on the current project Jason. My lips are sealed. Obviously you nose what it’s for, I presume I’ll be ear ring from you soon? :)Hmmm.... You are building a mechanical Capt. Jack Sparrow!
nice to see the results of your labours, I posted about this pattern back in post number 253 (https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,8882.msg224793.html#msg224793) and have just seen the casting, hopefully will get a more detailed image once it has been offloaded from the lorry
Good to see a few more images Graham. The second attempt at the main casting looks to have come out very well. What about a group shot of the rough assembly with the beam as well :stickpoke:
Not too shabby, what's the writing like?
3mm off top and bottom and 2mm of the bearing split line.
As for the time it is not as though you really need to be there, I find if something is going to go wrong it is usually in the first 60seconds due to a setup error.One of the reasons I ditched Mach 3 on my Tormach is that it had a nasty tendency to loose the Z axis zero point at the most inopportune times. I have a scrap head for my Val engine to prove it.
I have had that happen a couple of times Art, luckily in both cases the tool has ended up too high and just not cut for the rest of the job.
What do you run now?