Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: vcutajar on February 19, 2013, 06:36:52 PM

Title: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 19, 2013, 06:36:52 PM
If you do not see the photos in this build log I suggest you look here:
https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Corliss_engine_build.html


Well here I am at the start of a new build.  I had planned to do a Hoglet after the Kiwi but was having difficulties (until Jason pointed me in the right direction) getting the original back-issues for the Hoglet.

In the meantime the MEM Corliss made its appearance and I sort of fancied doing it.  The Hoglet plans have arrived but I am still going to do the Corliss as it's a new challenge.  I have never built steam models and most of the terminology of the parts are still new to me.

Late last week I managed to get hold of a slice of mild steel for the flywheel. 

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200001.JPG)

I was not going to start something and then find out I can't get hold of the material for the flywheel.  It's 200mm diameter and 50mm long.  It cost me 74 Euro and that includes the cutting of the slice (45 Euro).  The cutting was more expensive than the material!!  I guess beggars are not choosers.

I started work on the flywheel a couple of days ago but did not want to post anything until I made sure I could mount it to the lathe and and I could reach all machining areas.

I am going to go Metric but will be using direct conversions (1"=25.4mm).  The clearance holes and tapped holes will be Metric.  So first thing I did was print the flywheel pdf and convert all dimensions to Metric.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200002.JPG)

Blued up the best face of the material and using a divider marked the flywheel with spokes so that I could see where I could drill the mounting holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200003.JPG)

I decided that it would be a good idea to face off the other side before.  So I clamped it to the mill table and put a 20mm endmill in the collet to start milling that face.  That's when the first problem cropped up.  I do not have enough Y axis travel to reach all parts. This flywheel is going to stretch the capabilities of my poor chinese 3-in-1 lathe and X3 mill.  I remembered I had a flycutter which I very rarely use because I never get a nice finish.  I tried it and I could reach the top and bottom of the face.  I was not worried about the finish because I would still be machining this same face on the lathe.

Flycutting finished

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200004.JPG)

and the four mounting holes marked

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200005.JPG)

and drilled with a deep counterbore for the allen head bolts.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200006.JPG)

This morning I bolted the flywheel material to the faceplate and managed (that was heavy) to fit it to the lathe. Experimented with various toolpost configurations to get it as close a possible to the face.  Set the lathe to its slowest speed (160 RPM) but was having some doubts if this is slow enough for this diameter.  Looked it up and I got an RPM of about 50 if using HSS tools.  Good thing I am going to use carbide tools for hogging it down to size.

Made a first cut on the OD to see if I had enough reach

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200007.JPG)

and the face with a different tool configuration.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200008.JPG)

At least now I am satisfied that I could reach (just) all areas.  Now to start hogging the thing and hopefully the lathe spindle bearings won't give up the ghost (keeping my fingers crossed).  Thankfully the material is nice to machine.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: rudydubya on February 19, 2013, 06:54:19 PM
Looks interesting and challenging Vince.  Thanks for sharing your build.  I'll be following along.

Regards,
Rudy
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 19, 2013, 07:02:21 PM
Looks good so far vince. That is a sizeable piece of steel there but glad to see you got it all mounted with a little wiggle room to spare. Will look forward to your progress on this one.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on February 19, 2013, 07:21:23 PM
Yes, I'm watching with interest as well - that flywheel alone is a big project.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 19, 2013, 09:34:48 PM
Hi Vince - nice to see you have got off to a good a start. That's a big lump to 'pick' away at but 'slowly slowly and you'll catchee monkey'  ;)


Something that I find effective which you may like to try if using HSS.  Keep the cuts very light .25 - .35mm - put the speed up a bit from normal and use very fast feed rates. It's quite surprising how quickly the metal is removed despite the shallow cuts - a lot of passes yes but this puts far less strain on the 'kit'. Because of the 'thin' cut the heat does not generate so quickly bearing in mind I do virtually all machining dry except for the odd wipe of a coolant brush. Despite this the tools stand up okay even on En24T .

Hope that's of use and not 'teaching granny'

I look forward to seeing and reading more of your build as it develops.

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 19, 2013, 09:59:22 PM
Thanks guys for checking in and the support.

Quote
that flywheel alone is a big project

How right you are.  Everytime I look at it I find that there is a new problem to solve.  This evening while hogging the OD of the flywheel I realised that I do not have anything to accurately measure the OD.  All my calipers are 6"!!  First thing I did as soon as I got on the computer was to order a 12" digital caliper.

Quote
Hope that's of use and not 'teaching granny'

Thanks for the suggestion Ramon.  I will try it out when getting closer to the finished dimension.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 19, 2013, 10:12:15 PM
Hi Vince - Sorry I've misled you - that's for the roughing and waste removal. It does work well but regrind the tool and reduce everything to normal for those finishing cuts

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on February 19, 2013, 10:16:27 PM
HI vince. Wow! That is one big mahmoo of a lump. You seem to be working through the problems well and I hope that as you continue along in the project that the problems become less of a nuisance and you get some clear water for smooth sailing. You just have to 'hold yer mouth right" is all. (now Tel will say that is an old adage from down under)  :embarassed: :ROFL: :shrug:




BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on February 20, 2013, 01:25:16 AM
Alright Vince; a new project :cartwheel:

I have pulled up a chair and grabbed a glass of :DrinkPint: and will be along for the ride.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on February 20, 2013, 02:48:54 AM
Quote
How right you are.  Everytime I look at it I find that there is a new problem to solve.  This evening while hogging the OD of the flywheel I realised that I do not have anything to accurately measure the OD.  All my calipers are 6"!!  First thing I did as soon as I got on the computer was to order a 12" digital caliper.

You just need to cut a gauge out of a bit of sheet metal - something like a big horseshoe. Actually, there is no reason why rule measurement won't do for that job - the OD doesn't fit anything.

And yes - hold yer marf right, as we say down here!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 20, 2013, 03:07:42 AM
Vince I will be tagging along also, I look forward to your progress. I had posted a spread sheet on spoke offset radius calculation. If you missed it its here http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1271.0.html you can use it for straight spoke calculation. It can be changed to metric if you want to, the sheet is not locked.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 20, 2013, 03:40:57 AM
Go Vince!  This should be fun.  At least three different ways to build from the same plans. 

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 20, 2013, 07:35:08 AM
Thanks guys for the support and suggestions.

Quote
Sorry I've misled you

Got it now Ramon.  Does it happen to anybody else?  You read something and your mind gives you the wrong interpretation of what you are reading.

Quote
Actually, there is no reason why rule measurement won't do for that job

Yes, I guess you are right Tel.  No need of accuracy on the OD but it gave me an excuse to buy a new tool.

Quote
I had posted a spread sheet on spoke offset radius calculation.

No Don I did not miss it.  As soon as I saw your post I thought it was perfect timing for me.  It has been already downloaded.  All I need to do is try to figure out how to use it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 21, 2013, 10:47:51 AM
Don

I think I finally figured out how to use your excel sheet.  It is going to save me lots of work.  It will also accept metric dimensions.  I did not need to change anything in the sheet.

In the meantime I am still hacking away at the lump of metal and also experimenting with different tools how to create the recess in the face.  I would like to avoid using a trepanning tool as I suspect I might not have enough HP and rigidity on my smallish lathe.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on February 21, 2013, 04:48:12 PM
I'm watching with interest as well Vince - good start  :ThumbsUp:

A narrow trepanning tool should work - just take light cuts.  Another option is to use a V shaped tool with adequate clearance and turn out most of the recess. This will leave angled sections next to the rim and the hub that can then be cleaned up with a boring tool at the rim and a right-hand cutting tool clamped down like a boring bar for the section next to the hub.
Lots of cranking on the crosslide either way  ;)   

How are you planning on holding the workpiece to the faceplate to recess the other side ?

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 21, 2013, 05:38:30 PM
Thanks Arnold for the interest.

A V type tool is one of the options to turn the recess.  Another option I tried today is a 6mm HSS round section tool I have which also gave promising results.  For sure I suspect there will be a fair amount of tool changes whilst making the recess.

Quote
How are you planning on holding the workpiece to the faceplate to recess the other side ?


The plan is not to use the faceplate for the other side.  I will be holding the thin section of the hub with a 19mm collet and a live or dead centre on the other side.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on February 21, 2013, 07:12:54 PM

The plan is not to use the faceplate for the other side.  I will be holding the thin section of the hub with a 19mm collet and a live or dead centre on the other side.

Vince

Hi Vince,

May I suggest you give some thought to reversing the jaws in your chuck and using them on the inside of the recess of the 1st side to machine the 2nd side recess. Your collet method means you are a long way from any support as you approach the rim and fpm speeds get higher as you move away from the centre.

(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo340/Maryak/Hit%20and%20Miss/IMG_1069.jpg)


Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 21, 2013, 10:23:26 PM
Bob you are right.

There will be no support from the back when working close to the rim.  I did not think of using the chuck in that manner because I discounted the use of the chucks that I have as they are relatively small.  Also I was more preoccupied with keeping both sides concentric hence using the collet.

I will have to rethink my strategy and investigate if it's possible to use one of my chucks.  I can't exactly remember what size of chucks that I have at the moment.  I think I have a 4" 3 jaw chuck and a 5" 4 jaw chuck for the lathe and a 5" 3 jaw chuck on the dividing head but no backplate for the lathe.

Thanks for the heads up.

Vince

p.s.  Is that the flywheel for the Corliss in your photo.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 21, 2013, 10:45:13 PM
Vince,

Just another thought on a rigid set up for the second face. If you have a slice of material that you can bolt to your faceplate as a sub plate (or hold in the 3or4 jaw) that is just slightly larger than the recess diameter in the first side of your flywheel you can turn a register on the OD of the subplate to fit the recess diameter and hold it using a bolt and large washer through the bore (threaded into the sub plate). Remove as much metal as possible outside of the washer then as you move toward the centre you turn the washer away too until the hub diameter is reached.

If you dont have a spare slice then bolting four pads to the faceplate will give you the same but you'll need a drawbar through the spindle then.  I use 6mm capheads or button heads for all bolting / clamping like this counterboring for clearance if required

It's a good way of getting a rigid set up - hope that makes sense

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 21, 2013, 11:07:31 PM
Ramon

I am not 100% sure what you are trying to explain to me but you also gave me another idea to try.
 
I was re-reading your post whilst composing the message and all of a sudden it clicked and now I know exactly what you are trying to convey.  Time delay or age thing.

Thanks.  Another two options to try.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 21, 2013, 11:27:45 PM
Vince - From what you are saying it probably isn't neccessary but I've just reworded the above post slightly just to be sure  ;).

Ramon

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on February 22, 2013, 04:15:33 AM
p.s.  Is that the flywheel for the Corliss in your photo.

Na, it's only a baby 5.5" or 140mm from my miss and hit. (That way round because I've still got to get it to run). :ROFL:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 22, 2013, 10:49:33 AM
Well this morning, first thing I checked was if any of my chucks will be suitable for this application.  None of them will hold the flywheel in question.  So most probably I will have to use Ramon's subplate suggestion (if I find the material).  As it is, I still needed to do a subplate for my 6" rotary table to do the flywheel spokes.  So this same subplate would be used in both operations.

Just two questions.  Ideally the subplate should be round to fully support the flywheel, but if it is rectangular would that be OK?  Would an aluminium subplate do the job?

Thanks in advance.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 22, 2013, 11:13:14 AM
Just two questions.  Ideally the subplate should be round to fully support the flywheel, but if it is rectangular would that be OK?  Would an aluminium subplate do the job?

The subplate can be any shape that you can mount on your faceplate, without anything catching ;). Aluminium, so long as it is thick enough for bolting to, would be ideal.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: RonGinger on February 22, 2013, 05:18:58 PM
I have searched all over but cannot find the source of this MEM Corliss. Can someone show me a pointer please.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on February 22, 2013, 05:23:12 PM
Try here Ron

Dave


http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1285.0.html

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 22, 2013, 05:30:59 PM
Hi Ron

Hope you found it.  Arnold called it that in his build which I think is a nice gesture and I just followed suit.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: RonGinger on February 22, 2013, 07:10:52 PM
Thanks, I see why search didn't find it with that title.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 23, 2013, 11:34:39 AM
Not much to show but still a little progress.

The OD of the flywheel is finished 0.1mm oversize for clean up.  The excess material has also been faced off.  Left about 1mm to be faced off from the other side.

The face has been marked to be recessed.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200009.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 23, 2013, 02:29:02 PM
Nice setup Vince, a T slot face plate. I had made one for my small Micro mark lathe. Works great for some setups.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 24, 2013, 10:16:31 AM
Started carving up the recess for the spokes.  Started with a V shaped tool

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200010.JPG)

and with multiple passes went down a depth of about 5mm.  Changed to a left-hand tool

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200011.JPG)

and removed the taper left by the previous tool on the rim side of the flywheel.  Changed to a right-hand tool

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200012.JPG)

and did the same on the hub side.  I estimate that I need to do this operation another two times before finishing off to the correct depth with an HSS tool.

If anybody thinks I am going to run into problems later on with this method please advise.

OK question time.  The flywheel rim is going to be 0.188" thick and 1.5" wide.  Is there enough metal to get a proper "flywheel effect"?  What I mean, is there enough mass at the perimeter of the flywheel?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 24, 2013, 11:12:52 AM
Hi Vince, That's a good start. Lots of swarf eh?  ;)

3/16 does seem a bit thin across 1.5 inches - why not step it to create a central ridge somewhat thicker say 5/16 and 3/4 wide. If you introduced a slight taper and used a well radiused tool too it would help give the impression of a casting.

Regards - Ramon

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 24, 2013, 12:35:08 PM
Yes a 3/16 rim on an 8" flywheel does seem too thin, I'd be looking to at least doubel that to 3/8", 1/2" would be better
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 25, 2013, 11:27:33 AM
Well, I do not know what to say.  As I already started the turning process I am basically committed.  I can maybe increase the thickness by maybe a couple of mm.  Today was spent looking on the internet for Corliss flywheel photos.  All the ones I found had relatively thin and wide rims.  I only found one photo which had a thicker rim but it was thinner than the rest.

I will sleep on it and tomorrow I will decide what to do.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 25, 2013, 11:35:08 AM
Vince,

The MEM Corliss Engine is based on the  Fraser and Chalmers Horizontal Corliss Engine

(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=788.0;attach=1451;image)

As you can see it does have a remarkably thin flywheel for it's size  ;).

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2013, 11:48:19 AM
But if you compare the likely bore with the diameter of the flywheel the Frazer has a flywheel about 9-10 times the bore dia but the MEM one is only 6.5 times the dia so really wants more mass in the rim to compensate for the smaller dia.

a flywhel 9 times the MEM bore would have approx 2.5 times the energy as one 6.5 times the bore for the same rim thickness, 3/8 rim would be 1.3 times and 1/2" about the same energy.

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 25, 2013, 12:25:51 PM
I have just reviewed the original thinking behind the choice of diameter of the MEM Corliss. It was based on the fact that 7 1/4" flywheel castings are commercially available, more than the momentum provided by the wheel and most lathes can handle flywheels of this diameter.

It is not practical to reduce the cylinder size further to make the flywheel look relatively bigger due to the Corliss valve bits getting fiddly  :shrug:. So a thicker rim may be desirable.

Jo

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2013, 12:42:41 PM
Vince, how far have you got with removing metal, if its not too late can you make the rim section something like this?

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 25, 2013, 01:12:23 PM
Vince, Jason,
I was actually thinking that the thicker 'rib' left by stepping would be inside the rim not outside. It looks Jason as if your image is conveying it on the outside but that may be my interpretation.

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2013, 01:23:05 PM
No rib on the inside, thats the flat 1.5" x 3/16" bit that is already done on the bottom of the picture.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 25, 2013, 01:33:47 PM
Vince,

If you can do what Jason is suggesting I think you will be on to a winner. You can not only keep the apearance of the wheel being thin but you gain weight  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 25, 2013, 01:59:35 PM
Jason, what are you using to produce images like that ?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 25, 2013, 02:10:39 PM
Looks like his copy of Alibre  ;).

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2013, 02:18:15 PM
Another option if you have gone too far on the first side would be to add a barring gear :) and turn the other side thicker.

Ramon those are just screen snips from pdfs produced by Alibre. I posted those as some people have a problem opening the pdf files as it needs the latest version of Adobe Reader (free to download anyway). I have atached the pdfs below, if you open them and then click on the image it will then allow you to move the image about, zoom, change from solid to outline etc.

I also used Alibre to work out the mass of the flywheel rim for the comparrisons above, just draw a basic rim, tell it what material and it will give you all sorts.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 25, 2013, 08:56:15 PM
Thanks Jason, I have been considering trying to update what meagre skills I have with AutoCad 2d -  though I'm not sure I want to layout a deal of cash on it at the moment. However, rather than go off topic on Vinces thread I'll post something about it a bit later.

Apologies for the delay but for some reason have been unable to access this this evening.
 I was able to open the PDFs BTW  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 26, 2013, 12:25:49 AM
Thanks Jo, Jason and Ramon for your inputs.  Just came back from Manchester. Tomorrow, well actually later on today I will go to the garage and do some measuring and report back with my options.

Jason what is a barring gear.  Tried to google it but what I found is something having to do with steam turbines.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 26, 2013, 07:39:44 AM
The flywheels often had a gear profile cast into them either on the inside or outside of the rim. This was so a barring engine could be used to bring the engine to a point where it could self start. It gets its name from the earlier use of a pry bar to do the same job in simple holes or notches in teh rim

(http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f19/37672d1314605961-laminated-gears-brede-waterworks-barring_engine.jpg)

If you google "barring engine" and search images you will get better results
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 26, 2013, 07:41:08 AM
Vince, if you look at my corliss flywheel:

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/corliss/IMG_1597.jpg)

You will see that she has teeth around one edge. This is for the driver of the engine to use a long pole on a pivot to manually turn the engine over. On big engines they may have a smaller baring steam engine to turn them over to their correct starting position.

Of course these gear/toothed rings were only necessary if engine driver failed in his duties of stopping the engine in an appropriate location for restarting  :slap:.
An experienced engine driver would never need to resort to the embarrassment of running the baring engine  :hellno:

Jo

Edit: Jason your post crossed over with mine  ;)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steamer5 on February 26, 2013, 08:08:04 AM
Hi Team,
 The other use of baring gear is to clear the cylinders of condensate, most embarrassing to the engine driver if he blows the cylinder end out! You not only get them on piston engine but also turbine, although for a slightly different reason, to give even cooling & to prevent sagging of the shaft. My first job I happened to wonder thru the turbine house & asked the shift engineer what he was up to, got to help bar the turbine over while he had a cuppa! Now that I do this type of thing for a job I have played at with a couple of turbine & now a mother of a compressor having baring gear, beats turning them over by hand!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 26, 2013, 11:02:47 AM
Thanks guys and Jo for the suggestions and the info on the barring engine.

Did some measuring this morning and the image below is what the plans call for and what I still can do.  I am afraid it is hand drawn.

As you can see I do not have enough material left to play with.  Another interesting thing I discovered is that if you see the original plans, between the inner part of the rim and the end of the spokes there is a solid disk of material which I guess also adds up to the rim mass.

So now I have three options:

Option 1:  Make the flywheel as per plans and see what happens.  After all this is a prototype and it would be interesting to see what happens.  Believe it or not I sort of fancied the sleek design of the flywheel.

Option 2:  Make the slightly larger flywheel and see what happens.  I do not think that with the new design it would make much difference.

Option 3:  Make the slightly larger flywheel and reduce slightly the dimensions of the cylinder as Arnold did (1"=25mm).

What to do?  Decisions, decisions.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on February 26, 2013, 12:40:59 PM
I'd take your option on the right just round the corners rather than chamfer.

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 26, 2013, 12:47:51 PM
Yes, me too Vince - and you can always radius the inner corner with JB Weld ;)

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 26, 2013, 02:34:03 PM
One of the chamfers is already there (produced by the V bit).  To remove that will mean reducing the thickness of the rib.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 08, 2013, 11:50:03 AM
Not much progress.  It is slow going but I don't mind.  Since returning home and doing all the errands that accumulate whilst away, I have managed to finish one side of the flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200013.JPG)

I have decided to make it as per plans only the rim slightly thicker and wider.  I did not bother to remove all the machining marks as I assumed that a couple of coats of primer will cover them up (hope I am corrert).

Now I am going to start work on an aluminium subplate (as Ramon suggested).  It looks like it was cut with an axe

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200014.JPG)

but what happened is that three-quarters though the cut with a power hacksaw, it went kaput, and they put it on another machine.  I am not complaining because I was only charged 18 Euros for a lump that is 190mm by 1.5".

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on March 08, 2013, 11:57:41 AM
Hi Vince, Looks like you're well underway  :ThumbsUp:

Sorry to disappoint you but the primer is unlikely to cover any tool marks completely. However if you wipe a smear of JB weld or similar over then 'sand' it back once cured that should do it nicely.

That lump of ali should serve you well for all sorts of set ups to come  ;)

regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on March 08, 2013, 12:26:51 PM
One thing I have done in the past is to stipple on a thickish coat of prime, this gives a subtle cast effect and will hide minor tool marks
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 08, 2013, 12:57:25 PM
Thanks Ramon and Jason for the tips. Yes Ramon I intend to re-use the same subplate for the rotary table.

Meanwhile I forgot to mention that I am brewing up a Plan B for the flywheel just in case everything goes south.

Another thing I am thinking of doing is what Jason suggested earlier on.  I am thinking of milling notches at the edge of the flywheel to simulate a barring gear.  Now, if Jo would be kind enough to tell me how many notches that Corliss flywheel in post 47 has :naughty:.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on March 09, 2013, 02:10:16 AM
I'll hazard a guess and say 80
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on March 09, 2013, 04:44:24 AM
I did not bother to remove all the machining marks as I assumed that a couple of coats of primer will cover them up (hope I am corrert).

Vince

Hi Vince, another possibility is to use one the "Hammer Finish" enamels, after the primer, these are pretty good at hiding very shallow marks. and can give somewhat of a casting effect.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on March 09, 2013, 07:49:11 AM
If you make it simple and divide the circumference by twice your chosen cutter dia you will get a number.

Say use a 3mm cutter then  184 / (2x3) = 96divs

Make that 90 and its one turn of the rotary table wheel per cut, as its on teh inside of the rim 90 would be quite close
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 09, 2013, 08:33:41 AM
Thanks guys

Another possibility that came to mind to hide the very shallow machining marks is to use car body filler.

Jason I think you are using the diameter in your formula but the answer is correct, 96 divisions.  I did not think of doing them on the inside of the rim but on the outside like Jo's photo.  More possibilities to ponder on.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on March 09, 2013, 08:48:14 AM
Thats what I meant by the last bit, 90 will be almost right for the inside but I could not remember off hand what teh internal dia was so worked it out based on teh outside.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 09, 2013, 06:54:26 PM
Today was definately not a good day but I learnt two lessons.

Today we had our general elections for a new government.  We (family) decided to vote early in the morning to maybe avoid the queues at our local primary school.  Arrived at the school and I thought, good, no queues outside.  Went in.  Not many people around.  Located our polling booth and there was a  :censored: queue.  Looked at the other polling booths and they were deserted.  I should have taken this as an omen of things to come.  Waited about 30 minutes, voted and off we went back home.

Ran a few errands and finally went to the garage to work on the sub-plate.  First order of the day was to make a flat surface on one of the faces.  Used the same procedure I did with the flywheel material.  Using the flycutter I started milling off the face and getting the usual finish.  I do not know why but decided to spray some WD40 on the face and things started improving dramatically.  I was getting a near mirror finish (first lesson).  I was really feeling smug as I never managed to get this type of finish (if I wiped it with a cotton rag I would actually scratch it).

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200015.JPG)

Nearly finished with the flycutter but I was late for lunch and I must have been distracted because the flycutter hit one of the clamps which produced some deep gashes in the face (second lesson - never rush especially at the end of an operation).  I am sure there is a saying in English about people who rush but just can't remember it.

In the afternoon I went back to see exactly what I had done.  I could have lived with the gashes, after all this face was going to be clamped to the faceplate,  but as penance for my sin I decided to start anew and remove the gashes.

Finally finished. A whole day to face one side.  How I wish I had a larger lathe.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on March 09, 2013, 09:05:22 PM
Hi Vince

The phrase you're looking for is probably 'More haste - less speed'  ;) I remember one of my old tutors had another - "You need to slow down to speed up". I often catch myself thinking on this latter one if things start to go wrong - and they do quite frequently- and the penny drops I'm trying to do too much too soon ::) Least it's not a 'binner'  ;)

Re the WD 40 - As you have found this is a good lubricant to use with Ali and will improve the finish. However a word of caution - we used this all the time at my last place of works - it came as a fluid and was decanted into squeezy bottles for use. I soon found, particularly using it on the lathe that I quickly became sensitised to it and it gave me some pretty bad repiratory problems - I still react if I get a whiff of it but that may of course now be psychological. A much better alternative however is ordinary paraffin.

Hope you have better luck tomorrow :)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 09, 2013, 10:14:44 PM
Quote
'More haste - less speed'

Yes Ramon it could be that one. Although English here is considered as a second language, the finer details still elude me.  Maybe I should print it in large font and stick it to the wall.  It's not the first time I have been caught in this trap.

Quote
A much better alternative however is ordinary paraffin.


Paraffin has become here scarce as hens teeth.  It's not used here anymore.  I still have a small jerrycan of paraffin which I jealously guard.

Tomorrow hopefully will be better.

Now off to read Arnold's update to see what's he has been up to.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on March 10, 2013, 02:13:15 AM
Over here it's "haste makes waste".  :stir: :stir:

  Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on March 10, 2013, 06:13:39 AM

Paraffin has become here scarce as hens teeth.  It's not used here anymore.  I still have a small jerrycan of paraffin which I jealously guard.

Vince

Kerosene, Jet fuel (Jet A1).

Shouldn't be tooooooard tofind. Unless they've stopped flying.  :LittleDevil:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on March 10, 2013, 06:27:54 AM
Diesel fuel will work fine...

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Stuart on March 10, 2013, 07:22:55 AM
Today was definately not a good day but I learnt two lessons.

Today we had our general elections for a new government.  We (family) decided to vote early in the morning to maybe avoid the queues at our local primary school.  Arrived at the school and I thought, good, no queues outside.  Went in.  Not many people around.  Located our polling booth and there was a  :censored: queue.  Looked at the other polling booths and they were deserted.  I should have taken this as an omen of things to come.  Waited about 30 minutes, voted and off we went back home.

Ran a few errands and finally went to the garage to work on the sub-plate.  First order of the day was to make a flat surface on one of the faces.  Used the same procedure I did with the flywheel material.  Using the flycutter I started milling off the face and getting the usual finish.  I do not know why but decided to spray some WD40 on the face and things started improving dramatically.  I was getting a near mirror finish (first lesson) (photo 1).  I was really feeling smug as I never managed to get this type of finish (if I wiped it with a cotton rag I would actually scratch it).

Nearly finished with the flycutter but I was late for lunch and I must have been distracted because the flycutter hit one of the clamps which produced some deep gashes in the face (second lesson - never rush especially at the end of an operation).  I am sure there is a saying in English about people who rush but just can't remember it.

In the afternoon I went back to see exactly what I had done.  I could have lived with the gashes, after all this face was going to be clamped to the faceplate,  but as penance for my sin I decided to start anew and remove the gashes.

Finally finished. A whole day to face one side.  How I wish I had a larger lathe.

There is another saying not so cute but true


" There are only two things done in a hurry
1 Black finger nails
2 Babies  :whoohoo:
"
Stuart
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 10, 2013, 07:35:06 AM
That's a good one Stuart.

Bob, Jet-A1 is available here but only to airline operators as it is sold duty free so not available on the open market.  Every morning a fuel sample test for water contamination is done on each tank.  This involves draining some fuel from each tank.  The fuel is then disposed off.  I could ask for some of that but I would not like to get any of the guys or gals into trouble with the authorities.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on March 10, 2013, 05:52:54 PM
All part of the trials and tribulations Vince  ;)

I use methylated spirits (rubbing alcohol) with about 30% water added in for machining aluminium if I don't want to make a dry cut or get a fine finish.  Also for parting and threading/tapping.
The water makes it less volatile so there's less of a "hospital" smell, and also does not take the oil from the machines.  I especially like it for tapping blind holes in aluminium; once it's evaporated, the dry chips just fall out of the holes rather than clinging in there.
Just another option...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 12, 2013, 12:16:21 PM
In an earlier post I said that there could be a plan B for the flywheel.  Yesterday it arrived.  It is a cast iron (close grain) flywheel casting that I got from the UK.  It has a diameter of just under 8" and is 1.75" wide so it should be suitable for this model.  It cost nearly half of the lump of steel I am currently working on.  I oiled it up and packed it and will be keeping it in reserve.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200016.JPG)

In the meantime, I removed the flywheel from the faceplate, flipped it over and counterbored the four 8mm holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200017.JPG)

Refitted it back on the faceplate and cleaned up the face.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200018.JPG)

Next operation on the flywheel will need the subplate to be used so I will be working on preparing the subplate for the faceplate.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on March 12, 2013, 01:25:21 PM
Vince,
Nice to have a Plan B. In the meantime, it looks to me like Plan A is well in hand.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on March 12, 2013, 01:34:48 PM
Nice to know that it was actually cheaper to buy a casting rather than buy the lump of steel. Does the price comparison include cutting costs for the steel and the postage on the casting.

Good luck with plan A. If you fall back to plan B did you intend on using the casting as is or trying to make it look more like the original? On my Large S&P I took the rim off a commercial flywheel and put in new spokes and capped the holes in the rim with CI inserts (Which will not be visible as the wheel is painted :ThumbsUp:) .

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 12, 2013, 02:21:19 PM
Hi Tim

As the scouts say, : "Be prepared."

Jo,  my locally acquired lump with cutting cost me 75 Euro, whilst the casting including delivery (TNT) cost 42 Euro.  So as you can see it would have been cheaper and less work if I got the casting first.  Having said this, I do not know what the same lump of steel would cost in the UK, so I would suggest shopping around.  I will still continue making the original flywheel I have already started so as to learn the 'art' of making spoked flywheels.

Originally the casting I got was meant for a Stuart No.1.  It is very similar in shape to the Corliss flywheel the major difference being that the Corliss has 8 spokes whilst the casting has 6.  If I had to use it I would leave it as is and call it artistic liberty.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 14, 2013, 06:06:16 PM
Work on the aluminium subplate is complete.

Drilled and counterbored the three holes that will be used to fix the subplate to the rotary table and faceplate.  Did a trial fit on the rotary table.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200019.JPG)

Fitted the subplate to the face plate and centered it as much as possible.  Skimmed the side and the face of the subplate and then drilled and bored the 10mm hole in the center for the drawbar.

Made two registers; one for the hub in the centre and another one for the rim.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200020.JPG)

Fitted the steel flywheel to the subplate and it will be held in place with a drawbar.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200021.JPG)

Sorry but this photo came out a bit dark.  Hope that this fixture will work.  I do not know why but I am having visions of the flywheel slipping on the subplate.  There is only one way to find out.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on March 14, 2013, 06:22:17 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

 
Quote
I do not know why but I am having visions of the flywheel slipping on the subplate.
My quick and dirty suggestion would be to cut a ring from paper or thin cardboard stock to fit between the subplate and the workpiece to add more friction.
I've learnt to trust that gut feel...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 15, 2013, 02:49:21 PM
Thanks Arnold

I think you suggested something similar when I was doing the Kiwi conrod.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 15, 2013, 06:06:16 PM
Started hogging the other side of the flywheel.  No slippage up till now.  I made a witness mark between the flywheel and the subplate to check for slippage.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200022.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 18, 2013, 06:18:11 PM
Finally, lathe work on the flywheel has finished (phew).  Next to transfer the flywheel to the mill for making the spokes and maybe the barring gear.  I am still undecided where to put the gear.  The majority of the photos I have seen show the gear (teeth) on the inside of the rim but I have also seen some with the gear on the outside of the rim.  Any idea which option would be compatible appropriate with a Corliss?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on March 18, 2013, 07:08:08 PM
Hi Vince - good to hear you got that sorted.

Usually, though not always, barring gear on the outside is for moving the flywheel by hand with a bar. This can take various forms - square or round sockets, straight cut teeth etc. The bar can be just a separate long bar used by hand in a prising manner or can be part of a mechanism to maximise leverage which is built in to an engine. Normally, hand held prising type bars are only used on the outside type of rack.

Barring racks on the inside are also usually, but again not always, used with a barring engine where the tooth form will engage with a gear on the barring engine.

Only the very larger engines would have the barring engine fitted so I would say that the outside would do in your situation.

Others may have other views but I think that's the basics.

Glad you got the 'wheel turned - take care with those spokes - don't forget you need to offset the table to get the taper in  ;)

regards - Ramon

Edited
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on March 18, 2013, 08:29:23 PM
The teeth on my C3's barring ring arre on the outside  :ThumbsUp:.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 22, 2013, 06:11:09 PM
Thanks Jo and Ramon for the info.  Ramon I will be doing straight spokes not to complicate things.

I had to leave work on the flywheel for a couple of days as another job cropped up.  A work colleague asked me if I could make him a part and I couldn't say no.  It is going to be a part of a specialised (aircraft) iPad mount they are working on and a prototype was urgently needed to get it certified.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200023.JPG)

I advised him that I can do just the prototype and the rest can be easily made if they find somebody with a CNC lathe.  Besides I have more important things to do, like a flywheel.

Today I had some time to play around and continued work on the flywheel.  I need to drill and tap four 8mm holes in the subplate.  I used the four holes in the flywheel as a drilling template to mark the location on the subplate.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200024.JPG)

Removed the flywheel and started drilling and tapping the four holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200025.JPG)

I only managed to finish two of the holes.  I have a habit of protecting a freshly made tapped hole from swarf by screwing in an appropriate bolt.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200026.JPG)

No wonder my progress is so slow!!

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 23, 2013, 06:21:40 PM
I am getting closer to start milling the spokes.

Finished the remaining two holes in the subplate.  I then mounted the rotary table on the mill and clocked it in.  Reset the DRO X and Y to 0.  Mounted the subplate to the rotary table and dialed it in.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200027.JPG)

Fixed the flywheel to the subplate and checked that it was dialled in with the registers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200028.JPG)

I then used Don's excel sheet to mark the outline of the spokes by using a cutter diameter of zero in the excel sheet and a black permanent marker in the collet chuck.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200029.JPG)

One might say that this is all unnecessary or that I don't trust Don's work, but this is my first spoked flywheel and it helps me to see what I am doing.  After all, who was it that said, measure one, twice and thrice and then cut?

Seeing the spokes marked also helped me to decide what cutter diameter to use.  I will be using a 6mm slot drill.  Also I decided to increase slightly the inner rim (where the spokes meet the outer rim).

Vince

ps  I have to remember that each time before switching off the DRO I need to bring back the spindle home (X=0 and Y=0).
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: swilliams on March 24, 2013, 11:22:15 AM
Looking good Vince. I hope the spoke milling goes well for you

Steve
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 24, 2013, 11:42:04 AM
Steve

Quote
I hope the spoke milling goes well for you


I am hoping so also.  This morning I milled the first slot using a 6mm slot drill.  I was having problems with plunging the slot drill.  I guess the tool is not sharp anymore.  So instead I drilled a 5.5mm hole and did the plunging (0.5mm increments) in the hole.  Tomorrow I will get myself a couple of new 6mm slot drills but I think I will still use the hole like today.  Easier on the machine.

Machining the spokes is going to take some time to finish.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on March 24, 2013, 01:38:19 PM
It's looking good Vince. Are you going to pre drill the corner holes first before milling? Also give yourself some clean up material in your calculations. 
I can see your nervous about your first spokes. I know I was and I took it real slow. One of the problems I had was to think what direction to turn the handle to go the proper direction. I would get confused some times. I quess it's Just a mental thing when your nervous. Good luck buddy.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on March 24, 2013, 04:59:29 PM
Vince, like Don mentioned, pre-drill the holes with a smaller drill first - that helps a lot.

What I've done for spoked flywheels in the past is to leave about 0.2mm extra "meat" on the spokes and inside of the rim.  Then once the slots are milled through, I use an end mill at full depth to clean off the excess - this leaves the spokes much neater.

I don't recall exactly what kind of DRO you have...  Mine "remembers" the last position at power down, but that becomes inaccurate if the handwheels are turned while it is turned off.  It does have a feature though where there are "alignment" points built into the scales and these can be used together with some steps on the DRO to recall things if the DRO was set up to store them.  Tricky to explain, but the manual details the do's and don'ts.  Have a look in your DRO's documentation; maybe it has the same feature, and that can save a lot of heartache.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 24, 2013, 05:14:41 PM
Don

That excel sheet was a godsend.  Yes I am leaving some material for cleanup.

Arnold

The DRO I am using is a Shumatech DRO550 which I got as a kit and assembled and programmed myself.  It has lots of features which I have never used.  I just use it as a position indicator.  I do not think it will remember the last position because when I switch it on it always displays a slightly different position.  Maybe I should look in the manual and study it a bit but I guess I prefer making swarf then reading a manual. :embarassed:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on March 24, 2013, 07:47:24 PM
Vince, I hope you won't mind a bit of input here but I sense this may be a 'first time'.

I hope you won't mind me offering the following....

Once you have your datum set the table over the required amount and add 1mm to that dimension, then as you have already found out, to lessen the pressure on plunging the cutter drill a hole at one end of the spoke travel less 1mm.

Mill through (several passes) one side of each spoke first stopping 1mm short on the length.

Do all eight spokes on that same side.

Move over the other side and repeat.  The sides of your spokes are now defined.

Change your cutter for a nice new one then set the table to the correct offset dimension and apply the finishing cut. Once finish milled change back to that roughing cutter and do exactly the same only radially using the R/T for each pocket not forgetting of course to centralise the table.

Should you decide to do it this way I'm sure you will feel much more confident and less likely to overshoot than when doing each segment individually as a whole.

One other thing to give you some confidence is to ink the whole face up then plunge cut no more than a couple of thou and run round all your settings to begin with. That way if you do make an error it's only two thou deep and you can be ready for it next time when you put those first cuts on.

Hope you don't mind this input

Good luck which ever way you go about it  :)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 24, 2013, 10:00:57 PM
Ramon

Quote
Hope you don't mind this input

Any suggestion or plan of action is most welcome.

I have made two slots up till now and my plan of action is somewhat similar to what you suggested.  When cutting the two straight slots I left 0.3mm for clean up and I did the clean up as soon as the slot was finished.

I intend to leave the curved slot till the end.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on March 24, 2013, 10:14:10 PM
Hi Vince,
Sounds good so far  :ThumbsUp: Just another  point - the cutter will steadily wear particularly at the depth of cut of each pass so if you clean up 'as you go' that can effect the surface finish. By going round twice - once in several passes to get through then finishing with a fresh cutter at full depth you have a much better potential for a smooth uniform finish. You can of course take the cutter depth beyond the worn surface if there's sufficient clearance for the cutter holder.

Regards - Ramon

PS I think I would leave a little more than .3mm - thats a bit too close for not leaving much to come off if the cutter tends to pull to one side which sometimes happens  ::)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 31, 2013, 06:12:42 PM
Hi Ramon

All your suggestions have been taken onboard.  It would be stupid not to do it  :hammerbash:.  After all I have a very limited experience in machining compared to you guys and gals.

Just a quick update.

Still hogging out the spokes.  I guess I am nearly half way through.  It is a very slow process.  Each straight slot takes me about 2 hours to do and I only do one per session.  Up till now no bo-bos done and keeping my fingers crossed all the time.

I am waiting to see how Arnold and Jerry are going to fabricate their flywheels.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on April 01, 2013, 03:11:00 AM
Hi Vince,

Perhaps if you pre-drilled all round each cut out before you mill, it will be quicker and easier on the milling; and should reduce the chances of the mill pulling sideways as your only cutting the small part between drill holes.

Just a suggestion and I hope it helps.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 01, 2013, 06:19:30 AM
Bob

Before milling out a slot, I am drilling a hole at each edge of the slot.  Is that what you are saying?  Or are you suggesting I chain drill the length of the slot before milling?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on April 01, 2013, 07:27:47 AM
They say a pictures worth 1000 words: but then again they haven't seen me draw.

(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo340/Maryak/drill_zps275753ed.jpg)

I hope you get it OK.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on April 01, 2013, 07:30:30 AM
Vince, I think Bob means chain-drilling.

Leave enough "meat" between the drilled holes and the sides of the spokes just in case the drill wanders a bit.

Also, when milling out the last bits holding the "triangular" excess to the flywheel, be very careful.  It's best to stop just before final separation and break out the bit by hand and remove it, otherwise it could come loose and jam up and even break your cutter in the process.

Kind regards, Arnold

Bob beat me to it :)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on April 01, 2013, 08:04:57 AM
Or just drill a second hole near the ones you have already done so you can get a hack saw in and saw out the waste.

If chain drilling then drill so the holes join and then the waste will drop out before you start milling

Also what size milling cutter are you using to cut the slots? if its taking you 2hrs try switching to a narrower cutter so there is less load on the lathe meaning you can take a deeper cut per pass.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on April 01, 2013, 08:30:12 AM
Quote
If chain drilling then drill so the holes join and then the waste will drop out before you start milling

And how do you do that? Here's how - mark out your chain drilling hole centres 5/32 apart, drill em all through 1/8", now, got back with a 5/32 drill and open out every second hole, then, on the third pass, open out the holes you skipped in the second pass - the waste piece will fall free.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on April 01, 2013, 09:32:44 AM
Morning Guys - I saw Vinces post late last night but was just too tired to respond.

I don't want to appear contradictory or even controversial but I can't agree that Vinces only answer is to chain drill this out. In my experience chain drilling puts awful intermittent strain on milling, both on the job and on the cutter - besides if you have a mill theres simply no point in chain drilling which after all is the method used to remove internal areas if you haven't got a mill. If you really feel theres a need then it's probably best to plunge mill with a slot drill over lapping about a third of the cutter diameter at a time but even that would be a strange way to go about this given the kit available.

From the images above Vince has a perfectly good enough milling machine with which to carry out this task. Vince - if each slot is taking you 2 hours to acheive you are more than likely approaching this with too much caution.

First thing we need to know is what is the material ie En1a free cutting steel? Second is the diameter of the cutter and the rpm you are running it at and third is the depth of cut you are taking.
Another possible factor is how rigid is the set up on your R/T and how rigid the R/t itself is with the lock on

I see you have a tee slot set into the front edge of your milling table - do you have stops that run in this that you can use ? If so, unless you are already doing so, I would set these to give the length of cut you require to protect overshoot and use the table to mill and not the saddle.

Personally if I were doing this on my mill which looks to be a round the same size I would be using a 6mm cutter running at around 1500 or so for FC mild steel and a depth of cut around 1 - 1.25 mm with a fairly high feed rate carrying it out as described before. I don't know how thick your flange (the spoke material) is but if 10mm or so then 7- 8 passes should see you through in around  5- 6 mins ( that's a guesstimate not a calculation) - also I would not be using coolant on this except possible applied with a brush if felt really neccessary.

I appreciate you are at an early stage re machining Vince and the above is definitely not suggesting you 'rip into it' but it sounds to me you are being ultra cautious possibly due to your concern about making a mistake. Running a cutter too slow, particularly not enough feed can soon create wear too which then puts more pressure on the cutter.

May I suggest you revaluate your approach and mill an area well within the waste material to see if the above speed /feed suggestions improve matters somewhat. And definitely - if you have them but are not using them set the stops - that will give you much more confidence.

I have to go out now - Sues taking me shopping ::) -she feels I need a break from the workshop ::) ::)

Let us know how you get on Vince 

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 01, 2013, 05:37:30 PM
Thanks guys for all the tips on making life easier.

This evening I made another slot and I did it in half of the time.

I did not want to change the method I have become accustomed to up till now.  I have even learnt the DRO numbers by heart.  So I increased the RPM and the depth of cut as was suggested.

The material I am using is structural steel used in the building industry and is said to be S235 grade steel (don't know what it means).  All I know is that it is not hard to machine.  I am using a 6mm HSS slot drill.  Up to this morning I was using 1000RPM on the low range of the X3 and a 0.5mm DOC.  This evening I changed to 1500RPM on high range of the X3 and a 1mm DOC.  Lots of vibrations at varying feed rates.  This is not going to work and had already decided to go back on my original settings which worked.  I don't know why I reduced the RPM to 1200 and all the vibrations disappeared.  So this evening I did it with 1200RPM and a 1mm DOC.  Feed rate was when it sounded right.

Quote
you are being ultra cautious

Yes you are right Ramon.  I have been accused of that even at work. :Lol:  I have seen milling cutters break and ruining the part and since then I tend to play it safe.

Also I could not understand what you mean when you said:
Quote
and use the table to mill and not the saddle
Could you elaborate on this.  I am using the X axis with power feed to mill the slot.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on April 01, 2013, 05:55:43 PM
Hi Vince - That's a good improvement - sounds like your set up is not quite as rigid as I imagined - I wasn't trying to imply speeding up per se - it's much better to take your time and be in control so keep going as you feel happy with it  :ThumbsUp:

Sorry about the confusion - I meant of course what you're doing - use the X axis rather than the Y but mainly because you appear to have the facility to set stops.  I was not aware you have power feed - something I don't have. Just a thought but have you tried milling by hand and getting a 'feel' for the best feed rate then matching it approximately with the power feed ? You'd have to be pretty brutal to break a 6mm cutter with what you're doing  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 05, 2013, 11:54:21 AM
Some more progress on the flywheel.  Finished off the sides of the spokes and cleaned them up.  Also cleaned up the hub side of the spokes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200030.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200031.JPG)

I was thinking that if I had to do the barring gear on the rim this would be the ideal time to do it with the flywheel still solidly bolted to the subplate.  As it is, this weekend I will be abroad and I will have time to think about the barring gear.  If I do it, I know I will be using a 3mm mill for the slots and 90 divisions but I have no idea how deep I should make the slots.  Also it is still undecided if I should make the slots on the OD or the ID of the rim.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on April 05, 2013, 02:14:32 PM
Looking good Vince, and your almost there bud.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on April 05, 2013, 02:27:03 PM
Outstanding work Vince.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on April 05, 2013, 03:20:29 PM
Still following along regularly Vince, even though without comment recently. The flywheel is looking good and it looks like you gat a good finish on those "V" cuts. This has been a painstaking task I know but the results look well worth the time  and care you have invested !!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: swilliams on April 06, 2013, 11:40:26 PM
The flywheel is getting there Vince. Looks like the outcome will be top notch  :ThumbsUp:

Steve
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 06, 2013, 11:48:55 PM
Still following along regularly Vince, even though without comment recently. The flywheel is looking good and it looks like you gat a good finish on those "V" cuts. This has been a painstaking task I know but the results look well worth the time  and care you have invested !!

Bill

Ditto!

Still following along too!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on April 07, 2013, 02:07:06 AM
I'm still in for a pound as well. Patience will win out every time, so do not hurry to the finish line.


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on April 08, 2013, 01:02:32 AM
Vince,

Another background lurker who's always looking for the next post  ;D

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 09, 2013, 11:26:04 AM
Thanks guys for the support.

Finally back home.  Still undecided on the barring gear (rack).  So today I marked with a permanent marker 90 divisions (3mm wide) on the rim of the flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200032.JPG)

This helped me imagine better how it would look and made a decision to make it.  So the plan is to use a 3mm slot drill and mill the slots on the outside of the rim.  The slots will be 2mm long and as for depth, maybe 1 or 1.5mm.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 09, 2013, 11:32:37 AM
I'll be watching along!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on April 09, 2013, 11:40:08 AM
I'll be watching too Vince. Just curious if you have access to CAD? If so you could lay out a circular array of "teeth" and visualize possible other spacings (e.g 90, 120, maybe even 180).

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 09, 2013, 06:35:19 PM
Thanks Dave and Bill.  Bill, I do not have access to CAD so I have to rely on paper and pencil.

This evening I bit the bullet and milled out the barring rack.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200033.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200034.JPG)

I used a 3mm slot drill and the length of the slot is 2.5mm.  The depth is only 0.5mm.  Do you think this is OK or should I go down to a depth of 1mm?  This is just for looks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on April 09, 2013, 07:16:41 PM
I'd go deeper, 1.5mm minimum.

I know its a freelance engine but say it is 1/12th scale so 0.5mm would only make the notches 6mm deep, you are not going to locate a bar in such a shallow hole.

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on April 09, 2013, 08:21:29 PM
For reference Vince, my barring ring is 2.5mm deep.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 09, 2013, 09:47:29 PM
Thanks Jason and Jo for that.  I do not have any reference to go by so your suggestions are very welcome.  I will go deeper as you suggested.  This will also help me when I come to round off the edges of the slots.  First thing tomorrow will be to get me a new 3mm slot drill.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on April 10, 2013, 12:18:11 AM
Hey! That starting to look good Vince. Can't give you any advice, but I am here to keep moral up and to do the cheering bud.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on April 10, 2013, 05:29:00 PM
 :ThumbsUp:   More moral support from this quarter  :)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 14, 2013, 03:48:04 PM
Finished the barring rack.  I split the difference between what Jason and Jo suggested and made it 2mm deep.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200035.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200036.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on April 14, 2013, 03:58:28 PM
That came out great Vince. She's shaping up Bud. Are we going to attack and cut the arcs next?

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 14, 2013, 04:02:56 PM
That's the plan Don.  I am also searching for a simple barring bar mechanism.  Who knows, I might add that also.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 14, 2013, 05:00:54 PM
Looking great Vince.
I've been following along.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on April 14, 2013, 06:36:00 PM
Looking good Vince  :ThumbsUp:

I have no idea on the barring mechanism - but I'm sure you can figure something out. 

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 15, 2013, 05:18:37 PM
Today I spent most of the time at work debating on which method I should use to remove the flywheel segments.  I could mill it out with a 6mm slot drill or else chain drill it, remove the segment and then side mill it with a 6mm end mill.  I was worried that if I just mill it out the segment might break loose and make a mess.  Finally decided to chain drill it.

As soon as I came back from work I went to the garage to try out the chain drill method.

I first chain drilled the arc and removed the segment by hand.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200037.JPG)

I then cleaned up the arc using a 6mm end mill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200038.JPG)

It worked well it it did not take long to do.  Now I need to remove the other seven segments and the flywheel will be complete.  Still, I do not intend to rush this final operation as I would not like to ruin the part after investing so many hours on it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on April 15, 2013, 06:23:12 PM
Fantastic Vince!! Should be one sweeeeet looking flywheel once done.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on April 15, 2013, 06:58:44 PM
Hi Vince - it's looking real good.
 I feel your concern about the waste breaking loose but though there is the possibility it rarely happens however I do agree it can be nerve racking as that last bit of material gets thinner. A small magnet can help  ;)

Just a thought for another time perhaps,  have you tried plunging the cutter downwards then moving about 25-33% of the diameter and plunging again? It's surprising how quickly this will remove metal without the usual attendant cutting forces leaving very little to clean up after.

Another thing - hope I'm not poking my oar in too far here again - Unless you are planning on clamping on the rim it looks like you may be clamping across the spokes to hold down for doing the areas where the bolts now are - If so it might pay to turn up some little spacers that will just fit under the spokes to prevent stressing them when clamping down. My apologies if you've already considered that  ::).

Good luck with the rest - the barring rack is looking good too  :ThumbsUp:

regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: mklotz on April 15, 2013, 07:11:37 PM
Another approach is to mill until the waste is held on by only two slender (eg, 1/32") "tabs".  Then, with the mill off, snip the tabs with a pair of dikes, remove the triangular section and touch up the remaining burrs.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 16, 2013, 08:39:25 AM
Thanks Bill, Ramon and Marv.  Appreciate all the suggestions that you gave.

This morning the plan was to do another segment before going to work, but the wife reminded me that we have to take the older cat to the vet.  Oh well.

Thanks Ramon for the clamping concerns that you raised but it has been taken into account.  I have the option to bolt the flywheel to the subplate through the hub and also to clamp to the rim.

Quote
snip the tabs with a pair of dikes

Marv, I am assuming that "dikes" are some kind of metal snips or side-cutters.  Am I correct?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: mklotz on April 16, 2013, 04:17:28 PM
Yes, American slang for "diagonal cutters", e.g.,

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=3906408&PMAKA=891-6937
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on April 16, 2013, 09:24:17 PM
That's a relief!  :naughty:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: mklotz on April 16, 2013, 10:26:10 PM
That's a relief!  :naughty:

Well, that's what it means in most of the States.  Now, you get up in San Francisco or Hollywood and it means something waaay different.  Costs a lot more too.   >:D
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on April 16, 2013, 10:41:19 PM
'... be sure to wear some flowers in your hair'
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 19, 2013, 05:22:59 PM
Today I did an allnighter at work and spent the morning and afternoon feeling like a zombie.  On nights like this I wish I had applied for early retirement!!

I could not let a whole day go by and not do something on the flywheel.  Removed another segment and now only one remains with the last bolt holding it down to the subplate.  When I started removing the segments which had the fixing bolts, I started using additional clamping.  I used a 10mm threaded rod through the hub and bolted the hub down.  Before fitting the rotary table to the mill, I had fitted a special nut I had made on another project to the bottom of the rotary table.  This allows me to bolt parts to the rotary table through the centre bore and still be able to turn the table.

As an added precaution I added another clamp to the rim.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200039.JPG)

Tomorrow I will remove the last segment.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on April 19, 2013, 05:45:15 PM
7 down....one to go!!  Getting close now Vince.  What the plan for rounding the spokes?  Filing? Machining?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 19, 2013, 06:15:19 PM
Bill, I do not think I will be rounding off the spokes.  I will just deburr the edges.

Just for arguments sake.  How would one go about rounding off the spokes?  I can think of using a small radius cutter in the mill but suspect the end result would not be good.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on April 19, 2013, 06:19:56 PM
Vince, yes I was thinking maybe a small corner rounding end mill but have to agree with you, deburr and leave well enough alone :)  You have too much time in it now to end up with an unexpected and unpleasant result.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 19, 2013, 06:35:50 PM
That's looking great Vince!
 :praise2:
Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on April 20, 2013, 12:03:58 AM
Awesome Vince, she sure is looking sweet for your first flywheel.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on April 20, 2013, 12:59:14 AM
Great Flywheel Vince,  :NotWorthy:

After all that careful work, I too would leave well enough alone and just de-burr the edges of the spokes.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 20, 2013, 01:03:15 AM
Great Flywheel Vince,  :NotWorthy:

After all that careful work, I too would leave well enough alone and just de-burr the edges of the spokes.

Best Regards
Bob

Couldn't agree More!

 :NotWorthy:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on April 20, 2013, 01:28:38 AM
Really nice work Vince.

I have been following along; just not saying much.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 20, 2013, 12:48:41 PM
Very nice flywheel Vince. Very well done.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 21, 2013, 09:33:33 AM
Thanks guys for checking in.

Ta Da.  My first spoked flywheel carved out from solid.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200040.JPG)

Yesterday I removed the last segment but left the flywheel clamped to the subplate till today just in case I remember that I need to do some other operation on it.

Now for the clean-up.  The plan is that it will be primed and painted at some point but I would like to leave the outside and the sides of the rim bare metal.  So I set it up in the lathe to try and remove as much as possible the machining marks in these areas with emery cloth.  I suspect this is going to be a long slog.  Is there a quicker way of doing it?

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200041.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200042.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on April 21, 2013, 09:40:31 AM
Nice  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on April 21, 2013, 09:49:13 AM
Well done indeed Vince  :ThumbsUp:

 ;) No easy way...  my best bet would to be to start with coarse emery (about 180) backed by a steel rule or flat bit of wood, and work up through finer grades.  A couple of drops of thin oil on the emery helps to prevent it clogging up.

One could try flap-discs in a drill, but those would tend to round over the corners - not a biggy on the flywheel rim itself, but could wreak havoc on the barring cut-outs...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on April 21, 2013, 10:36:58 AM
Hi Vince - congratulations on a job really well done  :ThumbsUp:

Re the marks - you really will have a job to remove tooling marks with emery alone - even though Arnold's advice of diminishing grit is sound. Alternating by emerying across the wheel as opposed to around it ie turning it by hand and emerying across the tool marks bit by bit and then doing it by power will give a better result than just emerying under power as this can tend to deepen some of the marks already there.

If you have a nice flat smooth file you could try draw filing around it too - not under power though - if the file pins it will quickly give you more marks.

I don't know what the material is but unless it's something really 'claggy' that wont give a turned finish no matter what you do you would be better off taking a very small skim across first with a very sharp, largish radiused nose tool with good rake at very slow speed and feed - probably no more than 0.02/3 at at time and plenty of lubricant. If the finish does not improve within a couple of passes like that - it's probably the material so all you can do then is emery it but it is very difficult to take out tool marks over a big area with emery alone - though perhaps not not impossible definitely 'patience trying'.

Well done on a tricky bit of machining

Regards Ramon

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 21, 2013, 11:14:45 AM
What they said!......but I think the barring teeth will tear up the emory paper pretty quick if it's spun

Im also worried it'll sing like a banshee if you turn the OD.....which might send you backwards with chatter marks. but If I thought I could get away turning it I would....so....

So...I'd try the emory on a rule for first go....watch the fingers.. at least it won't chatter.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on April 21, 2013, 01:33:53 PM
I like to use a small 50mm velcro backed sanding disc run at slow speed in a cordless drill while the work is also turning in the lathe. The action of the disc sands across the ridges and as the work is constantly moving you don't get a flat spot, this method is commonly used for wood turning. Its also very good for blending in the facets when you are putting a crown onto a flywheel or pully

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/osc/50mm-soft-velcro-arbor-p-108.html
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on April 21, 2013, 01:52:10 PM
I like to use a small 50mm velcro backed sanding disc run at slow speed in a cordless drill while the work is also turning in the lathe. The action of the disc sands across the ridges and as the work is constantly moving you don't get a flat spot, this method is commonly used for wood turning. Its also very good for blending in the facets when you are putting a crown onto a flywheel or pully

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/osc/50mm-soft-velcro-arbor-p-108.html (http://www.peterchild.co.uk/osc/50mm-soft-velcro-arbor-p-108.html)

What Jason said, followed by a 3M mesh blending disk in the drill, followed by finer grits of W&D to bring up a dim glow.  I don't think a high polish is appropriate on a big flywheel.

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on April 21, 2013, 01:54:10 PM
Yes I tend to stop at about 400g which leaves a pleasing (to my eye) sating finish with a very fine cross hatch pattern similar to what you get whan you lap a cylinder.

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on April 21, 2013, 02:32:45 PM
I like to use a small 50mm velcro backed sanding disc run at slow speed in a cordless drill while the work is also turning in the lathe.

Hmmm - Nice one Jason - almost cylindricaly ground  ;) I shall certainly give that a try at some stage  :)

My moneys still on a skim though - at dead slow speed - bottom backgear even  - but I hear your concern over ringing/chattering Dave.

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 24, 2013, 11:12:06 AM
Thanks guys for all the ideas which I am sort of using.  Finished the rim outside and sides and at the moment working on the spokes.  I have used the Dremel sanding discs for the spokes but although they do a fine job at removing most of the machining marks they do not last long.

So I needed an unlimited supply of these sanding discs and possibly a little larger.  Had a look at utube to see what people are doing and got a couple of ideas.

I bought a sheet of wet and dry paper and on the back I affixed three layers of builders tape to stiffen it up a bit.  Using a stencil and pencil I marked the disc and cut it with a pair of scissors.  Voila, a sanding disc to my requirement and it takes less than a minute to make one.  They last a little longer and I can always trim a bit the worn out edge but best of all I can make as many as I want.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Corliss%200043.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on April 28, 2013, 11:05:30 AM
Spent this week cleaning up the flywheel and yesterday I sprayed it with a filler/primer.  It worked out really well.  If I had known how well this spray works I would have spent less time removing the machining marks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200044.JPG)

Should I give it another coat of primer?  I am going to leave it for now with the primer as still not decided on the final colour.

Vince

p.s.  I weighed the flywheel and it is 1.5kg.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on April 28, 2013, 12:02:22 PM
Thanks guys for all the ideas which I am sort of using.  Finished the rim outside and sides and at the moment working on the spokes.  I have used the Dremel sanding discs for the spokes but although they do a fine job at removing most of the machining marks they do not last long.

So I needed an unlimited supply of these sanding discs and possibly a little larger.  Had a look at utube to see what people are doing and got a couple of ideas.

I bought a sheet of wet and dry paper and on the back I affixed three layers of builders tape to stiffen it up a bit.  Using a stencil and pencil I marked the disc and cut it with a pair of scissors.  Voila, a sanding disc to my requirement and it takes less than a minute to make one.  They last a little longer and I can always trim a bit the worn out edge but best of all I can make as many as I want.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/Corliss%200043.JPG)

Vince

Nice tip Vince!   Thanks! :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on April 28, 2013, 02:53:50 PM
Fantastic job on the flywheel Vince. The primer looks a treat and only you know if another coat is needed. From you photo all looks good to go. That was a lot of metal cutting and you should be proud bud, well done.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 29, 2013, 02:06:11 AM
That's a beauty of a flywheel. Nicely done.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: cfellows on April 29, 2013, 02:25:30 AM
Very nicely done indeed!  Let's see, at an an average minimum wage in the U.S. of around $8.00 an hour, I'd guess you must have about $250 - $300 flywheel there, right?  Worth every penny as near as I can see!

Chuck
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Camm-1 on April 29, 2013, 06:14:32 AM
Great Vince! Must have been scary not to bend it or something. Watch you ;)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 01, 2013, 04:50:15 PM
Thanks guys for the support.  Today being a public holiday and also a nice day, I decided to take up an invitation I got from a guy a week ago, to see his collection of 117 engines.

Arrived at the place and after the usual pleasantries, was led to a large shed (understatement).  The large door was opened and the lights turned on and there in front of me to my amazement was a lifelong collection of full size engines (and I thought I was going to see model engines).  Most have been restored to working order and the rest are being restored.

The oldest is from 1896 (I think he said was a Dougal or something like that).  There were a lot of Listers (from one to four cylinder) and Rustons.  An Aeromotor engine (1906) which I think he said was an eight stroke engine and so many more which I can't just remember.

Spent the best part of six hours touring the collection and getting a private history lesson on many of the engines.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 01, 2013, 04:54:27 PM
Sounds like a very nice outing Vince....did you remember to take yoru camera? Any pictures would be most appreciated !

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 01, 2013, 06:01:01 PM
Would you believe it Bill, I had my camera in my pocket but totally forgot about it.  I guess I was mesmerized by the sight of full sized engines.  I have an open invitation to visit anytime so if anybody is interested I can take photos next time I go.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 04, 2013, 05:41:53 PM
During the last few days I did something else for the Corliss.  I wanted something simple to do after the flywheel and decided to do the crankshaft.  The shaft itself was done from a piece of 10mm silver steel that I had.  It fitted nicely in the flywheel so all I needed was to face it down to size.

Next I did the crankshaft arm.  A piece of mild steel was milled to size and two 4mm holes were drilled at the small and big end.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200045.JPG)

Some more milling....

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200046.JPG)

Then it was bolted to a piece of aluminium plate and with the rotary table the radius of the small end was done.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200047.JPG)

And then the big end ...

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200048.JPG)

And here it is still bolted to the plate...

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200049.JPG)

The hole at the small end was tapped 5mm and the hole at the big end was widened to 9.9mm.  Next, the crankpin was turned and the three items shown below.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200050.JPG)

Now I need to clean up the arm and pin and do some fitting as I want to get a press fit between the shaft and arm.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 04, 2013, 07:08:37 PM
 :ThumbsUp: Good going Vince - and great looking parts.

Might be useful for you: if you have a 10mm hand reamer (not machine reamer), it has a nice taper on it, so if you open up the hole in the web with that without going all the way through, you can get a nice press fit.  Just mark the side from which you started the reamer - that goes on the shaft first.
That's just my take on it - do what you think is best.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 04, 2013, 10:09:21 PM
Thanks Arnold for the tip.

Unfortunately, I do not have hand reamers, only machine reamers.  I was thinking of an adjustable reamer which I also do not have.  Being the usual miser I do not think I will be getting any reamers for this job but instead I will be using a lot of patience and some elbow grease to get a hand fit between the two parts.  I did some work this evening and I am not far away.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 04, 2013, 10:42:20 PM
Coming along nicely Vince!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 04, 2013, 10:52:28 PM
Alright bud, now you are on the way to making an engine at least now the flywheel is out the way. Jam up job on that part Vince.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 05, 2013, 12:48:00 AM
 Still following along Vince, and loving it all!!
Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on May 05, 2013, 03:37:01 AM
Nice Crank Vince  :NotWorthy:

I am really happy to see the engine we put so much effort into taking shape in real life. What's even better is the individual improvements each builder is making to the original. Please guys keep a record of these so that we can incorporate them into an update sometime in the future.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 06, 2013, 09:01:16 AM
Thanks guys for the support.

I have a stupid question. :help:

When the plans call for bronze as a material, is this this same as phosphor bronze??  I am asking because I got the impression from somebody I know locally, that there is bronze and then there is phosphor bronze.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on May 06, 2013, 09:08:47 AM
Hi Vince,

There are many different bronzes.

Manganese
Aluminium
Phosphor
and on

My fault and I'm sorry it should say Phosphor Bronze.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 06, 2013, 09:20:06 AM
Yep, phos. bronze is the one that is readily available from the bearing houses.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 06, 2013, 09:24:45 AM
Thanks Bob and Tel.

I was planning to use phospor bronze for the flywheel bearings but last week I was visiting a guy here and he had a lump of metal in his lathe and I asked if it was phosphor bronze.  He said that it's just bronze and the colour would be slightly different if it was phosphor bronze.  So it got me thinking (and yes I now that is not a good thing to do).

That shows you my level of inexperience  :'(.

Ok, now to figure out the size of the phosphor bronze round section I need to get for the bearing blocks and maybe the eccentric.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 06, 2013, 10:55:12 AM
Managed to finish the crankshaft today.  Cleaned up the arm and crankpin and then pressed the crankshaft into the arm.  I wanted to make sure that the shaft was perpendicular to the arm so started the pressing operation on the mill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200051.JPG)

When it started to get hard to continue pressing, I transferred the assembly to the hydraulic press and continued until the shaft became flush with the arm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200052.JPG)

This sucker is not going to go anywhere.

A shot of the completed crankshaft

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200053.JPG)

and one with the crankshaft in the flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200054.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 06, 2013, 11:33:54 AM
Looks like a winner to me Vince! :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 06, 2013, 11:36:33 AM
Looks most excellent to me Vince!!  Have you seleted a color scheme yet for the engine?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 06, 2013, 12:35:24 PM
Thanks Tel and Bill.

Quote
Have you selected a color scheme yet for the engine?

I wish I had.  I think I saw a model having a two tone colour scheme, with the big parts having a darkish colour and some minor parts in green.  Other than that I have thought of nearly all the colours of the rainbow but do not know which would be appropriate for the era of this model.  Any suggestions or colours photos are most welcome.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 06, 2013, 01:07:44 PM
Hi Vince - that's looking real good.

I read this a bit earlier and as I'm cleaning the lathe and mill of cast iron ready for lapping I thought I could help a bit more on the 'bronze' question.

The variety of 'brass' which includes bronzes must come second only to beer  :D

Within our scope however fortunately we don't have to worry about too many. As already said there several bronzes though 'Phosphor Bronze' can be a bit of a misnomer in this context of bearings.

I've taken the liberty of taking a couple of pics of some of the most likely candidates...

This is 'out of the drawer' state
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cHUPERwOBZ8/UYeW5iz_U3I/AAAAAAAAHmY/THJD6S-_CPw/s640/DSCF2821.JPG)

And this is after taking a cut
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xNl7Eha6Z8Y/UYeW8745hbI/AAAAAAAAHmg/AmU2udlSc9c/s640/DSCF2829.JPG)

The two bronzes - cast and drawn - suit different applications - the 'cast bronze' is perfect for bearings on a soft, unhardened shaft. It can be confusing as it sometimes gets referred to as 'Phosphor Bronze' and also as 'Gunmetal' It has much better machining qualities than the gunmetal used for castings not being anywhere near as soft.

The 'drawn' bronze is a different matter. Also referred to as Phosphor Bronze this should really only be used as a bearing when supporting a hardened steel shaft. It is much tougher and though I do use it on the big ends on the diesels the crankpin has to be highly polished to prevent any pick up which if it occurs will sieze it solid.

Though this bronze turns beautifully it can prove difficult to drill, tending to work harden much quicker that the cast variety leading to the work seizing on the drill. On all bronzes a really sharp tool is required but particularly so when drilling this specific material. I usually try to drill in one go then open the hole by boring - as said it turns superbly.

Personally however Manganese Bronze is my favourite for the application you need. Easy to machine and it has good wearing properties too but given your engine will probably never have to 'work' for a living ordinary half hard brass will do just fine too. If it's in conjunction with an En1a leaded steel shaft it'll be a long time before you need to remake anything ;)

Just one last point - to mill or turn any brass to achieve the best finish it's always best to use a tool that is freshly ground or brand new - if a tool has previously been used on steel, though it will work it will have a tendency to 'push' the metal leaving a very uneven and poor looking surface.

Hope this helps some - keep up with the fine work  :ThumbsUp:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 10, 2013, 10:16:20 AM
Thanks Ramon for that very informative post.

I have started work on the bearing blocks.  I bought a round (40mm) piece of phosphor bronze as I just could not find any square section.  The plan is to use the same material for the eccentric.  It was an old offcut and it was all oxidised.  I asked the guy a couple of times if it was phosphor bronze and he always said that it was.

Faced off one side and cut a piece from the parent stock.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200055.JPG)

Flycut the other face

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200056.JPG)

and sawed and milled it to extract a block from it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200057.JPG)

The plan is to machine both bearing blocks together and then split them with a slitting saw.

To my untrained eyes this material looks more like brass than phosphor bronze.  Compared it with another piece of phosphor bronze that I had and the colour is just not the same.  Maybe it is cast bronze when comparing it with Ramon's photos.  Whatever it is,  this is what I will be using.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 10, 2013, 10:31:32 AM
Hi Vince - that looks very much like drawn phosphor bronze to me - more a coppery colour than brass almost a pink tinge to it.

As said this is nice to turn with a freshly ground tool but be aware when drilling as  it gets hot very quick indeed and workhardens producing more heat and so on till the drill gets well a truly wedged. Some advocate step drilling with differing diameters - personally I prefer to drill one small pilot hole and take the rest out as big as I can in one go boring the remainder.

Technically I think I'm correct in saying that it should only be used - as a bearing surface - with hardened steel as there is a tendency for it to pick up with softer material - however at slow speed and plenty of lube you'll probably be okay.

Good luck with it  - keep those tools razor sharp and you'll be okay  :ThumbsUp:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on May 10, 2013, 04:55:12 PM
Ramon, what's the difference between your cast bronze, and "cast" bronze (3rd and 4th samples)? I see the bands are more pronounced on the former.

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 10, 2013, 06:55:45 PM
Hi Simon, as far as I'm aware there's no difference - I put them both there to show the different 'skin' 'colour' to give some idea of the ideal material for bearings.

As a basic guide if you treat brass as 'yellow' - bronze the same but with a more 'golden' tinge and phosphor bronze as pink it'll get you in the right area  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 11, 2013, 05:33:36 PM
Did more work on the bearing blocks.  Milled the block to size and then drilled the four 3mm mounting holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200058.JPG)

Next I drilled and reamed 10mm the bearing hole.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200059.JPG)

I stepped drilled the hole from 5mm to 9.8mm and then reamed it.  Did not encounter any grabbing problems during drilling.  I then marked the top of the bearing for some profiling.  I was going to use Arnold's facet milling method but I chickened out at the last minute.  I have never used this method so not really sure how to do it.  So tomorrow I will take the dividing head out and use that for the profiling.

Most probably after the bearings I will do the eccentric.  Could somebody point me to a thread having info on how to do it?  I have a plan (sort of) but would would like to see how the experts do it and pick up some ideas.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on May 11, 2013, 06:10:32 PM
Looks like things are moving along well Vince. Still watching.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on May 11, 2013, 06:13:39 PM
Comming along well, this may help with teh straps and the eccentrics follow on.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,705.msg8799.html#msg8799

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on May 11, 2013, 06:22:40 PM
Thanks Jason. I might need that link in the coming weeks  ;)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 12, 2013, 01:23:58 AM
Looking good Vince, things seem to be getting there one piece at a time.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 13, 2013, 10:16:41 AM
Thanks guys for looking in and Jason that is exactly the link I was looking for.

The bearings are finished.  Still contemplating if I should make some oil cups for them.

Yesterday I averted scrapping the bearings in the nick of time.  I plucked up some courage to try facet milling.  Somebody says that if one does not try then one will not know if one can.  Well in my case I definately can't.  In hindsight I should have tried it out on a piece of scrap.  For sure I have not understood the procedure.  Better luck next time.

Finally, some common sense kicked in and stopped just in time.  Instead I did some step milling to rough out the curve

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200060.JPG)

As can be seen, it is a bit flat at the top but with some filing and sand paper I managed to round it off.  Not a perfect curve but it will do.

I counterbored 8mm the area around the mounting holes

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200061.JPG)

and then seperated the bearings with a slitting saw.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200062.JPG)

After some more milling and sanding this is the final result.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200063.JPG)

And a try out with the crankshaft and flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200064.JPG)

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on May 13, 2013, 10:19:44 AM
Looks like you did fine to me!

 :praise2:

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 13, 2013, 12:00:26 PM
They look great to me too Vince!!  Most impressive.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on May 13, 2013, 12:39:14 PM
Excellent Vince, Your doing a bang up job.

  Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on May 13, 2013, 03:17:42 PM
Hello Vince, I've been following along as have many others and  must say that you are proceeding well. If I may ask, and you are willing to share, what was it that 'went out-of-bounds' for you while you trying were facet milling for the first time? The bearing blocks turned ot quite nice and I am looking forward to seeing more as the project moves forward. :ThumbsUp:


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 13, 2013, 06:06:52 PM
 :ThumbsUp: Looks great Vince !

Use whatever methods are easiest for you - and yes, it's always best to try now ones on scrap bits first.  The hardest part with the facet technique is to not undercut the corners  where the flat sections join up to the round-over...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 13, 2013, 11:50:55 PM
Thanks guys for the encouragement.

Quote
what was it that 'went out-of-bounds' for you while you trying were facet milling for the first time?

Jim, honestly I do not know what went wrong.  Obviously I do not have a full understanding of the procedure so I do not know exactly what went wrong.

I started off by clamping the bearing horizontal in the vice and took light cuts at the top of the bearing until I reached my desired top of the arc.  Leaving the endmill at the same height, I turned the bearing vertical to see were the arc would meet the flat section where the mounting holes are.  Warning bells started sounding as it was way off, but being a stubborn idiot  :hammerbash: I still did some milling and nearly ruined it.  Most probably I am missing something obvious  :Doh: but can't figure it out.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on May 14, 2013, 07:38:01 AM
The pin through the hole is best off half the dia of the hole so the part pivots about its centre line. Also as you get to the bolting surfaces you will need to move the cutter sideways.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 14, 2013, 08:53:18 AM
Hi Vince - nice work on the bearings - obviously you didn't have any problems drilling it  :ThumbsUp:

It's nice to see something coming together.

Keep on with this fine work

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 18, 2013, 11:30:06 AM
Not much done this week on the Corliss.  Work has been getting in the way and the temperature is starting to climb.  In other words the silly season is starting.  Got some good news from Cape Town where my eldest daughter is doing some fieldwork.  She was accepted to read for a Masters degree with Imperial College of London.  She already has a Masters in Chemistry but she decided to change direction and go for Conservation and hopefully continue with a Doctorate.  She is what I call a professional student.

Earlier this week I was going to start work on the eccentric strap but then noticed that I need some 2mm hardware (nuts and bolts) for it which I do not have and which is not available locally.  So yesterday I ordered some from the UK.  Also yesterday I found a piece of mild steel which can be carved out to make the outrigger bearing pedestal.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200065.JPG)

So today I started working on it but hit a snag.  Looking at the plans I could not find the dimension of the width of the 'I' section.  I hope it's not one of those  :old: moments.  So Bob or Arnold if you are reading this, can you chime in and tell me what it should be?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on May 18, 2013, 12:34:12 PM
It's one of those dimentions that is not critical so I would go with 1/4" based on the proportions of the other parts.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on May 18, 2013, 01:29:44 PM
Vince

The bearing stand on the other side of the flywheel that is part of the cross head support works out to be 1/4" for that portion of the vertical.  It seems to have a 1" wide base with 3/8" notches from either side leaving a 1/4" vertical.

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 18, 2013, 05:04:54 PM
Coming along well Vince.

Yes, the beam is 6mm / 1/4"

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 18, 2013, 05:12:10 PM
Nice bearing Vince, and looking at the close up of the flywheel, you have done a great job on it for your first one.    :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 18, 2013, 06:49:24 PM
Still looking good Vince. Sorry about the hardware issue, hope it wont take too long to get it.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on May 19, 2013, 07:31:35 AM
So today I started working on it but hit a snag.  Looking at the plans I could not find the dimension of the width of the 'I' section.  I hope it's not one of those  :old: moments.  So Bob or Arnold if you are reading this, can you chime in and tell me what it should be?

Vince

Vince I see you have had plenty of help with the missing dim. Another BBB, (bob boo boo).

Attached is an amended PDF

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 21, 2013, 05:09:36 PM
Thanks guys for the response.  6.35mm (0.25") it is.

Quote
Another BBB, (bob boo boo).

Bob I am just pointing these out so maybe you can fine-tune the plans especially for newbs like me.

Also I do not think I have mentioned it before, but when doing the mounting holes for the bearings, instead of 0.125" from the side, I did it 3.5mm as I think the head of the bolt will sit better on the bearing.  I am using 3mm bolts which are slightly smaller than 0.125" bolts.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 21, 2013, 05:29:53 PM
Outrigger bearing pedestal is finished.

Like the big bad wolf, I huffed and puffed to get that piece of steel like this:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200066.JPG)

I then milled the "I" section to dimension.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200067.JPG)

Then drilled the four 3mm clearance holes

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200068.JPG)

It was then cleaned up and the bottom corners of the pedestal rounded of freehand.  A couple of coats of primer and this is the result:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200069.JPG)

I did not clean it up as much as I did for the flywheel just to see if this primer I am using will hide light machining marks.  It sure does and it is good to know.

And the final family shot with the bearing sitting on top of the pedestal:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200070.JPG)

Still haven't received the 2mm hardware for the eccentric strap so next I will experiment with a side project for the Corliss involving a glass tube I have sitting here.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 21, 2013, 08:27:37 PM
You done good Vince - nice looking part, again!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on May 21, 2013, 08:51:40 PM
Nice part  :ThumbsUp:

Are you going to add an oil way in the middle of the bearing? (Or is the photo obscuring it  :facepalm2:)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 21, 2013, 09:13:19 PM
Thanks Tel and Jo.

Up till now, the bearings are exactly as per plans.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 22, 2013, 01:55:35 AM
Looks like you put a lot of time into that part Vince, but it payed off. Looks good bud keep up the nice work. Still following with great interest.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 22, 2013, 06:09:48 PM
So this is what I started with this morning:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200071.JPG)

A length of 4mm glass tube with a 2mm ID and a glass tube cutter.  The idea was to try and make a miniature oiler for the bearings.  On the plans there is no facility to oil the crankshaft (maybe there is no need) but on the metric plans made by JULIUS there is an oil hole on each of the bearings and eccentric.

So I tried to cut a piece of glass tube with the cutter.  Piece of cake.  Then I tried to cut a short piece (4mm) and that's when I started to get problems.  As it was too short to be supported by both sides of the cutter it would crack.  Tried to insert a piece of BMS in the tube to support it but still no joy.

So off to the lathe.  The tube was lightly gripped in the chuck and a Dremel cutting disk (I did not have a diamond disk) was used to cut the tube.  Success, but the piece could not be found as it flew in oblivion.  Another piece was cut with the same result.  Third attempt, but this time I inserted a matchstick in the tube.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200072.JPG)

It flew again but not so far and with the matchstick was easy to locate.

The metal parts of the oiler were made from brass.  The thread is 3mm and the through hole is 1.5mm.  Sorry no drawings.  Everything was made on the fly.  The glass tube is fixed to the bottom with superglue (hope it holds) and the top with blue-tack.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200073.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200074.JPG)

Then I remembered that when I separated the bearings,  a 5mm piece remained.  So to give me an idea how it would look, I fitted the oiler to this bearing scrap.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200075.JPG)

I am not certain that it looks OK scalewise.  The jury is still out considering the verdict.  Most probably I will make another two oilers and hold them in reserve until a decision is made.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 22, 2013, 06:30:39 PM
Great stuff Vince  :ThumbsUp:

I'd say the oiler looks just about right, but then again, I've not seen an engine like this in real life, so it's a pretty subjective guess.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 22, 2013, 07:30:13 PM
That looks fine to me scale-wise Vince. I am not sure what blue tack is, but does that allow you to remove the top to fill it with oil? Its just thes kinds of small details that make an already nice engine a real showpiece!!!  Besides that the little oiler is just darn cute !!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 23, 2013, 08:58:22 PM
Thanks Arnold and Bill for the comments.

Today I did the parts for the other two oilers.  Fiddly little bits.  It took less time to do them then the one I did yesterday.  Still not decided what to do with them.

Quote
I am not sure what blue tack is


It's a rubbery reusable adhesive (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack).

Vince
Title: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on May 23, 2013, 09:43:29 PM
Cutest oiler I've ever seen.  Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on May 23, 2013, 11:52:07 PM
Things are still looking good Vince. I think that the oilers are to scale, compared to the shaft size,  :ThumbsUp:  It took me a few long seconds to figure out what that gizmo in your first picture was and then I realized it to be a tubing cutter. Can't say that I have ever seen one, but, in my defense, I don't do a great deal of glass work.  :happyreader:  Just wanted to let you know I'm still following along.


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 24, 2013, 05:46:45 AM
Thanks Hugh and Jim.

Jim you gave me a great idea.  Why did I not think of it?? :facepalm2:  Today, before going to work, I will put the scrap bearing with the oiler on the flywheel and crankshaft assembly and it should give me a better idea how it looks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on May 24, 2013, 07:16:32 AM
That was a nice way of cutting the glass tube  :ThumbsUp:

Cutting the glass that way looks much better than the way I did it on the DTC. I thought about putting the glass in the chuck but was concerned about crushing it. How did you hold the cutting disk ?

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 24, 2013, 09:50:47 AM
Jo

Tomorrow I will take a couple of posed photos of the setup.  The setup is still intact so it will not be a problem.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on May 24, 2013, 11:41:13 AM
  Now that is really a slick way of solving a problem. Way to go Vince. That oiler looks really good.
 You're coming right along with this.

  Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 24, 2013, 01:44:55 PM
Nice work on the oiler Vince - still following along  - it's all looking very good indeed  :ThumbsUp:
Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 25, 2013, 01:45:31 AM
I really like how those oilers turned out Vince. They sure are small looking at them on the bearing block. She's looking good bud.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 25, 2013, 12:21:40 PM
Thanks guys and Jo for the comments.

Jo, as promised these are the photos for the glass tube cutting setup.

When I did the other two oilers, I used a 4mm collet instead of the 3-jaw chuck as it was already fitted.  I think it holds the tube better.  Only hand tight to avoid breaking the glass.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200076.JPG)

Don't laugh.  Yes I know it's a bit crude.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200077.JPG)

Here the cut was done with the dremel still attached to the toolpost.  It's not a clean cut.  What I did was to start with the dremel attached to the toolpost and then for the last bit of the cut, I would handhold the dremel and very lightly touch the groove that was previously made.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200078.JPG)

And here the finished oilers, two of them still needing assembly.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200079.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 25, 2013, 12:30:46 PM
Thanks for those pics Vince.  Crude or not, it worked well. Did you have to polish the ends any after cutting them off and if so how did you do that?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 25, 2013, 01:01:38 PM
Bill, cutting it freehand always gave me a clean cut. If the cut was not clean like the one shown previously, then it can be polished with a 100 grit sand paper.  With a little more patience one can also reduce the length of the tube with the rough sand paper.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 25, 2013, 01:07:17 PM
Thanks Vince, the ones in that last picture look really smooth which is why I asked. These will sure add a lot to the model I think!!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on May 25, 2013, 01:24:29 PM
Nice trick with the glass Vince...I've never had luck cutting glass tube before....that looks like it's a slam dunk!

 :praise2:

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on May 25, 2013, 02:41:20 PM
Thanks for posting that Vince.

That worked a treat  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 25, 2013, 08:03:22 PM
Strewth Vince - you need to make yourself one of these for Dremel holding purposes!  ;D
(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1526.0;attach=5592;image)

(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1526.0;attach=5594;image)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 25, 2013, 08:46:59 PM
Tel the photos are not displaying, but I suspect I know what you mean.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on May 25, 2013, 08:57:08 PM
Any better?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 25, 2013, 09:42:30 PM
That did it tel. Bit big probably for my sherline, but could possibly adapt one of the smaller cordless dremels.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: mklotz on May 25, 2013, 10:01:58 PM
That did it tel. Bit big probably for my sherline, but could possibly adapt one of the smaller cordless dremels.

Dremel used to make a tool with a permanently attached flexible shaft which terminated in a nice cylindrical handpiece ideal for attaching to a toolpost.  I have one and it worked...sort of.  The bearings have a lot of endplay so it's less than perfect.  Next time I need to do something like this I'll use my Foredom which has much better bearings.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 25, 2013, 10:34:48 PM
Hadn't thought of the flex shaft Marv. I have one for a newer dremel and a good cylindrical handpiece for the foredom too. Will check that out.

Bil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 25, 2013, 10:41:08 PM
Me too.  I always forget that I have the flexible shaft for the Dremel.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: mklotz on May 25, 2013, 10:53:12 PM
Hadn't thought of the flex shaft Marv. I have one for a newer dremel and a good cylindrical handpiece for the foredom too. Will check that out.

Box outside think must. - Yoda
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 26, 2013, 04:55:28 PM
Quote
Box outside think must. - Yoda

May the force be with you - Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 26, 2013, 05:24:21 PM
Well, yesterday I started work on the eccentric strap, sort of.  I cut a slice of bronze from the same material I used for the crankshaft bearings and faced off both sides.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200080.JPG)

Sometimes I suspect that this material is not bronze but oilite.  After a surface is machined it always feels damp and slippery.  I remember the guy asking me if I was going to use it for a bearing.

I have been studying the way Jason made his eccentrics in the link he gave me and I picked up a lot of tips (thanks Jason).  Unfortunately as my eccentric is much smaller, I can't do it exactly like him.  So the rest of the day has been spent mostly in planning a sequence of operations that I need to do.

I printed the plan of the eccentric in 1:1 scale, cut it out, and placed it on the bronze disc to have a better idea of what material I have to play around with.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200081.JPG)

Lots of material, so it's not going to be a tight squeeze.  Then I remembered the third oiler which was meant to be for the eccentric.  I must plan for a flat surface on which it will mount.  I followed Jason's footsteps and scribbled the mounting surface on the plans, which can be seen coloured in on the right.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200082.JPG)

Do you think this is OK?

Vince

p.s.  I just noticed that this is page fifteen of this build log and only a handful of parts have been made.  I like the log to serve me as an interactive diary also.  So if you think that I am going into much detail I can cut down.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on May 26, 2013, 05:41:26 PM
you're doing fine Vince, keep posting.

 Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on May 26, 2013, 08:20:47 PM
Vince I'm digging all of it. I think it's the detail we all like. And besides I don't think we have a  thread size limit. Keep them cards and letters coming in my opinion. :cheers:

Yo Redneck,
Eric
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 26, 2013, 08:41:20 PM
Looking good to me too Vince,keep it coming bud.  :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on May 26, 2013, 08:58:47 PM
No worries Vince..take your time, but keep the details coming.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on May 26, 2013, 09:06:44 PM
Keep doing what you are doing Vince. We love the pictures :Love:  and the narratives make good reading material as well :happyreader: .  Besides, crafting these engines from scratch is a science unto itself and takes a bit of time for one to work out the details. That is of course, unless you are one of those that seems to churn them out at breakneck speeds. :headscratch:  *ahem* no names, just sayin'. :Lol:  I'll be monitoring your progress and admiring from afar.  :ThumbsUp:


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: cfellows on May 27, 2013, 08:42:51 PM
Hey Vince, wanted to let you know that I tried some of that Plastikote filler/primer on my Fairbanks engine.  Love how that stuff goes on and covers.  Don't know how well it sticks, but it sure looks great when it's sprayed on.

Lovely job on this Corliss.  Absolutely first rate workmanship.  You're going to have a museam quality piece when you're finished.

Chuck
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 27, 2013, 09:13:36 PM
Thanks guys.

Chuck, that spray really does a good job at covering scratches and machine marks.  Infact before I sprayed the outrigger pedestal I left marks on purpose just to see if it covers them up.  Up till now I have used two coats of primer because with one coat it seems too thin.  Could you give me your impression when you have given it the final coat of colour?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 28, 2013, 10:56:21 AM
p.s.  I just noticed that this is page fifteen of this build log and only a handful of parts have been made.  I like the log to serve me as an interactive diary also.  So if you think that I am going into much detail I can cut down.

Like the others, I don't. An interactive diary it is and should be and can be enjoyable to reread in the future (just like a diary).

A long thread with lots of replies, comments, suggestions, etc. is a measure of how interesting (and educational) it is. Not that shorter threads can't be. Depends on the subject of course.

Following along.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 29, 2013, 06:07:51 PM
OK Zee but don't complain later on. :cheers:

Some progress on the eccentric strap.  So, I first hacksawed the slice of bronze through the middle.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200083.JPG)

Then cleaned out the hacksaw marks by milling both halves together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200084.JPG)

Held both halves on a granite plate with a toolmakers clamp and started marking it out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200085.JPG)

Started milling and step milling to rough it out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200086.JPG)

And here are both sides roughed out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200087.JPG)

Clamped them together in the vice and drilled the two 2mm holes for the bolts.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200088.JPG)

And here it is bolted together.  Fiddly little things those 2mm nuts and thin nuts.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200089.JPG)

Next time I hope to drill and tap for the oiler and also for the eccentric rod.  The tapped hole for the eccentric rod should be a blind hole 4mm deep (if my memory serves me well).  If I'm lucky I might have maybe about 2.5mm of well formed threads in that hole so I asked Bob if there is any negative effect in making it a tapped through hole instead.  Bob said that it should be OK as long as the rod does not interfere with the sheave.

Also, I am thinking that when I come to bore out the hole in the strap, I might use the boring head in the mill instead of clamping it in the 4 jaw chuck as it looks fragile to hold it in the chuck.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on May 29, 2013, 06:31:50 PM
Lookin` good, Vince.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 29, 2013, 07:05:37 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

"Fiddly little things those 2mm nuts and thin nuts."
 :Lol: You'll get used to them after a while...  When I built my first engine the M3 screw it used on the crank was unbelievably small; in fact I complained about that.  Now M3 feels large, M6 huge, and anything bigger than that monsterous.

Have you decided what threads you're going to use for the valve linkage rods ? - M2 will work, but look a bit on the "clunky" side.  Even the 10BA I have is a bit on the large side there...  Been thinking about making them M1.6; I've got taps for that, but I'd have to single-point thread the rods, as I don't have a die nut to thread them.  That could make for an interesting shop session  :LittleDevil:

Like Bob said, a through-hole wouldn't be a problem; just de-burr it well in the eccentric bore.  The eccentric itself also has an M3 (for us metric heretics) hole through it to mount it to the crankshaft, but even as these two holes pass each other in operation there won't be any problems, as the contact area for the eccentric and strap is quite large.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 29, 2013, 07:28:52 PM
Thanks Tim and Arnold

Quote
Have you decided what threads you're going to use for the valve linkage rods ?

Are you talking about those 4 small arms that connect to the valve spindle?  In that case I worked it out at 1.6mm.  Are there taps and dies this small??  Did not think of this.  Must start worrying about it. :facepalm:

Vince

p.s.  just found a source for them so they exist.   :whoohoo:  Got me worried for a while there Arnold. :thinking:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on May 29, 2013, 07:37:00 PM
These might fit the bill.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330911772227?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 29, 2013, 07:42:53 PM
Thanks Phil

I was just now at their site (chronos) but was looking at individual taps and dies and not sets.  That set could be good value for money.  I have to remember that.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on May 29, 2013, 08:17:15 PM
I'd rather go for split dies than the ones in that set so you can adjust teh fit of the thread. All my ones down to 1mm are the split type

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on May 29, 2013, 11:10:57 PM
Jason

I have to agree with you on that one, where would you get split dies from in those small sizes at reasonable cost.
I am wanting some M1.2 and possibly M1.0 taps and dies for parts of the Corliss valve gear on Agnes.

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on May 30, 2013, 08:08:11 AM
I bought mine as "loose" 1.0 to 10.0mm set from Tracy Tools when I first go into model engineering so quite a while ago but they would certainly be one source for both singles and sets.


http://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/metric-taps-dies

Tap Die also do them but at silly prices

These are mine from Tracy

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 02, 2013, 11:29:08 AM
I've been beavering away at the eccentric strap and the plan was that yesterday it was supposed to be finished.  But as you know, plans sometimes go astray!

Yesterday morning I received a message from a guy here asking me if it's possible to go give him a hand.  I knew what this was going to involve and I told him that I'll be there in 30 minutes.  We had to lift a 60 year old 2 ton Petter-Fielding two cylinder diesel engine (80HP), prop it up and then slide the new 200kg base under it and bolt the two together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_Petter-Fielding0079.jpg)

And the inspector checking bolt torquing operation.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_Petter-Fielding0080.jpg)

With this new base he can fit the flywheel and continue repairing the engine.  He also showed me his latest acquisition; a two cylinder diesel engine with four pistons.

Well to come back on topic.  Earlier this week I bored out the eccentric strap.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200090.JPG)

And this is after boring.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200091.JPG)

So today I nearly finished work on it.  First I made a mandrel so that I can solidly hold the eccentric in the rotary table and clocked it up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200092.JPG)

Next two photos show how the mandrel is going to hold the part.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200093.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200094.JPG)

Then I started cleaning up the outside of the strap with a 3mm endmill

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200095.JPG)

Then cleaned up the sides of the mounting lugs.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200096.JPG)

Then the 3mm tapped hole for the eccentic rod was made and this is the state of play of the eccentric.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200097.JPG)

All that remains is to drill for the oil hole and then give it a good deburr and clean up.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 02, 2013, 02:07:12 PM
Nice setup for your eccentric strap Vince. The inspector looks like he's serious about his work.  :ROFL:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on June 02, 2013, 02:12:44 PM
Nice job on the eccentric Vince!    Very well done!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on June 02, 2013, 05:56:48 PM
Looking good Vince...an I like the inspector too. That diesel is a big chunk of iron for sure.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 02, 2013, 06:41:18 PM
Thanks guys.  Slow progress but at least moving forward.

Bill, that engine has another seven sisters here.  They were used to power secret underground flour mills.  He managed to save it before it went for scrap and is now restoring it.  He already restored another one in the video below which is, one could say, another snippet of our colourful history.  Enjoy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92CJLNaXzUg

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on June 02, 2013, 07:59:32 PM
Thanks Vince....great video!!
Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 02, 2013, 11:08:51 PM
Wow! Awesome piece of History Vince, thanks for sharing.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on June 03, 2013, 07:32:39 AM
Thanks for the video Vince  :ThumbsUp:,

It is a sad fact that in the past it was necessary to build such facilities as these, nice to see one being restored. Lets hope they are never needed again in the future.

Jo
Title: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on June 03, 2013, 08:36:36 AM
Vince, that is really interesting, to think that 4 underground flour mills were built. Do they still work? To think, it's been so easy for people where I live. Thanks for showing that.

Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 03, 2013, 09:09:59 AM
They didn't give Malta and it's people the George Cross for their Good Looks, they went through absolute hell during WWII.(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Respect/number-one-043.gif)


Best Regards
Bob

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 03, 2013, 07:26:46 PM
Lovely job on the strap Vince  :NotWorthy:

 :) Sorry about the late reply on the small taps & dies; others have answered that admirably.  The smallest metric ones I've seen available are for M 0.8...  George Britnell used M1 for his small engines.  I got my M1.4 and M1.6 taps through my optician.  In fact, I've got an appointment for next Monday for my annual check-up, so I'll ask him about die nuts as well, and maybe try and wrangle some screws in the process; it seems in the "metric" countries spectacles all use small metric screws.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on June 03, 2013, 09:07:50 PM
Nice going Vince.  :whoohoo:

 Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 03, 2013, 09:21:11 PM
Thanks guys and Jo for the interest.

Quote
Do they still work?

Hugh, as far as I know the one in the video is the only one that has been restored to working condition.  As for the rest,  I really do not know what happened to them.

There was a mini discussion on Arnold's thread on ways to fix the flywheel to the shaft. As I do not want to hog that thread I am going to continue the discussion here.  Using grub screws is the simplest way to do it but not really keen on it.  Keyways, in my little experience has been a hit and miss affair.  Tapered collets - done that on the Kiwi and they are a pain to remove.  So I have been thinking about it for quite some time now and as Baldrick would say, "I have a cunning plan". :lolb:

I would have liked to present you with a drawing for your consideration, but even a five year old can draw better than me.  So what I will do is make one and then you can tell me if it will work or not.  Below is a rough sketch using Windows Paint just to give you an idea.  A bolt through the slot will clamp it to the shaft and the three holes in the disc to bolt it to the flywheel hub.

Vince

p.s.  I will not be offended if you think this is the worst idea since .................
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 04, 2013, 12:16:30 PM
This is what I am talking about.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200098.JPG)

I made a rough prototype to see how it looks.  I think it should work.  I will not make the part for now because I do not know exactly how much distance is available between the flywheel hub and the bearing.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on June 04, 2013, 01:01:07 PM
I like that Vince, it should positively lock the flywheel to the shaft, be easy to remove or adjust as needed, and best of all, grub screws won't mar the shaft itself or cock the flywheel as sometimes happens to give that dreaded "wobble" effect. The only suggestion I would have is to use a SHCS rather than a hex head for the clamping screw since it may be tight getting a box end wrench in there, and there may not be enough clearance for a socket wrench.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 04, 2013, 04:58:43 PM
Yes Bill, that is definitely a good idea.  I can counterbore the disk for the SHCS to make it less visible.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 07, 2013, 05:45:26 PM
Well I have finally finished the eccentric and that thing in the middle (is it called sheave?).  Photos will be posted tomorrow.

I just wanted to ask one of my silly questions.  I was thinking of doing the eccentric rod next.  I was first thinking of fabricating it with two pieces.  A 3mm rod threaded at one end and the head (which attaches to the lever) and silver soldering them together.  Now, I was thinking of doing it slightly differently.  The same rod with both sides threaded and a lock nut for each side and the head tapped for the rod.  This way I am thinking it will give a little adjustment leeway.

Does this make any sense?  Is it a good idea to do it this way?

Thanks again for all your patience.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on June 07, 2013, 05:58:34 PM
Vince, yes it makes sense and sounds like a good plan to me. Just keep in mind that the hub (threaded part) of the clevis may have to be extended some to give you the deisred adjustment without the threaded rod extending so far it interferes with the slot.  Looking forward to the update pictures.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 07, 2013, 09:33:01 PM
Vince

Unless you use a left hand thread at one end, you won't get any more adjustment than if you only thread the rod at one end.  What you give at one end, you lose at the other.  The finest adjustment that you can get is 1/2 of the screw pitch.   Or you can do as I have done and use different pitch threads at each end.   Then you can achieve infinite adjustment

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 08, 2013, 03:48:29 AM
Great Idea Vince, especially if you incorporate Captain Jerry's multi pitch threads.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 08, 2013, 07:22:51 AM
Jerry and Bob

Let me see if I understand with a practical example.  So you are saying that I should make a 3mm course thread on one side of the rod and a 3mm fine thread on the other.  Is this what you are suggesting?

On the real big engines did the eccentric rod have any type of adjustment?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on June 08, 2013, 07:51:57 AM
Yes Vince,

I have used coarse/fine threads on each end of an adjuster on some of my engines to overcome the lack of left hand taps/dies :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 08, 2013, 08:51:48 AM
Hi Vince,

On 12" : 1 ft engines...........The eccentric rod has a foot, which bolts onto the strap which runs on the eccentric sheave, (fancy word for pulley), which is keyed to the crankshaft. The length is adjusted by means of either inserting or removing shims from under the foot. The sheaves are made in half and the halves bolted together from hollowed out sections in the top half. Otherwise it could be a bit of a problem trying to fit them in between the cranks  ;D

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 08, 2013, 11:55:13 AM
Thanks Jo, Bob and Jerry for the tip on multi-pitch threads.  I did not know it.

Unfortunately, I do not have a 3mm fine pitch tap and die, so I have to think about it.

As promised yesterday here are the photos of the eccentric sheave.  The only material I had in 1" diameter was 316 stainless.  I was a bit hesitant in using it as I have seen many people complain that it is not that easy to work with.  But that is what I had and decided that might as well give it a try.  Chucked a piece in the lathe and to be sure used a new insert in my Q-cut parting tool.
 The tool complained a bit until I found the correct pressure to apply.  Made the groove about 0.5mm oversize and then with small cuts moved the parting tool sideways in the groove to get close to the desired depth. Then it was slowly fitted to the strap using emery paper.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200099.JPG)

Off to the mill, the off-centre hole was drilled and reamed.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200100.JPG)

The 3mm tapped hole for the grub screw was made next (was extra careful during tapping) and the piece was again taken to the lathe where it was parted off and cleaned up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200101.JPG)

Well, it was a positive experience machining 316 stainless.

And the finished eccentric:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200102.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 09, 2013, 07:38:38 PM
Well, until I decide which method to use for the eccentric rod, I started on the clevis head of the rod.  Setup up the dividing head on the mill and clocked it up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200103.JPG)

Had a bit of a scare, as when I was fitting the DTI to the chuck it fell to the floor and the mechanism jammed.  I carefully opened it up and released the jam. 

Milled two of the sides and drilled a 2mm hole for the pin.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200104.JPG)

I then made the slot using a slitting saw,

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200105.JPG)

then milled off the other two sides.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200106.JPG)

I have a habit, before taking the part out of a chuck, I have a final look at the plans.  Good thing I did it because I noticed that an exact clevis head is required for another rod.  So I turned the part around and made another clevis.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200107.JPG)

They still need the ends to be rounded off and then to be separated.

Vince
Title: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on June 09, 2013, 08:55:03 PM
Vince, your parts are looking great. Love the little oilers.

Proper eccentric straps look a right pain to do from the solid. I need to do one for my simple mill engine. Stew has simplified it so can be done without a mill, but that makes the sheave more complex. Not sure whether to have a go at a proper one, maybe even a fabrication.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 09, 2013, 08:56:10 PM
Nice bit of work Vince. The eccentric is a work of art bud, I just love the little oiler cup touch. The clevis looks grear too. And like you I try to recheck the plans before removing anything from the chuck. I got caught one to many times.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 10, 2013, 09:25:17 PM
You're coming along just dandy Vince  :praise2:

The stainless could be a pain; I've had that in the past  :-X , but it seems like it just likes a positive attitude toward machining to get a good job done  ;)

 :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: I also love the oilers!!!

Like you, I don't have a good selection of taps and dies to make the differential thread from...  I've set a sub-brain cell working on that process, but its one of those slow little buggers that won't necessarily return any cohesive response  ::)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 11, 2013, 08:14:11 AM
Thanks Nick, Don and Arnold for the encouraging words.

Arnold, I only buy taps and dies as and when needed only so like you not a huge selection.  I have cut the rod for the eccentric rod oversize and stored it with the eccentric.  I think it will be best to leave it for now until I have other parts of the engine finished and then I can fit the eccentric with the rod and have a better idea of the length required, especially if I use the original plan of silver soldering the clevis head to the rod.  I haven't given up on the idea of the multi-pitch rod using 3mm course on one side and 3mm fine on the other,  but locating a 3mm fine pitch tap and die is looking to be problematic.  Up till now I managed to find one source and on eBay UK.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 16, 2013, 05:53:37 PM
Not much done this past week as was busy with something else.  Just the same managed to do a simple item, namely the lever.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200109.JPG)

Made from a piece of 3mm stainless 316 flat bar that was available.  It is shown with the clevis heads installed with 2mm bolts and nuts.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200110.JPG)

At first I was thinking of not using bolts for this application, but clevis pins.  Looking at it, bolts look good also, so for the moment I am sticking with bolts.

Also this week I managed to get my hands on a sorry looking bit of bright mild steel (60mm x 60mm x 80mm) for 5 euros.  This should be the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200111.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 16, 2013, 07:10:20 PM
Good going on the lever Vince.  I was also thinking to use bolts for it.

Quote
Also this week I managed to get my hands on a sorry looking bit of bright mild steel (60mm x 60mm x 80mm) for 5 euros.  This should be the cylinder.
:whoohoo: - The flywheel's fun, but I can promise you the cylinder block is a lot more fun  :)    Do you have a tapping stand ? - that will save a lot of bother while tapping the holes in it  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on June 16, 2013, 09:44:16 PM
Haven't been on here much lately Vince but still catching up from time to time  - it's coming along really well. Lovely work on the eccentric and strap and that oiler's a true gem :ThumbsUp:

Good luck with that block of steel - there's definitely a cylinder hiding in there  ;)

Regards - Ramon

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 27, 2013, 05:44:59 PM
Thanks Arnold and Ramon for looking in.

I haven't stopped working on the engine.  It's just that progress has been reduced to a crawl.

I have started work on the cylinder.  I manually hacksawed off some of the excess length in the bar.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200112.JPG)

I also started reducing the sides to size.  Nearly finished two sides.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200113.JPG)

I was at first tempted of doing it in the lathe but then I went for the mill and a flycutter.  I wasn't getting any good cuts using the HSS tool in the flycutter so I decided to try some of the lathe tools with carbide inserts and finally settled on the one which gave the best cut.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on June 27, 2013, 06:25:56 PM
Looks like that BMS is getting its B back.  :ThumbsUp:
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 27, 2013, 07:01:32 PM
You're making the shiny bits appear again Vince  :ThumbsUp:

And with a better finish than I left on mine  :praise2:

I've also found HSS cutters wears out quickly when flycutting steel - the carbide works better for roughing things to size.  One thing I will try at a later stage is to finish with a very sharp HSS bit and a fine cut at slow speed and feed.  That's started to come together for me on the lathe to get good turning finishes.  Mind you, I'll make a power feed for the mill first; to get a nice finish cut on a bigger workpiece like this will take ages...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 27, 2013, 08:33:46 PM
Hi Vince and Arnold,

There are many schools of thought on how to get a good finish when machining steels. For my money the basic overriding principle is that the cutting edge needs to be wider than the rate of feed and within reason speed is the secondary consideration.

At one time I was given the job of making some shafts for Weirs reciprocating feed pumps. On the bigger pumps these are around 4ft long and say some 2" dia. If you faff about with low speed and feed one shaft could take all day for a finish cut. The shafts were machined between centres using a traveling steady. The technique used was to make a very wide cutting edge say 1/4" and set the tool to rub minus a bees wing then bring the feed up to what amounts to 8tpi or a little higher with a 0.002" cut and yes the tool bit was 3/8" square HSS. When it's done right the finish is excellent and it was this job more than any other in my life that convinced me that tool width must be greater than feed rate.

Thank you Mr Anderson  :NotWorthy:

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on June 28, 2013, 04:09:15 PM
Vince, I haven't tried flycutting steel yet but I saw bogs doing it once and he had a large radius on the tool, so I tried that on the aluminium and it seemed to work well. Will have to give it a go on steel, can imagine it won't like it on my mill as will take a lot more cutting force, Bogs' mill is a bit of a beast by comparison -
Nice start on the cyl.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 28, 2013, 09:18:02 PM
Hi Arnold, Bob and Nick.

I got my flycutter when I started out on this hobby and I remember trying it out on steel and was so unimpressed with it that I put it away and basically forgot about it until a couple of months ago when I was doing that aluminium subplate for the flywheel.  Having gained a little experience since I used it the first time, I changed the geometry of the cutter and it worked quite well on aluminium.  With this new found confidence, I tried it again on the cylinder and again got poor results.  That's when I thought of using carbide insert lathe tools in the flycutter and started getting better results. I still do not know how to properly use a flycutter on steel but am slowly learning by experimenting. 

And yes Nick,  my X3 is really taking a beating when the flycutter comes to the end of the material and it starts doing interrupted cuts.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 29, 2013, 03:16:36 AM
Hi Vince,

Flycutters are best if they are big headed  ;D

i.e. the less overhang the better so.............. the bigger the diameter of the cut the bigger the diameter of the cutter holder head.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 29, 2013, 04:42:22 AM
Vince

My first mill was an X1 and it just didn't want to deal with flycutters very well.  When I upgraded to an X2, I tried again and with a lot of experimentation and help from fellow members here, I finally got it right, at least on aluminum.  I used HSS tool bits, ground to a large radius and with a lot of relief angle on the cutting face and a very sharp polished edge.  The large radius did a lot to reduce the pounding of the interrupted cut.  My success did not last long.  Over time, the pounding began to increase and the surface finish got worse, even with careful regrinding of the cutter.  I kept trying to get it better until final the mill broke.  The gears cannot take it.  The standard X2 gears are plastic and the deteriorating cut was due to gear noise until the gears broke.  I replaced the gear drive with a belt drive system and the improvement was dramatic!   If the X3 has gear drive, be carefull. Don't break your mill!

A few guide lines that I follow.  Try to use the smallest cut diameter possible,  Just slightly wider than the workpiece if possible.  Carbide tools are not usually very sharp.  They depend on high speed and rigid setups for good performance.   The geometry of lathe tool bits is not ideal for anything but a lathe.  The angles are all wrong.  Bogs did a really good thread on grinding and shaping flycutters.  It is worth finding and studying.  It might save your mill.

Jerry

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on June 29, 2013, 06:34:47 AM
 :thinking: Would you not want the same angles on a flycutter bit as you use on a shaper?

Shapers use 14 to 20 degrees rake angle for steel and aluminum (zero rake for brass) and are kept nice and sharp  :).

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 29, 2013, 05:16:56 PM
This is what I learned from Bog's thread.  The orientation of the faces is confusing when compared with lathe tools so I colored them for clarity. The red face is about 30° for aluminum and less for steel, maybe 20°.  The green on the bottom is maybe 10° for clearance.  It can take quite deep cuts in aluminum, .015" or more but for steel, I keep it about .002".  Speed is slower than you think it should be.  Let the sound be a guide.  There should be almost no pounding.

If you have a lot to remove, I would start with an end mill and take only the final few thou with the flycutter.

Here is a JPG and a PDF


Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 30, 2013, 10:42:23 AM
Thanks all for the suggestions.  The thought of breaking my mill was enough to stop using the flycutter.  It is now relegated to flycutting soft metals only.  I was worried of breaking the metal gears between the gearbox and the spindle.  Instead I am now using a brand new 16 endmill with two carbide inserts which is giving decent cuts on the fourth face.

As an aside I started searching on the internet for a commercial toothed belt conversion (for the X3) for those two gears.  I would have sworn I saw one but can't find it anymore.  The one I found was for the X2.  Anybody know where I can find this kit?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 02, 2013, 06:06:57 PM
Finished off the front and rear sides on the lathe using the 4 jaw chuck.  Left it about 3mm long.  Marked the centre of the cylinder and using a dead centre held it in the chuck and the jaws slightly tightened.  At least I will be close when indicating the cylinder in the chuck.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200114.JPG)

I then proceeded to indicate the piece in the 4 jaw chuck.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200115.JPG)

Drilled the hole by step drilling and finished off with a 25mm blacksmith's drill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200116.JPG)

Next to bore it to 1.125".  I wonder what type of finish I will get?  I intend to use a carbide boring bar.  What's the best RPM for this size of hole?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 03, 2013, 02:09:42 PM
Hi Vince, still following you bud. You have a nice chuck of metal to whittle there my friend. Good luck bud hope it all goes smooth. As we would say " let to Swarf fly".

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 03, 2013, 07:32:41 PM
It's good to see you starting to poke holes in that block Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Unfortunately I can't help with the speed for the carbide, so hopefully someone else will help out.
Reminds me; I still need to hone/lap my cylinder block bore...

Kind regards, Arnold

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 04, 2013, 04:17:18 PM
Don enjoy your holiday in the old continent.

Arnold that's the first hole finished. Now to make it, as you said, look like cheddar cheese.

Finished the boring operation for the cylinder and left it 0.1mm oversize so that I can hone it later on.  Can't remember what RPM I used.  It was giving a decent finish so left it as it was.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200117.JPG)

I then proceeded to face off the extra length of the body.  This way I am sure that this face is perpendicular to the bore.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200118.JPG)

Now to make a lot of holes in it.  I was thinking of making the front cover first  to start distinguishing between the front and rear.

Bye the way, happy 4th of July to all in the States.  There was a article about the Liberty Bell in one of the local papers where a research is being made about one of the guys who remade the Pass and Stow bell. Somebody is researching if Pass was actually a Maltese migrant.  All very fascinating.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on July 04, 2013, 09:06:43 PM
Nice start on that block Vince. Let the cheese making begin :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 05, 2013, 06:26:47 PM
Don enjoy your holiday in the old continent.

Vince
Thanks Vince, we have arrived and enjoying ourselves. Keep the progress going bud your doing a great job.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 07, 2013, 10:47:38 AM
Thanks Bill and Don.

Well the plan to do the front cover first had to be put on hold as I realised that to make a nice fit of the front cover I had to first hone the cylinder bore down to size and I did not want to hone the bore before drilling the 20 port holes.  So I drilled the port holes.

Took out the angle block and set it to 15 deg. and put the lot in the milling vice.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200119.JPG)

First thing I did was to make a flat surface with a 2mm slot drill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200120.JPG)

First set of holes drilled with a 1.6mm drill.  Second hole from the left is where I broke the tip of the 1mm centre drill.  That will be OK as I still have to mill the pocket.  Some more photos of the finished port holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200121.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200122.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200123.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on July 07, 2013, 11:22:32 AM
That's a great start to the block Vince!...still following along!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 07, 2013, 02:50:55 PM
That's looking rather good Vince and I didn't realize you had ports on both sides. Looking at the cylinder from the back side you have hole on top and bottom. I guess I should of looked at the drawings.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on July 07, 2013, 04:15:07 PM
Very nice vince, I bet you are glad to have those done too!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on July 07, 2013, 04:58:35 PM
Good one Vince. That looks like one of those jobs that it is nice to see the back of  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 07, 2013, 06:25:08 PM
Thanks guys for looking in.

Jo, drilling the port holes went very smoothly.  I was fortunate to have a brand new 1.6mm drill so peck drilling done without a hitch.  What is really worrying me is that I need to do a lot of 2mm tapping in this cylinder and the smallest tapping I have ever done is 3mm.  Hopefully when I come to that stage I will find out that I was worrying for nothing.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 08, 2013, 05:33:27 PM
Today was spent bringing the cylinder bore to size mostly by honing.  I used the same setup I had used when I did the Kiwi cylinder liner as it gave a good finish.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200124.JPG)

I used kerosene as a lubricant injected at the top of the bore with a syringe. It gave an acceptable result.  I think when I used this method on cast iron liner it gave a better finish.  Still it was not that bad to the touch.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200125.JPG)

I then remembered that most probably I would be using the alternate piston with soft packing and all that crosshatching would not do with soft packing.  I need to polish it off.  And that's when I had this CRAAAZY idea.  Being a lazy person (you're not alone Arnold) I chucked up a piece of 28mm aluminium and put around it one layer of 400 grit sandpaper.  Inserted the cylinder by hand in this contraption and turned it first by hand and then under power.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200126.JPG)

Hopefully by now the reader would have picked himself up from the floor!!

I did this a couple of times until I removed the majority of the crosshatching and this is the final result.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200127.JPG)

There are still a couple of minor scratches visible.  I could have continued doing this but I had reached my target dimension and I did not want to tempt luck anymore.  As far as I can measure, it is still a straight bore.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200128.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 08, 2013, 07:46:28 PM
  :embarassed: - Oh dear... I hope I'm not setting a bad example by being lazy...  :lolb:

Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp: - the emery method might be problematic for IC and Stirling / hot air engines, but for steam cylinder bores, especially with "soft" rings it should be fine; they are a lot more forgiving, at least in my own limited experience.

Hmmm - I was thinking of getting a brake sleeve hone to finish of my engine's bore as well...  I guess I'll save some money and do a wooden lap with valve-grinding paste and a finish with fine emery now.

And you show a much better way of drilling the steam passages  :ThumbsUp: - mine was a bit fiddly.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 14, 2013, 10:14:33 AM
Thanks Arnold for the comments.

I have been working on the front cover and finally it is finished.  Used a 45mm round section BMS and machined it to a diameter of 42mm and then machined the boss that goes into the cylinder to a slip fit.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200129.JPG)

It was then parted off.  Changed my attention to the cylinder so that I can drill and tap 3mm the bolt holes for the front cover.  Decided to use the DRO bolt hole function.  Problem is that I never used it so it took some time to figure out how to use it.  Just to make sure I spotted the position of the holes with a marker just to make sure that they come out where I want them.  I then drilled and tapped each hole one after the other.  I hate tapping shallow blind holes.  I had an oops when using the first taper tap I stripped the thread but managed to save it with the second and final tap.  I also ground off the point of each tap to go a little deeper with each tap.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200130.JPG)

I then wedged the front cover boss into the cylinder by using a piece of paper between the boss and the cylinder bore to make sure it does not move.  Using the same bolt hole function I spotted the 8 holes on the front cover.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200131.JPG)

The 3mm holes in the front cover were then drilled and a trial fit was attempted.  Would you believe it, they actually fitted. WOW.
The hole where I had a problem with the first tap is a little skewed but still works.  That was a relief.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200132.JPG)

I then continued machining the front cover and left a 2mm boss on the outside.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200133.JPG)

And this is how it looks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200134.JPG)

I do not have the short 3mm bolts for the front cover yet.  I am assuming that the front cover needs a gasket. So I made a couple of gaskets from the thinnest gasket material I could find.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200135.JPG)

Not bad considering this was the first time that I have ever made gaskets.

Vince

p.s.  I used a diameter of 42mm for the front cover and a PCD of 35mm for the bolt hole pattern so that the head of the 3mm bolts would sit better.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 14, 2013, 04:07:00 PM
Looking good to me Vince. Keep it coming bud. Don't to just love the DRO hole function? It save a lot of setup time.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on July 14, 2013, 06:05:00 PM
Very nice Vince, another tedious task now complete without major mishap :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on July 14, 2013, 06:27:58 PM
Vince,
Did you do anything exciting in cutting those gaskets? If it were I, I would have used a sharpened tube to drill the holes and an Exacto #11 blade in a compass to cut the inner and outer.
Just curious if there is another way.
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on July 14, 2013, 06:37:03 PM
I normally use brown paper,for thin gaskets as supplied by Amazon as packing :naughty: best ironned flat before use. If you rough cut a piece of brown paper to size oil the surface you want the gasket for, stick the gasket on the oil. Now get a fine file out and gentally rub around the edge you will find that you get a perfect cut. Holes I normally just stick a watchmakers broach through twist the broach and it does the same trick as the file  ;).

Cutting with a scalpel has a habit of leaving a rough "fluffy" edge. If you use a tube cutter make sure you do it on the flat against a suitable surface that will let the cutting edge in.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on July 14, 2013, 06:41:45 PM
Looking good Vince....I do the sharpened tube through a piece of maple or nylon trick....

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 14, 2013, 07:27:32 PM
Thanks guys for  having a look.

Alan, I did the gaskets similar to how Jo described it.  I used the cover as the template.  Held a piece of gasket material over it.  Rubbed the  gasket with a fine file to cut the inner hole. Put the gasket in place and using a pointed round needle file (the one in the photo) made the first hole.  Bolted the gasket to hold it in place and did the other 7 holes with the same needle file.  I then rubbed the gasket with the same fine file to cut the outside diameter.

Hope it makes sense.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on July 15, 2013, 02:50:58 AM
Hi Vince,

You'll soon be down to the "Interesting" parts.

Nice Gaskets  :NotWorthy:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 15, 2013, 09:00:54 PM
 :facepalm2: I forgot to mention that it's not a good idea to start tapping with the first taper tap in the shallow holes; had the same problem.  Just for everyone's benefit - with metric taps in shallow holes like these, start with the middle tap and finish with the bottoming tap. 

 :ThumbsUp: Nice gaskets Vince - that'll be a first for me too once I get around to it.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 16, 2013, 12:48:10 AM
Quote
You'll soon be down to the "Interesting" parts.

Bob, I still have some way to go till I get to the fiddly parts.

Quote
it's not a good idea to start tapping with the first taper tap in the shallow holes

Thanks for the tip Arnold. Hopefully I remember it when I come to do the rear part of the cylinder.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 21, 2013, 10:59:22 AM
I haven't done anything on the engine for the last six days.  I guess it was a combination of several factors, namely,

Finally today I forced myself to do something useful.  Clamped the cylinder to the mill table.  For some reason I did not fancy using the vice. Used a new 5mm and 5.5mm drill and drilled and reamed 6mm the first valve hole.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200136.JPG)

I then drilled 1.6mm the bolt holes and tapped it with the first and second 2mm tap.  I made sure I did not bottom out and will continue tapping it with the last tap as soon as I finish them all.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200137.JPG)

Did the adjacent side similarly and then took it off the mill table and finished (very slowly) tapping the holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200138.JPG)

Touch wood, I haven't broken anything yet.  Now to do the other two valve holes.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on July 21, 2013, 11:26:32 AM
Vince

You are right to be scared of breaking a tap.  :o

I certainly would invest in, or make a much smaller tap wrench.
That beast will not give you much "feel" when things are about to go wrong.

Or better still rig something like this up, then no sideways forces will be applied to the tap.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/photo/tapping-stand-311.html

That photo was from a quick random google search, but you get the idea

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 21, 2013, 02:09:44 PM
Hi Vince, looks like you need to do as I am doing make some tools. As soon as I finish my pillar tool I will have my tapping stand. It would be a shame to do all those hole and then break a tap. I am still following your progress and she's shaping up nicely buddy.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 27, 2013, 09:57:47 PM
Thanks Phil and Don for your comments.

Yes Phil, that tap wrench looks too big for the job but it's unbelievable that I still get a feel of what the tap is doing.  Obviously I use the body of the wrench to turn the tap and not the levers.

Not much progress I'm afraid.  Still going through the 32 2mm tapped holes very slowly.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on July 28, 2013, 01:01:13 AM
Its still progress Vince, and has to be slow until you get all these teeny holes tapped. I'm still amazed by how much you HAVE gotten done!!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 02, 2013, 06:02:26 PM
Well, I'm pleased to report that all the thirty-two 2mm holes were successfully tapped without any breakages.  Yes, I took my sweet time to do them, but as we say at work, better safe than sorry.  As Arnold said, after a while, tapping 2mm does not seem so small.

More holes need to be drilled and tapped in the cylinder,  but I needed a break from tapping.  So I started work on milling the steam chest pockets (hopefully it is the correct terminology).  Marked it and then using the DRO roughed it out with a 6mm slot drill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200139.JPG)

I then used a 6mm endmill to finish it out to size.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200140.JPG)

I did the lower pocket first so that if there were any boo-boos they at least would be hidden.  Now to do the upper (inlet) pocket.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on August 02, 2013, 06:50:35 PM
Purty, Purty, Vince. Slow and steady as it goes is always a good thing, especially when dealing with such a large number of closely spaced holes. The mind begins to think that it shouldn't take too long and one begins to get hurried and BAD  :zap:  things happen. You did not allow yourself to succumb to this temptation and were successful in completing the task at hand without incident, well done.  :ThumbsUp:


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 02, 2013, 07:53:02 PM
Good going Vince; not a lot of holes left to tap on the cylinder block now, and those will nearly all be M3 for you, except if you want to make them smaller...

The steam chest pockets are not really critical, and they get hidden under the covers.

So, do you have an M1.4 / M1.6 tap yet  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on August 02, 2013, 08:06:49 PM
Vince, that is great work and just ignore Arnold. That was cruel bout the M1.4/M1.6 taps :LittleDevil:
Slow and steady, aint nutt'n too it. Just like a Texas two step. Two turns forward, one turn back.

Eric
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on August 03, 2013, 01:41:41 AM
Vince,

Fanbloodytastic  :praise2:

Best Regards
Bob

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 03, 2013, 03:42:26 AM
Vince Awesome buddy. She's looking good one step at a time.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 03, 2013, 05:01:10 PM
Thanks guys.  Glad to see you back Jim.

Today I did the other steam chest pocket and it came out even better than the other one.  Why is it that the second one always comes out better??

I then started looking at what to do next but it seems I need to buy some material for everything I decide on.  Why does this happen on a weekend when everybody is closed? :Mad:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 06, 2013, 05:15:51 PM
Well last Sunday I got lucky.  I found an off-cut from the eccentric which lended itself perfectly for the valve disk hub. So I started machining the hub.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200141.JPG)

I then flipped it over and faced off the back to size.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200142.JPG)

I then drilled and reamed a 5mm through hole.  I then drilled a 6.5mm hole and using a 7mm slot drill (I don't have small boring bars) I opened it up to the required depth.  And for the final diameter I stepped milled in 0.5mm increments the final 10 mm diameter.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200143.JPG)

I then lightly deburred the steps with a countersink tool.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200144.JPG)

Now to drill the four mounting holes.  I wish I had the Stevenson's collet block set which would have made it easy to hold the hub for drilling.  I tried this morning to order a set by giving them a forwarding UK address and then our local post office would bring it here.  But they only dispatch to the card holder's address.  Oh well, back to the drawing board. :noidea:

Then this afternoon, after the siesta, I had an idea.  I used the 4-jaw chuck clamped to the mill table.  It worked a treat and I drilled the four 3mm clearance holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200145.JPG)

I tried a 3mm bolt and it is a tight fit.  It is smaller than the 1/8" bolts called for on the plans.  I might re-chuck the hub and reduce the diameter of the hub just a little.  We will see.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200146.JPG)

Next to drill and tap the matching holes on the cylinder and do the spindle for the hub.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on August 06, 2013, 05:44:15 PM
Vince

That is a good looking hub. When you have the spindle and the wrist plate made, you might find it difficult to hold the spindle to tighten the nut that holds the wrist plate, particularly after you have the link rods installed.  Here is a suggestion.  Drill a small hole through one wall (top) of the hub, aligned with a through hole in the spindle.  You can then lock the spindle in position with a rod while you tighten the nut.  The hole also makes a nice oil hole for the spindle, that is why you don't drill the hole all the way through the hub.

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 06, 2013, 07:27:18 PM
Thanks Jerry for your suggestions.

The spindle has a square section exactly behind the thread which will fit into a square hole in the wrist plate, so I guess the spindle is locked into the wrist plate with this square section.

I also like the idea of a oil hole in the hub.  Maybe I will make another of my miniature oilers for it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 08, 2013, 04:17:23 PM
Good going Vince

Yes; the square section the shaft is to hold the wrist plate, but as Jerry suggested, a hole for a locking pin might be easier to make than the square hole in the wrist plate.  Choices, choices...  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 10, 2013, 07:45:30 PM
Thanks Arnold.  Now I get it. :facepalm:

What Jerry suggested was another way of attaching the spindle to the wrist plate and avoid doing the square hole.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2013, 12:07:28 PM
I have been working on the spindle and fitting it to the hub so that it turns smoothly without any slop.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200147.JPG)

I was going to mill the flats behind the 3mm thread but decided otherwise before taking out the dividing head.  I will mill the flats when I actually have the material for the wrist plate.  I desperatly need go shopping for more material for this engine but life has been getting in the way.

It's a public holiday today and knowing the locals there won't be much business activity on Friday.  So it is going to be a very long weekend.  Today I managed to find something else I can do.  I found a piece of 16mm square section brass which can be used for the valve covers.  The plans call for mild steel so I am not 100% certain if the brass will do.  At least it will keep me occupied.

Clamped it up in the 4 jaw chuck which in turn was clamped to the mill table.  Checked that it is straight

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200148.JPG)

and indicated it to the X and Y axis of the mill table.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200149.JPG)

I then drilled the four 2mm holes deep enough to hopefully get 4 covers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200150.JPG)

Using a 1mm slitting saw I cut the first cover.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200151.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200152.JPG)

This method might actually work.  Now to cut the other three.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ProdEng on August 15, 2013, 12:28:53 PM
Vince, I like the idea of using a slitting saw to separate the workpiece from the bar, a much more relaxed operation then parting it off on the lathe  :) The cut face usually cleans up after a quick rub on some abrasive.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 15, 2013, 12:32:25 PM
Vince I like the technique  :ThumbsUp: even if that looks like it is a long way out of the chuck.. Speaking of chucks: it appears from the photo that your four jaw is only sitting on the mill bed, it is not clear how you have secured it.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2013, 12:40:48 PM
Thanks Jan and Jo for the comments.

Yes Jan, a quick rub on some 220 grit paper quickly removes the marks.

I agree with you Jo, the overhang is too long but I did not want to cut a small piece to end up with another offcut (who's the skin flint now?).  The chuck is held with one of those milling table clamps.  It is hidden in the photos.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on August 15, 2013, 03:45:39 PM
Good job, Vince.  I wish I had the confidence to use a rotary table like that.  I am assuming that you did that to drill the bolt holes.  My results would not have been nearly as good.  I don't think you need to worry about the suitability of the brass for the job. It might even be better.

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2013, 04:58:36 PM
Thanks Jerry.  No I did not use the rotary table to drill the mounting holes in the hub.  The 4 jaw chuck was clamped to the mill table to hold the hub and used co-ordinate drilling.  Just calculated the distance between the holes.  I did not even use the DRO bolt hole function.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on August 16, 2013, 01:22:18 AM
Nice work Vince!

I have been quietly following along here and enjoying your build.

There are so many great projects running on MEM it is hard to follow them all and comment on the updates.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 16, 2013, 01:33:01 AM
Hi Vince, just catching up buddy. I also like your setup and making cylinder cover is made easy and you can chop as many as you like. Nice work buddy.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 16, 2013, 05:29:08 PM
Thanks Dave and Don for having a look.

Yes Don, I loved that method.  Drop the mill head 2.6mm and cut, and repeat as required.  If I was using steel I would have kept the material shorter.

Yesterday I managed to cut another 4 covers in about 15 minutes

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200153.JPG)

The bolts are a bit long, but that's what I have for now.  The covers will be eventually painted.

Today I made some gaskets for the covers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200154.JPG)

As you can see there is an extra cover and gasket.  An offering to the shop gnome.  Also today I managed to get hold of a piece of 3mm X 50mm flat bar stainless which I intend to use for the wrist plate.  I have been looking at the plans of the wrist plate and have been scratching my head at how to do it.  I think there could be a missing dimension but most probably I can work it out.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 16, 2013, 07:26:50 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp: You bet me to the valve covers!

Which dimension are you missing on the wrist plate ?

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on August 16, 2013, 10:50:30 PM
Looking good Vince, I've been very quiet lately, but still watching your progress.

--TIm
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on August 16, 2013, 11:13:51 PM
Nice 1 vince, that worked a treat, i used a slitting saw for something similar the other day (bearing cap after drilling) and was pleasantly surprised how easy itvwas and how good the finish was. Used a saw with much finer teeth this time compared to the first one which had relief on all the teeth and 'rang' a bit!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on August 16, 2013, 11:29:47 PM
Hi Vince,

That caps it off very nicely  :NotWorthy:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 17, 2013, 04:40:44 PM
Thanks guys.

Arnold and maybe Bob, I did some calculations today and was wondering if you can check if they are correct.  These regard the wrist plate (valve disk).  I need to know the distances between the threaded holes.  One of them is given on the plans as 0.692".  The other one I calculated as 1.188".

Also I need the total width and length of the plate.  I calculated the total width as 0.88" and the total length as 1.6255".

Am I correct?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on August 17, 2013, 11:38:24 PM
Thanks guys.

Arnold and maybe Bob, I did some calculations today and was wondering if you can check if they are correct.  These regard the wrist plate (valve disk).  I need to know the distances between the threaded holes.  One of them is given on the plans as 0.692".  The other one I calculated as 1.188".

Also I need the total width and length of the plate.  I calculated the total width as 0.88" and the total length as 1.6255".

Am I correct?

Vince

Hi Vince,

All measurements for the valve disk are based on the centre of the drive square so

The PCD of the 4 valve arm holes is 1.375"

Their position where the X axis crosses the PCD is 0.692" total centre to centre or 0.346" either side of the Y axis centreline.

The HtOA is 1.6255

The WOA is 0.879

The 1.188" is correct for their Y axis distance apart centre to centre.

Yep, you got it  :NotWorthy:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 18, 2013, 05:24:11 AM
Thanks Bob.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on August 18, 2013, 04:44:17 PM
I'm still lurking in the weeds Vince, keeping an eye on things as they unfold. Nice going on making the valve cover plates. One has to love multiples when they can be accomplished so easily.


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 18, 2013, 07:50:15 PM
Another nice bit of progress Vince. I am still following along as well and loving it!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 20, 2013, 07:47:58 PM
Thanks gents for the support.

Just a short update and also a chance to vent some steam. :hammerbash:

Have you ever looked at a drawing and said that it would be a walk in the park to machine it.  Well that's what I said before starting on the valve disk.  All I can say is that this part gave me some aggravation to make.  It's not finished yet and I have already broken three tools. :cussing:  That's a record for me.

A full update with all the fun when I manage to finish it.

Now I feel better. :rant:

Vince

p.s. Is the spell checker not working anymore?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 21, 2013, 12:11:09 PM
OK.  So I decided to do the valve disk.  It will be made from 3mm 304 stainless flat bar.  I did some calculations to extract some dimensions I required.  Bob kindly confirmed that my workings were correct and I did a sketch (understatement) with the dimensions I will be using.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200155.JPG)


Marked up all the holes and noticed that the 3mm hole was too close to the edge.  Took me about 15 minutes to realise that the datum (centre of square hole) is not in the centre of the part.  Started work and decided to do the four 2mm tapped holes first.  Started with a 1mm centre drill and it snapped off as soon as it touched the plate.  Decided to leave this hole for last and did the other two holes. On the fourth hole I broke the second 2mm tap.  I had a sudden urge to grab the plate and fling it far away.  Thankfully I did not do that but instead went home to cool off.  Next day I managed to remove the broken tap and finished it off with the third tap.

Back to the first hole.  Instead of using the drill to redo this hole I used a 1.5mm slot drill and then openned it up to 1.6mm.  I managed to tap it with just the two remaining taps.

The 3mm hole was drilled and reamed and next started work on the square hole.  Basically used Arnold's method and drilled the four corner holes.  I then noticed that I can add one more hole on each side (a total of six 1mm holes).  On the last hole I broke a drill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200156.JPG)

I pushed out the scrap material from the hole and this is how it looks after a light touch with a file.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200157.JPG)

Today I milled the edges of the plate.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200158.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200159.JPG)

And this is how it looks after today's session.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200160.JPG)

I still need to round off the corners but at least the worst is behind me.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 21, 2013, 12:23:32 PM
Hey Vince you want to try doing some of my Cotters (or maybe not...  ;) )

Every little bit of progress is worth having  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on August 21, 2013, 04:41:57 PM
304 stainless is a bear to machine. 303 is better. But it looks like you got there in the end; the part looks great!

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 21, 2013, 06:06:40 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

 :facepalm2: Sorry about the broken bits...  It happens.  At least your disk is to dimensions unlike mine which will have to be re-made  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 22, 2013, 12:46:45 AM
Good going Vince, I don't know about you but i am always breaking taps and drill bits.  :Mad: I guess i am just a little to careless. One thing for sure the manufacturers like us a lot. 

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 22, 2013, 05:42:31 PM
Thanks Jo, Simon, Arnold and Don for the comments.

Yesterday I made some buttons so that I can round off the corners and today I went to heat treat them but found one missing!!  After searching in vain for 15 minutes I made another one.

Rounded off the corners and then setup the dividing head so that I can cut the flat portion of the spindle.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200161.JPG)

I then had the job off fitting the valve spindle to the valve disk.  Took me nearly an hour playing around so that it was a nice fit.  With the spindle still in the chuck I put the hub on the the valve disk to see how they fit together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200162.JPG)

I left a little clearance between the valve disk and the hub on purpose so that they do not rub together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200163.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on August 22, 2013, 06:52:52 PM
Looking real good Vince, Terrific pictures and play-by-play descriptions, thanks.  :ThumbsUp:


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 22, 2013, 08:31:09 PM
Well Done Vince  :ThumbsUp: - that's the way it should look!

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on August 22, 2013, 09:29:05 PM
Nice going Vince.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 26, 2013, 10:38:43 AM
Well the valve disk is finished.  Glad that's behind me.

To cut the spindle from the parent material, I put it in the hub, packed it up with washers and bolted it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200164.JPG)

It was hacked sawed off and the hub with the spindle chucked up in the lathe.  Faced it off.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200165.JPG)

Left a little clearance so that the spindle can move slightly axially.  Also did the (Jo is going to love this) thingy for the top of the valve disk in bronze.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200166.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 26, 2013, 11:42:20 AM
That looks sweeeet Vince!!  Still watching and admiring!!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on August 26, 2013, 06:35:44 PM
nice work on the thingy, i've got one of those to make too!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 26, 2013, 07:02:07 PM
Thingy  :ShakeHead:

The rod is often known as a hook rod, and that would be the hook rod pin.. But our design is not hooky  :thinking:

Coles call theirs a "Knockoff cam wrist plate stud" and it has a pivioting "Knockoff Cam wrist plate"  :insane:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 31, 2013, 11:47:24 AM
Thanks guys for having a look.

Not much done this week.  Some more tapped holes (3mm) in the cylinder.  These are for the inlet and exhaust covers.  I adjusted the spacing between the holes and the front and rear faces of the cylinder so that 3mm bolts will sit better on the covers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200167.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200168.JPG)

Today I went shopping for some 6mm flat bar for the covers, but the smallest I could find was 10mm.  I guess lots of milling is envisaged for the near future.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on August 31, 2013, 01:36:20 PM
Vince, that cylinder looks great!

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 31, 2013, 02:26:36 PM
Looking good Vince, I see a lot more tapping has been done. Those taps are getting a work out, no breakage I hope.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 31, 2013, 04:53:14 PM
Still looking good from here Vince...hope you will find some time over the weekend to make even more progress.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 31, 2013, 05:15:35 PM
Thanks Tim, Don and Bill.

Tim the cylinder is starting to look like emmental cheese.  Still more holes to go in it.

Don, no more broken taps.  I suspect I broke that 2mm tap because I was working in 304 stainless.

Bill, just came back from a hacksawing session.  Both covers are roughly cut.  Now to start milling them to size. Tomorrow I have an all-nighter so I might do something in the morning but for the rest of the day I will be taking it easy.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 31, 2013, 05:48:25 PM
The cylinder block looks great Vince  :ThumbsUp:

From what I can see only eight holes left to drill & tap; you're nearly there.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 31, 2013, 09:59:47 PM
Actually Arnold I need 16 more tapped holes in the block.  Eight 2mm tapped holes for the two cylinder feet and another eight 3mm tapped holes for the cross head guide.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sshire on August 31, 2013, 11:19:14 PM
Vince
Don't know how I missed this build, but it is excellent. I went through all 25 pages last night and your craftsmanship is exquisite. I'm watching from now on as the MEM Corliss will be my project after the boiler is done. (I may sneak the Liney RV1 in there somewhere)
Love it.

Best
Stan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 01, 2013, 10:39:29 AM
Thanks Stan for the compliment.

Quote
your craftsmanship is exquisite

Gee I am really blushing now.

Seriously, all the credit should go to YOU guys who patiently show us your setups and describe how things are done.   :praise2: :praise2: I am just copying.

Regards

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 05, 2013, 11:01:05 AM
So, work started on the inlet and exhaust covers.

After a bit of hack sawing and milling, the covers were brought to size.  They are slightly wider (24.5mm) than the plans to accommodate the heads of 3mm bolts.  I left them also slightly longer so that after they are finished they would be filed (or milled) so that they will be flush with the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200169.JPG)

Next their thickness was milled down to 6.35mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200170.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200171.JPG)

Today the 3mm clearance holes, the central 6mm hole and the two 3mm tapped holes were done.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200172.JPG)

I did a quick check if all the holes line up with the cylinder.  Happy to say that they did.

Next to further reduce the thickness of the covers and create the round boss in the covers.  I think I will be using the rotary table for this.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on September 05, 2013, 11:29:43 AM
Thanks guys for having a look.

Not much done this week.  Some more tapped holes (3mm) in the cylinder.  These are for the inlet and exhaust covers.  I adjusted the spacing between the holes and the front and rear faces of the cylinder so that 3mm bolts will sit better on the covers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200167.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200168.JPG)

Today I went shopping for some 6mm flat bar for the covers, but the smallest I could find was 10mm.  I guess lots of milling is envisaged for the near future.

Vince


Nice Work!!!!!!   Getting a good finish, the proper corner breaks...ect....NOT easy to get it right!

Nice one Vince!

dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on September 05, 2013, 11:53:49 AM
Wot Dave said. That finish almost looks ground. Great job :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Whiskey
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: metalmad on September 05, 2013, 12:27:14 PM
Hi Vince
Another top build well under way I see  :praise2:
pete
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: swilliams on September 05, 2013, 01:03:25 PM
very nice work Vince

Steve
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on September 05, 2013, 05:34:45 PM
Vince,
Very nice work. Did you coordinate drill the cover holes or was there some other way that you spotted them?
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 05, 2013, 06:18:02 PM
Thanks guys for the comments.

Alan, yes I used coordinate drilling using the DRO.  Used the centre of the cover as the datum.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on September 05, 2013, 08:21:46 PM
Hi Vince, doing some fine work bud. Don't you just love those DRO's. Awesome man! I like......... :praise2:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 05, 2013, 08:57:22 PM
I have to agree with you Don.  Once you use a DRO you will never look back.  I had it for a year before installing it and then I kicked myself for not doing it earlier.  I used magnetic encoders instead of the usual glass scales which made the installation a breeze.  Quite happy with it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 08, 2013, 11:15:50 AM
Today I had some time to do some more work on the inlet and exhaust covers.  Decided to use the rotary table to create the boss on the covers.  I used the following home built accessory

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200173.JPG)

which was inserted in the center hole of the rotary table and bolted from the bottom of the RT.  It has a 6mm shank which is the same as the inlet and exhaust hole of the covers.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200174.JPG)

Centered the rotary table using the coaxial centering tool.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200175.JPG)

Used a piece of scrap aluminium flat bar at the bottom, then the cover and the rest some packing before bolting it tight to the table.  Here it is finished.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200176.JPG)

And after a little cleanup.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200177.JPG)

Maybe this evening I will do the other cover.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on September 08, 2013, 01:32:31 PM
Vince,

You've really got that covered  :NotWorthy:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on September 08, 2013, 02:44:28 PM
Vince I like that setup, I need to make one for my rotary table. I have some profiling to do on my drilling attachment feed lever. This may help in getting it done, thanks.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on September 08, 2013, 03:38:52 PM
Nicely done Vince, and the cover looks fantastic!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 08, 2013, 05:10:52 PM
Thanks Bob, Don and Bill.

Don, if I remember correctly, I made that tool from something like this:

http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info%5fBEA2S%2ehtml

I have two versions, one with a 6mm shank and the other one with a 10mm shank.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 13, 2013, 04:50:09 PM
Yesterday I had a little time to finish off the covers.  Basically I left them slightly long, so all I had to do was mark off the excess, mill it and draw file it so that I would be flush with the cylinder sides.  I also knocked up a couple of gaskets.  Getting proficient in making gaskets.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200178.JPG)

Next will be the feet.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on September 13, 2013, 04:59:49 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Are you going to make the feet in bolt-together pieces, or are you going to make them sort of like I did ? - it's near impossible to get the inner bolts mounted to the cylinder if you got the route I did...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 13, 2013, 05:04:44 PM
Arnold

I will try to make the feet in two pieces as you had suggested.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steam Haulage on September 18, 2013, 09:20:06 AM
I'm enjoying following this build; I am intending to build this engine and am trying to be careful in my preparation.
As a newbie I think I should offer something in return for all the information on this engine, especially the build descriptions.
There has been a some debate about making gaskets earlier, especially with regard to cutting out. I have a fair sized laser cutter,
20"x12" which is capable, after a bit of care and trial runs, of cutting to +- 0.05mm. I prepare the drawing in AutoCAD as I have it and it enables me to
make accurate, predictable adjustments to the drawing which drives the cutter.

I propose to carry out some 'experiments' on cutting gaskets for this engine. However I need people to tell me what gasket material and thickness it
is best to use so that I can obtain some to try.

(In the past I have used my father's method, not on models I might add, of placing the gasket material onto say a cylinder block and
tapping (!) around the edges with a ball pein hammer to cut to shape. It works well on BMC A and B series engines.)

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on September 18, 2013, 11:34:38 AM
Still watching Vince!   Keep at it!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jim Nic on September 18, 2013, 11:40:38 AM
Jerry I have some 0.25mm thick PTFE sheet which I bought after reading a recommendation from Bogstandard, in another place I think, about gasket materials. 
I have more than I need so if you want a sample to experiment with let me know and I can send you some.

Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steam Haulage on September 18, 2013, 01:39:41 PM
Hi Jim,
I'll be glad to try your PTFE sheet, the only plastic that lasers do not like is anything containing chlorine such as PVC, PVDC as it corrodes the mechanism at the high temperatures located around the laser.

I had thought to use the MEM Corliss cylinder drawing as a means of controlling the laser so I only need enough for that plus say 12mm all around to ensure that the sheet lays flat by weighting the edges.
The cylinder ends are 2.125" on the ends so a piece about 6" sq would probably be enough allowing for the hold down weights. If you PM me I will send you my address.

Best wishes

JerryNotts
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jim Nic on September 18, 2013, 02:14:57 PM
Sample in the post.  We look forward to the results.  :ThumbsUp: or  :ThumbsDown:

Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on September 18, 2013, 08:06:49 PM
Hi Jim,
I'll be glad to try your PTFE sheet, the only plastic that lasers do not like is anything containing chlorine such as PVC, PVDC as it corrodes the mechanism at the high temperatures located around the laser.
I'd be cautious about Teflon. While it doesn't contain chlorine, it does contain fluorine - a far more reactive gas with otherwise similar properties to chlorine.
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steam Haulage on September 18, 2013, 08:59:39 PM
Quite agree Alan.  :thinking:
Although some of the properties are somewhat different. When I worked with Dupont they tried to convert some of their chlorine chemistry to fluorine. Unfortunately for them some of the reactions are much more difficult to get started. I am looking at the chemistry of fluorine compounds in high temperature reactions as we speak.

JerryNotts
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on September 19, 2013, 03:25:23 AM
Most of my gaskets are made from plain brown envelopes so most of them are around 100gsm. Others I have used on models include 1/32" klingerite and neoprene sheet. Does that help with materials?

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steam Haulage on October 02, 2013, 01:03:56 PM
When the MEM Corliss first appeared in January this year Maryak (I think it was him, apologies if not) provided a list of parts. As I am working to get most of the materials and tools to make a start I took the liberty of converting his list to an Excel spreadsheet.  Copy attached. My intention is add more detail as I progress with my own build.

On the topic of laser cutting gaskets, I have not forgotten but have had to do a major move around of my workshop. Hopefully I'll get the examples done this coming weekend.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 05, 2013, 11:23:17 AM
It's been three weeks since my last post and progress has been, to say the least, SLOW.  Life has caught up with me big time.  I haven't abandoned the project.  It's just that time to play has become scarce.  I still force myself to do short sessions which I still find relaxing.

Started work on the two cylinder feet.  Used a 20 X 20mm bar, cut two pieces and trimmed the sides to length (2").

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200179.JPG)

A little chain drilling and sawing later I got these.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200180.JPG)

And after some milling.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200181.JPG)

Then trimmed the width of the feet from 20mm to 19.05mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200182.JPG)

And that's three weeks worth of progress!

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on October 05, 2013, 12:48:05 PM
Good going, Vince!

--TIm
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 05, 2013, 03:01:09 PM
No worries Vince, life catches up with all of us at times. You are still making progress and that's all that matters. Still looks great too!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 05, 2013, 03:17:10 PM
Yea! Vince we are still hear watching bud. Like Bill said, your making progress that's what counts. We are not trying to start a speed record.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on October 07, 2013, 04:34:15 PM
Any progress is good progress Vince  :ThumbsUp:

We all get caught up in "real life" every once in a while.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 15, 2013, 08:00:22 AM
Thanks guys for the encouragement.

Vince from Munich
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 20, 2013, 06:44:08 PM
Very little progress to report, but as they say, a little is better than nothing.

Basically I continued milling the feet.  I still need to reduce the height of the feet but I will know exactly by how much when I do the base of the feet.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200183.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200184.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: angeloscuro on October 28, 2013, 09:06:27 PM
Oh boy what level of work is that it is a spectacular thing is that I donot believe I can bring to this forum because apparently seen god mother, encouragement and congratulations friend grabbing a spectacular job these
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on October 29, 2013, 03:11:58 AM
Nice "foots", Vince. (Figured that since they are symmetric rather than left/right it needs a new word.)  :mischief:
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on November 24, 2013, 08:51:02 AM
Hello from Munich.

It has been more then a month since I last posted here.  The Corliss is at a standstill because the house is in turmoil.  We had planned to redo the bathroom but plans changed and instead we had to dig out the 32 year old drainage and rainwater pipes on the groundfloor.  In the process, the flooring and the kitchen was also removed and now the groundfloor looks like a battlefield (cats are loving it).  Good thing we rented a flat close by.

I have tried to do something on the Corliss but it was always a half-hearted attempt as my mind was always thinking at the mess we have back home.  Add to that, I had to go a couple of times abroad.

Finally, this week, the new floor tiles have arrived and hopefully work will continue next week.  We have also managed to order the new kitchen and wall tiles and also the new bathroom and it's tiles.  So hopefully next week with the new groundfloor tiles laid and everything that needed to be ordered done, I will be in a better frame of mind to do something in the workshop.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steam Haulage on November 24, 2013, 09:20:49 AM
I've been following along with great interest and sympathize with your drainage difficulties, I had a similar problem a few years back, trying to modernise a Victorian house and found cracked drains running under garden. This had been OK with elderly sisters living there but moving in with children soon showed up the leak.
I hope everything gets sorted.
JerryNotts
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on November 24, 2013, 02:51:47 PM
Vince,
I'll look forward to your return to this great build. Have fun in the meantime...

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on November 24, 2013, 03:28:47 PM
Hang in there Vince...we  be here waiting when things get back to normal.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on November 24, 2013, 03:57:10 PM
Hi Vince, just hang in there buddy and go luck with the home refurbishing. I have also been there and the mind was only on the home front. We'll be here when you finish.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on November 27, 2013, 05:27:03 PM
No worries Vince  :ThumbsUp: - things do tend to interfere with hobby progress all the time.

A trip to the Hofbräuhaus is sure to add some fun while you're in Munich :DrinkPint: .  I wonder if it still gets so packed that one have to walk across the tables to get to the restroom...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 05, 2013, 07:51:04 PM
Thanks gents for the kind thoughts.

Well we had new floor tiles fitted and I sort of made a temporary kitchen from parts of the old kitchen until the new kitchen arrives in March.  I did some plumbing changing the old metal pipes to plastic water pipes (Acorn) and I still need to reposition some electric wall outlets but the worst is now over and we have brought our home some semblance of normality.

After I return home (back in Munich) I have only one day at work then I am off until the beginning of January which means that I will have time for some more work on the Corliss.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 18, 2013, 10:51:07 AM
Yippee.  The cylinder feet are finally finished.

I am doing the odd job (repositioning the wall plugs in the kitchen) in the house in the mornings and in the evenings continuing on the Corliss.

Did not take many photos.  The following photo is showing both feet bolted to the mill table and the tops skimmed to the desired height.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS 0185.JPG)

And here they are finished.  As Arnold had suggested each foot is made from two parts to make bolting to the cylinder easier.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS 0186.JPG)

They were also given a primer coat.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS 0187.JPG)

And finally a family shot with the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS 0188.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 18, 2013, 12:01:08 PM
Vince, I was just thinking about this build yesterday but I knew you had other things on your plate at the moment...still its nice to see an update....nice work on the feet too.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on December 18, 2013, 12:46:40 PM
Looking great Vince!.....Nice set up on the mill....

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on December 22, 2013, 03:59:56 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

The feet will be much easier to use mount like that.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 22, 2013, 06:13:27 PM
Thanks Bill, Dave and Arnold for the comments.

During the past days started work on the rear cylinder cover.  I managed to get three offcuts of 60mm BMS for 13 Euro which should be enough for the rear cylinder cover and the crosshead guide.  Had to use the 4 jaw chuck as that is big enough to handle the material.

Machined one side.  The larger boss will fit in the crosshead guide.  It's not in the plans but as Arnold did it on his I guess it is a good idea.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200189.JPG)

I then drilled, reamed and tapped the boss 10 x 1 mm.  I used a 9mm slot drill so that I will get a relatively flat bottom.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200190.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200191.JPG)

I then fitted the parting tool and went as deep as I could (why is this operation so nerve wrecking??).  The rest was done with a hacksaw.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200192.JPG)

I am now getting that nagging feeling that I should have done the crosshead guide before the rear cylinder cover.  We'll see.  Also I have to see if I am able to bore the crosshead guide.  I suspect that my boring bars are too short.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 22, 2013, 07:39:05 PM
Hi Vince,
after seeing all your progress and beautiful parts for this engine, I am more and more getting a fan of it.
Perfect Job, I will follow.
Kind Regards Achim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: metalmad on December 22, 2013, 11:06:25 PM
Hi Vince
Looking great Buddy :praise2:
Pete
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 23, 2013, 10:45:44 AM
Hi Pete.  Hope it's not too hot down under.

Achim, thanks for the complement but your 16 valve engine will look better than mine.  Congrats.

A little early but just in case I forget.

Happy Xmas to all   :cheers:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 23, 2013, 11:49:23 AM
Hi Vince,

Just spent a very pleasant morning catching up on your build - this is really progressing well and looking very good. It's certainly going to look the business when you've finished:ThumbsUp:

There's only one problem - for me that is - quite understandably it's got the juices flowing  :D
Ah I must not get distracted he said ::) - To quote a certain Mr Tyson (woodwork teacher) on final report - 'Excellent work but easily distracted' Someone had me summed up at an early stage then ;) 'Yep'  - nothings changed much there.

I shall follow a bit more attentively this coming year - good luck with the rest of the build.

Seasons Greetings
Regards - Ramon

 
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on December 23, 2013, 05:33:57 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

I also had to make a new boring bar for this job - at least it's now in the tool pile for future jobs.

The boss on the cylinder cover has proved very helpful during assembly, and made it much easier to get things in line for the first run I showed  :ThumbsUp: .  When the engine's assembled, it's not really visible, so worth it IMHO.

Merry Christmas  :)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 24, 2013, 06:16:23 PM
Hi Ramon and Arnold.  Thanks for looking in.

Today continued work on the rear cylinder cover.  Replaced the 4 jaw chuck with the collet holder and finished off the other side of the cover.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200193.JPG)

And how it will look on the cylinder block.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200194.JPG)

I think I found a boring bar long enough for the crosshead, so I started roughing out the crosshead but had a doubt about the sequence of operations I need to take.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200195.JPG)

So I stopped and I will ask a question about this in another thread before I go further.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2909.msg50145.html#msg50145

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on December 24, 2013, 07:12:15 PM
Hi Vince glad to see you back at it again. Nice progress bud.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 26, 2013, 05:43:44 PM
Hi Don.  Hope you had a good Xmas day.

Just finished roughing out the bore and left it 1mm undersize.  Used a series of drills until 19mm and then bored to 21mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200196.JPG)

Now starting on roughing out the OD of the crosshead.  I have to go down from 60mm to 30mm (ouch) which will leave it 1mm oversize.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on December 31, 2013, 01:28:07 PM
that cylinder's certainly shaping up now Vince, good work  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 03, 2014, 09:52:13 AM
So, during the past few days I have been finishing off the material removal of the crosshead guide.

I used an insert tool to rough out the OD of the guide and left it 1mm oversize.  I then left it a couple of days to 'rest' and then I finished it off by first boring the ID.  As usual, chatter cropped its head out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200197.JPG)

I then proceeded to finish the OD with the same insert tool but decided to replace the well used tip with a brand new one.  As soon as it touched the metal the tip broke.  :cussing:

So I reversed the tip to use the other tip and it worked perfectly.  Sometimes I can't understand these things.  Next, the length of the guide was brought down to size.  At this point I noticed a discrepancy between Bob's imperial plans and Julius's metric plans.  The metric plans have the guide 7.5mm longer.  I went with the imperial plans.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200198.JPG)

Sorry, a bit out of focus.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on January 03, 2014, 01:50:05 PM
Looking good Vince.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 04, 2014, 12:09:00 PM
Thanks Tim and also Nick.

Some more work on the crosshead guide.  The flange was trimmed from both sides.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200199.JPG)

When I took it out of the chuck and held it in my hand, I had that sinking feeling that something is wrong.  I took it to my only milling vice and as I suspected it will not fit in the 3" vice.  :facepalm:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200200.JPG)

I need to hold it in the vice to be able to do the two 15mm slots in the guide.  I do not know how to solve this problem apart from buying a bigger vice.  Have to think about this.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on January 04, 2014, 05:13:36 PM
Can you hold it the other way round (maybe with some V-blocks), and turn the vise 90deg for milling)?

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 04, 2014, 05:19:53 PM
Vince it starting to shape up nicely buddy. I think I would mount the flange to an angle plate flange to it and use V blocks on the end to secure it to the milling table.

Just my 2 cents

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 04, 2014, 07:18:07 PM
Hi  Vince, what do you think about using  a rotary table on one side and a centering (tailstock) at  the other side ?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: rhankey on January 04, 2014, 07:41:59 PM
It looks like if you were to remove one or both removable jaws, your current vice might have enough capacity to hold the crosshead guide.

Robin
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on January 04, 2014, 07:52:54 PM
Just turn it 90° and grip on the barrel - I did mine that way.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 04, 2014, 08:44:52 PM
Gee guys, thanks for all the ideas.

Preferably, I would like to avoid gripping it in the vice by the barrel to avoid deforming the bore.  I will investigate the removal of the vice jaws or using the angle plate.  I will also check about using the dividing head and tailstock although I suspect that the milling collet holder will be too close to the chuck holding the crosshead guide in the dividing head.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 04, 2014, 08:52:56 PM
Hi Vince

This should not present too much of a problem. If you have an angle plate so much the better but if not a stout bit of plate held vertically in your vice will suffice - drill an 8mm hole in the plate if so.

Turn up a short spigot that will fit the flange end of your part and drill and tap say 8mm. Thread the spigot onto some 8mm studding .  and bolt the spigot to the plate. Mark a centre line across the flange and a corresponding line on the plate. Set the part over the spigot with a stout pre-turned washer and tighten up with the lines aligning. Mill out the first slot, rotate to align the second line and mill out the second.

I guess there are holes to go around the flange so it might be best to put these in first then use these to provide the 180 degree division - also that means your slots will be aligned with the holes ;) .

Hope that helps some

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tel on January 04, 2014, 09:04:06 PM
Gee guys, thanks for all the ideas.

Preferably, I would like to avoid gripping it in the vice by the barrel to avoid deforming the bore.  I will investigate the removal of the vice jaws or using the angle plate.  I will also check about using the dividing head and tailstock although I suspect that the milling collet holder will be too close to the chuck holding the crosshead guide in the dividing head.

Vince

From memory I turned up a sacrificial plug to avoid that, then, with the first slot done I flipped it over and located it by sitting the recent milled flat on the plug on a bit of trued up bar - easy peasy.

Done similar slots the same way on quite a few occasions - seems to work out OK'
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/laneranger/Steam%20launch%20engine/Cylinder2_zps9913fdb3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/laneranger/media/Steam%20launch%20engine/Cylinder2_zps9913fdb3.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 07, 2014, 12:30:57 PM
Again, thanks for all the ideas.  Still have not decided on the course of action yet.

In the meantime, I drilled and tapped the last eight holes in the cylinder block for the rear cylinder cover and drilled the clearance holes in the cover.  I did not take any photos as I used exactly the same procedure I had used for the front cylinder cover.  This is  how it looks with the cover bolted to the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200201.JPG)

Next done were the clearance holes for the crosshead guide.  Used a V block to hold the guide for drilling.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200202.JPG)

Initially, I was going to use the rear cylinder cover as a template for drilling, but then decided to use the DRO bolt hole function instead.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200203.JPG)

The cover bolted to the crosshead guide to check for alignment.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200204.JPG)

And finally, all the three pieces bolted together again to check for alignment.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200205.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on January 07, 2014, 03:36:53 PM
Looking good there Vince  :ThumbsUp:

I'd go with Tel's suggestion as well - turn up a close-fitting plug to fit the bore end furthest from the flange - it need only go in about 10mm .  No need for a plug at the flange end; the flange itself will provide more than enough strength to prevent squashing the bore, and just clamp it up in the vise with some cardboard sandwiched between it and the vise jaws to add some extra grip without having to use extreme force to clamp the vise.  The walls are plenty thick enough to stand that.
Just check that you've got the flange mounting holes rotated properly before you mill the slots  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: steamer on January 07, 2014, 06:11:33 PM
Sure is a bunch of tapped holes in that block hey Vince! :ThumbsUp:


Looking good....how did the alignment come out?

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 07, 2014, 08:40:24 PM
Thanks Arnold for the tip.

Dave, the alignment came out perfectly.  I used a 3mm drill for the holes knowing that if I had problems I would start opening up the holes in 0.1mm increments.  Luckily, I did not need to enlarge the holes.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on January 08, 2014, 01:33:44 AM
Beautiful work Vince!

I'm still quietly following along here, half way around the world.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 08, 2014, 02:12:27 AM
I am like it a lot Vince, some nice work going on here.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 08, 2014, 06:15:30 AM
Hi Vince, I am always watching. Great progress. My CAD has already a file called MEM Corliss. I will try to make  also my version of this engine.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 08, 2014, 05:19:24 PM
Thanks Dave, Don and Achim for having a look at my efforts.

Not much done today and tomorrow I start work again.  I bolted the crosshead guide and the rear cylinder cover together and held in the lathe with a live centre.  Skimmed the edges of the guide and cylinder cover to make sure they are both the same.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200206.JPG)

Next I played around with a new toy that I got myself.  An Italian (but made in China) 125mm milling vice.  Let us say it is my belated Xmas present.  I have been eyeing it for quite a while and now finally found the excuse to get it.  Cleaned it up a bit and removed the rotatable base and then indicated it on the X3 table in preparation for milling the slots in the crosshead guide.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200207.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 11, 2014, 05:45:53 PM
Finally, found some time to play a bit more with the crosshead guide and maybe finish it.

Marked the length of the slots and then clamped it in the vice.  To properly locate the slots with reference to the holes on the flange, two 3mm drills were used.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200208.JPG)

Two holes were stepped drilled to 15mm right through the guide.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200209.JPG)

The holes were then opened up with a 16mm endmill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200210.JPG)

First slot cut with the 16mm endmill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200211.JPG)

And the lower slot was cut the same way.  The finished crosshead guide just out of the vice.  Still needs deburring and cleanup.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200212.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on January 11, 2014, 06:48:19 PM
Nicely done!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 11, 2014, 08:29:26 PM
That turned out nice Vince....... :ThumbsUp:


Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 12, 2014, 12:18:37 AM
Nice Vince...did you breathe a sigh of relief after it was done...I sure would have :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 12, 2014, 09:32:18 AM
Thanks gents for the comments.

Well, I can say that the crosshead guide is now finished and now looking forward to do some other part for the Corliss.  I cleaned it up and also made a gasket for the rear cylinder cover.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200213.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on January 12, 2014, 02:21:39 PM


   Nice going Vince.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I haven't commented much on this but I have been following along.

   Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 18, 2014, 06:42:38 PM
Thanks Ron for having a look.

Next to be made, were the piston, connecting rod, crosshead and gland nut. I will be departing from my usual way of doing things.  I have a habit of starting a part and continue on the same part until it is finished.  For these four items I will not be doing this.  I have determined that I need to use the dividing head and a collet holder in the lathe a couple of times.  So to save some time with tool changes I will be working on most of the items at the same time.  Hope this works out. :hammerbash:

First off will be the gland nut.  The plans called for it to be made out of mild steel.  As the connecting rod will moving sideways in it I decided to make it out of bronze. A piece of bronze was clamped to the dividing head and a 16mm hex section was milled out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200214.JPG)

The material was next transferred to the lathe in the 3 jaw chuck and the rest of the machining done.  The thread was 10 X 1mm to match the thread in the rear cylinder cover.  It was parted off and then I needed to clean up the face of the nut.  The rear cylinder cover came in handy to hold it in the lathe for facing.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200215.JPG)

The next item to be done will be the crosshead.  The same piece of bronze was again chucked up in the lathe.  A tapping hole for a 4mm thread was drilled and this same hole used for the live centre. Started reducing the diameter to fit in the crosshead guide which I still haven't finished.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS%200216.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on January 18, 2014, 06:46:32 PM
Your hex appears to have 8 faces, Vince :D

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 18, 2014, 08:12:21 PM
Hi Vince I am always following.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 18, 2014, 10:01:09 PM
Thanks Simon and Achim for looking on.

Quote
Your hex appears to have 8 faces, Vince

OMG!!! :slap:  How did I make it octagonal??  I would have never noticed this boo-boo. Oh well, at least for now it is going to stay like that.  Should I remake it?  Is it that noticeable?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 18, 2014, 10:43:22 PM
Hey Vince,

Your hexagon +2 looks great and guess what quite a few originals were octagons :ThumbsUp:

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on January 19, 2014, 10:46:32 AM
How did I make it octagonal??  I would have never noticed this boo-boo. Oh well, at least for now it is going to stay like that.  Should I remake it?  Is it that noticeable?

My S&P, like the original, has Octagonal glands and I think it gives it character... just make sure the other  gland nuts are as well  ;)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on January 19, 2014, 12:28:38 PM
I think,it's great actually. A beautiful mistake is actually a design feature!

Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 19, 2014, 02:02:00 PM
Works for me Vince  ;D  Just leave it be and make the others to match!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on January 19, 2014, 04:20:00 PM
Good going Vince.

 :ThumbsUp: Leave it octagonal - it'll be easier to adjust as well!

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jack B on January 22, 2014, 02:40:07 AM
Hi Vince: I was so busy with my project that I didn't take some time to see what other people are making. I think you are doing a very nice job on your engine. When you hit a road block you always find a way to solve the problem.
The Corlis engines were built in Providence Rhode Island. Even though I live in Massachutts I am only about 10 or so miles from the Rhode Island Line. The place where they built the Corlis engines is about 20 minutes by car from where I live. I think the factory was demolished for urban renewal. I will folow the rest of your build Good Luck.                       Jack B.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 24, 2014, 08:16:12 PM
Thanks guys for the replies.

Phew, that was lucky.  I thought I was going to remake the gland nut.

Still working on the crosshead, piston and connecting rod.  Will post an update when they are finished.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 24, 2014, 08:56:16 PM
I'm a bit late Vince but that looks like a providential mistake. It looks good and as others have said it's true to some prototypes - stick with it  :ThumbsUp:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 26, 2014, 04:47:31 PM
Finally, the piston, connecting rod, gland nut, Teflon washer and crosshead are finished.

First to be done was the crosshead.  This was brought down to size until it was a snug fit in the crosshead guide.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS_0217.JPG)

Then off to the dividing head which was still indicated on the mill table.  Two sides were milled off to size.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS_0218.JPG)

I was intending to use the slitting saw to part off the guide from the parent material, but was feeling lazy, so I used a hacksaw and then milled off that side to size.  Obviously to do this I had to remove the dividing head (which was not required anymore) and installed the vice.  The crosshead was then patiently fitted in the guide until it would slide nicely in it.

Next the connecting rod was done on the lathe using a collet holder.  For the rod I used a piece of 6mm stainless steel.  After this was finished, a Teflon washer was turned in the collet holder.  This will be used in the cylinder head under the gland nut instead of packing.  I do not know if this will work out.

At this stage, I tried the crosshead with the connecting rod and the cylinder head to see if it still fitted nicely in the guide.  Well, it did not.  Must have some alignment problem, but I think with a little more fitting I can get it to slide again.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS_0219.JPG)

Work on the piston was then started and initially I was going to make it with mild steel but then I remembered that the cylinder was also mild steel.  Luckily I managed to find small cast iron left over from the Kiwi and I used that.  I roughed it out, cut the packing groove and also a parting groove and then brought the diameter to size until it just fit the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS_0220.JPG)

Parted it off and was lucky that I did not need any finishing on the parted face.  Some more fitting ensued using fine sandpaper until it would slip smoothly in the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS_0221.JPG)

Tried the lot with the cylinder and crosshead guide and definitely some more fitting has to be done, especially on the crosshead and crosshead guide.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 26, 2014, 06:06:47 PM
Glad to see your making some more progress Vince. She's shaping up nicely. Keep plugging at it buddy it will be finished before you know it.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 26, 2014, 06:24:33 PM
Still watching. Great progress. I can see the piston already sliding in the bore.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 27, 2014, 04:54:05 PM
Thanks Don and Achim for having a look.

I am trying to keep the momentum up in my free time as I anticipate that progress will come to a halt again as next month it is planned that the main bathroom will be taken out and a new one installed.

We will see how it pans out.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on January 28, 2014, 05:53:08 PM
Coming along nicely Vince  :ThumbsUp:
If you keep this up you'll be finished before I am!

The teflon ring should work quite well as packing.  Are you going to use teflon for the piston ring as well ?

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 28, 2014, 09:48:46 PM
I was thinking about using a teflon ring for the piston but I suspect it would not be easy to get it in the groove. I think graphite string packing would be better if I manage to find any.

What did you use Arnold on yours?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 29, 2014, 01:05:07 AM
Wow!!! That is looking good Vince. If you have some Teflon give it a try...it machines well and should open up easily enough to fit in the groove. Graphite would work too, but as you say, seems more difficult to find these days.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 02, 2014, 06:10:43 PM
Thanks Bill for the comments.

This weeks update.  Hardly anything.  Spent most of this week in a classroom doing refresher courses which I have to do annually and to top it up an exam at the end.  At my age, I hate exams.

Still I managed to find some time to go and buy a piece of 16mm square section 316 stainless (I would have preferred 303 but beggars are not choosers).  During the weekend I did not have work so I started work on the connecting rod.  Cut a piece of the 316 stainless and cleaned up the ends on the milling machine.  I made it 12.7mm longer than the plans but that will be removed at a later stage.

As I intend to work between centres, I centre drilled both ends.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200222.JPG)

I used the 4 jaw chuck to hold the material.  As can be seen the X3 table is getting a bit crowded.  I did some marking for the two holes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200223.JPG)

The holes were next drilled and reamed 6mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200224.JPG)

And that is all I managed to do.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 02, 2014, 08:23:36 PM
Progress is still progress Vince...some weeks are just like that :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 02, 2014, 09:07:16 PM
Vince like Bill said it's still progress. One perfect piece at a time buddy. Still looking good.......... :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 10, 2014, 04:59:32 PM
Thanks Bill and Don for the encouragement.  I needed it.  Sometimes I surprise myself how slow I am.  This week it will be a year since I started this project and the end is still not in sight.

I managed to do some more work on the connecting rod.

I first machined the flat ends on the connecting rod to size and then transferred the part to the lathe between centres.  It is a bit of an iffy arrangement but it has worked before for me.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200225.JPG)

I turned the middle part of the connecting rod to 9mm diameter.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200226.JPG)

Next was profiling the middle part.  I had already decided that a fishbelly profile was not for me (I hate fish and live on an island!!).  So the next best was a straight taper.  Went on the internet to find a right-angle calculator (hopeless at trigonometry) and  calculated that the angle should be around 2 degrees.  Set it up and made a dry run to see if it was correct and decided that a little more taper would look better so increased the angle to about 2.5 degrees.

Using a round profiling tool, the first middle of the taper was cut.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200227.JPG)

Flipped the part around and the other taper was machined.  And the two tapers finished after a little polishing.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200228.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200229.JPG)

I has dawned on me that I might be machining myself into a corner.  I still need to do the fork.  I will think about it when I get to that point.  As it is, this week I will be going to Munchen and major house renovations are planned for this month.

Thanks for watching.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 10, 2014, 05:31:33 PM
Nice work Vince - sometimes it doesn't matter how little you achieve just as long as its something - it's still a step forward.  :ThumbsUp:

Re holding your rod for milling the fork the following may be of help -

If you still have the topslide set over (or even if you haven't - it's just that if you have you get an exact match) pop a piece of rectangular or square section (preferably ali or brass but MS would do), about as long as one tapered end portion of your rod, in the four jaw and drill through at the same diameter of the smaller diameter of the rod section. Then bore it out at the taper. Remove and cut in two down the length on the centre line - a hacksaw is fine - and you have a two part collet that will hold your rod securely in the mill vise. It will grip even better with a piece of copy paper laid in between surfaces.

I use a similar method for turning ball ended con-rods on the lathe - it will certainly be just as effective on the mill

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 10, 2014, 07:54:50 PM
What a fine idea Ramon.

The topslide is still set, so that is not a problem.  The only problem I can envisage is that it will require a small and longish boring bar (the taper is about 50mm long).  Would a d-bit work instead of the boring bar?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on February 10, 2014, 08:17:30 PM
Vince,

The collet doesn't need to hold the full length of the taper but just a good piece of it near the end to be worked. Just let the other end dangle.

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on February 10, 2014, 08:42:57 PM
Hi Vince, step by step is always also progress. I know this very well from my own projects. I am always watching your progress.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 10, 2014, 09:24:13 PM
Hi Vince,

Yes a D bit made to the same taper would be fine and should do 45-50mm with ease if you take it steady but if you can I'd bore it.

As Alan says though you don't need to make it the exact same length as the rod taper - just sufficient to give enough holding power. Obviously the longer it is the better the grip - make it as long as you are able as you don't want it to move once milling starts however it's quite surprising just how much grip you get.

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on February 11, 2014, 01:21:18 AM
Hi Vince

I'm still following along and enjoying your work; remember its all about the journey not the destination. My projects are measured in years not months; I can't help it that is just the way it works.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on February 11, 2014, 06:20:50 PM
Nice going Vince - every bit helps  :ThumbsUp:

For now, I can't see too much trouble with the fork - unless I'm missing something  :headscratch:
The fork end is big enough to clamp up in the middle of the vise and mill most of the excess out, and then clamp at the end of the vise and use a slitting saw to square it out.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 11, 2014, 07:57:19 PM
Vince, that is no small bit of progress!!  What a nice looking con rod...the machining and the finish both. Maybe you can sneak in a family shot of all the components in their approximate locations before too long. All of these Corliss engines are inspirational for sure!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on February 12, 2014, 08:09:44 AM
Vince, I wouldn't worry about time at all, you're doing great! I've still got a list of stuff to finish from ten years ago, I admire your perseverance on this project.

Cheers, Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on February 12, 2014, 10:34:33 AM
Beautiful fish belly on the connecting rod. Nice!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 20, 2014, 08:39:50 PM
Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions.

Quote
The fork end is big enough to clamp up in the middle of the vise and mill most of the excess out, and then clamp at the end of the vise and use a slitting saw to square it out.

Arnold, I think I know what you mean after looking at how you did yours.

Well, after coming back from abroad, I haven't been to the garage as we did some more house renovations.  The kitchen wall tiles are now in place and also got all of downstairs repainted.  Some more minor details and we should be ready for the new kitchen units when they arrive.  Hopefully next week, work on ripping out the old bathroom and installing a new one, will start, and I expect this to take some time to finish.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 23, 2014, 04:27:07 PM
The plan for this weekend was to do some electric and plumbing works on the kitchen.  I did the wiring works yesterday and today I was going to do the plumbing but noticed that I had a missing elbow  :censored:.  Good thing I had not started cutting up the plastic pipe.  Well I could not do anything until tomorrow when the ironmonger will be open.

So instead I thought I would quietly slip to the garage and do some more work on the connecting rod.  I decided to finish off the crankpin side of the connecting rod.  It shouldn't take long.  Or so I thought.

So I marked the excess material I had.  Cut it off and milled it to clean it up.  I brought out the crank to see how it all fits together.
 :censored:  The crankpin won't go in the hole.  Today it's one of those days.  The crankpin is 6.5mm and the hole is 6mm.  Openned up the 6mm hole with a 6.5mm slot drill to give me a smooth finish.  Blast, it's still a tight fit.  How I wish I had used a 6.5mm twist drill instead.

A long time was used up to polish the hole and the crankpin until the pin fitted smoothly in the hole.  Then I noticed that the head of the crankpin was a little large.  It was 13mm diameter when I needed it to be 12.7mm.  Eventually this was brought down to size in the lathe.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200230.JPG)

Although not called for in the plans (or maybe I am missing it) I am thinking of drilling an oil hole in the connecting rod to keep the crankpin lubricated.  What do you think guys?  I might also make another miniature oiler for it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 23, 2014, 04:39:29 PM
Even though it took longer than expected Vince, it looks good and from what you say it fits like a glove now :)  Some lubrication wouldn't hurt and for such a nice engine I think an oiler would look best. Always nice to see your updates.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 23, 2014, 05:01:33 PM
Hi Vince glad to see you have made some progress. She's shaping up buddy even though you don't spend the time you would want on it. The end results will still be an eye catcher I am sure. As for the oiler, like Bill I say go for it every bit enhances the outcome. I like.......... :praise2:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 09, 2014, 11:15:16 AM
During the last two weeks I made a little more progress on the connecting rod.

The 0.25" excess material on the crosshead side was milled off.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200231.JPG)

Work on machining the fork was next.  Drilled and milled the excess material out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200232.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200233.JPG)

And then like Arnold did, used a slitting saw to remove the radius the endmill left on the inside of the fork.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200234.JPG)

A little filing ensued to get the crosshead to fit nicely in the fork.  Next operation was to round off the end of the fork on the rotary table.  Made a sacrificial aluminium bush to fit tightly in the fork,

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200235.JPG)

and the rounding off operation finished on the rotary table.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200236.JPG)

That's all for now.  Next, and final operation on the rod (when I find the time), is to give the sides of the fork the tapered shape.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 09, 2014, 12:46:23 PM
Looking good. Nice string of pictures to show how you went about it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on March 09, 2014, 01:27:57 PM
Hi Vince, looking good. I like your "TTE". (tape and ty-rap engineering).
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on March 09, 2014, 04:49:10 PM
Good going there Vince  :ThumbsUp:

That conrod will be a beauty once done!

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 09, 2014, 08:49:37 PM
Thanks gents for following along.

Achim, yes I love TTE. :ROFL:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on March 09, 2014, 08:51:20 PM
Nice update Vince. Coming along nicely. Its going to be a fine model !
Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jack B on March 14, 2014, 11:27:09 PM
I like the way you tied it up in the last picture. Good build.       Jack B
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 23, 2014, 09:00:50 PM
Thanks Jack and Bill for the support.

I am happy to say that finally the connecting rod is now finished.  Work on the bathroom is still ongoing but sometimes on Sundays I managed to find some time to continue work on the rod.

I calculated the angle of the slanting top and bottom of the fork and marked them.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200237.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200238.JPG)

Initially I had only marked one side but then I realised that it would be better to mark both sides.  Put it in the vice using a mark one eyeball method to line it up with the top of the jaws and proceeded to mill them off.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200239.JPG)

After some clean up this is how the fork end looks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200240.JPG)

Next, the crosshead pin.  For this I used a piece of 0.375" stainless which came from the Kiwi kit and I had not used.  I did the screw first (sorry but no photos) and then the other side.  Drilled a 3.3mm hole and counterbored it 4.5mm and then tapped 4mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200241.JPG)

Then the size of the shaft was reduced so that it will pass through the fork.  I used the fork as a gauge.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200242.JPG)

Flipped it around and faced it off and using a pointed tool I marked the center of the face.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200243.JPG)

I did this so that when I put it in the milling vice it would be easier to locate the center.  Used a 1mm end mill to cut the slot, but managed to break it. So instead I used a 1mm slitting saw to cut the slot.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200244.JPG)

And this is how it looks with the crosshead installed in the fork.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200245.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 23, 2014, 09:30:33 PM
Nice work.
Nice tip on the slotting too! I've always had trouble with that.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on March 23, 2014, 10:35:49 PM
Nice going Vince and glad to see more progress. Keep the photos coming buddy.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on March 23, 2014, 11:45:49 PM
Looks great Vince!  I'm with Zee on the slotting, I always seem to me off one way or the other and bit so thanks for the tip!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on March 24, 2014, 07:06:54 PM
Hi Vince, looks perfect. Always following.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 11, 2014, 10:17:35 AM
It's been a long time since I posted anything on this build for the simple fact that I haven't done anything.  The bathroom is finished and the kitchen is nearly finished.  A multitude of DIY jobs have also been finished.  The eldest daughter came to visit for the Easter holidays and then packed her off to Cape Town.  I also met one of the MEM members who was on the island. The wife (actually also me) decided that a little more house renovations should be done but we will do them slowly during the coming months.

So this weekend I found some time to quietly slip into the garage and do something on the Corliss (and as usual, flood the forum with my photos). Yesterday, I started work on the Guide and Crankshaft support.  It is going to be fabricated.  So yesterday was spent hacksawing two pieces from a 15mm thick mild steel flat bar.  Phew that was hard work.  At one time I was consdering making it from aluminium!

A family shot of all the rough pieces together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200246.JPG)

Today, I milled off all the rough (understatement) edges and squared the pieces up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200247.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200248.JPG)

I still have not decided how I am going to fix the pieces together.  I could just bolt them up or silver solder them but I have never silver soldered anything this big.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on May 11, 2014, 03:48:49 PM
Hi Vince - silver soldering shouldn't be a problem providing you have sufficient heat. That said I much prefer bolting and using JB Weld to create fillets/cast look where possible as there is not the distortion or clean up involved. Depends on whether you can machine the parts entirely first - if so I'd go for the JBW but if you need to machine after assembly then silver solder would probably be the better option depending on the machining stresses involved .

Glad you've managed to find some time to get back onto it  :ThumbsUp:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on May 11, 2014, 09:57:20 PM
Hi Vince,

Nice progress...............good to have you back on the important things.  ;D

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 12, 2014, 08:26:32 PM
Yes, Ramon and Bob, it's good to be back at it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 17, 2014, 07:46:29 PM
Good to see a bit of progress Vince  :ThumbsUp:

As you know, I silver soldered mine after machining, but that's 'cause I need the practice...  Bolting and JB Weld like Ramon suggested will be much easier. 
Or if you're making all the bits from normal steel, even soft-solder is an option. 

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 18, 2014, 05:08:20 AM
Thanks for the tip Arnold.  I did not know that mild steel could be soft soldered.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 18, 2014, 08:06:06 PM
It works very well Vince - I soft soldered the crosshead guide to it's mounting flange on my build (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1333.msg21770#msg21770).
As usual, the thing is to make sure the bits are clean with no rust or other contamination.  And just heat it gently; if it gets too hot, things won't work.  I used flux that's used by plumbers for copper pipe, and electronics solder.  And if you're using an open flame, never direct it straight at the solder or joints to be soldered - just heat the bits away from the solder/joint and let the heat conduct through to the joints.
It's low-strength, but if you make up the assembly from the bits you've shown, the fairly large surface areas should give more than adequate strength, especially if you "tin" up the surfaces before hand and then just sweat it together.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 18, 2014, 09:45:32 PM
Thanks Arnold for the explanation.

I was thinking about the hole to support the crosshead guide.  I was thinking of making it a loose fit to cater for the paint that has still to be applied to the crosshead guide.  What do you think?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on May 20, 2014, 06:14:29 PM
That should work Vince - do you know how thick the paint will be though?

Mine was made a close fit - and at some point I must have handled it with sweaty hands and it "rusted" into place while standing on the base...  A bit of force should take it apart, but seeing as it was already nicely in position, I left it together and painted the whole lot as one piece, so don't have to worry about paint chipping when assemling/disassembling. 

So, it might be a good idea to just make the hole a close fit, Loctite it in place and paint it up afterwards as well...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 20, 2014, 10:42:28 PM
Yes, that is another option.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 23, 2014, 05:16:18 PM
During this week I did some more work on the guide and bearing support.  Started with the guide support and brought it down to size and proper thickness.  Next was the bearing support which was also machined to size.  Following are some photos of work on the bearing support.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200249.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200250.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200251.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200252.JPG)

The bearing support still has to be reduced in thickness from 15mm to 12.7mm, which most probably will be the next operation.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on May 23, 2014, 09:52:33 PM
Hi Vince,

Still watching and still admiring your progress  :D

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on May 24, 2014, 01:17:31 AM
Vince that's so serious metal work buddy. Nice work and I like.................... :praise2:


 :popcornsmall:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 25, 2014, 05:22:46 PM
Thanks BoB and Don for having a look.  Yes, it is definetly good to be back on the project.

So, next thing I did was to reduce the thickness of the bearing support (side frame) from 15mm to 12.7mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200253.JPG)

This morning I started work on the front mounting plate.  Actually I had already done it earlier on but today I started making some holes in it.  The initial plan was to silver solder all parts together so I managed to find a piece of 2.8mm thick mild steel and made it from that.  Problem is it was a bit rusted but that's all I could find.

Well the plans have changed and it was decided to screw all the bits together instead of silver soldering.  So this morning when I was working on the rusty plate I was thinking of remaking it from 3mm 316 stainless plate.  The more I looked at it the more I hated it.  So half way through the session I started remaking the plate from stainless.  And below is today's progress.  The top one is the mild steel plate and the bottom one is the new stainless one.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200254.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on May 25, 2014, 05:53:23 PM
Still watching Vince. Good to see you back on it.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 31, 2014, 11:24:57 AM
Thanks Tim for  watching and also thanks for the rest of the MEM members and guests for having a look.

So last time I redid the front foot plate and have to say it looks much better than the rusty previous one.  This week I did some more work on the assembly, basically screwing it all together.

First job was to mill off about 3mm from the bottom of the front part of the side frame (this does not sound very good as a description) so that the side frame sits level on the foot plate.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200255.JPG)

Some countersunk holes later and both the front and the side frame are screwed to the foot plate.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200256.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200257.JPG)

To make the whole assembly more solid, it was decided to add another two screws from the side.  The whole assembly was locked in the vice and two 2.5mm holes were drilled.  When drilling the second hole, a 2.5mm drill was inserted in the first hole just to make sure that nothing moves.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200258.JPG)

Unfortunately, I could not go the full depth with the second hole due to the other drill sticking out of the first hole.  So, the side frame was unscrewed and was able to continue drill the second hole.  At the same setting it was tapped 3mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200259.JPG)

The X axis was moved to the first hole and was tapped also 3mm.  Good thing I remembered the location on the DRO of the first hole!

And here it is all solidly bolted up together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200260.JPG)

The side holes will eventually be covered up with JB Weld.  I hope it works.  Actually, I hope I can buy it locally as I have never used it.  Which reminds me.  I still need to buy a compressor to run this engine!!!.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 01, 2014, 09:36:14 AM
Good going there Vince.

A couple of holes, and it'll be done  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 01, 2014, 05:36:45 PM
Thanks Arnold.  Today I had to refer to your build.

Ever since I started working on this assembly, I have been anguishing at the prospect of making the 29mm hole for the crosshead guide.  I have been putting off the decision of which method to use and today was no exception.  I did the radius cut which is shown on the plans.  Actually the plans call for a 0.125" radius but I only have a 5mm radius cutter.  So I used that.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200261.JPG)

Having finished that, I tried to see if I could do something else instead of the hole but I could not put it off any longer.  It was either using the lathe with the 4 jaw chuck and a boring bar or using the mill and a boring head.  I was leaning on using the mill.  Anything to avoid using the 4 jaw chuck.  So I said, Arnold will decide for me.  I checked to see how Arnold did his.  On the lathe.

So I spent the rest of the morning struggling with the 4 jaw chuck to get the hole centred.  This evening, I stepped drilled the hole to 25mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200262.JPG)

And then using a 12mm boring bar I openned the hole up to 29mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200263.JPG)

I made the hole a loose fit as I was worried that it might not line up properly with the crosshead guide.

Now for the moment of truth.  Assembled everything and wonder of wonders the crosshead guide slipped nicely into the hole.  Phew.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200264.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200265.JPG)

Still a lot of work remaining on this assembly, but I feel that the worst part is over.

Bye the way, Bob, if you are reading this, I need some help on a dimension that I cannot figure out.  The valve lever will eventually be fixed to this assembly.  I cannot find how high from the bottom the tapped hole for this lever is.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 01, 2014, 05:43:51 PM
Good going Vince that's looking real good, are we on the home stretch now? You do some vice nice work when you put your mind to it buddy.


 :popcorn:
Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on June 01, 2014, 06:33:07 PM
Major step forward  :ThumbsUp:

So why are you having problems with setting up a Four jaw chuck? What are you doing? It should be easy:

Centre punch the centre of the hole, put a male centre in the tailstock and mount the work in the four jaw roughly centring on the centre punch. Now you need a pointer that has some play: I use the sprung loaded plunger I use for tapping  ;)  Mount in the tailstock and poke the point in the centre punch mark.

Mount a dial gauge and have it measuring the run out on the pointer. Pull the plunger of the dial gauge up and see which direction of dial movement is which, this gives you a clue as to which keys you will need to loosen and then tighten the other one. I have the screws numbered in red on my four jaw, it important you only fiddle with one pair (plane) at a time, so either do the odd ones or the even ones, don't do both at the same time  :hellno:

With the screw that needs to be loosened in line with the dial gauge take note of the dial's reading , loosen the screw a fraction, the dial should hardly move. Turn the chuck 180 degrees, you now need to wind the screw in until you half the difference between what it measures at the moment and what the other side measured. Turn the chuck 180 degrees and tighten the other screw. Now see if you have the same measurement on the dial when both screws are in line with the dial gauge. If its still really bad you might want to do that pair again. But you may wish first to try centring using the other pair of screws as sometimes they can throw the centre line off ;).

Then it is just a case of going between the two pairs until you achieve the tolerance you are happy with. Then remove the dial and pointer and off you go  :DrinkPint:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on June 01, 2014, 06:43:06 PM
Hi Vince,
I've been following along with your Corliss  build and it's looking great.
Isn't that a wonderful feeling, to have one of those big steps successfully behind you, that you've been dreading?
Great work!
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 01, 2014, 07:45:24 PM
Thanks Don, Jo and Kim for the words of encouragement.  Really appreciate it.

Jo, I know the theory, I've seen many videos and I have done it every time I used the 4 jaw chuck but I waste so much time in setting it up that if I can avoid it I will.  It's my pet hate in this hobby.  I guess other people have got pet hates and this is mine.

To compound it, my cousin who has an engineering shop for a living, always has 4 jaw chucks installed and uses them also for round stock.  When I see him setting it up in less than a minute it makes matters worse. 

At the end of the day, practice makes perfect and it's a hurdle I need to overcome one day.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Stuart on June 01, 2014, 08:33:03 PM
Or try this way with your four jaw done in a couple of revs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSjQfnXuhEE
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 01, 2014, 08:53:28 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

If the dimension you're looking for is the pivot mounting for the valve hinge lever, that's about 1/8" (3.2mm) above the mounting plate.  The height is not super-critical though.

 :LittleDevil: - if you work by my methods, you're very likely to have to use the old 4-jaw a lot.  If I can possibly do a job on the lathe rather than the mill, I usually do, as I prefer to work on the lathe.  When I started off, I also found the job of setting up jobs in the 4-jaw a bit time-consuming, but now it rarely takes me more than a minute to get good accuracy, and maybe two to three minutes to get very good accuracy in centering jobs on it.  As much as I love my collet chucks, whenever a job demanding super accuracy comes up, I switch to the 4-jaw and clock up the work with a DTI - for 10 minute's work, less than 0.002mm (one tenth of a thou) is quite reasonable to get.  The more you use it, the better "feel" you'll get for it, and IMHO an independent 4-jaw chuck is absolutely a necessity on the lathe...  So much so, that this arrived here earlier this week to be fitted to my small lathe - in all it's "glory" still covered with dragon grease/oil:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10004/thumb_IMG_6024.JPG)

Jo's description is pretty much how I center work in the 4-jaw as well.  A pump/spring-loaded center will definitely make life a lot easier (I still use a dead center), and Marv's suggestion for an additional opposed adjustment nut as well.

Kind regards, Arnold

Bah - I got side-tracked while typing this up, and some more responses were added - Vince (and anybody else struggling with this), don't see it as a hurdle, but rather as a very useful method of work setup.  I still need to figure out the exact ratios, but IMHO at least 30% of successful machining comes from a positive attitude and desire to do a good job alone...
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on June 01, 2014, 09:17:06 PM
Yes Vince, good going. Still working on the garden and other  to do lists.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on June 02, 2014, 09:10:23 AM
Hi Vince,

0.25" up from the bottom of the base.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 02, 2014, 12:02:43 PM
Thanks Bob.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on June 02, 2014, 06:19:33 PM
Hi Vince, I think every project has one or two things most of us dread doing for one reason or another. Usually I find after doing it, it wasn't a big a hurdle as I had imagined, but in any case I am glad you got over yours and did so with great results from looking at the pictures. This is still a very handsome engine and I always enjoy seeing your updates on it. Its on my list and getting higher these days :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 02, 2014, 07:49:15 PM
Thanks Bill.  I think your half scale radial could get on my empty list.  It's so cute.  But before that there might be a piece of tooling.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 03, 2014, 11:09:21 PM
but I feel that the worst part is over.

Possibly. Have you considered your 'happy dance'?  ;D

Sure is looking good.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 04, 2014, 07:40:35 PM
Happy dance.

Every time I read that I always remember crankshafter doing his when he finished his Hoglet.  Are there any more examples of the happy dance floating around?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 05, 2014, 05:34:45 PM
Today I started off by doing something I should have done last year.

When I bought the 5" milling vice, it was obvious that the top surface of the jaws were not parallel to the mill table.  I never bothered to do anything about this because up till now I never needed it.  So today I removed the jaws and gave them a good clean and removed some burrs with a little draw filing. Fitted them back indicating them to be parallel to the table.

I then milled off some excess material from the front frame.  I also roughed out the top radius (that's why I did the adjustment on the vice).

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200266.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200267.JPG)

The plan is to later finish off the radius on the rotary table.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 05, 2014, 07:29:30 PM
Nicely executed Vince, I like that................ :praise2:

 :popcorn:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on June 05, 2014, 08:01:15 PM
That's looking good Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on June 06, 2014, 09:28:06 PM
I agree !  It is looking very nice.

Arnold,  apologies I've just noticed your sig...
I agree. :-)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 07, 2014, 05:33:12 PM
Thanks Don, Arnold and Baron.

I usually request that on Saturdays I am off from work because I have a date in the evening.  Me and my wife go out to a posh place and have something to eat.  Yesterday, a colleague asked me if I could do him a favour and do his morning duty.  As it was a short duty I accepted to do it.  Infact by 2pm I was already at home.

After a little rest, I went to the garage and did something on the Corliss.  I am trying to finish all the operations using the mill vice before removing it to fit the rotary table.  All that remained were two 3mm mounting holes on the back leg (even though the plans show one mounting hole) and two 3mm tapped holes to fit the bronze bearing.  I could not resist, and mounted the bearing to see how it looks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200268.JPG)

That did not take too long to do and I was back home in time for my date.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 09, 2014, 05:44:34 PM
Today, after work, I took off the milling vice and put on the rotary table.  Indicated it with a coaxial indicator (hope it's the correct terminology).  I then put the part on a sacrificial piece of aluminium and indicated it also using the same indicator.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200269.JPG)

Then proceeded to clean up the radius which did not take long.  It took longer to set it up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200270.JPG)

Next operation will be to bolt up the assembly and take some skimming cuts to the top surface where the bearing sits.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 12, 2014, 05:19:58 PM
A little more work done on the guide and bearing support.  It's starting to get hot here and I start to get lazy :Lol:.

The assembly was bolted up for hopefully the last time and clamped and indicated on the mill table.  Some skimming cuts were done on the surface where the bearing will be located until it was the same height as the other bearing pillar.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200271.JPG)

For the final cut, the other bearing pillar was also clamped to the assembly, and both surfaces were skimmed together thus making sure they are at the same height.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200272.JPG)

A family shot of both bearings fitted and the crankshaft installed.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200273.JPG)

Next, I need to clean up the assembly with surgical spirit and apply some JB weld which believe or not I found at my local ironmonger.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on June 12, 2014, 06:34:30 PM
Oh yea, you do some nice work Vince. She's starting to look the part bud and I like............... :praise2:


 :popcorn:
Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 13, 2014, 08:07:20 PM
Thanks Don.  I am just trying to emulate you guys.

So today I gave the assembly a real good clean with surgical spirit. I mixed some JB weld and applied it.  I mostly wanted to cover the two counterbored holes but then decided to do some fillets at the base.  I will leave it for 24 hours and then will smooth it with sand paper.

That's when it hit me.  Can it be sanded down?  Too late now.  I guess I will find out tomorrow.  I should have asked this question before.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on June 13, 2014, 08:37:37 PM

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200273.JPG)

Next, I need to clean up the assembly with surgical spirit and apply some JB weld which believe or not I found at my local ironmonger.

Vince

Hi Vince,
Please excuse the criticism !  I would have liked to see that out side support post have the same lovely curves as the inside one !

Otherwise its looking good !



Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 14, 2014, 04:20:25 PM
I am happy to report that my first outing with JB weld was a success.  The two counterbored holes will be invisible when painted over and also the fillets worked nicely.  I did the fillets with a radius of 1.5mm using the shank of a 3mm drill to wipe off the excess and make it smooth.  To remove the excess adhesive after it had cured, I used a sharp Stanley knife to shave off the extra material.  Then filed and finally sanded it down with a 220 grit sand paper.

And yes Baron you are absolutely correct.  I had been looking at it and after your comment it gave me the push that I needed to start work on another bearing pillar.  Version two will have the same curves to match and also I will make the top part a little thicker so that I can use studs.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on June 15, 2014, 06:55:07 AM
Hi Vince, it is comming together step by step and looking nice. To change the design of the single bearing pillar might be a good idea. Waiting for the next pictures.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on June 15, 2014, 10:39:07 AM

And yes Baron you are absolutely correct.  I had been looking at it and after your comment it gave me the push that I needed to start work on another bearing pillar.  Version two will have the same curves to match and also I will make the top part a little thicker so that I can use studs.

Vince

Yes It would be a shame to detract from the overall appearance by leaving that pillar as it is !

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 22, 2014, 04:30:31 PM
During this past week I was slowly redoing the outer bearing pillar and today I finally finished it

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200274.JPG)

The one on the right is version two.  It has the same curves as the other leg and the top is thicker so that I can use studs to hold the bearing.  It looks a bit top-heavy, but I am hoping that with the bearing on it and sitting close to the large flywheel it will not look that bad.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200275.JPG)

I would not like to make version 3.

Whilst I was sitting there, giving myself a pat on the back, I had one of those OMG moments.

 :censored:  :cussing:

I just realised  that the crosshead guide and bearing support assembly still has something missing.  It's missing the valve lever pivot.  It was supposed to be silver soldered but I totally forgot it. :Mad:  I would not like to disassemble the whole lot and remove the JB weld.

I think I have hatched a plan of action to remedy this situation but it will be some time before I can try it as next week I will be in Munich and Amsterdam.  It will give me some more time to think about it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on June 23, 2014, 05:25:06 PM
Hi Vince,

Yes that pillar looks a lot better.  I think that the top heavy look is only because it is next to the square one.  But if you do feel that its not quite right there looks to be enough meat there to be able to reduce it a little.

Next time I get down to Markham I'll have to remember to photograph that pillar.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 05, 2014, 04:25:45 PM
I am back again and during my stay abroad I really enjoyed the temperate temperatures of central Europe.  Here it is 30 deg and getting hotter by the day.  As the saying goes "the grass is always greener on the other side".

During the last couple of days I managed to fit the valve lever pivot which I had totally forgotten.  I drilled a 5.5mm hole in the assembly and then opened it up to 6mm with a slot drill to give me a flat bottomed hole.  I then chose a piece of 6mm mild steel which would be a press fit in the hole.  Faced it to length and then drilled and tapped 2mm.

I used Bill's method to tap the 2mm hole.  I fixed the tap in the tailstock chuck but left the taper loose in the tailstock and turned the chuck by hand.  Worked a charm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200276.JPG)

Both parts before being pressed together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200277.JPG)

And using the big mill vice to press them together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200278.JPG)

And the whole assembly finally complete with the valve lever fitted to the pivot.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200279.JPG)

I have given the assembly two coats of primer/filler to protect from rust and also to hide all the machining marks.  This spray is really good.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 05, 2014, 06:40:08 PM
Nice to see an update Vince, and good going on sorting out the pivot  :ThumbsUp:

LOL - you're starting to get hot, and over here, there's the exact opposite...

Kind regard, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 05, 2014, 09:37:52 PM
That's what my eldest daughter tells me Arnold.  She is at the moment in Cape Town.

I just checked the weather at Windhoek airport and I never knew that Windhoek is at 5000ft elevation and has such a long runway to compensate for the high elevation and high temperatures in summer.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 05, 2014, 10:05:13 PM
Hi Vince, looks like she,s still coming together slowly buddy but she's is coming together. Nice work on the remake of the bearing pillar and I have to say it does improve the look. I like............. :praise2:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on July 06, 2014, 02:45:24 AM
Looking good Vince,

Nice job on the pivot and also nice to see an update on the Corliss project.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 06, 2014, 10:22:41 AM
Thanks Dave, Don and Arnold for having a look.

This morning I did not do much as I am working early afternoon.  I just drilled and tapped both bearings to take the micro oilers I made many moons ago.  Then I temporarily fitted the bearings and I found myself in a dilemma.

Which washers shall I use?

The one on the left is a plain 3mm washer and the one on the right is a 3mm spring washer.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200280.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200281.JPG)

I am favouring the spring washer as it is smaller but not sure.  What do you think guys??

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on July 06, 2014, 06:14:59 PM
Hi Vince,


Looking good.  I like that linkage, it looks to "belong" there.  As far as the washer goes, I doubt that a spring washer would ever have been used on the original.  I would make my own !  That way you will get exactly the appearance that you want.  Drill and part off from a piece of rod to suit.



Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 14, 2014, 05:30:03 PM
Thanks Baron for having a look.

I decided to give the bearing supports a splash of colour.  Some time ago I had put my eye on a particular colour for this model.  A dark red.  Unfortunately, when I went to get a couple of cans of this colour, they were sold out.  I tried several other shops but it seems that the whole of the island wanted to use it. :facepalm:

Things here, once out of stock, will take ages to get restocked.  So I had to change colour, and this is what I will be using as a final colour.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200282.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200283.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200284.JPG)

The colour is a little darker than the photos.  For a first timer in painting anything with a spray can, it came out OK, sort of.

I also started work on the valves.  I have already turned out four blanks to the appropriate length.  I am going to use a one piece construction like Arnold's.

Clamped a piece of scrap aluminium flat bar to the mill table, and with a 6mm ball-nose end mill I cut a groove 2.8mm deep.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200285.JPG)

This will help in holding the valve blank in place whilst milling it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200286.JPG)

First one done, three to go.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200287.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 14, 2014, 05:43:24 PM
Looks good Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Are you going to add slots to the back of the valves as well ? - I found that extremely useful for setting the timing.

As to your washer predicament...  You could also turn down some normal M3 washers like I did - that's pretty quick to do:
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10004/thumb_IMG_5975.JPG)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10004/thumb_IMG_5976.JPG)(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10004/thumb_IMG_5977.JPG)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 14, 2014, 07:50:51 PM
Hi Arnold.

I will be following in your footsteps and making the slots.  I will also mark on which side of the slot is the milled portion of the valve.  I think you mentioned it also.

Regarding the washers, I will be changing to plain washers as the spring washers look too thick.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on July 14, 2014, 08:50:10 PM
Hi Vince,

I like the colour !  Green !  Things look good in green and that is looking very good.  I think you have done the right thing with the thin flat washers.  It's more in keeping with the scale and realism.

I'm watching with great interest...

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 14, 2014, 10:01:18 PM
Oh yea! That sure is pretty Vince. I be liking it already buddy. Keep that beautiful footage coming.

 :popcorn:
Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 19, 2014, 05:35:38 PM
Thanks guys for your input.

Still working on the valves and tomorrow I will have them finished.

Help please. :headscratch:

Started thinking about the base.  Had a look at the dimensions given on the plans and I immediately hit a snag.  If I am reading them correctly, the small pillar bearing post will actually overlap into the flywheel cutout.  Can't understand it.  I will be happy if someone tells me where I am going wrong.

In the meantime, I think, my plan of action will be to do the flywheel cutout and use that as a reference.  Should the small bearing pillar be flush with the cutout?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on July 20, 2014, 01:33:46 AM
Hi Vince,

The outrigger pedestal is 1/2" wide, the distance from the side of the flywheel cut out to the pedestal centreline is 9/32" giving a clearance of 1/32"

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 20, 2014, 08:26:41 AM
Roger that Bob.

Distance from cutout to side of outrigger pedestal is 1/32".

So am I misreading the plan on the base?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 20, 2014, 10:45:55 AM
So the four valves have been finished.

I milled the slot in all of them and then cut a 1mm slot on the backside.  This should help in adjusting them with a screwdriver.  I also made a light center punch mark to show me on which side is the milled slot.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200288.JPG)

As these valves are a one part construction as opposed to a two part construction as shown on the plans, I turned down the front part of the valves to 3mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200289.JPG)

And here are all four valves complete.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200290.JPG)

As you might have imagined, I am next going to turn my attention to the base.  This I suspect is going to be fun as I have changed the position of some of the mounting holes.  I wonder how many times I am going to redo it as it is going to be all trial and error.

Just to give me an idea of the size of this model, I assembled all the finished parts together and put them on an A4 sized paper.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200291.JPG)

It also showed up the parts that still need a bit of fitting to get them to move smoothly, namely the piston, piston rod and crosshead.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on July 20, 2014, 08:02:34 PM
Looks nice together Vince  :ThumbsUp:   

You can always use the A4 paper as a template for marking the base locating holes  ;)

I hope you don't mind if I steal adopt your punch-mark idea for the valves.  For the couple of times I had them installed, I kept on forgetting the orientation and had to pull them out of the block and re-insert again...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on July 21, 2014, 11:00:41 PM
Hi Arnold,

Looking good.  The white A4 sheet helps the parts stand out in the picture and gives a good impression of scale.
Watching with great interest.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on July 21, 2014, 11:29:53 PM
It's beginning to take shape Vince - I'm still watching the good work  :ThumbsUp:

regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on July 22, 2014, 12:37:10 AM
Vince, I apologize for not having checked in in a while. Your progress is delightful to see...its looking every bit the part of a Corliss now. Some really nice work you have done t here and I promise to stay closer up to date from now on. :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on July 22, 2014, 09:20:47 AM
Roger that Bob.

Distance from cutout to side of outrigger pedestal is 1/32".

So am I misreading the plan on the base?

Vince

In a word NO. I blew the plan up and guess what, instead of taking the measurements from the centre of the drill holes, I'd managed to take them from the top (bloody quadrant snaps should have turned it off  :killcomputer: ) :slap: :toilet_claw:

Attached is an amended PDF. along with my apologies.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 22, 2014, 03:49:47 PM
Thanks guys for the support and the patience of sticking with me.  It's been 18 months since I started this project.  I am a very slow worker (not like Jo and Stan who usually fly through a build and leave me breathless).  Hopefully, next year I may be able to double my output (fingers crossed).

Quote
I hope you don't mind if I steal adopt your punch-mark idea for the valves.

Arnold, no worries, I've been adopting your methods also.

Bob, thanks for the correction.  I am not trying to nit-pick your plans but just would like that at the end we can come out with a set of plans with minimum discrepancies.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Camm-1 on July 22, 2014, 04:07:36 PM
I belive it´s going to be a great looking engine Vince :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on July 22, 2014, 11:20:56 PM

Bob, thanks for the correction.  I am not trying to nit-pick your plans but just would like that at the end we can come out with a set of plans with minimum discrepancies.

Vince

Vince,

I am most grateful for your attention and input to the plans. It's not nit picking it's getting things right. Commercial drafting companies pay big bucks to drawing checkers.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 23, 2014, 05:31:30 PM
Today I feel elated.  The girls got their exam results.  The younger one in Masters of Pharmacy and the older one who is in the UK, Masters in Conservation Science.

This gave me an added boost to get off my backside and go and look for something suitable for the base.  Managed to get hold of a piece of aluminium flatbar 8mm thick.  It's not as wide as in the plans.  It's 200mm wide, a little smaller than 8.5", but I think I can manage to make it work.

When I got back to the workshop, I put it on the mill table and realised that I might have some problems cleaning up the sides.  It's as big as the mill table!

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200292.JPG)

This evening I came up with a plan.  I used a cast iron riser block which was originally meant for a Clarke 3-in-1 lathe and which I got dirt cheap.  Indicated it on the mill table.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200293.JPG)

Don't laugh at the next photo.

I used a couple of G-Clamps to fix it to the riser block.  Cleaned up about three quarters of the top side.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200294.JPG)

I then slid it sideways and did the rest.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200295.JPG)

Managed to do both the long sides.  Next time I will figure out how to do the short sides.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on July 23, 2014, 06:06:12 PM
Congratulations Vince, you must be very proud  :)

and no, I'm for one definitely not laughing - nice bit of 'get you by' thinking there. You should have no problems with the ends but it will be hanging well out the front of the mill when you do  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on July 24, 2014, 08:12:33 PM
Hi Vince,

Congratulations on the girls getting their masters !

Turn the riser over and clamp the plate to the top.  Use something like a strip of wood under the clamps, it might sing like a bird if you don't.

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on July 24, 2014, 08:51:34 PM
Bet your a proud Popa Vince. Congrats on the girls bud and the engine is looking pretty dam good.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on July 24, 2014, 11:09:05 PM
Vince ole' pal,,,,,,,,,, hey! I am still following along and loving it!   Some VERY nice work you are doing. Yeah, I know, slow it may seem but I am LOVING it! Many at hers are as well. Seeing as how I *may* be moving to another state in the next few months it is always a pleasure to witness nice work in progress as I have not been able to produce many chips. :(


BC1
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 26, 2014, 12:24:58 PM
Well, the two short sides have been done.  After a bit of head scratching it was decided that the best setup for this op was to clamp the plate to the mill table with lots of overhang.  I also clamped an angle plate to the mill table to keep the plate perpendicular to the mill table.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200296.JPG)

The base is nearly 17" long and I have a feeling that it is too long and will require trimming at a later stage.  So, I left the length of the plate longer than plan and see later how much trimming it needs.

I next marked the cutout for the flywheel. A little more head scratching and then mounted the plate to the mill table.  I used a pair of 1-2-3 blocks as spacers below the plate.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200297.JPG)

First slot done.  Three to go.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on July 26, 2014, 05:14:12 PM
Nice work on an oversized piece, Vince.
With something like this, the setup and measurement steps are far more important to show than the cuts - which tend to be anticlimactic. It would really help me if you show the steps involved in this.

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 26, 2014, 06:39:27 PM
Sure Alan no problem.

As soon as I remove the base plate from the mill table I will take a couple of posed photos of how I did the measurement and marking.

Some other things I did which may be of interest to you are the following:

As the base plate is not as wide as the plans specify, I had to decide which side I should use as a reference.  I chose the long side furthest away from the flywheel.  After calculating the distances for the cutout, I roughly marked them out using a pencil and ruler.  I blued my pencil marks and then using the riser block (I had previously used) as support and to keep the base plate vertical for marking.  Used a height gauge for marking.

Put the base plate on the mill table and used a pair of 1-2-3 blocks as a spacer between the plate and table.  Made sure that my marked lines were indicated to the mill table.

For cutting, I first drilled the four corners of the cutout using a 6mm drill and then milled all four slots until the waste material fell off.  At this stage, the cutout is still undersize by 0.5mm.  Tomorrow I will clean it up and bring it to size using a 6mm endmill.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 28, 2014, 09:56:33 AM
This morning I was going to take off the base plate from the mill table so that I can mark out the position of the tapped holes for the bearing pedestals and all of a sudden I realised  :Doh: that I could do them whilst the base plate was still attached in position.  Luckily, I had written down the X, Y coordinates of the corners of the cutout.  So after a little addition and subtraction I calculated the X, Y coordinates for the tapped holes.

Alan, this is a posed photo of the setup I used for marking the cutout.  Hope it helps.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200299.JPG)

Quickly assembled everything to the base plate so that I can see for the first time how the flywheel will look.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200298.JPG)

As suspected, the base is a little long and I think I can remove 1" from the back and 1.5" from the front.  We will see later.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on July 28, 2014, 11:34:30 AM
Comming along well and some nice solutions to machining bits that are to big  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:

Still watching along in the background  :popcorn:  :DrinkPint:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 03, 2014, 10:44:19 AM
What a lovely model Arnold has made. :praise2: :praise2:
And it really runs over slowly. :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:

Let's start off with the bad news.

A trusty companion I had in the garage has left me.  My very old digital camera has given up its ghost.  Kaput.  Fortunately I only lost one shot because it has also corrupted the SD card. I have been cajoling it to work for the last 12 months.

OK. So what did I do on my Corliss?  Not much.  I drilled and tapped 3mm two holes in the flywheel for the grub screws.  I set it up in the tilting vice and tilted just enough so that the chuck would be clear of the flywheel rim.  This is the shot that I lost so this one is a posed photo without the tilt.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200300.jpg)

Next I finished up the rods from the eccentric to the lever and from the lever to that (Jo is going to love this) oscillating thingy on the cylinder block.  I thought that I would have to remake the bent lever but I was lucky and the two bends came out well first time around.  The nuts behind the forked end of the rods are not really required but I put them there just for looks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200301.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200302.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200303.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200304.jpg)

I think that all that remains are the valve bonnets and the arms and levers.  I haven't done them yet because I still haven't found locally the O rings and the small screws for the arms.  Most probably I will have to get them from the UK.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 03, 2014, 02:58:39 PM
Hi Vince, sorry about your lose buddy but it looks like your still doing OK. Your photos are still tops and the work looks great. Your getting closer and bet it runs just as great as Arnold's.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 03, 2014, 03:28:28 PM
Some nice progress there Vince. Getting that base machined is a major hurdle out of the way I know. So have you replaced your trusty friend yet?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on August 03, 2014, 06:49:41 PM
Hi Vince, that looks good. Now the time starts where you are doing the cosmetics and every time you leave the shop the engine is looking nicer.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 03, 2014, 07:13:34 PM
Coming along Nicely Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Thank you!

I didn't fit the O-rings on mine; I just used some thick oil on the valves, and they seal very well, so maybe you shouldn't bother with those either.  I got the slotted screws from my local optician, so you might be able to do that as well...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 04, 2014, 09:14:14 PM
Thanks Don, Bill, Achim and Arnold.

Bill, at the moment I am borrowing my daughter's camera.

Arnold, most probably I will do it like yours with no o rings and see how it goes.  I am concentrating more on the arms and levers.  Can't wait to give it some air and see if turns.  Still have not decided if I will do the arms as per plans with a grub screw or like you did them.  Your method seems to give better clamping on the rod. Ended up with a headache thinking about it.

Arnold, those optician screws you used are they 1.6mm?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 04, 2014, 09:44:34 PM
Hi Vince

I used 1.4 mm screws, as the 1.6mm ones' heads were a bit big and would have ended up sticking out over the sides of the arms.  1.6mm might actually work better if you turn down the heads a bit to fit though, for a better clamping force.

Looking forward to the first air  :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 07, 2014, 09:15:51 PM
Thanks Arnold for the info.

These last few days I haven't done anything on the Corliss except turning the flywheel by hand and watching the links move whilst trying to figure out the best way of doing the final parts - the arms that link to the valves.

I did some online shopping for some tools that I might need for them and have been googling for 2mm and 1.4mm brass hex head bolts.  I found one place in the UK that had them, but just my luck, were out of stock.  I found another source in the States but I am leaving that as a last resort.

If anybody knows of a source for this hardware in the UK could you please advise.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on August 07, 2014, 11:39:24 PM
Bruce Engineering / Polly

http://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/sections/bruce-engineering/docs/Catalogue-May-2014.pdf

About half way down the list.

There is some interesting stuff here as well.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=628.0

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on August 08, 2014, 06:34:16 AM
Hi Vince, I know this is not a UK source, but it seems, they do offer what you are looking for.
 http://www.modellbauschrauben.de/shop_detail.php?gruppid=3  (http://www.modellbauschrauben.de/shop_detail.php?gruppid=3)
They are very well sorted.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Stuart on August 08, 2014, 07:27:08 AM
Vince

do you need brass ? if not this firemen the UK do some small Stainless fixings amongst other things

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/index2.htm

I have no connection with them only a satisfied customer


Stuart
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 11, 2014, 10:26:06 AM
Thanks Phil, Achim and Stuart for the links.

I think I have found a French site which has what I want from one of the links. It has an English translation (I am a bit lazy) and also delivers to Malta.  Their prices are also not that bad.

I had a look at Polly Engineering (which also had what I need) but unfortunately I was put off by the fact that I have to send them my credit card details and also the three digit security code by email so that payment can be affected.

Again thanks gents.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 11, 2014, 10:39:20 AM
I have been working on one of the levers for the valve.  I have been thinking about how to do them for a while and finally settled on Arnold's method with a slight variation.

This will be a one piece construction.  I am using 8MM hex brass.  Indicated the dividing head on the mill and drilled the two 2mm holes spaced at 15.55mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200305.jpg)

As can be seen I rigged up a simple jack to support the material for drilling and milling.  Next, milled it to a thickness of 2.4mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200306.jpg)

Off to the lathe, where I centre drilled the brass so that it can be supported by a live centre for the lathe operation.  The centre portion was turned to 1.67mm.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200307.jpg)

I only need four but made five just in case.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200308.jpg)

Now to clean up the ends and make them round.  I think it is going to be fun.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on August 11, 2014, 09:35:06 PM
Hi Vince,


I can see you are going to have fun machining those ends.   :o

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 12, 2014, 12:32:29 AM
Still following bud, those are going to be fun to finish. You coming along great Vince.  :ThumbsUp:


 :popcorn:
Don

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 12, 2014, 12:50:23 AM
Nice work on the levers Vince. Delicate little things to be sure!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 14, 2014, 11:32:03 AM
Thanks guys for the encouragement as I need it.  I finished off those rods.  I was going to leave them for when I do the other arms as they all need the same setup for rounding off but I sort of hit a brick wall.  :wallbang:

I am finding it difficult how to do the other arm and from what material.  Most probably I will get some inspiration when I get the hardware I ordered from France.  So, today, I decided to finish off the rods and that would also test the setup I had in mind.

When I got the dividing head, it came with a chuck and backplate which was screwed into the nose of the head.  It had a Myford thread, so at that time I had also got an 2MT adaptor for the chuck with the idea of using the chuck on the rotary table.  I have never used the adaptor till today.

Indicated the rotary table with the adaptor in it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200309.jpg)

Screwed in the chuck and clamped a piece of 5mm BMS in it.  Drilled and tapped for 2mm and bolted on one of the unfinished rods.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200310.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200311.jpg)

Started rounding off the ends of the rod.  It worked.  In no time I finished all the rods.  It took more time to do the setup.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200312.jpg)

Well, at least, they are out of the way.  They are not perfect but they will have to do.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on August 14, 2014, 12:08:20 PM
  They are not perfect but they will have to do.

Well they look pretty damn good to me Vince - nice piece of 'watchmaking' there  :ThumbsUp: I'm taking a keen interest in this engine since seeing Arnolds run - Looking forward to seeing yours do the same

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 14, 2014, 04:59:11 PM
Nicely done Vince - that's the most fiddly bits of the engine complete  :ThumbsUp:

The other arms are small, but not as fiddly to make.

Kind regards, Arnold
 
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 14, 2014, 07:47:05 PM
Thanks Ramon and Arnold.

Arnold, one of the problems I am having with the other arm is that I cannot figure out the distance between the holes.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 14, 2014, 08:11:00 PM
Hi Vince

It's 5/16" / 8mm center-to-center.  Not super critical though.  I should have made mine 7.5mm (as I "scaled" my build at 1" = 24mm), but used 8mm which actually opens the valves slightly more while in operation.  At rest, this means the valve arms (the ones you still need to make) are not quite parallel visually, but it's barely noticeable.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on August 15, 2014, 05:48:43 AM
Hi Vince, that is looking very good. If you are not sure with the length of any linkage, rod or level, you can make a provisional one first. This can be made by wire or a simple wooden strip. After checking the function you make a proper one in the right length.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2014, 10:20:02 AM
Thanks Arnold and Achim for the suggestions.

Fortunately, Bob (Maryak) pointed me in the right direction.  The page I was using was the original first edition plan.  There was a revised page with the dimension that I needed which I did not realise that I had. :facepalm2:

Thanks Bob.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on August 15, 2014, 01:30:34 PM
Nicely done Vince...also looking forward to seeing yours run!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2014, 04:50:18 PM
Quote
also looking forward to seeing yours run!!

Me too Bill, me too!!

Today is a public holiday here.  It is a religious holiday but it also serves to commemorate the day that our tiny island was saved on this day 1942.  Although the British call it Operation Pedestal, we call it the Santa Maria Convoy.  Out of 14 ships, only 5 crippled into the Grand Harbour on that day which was enough.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Pedestal (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Pedestal)

It felt a waste to let the day pass without doing anything on the Corliss.  Although the plan was to do them later, I started work on the valve bonnets.  I made four blanks from a piece of 16mm brass.  Here I am milling the four of them together to get the proper height.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200313.jpg)

I then drilled the four 2mm mounting holes in each blank.  I could have drilled and reamed the centre 3mm hole also but I thought it would be better to mark it at a later stage.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200314.jpg)

And this is all I managed to do for today.  They still have some more work to be done on them.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200315.jpg)

Looking at this last photo, with one of the blanks bolted on, I still have not decided whether I should use bolts or studs.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on August 15, 2014, 07:46:37 PM
Thanks guys for the encouragement as I need it.  I finished off those rods.  I was going to leave them for when I do the other arms as they all need the same setup for rounding off but I sort of hit a brick wall.  :wallbang:

Screwed in the chuck and clamped a piece of 5mm BMS in it.  Drilled and tapped for 2mm and bolted on one of the unfinished rods.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200310.jpg)


Started rounding off the ends of the rod.  It worked.  In no time I finished all the rods.  It took more time to do the setup.
Well, at least, they are out of the way.  They are not perfect but they will have to do.

Vince


Hi Vince,
I would have made a small jig to do one end of that lot in one go.  A bit like a chain joint link but with a threaded pin with a nut on top to secure them and a pin or nut and bolt through the other end to keep them all together.


They do look good though.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:



Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 15, 2014, 07:55:29 PM
Hi Baron

I actually thought about that but as I was not certain if this setup would work, I did not want to risk ruining them all at once.  When I did the first one and it was done in no time at all, I decided to play it safe and do them all one by one.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on August 18, 2014, 05:32:38 PM
Hi Baron

I actually thought about that but as I was not certain if this setup would work, I did not want to risk ruining them all at once.  When I did the first one and it was done in no time at all, I decided to play it safe and do them all one by one.

Vince


I don't blame you  :)  There is a lot of hard work gone in to doing this engine.  It isn't mass production.



Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 20, 2014, 03:41:18 PM
Finally, managed to finish the valve bonnets.

First thing I did was a temporary prick punch from a length of 6mm stainless steel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200316.jpg)

I also marked each valve, valve hole and valve bonnet so that each one always goes in the same place.  Fixed the valve bonnets in place and using the prick punch, marked for the 3mm holes to be drilled and reamed.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200317.jpg)

At the end I ended up opening up the reamed 3mm hole with a 3.1mm drill for a better fit.

Next, a simple fixture was made to machine the front part of the bonnet.  Clamped a piece of aluminium in the lathe and faced it off.  Drilled and tapped for 3mm. Used also a 10mm diameter aluminium washer I had also previously made.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200318.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200319.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200320.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200321.jpg)

All four valve bonnets finished and also made some gaskets for them.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on August 20, 2014, 10:56:22 PM
Hi Vince  - more nice work and another step further  :ThumbsUp:

I see you have punctured your gaskets - have you thought about making a small tool like this as the end result is certainly worth taking the time to do so
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PRmsLppzMAM/Ts0wkmvO2oI/AAAAAAAAFgE/ZBOGHWp7lXs/s912/DSCN3699.JPG)

By running it in a drill press and bringing it down onto one of those self healing cutting mats - the depth stop is set so it just cuts through the paper - you get very easily created 'perfect' holes. It's surprisingly easy to align it over marked positions 'by eye' too
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6vCZk6OTKx8/Ts0wn-LSs4I/AAAAAAAAFgM/cHl_iprnUBQ/s912/DSCN3701.JPG)

The slugs are readily picked out of the hole with a piece of wire.

Hope this may be of use

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on August 21, 2014, 02:11:31 AM
Hi Vince, still following you buddy. The end is getting closer bud and the parts are looking good. I do like Ramon's hole cutter very ingenious setup.

 :popcorn:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 24, 2014, 08:41:19 AM
Thanks Ramon and Don for the comments and encouragement.

Ramon, that idea has been filed, although I do not know if it will work on these very small gaskets.

I still have not received the miniature (1.4mm) hardware I ordered from France and I would like to have them available before work starts on the last four identical arms for this model.  So, during this week I have made a dozen plans, a bit of experimentation (mostly unsuccessful) on what will work and what will not, and a lot of head scratching.

I was subconsciously trying not to rush these last parts, but yesterday I said what the heck, and started doing something on these arms.  The original plans for this item called for a miniature grub screw to fix it to the valve spindle.  From the outset, I thought that this method will not work for me.  The revised plans changed to fixing the arm by either loctite or a pin.  I still did not like this method because there is no possibility of adjustments.  What I liked is Arnold's method of clamping it to the spindle.

The only thing I am going to use from the plans is the distance of 0.313" between both holes.  I used stainless for these parts and here they are with what I managed to do till now.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200322.jpg)

I still have to stop and wait for the 1.4mm bolts to arrive.  Hopefully this week.

The big hole is a 3mm reamed hole and the small one is a 2mm tapped hole.  During tapping I broke the second tap so now I have two sets of 2mm taps with the second tap broken.  Still I managed to do all of them using the first and final tap.

This occurrence made me change plans (again).  There is no way that I am going to tap four 1.4mm holes.  So most probably, I will be doing a 1.4mm clearance hole and using a bolt and nut for clamping.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 28, 2014, 05:40:20 PM
Last Monday, the miniature hardware arrived from France and today I made two temporary spanners for them.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200323.jpg)

The bottom one is a 1.4mm bolt and the top one for comparison is a 2mm bolt.  Really small.  I have to be careful not to lose them!  Do miniature spanners exist for these sizes?

Now I can continue on the arms.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 28, 2014, 05:52:14 PM
Vince, I have spanners down to 3mm A/F (10BA) and 3.2mm as metric sizes. Smaller ones I have had to make myself.

Box spanners are easy to make just use a cap head screw. I have also been toying with the idea of possibly converting them into spanners by silver soldering on a handle but have not tried yet.

A 1.4mm should be the same size as a 12BA, it depends if it has a 12BA sized head which is 2.3mm A/F. Which is near enough a 3/32" hex to get away with any cap head that fits that size Allen key  ;).

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sco on August 28, 2014, 05:54:25 PM
Vince,

What was your source for those bolts?

Simon.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 28, 2014, 06:03:16 PM
Like yourself, Jo, my smallest spanner is 3mm AF.  These bolts have 2mm AF.  I love your idea of using metric cap head screws.  I wonder which size of metric cap head screws uses 2mm AF.  I have to investigate this.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 28, 2014, 06:05:00 PM
Simon

This is their website:

http://www.micro-modele.fr/

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 28, 2014, 06:13:34 PM
After a quick search on the internet I think I found that 2.5mm socket head screws have a 2mm AF. :Mad:

No chance of getting them here.  Anything less than 3mm is a no-no.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 28, 2014, 06:19:41 PM
I wonder which size of metric cap head screws uses 2mm AF.  I have to investigate this.

Vince

I have some 6BA cap head screws which take a 2mm Allen screw. But sadly BAs are not what they used to be to get hold of  :shrug:

M3 cap head is too big, I don't have any M4 grubs  :-\.

Jo
- - -
P.S. I could post a couple to you...
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 28, 2014, 06:29:31 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp: - love the bolts!

M3 grub screws uses 2mm AF allen key as well :)  You'll just have to turn the threads off a bit, but shouldn't be a problem.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 28, 2014, 06:40:51 PM
Thanks for the offer Jo but I can manage with my homemade spanners.

Arnold, I think that 3 mm grub screws use a 1.5 mm socket but I will check it tomorrow when I go to the garage.  4 mm grub screws use 2mm sockets. Will check tomorrow.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sco on August 28, 2014, 07:37:39 PM
Simon

This is their website:

http://www.micro-modele.fr/

Vince

Vince that looks a really useful website - thanks very much!

Simon.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 29, 2014, 01:30:20 PM
This morning I managed to find a 3mm and also a 4mm grub screw.  The socket of the 4mm grub screw fitted perfectly in the hex head of the 1.4mm bolt.  So I quickly made a box spanner using the grub screw and a piece of 5mm mild steel.

I also drilled the first 1.4mm hole and fitted the 1.4mm hardware to see how it will look.  That's when I realised that across flat size of the nut is larger than the bolt.  It is 3mm AF.  No problem, I have a spanner that size, or so I thought.  Could not find it.  Oh well I just have to make myself one.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200324.jpg)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on August 29, 2014, 02:19:20 PM
I hate it when you get over sized nuts  :(.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on August 31, 2014, 10:42:27 AM
YESS!!!

All the parts for the Corliss are finally finished!!  The final four arms took longer than anticipated to finish but I am happy to say that they are out of the way.

The next operation on these parts was to cut a slit at the back.  They were ganged together and using a 0.25mm slitting saw the slit was slowly done.  I did not think I would be able to do it but I guess beginner's luck prevailed on that day.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200325.jpg)

A trial fit to see if it would actually clamp to the valve spindle.  Good thing I did that homemade box spanner and open ended spanner!  Made life so much easier.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200326.jpg)

No chance of the arm getting loose on the valve spindle.  The excess material at the front of the arm was removed with a hacksaw and using the same setup for the connecting rods, the front part was rounded off.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200327.jpg)

A little fettling and polishing later, and the arms fitted to see how they look.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200328.jpg)

All that remains now is to assemble it all, check for binding and put some air into it.  Unfortunately, this has to wait as I need to be abroad.  No prizes for guessing where.

I think at lot of work has to be done on the fit between the crosshead and crosshead guide.  I am not sure what type of fit it should be.  Should it be a sliding fit like a piston and cylinder or can it be a little loose?  Any comments on this would be highly appreciated.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on August 31, 2014, 10:53:57 AM
Well done Vince  :ThumbsUp: Cant wait to see it run  :D

The fit should be a nice slide fit perhaps just a 'smidgeon' less than a piston / liner fit but without any shake (sideways movement - that would be 'vertical' movment as installed) and without any binding or tight spots. Plenty of oil - it will soon bed in  ;)

Great work - I'm getting more and more distracted ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on August 31, 2014, 01:05:33 PM
 :ThumbsUp:   - Such an untimely business trip  :LittleDevil:

Like Ramon said - a nice smooth sliding fit - not quite as close as a piston-to-cylinder fit, but without slop, otherwise you'll get binding at the cylinder head pack nut...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on August 31, 2014, 04:47:16 PM
Hi Vince, I think the first video of the first motion is coming closer.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 01, 2014, 07:00:49 PM
Thanks Ramon, Arnold and Achim for the comments and suggestions. 

Yes, I am really getting excited and looking forward to put some air into it.  Infact, yesterday, although not planned, I went again to the garage and did some more work on it.  After some sanding and polishing I managed to get the piston, crosshead and crosshead guide to move the flywheel smoothly without binding.  Obviously I am turning the flywheel by hand at this stage.

What I noticed was that if I turn the flywheel anti-clockwise, it tends to unscrew the crank pin.  So this engine has to turn clockwise.  Also I noted, that there is a slight sideways movement of the crank when turning the flywheel.  If I loosen the crank pin slightly this stops.  So most probably I might have to redo the crank pin slightly longer so that there is a clearance between the connecting rod end and the crank.

We will see.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on September 01, 2014, 10:48:58 PM
What I noticed was that if I turn the flywheel anti-clockwise, it tends to unscrew the crank pin.  So this engine has to turn clockwise.  Also I noted, that there is a slight sideways movement of the crank when turning the flywheel.  If I loosen the crank pin slightly this stops.  So most probably I might have to redo the crank pin slightly longer so that there is a clearance between the connecting rod end and the crank.

Yes - it should turn clockwise - need to change mine  ;) .  I added a 0.5mm thick brass washer (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1333.msg29440#msg29440) between the con-rod end and the crank web and compensated the crank screw length accordingly; it's a bit of a hassle to fit at assembly, but prevents the con-rod end rubbing against the crank web - reducing friction and keeping things better aligned.  Also, the spacers I made for the axle helps to keep alignment - you asked about that at some point - these keep the con-rod in line properly without letting the axle drift...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on September 02, 2014, 12:34:56 AM
Nice Vince, those fiddly little parts turned out very well. Things are getting close now but it will be worth the wait...have a good trip!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 02, 2014, 01:24:37 PM
Thanks Bill and Arnold.

Arnold, I totally forgot about that extra washer you had made.  Have to think about this.  Do I make that washer and remake the crank pin or do I just just skim off a little from the connecting rod end and keep the same crank pin?  We'll see.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 06, 2014, 05:21:28 PM
IT LIVES!!!

Since I came back home, I have been just fiddling with the Corliss.  This morning I decided to take the plunge and put some air into it.  So I printed the instructions how to set the valves from Arnold's thread and was going to the garage with them but all of a sudden I found out I had to do two urgent errands for the kids, so the morning and afternoon fizzled off.

This evening, I found some spare time and went to at least set the valves.  They are really fiddly little buggers those linkages but I blessed my stars that I had made that miniature box spanner and open ended spanner.

I was going back home when I decided to put some air in it.  I did not even make an air adaptor for it and held the inlet pipe manually.  Set it to 20 psi and applied air.  It shot off and as I was not expecting anything to happen, it gave me a fright and let off everything.  It can turn with less than 5 psi.

Tomorrow I will try to take a video.  I am so happy that I can't contain myself.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on September 06, 2014, 05:29:57 PM
That's great Vince and we have all been waiting for the fInally and seeing it run. Come on man we want to see a video.  :pinkelephant:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2014, 05:39:50 PM
 :pics:

Teasing us   :stickpoke:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 06, 2014, 05:44:38 PM
Thanks Don and Jo.

Tomorrow Jo tomorrow.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on September 06, 2014, 05:47:04 PM
I just got in from sailing Vince - literally- and hearing this has fair made my day. Well done indeed :ThumbsUp: I know that feeling all to well so am really pleased for you.

Pics and video when you can - get it all finished off first though  ;) keep these 'impatient buggers' waiting a bit longer- Sorry Don and Jo  ;)

Brilliant  :ThumbsUp:

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on September 06, 2014, 07:32:21 PM
Hi Vince, these are good news. Take some time, sit down in front of your Corliss and enjoy the motion. Time will passing by and the e-motor of the compressor will get hot. I think these are the moments we all like very much.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 06, 2014, 09:26:50 PM
Thanks Ramon and Achim.

I really was not expecting it to run.  It must be true what they say about steam engines that they are easier to get to run.

Can't wait till tomorrow to give it another run and a video for posterity.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on September 07, 2014, 01:52:58 AM
 :ThumbsUp: :whoohoo: :pinkelephant: :cartwheel: :cheers:

Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 07, 2014, 07:57:22 AM
This morning went early to the garage.  First order of the day was making a quick air adaptor.  This was made from 6mm threaded rod and drilled right through with a 4mm drill.  That worked nicely.

Using my daughter's digital camera I took a video but when I uploaded it to the laptop found out there was no sound.  Drat.  OK so I used an ipad instead.  That came out OK.  I also managed to upload it to YouTube with the ipad.  Now I have to figure out how to transfer the file to the laptop.

As promised here is the video.  Do not look at all the clutter hanging around.

[youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjaW1frBMk0[/youtube1]

As you can see from the video, I still have the problem of the crankshaft axial movement.  Still have not figured out why.  Most probably I will end up making spacers like Arnold did.  Arnold, if you are reading this, did you make the spacers from bronze or brass.

Vince

P.S.  I forgot to say that no gaskets were used and no piston packing.  The engine still has lots of work to finish it off
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on September 07, 2014, 08:34:05 AM
 :whoohoo:

Its alive  8)

Nice one Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on September 07, 2014, 08:42:44 AM
Hi Vince, a big step forward. Already now the engine is running very smoothly, this is the result or your very precise working on all parts. Running with low pressure and low revs shows this very clearly. All your final adjustment will make it better. I think it doesn't matter if the spacer for the  crankshaft will be brass or bronze, there will be no big load to it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on September 07, 2014, 09:08:07 AM
Hi Vince - I can see that grin from here  :D Congratulations indeed - it runs a real treat.

Re the cycling flywheel - this may be of use to you.  I had this problem on the Waller engine too and after quite a bit of checking why it appeared to come down to a minute difference between the two bearing heights. This obviously puts the crank 'disc' fractionally out of square which seemingly creates the sideways movement. Inserting different shims quickly showed this to be the case and once the thickness was established a proper one (2 thou) made - the engine now turns with the merest hint of sideways oscillation.

It appears you have a feeler gauge under the pedestal so you may be on this track already - but it's worth refining   ;)

Brilliant result - I am very encouraged by yours and Arnolds results  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on September 07, 2014, 10:37:07 AM
 :whoohoo:

Yours doesn't even knock - well done Vince  :praise2:

Like Achim mentioned, you can make the spacers from brass or bronze.  Even steel or stainless steel will be just fine.  I happened to make mine from brass, as I had suitable stock on hand.

Good luck on the finishing; it takes a surprising amount of time to do.  Once done though, it's a really nice engine to have, and a really good runner.  As you found out, it doesn't take a lot of pressure to run, and after some running in, it's quite possible to run it on breath-power.

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on September 07, 2014, 11:33:44 AM
You must be a very happy man indeed to have done this. A beautiful piece of work, well worth all the effort. Goes well too!

Cheers, Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on September 07, 2014, 03:52:37 PM
How exciting! That is great Vince - it runs beautifully.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

With all this expert advice pouring in, you'll undoubtedly get any little glitches worked out.

Beautiful work, and congratulations on her first run! (or second, or whatever it is :)).

Wonderful work Vince,
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on September 07, 2014, 04:40:51 PM
Hey Vince, that is just wonderful! I bet that you are just a pleased as can be.

Congrats on a real nice runner, it will be fun to see how you go about finishing her up.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on September 07, 2014, 06:21:17 PM
 :whoohoo: very nice, Vince!

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on September 07, 2014, 07:01:55 PM
Gee Vince, I have been waiting for this and I am still behind everyone else. Just Awesome man, she sure runs smooth. Now the biggest part comes into play finishing it. I enjoy finishing an engine because that's what makes it all worth while. I like.................... :praise2:


Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on September 07, 2014, 08:50:43 PM
Fantastic Vince!!  Quite an accomplishment and I know you must be very proud of it!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 08, 2014, 04:51:22 PM
Thanks guys (that's including you Jo) for the good wishes.  And yes, I had a grin that Alice in Wonderland's Cheshire cat would be jealous of.

Spent most of yesterday just running it (that must have given the new compressor a good run in).

Today started with the finishing phase which I suspect is not going to be short.  Made an 8mm bronze spacer which will be placed between the crank web and the bearing which solved the axial movement of the crank.  I may come back to this at a later stage.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on September 08, 2014, 08:16:23 PM
A lovely piece of work, Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 11, 2014, 10:43:14 AM
Thanks Alan.

I had already decided to use bolts on this model but recently I started to have a change of heart about this.  Studs might look better.  The thing is, when using bolts for fixing the engine to the base, I can remove the cylinder block without touching the rest of the engine.  So, I made bolts which in use look just like studs.  I saw this somewhere else but can't remember where.

Used 5mm threaded rod which was finished to length and after a good clean in an ultrasonic cleaner, the nut was superglued to the threaded rod.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200329.jpg)

Quite happy with the result.  Infact I am going to use the same method for the mounting of the aft part of the engine.

Now I have two questions.

1) Where would the pulley for the governor (if it ever gets done) be located?

2) The engine has been nicely run every day but have a question about the timing.  I used Jerry's instructions for setting it up.

Quote
I have not seen any instructions on how to set the valves for initial testing.  It is not difficult.  Here is how I would start out.

•Set the crank horizontal - either TDC or BDC.
•Set the eccentric at a 90° angle to the crank, placing the high point off the eccentric up.
•Adjust the length of the eccentric rod so that the lever is vertical.
•Adjust the length of the rod from the lever to the wrist plate so that the wrist plate is vertical (12 o'clock)
•Adjust each valve so that valve edge is at the edge of its respective port.
•rotate the flywheel so that the crank is vertical.

When I set the valve to be at the edge of it's respective port I left the port uncovered (open).  So, when the piston is at mid travel, all the ports are open.  Is this correct.

Thank you for your comments.

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 12, 2014, 06:13:01 PM
I have answered the second question myself.  I was mistaken.  All the ports are open at TDC and BDC and not at the piston mid travel.  I guess that it is normal for all the ports to be open at these two positions.

Today I have started dismantling the engine.  Was very reluctant to do it but I guess it has to be done if I want to finish it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on September 13, 2014, 06:58:45 PM
 ;) It's heartbreaking to disassemble... But so worth it in the end.

I used inverse valve settings to yours on mine; all the valves are closed at TDC and BDC, rather than open; this prevents blow-by.  Not a big issue on our air-driven engines, but on live steam it does matter - wasted air on a model is nothing, but on live steam, it equates to wasted steam that in turn is very inefficient. 
As the eccentric runs 90o out of phase with the crank, at both TDC and BDC the eccentric disk is in it's "neutral" / middle position with all valves "just" closed.  As the crank is rotated away from TDC/BDC, the eccentric disk opens the intake valve on one (let's say "inboard") end of the cylinder and the exhaust valve on the other ("outboard") end of the cylinder.  The same action serves to "close" the exhaust valve on the "inboard" end even further, while also closing the intake valve on the "outboard" end further.  As both these valves were already closed, the "even further" bit essentially just keep them closed - even though the valve is rotating.  IMHO, there should only ever be one inlet and one exhaust valve open at the same time through the engine stroke, while at TDC and BDC all valves should be closed - just barely.  OK, this is a pretty simple point of view - and I'm totally discounting "lead" and "lap" - when these are included, things get mind-bending - though the Victorian engineers had a good grasp on that.

 ;D Faux studs - after making proper ones for all the M3 holes on the engine, I didn't fancy making 32+ M2 ones for the valve covers, so also made them the same as you did.  Didn't superglue the nuts though; just fouled the top threads and forced the nuts onto the fouled threads; that locked them up well enough.  Don't let Jo catch you though  :Lol:

As to the pulley location, I can't find from the plans where Bob intended to put it...  There's two possibilities though. 
1) There's enough space between the crank web and the bearing column to fit it - the easiest way will be to Loctite it to the crankshaft there. 
2) Make a new eccentric that actually incorporates the pulley; the space between the normal eccentric position and the bearing column might be a bit tight though.  From what I can visualize, the pulley will have to be on the crank side of the eccentric, otherwise the crank rod will interfere with the belt path.  There's quite a bit of room toward the flywheel from the eccentric though, so by adding a bend in the eccentric rod between the eccentric and pivot, one can move the eccentric closer to the flywheel to increase the space for the pulley between the eccentric and bearing column.  Hope this makes sense...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on September 13, 2014, 07:50:56 PM
Looks and sounds good  :praise2:  :praise2: You are now on the last 20% that also takes 80% of the time  ::)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 13, 2014, 09:04:40 PM
Thanks Roger and also thank you Arnold for the detailed reply.

Regarding the governor pulley, I think the most sensible place to put it is between the crank web and the bearing.  If that is the place, then it would replace the extra spacer I made but like you I do not think it was shown on any of the plans.

Today I was looking at all the plans I had downloaded to see it that pulley is shown anywhere and I found one showing a cross section of the cylinder.  I did not even know that I had it.  On this diagram, it was showing that with the piston at maximum travel, all the ports were closed.  So next time I set them up I will try with all ports closed at TDC and BTC.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on September 14, 2014, 12:39:37 AM
Hi Vince,

I thought it was in the governor files but to avoid any confusion attached is a PDF showing the location of the pulley.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 14, 2014, 05:03:28 AM
Thanks Bob.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 21, 2014, 05:31:33 AM
This week I prepped the parts that needed to be painted by cleaning, masking and priming them.  Yesterday I gave them the first coat of green spray.  I can already see that I am going to have a problem with the crosshead guide.  With this first coat of green, it does not fit anymore in it's appropriate hole.  :Mad:

I also made two more of these:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200330.jpg)

One of them is intended for the oscillating spindle on the cylinder block.  The other one is for the big end of the connecting rod for crankpin lubrication.  I am already having second thoughts about the big end one.  I do not think it will look good.  Has anyone seen a lubricator fitted onto the big end?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on September 21, 2014, 01:05:01 PM
Hi Vince - really nice work on the oilers  :ThumbsUp: I agree though it might look out of place on the big end. Usually the oil reservoir was attached to a stand offset from the big end, the oil feeding down to a 'pick up' which is concentric with the shaft and that rotates with it which in turn is connected to the crankpin via a pipe.

Smaller engines though sometimes had a 'stuffer' which contained grease ,fitted to the end itself . The screw top being given half a turn or so to push grease into the bearing. One can be seen on this pic of the Hick - Hargreaves Corliss engine at the Forncett museum.
http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/File:Im20110717Fcett-i018a.jpg

Hope that helps some

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on September 21, 2014, 04:01:59 PM
But then again Vince you wouldn't be far wrong with what you have  :insane:

Here's another pic of the same engine which is now fitted with a glass lubricator  ::) http://www.forncettsteammuseum.co.uk/Site/Photos/Pages/exhibits.html#12

Chris and I will be there a fortnight today so if any pics of this engines details would be of use please say

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 21, 2014, 07:44:50 PM
Ramon, you are killing me!

First of all thanks for that info.  I am fancying that grease pot which makes more sense in that application.  So if you and Chris are there and it is still using grease for the crankpin can you take a close up photo of the grease pot.

Thanks

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on September 21, 2014, 10:47:19 PM
Ramon, you are killing me!

I hope that's with a laugh Vince  :D

Yes, of course, I'll do that for you but in the meantime here's a couple of pics of a much smaller version I have had squirreled away.
(The cap diameter is 19mm and the hex 12.5mm AF)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XvVBJ9n3vPk/VB8tj3weuVI/AAAAAAAAL4g/5XZyDOq4jbo/s912/DSCF5478.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E4vn1uH_RrE/VB8tkM_EB7I/AAAAAAAAL4k/YIB2SV4p2wI/s912/DSCF5483.JPG)

The bottom portion as well as the top cap is loaded with grease - I had forgotten that inside there are two prongs (formed from a 'U' shaped piece of spring steel held in with a rivet) which engage the two half round recesses inside the lower half - this giving the positive indication of 'half a turn' but obviously this would not necessary in such a small scale.

Hope that helps a little more

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 22, 2014, 05:03:59 AM
Those photos are great.

I'll try to make a miniature copy of that.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 01, 2014, 05:04:19 PM
Here I am again.  Not much to report.  Progress has been a little slow.

I have primed and sprayed most of the parts except the flywheel.  I still need to do some embellishment on the flywheel.  I am still waiting for the topcoat to harden a bit before I touch it.

In the meantime I have done a miniature copy of Ramon's "stuffer".  Used his photos to copy it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200331.jpg)

Now I have to decide which version I will use.  Either the "stuffer"

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200332.jpg)

or the oiler.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200333.jpg)

Decisions, decisions.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on October 01, 2014, 06:45:06 PM
One vote for the stuffer (send me the oilers :naughty:). Both look great, but, I think the stuffer is best for the app.

E
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 01, 2014, 08:54:37 PM
I am also leaning on favoring the grease pot.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 02, 2014, 12:32:35 AM
Vince I am with you and Eric, the grease pot. Nice job by the way................... :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on October 02, 2014, 10:12:29 AM
I'm for the oiler. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on October 02, 2014, 10:24:56 AM
More nice work Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Though they both look the part I think my money's on the 'stuffer'

Incidentally I think I'm correct in saying that the name is a corruption of the original makers name - 'Staufer' - not an indication of how the grease gets forced in  ;)

Looking forward to seeing it in all it's glory

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on October 03, 2014, 05:36:32 PM
Coming along nicely, I also think that the grease pot is better in this application  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on October 04, 2014, 12:52:14 AM
In for a penny, in for a pound.......................I personally prefer the oil lubricators  ;D

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 07, 2014, 04:26:02 PM
Thanks guys for your thoughts on your preferences.

So I guess the grease pot wins 6 - 2.

You can't get more democratic than that.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on October 08, 2014, 08:06:00 AM
But Vince, think of all the turkey's democracy has given us!

Cheers, Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on October 08, 2014, 09:38:20 AM
But Vince, think of all the turkey's democracy has given us!

Cheers, Hugh.

Yes,

It's difficult to soar like an eagle when you are surrounded by turkeys  ;)

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 08, 2014, 12:12:35 PM
Vince, I am late for the vote I know but in this case I think democracy won out. Both look great but the grease cup looks more realistic there IMHO.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: philjoe5 on October 12, 2014, 03:29:21 PM
Vince,
I just found this build and must say your work is fantastic.  A friend of mine showed me the plans for this engine at a show this past weekend and pointed me here.  Thanks for your efforts.  Your postings will make great cold weather reading.

Cheers,
Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 12, 2014, 04:34:26 PM
Hi Phil.  Thanks for the compliment.  I hope you decide to do one also.  It's not that difficult although it has its challenges for a relative beginner like me, but I always found that help was always a post away.

Just a quick update.

As usual not much.  Being abroad for many days and also getting a new Xbox One (BIG distration) did not help.  I need to get the model re-assembled and working again (I hope) by the beginning of November.  It won't be finished but at least I can show it off.  I am getting into panic mode.

So started with re-assembling the front part of the cylinder.  Fitted the valve bonnets (with gaskets) and the valve disc hub.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200334.jpg)

I made a mistake here.  I next re-assembled all the valve linkages and when finished, I realised that I fitted the valve disk hub up-side-down. :cussing:

Off with everything and this time did it correctly the right way round.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200335.jpg)

Hopefully these parts won't be taken off again.  I used some 2mm half-nuts as lock nuts in the linkages as I had previously noticed that things were getting unscrewed with the motion.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on October 17, 2014, 07:23:10 AM
Looks good so far Vince  :ThumbsUp:

"Panic mode" ? - are you rushing to finish it in time for a show ?

Anyway, once you get it assembled again it will run just fine  :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 17, 2014, 05:52:53 PM

Quote
"Panic mode" ? - are you rushing to finish it in time for a show ?

Arnold, it's not a show but a forum member will be on the island and I will be showing off a little. 

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 21, 2014, 07:46:22 PM
The Corliss has been reassembled and is running even better than before with a much lower pressure.  The pressure gauge is not even moving. I am using some of the gaskets I made on the parts that I think will not be disassembled again.  I also changed the timing of the valves to their correct position.  Previously at TDC and BTC they were set to just fully open but now they are set to just fully closed.

Next week I will be abroad for the second time this month so I will not be touching it again (famous last words!) for a while.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on October 21, 2014, 09:19:15 PM
The Corliss has been reassembled and is running even better than before ...........

Great to hear Vince - looking forwards to the final video of course but pleased to hear you have it all successfully reassembled. Chris has been instructed to take lots of pics  ;)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 22, 2014, 01:16:52 AM
Gee Vince, it's not fair to have it running and not show a video.  LOL.    We'll be waiting patiently buddy whenever your ready.  :pinkelephant:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 22, 2014, 01:27:35 AM
Yeah...what Don said....we want video...we want video  :ROFL: Have a safe trip Vince and hurry back to the shop!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 22, 2014, 04:45:59 AM
Sorry guys to disappoint but I will not be taking a video at this time as it would look exactly as the previous video with an added splash of colour.  The model is far from being finished.  Obviously, I will be taking photos of the various finishing touches as I go along.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: wagnmkr on October 22, 2014, 06:01:12 PM
Well Done Vince :cheers:

Seeing another of these lovely engines running has inspired me.

I have a silly question for you and the other builders of this engine.

I think I understand that the weight of that large flywheel is what helps with the low rpm's (love it!)

I am gathering supplies for my version of the build and can't get any of the 7 1/2" thick walled pipe that the plan calls for ... but I do have 2 pieces of 5 1/2" dia. thick walled pipe.

If I slightly change things to accommodate 2 flywheels of the 5 1/2 size, is it likely to work or in your collected expert opinion, would I be wasting my time.

Cheers,

Tom
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on October 22, 2014, 08:18:05 PM
Looking forward to your progress Vince, and enjoy the shop visit!

Tom, IMHO, it will work, but would look a bit "wrong".  The 5 1/2" will look a bit small on the Corliss model, and in my own research I've never seen any Corliss style engine with two flywheels.  On the other hand, if you're only interested in a good "runner" and not concerned with overall looks, then even a single 5 1/2" flywheel should do fine; make it a bit wider (1/2" or so for extra mass) and accommodate that on the base - you'll have to make the flywheel cut-out a bit wider and move the outrigger bearing pedestal further from the main bearing block.  Without the trip mechanisms and governor, and with careful timing, the piston gets air for a large part of both the in and out strokes, and with the piston being fairly large, this allows for low pressure air use and thus slow operation.  If you build the rest of the engine a bit "loose", it'll run like a snail champion  :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 22, 2014, 08:26:04 PM
Hi Tom and thanks for having a look.

Another alternative to what Arnold has just suggested is to look for cast iron flywheels on ebay.  When I was making mine I happened to find one of nearly the same size and it was cheaper than the raw material I bought for mine.

Vince

p.s.  See reply 71 on page 8 of this build log.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: wagnmkr on October 22, 2014, 09:33:08 PM
Thanks for the quick answers.

I will keep looking to see if I can find the proper size. I did check ebay, but nothing suitable there just now. I have a couple of other places to look as well and in the end, I might just get a wafer of 12l14 and get some milling experience.

Thanks again for the help.

We now return to regular programming.

Cheers

Tom
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 23, 2014, 07:14:52 PM
Remember my famous last words from post 691?

Managed to find something else to do on the Corliss.

I made an exhaust pipe for the exhaust cover plate.  Nothing special.  Just a brass flange and a brass pipe.  As the pipe will be passing through the base and to make life easier during assembly and disassembly, I threaded one end of the pipe so I can screw it into the flange.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200336.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200337.jpg)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on October 24, 2014, 10:12:50 AM
Hi Vince,

That would look so much nicer with four studs and some nuts  :embarassed:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 24, 2014, 01:02:21 PM
The bolts are just temporary Jo.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on November 19, 2014, 09:21:28 PM
Well Done Vince :cheers:

Seeing another of these lovely engines running has inspired me.

I have a silly question for you and the other builders of this engine.

I think I understand that the weight of that large flywheel is what helps with the low rpm's (love it!)

I am gathering supplies for my version of the build and can't get any of the 7 1/2" thick walled pipe that the plan calls for ... but I do have 2 pieces of 5 1/2" dia. thick walled pipe.

If I slightly change things to accommodate 2 flywheels of the 5 1/2 size, is it likely to work or in your collected expert opinion, would I be wasting my time.

Cheers,

Tom


Hi Tom,
Have a look around any scrap dealers near you.  Old bar weights are made from cast iron and apart from making a plug for the big hole in the centre are great for things like flywheels.  I've snagged several for next to nothing.


Just a tip ! When you come to machine them take a good cut to make sure you get under the hard skin.  It will rub the face off carbide tool bits if you let it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on November 30, 2014, 04:28:24 PM
Just a small update just to say that I haven't abandoned the project.

Believe it or not it took me two weeks to just do these parts.  They are not on the plans but just some bling.  No prizes for guessing what they are for.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200338.jpg)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 06, 2014, 04:37:43 PM
And those small bits of metal attached to the flywheel using JBWeld.  I am hoping to simulate the look of a split flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200339.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200340.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200341.jpg)

The parts of the flywheel where I had to remove the primer have been re-primed.  During the time were I had to wait for the glue to harden and also the primer to dry, I continued finishing off the cylinder.

First off, the back of the cylinder was done.  The valve covers with the gaskets were bolted down.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200342.jpg)

Next, the bottom of the cylinder was finished.  The exhaust cover with gasket was attached to the cylinder.  This thing is surely not going to fly off.  I had to remake two of the studs as they were too short. :hammerbash:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200343.jpg)

The cylinder feet were next bolted up.  Following Arnold's suggestion to make the feet a two part fabrication, the first part of the feet was attached to the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200344.jpg)

And then the other part was screwed on.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200345.jpg)

Next, a trial fit on the base to see if the exhaust pipe could be screwed in from the bottom of the base.  Thankfully it did.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200346.jpg)

Next to spray the flywheel and finish it off.

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on December 06, 2014, 05:22:11 PM
Nice flywheel Vince it came out great. The whole engine looks a treat bud. You must be getting excited because it looks like your just about to complete this project.  :cheers:

 :popcorn:
Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on December 06, 2014, 06:02:25 PM
Some nice fabrication here, Vince. I like it!  :ThumbsUp:

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 06, 2014, 06:48:44 PM
Hi Vince, good decision to "pimp" the flywheel. So you will see, finally it will give the whole thing a special touch. I like it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on December 06, 2014, 07:32:06 PM
Great going Vince  :ThumbsUp: - I really like the additional touches to the flywheel  :NotWorthy:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 06, 2014, 07:50:57 PM
Very nice work Vince, the flywheel is most convincing (oops - no pun intended there :D)

Looking forward to seeing it in all it's glory any time soon.

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on December 06, 2014, 07:53:57 PM
I do like the flywheel  :praise2:  :praise2:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on December 06, 2014, 08:22:41 PM
Great going Vince  :ThumbsUp: - I really like the additional touches to the flywheel  :NotWorthy:

Kind regards, Arnold

Me 2

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 06, 2014, 11:43:00 PM
Me 3, that adds a lot to the flywheel!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 07, 2014, 12:15:07 AM
Well done, Vince.  Me 2,3,4?

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on December 07, 2014, 11:00:42 AM
Me 5. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 07, 2014, 07:29:45 PM
Thanks guys for the compliments.

To give credit where credit is due, I got the idea about the flywheel from one of Jo's builds.  Can't remember which one.

Today I started with the final spraying of the flywheel and that is going to take a couple of days to complete.

Today I also started thinking of the plumbing, mostly where to put the globe valve.  I am at the moment favouring Achim's method he used on his 16 valve engine, basically putting it below the base. Anything that is going under the Corliss base is not going to be seen and I think it is a shame to use an expensive globe valve that nobody is going to see.  I trawled the Internet maybe to find a cheap method of making a 180 degree globe valve but no luck up till now.

I also need to see what metric cooper pipes I can find locally.  I was going to do some treasure hunting for the piping but my wife informed me that tomorrow is a public holiday. :slap:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on December 07, 2014, 11:03:05 PM
Hi Vince,

Attached is a PDF of a Double beat maneouvering valve I designed to be made from bar stock. Of course its not exactly what you need but I hope you get the principle of a sleeve in a cylinder ported for in and out.

Anyway I hope it helps.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 08, 2014, 05:50:51 AM
Hi Vince, if it will be difficult to find a local source for metric piping, here a link to a German shop. All kind of valves, fittings and pipes.  http://www.modellbau-niggel.de/  (http://www.modellbau-niggel.de/)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 09, 2014, 03:00:19 PM
Achim, I have that website bookmarked.  Infact today I was a bit lazy and instead of running around the island in the hope of finding a short piece of 6mm copper tubing I just ordered it from that site with a couple of other items.

In the meantime I will be attempting to build my own air control valve.  If this does not work out than another item to be ordered from that site.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 10, 2014, 10:58:12 AM
The flywheel is nearly finished paint-wise.  I was looking at full-size split flywheels on the the internet to see how they are fixed together but can't find a really good photo.

So the question is for those of you who have actually seen a full-size flywheel, how are these things bolted together?  Do they use a bolt and nut or do they use a stud and two nuts?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on December 10, 2014, 11:23:06 AM
Nuts and bolts:

(http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/6/67/Im20101013AM-Wigzell1924.jpg)


(http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/6/61/JD_Bristol_Harbour06.jpg)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Coopertje on December 10, 2014, 08:38:40 PM
Hello Vince, have following along quite while with my mouth shut. Your engine is coming along very well  :praise2: it is really a smooth runner and fasinating to see the valve mechanism in work. Would like to build this one too in future. Was looking for the plans in the plans section, could not find them. Do you know where to get the plans for this beauty?

Thanks, regards Jeroen
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 10, 2014, 08:48:11 PM
Hi Jeroen, here the link  http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1285.0  (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1285.0)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Coopertje on December 10, 2014, 08:54:02 PM
Thank you Achim, you are better then google!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 10, 2014, 09:50:01 PM
Thanks Jo for clearing that up.  Bolts and nuts it is.

Thanks Jeroen for having a look.  Hope you enjoyed it.

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 11, 2014, 09:15:51 AM
Well, my attempt to make a simple globe valve did not turn out as expected.  Even with the globe valve in the closed position, a little air was leaking through.  I tested this in a container of water and I could see bubbles coming out from the outlet of the valve.

These are the parts of the valve.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200347.jpg)

And this is the valve assembled.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200348.jpg)

I guess I have to get me a commercial globe valve.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 11, 2014, 09:29:14 AM
OK, so I am going to use bolts and nuts in my simulated split flywheel and that brings another question.

Is there a particular orientation in fitting the bolts and nuts with reference to the rotation of the flywheel?

Yes, it sounds stupid, but I can already hear the little man in my mind telling me that I should have done it differently.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on December 11, 2014, 01:10:38 PM
On the flywheel for "Agnes" there are eight joints around the rim, the nuts are on the trailing side of the joint.
I suppose the logic is that the bolt will stay in the hole if the nut came off.

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 11, 2014, 05:09:29 PM
Hi Phil

Thanks for the reply.

Does that apply also to the bolts and nuts in the hub?
 
Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 13, 2014, 10:30:58 AM
Flywheel finally finished.  Carefully removed the masking tape from the rim and added some 2mm bolts and nuts.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200349.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200350.jpg)

Yesterday, the gentleman from Germany said that my order was dispatched.  I have to order the globe valve and maybe some flanges from him.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 13, 2014, 10:55:03 AM
Hi Vince, it looks better and better. I like it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: pgp001 on December 13, 2014, 05:47:39 PM
Hi Phil

Thanks for the reply.

Does that apply also to the bolts and nuts in the hub?
 
Vince

Different design of hub on Agnes, so not applicable.

This is the real one.

(http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq286/pgp001/Model%20Engineering/Pollit%20and%20Wigzell%20Mill%20Engine%20%20Agnes/At%20Markham%20Grange/Agnes114_zps34f9090c.jpg) (http://s456.photobucket.com/user/pgp001/media/Model%20Engineering/Pollit%20and%20Wigzell%20Mill%20Engine%20%20Agnes/At%20Markham%20Grange/Agnes114_zps34f9090c.jpg.html)

And this is my model of it so far.
I just won the cup for best unfinished model at our club exhibition last week with this flywheel.

(http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq286/pgp001/Model%20Engineering/Pollit%20and%20Wigzell%20Mill%20Engine%20%20Agnes/My%20Model%20of%20Agnes/Agnes%20Flywheel/workshop01121-04-14_zpsea4eba3f.jpg) (http://s456.photobucket.com/user/pgp001/media/Model%20Engineering/Pollit%20and%20Wigzell%20Mill%20Engine%20%20Agnes/My%20Model%20of%20Agnes/Agnes%20Flywheel/workshop01121-04-14_zpsea4eba3f.jpg.html)

Phil
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 14, 2014, 12:25:12 AM
Vince, that looks fantastic. Its amazing what a few small details can do...well done!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on December 14, 2014, 01:08:00 AM
That's beautiful Vince, the added details are really nice!

Phil, if our shows gave out awards for works in progress I just may have a chance.  :lolb: Congratulations on on your well deserved award.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 14, 2014, 04:55:10 PM
Thanks Achim, Phil, Bill and Dave for the interest.

Today I made a little more progress.  Started with the piston.  Up to this morning, I was going to leave the piston as is, without packing.  The model runs so nicely without packing that I was going to leave it like that.  But then, Chris was so kind to bring over some graphite yarn with him.  So I packed it with the yarn (messy operation).

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200351.jpg)

Next I finished off the front part of the cylinder.  Fitted studs and gasket to the front cylinder cover.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200352.jpg)

Time to give the engine some air.  It still runs and I seem to have solved the problem with the slight axial movement of the crankshaft.  I fitted another spacer, this time between the eccentric and the bearing.  So now, like Arnold, I am running it with two spacers to solve the axial movement of the crankshaft.

Unfortunately, another problem seemed to have cropped up.  I am now getting an annoying knocking sound when the engine is turning on air.  If I turn it manually the knock is not there.  So I guess the knock is generated during the power stroke.  I suspect that it has to do with the crankpin.  Made a tighter temporary pin from aluminium to see if it helps.

Seems that the 'knock' has reduced.  So I have to remake a new crankpin.  The diameter of the original pin was 6.43mm and the temporary one is 6.47mm.

The original pin was made as per plans using mild steel.  I am wondering if it would be better to use brass instead.  Any ideas??

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 16, 2014, 11:24:20 AM
The saga continues.

It took three attempts to get the crankpin diameter just right by polishing to the final diameter.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200353.jpg)

The one on the left is the original and the one on the right is the third attempt.  At least the knocking sound has reduced considerably.  I have also reduced the crankpin head diameter and left it plain.  I hope I don't regret later on.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on December 16, 2014, 05:02:49 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

At least you're not as lazy as I was about sorting out the knocking...  Having done the work on the crank pin, you might also want to have a look at the cross-head pin - that's where mine appears to knock the most.  I made both pins from brass, as the rest of the linkages the pins are used on on my build are stainless - simply as that's better for the running surfaces...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 16, 2014, 05:36:07 PM
Thanks Arnold for the heads up about the crosshead pin.  I checked that and there is no knocking from there.  I guess the culprit was the crankpin as all the knocking seems to have gone.

I was now thinking of adding something else to the model.  Old steam engines used to have the flywheel turn with the use of a bar before starting.  Can't find a photo on the internet to see the general arrangement of the equipment so I am thinking of cobbling one up and see how it looks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 16, 2014, 07:54:30 PM
Hi Vince, a quick one.
http://www.barther-dampfmaschinen.de/de/index08/maschine/bild11klein.jpg
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 17, 2014, 12:07:23 PM
Thanks Achim.  Today I managed to find these two.

http://coolspringpowermuseum.org/Exhibits/Jargon/Jargon_files/Bar_Over.JPG

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barring_engine#/image/File:Uniflow_steam_engine,_Bradford_Industrial_Museum_-_geograph.org.uk_-_2195277.jpg

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 17, 2014, 07:15:16 PM
Hi Vince, the first one of the Snow engine is neary finished in my CAD, because it will be a part of my current build.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 21, 2014, 10:38:21 AM
So this week I toyed with the idea of making something which might be used for a barring bar to turn the flywheel with.  I relied on a couple of photos from the internet to make it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200354.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200355.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200356.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200357.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200358.jpg)

I have never seen one of these in the flesh.  Actually, I have never seen a real steam engine.  So I need an honest opinion here.  How does it look?  Is it too big or too small?  Is it something similar to the real thing?  Would it look OK with the Corliss?

Nothing is set in stone here.  It is not even bolted down.  So it can be easily discarded.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 21, 2014, 12:41:04 PM
I would say Vince, based on those I've seen at the Forncett museum,  that you have it spot on. It looks in scale and has the right look about it  :ThumbsUp:

That's a really super looking engine - you and Arnold have done it proud.

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 21, 2014, 01:04:09 PM
I like it Vince. The scale seem about right too. It makes an interesting addition to an already beautiful model.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 21, 2014, 01:29:16 PM
Hi Vince, beautiful, I like these additional details very much.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on December 21, 2014, 03:08:28 PM
I am with them Vince another attractive adding to an already beautiful engine. Beautiful work bud.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on December 21, 2014, 10:36:56 PM
Brilliant Vince  :ThumbsUp:

If you provide some detail, your mods can be added to the drawings, (presumptuous of me?), anyway over to you.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 21, 2014, 11:11:49 PM
Yep. I agree Bob, this one is still pretty high on my build list too and these details add to an already fine design!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 22, 2014, 08:47:54 AM
Thanks gents for the positive comments.

The jury is still out on whether I actually use it or not.  I left it in place to see, when I run the engine, if my eyes get accustomed to it.

Quote
If you provide some detail, your mods can be added to the drawings

Bob, I have attached a PDF to this post with some measurements using my crap-o-cad.  I had to go and actually take measurements because everything was eyeballed.

Still waiting for some tubing to arrive to do the next step and as usual, when idle, I start thinking what else can be added to the model and yesterday my mind turned to the governor (what has the world come to).

Dug up the plans for it but could not understand where some components go (I guess that what happens when one is inexperienced with steam engines).  Bob, do you have a drawing of the assembled governor?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on December 22, 2014, 12:08:12 PM
Thanks Vince will get right onto it.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 26, 2014, 11:39:24 AM
Happy Holidays to all.

Earlier this week, I received the copper tubing from abroad and I also managed to do some shopping before the holidays start.

I will be using a 6mm OD copper tubing and using a commercial pipe bender to do a 180 deg. bend.  I had already tried it out with an 8mm tube and it gave a nice bend.  So I thought a 6mm tube should not be a problem.  How wrong I was.  I could not get a decent bend.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200359.jpg)

I remembered I had the same problem in the Kiwi build when trying to bend a brass tube.  No harm in trying this solution.  I annealed the copper pipe and managed to get a good bend.  I soft soldered the pipe to a brass flange which eventually will be bolted to the inlet cover on top of the cylinder.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200360.jpg)

Cut it to size and did a trial fit.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200361.jpg)

The idea is to bolt another flange to the base and get the air supply from below but I am not certain if this is the way to go.  So instead I started making some studs for the inlet cover whilst I think about how best to proceed with the plumbing.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on December 26, 2014, 03:41:54 PM
A nice bend, Vince. The inlet pipe adds considerably to the "bling" factor.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 26, 2014, 03:50:55 PM
Hi Vince, a nice bend with the annealed copper pipe.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on December 26, 2014, 03:52:57 PM
That's about as perfect as it gets Vince...nicely done!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 26, 2014, 04:05:41 PM
Looking better at every post Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Usually in full size steam would come from under the floor or from overhead piping. As you have done I prefer to go from under the floor and usually create a small 'access area' by using some removable plate. Not exactly scale, I like to think it hints at an under floor piping run.

On this model it hides the screw that holds the inlet airline bayonet in place - this may give you an idea, it's off the Double Diagonal
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jAEsWZKfTI8/UFg_EK48cHI/AAAAAAAAKlY/0QpA6q4FEss/s912/DSCF1269.JPG)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 27, 2014, 05:56:40 AM
Ramon, what material did you use for that pipe lagging?

I have a ball of white packing string that I have been hording for a while.  Not sure if it will look as good as yours but I will be giving it a try to see how it looks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 27, 2014, 09:35:30 AM
Hi Vince - yes that's all it is - the white packing or butchers string. It does come in varying thicknesses depending on the manufacturer so it's not 'all the same' but most will do.

I've found it best to do two layers as most often than not, one layer will not completely disguise the pipe around the bend, the string not able to compress enough around the inner radius, leaving slight gaps on the outer.

I put one single wrap around by a flange then apply a drop of thin super glue (I use Zap CA but any thin version will do) to attach it, then wrap it reasonably tightly for the whole length. Tweaked about until happy with it  the first layer is then fixed with a liberal application of super glue allowing it to go off before wrapping the second layer to close those small open witnesses. (If it's done too soon the second layer gets attached all to rapidly by the previous un-activated super glue. I don't use a 'kicker' to send the glue off as this can create little hard pieces in the string which are difficult to remove and only show up after painting. Seal the second layer with cyano too then paint. I use basic white matt 'Humbrol'

Hope that's of use

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 27, 2014, 11:05:01 AM
Thanks for the explanation.

So, if I understood correctly, one paints the first layer of string with superglue and then let's it dry completely before applying the second layer.  After applying the second layer, paint it also with superglue.  Let it dry and then paint with humbrol paint.

What is the purpose of sealing both layers with superglue?

Can PVA glue be used instead to seal the layers?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 27, 2014, 11:57:03 AM
Yes that's right Vince, that is just how I go about it though the glue is just poured gently on and allowed to wick through the string rather than 'painting' it on. It doesn't have to completely soak the string - just enough to ensure its firmly fixed to the copper pipe .....

If the second layer is applied before the first is cured then there is a tendency for the second layer to pull in between any gaps, pushing the first layer windings apart in places. This makes for a very uneven finished look once painted. By letting this first layer set you have a much firmer base to apply the second layer on. You could use PVA to seal each layer but the same applies - let that first layer dry completely. Super glue does make a good job of it though, once cured the windings stay firmly in place. If you do use PVA to seal then I would still use super glue at the start and finish of the windings to be certain of a good hold.

Like most things it's best to do a test piece first - maybe on that discarded copper bend?

Just in case you are not familiar with it, the cyano I favour, as said, is 'ZAP CA' - it's in a fluorescent pink labelled bottle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pacer-ZAP-ca-Super-Thin-PT08-Cyanoacrylate-Adhesive-1oz-Free-P-P-/121019989929?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item1c2d5a7fa9 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pacer-ZAP-ca-Super-Thin-PT08-Cyanoacrylate-Adhesive-1oz-Free-P-P-/121019989929?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item1c2d5a7fa9)

It has a water like consistency and runs just as freely and will wick under any thing - I did the deck planks of the yacht with it. The make isn't that important but the consistency needs to be similar. The thing I like most about the ZAP though is unlike many other makes it has a very long shelf life.

Hope that helps a bit more

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ozzie46 on December 27, 2014, 01:59:59 PM
  Just a word of caution with the Super glues. I found that you need to use it in a VERY well ventilated area as some people can have serious allergic reactions to the fumes. I would get severe flu like symptoms and severely clogged nasal passages and could hardly breathe when I built RC aircraft with it. The symptoms would last for days after and sleep was almost impossible.
  Of all the CAs I tried, ZAP was the worst. I took to having a fan blow the fumes away from myself and what I was working on and that helped.

 As I said just a word of caution. You may not have any problem with it at all. Maybe I'm just super sensitive to the fumes, I don't know. Your mileage may vary.

 Ron
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 27, 2014, 02:03:35 PM
Thanks Ron for the warning.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 27, 2014, 02:42:16 PM
I would definitely agree with Ron here Vince, it does pay to have good ventilation but as you are only going to be using it for a relatively short time it shouldn't prove too much a problem.

Personally, I don't really like using the stuff per se - I always built my model aircraft with diluted PVA but that said CA is a very useful glue in certain areas and particularly when you want to speed things up. Like many things it's a constant use that usually leads to problems - I have a distinct aversion to cellulose fumes these days and will begin to sneeze and have a constant runny nose within seconds of handling balsa wood. The years of handling both without protection finally catching up.

Doing the deck of the yacht was the most I've used cyano for some time and whilst I wasn't particularly aware of the acridness of the fumes that usually occurs I did begin to feel a bit 'nasally' toward the end.

It's a bit like using WD40 on ali as a lubricant, very small amounts are fine but constant use soon leads to respiratory issues - well it certainly affected me in that manner.

Good luck with the task - hope it goes well

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 28, 2014, 02:03:35 PM
Yesterday I made the other brass flange for the other end of the copper tube.  I used five 2mm mounting holes in this flange as opposed to four 3mm mounting holes as used in the other flange.

Today things did not go as planned and had a couple of frights.  I started to drill and tap the five mounting holes in the base using the DRO bolt hole circle function.  It was the forth hole's turn to be done when everything all of a sudden went wrong.

I had just spotted the forth hole when I unintentionally hit the emergency stop of the X3.  I turned the switch to deactivate it and it came out of it's hole and in the process I must have shorted something because the RCD tripped.  My first thought that passed through my mind was  :cussing: I might have damaged the control board of the X3. After a few moments to compose myself I started fixing the emergency stop switch back in its hole.  The nut at the back must have come undone with the vibrations of the machine.  Switched the mill back on and thankfully it worked.

My next problem was the DRO.  I set it all up again to do the forth hole but the co-ordinates it was giving me where wrong.  I checked the memory of the DRO to see if my settings for the bolt hole were still there and surely enough they were still there.  My heart sank.  I must have damaged the DRO.

After having a smoke and a coffee and going through the manual, I stumbled on the solution.  All I have to do was zero the incremental values which it had kept when it was suddenly shut down.  PHEW!

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on December 28, 2014, 02:11:31 PM
Hi Vince, If you have made this experience once, you will never forget it any more. Welcome in the club. And may be in this case it was not really a disaster.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 28, 2014, 02:23:48 PM
Yes, not really a disaster at the end but I was worried sick that I might have damaged the electronics of the mill and also fryed the DRO.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on December 28, 2014, 04:18:26 PM
Yes, not really a disaster at the end but I was worried sick that I might have damaged the electronics of the mill and also fryed the DRO.

Vince
Yea Vince, I know that sinking feel all to well. Especially when you pay big bucks for them.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 29, 2014, 01:52:01 PM
Ramon, as you suggested I used that piece of scrap copper pipe to do a test with the string.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200362.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200363.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200364.jpg)

This is just one layer and I have packed it real tight.  In fact I cannot see the underlaying copper pipe.  I am not sure if I will do the second layer because it might look too thick.  I will seal this layer and give it a coat of paint and see how it will look.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: smfr on December 29, 2014, 04:50:02 PM
That looks good to me, Vince! I think a second layer would make it look too thick.

Simon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on December 29, 2014, 05:03:43 PM
Nice going Vince  :ThumbsUp:

Glad to hear the machine isn't broken!

I agree a second layer of rope might look a bit thick.  One idea I've had knocking around my head is to use flat cotton shoe laces for lagging - to get a closer look to the old asbestos banding used to lag piping on full scale engines...

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on December 29, 2014, 06:44:00 PM
Hi Vince - that looks fine and if you are happy with one layer, especially as nothing's showing through then 'go for it'  :ThumbsUp:

I have just checked the Double Diagonal and that is two layers but the pipe on the Waller is only one. I would agree that two layers at the 'scale' of your engine might look a bit thick.

Like Arnold I'd like to get an effect to simulate the lagging in full size - sometimes this appears cloth like (asbestos?) and wrapped around and stitched but have never come up with anything suitably scale like.

Hope it all goes as well on the pipe proper for you  :)

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on December 29, 2014, 11:34:54 PM
A few weeks ago I had a crazy idea of using plaster (like when you break a hand) instead of string.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on December 30, 2014, 12:38:59 AM


Like Arnold I'd like to get an effect to simulate the lagging in full size - sometimes this appears cloth like (asbestos?) and wrapped around and stitched but have never come up with anything suitably scale like.

Ramon

Hi Guys,

In the old days of Asbestos lagging, that which often looked like asbestos cloth wrapped and stitched was  most times an asbestos slurry troweled and smoothed over the Asbestos rope lagging which, when dry, was painted the appropriate colour, dependent on the product in the pipe. Asbestos cloth stuffed with Asbestos fibres was in the main used to make "Muffs" for valves and flanges.

In my time in older ships, "seeing" the rope wrapped without the top coat was usually as a result of an at sea repair and was a temporary job until the lagging could be done properly.

Food for thought in our scale world maybe?

Best Regards
Bob

Edit: An alternative was sometimes to use thin galvanised sheet wrapped around the pipe and lagging and pop riveted to secure it. This was more prevalent on hot oil, (preheated fuel), systems rather than steam systems.

(http://www.marineinsight.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/linediagram1-1024x733.png)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 03, 2015, 04:41:23 PM
A little update.

The copper pipe is now finished.  Not as nice as the one in Ramon's photo but it will do for a first time.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200365.jpg)

I noticed after I sealed the string with superglue that very fine bristles from the string stood out.  Fixed that with a light sanding.  Next, I applied two coats of undercoat white paint and in between coats gave another light sanding.

I also made a 90 deg. adaptor which will be screwed from below the base under the copper pipe.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200366.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200367.jpg)

Time for a trial fit and another run.  I have run out of 2mm stainless hardware so I need to get some from abroad.  In the meantime I used 2mm brass hardware to bolt the pipe to the base.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200368.jpg)

The engine still runs well but with all the gaskets fitted it has become very quiet in operation.  I am sort of missing the noise of the air leaks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 03, 2015, 05:32:12 PM
Lovely Job Vince - really looks the part and equally as good if not far better than on my now ageing Diagonal.

I forgot about the 'hairs' - passing a very light 'clean' (not smoky) flame over it will quickly take care of them but it does have to be quick  ;)

Good to hear it's still running as well after re assembly - you should be well pleased with the result  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Thanks for the input Bob - I don't know where I've seen the stitched wrapping but I'm sure I have - could be a figment of imagination I suppose  :old:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: joe d on January 03, 2015, 06:43:46 PM
That's looking the part, Vince.   I've been enjoying following along on this build.

Ramon:  At least in Canadian Armed Forces buildings of a certain age that still have a boiler and hot water radiators , the pipes were lagged with some
sort of pre-formed synthetic insulation covered with a stitched canvas wrap.  Once installed, they were painted with a water-based paint which
somewhat shrunk the canvas and made the job look tidy.  All of this was to replace the decades old asbestos lagging.

Joe
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 03, 2015, 06:45:03 PM
Outstanding job on the lagging Vince and it adds some finishing touches to an already awesome looking engine.  :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on January 03, 2015, 09:13:38 PM
I wouldn't criticise the lagging Vince, It looks top notch. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 04, 2015, 02:09:45 AM
That really turned out well Vince. Adds a nice detail to an incredible engine. Are you planning on doing a final video? I hope so.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 04, 2015, 05:22:22 AM
Hi Vince, that is a very nice looking detail added to your engine.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 04, 2015, 07:56:32 PM
Thanks guys for the positive comments and for following along.

Today I wanted to finalize the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft.  If I am going to use that barring mechanism than the flywheel has to have a fixed position relative to it.

On the crankshaft there is enough space between the eccentric and the flywheel hub to add the pulley for a governor but could not find any plans or dimensions for this pulley.  Bob, do I have missing plans, or was the dimension of the pulley left out on purpose?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 04, 2015, 10:30:46 PM
Hi Vince,

Attached is the drive pulley drawing (PDF).

HTH

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 06, 2015, 07:43:10 PM
Thanks Bob you are my savior.  I think I will do the crankshaft pulley just to take up the free space on the crankshaft.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on January 07, 2015, 09:21:51 PM
Hi Vince,

Just one word "WOW".   :NotWorthy: It's looking nicer every time I see it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 08, 2015, 08:46:06 PM
Gee, thanks Baron.

Yesterday I ordered a globe valve from Germany and the idea is to use it just like Achim did on his 16 valve engine (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=2838.40).

I made a drive pulley that will go on the crankshaft to take up the free space on the crankshaft and will also give me a better idea of where the flywheel will be located on the crankshaft.

I also took a big risk with the model but thankfully everything went as planned.

More details later on.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 09, 2015, 11:13:48 AM
Ever since I used that dummy grease pot on the crankshaft end of the connecting rod, I have been thinking of what to do with the extra glass oiler I ended up with.

I have seen photos of oilers on top of the crosshead guide and have been contemplating putting it there.  Well, earlier this week, I decided to do it.  I was feeling a bit lazy, so I clamped the whole model to the mill table and proceeded to make a shallow blind hole on the crosshead guide using a 4mm slot drill.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200369.jpg)

Thinking about it now in retrospect, it was a bit crazy to do that, but thankfully nothing untoward happened.

In this blind hole, I superglued a very short piece of 4mm BMS which was already threaded and painted.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200370.jpg)

This will look like a small boss into which the oiler will be screwed like this:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200371.jpg)

I also made a governor drive pulley from 316 stainless.  This will sit on the crankshaft between the eccentric and the flywheel.  I haven't tried it on yet but it should be OK.  I used a commercial expanding mandrel, a file and a 12.5mm radius gauge to round off the crown of the pulley.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200372.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200373.jpg)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: wagnmkr on January 09, 2015, 10:35:39 PM
This project just keeps getting better and better. What is the next alteration?

Cheers

Tom
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 10, 2015, 08:31:29 PM
Nice touch Vince - I agree with Tom  :ThumbsUp:

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 11, 2015, 01:25:33 PM
Hi Tom and Ramon from very cold Munich.  Thanks for the comments.

Quote
What is the next alteration?

Ideally it would be to take a decision of by how much I should shorten the base, but it is taking forever to take this decision.  Once I actually do it then I can start working on the base.

I am also thinking of adding some stanchions to the base but can't figure out which height the stanchions should be for this model.  I was thinking of maybe 40mm height, but can't really be sure.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on January 11, 2015, 07:22:29 PM
Looking better with every step  :praise2:  :praise2:  The weather here is crazy at the moment  ::) Last Saturday we went snowshoeing in the woods behind the village. Yesterday we had lunch on the balcony in 17-20°C. Today it is snowing again.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 11, 2015, 10:07:44 PM


I am also thinking of adding some stanchions to the base but can't figure out which height the stanchions should be for this model.  I was thinking of maybe 40mm height, but can't really be sure.

Vince

Hi Vince in my pictorial of the complete engine, the stanchions are: 1/8" dia x 2" tall with a 1/4" ball at the top and halfway down for the rails which were also 1/8" dia.

To me this looks proportionate so I offer it as a starting point.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: bouch on January 13, 2015, 05:21:04 PM
Sorry for the hijack, but I just joined this forum and just seeing this thread.  I went looking around the site for the plans for this engine, and can't find them.  Can someone point me to where the plans are available from?  Thanx!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 13, 2015, 06:32:15 PM
Bouch, you should be able to find them here:  http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1285.msg16981#msg16981.  We would prefer however that new members at least post an introduction in the "Introduce Yourself" section prior to just asking for freebies. MEM is  much more about sharing than it is a repository for free plans. That said...welcome to MEM and I will look forward to your contributions.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 14, 2015, 03:41:34 PM
Hi Bob

Quote
in my pictorial of the complete engine

Is the pictorial the one below?

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 14, 2015, 04:21:45 PM
So as to get a visual idea of how the stanchions will look like height-wise, I put three brass screws on the base close to the engine.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200374.jpg)

They are 3mm screws and about 41mm long.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 14, 2015, 10:16:18 PM
Hi Bob

Quote
in my pictorial of the complete engine

Is the pictorial the one below?

Vince

Sure is.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 15, 2015, 08:55:10 AM
Hi Vince - just caught up with your latest improvement.

Hope I'm not teaching granny here but are you aware that stanchion size can have the effect of 'scaling' the engine? Too short and the engine will represent a large engine and vice versa. Although those screws are only for guidance their height appears to be not much taller than the barring rack for instance which may give the impression of a 'big' engine. Stanchions certainly add an air of authenticity but need to be in keeping with the 'scale' - whatever you decide it to be. Just something to consider perhaps? Whatever you decide though, I'll look forward to this next addition :ThumbsUp:

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 15, 2015, 09:57:12 AM
Hi Ramon I appreciate your input.  I put the barring rack close to those screws for a reason. I suspect that making the stanchions height of 50mm would look better but I am really not sure of it.  Infact the whole project is sort of in a limbo at the moment. 

If it was your project, what height would you use?

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 15, 2015, 02:01:32 PM
Hi Vince, I have just rememberd some pictures from an engine in UK.
https://plus.google.com/photos/+EllenroadOrgUk/albums/5922779699593967569#photos/+EllenroadOrgUk/albums/5922779699593967569/5922779716090076210?pid=5922779716090076210&oid=104787827389321027292 (https://plus.google.com/photos/+EllenroadOrgUk/albums/5922779699593967569#photos/+EllenroadOrgUk/albums/5922779699593967569/5922779716090076210?pid=5922779716090076210&oid=104787827389321027292)
In this case the upper hand rail is in the middle of the crankshaft.
For your engine I would recommend less, so your 40 mm screws seems to be nice or a bit less is even better.
 
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on January 15, 2015, 03:40:11 PM
As another visualization tool, you could import a photograph of your model into Sketchup and then add one of the people models. You can scale the person up or down next to the photo of your model to see what you like best. you might even be able to add a section of stanchion image to see how that looks.

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 15, 2015, 10:19:49 PM
Hi Vince, Achims post actually helps highlight what I was referring to.

The EllenRoad mill is a massive engine so the arbitary height of a stanchion at say 36 - 42 " ( 900 - 1100mm) would look quite small relatively.

The flywheel on the MEM is 186mm (7.3") if I recall right. Assuming that it represents a full size engine with, say, a 12 ft flywheel this would be approx 1/20th scale.  A 3ft stanchion at 1/20 would be 1.8" high and a 42" would be 2.1" high. The Hick Corliss at Forncett has a flywheel of 10 ft diameter - in keeping with that, that would bring it to 1/16th scale so 2.25" and 2.625" respectively.

On a freelance engine the 'scale' is what you decide you want it to be. Obviously full size engines vary immensely but stanchion heights (and steps to a degree) remain the same. I have a friend who has fitted stanchions around a Stuart Victoria - quite tall relative to the model size they instantly convey the engine  to be quite small were it full size.

Hope that helps some more

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 16, 2015, 09:04:20 PM
Thanks guys for all the valuable inputs.

The thing that is causing me a problem in my mind's eye is actually the barring rack.  If it was not there than any stanchion height would look good but with it there it would not look very nice with the stanchions shorter or maybe the same height as the barring rack.

I need to ponder this a bit more.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 16, 2015, 11:33:45 PM
Just a thought Vince.............

The barring mechanism is relative to the size of the engine.

Guardrails are relative to people and are of standard heights as laid out in various countries OHS regs.

e.g in Oz its minimum height 1 metre, (Used to be 3 ft in imperial). What the extra 3" achieves is anyone's guess because there is no grandfather clause.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 24, 2015, 04:38:26 PM
I haven't been in the mood of doing anything on the Corliss, but yesterday I received the globe valve from Germany and today I made two adaptors to hook it up to plastic tubes.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200375.jpg)

Cute little thing.  Pity it is going to be hidden under the base.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 25, 2015, 09:10:57 AM
How slow will it go

Today I thought I would give the globe valve a try before I start drilling the base for it.  Just checking to see if it is fit for purpose.  So I hooked it up with plastic tubes and took a video.  Please do not look at all the clutter on the table.

[youtube1]http://youtu.be/x1a8DszUhJM[/youtube1]

I increased the pressure slightly to get a better range of speeds.  It can really go slow, but I think the slowest speed is not very realistic.

Enjoy

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 25, 2015, 10:29:37 AM
That's really lovely Vince, beautiful movement - you must have all the fits just perfect  :ThumbsUp: Bet you are well pleased  :)

Truly inspirational  ;)

Regards - Ramon

PS That's a very neat valve BTW - could you post the link to the site please.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 25, 2015, 04:41:59 PM
Quote
Bet you are well pleased 

You can say that again Ramon.  Happy I could get it to turn real slow.  The website for the globe valve is:

http://www.modellbau-niggel.de/

I got it off Achim's 16 valve engine thread.  Everything is metric on it and it is in German only so you need to use a translator.  Second time I bought things from there and am quite satisfied.

This evening I had quite a job getting the handle off the globe valve off due to thread locker.  Had to carefully heat it up to remove it.  Good thing I have some micro nozzles so that I can heat exactly where needed.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 25, 2015, 04:49:14 PM
That's very impressive to say the least Vince. Like my Benson it run on air without the pressure showing on the gauge. Awesome bud just awesome.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on January 25, 2015, 04:54:58 PM
That's really cool Vince! :ThumbsUp:
I love watching that valve movement so nice and slow!
It looks great, regardless of how realistic it may be :)

Thanks for sharing the video!
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 25, 2015, 04:55:43 PM
Hi Vince, that is a very smooth runner. I like this very slowly running models. Good to see that the valve is working fine. Your video shows, that you have build a very precise engine.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tjark on January 25, 2015, 06:51:54 PM
Vince, I have been lurking all the build.
You have done it again.
Not only a beauty to look at but also a very fine runner.
Very nice to see how smooth and slow it run’s.

    Tjark.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on January 25, 2015, 07:41:58 PM
You can't get a lot better than that, very nicely done.

J
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 25, 2015, 07:45:29 PM
What an incredible runner Vince. You know when you can get them to run that slow you done GOOD!!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 25, 2015, 08:14:43 PM
Thanks guys for the compliments.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 25, 2015, 10:28:16 PM
Thanks Vince - considering the work that goes into them and the visual quality they seem reasonably priced too.

Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 28, 2015, 11:27:29 AM
The plan for the globe valve is to put it below the base and let the spindle go through the base to the top part of the base.  I thought of removing the gland nut of the globe valve and screw the globe valve from the bottom of the base.

I removed the gland nut and measured the thread.  7mm X 0.5mm!!  That's a bit strange because I could not find a tap like this from the usual vendors.  So thinking that I measured the thread wrongly, I asked the German guy about it.  He confirmed that my measurement was correct.  Checked on eBay and actually found a guy in the UK selling a set for 24 pounds!  Well, I do not think it's worth buying this set just to use it once (seems to be a nonstandard thread).

Back to the drawing board.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Stuart on January 28, 2015, 11:47:39 AM
Vince

Now this may come of a surprise it did for me but do you have access to the rainforest shop


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Right-Thread-0-5mm-Pitch/dp/B00C88E0IA

Or this one below

http://www.engineering-supplies.com/product/1747/m-7-0x0-5-metric-fine-hss-straight-flute-thread-tap-/?gclid=CKKBjK_NtsMCFWf3wgodHhYAsg

Yes I know they are not local to you but when I googled there were plenty of suppliers about

Nice runner you have there

Stuart
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on January 28, 2015, 05:34:23 PM
Vince,
Why not make your own tap? I am a total amateur but I made one for a one time job that worked well enough in brass to get the job done. If I can do it, anyone can.
Or you could make two brackets to solder onto the adapters positioned so the handle can project through a hole. You could even make an extender for the handle stem if necessary.
Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 28, 2015, 07:44:33 PM
Hi Vince, just for Information. http://www.gewindebohrer-shop.de/de/gewindebohrer-metrisch-fein-din-13-hssg/gewindebohrer-m-7-x-05-7x0,5-metrisch-fein-din-13-hssg-p-925.html
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tjark on January 28, 2015, 09:02:28 PM
Vince,

The site Achim suggested has also machine taps, one tap solution.

  Tjark
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 28, 2015, 10:20:04 PM
Thanks guys for the tips and the links.  Just came back from work (Berlin) and a bit tired to investigate those links now but will do so tomorrow.

So it seems this tap is not so rare after all.  What happened is that when I could not find it from the normal overseas vendors and it was not even mentioned in the tap charts that I could access then I thought that this is going to be a costly exercise.

I will see tomorrow if it is worth getting them from one of those links, otherwise, plan B would be to use the same method Achim used on his 16 valve engine.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 01, 2015, 02:59:38 PM
I have ordered the tap from the Amazon link. Cheap and cheerful with free delivery to boot.  We will see what gets delivered.  The others were not that expensive but the delivery costs were astronomical.

I have also tried to machine a stanchion but the result was a flop.  Will try again using a different method.

As an aside, today was my first day of early retirement.  Alas, no more trips to Munich and Amsterdam.  Still having mixed feelings about it depending on the time of day.  In the morning I get the "OMG what have I done" feeling and in the evening I get the "good thing I did it" feeling.  These last couple of weeks was feeling like a pop star.  Many colleagues wanting to take a photo with me.  On my last day even the CEO, the head of HR and my two direct bosses (training and operational) wanted to take a photo. How strange is that!

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 01, 2015, 03:29:59 PM
As an aside, today was my first day of early retirement. 

Lucky man.  :cartwheel:

And may you have lots of happy years of swarf making to look forward to  :drinking-41:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on February 01, 2015, 04:42:56 PM
Hi Vince

Congratulations on your retirement!
Here is to many long hours in the shop making little engines  :cheers:

I still have 5-10 years to go.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Stuart on February 01, 2015, 05:29:02 PM
Vince

Welcome to the world of how the ekk did I find time to go to work :LittleAngel:

Just to upset Jo I retired at 50 that's about 17 years ago

Do I regret it not one little bit

Hope you enjoy it as much as I do

Stuart
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on February 01, 2015, 06:03:35 PM
Just to upset Jo I retired at 50 that's about 17 years ago

:censored: :censored: :censored:

I nearly tried retiring this coming year and then I got my pension quote  :Mad:  :cussing:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on February 01, 2015, 07:10:06 PM
Hi Vince - welcome to the club - you'll love it once you get used to it.  ;D Though I stopped work a bit early once I retired officially and got my pension I had a grin on about it for quite a while. Good luck with however you use it - may it be around for many years to come  :ThumbsUp:

Re the stanchions - I don't know if you tried to do it in a one-r but its much better to do it in stages puling it out of the chuck (collet preferably) for each stage. If the bottom end is turned first it can be supported quite deeply in a hollow centre made from a stub of brass held in the tailstock drill chuck (drilled in situ)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 02, 2015, 01:09:25 AM
Hi Vince and congrats on the retirement. I haven't made up my mind yet to do it and still working and enjoying it.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 02, 2015, 03:35:39 PM
Thanks guys for the well wishes.   :cheers:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 14, 2015, 10:50:21 AM
12 days and today I had the first chance to do something.

Yesterday I received the 7.5mm tap and tried it out on a piece of aluminium having the same thickness as the base.  Drilled a 3.1mm hole right through for the shaft of the globe valve and then opened up the hole with a 6mm drill making sure it did not go right through.  Then opened it up further with a 6.5mm slot drill so that I will have a flat bottomed hole.  Tapped it and tried it.  The globe valve fitted but I needed a couple of more threads down the hole.  So, I ground off a little the tap which gave me the required number of threads.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200376.JPG)

It now fits like a glove and the base will act as the gland nut.  I guess that was a successful experiment and I will use this method to fit the globe valve to the base.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Bearcar1 on February 14, 2015, 07:41:36 PM
Hi Vince, I have been absent for a while but I just watched your last video and that engine of yours is AWESOME!!! BRAVO!!  :Love:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 15, 2015, 08:01:31 PM
Thanks Jim.  Glad you are following.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 19, 2015, 10:34:29 AM
Today I checked if the base acting as a flange nut leaks.  Applied about 80psi air pressure to the globe valve and checked for leaks.  No air leaks evident. :ThumbsUp:

I also made a shaft extender and a thingy sleeve to hide the shaft extender.  Sorry, I do not know the technical term for it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200377.JPG)

Took a couple of photos with the sleeve in place and the Corliss cylinder block to see how it looks scale-wise.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200378.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200379.JPG)

I think it looks OK.  Next to drill some mounting holes in this sleeve and base and give it a lick of paint.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on February 19, 2015, 07:28:59 PM
Hi Vince, another nice detail added.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 19, 2015, 07:37:55 PM
Thanks Achim.

This is all your fault. ;D

If I hadn't seen you do it on your 16 valve engine, the idea would not have crossed my mind.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on February 19, 2015, 07:42:37 PM
Hi Vince, I think that is the reason why we are all part of this forum. I definitely do enjoy it.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on February 19, 2015, 07:53:55 PM
Hi Vince,

Sorry to be a party pooper but IMHO the sleeve is way out of proportion to the hand wheel. i.e. bigger handwheel or no sleeve.

Please its only my opinion but you've done such a great job I hate to see the overall effect lessened.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 19, 2015, 08:14:12 PM
Thanks Bob for your observation.  Now that you have mentioned, I see what you mean.

I would like to keep the sleeve to hide the shaft extender.  I would not like to make the hand wheel larger as it might look too large.  What I will try, is to taper the sleeve.

Food for thought.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 20, 2015, 12:31:52 AM
Hi Vince and congratulations on the retirement...something I have yet to look forward to. I think you idea of tapering the sleeve is good, but if I might throw in another idea..while the OD of the handwheel is ok, it seems too thick...maybe thinning it down some would add to the scale appearance. Easy sitting here being a Monday morning quarterback I know, but with all the delicate linkages on the engine valving, I think the handwheel should be somewhat more delicate too, though not to the point of being unfunctional of course. Just my 2 cents. This engine is just such an inspiration to me and I know many others!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on February 20, 2015, 02:19:59 AM
Hi Vince, just awesome work there bud and I do agree with Bill on the wheel. This engine is such a beauty and I have no doubt you want to do it justice. Keep up the fine work.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 20, 2015, 05:01:33 PM
Again, thanks Achim, Bob, Bill and Don for your valuable inputs.

Today I decided to redo the sleeve.  It was easier to just make it again then to try and fix the original one.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200380.JPG)

The one on the left is the MK II version.  I think it looks better.  What do you think?

Bill, I am very reluctant in reducing the thickness of the hand wheel.  It came with the globe valve and it's so nice that it is a pity to touch it.  If it starts to annoy me then I would prefer to make a new one instead.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on February 20, 2015, 10:22:47 PM
Hi Vince,

Still watching you making progress !  Lovely work.
I do prefer the one on the left.  The tapered column makes it look more in proportion.
 
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on February 20, 2015, 11:12:46 PM
Hi Vince,

Still watching you making progress !  Lovely work.
I do prefer the one on the left.  The tapered column makes it look more in proportion.

Me 2.

Best Regards
Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on February 21, 2015, 12:44:55 AM
Hi Vince,

Still watching you making progress !  Lovely work.
I do prefer the one on the left.  The tapered column makes it look more in proportion.

Me 2.

Best Regards
Bob

Me 3.

This engine is an inspiration.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on February 21, 2015, 12:57:38 AM
The taper definitely helps Vince. Even helps the handwheel a bit :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: arnoldb on February 21, 2015, 02:46:36 PM
Good going Vince  :ThumbsUp: - haven't commented much of late but still folowing along.

Yes, the tapered one  :)

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: wagnmkr on February 21, 2015, 02:47:21 PM
Another vote for the tapered one.

Tom
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on February 21, 2015, 07:12:39 PM
The tapered one. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on February 21, 2015, 09:41:00 PM
Thanks guys for the thumbs up for the tapered sleeve.

It has been two years since I started work on this engine and the amount of help and unbiased opinions I received during this time has been unbelievable.  This is just my second model engine and I still find it difficult when deviating from the plans and all your guidance and encouragement has been a godsend.

As they say :

"This site rocks"

Regards

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 03, 2015, 04:13:57 PM
A little more progress and it is not on the plans.

The cut-out for the flywheel was done exactly to plan.  I knew it was a bit wide but at that time I was not certain where the flywheel would be located on the crankshaft.  Now I know that the flywheel is located closer to the outboard bearing and the flywheel is not central to the cut-out.  So to visually fill in the extra space that is remaining, I decided to make a flywheel well (is that a good terminology?).

So I machined some aluminium flat bar to size.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200381.JPG)

Skimmed the inside faces with a flycutter.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200382.JPG)

Drilled and tapped and bolted it together.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200383.JPG)

Skimmed the top to make it flat.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200384.JPG)

Next I need to make the floor of the well.

I am going to TRY and give the flywheel well a local touch.  Over here, since time immemorial, limestone is used in the building industry.  So I am going to try and simulate the well being made from limestone blocks.  I do not know if it is going to work out but I am going to give it a try.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on March 03, 2015, 11:43:21 PM
I liked that Vince, it should give it that extra touch. The limestone should be easy to do paint white and use black mixed with a wash, should give you the grayish hue. That is unless you want it a different color.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 04, 2015, 08:50:35 AM
Don, I will be aiming to get something similar to this:

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200385.JPG)

The actual colour of the stone varies a little depending from which quarry they got it from.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 05, 2015, 08:19:24 PM
I have made the floor for the flywheel well and at the moment drilling and tapping so that I can bolt it to the other four faces.

I have also finally taken the decision to reduce the size of the aluminium base.  The final dimension of the base is now 200mm X 400mm.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on March 05, 2015, 09:37:25 PM
Hi Vince,

Still watching  :praise2:

You could always get a chunk of stone and make tiles from it.  That stuff is easy to cut and a couple of mm thickness should be no trouble at all.  A jig saw with a fine blade would work to cut thin slabs, then scribe and split off tiles as needed.  Can't get any more authentic than the real stuff.  :cartwheel:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 08, 2015, 01:41:54 PM
Hi Baron

The idea is good and a couple of months ago experimented in cutting thin slices.  I could not get consistent thin slices.  Most often they would break during the cutting process.  So I abandoned that idea.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on March 09, 2015, 04:43:55 PM
Hi Vince,

In that case cut slabs as thin as you are able, cut to finished size.  Say 3" X 8"  or what ever the cavity size is. Secure, in a recess, to a hardwood backing and mill to a consistent thickness.  Remove and turn over, mill to the thickness you want, polish and scribe or just engrave the joints.  I would use some beeswax, probably around the edges to secure the stone. Then a very small amount of heat should allow you to release the slabs without breaking them.

HTH.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 18, 2015, 10:28:48 AM
Well, that did not last very long!!!!

Two weeks after I retired, I got two job offers from the UK.  One was for instructing and checking people and the other one was 'hands on' work.  Believe it or not, I accepted one.  I took the 'hands on' contract as it is a short term contract and I always had a dream of getting some work experience in the UK.

So at the moment I am in the UK initially  (Stansted) doing a lot of induction courses and training and later on moving up to Edinburgh.  Let's see how all this goes!

So this means that I had to literally 'box' the Corliss for now. It's a pity as I was so close to the finish line.  I guess that is life getting in the way.

Wish me luck guys.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on March 18, 2015, 10:35:46 AM
Good luck Vince  ;)

and don't forget this is a good opportunity to pick up all those tools you want and not have to pay excessive shipping costs  :naughty: These boys are just a short drive round the M25: http://www.homeandworkshop.co.uk  :mischief:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on March 18, 2015, 11:08:56 AM
Best of luck Vince, I'm sure you'll enjoy yourself. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 18, 2015, 11:56:20 AM
Thanks Jo and Hugh for the good wishes.

Yes, Jo, I have a list of things I need to get whilst here.  Not the big ones but small items, were the postage would have costed more than the item.

Next week I will be driving to Southampton for three days.  That is going to be fun! Good thing I brought an old GPS with me.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sco on March 18, 2015, 11:57:22 AM
Also an opportunity to check out some full size engines to get inspiration for the next project.

Simon.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on March 18, 2015, 11:58:07 AM
Good luck Vince and enjoy.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on March 18, 2015, 12:02:36 PM
Next week I will be driving to Southampton for three days. 

Well if you want to drop in for a coffee, I am not far off the M3 on your route  :). You can come and have a laugh at my attempt at a Kiwi.

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on March 18, 2015, 07:02:57 PM
Hi Vince, good decision with this job after official retirement. Something I have also in my mind.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on March 18, 2015, 08:18:28 PM
Good Luck Vince,

Hope you brought some good weather with you.  :) :) :)

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on March 18, 2015, 11:34:11 PM
Enjoy your time in the UK Vince. We will miss the updates on the Corliss, but such is life. It will be there waiting for you once the contract is over.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 21, 2015, 10:59:43 AM
Thanks again for the well wishes guys.

Quote
Hi Vince, good decision with this job after official retirement. Something I have also in my mind.

Achim, this was totally unplanned and it even took me by surprise!

Quote
Well if you want to drop in for a coffee,

Jo, thanks for the coffee offer but the little free time I will have when down there will be in the morning and I guess during that time you will be at work saving for some new casting set. ;D

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 30, 2015, 06:40:33 PM
Hi guys. I am still in the UK but now based in Edinburgh.  Beautiful city.

I did a google search but did not turn up anything.  Are there any model engineering outlets here?

Vince.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on May 30, 2015, 07:08:00 PM
Not that I found  :disappointed:

Don't forget to visit the National Museum of Scotland in Chambers Street to see the running Corliss engine :whoohoo:

(http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/9/93/Im20100528Ed-Grant1.jpg)

You will need to check the time it is running ;)

Up the Royal Mile there is a tartan weaving place just outside the entrance to the Castle that is worth having a look at the looms, where they weaved the Tartan in my own (family) Tartan skirt and sash. 

 :Doh: Nearly forgot don't forget the Falkirk wheel

Jo



Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 30, 2015, 09:04:52 PM
Thanks Jo for that info.

In fact today I passed close to those places you mentioned.  For sure i will see that Corliss.

I will have to google the Falkirk wheel to see what that is.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on May 31, 2015, 01:28:15 AM
Hi Vince

I totally missed that the UK gig was a long term thing and not just a short visit. I hope everything works out for you and we will be able to see some more work coming out of your shop in the future.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on May 31, 2015, 06:39:58 PM
Yes, Dave, it's a six month contract.  Already spent two months north of London. Now doing two months in Edinburgh and after that will be doing another two months in Rome.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 01, 2015, 01:59:07 PM
So today, as Jo suggested, I went to the National Museum of Scotland to see the real Corliss.

Unfortunately, that part of the museum was closed for refurbishment.  Just my luck. :Mad:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on June 01, 2015, 02:47:21 PM
Unfortunately, that part of the museum was closed for refurbishment.  Just my luck. :Mad:

 :toilet_claw:

When is it due to be open again  :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BoDp8dSFTg

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on June 01, 2015, 04:41:02 PM
2016 !
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tinglett on June 02, 2015, 12:51:14 PM
Did I catch correctly that the Corliss in the video is running at only 30 PSI?

Bummer it's closed :(.  It wouldn't hurt to ask if they might take you backstage for a non running view anyway.  You never know, you might get a hard hat and a very special tour!

Todd
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on July 01, 2015, 11:37:02 AM
Hi everyone. Still in Edinburgh having the easiest summer in 35 years and the weather is gorgeous up here.

A minor update on the project.  I bought some brass stanchions for the Corliss and two 1 meter lengths of 1.5mm brass wire for the rails (big mistake, should have bought 3 lengths instead of two!!). The stanchions are 55mm total length with three holes in each.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200386.jpg)

These are actually meant for model boat builders.  I am still not sure if I will use these and hoping that I might find 1.5mm TIG brass wire back home.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 27, 2015, 04:47:37 PM
Hi guys, I am back home.  I got lots of offers and sweet talk to remain a little longer, but I decided that six months away from home was enough.

Actually, I have been here for two weeks, but today was the first time I got some spare time to take the Corliss out of storage and try to figure out where I left the build six months ago.

So the MEM Corliss saga will now continue. Stay tuned.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on September 27, 2015, 05:03:36 PM
Looking forward to hearing more about it Vince  8)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on September 27, 2015, 05:21:05 PM
Hi Vince,
I look forward to seeing more of the build.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on September 27, 2015, 05:25:19 PM
Welcome home Vince!!  I am sure the Corliss missed you and will be glad for a little TLC now :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on September 27, 2015, 07:09:02 PM
Hi Vince, I am still there, waiting for the next episode of the saga
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on September 27, 2015, 07:15:38 PM
Welcome back to your Corliss, Vince. I'm not out of  :popcorn: yet.

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on September 28, 2015, 01:54:02 AM
Welcome back Vince and awaiting some more updates on this beauty......... :wine1:


Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on September 28, 2015, 02:14:49 AM
Hi Vince

Great to have you back!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on September 30, 2015, 04:55:16 PM
Thanks guys for the warm welcome back.

The first thing I did as soon as I opened the box, was to check on a part I had made from aluminium and which was painted.  I wanted to see if the paint peeled off.  I had used an aluminium primer and was not sure if it did it's work.  Happy to say that after seven months, the paint is still there.

So, it seems that the last thing I did was to finish the flywheel well.  Time to fix it to the bottom of the base.  I had bought some extra long (60mm) 3mm bolts for this job before I left. Drilled and tapped some holes and it can now be attached to the base.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200387.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200388.jpg)

Could not find the camera I normally used so had to use my smartphone instead.

Next operation is to decorate (paint) the inside of the flywheel well.  I am still not sure if what I intend to do is going to work out. I had six months to think about it and now I have all my fingers crossed.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 11, 2015, 09:07:15 AM
So, I have been painting the flywheel well.  I wanted to give it a local touch by simulating it was built with limestone slabs.  It was a laborious process but I think that the experiment worked out.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200389.jpg)

Flywheel well assembled.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200390.jpg)

And I could not resist trying it out with the flywheel.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200391.jpg)

Most of the well is hidden by the flywheel but the parts that show display the limestone effect.

Now I have been thinking (very bad sign).  My original idea for painting the base was to paint it with black and white squares simulating tiles.  Now I am thinking of giving it the same limestone effect.  I can well imagine in those old times they would have use limestone slabs as flooring.  Some of the old houses still have them.

What do you think guys.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on October 11, 2015, 12:50:41 PM
That's a very good paint job Vince. One that would certainly focus the mind...Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: joe d on October 11, 2015, 12:51:58 PM
Vince:

Glad to see you back at this one, I've been missing your updates!

I vote for the limestone flooring, it would look great :ThumbsUp:

Cheers, Joe
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: gbritnell on October 11, 2015, 01:08:36 PM
I would also go with the limestone flooring. First it would match what you already have in the well and second I think it gives a wonderful contrast to the green on the engine.
Great work!
gbritnell
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 11, 2015, 02:27:40 PM
Vince I vote for the limestone floor as well buddy. Great job on the well.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on October 11, 2015, 04:36:50 PM
Hi Vince

Another vote for the limestone floor; the tile work in the well looks great!
I would be interested hearing how you went about creating the tiles in the well?

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 11, 2015, 08:32:21 PM
Thanks guys for your valuable input.  It is much appreciated.  It seems that the general consensus is to do the limestone effect for the floor also.

Dave to answer your question it was done with spray paint and masking tape. I think the following is the way I did it.


This was the sequence that I used to get that effect.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on October 11, 2015, 10:29:28 PM
Thanks Vince

It sure looks nice!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 12, 2015, 12:37:00 AM
It looks spectacular Vince, and now that you have the process down, I would also vote for applying the same thing to the entire base. Most impressive and as already noted, it contrasts with the green paint extremely well!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 12, 2015, 10:55:59 AM
Thanks Bill for looking.  Today I did some more experimentation on a different part of the model:- the stanchions and railings.

I have already acquired some ready-made brass stanchions and brass railing rod but until a couple of days ago, I had given up hope of ever making them, mainly because I did not have enough railing rod and also I wasn't sure how I should go about it.  Luckily, I came across a cheap source of brass railing material in the form of 1.5mm brass brazing rods in 1 meter lengths. I bought 3 rods and they only cost me 0.89 Euro.  Cheap enough to experiment with.

So first I made a jig as I need two bends in the railings. It is made from aluminium bar and two 6mm hardened dowels.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200392.jpg)

Next I experimented with how feasible it is to bend the rod around the dowel pin.  I tried it with the rod annealed but was not happy with the outcome. I got better results with the untreated rod.

Did the first bend and the photo below showing preparation before the second bend.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200393.jpg)

And here it is finished. Nothing is actually bonded at this stage.  I just want to see how it looks.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200394.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200395.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200396.jpg)

The stanchions are 2.5mm in diameter and the railings are 1.5mm.  The stanchion is 55mm long, but when inserted in the base it will only be 50mm long.  Have not decided if I will continue and drill the base for the stanchions.  I will see if my eyes will get used to them.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on October 12, 2015, 08:24:09 PM
Hi Vince, it's taking shape. I like all your efforts to give this engine some more exceptionel details.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on October 12, 2015, 08:31:52 PM
Vince, I think the railing looks great. I also love the limestone and the brass will add a warmth to the greyish white of the stone . Limestone is a bear when it comes to staining though, be sure and seal it well  :cheers:.

Cletus
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on October 13, 2015, 05:49:33 PM
Vince, you might play with a corner stanchion version to see how that would look. Could be tricky miters though.
 :headscratch:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on October 14, 2015, 01:29:58 AM
Looks FANTASTIC Vince,  :NotWorthy:

I'm Gobsmacked  :ThumbsUp:

Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 14, 2015, 01:48:53 AM
Love it Vince go with it..........  :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on October 14, 2015, 10:40:16 AM
Looks great to me  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 15, 2015, 08:57:42 AM
Thanks guys for the support.

I always come out with grand ideas, but when these ideas are not part of the plans, I always start having doubts.  Well, after looking at the stanchions and railings for a couple of days, I decided to bite the bullet and today started drilling the holes in the base for the stanchions. Hope I don't regret it tomorrow.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 16, 2015, 04:05:24 PM
Happy to say that I did not regret it.  Managed to finish the railings.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200397.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200398.jpg)

I did not use soft solder to fix the railings to the stanchions. I was afraid that the solder would flow everywhere except where it wanted it and making a mess.  Instead, I used super glue. Using a toothpick and a loupe I could put a small amount of glue exactly where I wanted it.

So now all the parts of the model are now finished.  I still need to find someone who will do the wooden base for me before I start painting the model's floor and assemble it. Hope I can find a kind person who will do the woodwork for me.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on October 16, 2015, 04:32:30 PM
The railings look great Vince! You should feel quite pleased with it!  :ThumbsUp:
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on October 16, 2015, 08:05:46 PM
Vince, the railings are spectacular  :cheers:. If there are any custom cabinet makers around you, I am willing to bet,  upon seeing your work,  they would be happy to knock you up a very suitable base . Just a beautiful build.

Cletus
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 16, 2015, 08:21:44 PM
Thanks Kim and Cletus for the compliments. I was not sure that they would turn out to be OK.

Quote
If there are any custom cabinet makers around you, I am willing to bet,  upon seeing your work,  they would be happy to knock you up a very suitable base .

Yes, that's what I am trying to do.  I suspect that the wooden base is going to hold me up.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on October 16, 2015, 08:34:19 PM
Vince, maybe if you offered to pay the postage J might make one for you  :mischief: 

:slap:

All I will say is that he is very handy with wood  8)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 17, 2015, 12:06:21 AM
Looks fantastic Vince, love the railings too and they look quite to scale.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on October 17, 2015, 12:12:46 AM
Nice work on the railings Vince!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on October 17, 2015, 02:47:16 PM
That really deserves some fine woodwork to come up to your work, Vince. What a great piece!


Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on October 17, 2015, 11:21:08 PM
Your really setting it off Vince, nice details.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on October 18, 2015, 10:23:18 AM
Quite superb railings, Vince. Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 20, 2015, 09:46:34 PM
My search for somebody here to make the wooden base for me is not proving to be very fruitful.  I have to start reconsidering my options.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on October 24, 2015, 04:17:32 PM
After having resigned myself to not getting a wooden base for the Corliss, I found a kind Samaritan who is going to make it for me.  He might charge me only for the cost of the materials which means that he will do it if he is not busy. Beggars are not choosers. I do not know when I can continue on the model as I have to wait for the wooden base to be finished.

In the meantime, to keep myself busy, I am researching my possible next project.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on October 25, 2015, 01:05:40 AM
Well that is still a plan Vince, just may have to wait a bit on the good Samaritan. Keep us posted on what you come up with as a next project.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on November 11, 2015, 02:24:37 PM
Well Bill, the next project is finalized. A piece of tooling.

It was initially going to be a power hacksaw but then changed my mind and now it is going to be the Worden grinder.  Ordered it today. It should keep me busy until the wooden base shows up.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 05, 2016, 08:13:47 PM
Father Christmas has finally arrived.  I received an email that the base is finished and he sent three photos.  I will go and pick it up next Thursday.  Can't wait to see it in the flesh.

Vince

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_Corliss200399.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_Corliss200400.jpg)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_Corliss200401.jpg)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 08, 2016, 04:49:53 PM
Finally got my grubby hands on the base.  I was well worth the wait and did not charge me a penny!  He reasoned that as the base will be holding a steam engine than might as well give the base an antique look.  I am quite happy with it.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200402.JPG)

I still need to modify it a bit.  The top of the aluminium base of the engine is about a couple of mm below the lip of the wooden base.  I was thinking of making the aluminium base flush with the top of the wooden base.  I also need to devise an air inlet that goes in the wooden base.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 08, 2016, 05:02:21 PM
Nice looking base Vince still waiting for the finishing touch to this engine.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 08, 2016, 05:41:39 PM
He did a nice job on it Vince. Like Don, am looking forward to seeing the finished masterpiece :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 08, 2016, 08:59:12 PM
That's going to look swell when it all comes together.
I've missed most of this thread and did some scanning. Awesome.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 09, 2016, 04:59:11 PM
Thanks Don, Bill and Carl for having a look.

The Corliss saga now continues after the forced break.  First job done.  As it is the engine base is only resting in the wooden base, held up by the flywheel well.  This is not a very stable setup.  So to make it more stable and also to prop up a bit more the aluminium base I made these thingies.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200403.JPG)

These were screwed into the sides of the wooden base.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200404.JPG)

And now the engine base sits better in the wooden base.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200405.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on January 09, 2016, 05:13:39 PM
So, those supports allowed you to get the base flush too, I suspect.  :ThumbsUp:

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 09, 2016, 05:16:17 PM
Yes Alan. They did.  Supports, that's the proper word.  I just could not remember it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 09, 2016, 06:28:28 PM
That looks a lot more stable Vince. Looks like you built in some adjustment in the supports too with the elongated screw slots or is it a photo illusion?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 09, 2016, 06:52:13 PM
Bill, it is not a photo illusion.  They are elongated slots for adjustment.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 10, 2016, 09:25:30 AM
To make it more stable and to make sure it doesn't move around, I have made the facility of bolting the flywheel well to the bottom of the wooden base.  This will pull down the aluminium base onto those four supports I did yesterday.

Now I need to devise an air inlet that goes through the side of the wooden base.  As small as possible not to be an eyesore.  Let's see what I can think of.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 13, 2016, 02:33:31 PM
Made the air inlet attachment from brass.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200406.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200407.JPG)

Yes, it is a bit over-engineered, but the nipple on the outside can be removed if required.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200408.JPG)

Which means more chances of it getting lost!

Work on the wooden base is finished.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jim Nic on January 13, 2016, 03:08:28 PM
I've been watching your build with interest Vince and picking up lots of tips.  Good to see you have got it completed, looking forward to a picture of the engine on its base.
I like the air connection, very neat  :ThumbsUp:
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: 10KPete on January 13, 2016, 04:04:15 PM
I like that removable inlet nipple. It won't be sticking out waiting to be mashed when moving the base around!!

Pete
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 13, 2016, 04:37:35 PM
Thanks Jim and Pete for having a look.  I picked up a lot of tips from other people on the forum.

Jim, nearly finished, but not yet.  I still need to paint the engine aluminium base like the flywheel well.  It is going to take some time to finish and hopefully I won't mess it up.  Keeping all my fingers crossed.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tjark on January 13, 2016, 05:44:35 PM
Vince you have a very nice base for the Corliss engine.
Hoping to see it complete in short time.


      Tjark.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 13, 2016, 11:05:08 PM
Looks great Vince, I usually keep the fitting attached to the bottom with a wire tie. This is if someone would want me to run it for them to see.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 13, 2016, 11:30:50 PM
Nice idea Vince.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 14, 2016, 12:26:28 AM
I had meant to ask Vince...what is the wood used in the base?

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 14, 2016, 10:25:23 AM
Thanks guys for persevering with me.

Bill, as I did not do the wooden base I had to ask the guy what he used.  He said that the wood is red deal and he used three coats of Danish oil and two coats of raw linseed oil to protect and create the patina.

Hope this helps.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 14, 2016, 10:35:54 AM
So today I started the process I hate most - painting.

Cleaned the base and lightly sanded it.  Masked off some parts I decided not to paint and plugged the various holes with match sticks and paper.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200409.JPG)

I then gave it the aluminium primer coat.  Same one I used for the flywheel well.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200410.JPG)

It is supposed to be thoroughly dry after 40 minutes but I am going to give it 24 hours.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 14, 2016, 11:22:51 AM
Timely post. I hope to do some painting of the engine I'm working on.
Any/all details appreciated!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 14, 2016, 01:25:47 PM
Painting is mot my favorite activity either Vince, but just think of how fantastic it will look once you get it done and proudly show it off and that makes it much less hateful :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Sackett on January 16, 2016, 12:45:08 AM
I just found this. Read from the beginning. What a great build!!!!!1Corliss engines were probably the zenith of steam, n Vince's build has done them justice.
As an aside, I sure hope that these plans appear somewhere in imperial, as I detest anything metric. Nothing wrong with metric,, just that I'm old,n grumpy, n dont wanna have to do all the conversions
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 16, 2016, 12:51:26 AM
Sackett...look here, this is where the plans are in .pdf format.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1285.0.html

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 16, 2016, 05:55:17 AM
Sackett

Thanks for the compliment.  Hope you have found the plans.  I worked from the imperial plans and changed/adjusted everything to metric.

If you are interested there is Arnold's Corliss build also from the same plans.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1333.0.html

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 17, 2016, 09:49:37 AM
As Carl was interested in how I go about doing this I am going to add some more steps that I have done up till now.

After the primer dried, I applied a base coat which is cream coloured.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200411.JPG)

Left it to dry for 48 hours and then removed all the match sticks and tape covering the holes.  I left the masking tape for the feet of the engine and also the air inlet.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200412.JPG)

Masked all the base again.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200413.JPG)

Patiently drew all the lines with a pencil.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200414.JPG)

Next step is to cut out thin lines over the pencil lines.  I think this going to be the most critical part.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 17, 2016, 12:31:30 PM
Thanks Vince! Much appreciated.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 18, 2016, 11:04:54 AM
Started the cutting process.  The width of the lines was eyeballed.  It took a while to finish as I took a lot of coffee breaks.  At least I did not do any boo-boos like cutting in the wrong place.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200415.JPG)

A close-up of the completed cut lines.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200416.JPG)

Sprayed it all in a white colour.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200417.JPG)

Now to give it some time to dry.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 18, 2016, 11:18:24 AM
That looks pretty tedious...and good!

What kind of tape did you use?
Cut with x-acto?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on January 18, 2016, 11:21:34 AM
I don't know about tedious, but certainly the type of job where you don't want any distractions. I'm sure the unveiling will be a stunning event! Cheers, Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 18, 2016, 11:53:40 AM
Hi Carl and Hugh.

Over here we just call that tape as "masking tape" and it is paper based.  I guess the knife is a sort of cheap x-acto knife which is shown in the first photo.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 18, 2016, 04:28:23 PM
Great description and pictorial Vince. I'm with Hugh...can't wait for the unveiling!!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 18, 2016, 09:55:46 PM
Looking good Vince and I'm waiting for the unveiling also.

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 18, 2016, 10:23:27 PM
Over here we just call that tape as "masking tape" and it is paper based.  I guess the knife is a sort of cheap x-acto knife which is shown in the first photo.

Thanks. I'd thought as much.

I can't quite tell from the photos...is the tape overlapping or butted?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 05:24:39 AM
Me too guys.  Can't wait for the unveiling.

Carl, the tape is overlapping and in post 937 you can also see in the first photo, the tape that I used.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 09:17:27 AM
Started the delicate process of removing the tape.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200418.JPG)

The end is now in sight.  Hopefully I can get it to run as good after final assembly.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 19, 2016, 11:20:48 AM
Carl, the tape is overlapping and in post 937 you can also see in the first photo, the tape that I used.

Ah, I'd forgotten. I see it's fairly wide tape and looks somewhat different from what I'm used to as masking tape.
Now I know what to look for.

The base is coming out beautifully. It's going to look great when put all together.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 05:54:05 PM
Managed to remove all the tape without incident.  It turned out OK.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200419.JPG)

And a close-up showing the flywheel well bolted up.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200420.JPG)

Also finished up the plumbing in the base and hopefully I do not need to open it up again.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200421.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Roger B on January 19, 2016, 05:55:58 PM
That base looks splendid  :praise2:  :praise2: I am looking forward to the final assembly  :wine1:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 06:00:27 PM
Thanks Roger.  Nearly there.  I can see the light at the end of the tunnel (and it's not an incoming train).  Final assembly to go and I am keeping my fingers crossed that it won't give me trouble to run again.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on January 19, 2016, 06:15:35 PM
Still watching Vince. This is going to be spectacular!

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 06:17:13 PM
Thanks Tim.  It's been a long slog to get to this point.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on January 19, 2016, 07:04:13 PM
Vince,  I've been quietly  :popcorn: :DrinkPint: and following along.  You seem to be quite the tile setter.  Lou (my wife ) could keep you very busy here in full scale  :Jester:. Seriously,  the wood finish is spectacular,  as is the whole build.  Can't wait for the "Showcase Thread " :cheers:

Cletus
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 07:13:02 PM
Thanks Cletus. Appreciate it.  In a short while the guys here will take a sigh of relief when this (extra long) build log is finished. :ROFL:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 19, 2016, 08:14:41 PM
Yes Vince, splendid. Waiting for the final set up.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 09:53:17 PM
Vielen Dank Achim.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 19, 2016, 10:13:50 PM
It turned out OK.

OK? It turned out OK?  :ShakeHead:
That looks excellent.

I'm betting there's going to be a little extra heart beating when you assemble and worry about scratches etc.  ;D
Good for the heart but probably no need.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2016, 10:37:45 PM
To avoid scratches, I left the main engine assembled as one piece.  So tomorrow (at least that's the plan), I will put the whole engine on the unpainted pads and just bolt it to the base.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 20, 2016, 12:06:05 AM
That looks every bit as good as I knew it would Vince. Fantastic job!!  Will look even more fantastic with the engine mounted!! Won't be long now.

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 20, 2016, 12:09:25 AM
I agree with everyone Vince excellent paint job.......and you know .......I............like........./ :Love:

 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on January 20, 2016, 01:21:26 AM
Beautiful Vince!

The light tiles and dark wood really complement each other; with the painted engine and polished bright work it is going to be spectacular!

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: 10KPete on January 20, 2016, 03:06:56 AM
That looks wonderful! As the man said: "The devil is in the details."

Pete
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 20, 2016, 05:42:43 AM
Thanks Bill, Don, Dave and Pete.  I am finding that as I get close to the finish line, there is an urge to rush.  So I am pacing myself not to get into trouble.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 20, 2016, 11:14:26 AM
This morning started assembling the engine on the base.  It's a good thing that when I last removed the engine from the base I kept it all together.  So, all I had to do was put it on the unpainted parts of the base and bolt it with the studs I had made.  I also fitted the outrigger column (is it correct terminology?) and also the air inlet pipe.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200422.JPG)

Put the crankshaft through the bearings and shimmed the outrigger until the crankshaft could turn as smoothly as possible.  I knew I had to shim the outrigger but still took a while to get it to that sweet spot.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 20, 2016, 11:21:04 AM
Beautiful Vince.....simply beautiful!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 20, 2016, 11:31:49 AM
Looks spectacular!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: wagnmkr on January 20, 2016, 11:48:30 AM
That is very well done.  :cheers:

Tom
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 20, 2016, 11:52:02 AM
Thanks guys but I would wait a bit.  Let's first see if it turns.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 20, 2016, 01:57:11 PM
Oh yea, that color contrast sets it off nicely........ :ThumbsUp:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on January 20, 2016, 03:29:25 PM
Wow Vince, that has come out really well.  You've put a lot of work into this engine!  Talk about patience!
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 20, 2016, 05:07:19 PM
Thanks Don and Kim.

What can I say?

IT LIVES!!

But not for about a couple of seconds where I thought that I have serious problems and I need to retime it.

So, this afternoon I fitted the rest of the main engine.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200423.JPG)

When I had dis-assembled it last year before going to the UK, I had made a diagram of how the eccentric should be fitted.  After a furious search I managed to find this diagram.  Fitted everything and applied air.  It turned maybe a quarter turn and then stopped abruptly and the piston seemed to be hunting in that position.  If I had any hair, I would have started pulling it!  After some frantic seconds I found out that the eccentric was not fitted in the right position.  I did not even follow correctly my own diagram!

It runs nice and slow and it is very quiet.  Maybe too quiet.  I sort of prefer when I ran it the first time without gaskets with the noise of hissing (leaking) air.

I was going to fit the other extra items to the base but found out that I had not made any studs for them.  I guess the reason was that I had run out of 2mm hardware.  Luckily I brought some with me last year from the UK and now I have to make eight 2mm studs.

Vince

Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on January 20, 2016, 05:51:04 PM
 8)

Less of this teasing us by telling us how nice it runs... We are waiting for the video  :popcorn:

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on January 20, 2016, 06:22:36 PM
Looks fantastic, well done Vince, and everyone who designed it. Bet Not many forums can say they have their own engine! It's awesome!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 20, 2016, 06:24:23 PM
We want VIDEO....we want VIDEO...we want VIDEO  :Director:

Seriously nice Vince!! We will wait of course...just hope it isn't too long :)

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 20, 2016, 06:54:59 PM
Vince she sure is prettyyyyyyyy......patiencally waiting for the video........ :pinkelephant:

Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 20, 2016, 07:36:29 PM
Hi Vince, base tiling and engine color are very harmonic. It's looking very nice.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 20, 2016, 08:56:02 PM
I did not even follow correctly my own diagram!

I'm not the only one!!  :pinkelephant:

That is one fine looking setup. Like everyone has said...VIDEO!

No pressure.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: crueby on January 20, 2016, 09:35:21 PM
What a beaut! Can't wait to see it go!
 :AllHailTheKing:
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 21, 2016, 05:39:27 AM
Thanks guys. Video in due course.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on January 21, 2016, 11:48:43 AM
Hi Vince,

It looks really nice, it will look even better when you get the rails on there.

As others have said "Video please".

Well done !
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 21, 2016, 05:06:26 PM
Thanks Baron.

The rails have been fitted today along with the miniature glass oilers and the other two items.  So it's finished. Yippee!

Last two teaser photos.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200424.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200425.JPG)

I have cleared the table and tomorrow will take a short video and some final glamour shots.  Stay tuned.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tjark on January 21, 2016, 06:15:21 PM
Hello Vince, it’s a beauty.
As already mentioned the color contrast looks fantastic.
Will wait for the video.


  Tjark.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on January 21, 2016, 07:39:27 PM
Dang me but it's a fine machine!

I'd love to see one run on steam some day. Isn't the Corliss design meant to take advantage of steam expansion?

(Needs a little worker to jack the flywheel around  :LittleDevil:)

Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 22, 2016, 11:37:36 AM
So this morning I had everything ready to take the video and some photos.

Opened the globe valve to turn the engine and nothing happened.  Did some troubleshooting and eventually found the fault.  The shaft extender for the globe valve was found to be loose and as such the globe valve was not opening.  Fixed it and put everything together.

DISASTER.

I found I had scratched one of the tiles!  Decided to attempt a repair job by re-spraying that particular tile only.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/CORLISS200426.JPG)

Left it for 60 minutes until it got touch dry.  Not perfect but better than before.

Took the video and some photos.  The video is still uploading on you tube as I type.

Patience.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 22, 2016, 12:17:30 PM
Whilst the video is still uploading, I am posting the final glamour shots of the MEM CORLISS.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200427.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200428.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200429.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200430.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200431.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200432.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200433.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200434.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200435.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200436.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200437.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200438.JPG)

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200439.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 22, 2016, 01:13:58 PM
That is just perfect Vince. Sorry about the few delays but you got the sorted out and very muck looking forward to the video. Don't for get to add the glamor shots and vid to the Showcase as well!!

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sco on January 22, 2016, 01:32:21 PM
Stunning Vince, just stunning - you should be well pleased with how it turned out.

Simon.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: joe d on January 22, 2016, 01:46:00 PM
Outstanding Vince!  I have really enjoyed following along, thanks for the ride :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Joe
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 22, 2016, 02:34:54 PM
Thank you for your patience guys. The upload got stuck at 92% and had to redo it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKaE4lIbNhk

Hope the link works.  I would like to thank all the guys who made the plans available especially Bob (Maryak) and Arnold who answered all my questions when I had difficulties.  Also thank you guys for following along for the support, comments and ideas that you gave me.

It took me nearly three years to do but it was worth it.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: b.lindsey on January 22, 2016, 02:53:57 PM
What a beautiful runner Vince, and some amazing low RPM smoothness too!  Worth the wait for sure. Gosh it doesn't seem like it has been 3 years. Everything just came together so well, the base, the tile work, and of course the engine itself!!!  Well done...one to be proud of and show off every time you can.  :praise2: :praise2:

Bill
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 22, 2016, 03:02:36 PM
Thanks Bill.  Appreciate it a lot.  This was my first air powered engine so I am not sure how they should sound.  I still think it is too quiet,  If you noticed my breathing was louder than the engine.  I am going to experiment by giving it a higher pressure and see if it makes any difference.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jo on January 22, 2016, 03:06:26 PM
 :AllHailTheKing:

Well done Vince I was watching the vid engine not yet turning...turned round to find my pencil and when I looked again it was turning over without a sound, so cool  8)

Jo
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: cwelkie on January 22, 2016, 03:11:34 PM
Beautifully executed model Vince!
It runs perfectly and shows very well.
Thanks for taking the rest of us along on the journey.
Charlie
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tangler on January 22, 2016, 03:36:22 PM
Very,very nice.  That really is something to aspire to.

 :ThumbsUp:

Rod
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Hugh Currin on January 22, 2016, 04:02:07 PM
Vince:

Very nice!

Hugh
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Don1966 on January 22, 2016, 04:12:09 PM
Just pure poetry in motion Vince. She runs smoothly and quietly and slow, awesome buddy just awesome. Like Bill said worth the wait and ......I.........like............ :Love:

 :drinking-41: Don
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: 10KPete on January 22, 2016, 04:13:38 PM
Super! That engine is truly beautiful, Vince. And it runs so smoothly and quietly. Wow, a MEM engine! I like everything
about it; the workmanship, the details, the colors.....

Congratulations on a fine job.

Pete
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: crueby on January 22, 2016, 04:24:21 PM
Simply stunning!!  :pinkelephant:

Question on the mechanism (I don't know much about corliss valves) - there is the vertical lever on the rod from the eccentric, which increases the throw. On those engines was that connection adjustable to vary the throw or lead on the valves?

I love the base and detail, with a scale brick wall behind it you'd never know it is a model!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Dave Otto on January 22, 2016, 04:56:10 PM
Wonderful Vince, you have created a truly beautiful model with lots of very nice detail!

She runs a nice as she looks.

Dave
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: BaronJ on January 22, 2016, 05:34:55 PM
That looks fantastic  :)
I knew those railings would set it off beautifully. It runs nice too.


 
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Johnmcc69 on January 22, 2016, 05:52:48 PM
Beautiful! Very nice work! It runs so SMOOOOOOOTH!!!

 John
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: kvom on January 22, 2016, 05:59:44 PM
That build ruined it for me, since my attempt to build one would fall so short.  Great build and a beautiful runner.  I got some great ideas from your techniques.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Alan Haisley on January 22, 2016, 06:35:09 PM
Thanks Bill.  Appreciate it a lot.  This was my first air powered engine so I am not sure how they should sound.  I still think it is too quiet,  If you noticed my breathing was louder than the engine.  I am going to experiment by giving it a higher pressure and see if it makes any difference.

Vince
Maybe you have to run it for 50 years like the real ones if you want some noise.  :ThumbsUp:  I love it the way it is.


Alan
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: NickG on January 22, 2016, 06:44:35 PM
Wow, what an engine, it is poetry in motion!
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: ths on January 22, 2016, 07:50:48 PM
Great result, Vince, superb. Cheers, Hugh.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jim Nic on January 22, 2016, 07:59:50 PM
Congratulations Vince, that's a real work of art and no mistake.  Well done.
Jim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Ramon Wilson on January 22, 2016, 08:25:48 PM
Absolutely stunning result Vince, a real credit to your patience and determination to do a fine job.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Beautifully presented and a beautiful runner too - for me the quietness makes it far more mysterious - that's a credit to some real good fits. Well done indeed

Congratulations on such a fine model  :)

Regards - Ramon
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Jasonb on January 22, 2016, 08:38:03 PM
Well I thought it look real good in the photos and then I saw the video, superb job and such a smooth slow runner :)
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 22, 2016, 09:28:06 PM
Many thanks guys for all the nice compliments.  Very much appreciated as I always look up to you and try to emulate.

Quote
On those engines was that connection adjustable to vary the throw or lead on the valves?

Chris, I am not an expert so really do not know the answer.

Quote
I love the base and detail, with a scale brick wall behind it you'd never know it is a model!

Now you tell me.  I am under strict orders from my wife not to touch it anymore.  There is a place reserved for it at home.

Quote
I got some great ideas from your techniques.

Me too, and from many of you. For this many thanks.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 22, 2016, 10:01:48 PM
Well there's a masterpiece.
Congratulations Vince. That is a real beauty.  :ThumbsUp:
I'm betting you're jiggly all over. And you should be.
Really fantastic.

Fun ride.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 22, 2016, 10:16:31 PM
Wait a second...  :thinking:


Aren't we due a 'happy dance'?
I'm thinking we're due a 'happy dance'.
Yes. Yes...a 'happy dance' is due.

Do a 'happy dance' Vince.

(Okay...I at least will let you off the hook. You needn't show us. But do it anyway...if you haven't yet).
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: crueby on January 22, 2016, 10:35:50 PM

Quote
On those engines was that connection adjustable to vary the throw or lead on the valves?

Chris, I am not an expert so really do not know the answer.
Vince

Found the answer on another site about corliss valves - that vertical bar keeps the motion to the valve plate horizontal, getting rid of the rotation that the eccentric would induce. Clever.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Kim on January 23, 2016, 04:14:32 AM
Wow... just beautiful Vince!
Kim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: sbwhart on January 23, 2016, 08:42:25 AM
Just superb

Stew
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Steamer5 on January 23, 2016, 09:18:39 AM
Hi Vince
 Can't add anymore than what's been said....very very nice!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 23, 2016, 03:13:07 PM
Thanks again guys.

Quote
Aren't we due a 'happy dance'?

Happy yes. Dance no. :Jester:

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Tjark on January 23, 2016, 06:59:35 PM
Vince, again a very nice engine with a superb finish.
Thanks for the building log very detailed and educational.

   Tjark.
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: tvoght on January 23, 2016, 09:34:37 PM
It's already all been said, but I must weigh in. In particular, I'm in awe of the smooth slow speed operation.

--Tim
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Maryak on January 23, 2016, 11:51:03 PM
Words fail me......... :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :whoohoo: :pinkelephant: :cartwheel:

A Gobsmacked Bob
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 24, 2016, 06:08:57 AM
Thanks Tjark, Tim and Bob.

I hope I made your drawings proud.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 24, 2016, 01:13:58 PM
Thanks Bill.  Appreciate it a lot. This was my first air powered engine so I am not sure how they should sound.  I still think it is too quiet,  If you noticed my breathing was louder than the engine.  I am going to experiment by giving it a higher pressure and see if it makes any difference.

Vince

First engine, really?  Not bad for a first try.  I have built a few and never achieved the fine finish that you have on both engine and complete model presentation. It is a real beauty and it sets a very high mark for any modeler to aim for.

Jerry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: fumopuc on January 24, 2016, 01:24:43 PM
Hi Vince, enjoy the glory. You have made a beauty from this plans. When is the next show in Malta ?
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 24, 2016, 09:19:06 PM
Thanks Jerry and Achim.

Good to see you back Jerry.

Achim did you recognize the arrangement of the air inlet shut-off valve? I got the idea from your 16 valve engine.

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: scc on January 24, 2016, 10:40:49 PM
Thank you and congratulations Vince,  A truly inspirational project....................Terry
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: cfellows on January 25, 2016, 03:24:54 PM
Museum quality piece, Vince.  Truly a labor of love!

Chuck
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: gbritnell on January 25, 2016, 04:29:02 PM
Hi Vince,
When you come late to the party it's hard to find superlatives that others haven't used already. Let me say that the engine turned out beautiful. Your attention to detail of the flywheel, bolts and fittings is second to none. On top of all that it runs like a watch.
Congratulations on your build.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on January 25, 2016, 05:20:38 PM
Many, many thanks George, Chuck and Terry.

The Corliss has now found it's place at home, next to the Kiwi.

(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10009/normal_CORLISS200440.JPG)

Vince
Title: Re: Vince's version of the MEM Corliss
Post by: vcutajar on March 04, 2021, 08:39:58 PM
If you do not see the photos in this build log I suggest you look here:
https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Corliss_engine_build.html


Vince
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