Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Kits/Castings => Topic started by: Chipmaster on March 22, 2014, 07:41:07 AM
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I started building this engine in November 2013.
My straightbed Chipmaster lathe couldn't accommodate the 14" flywheel so I used a friends Kerry lathe that has a gap bed for the job and another friend broached the keyway for me.
Andy
Castings
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/13252356044_2fc739f5d6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc4MKj)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7343/13252348144_0f7c70dba8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc4Kp7)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/13252141033_d467d3625c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc3FQe)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2858/13252038975_c13f508f68.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc3auB)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/13252223073_a8ddb832a1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc47dH)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/13252433874_10e4f0c352.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc5bTd)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3685/13252253243_dd83ebefbf.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc4gbT)
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That's a big beastie :naughty:
Can I suggest that every now and then you put some sort of item like a drinks can or a coffee mug in the photo to remind the members just how desirable this engine is.
Jo
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The pulley was straightforward but we had an accident broaching the bevel gear too deep. However, as the hub was sufficient another keyway was broached. I didn't want to use Woodruff keys as per the plan so I enlarged the keyway in the bevel gear with the intention of using a feather key
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7117/13252153605_ed86cb1688.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc3KyZ)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/13252529734_992db0168b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc5FnY)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/13252355343_b9d4448857.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc4Mxe)
The next job was to mark out and machine the base. my veteran Archdale milling machine was just big enough. The pads for the central column, cylinder and valve gear trunnion were at different heights.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/13252575144_1cd6c7de02.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc5USU)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/13252294105_5c74051b69.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc4tkp)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/13252675234_ea4dca2cb9.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc6qCA)
Andy
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Nice looking castings Andy and some good progress thus far as well. It is a big 'un but should make a fine model!!
Bill
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Looks great this, nice to see a Stuart Major being built :ThumbsUp:
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Good to see this build here Andy :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Progress looks excellent so far!
Simon
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Yes it will be rather heavy. The box of castings as delivered was almost too heavy so I hope I haven't overdone it this time and I will be able to move it about! :old:
Andy
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hi , nice work :ThumbsUp:
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That's a pretty big engine, looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
How do you get on with the replaceable tip milling cutter on castings? I have always been concerned that a hard spot would chip a ~£5 tip (or 2 or 3) :(
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Hi Roger, thanks for your comments.
I haven't hit any hard spots that damaged a carbide tip - yet, but I have chipped some points through silly mistakes when I have been distracted. I bought the face mill you see in my pictures for facing hence square tips with 4 cutting points but it can't cut up to an edge as triangular tips can. Hopefully I will get more mileage out of each tip. I think they are well worth it for speed and a better finish.
Andy
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My next task was the central column which gave me an excuse to use my shaper. I wanted to prepare the base as my datum.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/13252786304_88cb32867b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc6ZDA)
I enjoy using the shaper, produces a good finish and can be mesmerising.
url=https://flic.kr/p/mc6hfH](https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/13252647053_e117f391f1.jpg)[/url]
Then I fitted a plug in the top end of the column and set it up for turning using a four jaw independent chuck.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/13252681123_b1cd2ab240.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc6so8)
Andy
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Using your shaper :naughty: :Love:
Jo
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Followed by a taper turning attachment :LickLips: :Love:
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Snap! ;D
Jo
P.S. :headscratch: You seem to be missing a DRO
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Its looking good Andy!! Those are some sizeable hunks of cast iron there too!!!
Bill
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Bill - yes I thought I'd deal with the big chunks as soon as possible, i have finished the beam and will start work on the cylinder soon.
Jo - re: 'snap' I recognise your Colchester taper turning attachment, but I presume your have a larger Colchester lathe because your cross slide has the tee slots at the back, which lathe is it?
DRO yes I would like one of those, perhaps something for my next birthday or Christmas please.
Andy :cheers:
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That's my little diddy Colchester Master 8)
Jo
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I set the taper turning attachment on my lathe to copy the taper of the column casting. Form tools were used to machine the curved sections.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/13252600905_a1b44dc7bc.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc63x4)
The bottom and top of the column were milled to ensure they were parallel and the correct height. The mounts for the trunnions that support the beam's axle were machined at this stage.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/13253007994_4eaa762a0b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc88xQ)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3801/13252868463_8185d87191.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc7q58)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/13252873963_4aed95607e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc7rGX)
Milling and boring the trunnions
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/13253153124_3a3d784f44.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc8SG5)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7073/13252899175_34cf2a6f2d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc7zcD)
Trunnions fettled and fitted, the entablature was machined and added at this stage.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7212/13253271154_db21b45133.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc9tM5)
Making bearing shells using cored bronze sawn in half then soldered back together.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7269/13253117963_e7f4c0c0d5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc8GeR)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/13253376704_1f74020f05.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mca29U)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/13253407654_4d89f64b68.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcabmw)
Using the trunnions as jigs
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/13253523654_cf21779ea2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaLQw)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/13253180855_173bbd976c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc91Wc)
Machining the axle
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/13253553104_3440ba8ceb.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaVAh)
A satisfactory fit
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/13253571224_5763285513.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcb1YG)
I'll finish off the two bearing caps to suit whichever lubricators I chose.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7425/13253403973_32b9eff784.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaag4)
Andy
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That's some very nice work and finishes on those parts Andy. You are really moving along on it!
Bill
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Andy nice to see your work on the Column :ThumbsUp:
I will be having something similar to do with my Otto Langen column which is 320mm tall. With the added opportunity that it needs to be accurately bored for most of that length :ROFL:
Jo
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Hi Jo.
The bore of the Stuart Major column could be left rough but it is quite visible so I will try to machine the upper section purely for cosmetic reasons. To do that I will mount it on a low profile 6" rotary table and work on it with my vertical milling machine which has just about enough clearance. I don't fancy trying to do it in my lathe even with a fixed steady. The alternative is to fill the top of the column :thinking:
Andy
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Hi Bill - I just love the finish I get using suds oil, I have a stripe up the wall and across the ceiling to prove it!
Andy
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Drilling the axle holes in the beam
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/13253420533_e331b6df55_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcafbz)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mcaiWv](https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3826/13253433173_8b707cca40_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcafbz)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mc9BL2](https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/13253298005_ca70b35fcf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaiWv) (https://flic.kr/p/mc9BL2)
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However the bosses on the beam were not concentric with the holes so I milled each of them. In a couple of cases the bosses were concentric on one side of the beam but not the other. I thought if I didn't deal with it at this stage I probably wouldn't sort it out in the future.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/13253673264_e79aff95d3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcbxj1)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mc9Wwt](https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/13253361135_23c8a0b078_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcbxj1)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mcaJjt](https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/13253515183_17bebe0051_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mc9Wwt)
A Dremel was used to tidy it up.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mcaRpa](https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/13253539003_7e76eac219_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaJjt)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/mc3X5H](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/13252192333_36353c761d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/mcaRpa)I have been diverted on to decorating recently but should finish the crankshaft supports and bronze bearings over the Easter break.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/mc3X5H)
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I really like beam engines, following with great interest. Really nice machining of your parts. Can't wait to see the final product. Bronson
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Hi Andy, I like these "Monster" castings. Every time I see a video of this beam running, with its elegant motion, I get in trouble with my wish list. Great job, following along.
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Thanks Achim,
the 'monster beam' casting was rather challenging when I wanted to swing it round on a rotary table, it's about 15 inches / 38 cm long and had to be set up several times to avoid hitting the column of my milling machine.
Andy
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Working on the crankshaft supports and bearings. I didn't have enough leaded phosphor bronze so I soldered pieces of cored bronze on to brass bars to overcome the problem.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/13965385654_fb07881d51_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nh5fBh)
Using the crankshaft support casting to hold the split bearing together during machining.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/nh2QQV](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/13964915485_2ba6d346e6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nh5fBh)
Facing the sawn end of the bearing, I used a piece of cigarette paper to ensure the bearing shells gripped onto a 3/4inch ground steel bar..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/neZMtS](https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/13941880956_ecb820d9bb_c.jpg)[/url (https://flic.kr/p/nh2QQV)
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I messed up the second crankshaft bearing today :toilet_claw: so I had a go at making the pedestal instead, back to making bronze bearings tomorrow.
Milling the base of the pedestal that supports the outrigger crankshaft bearing housing.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5244/13971545622_08cb53bf94_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nhBPKC)Pedestal (https://flic.kr/p/nhBPKC) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Marking the height of the pedestal.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/13971556871_f0ce377e3f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nhBT6z)Marking the height of the pedestal (https://flic.kr/p/nhBT6z) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling the top of the pedestal
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/13971546841_471c5de114_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nhBQ7D)Pedestal (https://flic.kr/p/nhBQ7D) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Ready for cleaning up
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/13994720943_04375af0c8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/njEAY8)Pedestal (https://flic.kr/p/njEAY8) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hi Andy, I have been following along quietly. Those casting are turning out great. Some great fabrication going on here also. I like............ :praise2:
Don
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Nice work on that beam Andy...and I can't help but notice that dandy looking height gage too!! Still following along here even if quietly :popcorn:
Bill
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Yes Bill, the 'Dandy height gauge' was a good investment, no more peering at verniers through a magnifying glass, I recommend digital height gauges.
Andy
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(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14793113516_075270fe9d_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oxdzgj) (https://flic.kr/p/oxdzgj)
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Making a plinth and base sent me off on a tangent earlier this Summer as I learned to use a dovetail jig and other woodwork techniques.
I used new one inch thick sapele.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14812480281_26c92fc370_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oyVQk4)S Major 0258 (https://flic.kr/p/oyVQk4) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Fitted on the plinth using thread inserts screwed into the wood to allow the use of studs to bolt the engine down rather than wood screws
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14812480281_26c92fc370_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oyVQk4)S Major 0258 (https://flic.kr/p/oyVQk4) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Wooden plinth finished with Rustins Plastic Coating. The base is cut from a 10 foot x three foot laboratory bench top that I have kept for 30 years. I think the wood is teak.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14628955018_1e0897600a_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohHdEo)S Major 0275 (https://flic.kr/p/ohHdEo) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Watch and mug posed to give indication of size
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/14628905790_62abce2b3c_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohGY2C)S Major 0287 (https://flic.kr/p/ohGY2C) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
I decided to hide a "bad news dovetail" behind the flywheel. That was the first joint and I struggled to set the router cutter depth correctly.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14793114666_926d54d071_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oxdzB9)S Major 0271 (https://flic.kr/p/oxdzB9) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Next job is to machine the crank. Cable tie stopped the parallel flying out.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14628975028_ff4be6fc35_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohHjBo)S Major 0281 (https://flic.kr/p/ohHjBo) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Crank pressed on to a snug or mandrel for further machining.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14815626085_9dcf132246_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozcXt4)S Major 0291 (https://flic.kr/p/ozcXt4) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Boring the hole for the crank pin. By holding the crank on a face plate
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14628917480_7aa4ec2f1b_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohH2vb)S Major 0297 (https://flic.kr/p/ohH2vb) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Milling the outer surface of the crank, mounted on a rotary table
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14815275752_4280804953_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozbajQ)S Major 0303 (https://flic.kr/p/ozbajQ) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Milling the crank pin end of the crank on a rotary table
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14792644216_62a763181e_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oxbaKW)S Major 0307 (https://flic.kr/p/oxbaKW) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14812560381_336ee6fbc4_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oyWf96)S Major 0308 (https://flic.kr/p/oyWf96) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
The flywheel side of the crank - more fettling required.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/14815655325_e58916aed6_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozd7ac)S Major 0310 (https://flic.kr/p/ozd7ac) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14629575297_fe8116b67c_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohLp3R)S Major 0312 (https://flic.kr/p/ohLp3R) by AGB engines (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Andy
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Not to ignore the fine metalworking Andy, but the woodworking looks excellent. Not sure what it is the flywheel is hiding, but the dovetails showing look beautiful!! That's going to be quite a beastie you have there when done too!!
Bill
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Thank you Bill. That particular dovetail came out rather slack and required filling whereas the other three were tight fits. I wanted a strong assembly to ensure the outrigger crank bearing stays in line. Trouble with this model is that it is already becoming rather heavy!!!
Andy
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How is the build going?
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Hi Perry,
the build stopped just over a year ago because I changed priority to finishing three smaller models that can be seen on other threads I have posted - too many engines but not enough time! However, l will resume work on the Stuart Major during October after finishing the painting of an Economy petrol engine and making up a trolley for it.
Andy
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The Economy would look good on a Hercule drag saw I have details :LittleDevil:
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Hi Jason, I am interested in the drag saw details but the Economy is too heavy to lift single handed already. My Economy is all cast iron unlike the other Economy model build logs I have seen on the Internet which appear to have aluminium castings for the base and hopper. The Stuart Major is also becoming too heavy.
Andy
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I resumed work on my Stuart Major today. The finished length of the cylinder is 5.125", bore is 1.75" with larger counter bores of 1.29/32" at each end which register with the cylinder head at the top and a spacer attached to the engine bed at the bottom. The cylinder will take quite a long time for me to bore out taking small cuts at slow speeds also using a fixed steady to minimise the chance of the casting working loose in my chuck. As the upper cylinder flange has a protuberance I machined that end flat so that when reversed it would sit against the face of the 3 jaw chuck. A close fitting bung was used with a live centre to keep the casting pressed against the chuck while I machined what would be the bottom flange to go in the fixed steady. A few light cuts with an indexable carbide boring bar but I hadn't got a continuous cut by the time I packed up for the day.
I intend to leave the lathe boring out the cylinder while I machine another engine bed on my milling machine, the lathe automatically disengages the feed when the saddle touches an adjustable bed stop.
Andy
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Nice to see an update on this one Andy. With the size of the cylinder, I can well imagine the whole engine will be a bit heavy in cast iron.
Bill
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After boring out the cylinder I worked on the ports. Started out by milling the port face flat then milling the ports to size.
I find it difficult to see what's happening when using a small cutter so I used adhesive copper tape for guidance. The third picture shows a 1/32" rebate being milled around the edge of the ports, this will match the interior of the valve chest.
Andy
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Thought I'd take a break from working on the Retlas this afternoon and finish off the Stuart Major valve chest. My set up in a four jaw chuck was clearly dodgy and I broke the casting and ceramic tool insert with a bang. One piece flew off where I can't find it!
I feel a right plonker for what I did - a momentary lapse of reason and a few hours work wasted :toilet_claw:
Fortunately I was able to order a replacement on-line from Stuart at a cost of £38.34 delivered. I'll take much more care with the next one.
Andy
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Ouch
And another ouch to the price, could you not have silver soldered 4 bits of bar together to make a rectangular box? I have done a few large valve chests that way.
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Wow. That had to make you jump.
The price is for the insert?
Sorry to hear. But it'll be good.
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Yes Jason I agree it would be feasible to fabricate another valve chest, I just didn't think of it, but At least I have thought of a more sensible way to hold the replacement casting!
Carl - the price of the casting certainly made me jump 😪. Its the high additional costs we have to endure in the UK. On this occasion £5.34 value added tax and £6.30 postage.
Andy
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Hello Andy, I've just joined the forum and saw your Major beam. Your build is looking very good. I am also building one and looking forward to finishing it shortly. I just started the governor which is the last thing to do. The flyballs are known to catch the flywheel when extended. There are a few other errors on the drawings such as length of eccentric link rod and threads into bottom feed of the pump. If you want details of these please feel free to ask. Alan
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Thanks Alan, you're well in front of me so I would like to follow your lead, there are some parts that I haven't worked out the methods for making them yet. Judging by the number of views recorded for my build log there is plenty of interest in the Stuart Major. However, as you can see elsewhere on this web community I have started and finished other engines since I began work on my Major, I also have an impending house move that will delay the job even more.
I am not aware of the errors so I would like to know the details please, will you describe how you built your Major on this MEM site, how long have you been building your Major and are you in the UK?
Andy
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Hello Andy, The main error is the one I mentioned........A) That the flyballs hit the flywheel when extended. I made the governor column about 3/16in. taller (and also the spindle the same amount longer) to correct. B) If you look at the pump drawing (item 90) you will see the top dimension is 7/16 X 40 It should be 7/16 X 26. Not a huge problem but it does have one scratching ones head at first. C) The eccentric link rod length dimension is incorrect. I ignored the dimension completely and just made to fit. I had the eccentric half way through its travel and the valve lever rod vertical and made link rod to length. Incidentally to get the full travel of the eccentric the two lifting arms should be horizontal when the lever is vertical. The lever should rock an equal distance either side of vertical when rotating engine through 360deg. )I'm sure you already worked that one out.
Not an error, but all the bearings are shown made of brass. I think its worth upgrading this to phosphor bronze. The major is a nice engine to build and I found it is all the later fiddly bits where the fun begins!. I have a lot of pics. of build but where does one begin! Having said that, I am more than willing to share specific ideas/pics. I also built one of these in 2014 I am in Devon UK. I'm away all this coming week but will check your topic. Where are you? Cheers alan
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Thanks for the tips Alan, I'll look out for those issues when I get to those parts. At present I'm still messing about with the cylinder and valve chest in between work on my Retlas engine. However, I am looking forward to having fun with the fiddly bits, I've had enough fettling and machining iron castings lately. Did you have the same experience as me with the bosses on the beam not looking or being concentric with the location of the associated holes?
Like you I substituted leaded phosphor bronze for brass in all the bearings, both for my Major and Twin Victoria.
Are you making a second Stuart Major, the first one built in 2014?
I'm in Redditch, Worcestershire a fair distance from you so I'll probably ask to pick your brains via this build log or personal messages whichever suits you.
Regards Andy
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Managed to make good progress working on a replacement valve chest casting this afternoon. First I milled all the faces of the casting to clean them up and ensure they are square
After marking out the casting I decided to start work on the gland for the valve rod. This time I added more support for holding the casting in a four jaw chuck, I omitted that sort of packing last week and the casting lasted about 20 seconds. Once the boss had been machined down to 5/8" diameter a parting tool was used to form a flange bored through 9/64" and 1/4" for a depth of 3/8" for packing the valve rod gland. The casting was then milled to size inside and out to fit over the raised port face on the cylinder. Tomorrow I'll check the valve chest is in line with the cylinder then mill a rebate around the edge of the valve chest, I think that's purely cosmetic.
Meanwhile I'm debating whether to stick to the plan and have six studs securing the valve chest to the cylinder or follow a friend's advice and use perhaps fourteen as the builder has in the last picture below that I copied from the internet.
Andy
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Work on the valve chest is in progress but today I wanted to see about bolting the cylinder down to the base. I pasted together these extracts from the plans that show how the cylinder is supposed to be held by six 4 BA bolts passing through clearance holes fastened with nuts. I thought it would be better to have the bolts passing down through the cylinder flange into threaded holes in the base because if the cylinder needed to be removed it would avoid the problem of getting access to nuts or bolts inside the base.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1524/24374589814_e73fcee610_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/D8U9mw)
The holes in the bottom flange of the cylinder were spotted through the cast iron base of the engine, these were all marked out when I started this engine some time ago. However, I could see the holes would be too close to the edge of the cylinder flange and if I reduced the PCD the would be too close to the external sides of the cylinder. I had reduced the diameter of this flange in order to support the casting in a fixed steady when boring it out.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D8UdTs](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1446/24374605064_16e240fc43_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/D8U9mw)
My solution was to make a thin band to go round the outside of the flange and increase its diameter. Fortunately I had a piece of 3" steel tube that finally came in handy after about 30 years. It machined beautifully (unlike a lot of the new mild steel that I buy these days?) and didn't take long to make a ring that was a good fit The burr left by the parting off tool helped to keep the band in place while the Loctite 638 glue set. The ring was too fragile too file the burr off anyway so it was cleaned up after the glue had set.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DVcjMf](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1441/24887184112_da1b04a782_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/D8UdTs)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Dx943e](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1479/24637582909_94d851cc5f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DVcjMf)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DDvHPq](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1670/24709709690_fa2f08359e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Dx943e)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Dx93Fc](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1486/24637581689_7659000c8b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DDvHPq)
After all that fuss I still had to use 4 BA bolts with 5 BA heads and grind away some of the cylinder to make space for the bolt heads.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D9exNn](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1459/24378375813_a7bee4cdfa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Dx93Fc)
This final picture is a view down inside the cylinder showing the 'cylinder boss' with the section milled out to clear the steam passage at the lower end of the cylinder.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DDvHr1](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1711/24709708390_916a85630c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/D9exNn)7 (https://flic.kr/p/DDvHr1) by
It will look fine when I've cleaned it up and painted it. :embarassed:
Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/)
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Good save Andy, thought they would have cast in a boss for the drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder to match the height of the sloping spigot?
Don't let Jo catch you using bolts instead of studs and nuts ;)
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Don't let Jo catch you using bolts instead of studs and nuts ;)
:disappointed:
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Ok Jason thanks for the warning, I'll try to source or make some little nuts in order to placate Jo.
I was slightly annoyed having painted myself into that corner, It's going to take a fair amount of filing to clean it up or perhaps wooden cladding will be a practical option.
Andy
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You don't see many of the Majors with wood cleading, I suppose everyone likes to see the decorative moulding around the cylinder.
You can always make bolts with a dimple on the top to look like studs and confuse Jo, that is whats holding the cylinder to the boiler here as its easier to take out bolts that try and remove the radial studs if ever the cylinder hasto come off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fowler%20A7/PICT0158.jpg)
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Since I started on this engine I have copied all the pictures of majors I could from the Internet and you're right Jason, the cylinder looks better left naked. I've only found one example with wooden cladding around the cylinder.
However, zooming in to these pictures reveals that the little ridge around the base just above the flange appears to have been filed off to stop the nuts fouling it in some examples. The offending ridge can't be machined off on a lathe because of the external steam passage running down the side of the cylinder.
Andy
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Hi Jason, "make bolts with a dimple on the top" . They look very effective and I'd only have to make six for my cylinder. Did you make all those bolts in your picture of the Fowler cylinder? :praise2:
Despite being retired I couldn't spend time doing that.
Andy
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"make bolts with a dimple on the top"
:facepalm:
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looks like a good save there with making that ring :ThumbsUp:
shame there wasn't enough clearance for the bolt heads/nuts though, id have thought they would have allowed enough room when designing the casting to solve that issue.
although if you had gone with through holes and nuts on the underside you could have got away without filling the clearance, its something iv needed to do a lot when bolting machinery and pipework together. bit of a pain and not really the best way of doing things but it does save having to make alterations with a file/grinder
You can always make bolts with a dimple on the top to look like studs
ill have to remember that! might come in handy one day!
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Hello Andy, I was away all last week so sorry to be slow responding to your previous question about the bosses on the beam itself. Yes, they are a problem due to poor positioning of the two halves of the casting box. (Stuarts are aware of this problem). On the first engine I built I machined around each boss to make them concentric. I built 1st. one in 2014 , finishing it a few days before the October show. Interesting problem solve for the bottom flange of the cylinder! I did the PCD as per the drawing and also found the problem with the nuts fouling the bottom 'band'. So I also used 1 size smaller nuts. I then spotted the side of the 'band' by making an upturned cutter with its shank passing through the flange clearance holes and a cordless drill underneath. This makes a nice neat spotting and takes seconds once you have cutter. I've made a start on governor columns and now need to crack on with the fiddle bits. On the 1st. engine I made all the bits out of solid and at the moment racking my brains as to how I did it. Its surprising how quickly one forgets. I do have a few pics of governor. I also think the cylinder is best as 'naked'. I kicked around the idea of more studs in steam chest cylinder but decided I would have to get carried away and do the same elsewhere! I'll see if I can suss out how to add pics. Alan
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"make bolts with a dimple on the top"
:facepalm:
Jo when you come to make a traction engine you will find its very common practice on models to either do like I have or silver solder the nuts to the studs for the reason I have already given. Example a little way down this (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/corromant/diary.htm) page. I suppose you will be using carrot bolts :Lol:
Andy I only made those specials and any studs the rest of the fixings came in little plastic bags :ThumbsUp:
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(http://)
Hello Andy, I dont know if this will work but here is an attempt to add pics. of governor. Alan
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Jo when you come to make a traction engine you will find its very common practice on models to either do like I have or silver solder the nuts to the studs for the reason I have already given. Example a little way down this (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/corromant/diary.htm) page. I suppose you will be using carrot bolts :Lol:
Dimples the standard practise is to use Loctite on your nuts if you want to do fake studs and nuts, that way people can admire your perfect every time 1 1/2 threads. And you will also find that the judges at the show don't turn their noses up at your model and advise you that it is best you keep it in a dark corner with the lights off ::).
I have no idea what you mean by carrot bolts, it is not something I have come across: Can you give me the BS number for them.
Jo
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Hello Bertie, yes indeed for a model that has been in production for so long it is ridiculous that there are any problems at all. We read complaints about errors with many models and their drawings but I have yet to see a response from the manufacturers or whoever sells the kits. In common with several other beam engine builders I made a box to support the engine. Nuts or bolts that were holding down the cylinder would fall off inside when undone. It would be a pain having to take the cast iron base off the box to reach the underside to be able to fit and tighten bolts passing through clearance holes.
Like you I like Jason's bolts with a dimple on the top.
Andy
Here's a picture of my wooden box base and the circular cylinder mounting pad is at the right hand end of the base .
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14628918589_4f5dc28e61_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ohH2Qi)S Major 0268 (https://flic.kr/p/ohH2Qi) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
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Jo
Sorry to the OP but the question was asked
About half way down is your salvation.
http://beamishtransportonline.co.uk/2015/01/ti-news-week-1-2015/
Stuart
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I have no idea what you mean by carrot bolts, it is not something I have come across: Can you give me the BS number for them.
Jo
And I thought you were going to build your BB1 to Fowler drawings. I thought everyone interested in traction engines knew that carrot bolts are what were used to fix the cylinders to the boiler :-\
Loctite is fine on small stationary engines etc but on a working TE particularly one with a steel boiler buy the time you have a bit of corrosion, sealer like Foliac or Stag, heat, etc its more likely that the loctite will give way when you try to undo things. This will leave the studs stuck in the barrel and you only have a very short length of thread to try and get hold of them by.
J
EDIT Stuart beat me to it while I was trying to get my scanner to work
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My copper BB1 boiler was designed and built by Southern Boiler Works: The cylinder will be mounted as per Paul's detailed instructions.
Jo
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Hello Alan,
Your work on the governor casting and the governor bell crank is most impressive, I will have to pick your brains on that bell crank.
It is reassuring to hear that the beam casting was at fault, have you taken this up with Stuarts yourself?
When I marked out the beam for my engine I had to check the measurements several times to satisfy myself that I had got it right. A list of known errors included in the kit wouldn't go amiss. My kit included an errata sheet but most of the details about the crank were illegible......
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1539/24997910586_5741b63bdc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E5YPUo)Stuart Major Errata Sheet 008 (https://flic.kr/p/E5YPUo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
How about this, now that I have the cylinder bolted down to the base I drilled the 2BA clearance hole down through the entablature into which the 'entablature stay' is fitted. I wanted to see how the lug on the top of the cylinder lined up so I passed a 3/16" rod though the entablature and was a bit disappointed to find that it wasn't resting right in the middle of the lug, it's about 1/16" out. I have checked everything and the cylinder is perfectly in line with the centreline of the engine and the face of the steam port face is at right angles to the centreline. I realise cylinder could be out by a few degrees on it's axis but it's too late now and my priority was to get the steam port face at a right angle to the centreline. Perhaps I carried out some of my tasks in the wrong order. Anyway when I make the entablature stay I can subtly adapt it to the misalignment.
How did yours line up Alan?
Andy
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I carried on working on the valve chest and its cover today.
A purely cosmetic rebate was milled around the edge of the valve chest.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1441/24907206082_cd35790180_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWBC)S Major 366 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWBC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then holding the cover casting in a four jaw chuck I machined both faces and drilled the steam inlet through the centre of the boss.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1613/24907206152_41d0be85a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWCQ)S Major 367 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWCQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1542/24907206182_e321ce6bed_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWDm)S Major 369 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWDm) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I stuck to the plans and settled for six studs to mount the valve chest and cover on to the cylinder thinking what if I broke a tap in one of the extra unnecessary holes?
The pictures seem to have come out with a soft focus, almost romantic ! I must check the settings on my Microsoft Lumia phone camera that I used.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1597/24907206222_3b72fe96df_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWE3)S Major 370 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWE3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1522/24907206242_1a33fcae7c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWEo)S Major 373 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWEo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1590/24907206292_0440a99d9b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWFf)S Major 374 (https://flic.kr/p/DWXWFf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To be continued.........
Andy
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Andy, Thank you for your kind comment. I dont think the rebate around the steam chest is just cosmetic...I think it is to allow the 2 valve rods to be closer to the chest and therefore to each other, hence keep the crosshead as short as possible. I guess this would have been important on full size practice, When you fit said rods you will see function of rebate. The errata sheets are unreadable but I will look for my digital copy for you. The important dimension on the crank is the one between centres and which is correct. Re. entablature stay. Its a bit late now but its necessary to establish the lug centre when setting up the valve face for machining. I did'nt think about it either but was lucky enough to be pretty much there. You could enlarge entablature hole a little to gain some leeway and maybe slim down the fat side of the lug and also place the hole slightly off centre.....if the stay is a degree out of vertical it will not be obvious....every little helps as they say. I don't wish to be 'whatever' but maybe I should come clean and say I am actually building a pair of engines. I have also mounted my engines on a 'box' I've seen one on stilts and did not like it at all. Tomorrow I am going to make the flyballs. Also,..... we have only just met and I prefer not to see romantic pics just yet!.
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Hi Alan, we've just returned from our Valentines day meal out which has bought me extra time in my garage for the week ahead.
I machined the crank back in August 2014 such is my rate of progress with this engine so thanks for the offer of your digital version but it's not necessary. I'll leave my crank as it is - plain without the embellishments which I assume were detailled on the errata sheet. I contacted Stuart about the illegible errata sheet and was told they couldn't improve on it because the original had been lost.
Now I understand that the rebate around the valve chest is clearly functional following your comments and studying pictures of completed Majors, thanks.
Making a pair of Majors, will they be linked and share a common base?
Reckon I'll alter the soft focus setting of my mobile phone camera not wishing to appear too forward.
Andy
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"make bolts with a dimple on the top"
:Lol: I thought I was bad with 'thingies'.
I haven't posted much here but have been reading and enjoying.
Looking forward to seeing it run.
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Hello Carl,
Pleased to hear you'e following this build log.
Don't know what to say about thingies other than just hang on in there. :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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Hello Andy. They are two separate cased models. Making a mirror pair is an interesting idea....you've got me thinking now!. I see you machined the rebate on the top of the steam chest....nice touch. Alan
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"Making a mirror pair" - I have this part built Twin Grasshopper that was passed on to me to complete in 2013 by a friend who had owned it for many years. He saw it advertised in Reeves shop when they were in Marston Green Birmingham and bought it. I wonder whether anybody else tried a twin Grasshopper?
Work has progressed beyond the stage featured in these photographs (these were taken nearly 3 years ago) but my Stuart Major, Economy, Chuk and Retlas arrived and jumped the queue. Perhaps I'll do a short item about this model, which I think originated in Model Engineer in the 50's and was updated in 1965. I have a copy of the 1965 article by Sydney Owen and the complete plans.
These castings are brass and gunmetal - one engine is all brass the other all bronze. However, there are some issues with the model as it came to me,
- The bore is 1.5" with iron piston rings which don't seem ideal for running in the brass and bronze cylinders. I think I'll re-bore the scored cylinders and substitute silicone O rings.
-The fabricated crankshaft is in one piece with the cranks set at 180 degrees and is quite straight but I think it would be better to separate the two engines and have a coupling between them perhaps with the cranks at 90 degrees for self starting.
- It's a very heavy model, perhaps it would be a better bet to make two separate engines.
- As a twin the engine will need a fair amount of steam.
Food for thought Alan.
Andy
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Andy, The grasshopper is a solid looking bit of kit. I think it would be really something as a twin. Gunmetal bores: I've never seen cast iron rings in them but that's not to say it isn't done.
I have seen good old fashioned graphite rope in a gunmetal piston in gunmetal bore....they always seem to be very smooth with virtually no drag.....just a thought.
I agree crankshaft would be better done at 90deg. And yes, you will need hell of a boiler to run it. Alan
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Hello Andy...For when you come to do the pump. When at it's highest point I found the piston rod (84) was out of its guide in the main pump body, so effectively there would be no packing gland. To fix, I made sure that the bottom plug (89) was no more than the 0.125" spec., then made the piston 3" rather than the 2 29/32" spec. The top stuffing gland is 1/2" spec.depth into the body, best to reduce this to 0.4375".(and also the gland by 1/16"). If the piston bottoms out then you might need take take a smidgeon of the bottom of it. (If, like me, you did the assembly with the stuffing gland in situ , then put the piston in,you would not notice there was anything wrong). I hope you are keeping busy in the workshop Alan
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Still following quietly here Andy. Nice progress on the Stuart Major, but I like the twin grasshopper too :)
Bill
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Just over three years since I did any work on my Stuart Major, a house move and several projects on the new home plus other / easier model engine projects kept the Stuart Major in the background. I had wondered how I would form the small slots (5/64" and 3/32") that feature in several parts of the engine. These slots accommodate tapered cotters or wedges used to lock parts together. Fortunately Dave 'Chipswitheverything' told me how he had formed the slots on his own Stuart Major so I started work on the cast iron connecting rod copying Dave's method.
Off to a good start with the con rod turned between centres taking light cuts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935778863_e1cfc253be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmySK)WP_20190416_15_53_36_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmySK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Machining various sections.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47902328991_fecc9cbafe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXvZ)WP_20190416_16_51_30_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXvZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using a form tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935778793_256ea62c75_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmyRx)WP_20190416_17_27_34_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmyRx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
For the fish bellied central section I varied the angle of the topslide.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112890354_843ee3dfa7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSV1)WP_20190423_17_27_07_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSV1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The slot in the big end was cut with a slitting saw then closed with a piece of steel glued and pinned.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935774873_a50914f7db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxFX)WP_20190428_16_49_53_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxFX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Cutting the slots in the fork ends.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112890244_935dbb6f8b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcST7)WP_20190427_17_36_37_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcST7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Everything was going well.....
Andy
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Hello Andy,
Glad to see the work continues, I will be following.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Thanks Thomas.
I made the retaining strap by drilling though a piece of flat steel bar then held the bar in the lathe toolpost, two cuts with a slitting saw formed the legs of the strap.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112889864_fe31e07042_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSLy)WP_20190505_15_07_04_Rich (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSLy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The 3/32" slots in the strap were milled with a slot drill and finished with needle files.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935774163_dc145d31f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxtH)WP_20190505_18_38_15_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxtH) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935774033_1f82c1a3dc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxrt)WP_20190506_16_35_22_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxrt) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling the step in each leg of the straps.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112889404_12f225902e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSCC)WP_20190509_12_11_34_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSCC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The finished connecting rod and straps, then I started fettling temporary cotters or wedges.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112889014_95e0e5c78e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSvU)WP_20190509_17_42_52_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSvU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Unfortunately a cotter jammed and I broke the casting trying to get it out. This picture shows how the thin casting broke. I was being heavy handed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47902328081_9e1d07272c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXfi)P1080900 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXfi) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To be continued..........
Andy
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Time flies doesn't it. Good to see you back on the build but sorry about the mishap with the casting.
Bill
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Hi Andy, are you going to attempt a bronze weld or silver solder repair of the break-out? Should work fine if you V out the break a bit to get the filler metal well in. Clean Clean Clean, flux well and get it to a good red heat then flash some bronze or silver solder in. good luck!
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good to see you back on this build , sorry for the mishap though.
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Andy, I see you were fitting plain wedges when a wedge and matching cotter is the usual means to retain these straps, not only do they pull the strap tight around the bearing but the cotter prevents the strap from spreading. A single wedge also needs a matching sloping face on the components if it is to work and not get stuck, this is more commonly used on say a piston rod to cross head joint..
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/IMAG0242.jpg)
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/PICT0336-1.jpg)
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Hi Jason, I decided to have a go at more work on the Major assuming it would take longer for you to complete the Allman engine for which I also have the castings and intend to complete using your plans. However, just as I started you posted the video of your Allman running.
I agree with what you said about paired wedges and cotters. The plain wedges In my pictures were supposed to be a loose fit, just a temporary means of holding things together. I’ll make up the correct cotters and wedges when the connecting rod and it’s straps are finished. A replacement connecting rod casting would cost about £70 delivered and I could have the same problem again.
How did you form the slots shown in your pictures, particularly the deep slots?
Hi cnr6400, too delicate for me to attempt that sort of repair so I decided to amputate and replace the forked end of the connecting rod. I wasn’t happy with my work on that end of the con rod anyway so it had to go.
Andy
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Pleased to see you back on the Major Andy, shame about the fork failure.
... I decided to amputate and replace the forked end of the connecting rod.
That's a good way to go forward :)
Jo
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Cutting from solid what a good idea ;)
The slots in the pictures are 1/16" wide, first I drilled each end and then a couple more holes between right through. Changed to a 1/16" 3-flute cutter and did a series of plunge cuts at something like 10thou intervals but could only go about 1/2 depth so had to come at it from both sides.
Finished the slots with modified needle files that I ground the teeth of the faces so they only cut on the edges. ARC now sell special files for just this sort of job which I have bought and am waiting to use them on the current build.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Tome-Feteira-Files/Swiss-Pattern-Needle-Files/Joint-Square-Edge-Needle-Files
J
PS Allman now painted and back together. More drawings have been done :)
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Thanks for the needle files info Jason, I can buy those knowing that they’re thin enough to pass through the 5/64 and 3/32 slots. I have looked at many needle files on the Internet but most of the retailers don’t state how thick the files are.
Unfortunately slot drills as small as 1/16” are very vulnerable in my ancient Archdale milling machine which features loads of backlash. I can barely see what they’re doing because the chuck blocks most of the view.
Andy
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I can recommend using a home made tee slot cutter from the side to cut the holes - you get nice square sides and ends to the slot and I have cut them down to 0.8mm wide that way ;)
Finish the remaining middle bit with a ground down safe edge needle file .
Jo
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Hello Andy, thanks for showing your interesting build sequence photos of the con rod, I think that you were rather unlucky to have that snag. Just to add that for the smaller endmills and slot drills that I use, I just hold them in the mill in simple 2MT holders, socket grub screw secured, that I made up from BMS ( Arc Euro and others seem to do similar, like the Arrand ones formerly available ). They give a far better view of the little cutters than the substantial Autolock type of chuck. Have made them up for the various smaller metric and imp. sizes. Dave
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Thanks Dave, I happen to have a 40int to 1mt adaptor so I have ordered two soft blank end 1mt arbors from Chronos at a mere £5.40 each inclusive.
Andy
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I bent a piece of mild steel bar to match the forked end of the con rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112893994_6297ecb8f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTZL)P1080903 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTZL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Before sawing off the forked end I mounted the connecting rod circular section in a three jaw chuck and set up a fixed steady to support the machined section just before the forked end which was about eight inches away from the chuck (forgot to take a photo). I already had an accurate centre within the fork so it was easy to set the job up to ensure concentricity. I then bored about an inch down the centre of the con rod and tapped the hole 2BA. The fork was then sawn off and the end of the con rod machined flat.
The sawn off bit
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47902327771_e0239f8405_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXX9X)P1080923 (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXX9X) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Cutting the slots in the replacement fork.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935773113_f37bb94dd6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxaB)WP_20190514_16_56_04_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmxaB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112888844_c22b0af2f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSsY)WP_20190514_16_56_10_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSsY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The replacement fork end tightly secured with a 2BA socket head countersunk screw.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47902327491_1ce0e9ecdf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXX58)P1080929 (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXX58) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112892604_973388c2d0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTzN)P1080933 (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTzN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The join is barely visible
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935777463_8a9f755be4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmysB)P1080931 (https://flic.kr/p/25nmysB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Great redo on the end piece - how did you do the bend?
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Hi Chris, like a Blacksmith I heated a flat bar up to red heat and hammered it around a one inch diameter steel bar which was the gap specified between the legs of the fork.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47902328131_6b1b0fbf02_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXga)P1080898 (https://flic.kr/p/2fYXXga) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
It required a few re-heats and squeezing in a vice to get the legs parallel. I then milled it down to the required thickness which also got rid of the marks left by the hammer. It didn't need much filing to achieve a symmetrical shape.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
Great repair / blacksmithing job :ThumbsUp:
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hi Andy clever repair job there....well done..
Willy
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Nice save Andy!! Keep up the great work!
John
P.S.: pretty nice collection of Gibson's in your avatar. Just need the double neck 6/12 string...
(My mistake, I see it hiding at far left. Nice!!!)
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This is serious work! :ThumbsUp:
John
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Hi Johnmcc69, well spotted, are you a guitarist too?
From the left the twin neck is an Epiphone, next is my son's Gibson SG Standard, then a rubbish acoustic, my USA Fender Stratocaster, my Gibson Les Paul Standard, my son's white Epiphone SG and finally my 1972 Gibson SG Deluxe that I've owned for 45 years. The photo was taken about 15 years ago I still have my four guitars but rarely play them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47924586498_93533fe770_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2g1W2U7)DSCF0483 (https://flic.kr/p/2g1W2U7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Flickr has not been working properly today so I thought I'd experiment with the guitar photo before returning to Stuart Major matters.
Andy
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Hi Johnmcc69, well spotted, are you a guitarist too?
Guitarist? More of a "Hack" than anything else....
I have a Cheap Fender strat & old Palmer that I picked up as my first guitar in the early 80's. Been playing a little more "seriously" the last 5 or 6 years now that I've learned to be patient & not break as many strings...
Thanks for the guitar pics Andy, total guitar envy...
Really enjoying watching your build,
John
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Next item was the brass big end bush, one half square, the other half semi-circular.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47925172373_1cffc97178_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2g1Z34p)Big End Bush (https://flic.kr/p/2g1Z34p) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Circular part machined,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112888944_e2b5a7ef7a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSuG)WP_20190516_15_54_37_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSuG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milled it down to half it's diameter,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112888714_ff8fb97053_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSqJ)WP_20190516_16_38_19_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSqJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Added the square half by attaching a rectangular piece using silver solder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935771813_d2c8bb5568_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmwMc)WP_20190516_17_17_47_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmwMc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112888174_c535563cb6_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSgq)WP_20190516_17_25_49_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSgq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milled the rebate in the square half to fit the end of the con-rod and strap.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112888124_b78070e5e1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSfy)WP_20190517_12_42_31_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcSfy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Cleaned it up to fit the strap
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935771643_a6163115ce_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmwJg)
Then drilled and reamed it to fit the crank pin
[url=https://flic.kr/p/25nmwDr](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935771363_32848a81dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmwJg)WP_20190517_13_10_33_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmwDr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Parted off,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935769993_e6d20a79d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmweP)
Re-heated to break the silver solder joint and fitted in the connecting rod strap with a temporary wedge,
[url=https://flic.kr/p/25nmvSB](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935768763_cb8672f3a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmweP)WP_20190517_16_09_58_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmvSB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Great job on the bearing! Got to remember that one, tried using soft solder once with mixed results, looks like the silver solder route held much better.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Hi Chris, like you I've had failures using soft solder. This time I contrived to use a longer silver solder joint for added strength. However, because of the higher temperature involved you have to be careful not to melt or distort delicate brass parts when trying to separate them. I've done that, very frustrating to see a few hours work wrecked in that way.
Andy
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The next step was to make the pair of brass bushes that fit on the forked ends of the connecting rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47938514246_53936907a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2g3aq8G)Fork end bush (https://flic.kr/p/2g3aq8G) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To ensure they matched I machined them together in one sitting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935768533_9d4e774ba6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmvND)WP_20190518_15_43_46_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmvND) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milled half the diameter away.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112886584_dd2ff810b5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRN1)WP_20190518_16_02_08_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRN1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Soldered on a rectangular piece of brass using silver solder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112886084_63d6bc812f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRDo)WP_20190518_16_23_22_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRDo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milled channels in the square half of the bush to match the semi circular half.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935776753_d131c14a61_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmyfn)WP_20190519_16_33_49_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmyfn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Drilled and reamed the bushes to 9/32" diameter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112891274_719a7c9a2a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTbS)WP_20190519_17_16_04_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcTbS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Parting off each bush
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112885944_b35a70ed61_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRAY)WP_20190519_17_23_48_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRAY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46986221545_a6db052d73_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eA1EG2)WP_20190519_17_24_30_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eA1EG2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112887254_f2ef89413f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRZy)WP_20190519_17_37_40_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRZy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Bushes separated into halves by carefully heating to break the silver solder joint.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40935763213_8eb9d24c6b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/25nmudV)WP_20190519_17_55_53_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/25nmudV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Fitted on the connecting rod fork, retained by the straps and temporary wedges.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46986218755_f1c2ae030a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eA1DRV)WP_20190520_16_28_28_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2eA1DRV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The bearings seem to be a good fit, there is no slack or binding. Jury rigged and it turns over smoothly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47112887204_69c3e05fca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRYG)WP_20190520_20_02_06_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2eMcRYG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
There is a long way to go with this engine particularly trying to achieve the beautiful finishes I see on other Stuart Major seen in pictures and videos on the Internet
Andy
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Nice job on the brasses Andy!
gbritnell
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Hi Andy, a good result on the split brasses : there is a load of work in these innocent looking components, more than meets the eye once they are all finished, and lucky you, you have eight more pairs to do in the parallel motion links, and then the tiddly half shells for the oval ended radius rods....! But very satisfying to be able to put some assemblies together and see it moving sweetly. Dave
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Cheers George and Dave, you certainly have to be in it for the long term with this one. I have started work on a set of I F Allman castings which I’ll probably be able to complete sooner following Jason B’s excellent drawings.
Andy
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Looks like you have got all the fun bits done now Andy, only the fiddly little bits left :LittleDevil:
Allman is making good progress, at this rate I'll need to complete a few more drawings.
Got this little one to run today but had to forego the flames :(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYWZrxXmRgg
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if interested I made a form tool for the parallel motion bearing spacers , it made the job of making these easy . You can borrow it if you wish just pay postage to and from .Or I can give you instructions on how to make one your choice .Jeff
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Hi Andy
I'm fairly new here, but I have been through all your build videos of the Major and all I can say is wow, what a fantastic build you are doing.
Your skill to build this very complex engine is outstanding, I don't know if a lot of people outside the forum could appreciate the amount of work that goes into a build like this.
I'm currently building it's little brother and that is very taxing, I don't have the equipment to build something this big, so I'll be watching you complete this monster.
What I love about Model Engineers is how different we approach a build, we all learn from each other.
All the best.
Gary
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Well Gary I am overwhelmed by that. I have to say there are other MEM members who have built the Stuart Major before me who have provided plenty of practical advice via posts and personal messages. It could be a daunting project so I like to take breaks making other smaller models. Like you I don’t have all the appropriate equipment for many aspects of the build but improvising and overcoming problems is a part of this hobby that gives great satisfaction.
Andy
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This afternoon I had a go at the piston, the kit included a piece of 55mm diameter cast iron bar sawn perfectly square and long enough for holding in the chuck. The kit also includes two cast iron piston rings
Copied from the plans:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057498482_5c181f0e71_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdFf13)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2gdFf13) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Turned down to 1.75" and forming the piston ring grooves with a parting tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057479802_6f31ee4fa9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9rY)WP_20190613_17_08_33_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9rY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Tapering the bore using a tiny boring tool and offsetting the topslide.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431903_4fa8c31230_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEUd8)WP_20190613_17_37_46_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEUd8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431798_1c78840319_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEUbj)WP_20190613_17_37_54_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEUbj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Forming the recess in the top of the piston some cuts with the lathe in reverse.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057479462_5f09ce59f7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9m7)WP_20190613_20_28_20_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9m7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
and some cuts with the lathe running forwards,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431513_433a14fbd7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU6p)WP_20190613_20_33_04_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU6p) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Recess done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057479182_f697fa434a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9gh)WP_20190613_20_33_13_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdF9gh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Parting off the piston
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431308_0d5d8e2bf0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU2S)WP_20190613_20_37_01_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU2S) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Almost there
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431228_78ab61753c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU1u)WP_20190613_20_47_13_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdEU1u) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
It's off, phew :DrinkPint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431143_ca9bcb3415_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdETZ2)WP_20190613_20_53_10_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdETZ2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I'll do the recess on the other side tomorrow.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48057431028_5a4d38712a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdETX3)WP_20190613_20_56_29_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gdETX3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Phenomenal build...!
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Great work Andy.
I hate machining pistons
Gary
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Finishing the piston.
Boring out the recess in the underside of the piston.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061171608_8885763f07_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ge14TN)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2ge14TN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061123321_2acc5d16d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPxg)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPxg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Finished
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061123226_0b18e90b2d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPvC)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPvC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I made a dummy piston rod because I only had a short length of 1/4" diameter stainless steel. The steel bar was held in a multi-collet chuck and the taper formed by angling the topslide to six degrees. A 2BA thread was cut on the end of the rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061171333_1b562e16bf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ge14P4)Piston rod (https://flic.kr/p/2ge14P4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061123136_456d66f02b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPu5)Piston rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPu5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Looks OK.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061123071_563f94036f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPsX)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPsX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48061122831_386456957d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPoP)Piston (https://flic.kr/p/2gdZPoP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Hi Gary, I reckon I prefer machining pistons - no surprises because I can see what's happening unlike boring long cylinders with flexing boring bars, oh and I like working with cast iron apart from the mess.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
Still following along and admiring all your work.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Hi Thomas, thank you for your interest and compliments. I have started work on the cylinder head this afternoon. Had to stop when I was called in for dinner this evening.
Andy
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Some work on the cylinder top cover.
The drawing,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063285448_0d0ed4b9c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gebUgj)Cylinder top cover (https://flic.kr/p/2gebUgj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Cleaning up the underside and edge of the casting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063138618_1093ef4470_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geb9BL)Cylinder head (https://flic.kr/p/2geb9BL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Forming the register that fits inside the cylinder and drilling for the piston rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063089766_9c191be7cb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geaU6u)Cylinder top cover (https://flic.kr/p/2geaU6u) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Starting to clean up the top of the cylinder cover.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063089721_07d7ca6b29_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geaU5H)Cylinder top cover (https://flic.kr/p/2geaU5H) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A small blowhole :cussing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063187287_0627e69a16_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gebp5T)A blowhole in the cylinder top cover casting. (https://flic.kr/p/2gebp5T) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I polished the casting with emery paper to see whether I could achieve a decent finish but was called in to dinner so that was the end for today.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48063187242_fa7ca949bf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gebp57)Cylinder top cover (https://flic.kr/p/2gebp57) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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A small blowhole :cussing:
:toilet_claw:
What's it look like this morning Andy any better? Can you live with it or is it a case of make/get another one?
Jo
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Morning Jo,
I reckon I can live with it, I'll try to machine a bit more off the casting, after all the dimensions of that ridge aren't important. I could position the cover so that bit is out of sight or fill and paint it although I do fancy polishing it.
What do you think looks better?
I'll do some more engineering this afternoon :)
Here are some pictures of ST Major top cylinder covers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48066014347_52d347ae3d_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqTti)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqTti) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48065960138_c80642ab4e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBmE)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBmE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48065960128_48d5b2dab4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBmu)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBmu) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48066014297_9bfe9e31a7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqTsr)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqTsr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48065960188_55a9ebdf5f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBnw)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 6 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqBnw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48065911396_3be9b94e15.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqmSh)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 7 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqmSh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48065911301_e5d953e8d3.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geqmQD)Stuart Major Cylinder Top Cover 8 (https://flic.kr/p/2geqmQD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
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Good morning Andy.
From your photographs I'd say more an " inclusion " rather than a " blowhole " you can see the mark in the unmachined casting prior to the turning operation.
These can be caused by bits of sand being dislodged during the pattern removal or the pour.
Ultimately, the choice is yours as to finish. We all know what happens to untreated Iron when subjected to the environment! ;)
Cheers Graham.
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Hi Graham, I see what you mean. I hadn’t noticed the mark in the unmachined casting, well spotted.
I do admire polished metal surfaces but I’m not allowed to keep my engines in the warm house.
I have to keep an eye on them in the garage.
The flywheel rims on my Alyn Foundry RLE were like polished chrome. However, I was shocked to find them rusty when I took it out of its closed wooden box recently. Fortunately I had caught it in the nick of time and after a hour the rims were shining again. It had only been put away for two or three months and the water jacket was bone dry.
Reckon you have far higher humidity where you live.
Andy
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It is an area I do tend to paint along with the middle of the other cover if it is exposed eg a horizontal cylinder but then again I'm not really one for a lot of spit and polish.
Just the top nut bearing surface and the 1/16" step would have been machined on the full size engines casting leaving all the bead and area inside with a cast surface until you got to the top of the spigot which again would have been faced.
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Finished machining the cylinder top cover this afternoon using a few form tools that were to hand.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067624622_77d6f326dc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gez99E)WP_20190615_16_29_49_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gez99E) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Opened out the hole for the piston rod gland (from 11/32" drilled from the other side yesterday) to 1/2" to a depth of 9/16"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067519166_3475011e60_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2geyANs)WP_20190615_16_51_37_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2geyANs) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Cover sitting on top of the cylinder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067624292_7aa65d9a96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gez93Y)WP_20190615_17_02_34_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gez93Y) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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That's looking nice Andy, the casting has turned to a decent finish. It'll be a while before you need to make a final decision on the painting. I'm going to have to paint the inner part of mine, though, as there are a few small casting blemishes in that area. Similarly, as I may have said in my own earlier write up, I have had to paint the main tapered column as the iron had a speckled micro porosity that I could not polish out at all. But though the polished column looks rather good, as on Mr H A Taylor's beam engine, I doubt that the real engine would have had other than a cast, filled and painted column. Dave
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Hi Graham,
Reckon you have far higher humidity where you live.
Andy
Yep....
About eight feet higher than normal Andy.
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Hi Dave,
yes the top cover casting was fine. The column casting of my kit seems pretty good and could probably be buffed up and look very smart but as Graham points out it might be difficult to maintain the finish, especially where he lives!
Today a little progress - drilled the cylinder top cover and cylinder + tapped for six 4BA studs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48075176541_31c79c5aea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gfeR5a)WP_20190616_18_26_53_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gfeR5a) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then made a lot of swarf turning down a piece of cast iron bar to 1.1/8" to make the piston rod gland
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088158441_903ff22405.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo92)WP_20190618_16_24_19_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo92) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Piston rod gland - copied from the plans
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088223801_c0623f7402.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoHyV)Piston Rod Gland (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoHyV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I carried out all of the machining without removing the cast iron bar from my three jaw chuck so the bore and outside are concentric. Most of the metal was removed by a parting off tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088255172_90d59b0223_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoSTN)WP_20190618_16_41_37_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoSTN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088158231_1ed47e9676_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo5p)WP_20190618_20_43_49_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo5p) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088158151_edfcabfc2f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo42)WP_20190618_20_43_58_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ggoo42) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Job almost done,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48088195653_9018e9bd94_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ggozcB)WP_20190618_20_41_38_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ggozcB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A flat is supposed to be milled on one side of the gland to provide clearance for the cylinder lubricator that will fit in a 3/16 x 40 tpi hole that can be seen in the bottom of the recess on the right hand side of the picture. A couple of bronze bushes are also required to fit inside the gland and guide the piston rod.
Andy
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The top cover is looking great!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Very nice work!
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Thanks Jeff, I'll soon be making the parallel motion spacers using your form tool as I progress up from the cylinder.
Andy
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A little more work on the piston rod gland required two gunmetal bushes, the Piston Gland Bush (15) that fits inside the gland and the Packing Gland Bush (16) that fits in the cylinder top cover. The funnel shape of the packing gland bush will squeeze the packing material onto the piston rod when the gland is pulled down by three 6BA nuts. I machined the bushes - turned, bored and parted off from a bronze bar that stayed in the lathe chuck throughout to ensure they were concentric.
Copied from the plans,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099773408_ca80b4c98f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpUS5)Piston rod bushes2 (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpUS5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099776413_27ff8947d4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVKT)WP_20190620_20_46_26_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVKT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Packing gland fitted in the cylinder top cover,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099830642_560d0dd70d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghqcSS)WP_20190620_20_47_22_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ghqcSS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Viewed from below,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099732276_c4fb674a63.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpGCU)WP_20190620_20_48_15_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpGCU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Piston Gland Bush pressed into the gland.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099776298_d07418e17a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVHU)WP_20190620_20_48_45_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVHU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
All put together
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48099776518_bb60888dae.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVMG)WP_20190620_15_58_35_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2ghpVMG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Miraculously the reamed bores of the bushes have lined up, the piston rod (attached to the piston in the cylinder without rings) moves without binding.
The next item will be the piston rod crosshead which looks challenging, for me anyway..... the square central bit, tapered bore also a tapered wedge = potential to mess up many hours of work with silly mistakes :headscratch:
I have zoomed in on several pictures of completed ST Majors on the Internet and noted some variations in the way the piston rod is retained in the crosshead.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104591173_2b60a4373a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z)Piston rod crosshead 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hi Andy, bushes all looking good in situ ( sounds more like landscape gardening...! ) The crosshead is a nice but fiddly thing to make.
Just thinking about it, I might suggest leaving it for now until you have the radius rods and the motion link split bearings to take actual measurements of bores and widths from: as it could be easier to make the turned areas, dia. and lengths, on the crosshead, suit your other components than to make the other bits conform to the crosshead. I found it quite helpful to be able to measure what I had , and tweak the dwg. of the crosshead a few thou here and there. Depends on your liking for working to pre arranged tolerances, perhaps... Dave
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This one fell off my radar for a while but you have really made some fantastic progress Andy. I am back up to speed now....impressive work!!
Bill
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Hi Dave, yes a bit horticultural. I've been pruning lots of bushes this week in particular a row of Berberis (nasty thorns) that was getting out of control.
I agree with you about reasons for working to hole sizes. However, I became too enthusiastic and started work on the crosshead, if it all fits then I'll consider myself lucky but having worked out the procedure to make it I won't feel too bad if I have to make another. I'll start on the Parallel and Radius Rods this afternoon if I have suitable material.
Yesterday we drove to Croome Court (National Trust near Worcester) in my wife's MX5 with the roof down and got sunburned - some people never learn ! :facepalm2: ::) so not fit for model engineering yesterday evening.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104591173_2b60a4373a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z)Piston rod crosshead 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I started with a 7/8" bar of mild steel (believed to be EN1A) and turned down one end to 5/8" to fit in a multi collet chuck and an ER40 collet and square block later on and proceeded to turn it to a bobbin shape.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104594418_76490309b3.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQBYW)WP_20190621_14_10_46_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQBYW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104543221_37ed27d3af.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmLe)WP_20190621_15_20_13_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmLe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using a parting tool for the 9/32" diameter sections.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104543166_64b56e56c4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmKh)WP_20190621_18_04_55_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmKh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Leaving about an eighth of an inch stub for the centre which will be removed later. This is where I'd got to Friday night. My plan is to mill the central section into its rectangular shape with the crosshead still attached to the bar, held in a square ER40 collet block or a dividing head.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104542431_0c3ee47ea9.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmwB)WP_20190621_18_14_39_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQmwB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Hi Bill, I'm not surprised it disappeared off your radar, it had been left untouched for three years!
Andy
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Impressive stuff on the beam engine, its one I always wanted to do myself but never got around to.
Am I right in thinking you are in Redditch? I'm in Inkberrow!
I'm half way through an Alyn Foundry Robinson hot air engine, and getting into a 7 1/4" gauge Locomotion, but I don't think we are allowed to talk locos on here.
Doesn't the beam engine have some long slender fishbellied rods in the valve gear and parallel motion? If it does I'm keen to see how you do them. Locomotion has a number of rods, about 8" long 7/32" dia down to 3/16" dia with a fishbelly profile. I'm at a loss to know how to machine them. The only way I can think of is to spin them up in the lathe at a decent speed, and attack them with a series of flat files followed by emery cloth.
Richard
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Hello Richard, yes I’m in Redditch, good to hear from a MEM member who lives just a few miles away.
We often drive through Inkberrow, yesterday we must have driven past you on the way to Croome Court. I finished an Alyn Foundry Robinson hot air engine earlier this year and I machined fish bellied connecting rods for a Stuart Twin Victoria. I’ll send you my phone number via a Personal Message.
Andy
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Richard
There is a way not my idea nor have I tried it , but for a long and SLENDER rod note slender
Put a centre hole in each end
Offset the tail stock then grip on end in the chuck get a firm hold then put the center in you wil have to bend the rod to engage it
Then turn from the TS end half way rinse and repeat the other end
Theory is that a beam deflected will form a curve
Caveat emptor
Do not try this on a light lathe you need industrial strength to stand the abuse the headstock bearings will take
Note disclaimer I do not recommend this and I take no responsibility for any machine tool harmed in any way
Stusrt
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Hi Andy, don't blame you for fancying an early crack at making the crosshead, it's the sort of component that one has an itch to have a go at!
I was interested in the Victoria rod that you showed, as that transition from the round rod to a flat sided U fork is a tricky thing that has come off nicely, and I imagine needed careful handwork. I was looking at just the same requirement last evening along with a friend who is making a James Coombes engine, which calls for round, flat sided bosses at the end of fish bellied con rods, and we were mulling over ways of avoiding the awkward geometry that Stuart has imposed on the builder. Never came to any very convincing decision.. Dave
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I'm at a loss to know how to machine them. The only way I can think of is to spin them up in the lathe at a decent speed, and attack them with a series of flat files followed by emery cloth.
I tend to divide the length into 3, taper the end thirds then blend with files. See my couple of posts on this page
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=86341&p=14
I have also used the method Stuart describes which is ideal for a classical column though I don't have an industrial lathe :o
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Hi Dave, indeed the pair of Stuart Twin Victoria connecting rods required a lot of careful work with files. I used filing buttons to produce the rounded ends. The starting point was flat steel bars. The holes for the big end and crosshead U fork were drilled and reamed first then the rods were turned down between centres on my lathe. The taper turning attachment was used to produce the fish bellied shape by altering the taper at intervals along the connecting rod. When machining was completed and the rods were off the lathe the filing began. First I opened up the U fork with a hacksaw, plugged my iPod into the docking station in my workshop and started filing. I compiled a playlist for for the job "Music to file Con Rods by", the laid back / calming music was vital.
Turning between centres.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122124968_4442fae8d9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjotcN)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjotcN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122124903_80deb9e669_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjotbF)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjotbF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The fish bellied shape - subtle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122124753_d9a1a5de03_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjot96)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjot96) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Rod sitting on the plan - shows what was required.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122186202_bc1f531dc5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjoMpy)Photo 96 (https://flic.kr/p/2gjoMpy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I didn't take any photos of the progress with filing, only the finished connecting rods.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122124393_4f7c2c4ff5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjot2T)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjot2T) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122123878_29d24b75f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjosT1)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjosT1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48122088966_a86bf360ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gjohv5)Connecting Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gjohv5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Most of the work on my Twin Victoria was done before I joined Model Engine Maker. However, I added a brief build log on MEM if anyone is interested. I'm not sure how to paste a link to it, I'll post this then have a go.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,3378.msg59892.html#msg59892
Andy
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Great work Andy
I don't know how you do such intricate work.
I have to do the same thing on the Stuart Beam, (boy I'm looking forward to that ::)) the build is looking great, I'm learning so much from the master.
Thank you
Gary
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Hi Andy, thanks for putting up the interesting photo sequence, I commend your filing, though I think my preference would have been to machine most of it using my Geo. H Thomas pattern small rotary table , made long ago. ( Been mighty useful for lots of the fiddly stuff on the Major beam engine, like the governor swing links, as one can set the stops minutely to limit the table rotation . Also the table rotates quickly, just pulled round by hand, ideal for small radii which would be very tedious if one had to wind the handle of a larger table round dozens of times just to do a 1/4" dia boss... ). Admittedly, the machining would not sort out the final blending of the U fork and the rod! Multi axis CNC would be handy there..!! Dave
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Hi Dave, my preference is also to machine whenever possible if I have the appropriate tools. I’ve just come in from my garage for a break after sawing through various steel bars :old:
There are a couple of laser cutting firms close by. One does two dimension and is quite prepared to do odd jobs. The other firm does three dimensions which would be very useful but they can’t interrupt their busy schedule with my bits and pieces.
Andy
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With the embryonic cross head held in a square collet block it was easy to mill the central section into a rectangular shape,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267290606_687d9c92b5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtTC)Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtTC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267290251_0180d74a55_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtMv)WP_20190625_17_00_39_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtMv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267290101_fff57fd822_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtJV)WP_20190625_17_21_19_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtJV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then back in the lathe to machine off the end that had been used to support the job with a centre,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267366732_a634619808_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdSw9)WP_20190712_16_32_19_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdSw9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Followed by parting off the cross head and putting a matching chamfer on the other end,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267366467_64190882f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdSrz)WP_20190712_16_47_16_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdSrz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267289431_87f59a4f96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtxn)WP_20190712_16_48_52_Pro (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtxn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The cross head is fitted to the tapered end of the piston rod by using a 1/4" taper pin reamer. I did a test with a piece of 1/2" square brass bar to determine how far to go with the taper reamer. it would have been rather disappointing to ruin the cross head with over enthusiastic reaming at this stage. So, a piece of insulating tape was wrapped around the reamer at the appropriate point.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267288626_c9662ee556_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtiu)WP_20190712_17_48_31_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtiu) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267290761_53fbd23325_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtWi)WP_20190712_17_48_49_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtWi) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I drilled a 3/16" pilot hole through the cross head then followed through with the taper reamer using Trefolex cutting paste, love the smell of Trefolex.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267289266_8144c1e268_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtuw)WP_20190712_17_30_46_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtuw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267288696_b86f3662eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtjG)WP_20190712_17_34_56_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtjG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here's the cross head sitting on the piston rod
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267288651_b7c1467b7b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtiV)WP_20190712_17_47_13_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdtiV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48267365362_6379a31b60_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdS7w)WP_20190712_17_49_06_Pro (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gxdS7w) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Now I have to decide the best way to cut a slot to take the wedge that passes though the cross head and piston rod,
Andy
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That's looking good Andy, bringing back memories...! I did the slot in the two components by the usual drilling then filing method in this case, but the slot size is big enough to get standard sized needle files into. Helps to have safe edges and crisp corners on some files. Dave
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In between following Jason's plans machining various parts for my I E Allman engine I kept thinking about the fiddly bits on the Major such as the cross head that had to be fixed to the piston rod sooner or later.
The plan shows a wedge retaining the cross head on the tapered end of the piston rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510526421_b9b8c88242_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUH8qz)Piston rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gUH8qz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48104591173_2b60a4373a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z)Piston rod crosshead 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2ghQB1Z) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I wasn't optimistic about filing the deep and narrow slot so I considered alternative methods of securing the piston rod that I had seen in pictures of other Major beam engines,
Taper pin
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510384456_b9d26b4a7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGpdU)Pinned crosshead (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGpdU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Nut on the end of the piston rod
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510415711_2503f2f87a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGyvM)Threaded piston rod (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGyvM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510636132_49dff331c2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUHG39)Threaded piston rod 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2gUHG39) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I decided to go for the slot in case I come up against a rivet counter.
Using Loctite 222 to keep things together, I fitted the tapered piston rod end in the cross head. Then I drillied 5/64" hole through the centre of the cross head and piston rod and elongated the hole using a tiny <1.5mm slot drill (from JB Cutting Tools) in a Dremel - enough to get started with my smallest needle file. Several hours later I had managed to form a tapered slot and a wedge that seems to keep the parts locked together even though the fit doesn't look exact at the entrance and exit of the slot.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510483177_8493ce37e4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUyZ)P1090064 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUyZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510482857_178c57604b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUtt)P1090066 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUtt) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510297106_93e20d501b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUFXfS)P1090067 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUFXfS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510482997_f4b17dc97b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUvT)P1090070 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUGUvT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48510296951_1d59480251_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUFXdc)P1090076 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2gUFXdc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hi Andy, good to see your pictures of the crosshead work: rivet counters aside, if you had stuck a nut on the top, (and a taper pin, well! ) , you would have been less pleased with it whenever you looked at your engine. As there seems to be plenty of meat still in the piston rod around the slot, I would say that you could revisit the slot filing if you felt like getting a neater external appearance around slot and a slightly thicker tapered cotter. Dave
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Yes Dave there is room for improvement with my needle filing skills in particular I need to avoid a tendency to have a rocking action. I think I have produced concave surfaces at the top and bottom of the slot. Need to buy some more needle files with various profiles and safe edges. As you say there is plenty of meat left in the piston rod around the slot.
Andy
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Excellent progress :praise2: :praise2: Trefolex is good but in my communal cellar it is 'Verboten'. I have to use odourless cutting compounds.
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Morning Roger, when I look at the plans and parts list for the Major beam engine the end seems a very long way away.
Not being allowed odours in your communal cellar must be awkward at times. How does hot cutting oil from lathe work go down?
Andy
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I use Weicon Bio-Cut which avoids most of the problems:
https://www.weicon.de/media/pdf/56/1f/05/TDS_11750400_EN_Bio-Cut.pdf
It's not cheap but works well, otherwise I have to be careful to keep all the swarf in my area and not leave dirty door handles etc.
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Gosh Roger I wouldn't last long in that environment!
Andy
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My next task was to make the two radius rods that are part of the Watt Parallel Motion Part 76 on the extract from the plan,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48578733007_fbab4c5bf7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h1JGSc)Parallel and Radius Rods (https://flic.kr/p/2h1JGSc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using 5/8" diameter EN1A steel bar I machined two bars to the exact overall length of the motion rod plus a stub at each that was centre drilled and turned down to 7/32", the eventual thickness of the rods.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582840231_8d5b33b736_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h26KNp)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h26KNp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582988022_5a7e442bc8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vJw)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vJw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Flats were then milled on the ends of the bars, sufficient for the formation of the eyes or ball ends. The 7/32" diameter stub on the end of the embyonic rod served as a guide for milling to the required thickness.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987972_35d2a040a6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vHE)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vHE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987952_508277154d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vHj)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vHj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Fllickr
Back in the lathe the embryonic rod was carefully set up in a quick change boring bar holder to ensure the bores were parallel and the correct distance between centres.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987882_9ecdacf431_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vG7)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vG7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582988282_cbbb39acdd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vP1)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vP1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The rods were then roughed to the profile of the ends of the rods. The eye was supported by a close fitting plug with 5/8" diameter flanges to act as guides.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582839296_60c9a35b68_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h26Kwh)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h26Kwh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987282_4497fbd7e2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vvL)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vvL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A Radtord type ball turning tool was used to machine the radiused eye ends of the rod. The outward end was supported by a live centre and a close fitting steel plug was fitted in the bore of the eye to prevent distortion.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582988267_75f0fb33fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vNK)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vNK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987697_32217b2589_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vCV)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vCV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
One end finished and the stub removed note the close fitting steel plug fitted in the bore of the other end to prevent distortion when turning between centres.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582839581_117e582890_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h26KBc)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h26KBc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987542_eeb05c5a05_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vAf)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vAf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987197_c553004bbe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vui)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vui) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The finished end was protected by thin brass strips and held in an independent four jaw chuck. The other end supported by a live centre. The rod was reduced to the require diameter by taking only small cuts to minimalise the risk of bending the rod. The angle of the top slide was altered at interals along the rod to achieve the fish bellied form....almost!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582987517_7377a56379_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vzP)Machining parallel motion radius rods x 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2h27vzP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Finished, the form is not perfect but they should be functional, I hope. However, I have to make several other parts before I find out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582847771_23a7e2a688_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h26N3p)Parallel motion radius rods (https://flic.kr/p/2h26N3p) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48582995652_dd4fb4a4d1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h27y15)Parallel motion radius rods (https://flic.kr/p/2h27y15) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Good looking parts.
:ThumbsUp:
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Thanks for complementing my parts Gary.
Andy
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Making further parts of the parallel motion has been interrupted by spending time running my engines to ensure they are ready for three local events over the next six weeks.
This post concerns the radius rod bushes part 77 and the radius rod pivot pins part 78.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667783422_78fa00409c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9B7sb)Radius rod pivot pin and bush (https://flic.kr/p/2h9B7sb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I opted to use bronze for the four bushes. Milled the bar down to half it's thickness then silver soldered the two halves back together ready for machining in the lathe. Enough for four bushes and hopefully a spare.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667740191_5412168a01_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATAP)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATAP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
External diameter machined down to 13/32" and internal diameter bored and reamed to 9/32" diameter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667393978_1b784acecf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7FC)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7FC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then parted off each bush using a very thin parting off tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667393823_b132b6478c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7CX)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7CX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Bronze bush about to be heated so the two halves fall apart when the silver solder melts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667393623_633e36572a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7zv)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9z7zv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After heating to melt the silver solder they fell apart becoming a pair of bronze split bushes. The rough surfaces of the silver solder will need to be filed flat so that the two halves form a circular bearing. I also filed small marks in the edges so that the halves could be matched and identified.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667622763_a0105ed1c1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9AhGc)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9AhGc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667966041_7685a3c67b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9C3JM)Split bushes for radius arms (https://flic.kr/p/2h9C3JM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Bushes fitted into a radius arm, they are a close fit.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667892307_157b175d32.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEPv)IMG_0131 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEPv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Machining a radius arm pivot out of mild steel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667739466_b4e0486c55.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9AToj)Machining a radius arm pivot. (https://flic.kr/p/2h9AToj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Radius arms and their pivots.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667739396_447c3c5c84.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATn7)
[url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/]Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATn7), on Flickr
Assembled
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667891762_5c16a1442a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEE7)Radius arms fitted to the pivots (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEE7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Mounted on the entablature
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667891627_706defd4d1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEBM)Radius arms fitted to the pivot then attached to the entablature. (https://flic.kr/p/2h9BEBM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48667738961_2773059569.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATeB)Radius arms fitted to the entablature. (https://flic.kr/p/2h9ATeB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Now I'll have to make the pivots again because the threaded section was barely long enough, I hadn't realised how thick the entablature is.
I'm considering the bronze bushes may need to be retained in the radius arms by loctite or tiny grub screws if alignment is not perfect. I have noticed set pins or screws through the eyes of the radius rods in pictures of the parallel motion on some Stuart Major engines. Can other ST Major constructors or owners advise?
Andy
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Hi Andy.
Perhaps a daft question but why " split " bushes? There doesn't appear to be any adjustment in the links you recently made.
Cheers Graham.
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Hi Andy, good progress on the pesky little split bushes. Graham, they need to be split because of the assembly method required by the Major design, so that the bushes are placed on the bearing surface and the hole in the oval rod ends slid over the bigger diameter of the bearing end. Andy, I used 10 BA bolts at each end of the rod to lightly nip the bushes into place, might be some help to put a dimple into the split half that the bolt lodges against, and maybe a splodge of threadloc on the tiny screw on final assembly ( as the bolt or screw can't be tightened much without pinching the bearing ). It's not the greatest engineering arrangement, but it does allow dismantling. Dave
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Hello Graham, agreed there is no adjustment and split bushes do seem a complication that could be avoided if the pivots were made in such a way that the flange on the end could be removed and a solid bush fitted and retained. As per the plan the two halves were fitted to the solid pivot then the radius rod pressed over the split bush. Perhaps I should add some more pictures to illustrate how they are assembled.
I had thought that there was an easier way to achieve the end result with the pivots and bearings. However, I usually enjoy the challenge making these fiddly bits. There have been several stages in this build when I’ve thought the design is plain awkward for my ability and equipment but I reckon and hope these parts and embellishments will enhance the final appearance of the model if I get it right.
Andy
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Hi Dave,
you beat me to it.
Thanks for the succinct response and explanation of how you retained the pesky little bushes.
Andy
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You could do solid bushes if the pin just had the flange on the head end and a longer thread that could go through a separate flange and spacer. The other option which I'm sure you don't want to do now is have marine type ends on the rods.
Taking the 10ba screw option further a small square headed setscrew and locknut may look the part.
Good progress anyway, I better get on with those drawings!
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Thanks Guys.
Going back a couple of photos I can now see that it was a daft question, a second cup of coffee might have helped before posting! :)
Cheers Graham.
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More fiddly bits - part No 74 'Parallel Rod' two required.
The method is very similar to that used for making the two radius rods in post 155 et seq. However the small diameter of the rod - 5/32" at two points and 0.126" for the 5BA threaded end was a challenge working out how to hold the job and requiring great care and patience. I am at the halfway stage with the second rod.
The parallel rod started out as a 5/8" diameter steel bar. Two flats were milled on opposite sides of the end of the bar.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723219468_dfffd07f37_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2heveE5)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2heveE5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The marked out bar was held in a quick change boring bar holder, carefully set up at a right angle to the axis of the lathe and adjusted to the correct centre height. The hole was drilled and reamed to 3/8".
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723552531_37431a7e13_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWEx)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWEx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A brass keeper was fitted to the eye to prevent distortion when supported by a live centre, rough turned then finished with a ball turning tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723552461_bfebc93bd8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWDk)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWDk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723219223_e62390e88a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hevezR)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hevezR) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The brass keeper stayed in the eye whilst the rod was machined to a 'fish bellied' shape..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723219128_75b2320139_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2heveyd)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2heveyd) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The 'eye' end of the rod had a stub used for support with a centre. The stub was sawn off and the eye filed smooth. The other end was turned down to 0.126" diameter to be threaded 5BA.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723552076_133fbf07e2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWwG)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hewWwG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
One finished parallel rod, one more to be made.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723218473_2fd3866edf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hevemV)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hevemV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Fitted to the cross head.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723726237_ae33a64906_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hexQit)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2hexQit) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48723218743_565d0ea997_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2heverz)Parallel Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2heverz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Oops the bronze piston rod bush popped out.
Andy
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Hi Andy, nice progress on the two "other" parallel motion rods. As all the parts of the parallel motion build up, the assemblage starts to look interesting. On the parts that you have just shown, as on my engine, the steel bore runs on the steel bearing surface of the crosshead. Not that great a design, I drilled an oil hole in the top of the oval boss so it could be lubricated a bit better. Don't suppose any of these models run enough for the matter to cause a problem... Dave
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Thanks Dave, I finished the second Parallel Rod this afternoon. The design is indeed odd running steel on steel when a plain bronze bush could be fitted in the eye of the rod. As you said most Stuart Majors wouldn't be run for long periods and I reckon the bearing is lightly loaded and not much movement.
Andy
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48733287332_8e97d2c468_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hfoQtW)S Major 0645 (https://flic.kr/p/2hfoQtW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Both Parallel Motion Rods fitted to the cross head,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48733104301_54f9021bc5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hfnU5e)S Major 0644 (https://flic.kr/p/2hfnU5e) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48733104401_091fc1b6be_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hfnU6X)S Major 0643 (https://flic.kr/p/2hfnU6X) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
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Started work on the Parallel Motion Straps, part number 70 - four required.
Copied from the plans.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755007038_4ea1a9b53e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhj9ZC)Part 70 Parallel Motion Strap (copied from plans): Four required. (https://flic.kr/p/2hhj9ZC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Picture of a Stuart Major under construction exhibited on the Stuart stand at the Bristol Model Engineering Show 2014. The four straps can be seen in this picture.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48756149506_c529a83e43_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhq1Bm)Parallel motion straps (https://flic.kr/p/2hhq1Bm) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Job partially marked out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48754968488_896554ded9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhiXwY)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhiXwY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I considered making them bending steel strip but as I couldn't obtain the exact imperial size required I used 3/4 x 1/4 mild steel and milled that to shape.
A 7/16" hole was drilled then the slot was milled using a 3/16" diameter slot drill which was a slow process. i left a gap or bridging in the end to strengthen the legs during subsequent procedures.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755288336_a7617712a3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhkABA)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhkABA) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I decided to speed up the process by drilling two 7/16" holes then I would use a 3/8" slot drill to mill out the metal between the holes.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755483682_eedf6fb76c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmAFC)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmAFC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The embryonic strap was marked out to have 3/32" wide slots in where gibs and cotters (wedges) will be used to retain bearings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755484087_be832bbed5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmANB)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmANB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling the slot slowly backwards and forwards deepening the cut by 0.010" each pass.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755483987_4988b25bae_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmALT)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmALT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Of course the slot drill left a radiused end to the slot.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755288006_6e3fd24ab3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhkAvU)Parallel Motion Strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhkAvU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The ends of the slots were squared by using a needle file.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755483767_4429d24a46_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmAH6)Parallel Motion strap (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmAH6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Another strap under construction.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48755483582_9c50ddfbed_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmADU)Parallel Motion Straps (https://flic.kr/p/2hhmADU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To be continued.....
Andy
I hope I live long enough to finish this!
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Andy, the problem is not so much living long enough , (I'm sure that you will ) , but actually retaining the will to live as this lot proceeds!
Anyway I see that you have tackled the slots by the "proper" method and not by the eye deceiving naughty method that I used! Though it did give very crisp slots... The external shape as per the drawing is worth the trouble, with the offset centre at the top of the "U" and the thinning of the sides, looks nice.. Dave
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Hi Andy.
Well.... I was going to suggest a " square push broach " but crikey, have you seen the price? I have one only at a 1/4" square, inherited at some point in time.
The other option is " slotting " but my slotting head is so heavy I can't lift it anymore. That particular tool made me a fortune when I was making parts for the preservation movement 3 decades ago.
Cheers Graham.
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I use a tee slot cutter on either side then finish with a ground down needle file :-X
Jo
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Oh well Dave you have lived to tell the tale. I didn't feel the urge to employ your 'eye deceiving naughty method' because I have a few 3/32 slot drills in stock and some new Vallorbe needle files that are excellent. I didn't realise you had also used your cunning naughty method on your straps. I used it for the connecting rod - Reply No 80.
Hi Jo, I haven't seen tee slot cutters small enough for these slots, well done with your Chuk by the way.
Hi Graham, I would be afraid of breaking an expensive broach on this job. However, is such a broach available that would form these 3/32" x 11/32" slots?
I made progress with two more straps today and still haven't broken a 3/32 slot drill..............
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48760797818_69d9437c09_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhPQoE)S Major 0661 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2hhPQoE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I'll do the needle filing job squaring the ends of the slots on Sunday when rain is forecast. There are still a few more operations required to complete these straps.
Andy
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Woodruff cutters would do the 3/32 but like you I have not seen tee slot that small.
Don't make too much progress you will be wanting more drawings!
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Hi Jo, I haven't seen tee slot cutters small enough for these slots, well done with your Chuk by the way.
I picked up some 1.6mm wide but for the recent engines I made my own from Silver Steel and hardened them and they worked well :)
Thanks for CHUK 2, we never saw/heard more on those CHUK 1 castings :(
Jo
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Good morning Jason, I haven’t any experience with Woodruff cutters. After reading your post I found various 3/32” Woodruff cutters for sale so perhaps I’ll try one next time.
How are the rest of the Allman plans? I haven’t had enough time to get on with my Allman and the other sets of castings stored in my workshop.
The stationary engine club that I’ve been a member of for 32 years is having a member’s only rally this weekend. I sold off my collection of stationary engines so I’m going to take as many model i/c engines as possible tomorrow. I’ve been cleaning and polishing them since yesterday. It will be good to take the Retlas, Economy, Gardner O Type and RLE engines out and show them running.
It’s the Winterbourne House, University of Birmingham annual toy / model steam gathering next Saturday 28/9. I’ll be spending even more time cleaning and polishing steam and hot air engines to exhibit there.
https://www.winterbourne.org.uk/whats-on/toy-steam-and-traditional-hobbies-day/
Morning Jo, yes I can imagine that Woodruff or your tee slot cutters would be well suited to cutting these slots in these straps that are only 5/32” thick.
Andy
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Nice job on those straps Andy!
Hoping to see pic's of your engine display next weekend.....
John
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Hi John, thanks for the encouragement. I have a way to go with those straps. I think i’ll have to work on the finish if they’re to be acceptable.
I’ll take pictures of the Winterbourne event for MEM.
Andy
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Plodding on with the parallel motion straps.
I cut the four straps off the parent bar then milled each edge to form a step as per the plan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958832937_7fa2ef9338_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPkg)S Major 0661 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPkg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958095413_23cfdb7e74_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAg36k)S Major 0662 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAg36k) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then machined and hardened two 11/16" od bushes with a 7/16" bore to act as filing buttons, a 7/16" bolt put the bushes in just the right place for grinding and filing the round ends.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958648761_6f8a7cbaff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAiSzP)S Major 0663 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAiSzP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958648846_5581237c56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAiSBh)S Major 0664 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAiSBh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After sawing away the keeper between the ends of the strap they needed tidying up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958832837_50fba76c95_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPix)S Major 0665 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPix) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here are the four straps but they still need much more work to make them presentable.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48958832722_d87f098a42_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPgy)S Major 0667 (https://flic.kr/p/2hAjPgy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hi , interesting work on the straps.. and working from accurate drawings is a good way to go ...on my engine as it is a 1/18th scale model I scale the drawing down . But then have to adjust the dimensions to be able to use standard drills and milling cutters etc. What I do actually is just use the hole centres and go from there !!..the Bressingham engine uses the same type of rods as yours but they use brass inserts with adjusting screws/bolts to take up the wear..here is a photo of them..There is also an extra part that locks the cotter in place to stop it moving...real belt and braces on the original. it is small details like these that make all these prototypes so interesting ,and challenging to make !! I have just looked at the drawings of the motion rods and have noticed that the holes are spherical ( a 1/16th offset of the radii )rather than round and so perhaps a split bush could have been used with the small bolts to adjust for wear..??
Willy
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Hi Willy, I'm glad the Stuart Major straps aren't as elaborate as the straps you're having to make for your Bressingham engine model. The Parallel Motion is a prominent part of the engine which needs to be well finished so I have a lot of polishing to do.
By the way how was the Forncett event this year, any pictures?
Andy
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Some progress with the Parallel motion, stud fitted in the end of the beam with pivots for the Radius Rods either side attached to the Entablature.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730907_a72c897249_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNEP)
Straps loosely hanging on the studs (I haven't made the bearings yet) and the two Radius Rods.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNDG](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730842_ed36c57246_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNEP)Parallel Motion under construction (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNDG)
Things seem to be lining up ok :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002531886_899ca4ac8c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMvq) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMvq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next part I made was the Crossbar,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002528466_b115353a50_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbLus)Crossbar - part 75 (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbLus)
A straightforward turning job,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002532496_1f4e452f51_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMFW)
I used a ball turning tool to start the radiused section then finished it off with a file.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNBh](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730702_67baa68ea8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMFW)
The central section had flats miiled on either side followed by two 5BA clearance holes drilled through for the two Parallel Rods.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNzU](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730622_13f12eb573.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNBh)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNyM](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730557_6e439f7346.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNzU)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMxE](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002532016_aaaab79b81.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNyM)
Here the Crossbar is loosely attached to the Parallel Rods.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNsQ](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49002730212_3fae992b0c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hEbMxE)
Bronze bearings next, tomorrow I hope.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2hEcNsQ)
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Lovely work :popcorn: Terry
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very nice work !
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Thanks Terry and Jeff,
I have made a little progress with the 'Lower Motion Link Bush' part No 68 which are split bearings, four required. I used bronze instead of brass, but encountered a milling machine malfunction along the way which has prevented any further work involving milling, more about that in another post.
Here is an extract from the plan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020546231_553e6f2a7c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM7xz)Lower Motion Link Bush (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM7xz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A straightforward approach for making split bearings, half of a 3/4" bar was milled away, half of the milled section sawn off then the soldered back on for machining. However, the outside of these bearings is rectangular with thin shoulders. I thought I should end up with four identical bushes if they were machined together from a bar.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020550761_c7acfde898_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM8TF)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM8TF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Soldered
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020750917_0c3a785c6d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNaoD)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNaoD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I went in with a parting off blade to form the shoulders of four embryonic bushes then put the bar in a square collet block taking care to ensure correct orientation of the soldered join. The plan being to mill the bar to the required rectangular profile then use a 3/16 end mill to form the 1/4" wide faces in between the shoulders.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020750847_499cd4559f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNanr)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNanr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020750477_41febfb4b9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNag4)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNag4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Parted off and cleaned up
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020750812_0720cfc462_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNamQ)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNamQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The better sides.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020550466_658c997165_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM8NA)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM8NA) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Irregular shoulder thickness.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020025568_31c93205be_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFJrLC)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFJrLC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Buffed up
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020750542_577b1be139_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNahb)Lower Motion Link Bush x 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2hFNahb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Unsoldered
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49091124976_2cd4b980b6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hN1R9u)Lower Motion Link Bush (https://flic.kr/p/2hN1R9u) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I'm not entirely happy with these bearings and may have to make them again, it will depend on how they fit in conjunction with the upper motion link bushes (parts 66 & 67) and even more important - whether I can hide the chewed up bits from view, I've managed to conceal them in my pictures!
Perhaps the method used wasn't appropriate, any suggestions for an improved approach would be most welcome.
Andy
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I usually machine some bits of bronze block to half thickness in your case 1/4 and a bit over size in the other two dimnsions. Then tin and sweat together. I will then machine to overall size on the mill then if small drill and ream in the mill or bore in the lathe if larger. Finally hold in vice and mill the grooves.
Nice sharp milling cutter on the small ones and big for that matter especially if a soft GM bearing so you don't have much in the way of burrs to clean up..
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Vertical%2024/DSC02536_zpsue7ad3xl.jpg)
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Vertical%2024/DSC02537_zpsswicsjw8.jpg)
If you want a turned lip then follow by holding on an arbor
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Oscillator/DSC02368_zpsjcycuvvj.jpg)
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Jason, on yours do you silver solder or soft solder?
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Soft, don't see the point of anything stronger as you will be taking it apart after machining and it is also easier to clean off the solder afterwards with a quick rub on wet and dry.
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Thanks Jason, I'll make them one at a time when I do that again.
Andy
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To make the 'Upper Motion Link Bushes' = radiused part 66 and square part 67 following the normal split bearing routine and followed Jason's advice making them one at a time, well almost..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020546231_553e6f2a7c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM7xz)Lower Motion Link Bush (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM7xz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here I'm milling the rebate with confidence now that I have resolved my milling machine lead screw problem.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159496547_6a996f0fe5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hU4gCF)S Major 0702 (https://flic.kr/p/2hU4gCF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Unsoldering the halves
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49158783058_0b1d57eee3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZBx9)S Major 0705 (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZBx9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Machining the radiused parts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159268821_d3724b6457_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hU36Wn)S Major 0706 (https://flic.kr/p/2hU36Wn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then came the Motion Link Spacer Bushes
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159216661_9b692020aa_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hU2Qr4)Motion link spacer bush (https://flic.kr/p/2hU2Qr4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
For these I was fortunate to acquire a form tool from another MEM member (thanks Jeff L). I started the job by roughing out then the form tool did the rest at a low speed and a copious amount of cutting oil.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49158741478_b735b24caf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZpbf)S Major 0710 (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZpbf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49158741388_b7a4f5a100_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZp9G)S Major 0711 (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZp9G) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159454757_6097d4264d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hU44da)S Major 0712 (https://flic.kr/p/2hU44da) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
With the bar held in a square collet block I marked out the rectangular ends and milled the 'bar end' to shape. i used a linisher to shape the other because I thought milling would rip it out of any of my workholding devices
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49159226341_efb5ff9416_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hU2TiX)S Major 0717 (https://flic.kr/p/2hU2TiX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here is the first spacer and the set of Upper Motion Link Bushes,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49158740953_d30c9659cc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZp2c)S Major 0719 (https://flic.kr/p/2hTZp2c) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I finished the third spacer this afternoon, it's a slow process with the roughing out followed by going in with the form tool using very gentle feeds at slow speeds. I have had one 'dig in' that destroyed a spacer when I tried too much force feeding in the tool.
Andy
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Great looking parts Andy! :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
John
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So you put the halves that needed the radius together to turn the outsides, then put each half with a square half? Clever!
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Happy to see that the form tool worked well for you .
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Hi Andy, pleased to see your continuing progress with the interesting little bits of the parallel motion, all coming on very well. When i got those four links all done, embarrassingly long ago!, I felt pretty chuffed because they do look interesting and very decorative and it seems like a good step forward on the Major build as a whole. Dave
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Cheers Dave, progress is being when my workshop isn't too cold. I've really got in to making the Motion Link Spacer Bushes using the form tool from Jeff L, there are four plus two spares so far. At first I had my lathe turning at 35 rpm using an anonymous cutting oil. however, after a couple of failures I increased the speed to 350 rpm used CT-90 Cutting and Tapping Fluid and the form tool went in very easily.
Here are some of the 'interesting little bits of the parallel motion' in a tin awaiting assembly,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49183514067_61206a9957_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hWbncR)
Now I have to make four more pairs of the rectangular Lower Motion Link Bushes to replace the rejects (taped together) in the tin which I made a mess of. The bearing halves are not even and the rebates are all over the place.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2hWbncR)
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Hi Andy , I'm sorry I should have gave you a few hints about using the tool . It does not like standard cutting oil , the fact is I cut mine dry . And a moderate rpm works well but you already figured this out , very sorry .Jeff
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Hi Jeff, apology not necessary, you told me back in May, ".....the most important part is they are cut dry", I forgot your advice.
Andy
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Hi Andy, impressed by the tin full of bits including some spares that look as if they ought to be put to use rather than left in the tin. Just a totally ridiculous thought, but if you have any acquaintance who is into "Steam Punk" dressing up , two assembled links would make a fabulous pair of unique ear rings....! Christmas is coming.... Dave
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Looking great!
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Thanks chaps.
Dave - unfortunately I don't know any steam punks.
I'm on a second attempt at making the four Lower Motion Link Bushes - part 68.
Here's a picture of one of the bushes on someone else's ST Major,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214392873_140d0ac6a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYUCp4)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49020546231_553e6f2a7c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hFM7xz)
This time instead of bronze I have used pieces of 3/4" x 3/8" rectangular brass bar soldered together with tinmans solder then bored and reamed 9/32" in my lathe as the basis for the split bearings.
Transferred to the milling machine to reduce the dimensions to 17/32" x !/2",
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214824421_9fa8ea34ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYWQFx)
Using a hacksaw I then cut pieces 3/8" long off the bar. After each cut the bar was returned to the milling machine and the rough end trued up. That gave me four embryonic bearings that I mounted with the true/flat face down against a parallel so that I could mill them to the required 5/16" thickness.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKiJ](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214806336_ba7179053b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYWQFx)
The next job is milling a recess 1/32" and 3/64" deep, 1/4" wide around the outsides of the bushes. Machining four at once hoping to achieve identical bushes I used a 1/8" end mill and opened up the slot.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKh6](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214806241_1082b983b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKiJ)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hYUh9p](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214324743_2fea6fb4dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKh6)
A 1/4" slip gauge sitting comfortably in the slot.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKeL](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214806106_1675a1e5c2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYUh9p)
Turned over and the other side done
](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214806091_c383bb66f2_c.jpg)[/url]
I packed up at around five because it was getting too cold in my workshop, I hope to finish these bushes tomorrow.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2hYWKev)
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I finished milling the rebates in the other two edges of the bearings this afternoon.
in this picture they're lined up ready to have the rebate milled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219094652_ca00285b54_c.jpg)[/url]
Third edge done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219096617_60d731fb81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZjJ5d)
Fourth and final edge done
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49218393668_48a323ac4d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZjJE6)
The four Lower Motion Link Bushes to be unsoldered tomorrow after being marked as pairs. I hope they fit after all this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219096497_8bcfdfb28a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZg8Gh)
Andy
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Beautiful !
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Hi Andy, the new bearings look very nice: though the remaking is a bit of a bind there is that extra certainty about just what you are aiming for that renders it well worth the bother now and again. But I just wonder whether, having changed to brass, the other split bearings will be remade or whether it looks OK? ( I suppose that it's not necessarily un prototypical, it might have happened that way in maintenance of an engine over many years....) Dave
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In for lunch after unsoldering the four brass bearings.
Thanks Jeff, now I have to make several wedges and cotters, have you made those?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49222242826_4a3ff2a425_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZARV5)
Minimal heat,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49222242751_6dbff7eb41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZARV5)
The final results,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49222467222_424b994d62_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49221761918_d89164c963_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49222242716_085a9a4967_c.jpg)
Hi Dave, that's a fair observation. The SA660 bronze bearings are as they came out of the citric acid pickle hence the colour. I'll buff them up this afternoon and report back. I'd be reluctant to make them again.
I used rectangular brass bar because I kept losing the exact position of the soldered joint when I milled a circular bronze bar into a rectangular shape, that was just one fault with my approach.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2hZARTM)
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Hi Andy , I haven't been able to carry on with my Major Beam project .Jeff :-[
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Aesthetics - can I mix bronze and brass bushes ?
Earlier today Dave 'Chipswitheverything' asked whether it will look OK? - there was such a difference in the colour of the motion link bushes mainly because the bronze bushes hadn't been cleaned.
Here are pictures of the bushes after polishing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49223577676_8e1af702a7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZHGHJ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49223800607_12358c8b8d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZJQZn)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49223800577_729dbd4a10_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZJQYR)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49223094418_cfddefaf26_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hZFe4G)
The rectangular bushes are brass and they have a slightly lighter colour than the bronze which has a slight pink hue. The bronze is also harder to polish.
So, I reckon they look OK together at the moment, but in time perhaps tarnishing will show up the different materials used.
Andy
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The brass will darken with time, they wont look that different. Especially with a little grease/oil on them from running. I think they will be fine.
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Cheers Chris.
Andy
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The finished items with the wedges and cotters look really nice Andy. Certainly think that the bronze can be left , doubt that it will be noticeable when the engine is together and after a spot of oxidizing over time, , and the heads of the steel bearings hide some of the area of metal anyway. Good to have those bits dealt with! Dave
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I assembled the Parallel Motion for the first time today and the engine turned over without binding and without collisions which seemed remarkable. Each of the split bearings in the motion has required careful fitting as I progressed with the individual components and I have also spent a lot of time searching for bits that fell on the floor. Putting this lot together was awkward and some aspects had to be done in a particular order.
Along the way I found the piston hit the boss at the bottom of the cylinder when the crank was a few degrees before top dead centre. I couldn't find the error(s) so I decided to reduce the height of the cylinder boss by fifty thou which did the trick. The boss is wedge shaped to direct condensate towards a cylinder drain cock.
I am relieved to have got the engine to this stage - Phew!
Andy
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49429998883_4c077aa699_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiXEy4)
Here are some pictures of the Parallel Motion.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49429874623_93b273eab9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiXEy4)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49429874813_700e6fabf9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiX2BD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49429874778_ea6739fc5d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiX2EV)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49430353311_51f3514860_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiX2Ej) (https://flic.kr/p/2iiZtUT)
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Hey Andy - that engine is superb!
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Thanks Stuart :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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Beautiful !
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Hi Andy, this is a good stage to have got the Major to, starts to look like an engine and spurs one's interest on. Impressive! Looking at a few details, I would think that your plan is to drop a pointed rod through the hole drilled in the spring beam to ascertain where the threaded hole in the cylinder boss actually locates? That could be a good way to go, can't remember if I did it that way, but I did end up doing a bit of "remodelling" of the boss to even the shape up around the base diameter of the interconnecting strut. Built up one side of the boss just a little with epoxy keyed in with some tiny brass pins. Put some paint over it before anyone knew!
Also, it looks as if the con rod big end is at some distance from the crank, but presumably that is just the "fer instance" assembly to see the bits move?
As you did, I found assembly of the parallel motion and its many separate bits to be some game, and the tiny components are mostly too small to be very well marked as sets and for which way round they must go. After removing it all while the engine languishes during painting, I have kept the motion all together assembled to limit the chance of muddle and loss of bits. Dave
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Thanks Dave and Jeff,
Yes Dave my interest is spurred, I now find that the hole in the centre of the Entablature is directly above the centreline of the boss on the top of the cylinder so fitting the Entablature stay should be straightforward. I found that I had assembled the central column slightly skew whiff, I slackened the base and adjusted it accordingly. In this picture you can see a 3/16" rod dropped down through the Entablature.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49435359077_c4bc37a2b4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ijr8Xc)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49434730938_0d9a0e5cdf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ijr8Xc)
As you suspect the crank is still jury rigged, I have left it that way in case I need to move things about. The crank pin is just a plain 3/8" stub at the moment - yet another part waiting to be made properly. You might be able to see the crank wedged together with cigarette paper or ptfe tape in this picture.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49435358992_94c58800be_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ijnVed)
It should look like this,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49435285906_591e04d78a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ijr8VJ)
to be continued............
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2ijqLcC)
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Nice progress. :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks for the comment and extra pictures Andy, that all looks really nice, and the spot on central alignment of the spring beam hole and cylinder boss is an excellent testament to the alignment of the components that bring that about.
Though I have got away with the alignments on my engine, and it does look and behave OK, with hindsight ( and perhaps a less ridiculously protracted building period, er, 30 years....! ) I would have given great attention to the alignment implications of the component tolerances and the way in which one area of the engine can interact with other bits to give a snag. Dave
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Cheers Dave, yes, the slightest misalignment of the column is magnified many times over at the outboard ends of the beam. “ Building period, er 30 years”. - I bought my Stuart Major kit November 2013 but work kept being interrupted by building Alyn Foundry engines. There are four sets of Alyn Foundry castings waiting in my workshop!
I’ve got to speed up.
Andy
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I have replaced temporary wedges with fitted gibs and cotters that secure the three connecting rod bearings - big end and two fork end bearings. As the cotters were lightly tapped home pulling things together and closing the split bearings things lined up rather well. I was anticipating problems but fortunately the engine turns over smoothly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49488590037_b7de9fb388_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49488590077_53140f8e32_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49488590097_a4d7bbb79a_z.jpg)[/url]
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49488589987_2866c211a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ip8XFp)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49487885063_3820188cb0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ip8XDv)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2ip5m6D)
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Decided to start making the governor which looks like it will be a component demanding great care if it is to work. Can anyone say whether the Stuart Major governor is functional and controls the engine's speed?
I machined the governor bracket casting (part 129) first,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49581311747_20c6859812_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbAx)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544011848_c84734661e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbAx)
Andy
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544513891_be522e2938_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu31CQ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544011633_a2c4e0fa86_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu5zSK)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544513696_206393ac6f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu31z8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544513391_27b22d913e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu5zPo)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544513276_f7eaa8ba6a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu5zJ8)
I had to dismantle the engine to machine the bedplate flat where the bracket stands,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580999561_274bf42fbe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu5zG9)
Governor backet bolted down on the bedplate after sawing off the section between the casting's feet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49544738607_7b9ff2522d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixizN2)
I had been considering the Centrifugal Weights (Balls part 149) for some time, whether to make them using a ball turning tool or thread manufactured stainless balls if they weren't too hard to machine.I managed to source a pair of 7/8" Diameter AISI 304 Stainless Steel Grade 100 Ball Bearings from the Ball & Roller Store in Sheffield (ballandrollerstore.com).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49581311787_77b82b4f52_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iu6JFa)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580501823_147671e323_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbBe)
It was fairly easy to drill and thread these balls. Holding the ball in a three jaw chuck I gently rubbed a small flat using a file then drilled using a carbide spotting drill 3mm diameter - the tappng size for 4BA thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49581230777_abbd9d77bc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixg2Qk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580501743_ea6a86a025.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixjLwv)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580501723_712467853f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixg2NX)
The centrifugal weights / balls drilled and threaded 4BA,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580501693_eb9297de40.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixg2NB)
(https://flic.kr/p/2ixg2N6)
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Last week a friend loaned his bending rolls to me so I was able to fabricate the crank well part 111. I used 18 swg brass as per the plan and used silver solder to hold it together. The assembly is sufficiently robust without doubling up the thickness of the curved bottom section of the well as drawn which seems unnecessary to me.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49580582683_862f2b2996.jpg)[/url]
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49585013586_224f4a3e9b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixgrSt)
Crank well in position,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49585248907_b462c11cfd.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixEa2m)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49585013476_729860e1cf.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixFmYB)
I spent at least an hour cleaning and polishing the brass, it will probably be painted ultimately but there's little room for paint, the clearance between the crank and the well is very small.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2ixE9Zs)
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Well that's just beautiful. :D
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Looking Good...... :popcorn: :popcorn:
Willy
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Like that crank well a lot! Haven't got mine made yet, but ( don't laugh ) I made up some side pieces from plywood, well sealed with sanding sealer, on the excuse that it will end up painted later on.. May or may not proceed on that basis..
I found the configuration of the legs of the CI bracket casting for the governor and the fit intended on the bedplate was a bit unexplained, but have done the same as you have. I wasn't aware at the time of making the governor that the design cleverly allows the balls to clobber the near bits of the engine when they swing out to more than a moderate extent. I think that some builders have made the whole device taller to get round that, but the proportions might look a bit odd, it is quite a tall affair as it is.
Incidentally, after quite a lot of thought, and it dawning on me that the component is actually pretty small, ( dwgs are given X 2 as I recall )I made the "interesting" curved arm that screws on the tapered column from the solid, milled it around two sides of a bit of 1/2" thick BMS of about large matchbox size. Haven't got pictures, unfortunately, but an early operation was boring a tapered hole which formed the tapered inside curve of the foot of the lever, to match the column dia and taper … fun! Dave
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Hi Carl, Willy & Dave, thanks for looking in.
Willy I reckon governors are going to be hard work, but more so yours with those four arms with forked ends, I look forward to seeing how you tackle those.
Dave, a plywood crank well !! I have read warnings of the governor balls hitting the flywheel. Three years ago Alan 'Steamhead' wrote about the problem in replies 47 & 49 of this build log. Alan said he was building two Majors but he hasn't posted since 2016.
The "interesting curved arm", now that must be the Bell Crank Stay part 137.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49588594166_6d1e12274f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixYvpu)
Oh dear, I was hoping you'd have an easier method for that part. You have sent me a picture of your completed governor which looks superb so I'll have to follow your example.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2ixYvpu)
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Well that's just beautiful. :D
I'll second that!
:ThumbsUp:
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Hi Andy, yes the Bell Crank Stay is the thing in question, as per photo : I found some scrawled notes about procedure , but I think that I must have made some of it up as I went along...! Obviously there are other methods of working, silver soldering a curved foot on and suchlike, but then the bits have to be located, and I didn't greatly like the idea of a solder fillet being apparent. The "two sides of a block" method does allow the various holes to be set out in precise relationship and gives plenty of meat to hang on to while chewing away. I suppose that the full sized item would have been skillfully forged... Dave
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Dave your governor is terrific, the finish is like polished silverware, marvellous.
Andy
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Hello Andy, thanks for your very generous comment: I was not sure whether I should have put a picture on your blog, as it worried me, after doing so, that it might be seen as a bit cheeky to "invade", but as the topic is the governor, a picture saves a lot of words and could be of use.. But will happily delete it if preferred.
Re the components, I found the very top part, or cap, on which the two upper arms pivot was a bit of a game, because it needs cutting away internally to quite an extent to make room for the dia. of the bosses on the end of the arms. I slot drilled away as much as I could, but ( don't shout it..) I did give the bosses on the arms a bit of "relief" on the inside portion... You can't see it when the governor is assembled.
There might well be a better solution to giving room to the full meat size circular bosses, but without the dwgs. to hand just now I can't quite recall whether, for instance, taking a slot right the way through the item would be feasible. Dave
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Dave your contribution with pictures is most welcome and certainly encourages me. I would like to see as many pictures of your Stuart Major as possible, I need all the mentoring I can get!
We can all join in and help each other with these projects and spread good practice.
" the very top part, or cap " - You're referring to part 150 on this extract from the drawings below, something for me to look forward to.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596987667_37699a41a7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyHwv2)
I have practiced taper turning the entablature stay today and will machine the tapered governor pillar tomorrow. I'm working my way up....literally. I'll add some pictures of the entablature stay this evening after dinner.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2iyHwv2)
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The Entablature Stay as drawn is threaded 2BA top and bottom,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49597393382_5ef9b4c4b5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyKB77)Entablature stay (https://flic.kr/p/2iyKB77) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To make fitting and assembly easier I bored a 3/16 hole right the way through and used a long stud (allthread at the moment) to secure the stay.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596929647_b0bfc7412e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyHefF)S Major 0843 (https://flic.kr/p/2iyHefF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596180988_6e209d30dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyDoGL)S Major 0845 (https://flic.kr/p/2iyDoGL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596677576_e43665ceb7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyFWjC)S Major 0846 (https://flic.kr/p/2iyFWjC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596677541_dc2dc7ec4e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyFWj2)S Major 0847 (https://flic.kr/p/2iyFWj2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I ended the day by fitting a cylinder drain cock in the lower end of the cylinder = Stuart Turner Union Cock 5/32 x 40 thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49599308041_b71086e6bf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyVqgt)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2iyVqgt)
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Dave your contribution with pictures is most welcome and certainly encourages me. I would like to see as many pictures of your Stuart Major as possible, I need all the mentoring I can get!
We can all join in and help each other with these projects and spread good practice.
" the very top part, or cap " - You're referring to part 150 on this extract from the drawings below, something for me to look forward to.
I have practiced taper turning the entablature stay today and will machine the tapered governor pillar tomorrow. I'm working my way up....literally. I'll add some pictures of the entablature stay this evening after dinner.
Andy
Hi Andy.
We all have different ways of doing things....
Part number 150 could be made as a composite of 3 parts. The crossmember that carries the top pivots, I'm assuming it's square could be dropped into a milled slot in the vertical component? The top finial securing the whole assembly by using the 4 BA threaded hole.
I'm impressed by your workmanship on this particular model, the attention to detail etc. I would have given up a long time ago, way too complicated! :)
Cheers Graham.
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Hi Graham, yes I follow your suggested method and that is probably how I'll make it, soon I hope, cheers.
Today I machined the governor pillar part 133 using 303 Stainless Steel
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49581311747_20c6859812_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbAx)
I began with the bottom end of the pillar turning it down to 7/16" and cutting the 26tpi model engineer thread using the lathe to ensure the pillar will be truly vertical.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49601556212_2343f82c41_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbAx)S Major 0851 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz7Wz3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49601294151_ed13bab0fc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iz6AEK)S Major 0853 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz6AEK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then bored the 1/4" hole right through the centre and supported the job with a live centre for the rest of the machining. I calculated the taper to be approximately 0.6" per foot and set the lathe's taper turning attachment accordingly. It would be helpful if these plans would state the tapers to be used.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49601294046_d5fa23aa7f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iz6ACW)S Major 0855 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz6ACW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A form tool was made for the decorative rounded bands at each end and the job was polished with emery cloth before parting off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49601556112_2cb1a109b7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iz7Wxj)S Major 0856 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz7Wxj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here's a close up of the finished pillar,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49600793658_ac13e66f9e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iz42Ty)S Major 0860 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz42Ty) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The pillar screwed in to the governor bracket,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49601556017_745a64c365_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iz7WvF)S Major 0858 (https://flic.kr/p/2iz7WvF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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I had just enough time to fit bronze bearings in the governor bracket and pillar then machined the spindle to take the small bevel gear.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49611215416_1b9bbecd2d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2izYrV3)S Major 0865 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2izYrV3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49610697108_0e087f90c3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2izVMQG)S Major 0863 (https://flic.kr/p/2izVMQG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49611471182_f89d422874_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2izZKWN)S Major 0864 (https://flic.kr/p/2izZKWN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Very nicely done Andy! :ThumbsUp:
John
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Thank you John,
I reckon the rest of the governor will be more demanding.
Andy
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Coming on very nicely Andy, and should mention that I do like those rather fine oil pots on the main bearing caps, think that I still have a few things like that to make up when the engine is, one fine day, done with in the paint shop. Dave
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Hello Dave, the oil pots were purchased from the 21st Century Steam Company. They sell them on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drip-feed-oilers/293011510783
Andy
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More pictures of governor parts, first the sleeve part 135 which I machined in one piece from a mild steel bar.
The drawing,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49596987657_be6f032bd3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iyHwuR)Governor part 135 (https://flic.kr/p/2iyHwuR) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Starting in the lathe I drilled the 3/16 hole through the centre before machining the profile,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49648715328_11a720d3d0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDkf)S Major 0866 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDkf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649529497_43115f149e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPmD)S Major 0867 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPmD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649529447_1f1bbf5010_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPkM)S Major 0868 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPkM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250841_9ea71a108f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkowe)S Major 0869 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkowe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
This larger diameter to become the two lugs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649529422_c0c1d57ebf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPkm)S Major 0870 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPkm) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then in a dividing head mounted on a vertical miller to machine the two lugs to the desired thickness = 3/16"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250796_252c8bb5ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkovs)S Major 0873 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkovs) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250751_b2c284b67c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkouF)S Major 0875 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkouF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Next, milling a 3/32 slot in each lug
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49648715113_23520b045d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDgx)S Major 0880 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDgx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After some filing the governor pillar is back in the lathe for parting off
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250101_30eaabca2a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkoit)S Major 0881 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkoit) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Functional but the lugs still need a fair amount of tidying up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250526_3e2c0eeb1c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkoqN)S Major 0883 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkoqN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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That is looking great, Andy. It did occur to me, after we had had some discussion, that the forming of the lugs and area around them could be done OK with the dividing head kept horizontal as you have done, and I'm not entirely certain whether I did do it with the head vertical or not! May have used your configuration with an endmill with the corners radiused to sweep the lug sides into the circular shaft section. At least these bits are quite interesting to do, having formulated a method one feels quite keen to give it a go! Dave
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Thanks Dave, I was hoping to complete the 'Weight Carrier' - the bit on top of the governor this afternoon but a visitor interrupted the work flow.
Meanwhile, here's a link to a splendid Stuart Major in Dreweatts 7th April 2020 auction called 'The Transport Sale'. The engine builder was Alan Hall, East Budleigh 2015 so I think that must be 'Steamhead' reply 49 et seq in this thread.
https://bid.dreweatts.com/m/lot-details/index/catalog/993/lot/57085?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F993%3Fpage%3D2
There are several interesting engines in the sale, I'll have to be content with just studying the pictures.
Andy
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Thanks for link to the excellent Major at auction, beautifully presented as well as engineered. Be nice to find that it had rather exceeded the 2 to 3 K estimate. Considering the £1000+ starting cost of the castings and the many hundreds of hours of highly skilful work, the value given to much model engineering endeavour is at times depressingly low. That price level would not buy anything very remarkable in the auction world of paintings and artwork... Dave
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Considering the £1000+ starting cost of the castings and the many hundreds of hours of highly skilful work, the value given to much model engineering endeavour is at times depressingly low.
It really is a shame, a burden we carry. Clearly makes the statement that the world does 'get' what we do. If we were in it for money, we'd learn to paint (artists worldwide just fell of their chairs laughing)
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Hi Andy, well , actually, I have sold some paintings and drawings that I have done over the years!, it's a hobby that I have always enjoyed along with a few other interests outside of the model engineering. But it hasn't made my fortune any more than the model making! , though the hourly rate has probably been some bit better. No, I think we get our reward from the absorbing interest and the satisfaction of having a workshop to enjoy pottering in... Dave
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Some more governor parts, the spindle and weight carrier,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49659355251_37e6683c29_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEebdc)Governor spindle and weight carrier (https://flic.kr/p/2iEebdc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The spindle was straightforward, it required a short 1/16" wide keyway and a 10ba screw to lock the bevel gear onto the spindle. The closest I could get to 1/16" was a 1mm Proxxon HSS slitting saw which I mounted in a three jaw chuck and held the 3/16" diameter spindle at the appropriate height in a quick change toolpost. The brass key is a rough and ready temporary measure.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49648714803_cf06900140.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDbc)S Major 0903 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDbc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649528687_1c2a8f7435.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmP7F)S Major 0889 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmP7F) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49648714898_20520d3969.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDcQ)S Major 0892 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDhDcQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649250381_f822b822e6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkooi)S Major 0901 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDkooi) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649528662_9c42906eb7.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmP7f)S Major 0904 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmP7f) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49649528857_528967b315.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPaB)S Major 0905 (https://flic.kr/p/2iDmPaB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next part is called the weight carrier (part 150). Following the same approach used earlier for the governor sleeve (part 135) I started by machining the embryonic shape using a lathe then transferred it to a dividing head on my vertical miller and proceeded to carve or hack the shape,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49658795903_de2b562894.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEbiWg)S Major 0909 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEbiWg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Hacksaw used to remove some of the excess material.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49659613857_fb52460f95_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEfv5V)S Major 0911 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEfv5V) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49659613787_d59a2071c9_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEfv4H)S Major 0913 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEfv4H) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49658795663_a5f0da4626_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEbiS8)S Major 0917 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEbiS8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling 3/32 slots in the lugs that will carry the weight arms.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49659337381_9ca71c8d10_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEe5U6)S Major 0921 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEe5U6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Progress by the end of this afternoon.....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49659337356_35964a19fd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEe5TE)S Major 0925[//url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/]Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2iEe5TE), on Flickr
It looks rough at the moment particularly around the lugs but I think it will clean up and look presentable tomorrow. If I can get it to look half as good as Dave's (Chipswitheverything) and the ST Major in Dreweatts auction I'll be happy, they are the benchmarks.
Still thinking over how to make the remaining parts of the governor, making something that functions is fine but I find achieving the form and finish daunting.
Andy
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Some more work on the weight carrier this afternoon, mostly filing and polishing with emery cloth. The carrier is supposed to be made in one piece with the ball or finial being an integral part. However, I felt that the thin lugs looked vulnerable in close proximity to my ball turning tool so I machined the ball and attached it using a 6BA stud.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49663045477_1e06420a3d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEy6bM)S Major 0927 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEy6bM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49662224278_8fafc0b4db.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEtT5b)S Major 0929 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEtT5b) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49662762751_398ec5a7e2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iEwD9c)S Major 0930 (https://flic.kr/p/2iEwD9c) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A lot more polishing is required to bring it up to standard.
Andy
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This afternoon I started work on the weight carriers, the two sculpted arms that the flyweights swing on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49581311787_77b82b4f52.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbBe)Governor parts 149 & 149 (https://flic.kr/p/2ixkbBe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I decided to use 1/4" square mild steel bar and commenced by machining and cutting 4BA threads on the ends. Here they are ready for marking,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49668844373_87655cd344.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iF4NZK)S Major 0932 (https://flic.kr/p/2iF4NZK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
and with the flyweights or balls fitted,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49669387136_9fbf7536b7.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iF7AkJ)S Major 0934 (https://flic.kr/p/2iF7AkJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After drilling the 5/64" pivot holes my next stage was to reduce the thickness to 3/32". I didn't have the appropriate parallels/packing to achieve the desired height in my milling machine vice but was able to set up the two carriers in my shaping machine,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49670386542_2463a87cda.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iFcHqS)S Major 0934A (https://flic.kr/p/2iFcHqS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49669435508_e47246a093.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iF7QHJ)S Major 0936 (https://flic.kr/p/2iF7QHJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49670264802_166566825b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iFc6eU)S Major 0939 (https://flic.kr/p/2iFc6eU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next picture shows the first pass. The downfeed is not calibrated so in addition to the scribed lines I have positioned the job to enable measurement of the thickness to check progress. I'll turn the pieces over to take the same amout off the other side.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49670264827_1f52121f14.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iFc6fk)S Major 0935 (https://flic.kr/p/2iFc6fk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A little shaper action which we don't see much of on MEM, click on the picture to see the video,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49669578278_76457e9c96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iF8zah)IMG_1071 (https://flic.kr/p/2iF8zah) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At the moment I think I'll use the lathe to machine the bosses around the 5/64 holes by mounting the carriers on a faceplate followed by filing to finish. They are well over length to give me something to hold on to.
Andy
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Coming on very nicely , good to see the shaper playing a part, as you say, not so common in workshops. I fancy one, but workshop room has said otherwise. I did the raised bosses using the small GHT rotary table that can be rotated rapidly by hand lever. They are fiddling details, it has to be said. I suppose one might just get away with supergluing washers to either side of a flat surface! , but then there is the guilt every time you look at it...! Dave
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"Supergluing washers to either side of a flat surface!" gosh Dave that is really devious thinking up such a dodge but you resisted temptation. I could also use a rotary table as you did when the time comes.
I have been distracted from the S T Major project today. Thinking of bread shortages I baked bread in an old bread making machine that we haven't used for years. It worked well and produced an excellent wholemeal loaf in 3.5 hours. Unfortunately our local supermarket has sold out of yeast and flour, drat!
Something only slightly more interesting...............my Alba shaper in top gear!
Click on the image to open the video in Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49673629397_91948b4dc8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iFukqa)S Major 0940 (https://flic.kr/p/2iFukqa) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
It can produce a pretty good surface.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49673620087_305d4c4f26_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iFuhDD)S Major 0941 (https://flic.kr/p/2iFuhDD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Watching that shaper pressing on is almost as good as seeing the outside motion of a steam loco in action! It has that sort of Victorian "all done by levers" approach to mechanical engineering that one doesn't really get from a milling machine. Excellent! Dave
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The " Planer " or " Shaper " machines played a huge role in the early days of engineering.
All the early crankshafts that were made at Gardner's and Robinson's used them, hacked out of solid Steel plate.
During my days at Chester UK I was sent up to look at one of our massive radial arm drills that had broken down. I watched, in amazement at an operator literally sitting in the cab of a planing machine trimming down the welded section of a railway line. The planings were thicker than the material Andy is using at present moment.
They are very capable machines and can remove masses of material in a single swipe.
Cheers Graham.
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Hi Graham and Dave
I do enjoy using my Alba shaper but for many jobs it’s much slower than a milling machine, that doesn't bother me. If it is used for deeper cuts you really have to watch out for metal chips flying away from the machine. A friend has a much larger Elliott shaper, when it’s working hard you have to use a fair sized shield in front of it as the hot chips fly off with some force.
Andy
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After the shaping session the two carriers were at this stage - the flat area being 3/32" thick
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680511362_0bd5e331a5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6BbJ)S Major 0942 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6BbJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
My next task was to create the raised bosses by milling away the surrounding material. Mounted on a small rotary table I used a 1/4" end mill for the job taking about 20 thou off each side,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49679688888_5553a779c3.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG2oG9)S Major 0943 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG2oG9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680511342_ec8faa3f1d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6Bbo)S Major 0947 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6Bbo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680220661_e179d9bce0.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG57LD)S Major 0956 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG57LD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After sawing off the excess length followed by a lot of filing here they are on the engine, temporarily held by 10ba screws. The last picture shows how the balls will 'clobber the flywheel' which is why I delayed finishing the crankshaft. I could make a longer shaft to move the flywheel out of range.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680511297_03b9ac7935.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6BaB)S Major 0960 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG6BaB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49679688493_95d8df6cef.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iG2ozk)S Major 0962 (https://flic.kr/p/2iG2ozk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Not exactly as per the profile in the drawings but not far off, I may do a bit more contouring when there's nothing better to do.
Andy
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The next two parts to be made are called weight links, part number 146,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704480683_49869521ba.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJdsqT)Governor Weight links and thrust collar (https://flic.kr/p/2iJdsqT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I milled one side of 1/4" square bar to reduce it to 3/16" thickness then used a 3/32" slitting saw to cut the slot in the end.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704993516_479fecce35.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJg5SQ)S Major 0963 (https://flic.kr/p/2iJg5SQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Followed by mounting the job on a rotary table and milling to leave the raised boss at one end,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704993466_f05bf60745.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJg5RY)S Major 0965 (https://flic.kr/p/2iJg5RY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Ready for filing,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704461643_6d90ee6bac.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJdmLB)S Major 0970 (https://flic.kr/p/2iJdmLB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here are the two links fitted,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49705311532_570bc2ee71.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJhHpS)S Major 09631 (https://flic.kr/p/2iJhHpS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The governor so far, lots of buffing and polishing required,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49705311427_1087064024.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iJhHo4)S Major 09630 (https://flic.kr/p/2iJhHo4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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The next part of the governor to be made was the Bell Crank Stay which I approached with apprehension,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49714228282_135736790e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5q3W)Governor part 137 Bell Crank Stay (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5q3W) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I made a start by turning part of a steel bar down to 17/16" diameter then heating and bending the end of a 1/2" x 1/4" steel strip round it to achieve the specified 17/32" radius bend,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713375713_1ce81ba161_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13Bt)S Major 09633 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13Bt) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49714232572_7c57793f72.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5rjU)S Major 09634 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5rjU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The steel strip was then mounted in a quick change tool holder, adjusted to the appropriate height so that a 7/16" milling cutter mounted in the lathe chuck could be used mill the mounting flange to 7/32" radius to fit the 7/16" diameter governor column which is also tapered so I knew I would have to file the flange to get it to fit properly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713376023_33bd3fc851.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13GP)S Major 09636 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13GP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49714232472_ccd04c804a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5rib)S Major 09638 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK5rib) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then the stay was marked up and the miller used to reduce the thickness of the stay to 5/32"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713375913_6d57411448_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13EV)S Major 09640 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13EV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713375673_5e4c92663b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13AM)S Major 09642 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13AM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Also milled the 3/32" slot while I had the parent steel strip to hold the job
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713915891_a2d82cf63c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK3PbT)S Major 09643 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK3PbT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49713375738_2c90e202fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13BU)S Major 09649 (https://flic.kr/p/2iK13BU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At this stage I machined a shoulder on the end of a bar so that the job could be held by tightening a sliding collar which tightly gripped the 7/32" radius flange. As well as a means to hold the job it was used a a filing button to form the outer radius of the flange which by now was about 5/54" thick.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728064178_1f3048c1d5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijYS)S Major 0999 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijYS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Filing buttons for the other end,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728063928_e6c06e7825_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijUy)S Major 1001 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijUy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Getting there,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728928387_80768589eb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKT2)S Major 1003 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKT2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728928357_4a238d912c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKSv)S Major 1004 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKSv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728928267_8d7714134b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKQX)S Major 1007 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKQX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The stay is attached to the governor column with two 10ba bolts - I was thinking perhaps my decision to use stainless steel for the column wasn't a smart move - thinking of cutting 10ba threads but all went well.
After marking up the position of the holes for the bolts the arm was held by my jig in a dividing head, I chose to position the bolts at 35 degrees either side of the centre line. Drilled and tapped the first hole, secured to the column with one bolt and a small toolmakers clamp before drilling the second hole.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728928162_119c1528d6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKP9)S Major 1008 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnKP9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728612491_6d9f31ab5e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLm8Yx)S Major 1010 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLm8Yx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At last, the stay attached to the column,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728612481_76c4fec80b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLm8Yn)S Major 1011 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLm8Yn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728063843_7d4f1b6190_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijT6)S Major 1012 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLijT6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The last part no 136 'Governor Bell Crank' looks rather awkward to make in one piece, any suggestions?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49729128212_1e6996d93d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLoMhh)Governor parts 136 &138 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLoMhh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
-
I would be tempted to make most of the arm out of a piece of plate then silver solder the fork on the end.
Jo
P.S. I still think the Major Beam is a desirable engine/set of castings :-X
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I don't think it would be any harder to do from 3/8" flat bar than two bits, the only real difference is that you have a bit more waste material unless the basic shape is bent from 1/4 x 3/8 stock
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Good going on the governor bits! I think that I made the bell crank by milling , such as could be done, around the two sides of a 3/8" thick BMS block and then sawing away and trimming the inside shape. I didn't bend the curve, just filed it . Probably didn't cut it away from the parent block entirely until the last stages. There isn't much waste to worry about as the whole thing is quite small. Dave
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Thanks for the input Jo, Jason and Dave. I've been reducing the thickness of a piece of 2" x 5/8" thick steel strip in my milling machine this afternoon ready for marking out tomorrow to follow Dave's method. If I can't get that right I'll try the other methods.
Andy
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Some pictures of the bell crank taking shape.
Started by reducing the end of a piece of 2" x 5/8" steel bar to 1/2" thickness then scribed the outline of the bell crank. Set up at the 102 degree crank angle in the milling vice and milled the top of the forked arm. The holes in the steel were from some previous task.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739070441_a5bbf1a2c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgJL2)S Major 1013 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgJL2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
1/8" hole drilled for the pivot then used a slot drill to mill the fork,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739393997_5c632e0b94_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMioWz)S Major 1014 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMioWz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49742799233_9afedfeea3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMARcx)S Major 1016 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMARcx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Respositioned to mill the embryonic arm down to 3/32" thickness,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49742799213_67cc538a98_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMARcc)S Major 1017 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMARcc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743669247_4f773fb77b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMFiPM)S Major 1019 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMFiPM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743669197_0d4669bf14_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMFiNV)S Major 1020 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMFiNV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At this stage I need to mark out the crank again and do as much shaping as possible before removing it from the parent bar.....tomorrow.
Andy
Andy
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Pleased to see your photos of this interesting but awkward little item : apart from other model engineers and machinists, who would ever guess what a lot of work and chewing away this small finished component actually entailed? I suppose that the actual thing would have been forged, and probably been left with a more workaday appearance than the miniature version? Dave
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Hi Dave, bell crank done bar a little more filing and polishing,
Using a Kennedy Number 60 power hacksaw to separate the bell crank from the 2" wide parent bar which is the limit for this machine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747672862_11a612017d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PXC)S Major 1021 (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PXC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Fifteen minutes later.... - click on the picture to start the video of the saw in action,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49747673222_80e20db60a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2Q4Q)S Major 1022 (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2Q4Q) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Which gave me this from which to extricate the bell crank,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746804178_620b4895ac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXnJj)S Major 1024 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXnJj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746804218_48fb682f4f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXnK1)S Major 1023 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXnK1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
It took me about three hours of filing and grinding to get to this stage,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747672172_7e6a1fda43_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PKJ)S Major 1028 (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PKJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747672797_2f30bfbd88_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PWv)S Major 1027 (https://flic.kr/p/2iN2PWv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746803588_d504562236_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXny9)S Major 1026 (https://flic.kr/p/2iMXny9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I haven't made any of the proper pivots yet (used 10BA screws as a temporary measure) and there are a couple of minor details outstanding. However, the governor does work.
Andy
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:ThumbsUp:
Real nice Andy! Turned out very well!
John
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That looks rather nice :)
I haven't made any of the proper pivots yet (used 10BA screws as a temporary measure)
At least they are not something small and fiddly :lolb:
Jo
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like the way you made that leaver looks good
John
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Good morning and thanks for looking in, it was a relief to finish that part. I must credit my mentor Chipswitheverything for the method used, thanks Dave.
Jo, yes fiddly little bits today.
Andy
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Excellent progress and result Andy, the governor looks great and you have an intriguing new toy to add to the engine and to feel very pleased with! Dave
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Hi Andy, this governor looks really great.
A masterpiece.
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Kind of you to say that Achim.
I'm following your superb Bruce Macbeth Engine build.
Andy
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Hi Andy,
I have not been following this thread. My loss.
Masterful machining and presentation! :ThumbsUp:
You must be very prould of machining and assembling these wonderful little parts of the engine in themselves.
Works of art!
Cheers...John
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I have resumed work on my Stuart Major after a three month break partly due to working on an Alyn Foundry I. F. Allman engine. I'm working on the slide valve but there is a problem, the valve rod as drawn can't be fitted inside the valve / steam chest because it is too long. Fortunately some months ago Dave'Chipswitheverything' forewarned me and set out the solution he had used.
Extracts from the drawings,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50075688113_b8d0666fbd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji1ZsZ)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jiJy9i](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083797633_c335e73a11_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji1ZsZ)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jiJEys](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083819218_9fe9a32fea.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJy9i)
Slide valve casting
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2ji6ctJ](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50076508972_a4678d8e8b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJEys)Slide valve (https://flic.kr/p/2ji6ctJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The casting was large enough have a socket milled to accommodate the end of the valve rod and dispense with the 1/8" steel plate held on by 2BA screws shown in the drawings.
Milling the slide valve,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50076256591_b003c58d37.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji4Usk)Slide valve (https://flic.kr/p/2ji4Usk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50076256566_6521e22992.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji4UrU)Slide valve (https://flic.kr/p/2ji4UrU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50075690008_ecedb625d1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji212E)Slide valve (https://flic.kr/p/2ji212E) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50076508817_20d8140b86.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ji6cr4)Slide valve (https://flic.kr/p/2ji6cr4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The valve rod, instead of 9/64" I used 4mm diameter stainless threaded 5BA on the outward end and a stainless steel lug silver soldered on to drive the slide valve.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084518902_bfca7f53b8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNfxY)Valve rod (https://flic.kr/p/2jiNfxY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084282611_7324f3b83b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiM3iZ)Slide valve and valve rod (https://flic.kr/p/2jiM3iZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
These two pictures demonstrate the problem,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50084282516_fc56851224.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiM3hm)Slide valve, valve rod and valve chest. (https://flic.kr/p/2jiM3hm) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50083698938_f039466052.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJ3NE)Slide valve, valve rod and valve chest. (https://flic.kr/p/2jiJ3NE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
How is the builder supposed to fit the valve rod inside the steam chest?
The solution is to bore and thread a large say 7/16" hole in the bottom of the chest so that the valve rod can be passed through the hole which can be sealed with a threaded plug. That's what I'll do tomorrow.
Andy
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Thank you for that insight. A great help!
John
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The other option would be to make the valve rod in two parts, drill and thread the plain shank to take a longer threaded section rather than have it all one length. Your rod looks to be longer than drawing, I make it that the unthreaded length is 1.657 which will fit into the 1.813 cavity.
That way you can fit the rod, push it up through the hole and screw in the threaded part, could even just do a plain hole and loctite the two together but you won't get it apart easily if needed.
If you do go for the plug option it would be worth making that to take a drain cock so you can get any condensate out of the valve chest if you are going to run on steam.
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Yes Jason the threaded section of my rod is considerably longer than specified because it came in handy having been a test piece when I set up a small Coventry Diehead to cut 5BA threads for my Allman exhaust valve rod. I’ll trim it to the required length eventually.
As I intend to run the engine on steam it also occurred to me that a drain cock would be useful beneath the steam chest.
Andy
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A wee " T " nut ?? ;)
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Yes Graham that was always a possibility too :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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To complete the valve chest I bored and threaded a 7/16" x 26 tpi hole in the bottom of the chest. The lug on the end of the valve rod was ground down until it would pass through the 7/16 as the threaded end went through the gland at the top of the valve chest.
A brass bush 7/16" x 26 tpi was made with a 3/16" x40 tpi internal thread to fit a union cock for draining the valve chest.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50086656798_1273f963d2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiZd5f)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50087241431_ab6d0603a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jiZd5f)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50086656738_9e07a86b9f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jj3cS8)
The slide valve will require an hour or more lapping to produce an acceptable finish on the port face.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2jiZd4d)
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Excellent!
John
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Hello John, pleased we have another ST Major builder, I must get a move on.
Andy
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No Hurry!
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:ThumbsUp:
Nice solution!
John
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Hi Andy, pleased to see nice progress on the beam engine again, and the drain cock in the plug on the s' chest is a nice refinement, which ( if I ever get back in my workshop, still curtailed in that after so long ), I can think of adding. Dave
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Hi Dave, sorry to hear you're unable to return to your workshop.
I have been working on the eccentric strap which is a gunmetal casting, here's an extract from the drawings,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098235316_d307fa5402_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jk1xXS)
I decided to start by milling and filing the casting in order to mark out the positions of the two 5BA clearance then drilled the holes 0.125" to be a snug fit for the 5BA screw. I then sawed the casting in half and milled the joining surfaces flat. The hole in the centre of the casting has a generous allowance for sawing and truing up the faces. Quite a bit has to be milled off to create a circular hole.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50097634098_a1c3bdaf1c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jk1xXS)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50097634233_ec28a2f91b_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjXtf3)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50097634083_9b277d30d0_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjXthn)
The two halves were fastened together ready for machining,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50097634213_804d27ed1a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjXteM)
To bore out the centre I made a jig holding the casting with four 4BA screws plus nuts and washers crude and possibly dodgy but it worked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098444652_8aae637a5d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jjXth2)
So far so good.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098444792_994fa33e15.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jk2Cc7)
Then mounted on a snug or mandrel so that the sides could be machined to reduce the thickness of the strap to 19/64".
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098444767_16151a6544.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jk2Cew)
The eccentric strap at the close of play today,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098444737_c39cc08165.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jk2Ce6)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2jk2Cdz)
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Lovely job.
John
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Hi Andy, that's coming on well. Seem to remember putting the strap on the little GHT rotary table to do the outside profile, also running a bullnose slot drill along the sheave side of the boss to blend the two shapes together.
Don't know if John, who is chewing over the prospective work on his Major, happens to have caught up with the forum write up that I did on my engine?, ( albeit still awaiting the finishing stages even now ) - my pics and write up are in my posts starting in March 2016. Dave
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SNIP
Don't know if John, who is chewing over the prospective work on his Major, happens to have caught up with the forum write up that I did on my engine?, ( albeit still awaiting the finishing stages even now ) - my pics and write up are in my posts starting in March 2016. Dave
Hi Dave
Who's Beam Engine? Chips with everything or Chipmaster? :headscratch:
I'm confused... :help:
John
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John, my engine write up is on my own, Chipswitheverything forum posts. Engine as per photo, but has been dismantled for a long time and still in the stage of rubbed down priming coats, and will need a proper base and plinth made too. Disappointed that it is not by now a finished engine, but circumstances have made a long break from the workshop incumbent. Dave
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Hi Dave, and thanks for that. I'll stay in touch.
Regards
John
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Dave, your engine is stunning.
The patina or " special " coating that's developed gives it the perfect look in my opinion.
Each to their own I suppose.... :)
Cheers Graham.
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To tidy up the eccentric strap I milled the lugs and boss for the lubricator down to the same depth as the ring,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109293512_0dcb8df0b2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkZebq)
Then used a dividing head to rotate the edge of the strap under an end mill,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109053901_b8fc67ef79.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkZebq)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109053801_919c32c46e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkXZXc)
Drilled and threaded the hole for the lubricator then gave the job a polish,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109053836_b60389f774.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkXZVt)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50108484308_686f8efd6b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkXZW5)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50109053731_903f7eb7a8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jkV5CC)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2jkXZUg)
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As with all of the build parts...very tidy indeed Andy ...... :ThumbsUp:
1. will you keep the 5BA round head slotted screws for the eccentric strap?, or go to a hex head bolts?......
2. do you wait, then drill and ream for the 5/64"tapered pin with the rod installed?
Just not a fan :facepalm: of slotted head screws
Derek
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That looks nice Andy. NB that the Stuart length dimension for the fish bellied eccentric rod is completely wrong!!, best to work it out from an eventual lash up from the engine itself as I did.
Thanks for kind comment Graham, the mostly assembled engine did look quite interesting in the bare metal, but there is always that niggle that one hasn't really contended with finishing it. There was a glorious cup winning Major Beam model some years ago at the Sandown exhibition, finished in mid green, which definitely made me feel that painting had to be contended with. Though as I have used green for my Stuart No 1, I thought I'd have a change and try a deep red for the beam engine, with the baseplate black. Dave
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Thanks for the feedback Derek.
Answering your questions,
1. I could do this :o,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50113002346_9435169f28.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmjeFQ)
or this :ThumbsDown:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50112428128_76fa90034d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmjeFQ)
No, I reckon this will do :cartwheel:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50112428093_44353a4414.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmghZw)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50113232082_b5a71fc0f3.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmghYV)
The slotted head brass screws were a temporary measure.
2. I intend to drill and ream for the 5/64"tapered pin with the rod installed.
Mind you I haven't got on with small 1/16" taper pin reamers in steel recently. A cheap one didn't seem to be doing anything then broke in the hole so I bought an expensive version and that didn't seem to be up to much either, hardly any cutting going on unlike my selection of larger taper pin reamers. Perhaps I was just unlucky. I can see a dose of Loctite 638 being used to supplement the taper pin.
Cheers
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2jmkpYN)
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The eccentric was machined from a short length of cast iron bar, end machined flat then marked out for 7/32" off centre, offset in a four jaw chuck and bored out to 3/4" to fit on the crankshaft.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50117072667_141e522691.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmF6DM)Eccentric sheave (https://flic.kr/p/2jmF6DM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50112428083_317311ac11.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmghYK)S Major 1109 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmghYK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I made the hub wider than the drawing thinking that an accessible grub screw in here might be convenient for initial setting of the timing later on, saves having to remove the eccentric strap to reach the 2BA screw hidden inside the eccentric that holds it in position - the 2BA grub screw can be tightened when I'm happy with the settings. There appears to be enough vacant space on the crankshaft beneath the governor for a wider hub.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50113232032_53846da611.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmkpXW)S Major 1113 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmkpXW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Job held in a three jaw chuck to machine the eccentic using a parting tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50116494347_dff7a4f53f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmC8JK)S Major 1114 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmC8JK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50116270206_911e2ea5b2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmAZ7f)S Major 1116 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmAZ7f) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To separate the eccentric I used the parting tool to go part way then finished off with a hacksaw just because I was in a cautious mood.
Finishing the reverse side of the eccentric.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50115699533_e2af9965f2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmy4t4)S Major 1119 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmy4t4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Strap fitted to the eccentric,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50116270011_0961e8a5c0.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmAZ3T)S Major 1123 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmAZ3T) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Shown on a spare piece of 3/4" bar,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50116494177_38488dd2dd.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmC8FP)S Major 1121 (https://flic.kr/p/2jmC8FP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Andy.....yes those HH bolts look better :ThumbsUp:......with respect to the rod.....what material do you plan?.....AISI 304 machines relatively well....Silver Steel can be problematic....in the big picture, the loading on the rod will be low...would you consider hardened Brass bar?
After a lifetime of using or directing the use of ROCOL synthetic cutting/machining products, I recently complained to a steam colleague in my breaking an M2 Taper tap in a 1.5 diameter tapping hole size in an unknown grade of Stainless whilst using ROCOL tapping paste
His advice was try Rapid Tap......an American product which I understand contains animal fats .........I have since used this when M2 tapping without issue
The bronze in the eccentric strap may be as hard/tough as Grade 304 material........gentle hand rotation + a good cutting agent/fluid for the 5/64" taper reamer should be fine
[I shudder when hearing of crank shaft webs being joined to the journals by C-Lok pins :hammerbash:.......]
Derek
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Hello Derek,
the fish bellied eccentric rod would probably be made from EN1A but if AISI 304 is available I'll give it a try. However, it will be a while before I need to make the eccentric rod because of the drawings it is said,
"..... the Stuart length dimension for the fish bellied eccentric rod is completely wrong!!"
I will take heed of the warning and as Dave 'Chipswitheverything' suggests, "work it out from an eventual lash up from the engine itself." I'm just starting work on the cylinder end of the valve train in particular the bronze valve shaft bearings.
My cutting compound of choice has always been Trefolex, I like its smell and I have a large tin of it to use up. Recently I was given a bottle of CT-90 and have been satisfied with the results.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50137903558_c72b91d50b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jovRX5)
Regarding crank shaft webs being joined to the journals by C-Lok pins, I don't know what a C-Lok pin is, I'm a self taught amateur. The closest I could get with Google was "C-lok is a simple diverless subsea structural connector".
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2jovRX5)
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Derek your hole sounds a bit tight, for metric I usually go by diameter less pitch so 2 - 0.4 = 1.6mm tapping size.
I also use CCT-90 as unlike the thicker Trefolex it does not retain swarf in the bottom of blind holes
Andy I'll let you off not using fitted bolts with "D" shaped heads and a flat machined into the strap to stop them rotating ;)
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Oooh Jason you're picky, I'll just have to make do with a spanner to stop the bolt rotating when I tighten my nuts up.
CT-90 also available in aerosols - which sounds good and to make it more exciting they call it 'Action Can'
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50141781876_1d0cc29e7a_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2joRJQC)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2joRJQC)
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Don't fancy trying that top left illustration, could be the last you see of your finger let alone the plastic tube :o
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....while Andy is remaking the fitted bolts with their D shaped heads, just a reminder that the fitted shanks of the bolts ought properly to be relieved over a longish portion of their plain length with three tiny flutes, so that the cross sectional area is equal to the core diameter of the bottom of the threaded portion, this so as to reduce the chance of fracture at the thread root after many repetitions of stretching with the reversing motion. ( Stretching is not then concentrated so much just at the weakest area ). I'm not prepared to say whether or not I did this on the bolts fitted to my own engine....!! ( I tend to think of D shaped heads as later practice, maybe marine use, would they ever have appeared on a beam engine of this mid 19th C date ? ) Dave
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Thanks Dave, I'm wondering whether I'll ever finish the eccentric strap.
Looking ahead to the valve levers,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50148357442_f8d8f65156.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jprrws)Valve Lever (https://flic.kr/p/2jprrws) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The drawing suggests they are "Brazed to shaft", here's a picture of your valve levers,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50147617598_3b9f1a7ebf_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jpnDAw)Valve levers on shaft (https://flic.kr/p/2jpnDAw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Did you solder your valve levers to the valve shaft?
I presume it is a precaution in case a taper pin came adrift. The momentum from the 14" flywheel could potentially bend or break things should the valve levers cease to operate in unison. Do you or other members, particularly any Stuart Major builders have an opinion?
Andy
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Hi Andy, have just dug my assembly as per the photo out of its place of hiding!, and I have taper pinned the levers. I don't recall the brazing instruction, maybe not on my set of dwgs?, but I wouldn't fancy doing that anyway. I seem to recall that this was another instance where I disregarded Stuart's dimensions for the location along the shaft, and worked things out from the engine itself in a lash up - just as well, as I believe there was some variation, and I think that the position of the hand lever at the end similarly needed a rethink. The datum for that is related to the position along the crankshaft of your eccentric and sheave and lining up the latching pin of course. My photos of drilling the taper pin holes using the GHT Fingerplate may show that the levers were set up along the shaft with the help of that to jig it all up, maintaining the worked out positions. A drop of Loctite on t' pins and or shaft would give the extra security when ( when! ) final assembly takes place. Dave
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Thanks for your input Dave, I have finished the eccentric strap and spent time working on the pair of valve shaft bearings and caps.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138548252_0c5f0ec57a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jozaAu)Valve Shaft Bearing and Cap (https://flic.kr/p/2jozaAu) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
These are gunmetal castings, after fettling and marking out I drilled the 5BA clearance holes in the feet then drilled and tapped the 8BA holes for the studs that will hold the caps. The castings were then mounted on a 1/2" square bar so that they could be held in the lathe's toolpost which was clocked to ensure it was at right angles to the lathe spindle. A 6" x 1/32" slitting saw was used to separate the caps.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138552067_24b1298120.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbJg)S Major 1140 (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbJg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138315851_126f471f19.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2joxYvz)S Major 1130 (https://flic.kr/p/2joxYvz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138316056_7f1ee466fb_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2joxYz7)S Major 1133 (https://flic.kr/p/2joxYz7) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138552337_54504d6220.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbNV)S Major 1134 (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbNV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The 1/2" square bar was contrived to be long enough to clamp on a faceplate for boring the bearings out to 7/32"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50137772488_20c330b9b5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jovbZf)S Major 1147 (https://flic.kr/p/2jovbZf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50138552107_80be5a19d6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbJX)S Major 1150 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jozbJX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To finish off the caps were drilled and tapped 5BA for fitting oil cups. Here are the bearings temporarily held by 5BA slotted head screws and a 7/32" diameter bar to check alignment.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50151307153_b38495bf50.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jpGynx)S Major 1155 (https://flic.kr/p/2jpGynx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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nicely done, I like the way you held the parts on the faceplate for drilling.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Little bearings look nice Andy, ditto the working method on the somewhat fiddly bits. Glad to be told that the slot headed screws were temporary or I should have worried about that all day...!! Dave
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Thanks Chris and Dave, I can’t use a slitting saw on my milling machine hence I use my lathe. My old Autolock chuck can’t hold the short stub of the arbor and run true, the wobble at the rim of a six inch slitting saw is alarming. Hot dry weather is slowing model engineering down, I’m spending more time running engines in the garden instead.
Andy
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The two Valve Levers were next,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181094408_ec76bcdc1c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jske5U)Valve levr 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jske5U) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I milled a piece of flat mild steel bar to within about 0.025" of the required thickness and width then cut the bar to make the two levers. To ensure they matched with 7/8" between centres I drilled the 9/32" hole in each then fitted them on a short 9/32 stub glued them together then drilled the 4BA clearance hole through both.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181895067_700309e978.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jspk6n)S Major 1156 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jspk6n) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Each piece was scribed to show the 1/8" thick lever or crank.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181636926_840cf73efa.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jso1mE)S Major 1157 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jso1mE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then one at a time they were mounted on an arbor on my lathe, held with a 15/32" diameter collar and a 1/4 whit nut on the end of the arbor. The crank was machined down to the line one side then re-positioned on the arbor for the other side to be machined down to the line.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181098658_301d3222c6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jskfmb)S Major 1161 (https://flic.kr/p/2jskfmb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181098478_421b3a618d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jskfi5)S Major 1162 (https://flic.kr/p/2jskfi5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At this stage I had two valve levers to be profiled as per the drawing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181636706_53d2041111.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jso1hS)S Major 1165 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jso1hS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50181894847_782bd665a1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jspk2z)S Major 1166 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jspk2z) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
About three hours filing followed using the arbor and 5/16" filing buttons as guides.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50189665071_666d24ef3f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jt69QX)S Major 1169 (https://flic.kr/p/2jt69QX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50189118053_4e04663b7c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3meB)S Major 1172 (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3meB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
At close of play this evening......
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50189118173_c440a84197.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3mgF)S Major 1176 (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3mgF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50189118008_316efe9edf.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3mdQ)S Major 1177 (https://flic.kr/p/2jt3mdQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50189664881_222273df33.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jt69MF)S Major 1178 (https://flic.kr/p/2jt69MF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
They now need much more polishing and a 1/32" rebate machined on the outward ends of the hub to follow the drawing.
Andy
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Nice to have some of these rather labour intensive little items ticked off, or nearly so. I think that I used the little GHT pull round rotary table on these and similar, being able to set the dead stops makes operations less nerve racking, but working from both sides means more fiddling about however you plan it... Dave
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Nice job Andy, I've just spent several hours filing bits on my next project. I have to keep stopping for a rest these days :old: but it's all worthwhile when you end up with nice parts made by hand. :cheers: Terry
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Thanks for the encouraging words Dave and Terry perhaps it will be finished this year......
Spent too long trying to edit videos this morning, click on this window below which will take you to my Flickr album then click on the Play > button in the centre of the screen.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/50200172047_6b047c31f8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ju21cH)HG Wednesday Club (https://flic.kr/p/2ju21cH) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
My workshop was too hot for comfort this afternoon so I made the valve shaft and let the lathe do all the work.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199704992_cf44008386.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYBn3)Valve shaft (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYBn3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
9/32" steel held in a Burnerd multisize collet chuck.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199450336_c79001b44a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtXiEq)S Major 1183 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtXiEq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Used a parting tool on the journals.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50198903648_cd390de0e6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtUv9L)S Major 1185 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtUv9L) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The fit was pretty good, just a little adjustment to the distance between the journals to achieve a smooth action.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199709857_d6b69705e2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYCNV)S Major 1186 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYCNV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199712112_5041e53fce.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYDtN)S Major 1187 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYDtN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
With the Valve levers loosely assembled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199712032_fe367c293a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYDsq)S Major 1190 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtYDsq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50198896973_fbb1a0be95.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtUtaF)S Major 1193 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtUtaF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
This is the engine so far,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199889751_fc164efffe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtZyhx)S Major 1194 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtZyhx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50200156072_3427eee699_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ju1Vsh)S Major 1196 (https://flic.kr/p/2ju1Vsh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50199889676_9f3f80db79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jtZygf)S Major 1197 (https://flic.kr/p/2jtZygf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Nice to see the update pictures of the whole assembly as it comes together, becomes impressive as it builds up and a spur to continuing with the further bits. I found that, as my beam engine was getting to that stage, one gets a real feeling of the way in which the engine captures the flavour of Victorian engineering and the very different machine aesthetic of those far off days: - it doesn't resemble anything that would be designed or sold in modern times when almost everything has to be hidden away behind a slick exterior and shiny surfaces! Time warp stuff!! Dave
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The Valve Rod Crosshead was next.
I wasn't confident with this and couldn't find any examples of how to make a similar part on the internet. There are pictures, most perfect (hard acts to follow) and a few where the builders appear to have given up on producing a crosshead as drawn.
The drawing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50203754867_59d0591ac8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juknft)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2juknft) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The crosshead is a part that I thought would require great care, thinking of the limitations of my milling machine's accuracy - dodgy vernier scales and no DRO. I also thought that a GHT pull round rotary table with adjustable dead stops would make the job easier, just a shame I don't have one.
Reckoned that it would be best to machine the 13/64" diameter journals with the job mounted on a lathe between centres. To ensure the axis would be at a right angle to the 5BA clearance hole in the centre I chose a length of flat 1" x 1/2" mild steel bar, marked it out and drilled the 1/8" diameter hole first. The stock was much longer than the part required so that I could eventually saw off the centre drilled stubs and have flat polished ends.
Using a 1/4" slot drill I milled four slots right through and centred the two ends of the bar ready to go in the lathe.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862907_454bd3b713_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyii)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyii) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020953_6027b0a049_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyff1R)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyff1R) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862852_b1392f1458_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyhm)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyhm) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862907_454bd3b713_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyii)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyii) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Turning the crosshead between centres. I reasoned that the excess stock would keep the job rigid whilst machining with interrupted cuts, just as well as the steel wasn't free cutting stuff.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020838_9196165d51_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeYS)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeYS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After sawing off the surplus bits, more lathe and filing work ensued.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248662851_15a034e543_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyiwQ4)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyiwQ4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020538_c83fbe9772_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeTG)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeTG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020783_9a48bf4ef2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeXV)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeXV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862762_88b72f2cac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyfN)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyfN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
No pictures of machining the journals, I forgot, anyway I used a 2mm parting tool, very carefully because I was experiencing some chatter - presumably the job was flexing.
The job was then mounted on an arbor in order to machine the ends of the hub for want of a better word. This job highlighted errors that required yet more hand filing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862717_d42d00aede_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyf2)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyf2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020578_b4bc4ec87d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeUo)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeUo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After sawing off the two stubs with centre drill holes and polishing .....the finished article. It's not perfectly symmetrical but on this occasion I'll settle for near enough.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248862692_e5ba074da6_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyeA)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyjyeA) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020578_b4bc4ec87d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeUo)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeUo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248020503_5c6f0a5f47_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeT6)Valve Rod Crosshead (https://flic.kr/p/2jyfeT6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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:ThumbsUp:
Fantastic job on that crosshead!
:popcorn:
John
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Hi Andy, nice procedure on the crosshead, and a good result. I chonked mine out of 1/2" sq. stock , mostly on the mill with one end of the stock in the vice and the other clamped against an angle plate. I formed the boss in the cente by nibbling up to a filing button of the boss dia. in many gentle cuts. The DRO was useful for the rest of the slicing away. Definitely one of the more brain teasing of the awkward little bits and nice to have out of the way, though there are still just a few more..! Dave
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Hi John and Dave, it is very encouraging to receive your comments. I hope to start making the two valve motion links this week.
Andy
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Great progress.
The engine already looks stunning.
:ThumbsUp:
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Valve Motion Links.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387057431_fa73c7dff7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwQHv)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwQHv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used two 5.1/2” lengths of ½” diameter mild steel which would allow for stubs on each end that would be centred and could also be held in a chuck for the finishing operations. The stubs were 1/4” long, turned down to 7/32” diameter and centre drilled. The ends were also drilled 1.8mm – the 8BA tapping size.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386363418_0ce754b15e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthpL)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthpL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Each piece was mounted in a square collet block for a pair of flats to be milled on each end. The set up was sufficiently rigid to mill opposite ends in one sitting with the stubs acting as a guide to the milling depth.
The centres for the bushes were carefully marked out drilled and reamed to 5/16” then brass keepers were lightly pressed in to preserve the shape when the job would be supported by a live centre.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387237347_78ab5c6295_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLxLcv)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLxLcv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387061026_27b19bcb3d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwRMu)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwRMu) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The eyes were rough turned using a 6mm button tool prior to using a ball turning tool to produce the radiused eyes. I forgot to take pictures of the ball turning tool session.
The button tool was used to machine the diameter down to about ¼” before machining the fish bellied shape, working on one end then turning the job round for the opposite end. The button tool produce a good finish throughout the job.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387060936_59b67ec85c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwRKW)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLwRKW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386363153_093628a35c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthkc)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthkc) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
With one end held in a chuck and the other supported by a live centre, the fish bellied shape was machined by altering the angle of the topslide. I set it to 2.5˚ for the first section nearest the eye then 1.5˚for the next section starting about an inch from the eye leaving a parallel section about an inch long in the centre where I settled for a diameter of 0.22” - very close to the 7/32” specified.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386363028_9fe6b5b313_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthi3)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthi3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The job was then polished with aluminium oxide cloth while it was spinning in the lathe.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386363073_5ca0be84b2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthiP)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLthiP) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To finish off the 1.8mm holes were tapped 8BA then stubs were sawn off and the ends rounded off by filing. The 8BA hexagon head screws retain the split bearings, to be made next week.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50390232771_414ed13cd6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLP7CK)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLP7CK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Valve motion links without bearings hanging on the crosshead.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50390408117_a602d968c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jLQ1KX)Valve Motion Links (https://flic.kr/p/2jLQ1KX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Not a small job, a Stuart Major. But great progress...!
:ThumbsUp:
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Yes indeed Gary and at each stage the next part always feels challenging.
Andy
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i've just done a set of 4 fishbellied links for my 7 1/4" gauge Locomotion. I did much the same process, turn spigot at ends, drill through for bushes and machine the flats, but I turned the rod section down to maximum diameter, and a short section at the ends to the minimum diameter. Then with lathe on top speed I did the fishbelly shape with a series of files of increasing fineness, finishing off with emery tape. Crude compared to yours, but its worked.
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Hello Richard, as long as we're happy with the result, that's the main thing. I also had to use a file to get the fish bellied shape.
I think you were building a Alyn Foundry Robinson Hot Air Engine, how are you getting on with it?
Andy
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Last week I made the four pairs of bronze split bushes (28) that fit in the eyes of the valve links made the previous week together with the two pins (29) that attach to the valve levers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447258927_6246a5eb6f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRRowk)Bushes and pins (https://flic.kr/p/2jRRowk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446357588_8066156cda_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRLLA1)S Major 1275A (https://flic.kr/p/2jRLLA1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I didn't take any pictures of the process because it was exactly the same as for the bushes in the Parallel motion and making the two pins wasn't interesting.
However, when I attempted to fit the bushes on the valve crosshead (that had taken ages to make) I discovered that I hadn't machined the crosshead journals down to the correct diameter of 13/64", mine were 0.22" about 17 thou oversize :censored: Not being prepared to make another valve crosshead meant that I had to open up the split bushes which took quite some time to get them to fit. I can always make two new pairs of bushes to fit the oversize journals if my 'modified' bushes aren't up to the job, they're just a bit thinner than specified.
I won't pin the valve levers to their shaft until I have checked the operation of the entire valve gear from eccentric to slide valve.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447233572_e61ff07134_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRRfZb)S Major 1280 (https://flic.kr/p/2jRRfZb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50446357678_a6eaa19d9c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRLLBy)S Major 1281 (https://flic.kr/p/2jRLLBy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next item to make is the Valve Hand Lever, which looks interesting, have other beam engine builders made their valve hand levers in one piece or attached the elliptical handle over a screw thread?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447211286_6a840615a1_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRR9mW)Valve Hand Lever (https://flic.kr/p/2jRR9mW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
As I don't have a 5/64" broach for the keyway in the hub and that size is probably unobtainable, I have decided to bore the boss of the lever to 7mm which is only 0.0056" under the 9/32" in the drawing and use a 2mm broach bought from ARC Eurotrade. The shaft the handle fits on will be machined down from 9/32" to 7mm.
This will be a hi-viz part that I have to get right!!
Andy
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The odd glitch now and again is inevitable in a project of this magnitude, but wow!
It's looking fantastic...
:ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
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Cheers Gary, reckon I misread the drawing then machined the journals down to 7/32” instead of 13/64. Fortunately I was able to work around that mistake.
Andy
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Hi Andy, pleased to see the engine coming on well once more. Those split bushes are a bit of a game, to be sure, quite a lot of work that no one is aware of when the thing is assembled.. I made the valve hand lever in one bit, though I don't suppose that two parts would present any problem if preferred. As you propose, I left the pinning of the levers on the shaft until I could see what was going on with the system as a whole, and the valve hand lever and the little levers could be lined up and adjusted side to side to fit happily with what you have actually made. Dave
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Hello Richard, as long as we're happy with the result, that's the main thing. I also had to use a file to get the fish bellied shape.
I think you were building a Alyn Foundry Robinson Hot Air Engine, how are you getting on with it?
Andy
Hi Andy
Yes, I'm doing the Alyn Foundry Hot Air Engine. Knowing that I was going to have to part with my large lathe, I did a lot of work in a short time to get the major castings machined. Since then, its slowed down a lot. I've polished and drilled/reamed the links, and am about to have another go at the regenerator. I keep getting the bits out and looking at it. Really, there no reason why I can't just get on and finish it.
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It's nearly two months since I made any Stuart Major parts, I was distracted making the Retlas Manchester Dynamo, now I'm waiting for dynamo materials so I'll resume work on the ST Major.
.
The next part to be made is the Valve Hand Lever, I'll try to adhere to the drawings as far as the shape goes but the most important dimension is the 15/16" between centres of the 4BA clearance hole and the centre of the hub which will influence the amount of valve travel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50447211286_26ec821726.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRR9mW)
I haven't made a lever like this before and was uncertain how to go about it. To make the lever in one piece it seemed the elliptically shaped end of the lever should come first and I started with a form tool followed by a radius turning tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50666223766_ca763f803f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jRR9mW)
Radius turning tool
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669450136_eb525535e4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kccD9b)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669525257_6578d7ba57_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcubef)
Parting tool
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50668700368_d542267b74_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcuyyr)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669525407_9fd4c4f4af_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcqkmd)
Form tool again.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669525347_0defe8ac7c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcuyB2)
Polished while still in the lathe.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50668700183_1e52e46f01_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcuyzZ)
Then milled flats on each side to a thickness of 5/16"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669525327_f11b2d38a4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcqki2)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50669449971_5da2d2ba09_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcuyzD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50668700143_dafe15a968_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcubbp)
That was it for today.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2kcqkhk)
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That radius turning tool is interesting - can you show some detail on how that works?
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Ok Crueby I’ll do that for you tomorrow.
Andy
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The lever looks great.
:ThumbsUp:
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Hi Crueby, here are some pictures of my radius turning tool, it's a George Thomas / J Radford design. I bought it from a used tool stand at a model engineering show years ago.
A kit is available from http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Spherical_Turning_Tool.html
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50673229676_ce9af70ac8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxKJ)S Major 1301 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxKJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50673229611_09738c2ab4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxJB)S Major 1303 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxJB) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50673313057_1708389e32_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPYxk)S Major 1304 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPYxk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The use of 1/8" diameter high speed steel tool bits is quite convenient being inexpensive and easy to sharpen.
This YouTube video is a good demonstration of how the tool is used.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psY1bL9Oaq4
Andy
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Thanks Andy!!
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Andy's looks rather better than mine which was made out of scrap-binium.
You can make you own using a boring head mounted on a rotating shaft ;)
Jo
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50673229676_ce9af70ac8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxKJ)S Major 1301 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxKJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Looks way better than some of the current off-the-shelf offerings...
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A little more work on the Valve Hand Lever
Drilled the 4BA clearance hole and a 7mm hole in the hub of the lever. A 2mm keyway was then broached in the 7mm hole using my drill press. The drawing specifies 9/32" with a 5/64" keyway. I had no alternative than to go for a 7mm hole and 2mm keyway - the broach and bush were affordable.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50672482213_d2652db1ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHyr)S Major 1307 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHyr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next stage was to thin the lever down to 7/64" thickness by milling approximately 0.105" off each side. It was difficult to hold the job securely with my range of parallels so the job was held below the level of the vice jaws and a 3/8" slot drill used.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50673229531_5f6874f3bb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxHe)S Major 1310 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcPxHe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50672482128_ca609e91cb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHwY)S Major 1315 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHwY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The four ridges left on the edges were filed away.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50672482098_1b42395c7e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHws)S Major 1316 (https://flic.kr/p/2kcKHws) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The will be plenty of filing and polishing tomorrow.
Andy
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Cheers Gary, Jo and Crueby.
I attempted to build a Hemmingway radius turning tool but didn't get the dovetail right and gave up. Thinking of the cost of a dovetail milling cutter you have to be keen to go to the trouble of making the tool.
Andy
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Andy's looks rather better than mine which was made out of scrap-binium.
You can make you own using a boring head mounted on a rotating shaft ;)
Jo
Oooh, clever idea!
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I did make one from a Hemmingway kit. It doesn't get used a lot, but it does get used. My problem is that when you make it, part of the process is machining the parts so the axis of rotation is on the centreline of the lathe. That way you get true spheres. My problem is that making it was 4 lathes ago, and I can't see a good way of setting it to centre now. Yes, I can get it pretty close by eye, and to be honest, for what I do, thats good enough, but I'd be interested to know if there is a 'proper' way of doing it.
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Finished work of the valve lever arm today but I departed from the drawings because I made a couple of mistakes. The first mistake was to make it from 1/2" diameter bar, 9/16" or 5/8" would have been appropriate because I didn't have enough stock to form the circular hub at the bottom of the lever. The second mistake was to make the keyway too tall in the hub, this meant that I had to settle for an elongated hub to avoid having an open slot. I didn't feel like starting all over again. The key will be a little taller than normal but the head of the key should hide my error.
Anyway here are the results.
Milling the tapered sides of the lever
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683059543_ff0f3ede42_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kdFVQc)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683821136_61fbce0c14_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kdFVQc)
After a fair amount of filing and polishing......
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683820966_1543743c21_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kdKQe7)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683059713_7ff6719d75_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kdKQbb)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683059488_a645515cdf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kdFVT8)
The hub or boss of the lever doesn't look too far out of place in comparison with the lower end of the valve motion link just to the right.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2kdFVPf)
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:praise2:
Very nice! Lovely parts and they look just right on your engine. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50720797777_a7ba6827dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kh2m6p)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2kh2m6p)
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Cheers Roger,
I hope you can rebuild your Diesel engine and have it running in the near future.
Andy
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Happy Christmas Andy! Santa's elves in the packing department at Stuart Turner, as was, never sent along the decorative accessories to prepare my Major Beam for festivities, but it's too late to berate the workers at Henley on Thames for the missing bits...! Dave
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Delightful, and a Merry Christmas from me.
John
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Hello Dave, good to hear from you. The decorative accessories have been waiting seven years to celebrate yet its still not finished. I must get a move on or John 'simplyloco' will overtake me! I'm so easily distracted by what seem to be short term projects such as the Retlas dynamo. Surely I should finish my Stuart Major next year.
Thanks your your reply John and I'm pleased to see you are sorting out your Stuart Major.
Andy
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A little more work milling a 2mm wide keyway in the end of the valve shaft part 31 to suit the 2mm slot in the valve lever arm. I have used this cutter for many similar operations and it performs really well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50751739163_f64ea65714_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVTz)S Major 1332 (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVTz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used a Proxxon 1mm thick disc cutter and moved the topslide 20 thou from side to side to increase the width of the keyway to 2mm, checked with feeler gauges.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50752579457_48b6dee711_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kjQeFp)S Major 1334 (https://flic.kr/p/2kjQeFp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50752473051_b3772022c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kjPG3P)S Major 1333 (https://flic.kr/p/2kjPG3P) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The gib key I made fairly quickly is ok and does the job but I will probably make another closer fitting one later on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50751739243_247dcca00f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVUX)S Major 1335 (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVUX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50751739213_89642475c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVUr)S Major 1337 (https://flic.kr/p/2kjKVUr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I have to think about how to make the approximately twelve inch long and slender (9/32") fish bellied eccentric rod next.
Andy
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I like your use of a boring tool holder to hold the shaft. Forgive me if I nick it!
John
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Too cold to spend long in my garage this afternoon so I machined a very small part, the Eccentric Rod Pivot Pin.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780022963_10ec44d03e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knfTFi)
I used a small Coventry Die Head to put the thread on the end, it happened to have 4BA chasers left in it after another job otherwise it wouldn't be worth the time taken to set it up. The die head has a 5/8" diameter shank so it is fortunate that I have a 3/4" Jacobs chuck to hold it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779936588_bbd130d673_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knfTFi)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780705326_c484aa65b7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knfs15)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780809947_3f1e860fe5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knjowb)
Parting tool used to machine the journal.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780809867_b873910a12_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knjVBZ)
Parting off
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780809847_57a661bee2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knjVAB)r
Pivot Pin fiited to the Valve Hand Lever
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779936578_f94a4caeb3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2knjVAg)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2knfrZU)
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Pinned the valve levers to the valve shaft this afternoon using 5/64" taper pins, a job that I wasn't looking forward to because I haven't got on well with tiny taper pin reamers in the past. The cheap Chinese taper pin reamers I had tried didn't cut for long and were a waste of time and money so I bought a new Dormer 5/64 taper reamer for the Stuart Major job.
To ensure the valve levers were in line with each other and their position on the shaft was correct I used a length of 4BA allthread, marked where to drill the 1/16" holes through the levers and shaft and held the assembly in a drill vice.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50895843247_291d3f2c77_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv1K)S Major 1349 (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv1K) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50895843342_aba96c84a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv3o)S Major 1350 (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv3o) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Used a pin chuck between finger and thumb to ream the 1/16" holes to take 5/64 taper pins that are 3/4" long. With a mixture of Trefolux and light oil the Dormer reamer performed really well, I kept going until about an eigth of an inch of the pins projected out the other side - so the pins can be easily removed. My drawings state that the levers should be silver soldered to the shaft as well but I won't do that unless it proves necessary
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50895843277_72963090b8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv2g)S Major 1352 (https://flic.kr/p/2kxuv2g) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50895011878_b4eef78de6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxqeSN)S Major 1353 (https://flic.kr/p/2kxqeSN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A short Flickr video of the valve levers moving, click on the picture below.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/50895727451_0075b7ae7d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxtUAg)S Major 1354 (https://flic.kr/p/2kxtUAg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The Valve Lever Arm will be also pinned to the shaft with a 5/64" taper pin but I won't do that until I have lined it up with the long eccentric rod that I haven't made yet.
Andy
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I'm on the horns of that particular dilemma myself. It might be easier to rely on some Loctite and capillary action...
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Yet another Stuart Major eccentric rod, this could be confusing at this stage as I'm crossing paths with Simplyloco.
I thought about machining this part in one piece but chickened out and decided to make it in three sections as Simplyloco has but I'll form the slot at the handle end so that the eccentric rod can be disengaged and the valves operated manually which might be interesting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50911881718_15a083c52c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyUGG7)
The latch section of the eccentric rod has been formed on the end of a length of a 3/4 x 1/4" mild steel bar milled down to 7/32" thickness over the last inch and a half. I'll open up the 7/32" hole to form the slot later on.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912574776_de8f1af57e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyUGG7)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50911884508_e8550fd1df_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyYfHo)
It was tempting (for a moment) to have a go at machining the steel bar into the fish bellied rod as drawn but the risk of messing it up after all that filing.....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50911884498_92199801fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyUHwd)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912574711_73c5879738_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyUHw3)
Ill have a go at the handle and fish bellied rod over the weekend.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2kyYfGg)
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Nice to see that great minds think alike... :cheers:
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Hi Andy, nice to see more beam engine activity. Just a reminder re. the eccentric rod, as I mentioned ages ago in my write up, that the O/A length given by ST in the dwgs. is wrong, and the sure way will be to do a rod lash up ( bits of wood in my case ) between the lever and the eccentric when they are in position. Not sure that I put any pics on before, so append these of the rod, with your permission. Dave
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Hi Dave. thanks for posting pictures of your eccentric rod, it is superb, made exactly as drawn and has clearly defined sharp edges particularly where the sections change from circular to octagonal to square. Made from a single piece of steel I presume?
Your tips and advice are a great help, I will make a mock up to establish the length the eccentric rod will need to be.
Andy
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Hi Andy, thanks for that. It's in two bits, the join is at the LH end of the octagonal section, Loctite, and I think that I put a very small dia pin through just to be sure! Dave
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Hi Dave, one of your "eye deceiving naughty methods" - noted.
Andy
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Continuing with what I'm calling the latch I drilled a 1/8" hole/socket in the end that will have a handle and had a go at filing the other end into an octagonal section.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436762_70dac10147_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVB1)S Major 1364 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVB1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then cut it off the steel bar and drilled another 1/8" hole that will take a pin attached to the eccentric rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50922623973_927cce8ab2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKZp)S Major 1366 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKZp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436987_be85660451_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVET)S Major 1368 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVET) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436937_ca8737bce6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVE2)S Major 1369 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVE2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436952_f1d323853c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVEh)S Major 1370 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVEh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50922623893_b29961cc9b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKY2)S Major 1375 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKY2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Dave 'Chipswitheverything' and 'Steamhead warned that the drawing states an incorrect length for the eccentric rod. I made up an aluminium dummy rod that could be adjusted to establish the correct length for my engine. A 6BA cap head screw clamps the 1/8" rod in position. The other end is held in the latch by low strength Loctite retainer.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50922623858_e2eb71f04c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKXq)S Major 1379 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzRKXq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436717_ea2c02c855_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVAe)S Major 1380 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVAe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50923436682_29a19600ce_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVzC)S Major 1390 (https://flic.kr/p/2kzVVzC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here's a YouTube video of the engine being turned over.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wBHCptMXQg
Turning the fishbellied rod comes next.
Andy
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That's a big one - moves very nicely though :ThumbsUp:
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Looking very good Andy, video shows very sweet free movement. When you can see all the items that have taken much work moving together like that, it really begins to feel like you have a proper beam engine! Dave
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Thank you very much for the comments Dave and Per.
Further progress is delayed by the sub zero temperature in my workshop and feeling a bit groggy after having the Coronavirus Vaccine yesterday. My wife and I are very pleased to have had he vaccination.
Andy
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Awwww love the motion and free movement gets me all pumped up...... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
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Pleased you’re all pumped up Don, hope this post isn't a let down having no video :cheers:
I machined the eccentric rod itself this afternoon, it was a straightforward job using the taper turning attachment on my lathe to create the fish bellied effect. Using 9/32" mild steel which is the mid point diameter of the rod the first job was turning one end down to fit in the 7/32" diameter socket in the bronze eccentric strap and centre drill the end.
The length was copied from the dummy eccentric rod = 8.85"or 8.5" shoulder to shoulder, and the other end centre drilled. I also went in with a 1/8" drill for about half an inch to take the rod used to attach the latch. Each end of the tapered sections were turned down to 7/32" for about 1/8" where the tapers would be at their narrowest.
With half of the rod projecting from the chuck, fine feed and supported by a live centre I set the taper turning attachment to 1.5 degrees (I think) and kept taking repeated five thou deep cuts until the taper was starting at the 7/32" section. The job was reversed in the chuck before adjusting the taper turner setting to ensure the tapers on each end of the rod matched. I merely adjusted the taper turning attachment as the job progressed forming three progressively shallower tapers towards the centre. The taper changes were subtle and a minimal amount of polishing with abrasive roll made them almost invisible.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50936890126_1802952a1b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SPy)S Major 1392 (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SPy) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50936890091_aa7b4fabbf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SNX)S Major 1393 (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SNX) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50936890101_063f56a6b2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SP8)S Major 1394 (https://flic.kr/p/2kB7SP8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The machined rod loosely fitted to the latch.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50936999712_43fcfce601_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kB8roY)S Major 1395 (https://flic.kr/p/2kB8roY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50936203248_3d61704870_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kB4mCQ)S Major 1399 (https://flic.kr/p/2kB4mCQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I hope to make the handle tomorrow.
Andy
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Lovely fish bellied rod, the taper turning gadget ( which I have not got ) was the very thing for that procedure, certainly. Interested by your comment about post vaccine effect that you experienced, had my jab yesterday and felt a bit ropey later in the evening, but OK having got up today! Dave
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Taper attachments are great when they work. Mine is on my 1942 Monarch has a worn slide that limits it to 3" of useable travel.
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I fashioned the handle by rough turning, filing and polishing to finish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50947018133_8aeb5dd0da_z.jpg)[/url]
The eccentric rod loosely assembled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50949269481_171f69848b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kC1Mwn)
Hi Dave & Kvom - Taper Turning Attachments, yes great when they work, mine has moved in mysterious ways on several occasions when the connecting rod has slipped in the anchor. I only fit the anchor when I want to turn a taper.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50947718306_c4409ff04c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCdjLH)
The cap head screw arrowed in this picture has to be done up very tightly to clamp the connecting rod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50949305241_b258e541f7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kC5nEj)
Fortunately the attachment was already fitted to my lathe when I bought it 30 years ago. I have seen incomplete taper turner attachments offered for sale at more than I paid for the whole lathe - incredible. However, very useful to be able to tweak the setting between cuts to form fishbellied rods.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2kCdvpg)
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I had to do a number of fishbellied rods for my locomotive. 4 of them were over 8 " long. I turned down a short section at each end to the right diameter, then stuck the lathe on top speed and attacked the rod with a series of files, followed by emery cloth. They didn't take long to do.
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Hi Richard, you make it sound quite violent, "attacked the rod with a series of files...." I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your fishbellied rods. :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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I started work on the wheel valve body yesterday, here's an extract from the drawings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50953356223_87d61b87ac_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzgBM)Wheel Valve Body (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzgBM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I prepared a length of 1" diameter brass bar so that I could use a ball turning tool to form the globe shaped centre.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954050396_7790c5a3af_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPYh)S Major 1410 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPYh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using a Ball turning tool. I couldn't turn the globe section down to 13/32" radius because the tool fouled to flanges on either. I don't think the radius matters but it was near enough.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155912_6cd9e4d1bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnkw)S Major 1412 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnkw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Ran a 5/16" drill through the centre.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155907_768f259016_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnkr)S Major 1414 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnkr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then set the job up on my milling machine to drill the 17/32" hole through the globe. I started off with a centre drill and positioned the job by eye.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50953350293_6d4f9fd8a4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeRx)S Major 1416 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeRx) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155872_e62a06b702_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnjQ)S Major 1419 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnjQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then back on the lathe for parting off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50953350388_c6a9f4f8bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeTb)S Major 1420 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeTb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next job was part No 47 'Wheel Valve Seat' and I carried on using up my 1" brass bar. The valve seat will be silver soldered in the valve body.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954161397_8f9f058fc9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDoY6)Wheel valve seat spindle (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDoY6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Turned a section down to 17/32" to fit in the globe then used the ball turning tool to turn a radius on the end to match the globe. I had left the ball turning tool set at the same radius.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50953350358_2a09bc6360_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeSE)S Major 1421 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeSE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50953350318_2185df0b94_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeRY)S Major 1422 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCzeRY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A little more turning to form a flange.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155632_7c39867d7a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnfG)S Major 1423 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnfG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155622_629a9202ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnfw)S Major 1424 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDnfw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Back on the milling machine to mill flats on opposite sides of the valve seat. The parent bar was held in a square collet block.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954050071_6769f3ca6f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSF)S Major 1425 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954050061_9b37f467d9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSv)S Major 1426 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
That provides a flat faces for milling the 5/32" high slots for the inlet and outlet ports.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954050046_c326bd24ed_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSf)S Major 1427 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCCPSf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50954155492_145cf5983c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDndh)S Major 1429 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCDndh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
It seemed to me that simple round holes would suffice rather than the milled 5/32" slots unless I'm missing something. Anyway, that was as far as I progressed today.
Andy
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Lovely work and educational for me.....I started making one of these for my Charlesworth engine and made a complete bog of it :cussing:
Your post is now filed away for future reference :happyreader: Cheers Terry
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Well Terry there is ample scope remaining for me to mess this up.
Andy
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Hi Andy, you are forging ahead now!, all looking good. I had a look through my scruffy notes after your PM, but apart from annotaing the dwgs. themselves here and there, there was nothing that I had especially noted about the valve. Your procedure looks much like what I had done, with the spherical bottom of the inserted piece formed and then the shoulder matched to the main body to form the appropriate length. When I made the handwheel, I made up a couple of simple gauge plate form tools to create the ogee inner profile of the rim and the shape of the little hub. Drilled both parts on the dividing head while they were attached to the parent stock. The spokes were silver soldered in overlength and all cleaned up. Worth doing, I think. Dave
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Continuing with the valve seat.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50956490278_e1a40cb1b1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRkgd)Wheel Valve seat (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRkgd) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling the ports, I havent got a 5/32" slot drill so I used a 1/8" slot drill. I doubt whether 0.031" will make much difference, I can open up the port using a Dremel with a burr if necessary.
This is the lower inlet port, the job was rotated 180 degrees to mill the outlet port higher up the opposite side.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50957267232_ebe6f7ea85_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjdY)S Major 1431 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjdY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then back on the lathe for parting off,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50957267407_d4e9443829_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjgZ)S Major 1432 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjgZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Mounted in a three jaw chuck I was able to see the progress of a 1/4" drill through the inlet port and stop when the point had just gone past the opening.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50957267392_a00b3ff4dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjgJ)S Major 1433 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjgJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I then went in with a 3/8" drill followed by a 3/8" slot drill to machine the step that is the valve seat. Again I could see the progress of the slot drill though the 'outlet slot'. Then counterbored 7/16" diameter by 1/8" deep.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50956462733_9d67367a2e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRc5i)S Major 1436 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRc5i) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The valve so far.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50957247786_d9b6326c17_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVdrG)S Major 1443 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVdrG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50956462678_f8bcd45631_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRc4m)S Major 1442 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRc4m) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Torch lighting up the outlet port.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50957267307_d5fb44e4c2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjfg)S Major 1440 (https://flic.kr/p/2kCVjfg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Dave, hope you won't mind me including a picture of your excellent wheel valve here. Now I'll have to try making a handwheel similar to yours.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50956567728_a4d8e68e1c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRJhy)
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2kCRJhy)
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Thanks a lot Andy - I wasn't going to intrude on your blog, but of course you are most welcome to use the picture. Your valve is really coming on, it is a nice component to work on and a pretty bit of the engine as an small item all on its own. Dave
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The wheel valve is just about finished, it needs the top flange sealed and some gland packing. I fitted a commercial hand wheel that was to hand, I'll have a go at fabricating a spoked handwheel similar to Dave's - Chipswitheverything, later.
The wheel valve in bits
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023804662_42620201d9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNku3)S Major 1458 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNku3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Having made a mess of the two pillars I decided to make them using nickel silver, drilled 8ba clearance through the centres and have 8ba allthread runiing through them, the two cheese head screws will be replaced when the valve is finally assembled and ready for action.
Assembled, the valve seems to work perfectly as it is.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023795776_1367ec1136_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQQ)S Major 1444 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023795771_ec75400e40_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQK)S Major 1445 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023795766_02b1a758a3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQE)S Major 1456 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNhQE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A couple of failures,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023705141_16c4547621_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJMPUa)S Major 1467 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJMPUa) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I'm working on the throttle valve at the moment, in particular the throttle valve body part 40 on the drawing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023949832_6f9f07f308_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJP5CY)Throttle (https://flic.kr/p/2kJP5CY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using 7/8" brass bar for the body I have cross drilled it 5/16" and silver soldered a short length of 5/16" brass bar leaving generous chucking pieces for the next machining jobs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023804522_131ee65a9f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNkrC)S Major 1459 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNkrC) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51022974883_dbf25184ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJJ5Pv)S Major 1462 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJJ5Pv) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023804597_afab69e088_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNksV)S Major 1464 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJNksV) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51022974858_22992360c9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJJ5P5)S Major 1466 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJJ5P5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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That valve came out great!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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This is indeed, a beautiful rising spindle flange mounted valve Chip...... :cheers:.......
Looking again at the Drawings, the valve appears to have a high flow path relative to the flange port sizing...possibly just :old: steam design?...
or was the concept of the rising spindle valve to provide a robust valve structure that enabled an internal construction which allowed those large internal cavities etc? :happyreader:
Derek
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Hi Andy, the valve looks very good, another nice tick on the diminishing list of bits to do! Be interested to see your spoked handwheel if you get around to that, I felt that it enhanced the appearance enough to make it worth the doing. Dave
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Thanks Crueby, Derek and Dave.
For Derek's comment, unfortunately I don't have the knowledge to be able to comment on the history and design of the valve.
This afternoon I worked on the spindle part 41. I doubted that I could turn an inch of a 5/32" stainless rod down to 3/32" so I drilled a 3/32" hole to a depth of 5/8" in the end of the bar then glued in a length of 3/32" stainless using Loctite 638. My preference was for silver solder but the reaction of the flux when heated caused the 3/32" bar to be launched like a pop gun.
My next task was to mill the 5/16" long flat near the end of the spindle for mounting the butterfly valve disc. An unused 3/16 end mill performed really well and I checked the length of the flat using guage blocks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026185053_d9266dc91c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x6g)S Major 1469 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x6g) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027015157_5ea6c1ebb5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MRp)S Major 1470 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MRp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026185023_76a16c1d5a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x5K)S Major 1471 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x5K) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027015347_003204fae0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MUF)S Major 1472 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MUF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027015312_ca7a21e123_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MU5)S Major 1473 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MU5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The valve body was then drilled 5/32 to the approptiate depth for the spindle and threaded 3/16 x 40 tpi for the throttle gland (part 42). You can see why I left generous chucking pieces.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027015127_630ac7a9ce_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MQT)S Major 1474 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MQT) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026184948_9fac4360a6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x4s)S Major 1476 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x4s) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then the steam pasage was drilled through 5/16"
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026184943_2999f2dfdf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x4n)S Major 1477 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x4n) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I removed the excess length of the spindle and carefully ground tiny amounts off the end that fits in the blind hole until the flat on the spindle lined up with the 5/16 bore of the valve. I tested this by inserting a piece of 5/16 bar when I felt the bar register with the flat on the spindle I was ready to drill and thread the spindle for 10ba screw to hold the butterfly valve in place. To ensure the 10ba tapping drill was centred in the spindle I made a brass guide 5/16 diameter with a 1.4mm hole drilled through the centre, the guide looked like a pellet.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026184918_3c976c34c6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x3W)S Major 1478 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x3W) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027015057_0f18a3da22_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MPF)S Major 1482 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5MPF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The guide was pushed into the valve so that it registered with the flat on the spindle and stopped the spidnle rotating. The hole in the spindle was also tapped 10ba in this set up with the valve held in a 3 jaw chuck, I'm thinking that the hole should be right in the middle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026184808_b0d7c75974_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x23)S Major 1479 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK1x23) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A snug was made to hold the valve body so that the chucking piece could be machined away.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51026914681_ab2bae8ee6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5gZ4)S Major 1481 (https://flic.kr/p/2kK5gZ4) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The next task was going to be boring the base of the valve body 5/32" x 3/16" deep to fit on a 5/32 plain stub on top of the Throttle Stay (part 45) and be retained by a 10ba screw. However, I wondered whether such an arrangement would be sufficient so I decided to think it over. The copper pipe from the throttle valve to the steam chest may help to keep things together.
Andy
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Hi Andy, more nice work, and good photo coverage of the operations. I think that rather than the 10 ba screw, I put a v. small taper pin though to give a more secure fixing. ( Yes, I did!, just checked, 1/16" at the big end...) Dave
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Thanks for the info Dave, as you'll see I have used a 10ba screw but this could be assisted with a taper pin or a drop of Loctite, still thinking about the handwheel.
Throttle valve components
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51029347228_d2bce02e65_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKhK6w)
Some views of the valve
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51030173717_ff7b7ca27e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKhK6w)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51029347213_e5640f2d88_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKmYMk)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51029347193_b18b6ac058_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKhK6g)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51030072806_57f8ab1fe1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKhK5V)
The butterfly disc is 19/64" diameter in a 5/16" tube as in the drawing so I can see daylight around the disc. I have no experience of regulating steam with a butterfly valve so I am curious as to how effective it will be governing the engine. Should the disc be a closer fit or is the clearance necessary to prevent bringing the engine to a standstill?
I'll have to polish out some of the marks left in the brass.
Andy
(https://flic.kr/p/2kKmsMu)
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The Throttle Valve is mounted on a tapered stay,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044293241_4eceecc51d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBm2p)Throttle stay part 57 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBm2p) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Using a 7/16" diameter stainless steel bar I turned the top end down to 5/32 which fits in the throttle valve body. With a little trigonometry I reckoned the taper turning attachment should be set to 0.895 degrees. I settled for slightly under 1 degree as the scales on the attachment don't have the necessary resolution.
Here's the job being turned, the lathe's autostop disengaged the feed at the end of each cut.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51043558478_cd6e426ca1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLxzB5)S Major 1488 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLxzB5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then polished.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044295111_17e0107f6d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmzD)S Major 1490 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmzD) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I decided to fit allthread in the bottom of the stay so I left about an inch of the parent bar on the job, reversed it in the three jaw chuck then went in with a 2ba tapping drill for 1.5" followed by a clearance drill for 1" and tapped the last 1/2" of the hole 2ba.
The job was then turned round again and carefully parted off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51043558418_9ef90e93a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLxzA3)S Major 1492 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLxzA3) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The finished item.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044295086_3e2c3efedd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmzd)S Major 1493 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmzd) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
with the throttle valve balanced on top.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044295056_e480c4e660_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmyG)S Major 1494 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmyG) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044295016_8fdbecdbb6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmy1)S Major 1496 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLBmy1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Just terrific.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Hi Andy, very nice.
What kind of chuck is there in picture 1488 used at the lathe ?
I have never seen before.
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Andy, the butterfly valves I have done in the past don't use a round disc. The butterfly is cut at an angle from a length of bar that is the same diameter as the hole and gives a very close fit. This is how the Stuart ones are done on the 1" bore engines and I also did it on my Tidman
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Tidman%20Organ%20Engine/.highres/Tid144_zpsfjsfrhw6.jpg)
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I have just made the valve for a no 9 as supplied the disc is not round and fits the hole at an angle when closed
it is a neat fit .how have engines that have been completed worked.
John
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Thanks very much Crueby and to John and Jason for the technical advice. The picture Jason posted is so useful, at least I can have a go at that without having to make the whole valve again should my plain round disc be inadequate.
Hi Achim, the chuck is a Pratt Burnerd Multisize Collet Chuck which was with my lathe when I bought it 30+ years ago but not the collets. Fortunately I was able to buy the unused set of collets at a reasonable price. The chuck appeared to be unused at the time so I think I was very lucky, they were expensive in their day, I don't think they're made now.
Here are a series of pictures of the chuck that I took this morning.
Andy
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Looks splendid :praise2: :praise2:
That's an interesting collet chuck :ThumbsUp: not one I have seen before :)
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Jasonb.....
This is interesting & without going off thread, do you use a square 'knife edge' on the elliptical disc?, or is it feather or rounded back?
I watched a video from Keith Appleton doing an overhaul of the same Stuart Major Beam engine, and this model appears to have a globe/needle valve close bolted to the disc throttle valve
So a question for Andy or Jason, ...'what is the need for the globe/needle valve on the engine?.......and not be fitted as an isolation to the boiler discharge?'.....or are the two valves used in conjunction with each other so to provide as a 'speed 'and 'flow' duet of valving functions?
Whilst it at first may appear simple, but the actual differences in dimensions & geometry of a round disc compared to an elliptical disc is rather complex :hammerbash:
I see the Drawing dimensions as bore =5/16", disc = 19/64" x 1/32" thick, so when these are assembled, there is a 1/128" diametrical clearance at the pintal shaft points, as the opposite or elliptical surface edges of the disc approaches the parallel bore?....[just before the arc of fully closed?]
Derek
Watching on with interest :cheers:
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Edge just lightly deburred
As the diameter of the stock the disc is cut from is the diameter of the hole when disc is in shut position there will be no gap not that it really matters so much see below. Closed position is with the butterfly sitting at whatever angle it was cut from, this has the added advantage of needing less movement to go from closed to fully open. I think 1/8th of a turn for the one I show rather than 1/4 turn needed for Andy's
The governor is there purely to limit the speed, there will be another valve often called the regulator somewhere else which is the "on/off". Not looked at the appleton video so it could be you are seeing the on/off globe valve and the regulator has the butterfly. Or simply that the previous owner just wanted to set his engine to run nice and slow for display as the scaled down governors don't work well particularly at very slow speeds so another means of setting the speed for no load running was needed. If the original builder had made it to the drawing as Andy has done that small gap will let through far too much air/steam for slow display running so that again may be why the valve was added.
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Hi Andy, thanks for all these chuck pictures.
That seems to be a very useful tool.
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Hello Derek, I assume the globe and throttle valve will work together to provide as you say - "a speed and flow duet of valving functions". I accept what Jason said, "the scaled down governors don't work well particularly at very slow speeds so another means of setting the speed for no load running was needed".
I have watched all the videos I can find of ST Majors running and haven't seen evidence of the governor and throttle valve controlling speed.
This extract from the general arrangement drawing shows the two valves bolted together and that seems to be the way for the majority of Stuart Majors I have photgraphed or have featured in pictures I copied from the Internet. Here are a collection of globe and throtlle valves on Stuart Majors.
Andy
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From what i see if the valve is made to your drawing the valve would not do much to control speed if the valve was made as Jason shows it might be able to do some control if the vale does close not much flow is required for slow speeds and no load the valve as your drawing shows would allow too much flow for what that engine would require. just my thoughts it would be good to make one as jason shows that does close of the flow through and
and see if it can restrict the flow enough.for required running .
John
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Without labouring a point of critical interest :facepalm:, if we accept that the disc valve has a set inbuilt flow function relative disc position and governer linkage arm, then the Globe valve set to obtain/maintain the desired engine speed [relative to optimum system pressure], then the governer linkage arm adjustment and the globe valve be left as set & forget
So to start the engine, full control is obtained by using the boiler discharge Needle/Globe valve as the controlling element?
I do not recall any of the Videos :atcomputer: explaining this point
Derek
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The disc valve control arm [Item 44] shows 1" pin to pin centres, but also a second 2mm diameter hole with an effective 1/4" shorter function.....what is this unused second 2mm diameter hole for?
Why would the Designer throw in two Metric dimensioned holes in a Best of British :Lol: " & fractions of + lots of BA threadform?
Derek
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You see it on lots of drawings, Number drills have gone out fashion and 0.1mm increment drill sets taken their place. Without seeing the mating clevis and pin it's just speculation but maybe they want a bit of clearance on a 5/64th pin or clearance for a 9BA thread on the pin. Another example on the Stuart engine I'm working on at the moment tapping and clearance sizes are in mm rest of the drawing imperial.
Governor would have been set to give the desired speed to whatever the engine was driving and not altered once set. Globe valve is then ON/OFF control.
Second hole would be for fine tuning giving more mechanical advantage to the governor which is often lacking in models where the build up of friction etc is more than the balls can cope with.
This is the engine that that disc was cut for, set up for slow display work the governor will limit the speed but it does mean it jumps about a bit and then gets very lively if you try to load it. It's basically in the fully closed position and just running off the small amount of air leaking around the butterfly's spindle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owD7Qd9947k
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The steam pipe from the throttle valve to the valve chest was next.
The drawings show 3/8" diameter copper tube, I used 8mm tube as used in microbore central heating systems because being thin walled it's easier to bend , I have a few yards of it and I have a cheap tube bender that handles 8mm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50999663049_8754f9369a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGEB2k)Steam Pipe and flanges (https://flic.kr/p/2kGEB2k) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51084707967_08c84ccd48_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtV2)S Major 1506 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtV2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The tube bender had a tendency to squeeze the tube out of round which looked awful so I bought some Woods metal which has a 70 degree C melting point. I believe the trade name is Cerrobend which costs a lot more than I was prepared to spend.
My internet searching found a firm called 'Special Plasters' in Birmingham who sell Woods metal in smaller quantities and many other interesting products.
https://specialplasters.co.uk/low-melt-metal-lm70.html
One end of the copper tube was crimped in a vice and left standing upright. Then a small quantity of the Woods metal was placed in an old stainless steel milk jug, heated with a gas torch and carefully poured down into the copper tube. Safety goggles are essential - care is needed to avoid any trapped air or moisture which might cause the molten Woods metal to erupt from the tube. Fortunately I didn't have any accidents. The tube is then ready for kink free bending.
Here are five failures pictured in front of the bar of Woods metal. I guessed where to bend the tube and got it right on the sixth attempt. The tube bender couldn't produce the two bends as close together as required so after heating the tube to empty out the Woods metal I annealed it again and tighted up the bends carefully by hand.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51084707982_ff7270ec70_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtVh)S Major 1505 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtVh) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The brass flanges were straightforward but I added a bit more depth at the boss or hub to the ensure the flanges would sit square on the tube.
A steel jig was made to ensure all the bolt holes in the flanges and valves would line up.
These two pictures were taken after silver soldering the flanges on the pipe and pickling in citirc acid.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50999687859_fbf69fa59a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGEJp6)S Major 1509 (https://flic.kr/p/2kGEJp6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51084707927_9549d72c0b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtUk)S Major 1511 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQbtUk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The Woods metal is easily recycled for future use although I reckon the bar I have is enough for a lifetime. It is fascinating to see it melt at such a low temperature.
Polishing tomorrow.
Andy
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Is that the same material that they use for chamber casting? I have some stashed somewhere and it would be great if I could use it to bend pipes without kinking them.
Tony
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Hi Tony, I am not familiar with chamber casting but going by what I have just read on the Internet it seems similar.
The brand name Cerrosafe featured in the articles I read.
Andy
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Steam pipe polished and fitted
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51017308060_b13ed3f455_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJe3gE)S Major 1512 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJe3gE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51001563114_d09689bb8d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGQkR5)S Major 1517 (https://flic.kr/p/2kGQkR5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
This seemingly straightforward little pipe took me a few hours to make and fit, however, I'm pleased with the result.
Andy
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Hours well spent. Looks beautiful.
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Beautiful job on the steam pipe :ThumbsUp: and the rest of course :popcorn: :popcorn: Terry
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The steam pipe does look really nice! It certainly adds to the overall look of the engine.
Kim
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Thanks Gary, Kim & Terry.
I like shiny pipes with graceful bends, reckon it started with swept back exhaust pipes on motor cycles 50 years ago.
Andy
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Yep, that makes sense.
:ThumbsUp:
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Must agree Andy :agree:
Steam pipework of old, only went in 3 directions [3 planes] & when installed with quality designed and built valving is a beauty :Love: to behold......
Member here on MEM 'Pavel' is also one showing these simple [age old] principals in his various builds
What material are you intending for your 4 hole [flat face] flange gaskets?....[considering that you are using 7 BA brass correctly as both studs and bolts]
[50+ years ago, when making gaskets in Johnny Walker Proprietary sheet we would always leave 2 tabs [@180 degrees} to help with alignment of the gasket between those flanges that would never quite lineup :facepalm:]
Looking forward to following progress
Derek :cheers:
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Very nice Andy, the ensemble with valves and the new pipe looks great. I have yet ( somewhen! ) to chew on the pipe bend, good to see your success to encourage me. Dave
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:Love:
:cheers:
Don
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Hello Derek, I have a few gasket material offcuts to choose from.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51087483711_5a2bca0fbb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQqH3F)S Major 1519 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQqH3F) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A few miles away in Alcester there is a gasket manufacturer where I have been able to obtain samples.
https://www.sjginternational.com/about-us/
For these flanges I intend to use a thin gasket and a sealant, probably Wellseal.
I'm interested in your comment "considering that you are using 7 BA brass correctly as both studs and bolts" because I genuinely thought that brass studs would be at greater risk of shearing off and intended to replace them with steel. Brass was going to be temporary while I have been searching for 7 ba in stainless steel but it seems that 7ba is a non-preferred size, I should have worked that out in advance and chosen a different thread. However, if it is advantageous to use brass fasteners here I'll tidy up the studs and use them?
Do you have a predilection for a drop of Scotch as suggested by "making gaskets in Johnny Walker Proprietary sheet", I suspect James Walker was the manufacturer? ;)
Thanks very much for your interest and I look forward to hearing from you.
Also cheers to Don and Dave :cheers:
Andy
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A Stuart Major for sale on eBay, ends today 1st April at 9.00pm.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXHIBITION-QUALITY-STUART-TURNER-MAJOR-BEAM-ENGINE/284232380821
The advert includes a link to a YouTube video of the engine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLdK_fwJK_M
Andy
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It didn't sell, and has been relisted. Personally, I think it looks a little 'busy'. I started making a pierced steel walkway for mine until I realised that the Stuart Beam is based on a small engine, which probably wouldn't have been big enough to have had a walkway anyway.
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Hello John,
this YouTube video of a Stuart Major with a walkway that fascinated me, I wonder how it was made, perhaps it was cut by laser, any ideas?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOTB5CSpspw
Andy
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I share some of John's reservations about the high levels of detail, but have seen this video before and have to say it's beautiful.
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Hello John,
this YouTube video of a Stuart Major with a walkway that fascinated me, I wonder how it was made, perhaps it was cut by laser, any ideas?
Andy
Hi Andy. Pierced plate of any desired profile is available commercially, but we might have to buy slightly more than we need... :lolb:
John
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Walkways - I knew that a wide range of perforated grilles is available, for example James Gilbert & Son in London
https://www.jamesgilbertandson.com/decorative-grilles-perforated-grilles-c-1_8.html?osCsid=u9103uah8j80lvgv113v6tf317
However, the edges or margins are awkward to get right. I have copied a couple of still from the YouTube video that I referred to in my previous post No 411.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51091515334_b3f4bafeef_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQMnvq)ST Major pierced walkway 1 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQMnvq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51091527802_5f2ef56d92_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQMrdo)ST Major pierced walkway 2 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQMrdo) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
To me it seems the walkway has been custom made leaving solid edges all round and neat little areas for supporting the stanchions. I'm hoping someone can tell me how it was done.
When I started my build seven years ago I planned to form a planked walkway like this....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51091452226_a5a6d621bb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQM3Km)Stuart Major (23) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQM3Km) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
or this.....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51091995943_e260a72bb3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQPQnM)IMG_3286_1[1] (https://flic.kr/p/2kQPQnM) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I have great difficulty making up my mind when it comes to these details and colour schemes with the engines I have built.
Andy
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I understand your dilemma. I'm going to keep my engine as designed by Mr Taylor: he used the KISS principle!
John
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Hi Andy, my feeling about the accesorising , platforms and so on, is that although the examples that you show are nicely done, there are two snags ( and call that three if one counts all the extra work involved!) All the extra bits tend to distract rather from the interest of the engine itself, but more importantly, this is not all that big as a prototype engine! A small pair of wooden steps would get the engineman to all the places that he needed to oil and inspect. The beautiful Major Beam that had won a Gold medal at Sandown a few years ago had none of this gubbins, just a simple but nice base and plinth, and it looked marvellous. Dave
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Hi Andy, my feeling about the accesorising , platforms and so on, is that although the examples that you show are nicely done, there are two snags ( and call that three if one counts all the extra work involved!) All the extra bits tend to distract rather from the interest of the engine itself, but more importantly, this is not all that big as a prototype engine! A small pair of wooden steps would get the engineman to all the places that he needed to oil and inspect. The beautiful Major Beam that had won a Gold medal at Sandown a few years ago had none of this gubbins, just a simple but nice base and plinth, and it looked marvellous. Dave
Agreed.
John
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"7 BA brass correctly as both studs and bolts" ...Andy....I suspect the actual machines used both Studs and Bolts here
If you consider 2 flanges with an effective 90 degree rotation in the spool, when attempting to install onto 2 sets of studs, physical interference between the studs and the holes on the flanges will occur...........[unless the flange stud holes were grossly oversized :Mad:]
Same geometry scenario if you solder a similar tube spool without using steel/brass shim as spacers to set the alignment thickness of the gaskets ........the tube spool would be stressed and out of alignment when attempting to bolt up the spool to the mating components
With respect to the gasket material...yes tongue in cheek as I clearly remember the James Walker Graphited Woven square section gasket material was in Maroon + Silver cardboard box's.....
All of these gasket materials suitable for 500 PSI & 150 degrees C water/steam/oil will be absolutely fine for our applications, considering we are using far lower applicational limits.. Garlock suggest paper or synthetic gaskets are best installed with talcum powder :disagree:....a number of dedicated enthusiasts suggest oiled heavy brown paper is all that is needed
Image 3286 as below is a paint tone very familiar from British built machinery for the last Century...the heavy 'oiled' wooden floor planking is also outstandingly prototypical and effective
Derek
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"7 BA brass correctly as both studs and bolts" ...Andy....I suspect the actual machines used both Studs and Bolts here
SNIP
Derek
My ME life changed a little when I discovered that M2.5 is almost identical to 7BA...
John
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The Boiler Feed Pump, one of the last few components for me to make.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132797289_d1dbd0669c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqXcg)Feed Pump (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqXcg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132797304_b81f2cd45d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqXcw)Feed Pump Parts (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqXcw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51131346472_a7ca8b6c0a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUivVb)Feed pump rod & plunger (https://flic.kr/p/2kUivVb) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I was forewarned by Alan 'Steamhead' reply 49 way back in February 2016:
"If you look at the pump drawing (item 90) you will see the top dimension is 7/16 X 40 It should be 7/16 X 26. Not a huge problem but it does have one scratching ones head at first".
"...when you come to do the pump.
When at it's highest point I found the piston rod (84) was out of its guide in the main pump body, so effectively there would be no packing gland. To fix, I made sure that the bottom plug (89) was no more than the 0.125" spec., then made the piston 3" rather than the 2 29/32" spec. The top stuffing gland is 1/2" spec.depth into the body, best to reduce this to 0.4375".(and also the gland by 1/16"). If the piston bottoms out then you might need take take a smidgeon of the bottom of it. (If, like me, you did the assembly with the stuffing gland in situ , then put the piston in,you would not notice there was anything wrong)".
The pump body was held in a three jaw chuck and on a faceplate for machining.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51109283254_428259a67c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSmrhS)S Major 1520 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSmrhS) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Milling the top of the plunger.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132026206_435c4d3faa_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUmZYJ)S Major 1524 (https://flic.kr/p/2kUmZYJ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I have made the plunger slightly longer to give me some flexibility with the distance between centres of the pump rod which will have to be calculated to suit my engine given Alan's experience.
Machining completed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132802279_b1840f4a7c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqYFi)S Major 1530 (https://flic.kr/p/2kUqYFi) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132026081_815e734835_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUmZWz)S Major 1531 (https://flic.kr/p/2kUmZWz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used two 5/16" diameter stainless steel balls for the valves and graphited yarn for packing the gland. The pump worked very well when I tested it this afternoon now I'll have to work out how to make connections to the pump which are beneath the bedplate and there's a bit of 1/4" copper pipe bending to do as well for the pump outlet.
The pump is to be fastened to the bedplate with three 6BA bolts, I haven't drilled the bedplate yet, the engine will have to be dismantled for that. The engine is substantially complete and turns over very freely without any slack bearings, I havent fitted any gaskets or used any sealant so far but it makes encouraging wheezing sounds so I hope everything stays like that when I put it back together after painting.
Andy
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Hi Andy, and thanks for the dimension advice. Mine came with a part machined pump which I have yet to look at. Given the standard of the rest of of the supplied bits then I might just have to make a new one!
I'm spitting blood at the moment as the little stirrup I made for the governor has disappeared from the face of the earth!
Regards
John
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Hello John, as expected being cast iron my pump rusted overnight and pumped some mucky water at first when I tried it out today. I think a brass or gunmetal body would be preferable should you need to fabricate a replacement.
How frustrating to lose a part of the governor that probably took a while to make.
Cheers
Andy
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Spring has sprung.....grass has ris.....I wonder where the stirrup is :Lol: Terry
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On the clack valve on your pump Andy, the top is circular but impossible to turn on the lathe. How did you do it?
Jo
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Jo, if you click on the image it will open in Flickr, then click the full screen icon and all will be revealed when you can see it's not a turned finish
Following along this one quietly and not so quietly John's. Does seem a bit odd that they should do the pimp in iron rather than bronze or GM, maybe they don't expect many to use it.
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Hello Jo,
the flat of the iron casting above the delivery valve was machined on the lathe as the main pump body was held in a three jaw chuck. However, the circular rim would have needed a special tool to be made so that part of the casting was cleaned up by filing.
Good to know you’re looking in, you too Jason.
Andy
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the flat of the iron casting above the delivery valve was machined on the lathe as the main pump body was held in a three jaw chuck. However, the circular rim would have needed a special tool to be made so that part of the casting was cleaned up by filing.
Thanks Andy,
That's what I suspected but you may have had a clever trick up your sleeve so always worth checking ;)
Jo
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I have just noticed that Jason was using Inspector Clouseau speak when he referred to ..."the pimp in iron" [reply 425] :lolb:
"Not now Kato"
Andy
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It does seem odd that the feed pump is body is cast iron, when Stuart's standard practice for other engines going back many years, is to use gunmetal.
Cast iron for this one isn't a recent change, its shown as such in catalogues back as far as 1995/96 at least. It wouldn't be a difficult change just to make it gunmetal, the same pattern would do, the different shrinkage in such a small casting would be negligible, and I doubt the material cost difference would be much, not compared to the moulding cost anyway.
One to take up with the Stuart chaps at the next exhibition (this year do you think?), they always seem ready to talk sensibly about their products.
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Yes if Stuart are at the Midland Model Engineering show (14/10 - 17/10/21) I’ll ask them.
Meanwhile I’ll see if I have bronze that could be used to fabricate a pump.
Andy
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Working on my Stuart Major has been sidelined by other model engineering projects and boiler tests recently. However, after several hours work I completed the pump rod yesterday.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227294768_e2dafe48f2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Mh19)Pump Rod (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Mh19) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used a length of 5/8" diameter steel which was sufficient to form the eye at the top of the rod. The two flats were milled on the 'eye end' down to a thickness of 1/4" and the other end was milled to 5/16" square. The milled ends were generous lengths to facilitate holding the rod for filing later on.
Ready for the pivots to be drilled at each end.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51228145905_5626b0ba43_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3RD1V)
Machining the 5/8" bar down to abot 1/4" diameter in preparation for machining the fish bellied profile.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4y5](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227838224_69bb25602c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3RD1V)S Major 1541 (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4y5) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Machining the rod between centres using the lathe's taper turning attachment to form the fish bellied profile. The rod had to be supported by a fixed steady because it was easily deflected by the cutting tool as the section being fish bellied was about 6.1/2" long
and only 1/4" diameter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227290153_077c617402_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3MfCz)S Major 1546 (https://flic.kr/p/2m3MfCz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I milled the 1/8" slot in the lower end then filed both ends to shape using filing buttons. A thin wall bronze bush was made and fitted in the top end then the rod was ready to fit to the engine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227289983_b16ca0ef2a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3MfzD)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4x3](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227838164_e1d56fa867_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3MfzD)
I think there are very few parts remaining to be made but I haven't fitted any gaskets or sealant, that will be done as the engine is painted and re-assembled.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4wg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51227838119_33a67bff13_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4x3)S Major 1555 (https://flic.kr/p/2m3Q4wg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Looking amazing!
:ThumbsUp:
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Andy, the pump rod looks great! As does the whole engine. Won't be long now!
Kim
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Great progress Andy, good to see you back 'on it'.
John
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Such marvellous craftsmanship. Humbling and inspirational.
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Well Gary, Kim, John and Stuart thanks for the compliments, 'back on it' but interrupted and distracted by this steam plant which was a joint purchase with my friend last week.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51254037888_0c16b1030f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m69kNq)
As Kim said, “it won’t be long now’. I think I should be able to remove the Major's cylinder assembly leaving the rest of the engine intact then fit gaskets and seals to make it steam tight, replace the cylinder and test it with some compressed air. However, I have some jobs on our house that I must get on with to prepare for a plasterer at the end of the month.
Andy (https://flic.kr/p/2m69kNq)
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Well that is a fine and chunky-looking plant. Very nice.
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Chunky indeed Gary, it’s heavy enough to be a two man lift, the steel and aluminium base is the problem so it will be dismantled and rearranged on a new compact base.
Andy
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Thought I would keep this build log alive by adding this YouTube video of the engine driven by an electric motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpipnyRw6Vc
The arrangement was lashed up this afternoon so that I could watch and listen to check for any problems. I'm satisfied with the way the engine turns over and have enjoyed watching the video over and over, the unedited version lasted fifteen minutes.
There are still many details to attend to and various parts need to be trimmed or fettled before it is ready for steam let alone painting.
Andy
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Astounding. It is a thing of beauty. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I love these larger engines. If I can sell my remaining unused sidecar that money may go towards something like this. Fascinating to watch all the motion. Great progress I say.
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Hi Stuart, thanks for that. :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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That's wonderful to see the engine turning over beautifully, and at just the right sort of speed: with mine still in bits for so long now, I had half forgotten just how interesting it looked with so many parts visibly moving, it is a kinetic feast for the eyes! It's a lovely design of older engine as a static showpiece, but it comes to life in abundance when it turns over. Doubt that mine will steam, but my thoughts are to build an electric drive into the base, and seeing your video confirms that idea. Dave
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8) Nice. That would look good running in the house for when visitors came.
Did I mention we haven't (yet) acquired a set of Stuart Major Beam Castings :embarassed:
Jo
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Very nice.
John
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Hi Dave, Jo and John, thanks for the positive comments.
Jo, I would like to have an engine or two displayed in our house but they are strictly prohibited by the Memsahib, although in my own Study I was allowed one tiny Kontax Stirling engine. I read both your comment and Dave's to her but to no avail, it has always been like that.
Andy
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Andy, no such unreasonable constraints limit the display of quite a lot of engineering artifacts in this house, including a beautiful 5" gauge loco in my living room, built by and very kindly left to me by an old friend. BUT, I do end up having to cook my own tea each evening, so maybe there are trade offs to these alternative ways of life! But perhaps you could try the tack that the insurers insist that such a valuable and desirable model as your fine beam engine must be kept within the security of the house itself ...? ! Dave
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Dave, that 5" gauge loco is magnificent and on display in your living room too, very nice.
I'll show the Memsahib your picture but won't hold out much hope. I will accept the trade off, I rather enjoyed the sirloin steak with stuffed portobello mushrooms dinner this evening.
Are many other model engineers not allowed to keep their engines in the house?
Andy
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I could keep your Major Beam in my house :mischief:
Jo
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Well that's very generous of you Jo!
Andy :wine1:
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Dave, that 5" gauge loco is magnificent and on display in your living room too, very nice.
I'll show the Memsahib your picture but won't hold out much hope. I will accept the trade off, I rather enjoyed the sirloin steak with stuffed portobello mushrooms dinner this evening.
Are many other model engineers not allowed to keep their engines in the house?
Andy
This one's in the conservatory, and that's where it's likely to stay!
(https://i.imgur.com/D35Nb5T.jpg)
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Looks good, have you tried to get it in your house and staying in the conservatory is a stalemate?
Andy
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Dave, that 5" gauge loco is magnificent and on display in your living room too, very nice.
I'll show the Memsahib your picture but won't hold out much hope. I will accept the trade off, I rather enjoyed the sirloin steak with stuffed portobello mushrooms dinner this evening.
Are many other model engineers not allowed to keep their engines in the house?
Andy
This one's in the conservatory, and that's where it's likely to stay!
(https://i.imgur.com/D35Nb5T.jpg)
Magnificent! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :NotWorthy: :praise2:
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Looks good, have you tried to get it in your house and staying in the conservatory is a stalemate?
Andy
Hi Andy. It was allowed into the living room while the Stirling Single was in the conservatory, and as soon as that was sold out it went!
John
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Just over a year since I posted on my Stuart Major.
Last Summer I dismantled the engine for painting, finishing its base and attending to various details. There has been progress but the workflow was interrupted by other model engine projects and projects around our house and garden. It might take a few posts to bring the build log up to date. I'm slowly putting it back together again hoping to take it to an event in September (2022). The engine is to be steamed so I want to ensure the base is absolutely rigid when it is carried out to the garden.... and two of us can comfortably lift it.
The paint is Graphite Grey, I liked the finish when I used it on my Retlas engine and partly because I had plenty left over.
Here are pictures of,
The cylinder lubricator,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51928708146_62024e104e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n7LcLf)Cylinder lubricator fitted (https://flic.kr/p/2n7LcLf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51914444341_e4e7fcfe83_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n6v6Cz)S Major 1571 (https://flic.kr/p/2n6v6Cz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51929336560_6278372970_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n7PqyY)S Major 1579 (https://flic.kr/p/2n7PqyY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
My cardboard Spray Booth
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032107446_f0a2683bc5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngU9LN)Central column ready for painting in my spray booth / cardboard box (https://flic.kr/p/2ngU9LN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52031065197_1ce94e8566_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngNNWZ)Central column - coat of primer (https://flic.kr/p/2ngNNWZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032107386_126f943e22_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ngU9KL)The beam with its final coat of graphite grey enamel paint. (https://flic.kr/p/2ngU9KL) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The engine in pieces,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161543289_99ddc1fe0c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ntkxxg)S Major 1597 (https://flic.kr/p/2ntkxxg) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161307991_372fa0dfbe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ntjkAp)S Major 1598 (https://flic.kr/p/2ntjkAp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52221131775_52585f79d6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX7X)S Major 1605 (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX7X) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hi Andy, good to see you posting Major pics again.
John
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A major rework for sure.
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Regards John & KVOM. I wonder whether this build could be the slowest on MEM - 8 years 9 months so far.
Having made the hardwood plinth years ago I felt committed to staying with the wood finish. The base is part of a ten foot long laboratory bench top which is sturdy but with many defects that I had to cover. The top was covered with 2mm Walnut strip wood intended for model boat building.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161309478_99ba4a346c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ntjm33)S Major 1594 (https://flic.kr/p/2ntjm33) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161543224_af413fe120_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ntkxw9)S Major 1600 (https://flic.kr/p/2ntkxw9) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I then added 2" square teak to the edges, it was cut from an 8' x 30" x 2" piece of teak that came from the bar of a pub I bought at a bargain price, wood like that is almost impossible to obtain these days. I machined and moulded the wood with a router.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52219636092_99723e8d2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nythvj)S Major 1603 (https://flic.kr/p/2nythvj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Followed with five coats of Rustins Plastic Coating which is very durable in my experience and can be polished to a high finish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52221131650_425d31cd6e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX5N)S Major 1604 (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX5N) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Then burnished using car paint cutting compound.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52221131705_e5beb588f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX6K)S Major 1613 (https://flic.kr/p/2nyAX6K) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52220656158_9929b09301_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nyyvJE)S Major 1614 (https://flic.kr/p/2nyyvJE) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Thinking of how to lift and move the model I added more 2x2 teak to the underside of the base with holes that metal bars can be passed through.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52236356101_5068b023f8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzWYMk)S Major 1627 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzWYMk) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52236633869_50c7efcc85_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzYpmr)S Major 1628 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzYpmr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Hello Andy,
the wooden base looks fantastic 👍.
You are very good at building machine sockets. when I think of the base made of ceramic tiles. Having holes to carry the machine is a good idea.
I think the whole thing will weigh a few kilograms.
Michael
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Hello Andy, the engine progress is looking very good: the rather Myford like grey, with a black base, is a nice colour for a steam engine. I did my Stuart Turner steam hammer that colour and felt it suited it. Also I think that painting the column is a good choice - though a polished effect can look attractive, in reality it would never have been done that way, it would have been a massive casting just filled and painted. With the substantial base, the model will have some serious weight! Pleased to see that your Major is very near completion now. Dave
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Good morning Michael and Dave,
Interesting to see John ‘Simplyloco’ sold his Major on eBay last night I expect many of us watched the auction.
I considered polishing the column like John’s but decided it would be difficult to keep it looking smart as I intend to run the engine on steam and it will be kept in the garage.
As I rebuild the engine I’m replacing steel fasteners with stainless to avoid the problem of tarnished nuts and bolts. I am also making several nuts with greater height which look more period than commercially made nuts.
Andy
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I wanted to have the option to use the boiler feed pump, not necessarily for filling a boiler but perhaps to recirculate water from a small tank alongside the engine but it's a bit awkward having the inlet and outlet connections to the pump inside the plinth as per the drawings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52243801749_746176d073_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nAB97z)S Major 1630 (https://flic.kr/p/2nAB97z) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
View of the pump connections beneath the bedplate,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52230183089_eae3244e15_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzpkL6)S Major 1617 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzpkL6) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used 1/4" diameter copper tube and these 1/4" 'push fit' elbows so that I could reach inside the plinth from below to make the connections or take them apart if necessary. It would be very difficult to tighten up threaded fittings as there isn't much room inside the plinth. These fittings release by pushing the collar inwards. I bought them from 'Context Pneumatic Supplies' on eBay and they are genuine Imperial sizes.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52234683090_43ee25745d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzNpsj)S Major 1636 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzNpsj) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
These are the connections I made for the end of the plinth.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52229912731_a4a059261c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nznXoK)S Major 1620 (https://flic.kr/p/2nznXoK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Viewed from above.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52234683095_1f2685e396_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzNpsp)S Major 1625 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzNpsp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52234477019_47291c36ca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzMmcn)S Major 1621 (https://flic.kr/p/2nzMmcn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
A video of the pump working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k780oJyzX7s
Andy
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Gapped and fitted the cast iron piston rings for the first time this afternoon.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52250833312_455c9de423_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBebmq)S Major 1635 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBebmq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
As expected it was awkward getting the piston and its rings into the cylinder because of the 5/16" step arrowed in the drawing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52252091394_a677b03dc1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBkCku)S Major 1636 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBkCku) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52251835606_f6ec8e5cd9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjjim)S Major 1645 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjjim) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I also formed the exhaust pipe using 1/2" diameter copper tube and lots of heat. I was able to bend the thick walled tube round a 1.1/4" diameter bar without kinks, perhaps I was lucky. The brass flange was silver soldered on the end followed by lots of polishing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52251822988_13007088f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjfxN)S Major 1641 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjfxN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52251806426_80f778db79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjaCf)S Major 1643 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBjaCf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52252091354_9c9f1376af_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBkCjN)S Major 1640 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBkCjN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Thats looking great, nice work on the exhaust pipe
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Thanks Sam, something to polish..
I decided to replace the twelve domed nuts I was using to hold the base down on the wooden plinth and made taller full nuts in the style that were used on full size stationary engines and machine tools such as a Ward 2A capstan lathe that I used to own.
The dome nuts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52263695349_bb3ecb3518_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn6MF)S Major 1647 (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn6MF) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
My home made nuts - 2BA stainless hex with M4 thread which I had to use for the thread inserts in the wooden plinth..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52263695389_3ea06a1301_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn6Nn)S Major 1646 (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn6Nn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Reassembly has been hampered by paint obscuring marks that identified which bearing went where.
Without paint the X and O punch marks could be seen on the castings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52263741004_fc12621bd5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCnkmQ)Marks (https://flic.kr/p/2nCnkmQ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
After painting the punch marks were obscured so I had to carefully scrape paint off to work out what went where. It did make a difference to the fit of the axle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52263889830_26c843a355_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCo6AN)IMG_4919 (https://flic.kr/p/2nCo6AN) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The Beam in position.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52262438622_5a20661b9c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCfEcY)IMG_4923 (https://flic.kr/p/2nCfEcY) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52263679534_5a5a1ab9f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn261)IMG_4924 (https://flic.kr/p/2nCn261) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Your beam engine is looking very handsome as it comes together in its final painted and generally finished off form. Worth doing the taller, period type of nuts, they look the part. Dave
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It is looking very smart 8)
You are tempting Surus to let me have his set of the scaled down version of this engine's castings :embarassed:
Jo
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Looking good!
John
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And I thought it looked very good before paint ....
But now it's a Museum Quality piece :praise2: :praise2:
Per
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Hello Jo, you wrote, if I interpret that correctly, there is a small variant of the "Major Beam".
Are the castings Stuart Turner too?
Some time ago I bought a model was someone else started. That looks similar to the big one.
Michael
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Andy, I really like the look of the machine. I'm excited! 👍
Michael
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Hello Jo, you wrote, if I interpret that correctly, there is a small variant of the "Major Beam".
Are the castings Stuart Turner too?
Some time ago I bought a model was someone else started. That looks similar to the big one.
Michael
That is the ME beam engine redesigned by Oliver Smith H.A.Taylor back in 1968. Stuart took his design simplified it, enlarged it and so was born the Major Beam ;)
Castings and drawings are available from a number of sources including Reeves.
Jo
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I thought the major Beam was based on George Gentry's engine form about 1914 and that the ME beam was also a rework of that.
Nice finish on the paintwork, I have a similar spray booth to yours and they seem to work well :)
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A bit of history:
George Gentry originally designed a beam engine for Model engineer in January to June 1914. H.A.Taylor re-designed it in June 1968.
He intentionally removed the countershaft drive and provided it instead with a triple rope pulley, this eliminated the gear driving mechanism and reduced the mounting arrangements. For his castings he borrowed the original patterns held by S.M.E.E and had Stuart Turner cast them for him. The patterns for the gunmetal parts had been lost so he made these from bar stock rather than castings. Where the original design used 64ths his redesign sought to eliminate those and he created a new set of drawings.
It was Taylor's design that Stuart took and scaled up for their Major beam engine.
Jo
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Thank you for the information.
Michael
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Hi Jo, just been having a quick look at the ME mags from 1968 in which H A Taylor wrote up his award winning beam engine.
The Major based on his engine is nominally at 1 1/2" scale, and the M.E. Beam engine is at 1" scale, actually quite fiddly with the many small parts involved, especially in the parallel motion.
Mr Taylor, as you say, used the SMEE patterns presumably dating from the work of Geo. Gentry pre 1914, and held historically by the Society. The drawings given by Mr Taylor in the ME for his own engine are to the 1 1/2" scale, from which I presume that the old original patterns and the medal winning engine built by him were at that larger scale. So although Stuart Turner certainly made their own patterns, and also for the various castings they supply, for components for which H.A.T. used his own fabricated versions , I think that it could be said that the Major's scale was already established in Mr Taylor's model and some of his design drawings, rather than scaled up in size by Stuart Turner ?
I have , but can't find quickly!, the ME mags with the 1" scale beam engine in them: I seem to remember that Edgar Westbury presented the articles, c. 1960?
I believe that there were quite significant mistakes in the smaller drawings, don't know if they were corrected in the purchased drawings over the years..? Dave
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It's crazy.
I wondered if I got plans for Beam back then about 15 years ago?
And indeed they were in the folder for beam machines. With a book.
There is a year number from 1959.
Michael
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Hello Michael, you do seem to be fortunate in having already the information that you are needing to build this beam engine! The name or nom-de-plume, "Exactus" as far as I know, was used around that time in the Model Engineer magazine for whoever, on the staff of the magazine, was doing the technical write up. Maybe several authors involved in a collaboration on the project and the progress with the model building in the workshop of the magazine. I think that back in those days, under Percival Marshall (?) there was some sort of small workshop available on the premises. ?? Dave
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I hope that when I can retire in 12 years, the beam will start. There's still a lot of work to be done.
Michael
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Also worthy of note is that the "Exactucus" articles have drawings for the 1" version but all the photos are of the larger 1 1/2" parts which may explain why there are some errors in the drawings if they were not proven at the time. Also confirms what Dave says that the scale was set early on by Gentry and Stuarts did not enlarge things.
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Reassembly is taking much longer than expected and I'm becoming slightly excited just like Michael S :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:.
Some folk aren't interested......
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271569397_25375ff68d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD4st8)RKNG3158 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD4st8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The con rod has been refitted and the engine spins rounds quite freely. This afternoon I spent a lot of time connecting a 1/8" diameter copper tube to the drain cock fitted below the valve chest. Way back in Reply 270 July 6th 2020 et seq, I covered how to fit the valve rod in the valve chest by boring and and threading a 7/16" hole in the bottom of the chest so that the valve rod can be passed through then sealed with a threaded plug. As I intend to run the engine on steam it seemed a drain cock would be useful beneath the steam chest.
My concern is that condensate could collect in the bottom of the valve chest and cause corrosion. Should the drain cock prove to be impractical it is easily removed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271496712_195f629eb9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD45RW)S Major 1655 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD45RW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I used a Stuart Turner Union Cock because I haven't had much success with my home made plug cocks. However there wasn't much space to get the necessary bends in the copper tube. A hole could be drilled in the baseplate directly below the cock but I didn't want to have another pipe running through the base or take the engine apart again to drill the baseplate.
The tight bends from the drain cock are followed by a curve around the base of the cylinder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52272465446_e58fbdc8d8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD93Qf)S Major 1660 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD93Qf) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271496657_8f5e3ea0e5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD45QZ)S Major 1658 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD45QZ) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52272486468_93d10e5575_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD9a5G)S Major 1659 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD9a5G) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Have yet to decide where to route the tubes after leaving the bedplate, that can be done later.
Andy
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Reassembly is taking much longer than expected and I'm becoming slightly excited just like Michael S :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:.
Some folk aren't interested......
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271569397_25375ff68d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nD4st8)RKNG3158 (https://flic.kr/p/2nD4st8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Well, I'd say that's WAY more important than reassembling your engine. You can reassemble engines ANY time. You have to take advantage of that kind of playtime when you can get it though! That time is precious! :)
As for the drain cock in the steam chest, I can't tell you whether it's necessary or not, but I think it looks great!
Kim
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good morning Andy,
I like your workshop. Every corner is well equipped!
When my nieces (5 and 9 years old) come to visit my workshop, I always hear: boring..........
At the great Stuart No. 5A is also a valve at the bottom of the steam box. The machine only runs with steam and the condensate water can be easily drained off when the machine is cold.
Michael
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Looks like they were under strict instructions not to touch :disappointed: My Nephew started life like that now he's 18 and his mother complains bitterly that he does not show interest in doing anything :-X I recall taking him to the local show one year, there were old cars, stationary engines, traction engines and even a full sized tank someone was letting the kiddies go into - the only thing he was interested in was having a burger and even then his mother was telling him what he mustn't do :facepalm2:
Showing us the cylinder drain cock made me think: Most model steam engine designers don't add drain cocks so clearly are not designing their models for running on steam :thinking:
Jo
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Plenty of full size that don't have drains on the valve chest, look at many single cylinder traction engines and they only have drains on the cylinder ends such as my Fowler. Maybe the steam carries the condensate through when the cylinder cocks are open rather than it sitting in the bottom of the chest? If you are designing a model to a specific prototype then most would try to match the original.
It's also possible to have a remote cock on the end of a pipe when space is a bit tight.
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I think with steam tractors the steam box is directly on the boiler and therefore always hot during operation. As a result, little condensate occurs.
With an external supply of steam, a lot of condensate comes to the machine, which is also still cold. With the drain valve, the steam can be preheated in the cylinder and the steam box and drained at the same time.
Michael
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Applies to stationary engines just as much with plenty not having them, things like my Tidman organ engine, Cameron Pump and the Easton and Anderson Beam engine all had cylinder drains on the full size but none had chest drains so I just went for the best representation of the original when I designed mine and did not fit chest drains.
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My stuart 5a has a drain on the valve chest and it helps with initial heating on the full size stationary that i run quite a few of them
have drains on the valve chests the twin cylinder piston valve engines all have drains on the valve chamber which Make warming up much better .any that don't have drains on the valve chest take longer to get hot if they did not have any drains at all they would not be very good to run on steam even when the drain cocks are only small it is not easy to get condensation out to let steam heat the cylinder for turning over for starting.
john
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Hi Kim, yes indeed precious time, they are my grandchildren, and as you said Jo told not to touch things by my son.
I used to own a Merryweather Valiant Steam Pump that had a remote drain valve for the valve chest as Jason suggested, in this case remote because it was much safer away from the motion and hot boiler. The drain point is arrowed in the following picture.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52274307420_658c3edc0c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiuoq)Drain (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiuoq) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Remote drain cock.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52274045779_7073c70ca4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDh9Bn)Flywheel (https://flic.kr/p/2nDh9Bn) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Me steaming the Merryweather at the annual Birmingham Science Museum Steam Rally in 1992 when the original museum was in Newhall Street. I think I saw Graham 'Alyn Foundry' with some of his engines at one of those rallies.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52273785796_ff2c989633_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDfPjU)At Birmingham Science Museum Rally 1992 (https://flic.kr/p/2nDfPjU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The engine just before I sold it about ten years ago.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52274271865_28f187c146_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiiPp)On it's trolley (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiiPp) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The bronze water pump, it used two five inch diameter leather washers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52274271855_e6d7d6eb2a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiiPe)Pump (https://flic.kr/p/2nDiiPe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Merryweather in action at the Birmingham Society of Model Engineers. I was using the canvas hose for the first time but it was full of holes and John Walker got soaked :lolb: Fortunately the Fire Brigade rigged up one of their hoses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oYLkqgjMrI
Excuse me for going 'off piste'.
I agree with Jo that many model engineers don't want to run their engines on steam, it is messy and in the case of a Stuart Major a fair sized boiler might be required which is why I built a 6" Vertical Boiler.
https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5434.0.html
My plan is to pair the boiler with the Major it's just taken years longer than I imagined.
Andy
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Showing us the cylinder drain cock made me think: Most model steam engine designers don't add drain cocks so clearly are not designing their models for running on steam :thinking:
Perhaps, but not necessarily. Small engines can be happy enough just blowing the condensate up the stack. The 1/32 scale live steamer in my avatar is one example of an engine that runs on steam without any drain cocks. But if it were bigger they would be easier to add and I would want them.
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Andy, you said….
“ it’s just taken years longer than I imagined “
I’ve just realised that my Brayton Ready-Motor project has entered its 18th year….
I’m probably partially to blame for some of the time you lost but you did end up with three beautifully presented models!!
Oops, is it 5 ??
:cheers: Graham
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Ah yes Graham, the Retlas, Robinson HA, Inverted Chuk and Allman were all started and completed while building the Major plodded along. I also have Robinson Chippy castings and another Chuk to start. My RLE and Gardner O Type were completed before I treated myself to the Major castings as a retirement present.
Did you exhibit at Birmingham Science Museum Stationary Engine rally about 30 years ago, we were in a yard at the back of the museum ? I’m sure someone was there with Alyn Foundry engines
Andy
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You’ve forgotten about your beautiful Retlas dynamo Andy. :)
No, not me, a little too far South. I’m guessing at Martin Lorenzo? He used to visit another venue, something to to with historic buildings??
:cheers: Graham.
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Ok Graham perhaps it was Martin Lorenzo, he certainly exhibited at the Avoncroft Museum of Buildings around 15 years ago when our club (Wychavon Oil Engine & Preservation Society) used to put on a stationary engine rally there every year.
Andy
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Having fitted the cast iron piston rings for the first time I have been concerned by the added friction which was rather more than I expected. However, they are the rings supplied with the kit and I gapped them appropriately.
After the parallel motion was re-assembled I'd be able to judge whether the engine was too tight.
Assembling the parallel motion was a real pain. I made all the parts according to the drawings, perhaps I should have simplified things. I reckon two pairs of hands would have been so useful. The small bronze split bearings kept falling out from one side as I grappled with the other. It's remarkable how far these pesky little bits can travel after landing on the floor. Anyway I managed to fit it together without wrecking the paintwork but it took about three hours including searching for bits on the floor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52281736699_d37fefa403_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDXyRr)S Major 1663 (https://flic.kr/p/2nDXyRr) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52281469991_7c5e12cd6b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDWcz2)S Major 1666 (https://flic.kr/p/2nDWcz2) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52281951170_5ea0f824ca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDYEBd)S Major 1665 (https://flic.kr/p/2nDYEBd) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here's a YouTube video of the current state of play taken this evening, you can probably see the slowing of the movement as the piston travels up and down in the cylinder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFSk9Patb4Y
I'll have the engine running like that while I do other jobs in the garage over the weekend.
Andy
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The engine was driven by an electric motor for about ten hours over the weekend to bed in the piston rings. If I put my hand over the ports on the cylinder valve face the sucking and blowing seemed pretty good and the engine turns over quite easily.
The next stage was to reassemble and time the valve gear.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52287297947_a51fa5a514_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEs522)S Major 1667 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEs522) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52288273926_5c94ec747b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEx59f)S Major 1668 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEx59f) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I haven't used any gaskets so far, I'm relying on Wellseal which is easy to take apart should the need arise.
Andy
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Great progress towards seeing your engine finally completed Andy: looking marvellous. Understand completely your exasperation with the parallel motion and its mass of tiny pieces, I have kept my assembly as one "lump" all together while the engine languishes forever in the "paint shop", the brasses and other bits are too small to try and mark individually. I will try and do a once and for all reassembly on the engine when the time comes... ( On the brighter side, have just made all of the ball-ended lever handles for my Quorn grinder, another 75% done, long term "lurker" !) Dave
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Hello Andy,
I have had good experience with cardboard/paper (0.2 - 0.3 mm thick).
Then coated with a mixture of steam oil and graphite for operation under steam. That always worked well and was tight.
But that makes beautiful black fingernails 😏
Michael
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Hi Michael, I am using gaskets between the pipe flanges, jointing compound would be messy in those locations.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290456073_ecf46431c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfPt)S Major 1669 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfPt) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
This is my gasket cutting kit,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290719179_f0198d302a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEKB2M)S Major 1671 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEKB2M) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Years ago at the 1,000 Engine Rally in Cheshire I bought the tools for cutting holes from a Dutch trader. They have been very useful although I don't know what their real purpose was, perhaps for cutting holes in corks in a laboratory?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290449991_3f8aa3f90b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJe1B)S Major 1672 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJe1B) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
The engine is almost ready to test on compressed air.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290456018_5b792db5f6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfNw)S Major 1673 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfNw) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290449941_f0198d302a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJdZK)S Major 1675 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJdZK) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290455943_ca09574152_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfMe)S Major 1676 (https://flic.kr/p/2nEJfMe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Those are known as cork borers, originally for punching holes in cork or rubber stoppers for pipettes, now common as general gasket/etc hole punches.
Great looking assemblies! :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Thanks for confirming that Crueby, now I see them for sale on the Internet. :ThumbsUp:
Andy
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It works :ThumbsUp:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xIffSPzvuI
I couldn't resist trying it out with compressed air last night, I'm very pleased that the engine ran straight away. However, it's not finished yet, the slide valve, particularly the timing need adjustment and the bearings at the top of the connecting rod are too slack hence knocking. Strange because the bearings were ok when it was driven by an electric motor. The governor hasn't been refitted because it gets in the way when making adjustments to the eccentric / valve timing. At the moment the piston is certainly double acting but the exhaust only chuffs at one end of the stroke.
Exasperation with the Parallel Motion is an understatement Dave, I tried to keep mine in 'one lump' as much as possible but those pesky little split bearings kept escaping.
Andy
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Even if it isn't quite there yet - it's good to see it run again :ThumbsUp:
Per
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Thanks Per, it is a relief too.
Andy
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It runs nice and slowly, that's for sure. I'm sure you'll get it running the way you want soon! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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It works :ThumbsUp:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xIffSPzvuI
I couldn't resist trying it out with compressed air last night, I'm very pleased that the engine ran straight away. However, it's not finished yet, the slide valve, particularly the timing need adjustment and the bearings at the top of the connecting rod are too slack hence knocking. Strange because the bearings were ok when it was driven by an electric motor. The governor hasn't been refitted because it gets in the way when making adjustments to the eccentric / valve timing. At the moment the piston is certainly double acting but the exhaust only chuffs at one end of the stroke.
Exasperation with the Parallel Motion is an understatement Dave, I tried to keep mine in 'one lump' as much as possible but those pesky little split bearings kept escaping.
Andy
I had they same 'knocking' on mine. It was the change in direction of force that showed up the slack in the bearing box. A slight increase in the packing piece thickness and all was OK!
I ended up using some heavy grease to keep the split bearings in during assembly!
Looking great by the way.
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Hi John, I’ll have a look at those con rod bearings later tomorrow. Packing might solve the issue or I may need to close up the bearing halves with a bit of judicious filing.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
a silky smooth run! I congratulate you on your success.
It is always amazing how a minimal bearing play makes itself felt so loudly. This is also due to the wooden base. It looks like a guitar case.
I re-watched your full report from the beginning, amazingly good work and precision.
Cheers Michael
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Oddly, the video is silent when I play it, even though I've checked that I haven't got 'mute' engaged. Does make for lovely quiet running with no knocking though!. Beam engines are so elegant don't you think!
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Excellent initial running on the air, must have been quite an exciting moment to see the beam engine spring to life like that . Looking at your nice detail photos a bit earlier in the list, the Major does make for a spectacular display piece. When the governor and the pump rod go back on, there will be that much more as well.
There is so much of interest to look at, in the contrast of the steel, brass and copper along with the grey paintwork, and the complexity of the component shapes with their decorative flourishes. Though they are not too easy to make, the effect of the fish-bellied rods and proper oval turned ends, and all the gibs and cotters and other refinements of component shapes pay big dividends in the pleasure of what there is to contemplate visually about the engine. Dave
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Looking good
Regarding the knock there can be a couple of reasons why it does not show when "motoring" an engine.
1 By pulling the flywheel around all forces are in the opposite direction to what they would be when using the piston to push the engine so play and knocks may not show up.
2 The motor and it's belt tend to keep a constant load on the engine so you don't quite get the same action as you get with the dead spots at TDC and BDC which is where a knock usually shows up.
3. Motoring wears metal off the tight side or surface but does not put it back onto the opposite side so holes can become elongated or oversize
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Thank you for your comments chaps
I am reasonably confident that I will be able to deal with the knocks and valve timing issues. Looking at one of the detail photographs (Major 1673) in reply 498 a significant gap can be seen between the split bearings at the top of the con rod, could be slipshod assembly work.
The eccentric link rod probably needs to be slightly lengthened to maximise valve travel. That is to have symmetrical movement of the valve lever with the handle either side of its vertical position. At the moment it is biased toward the flywheel end.
My video hasn’t captured the full embarrassing sound of the knock at TDC and BDC Liam. I can hear it if the volume is turned up to 75% and I can hear the pressure switch on my Bambi silent compressor click during the video. Perhaps the microphone on my iPhone was inadvertently covered when I shot the video.
Andy
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I had to turn up the volume knob a lot to hear it. The wooden box base may also be amplifiing things
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Another couple of videos.
I have tightened up the bearings that were slightly slack.
In the first video I have turned up the volume to highlight the knocking that is annoying me. As Michael and Jason suggested I think the wooden base combined with the metal lift table are making it sound worse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkt88S43qog
In the second video I have moved the engine on to my wooden workbench which is quite solid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTsDEjwMgrE
I think the knock is not so pronounced in this video. Perhaps I'm being fussy and I should get on with finishing and running the engine to see how it settles down. I reckon I've heard far worse on some YouTube videos.
Dave, thanks very much for your complimentary post I hope to be able to show the complete engine running on steam very soon, I might try it with a Stuart 504 boiler for a start.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
I rather hear the exhaust thump.
On the other hand, when I watch my youtube_video of my stuart beam, it is like a hammer work.
Michael
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My Stuart Major is slowly nearing completion, it has taken a while for me to stop an elusive knocking sound that was annoying me. As mentioned in an earlier post I tightened up bearings and checked all the gibs and cotters without success. By chance I noticed two 5BA nuts were slightly loose in the parallel motion. After they were tightened up the knocking had gone and watching the engine run was far more enjoyable.
This picture taken a while back in this build shows the two errant nuts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52342763417_81fb09c0b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nKmkYe)S Major 1727 (https://flic.kr/p/2nKmkYe) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Here's a recent short YouTube video, now the sound of the bevel gears that drive the governor are louder than I would like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlvToeJcEQ0
Here are a few pictures of the engine taken this afternoon,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52343892813_bfc9cc927a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nKs8Gz)S Major 1716 (https://flic.kr/p/2nKs8Gz) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52343892613_2f9af8098c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nKs8D8)S Major 1726 (https://flic.kr/p/2nKs8D8) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52343646976_1325ccf08b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nKqSC1)S Major 1712 (https://flic.kr/p/2nKqSC1) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52343913134_84bc401717_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nKseJW)S Major 1709 (https://flic.kr/p/2nKseJW) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
I need a couple of items to connect the engine to the vertical boiler shown in one of the pictures which should arrive early next week. Then, weather permitting I should be able to run the engine on steam.
Andy
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Excellent!! :cartwheel:
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Great that you found the last culprits :pinkelephant:
Per
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The Major Beam looks spectacular Andy, great to see it with the governor working now, and the pump rod in, and nearly ready to try with the steam. This has been a great project. Dave
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Hello Andy,
a true masterpiece!
I suspect it will run even smoother under steam. I wish you the best of luck with future projects.
Michael
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Thank you for your comments chaps.
To answer the question 'can a Stuart 504 boiler drive a Stuart Major?'
Here's a video of an attempt to run the engine on steam from my Stuart Turner 504 boiler this morning.
I knew that the boiler wouldn't have sufficient capacity but it was convenient to set up in my garage and interesting to see how the engine would perform. The run would have lasted longer if it wasn't for a lot of steam leaking from the valve chest. The temperature combined with steam appeared to soften the Wellseal used and blew it out from the valve chest cover.
Anyway it was worth having a go with the 504 boiler for entertainment and it revealed a couple of issues that need to be addressed before I try it with a larger boiler outside in my garden.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H8jXxVLrn0
Andy
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Excellent :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
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Oh I like that a lot! 8)
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very nice....it really underscores how much better it is running a steam engine on steam.
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Thanks again for the positive comments, I reckon I have a way to go with fine tuning and remedying various faults.
After tightening up various nuts I ran the engine again on the Stuart 504 boiler and this time it kept up with the engine running at a reasonable speed, whilst maintaining 60 psi boiler pressure. Flickr video below,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52352510854_af8e608a72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nLdixu)IMG_5042 (https://flic.kr/p/2nLdixu) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
However, the leaks were just too bad and had to be dealt with.
Steam and air was leaking from various places so I used leak detector fluid and was surprised at the extent of the leaks, particularly where I had relied on non setting sealant. To be fair the Wellseal label doesn't claim it is good for steam, whereas it has performed well on my gas engines.
Yesterday I took the valve chest apart, cleaned off the messy Wellseal and made gaskets using thin Klingersil material and fitted new packing in the valve and piston rod glands. That was a fiddly job and I only had time for a test with compressed air which seemed ok. I'll have another steam test as soon as possible.
Andy
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Nice video
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Are you using the feed pump on the engine to supply the boiler, or some other independent method?
Whatever, it looks and sounds brilliant on steam. Cylinder lubrication?
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Beautiful engine! Thanks for posting the video!
I'm sure you'll get all the leaks sorted out :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
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Cheers Kim, Kvom and Liam.
I think the boiler feed pump is capable of doing the job although I haven’t put it to the test yet Liam, it’s squirts well if I put my thumb over the end of the outlet. Depending on the boiler I have the choice of hand pumps, injector and steam powered feed pumps. Cylinder lubrication is provided by a small brass cup on top of the cylinder cover like half a tallow cup lubricator. I put steam oil in it, the screw down top is sealed with an O ring and a plug cock under the cup is opened to admit oil down into the cylinder. In theory it could be refilled while the engine is running but the parallel motion could be a danger.
If I can sort out the issues with this engine I intend to show it running next Saturday 17th at a ‘model & toy steam do’ at Winterbourne House and Gardens, Birmingham University. If the Major can’t make it I’ll take my Twin Victoria and some hot air engines. Loading and unloading the Major in my Honda CRV will be an issue as my friend who usually accompanies me is away on holiday.
Andy
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Hello Andy, well, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that this beautiful machine will make it to the exhibition. She will draw a lot of attention to herself and her builder.
Michael
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Thank you Michael.
Andy
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beautiful video, the complete steam plan is awesome at this slow running speed.
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This time demonstrating the boiler feed pump recirculating water from a tank = an aluminium enclosure that resembles a galvanised tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEZWEUniAfI
Hopefully the engine will be running for most of the day at Winterbourne House, Birmingham tomorrow 17th September.
Andy
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Hi Andy you have made a lovely job of this engine. They aren't the easiest thing to make i got one sat in a box half done!!!
If you are going to the Winterbourne Gardens today see if you can rake some pictures please I would love to go myself but tied up in a little local show
Jonathan
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Looks like you got everything working perfectly :praise2:
Enjoy the Show - and a few pictures will be apreciated :Love: :cheers:
Per
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Hello Andy,
Thanks for taking the time to talk to me today (Winterbourne Gardens). Having read you build thread the engine is so impressive but in the flesh, it is even more amazing.
Thanks again.
Steve
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Thanks for the kind comments.
and cheers Steve, thanks for attending the gathering and for your interest :ThumbsUp:
Here's a YouTube video of the engine running at Winterbourne House yesterday. It ran almost continuously for about six hours subject to interruptions when the C500 gas cartridges froze and had to be switched.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpqfMOWRh3g
The large copper condenser was made in haste last Thursday, a late addition hence the red silicon connecting tube. I had to make some arrangement for the exhaust to protect viewers and collect the condensate.
The Robinson Hot Air engine and Chuk flame gulper were there as back up in case the Major failed, they are dependable.
You might notice in part of the video bubbles at the base of the cylinder where the sealant has failed. I'll have to replace it with a proper gasket..... drat, I'll have to take it apart again!
Overall I am pleased with the performance, particularly the slow running. The next test should be running it with a larger boiler that should maintain a constant pressure but that will have to be outdoors.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
this looks like an interesting and extensive exhibition.
Were the pressure gauges from Meesing for sale? And do you happen to know if they were made by Schäffer &
Budenberg were?
Michael
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Hi Michael,
The pressure gauges were for sale, I can only see that one has Bellis & Morcom printed on the dial.
However, I know Mike - the person selling them, and can obtain his contact details for you tomorrow if you wish.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
thank you for the information. You don't need to ask the seller. I only found the prices for such pressure gauges with brass housings to be quite inexpensive.
Michael
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Morning Andy.
A superb demonstration, your models are a credit to your engineering skills and attention to detail.
:cheers: Graham.
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How do you replenish water in the boiler? Assume there's a pump somewhere.
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Hello Kvom,
Indeed I have two hand pumps alongside the boiler.
Here's a picture of the Stuart 504 boiler back at home,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52369320148_aa6b511e16_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nMGsmU)S Major 1729 (https://flic.kr/p/2nMGsmU) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/116764188@N08/), on Flickr
Andy
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Jury rigged for steaming in the garden.
My six inch vertical boiler produced plenty of steam for the Major Beam Engine.
Here the boiler is fed by an injector and two hand pumps, I want to add a steam powered feed pump for the full experience. The copper tank with a conical top is a laboratory still I bought on eBay a while ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzYuBApMgb8
Andy
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Great to see it puffing away on steam, fantastic!!
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That runs great Andy! Love it! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :cheers: