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21
Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by Kim on April 22, 2024, 05:56:40 PM »
That's a very interesting mechanism, Chris!  :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Now I just have to see how the control disk is rotated to control the pawls.  The control disks are fixed to the rotating main shaft, correct?  So that would seem to complicate controlling them a bit.  Looking forward to seeing how it all works!

Kim
22
Vehicles & Models / Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Last post by Kim on April 22, 2024, 05:46:25 PM »
Hi Kim,

Enjoying this build immensely, if quietly.

For your boiler cutout consider using a hole saw (probably bi-metal for steel) - they are cheap and low on drama if all you want is to remove most of the material and file from there.

All the best,

Martin
Thanks Martin!  ;D

Interesting idea with the hole saw...  It's just enough over a half circle to fit the drill at the center of a hole saw.  But how well does that work to cut a hole where only 60% of it is there?  Would that work OK or cause weird problems with the hole saw?  I've never tried it on a partial hole like that before.

Kim
23
Beautiful and inspirational work as usual from you George  :praise2:

Per        :cheers:
24
Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by crueby on April 22, 2024, 05:29:27 PM »
The ratchet discs have been pinned to the main shaft, so easier to show how they work. Here is one with the pawls retracted, one shown at the blue arrow. The control lever, marked in red, is in the lower position.

Here, the control lever has been moved upwards, raising all six of the pawls:

Same positions, but with the chain drum in place, shows where the pawls will push on the drum:

Working well! Next step will be to make the bushings for the inside of the chain drums - the center hole in them is larger than the shaft to leave room for them. The bushings will allow the drums to spin freely when the pawls are retracted.
25
From Plans / Re: Ohrndorf V12, new challange
« Last post by Vixen on April 22, 2024, 05:23:21 PM »
Hello Achim,

That's some very nice CNC carving going on.

Yes, CNC does exactly what you tell it to do, your job is to tell it what to do and what bits to avoid.  :thinking: I think we both enjoy that challenge.

What CAM program do you use? Also what is your CNC driver software?

Cheers   :cheers:

Mike
26
Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by crueby on April 22, 2024, 05:18:41 PM »
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Caught that new shop elf, Pawl, catching a nap in that last photo I think!  :Lol:
He was up late catching the Rat named Chet...  :Jester:
27
Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by cnr6400 on April 22, 2024, 05:04:59 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Caught that new shop elf, Pawl, catching a nap in that last photo I think!  :Lol:
28
From Plans / Re: Ohrndorf V12, new challange
« Last post by fumopuc on April 22, 2024, 04:53:35 PM »
There was a little challenge to tell the CAM software about the M10 thread rod in the crankshaft center line.
So far the computer didnīt know about it.
Some parts of the fixture, the round pieces left and right hand side has been already known to him, but not the rod, so I have to told him about it.
Some time ago, I have seen that there will be a cutter with min 31 mm work face will be needed.
I have got a VMH cutter d=10 with 32 mm.
Not my standard size for the little CNC mill, so a good quality ER20 collet with less run out was also purchased.
Than I was fighting with the tool path and tried to check everything very accurate with the simulation.
At the end it was possible to guide the cutter close by, but not in the threaded rod, here marked with a red circle.
Also in the lowest level at the end no collision anymore.
After this was done, the outer parts has been shaped again.
And some holes and M3 threading.
29
Your Own Design / Re: Kearsarge Windlass Engines
« Last post by crueby on April 22, 2024, 02:48:24 PM »
Today is Ratchet Day. First cut down a dozen lengths of square bar to make the chain drum ratche pawls from, then drilled a 2-56 tap hole in one end and a clearance hole in the other end. The work stop makes this go fast.


Then milled a step in each end to let the screw heads clear,

With holes drilled/tapped in the slots in the drum section, then a drop of superglue in each hole to strengthen up the threads some more, here are the first couple of ratchet pawls screwed in place. Each has a longer screw in the other end, sticking out to engage the slot in the actuator disc

The actuator disc has an angled slot for each pawl,


so when the disc is turned, the pawls are raised or lowered. The elves are in the background taking their hourly nap...

When the pawls are raised, they will engage against the edge of the slots in the outer drum, driving it as the engine turns the shaft. With them lowered, the drum can freewheel. The section I am holding will be keyed to the main shaft to turn it when the shaft turns. More after the rest of the pawls are made and installed...
30
From Plans / Re: Upshur's twin opposed cyl. engine
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on April 22, 2024, 02:42:23 PM »
No machining over the weekend. This weekend was devoted to leaf raking. My one acre lot is surrounded on 2 sides by oak and maple trees, and I have an awesome amount of dead leaves to get rid of every spring. With the help of two grandchildren and good wife we raked up 33 bags of leaves and got them out to the curb for pick-up. Every spring I breathe a sigh of relief when that job is finished.--Now, on with my build.
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