Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: tangler on April 27, 2019, 05:34:35 PM

Title: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 27, 2019, 05:34:35 PM
Moving home is an unsettling business.  One exists in a sort of limbo, waiting for the stars to align so that there is a buyer for one's house and suitable property available to buy.  So, whilst this was going on I decided to distract myself with a new project - a Farm Boy from Jerry Howell's plans ( No 585). I had some suitable lumps of ally in stock that were (nearly!) the right size.  I won't bore you with the detail but here are some pics of the roughing out process:

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB1.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB2.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB3.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB4.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB5.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB6.jpg)

Then the move..and the new house... and the new BIG workshop happened  :)

Moving on 9 months and here we are:

The 2 halves of the frame have a halved lap joint which I crept up on to get a matching fit.  Note that the stock for the front half of the frame was not quite tall enough  >:( but as an oiler is fitted here I am not to worried about that (there's always JB Weld ;) )

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB7.jpg)

Prepared for drilling through the joint

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB8.jpg)

Having obtained a suitably sized ball ended mill the cavity was tidied up

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FB9.jpg)

And this is the current status:  screwed together with 6BA screws, not yet glued and awaiting a considerable amount of hand tidying

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBA.jpg)

At some point, and with at least 584 other Farm Boys under construction ( 8) ) I conceived the need for some personalisation and decided to try and make an air cooled version with a finned cast iron cylinder.  Here are a couple of mock ups in Fusion 360

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBB.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBC_.jpg)

The fins are 1/16" wide at the top and a bit thicker at the base. So, what do you think guys?  Is it a goer?

Cheers,
Rod


Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on April 27, 2019, 05:57:21 PM
Hello Rod,

Beautiful machine work, keep the photos coming.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: b.lindsey on April 27, 2019, 07:14:07 PM
Great to see a new project starting Rod. Congrats on the move and new shop also!!

Bill
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on April 27, 2019, 07:46:29 PM
As I said before it's a goer. Have you considered a small cooling fan like the air cooled associated engines have, rather than a hefty bracket as has been seen on here recently a boss could be bonded between a couple of fins ( I assume you are turning them) to take the fan's pivot. Then all you need is a of small vee pulliey and a fan cut and twisted from thin sheet.

(http://www.oldengine.org/members/smigle/Associated%20pics/bb/amanco6_jpg.jpg)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 28, 2019, 12:04:30 AM
I like the fan idea.

Thanks,
Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on April 28, 2019, 12:16:09 AM
Cool “Rod I am here for the ride..... :popcorn:




 :drinking-41:
Don







Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: b.lindsey on April 28, 2019, 02:27:49 AM
Jerry's "Vickie" Stirling engine has a similar arrangement though I did not incorporate it and the engine runs fine and for a long while without it. Farm Boy will no doubt generate more heat. Could be a good addition!

Bill
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on May 02, 2019, 11:01:36 AM
Thanks for the comments.

This is the plan of action together with the lump of cast iron that (I'm hoping) contains this shape.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBD.jpg)

The first job was to clean up the outside

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBE.jpg)

I then moved the job to a four jaw for a more secure hold and drilled through with a 3/4 bit, the only drill bit I have with a morse taper shank.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBF.jpg)

I think using a between centres boring bar is the best way to ensure a parallel bore, even if they are a bit of a pain to set up

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBG.jpg)

Adjusting the tool bit is pretty tricky but I managed to get to 0.998" and there is some light chatter to lap away

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBH.jpg)

Off to Exbury gardens now to look at some pretty azaleas and mayby ride on a steam train.

Cheers,

Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on May 02, 2019, 02:02:42 PM
You're off to a good start  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I will be following along  :wine1:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on May 07, 2019, 03:40:12 PM
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_exbury.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_exbury_loco.jpg)

That was a pleasant afternoon.


Since the the cylinder was packed up on the cross slide the the outside is no longer accurately aligned with the bore so I remounted it in the 4 jaw centered on the outside and then  banged the other and around with a hammer till it was centered according to the bore and took a cut along the exterior as far as the chuck.  Then turned it end for end and repeated the process.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBI.jpg)

Once that was done I turned the register that fits into the end of the frame and started on the fins with a newly sharpened 1/8" parting tool

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBJ.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBK.jpg)

I turned it end for end again to finish the parallel cutting of the fins because corner of the topslide was interfering with the cylinder.  I've drawn a 2 degree taper on the fins.  Moving the topslide around to 2 degrees means that the topslide handle interferes with the cross slide handle so I replaced it with this little knurled knob which does the job

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBM.jpg)

I changed to a narrower parting tool, cut the tapers down one side and then shifted the topslide to 2 degrees the other way and tapered the other sides.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBL.jpg)

The top of the fins are 3/16" diameter so I drilled a 3/16" hole in a bit of oil hardening steel (Ground Flat Stock in the UK) then filed away half the diameter of the hole and hardened and tempered.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBN.jpg)

The bottom of the fins are 1/8" diameter and I already had a HSS tool which I modified on the grindstone to suite

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBO.jpg)

A family shot to finish

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_FBQ.jpg)

Cast iron swarf everywhere so lots of cleaning up to do- including me: Mrs Tangler and I are off to a local restaurant this evening to celebrate our Silver Wedding anniversary.

Cheers,

Rod










Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jim Nic on May 07, 2019, 04:44:37 PM
Lots of effort to get the "cast" look Rod but it turned out beautifully.
Jim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on May 08, 2019, 12:59:25 AM
Great progress Rod, the cylinder looks very nice!

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: b.lindsey on May 08, 2019, 02:11:26 PM
Looking great Rod, and congrats on the anniversary too!!

Bill
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on May 21, 2019, 02:15:56 PM
Hi guys,

Sorry for the delay.  I decided to have a go at the connecting rod next.  This seemed like an ideal subject for my little Denford/Sherline CNC mill

I started with a blank of HE15 (2014) aluminium alloy, milled to thickness on the manual mill and with 2off 6mm holes at the correct centre spacing for the big and little end bearings.  This was then mounted onto the CNC milling table and squared to the X axis with a dti.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr7.jpg)

The Denford software has a simple CAM system that coped with the external profile pretty well

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr8.jpg)

The rest was less successful:  I had to fiddle around with the DXF drawing files to provide pathways that the mill could understand, then it started translating circles into polygons and, to cap it all it decided that it needed to drill a hole in the middle of the web.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9a.jpg)

The polygon issue has been addressed in a recent update to the software (which, obviously, I have downloaded after the event) and the spurious hole was probably operator error in entering the Z height.  Fusion 360 has a Denford post processor so I have spent the last week or so delving into Fusion CAM.  There's a long way to go so I have decided to carry on with the bit I've made.  The hole could remain as a "feature" - it is at least on the centre line or I could put an ally plug in it.  Anyway, I have tidied up the little end with some filing buttons

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9b.jpg)

I used a boring head in the manual mill to bring the 2 bearing holes to size

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9c.jpg)

The 1/16" oil hole was drilled after spotting with a 2mm end mill

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9d.jpg)

There is quite a bit of cosmetic work to do to make it look more like a forging but I am going to get on with the bearings next.

Cheers,
Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on July 31, 2019, 09:52:51 PM
Hello again.  OK, I really wasn't happy with the con rod so decided to have a go using Fusion 360.  The CAM package has a Denford post processor.  This turned into a really steep learning curve for me but I managed some sort of result after a lot of trial and error testing with the tool path simulation.  Sadly, it turned out that the Denford software/ Computer/Winows Vista combination I'm using couldn't cope and repeatedly crashed halfway through the program  :Mad:

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9e.jpg)

The next fallback was Manual Numerical Control using the DRO on the manual Mill

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9f.jpg)

The circles represent a 4mm 2 flute cutter centered on the big end bearing.  The red figures are for a 3mm ball end mill.  The plan was to hold a fixture in the vice on a rotating base and shift it 2 degrees either side of the centre line to provide the tapers where necessary.

So, this time around the first job was to drill a pair of holes for the bolts that would fasten the end cap on the big end

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9g.jpg)

The end cap was the slit off

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9h.jpg)

and the holes tapped 4mm in the con rod body while the cap was drilled for 4mm clearance

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9j.jpg)

Centres for the big and little ends were drilled through with a 6 mm spotting drill which leaves a very nice 6mm hole indistinguishable from a reamed hole

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9k.jpg)

The con rod blank was then milled on both side to the overall maximum thickness

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9l.jpg)

I mounted a scrap of aluminium in the vice and mounted a pair of 6mm studs at the con rod bearing centres

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9m.jpg)

The con rod was then mounted on these pins and milling and profiling the shape was undertaken using the coordinates in my drawing

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9n.jpg)

The blank was then flipped to do the other face

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9p.jpg)

The little end was tidied up using the rotary table

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9q.jpg)

I centered the con rod using a length of 6mm drill rod held in a collet

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9r.jpg)

The big end was bored out for the bearing using my boring head: I made a plug gauge to get the size correct

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9s.jpg)

I used the ball ended cutter to break up the corner and make it look a little less like a bar stock engine (is that OK Jason?)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9t.jpg)



(http://)



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on July 31, 2019, 10:42:49 PM
Of course, It didn't go quite that smoothly.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9u.jpg)

On the third attempt I forgot to allow for the cutter width on my drawing and made the big end too narrow  >:(  C'est la vie

The big end needs a 1/16" hole to allow oil to get to the bearing.  This little gizmo is very useful on my mill since have only a rising knee and no quill

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cr9v.jpg)

The big end bearing was cut from an over size lump of bronze and each side faced

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_BEB21.jpg)

The 2 halves were then joined together with solder paste

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_beb22.jpg)

The lump was the rotated in the 3 jaw chuck until the centre was on the split line

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_beb23.jpg)

The bearing was drilled and reamed before mounting on a mandrel.  I turned the smaller diameter with a 1/16" HSS parting tool.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_beb24.jpg)

The bearing needs a pair of semi circular grooves 180 degrees apart to allow clearance (and anti-rotation location) for the studs holding the bearing cap.  There also needs to be a 1/16" hole in the bearing to allow penetration of oil at 90 degrees.  I mounted the bearing, still on its mandrel on the dividing head on the mill and then carefully located the split in the bearing on the spindle centre.  I seem to have forgotten to take any pictures of the actual machining - sorry.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_beb25.jpg)

It wasn't, of course, my first attempt so here is a picture of one I made earlier but in the wrong orientation

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_beb7.jpg)

Cheers for now,
Rod








Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 31, 2019, 11:41:03 PM
Hi Rod.  Just picked up on this build.  I have to say that CNC machining must present it’s own set of problems.  Being a programmer for an occupation you’d think I would have gravitated to this type of machining but I guess i’m just old school.  :old:

I also like that you’re showing your attempts.  We’re not infalable ( at least not me) and I appreciate you honesty in showing your previous attempts.  I think it helps the newer guys in seeing that none of us are perfect. 

Watching this build with interest.  :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 01, 2019, 08:06:00 PM
Craig,

Thanks for the comments.  It's nice to know that someone is looking in  :)

I wasn't entirely idle during the period that I have been wrestling with Fusion 360, although we did have a nice holiday on The Isle of Mull

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_Otter.jpg)

I've made the crankshaft by fabricating from ground silver steel (drill rod) and Bright Mild steel for the webs.  I drilled and reamed the webs on the mill to get good location using the DRO

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs1.jpg)

I put an accurate centre into each arm of the shaft for use later

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs2.jpg)

The crankshaft was then assembled using Loctite retainer. A couple of Jo Blocks were used to keep the spacing correct.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs3.jpg)

After a couple of days to let the Loctite cure I drilled and reamed for taper pins

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs4.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs5.jpg)

I then released the piece of crankshaft between the webs

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs6.jpg)

Again, I've tried to get rid of the "made from barstock" look by rounding the ends of the crankwebs.  I used half of a cylinder as a filing guide for the crankshaft pin

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs7.jpg)

The other end of the webs was much easier using my toolpost mill and the GHT HDA

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs8.jpg)

There are still some keyways but the bulk is done

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cs9.jpg)

It only needed one attempt - things are looking up  ;D

Thanks for looking,

Rod




Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Admiral_dk on August 01, 2019, 10:02:37 PM
There are more looking in / following your build - though admittedly not saying much so far.

I can fully relate to certain CNC errors as it took me two hours today, to get a simple rectangular "slot" in a piece of plywood right - it was a "jig" to hold the boxes I needed to "drill" for some prototypes at work  :facepalm:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on August 02, 2019, 08:00:01 AM
Glad to see you back on this one  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I hope you can sort out your CNC problems  :killcomputer:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Johnmcc69 on August 02, 2019, 03:19:08 PM
There are more looking in / following your build - though admittedly not saying much so far.
:popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
 john
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: rudydubya on August 02, 2019, 10:11:04 PM
There are more looking in / following your build - though admittedly not saying much so far.

Indeed there are, Rod.  Following along quietly.

Regards,
Rudy
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 03, 2019, 06:35:30 PM
Thanks for the love guys  :)

The next job is to bore the holes in the body for the main bearings.  To do that I need to make the bearing caps so it was time to glue the 2 halves of the body together with JB Weld.  I did that yesterday so today I took a skim across the bottom

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap1.jpg)

I was quite leased with that - I could feel it sticking to the surface plate.  The caps are just some bits of ally which I squared up in the mill and used the DRO to get the hole spacing which I've drilled for 5mm tapping

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap2.jpg)

The caps were then clamped to the body and drilled through

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap3.jpg)

I've come to really like these spiral flute taps, almost as much as the tea fairy who appeared at an opportune moment

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap4.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap5.jpg)

The caps were fastened in place with some temporary cap head screws.  The bearing caps are taller than they need to be at the moment and I'm thinking that I will give them some fancier shape rather than leaving them square.  The crankshaft needs to be nicely aligned with the cylinder so I clamped the body to an angle plate and then squared it up in both the Y and Z directions

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap6.jpg)

The distance from the centre line of the crankshaft to the front face of the body is also reasonably critical so I Used an edge finder against the front face and used the DRO to find the correct distance to spot on the split line of the caps and then drilled through the upper cap 1/4"

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap7.jpg)

I then used a long centre drill to spot the lower cap

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap8.jpg)

A succession of holes where then drilled using a stub drill for the upper hole and a jobber for the lower where I had the right drills

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap9.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap9a.jpg)

The last drill was 12mm of which I only had a jobber length.  I had now run out of headroom using the ER chuck but was able to use a one of the Myford patent collets which are 2mt with a securing nose piece which screws on to the nose of my mill.  I've done a bit of buying and selling part sets of these collets on ebay to acquire some useful sizes in both metric and imperial

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap9b.jpg)

The final operation was to ream using a 1/2" machine reamer which, oddly, has a 10mm shank

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cap9c.jpg)

Cheers,

Rod


Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on August 04, 2019, 01:19:29 PM
It's progressing well Rod. The bearing caps will look nicer with a bit of shape to them rather than the boxy drawing shape.

Keep up with the Fusion I'm slowly getting the hang of it and like you my spiral flute taps are the ones I reach for first especially now that Uncle Ketan has topped up the sizes I already had together with a set of spiral point ones.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 04, 2019, 04:59:27 PM
Thanks Jason, I'll give it some more thought.

I had an hour to make the main bearings this morning, They are simple turning jobs from bronze

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_mb1.jpg)

The overall shape was parted off and the reversed into a 1/2" collet before drilling and reaming

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_mb2.jpg)

My 3/8 reamer is of unknown tolerance but I know from experience that it is too tight for a running fit in bronze so I have made a simple D bit from 3/8" silver steel that works very nicely to enlarge the hole. That hardened end has swollen with the heat treatment and measures 0.376" - the untreated bit is a true 0.375

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_mb3.jpg)

This is how the bits go together

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_mb4.jpg)

Thanks for stopping by,

Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 06, 2019, 09:45:54 PM
I've made a start on the flywheels today.  I  bought these a few years ago from College Engineering Supply.  They were being sold off at £25 for the pair and were actually the genesis of the idea of making the Farm Boy.  They are not particularly good quality, I think they were essentially seconds.  They're good enough - nothing that JB Weld can't fix  8)

I mounted them on a faceplate with some sacrificial pads behind the rim and then centered them as best I could on the inner rim which will not be machined

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_f1.jpg)

I turned the rim and sides and faced the central boss.  Then drilled and reamed the central hole for the crankshaft.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_f2.jpg)

I then turned it around on the faceplate, centered it according to the rim and faced the other side

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_f3.jpg)

A little bit of novel excitement now.  I took advantage of a couple of recent discount offers from ARC and Machine Mart to buy a 2 and 3mm set of push broaches and a small arbor press.  The drawing calls for 1/8" key way but I think that 3mm will be fine.  I did need to make a new guide to suit the 3/8" hole in the flywheel.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_f4.jpg)

And so I got to play with the press as well.  It all went very smoothly.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_f5.jpg)

Rod



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Johnmcc69 on August 06, 2019, 10:16:36 PM
Nice work Rod!
 Is the broach secured in the arbor press? I have a small press & have often thought about adding some sort of block or chuck to hold tools.

 John
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: b.lindsey on August 07, 2019, 02:33:59 PM
Its beginning to look like an engine now Rod. Nice work on all the recent parts!!

Bill
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on August 07, 2019, 03:01:45 PM
Just finish catching up on your build Rod always great work and setups. What I am surprised about is you haven’t build the micrometer dial for the Mayford tailstock yet. ...... :praise2:


 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 07, 2019, 03:54:15 PM
Hi Chaps,

John,  The arbor press just has plain end.  I've only used it for the broaching and pressing in the bearing on the little end of the connecting rod.  I'm sure it could be modified if required.

Don,  I have been tempted. Gray, as usual, has designed a very elegant solution but I have been satisfied with my own fix for a few years now and it's dual reading   8) :

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_tailstock.jpg)

I've been doing some sums today.  Jerry's drawing calls for 48DP 72T and 36T gears to provide a half speed drive for the cam.  I have set of 0.5MOD gear cutters.  PCD of the 72 T gear is 1.5" which is 38.10mm.  PCD of 0.5MOD 76T gear is 38.0mm.  Good enough.  Jerry also calls for the larger gear to be made of brass or bronze with the smaller gear being steel.  Good engineering practice but surely not usual in full size engines.  Anyway, I haven't got a suitable bit of brass or bronze so both will be made from FC steel  :o

Cheers for now.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on August 07, 2019, 04:07:56 PM
All the hit and miss engines I have made have had both gears in steel so can't see that as a problem.

Those are quite fine teeth you could probably come upto 24DP or 1MOD quite easily if you have the cutters.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 08, 2019, 11:50:02 AM
I've got a set of 0.8MOD cutters.  48T has a PCD of 38.4mm and 24T half that at 19.2.  Seems like a better option,  I'll be adjusting the position of the crankshaft gear to fit anyway.

Cheers,

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 09, 2019, 04:40:52 PM
The first job with the gears was to slice off a piece of Free Cutting mild steel

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g1.jpg)

I faced this and then drilled and reamed as before 3/8"

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g2.jpg)

The blank was then fastened on to a mandrel and turned to the required OD for the gear.  When I can I like to make my mandrels from Precision Ground Mild Steel so I can keep them and then re-mount in a collet for accuracy.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g3.jpg)

Getting the centre of the gear cutter is tricky since, in my experience, the cutting teeth are not necessarily in the centre of the tool.  Eyeballing seems to be the best method but care has to be taken to avoid parallax error as seen in the photo where the camera was not truly in line with the cutter.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g4.jpg)

On my dividing head, 48 divisions is 1 and 1/4 turns - 1 turn and 15 holes on the 60 hole plate

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g5.jpg)

Each tooth was cut to the full depth in one pass.  Always a relief when the final tooth is at the correct spacing

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g6.jpg)

Rinse and repeat for the 24 T gear, 2 1/2 turns for each tooth.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g7.jpg)

The gears were finished to thickness in soft jaws trimmed to size

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g8.jpg)

The smaller gear has a boss for a set screw.  I'm going to have to make some new heaxagons for the jaws soon.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g8a.jpg)

I drilled the hole for a M3 grub screw using my tool post milling attachment which is set on centre height

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g9.jpg)

Here's the pair of finished gears.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_g9a.jpg)

The plan is to make all the stuff that goes in-board of the flywheel on the governor side so that I can make sure that the spacing is correct before I cut the keyways in the crankshaft.

Cheers for now,

Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Admiral_dk on August 09, 2019, 08:08:35 PM
Those gears came out great  :ThumbsUp:    :cheers:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on August 10, 2019, 05:36:10 PM
Excellent gears  :praise2:  :praise2:  :wine1: Something I need to try one day (along with CNC and … and …)  ::)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: bruedney on August 10, 2019, 09:02:39 PM
I've got a set of 0.8MOD cutters.  48T has a PCD of 38.4mm and 24T half that at 19.2.  Seems like a better option,  I'll be adjusting the position of the crankshaft gear to fit anyway.

Cheers,

Rod

Hi Rod
I am just setting out on a water cooled journey and am going to metricise the build and have been wondering about the same issues. You say above you are going to adjust the position of the crankshaft gear. Does that mean you are going to move the crankshaft & bearings? I would have thought the big gear would be the easier one to move.

Watching with interest

Bruce
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 10, 2019, 09:29:21 PM
Hi Bruce,

No, that was clumsy phrasing on my part.  I'll adjust the position of the cam shaft so that the  2 gears mesh correctly.  In your metric version I guess you could go to even coarser gears as Jason suggests.  I wonder why Jerry chose such fine gears although it does provide the ability to have finer adjustment of the timing.

Cheers,

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: bruedney on August 11, 2019, 01:53:07 AM
Thanks for the clarification

Bruce
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on August 11, 2019, 07:30:51 AM
I wonder why Jerry chose such fine gears

Probably had the cutters to hand.

Looking at your finished gears I would say that tooth size looks about right though 1MOD would not be a lot larger and easy to buy complete gears cheaply if you don't want to cut them.

I've also just done some 0.8MOD size ones. 21T & 42T

(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Midget/20190810_191412_zpsnaaedg67.jpg)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: b.lindsey on August 11, 2019, 12:43:38 PM
Fine looking gears and a nice family shot too Rod. Still following along with your build.

Bill
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 14, 2019, 08:24:50 PM
The cam is a simple 2 radii job.  The OD was turned to the diameter of base circle plus lift, then I mounted the blank on a mandrel in the dividing head a milled across the base circle at 3degree intervals (that's half a turn on the DH)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cam1.jpg)

I like to say a little mantra to myself on these types of jobs:

Turn  (rotate the dividing head to the next hole)
Sector  (move the sector arms ready for the next turn)
Cut  (move the job under the cutter)
Mark (cross off the cut on the list)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cam2.jpg)

I used a dead smooth (#6 cut) file to get rid of the machining marks and parted off the finished cam

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_cam3.jpg)

The spool is the bit that slides along the crankshaft to actuate the miss mechanism, driven by the governor's balls.  This a simple turning job but it needs a pair of slots on either side for the governor arms.  Again, I mounted it on the 3/8" mandrel in the dividing head and used a little 1/8" FC3 cutter after carefully lining everything up and zeroing the centre of the cut on the DRO.  Then rotated through 180 degrees and repeated

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_spool1.jpg)

This all went very well.  Since I changed the drive belt on the mill to poly V it runs very smoothly and quietly at 2800rpm

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_spool2.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_spool3.jpg)

That's all for the moment.

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on August 14, 2019, 08:31:28 PM
Rod, on a job like that does it really need the sectors moving? I tend to do as you said and simply do half a turn or one turn of the handwheel etc, 10mins either way won't make a lot of difference. At the most plate with two opposite holes marked with a sharpie will be Ok.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 20, 2019, 10:00:42 PM
This job is the governor weight fulcrums and hub.  The fulcrums were first roughed out (very!).  The important spacing is the distance between the fulcrum holes and their height from the base.  By using a pair of filing buttons of 1/4"OD in the holes that pretty well defines the shape, the arms just need to be mounted at the correct angle in the vice before milling across, using the buttons to get the thickness.  The pair were sandwiched together with 8BA screws.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf1.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf2.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf3.jpg)

The hub is also brass.  Jerry calls for the OD to be 1.045" but I've only got 1" so that will have to do.  My problem here is that I will need to hold the hub in something in order to mill the slots for the arms.  I decided on an ER25 collet block so turned a stub to 15mm diameter to fit in a collet

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf4.jpg)

With the collet in the lathe I turned the hub to final thickness and then put a tiny centre in so I can find it in the mill

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf5.jpg)

I've never actually used this pointed "edge finder" before and am not sure how they are supposed to be used but a finger seemed to work to determine whether the parts were concentric

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf6.jpg)

So, with the DRO zeroed on centre I could cut the 2 x 1/8" slots

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf7.jpg)

The holes in the arms were opened out to 3/32" with a reamer

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf8.jpg)

A couple of lengths of 3/32" rod kept the arms aligned and they were anointed with soft solder paste and then warmed up with a torch until the solder flowed.  I had to ease the slots slightly with a file to give the solder some working room.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9.jpg)

The problem now was that I need to bore a 0.602" hole and the spigot is only 0.591.  Fortunately, the jaws of my little 4" 4jaw (just) fit between the arms.  I hadn't thought that through, I was just lucky  :-[

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9a.jpg)

Here it is, pretty much finished but I'll probably do a little more filing to tidy things up.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9b.jpg)

This is my rather Heath Robinson set up for ball turning.  The dividing head has a choice of seats.  It was manufactured on the Myford so the bore in this configuration is automatically on centre height.  On the other face the centre height is greater and allows a 4" chuck to be used on the mill.  The tool holder was made from an orphaned Flexispeed top (compound) slide riveted to a N0.2 Morse Taper.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9c.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9d.jpg)

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9e.jpg)

A pair of Governer's Balls.

(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/normal_gwf9f.jpg)

Cheers,
Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on August 21, 2019, 12:12:11 AM
Tangler--You are doing nice work. when I get into assemblies that are as small as you show, I generally make a "one time use" jig to hold everything in position for soldering, then the jig is cut away.---Brian
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on August 21, 2019, 08:13:40 AM
You are making good progress on this one now Rod, your ball turner leaves a nice slim attachment point.

Your post about the cam got me thinking about the ones I need for the present engine so I put them into F360's CAM and hopefully later today will post in the Darkside thread that it cut each cam in just over 2mins.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on August 21, 2019, 09:53:18 AM
My intention had been to use the Denford/Sherline mill to make the cam - it should be a simple profiling job.  Sadly the mill has not been playing ball.  I've been driving the mill from a laptop via a USB to serial converter which seems to lead to communication errors.  I'm currently in the process of  resurecting an old XP desktop which I had been hoarding because it has a parallel output which could be useful for  Mach 3.  It doesn't have a serial output so I'm waiting for Ebay to provide me with a PCI serial card.

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on September 12, 2019, 06:20:32 PM
Sorry for the delay, hassle with the CNC mill (still bust) and the acquisition of a sailing dinghy for playing in Christchurch harbour have distracted me.  Also, I've been hosting my pics on the Coppermine Lister forum.  Although this was a generous offer, you may have noticed that the resolution and image size is not great and the bulk upload feature seems to be arguing with Flash.  So, I'm now trying to use Flickr...

Fabrication of the governor mechanism continues.  This little assembly needs a pivot with 2 arms at right angles - one holds the ball and the other actuates the catch lever spool.  The pivot was drilled for 2 off 1/8"  holes

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721314683_1c2b16acba_b.jpg)

Jerry calls for the bits to be assembled with silver bearing soft solder.  I'm more comfortable with hard silver solder so here they are anointed with silver alloy brazing paste.  The steel supports were roughly turned down ( horrible sticky steel ) to a diameter to ensure that the arms were parallel to the base

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721649236_1a1a4886da_b.jpg)

They were then warmed up with a torch 'til the solder flowed

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721649286_9123b648d1_b.jpg)

The outboard end of the balls have little brass mounts for the spring.  The drawing shows a plain shank to be Loctited in place.  I prefer a thread which will be screwed 8BA and Loctited in the correct orientation

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721314708_05b2406566_b.jpg)

Once threaded this was held in a little fixture that is just a hole threaded 8BA.  I have a few of these of various sizes made from Precision Ground Mild Steel so that they can be re-used in a collet chuck.  First chamfered

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721826927_a4c8fbf389_b.jpg)

and the round end finished with a hand graver

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721826932_d9766c0348_b.jpg)

The flats were then milled and the hole drilled using the toolpost miller

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721649326_3e04a4ab0c_b.jpg)

The pivot pins are 3/32" and I decided to retain these using 3mm E clips so the pins were grooved using my modified hacksaw parting/grooving tool from a Len Mason Design

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721827002_7f9407f0b2_b.jpg)

These bits now need to be fitted to the flywheel and the next step will be to make the flywheel collets and machine the matching tapers in the flywheels themselves

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48721649406_33bac6a0d1_b.jpg)

Cheers for now,
Rod





Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on September 12, 2019, 09:02:14 PM
Real nice work Rod and love the use of your various tools. ...... :ThumbsUp:



Don :cheers:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: DavidLloyd on September 13, 2019, 12:48:17 AM
Excellent Job Rod,

DavidLloyd
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Craig DeShong on October 04, 2019, 01:35:43 PM
Very nice Rod.  I've been silently following along.  Past time to comment.  I just love your work!
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on October 05, 2019, 01:09:13 AM
Tangler--You are doing marvelous work. I am following.---Brian
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on November 04, 2019, 06:30:10 PM
Thanks for the kind comments chaps.  Sorry it's been so long.  DeltaTango came to visit and Sally and I had a holiday in Norfolk where we  took in the Forncett ME show and met up with a few more MEM guys.  I've taken my Denford/Sherline CNC mill to near Melton Mowbray to be converted to Mach 3.  The 3d printer has finally been persuaded to behave and I've managed to print some stands for my Pultra collets:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014110361_8fa1548073_b.jpg)

We now have a new desktop PC which was specced to deal with Fusion 360 and is really quite whizzy.  I've also done a little bit of organisation in the tool storage area:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314632_64136ee9ac_b.jpg)

Anyway, back to the Farm Boy.

The flywheels are located on  tapered collets.  I'm making these back to front so that I can leave the topslide at the same angle to cut a matching taper in the flywheel.  It will also make drilling the holes in the flange easier.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013581498_07a14b4b00_b.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314872_fb972b2984_b.jpg)

Another thing I've done recently is to make a simple direct indexer for the 60 tooth Myford bull wheel.  I wanted one that was quick to attach but still allowed the belt cover to sit properly.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014109926_87d6e9c8fa_b.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314847_3ef6cd8430_b.jpg)

Now it's very quick to mount the toolpost mill and index for 3 clearance holes and 2 threaded holes for extraction jacking screws

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314792_828b3df69d_b.jpg)

These still need to be slit but I want to wait until I've cut the tapers in the flywheels to the right size.  I used the collets as a Jig for drilling the location holes in the flywheel

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49013581298_060d765330_b.jpg)

The flywheels were mounted in the 4 jaw and roughly centered with a length of 3/8" pgms in the tailstock chuck

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314712_75a375da73_b.jpg)

And then set up properly with a DTI

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014110006_a1c2b8eb38_b.jpg)

The taper in the flywheel was then turned so that the collet had a 25 thou allowance for tightening against the crankshaft.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014314512_ac50fb372e_b.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49014377261_c87e6cd763_b.jpg)

That's all for now.

Rod



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on January 22, 2021, 11:35:47 PM
Sorry about that, I just popped out to do some woodwork.

Before going any further I thought I ought to lap the cylinder bore to size since the head has a spigot that fits in the bore and there are some chatter marks to remove.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50863787418_91d3fe8d04_b.jpg)

The lap is just lump of ally with  tapered bore on a tapered mandrel.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50864497336_78d2841553_b.jpg)

The initial lapping compound is some valve grinding paste that I inherited from my dad and was probably bought to keep a pre-war Vauxhall on the road back in the 1950s.  The tub has a coarse and a fine end.  The coarse paste removed the chatter marks after an hour.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50864497316_76c15ff33f_b.jpg)

30 mins with the fine end has left some work still to do before moving on to some finer carborundum powder

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50864602187_26ceec49e0_b.jpg)

More to come soon (promise!)

Stay well,
Rod



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: deltatango on January 23, 2021, 01:55:21 AM
Rod, Good to see some more progress. It's good to see some new posts from you.
David
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on January 27, 2021, 11:56:55 PM
Hi David,

Back in the metal work fold now!  Sally and I are keeping well away from people - just one weekly trip to the supermarket and a daily walk down to the sea or round the marsh so plenty of time in the workshop.

Still some work to do on the bore of the cylinder.  I took the large scratch marks out with a 3 stone hone but I think the bore needs to be a bit smoother for an elastomer O ring.  The aluminium lap seems to be wearing away much quicker than the c.i.  so I may have to investigate something more sophisticated.

Now that the bore is (pretty much) to size I've started on the cylinder head - turned in the lathe with the locating spigot fitted to the bore.  I kept a small centre mark from the lathe to locate in the milling machine.

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4m9zxsRpA7N4QsN-cLAh3yvp5wwI_6yGCknxkS2PprVfUNp25dZ8OkQfXk7MedbbjQvWU3_ulWcyThcaFInBFQev1AXxb8RTasVG3MHWnc0BFk98z4zEQ7WySl6nSJCxllTHY_LZd-Kr7eADv00FLdUUAIJcyTeKDL6MWUdC6JiY9sXcTGWzQ3CY4I2fRB98W4?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

I used the DRO to locate and spotted the holes for the studs to fasten the head to the cylinder and removed the head from the mill to the pillar drill for the 4BA clearance holes (no quill on my mill) then returned the head to the mill using two clearance size drills to relocate the head in the vice

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mMMzjE0ji6r7H4hnyF03wY1h7yr9B1mWoTX2Kw_OVSE8FNVw-jF54BzMh6kwGgggCKU7un9DOWZ9UIHkIPbtG5mN82_xC_dqY28KoswS9o3rjsdVRUMT80cGpDEmCHDycRT_QGiSfxnhKrqa6tqqYOb_ywuUNI3_74eW4sMr0uIMGLSE6GTdlKUdR_j24ZkFy?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

I spotted the 2 holes for the valve guides and milled the pocket for the spark plug with a ball nose end mill.  I'm using close(ish) metric and BA equivalents to the original drawings.

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4m7oVc5Wf3XG4r8sCY7G6t5nLTc6o2FNn3Y6ux7eMC_GcbmU8TjI56RvKN2iL143Chpx9nGUr38LP0aSIUOWjrcUmAPMxmM6PneQ8mtAG_vsEbK0Wkt6WJyZFiX9Kwr_1CDZ-w2w4ocOKX6jvmtxaNcQ9shEkATThl1XRnpDpB820bqCWqQxg-q7ig0T-A0qfY?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

The head was returned to the 4 jaw in the lathe and I picked up the cenrtres for the valve guides with a wobbler

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mFALW8f-y_xLr-oBJ95UqNuoE-Zu7e6rqK3ZNI2MxhztQKfDbb4H-RydDwDiGNDisYyqm82hr0_uwFhB6zX9uyPNFKTBhg57zdbtSo5JHkPY45ZI2t2d34eOWW0PCW0iNw-cSVv0foJo4XQnnEegGkz2RJD_wZSWtp3LyIZ2LR7LoLov5mrI6gfEUs1Gz5tot?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

and then drilled, bored and reamed to size

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mxiTXJVUQ1y5Cr5maSmNCvvAX6wJ0MwFNmeBOQyZdtAJxqZmQikzoVsDk2FI1wDm-iHiBARh4HNJVfhaUVg2ILV0nosih22ewKsf28B-Xs8u9VcTFZfcE5k3D1-IAQuEbkycHYB9gWa5J_ecv1qyptwdLbSEXnqrK1GGiE6gry3EE6MR0oL5ppmYgUnrN1_qN?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

I decided to make a jig for the next step which was to drill the spark plug hole at a 20 degree angle.  Easy to do as I already had the coordinates for the stud holes

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mbs1HP428y0bt5Kgw9vJUNiIvYr0vid9vYHR2O2oORxR_1FLfeJg2tFwAMnvc_InrroRP1WF7lkEoM0G1i5tLm3G7uoGCCX1LFDCqwb7c5c0FapDZ62vxk6cZJYEUnGnox-4uohBgOMqJf0DP4Leo3J6DsKHBAC9BSSpNoO0-rn0QAyAPtDtpgSzGK6f1Wft0?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)


Then tapped 4BA

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4m7Pwv6PMy6xbW895p29HZOmljLg3NvZiUt_PkIdfGi83DJ0SVBNVF9F2mO3Wd_oLjuxmVSLK4bOOuTYtmJAo0pvGInrReB_6AqQEw7DXOJexf6mZ53NsxPqCwNBDCx7S15cD8ZhCPTViQLVdJ1nBGjcrfK-H4XRJcaAMv59yRpFegpOGZS9II5mMcVrvJaOkg?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

The jig was set up in the vice at 20 degrees.  Jason will be amazed that I'm using my special aluminium magnet again!  The angle gauge has a V slot on the base so in order to get it to sit on the cylinder head between the bolt heads I used a round steel bar and there was enough magnetic flux to stick the bar against the hold down bolts.

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mvyOcH36DJNhlZJD27EBCBXXRokdUGEsXV3izfcVD1ZonsyzKIe_MA3qk0LAIcZMatLHtTfjkJtJ_pZCTUFbKK5_5qCuQLC_jUTgbPp8secRfHDmy1a9VKGtiWj7rzMVPQzrcWxNIXmGZYzI9NhhpZOdpmbo0lFkTM6IUhcj9pkIPcP7q9qvZ-FxWei_C40eh?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

The spark plug sits in a pocket that should be 7/16" diameter.  I have to be careful here because anything bigger risks breaking into the holes for the valve guides.  The only 7/16" milling cutter I have is this rather old fashioned 6 flute one and I didn't fancy my chances of starting a clean hole with this so I used a 12mm 2 flute mill to start and then finished off with the old cutter
The drawing gives the dimensions to get  the hole in the right place...

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mo29IhQVDPF98zQBpUranMnl9-SG3XXjXx-yNIOaBY_58yUy_E9xoSbRYLRV_3aa4UunTgkqeYGvuMIuAMies4uRZcBCceTSGQP_a1WM-PEF6sNHx-dvbUPvvqA22S_87xUVHAh8u2_oiyrL0bo91pvPDjManteCcxvBu3szA6lxNV-AJJ8dnjMsrXCh4FQ1X?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

...but it was still a relief to find that the result was near enough in the correct location.  I tapped the hole for the plug and it seems to fit


(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mp0kKtbxCTSEaDur_JSbtTe8TIpzzki3fo8jT9_2wmSUi_mmgbYY8tq1ARslYqiYFnuNuZ2_qHCFEwtZmoJToTGZVxokqcJW3B2wtqD6SeLsZu-sc6KjmkStslBjHURiDEJP8gPC3Dqw9snFdUtf9qBeB1qq0mJpqZbeY6DFlRjNpO-B3yuwmwlZ-wmaKxn1P?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4m5VmIPslatyk5xFfgyKMl5PszNQR-Ms3HfLepfXPc2JRV2QkEb0JjFavAXh7UYrBnqoB2qBWDF4Bc7sJD5pufnrCnV-tByxDyQTgzk1PTw6Hwc7EhaicTp15nI1zTHN8tyDiA6RNQutQdYUtsfqp5ajDZ6ce2uY4HEHh9ZfEeSHG3tiFYM-4z1WFDWPI9kSID?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

I didn't plan that job terribly well.  I changed my mind several times about how I was going to do it so ended with several redundant transfers from machine to machine but got there in the end.

Stay well everyone,

Rod


Oops.  Seem to be having a problem with the pictures.  I'll try and sort it out tomorrow

Update:  Was using Flickr to host but that didn't seem to want to play so now trying Ondrive - I think I've got it sorted  :hammerbash:





Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on January 28, 2021, 12:14:05 PM
Good to see you back at the swarf making and pics are showing up fine.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on January 29, 2021, 05:54:58 PM
The valve guides are bronze and require a 1/8" reamed hole.  I was fortunate to find in my collection an unused reamer still with the protective coating so that should be good for bronze.

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4muTS2ITcSsLu2205hyVRAc9bbpBqGXG30gceBpXkgvBZf5mZ1ATk5RS_W8185DP7AwZlmriRa1pzlQr0ElItBTueqvgzj5Tq1brP1TV6wQJvHcoJxHx8YArIqOCPGaMKZb0lP1TP5bH27EmTPheh-mqkDC2w1aK1RtimifKTzhmSgAqsAmGyfXIDp2i20sejk?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)


Spotted then drilled 7/64" before reaming (this picture especially for Allen Smithee  :) )

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4me53Sko9pRgIVQhixwxh082BMqakmOYGo9J5P5x2pvjo0m-EKIDM4Q_EP_q2rjnnO1S_8-QRKzhbHVudqo3gmdHNn8b5ftEHnBXkYKI633Obxmj_TKiMDd7cTC6168XHms4Le8VToLDsIeJUQywjtu1oGGB_JcMkArW_hUNJMK4Di-QwWq6dJZH5g_kB22Zsf?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4me53Sko9pRgIVQhixwxh082BMqakmOYGo9J5P5x2pvjo0m-EKIDM4Q_EP_q2rjnnO1S_8-QRKzhbHVudqo3gmdHNn8b5ftEHnBXkYKI633Obxmj_TKiMDd7cTC6168XHms4Le8VToLDsIeJUQywjtu1oGGB_JcMkArW_hUNJMK4Di-QwWq6dJZH5g_kB22Zsf?width=1000&
height=664&cropmode=none)

Turned around in the jaw and clocked in for turning the tapered top

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4m09R6_4FyBc9tEVqwN_BN_h4uir_ZF5ZqxiW5CeTIQmZGdpckPpwng9T095dvBTd12_WrhgLOP9aowSUykYq9Wt7so-V6uelj73JVgZ08PUXpAgWVLhuOCa2C_7dLjJkvSh955L11-Asrhszuxhzrw7Z2meWQZX9_fw0IZUe4LD3OKdUDifjrhCsMAlPDwNXH?width=1000&height=664&cropmode=none)

Here they are pressed into the head

(https://db3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mR-lFwN1LIHIuyR_lqcH-LTmvvis2UtIXWG40eY8oI38hU_xH1kJCOhjxNfIlW2YsLgubeHmhm_3WAcMFpnK5z6zCvatjRNi92_hcez-koX3nNCzo8s0041s56-_ICOnRgwhozzmQILW1yAxmaamkhfwcYdVgAph7VIds4CxtKMauTVkmTHR7tPs7TnXksFPJ?width=1000&height=705&cropmode=none)

Cheers,

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on February 24, 2021, 11:42:06 PM
I've been round the houses several times looking for an easy to use and free hosting/embedding for my pictures.  All the sites I've tried (Flickr, Google photos, Dropbox, Onedrive) seem to make it labour intensive to generate an embed code and it doesn't always seem to work.  So I am back with Coppermine.  Loading one photo at a time is a pain but at least I've found out how to display the photos at a decent size.  I have to confess you almost lost me from any more postings this afternoon I was that frustrated.  I wonder if that is one of the reasons that this site is not generating much traffic these days?

Anyway, I've been making the piston.  It starts with a simple turning job with groove for the ring which, as I have mentioned elsewhere, is oversize for a 1/8" section Viton O ring.

Milling the internal features and gudgeon (wrist) pin holes was more interesting.  First to align the piston axis to the mill so I know where I am with the DRO.  Then I used a 1/2" endmill to widen the access for the con rod.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p1~0.jpg)

The gudgeon pin doesn't float but is held in place by a couple of grub screws which I drilled for  M3

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p2~0.jpg)

I have a set of stub drill for most of the tapping sizes I use a well as sets of jobbers from 1mm to 10mm in 0.1mm steps so I could use one each of these to align the piston on the dividing head to drill the gudgeon pin hole.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p3.jpg)

I turned a plug to steady the piston and drilled and then reamed the hole

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p4.jpg)

The design calls for a hole for a pipe to allow oil to get to the little end bearing which is probably unnecessary but which I think is a rather sophisticated touch.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p5.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p6.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/p7.jpg)

Thanks for looking in.  I'm still here - just :)

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: cnr6400 on February 25, 2021, 12:02:30 AM
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2021, 07:14:15 AM
Good to see you back on this one. Not seen the pipe before but just a hole is quite common often with a shallow oil groove at the same point along the piston.

Yes it has been a bit quiet, anything to make it easier for people to post would help, maybe lifting the small image size limit would make it easier for some to attach images though I do prefer them posted within the text rather than all at the end.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Twizseven on February 25, 2021, 11:27:49 AM
Rod,
Seeing your comments about importing images from Dropbox, I have just done a search and I came across a site giving a simple way of adding pictures from dropbox.  You may have seen this and tried it but I thought I would make the suggestion.

When you paste the link change the end of the link from ?dl=0 to ?raw=1

The image below has been inserted using this method.

(https://www.dropbox.com/s/pho3c3967xf4yvp/S7SplashbackRes.jpg?raw=1)

This is the first time I have tried this, but will use this method next time I post to hopefully put pictures in sequence rather than the end.

Best Regards,

Colin
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on February 25, 2021, 12:38:47 PM
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/u7z8lkbnfo5bs9f/bg%20rose%203.jpg?raw=1)

That works!

Thanks, Colin.

Stay well,
Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Twizseven on February 25, 2021, 01:16:11 PM
Rod,

Glad it worked for you.

All I have to do now is "remember" how to do it when I next post.

Best Regards,

Colin
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on February 26, 2021, 05:03:00 PM
I thought I ought to see if this piston/ring combination feels OK in the cylinder and this seemed like a good point to try fastening the cylinder to the frame.  To this end I made a simple jig to position the stud locations

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig0.jpg)

I also turned a plug to locate the jig on the frame and drilled the holes for the studs using this rather precarious arrangement

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig1.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig2.jpg)

Then tapped the holes on the UPT

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig3.jpg)

Drilling the clearance holes in the cylinder was somewhat simpler

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig4.jpg)

It turned out that there is a clearance issue with the big end because I elected to use studs and lock nuts rather than a simple bolt through the cap.  I'll have a think about this.  However I tried the piston in the bore and it slides nice and freely.  There is a little bit of stiction at the start of movement but I don't think this will be a problem.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/jig5.jpg)

Stay well,

Rod



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on February 26, 2021, 07:05:13 PM
It's coming along Rod, do you get a good vacuum/bounce with the end of the cylinder covered by your hand?

Looks like a bit of shaping of the big end cap may get you the clearance you need.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on February 26, 2021, 07:29:14 PM
That precarious drilling set up looks the sort of thing I would use (actually the drill looks much like mine).

Looking good  :) :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on February 26, 2021, 07:35:22 PM
Tangler--I am following your thread with great interest. I'm in some medical "downtime" at the moment---can't work, but I can still read threads.---Brian
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on February 28, 2021, 03:15:31 PM
Thanks for the encouragement chaps.

As Jason mentioned, there is room to reduce the height of the big end bearing cap, which I did, leaving an ornate bit in the middle.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc1.jpg)

Not sure of this is prototypical - perhaps more Victorian Egyptian revival than Amanco  :???:

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc2.jpg)

Anyway, it now fits

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc3.jpg)

While I was in the mood I thought I would make the main bearing caps a little less boxy

I trimmed down the bolt seats and then rounded the lump in the middle with a 5mm radius cutter

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc4.jpg)

Not really happy with that so I trimmed a bit off the top and tried my other radius cutter which is 3mm radius

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc5.jpg)

Better but not best.  A bit of edging with a ball nose cutter as well.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc6.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc7.jpg)

Too ornate?  Regarding the bearing caps, what was full size practice for holding them down:  studs and nuts, hex bolts, slotted cap screws or...?

Thanks for stopping by,

Rod




Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on February 28, 2021, 04:56:09 PM
Looking through the various ref photos I have for the open crank engines that I have made there is no set fixing type, some are bolts, some studs with single nuts and others including the Assoc Hired Man studs with nuts & lock nuts.

probably a bit too ornate for me I would likely have gone for just a rounded top centred on the bearing ctr with a couple of flats possibly partly counterbored if needed.

You have not drilled for any oil cups yet so what about taking say an 1/8" ball nose cutter and forming a trough along the length of the raised part for oil to sit in and a small hole down through cap & bearing.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 01, 2021, 10:15:39 PM
I've worked out how to do it properly

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc8.jpg)

That's better

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/bc9.jpg)

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on March 02, 2021, 07:13:10 AM
 :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: gbritnell on March 02, 2021, 12:58:16 PM
Very nice work!
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: scc on March 02, 2021, 09:09:50 PM
Ditto    :ThumbsUp:             Terry
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on March 04, 2021, 12:29:05 AM
Nice progress!

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 10, 2021, 05:21:19 PM
Thanks for looking in guys.

I sympathise with Terry, it took me all afternoon to make 4 studs:

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/studs.jpg)

I think my M5 die is suspect - I've ordered some un-split dies from ARC

Making the valves next.  Long debates with myself whether to turn down from 3/8" stainless steel or fabricate from 1/8" precision ground stainless with a braised on head.  I opted for the former.  Jerry retains the springs on the valve with a keeper restrained by a 1/16" cross pin.  I elected to use E clips since I have a whole selection box of them.

First, turn the groove for the E clip with the hacksaw parting blade

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/v1.jpg)

Then turn the rest the shank down to 1/8" and polish

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/v2.jpg)

And part off

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/v3.jpg)

Then reverse into an 1/8" collet and finish of the head with light cuts at 45 degrees

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/v4.jpg)

The springs were next.  This is my selection box of spring wire bought many years ago from (have you seen my cat? ) Whiston - remember him UK guys?

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/s1.jpg)

The drawings call for 6 and 7 turns respectively in just over an inch but the coarsest thread I can cut is 8tpi so that will have to do.  This is my spring winding tool, just a lump of mild steel with a small notch filed in the end

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/s2~0.jpg)

It works OK, I don't use any tensioning, just feed the tool so that it squeezes the wire on to the mandrel.  I had to have a couple of goes to get the mandrel size correct - an on line calculator made the spring a bit big in diameter.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/s3.jpg)

The keepers were simple turning jobs and here's a little family shot

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/s4.jpg)

Cheers,

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on March 10, 2021, 05:34:56 PM
Make sure you have a metric die holder for the new dies, may also want a shallow recess as they are quite thin. I'm still undecided on them but they are cheap enough if you don't get on with them.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on March 10, 2021, 07:11:40 PM
Looking good  :praise2: My first engine was made with materials from Whistons. The flywheel was a slice 4" BMS from the Cat  :)  :old:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Bluechip on March 10, 2021, 07:30:01 PM
I remember Ken Whiston and his 'Cat' quite well.

When I was at w**k I often used to drop in at his place near Stockport .

Bate Mill IIRC. About a mile or so off the A6 Manchester Road.

He had NO END! of stuff not in the cat.   ;D  Quite an eye-opener to have a ( private  ;)  )  shufti .

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on March 11, 2021, 01:06:11 AM
Still at you Rod lovely work..... :Love:



 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 11, 2021, 05:20:47 PM
Thanks guys.  Roger, that's an interesting engine.

A couple of tidy up jobs today.  After centring the flywheel in the 4 jaw, turned the seat for the governor.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/mis1.jpg)

While it was there I milled the balancing slot with a 6mm ball ended tool.  It took 2 passes to go 0.135" deep.  The slot is 60 degrees long which was 10 slow turns of the HDA handle.  You can see that there is a little bit of work to do with the JB weld on some blow holes.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/mis2.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/mis3.jpg)

Also milled the key ways in the crankshaft

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/mis4.jpg)

That's all for today.  Stay well,

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 18, 2021, 05:40:19 PM
I've fitted a couple of keys and split the collets for the flywheels which are now mounted on the crankshaft

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/wheel_collet.jpg)

I am now in a position to test how freely the piston runs in the bore and whether it gives a good seal with adequate bounce

[youtube1]https://youtu.be/FdAuYg_XJwc[/youtube1]

All seems satisfactory  :)



Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on March 18, 2021, 07:12:15 PM
Now lets see if it bounces as well with the head on :LittleDevil:

Rings look to be sealing well and a nice smooth rotation even if it was backwards.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 18, 2021, 09:57:54 PM
My backhand has always been stronger   ;)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Admiral_dk on March 18, 2021, 11:15:05 PM
Looks really good - both function and appearance  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 20, 2021, 11:00:26 PM
Thanks for the comments.

I'd neglected to drill the holes for fastening the governor to the flywheel so I used my backstop to hold the frame while drilling part way through

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/gov_1.jpg)

I then drilled through on the pillar drill and used the frame to spot the holes in the flywheel before drilling and then tapping the holes on the UPT.  Since these holes were tapped 8BA I changed the tap holder to the sensitive version

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/gov2.jpg)

The bracket holding the exhaust rocker arm was an interesting puzzle.  The whole thing can be found lurking inside a length of 1/2" square mild steel.  First step was to rough turn the pillar in the self centring 4 jaw chuck

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep1.jpg)

The location stub and the pillar were then finished with a CCGT tip which worked nicely on this non freecutting steel

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep2.jpg)

The pillar was then mounted in a 1/4" ER 25 collet in a square collet block

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep3.jpg)

And the pivot pin hole was drilled prior to reaming 1/8"

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep4.jpg)

The head was reduced to width by milling both sides and then the bracket was placed in the vertical orientation to mill the slot

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep5.jpg)

The head was then profiled to the angle given on the drawing

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep6.jpg)

and the end rounded

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep7.jpg)

Here it is located on the head

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ep8.jpg)

I think the head needs some form of cooling fins milled in it to make it look like it belongs to the cylinder but I'm mulling that over.  However, the next job is to drill the inlet and exhaust ports through the head into the valve cages

Thanks for stopping by,
Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on March 21, 2021, 10:46:55 PM
Nice work Rod still with you love the piston rings test  :ThumbsUp: I notice your backstop use. I just love mine so useful and easy to use. Love it for making nuts with the op attachments... :Love:


 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on March 22, 2021, 12:32:46 AM
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 23, 2021, 09:52:17 AM
Thanks guys.

I put the head back on its fixture to mill then drill the passages

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r1.jpg)

The rocker arm was an interesting exercise and I spent a bit of time planning the order of operations.  First I squared up one side and one edge on a piece of mild steel rectangular bar and drilled the 3 pivot holes at the correct locations using the DRO.  Then rotated the bar to mill a slot.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r2.jpg)

Horizontal now to reduce the width behind the slot, finishing off with a ball ended mill to get the nice curve.  Lots of maths here to get the correct depths of cut.  Aren't DROs wonderful!

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r3.jpg)

I removed the job and reamed the holes - 3/32" on the ends and 1/8" in the middle, then back to the mill to cut the slopes at the requisite 11 degrees set with the digital angle gauge

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r4.jpg)

Rounded the ends

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r5.jpg)

Then tidied up the milling marks with some draw filing and Garryflex

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/r6.jpg)

Quite pleased with that  :)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tvoght on March 23, 2021, 02:56:29 PM
You caused me to look up "Garryflex". Thanks for that.    --Tim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on March 24, 2021, 06:12:37 PM
Tug (Ramon) put me on to Garryflex blocks - very useful

Small progress today  ;D

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/pins.jpg)

Pins and pivot for the rocker arm

But I did make some new metric sized holders for the metric dies I have recently received*

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/die_holders.jpg)

Stay well,
Rod

*Edit - i before e except after c if the sound is eee
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 02, 2021, 07:47:46 PM
Lots of little bits for the cam gear now

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x3b.jpg)

The clevis was troublesome, mostly to do with inadequate holding and deflection

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x6.jpg)

The one on the right was made using the following method:  A length of slightly oversize square mild steel was held in the four jaw self centring chuck and turned down to the required diameter

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x2.jpg)

The job was then transferred, still in the chuck, to the dividing head on the mill and the slot was first started with a drill

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x4.jpg)

Then the holes were joined up with an end mill slightly smaller than the required slot, opened out to the correct width and rotated 90 degrees to drill the hole.  Then returned to the lathe to drill and tap before parting off to length

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x5.jpg)

Using the step method in the mill to round off the ends has not been working well for me in these small sizes so I have reverted to using filing buttons.  I made a couple of collars with grub (set) screws in to keep the collars in place on a drill shank of the appropriate size.  A needle file fits between the collars

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x7.jpg)

And here it is in action on the Governor catch lever - another milling job

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x8.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x1.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x3a.jpg)

The cam shaft is another length of square bar turned in the lathe before milling

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x9.jpg)

I paused to make myself a stop for the vice -  modelled on a design I saw on a Stefan Gotteswinter video

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x9a.jpg)

I knocked off the corners at 45 degrees.  Jerry called for these to be radiused to 1/16" but I'm happy with the angles

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/x9c.jpg)

Not much left to do now!





Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 02, 2021, 09:48:13 PM
You're doing some mighty fine work there Tangler.---I look in to check once or twice a day.---Brian
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on April 02, 2021, 09:55:52 PM
Still with you Rod ......  :ThumbsUp:



 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on April 02, 2021, 11:48:16 PM
Nice progress!

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on April 03, 2021, 05:55:11 AM
Your clevis came out looking great!  Amazing what you can learn with a few practice runs, isn't it?  :)

Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on April 04, 2021, 11:38:12 AM
Nicely done  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I am a fan of filling buttons, especially for small sizes.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 07, 2021, 01:13:12 PM
Thanks for the comments guys.  I do assume that the forum is hanging on my every word and awaiting the next installment with baited breath  ;)

The mixer (although I tend to think of it as the carb).  Jerry used a PM Research elbow casting.  Not easily available in the UK so first thing is to fabricate an elbow from 3/8" diam. brass.  I milled a recess into a bar with a 3/8" endmill to slightly less than half depth.  The picture is actually of a test run on a bar end

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb2.jpg)

Then another length of 3/8" brass was reduced to 5 thou less than the diameter and slotted into the recess, fluxed and a ring of silver (hard) solder placed around the upright

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb5.jpg)

Then warmed up until the solder flowed

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb6.jpg)

I'd put centres into both of the components before assembly as an aid to setting up in the small 4 jaw chuck for drilling the holes to match up at the corner (sorry about the focus  :-[ )

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb3.jpg)

After some careful filing we have an elbow

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb7.jpg)

The body of the carb is made from 1/2" hex brass.  After facing in the lathe I transferred the chuck to the dividing head in the lathe and lined up one side of the hex with a set square

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb8.jpg)

After rotating to bring a face to the horizontal I drilled and reamed 1/8" for the spray bar

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9.jpg)

The spray bar is held in place by a set screw so I had to mill a starting flat but the ER25 collet was to big to bring the endmill close enough to the job so I resorted to using an ER11 collet holder with a 1/2" shank held in the ER25 collet

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9a.jpg)

Then drilled and tapped

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9b.jpg)

After returning the chuck to the lathe the through hole was drilled and a bit of hand turning finished off the end

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9c.jpg)

Here's the finished body soft soldered with solder paint to the elbow (you'll notice that the elbow is very nearly a right angle!)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9d.jpg)

The spray bar needs to have some scary small holes in it.  I very rarely use the larger drive pulley on my lathe but I went for the highest speed I can get of 2500 rpm.  It all went very well.  The tailstock feed on a Myford Super 7 is a 3 start square thread which is quite quick to advance and retard when pecking a hole.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9e.jpg)

The jet is #76 (0.5mm).  Transferred to the mill, I had to put a centre dimple first before drilling using the sliding small chuck holder at the mill maximum speed which is also 2500rpm

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9f.jpg)

The finished (well I guess I will polish it) spray bar

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9g.jpg)

The needle was made from an 8BA screw

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9h.jpg)

Don't let anyone tell you that you can't take fine cuts with carbide.  This is a CCGT tip with a 0.2mm radius

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9j.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9i.jpg)

The needle is finished off with a knurled brass knob, tapped and loctited in place.  My knurling tool lives in the Gibraltar tool post - it's too big to fit into a QC holder but is quick to exchange with the top (compound) slide.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9k.jpg)

The finished mixer

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cb9l.jpg)

Lets hope it works






Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on April 07, 2021, 06:40:00 PM
The mixer (although I tend to think of it as the carb).
Nice step-by-step on your mixer.   :popcorn: :popcorn:

So what's the difference between a mixer and a carburetor?  I thought that's what a carburetor was; the thing that mixes the gas with air so it can combust?  But I'm not really an IC guy, so I may just need to be educated.

Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 07, 2021, 06:49:30 PM
A mixer is a simple carburetor with no throttle. It basically runs "wide open" all the time. The rpm of the engine is controlled by the hit and miss function of the engine.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on April 07, 2021, 06:52:34 PM
Ah... that makes sense.  :)

Thanks for the clear explanation, Brian.
Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: propforward on April 07, 2021, 07:19:51 PM
Marvellous - thanks for the detailed explanation on your process Tangler. Very informative!
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 08, 2021, 06:18:32 PM
Thanks for the encouragement chaps.

The Exhaust Valve Push Guides are a pair of straps that locate and guide the push rod on the side of the engine.  They end up 0.6" long by 0.25" wide.  You may have noticed that I am trying to use as much of my existing stock as possible so a few minor alterations of non critical dimensions have been made here and there.  In this case I have some 1/2" square brass and I reckoned that making the pair on the same piece and slitting them with a 20thou saw is close enough.

First thing was to square up the block to length and then find the centres in X and Y using an edge finder and the 1/2 function on the DRO

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/prg1.jpg)

I used a 6mm endmill for the slot and then opened it out on either side for a sliding fit for the push rod

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/prg2.jpg)

The recesses for the screws were then milled with a 4mm tool.  By locating from the centre I could use the same numbers to locate the slots, either + or minus from the origin.  I also spotted the holes but did not drill because of the parallels supporting the job.  The push rod was used to stop the guides being crushed by the vice.

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/prg3.jpg)

I drilled the holes using the Pillar Tool and then used the guides as a jig to drill and then tap 8 BA into an oddment of steel as a way of holding the guides for splitting

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/prg4.jpg)

Back in the mill I knocked the corners off and after a bit of filing here they are

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/prg5.jpg)

Cheers,
Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on April 18, 2021, 06:54:41 PM
Lots of little odds and ends to finish off.  The metric gears I cut are slightly larger than to drawing and need fitting.  The shaft through the larger gear has a point on the end to mark the centre.  A larger gear means the dimensions of the governor catch lever need altering - something I forgot so had to remake this  :-[

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fit1.jpg)

The fiddling around with little items triggered me into making a couple of things that have been on the to do list for 3 decades

An instrument makers vice

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fit3.jpg)

And a finger plate

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fit2.jpg)

The new lever clears the gear

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fit4.jpg)

The ignition system was bought as a complete unit from China - this is sold as a replacement system for one of the ready made engines that are all over the internet at the moment

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/ign.jpg)

I need to work out how and where to mount the Hall sensor

Rod
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on April 18, 2021, 10:30:04 PM
Cute little clamp and finger vise you made!

And the ignition came with those cute little sparkplug boots too?  That's pretty nice!
Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on May 05, 2021, 11:20:14 PM
A trial assembly shows that every thing seems to fit together

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa1.jpg)

A few more bits and bobs need making.  The crankshaft oilers need a 1/4" AF hex so I started that in hex er25 collet block

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa01.jpg)

Then transferred to a collet in the lathe to cut the thread (M5) and the projection into the bearing (which stops it rotating)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa02.jpg)

Then turned around and screwed into the female M5 fixture to cut the outline and drill 1/4 diameter oil cup before finishing with the hand graver

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa03.jpg)

The cylinder oiler was straight forward turning, dimensions modified to suite the acrylic tube I have.  The ratchet spring is both aesthetically and physically inadequate and needs re-making

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa2.jpg)

I decided that the hold down bolts for the frame would be better with bosses so counter-bored prior to gluing in inserts with JB weld

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa3.jpg)

Similarly for the crankshaft oilers.  The half function on the DRO is so useful for finding centres

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa4.jpg)

The bosses can be seen in this picture where I was testing out the ignition system - gives a nice spark as I waft the rare earth magnet (on the end of the Allen key) across the sensor

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/aa6.jpg)

Stay well (second Covid jab tomorrow  :) )

Rod








Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: RReid on May 06, 2021, 12:36:11 AM
Very nice work Rod, looking good. You may be able to have a combined first Pop and second Jab party.  :DrinkPint:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on May 06, 2021, 07:15:08 AM
Not long now Rod, will you test run before painting?
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on May 15, 2021, 03:17:28 PM

Yes  :)

[youtube1]https://youtu.be/btT6ixnrIq4[/youtube1]

Well, that was quite a surprise  :o  That's the easiest first run I've ever had,  pretty much first pull on the flywheels.  I was actually feeling quite good about it - after grinding in the valves the compression felt good and bouncy but there did not seem to be any movement of the inlet valve.  I made a new and much weaker spring and got a good "parp" as I pulled the flywheels round.  The Hall sensor is positioned to give a spark on or slightly after TDC.  The cylinder is hand hot after 5 minutes so I think I'll do the fan thing as Jason suggested.

Thanks for looking in, I'll post some more pictures when it's painted and, perhaps, sitting on a trolley.

Rod




Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: RReid on May 15, 2021, 03:37:47 PM
Sweet! Gotta love the sound of a smooth running Hit-n-Miss in the morning. Congratulations!
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on May 15, 2021, 03:52:15 PM
Looking good and running well Rod, look forward to seeing it with the fan and a lick of paint and I'm sure you will do a nice job on a wooden sled or cart judging by your other woodworking exploits.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on May 15, 2021, 04:22:44 PM
Congratulation! Your engine is running first time, and very well!  You should be excited about that!  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Here's my non-IC guy question:  I hear this engine hitting 4-5 times in a row, then missing 4-5 times, then hitting again.   Is there a way you can vary the hysteresis in the governor?   I've heard some hit & miss engines that hit 1 or 2 times, then miss a bunch, then hit again 1 or 2 times.  What changes the number of hits vs misses?  (I mean, beyond the obvious speed of the flywheel.)

Thanks,
Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on May 15, 2021, 06:24:04 PM
Kim---you can change the ratio of hits to misses by changing the weight of the counterweights or the strength of the springs that hold the counterweights in place.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on May 15, 2021, 06:36:26 PM
The flywheels also have quite an effect with larger heavier ones storing more momentum so the engine can run longer between hits and combined with that the strength of the hit as a weak firing engine won't put as much energy into the flywheels as one that hits with a big bang. New engines can also be a bit tight in both the ring/piston fit as well as the bearings so you often find an engine will run longer between hits as it beds in.

The model engines seem to suffer the "double hit" more often than the full size sometimes it can be fuel draining back or the different air volume through the carb as the first hit is when the engine is running slow and the second when faster so it draws the air faster and opens the valve better
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Admiral_dk on May 15, 2021, 10:14:24 PM
Congratulation is in order here - very impressive first run and on your first IC too  :praise2:

Now time for a happy dance   :pinkelephant:

Per
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Art K on May 15, 2021, 10:17:35 PM
Rod,
Glad to tune in and see your farm boy running so well! :ThumbsUp:
Art
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on May 15, 2021, 11:20:13 PM
Thanks Brian and Jason.  Appreciate your responses.

Great work on the engine Rod!  It's fun to watch a hit & miss that both hits and misses! :)

Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: crueby on May 15, 2021, 11:31:40 PM
Thats first run? Amazing!  :whoohoo:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Don1966 on May 15, 2021, 11:39:20 PM
Awesome…..  :Love:


 :cheers:
Don
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Pete49 on May 16, 2021, 03:58:23 AM
Excellent work Rod or as we say down here...beauty cobber....well some of us ....a few of us.... ok just me.
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on May 16, 2021, 06:48:31 AM
Excellent  :praise2:  :praise2:  :wine1:

We will have to work out how to calibrate a 'parp' for successful suction inlet valve  :headscratch: That seems to be the cause of many peoples problems  :thinking:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on May 16, 2021, 04:35:10 PM
Very nice, congrats Rod!

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on June 27, 2021, 02:39:27 PM
Thanks for the comments guys.  I've taken the engine apart and the paint is drying. 

A cart for the engine to sit on is going to need wheels and I have become strangely fascinated by this type of wheel which I have seen occasionally at steam fairs.  They seem to be peculiar to manufacturers in the East of England (I stand to be corrected).

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_2.jpg)

The felloe and spoke are bent up from strip, presumably cast into the hub and the tyre is riveted to the felloe.  I decided to have a go at making 4 and 5 spoke versions, 50 and 65mm diameter respectively. 

For the larger wheel I rolled up a length of 1/16" steel strip in my GHT bending rolls

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_3.jpg) 

and silver soldered a butt joint

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel4.jpg)

for the smaller wheel I cut the tyre from 2" bar

I printed assembly jigs with holes to give the rivet spacing for both wheel types

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_5.jpg)

Another jig was printed to form the felloe/spoke around

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_6.jpg)

The spokes are nominally 1mm thick soft steel and were tapped around the former with a drift

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_7.jpg)

The hubs were made form brass, turned and slots for the spokes were milled with a 2mm slot drill

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_9c.jpg)

The bits were assembled in the jig and 1.7mm holes were drilled for 1/16" soft iron dome head rivets

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_8.jpg)

The holes in the rim were countersunk and then riveted to the felloe using this dolly which was just a lump of steel with a seat for the round head cut with a 3mm ball ended endmill

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_9.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_9a.jpg)

The rivets were filed flush with rim and then the whole thing assembled with JB Weld holding the spokes and hub caps in place

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/cart_wheel_9b.jpg)

Having sketched out a few designs I have come round to just using the small wheels to make a hand cart something like this, courtesy of JasonB

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/engiine_hand_cart.jpg)

I hope you have found this digression interesting, thanks for looking in,

Rod















Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: cnr6400 on June 27, 2021, 03:19:24 PM
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: crueby on June 27, 2021, 03:58:36 PM
Very interesting how you used the printed formers, I would not have thought of that!   :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on June 27, 2021, 05:22:03 PM
That's really neat!  I've not seen that kind of spoked wheel before.  Very nice walk-through of your process on making the wheels.  Thank you for taking the time to walk us through your work!   :ThumbsUp: ;D

Kim
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Dave Otto on June 27, 2021, 07:30:47 PM
Nicely done Rod!
Like Kim said I also have never seen wheels constructed that way; it would be a shame not to use all four of them.

Dave
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Jasonb on June 27, 2021, 07:44:16 PM
There is another slightly different view of the handcart here with a hopper cooled engine on it.

https://archive.org/details/ihcvictorfamousg00inte/page/26/mode/2up?view=theater

There are also quite a few photos if you Google "IHC Tom Thumb"

Then you will have to ask Mrs Tangler what she wants the engine to do for her ;)

https://archive.org/details/internationalhar00inte/page/5/mode/1up?view=theater

As for the spare wheels you could make a couple more and then build that Minnie as a portable, saves all that work on the gears and tender :thinking:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on June 28, 2021, 01:41:44 PM
Nicely done Rod!
Like Kim said I also have never seen wheels constructed that way; it would be a shame not to use all four of them.

Dave

Don't fret chaps, I have plans for the other wheels.  My Wyvern needs some attention and I thought I would give it some work to do so have bought one of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124180704900?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D7e9392b3b3ba4837af64026a9819022a%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D124180704900%26itm%3D124180704900%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A89974a2d-d80d-11eb-8f66-26ffcc0fec94%7Cparentrq%3A529f7d4a17a0a647d958f076ffed72ee%7Ciid%3A1 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124180704900?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D7e9392b3b3ba4837af64026a9819022a%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D124180704900%26itm%3D124180704900%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A89974a2d-d80d-11eb-8f66-26ffcc0fec94%7Cparentrq%3A529f7d4a17a0a647d958f076ffed72ee%7Ciid%3A1)

My thoughts are that it could sit on a trolley with the Wyvern.

Cheers,
Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on July 29, 2021, 05:56:43 PM
Some more odds and ends to do while the paint hardens.  It needs a fan so I cut the blades out of 26 thou brass

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/a1a.jpg)

Then gave them twist and soft soldered to the inside of a brass rim

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/a1b.jpg)

I bent up a length of 1/8" steel rod which fits nicely between the fins to secure the mount for the fan

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/a1c.jpg)

I used a couple of my bending tools to wrangle some flat steel bar for the legs

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/a1d.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/a1e.jpg)

So, here she is:

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fb_final_4.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fb_final_3.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fb_final_2.jpg)

(https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/fb_final_1.jpg)

A video will follow shortly...

Stay well,

Rod





Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Brian Rupnow on July 29, 2021, 06:35:52 PM
Well done. I like your engine and the fan.---Brian
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on July 29, 2021, 06:44:22 PM
Looks splendid  :praise2:  :praise2: Can we have a video of it running?  :wine1:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: tangler on July 29, 2021, 06:51:29 PM
For some reason I have to add a 1 to the "youtube" in square brackets >:(

Anyway, here we go

[youtube1]https://youtu.be/mBk6nbwsGks[/youtube1]

Thank you all for the comments, suggestions and support.

Stay well,

Rod

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Roger B on July 29, 2021, 06:53:41 PM
 :) :) :)
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: RReid on July 29, 2021, 08:27:53 PM
That's a great looking and running engine. Congratulations! Beautiful work on the display stand/cart too! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Kim on July 30, 2021, 05:02:17 AM
Beautiful engine, Rod!  It runs as nice as it looks.  I really like your color choices.

Kim

Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Admiral_dk on July 31, 2021, 06:28:09 PM
Fabulous - love the colour and sound  :cheers:
Title: Re: Tangler's Air Cooled Farm Boy
Post by: Vixen on July 31, 2021, 06:44:15 PM
Nice one   8) 8) 8)

Mike
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