Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 01:54:00 PM
This is an RLE:
(http://www.alynfoundry.co.uk/images/rle.jpg)
Well you know I am a sucker for a nice set of castings and when Graham showed me the castings :-\ they had to be had... By the way if anyone is unsure you can tell it is an Alyn Foundry set of castings its by that special protective coating Graham applies to all his castings :lolb:
Jo
P.S. How are those Sphinx castings you are looking after for me Graham :???:
Post by: kvom on November 29, 2017, 01:59:00 PM
Cute little engine.
Post by: b.lindsey on November 29, 2017, 02:15:20 PM
Bill
Post by: Flyboy Jim on November 29, 2017, 02:42:41 PM
Lots of YouTube videos of this engine running. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ombnV0zt0eg
Jim
Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 03:19:26 PM
Pre-aged castings :) They look really nice though, as does the finished engine. Sooooooo....is this the next project?
Bill
Did I mention "next"? :embarassed: Well over the last couple of weeks I had to clean up that protective coating and check for casting flaws... then the base was skimmed under power feed while I was doing other things :-X And then it seemed logical to just put a couple of bolts in to clamp the engine bed to the base to minimise the amount of area it was taking up. So they are currently sitting here.
Jim if Graham says its ok I will post the plans ;).
Jo
Post by: Roger B on November 29, 2017, 03:50:06 PM
Post by: Jim Nic on November 29, 2017, 04:00:33 PM
Now that's got my brain cell working :old:
I haven't done many models from castings and I haven't got a hit'n'miss (or any other IC engine come to that) so the RLE could well suit as a future project, especially if you are going to do some kind of build guidance on here. :thinking:
I have looked at Alyn Foundry website but it was apparently last updated in 2011 and doesn't have alot of info. Do you know if they are still a going concern and whether casting sets and plans are still available?
Jim
Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 04:19:37 PM
I have looked at Alyn Foundry website but it was apparently last updated in 2011 and doesn't have alot of info. Do you know if they are still a going concern and whether casting sets and plans are still available?
Hi Jim, you will have to ask Graham (Alyn Foundry) about castings I am sure he will be along shortly :)
I forgot to mention the engine bed :facepalm: I chose to file the bottom of it rather than skim it on a machine as it is a decidedly odd shape to hold ::)
There was a build article in ME back in 1991 that Stan Bray did but there is no guarantees I will follow that as home machine tools have changed in the last :o 25 years
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on November 29, 2017, 05:36:04 PM
Jo, are you able to edit the title to the thread? R.L.E. stands for Roy's Little Engine after my first born son Roy.
The patina " rust " has developed over the last 10 plus years, your opening photograph shows a complete engine with the finish that was sent out to our customers. Buckley used a combined rumble and shot blast system that made them gleam.
I keep the website up for interest these days but we ceased trading in 2007 after 31 years.
I have a few spare castings here to help out with the odd accident/deficit.... ;)
Having built well into double figures R.L.E.'s over the years please don't hesitate to ask about construction hints and tips.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 05:45:22 PM
Even then it was necessary to put a piece of packing under one of the jaws of the four jaw independent chuck to be able to hold the cylinder to turn the outside. This allowed the use of a rotating centre to support the end of the cylinder whilst the outside of the cylinder was turned to side and shape. I turned a fair bit of the end square while it was set up like this, enough so that it was in what was going to be the bore of the cylinder ;)
At this point the tailstock has to be removed so that the cylinder can be bore. So out came Mr Silky's fixed steady, carefully positioned around that nicely turned outside of the cylinder and the boring bit commenced :naughty: It took a while ::) Before removing the cylinder I used a hand graver to turn the counter bore on the end of the cylinder ( the top slide is still set up for doing taper cocks :Doh: )
So to finish another look at the set of castings and where the engine is now :wine1:
[Title corrected ;) ] Graham have you found the engine number for this engine yet ?
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on November 29, 2017, 06:08:35 PM
What a palava! A big lathe can simplify so many tasks.
My 3 jaw just swallows the cylinder casting, my technique was to rough centre the casting bore and face the flange in one hit. I then had a datum to get the outside diameters machined using an expanding mandrel.
Thanks for editing the title and please check previous PM's, I thought I'd given you a special number?
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jim Nic on November 29, 2017, 06:10:18 PM
Jim
Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 06:17:35 PM
Thanks for editing the title and please check previous PM's, I thought I'd given you a special number?
Found it :facepalm: I was warned that I would suffer from more confusion than normal following my surgery... this week has been particularly bad :-[
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on November 29, 2017, 06:27:34 PM
I'm not really familiar with internal combustion engines, am I right in saying it will run on camping gas but also on petrol ?
Post by: Jasonb on November 29, 2017, 06:36:02 PM
And there was me thinking the name stood for Rusty little engine ;)
Graham, out of interest did you sell many of the air cooled versions as you don't see many of them about mostly all the hopper cooled variety.
J
Post by: Jo on November 29, 2017, 08:41:50 PM
Here they are :cartwheel:.
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on November 29, 2017, 08:56:12 PM
It will run on petrol or liquid camping fuel such as Colmans as is or could have a modified carb so it can run on propane and probably the camping mixes as well.
And there was me thinking the name stood for Rusty little engine ;)
Graham, out of interest did you sell many of the air cooled versions as you don't see many of them about mostly all the hopper cooled variety.
J
Hi Jason.
Originally launched as an air cooled engine, nobody was tempted to buy castings. A good friend suggested the water hopper and " bingo " 300 plus kits were sold.
There might be 4 " out there " all together.
Here's one I built for a customer that recently sold through Cheffins.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on December 04, 2017, 09:02:22 AM
As Mr Silky spent Saturday doing the piston rings for the 5A and Swan he was already covered in Cast Iron dust so it seemed a good time to do the piston and rings for the little RLE. Graham when he designed this pattern clearly thought about it and made the skirt of the piston extra long so you can use it to make the rings.
To start with I had to machine the piston on the solid end of the casting. There is no dimensions on the ring grooves and they seem to be very close to the top of the piston :headscratch: so I decided to machine the grooves 3.2mm down from the top and another 2.4mm down to the second ring slot. (As I was later to find out this would have made the internal bore to the piston a little close to the latter ring gap but I over came this by leaving the internal bore slightly undersize. )
Piston with rings turned this could then be used to hold the casting while I turned and cut the rings from the piston skirt. As you can see I managed to get 7 rings of the skirt. I still had another 2mm of spare piston skirt to machine off before the piston was to length. Leaving the boring for the internal gudgeon pin carrier and to tap it the required 3/8 whit.
I am pleased to report that the piston is a nice sliding fit in the bore. It probably does not need rings :) All 7 of the rings are tucked in the end of the bore
Further updates when my internet access allows it :rant:
Jo
Post by: Jo on December 08, 2017, 05:03:08 PM
I have tracked down the internet access problem :killcomputer: windows :rant: And it will continue to cause problems again :stickpoke: shortly :rant: as it continues to fail to load the latest update (1709) :toilet_claw: :ShakeHead: :censored: :censored:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on December 08, 2017, 10:42:49 PM
Bill
Post by: Roger B on December 09, 2017, 07:16:18 AM
Post by: Jasonb on December 09, 2017, 07:40:20 AM
Post by: Jo on December 09, 2017, 08:24:10 AM
Another two piece piston :headscratch: I saw one on Deltatango's Mastiff build. Do they offer a significant advantage in weight saving or ease of construction?
I asked this of Eric and he told me it was one of those design features people played with back in the 70's/80's, which allowed the inside of the piston to be closer to the correct profile but they are not light :ShakeHead: and I could have under cut under the gudgeon pin boss easy enough on the lathe. In both the Mastiff and this one the pistons are ring carriers so they do not need to be a honed finish for running in the bore, although I would expect the fit of my piston to enable the engine to run without rings. Personally I will be making Ali pistons for my Mastiff.
Maybe Graham can say why he designed the piston this way on this engine.
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on December 09, 2017, 09:41:42 AM
Maybe Graham can say why he designed the piston this way on this engine.
Easier pattern making maybe or the ability to make without a casting?
I suppose that what Eric said would have made machining easier when most hobbiests would have done their milling on a vertical slide so the two piece would be far easier than it is now.
Post by: Ian S C on December 09, 2017, 09:58:20 AM
Ian S C
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 09, 2017, 11:35:24 AM
That design feature goes way back, well beyond the 70’s back to the turn of the 19 th century. Many engine manufacturers chose this method of construction. And as Jason wrote, I do like it!
There are pros and cons, more weight but your gudgeon pin will never score your bore. As the R.L.E. was a freelance design the piston “ yoke “ allowed the constructor to “ play “ with the compression ratio a little.
You’re making nice progress Jo, eagerly waiting for the next stage.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on December 09, 2017, 01:14:39 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 09, 2017, 02:13:18 PM
We have all been busy with things of a non model engineering nature recently, number 3 son is about a third of the way through with piston, cylinder head, cylinder, hopper, mainframe and base all machined. Number 2 son about a quarter. Mathew has posted some pictures on the Chester Machine tools forum also.
With the nasty weather now upon us I don't think there'll be much going on in the workshop for a little while. That's why I'm watching you folks.... ;)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on December 09, 2017, 04:01:09 PM
I did learn that while trying to set up the flywheel for the repair that post-its are 0.1mm thick and grease proof paper is 0.05mm :naughty:
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 09, 2017, 04:41:05 PM
When you say tapered, what was ? The bore?
For thin shim I favour Steel drink cans as there's little to no " squish " as you apply pressure.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on December 09, 2017, 05:11:04 PM
Graham I thought the Welsh were made of sterner stuff not fair weather engineers, suppose that's it until after easter! I've put a bit more in the reject thread for you to follow.
Just seen you have quite a few posts over on Chester's forum so will have a look tonight.
http://www.chesterhobbystore.com/forum-50-w.asp?p=%3Fforum%3D393180
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 09, 2017, 05:37:42 PM
My prescription " antifreeze " has really made me " nesh " ( old English dialect for feeling the cold ) these days.
I too, always bore flywheels as you never know what you're going to find in the hub!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Gas_mantle on December 09, 2017, 06:05:34 PM
Do you still go to the trouble of boring out say 8mm holes ?
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 09, 2017, 06:32:16 PM
I'm interested in what you guys say about boring flywheel hubs, at the moment I tend to make small engines so have been drilling and reaming but have wondered about investing in (or making) some small boring bars, the smallest I have at the mo needs a 13mm minimum dia.
Do you still go to the trouble of boring out say 8mm holes ?
Hello Gas_mantle.
Yes, emphatically yes! I have made HSS boring bars that'll do a 3/16" hole ( 4mm )
I also used to bore the displacer spindle hole for the Robinson hot air engine, they were at 5/16" ( 8mm )
There's nothing worse than seeing a wobbly engine flywheel in my opinion.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on December 09, 2017, 06:42:48 PM
As Graham says with castings there may be a void in the hub or an area of harder material that will throw a drill off and a reamer simply follows the drills path so you may get a suitably sized hole but it won't always be straight and any deviation will be magnified by the large dia of the flywheel.
The other thing with reamers is that they produce a specific size hole, if you buy one here it will most likely give you the nominal size to a tollerance of H7 or on odd occasions H8. However if you are using a bit of bar for a straight shaft or a built up crank that may well not be spot on nominal size so you either need a range of under and over reamers or you can just bore to fit, I stop measuring when I get close and just sneak up on the final size by using the finished part of a bit of the same material as a gauge. Also a reamer may also cut a bit larger or smaller depending on material, size of pilot hole, if you let swarf build up or how sharp it is. Some of this you can get round by making the shaft to fit the reamed hole but it still won't help if it is following a wonky drilled hole.
J
Post by: Gas_mantle on December 09, 2017, 07:55:16 PM
The reamers I have are a beginner / budget set that go from 3mm to 10mm in 1mm steps, they were only about £30 so they aren't great quality and don't always give consistent results.
At the moment the flywheel for my Muncaster engine is a drilled and reamed Lady Stephanie casting, it turned out ok but I'm looking at replacing it with a more decorative curved spoke wheel and it may be time to try the boring out method :)
Post by: Jo on December 11, 2017, 01:12:12 PM
After slotting the centre can be safely cut out from between the webs.
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on December 11, 2017, 01:24:34 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on December 11, 2017, 02:15:56 PM
This will make a very nice little engine!!
Yes, It is a bit of a cutie :embarassed: It will be a lot easier to move around in comparison with those other two big steam engines sitting on the bench in the workshop ::)
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on December 11, 2017, 02:30:46 PM
Post by: b.lindsey on December 11, 2017, 02:38:52 PM
I still have the 'lil brother castings aging under the workbench which also falls into that "cutie" category. Just waiting on retirement now to get to work on some of these casting kits in waiting. May 31 is the date now :D Are you still going to beat me ??
Bill
Post by: Jo on December 11, 2017, 02:49:26 PM
Looks like some areas of Hampshire are snow bound today :disappointed:
They are planning on being ice bound tomorrow ::)
Just waiting on retirement now to get to work on some of these casting kits in waiting. May 31 is the date now :D Are you still going to beat me ??
:'( They are mean and are only letting the production guys go and no engineers :stickpoke: To make matters worse it looks like little Sis is going to get a package about the end of May :ShakeHead: I'm the one who wants it :wallbang:
Bill, did I mention the New Holland and the 1/6th Galloway that are also hidden away :naughty:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on December 11, 2017, 03:11:23 PM
Bill, did I mention the New Holland and the 1/8th Galloway that are also hidden away :naughty:
Jo
That has shrunk since I sold it to you when it was 1/6th scale, hope you have not been keeping it in a damp cabin hoping for it to develope that special coating you love :LittleDevil:
J
PS best get your skates on for tomorrow
Post by: Jo on December 17, 2017, 02:31:57 PM
The top had to be held on the top of the curved surface to enable the bottom to be turned and have a concave inside turned into it. The bottom has a sticky out bit into which the exhaust goes. this was first cleaned up, then used to turn the remainder of that half including drilling and tapping for the thread.
The two bits were then superglued together and brought to identically the same diameter. while together the three spacing holes were drilled 8BA.
Back to pinning reversing gear :paranoia:
Jo
Post by: Jo on December 19, 2017, 02:02:17 PM
Find the correct division plate and mount it up. The drawings are no specific about what gears to use the originals being mechanio :facepalm: so I chose to make mine 40DP 52 tooth and 26 tooth. so that requires a 39 hole dividing plate with a 40:1 worm on the dividing head and 30 holes for the 52 tooth gear and 1 whole turn plus 21 holes for the 26 tooth wheel.
Having selected the correct gear cutter and centralised it, the cutter is brought in so that it just touches, then backed out along the gear spindle direction, the 1.3mm cut put on then it is time to start cutting :whoohoo: One must remember to take the cutter fully clear of the gear before you advance the dividing head before the next cut ::)
It is always nice to watch a gear appearing as if by magic and even better when you don't get half a tooth.
The only question is does it look about right for where the lay shaft will be going :noidea:
Jo
P.S. The gear blank sizes were calculated using my copy of shopCal
Post by: b.lindsey on December 19, 2017, 02:41:25 PM
Bill
Post by: Jasonb on December 19, 2017, 03:55:44 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 19, 2017, 06:13:36 PM
In the mid 80's I would have been considered a " nube " and the use of both cheap and cheerful was the first choice. I think the Meccano gears I used for the prototype were Brass and 50:25 tooth, the 50 tooth wheel being 2 soft soldered together to get some thickness!
Once production started I discovered HPC Gears Ltd and used their 40 DP 52:26 combination. This gave a near 1" centre distance that had been used previously.
The cast lug, as Jason suggests, can be filed to look nice, it was made large to accommodate an idea that wasn't drawn. I fitted a larger metal boss with an eccentric tapped hole so that the gear pair could be finely meshed. A small grubscrew placed vertically downward locked the boss in position.
The crank gear on my engine is driven by a small pin secured into the crankshaft. I didn't like the idea of the governor slider being run over a keyway. The pin is unseen as the gear slips over it, making for a clean look.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on December 19, 2017, 07:01:44 PM
I have been thinking about the larger gear and I had made it so that the cam is part of the Cast Iron but I think I will make the cam separately in Silver steel and harden it before fitting it to the gear.
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on December 19, 2017, 07:06:49 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Third%20Scale%20VJ%20Monitor/DSC02265_zps5lvyjika.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20Scale%20Gade/IMAG3636_zps24ncn1th.jpg)
Post by: crueby on December 19, 2017, 07:13:31 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 19, 2017, 07:54:04 PM
I have been thinking about the larger gear and I had made it so that the cam is part of the Cast Iron but I think I will make the cam separately in Silver steel and harden it before fitting it to the gear.
Jo
Hi Jo.
Well, the decision is ultimately yours but you could simply machine the cam profile using your rotary table and then heat and oil quench the gear for a mild hardness.
Don't forget that the cam follower is made from Brass and is going to wear much faster than the cam. That is of course if you're going to the drawing. Many builders altered the round pushrod to a rectangular one, more in keeping with traditional agricultural engine's of the period.
Whilst we're on the subject of pushrod, are you going to try the improved method of exhaust valve operation?
The drawing shows the nearest valve to the pushrod being operated, at the time I used a fabricated carburettor that screwed into the side face of the cylinder head with the exhaust coming out below. Well....
I found that the engines vibration shook loose the non return valve and before fuel got back to the jet it would stop. My improvement was the little Iron casting for a " tank top " carburettor that entered from below and the exhaust left through the side. The only difference is that the rocker arm is bent and extended over the atmospheric inlet valve. This single change, to my mind made the R.L.E. look far nicer than previously.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on December 19, 2017, 08:00:49 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20Scale%20Gade/IMAG3635_zps50tjf32o.jpg)
EDIT, having said that all the cams have been steel and not iron
Post by: Jo on December 23, 2017, 08:57:49 AM
Whilst we're on the subject of pushrod, are you going to try the improved method of exhaust valve operation?
The drawing shows the nearest valve to the pushrod being operated, at the time I used a fabricated carburettor that screwed into the side face of the cylinder head with the exhaust coming out below. Well....
I found that the engines vibration shook loose the non return valve and before fuel got back to the jet it would stop. My improvement was the little Iron casting for a " tank top " carburettor that entered from below and the exhaust left through the side. The only difference is that the rocker arm is bent and extended over the atmospheric inlet valve. This single change, to my mind made the R.L.E. look far nicer than previously.
Cheers Graham.
:facepalm: Here am I getting constant :stickpoke: because some of my IC engines don't run and I am building the RLE as it is an "easy" build as I was told that even I can get it to run and now it seems that this is not going to be a simple build :ShakeHead:
Maybe I will go back to my aero engines.
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on December 23, 2017, 10:12:05 AM
Sounds to me like the modification will help with running so worth doing. It is also the more common layout on the horizontal hit and miss engines, think almost all the ones I have done have the exhaust on the opposite side to the pushrod though bottom carbs are common.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on December 23, 2017, 11:16:50 AM
Jason, thanks for the suggestion - I belong to this group but seem to look at Smokstak ::)
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 23, 2017, 11:47:23 AM
The modification is dead easy.
The rocker arm starts life from 1/4” by 1/4” BDMS. In my early days with no milling machine the reduction was done with a file. In fact number 103 was built entirely without the use of a milling machine!
I’ll post a closeup photo of the arrangement on 103 later on today.
Number 103 is actually, quite unique. It started out as an air cooled engine and was exhibited on the northern vintage engine circuit. Also advertised as a kit in various periodicals. Zero sales. After the water hopper had been suggested I set too on patterns. My first attempt at the cylinder was a complete, well not quite, failure. I hadn’t taken into consideration how to attach the cylinder head! The casting you bored and honed has a couple of rings sticking out to provide the cylinder head with a fixture, the middle ring can be used to stop the hopper from rotating. Number 103 has no such rings. I had to make a rather complicated tie bar set to pull the head against the hopper and cylinder. Oh, and then there’s the lubricator, mine’s the only one on a stalk. I hadn’t given sufficient width for the 1” by 1/8” BSP oiler! A new and better thought out pattern was made, the rest is history.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 23, 2017, 11:58:35 AM
Increasing the compression ratio on the R.L.E. won’t make starting it any more difficult it will just increase the power output fractionally.
I had been commissioned to build one to drive a dynamo, I found that it coped better with the extra 1/4”.
If you’re just wanting it to run as an engine I’d suggest leaving it as per drawing.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 23, 2017, 01:54:51 PM
103 has spent the summer cutting wood at the Anson Engine museum.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on December 23, 2017, 01:58:27 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 23, 2017, 02:13:17 PM
Looking forward to seeing your progress here if possible?
Here's what I was writing about in my previous post.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMH21SK_BN8
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on December 23, 2017, 06:43:47 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on December 24, 2017, 11:56:18 AM
Yes, I see and also a flat push rod too.
That’s an early kit, raised triangle with raised lettering on the water hopper and no easy means of securing the sub base. That’s an all Rhuddlan Iron kit. Before 2000, the year they closed.
I’d like to take this opportunity to wish you and everyone at MEM a very happy Christmas, hope for the future.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on December 24, 2017, 02:53:36 PM
Post by: RayW on December 25, 2017, 09:05:31 AM
Ray
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 05, 2018, 11:06:35 PM
Since the governor bits and pieces are relatively simple, thoughts have turned to the electrics. My Red Wings both have trembler coil and pickup as per the drawing, but for the RLE I thought I'd use Hall effect switch and CDI setup from Minimag, especially since its a freelance engine design. Its simple to mount it on the far side from the timing gears, running at engine speed and wasting a spark. Does that sound sensible? John.
Post by: Jasonb on January 06, 2018, 04:56:44 PM
The first Hit & Miss that I made had it on that side, the hall sensor fixed into a disc that clamped onto an extended bearing so that you could advance and retard the timing and then a disc fixed to the crankshaft with a grub screw to carry the magnet. It's the two brass discs just above the piston in thiis pic
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/07-8-1.jpg)
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 06, 2018, 06:24:18 PM
Post by: Jasonb on January 06, 2018, 06:35:09 PM
Post by: Jasonb on January 06, 2018, 06:56:21 PM
You can just see the three contacts from the sensor where I have slid the heat shrink back so the actual sensor will easily fit in the slot
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/DSC02438_zpsuuwfol5h.jpg)
And the hole in the other ring for a magnet
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/DSC02439_zps7frprdyu.jpg)
Jo, if you have not got as far as making the bearings for yours then it would be worth making the one on this side 6.35mm longer if you want to mount a hall sensor in teh same way.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 06, 2018, 07:03:36 PM
Its been a busy day and I thank Jason for answering a question that I wouldn’t have been able to.
I’m totally unfamiliar with electronic ignition systems available for models, I’ve stated many times that I prefer the “ Old school “ approach. Good old points and coil!!
I recall one customer using a small magnet let into the flywheel rim and the sensor was made to adjust side to side for advance and retard.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Bluechip on January 06, 2018, 07:05:17 PM
Hope the pic attaches.
Dave
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 06, 2018, 11:40:55 PM
Jason - very good advice to Jo. I have already made bronze bushes for the main bearings and now need to make another elongated one as I think you method of mounting the sensor is excellent. How do I hold the sensor in the slot - epoxy? Thanks for the photos too. The only downside is that looking at them makes me wonder whether to give up! My machining or photography isn't in the same league!
Graham - like you I don't know anything about electronic ignition on models, but am interested to give it a try. This small stuff is a bit of a novelty for me - a week or two ago I was fitting new fuel pumps to my 325HP Cat Challenger 75 which was having starting problems in the cold weather.
John.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 06, 2018, 11:51:08 PM
Post by: b.lindsey on January 07, 2018, 12:17:43 AM
Bill
Post by: Dave Otto on January 07, 2018, 12:29:04 AM
Dave
Post by: Jasonb on January 07, 2018, 07:18:46 AM
You could also make the ring that carries the sensor from an insulating material like Tufnol, corian, etc for a belt and braces job.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 07, 2018, 11:15:16 AM
Jason - I hadn't thought of using silicon sealant as an adhesive. Good idea.
Julian from Minimag suggested Tufnol too. I'll have a look on eBay.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 11, 2018, 06:37:08 PM
The latest in the list - exhaust valve timing. The Redwings are timed so the cam hits the push-rod at 155 degrees after TDC. Does that sound about right?
Thanks in advance! John.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 11, 2018, 07:50:19 PM
I just spotted your post, things move very fast here!
In the ideal situation the exhaust should commence to open around 25 past the hour be nearly fully open just after half past and fully closed at TDC. The important one is fully closed on the hour. This allows the atmospheric inlet valve most time to operate.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 11, 2018, 10:45:00 PM
Wonderful thing, the internet!
Thanks for the information. I'll do some experiments in the workshop tomorrow - I trust my setup will meet your parameters. Once again I have complicated matters by making the cam like one on a Redwing, simply because I'd had experience of them. We'll see.......
Best regards, John.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 12, 2018, 09:50:18 AM
Its fine. Assuming TDC is 00.00 mins, I set it so the cam touched the push-rod bearing at around 00.25 mins, the valve was within a gnat's whisker of fully open at 00.30 mins ( the push-rod actually stops moving at about 00.32 mins) and the valve is completely closed again at around 00.55 mins. A very slightly shorter exhaust stroke than your ideal one. but I reckon it will be ok.
Thanks for the help.
John.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 12, 2018, 11:36:59 AM
I’ve always used the “ clock “ for visualising, my age probably, but perhaps not so useful in the digital age!
You might like to try retarding the half time gear by one tooth because with the exhaust valve shutting at 5 to a slight pressure will be made. This pressure will have to be first dissipated before a negative can allow the inlet valve to open. This shortens the amount of time available for induction of the fuel/air mixture.
The above would be considered “ ideal “ but somewhere near will work for our case.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 12, 2018, 03:56:14 PM
That's a very good point, which hadn't occurred to me. I haven positively fixed the small gear to the crankshaft yet, so can adjust that position if necessary. It would have been simple to make the dwell of the cam a bit longer had I thought about it, but its a bit late for that now. I wonder whether I can fit a slightly larger bearing to the push-rod, which would have the same effect. I'll have a look when I go out to the workshop.
All the best,
John.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on January 12, 2018, 05:39:41 PM
John.
Post by: Jo on January 28, 2018, 11:37:41 AM
There were no dimensions for the location of the valves so I squared up the head in the vice and targeting the centre of the two bosses and found that a spacing of 16mm came about central. Then followed a bit of confusion looking at the diameter of the valve heads at 9.53mm diameter and thinking double that = 19 but they are only spaced 16. Then the grey fog lifted and I realised that it only needed 9.53mm plus a small gap between the valves :Doh: So 16mm is ok.
The drawing then says the head mounting bolts are 2BA clear on the pads. It is a good job I checked the other drawing which says the holes go on a specific PCD ::)
I didn't like the look of those holes :disappointed: But I won't know if they can be over come until I turn it over after lunch :paranoia:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on January 28, 2018, 01:30:46 PM
The couple of R&V engines I have been working on have a good method of placing holes where there are bosses, the drawings have "COB" next to the hole dia. This stands for Center on Boss.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 28, 2018, 02:25:22 PM
They aren't holes as such, notice the shine on the bottom surface, that was trapped gas. Before we got really organised the R.L.E. comprised of " loose " patterns, each part being individually moulded along with others. This method is ok for the odd few castings but if the moulder runs to the " sprue " without
" turbulence " suppression gas can enter with the metal. The R.L.E. was the first kit to get " plated " with very precise running systems.
You could try to remove them by reducing the thickness of the cylinder head a little.
I do have a few spare cylinder head castings left, so if needs be I can get you a replacement.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on January 28, 2018, 03:53:13 PM
The mounting holes when you use the measurements on the cylinder do not line up with the bosses ::) But turning the head over and picking up the holes for the valves and reaming/boring them shows that the valve faces are well clear of those occlusions.
Drilling for the spark plug took a bit of thinking about. First I drew a circle on the underside of the head so I knew where I wanted the sparkplug hole to come out. then brought the line round the side of the head so that I could trace the line up to the sparkplug land. this was then used with the vice inside a vice to provide the correct angle for milling the sparkplug face and pilot drill. Luckily I had a 9mm slot drill to cut the sparkplug pilot hole with, then it was a case of tapping it with the head still at the correct angle.
turning over the moment of truth yes close enough to where I had planned it to come out :cartwheel:
The port angles were equally challenging, especially as I had left the head thick on the rim. I am not sure how big the ports should be but I managed to get a 5.5mm slot drill down both at an angle that join up the 3/8 26 threads I had tapped and the valve holes, without breaking into the reamed valve guide holes
Last bit for today (one mustn't push our luck :hellno: too much has been going wrong of late :disappointed: ) was a bit of filling with JB weld to get rid of the holes and smooth things out a bit.
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 28, 2018, 04:19:21 PM
Just the valve seats to cut and finished!
I see you opted for the " improved " version of inlet/exhaust layout, it does make for a neater look!
Yes 5.5 mm is more than adequate for the transfer ports, we want a quiet runner not a racehorse!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 03, 2018, 04:19:11 PM
Any suggestions please? John.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 03, 2018, 04:43:30 PM
Post by: b.lindsey on February 03, 2018, 04:49:48 PM
Bill
Post by: Alyn Foundry on February 03, 2018, 05:55:25 PM
I must agree with Bill, beautiful craftsmanship and excellent photographs.
I suppose the “ Proops Pac “ is a distant memory? I used to buy their miscellaneous spring assortment as there was always just the right size pair of tension springs in the bag.
Regarding the “ torpedo “ shape well, whatever takes your fancy really! My R.L.E. governor weights were actually from a broken 78 RPM clockwork gramophone governor!
The more “ mass “ you have means a heavier spring will be required. I’m pretty sure I used elastic bands to start with to judge what would become permanent.
Hoping that helps?
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on February 03, 2018, 06:35:52 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/PICT0169.jpg)
Post by: Bluechip on February 03, 2018, 09:12:16 PM
Graham, I thought I'd fit 'torpedo shaped' governor weights on the outside of the flywheel, and wonder whether you can suggest a stockist of small tension springs please? I've found a little compression spring for the over-speed latch-out bar, but don't know what strength to go for between the weights. I'd like the engine to run quite slowly if it will, so presumably they don't want to be too strong, but the websites I have found are asking me how many Newtons - or fractions thereof - they need to be!
Any suggestions please? John.
This Co. has these:
http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01893/spring-set-200pc/dp/FN02651
The dimensions are given but no 'poundage ? ' mentioned.
If you click on the blue label pic. the box contents comes up ! Run your mouse over that and it enlarges
May be cheaper elsewhere, :thinking:
EDIT ...... Maybe not .. ;D
www.amazon.co.uk/Spring-Assortment-Pack-200-Pcs/dp/B01LY9X4RL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517693027&sr=8-1&keywords=5051259011885
Or:
www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-56380-Spring-Asstmnt-200Pcs/dp/B0001K9WH6
I have quite a lot of springs, can you give some idea of the dimensions and I'll have a shufti ... :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 03, 2018, 11:39:49 PM
Dave, a kind offer but it occurs to me that a spring assortment like those you show will come in handy anyway. I'll let you know what happens and meanwhile order a set.
Graham, I now remember adding a rubber band to the springs already there on one of the Redwings by way of an experiment. At least I can see what size the springs are and compare them with assortment contents.
I think I'm right in saying that the main speed control needs to come from the pair of tension springs rather than the compression one, as relying on the latter would cause more pressure and/or wear between moving and stationary bits of the governor assembly?
Post by: Alyn Foundry on February 04, 2018, 11:13:48 AM
Making scrap isn’t necessarily a bad thing as you’re learning how to make something new to you and usually, the replacement part is better quality.
Yes, the little compression spring alters the “ delay “ time of the governor action. The lighter it is the longer the “ miss “ part will be. It’s a bit of a delicate balancing act betwixt the two!
From the photographs I judge your engine to be nearing completion? I’m wondering how you’re going to bolt her down? I noted yours is an early kit made before I introduced the modified sub base with the addition of mounting lugs.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 04, 2018, 06:30:22 PM
Yes, there isn't much more to do now is there. Today I made the knurled nut and bolt with pin through the middle to retain the little spring, after having first milled a little more off the head of the latch-out bar to allow for the head of the pin. Its a bit of a learning curve - prior to making the 3mm pin with 5mm head from a bit of silver steel I was turning and threading a 4" diameter stub-axle to replace a broken one on a set of folding Cambridge rolls.
A long while ago Jason posted some photos of lugs he had made for a similar engine. I'll probably go that way. Funnily enough I was thinking about it today, and one problem that comes to mind is there not being enough horizontal clearance to use an end mill on the rim of the base. Otherwise I could upend the base casting and drill and tap blind fixing-down holes. If they didn't go right through the casting the engine would just appear to have nothing holding it down. I'm thinking for now I'll mount it on a couple of bits of oak like the Redwings, and possibly make a trolley for it at a later date.
Failing the above have you got any alternative suggestions Graham? I don't suppose by any chance you have one of the later base castings lying around?
All the best,
John.
Post by: Jasonb on February 04, 2018, 06:41:29 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Third%20Scale%20VJ%20Monitor/DSC00184_zps46wumya4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Third%20Scale%20VJ%20Monitor/DSC00185_zpsiyydhiel.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Third%20Scale%20VJ%20Monitor/DSC00188_zpshwm5zlbf.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/1-3rd%20Galloway/IMAG1569_zpsacc6068e.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/1-3rd%20Galloway/IMAG1570_zps0c6b1026.jpg)
I don't know how thick the casting is but another option is to mill slots in the bottom and screw sole lugs on from below, just so happen to have been doing some this weekend
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Vertical%2024/DSC02520_zps1stncvez.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Vertical%2024/DSC02532_zpsylvhklut.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Vertical%2024/DSC02534_zpsdfgqzwwb.jpg)
Post by: Alyn Foundry on February 04, 2018, 07:07:02 PM
Typically 103, the prototype sub base was hurriedly drilled and countersunked and four wood screws held her down for the first run.
I also made a few in the manner you wrote about with “ invisible “ fixings!
Jason has provided a few alternative ideas above.
I’m not sure about having any MK 2 bases left over I’ll have to look but they’ll have my very special coating that’s for sure. :)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on February 04, 2018, 07:11:53 PM
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 04, 2018, 10:38:09 PM
Some good suggestions though, not least forgetting the sub-base altogether. Hadn't thought of that!
The lip of the casting is 7mm thick so might just be suitable for fitting lugs underneath. I'll investigate tomorrow.
The simplest thing would be to buy a MK 2 if you can find one Graham, and the special coating is obviously worth a bit extra! :)
Thanks, John.
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 05, 2018, 01:54:58 PM
Attached a couple of photos of the latch-out mechanism. I made the little adjustable plate this morning, recessed to fit over the pushrod. The pin is still waiting for its spring, which sits back into the latch-out bar. The knurls on the adjuster are coarser than I'd like but I've only got one set of knurling wheels, bought to do bigger jobs.
John.
Post by: Jo on February 16, 2018, 04:34:32 PM
The cylinder needs four holes drilled and tapped at the right angles to enable the cylinder head to be attached.
I thought of all sorts of ways of boring out the hopper but in the end chose to hold it in a four jaw chuck. Time got the better of me so I have not finished the boring bit :disappointed:
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on February 16, 2018, 04:40:27 PM
To be honest that's the best (and simplest ) way to bore the Hopper IMO.
You're progressing nicely. :ThumbsUp:
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on February 16, 2018, 07:13:09 PM
Hopefully finish it off tomorrow
Jo
Post by: Jo on February 17, 2018, 04:12:31 PM
Its a ringing good fit I don't think it will need any gasket goo to keep the water in ;D
After that it must be time for some :DrinkPint:
Jo
Post by: Roger B on February 17, 2018, 04:51:48 PM
Post by: Jo on February 18, 2018, 02:15:43 PM
How big is the chuck you used for the hopper?
That is a 250mm chuck, its not one you want to get your fingers underneath when putting it down :hellno:
Progress was slow today. Not much to show for it :disappointed: a bit of facing, took to length and width then drilled and counter bored the main bearing caps. Finally Tgs got the crank case mounted up ready for the next job.
I did test out some Oxford green paint on the inside of the base still not sure :thinking: ..at least it is not as bad as boy racer red :facepalm2:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on February 18, 2018, 05:04:15 PM
J
PS blue with gold wheels is the real boy racer colour ;)
Post by: Alyn Foundry on February 18, 2018, 05:48:08 PM
That is a 250mm chuck, its not one you want to get your fingers underneath when putting it down :hellno:
Jo
Good grief Jo.
And here’s me thinking that 8” was more than adequate, for a chuck! That’s what I have, bought brand new from Rotogrip nigh on 30 years ago.
I assume you meant to type “ main bearings “ not “ big end “ ?
Machining the castings was always pleasurable to me, making the fiddly bits not so much. Good progress, I’m interested in seeing how you go about the line boring.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on February 19, 2018, 01:44:44 PM
A check of the numbers shows that when running there is a huge gap above the piston so I can move the crankshaft centre line forward a millimetre and nothing will hit.
Hidden on the other side of the casting is the face which the large gear will be brushing against which has also been milled with a vertical face.
:thinking: Shall I line bore it using the Y axis power feed as it is set up or turn it and use the Z axis power feed :thinking: Have I got the horizontal draw bars :noidea:
Jo
Post by: Jo on February 23, 2018, 04:22:43 PM
So bearings bored [missing picture :( ] Checked with a bit of 11.1mm for fit :D Slid the gear over the end, took the spindle back 24.8mm chucked up a piece of 8mm and poked the other gear on this. Checked the fit with a bit of round and round testing [missing picture :disappointed: ]
Drilled and tapped for the gear mounting bolt and looked at the gap behind the gear :thinking: Then decided that Graham's bush idea wasn't bad as it needs a bush behind the gear anyway so bored the threaded hole out to 8m. I need to machine up the bush next
Time to buy a new camera :facepalm:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on February 23, 2018, 05:08:59 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on February 23, 2018, 05:42:05 PM
I've ordered a cheap and not too nasty Cannon 285 for workshop use - it does more than my old one did and shares the same controls so I will know what I am doing. I could pick it up tomorrow afternoon... or spend more time playing in the workshop :noidea:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on February 23, 2018, 06:33:16 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on February 24, 2018, 01:30:53 PM
One pic with the back up camera. The new one has just arrived :cartwheel:
Jo
Post by: Vixen on February 24, 2018, 01:43:04 PM
My good lady gave me one of those Cannon 285's for Christmas. A handy little camera, works well.
My PC is as old as the hills and still runs well on Win XP. Unfortunately Cannon are unable to provide a driver to send the Photos to the Win XP PC by wireless and there is no USB connection. So it's memory card swapping for me.
You keeping well?
Mike
Post by: Jo on February 24, 2018, 02:07:58 PM
I am waiting for the battery to charge so I have not tried it yet :-\ Wireless transfers might be interesting :thinking:
I am still breathing I am sure I will feel much better when they force me to take early retirement :embarassed:
Jo
Post by: Jo on February 24, 2018, 05:10:17 PM
The stud holes in the front of the base must not be located in the middle of the lands :ShakeHead: if you do so the nut will hit on the side of the cylinder wall. Instead I put them at 54mm apart which gave 1mm of air.
A few family shots while I learn about this new camera...
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on February 24, 2018, 05:14:10 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on February 25, 2018, 03:48:48 PM
All this time wasted on playing with the camera means that I only got a little done on the RLE today :-\
Edit: I am totally unimpressed with the Wifi as it must have been burning through the battery power as I have only taken six picture with the new camera and am already having to recharge it :rant: There is a Mini-B USB port on the side which is much quicker to connect up to. I don't think I will bother with the WiFi :disappointed:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on February 25, 2018, 05:54:36 PM
Just need to get you to post the photos in the threads now rather than attachments, when the Fibre broadband gets connected you will have no excuse for little attachments. :LittleDevil:
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on February 27, 2018, 06:35:01 PM
John.
Post by: Jo on February 27, 2018, 07:15:06 PM
Jo
Post by: Roger B on February 27, 2018, 07:43:07 PM
Post by: fumopuc on February 27, 2018, 07:53:25 PM
Post by: crueby on February 27, 2018, 08:54:00 PM
Here it is -14°C every morning in the car port. We expect -17°C for tomorrow morning.Look at it this way, thats about 250something in Kelvin. Heat wave!! :Lol:
Post by: Jo on March 02, 2018, 03:18:06 PM
If you recall the crankshaft bearing caps were left over thick. the first stage was to calculate a suitable set of measurements (Graham's drawings allow plenty of scope to add measurements ::) ) and then mill/file to suit. I chose 19mm diameter tops to the caps and 5.5mm thick bits where they clamp down.
The plates on and caps in place - not sure if the plate is that see able hidden under the hopper :thinking:
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 02, 2018, 04:39:00 PM
It’s taking shape now, well done.
All those “ fiddly “ bits to follow, for me personally the worst bits !! Machining castings is the most pleasurable part IMO.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 02, 2018, 09:43:46 PM
I got a bit ahead of myself with my own project (The Lauson Build) and at this point need a long reach end mill to clean out some material from the crankcase so while the end mill is in transit I’ve been taking the opportunity to look at some other threads.
While at the Cabin Fever Expo in Lebanon PA. this January I succumbed to temptation and purchased Bob Herder's Myers Engine hit-and-miss casting set. This makes a beautiful side shaft engine and had I not been so involved in the Lauson I would probably have started it by now.
The beginning of this thread reminds me of my own purchase; you stating being a “sucker for a nice set of castings”. I find myself with too many projects and not enough time to pursue them all.
Anyway, it’s been fun catching up on this thread (and several others) and I find myself eager to see it proceed. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Craig
Post by: Jo on March 03, 2018, 04:08:51 PM
The beginning of this thread reminds me of my own purchase; you stating being a “sucker for a nice set of castings”. I find myself with too many projects and not enough time to pursue them all.
There is no such thing as too many casting sets :hellno: Think of the enjoyment to be had fondling them dreaming of the hours of workshop fun they represent.
I felt it was important to go for that original factory look and feel for the connecting rod so it took a while to find a suitable piece of stock :naughty:
The end was milled flat and a piece for the end cap cut off. The end of the bar was then remilled square. You will notice that I did not put the bolt holes in - this is because the two holes are very small and the holes constitute long holes this means that there is a good chance the drill will wander :Doh: Much easier to use the mill to accurately cut the holes in the cap and avoid any wandering. The holes can then be tapped and the cap attached bolts (and superglue just in case such little bolts try unscrewing with the vibration :facepalm2: ).
The rod can now be set up and the little end drilled and reamed and the big end bored. I have chosen to make the big end 13.5mm this just misses the bolt holes which have been spaced at 16.4mm apart (chosen so that the corners of the bolt doesn't overhang the sides of the rod). While the rod is still in the vice the two sides can have a little taken off to taken the top end down to the 6.35mm thickness while leaving a little more on the big end to support round the crank pin.
The two sides are tapered by making two buttons to go into the two holes, then drilling and tapping two holes in a piece of scrap which had been bolted onto Tgs bed having offset one of the holes by 1.6mm to provide the required taper once clamped up ;) Both sides were then milled, first once side then flip it over for the other side (actually there was a bit more flipping to make sure everything is cut centrally ).
At this point I started feeling tired :( and while I looked into mounting up the connecting rod for little end milling and spotted that the end of the rod was going to hit the scale :facepalm: so a bit more thinking was required so I decided better of it. I did have a quick check of the con rod on the engine
Jo
Post by: Jo on March 04, 2018, 12:22:10 PM
The last part for the connecting rod assy is the big end bush which Sexy swarf maker has begun work on by using a slitting saw to cut through the end of a piece of bronze which was then parted off and soft soldered onto the main bar.
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on March 04, 2018, 01:33:07 PM
Coming along well, I'm making a conrod too :)
Post by: Jo on March 04, 2018, 03:09:28 PM
The big end bearing was initially turned on the outside and fitted in the connecting rod before drilling and reaming the bearing while it is held in a collet. This means that while turning the groove on the outside there is the maximum soldered bearing surface to hold things together and by holding the bearing in the collet while boring it prevents the bearing splitting open during the reaming ;)
Having put the piston on the end and assembled the rod on the crankshaft I am pleased to say everything lined up :whoohoo: Except the piston skirt caught the inside of the base casting and a little had to be ground off :facepalm:
Having slid the flywheels on it is possible to do some round and round testing ;D
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on March 04, 2018, 04:14:28 PM
So what stops the 'brasses' rotating in the con-rod ? Or have I missed that bit some where :thinking:
( Someone appears to have a toasty warm workshop ... I have 4.1oC in mine and dense fog outside ... had an hour then abandoned it ).
Dave
Post by: Jo on March 04, 2018, 04:24:20 PM
So what stops the 'brasses' rotating in the con-rod ? Or have I missed that bit some where :thinking:
They are a tight fit in the con rod Dave, the hole in the middle is a running fit ;)
My workshop was actually warmer than the house when I came back in. Time now for a bit of embroidery before I start thinking about going back to w**k :toilet_claw:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on March 04, 2018, 05:49:46 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on March 04, 2018, 06:51:01 PM
It was an odd can of paint that Dave gave me :)
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on March 04, 2018, 07:17:18 PM
It was a can of paint odd Dave gave me ..... :Lol:
If it's Oxford Green it'll have a RAL number I expect.
Sorry to hear about the w :censored: k wotsit. My condolences. :'(
Dave
EDIT Or not ... :headscratch:
http://www.srlltd.co.uk/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/ral-chart.pdf
Post by: Jo on March 08, 2018, 01:20:25 PM
Finally I spotted the drawing feature: the stems are supposed to be 4.76mm diameter not 3.18mm. Does the head drawing show the diameter :ShakeHead: does the valve drawing show the diameter :disappointed: It is the collet that goes over the valve that finally give it as 4.76mm diameter :stickpoke: and then I went to the ME article to see his valves look nothing like the drawing either as they have 4.76mm diameter valve stems...
So the plan is to start all over again, not forgetting that the head needs the two holes taken out to the new diameter as well :(
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 08, 2018, 02:16:34 PM
I suppose 31 years later we could amend the drawings ?
I'm sorry for your pain I guess a few others must have done the same. The problem was never pointed out to me however.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on March 08, 2018, 04:02:17 PM
Post by: Jo on March 08, 2018, 04:09:38 PM
Jo
Post by: Manorfarmdenton on March 09, 2018, 09:18:30 AM
John.
Post by: Jo on March 11, 2018, 04:36:37 PM
The valve spring collets seemed a little over thick :thinking: to get enough movement in the valves I chose to take a little off the head and a little off the spring collets. Now came the next opportunity the tops of the valve stem guides are of a bigger diameter than the spring collets ::)
Jo
Post by: Jo on March 11, 2018, 04:41:03 PM
Find a couple of suitable bits of spring from the light weight come-in-handy spring box and it is time to start looking at this odd shaped casting :headscratch:
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 11, 2018, 05:11:22 PM
Don't forget that the inlet valve spring needs to be a little lighter than the exhaust one. ;)
" Odd shaped casting "
That's the rocker support bracket you're talking about! ;)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 11, 2018, 09:32:16 PM
Post by: Jo on March 13, 2018, 01:23:36 PM
Yes, Graham is right it is the rocker arm support bracket ;) It seemed to be a long way from the point where the bracket bolted on to the head and the valve so I thought I would have a look at my old R&B rocker to see if that was about the right size... What it quickly showed up was that the line from the cam to the bracket had to be a lot shorter than the distance from the inner edge of the bracket to the valve that was going to be operated :thinking: the pivot point for the rocker had to be moved over.. Assuming that the push rod goes centrally through a curve on the end of the bracket I could just about remove 6.7mm off the front of the casting.
Where it bolts on to the head requires that the inner face of the casting is reduced but there is only 16mm on head there and :o the huge (2BA) mounting bolt is supposed to go on the valve line and allowing for the 2BA head even the thread is going to be a bit close to the top of the casting :paranoia: That is going to have to change..
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 13, 2018, 02:24:27 PM
Nip back to post number 58 you'll see a picture of mine. If you're concerned about 2 BA you could always opt for 4 BA. I probably " over " engineered it back then ( early days ) after all it's not a great strain to operate that little valve spring ! ;)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 14, 2018, 01:16:20 PM
I have been tickling the bracket a little more and it is now mounting on the head using two 5 BA screws :) there is enough space to put two counter sunk screws in there, then the whole lot could be blended into he head and made to look like a single piece :noidea:
I have also drilled it for the push rod. This was not as easy as it may first look as I wanted to make sure the rod went parallel to the centre line of the engine so a little fettling of the bracket shape was needed to get it to sit right on the head.
I still need to transfer the guide hole onto the cylinder casting and decide on the pivot point for the rocker arm :thinking:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on March 14, 2018, 03:04:34 PM
Bill
Post by: Jo on March 14, 2018, 03:41:52 PM
I am surprised that Graham is not enquiring if anyone would like a set of these castings as they are making up to a very cute little engine :embarassed:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on March 14, 2018, 04:24:47 PM
Bill
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 14, 2018, 04:36:50 PM
Let's see what happens, there's a trip scheduled to the foundry in the next few weeks.
There IS a " fly in the ointment " the R.L.E. was one of my kits that lost a plate to theft. This plate had carb, rocker support bracket, main bearing cap and cylinder head patterns, times 2.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 14, 2018, 07:24:29 PM
Have to think a bit more on the carb as it is double sided :thinking:
I must say these little hit and miss engines can grow on you... not enough to want to paint them RED :facepalm2:
Jo
P.S. Surus is still convinced if he polishes the New Holland castings up enough he will find they are made of solid gold after the price that one went for last night ::)
Post by: Jasonb on March 14, 2018, 07:49:01 PM
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on March 14, 2018, 08:45:57 PM
Cletus
Post by: b.lindsey on March 14, 2018, 10:23:47 PM
Bill
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 15, 2018, 11:30:35 AM
The fact that the pattern plate was stolen isn't really the issue, as I have all the " master " wooden patterns in my possession.
What many don't understand is the " precise " running system on the plate that helps prevent things like turbulence and inclusions from happening, " feeders " to prevent shrinkage etc. Foundry work is an art as much as a science!
Regarding shipping, I used to have an agent in the States, C.B. Schrock he used something called a consolidated shipping system. My role was to get the boxes to the airport. This proved way cheaper than any other method. We found that prices were much cheaper on your side of the pond than ours!
So far the few castings that I have machined from this new foundry have been reasonable but, no where near the quality of Buckley!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on March 15, 2018, 12:18:20 PM
(http://www.alynfoundry.co.uk/images/rlepat.jpg)
I would think having to use individual patterns would also put the cost up now that you will be having to pay the foundry rather than ramming them up etc yourself.
Do the different foundies use different cast irons or use specific ones for certain jobs. I have had some castings that seem to have a very high graphite content and are like machining chalk, others can be harder but do not make your hands as dirty so assume less graphite.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 15, 2018, 04:18:41 PM
With regard to your first sentence, no, those were the " actual " Aluminium masters that made every R.L.E.
Iron casting that followed, including Jo's set.
Regarding the Iron well it's anyone's guess. Yes there are many grades " municipal " was one to be avoided at all costs!! Rhuddlan used to produce " Cupola " Iron with an approximate grade of 17. Buckley used
" Induction " crucible Iron where the grade could be very accurately established, my castings were made from their own recipe, grade " M " ( machinable )
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on March 15, 2018, 05:56:08 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 15, 2018, 06:05:36 PM
Yes, that's correct.
The wooden " primary " masters would be made with " double " shrinkage factored in, if making a true scale model like the Robinson or Gardner engine.
The R.L.E. however was my own design so this double shrinkage allowance wasn't nessessary. The cylindrical castings are for the piston with extra skirt for making the piston rings. The smaller diameter is called a " core print " made long so as to not require special fixing of the sand core.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 17, 2018, 03:53:14 PM
The bolt for the cam also acts as the governor arm pivot so that needed slotting and the pivot hole drilled. I was going to do the governor arm but that needs a bit more thinking about :paranoia: So opted for the rocker arm :noidea:
The rocker started off as a piece of 16mm by 10ish which had a pivot point put in about the right place and the two sides taken down to leave 4.76mm in the middle where it goes through the rocker pivot arm. Then the two ends were cut down before a bit of initial shaping. Before going any further I decided it would be necessary to finish machining the rocker arm bracket first and it was getting late :-\
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 17, 2018, 05:20:48 PM
The top photo made me smile....
It looks to me like my old company name has been used on a " new " range of cordless drills! :)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 18, 2018, 03:25:03 PM
Today was more rocker arm profiling. This included adding a bush in the arm so that it is running on the pivot pin rather than steel on steel. I added an adjuster for the end of the push rod but started getting concerned about the geometry :thinking: As the rod comes forward there is a tendency to push the rod from side to side as the ball end pushes inward :o To over come this I have increased the diameter of the socket in the adjuster but maybe a completely different type of rod end would be better.
Moving down the engine I needed to know how long the push rod needed to be and that required that the cam was finished off. So mounting on a mandrel, with a washer on the top of the correct diameter for the root of the cam, the cam was machined to the artistic shape shown on the drawing ::)
I can now look to decide what to do at the end of the rod: It needs a big flat on the side of the push plate to work against the side of the gear to keep everything square on the round push rod and a trippy bit a little way along. I probably should think about the governor arm while I am at it :noidea:
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on March 18, 2018, 04:41:15 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 18, 2018, 05:14:12 PM
Looking good :)
Indeed....
Jo will have to consult the workshop manual for the " cold " exhaust valve tappet clearance! :)
The inlet clearance is MASSIVE!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 18, 2018, 06:27:11 PM
I am still thinking about the arrangement for the other end of the push rod and :headscratch: I still have not worked out how the ignition points are going to be arranged. Ever since my op last year I have been struggling to think straight :( I have even tried giving up :wine1: :disappointed:
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 18, 2018, 07:03:16 PM
Not the :wine1:....
A nice glass of Red has ended my day, every day since my heart do, good for you, you know! ;)
Well, as they say " up North " there's nowt wrong with simple, KISS.... The Brass half moon has lasted well over 30 years on my engine.
Being " old school " I favour simple points/condenser coil arrangements again KISS....
Ultimately though, it's your engine, do it your way.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on March 18, 2018, 07:05:14 PM
Have a look at the other RLE thread for position of hall sensor or contact points on the opposite side of the engine to the gears.
Post by: Jo on March 19, 2018, 01:32:21 PM
I rather got lost trying to find anything in the other thread there are too many pictures of non RLE stuff in there :noidea:
For the other end of the push rod I decided to go for something like Graham's original drawing but simplified it to use a single bit of brass with a bit of gauge plate screwed on the side of the brass. Hardening gauge plate is easy but dropping a red hot bit of plate into a bucket of water that has been outside for a few days when it has been bitterly cold then trying to put your hand in the water to find it again is not to be advised :ShakeHead:
Shaping up the brass was done by hand with the push rod hole drilled centrally using a square 5C collet by sticking the bit of brass in from the rear of the collet ;) The hole has been tapped 6BA for the screw.
The resulting follower can now be pushed on the end of the rod and can be later tapped to take the 6BA rod once the required rod length is better understood :)
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 19, 2018, 01:47:54 PM
What a novel approach, I like it!! :)
Nice glass of :wine1: and some sleep works wonders.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Roger B on March 19, 2018, 03:40:30 PM
Post by: Jasonb on March 19, 2018, 04:31:50 PM
Jason: The motion of the rocker means the socket in the rod goes from side to side as the rocker is pushed.
Jo
Yes I know that and it is why I said you could do away with the bracket at the head end as the small amount of sideways movement will be minimal where the rod passes through the hole in the cylinder flange so unlikely to make things go tight. Like this which runs OK
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/07-10-1.jpg)
The other simple option is to have a slot in the end of the rocker for the clevis pin to fit into that way you can keep the bracket if you want to.Like this off the galloway
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/1-3rd%20Galloway/IMAG1903_zps4521471b.jpg)
Or stick with the rounded rod end and socket on the rocker and just do away with the bracket. Just like the Gade which runs very well
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20Scale%20Gade/PICT0493_zpspitqhzya.jpg)
Ignition contacts were actually in this thread, have a look from No 65 onwards. You can use a hall sensor as per that discussion or have an insulated contact on the moving part that had the hall sensor and a small metal contact on the moving part if you don't want to use a hall sensor. Your starting box will work with either arrangement.
Post by: Jo on March 19, 2018, 06:56:12 PM
JB: The offset on the rod caused by the rocker movement varies from 0.15mm if the pivot is alongside the rocker pivot to 1.6mm where I have it 6.35mm back from the centre line. So to keep the RLE looking like Grahams son's original engine and to maximise the use of Grahams excellent castings :embarassed: The simple answer surely is to is to make the hole in the arm into a slot 6.35mm by 4.76mm or slightly longer to allow for adjustment of the tappet gap and how the variation in position alters the sideways movement of the arm :noidea:
Ignition contacts were actually in this thread, have a look from No 65 onwards.
That would account for me not being able to find them ::) I am still thinking about the ignition arrangements, I would like something more period :thinking: But that is for later.
Jo
Post by: michaelr on March 19, 2018, 07:00:17 PM
Post by: Jo on March 20, 2018, 06:54:36 PM
Question for you Graham... I am trying to work out how long the catch arm needs to be to hold the exhaust valve out sufficiently to work: Is it just slightly off its seat or should it catch at the full extent :noidea:
And how big should the gap be above the valve when the rod is resting ::)
Jo
Post by: michaelr on March 20, 2018, 07:20:02 PM
Mike.
Post by: Gas_mantle on March 20, 2018, 07:43:57 PM
As the risk of asking a daft question how long can they run on say a gallon of petrol ?
Post by: Jasonb on March 20, 2018, 07:49:54 PM
You would get a couple of days running from a gallon of fuel.
Jo I usually have the latch hold the exhaust about 3/4 open and just a hint of light showing between rocker and valve. You can't latch them fully open as the rod needs to slide part way back to engage on the latch.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 20, 2018, 08:11:20 PM
I was out in the workshop with Nattie.
Jo.
As Jason has already stated the valve tappet clearance 6 to 8 Thousands of an inch. I like to see about 3/4 of the full travel for the latch position. This ensures both a good " freewheeling " action and an unlatch when the next cycle commences. The more open you can keep the exhaust valve the less likelihood of pulling a mixture through the atmospheric inlet.
Peter.
Yes the R.L.E. was meant to run on Petrol or Propane and a Gallon of petrol would probably get so " stale " you wouldn't get to finish it!
Before I converted mine to be a " Dragsaw " the old 1 Ounce tobacco tin tank could do almost a day on the rally field.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Gas_mantle on March 20, 2018, 08:40:06 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 20, 2018, 09:42:42 PM
Let's look at this the other way around.
We've all become used to running our " hit and miss " engines on the governor. However, the governors were only there to prevent " overspeeding " if the load should suddenly disappear, like a belt snapping or coming off the drive pulley. We set the control springs light so that they just run above idle speed.
This form of governor shouldn't be confused with other types that control the speed via quantative means,
" throttle governed " where the air volume is varied to suit the load condition.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 25, 2018, 05:20:53 PM
I needed a couple of 1.6mm diameter pins about 14mm long for the governor latch so Mr Silky turned these down in one from 3mm Stainless for me :) One of these pins was for the spring on the latch and the other is the pivot pin for the arm. Checking the movement: sufficient clearance and governor holds and trips off as required :)
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 25, 2018, 06:08:05 PM
Very nice workmanship, lovely. :)
How does the exhaust valve timing look? For these engines the only real concern is that it closes at, or slightly before TDC.
The commencement of the exhaust cycle can start anywhere from, in clock speak, 20 past the hour, but 25 to 27 minutes is better.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: tangler on March 25, 2018, 07:55:33 PM
I always liked the RLE. Sadly, by the time I got round to getting a kit they were no longer available :( . Not the least of it's attractions is the fact that it's cast iron rather than the ally of most of the alternatives. Great to have Graham's comments as well.
Looking forward to the video ;)
Rod
Post by: Jo on March 26, 2018, 09:12:43 AM
No idea on the timing Graham. I wouldn't know what to look for :ShakeHead: The crank gear is not yet pinned.
Rod the video is a long way off here is still lots of bits to make on this engine and unknown challenges to overcome :facepalm2: . I know I am on holiday this week but not all the time will be spent in the workshop but I note that the rain Gods are planning on encouraging my workshop time.
I fancy doing a bit more of the governor bits today but the sun is out and the garden is looking nice :noidea:
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on March 26, 2018, 10:08:27 AM
I fancy doing a bit more of the governor bits today but the sun is out and the garden is looking nice :noidea:
Jo
Rather intrigued by this governor mechanism, you'll have to give me a demo when I come down .. :ThumbsUp:
Get yourself out into the garden while the weather is OK. You can indulge in casting bothering any time ... :stickpoke:
Just filled your firewood bag ... :)
Dave
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 26, 2018, 12:09:56 PM
Thanks Graham and Rod :)
No idea on the timing Graham. I wouldn't know what to look for :ShakeHead: The crank gear is not yet pinned.
Jo
Good morning Jo.
Then please, let me enlighten you.
Mark a tooth on the crank pinion and slide it back onto the crankshaft. Remove your spark plug. Set your halftime pinion so that the cam is just touching the follower. Proceed to rotate the crank pinion and watch the valve first open then close again. If things are perfect, you would see that the crank pinion had rotated 180 degrees for this cycle.
As it's highly unlikely to be perfect the first time you will have to compromise a little. If the operation is accomplished in less than 180 degrees of crank rotation you still need to set exhaust fully closed at TDC.
Usually the case is more than 180 degrees so the exhaust still must close at TDC but can commence to open before BDC.
Once you're happy with the timing, mark the pinion and crankshaft for subsequent pinning.
I hope this helps, but please don't hesitate to ask further questions if necessary.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on March 26, 2018, 12:16:50 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 26, 2018, 01:06:39 PM
Well....
If we were talking " high performance " then yes the extra lift would see catastrophic damage to both valve and piston. However....
With an approximate 1/2" of clearance between piston and cylinder head or even 1/4" with the higher compression alternative there's little chance of a collision.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 26, 2018, 06:13:01 PM
:-[ It was too nice outside so I spent most of the day sieving compost and putting it on my flowerbeds (having first weeded the flower beds) :cartwheel:
A little bit of swarf was made: I scribbled up a design for the bracket to go on the flywheel for the weights, first drilled the various holes and started machining it. Then I got side tracked :facepalm: into making a stand for my drawings and then having seen someone's rather nice PC mounting in his workshop decided to make use of a couple of someone's cast offs and provided MEM live streamed to the workshop :whoohoo:
:thinking: This is getting very homely I could add a fridge... No, No wine/beer and machine shops do not mix :hellno:
Jo
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on March 27, 2018, 12:11:02 AM
Big E
Post by: b.lindsey on March 27, 2018, 12:14:25 AM
Bill
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on March 27, 2018, 01:13:25 AM
Cletus
Post by: Jo on March 27, 2018, 08:28:54 AM
Though I do joke that the hair on my head just relocated to different locations on my body :lolb:
Too much detail :o Next you will be making out that I must like grey and wrinkly because of Surus :ShakeHead: He's cute, ok so he has a few habits that need moulding - like his idea that all new casting sets that turn up at home belong to him :noidea: and how he has taken to sleeping in the casting cupboard and in the middle of the night can be heard rummaging through the castings, he claims it is just him trying to get comfortable ::)
Its workshop weather today :cartwheel:
Jo
Post by: Jo on March 27, 2018, 06:45:00 PM
Then on to the arms themselves. Using a bit of my best scrap-binium milled into a 12mm by 8 mm block the two ends were milled first on either side then turned 90 degrees and the other two sides milled. This stick could then be marked out and drilled for the pivot hoes and main bar holes. I decided that I liked the idea of big brass weights so these were turned up and the whole lot fitted together...
About this point I found another of Graham's special features :Doh: Can you see it ::)
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 27, 2018, 06:55:11 PM
Post by: Bluechip on March 27, 2018, 08:44:41 PM
About this point I found another of Graham's special features :Doh: Can you see it ::)
Jo
No ... :headscratch:
How about letting us poor sinners off the hook and telling us ??
Dave :cheers:
Post by: Jo on March 28, 2018, 07:20:53 AM
I had wondered why I had noticed on the RLEs that had the original tripping mechanism fitted why they had extended the middle spacing section, now I know :(
Sorry there will be no swarf making today on the RLE I am off to my supplier to raid his
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on March 28, 2018, 09:34:24 AM
I'll have to let you give me a demo. when I come down ... :)
Meanwhile, here in the somewhat parky East Midlands, I shall continue junk sorting ... the shop can wait.
L.M.F.
Dave
Post by: michaelr on March 28, 2018, 11:30:30 AM
Jo. Before you alter anything with the governor arms/bracket, you should be able to adjust the bracket position to give clearance when it is attached to the flywheel,my RLE has the standard bracket as drawing.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 28, 2018, 11:50:31 AM
Ha, you beat me to it! :)
Jo needs to fit the assembly to the flywheel to get a better picture of the working relationship of the parts.
There might require a little bit of " fine " finishing, I sometimes had to remove a little metal from the governor support bracket, just above the pivots.
Otherwise everything is moving forward very nicely, well done Jo.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 28, 2018, 04:16:54 PM
I'll give it a another fiddle with tomorrow Graham .... Update on my attempts to pick up a set of Governor springs from my Supplier, it failed :(
However it was not all lost as I thought I came back with a few sets of castings but it now seems I have two (Cave Cobra and an Osam) and Surus tells me his is the proud owner of a S8G (Surus' Big Gas) Engine and is busy guarding the boxes he has stuffed it in :noidea:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on March 28, 2018, 04:28:14 PM
Couple of biro springs with the ends bent so you can use them as tension ones work quite well as governor springs or just wind your own.
Post by: Bluechip on March 28, 2018, 04:40:07 PM
I'll see if I have any. Also what sort of gauge / tension . Stiff or floppy ?? ( ;D )
Dave
EDIT Pic. Att. You choose ....
Post by: Alyn Foundry on March 28, 2018, 04:55:36 PM
Tell Dumbo to get out the way so we can have a decent look at those gas engine castings ;)
I concur.
I notice a pattern for the cylinder liner....
A square cored hole, I'm intrigued.... Stuart Turner??
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on March 28, 2018, 06:08:50 PM
I have loads of poi-oingies here ... about how long between centres of the end loops do you want?
I'll see if I have any. Also what sort of gauge / tension . Stiff or floppy ?? ( ;D )
:naughty: Bring them down with your Dave and we can see what seems right :ThumbsUp:
Tell Dumbo to get out the way so we can have a decent look at those gas engine castings ;)
I concur.
He heard that :ShakeHead: I have set a lure of cheese and port in the other room and he watched it go through so now has realised the time and is in two minds as to which he prefers to do stay with his new casting boxes or be sociable :wine1:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on March 28, 2018, 06:34:49 PM
I notice a pattern for the cylinder liner....
I suspect someone has been upto their old tricks of making recasts from castings, under that paint is probably the original casting that has had a core print added to each end so copies can be made. :-X
Post by: Jo on March 29, 2018, 09:19:43 AM
I suspect someone has been upto their old tricks of making recasts from castings, under that paint is probably the original casting that has had a core print added to each end so copies can be made. :-X
Yes that is a recast from a the original casting that seemingly had had one of the lugs broken off. It was one of the two castings in this set with problems :( I need to see if I can get someone :pinkelephant: to let me have the cylinder head and I will have a look at how to repair the couple of casting faults in that later.
My supplier also tried tempting me with a set of Gardner gas engine castings :stickpoke:
I've reviewed the governor fit: If I take the pin out of the latch arm and let it touch the weight arms as shown it moves forward 1.2mm and reduces the movement in the weight arms but with careful positioning of the flywheel it is probably enough if I widen the centre section to 4.76mm wide. The alternative would be to modify the ends of the weight arms so that where the "beak" is in the middle of the block at the end of the arms it is at the top that would itself gain the required gap. I'm going for the widened spacer ::)
Jo
Post by: Jo on March 30, 2018, 04:54:41 PM
The carb required the base turned flat and central hole turned round and drilled and tapped for mounting on the fuel tank. To do this it first had to be squared up so that it could be held in a four jaw. After turning it was repositioned so that the end boss was central and that was also faced, drilled and tapped.
Then the end hole that joins the central hole and the engine feed could be drilled thorough. Finally the mounting hole pads could be milled to thickness and the holes drilled through... a little fill to clean things up before priming and forgetting to take a photograph :facepalm:
Jo
Post by: Jo on April 01, 2018, 05:09:55 PM
The cylinder has not yet been correctly mounted on the base: to do this the surface where the nut goes need undercutting to make it level where the mounting nuts go. This required a reverse pull cutter to be made, which came from a dog end of silver steel (while I was at it I also made a slightly smaller reverse cutter from the other end of the dog end as one must not waste material :hellno: ) The cutter was turned up with a 2BA thread in the inside and the teeth arranged such that when used the cutter did not try turning off the end of the rod ;)
The last bit on the cylinder before painting was to drill and tap for the oiler. It is located by mounting the cylinder on the base and making sure it is on the centre line of the connecting rod. As you can see the boss and the cylinder centre line are not in line so a bit of fettling was needed to make the boss look symmetrical around the oiler location. The drawings show the oiler as having a HUGE :o BSP mounting, I decide having seen the commercial oilers that I wanted something smaller and I will have to make it so I have drilled and tapped the top of the cylinder 0BA for the oiler.
I have decided to go for a simple lost spark ignition system and hopefully that shouldn't take long to make so I hope to have the running crew visit later in the week. Hopefully the gap under the crank is adequate to prevent crushing of any thumbs ::)
In the meantime the last casting in this set has now been machined so it is time to go and get some more casting sets out so I can decide which engine to build next :pinkelephant:
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on April 01, 2018, 07:31:01 PM
I can almost hear the bangs from here ... :D
You certainly need a brisk forage about in my stock of poi-oingies ... that governor spring appears to have had a good dose of abuse and torture.
Looks like something I've had a go at .... :lolb:
Dave
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 01, 2018, 07:38:49 PM
Never mind about looking for the " next " set....
The best bit is just about ready to happen!! For me the culmination of hours, the RUN !!
I'm a little unsure of how anyone could get thumbs actually under the flywheels as all that should be needed is a gentle pull backwards.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on April 02, 2018, 07:15:01 AM
Hi Graham one has to start thinking about the next engine, it is not just a case of doing the next one that comes out of the casting cupboard :hellno:. Can you imagine getting to the end of a build and not having identified what to build next? Next thing I could be off filling my time with nothing particular and it may be years before I come back to making model engines :(
It is not the Flywheels that did the damage last time: Jason put his thumb on the engine base just under the crank throw on my R&B just as he gave it a good pull over and I have never heard the last of it. Especially the bit where he thought I might kiss it better :lolb:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on April 02, 2018, 07:31:59 AM
I also went for a smaller thread on the X-types oiler, 1/4x40 is my usual choice so your 0BA is about the same though on the metric engines I go with M6x0.75
Post by: Jo on April 02, 2018, 07:37:14 AM
I seem to remember it was you turning the engine over while I held it down that did the damage. :'(
No, I was hanging onto the stand at the end and you had the cranking handle and put your hand round the back of the engine to steady it further, don't try blaming anyone else :hellno: That started a trend now everyone thinks if they injure themselves on my engines they get special treatment :facepalm:
Jo
Post by: Roger B on April 02, 2018, 07:50:15 AM
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 02, 2018, 12:15:53 PM
I've sort of considered buying a set of castings and trying to make my own so I really want to see this completed.
Post by: Jo on April 02, 2018, 12:31:34 PM
Don't be giving up now that you are on the home straight, I want to see the engine running :)
:headscratch: Who said anything about giving up. I mentioned starting to decide what model I wanted to make next, which means looking through my casting collection.
Running this engine won't be before Sunday when Dave will be bringing down his stock of poi-oingies so I can find a suitable pair :ThumbsUp:
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 02, 2018, 12:40:00 PM
I'd quite like to have a go making one but I want to see yours running first :pinkelephant:
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 02, 2018, 12:43:28 PM
Well I suppose it'll give you some time to sort out your ignition system.
I used to fit a small cam on the non geared side between the main bearing and flywheel. A 4 BA grubscrew being put in the centre of the flat to reduce wear on the " heel " of the point set.
Contrary to common belief the condenser can be fitted at the coil side, not on view!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 02, 2018, 09:05:10 PM
Any idea what it weighs or what hp it can deliver?
Cheers :D
Post by: Jo on April 08, 2018, 03:45:46 PM
Thanks Dave for the springs ;D
Jo
P.S. All the Taters are in :cartwheel:
Post by: Bluechip on April 08, 2018, 04:50:58 PM
Sorry Peter, I missed that :facepalm: next time.. I had other things on my mind like going back to w**k :toilet_claw:
Thanks Dave for the springs ;D
Jo
P.S. All the Taters are in :cartwheel:
Hi Jo
Nae bother. You're welcome to them. :) I'll have to bite the bullet and get the rest sorted better :( Then you can have another go :ThumbsUp:
I'm hoping my garden will dry up a bit this week and I'll crack it over with the Mantis. It is improving but still a bit wet. Not late yet.
Happy Tatering then .. ;D
Dave
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 08, 2018, 04:53:50 PM
What, or who, is "poi-oingies".
All I can find is a Hawaiian dish and a commune in France.
Post by: Bluechip on April 08, 2018, 05:10:27 PM
What, or who, is "poi-oingies".
Technical term for 'springs' :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 08, 2018, 05:33:36 PM
What, or who, is "poi-oingies".
Technical term for 'springs' :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Ah! A thingie with a name. Thanks! :ThumbsUp:
Post by: crueby on April 08, 2018, 05:38:34 PM
Zee, in Pennsylvania its called a Sproingie, after the sound it makes bouncing on the floor, one of those regional thingies... :Lol:
What, or who, is "poi-oingies".
Technical term for 'springs' :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Ah! A thingie with a name. Thanks! :ThumbsUp:
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 09, 2018, 11:45:38 AM
Jo, it's looking great :-) Next time you take a family shot can you show it next to something for scale, I struggle a bit to appreciate the size.
Any idea what it weighs or what hp it can deliver?
Cheers :D
Good morning Peter.
I too missed your post....
Please visit Alynfoundry.co.uk you'll find the technical specifications for all the kits available at the time.
I've forgotten the total weight but the flywheel diameter is around 7 inches and the engine will develop one eighth of a HP comfortably.
Are we there yet Jo? :)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on April 09, 2018, 11:50:48 AM
Are we there yet Jo? :)
:ShakeHead: I had the Model Engineering Exhibition Judge come and inspect it :toilet_claw: He picked holes :stickpoke: I have been told rework is required :facepalm:
If that is not bad enough I am back at w*!k :paranoia:
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 09, 2018, 01:28:55 PM
Good morning Peter.
I too missed your post....
Please visit Alynfoundry.co.uk you'll find the technical specifications for all the kits available at the time.
I've forgotten the total weight but the flywheel diameter is around 7 inches and the engine will develop one eighth of a HP comfortably.
Are we there yet Jo? :)
Cheers Graham.
Thanks Graham I'll take a look, I bet it can give a nasty bite if you get your fingers in the wrong place ;)
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 09, 2018, 01:51:11 PM
Are we there yet Jo? :)
:ShakeHead: I had the Model Engineering Exhibition Judge come and inspect it :toilet_claw: He picked holes :stickpoke: I have been told rework is required :facepalm:
If that is not bad enough I am back at w*!k :paranoia:
Jo
Rework??
Who's this judge then?
Obviously I can only assess your workwomenship from your pictorial record but I cannot see anything that might delay a run.
As a " by the way " how many revolutions do you get, with the spark plug removed by pulling the flywheels away from the cylinder backwards? This is a good indication of how tight or hopefully not too loose a fit everything is.
Ah, you mentioned that naughty four letter word.... Hmmm, I remember that one.... ;)
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on April 09, 2018, 01:55:47 PM
I bet if you had been able to slip him two more Jaffas you would have got a gold :LittleDevil:
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 09, 2018, 02:03:27 PM
Thanks Graham I'll take a look, I bet it can give a nasty bite if you get your fingers in the wrong place ;)
Hi Peter.
As with all moving machinery a little care is needed, I managed to remove a chunk of flesh from my forefinger by getting it caught on the governor control latch of number 103 way, way back.
My Lister " P " type deftly removed the end of my right thumb and my 3 HP Powell broke my little finger, so yes, care is of the utmost importance!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 09, 2018, 05:25:05 PM
Post by: Jo on April 09, 2018, 06:11:14 PM
Rework??
Who's this judge then?
Obviously I can only assess your workwomenship from your pictorial record but I cannot see anything that might delay a run.
Judge = Eric Offen who judges the stationary engines (amongst other classes) at the MEX and other shows :-[
He complained that the crankshaft was not freely running and it needed honing out and I just had to find an extra long hone to use on smelly to do it :-\ Then that the crankshaft was bent as it was slightly tight at one point more than the rest of the rotation and then the flywheel fit, despite the painted one having very little run out <0.1mm when you put a dial on it and turn the crank ... Wait and see the engine bouncing around as it is running without any balance weights and see if you can see 0.1mm run out on one side of one of the flywheel :stickpoke: then there was the "where are the balance weights".
The crank fit has been honed by putting a bit of oil on another bit of silver steel and twirling it around - so I assume that was some paint in the bore or something. The crank has a 5 hundredths of a mm run out :facepalm2:
So sort out the crank and then play with the flywheels again in the meantime suffer with the boy being rude about the fit. Is it any wonder people don't like to post their engine builds when they see members making such comments about someone else's build, it is really off putting, I hate to think what newbies think about his comments :ShakeHead:
As Eric so generous mentioned on Thursday: The problem is that all my fits are like a virgin when on an engine often as not should be more like a Whore :facepalm2:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on April 09, 2018, 06:39:15 PM
Bill
Post by: Jasonb on April 09, 2018, 06:57:31 PM
Try clocking the crank with one end held in a collet as the slight pressure from the tailstock can "spring" the crank back into the position you turned it in and then when taken off it moves.
You do make fairly tight engines as I have mentioned before, with the conrod off you should be able to spin the crank and flywheels for some time but have no noticeable slop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTnp2QMo4Dk
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 09, 2018, 07:55:08 PM
Alex always said " you can't fit a 5/8" peg in a 5/8" hole " .. In other words a little tolerance is required, fine fitting.
As Jason has already pointed out, check your runout using a collet with the other end of the crankshaft free. This will show accurately any discrepancies. Usually a " smart " rap with a rubber mallet can adjust a few thou!
How's the piston to bore fit? That's another area where a couple of thou makes a huge difference.
Regarding the engine having no ballance weights, ideally we're looking for a running speed of 350/400 RPM. At this speed with a reasonably good mounting plinth you'll not have any trouble. There's nothing stopping you from making a couple of weights that can screw onto the rectangular webs however.
As posted earlier, you're looking for at least a few revolutions freewheeling with the plug out.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: NickG on April 09, 2018, 11:37:02 PM
It to be any tighter, a bit of slop in it shouldn’t hurt too
Much but if it’s too tight it won’t run at all.
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Post by: Manorfarmdenton on April 10, 2018, 10:37:59 AM
My RLE was too tight to run initially, but a session of rotating it with a drill soon got it loosened up. Slightly slackening the big end nuts helped! Then it didn't have much compression but more turning by drill followed by running under its own power gradually brought that up. Now I can start it by hand, so its getting there. I should have taken a leaf out of your book and painted as I went along - now I've got a lot of messy black-looking oily castings to try to get clean!
John.
Post by: Jo on April 10, 2018, 11:46:04 AM
The problem with Eric is he likes everything perfect and runs away with his advice even when you are constantly telling him that you have not done the final fit yet or yes you know that needs doing :facepalm2: He is a very useful person to make comments on an engine and unlike others does not seek to score points by being rude about your efforts. Trying to capture all of it (and stop him dismantling your engines one after another :facepalm: ) in time is a bit more tricky.
Oily castings are difficult to get paint to stick on ::)
For the picky one: the crankshaft WITHOUT a flywheel if given a flick spins for 4 rotations before coming to a halt. If you put a HUGE flywheel on a little crank then give it a flick... surprise, surprise it goes round and round for a long time. As I mentioned previously I am not happy with the flywheel fit but unlike him I am honest enough to admit to my failures. Eric and I have investigated and identified why the bore went slightly oversized.
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on April 10, 2018, 12:36:22 PM
Well that's good news regarding 4 revolutions of the crank without flywheels. :ThumbsUp:
How easy is it to push the piston up the cylinder? You shouldn't need too much pressure.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on April 10, 2018, 01:11:30 PM
How easy is it to push the piston up the cylinder? You shouldn't need too much pressure.
Wait for it, wait for it.... Currently the silky fit means that it would probably run without rings.
I have still to get out and make the cam to go on the crank, which had been next on the list but I seem to have wasted ages measuring the crank as it is springing all over the place. I'm off to play with some castings that are sitting on the dining room table :paranoia:
Jo
Post by: Jo on May 29, 2018, 05:31:19 PM
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on May 29, 2018, 05:45:41 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on May 29, 2018, 06:05:40 PM
Getting closer to :pinkelephant: time
Hmmm, perhaps not....
There's no oil in it !! ;)
Post by: Jo on May 29, 2018, 06:53:30 PM
Getting closer to :pinkelephant: time
That's Thursday if I bring him back another set of castings.
Work continues... mainly gardening ( which never seems to end ) and house maintenance :facepalm: Its at time like these I think how nice it could be to have a handyman around the house to do things for me :slap:
Jo
Post by: Jo on June 01, 2018, 04:30:09 PM
Two days later back in Big C's three jaw both were bored out to be a tight fit on the crank. From the rim side of the repair bushes the broach was passed through and finally Big C took both faces of the centre of the flywheel down to width.
Next I need to splodge a bit of paint on that other flywheel :thinking: but there are still flower beds to plant up :-\
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on June 01, 2018, 06:16:53 PM
Can you confirm that the keyways in the flywheels intersect between the bushes and the parent metal?
I'm more than a little concerned that if you're relying upon the adhesive to hold the bushes solely you'll have a couple of minutes running before the shock breaks them.
My comments are based upon actual experience.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on June 01, 2018, 07:15:35 PM
I could pin the bushes to the rest of the flywheel if needed :thinking: The governor bracket screws act as pins on one of the flywheels ;)
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on June 02, 2018, 11:44:29 AM
Yes indeed, the governor support bracket screws will provide a good mechanical joint between the bush and flywheel.
It may be prudent to do the same with the other bush? 3 by 6 BA countersunk screws placed at 120 degrees coinciding with the root of 3 spokes would add much needed strength.
I have mentioned, in the past, that when Loctite 638 first appeared I made a couple of R.L.E. crankshafts and glued them. They failed miserably! In fact the opening picture of an R.L.E. in this thread is one of the engines that had failed. Look closely at the offset in the spokes. I always strived to match the keyway position to the spokes perfectly.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: NickG on June 04, 2018, 09:01:58 PM
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Post by: Jo on June 05, 2018, 06:54:40 AM
Looking good Jo, are you going to attempt to start this one or has the other still got you running scared?!?
This one will be started at the appropriate time ::). Since the Felgiebel sliced the end of Eric's thumb we have run the AHC Diesel for the first time and would have run the Atom but Eric had taken it apart :facepalm: he has a habit of doing that before we run any of my engines :slap:
Jo
Post by: Jo on June 17, 2018, 03:33:49 PM
Hopefully I will be able to finish her off during a couple of lunch times during the week. In the meantime I think I need to enter into some negotiation for the next set of engine castings :noidea:
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on June 17, 2018, 03:40:00 PM
Where does the coal go? ;)
Post by: Dave Otto on June 17, 2018, 04:53:58 PM
Dave
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 18, 2018, 02:57:27 PM
What prevents it from tilting to a side?
Post by: Jo on June 18, 2018, 06:52:04 PM
The middle oiler is interesting to me.
What prevents it from tilting to a side?
Zee, the threaded bit fixing it to the big end cap was carefully threaded/turned so that when tight it made the cup sit vertically. then it was secured to the cap using thread lock to prevent it coming undone ;)
I think I have been allowed to have another set of castings from the store cupboard, they have been allowed as far as the dining table :wine1:
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on June 18, 2018, 07:00:07 PM
Post by: Jo on June 19, 2018, 05:49:41 PM
And the good news is that negotiation seems to be complete and Surus has exchanged No 503 for another set of model engine castings :pinkelephant:
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on June 19, 2018, 06:00:08 PM
Bill
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on June 19, 2018, 06:05:25 PM
Big E
Post by: Alyn Foundry on June 19, 2018, 06:06:27 PM
I too am waiting in anticipation of the first run video.
Somethings irking me though, I can't see a filling hole and cap on your fuel tank.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Mike Bondarczuk on June 19, 2018, 06:20:23 PM
Looking forward to the next instalment in your build library.
Mike
Post by: Jo on June 19, 2018, 06:23:00 PM
Graham the fuel tank comes apart... I have not yet decided if I want to make it look untidy with a filling cap, it is much easier to slide the bottom off.
Hi Mike - long time no see ::) have you been making any swarf in your workshop?
Jo
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 19, 2018, 06:24:07 PM
I too look forward to the video.
Post by: Jasonb on June 19, 2018, 06:38:32 PM
J
PS don't forget a breather hole in that filler cap or top cover.
Post by: Alyn Foundry on June 19, 2018, 06:59:54 PM
I can understand the " cosmetic " point of view but as Jason has commented you will need a " vent " to allow the carburettor to function properly.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: NickG on June 19, 2018, 07:56:22 PM
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Post by: Bluechip on June 19, 2018, 08:00:00 PM
That really is looking rather splendid ... :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
So when does it get it's first bang / lose it's cherry / whatever ???? ( :D )
I presume you ARE going to run it ??
Dave
Post by: Admiral_dk on June 19, 2018, 09:48:38 PM
Post by: Jo on June 20, 2018, 06:34:43 AM
I presume you ARE going to run it ??
:Mad: I do not run engines on my own. Hopefully Eric has already practised taking this one apart enough that when he visits we can try running it ::)
Very beautiful Jo - but is an engine finished without the ignition parts installed :noidea: ;)
Thanks, The cam and points are hiding under the flywheel, it just needs my ignition box connected up to it ;)
Jo
Post by: Jo on August 16, 2018, 07:55:44 AM
So this engine will not be going and I have some repair work to do. I will have to remake that part in steel :thinking: and then there is repainting :Doh:
Jo
Post by: Bluechip on August 16, 2018, 08:15:20 AM
Hmmmmm ...
The perils of milling sharp internal corners perchance ??
Shame though .... :'(
Must be the day for it. I have just 'Plummet Tested' a cereal bowl.
It failed miserably. :facepalm2:
Dave
Post by: Alyn Foundry on August 16, 2018, 11:14:42 AM
I bet the air was Blue for a while?
I'm saddened to read that number 503 won't be attending the Bristol show as my kits were a little different from the usual " mainstream " exhibition models.
A dab of 638 could be a temporary repair as the engine will be static.
A more permanent repair would be to Silver solder the broken piece back using Tenacity number 5 as the flux. This would keep things original.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: RayW on August 16, 2018, 11:59:49 AM
Looking forward to seeing the first running.
Ray
Post by: Vixen on August 16, 2018, 12:20:20 PM
While you are at the Bristol Show, have a word with CuP Alloys and find a silver solder paste with the correct flux for cast iron. You should be able to do an almost invisible repair, just like a jeweler's repair.
Mike
Post by: Jo on August 16, 2018, 12:38:32 PM
I've prised the broken part off and am trying some 638 on it (again).
I have drawn it up but am not feeling too confident about having a replacement done today as I am busy with other things :-\
Jo
Post by: Vixen on August 16, 2018, 12:58:29 PM
I thought 638 was a high strength gap filling 'retainer', rather than an 'adhesive'. Superglue with a zap spray would give you a stronger temporary repair. If you try 638 or superglue you will not be able to use silver solder afterwards.
Mike
Post by: Jasonb on August 16, 2018, 01:15:25 PM
I thought you were not going to be entering or is someone going to bring it home for you so you still get a free entry ticket
Graham, did you see this one?
http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/RLE_40cc_engine.html
Post by: Roger B on September 06, 2018, 12:07:37 PM
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2018, 01:34:32 PM
As for the RLE the replacement arm was lost somewhere in the workshop just before the Bristol show and I am still waiting for it to materialise :noidea: In the meantime I am doing fastners again :-\
Jo
P.S. You could say hello to my DRO fitted Praizmat if you visited :-X
Post by: Jasonb on September 06, 2018, 02:48:39 PM
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2018, 02:53:19 PM
Jo
Post by: Alyn Foundry on September 06, 2018, 03:02:17 PM
Would you like a replacement rocker bracket casting?
I'm down in the Midlands next week to pick up the platform castings I could give one to Andy.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2018, 04:59:14 PM
If you are coming over the border any chance of bringing that pair of lightweight Stuart flywheels with you to save on the postage, I am sure Andy will love looking after them for a couple of weeks ;)
Jo
Post by: Chipmaster on September 06, 2018, 05:12:58 PM
Handover over at the Midland show, another car park rendezvous ?
Andy
Post by: Alyn Foundry on September 06, 2018, 05:38:17 PM
Thanks Graham but once I find what the Workshop Gnome has done with it I will be using the one I started :)
If you are coming over the border any chance of bringing that pair of lightweight Stuart flywheels with you to save on the postage, I am sure Andy will love looking after them for a couple of weeks ;)
Jo
Hi Jo.
Well.... I'm still thinking about " those " lightweight flywheels as you call them.
Thing is they're not as easily replaced in this day and age. And I also wonder if Andy knows what he's letting himself into??
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2018, 05:47:22 PM
Did we agree on Friday :noidea:
Well.... I'm still thinking about " those " lightweight flywheels as you call them......and I also wonder if Andy knows what he's letting himself into??
:lolb: :-X
They must be 'light'weight as the engine needs two of them ;)
Jo
Post by: Chipmaster on September 06, 2018, 07:02:27 PM
The Midlands exhibition opens on Thursday 18th October, I can do the Thursday or Friday but prefer first day if possible.
Andy
Post by: Jasonb on September 06, 2018, 07:13:01 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on September 06, 2018, 07:28:20 PM
Hmmm.... Start thinking on 16 inches in diameter nearly 3 inches across the face and a double figures of Kilograms..... EACH!!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jo on September 06, 2018, 07:31:54 PM
My drawings show 14" diameter and 2 1/4" :thinking: Andy is a big strong gentleman ;)
Jo
Post by: Chipmaster on September 06, 2018, 07:45:28 PM
Andy
Post by: Chipmaster on September 06, 2018, 07:50:14 PM
Having seen the picture I reckon they would be lighter than Lister D flywheels so I could carry those for you :ThumbsUp:
Andy
Post by: Jasonb on September 12, 2018, 08:54:09 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ombnV0zt0eg
Post by: Alyn Foundry on September 13, 2018, 11:48:34 AM
Yes, yet another beautifully built engine with quite a few " owners own " modifications!
I'm sure that engine was built by a good friend, Dennis several years ago. He also built one of my half scale Gardner's.
Dennis has a keen eye for detail and presentation, readers might recall the video link I posted on the Otto thread that showed the engine running nicely on the governor.
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Jasonb on September 13, 2018, 01:11:08 PM
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyEbXhihZ3fBRhotpcYVuSA
Post by: Chipmaster on September 18, 2018, 05:25:03 PM
Andy
Post by: Jo on September 18, 2018, 05:27:47 PM
See you on Thursday morning at the midlands show :)
Jo
Post by: Jasonb on September 18, 2018, 05:46:54 PM
Did you get any other photos Andy?
Post by: Chipmaster on September 18, 2018, 06:23:02 PM
Andy
Post by: RayW on December 06, 2018, 03:50:25 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R-L-E-Alyn-Foundry-Hit-Miss-Gas-Petrol-Stationary-Engine/312357252498?hash=item48b9f16d92:g:Q3gAAOSwe9VcCDx9
Post by: Gas_mantle on December 11, 2018, 09:15:51 PM
I've decided to buy a set of castings from Graham and hope to start mine in January.
Post by: Jo on December 11, 2018, 09:29:21 PM
Trying to get the two Robinson's completed before the talk the other week rather took me over :-[ that and all the goings on with huge trees being taken out, Minx arriving, having my water mains messed around with :Mad: my track resurfaced and the resulting giant mole hills appearing all over the place and other hassle has discouraged me doing anything with her :disappointed:
The parts are done but it will need a little work to be as smooth a finish once together as the original was. Then I can look at running her ;)
Jo
Post by: Gas_mantle on December 11, 2018, 09:33:04 PM
I'm mainly interested in steam but all the recent chat in the forum about IC engines has grabbed my interest so I've decided to have a go. I think it will be a challenge for me to get one running but I'm up for a challenge :)
Post by: Jo on January 06, 2019, 04:03:04 PM
Jo
Post by: Roger B on January 06, 2019, 04:15:49 PM
Post by: Jasonb on January 06, 2019, 04:20:01 PM
Post by: Alyn Foundry on January 06, 2019, 05:28:36 PM
I like your " curvy " lines to the rocker arm, just shows how an individual can alter the engine to their own tastes.
Seeing her run would bring me the greatest of pleasure!
Cheers Graham.
Post by: Gas_mantle on January 06, 2019, 05:44:01 PM
I decided to take the plunge and buy a set of castings so I'm hoping to start mine sometime next month :cartwheel:
Post by: Jo on March 26, 2019, 06:14:42 PM
What had happened was that the distance for the guide bush from the head must have been a fraction off so I made an offset bush and fitted that. The engine flicks over and makes naughty sounds :facepalm2: so I think we are ready to book the running crew and see if we can get this engine running.
Jo
Post by: b.lindsey on March 26, 2019, 06:20:42 PM
Bill
Post by: Jasonb on March 26, 2019, 06:22:23 PM
Post by: Admiral_dk on March 26, 2019, 07:19:38 PM
Quote
Fingers crossed for you (and kept well out of the way)
Are you talking from experience Jason or just remembering those less fortunate who helped Jo earlier ;)
Nice engine Jo, and I do hope that it runs without any injuries to those around it :cheers:
Post by: Jasonb on March 26, 2019, 07:32:25 PM
Post by: Jo on March 26, 2019, 07:56:08 PM
And it was his own fault: he tried poking his thumb at the back of the engine bed plate where it bends down between the two crankshaft bearings (to clear the crankshaft throw ;) ) so that he could get a better swing on the starting handle. He can't blame my engine - it wasn't running :hellno:
Jo
1. Eric was told no driving for a week but when he realised he had missed out on having it kissed better he was back the following day to collect his car ::)
Post by: Jasonb on March 26, 2019, 08:00:36 PM
He can't blame my engine - it wasn't running :hellno:
No change there then :LittleDevil:
Have you made a starting handle for this one or just hoping to flick the flywheels? At least they won't have so much momentum behind them as the R&B did.