Model Engine Maker

Engines => Your Own Design => Topic started by: Craig DeShong on January 08, 2018, 12:19:49 AM

Title: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 08, 2018, 12:19:49 AM
I haven’t really started this build yet; might not even pursue this much further depending on potential problems I could encounter during the design but I thought I’d start this post and name it so that if the build proceeds, everything can be together.

I usually start a new design around this time of year, with the shop so cold that getting work done out there is out of the question.  I have lots of time to think about a new potential project and start working out the details.  There is a tremendous amount of design work that goes into one of these models even though they are “scale” models of full size engines.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NAYwnqPCw3qurHp1M6OSXLgRCU3TNUrq2Tx10W63yc0qgU8cb2IoIbQ3a5JR5gkF3_DixNeVL8EPcpi0O1A19YqCd35822xgvRemJrkyHMzFTBh8p5PJZcpHYwQb_kZLr3x5FuEZEA=w2400)


Above is a view of the full size engine I plan to model; the topic of this post/thread.  I suspect most of my readers aren’t familiar with Lauson products.  The Lauson LA is a single cylinder air cooled small engine that Lauson built in the early 1930’s.  It has a bore and stroke of 2 ½ x 2 ½ inches.  The camshaft rides on a mandrel and is driven by helical cross gears off the crankshaft, a flyweight governor attaches to the rear of the camshaft to control the throttle of the Tillotson float carburetor.  The engine incorporates an oil pump, pumping oil into a dipper trough for splash lubrication and it has an interesting kick start mechanism.  All this I plan on modeling. 
The model will be built at ½ scale, which will result in a model that stands around six inches tall, about the same height as the Lauson TLC I built a few years ago.  The engine incorporates a Wico type FG flywheel magneto, and I’m toying with the idea of building this magneto in scale (as opposed to using battery/coil as I have with my other Lauson models).

The frigid temperatures of the past week have provided me with lots of time to begin the design.  Following are a few CAD images of the design do far.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_Z9lh0_corQN2SgVUdBZlw-vvqYxmLj564oZcICSWmSmkDb_WKzWBl1S0t2uWd-NDvtsUheGqlz6BSCPHZdBULPCVASj_dLO2JaVs-C2R1nY0o0CXPCkLXEHMVLqICXbD4aMgTXcLQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/30InvCOiRwZihU1MOWlO_-dhgeg0KG6rHUj1EE1l5kx72CgMQ9mVNw3aD26cmik0cZrjzf6TPPUcDbSPz65OxR6JE5ng3P5uQwEqOP2SJjjrBQ96p6FOuUMBl_nricuWha9ItA2Z-A=w2400)

As you can see, the design of the block is fairly well along.  I started cheating on some of the finer detail at the top of the block because the whole top of the engine is covered in sheet metal as you can see from the picture of the full size above.

Lastly, I’ll give you an exploded view of the block components.  This block would be difficult / impossible for ME to fabricate as one piece (no castings in this model) but I think I can manage the shown parts and then fit them together.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XhX1j-CRd9fuyXP3lW4Gl3AIOol3uz09OkdaROdjbMxuvHNuqZp8y_U9qznpQNgc78gSVybAxHAz9rxsCMyy2sebowd-quhli8mhsB2sKhxFMownGvMqOoNp00cFmSLiJ-3QWCvdCg=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on January 08, 2018, 12:36:35 AM
Looks great so far Craig!! I can sympathize with the cold temps, wasn't able to do a thing in the shop this weekend. Good this to do design work inside where it's warm as you say. Will be following along.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: crueby on January 08, 2018, 02:45:01 AM
Very interesting looking engine. What were the originals used for, typically?
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: 10KPete on January 08, 2018, 04:51:50 AM
All the early Maytag washing machines had a little engine like that. The Lady could step on the pedal to start it!

Modern conveniences...

Pete
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 08, 2018, 04:40:16 PM
Lauson Built model types RA and RAB; these were 1/2 HP washing machine engines.  I've never seen either, and only have a picture of a RA from a Lauson catalog.  This LA is a bit larger at 2 HP; built as a general purpose engine I suspect.

Pete: Grandmother had a gas powered Maytag she kept in the spring kitchen back on then farm.  She said she always got "Pop" to start it for her though!
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 18, 2018, 08:42:48 PM
I got back from the Cabin Fever Modelers Expo and another cold winter week afforded me some time to continue the design on this new model.  The design seems to be coming along pretty well.

I had a warm day or two to experiment in cutting the helical gears I’ll need for the construction of this model.  The results weren’t exactly ready for usage but I’m hoping I can make a few changes in the procedure and end up with serviceable gears to drive the camshaft as well as operate the petal start.

A view from the top-rear of the block.  The governor cover and PTO bearing cover are yet to be designed/drawn.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f49oyro5Gi8cKZ598t055D8d4MqxuWC9zv2UToqkZV8z0wqy8HoEHHzthQ4D54wAro2fl00PeSzKruzxNNAsGUOMvVGE4NTxRDbqTd2sDaHxsETS4MbjwwmZkpYI4xncIfysgrw4gw=w2400)


A view looking into the bottom of the block.  A base needs to be designed and drawn yet but you can see the camshaft with cams and drive gear in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FvcflaJQsSD2E-TE0fp6xV_3IZTE6OJkYxHcep-c3wD8EqEkWH55nAR0UbQSp2770FIVGGnXxk1Cf9Qepgo4WXS9Jc-0ocnD0ePdluWjy9kvAOXNGbOpsnB1HRk3cXf-xU5nvOgmLA=w2400)
 

Same view as above, looking in through the PTO bearing opening.  The full size uses tapered roller bearings but I'm opting to just use ball bearings for the crankshaft as I have in my other Lauson models.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IRz2pPLuYyeOdD71hVRArbNQGcI9E5_o71xxHzRKhLCEU0KpGdiuwJgS3zmB2_t9dLx7O_MfvhlAL-4994DBrZfoY6aFSGGc3Kaa3C5kJjHhh6bF9bj7lWmyyriJkgMqPlNqCnK26g=w2400)


One more view from the front of the engine block
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XfZjke1eBHdopEWOQZ_hv6IZ9VG8MWiNLSG0E0zfG6R34_jlqjj_XmGNNcEFcYDGf-KvOU4E2g8T1-xbLT8o2fPf8cMQ_Xrw6BlwmH4ggMsIMbjHsUYawbdJcPJ2cBe4cx4orMdzEw=w2400)

I have many drawings to complete yet, but the design seems to be coming along nicely.  This engine should be a fun project to build.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on January 19, 2018, 12:10:55 AM
Good progress Craig,

Are you planning to silver solder the block components together? It will be fun to watch this one come together.

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 19, 2018, 12:22:09 AM
Thanks Dave.  The first post identifies the block parts that need assembled to make a complete block.  I used JB Weld on the VR ( previous model) with great success.  I'm thinking of JB Weld again with this model, along with strategically placed strews and set screws to assist the glue.  Silver solder is not an option since the block will be mostly aluminum.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on January 19, 2018, 01:05:08 PM
HI Craig,
If I might ask how are you making the helical gears? I have a video posted on YouTube from when I made my helicals and they seem to work fine.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 19, 2018, 02:10:33 PM
I just KNEW somebody was going to ask that.  I searched youtube and I believe I’ve found the video you mention.  If it is, you’re using a jig you build from a drawing by “Chuck Fellows”.  I’d be interested in more information on this jig.  Would you tell me where I might find the drawings?

I have experience cutting spur gears with my Bridgeport, dividing head, and involute gear cutters, no experience with helical gears.  Both helical gears I’m trying to cut will have teeth at a 45 degree angle.  I’m looking at gears with a diametrical pitch of 24, one with 13 teeth and the other with 26.  Both gears will be ¼ inch in thickness.  The traditional way of doing this is to lash your dividing head to the X mill table travel, so the gear blank is rotated as X axis table travel passes it through the cutter.  Unfortunately, my dividing head has no such ability. 

Since the gears I’ll be cutting have a tooth profile that is more “spur” in character than “worm” (due to the thinness of the gear), I’m thinking (?) that I can approximate the above method as follows:

Place my rotary milling head on the Bridgeport spindle and rotate the mill head until its spindle is parallel to the table.  Place the gear blank in my dividing head and place the dividing head at a 45 degree angle on the mill table.  Use the rotary milling head to cut an arc around the gear blank, forming a helical gear tooth as I would normally use the Bridgeport Y axis to form a spur gear tooth.  Theoretically, this arc, cut around the gear blank by the rotary milling head, should be elliptical in nature but for the relatively short arc I’m using, I’m hoping the circular path the rotary milling head will follow will suffice.  Initial trials appear to be promising.

I’ve posted a picture of the first attempt.  I believe I had the gear blank a bit off-center as the gear teeth aren’t quite symmetrical; the cutter may have also been set a bit too deep.  Additional attempts are being held-up by the inclement weather and an un-heated shop.  I’m curious to get both gears cut and build a fixture to hold them so I can assess how well this technique will (or won’t) work.

I was planning on posting all this if it worked out, still will if it does.  It would be nice to have a “plan-B” and the jig-fixture you describe might be the solution. 
I can buy the gears I need at 15 and 30 teeth, but I’d need to change my drawings.  What fun is that? I’d rather cut my own gears.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on January 19, 2018, 08:35:30 PM
Here's the link to the entire thread.
gbritnell
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=10080&highlight=Helical+gear+cutting
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 19, 2018, 10:14:00 PM
Thanks, I'll take a look.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 29, 2018, 07:20:34 PM
As I stated in a previous post; without helical gears this project is going nowhere.

I’ve been quiet on this thread for a while, but I have been busy: studying helical gear mechanics.  Taking the suggestion provided in the above post by “gbritnell” (thanks ever so much!) I’ve been watching a few Youtube videos provided by the member above and by a Mr. Chuck Fellows, building and testing the helix gear cutting fixture as described in the above thread’s link, and making a few gears.  Things haven’t gone silky smooth; mostly due to a 3rd grade arithmetic problem I kept overlooking   :facepalm2:  but at this point I believe I have a handle on cutting helical gears, at least well enough to proceed with this project.

What I show you is my “proof of concept”; it proves to me that I have all the theory and math right, and that my helical gear cutting fixture can be depended upon to cut accurate gears.  These “proof of concept” gears were fabricated with aluminum; no use wearing out expensive gear cutters on gears you don’t plan on putting into service, though I did cut one steel gear- just to see how this fixture works with a tougher material.

Based upon what I’ve learned I’ve decided to change the Diametral Pitch I’ll be using on the gears that mate the crankshaft to the cam shaft, as well as the helix angles of these two gears.  I used involute gear cutters I had on hand for this “proof of concept” but I will need to purchase two involute cutters with a larger Diametral Pitch.  If my math is right I can use a Diametral Pitch of 32; with the crankshaft gear having 12 teeth and a helix angle of 60 degrees while the camshaft gear would have 24 teeth and helix angle of 30 degrees.   This should provide a spacing of .808 inches between the two shafts, close to a scale distance.

I’ve provided three pictures:  Two of my gear cutting fixture, adapted from Chuck Fellows drawings; the third is my “proof of concept” with the two gears I fabricated mounted in a holding jig to verify their correct mating.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 31, 2018, 02:05:27 AM
Another cold day and another opportunity to stay inside and work on this engine design.  I made the few changes to the block I needed to make in order to accommodate the correctly sized helical gears on the crankshaft and camshaft and then I re-drew both gears.  As you can see I’ve added the crankshaft with the gear that drives the camshaft to the block assembly

This is my first attempt at using this 3-D CAD software, though I’m still relying on my old drafting software to keep some of the numbers straight.   It has its unique difficulties (possibly due to my learning as I go) but all in all it is really turning out to be a great design tool and I can see the engine going together as I design the individual parts, combine them into sub-assemblies, and then into the final assembly.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on January 31, 2018, 12:03:25 PM
Like most advanced tools - 3D software has a steep learning curve - but as you're discovering, it has a great potential for helping you avoiding big and small errors, when designing something new.

I'm still only using a small part of the options in my software tools, after a few years of using them.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on January 31, 2018, 04:32:14 PM
Yes Admiral, I’m completely with you.  I’ve had my share of confusion with this software, where I think it ought to do something one way and it does it another; but the BIG advantage I’m seeing at this venture is the way I can “assemble” the engine and rotate the internal parts, checking for interference.  This is something I haven’t been able do in the past and it’s gotten me into a few scrapes that, fortunately, I’ve been able to circumvent

Here I’ve colored the parts and added some transparency (since I just looked into that and things WERE starting to get a bit confusing with everything the same color).  In the 3-D you can rotate the crankshaft and observe all the movement inside the crankcase, pretty cool.  Since my gears aren’t really “gears” the camshaft isn’t rotating with the crankshaft but I can rotate it separately if I choose.

With this set of drawings I have the cast iron sleeve installed (the block will be aluminum) with the crankshaft, the connecting rod journal bearing, the piston, the wrist pin, and the connecting rod; a few thrust washers also.
I still have a lot of design work to do; the governor, base, carburetor, and many other parts; I’m really looking toward designing the kick start: ought to be pretty interesting- still the design seems to be coming along nicely.  Thanks to all of you who are following this design. 

I’m sure I’ll be building this engine at this point- probably start this summer.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on January 31, 2018, 07:29:55 PM
An interesting build  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1: I have yet to move to 3D modelling as well as CNC  :headscratch:  :old: I'm sure that Chuck (Fellows) is watching this in the background.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 01, 2018, 08:09:59 PM
Thanks for the responses, nice to know some people is reading this tirade  ::)

Today was spent designing the governor cap and flyweight governor assembly.  The folks at Lauson, back in the early 1930’s, must have had time on their hands to design and then fabricate a pattern for this complicated  governor cap casting.  I’ve supplied a picture of it so you can see that to which I’m referring. 
   
Since I’m machining the parts to this engine, this was another situation where I needed to make compromises between what the part actually looks like and what I’m capable of producing.  Since the cap is hidden partially under a sheet metal cover, I’m not terribly worried about scale appearance; still I’d like it to at least vaguely resemble its counterpart.

The cover I’ve designed is difficult to see in the CAD views I provide, I was more interested in seeing how the flyweights and actuator lever all fit together.  It took some adjusting and re-fitting but everything seems work-able at this point and it's easier to make corrections on the computer than re-make parts.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 09, 2018, 12:56:46 PM
Work has continued on the design of this model. With this post I’ve included the base and oil pump as well as the kick start mechanism. 

I have a lot of work remaining:  the valves, valve seats, and springs; the muffler; intake manifold, carburetor, and gas tank and mounts.  Also remaining are the magneto, flywheel, blower housing and sheet metal that covers most of everything up. :???:

You might note from the drawings that the oil pump merely lifts the oil from the oil sump to a dipper trough where splash lubrication does the “real” lubrication of the engine block internals.  This was pretty standard with Lauson until they built their  “3rd generation engines” with forced lubrication; a technique that Tecumseh continued to use in their designs after they purchased the company.

The Kickstart mechanism is fairly interesting.  Depressing the kick petal causes an intermediary helical/spur gear combination to slide over on its stub shaft where the spur gear portion of this gear combination engages with another spur gear on the crankshaft to rotate the engine.  When the engine starts, this intermediary gear combination is pushed back across its stub shaft, thus disengaging it from the crankshaft gear.  An Idler gear on a spring holds this intermediary gear combination in place so it won’t engage with the crankshaft gear again until needed.

I’m noticing that the final assembly drawings are getting quite busy and I’m beginning to wonder the usefulness of them; it takes a while to assemble everything with the software.  As I stated previously, this is the first go-round with this 3-D software so I’m still learning.  I’m using “Cubify Design” if you’re wondering. 

This design is well enough along that I could begin construction I suspect; but I have another model I’m trying to finish (If it ever gets warm enough to venture out to my unheated shop).  I’m looking at this project as starting sometime in the Spring.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on February 09, 2018, 06:14:14 PM
Craig,
I wanted to let you know that I'm following along. This is an interesting engine to build. I have a B&S from I think 1936-37 it is a model WMI with the deep sump and pressurized oil system.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on February 09, 2018, 11:56:27 PM
Craig--I'm following. 3D cad is quite wonderful, and can do the most amazing things--but the learning curve is very steep. I use Solidworks which I started with in 1999 or 2000 (can't remember for sure). Your build looks interesting--Don't worry too much about how many people are following but don't actually post anything. You will get a lot more people showing up and commenting when you start making parts in metal.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 15, 2018, 01:12:29 AM
I continue to make steady progress on the design of this model.  I’ve completed the design of the carburetor and intake manifold.  The carburetor was fairly easy since it is another Tillotson MS74 type carburetor.  I designed one very similar when I built the Lauson TLC model a few years ago.  All I really needed to do was to pull out the old drawings and make some changes, since this carburetor is, essentially, a mirror image of the one I built for the TLC. Of course, I wanted to update the drawings with this new software too.

I’ve included an exploded view and several assembled views of this float carburetor.  In this first exploded view, the intake manifold is positioned away from the viewer.  You get a good view of the needle seat, gland, cap, and main needle to the bottom right.  Both the throttle (sliding in from the left) and the choke (assembling from the top) are barrels rather than butterfly valves.  This has worked well for me with my previous models.  I’ve included all the parts in these views with the exception of the setscrews that terminate the carburetor passages and the fuel shutoff needle itself that sits above the float and pressure plate and slides into the orange valve seat.  The first picture is this exploded view.

The second picture is an assembled view of the carburetor, looking from the front flange that attaches to the intake manifold.  You’re looking down the throat of the carburetor.

With the third picture I give you a view from the rear of the carburetor, showing the assembled choke barrel and attachment flange for an air cleaner.

I thought I’d try a different approach on the intake manifold which too, is similar than the one I constructed for the TLC.  With this go-round, I’m thinking of machining the manifold ends in two parts and threading them together.  Don’t know how well this will work or not but I’m hoping I’ll get closer to a realistic shape without all the filler work I did on the TLC. 

With the fourth and fifth pictures you see exploded views of the intake manifold, the extreme ends will be threaded and then affixed in place with Locktite once I get the angles right.

Lastly, is a view of the assembly so far.  My software creates animated PDFs that you can grab and spin around.  I was thinking it might be fun to provide one of these for y’all to play with.  I spent a little time trying to publish one of these but the PDF file is quite large, weighing in at a little over 4 Meg; too large for this model engine maker website to accept.  I was going to serve it from my own web server, but browsers deem these animated PDFs a security risk and to view one you’d have to override a bunch of security questions that, to be quite frank, I’d be hesitant to do myself from an unknown source.  I ended up just giving you another static JPG image.

On another note, the time has come to start thinking about the magneto.  I’m fairly certain I could construct an operational one but if I can’t find appropriate sized coils I’d need to wind them myself.  I have a friend who wound one, but he’s making noises that indicate I want to think long and hard before I commit to it.  I suspect I can go ahead and design an operational magneto, and if the coils don’t workout I can just use the points and fall back to battery/coil ignition as I’ve used on my other Lauson models.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 16, 2018, 04:21:25 PM
I finished the design of the magneto today.  This is a replica of a Wico FG Flywheel magneto.  These magnetos bear some explanation so here goes:

The frame of the magneto is what loosely can be seen as two opposing letter “E”s with the center post of the “E” passing through coils (green in the diagram) and the bottom and top posts touching bar magnets.  These bar magnets (the black objects you see nearly hiding at the center top and center bottom) will be rare earth magnets in the model.  They setup a permanent magnet field, causing the left “E” to be magnetized as “north” while the right “E” is magnetized as “south”.

A center rotor, driven by a pin on the flywheel, spins in the center and the shape of the rotor causes the magnetic field passing through the coils to build and collapse as the rotor spins.  The two coils have their primary windings connected in series with the points.  The secondary high voltage windings are also connected in series.  A set of points will open, just as the magnetic field collapses, thus causing a high voltage to be produced in the secondary winding of the coils.  A condenser is connected across the points, not shown in the diagram.

I don’t see why this replica shouldn’t function as the original, assuming I can find (or wind) suitable coils.  The coils need to be no larger than 1 ¼ inch diameter and 5/8th inch tall.  They need to have (preferably a square) open center of approximately 1/2 inch. They need to have both their primary and secondary winding isolated from ground; so if anyone “out here” can give me a lead on where to procure two ignition coils such as this, I’d appreciate it.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on February 16, 2018, 05:13:26 PM
Craig,
Before I even started building my Upshur vertical single I bought the spark plug, coil and piston rings. I never used the coil since I used S/S CDI ignition with automotive points. Unfortunately I can't find the coil to give a dimension and an online search doesn't turn them up. As an after thought you might contact Roy at S/S he uses small coils in his CDI ignitions and that might work in your application. http://www.cncengines.com/ (http://www.cncengines.com/)
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on February 16, 2018, 08:58:00 PM
A very interesting ignition system - never seen anything like it.

If you decide to wind the coils yourself, you should be aware of insulation issues or more correctly how to wind them so they will continue to work. I'm not sure if it's important witch coil to wind first in this kind of system - but I do know that you will have to use a few layers of high voltage insulating tape between the primary and the secondary and a layer for every 100 volts of secondary ...!!
If you don't do this you will get arcing inside the coils and a burned ignition system  :zap:
Oh - and I forgot that you should use a few layers of tape on the coil-former before adding wire - unless the coil-former is made from a good electrical insulator material.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on February 17, 2018, 07:47:26 AM
I believe that there is a book, possibly by Edgar Westbury, on making magnetos.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on February 17, 2018, 10:58:11 AM
There is one by Bob Shores:

http://www.model-engine-ignition.com/home/coils/ignition-coils-book

And another by ETW

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ignition-Equipment-by-E-T-Westbury-/222011778240
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 20, 2018, 08:28:34 PM
Thanks for the tips on winding coils.  I’m going to follow up on these and see where they lead me.  I’ve always been an advocate of the “divide-and-conquer” philosophy, so I will probably choose to start with battery and coil ignition, and once I get the engine running, look into making a magneto.

I finished the design of the engine today.  I give you four views, and immediately apologize for the lack of clarity.  The 3-D views are so busy at this point that even I have difficult making out what is what so I can only imagine how difficult it is for you who aren’t as imminently familiar with the design as I am.

In this laller design period I’ve found these 3-D views to be extraordinarily useful for tasks such as fitting the sheet metal cover, where the CAD tool allowed me to make measurements across several different assemblies and design a cover that would fit.  I would normally do this on the model itself.

We might think all the CAD work is complete at this point, but actually it now it moves on to a new phase- that being getting actual drawings from the tool with which the parts can be fabricated.  I have very limited experience with using this part of the tool, this being my first design with this software.  It’s going to be yet another learning experience.  Fortunately there are plenty of chilly days remaining in this winter where I’ll have time to explore this portion of the software. 

I’m getting really enthused about beginning the actual build so I’m hoping I can have some drawings ready when the weather breaks.       
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 22, 2018, 09:53:14 PM
Since my last post I’ve been getting my CAD program to produce some working drawings.  Actually it proved to be pretty easy; the software seems to be imminently flexible.  I can produce an “easy” drawing from the 3-D part in less than a minute.  I was thinking of continuing with this today, but the day dawned warm and clear here in North Carolina; with the temperature attaining 70 degrees by midday.  This was too nice of a day to spend cooped up inside and another session with the computer.   

As the farmers say, “make hay while the sun shines” so I got to thinking that I just might have a block of aluminum in inventory large enough to use for the block and after looking I found just the piece; a remnant from a larger piece I obtained from a scrap yard some time ago.  Along with the aluminum I scored some cast iron I can use for the cylinder sleeve and valve guides (I guess it pays to order more than you immediately need after all)

Armed with this material I STARTED THE BUILD  :cartwheel: by grossly sizing the block.
 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nyCYeG19joaDajgkHtZ9_hnaHLTS_85GiyLLelKHlEcctKrbEwGWJS8FQOevpHjcy5o_1SPPn4WsTQIuaMqWws5tDQe_f5wcqQI0GKiGIqR-V6BlfS92u7aV6jzWDfp4PfCC9aas_w=w2400)

There are few of these faces that will remain with the completed model, but as you know, I need to get this thing "square" and establish points of reference from which I can take measurements down the road.

I believe I remember reading someone in another thread stating that the problem with building from bar stock is that a lot of effort is spent on cosmetic issues, not functional, mechanical ones.  As I made mountains of swarf today in sizing this block of aluminum I’ll agree with that statement.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on February 22, 2018, 10:20:27 PM
Great - I'm certainly looking forward to the journey ahead  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 23, 2018, 11:16:39 PM
We had another warm, beautiful day here in North Carolina, and though I had some errands to run in the morning, I managed to squeeze in some shop time in the afternoon.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hpVufgF61FZYdDLIYa3HS_DqmeHt-fYyF3A_9GFuIILNGLIz_EiD4a80X06G4C0Od8--f5MKOT00t-gbMaUhO3jork9iATRTgsKKSzkfTvraah9NNkKQ6m0qe1ndCHHZpfiStohBlA=w2400)
This is the fourth of these little single cylinder Lauson engines I’ve built, and I’ve learned that it’s wise to press in the cylinder liner and valve guides before too much stock is removed from the bottom of the crankcase.   That being said, I decided to get these tasks over with first hand.  Here I’ve already drilled out a starting hole and now I’m boring the “to be” block for receiving the cylinder liner. 

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/akp7bV8Tl_PM21p8lIpJhsrMUaBkmw24MLNv4L-pH1oWHCtMVFGmjAPQnxennS_LfdNScRCKPkTd-PpTkfuNhUzKhj92IFf98-PSfxhKE1_ULdNXXTXDj75L_oq2KdQxnLFMAMDh0Q=w2400)
The “to be” block with bored hole, ready to receive the liner.  I’ve made it a habit to label everything in an attempt to cut down on the confusion and eliminate stupid errors.  In my last build I bought a piece of aluminum, sized it appropriately, and then proceeded to drill mounting holes at right angles to where they should have been. :wallbang:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0cVKL5GYjvJVyVY-C9DPZx_6NkE9SyGXpCVPmUu-hs899yhNaWojrCWPJbXm5UyOMSNF4uOZSSN-3vAf-sJoHhy09PN1i-qrRR1FEeqs5QxIfT0fMCmj2IEH4UjMkTRk1Sj0O9RBMg=w2400)
Somebody gave me these cast iron cored castings a while back.  This one is perfectly sized for use as the cylinder liner for this engine.  Here I’m making a facing cut to square the end of the piece.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w-Qu6ngQnG7JL1zqxjBR5w-aQmpuNVavJIafZoYFtnfF_J1jRT8BPGE-0_uqdXumY_dYzSyt-cJw6FPKbN67lIneBPSSyZKSSirjB2WYBI-p8dMkr_edKKUr3HxqJPqXw9gg5LP1ng=w2400)
The procedure I use for these cylinder liners is to get the outside diameter to a .001 inch press fit to the block.  I’m not too worried about the inside diameter at this point.  After pressing the sleeve into the block I’ll make a few boring passes to accurately size the ID.   Here I’m just getting the OD to around .050 inch oversize.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QU2BLFOutWOFqk5SVwae1r9kRkSoTppYwGI2ZWK0PoGpdfhpujeOm1gP9XYdhjly58MlpXDY4XDHpC0K45Brug68pXUY4ldE8kIwupuDQjevNeZKYBAmu9dwY9FaZiDWgpgCfHMsmg=w2400)
Now I’m going to bore out the inside diameter to around .050 of an inch under the finished dimension. 

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YyIMIwC0T7Z6DkuMZqFH-NTb7qYP8OGnNMRQBqOJ9FFSEgMxlm146eX0tmFr9FRYMrx-jH0jN0TkkAty1ZHjZyWaUZszcmBtHaeexAI6w0FDT_JEU2NzGKa0Il00TLDiUCnHEtDuZA=w2400)
Inside boring operation complete

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NQm7s8j2tBFJuvWu3kfPeEOLv84BJjhgALdRAabEku2PjmAEDoT0Vzk_5vP9BraM16Kb2dO4moW540fIyeSdqYF2s2AL_7DzI0E8fxSCrsiqCvbXWEbWlGqUngj0DXPDR-v7fwSVWg=w2400)
With the inside diameter appropriately sized I’m going back and finish the outside diameter.  I’m doing all this to try to minimize any out-of-round conditions that might result from internal stresses in the material.  Probably over kill.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wtC7bZR29KOQEK5NXVoT9XuQ-LkloPFRgCCatz705bIPD7lx3jvBb_U6y_p6d1NBiAYDtHcO-MMsyw3DEjHcDk7jaIg7p18qaL9d0JhSLIQiKGP1okLNc2BX60zWvkR106yyIgcqeQ=w2400)
With the sleeve finished to its outside diameter of .001 inch over the hole I bored in the block I’m parting it off the base stock.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TJZREOizVT-eRIj4nGHHi6Ywbv9KxIPaCQ_VWkecsUcuaum6VOLJkWKfflV7d7uRYEcveE2T_kwtzCF9ne659RzjT58JmGrQIMe3gS3O8Ike_T2pksF-T8TVpxP4ow554SrQ6ghalQ=w2400)
Here is the cylinder sleeve, ready to be pressed into the block.  I would have gone ahead and done this today but it was getting late and this is not something you want to hurry.  I’ll have lots of time tomorrow (or the next day?) to do this right and unhurried.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 24, 2018, 09:58:18 PM
Work continued today.

It occurred to me, after making my post yesterday, that this audience (at modelenginemaker.com) is somewhat more mature (in metal working processes at least :)) that my usual audiences; so I will apologize for spamming you in my last post with needless pictures.  I’ll attempt to post only relevant ones in the future.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AMvzbPX6U5bQsbhlWdmqTsYSjB1uOby46Ee968P82f7GqfJoGaZuh8LbK2tygNMeD0N9Efuuv7WwMZdro1AMv5M57XDnf5clnhligIIk5HmD66JQ2rrjOoBp0cwvKRHrcDNuUoAwjA=w2400)
Today I pressed the cylinder liner into the block.  A little assembly lube made sure there would be no galling.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WTqDrtqr5FSsUm33uNit6A2rOpaqwWEpMwPzRTF2BGhY-W-9XI6Ipg_G7vAGnYpwUNwMef2_Ae4mVRi-5ztn1_H4kgtf1o3DzCVLgmbEqQ8MiWIL4MEEk2nyQ_FlD6NGFD7_uW-aQ=w2400)
This engine will have valve lifters, the first one of these little guys I’ve built that will have them.  I thought I’d go ahead and mill out the valve chamber now (where the valve springs will be inserted) so I could see if there might be any problems, and also to shorten the length of aluminum I needed to drill through for the valve guides and lifter guides, hopefully minimizing the drill tip wandering.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Al5V_FCu9aiDRpqeDxJevsw3VSeNnluSBj_pb3UPMEG_QP3jRL3Wr0ciWKUzLUPg_WecgCAyVKScHLYe8_Wo_sTT6ZTmt_hD0I_m-owFa3i7dAwQIjXmJL0hqFUgEONLrdSuhSRtCg=w2400)
Here I’ve drilled and reamed the valve guide passages and am boring the chambers for the valve seats.


 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FEL_A7F8ZBxDffxhusj3JQNf7XaR04htTfjPa0WdX4tqYM7xmoIWJH2doNmIEWDwTmgzZNwaCERE-dkzJj_V-hPPPdaz4aXGGf1yjbRxtJIIv3JMVxI8fJsXgM8jMQpM8psyqepvug=w2400)
Progress so far.  Next I’ll fabricate the cast iron valve seats and guides.

Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on February 24, 2018, 11:37:04 PM
Looks like your off to a good start.


Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on February 26, 2018, 01:09:18 PM
It occurred to me, after making my post yesterday, that this audience (at modelenginemaker.com) is somewhat more mature (in metal working processes at least :)) that my usual audiences; so I will apologize for spamming you in my last post with needless pictures.  I’ll attempt to post only relevant ones in the future.

There are also plenty of beginners out there who appreciate the details of how to set things up, who much overhang you can get away with etc. If you think it is interesting post it.

Looks like you are well under with this one  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on February 26, 2018, 03:03:19 PM
Lots of great progress Craig. I see a lot of similarities to the 1950 B&S 6s, especially in the valve spring area you are working on now. Following along with interest and nice to see the first chips flying onthe Lauson. On the liner press fit, did you heat the aluminum block at all or just "press?"

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 26, 2018, 10:36:44 PM
Hi Bill.  Can’t believe we live so close and haven’t crossed paths.  We need to organize meeting at a show sometime this summer!

No, I didn’t heat the aluminum.  With a .001 press fit at this size there’s enough movement for things to slip together.  Assembly lube really helps.  This is a pretty easy press, not much pressure required; NOTHING   like the press fit when I pressed the drivers onto my locomotive; there were one or two I wasn’t sure were going to go… but they did.

BTW- did I see your Briggs at cabin fever a few years ago?  One was there and it was GORGEOUS !
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 26, 2018, 10:37:39 PM
Today I finished the fabrication of the valve seats and guides.  I make these as one part and then press them into the block.  Here is a view of them just prior to insertion into the block.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U8ZEIl97kDcW0Uah-I4OGttA3Nhm511ZB-jQoNp7dKyq99u2_U3JuOxBhtBMmR6obuFkK6TzbT-CK5jwxD4yclJG4fvBdkh4NhV0-hmZyZJ6b9a_veTVulfnHUqwl7pTdfOPeakR3Q=w2400)


I use my hand press for the pressing operation.  Here I’ve finished pressing one valve guide/seat into the block and I’m about to press the remaining one.  You might notice I’ve fabricated a tool to assist with the pressing operation.  This allows me to place equal pressure on the lip of the valve seat and on the top of the valve guide.  I don’t want to fracture one of these pieces while inserting it into the block. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MEks1dKjK-_HAVWdxqMkfL1F9zwUcuw5U7aByQ7wgyoPC9CUXBKR82hIsK-XCJ-3C29Y2WiiWc9ssXsK9ANE1eQ0PM9cIWfYQalxsiFGhqOMr-ort4PiC7SxWIsQX3ug6Odz_reJBg=w2400)



The block with the valve seats and guides inserted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrEvD-RLV03VfSUFIFXgx9cvThXpD9pu8gTQTG1hLMCV1FwTDfvhLQnHSfWWFtDVAV8hwuEq7Nn9lPG3WZUn6Cvz4zTxg7_HHTlyoujTGU3c2Fy_T2hnZvXxUBsWW5AZDXDvRqyEOg=w2400)
 

There were a lot of choices on how to proceed next.  I choose to continue with the upper head porting.  Here I’ve just drilled the exhaust passageway from the outside of the block into the valve chamber.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HNYOWpFkBO8Z_E_ZIaE0sWnjpZOtyI5UswGESctJn8xZ8xDctlbq8btTzNereJQ-KtqRIJDAXkK8h__GY46R_2t9pXVrTgehu6-FdIOdnIFGdd9qwSRvtJ9UNmc1JyeMb8aSVW6CpA=w2400)


Next I moved on to the intake passage.  Here I needed to fabricate the intake manifold flange.  To form the flange I’m going to use my Volstro rotary milling head.  This is a VERY versatile addition to my Bridgeport mill; without it I don’t believe I could have built any of my models.  This tool allows me to mill arcs around the center of the Bridgeport spindle.  Its use is like a rotary table, but I find it much more flexible.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PNX_NvHl4vmUvqSCGzUTVCIlct3lOd_OD3ZZJxtZuCfEWfUqp9yZ7_jLMoXimk2grcIsa406M0fokfR9wdHleR4M4Jp2m1XSRUWBpK2lXC7eM-2lfbh4PKmC_rw7FG5ggUNH6D-bAg=w2400)


In fabricating this flange using the rotary milling head I needed to know the angles where the curves transition to tangents.  Fortunately. I can get that information from the CAD drawings as shown.  For the end radii of this flange I need to mill 68 degrees from both sides of the centerline.  For the center radii I need to mill 22 degrees from the perpendicular.  Both these measurements can be directly measured off the rotary milling head.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qjmpX_cxGfPOz7vVDQ-ScoSunYa-cJhzeNVpnQi5z4lsOuht2TSzytU6DHm_ZbWDkHEzAE30_VOLX-OSspQRWeaPtYYOUG_7dzjxuoL92GwoX-I0Ugkkz-GIOe88TXnM0cL6dz8q_Q=w2400)


Here I’m milling the center radii
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W14QM1s48fZcAGWncMLCkjxk5OLBeCq4scbxfIf0xnFUu6Gd3wxg0KxJpGphA_QG_F2o5i8J3w_DRU3Baum6IRWF6moEi9p08XW3NO-luTLo3ry-k2YaOT4Op-x8y3eruiPImxwIWw=w2400)


And Here I’ve just finished the end radii
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/orOIDSKD24lJSzLUdgcUhS_gyjdgdWG-yaDQLzKUuIOB7yZ-5ZGuIeUW5Iq4qVgou6ZOjhJgnpM6eiQg0fjxXYWhIf3Y8sEYtSbnaSkICtW79caLnk8bYQYutw8VWgk6PlGqy77XSQ=w2400)


Finally, two views of the progress so far.  It’s starting to look less and less like some non-descript chunk of aluminum and more like… well something.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z23yiZNGBs3xzcV2-vCOAe9iQ_szLTbGvOr5kRI1C5Vxx-KSdkuhRMKo72CQ3QLPL0oDlBOvmd_P_LD-XvuQtnPASNHomJcXooVaFiATBUHwf9XqiY1JUvv6Sk0VWBetCVXsf_-koQ=w2400)
 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X4OsW-LZRW8A8F60hVA4SmOdSI1bpgSyslb5ZhmS3GmQABC-nDFPRqYEHu06MsMI1Y1wP5n9lXXW9ShsaxwRMIcBAtc1iqD_D1yXVYrAgxIDEW56pmBlBaMqNMHSqWljrShfaqDhFQ=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on February 27, 2018, 12:16:41 AM
You are moving right along Craig. Lovely work too!! You are in the Raleigh area right? My youngest daughter is there and I get up there occasionally to see the grandsons. Hopefully more often once I retire. What shows do you normally attend?

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on February 27, 2018, 12:25:36 AM
Thanks Bill.  I'll be at the Lillington show March 17th.  I think the Benson show would be next.  Don't  have a date for it yet.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on February 27, 2018, 07:13:29 AM
I've seen pictures of a Volstro rotary milling head but never seen one in use, interesting  :)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Pete49 on February 28, 2018, 02:52:32 AM
I'll be following with interest. My mother had a washing machine like that but it used a Villiers engine. Same method to start and I got to start it while on school holidays and thought I was great as an 8 year old. Might have had a reason I went to motorbikes before electric start came in on them. :Lol:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 01, 2018, 09:53:42 PM
Thanks for all your replies, I really appreciate the interest.

I’ve been working steadily these last few days, attempting to convert this chunk of aluminum into an engine block.  I’ve removed a lot of material so far, and there is a lot more yet to be done.

The first step was to bore the cylinder liner to the correct dimension.  The scale bore for this engine would be 1.25 inches.  Since I’m using a liner, I’m going with 1.125 inches.  I would have needed to over bore the block in order to use a liner large enough to bore to scale and that would have resulted in possible mechanical failure of the block.  The material gets incredibly thin in the cylinder area once the fins have been cut.  While I was at it I cut the valve seats though this isn’t shown in the photo.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bnyXyTbHPN2WNfB_rI8bIku7wOInePluLTQkmorki1jWCiyANEzWl6nf-CIid7k9BLrwe6isDFsgCyiUgd4sVnyeyEs_E-dB1y4DPktv_iriHWyJg7UqOSlgYQiwsbqZ9LkxwVE28A=w2400)


I’ve just included several photos from the work that’s been done.  There are a lot of steps involved in making a block that resembles the full size engine.  Here I’m machining the mounting boss for the PTO side bearing plate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vH2okNF9XGnun4lJ8mNeOnMqNuz1gqd_evGKIxbk__XVvVAgxr-FyU7Kc3cvPrEu0kTSVkz7rmQYNWBxxIJ1FJMBVTLXpEc_gkln7lqk4-Ba3CafQjCJSV72absa16feu5dWopPvJQ=w2400)


I’ve just finished forming the inside of the bearing plate mount and I’m also taking the opportunity to start removing some material from the crankcase.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5fYA9C0I_kHlEe6CUkKnanGduhzXicleUQIQmH9XY65l9aAEyHBlnQwYcFtCLQCudXd0KIE7OyIxvijaDSAEGcxnk-RS2okxzLQDG74DWYJuYn8E5nGJ-sOleJ9k_fgSR0bRXLdACg=w2400)


Now I’m working on the other side of the block, forming the boss for the magneto side bearing plate.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/alOxvPS9GhwqXyZFk7plvqoGozt4_8Y084CezHah5tKZHrZ1t_VR1ZNk0ILC6tVkg9E5cb-M1ZmPzuSYLXF8xeDNvFPVxXLID-ifa-QLxukMXqeOmRXV0YwakjwMYabsfFyewbwRsw=w2400)


Two pictures of the work so far.  There remains lots of metal to remove in the crankcase area and lots of detailing to do.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TtQ--fQQNvMrumGuAQIumfg5VswP36ILPahKwrIsZnnJKyvywTcRyAMimskMv-c0WjjawPkgnzQM7FjOGZNU7BnV4lOXtUOk_PfLg6qutvO7Oo1IkQ82NaDiMQK0-L5O-j_QIRK4w=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sNAMs2WR0YHLfqr690RHYwZnGI3z3KPCyDM5b2TstH22s8J7v1Dx6-aFUwkeaBCO40qrA0Zh7KlfgC4iD_4GNnMaTTm1j7yziek7rEk-qBE7mP6_e5yh6BG8AvGcnyzIvcqPFjcUjQ=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 01, 2018, 10:36:38 PM
It's taking shape Craig. Looking like a proper engine block now and nice to follow your rapid progress.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 03, 2018, 11:23:47 PM
I’ve spent the last several days clearing material out of the crankcase and forming the curved bottom of the block. 

The removal of material from the crankcase was tedious work, made more difficult by the inability to thoroughly lubricate the end mill (due to confined spaces) and we all know that aluminum need LOTS of cutting oil to prevent aluminum from adhering to the working edge of the end mill.  I have no pictures of this work; it would have been difficult to show you, indeed it was difficult for me to see what was going on.

I do have a picture of how I formed the curves on the bottom of the block.  This is a compound curved surface and the method I choose used one of the more bizarre setups I’ve had occasion to use.  The curve was formed by multiple passes, changing the arc radius, changing the center of the arc, and changing the tilt on the mill head.  I didn’t have any numbers to use to do this, this was more “art” than engineering.  I was trying to achieve a curve that “sort-of” matched the full size, realizing that some filing and belt sanding would finish the job.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tz6nVlWWYFb83jlnufUOeiGNp-2Iq5BLoAc0NC5pA_uRUhUrYW9CULWgzAJgtNJWlNpqBvbrOIPgFSfSHmDnBhB4JxqrHgqLZgd-5KHANiE5GTyI12vvZ9AAgFjZALyROnqq3rkVCQ=w2400)


Three pictures of the progress so far. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XGEE7sIjgeV8m7SWKrBiIH2wQctRhZVNhwCdkJ5JeCfpQ1jCFT7xAtAWAD2nN8czS3JHYXpEmTCMuIMZiSC8QTHrwDk04u97Ww0u3M3J7xXSeM-kiIM7PnE8dP5wZuOOUFce5zULsQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j2HyYnBGGtqAn88yCPU4LAjqASX02GxntZ5aqmZmODx4BMYom0fdFBVmwEMohzNiAd-APQD08qPYmoewiIzAFSOnXxxsl0-_ItDtmo7-6-iK7z1B7icjPm_Xssxb5G1FC0AQiuvNdQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X9py9pGoqytqRe5g85VgZoc5Oa0vZQ1ov4d3PL6Kr_CYQM_6Ii7wdqszq9vEQtmqHzcmrrUtBR_oR8hPYJBDmTC91gxJX5mdp3cvSUvc1Dsiz94VGATiQTpvk3j50JXoMQMQAdgcTw=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: 10KPete on March 04, 2018, 01:14:58 AM
I envy the heck out of you having a Volstro at home.  :P

I used one regularly 30 years ago and found it to be just about the handiest thing around!

This engine is really shaping up beautifully.

 :cheers:

Pete
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 04, 2018, 01:35:31 AM
That is some really beautiful work Craig. The detail is incredible!!

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on March 04, 2018, 03:32:03 AM
Craig,
This engine is really starting to take shape. I must admit never having heard or seen of the Velstro attachment for a mill before, but I can see how handy it is in the right hands. I also wouldn't have thought of pushing the valve seat/guide in before moving on. Experience really counts, thanks for the tip.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 05, 2018, 11:11:55 PM
Bill, Pete, Art, Admiral, Dave, and all of you following but haven’t commented; thanks for your interest. :ThumbsUp:

After two more solid days of work (sure is nice to be retired :whoohoo:- I highly recommend it for everyone) I’ve done about all I can do to this chunk of aluminum I’m calling the main block.  Yes, there are a few tool marks here and there that I’d prefer weren’t present :(, but no major errors :cartwheel: and it’s about as good a job as I can expect myself to accomplish.  I’m quite pleased with it. :cheers:

I didn’t take other than one picture, that of cutting the fins.  Once again the rotary milling head made this task pretty straightforward.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9m1SilFVDANCt-_Q8An86e9q4dFj1a8ZQhzC_94MQht6D-RdIkwi-OALWuOO3IqtePLq-vRRi7s2OzdmDFtcDKCqB0JUltGwzFkNIpj6pz7BfGj9R6U6kJtzTkE3D97P_rLWf08VDQ=w2400)

The remainder of the work consisted of milling the receiver for the breather assembly and then boring the 1 ½ inch hole to receive the cam cylinder.  Boring this huge void through so much completed work was nerve wracking to say the least.  Had I not done the 3-D modeling of this part, so that I was assured of what was going to be removed and what would stay I’m not sure this would have been successful.

Of course, while removing the part from the milling vice I cut my thumb on one of the sharp edges before I had a chance to file them all down :cussing: and that reminded me of a story I’ll share with you.

Years ago I had just completed my first machining venture- can’t even remember what it was.  I took it over and showed it to Larry DuFour (who was my main mentor, an aside here: Larry is a VERY talented model maker :NotWorthy:, don’t let the caliber of my work influence your opinion of Larry; after all, the teacher can only do SO much :facepalm2:).  Larry rolled it around in his hands, handed it back to me and said, “It’s not done yet”.  When I asked him what he meant he wouldn’t say.  I took it back home and yes, a few of the measurements were off my several thousandths.  “How could he tell?” I asked myself?  I worked on it some more, took it back and handed it to him.  Larry, again rolled it around in his hands, handed it back to me again and repeated “It’s not done yet”. 

Anyway, finally he informed me that a piece isn’t complete until all the sharp edges have been filed off, a lesson I remember and a mistake I haven’t repeated.

So, after taking a file to all the edges and reducing the lethality of this part, I’m calling it done, at least for now.

This is probably the most complicated thing I’ve hacked out of aluminum to-date, I guess we always need to push ourselves.  As you look at these photos I’ll remind you that several other parts are added to this piece to form the original block.  It was beyond my talents to fabricate the final block as one part.  I had printed a few 3-D views I kept for reference as I worked on this piece and this helped me to visually see what I was attempting to achieve.

Here is a view from the back of the block.  You can clearly see the intake manifold.  The cut-out on the left rear is the receiver for the crankcase breather.  The cylindrical hole through the right side receives a cylinder that forms a receiver for the camshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/syR8cpSx3JT8WstEYeFOU7xYTynqvlvhnO1GEcQhvj2z12E0reaHgvaE5rBtjS0DRJYVE02n-NCmWPdyfAPn5twDOf04G62KMydtVaTknEVdNvZ87uVVSh9SaYgXSBmQNiMyS-gP8Q=w2400)


Here is a view of the power take off side with the round bearing cover receiver.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lJLYv4g328_1Ayd-1KDtpWtRKH6rr70GqsitVCs1HzVwTmarK0OdPC7WBT0aTObANt08ZOmgqqZu-9h4_rCLnG3mRC_IiqyHz6frpvlFnzGnSfEKHcd-Qlol_B5ipV0_VCh8UePAgA=w2400)


A view of the front of the block.  At some time I’ll need to revisit this area to mill out the mount points for the kick start assembly.  I’m going to let that go for now.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KjRrjUDuMf44jdbLqcNM5oRiPtuKQ7YdWixo3_-VBLdKRIkEZMGZg5yEV1B_XCRoqGKUmsdr3L-NUhCXUGjErGFtolN7635OVxXAG2PQr9kYGZX_bvNnkFvLTN5-0eGXNQzYlQ5w-Q=w2400)


The magneto side of the block with the valve spring cavity.  The hole in the front of the block receives a protrusion in the front of the cam cylinder, use to adjust the cam shaft as it rides on the cam mandrel.  This will become more obvious in the months? To come.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6te1jjH4Jg_YPt1II8J5UuYvzmZcy7EUWxpiQB1Yztz7dWLOANzXe0HB3RUzawkN-9eAeZS15BeEuxI6mLvdhzrklTgM_mBzhFT9kw3pBGRE7gP_iQmuLnS1V-DzkTqamSt5-r46aQ=w2400)


Finally a view straight on from the rear and front of the main block.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jbgH-GOrj9ERgpLEYtlnmKEPVGFiLvIwtWvC9tUT8GEeO-4m_IMvyanMWQfj3HAhjpnlcZDyJyavI9ZdrdamSFbLJAsXtcUybJyeFsqqKdHe-wFaYw-Tt5vXT8Gh0PwHs9zZ7h2zqQ=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IcIXcDZgZjU6nCzMnGIWMf7AWlf2lLfjDUn0LzlrFurKN0XvXkdUUh1Xhen66OAaUnpfShT7Ulpz5WKvhM3bl7x7kQMA8Cnkf7U1_VjQopbkYyKSAJxNj5hS8rKRtoD5dAYybOSisA=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 06, 2018, 12:58:48 AM
Craig, are you still in touch with Larry? We had some communications a few years back. His dad was quite an engine enthusiast ad well .

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 06, 2018, 01:20:17 AM
Bill

His son Jason is still in the area and I see him at shows from time to time.  Larry moved to Maryland and we've fallen out of touch.  I saw him last at Cabin Fever when he was exhibiting his LA France fire engine.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 06, 2018, 01:21:43 AM
Ah ok, I wasn't aware that he had moved.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 09, 2018, 10:45:26 PM
Thanks again for taking the time to read through my ramblings. :insane: 

With the majority of the work on the major bock component behind me I turned my attention toward the cam cylinder/housing.  On the original engine, this “part” is cast as part of the block.  I couldn’t think of how to begin to machine this as one part, thus I chose to fabricate the cam cylinder separately and then affix it to the main block component.

Here I give you a picture of this cam cylinder, mounted to the main block.  A little feathering with filling compound and some paint and I’m thinking it should look to be as one unit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/viu3gR0OnZZUk9zXATwQLiIng66nLo1_lliagNScsOk97tPO2SX8OyEPOz7O-zHoMc20nNAp4pceN3o58VdXPjjCqhgRiiLpQ3C5vpTz9gdWVk-z6Y_AEmxenZyuGGC0YpGBS9sIVg=w2400)


This is a view of the rear of the block.  The governor cover will eventually attach here and cover the flyball/weight governor that rides behind the camshaft on the cam mandrel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JCPJb-d0XSMo6njOzS5uLPVT9Vz5iGKDlneR6EkUDg0Iphdr5stwB2zGBNEBFevVB1UG4usZhU34BIJM8Kb4DyUO_toht2ft7xMGJpoxLuc1slR7XtcihpISmdrCmbwyS33f2DZftQ=w2400)


With the cam cylinder in place it was time to think about fabricating the cam mandrel.  This is a rod that affixes to the threaded protrusion in the front of the cam cylinder (see first picture in this post) and upon which the camshaft and governor flyweights ride.  Here you should see the cam mandrel in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aTaOHh0m6YZeCCKOGmZbjsIWEkbkyrUTkx12soCXZV_2R-xzJDk79dYXIEDWcno0RhednfCto--fQyWnAfb1s7S0Y6k-Lscz2yObtFieq-bl8Ai84cOiY86OHjpJdeCZBPZjyAPgyA=w2400)


I would have preferred to fabricate the cam cylinder from aluminum (it would have been easier) but I had reservations on the strength and fatigue characteristics of aluminum where the camshaft and governor are supported by the cam mandrel which is only attached at the front of the cam cylinder by the threaded front of the cam cylinder.  I though steel would hold up better; thus I took the effort to use steel in its fabrication.

I’m eager to get the crankshaft and camshaft in place and then fabricate the helical gears that drive the camshaft and see how this all works out.  This is where I’ll be focusing my attention in the immediate future. 
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 19, 2018, 09:28:05 PM
Winter made a re-appearance here in North Carolina so shop time for the last few days has been limited.  I was occupied Saturday at the first show of the season at Lillington with the Sandhills Antique Farm Equipment Club.  It was a bit chilly in the early morning but it warmed up nicely as the day progressed and the rain held off as forecast. 
 
I did manage to get out to the shop Sunday and Monday to work on this engine.  Unfortunately, a bonehead error caused me to reject my first attempt at a PTO bearing cover.  :facepalm2:  Possibly with a little extra effort expended in another direction, I might have been able to convert the piece into an acceptable drink coaster, :ROFL: but certainly not the bearing cover which was my goal. :embarassed:  Fortunately I found another candidate piece of aluminum so I able to begin afresh.  Below is a photo of the completed bearing cover:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LDnBncv2MpapZ-GdFfaeg4Sn5UfjCL56_uFbOOK9IciA98NF-R14QWnOlfWbGQw5ZYCIaM9oHi0cYpbHVmbpgxzyCmKAFe0N1KYYlWneymXSK1lajwO29PSIl8tPWcc0qwgcR6qZzw=w2400)


Next was the magneto bearing cover.  Here I’m milling out voids that occur on the full size.  They don’t seem to serve any purpose; I’m assuming they are there to reduce weight and material in the casting?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vtDWWu37XmlDw0Uy3yPTT3ZlK_OJcXLEpEzx3rx--k6hPIzd6O9YWoG_pn1fBtxKF8gq3Ur8jBdzjZrDIC4s9MDYl5XO9aRbiF4w9PsZA4wUnLf0Bd0RXxTBw0ssUfXYNwmzBu1VWg=w2400)


Below is a view of the completed magneto bearing cover.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lUe_wuuKoTul_WhjIg59i02gLpOZ8416GOf-06dn9FiI7uPUT615sSDj1WSs4l8ICTlupJRVMmttDieFp0qPTXu9xx0X9BlT3mcB7UholcPBJzcOXiwYrBbFOO_hM0LFRttFfKoN7g=w2400)
 

Finally I give you a few photos of these covers mounted on the block.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tbwyohcNCkUxs-gRepuJNCL5WV_ICVlCYi3M4PrVcGsVK0SAD2jBK6_9OAA5A3VVCAhVbZSQdKNvufVl1sX04oxBK81507XgmZxL_VH8XF4ZyFYn4ED_VBhMX689PJAdbWeiK8CK6g=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EbnoSDTc3oJ1dCZ3N_JOkB9C1TteFp0Z2ayylNPJDAflXizx1j7sBVSjls5LeaDA3_YYZ_g_H8_At5OCAjILfTHPXdk7n79P2AMIP2Ooz7NXCfMWKAoGBK38lsxiR-MYJaLJ2Lq7aA=w2400)


I also got a start on the crankshaft today, more on that in the next post.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 19, 2018, 11:44:36 PM
Craig, you are moving at warp speed on this one, looks great though.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on March 20, 2018, 01:12:48 AM
Nice progress Craig.

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on March 20, 2018, 10:02:17 AM
Truly outstanding work Craig! This is my favorite type of work, carving shapes from solid aluminum.
I'm following along with great interest.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 22, 2018, 12:41:57 AM
Before I begin, thanks to Bill, Dave, and George for their support and comments, and thanks for all the rest of you for your curiosity in opening this thread and seeing what’s going on.  :happyreader:

George: lots more imitation casting work to follow  :ThumbsUp:

 Without followers, making these posts is rather pointless.
 
Tuesday I started on the crankshaft.  I used to use 4140 annealed steel for these but I found that I can make a serviceable crankshaft for a fraction of the cost with standard hot rolled steel (and I can get it locally); I wouldn’t want to use cold roll: it would warp up like a pretzel.

This piece wasn’t especially long, but when I faced it, I thought I’d use my steady rest to help the three-jaw chuck in supporting this piece.  Also, I don’t get to use the steady rest that often and you don’t want to miss an opportunity to play with ALL your toys. :Lol:   Here I’m facing the piece of steel so I have a good, flat end to work with.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a0Yo7To-2NExPijj67RkVKaj0QUmz0MkN0O0A5tXZWGH97Yx8uUYZx6CY_vGdgGK6vbY8tTgElkjXXh9m2kHglKFzR6ZBqRl2DDKloRtiWtPPLvdUPJo0v6HdPBrfO1AwRL9ko-aeg=w2400)

Now that I have it faced I’m reducing the diameter to the correct overall dia.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gb0mFxG1YBNFMCMNe2zXM4W4iVxSWFgl60YK03VHIujPMN9DfJzR8RHt8Pzx0pJSsLyYgaDyntzTXBGKvcvAySAh-5P0Oyk0BBMJL3-z4iepoUonGCIzCrDIFg_pH6S0OIWpI4aIjg=w2400)


After this I sawed the piece to rough length and then faced the other end to get it to the correct length.  I then located and center drilled the centers of the two ends and then center drilled the two offsets (one on each end) for the connecting rod journal.

It was at about this time  :thinking: that I realized that at this correctly sized, reduced diameter, were I to cut a round cylinder around the offset center (for mounting in a collet or chuck for turning the connecting rod journal) I would be removing material needed for the finished crankshaft. :facepalm:  Had I thought of this before cutting the piece to length, I could have provided for this and then once the connecting rod journal was turned, removed the extra material. :wallbang: :hammerbash:

Oh well,   On to plan “B”.  :headscratch:   I decided to turn (work) the piece between centers.  To do this I needed to fabricate a centering pin to place in the lathe chuck or collet (I didn’t have one), and I also needed a lathe dog (didn’t have one of those either) to make the work piece spin with the lathe.  Two side-tracked projects later, :rant: I was ready to begin fabrication of the connecting rod journal portion of the crankshaft.

Here is the setup I used.  I was originally planning to use my indexing head with a collet to hold one end of the crankshaft, but there was no way to affix the lathe dog to a collet.  I used my dividing head with its three jaw chuck instead.  Actually, I’m not sure how well a traditional lathe dog would have worked.  For this operation I needed to control the rotation (forward as well as backward) of the work piece.  The “lathe dog” I fabricated does this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sI7FyGwu1xSSUuxnx_MTPCHV_XxidyoZKvParhMbDIUL_AzQFlZN12SbwDhtMJo02F-Kj4DV6RP4pm4bIMGShekMiLYPyOQvzoTzCrRZRgf1oslWmysBpcROPldqiVo1M-deCPY50Q=w2400)

A better view of the “working part” of this operation.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7y6ufa_NttOJ4c9iPkte6ljvryZXFlT6-lYvd4mRgZYA8hF8mMTjdisecghq0YZPM3-OyXvJ_6bxVxAaDhSNiubJj_XlNDo6CF19GQNfz9cbh5CS_oDhqkps7RvvLgtXCrl42gRXQw=w2400)


The procedure, as I’m sure you surmise, is to keep cutting across the work piece as the piece is rotated and the mill table is raised.  All I’m trying to do here is remove stock.  The distance across the journal should be ½ inch when complete.  There just isn’t enough room to do this work efficiently on the lathe.  Even on the mill I still spent several hours working this connecting rod journal down to a near finished size where I could transfer the work to the lathe to finish.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3gccVMsqTU9VumPtLWphzZS8pspER1DI7OrEuNu3HOiGZFtN7zH17N4z3r7VQQaLv_x4Fh4N-7rhHvgnK9-iXcUxCycRPSLGIY_6si_-J1YgFQ5p9JeHLGSDYARcWqqO9NpopquZpA=w2400)


After MANY passes, I have about as much material removed as I need.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TiZsLnid1mecXgQWps3WgXu-Uq_Vfh0SAN8rFrpqCyuaIKs_RVPJoT6q0wIQGcuUW1e4-2FB3JEWDWhSOuM43NCsFuATDlemMaOxi9q6RkrHUt9ERRp_lxX2wibu5-tb5KD4oANjCg=w2400)


Now, with the work transferred to the lathe, it’s time to finish this journal.  I don’t know about you, but this kind of work makes me very nervous.  With the work swinging in a wide arc and the tool reaching in so far, it just seems to be a potential recipe for disaster.  You definitely want to keep your attention on what you’re doing.  Here I’m enlarging the journal width and putting a finished face on the left side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d5wNm0uLKHm-mAVhvYxiT8Y0MigmwSyNhEIKnPLzMJmCtcyQNE2Vk-Jk-2ckI-l6tW_FXhx_O6ycOtKaMUrHbyMHUPFC6yx6Ik7n_riM1HlydeT0HNcRxYWRFNp3s1BuOYUMSTH5hw=w2400)


Repeating the process on the right side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N8UDaToAIKql9lF-Arhmg42_baW6EcsuQB8Evbo6acg5RDPGuIICN0zBH9ImJZRhlyBtO-Q-kESOIDS3tmILh8F-yXP4N7VjuFqNyJXhjGb7uQYZBwFxekshwvrqYgpTcmMqMAeuoA=w2400)


With the two sides faced and the width to the correct size I’m reducing the journal to the correct diameter (as well as leaving a small shoulder on each side.  I’m doing this with a parting tool, ground flat.  I was getting some chatter that was leaving shallow flats on the journal face.  I couldn’t seem to eradicate this; I tried raising the tool a bit, lowering the tool a bit; nothing seemed to eliminate them. :help:  Fortunately they were quite shallow and by leaving the journal diameter a thou. or two oversize I was able to eradicate them with a minimum amount of filing.  After a light dusting with some emery paper, I’m calling this journal complete.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n6E7UE27ffZy7hukxwVVxtZnkGVBVwXKGCCrryvcDCZSNFRccX84zMVUwGtBHiT6PIPvhe1Sdb_s3k5r4l0IEzvmsmrXicxn_WXJLyI-3J7Fdeo0MrTOrkO_-_OC1T-gB2wHvmloMg=w2400)


With all this nerve wracking work complete, :insane: next I’ll be moving the workpiece to mount on the true centers and start working down the ends of the crankshaft toward the center.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on March 22, 2018, 12:49:32 AM
I am watching the developments daily, and am impressed by your progress and your machining skills.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 23, 2018, 06:53:51 PM
Brian, I thank you for your kind words.  I also thank everyone else who is following this thread who hasn’t specifically posted a reply, and again, those of you that have in the past.  Thanks for your interest.
Over these last two days work continued on the crankshaft.
Before placing the work in the lathe, I made a spacer to fit with a resistance fit alongside the connecting rod journal.  This was done so that pressure while turning the piece between centers would not collapse the journal.  I have a friend who solders these spacers in place.  I use hot glue.  It seems to hold the spacer well and the cleanup is a breeze.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3gKlo-VuPR6WAmVVWlp7saHQX9u_f3nlkvWiBCIGThfJ0UnocLkQf9zROZylIKxhhzltuV5ZUAtu-Jh9tpEs7_9lprO9o7-UAmtiH2atnpE3Dwe5Rio63U4rBY-Yqw2KmnCaXjUSPw=w2400)

Now begins the mindless, laborious task of turning down both ends of the crankshaft.  Here I’ve just started on the PTO side.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XUMcunYG9hpe_1fo0KJbKvi-Dvn3HV3pLp5jYyglp_W1QD0EZNc7tOPRYKc1d-2yZ5fbT70wUUU_DGG99ZsF_m28Fgt75l8dXzfS4iylNT_iyBJBtv9WYwUL9MUsqPBlWtVtRoMFHg=w2400)


Here I have the PTO side near completion.  I usually leave both sides a little oversize until I’ve reduced both shafts to near diameter, then I go back and finish both.  Maybe this is overkill, but with the amount of material I’m removing, I don’t want any stresses in the material to pull the crankshaft out of true.  I’m thinking any out-of-true situation can be rectified by several light passes on each shaft side when I bring them down to their final diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nrgejqfz0eAK7dwSP8UrRD4V6lnYr_xHRLDGDgaC35IIetF-8jON1atGuIYh_Jy8JFd7KDNuqEQZBL5Hq3FJ3mVruzKWyUi2VTrbhpz5C_X-Zv1G8yrDr_p0YQywSsYhpzvd0KtBJA=w2400)


Here I’m just starting on reducing the diameter of the magneto side of this crankshaft.  The lathe was running around eight hours to remove the excess stock on both sides of this crankshaft.  It was a busy day.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/etffNO9ky1g0dlu2Fe2KrH--k11L6uSuoTtIzjunZxFKwVffL9Fk-vvaJnZVLrPE3GRUVGlJOSQ-BvBq4jMphwBnCfWWrFwgPxYvmRhoCIpKX9yq_vMsP5W4ezAaIp13X8Bh_WSqDA=w2400)


Next, not shown, I placed the near complete crankshaft back on the mill, held between centers with a collet in my indexing head on one side and a dead center on the other.  With this setup I formed the crankshaft counterweights from the round center sections.  I meant to take a picture of this but… well… you know how it goes.
Finally, I needed to put a ¼-28 thread on the magneto side.  This, with a nut, holds then flywheel to the crankshaft.  I did this, mostly with the lathe and then finished with a die.
 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AXcPYGIz6_sEqvzaBiAyFlX4xL7zsjJmKmEtfZKGhUz3ljBjEwfSuNLdRvhKIEBaoaiyups9JXF4qXJYNv4GalLMJuI3W0Sf2PZ-C4KS6BQ6Xo9SSj8f-QsRlwUUi0P0TMAbfGhCJQ=w2400)

After this I cut in a keyway on the PTO side for a pulley.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4u4Lwe3SaF6_HtWNFIWuMPPx-tC0vDBXY-pEzUkAJ1tg3aqubI1skZgB1RGU4isZawcQ7J8idD_qUVos90tQlFprQ28ewd3lLUo49-GJMcaRbgm0v0R-wZ4mOUcJrQCN_h3eL_0uoQ=w2400)


One more operation that is required to complete this crankshaft is cutting a taper on the magneto side end on which the flywheel is mounted.  I won’t be doing this now however, the flywheel with its taper needs mated to the crankshaft and I’ll do that operation when I fabricate the flywheel: many months from now.

Here is a look at the finished crankshaft.  It’s hard to believe this started out as a 2” diameter cylinder; though the chips in my trash can allude to this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Pk3_CdPgVNXmKU6l6XyRfbIdWcJxQWK_x31cxZLGbnul9iLW-nS8LXPI3icE8u-i-7ZKoWr65INNTHMOCFGjpNJ8O7DgfEHUOH9jshCuCjKkV6qnlR6VaPkDS8niM73ltWN7lPPIQ=w2400)


Finally, a view of the crankshaft as mounted in the block.  Everything looks good to me, and the crankshaft spins freely in the bearings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jwBrNDfoHf2i_RFiPO7L3tCwOHRpvov89MKzZZ6wd1Q-YzDNgPSjzMfEowRGQF2gAm1U9JOUFcs7Kj1hSIJ1PQZvgmyXbrgu9-VUUx7T7mtVoUnZTVS6Dm5b5PJTY9kj3pyzlJuF1g=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: crueby on March 23, 2018, 07:08:52 PM
Nice job on the crankshaft!   :cheers:

I had not thought of hot glue for that kind of spacer. I assume some more heat softens it again - anything particular needed to remove any residue?
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: AlexS on March 23, 2018, 08:21:51 PM
Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 23, 2018, 10:13:44 PM
Thanks Brian.  I just grab it with a pair of pliers and yank it out.  A little acetone and a brush cleans any residue up.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 23, 2018, 11:51:23 PM
Very nicely done Craig. If it turns over freely, you must have gotten it right ;)

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on March 24, 2018, 12:18:23 AM
If you use a glue gun and hot glue sticks, the hot glue will peel right off with no mess. The spacer in the gap is more to prevent things moving when the cranks is machined between centers. If you tighten the tailstock enough to work properly that gap will close an alarming amount, and the crank will be crooked as a dogs leg when it comes out of the lathe. All the glue is doing is keeping the spacer in place so it doesn't fly out from centrifugal force.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: kvom on March 24, 2018, 01:43:40 AM
I hadn't read this thread for some time and got caught up tonight.

There were two Volstros for sale at the consignment desk at CF this year.  I don't think either sold.  I've only seen one used.  Like rotary tables, CNC does away with the need for these, but they are really impressive works of machinery.

I was surprised that the liner needed to be bored after being pressed into the block.  It seems to be that boring on the lathe would yield less taper than on the mill.  However, if you needed more material in order to facilitate pressing that would explain it.

Looks like some nice work here.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 26, 2018, 11:38:07 PM
Chris, Alex, Bill, Brian, Kirk; thanks for your kind comments.

 Brian- your comments on the spacer are spot on.  I’ve always used a spacer.  I can imagine the disappointment if you didn’t.

Kirk- saw the Volstros at Cabin Fever.  They were priced at the top of the going rate so I suspect that’s why they didn’t sell.  I got mine in an eBay auction for under half those prices, I guess I lucked out.

I never tried pressing a thinner liner; I’ve always done it this way.  My Bridgeport bores a concentric hole if you don’t push the boring head with a heavy cut.  I follow this up with a hone (just a spring brake hone) but if there was any taper I suspect I could work it out with the hone.

I’ve been working toward the time I need to fabricate the helical gears that drive the camshaft.  This project is dead if I can’t make acceptable gears. :toilet_claw:  Up thread I talk about the process (thanks again George and Chuck). 

I was so engrossed in making the crankshaft that my single train of thought  didn’t move on to think too much about the gears ::).  Now that I’m there, I thought I would get some leaded steel that’s supposed to be very machine able: I’m thinking I’ll need all the help  I can get.  With that in mind I ordered a bar of 11L17 steel.  It is supposed to machine “like butter” and is a stock used for gearing-  :happyreader: so the literature says.  While I’m waiting for delivery, I thought I’d look into the valves.

I took lots of pictures, some aren’t that clear.  Looks like I’ll need to start using a REAL camera, as opposed to my phone.

I’m using stainless steel for the valves.  Don’t know what type it is; it was a gift from a friend who was closing down his shop.  Here I’ve just started working the piece down to the largest OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U0e4as79nAUzqxHp3-pWcRm98S5ksVMUPYQ4QIJVQUafFCOiur6Z5EBeQVKp1X5Pn_lxcoGcM_OI7iiWNYuhObZsudcqZ3ffVCKrjbqT2EfGtFzEyiF4tLKkWtpq5dOT79s3-hd-_g=w2400)


Once this was accomplished, I needed to center drill the end.  No way can I machine the slender valve stem and expect it to be uniform in width without some support on the end.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_1tFXGzGrdaDBL9FG2Aw0hiPM9znInuxpyZ7JXrHr7BAgG-Gxvqz5wCVm6X0NS0ySCwk37D8cfgie7nB9z1KuZmvgq0xmarKw5t3pmkvA5nsCksvINOdoIxmOA6Gf9NZ6GvX49Ysew=w2400)


Now that the end is supported, I’m working the shaft down to the next diameter step.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NRM_Om5eYuEQwhsQNWdr442ranP3r3N6pGlyjvOahVkNAqUX8g7RhscOLvPTiX15ziHkPRQJnRukmliqTysfJ9eKQigujqsvw_AXcGUli51j-8YGFdg7YT7W_JNgq4JArwOEJ7H2Zw=w2400)


Finally, I’m working on the valve stem itself.  One of the things about your own design is that you can change the design as you go.  I had originally specified these valve stems to be .094 dia. :headscratch:  This is ridiculously small for this size of valve.  I changed it to .156 (also re-reamed the valve guides in the block). 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A0paZKpNmggpMsIyp2OxXj45hyvR2ygzc9UlcVA7k3snAtzVRUgwzTa_E6mRM3eFfO2VCPXB-b3OQvLEI87MXDV8T5rI74avPmyyOBwgwemIF26zyrxlAkkgYYjmYDWLEzaj8LzGvQ=w2400)
 

Here I’m just finishing up a valve stem.  They’re still pretty slender.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0qsQWS4ZmeOykvUR0UcQAQi1WfkDVWurco6j3Ee6aF38x5TeXGt7C6gAoGCwQJva5z6Iz_tEJaY4-mQLjtscKqunxM3PulhxAsp6RXS1g_aBJUxOegyvQZ0dQQQHDES9khx9Ud1Qng=w2400)


This is the setup I used to cut the valve lip.  It’s a 60 degree angle and I used the compound on the lathe  to facilitate this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IdF5lWyMQ2u-2PBk8EwNoywIXzvMreiZqTMLNFHzb7JGK1dtiQUnXIMmpv67wOP9HK3krKOhFoE1S99kI3GQH7wJc3qGz1W0g2mSP1H7ishpA-PKBEfx7NTmgrWYWhWd2KF90hJtjQ=w2400)


And a closer view.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bQq3SDZwnS-8nxy4RfeDk9-85bhfPO_ylQD0de5iTzqa0kmwuxDvb8A1e3Tydnc9PXq5c8EauSnqifDgP9B_L_B-aPyo6PzOCzLL8_kcaUAsicwt9A7ysFqg8jr76GeG7qPDo5_K1Q=w2400)


After that I cut the valve off the stock and faced it.  (Jo- you following?).  In another thread Jo showed leaving a stub on the top of the valve to facilitate valve grinding. :ThumbsUp:  I commented that this was a GERAT idea and I would certainly be using it on this engine, so of course I forgot all about it till I had faced the top of the valves. :facepalm:   Well, there’s always the NEXT engine.

All the Lauson engines use a pin, captured in a keeper to retain the valve spring.  If it’s good enough for the full size, it’s good enough for the model. :Lol:  Here I’m drilling the hole through the valve stem for the pin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uawj-9TdAF3ebb4PD7UoxNbkC3NAACNzXebN87V2dxhKV0aqinNK-l-guyAaXKgW5DNF5fwTssV03cHla5yFQofrWqnxeS7hpHzFVzZNrwvKjsoXOlHOlDn-CFBHQwnbbdl1WGmSaQ=w2400)
 

Since I’m NOT  :wallbang: using Jo’s method for valve grinding, I’ll cut a slot in the valve top and use the traditional screwdriver method.  A woodruff keyway cutter works great for this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y6iC_9OvAdEdspe_HtJNnhmOn3knCUFh8ce5TRuxSHgUJW2JIXlnnBHKtyoN62L1ElLvcftxkEnKlopvNxXVVR6Grg74mrNu4nNA85B4COBNuLj3Xg61MtTSKfwgeZ6PeUJorOarrw=w2400)

Finally the completed valves. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H0fYm1eqT5Qm8seBj0RKSRWxDt9kFVj8cHIfExstmDdXQE7yua6Bm23ZDrmPIRTbkSWNboI2oCDFuSf_UhmqC6C8fev_8HovEpOa4X8JwwopvoeaFSXVtvuSgVSQ2q9VRTBPR3PeMQ=w2400)


While I was at it I lapped them to the valve seats.  One valve needed very little lapping and the other; well, it took a while.  Some keepers and springs and I’ll need to find something else to work on till the gear material arrives.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 27, 2018, 12:22:19 AM
More amazing progress Craig. Very impressive.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on March 27, 2018, 12:31:13 AM
Craig, I have been following along and just haven’t taken the time to comment and for that I apologize. You my friend, are one of those that should be categorized as a “metal carver” and not just a machinist. I’m really enjoying this build  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:. Funny you showed the valve turning when I checked in tonight. I have a Red Wing that was torn down to paint and upon reassembly, it swallowed the intake valve when trying to restart it. Today I remade the valve and I remembered to leave the “lapping handle” :lolb:. I also tried George Britnell’s suggestion and only left about a .030” wide face on the valve: lapped and sealed much easier than the first one did.  I’m sure you’ve shown, but, how will this one be started? Anyhoo, carry on and I will be following. Y’all come see us,

Cletus

Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 27, 2018, 07:58:36 PM
Again thanks to Bill, Cletus, and all others who are following along with this build.  It’s a joy to bring y’all along as I go.  Cletus, thanks for your reference to my skills.  We all bring to this hobby what we can.  There are true “masters” on this site (and I know a few others personally) who’s caliber of work I can only aspire to emulate.

I got home from my volunteer work today and went out to the shop.  It’s a cold, damp, basically raw and nasty day here in North Carolina and though the kerosene heater took the chill off it couldn’t seem to do much about the damp.  I didn’t stay out in the shop long.  The weather later in the week bodes to be considerably better.

I thought I’d finish installing the valves; all I had left to do was to wind some springs and then install the components.  For those of you who haven’t been moved to wind a spring, I’ll show you that it’s deceptively easy.  I have an assortment of music wire from my Hammered Dulcimer building days, so the materials are readily at hand.  For these springs I choose .034 diameter wire (which is the heaviest I have).  I might want a slightly heavier wire, well see how well the valves seat once I get the engine running.

The spring will come out at a slightly larger diameter than the mandrel you wind it on.  This is usually trial-and-error till I come across the right diameter mandrel for the size wire and spring needed.

I put the lathe down on back gears: as slow as it will go.  Chuck an appropriate mandrel in the lathe chuck (I’m using a piece of brass rod).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gkM7T3M4XxQwyPyBCkQnlMh4-Yw6Ke5SzrMpH_tuo2FlkkAfLzBl2t4YedGGyXHL9Ji6JizA8lLSoAXITAhUvCdItCFoE13-Fl3rh8vMtLO46IcX144-C_7gx6mqXj6DvH79yoaXQg=w2400)


Turn on the lathe and pull the wire tight against the mandrel.  You want to have a few coils tight together, then form the length of the spring, then finish with a few more coils tight together again.  Wind a few extra at the beginning and end of the spring.  Turn off the lathe, remove the spring and trim the lead-in and lead-out wire stock as required.  (sorry for the blurry picture, it’s hard to hold the wire tight with one hand and operate a camera with the other)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eGWJq--PXB_Xw5GOcL3zHDTeSZCMNxOM-Nmqk4sTU2pLxxx32GUb1HfphSKEox6ujQ1Yigq26kl8jCs5ivGklVx22Yazvy62G436Ly-QTH4Gx1TWGZYbnPCxMJMJn_MFl0XauJ2lOw=w2400)


Finally, a view of the springs and valves installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aKU1Juy0Q6wqUEFbZ-R9r6T_9F9QAeFVeNQbeYSUGuLMZwh_bhK3k_LqbFbCeWjxu3vMrOpSnlfImCwYDin3VUy2393gBDSC3trT898-Yn2Hh0q4sv6IdJarmp8Dbuyu2Ysa2K-GNA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CBqaIvRkrw1H2Ui5MsIN5DRN03O-GDJHcf84h7JclfBn2uldgZFSN6lxr0xzO7lrnSfEpBz05wHwQbUQmMe7XzT8vdhVZiDWGnxc5KVG6x3LZapJYfvgPAAU6psqgNLG_OcxxAz8Zw=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on March 27, 2018, 09:54:10 PM
It's coming along nicely Craig. Your weather isn't much better than ours at this point.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on March 28, 2018, 03:07:33 AM
Craig,
Wanted to let you know that I'm still following along. I have a question about the valves? What is the step between the stem and head of the valve? I have  never seen that before. Never seen the insides of a Lauson either for that matter.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 29, 2018, 12:41:50 AM
Art, you ask an excellent question.  The valve doesn’t look like any valve I’ve ever seen :shrug:, and it doesn’t look like the valve in the full size either. :-[ 

Why did I make it that way :headscratch:?  Well, I mindlessly followed the drawing. :ThumbsUp:
Why was that detail on the drawing? :thinking:  Because the 3-D rendering has that detail and the drawing was auto-created by the software from the 3-D rendering. :ThumbsUp:
So, why does the 3-D rendering have it?   :-[  Uh…. :stickpoke: Er…. :stickpoke:  obviously, when I was designing the valve I was called away during the design for some pressing matter, and later I thought the design was complete. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:  (at least that’s my story and I’m stick’in to it :lolb:).

I don’t expect the engine to rev like a 2-cycle, but it don’t need any unnecessary weight in the valve train either.  I disassembled the valve train, trimmed off the step, and reassembled.  Thanks for pointing this out, can’t believe this didn’t occur to me also during fabrication. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yMvAHTlKapuL-drfr7iJhcgroWX6VrG9RrQJdD5QWvrpVL3qarV3ndUQZJaR1F3uWe5zfoYEkenOgQy8a3ddvLJa92j2U9uX92etScPfFUBJ0ZCEnt9PqCbFjarkVB6xNurvPtFlZQ=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 29, 2018, 12:56:26 AM
Hey Craig, maybe you had unknowingly come up with a revolutionary new design....karna and all that stuff. The modified valve does look more conventional though  ;)

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on March 29, 2018, 01:25:26 AM
Been there. Done that. Lied like Hell to cover it up!!!---------
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on March 29, 2018, 02:57:18 AM
Craig,
Glad I could be of service. :lolb: Hind site being 20/20 and all it seems rather humorous. Don't think I'd have missed the valve, something else though, guilty as charged. :ROFL:
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on March 30, 2018, 01:52:43 AM
Thanks to all of you who, very good naturedly, laughed with me on the above valve snafu.  (what WAS I thinking?)  Also, thanks for the responses and those of you silently following along.   

We have a saying here in North Carolina: “If you don’t like the weather today, just wait: it will be different tomorrow”.  Earlier this week I was complaining about the cold, damp weather; today was a beautiful day and I had the shop door open and my flannel shirt was traded for a T-shirt.

I stopped by the local Metal Supermarket business (it’s only a few miles up the road) and they had a piece of aluminum from which I could make the base for this engine.  Here I’m sizing the piece to get started.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xLREJAFasXEg-hOPo7rnaE_MI-CZJ6BN8nKqmWc3oPkQe6BgWZle_2sVpsTFrCm1jfvVAqFifyBQBdwtUsDUfanaO7CRgy7i514C2Kosi3x5w4BIGL41v6MhWpK93v6D9rWT8sJ_qw=w2400)


Next I worked on forming the oil sump.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sR-0YPRWvS2JmZz6J2NvROX7LH9TeXWisiI6UCBrjwVr6UJ8nsa4ZtfM6jG4tae7YjAu0utHxSd58ic0D2YLQj9XagEStYdyrtcFtTOcO1l3NCaSnm62TUamS7hbBTH5fjwaxBV-sQ=w2400)


This was followed by drilling and tapping the necessary holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ywexiZ91L13WMKsqy8zDl_TuCzD2PIh4BRG6mgPxVdIgEXYTDtY9ZB_58F9CB6bdHJc8AtOvaXDSHEwDiOq_EUEUmOxiYG5D_30EFHDoeNQMb7WPuD2FfPUSRe_6SM98Ph8QG4eX3Q=w2400)


The guys in the pattern shop at Lauson must have been really creative; why make a simple base when you can have a complicated one?  Here is the base once I’ve milled in all the necessary ramps.  Here I’m about to cut away the material to form the mounting legs.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZlaH2b7v7b9IglUcnDbqPlklqvGpF48-yc5R6Z6zuPd7rNZ5tm1L3KXCPcjBVuCq-DD-bTMR6Ng8Depkf7ZcCrBA39bubhGd_UcgR4DvdM1o0iRopAieKxZ5IUKd0bsESzu07Gn7sg=w2400)


Here is a photo of the finished base; well I still need to drill out the oil drain channel, tap the drain plug, and drill and tap the hole for the oil fill plug.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wqoZdPD8DzBlzzlEZQRY42r2fNb3nQCNj5FUH7yWszcI-pFgdIdVT7H9wTWBPx-WUzN64TXyRrdyAUdaDyLxBypppJ05ZwalfVj9ILwuUjLQygvB1Dp2L4_HNOzZDZWay_ABIpgW3Q=w2400)


If you think I’m not making lots of swarf, I show you my trash can.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iLJOdMFi2o5L9fpNCnN96X6rJlaqTMf6wenngj6LrM8Alp-_8w3VFSCpuoHN3hBt4tQyeAg4sOFt6SFz1hUu08cauRjyab88vl7bfk0TTogyuuEwfmfgPHJ7_dhJRSPkdh0hn0Xplw=w2400)


The engine mounted on the base
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GoLroIXglD3ChGnKZ2Wttsn-PKk_3rN2mpTrXyz-zo5bngz1HbIMIW-GndhsS2COGcws_6AhQ6ZHQWYmsW51tWerxlOcQH3z-x5rGHcUV5eZG6UN4SYqgITk7-MB9z8T59rBbRsfMw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mV_WvohZ5aJrYn_j9EL5V7nlSQY8EQgl1pHbPqloz1iHatkty1LjwtGNjQX1NID7w_RJIW5eAmCZTdr463U_IPS868ti7F2fjj3MXo2XXj9g-AuncAu__Wfrg1bstA-CeDr-uPaIYA=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on March 30, 2018, 02:39:56 AM
Craig,
Great base for the Lauson. A lesson I learned from my dad, always laugh with not at.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on March 30, 2018, 03:08:30 PM
Nice work on the base Craig. And yes, the weather this week has been incredible here in NC!!

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 02, 2018, 01:18:42 AM
Thanks to all of you who are hanging with me on this build.

Over the past few days I’ve been concentrating on making the helical gears that will drive the camshaft from the crankshaft.  I need, once again, to give MANY thanks to Chuck Fellows and George (I’m assuming) Britnell for heading me in the right direction for producing serviceable helical gears.

I had two gears to make: first a 60 degree helical gear that fits on the crankshaft; second: a 30 degree helical gear that is an integral part of the camshaft.

Here is a picture of one of the fabrication steps in forming the 60 degree crankshaft gear.  I have the gear blank mounted on an arbor (to facilitate cutting the gear) and I’m sizing the gear blank to the correct outside diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O8W8c6WNaQUZbLmeD9qJ03y4pcFnwqnpb0K7TXEmuU8CByIbyl2PavW3_foIuB1FG2Zw8RIABO0HuNWqX_W9BBSpkP4OhZlSnOFrqaZBo2RZrG96QYJUlIgGK--mo3IdykuM0yMGWQ=w2400)


Once the blank was sized I placed the arbor in the helical gear cutting jig and commenced to cut the gear.  Lots has been said about this gear cutting device in other threads, and since I’m just repeating a process discussed previously I won’t belabor this point.  While discussing my intent to cut helical gears, I will say that a good friend and model maker (who has abilities I can only aspire to simulate) wanted to see this device.  When I showed him what I was doing he described it as “Rube Goldberg Genius”.  The kudos go to Chuck and this was high praise in my opinion. Here I’ve set up to begin cutting the crankshaft gear.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L1YJj19j4P31Habz0OaCCekdygfedHwGpIn-A4rJW5jJVSZhs8gS69WBh_3wFCzI6j0VUhNyEwKCMqrz7CGXdSIaDRzDMlijgCf5NDxYtrz_aKIuT_QIixBqItTkV_Cdpg9_Z64uBg=w2400)


On to the camshaft and camshaft gear.  Since the camshaft gear is integral to the camshaft, there were a few more fabrication steps.  The camshaft has an eccentric in the front to drive the oil pump.  Here, I’ve mounted the stock in the 4-jaw off center and am turning the eccentric.  (Actually, this picture and the next are in order, but were taken out of order.  This picture shows a bit of the arbor that was turned in the next photo.  I forgot to take this picture in sequence and I thought I had the piece pushed back in the chuck far enough so you couldn’t see the arbor- sorry for any potential confusion).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LJEf2Io8jxcX3hhtzoRp8n2lwa1IC_gqLsQOOrnebNyFRyiqo270Wqj216SPoR-bnh7OLaWhJcCi3V1nGZk2VkbjuvNp_C58arTMT3pHohiNssf7TSB7_88ZXthyhq-YyEjSJaTugQ=w2400)


I decided to machine the camshaft with an attached arbor which I can use to hold the gear while cutting the teeth.  After the camshaft is complete, I’ll just cut the arbor off.  Here I’m fabricating the arbor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aeL3T2KcRyj6Dgcy8tPZO78yEvH-D8qBRUV9BRaBqX9WuoPTg64qPngYL6DHskR4_k2DI1eze9LpwXt5jQ_mvkkBUVJY1BnEWdgQYgmZaGVvD4bzS4ncfWZ8ui3y54xTCaSRKgIDVw=w2400)


I don’t need the offset center on the eccentric any longer, here I’m removing it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V3sAUfAW2XQR1nhwhh-PSVDdaKx8ZopEIdHX5l7THD1D1VeuUz_7KU7-_CMMxpWyyILUxz9bxbWELOdwgvmpYuQHnfN0xhW3z167wbF7IFePIWzzKA0cRPhtFlfHG0_5snr2WWFgSw=w2400)


Now it’s time to drill and ream the center of the shaft so it can ride on its mandrel when mounted in the engine.  I’m holding the piece in the collet by the arbor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jZCV1YAbsbsdWghXzgV8ANtB1_BIeJ9ocQ9fV4_pu5XowLpdfWJ82d8VYNVVXzqric9kZ4-Oc5bcPB4K6fy9vMkwfu9eHaqhowdgPkzJDobxE4ODXM4f5YW3o3A-aSWMa8lxYtYirQ=w2400)


Here I’m sizing the piece for the gear outside diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0m1Eb4Cu_VurRgeRei6gqcdpKSBxBu6goA85jJZUI0ApieLQY4NiC_GVLbYR9VhWB-oZOz0OHrbnpoEGnhdgI2cX5ufOHSs4FiLPHg-UZL6dqCWi0dMYlQ-jbzA8RsBN_Ja-Tv8_Og=w2400)


Finally, I’m sizing the cam areas on both sides of the gear blank to the large diameter of the cam lobes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YxdifRHjalGUq6WYCdHgGA9Tw5P4QoAcB_sHskqjnmKw6n2SUqTSAdqP893oXdhTJki68DR1EygFwm8D9WNVsDNMo-5c6kLMRTRO1I0eeyOIHNiVFbaWkRqgTrUVdTg-Usuz3fNeNg=w2400)


A view of the completed gears and the crankshaft gear mounted to the crankshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wRlB535BUC2dfrJntjMTtTXwInGrgCAndctyo9Dak6_uOZ215cD53M3DF_cytMURBKWKDFdWGNfES-EsJvCcTUzyZFgLcqU9Ca5yCd4xGjUbjM-dNckbp4yluhG08llXGaS483lnng=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Bu9llfHmHfaPJhu1hIB4fkFTcDTsRFOdKJ8iHX1nEOi8x6K_ozVqEcgnerdOmqJHk8by9uO8iNYylfhdy6FUB2ItUvEv1T0hjPC3-8s4sR5yUX_XSJiRP548v4Ux-fPYRUFwofiTQ=w2400)

I still need to cut the cam lobes but at this point I can place the crankshaft and camshaft in the engine and see how well my gears mesh :) (or bind or don’t mesh :().  Fabricating the gears is one thing; but will they perform as desired?  Yep! :cartwheel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjShDUqf1E
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 02, 2018, 01:49:06 AM
Craig--nice work. I would like to know more about the helical gear cutting jig. Do you have a link to making it ? I don't remember seeing an article on it.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 02, 2018, 02:04:10 AM
Brian- George supplies a link on post #11 on this thread.  George also has a youtube video of him using his fixture here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blaZ5tz0_6E
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: crueby on April 02, 2018, 02:37:20 AM
Awesome results!

I took a look through the link, had to do some digging - here is the direct link to save the searching, its another of Chucks terrific posts!

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/files/HelicalAttachment.pdf

Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on April 02, 2018, 12:14:29 PM
Craig, the gears came out great! Once you make one successfully it's like you want to make another because they are so neat to look at and when they work properly you kind of get that warm fuzzy feeling that you really accomplished something.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 02, 2018, 01:47:17 PM
Craig and Chris--thank you so much.--Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 03, 2018, 11:38:36 PM
Thanks Brian, Chris, George, and all others following along; I’ve been worrying about getting these gears made properly and I was very relieved to see them come out well.  The gears are the heart and soul of this engine and without them the project would have been dead.

Now that I have the helical gears cut properly, I need to finish the cam lobes on the camshaft.  I did this on the mill, using my dividing head and turning the camshaft a few degrees between passes.  This gave me a nicely formed cam with only a minimum of file work to clean up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/01xJbCIItMojJBxBMvTbp9TAwyij3PXJ9b0PtMf9gzukCkCJemvz5ZQBOiUrhb0kNtB1S_6t14XBR_GE0HfNa-pDMkJDdRTluaqeRAG8Eex71dp3rG-EVKfwz37rDrGiHLqoirJoLw=w2400)


I was very concerned that I might mill the cam lobes backward and were than to occur; I’d need to start all over with the camshaft and re-cut the helical gear.   Needless to say, I checked and rechecked what I was doing before cutting any metal.
Here’s a video of the valves motion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGTX2jy2g4U

I was thinking of moving on to the connecting rod and piston, but with the way the engine is constructed (the full size too), if you turn the crankshaft backward, without the governor in place to hold the camshaft in position, the camshaft is pushed out the rear of the cam cylinder; thus necessitating the re-timing of the valves.  I think I’ll work on the governor next; at least the parts required to hold the camshaft in place.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on April 03, 2018, 11:41:19 PM
I bet you are relieved to have that oart done now Craig. It looks good too.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on April 03, 2018, 11:49:31 PM
Nice work on the gears and camshaft Craig!

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on April 04, 2018, 03:03:25 AM
Craig,
Still, following along. The gears & camshaft look great.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 04, 2018, 09:09:25 PM
It’s gratifying to see that y’all are hanging with me.  Thanks for your support.

Today was another productive day in the shop.  I worked on the governor and while I was there, I decided to fabricate the governor flyweights.  With these done the engine can turn over without fear of the camshaft coming out of the rear of the engine.  There are lots of governor parts yet to make, but with these I’ve finished my work with the camshaft.  Below is a photo of the flyweight assembly, along with the threaded fitting that holds them to the rear of the camshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e9acfeUV_jF8nVa8XlKP5br1aibbsydUtG6RKL9F2phqHqMvSfnVLR_YEI0HUmLcG4YqwXOiFfdzdh7iZp0GR1b78TTEIUYERp3yyPxGArG9S2NOKHAczwhPa5he846jyNnPqDd_eg=w2400)


Here I give a photo of the flyweights assembled to the rear of the camshaft.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dUQ7mNjOri7fQBvU5UNZv6L3MlF0nFiSTwqHinI-dAs5Rj68PSyJsO8nTHuqQ0nTDZxEgtiIt97m2797eBMlbKsC78CVs2R15c3gH0G3jfOHPq-5ZhItjzd82kcOTnQ7VSRChiBStg=w2400)


In this video I’m driving the crankshaft with my lathe.  Everything turns over smoothly and the governor flyweights even swing out with centrifugal force.  I’m pretty happy with the build so far.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKGggt4gHhQ

Next I’ll be concentrating on the piston, piston rings, and connecting rod.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 05, 2018, 10:17:46 PM
Fabrication of the piston was on the agenda today.  After rummaging around in my inventory and finding an acceptable candidate from which to form the piston, the first order of business was to face off the top of the piece, then turn it down to the proper outside diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0US5_rS91uXJ-sLvPj76jE5kiyD4UDoZ-M1tIDNQh6tkir12DKW_UI99IMXSFm4dVwF7WLC-fS5lP5tu7ZTkgVaZIy7DLrwdkVmQYJCAiiqoNGZ3-89Fgnmb5IW31LoBfQnBqDncfA=w2400)


Next I’m forming the ring groves.  A year ago I was walking through the vendor isles at the Cabin Fever Exposition with a good friend of mine, an exceptional machinist, and a superb model engine builder.  We were walking by the Arthur R. Warner Co. high speed tooling booth and Gary pointed to a slitting tool that the vendor was selling and said, “You need one of those”.  Personally I would have looked at it and passed it by without a second though but when Gary suggests something I usually take heed.  Not knowing exactly what I’d be using it for at the time, I bought it on his recommendation.   Since then, I don’t use it often, but for tasks like forming these ring groves I’ve found it very useful. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/numxjqEsewAdQNalyWHDQEBQhtATHUWV2GynLqXoeC_D2crfv97MVsnclqmArjiYu6QXANflNA5qXw-oUQm4zetoEz3GfmSovZzjxJA9Iiv35sJUlFu-iPJPk6yZhVB40W3wBoIYhw=w2400)


After cutting the work off the blank, I’ve reverse mounted it in the lathe, faced it to the appropriate length, and now I’m cutting the piston skirt.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tMgFrf7rEp_LPkGY3VwubWETdvn6XevQgMz3SBwgVo8Ul5WgdbiE5rtX_kKRM3JGbXY2K3Xu_stqNKWDiaXz9YADnlRXXm96uMZgeVY4eV0tGR4WTbiMqEgfjI7HqNFLf9FDGbJLqg=w2400)


The next task in the procedure was drilling and reaming the receptacle for the wrist pin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/udvwqLtSCMZdXVPO4OMWg9lHoQwNKEB_06n8stagDWErcT9FjuMlgjiQ2ZZ7C32VUr-zJHN9PD_wMtZY65bg2bVmZ8iL80I-zewDmioPSdx6nyokEYkZsAUJ_XKjjCeiLWSlYBI5FA=w2400)


Now that I’ve hollowed out the inside of the piston to accept the head of the connecting rod, I’m drilling and tapping for set screws to retain the wrist pin.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xFKPNQp1QmVqzVBN93qP251Dglt1PHmES3956sJhU-HxRP0BVe5gYI3GbGZ7wOkZczGQmyxWCWhaZsQySl8aEbnsYYU8D86x6Z8KELf4inHIM_j8cfKvT_ueiu2okrzVLRmp6_LPpg=w2400)
 

Finally, the finished piston.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YhvWC_66csKumWbGF03yNMTXWCP2jL1jxW4r3KCpPJJCVNc0sOgd0o4o4girIyV7KK_Vu0wZHA1VWXGeZ75X-E0ULkNjTck_ARVnBpRJugPR5spCt7Q4HMdB1t3jzVyYX9XyCTc3g=w2400)


Next- the connecting rod.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 05, 2018, 10:45:36 PM
I'm going to have to go through this thread. Helical gear cutting is interesting.

What is that tool in the 4th picture? I can't tell if it's a drill, tap, or reamer. (Not because of the pic...it's my inexperience.)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 05, 2018, 11:02:05 PM
It's a ream.  You use one by drilling the hole slightly undersize, then finish to size by the ream.  You use a ream when you want a precision sized, smooth finished hole; like for a wrist pin!  Hope this explains.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 05, 2018, 11:21:35 PM
Thanks. Thought it was but it didn't look like the ones I have. Might be the perspective though.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on April 06, 2018, 01:57:14 AM
I love the Warner tooling Craig. When I was making the half size Rudy's radial engine I used the .015" grooving insert and it worked like a charm. Their boring bar is another nice tool. Usual disclaimers, but a very satisfied customer.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 07, 2018, 01:51:53 AM
I agree Bill, their tooling is superb.  I also bought their 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch boring bars.  Still being a "country bumpkin"  with tooling sometimes I expected the 1/2 inch boring bar to work within a 1/2 inch hole, the 1/4 inch likewise.  I quickly learned, not so, but I now DO have some,excellent duplicate tooling :embarassed:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: AlexS on April 07, 2018, 01:17:26 PM
Nice looking piston Craig. Thanks for sharing the methode to retain the wrist pin with screws. Interesting for a newbie like me.

Alex
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 08, 2018, 11:01:38 PM
Alex.  Thanks but I can’t take credit.  The piston design was on a casting set I built a while ago.  Like you I did like the idea and have replicated it on many of the models I’ve designed.

Also, I give many thanks to Carl, Bill, Alex, and all the rest of you who are faithfully following along with this adventure.  Who knows what lie ahead (a working engine I hope! :cartwheel:)

I’ve been concentrating on the connecting rod and rod bearings.  I didn’t take any photos of the rod construction, pretty straightforward stuff.  I have been known to make rods that were too short :???:, with bearing holes the wrong size :o, and just about everything else you can do wrong concerning a connecting rod :-[; but the connecting rod gods were smiling on me this time and I came up with a serviceable rod :Lol:.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qBIzjXFJLEQy6iN_1r8WeQUj1t9zajBqKqWG8rRu_1rTQZA_sc4lXCBXuueTQGlUk25-ANQVxkXt5_Dy0nHkkkjzhqH7B-aCTUjHdzo2XWsC-Gx806LX2K300eVTw_uwMsPR_OVMXg=w2400)


I thought I might walk you through the way I make the split bearings.  I’m sure others do it this way, but I haven’t found anyone who follows this procedure as of yet.

I first size two pieces of brass or bronze.  I want these to be pretty close to the same size, you’ll see why soon.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9QkkpBXIp15aY3qLS7Wue6FZlTUzmUMkmqq_d1KIrtKtNRKVidlwFvpzdCZyE-C8Bm_I1XRDxsClimb9cp0ongURTtPU8Qwnp12R3nJKsplE9QlXsrwWzC-6VupSccnd3rNAMEDHHA=w2400)


Next, I join them together with a small C-clamp.  I orient them in the vice this way so that they are aligned and parallel side to side with each other.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w3umEcL0uIetLV4ZjakXbkbZ_dHnNfcmBW-jv9HfLBgAWRa7fAncXROUp68uk9jTLZyPOeGX44f_m4vkh6wBSQEpOk9ppVFyWGHrtSN8BUGDR4qMgdHvBkufgnZ2zjwAEF1OAEf0Rw=w2400)
 

Next I locate and drill a centering hole with a center drill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zv7OiBWI_ZmzhsbLgOn1AfAsOZSfVn6HtfdNp7dKIHyp1YvbSoOzAj_sa4UL4bANy1UYKGYVc7vOyk8aETYyYt09FGu6ALsyB6xT73N6dwqyrS9m8xFRWmJDWrjocJwOO_hZrCD86w=w2400)


Moving to the lathe, I mount them in the 4-jaw chuck and center on the centering hole I drilled in the previous step.  As you do this you want to make sure that you have enough stock protruding from the chuck to form and cut off the finished bearing.  I leave the C-clamp on through this operation to help keep the two pieces aligned.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ILt-2Rl07SolemyvdEEkef7-TPSs-hbqgHBo0RGPKoP_RYpQJufmUIoOpc9mr0ZYJ7Djtnx7tCX4fphVPIrWTNfUFbWaVy1W6fCfz0ZoycOD9Tu9g4HfYDxH6zm_dNUgey670VchsA=w2400)


Next I drill out the center of the bearing.  I don’t want this to be the “true size” but rather somewhat smaller so that I can finish the center of the bearing with a ream once the bearing is installed in the connecting rod.  I keep the C-clamp on during the drilling operation because the drill will attempt to spread the two bearing halves and I don’t want that to occur.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TRu-Nt5bZHxAR6paSHuxvU6mDflrltWLEgcWfvVp7ZX01SAAzmEBXUpe3zCzlcb8HY13BuywQK9pjkr5RxdqC2rq36n8_cFexej3jPzTquSoBjHeOK35Px0kdMpc93GlTCdxEBk8NA=w2400)
 

Now I remove the clamp and face the two pieces.  This operation is forming one of the bearing outside faces.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/USexlcQREGVfxR80j4eqDfwIXoekMc8p9dr8KFZC6PusYavQLKtXsx9GTkBT54qX9gNOVDjFIs_i9tVCRhUcTIzsUMWGx7kQh6AupZRTW0HLOnNLjdtrylNmelR1506Ie4sc2oCxBA=w2400)


Next I want to turn the assembly down to the larger outside diameter of the bearing.  This bearing will have a shoulder on each side of the connecting rod so this is the outside diameter of the shoulders.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rROzjmAAGzJHx3-oCQqe5fZfv9MaV9BNE2XcToT7jC02GVFsgZS2iXTMvFROWT0dfrP1E8Qa73jmMmbK9Lfs3Kuntk-hbnTh99fVuXxbZ8vChf0rVZVUP355yTOCpJBQW00uPjTmCg=w2400)


Here I’ve finished the above operation and I have a cylinder with a diameter of the bearing shoulder OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_n1zARnkIL6wV16XpdyB-TVCOZkgZQnxIWb2y2T5iGROXdFljYVgwe0sHogR-82RM9-bE9qpifDo60svPPauE-OkD9eWR-xtFs52YwC0QQGJnqgYpMLhL4LtppReZ_9-xDKzeIff4A=w2400)



Now I use a parting tool, ground flat on the end to form the OD of the bearing that will bear against the hole in the connecting rod.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RwclduZk5qLpkhr8Oshh-8sE8qXX-CCYlC_r8smLVvQuWFiRoXGRr_B_MXHZyTHgUCXDBQ7OQky8rPg4xo6f6XtYhnysDl5vilaAi3We8o9-Ipn_Y8CtNVH68WYJ7b1zUhoTeDhEyw=w2400)


Another view of forming this inside (between shoulder) OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nhg0gwL-3xQKkrlrH5dkJ1_6caBTa_c-HCz00qsj1DbMdb9-my4bnxk02qmWysPFerNC5FYQdy4AIaP7567YiAjqV-nj3isJ0DzzLOuiPvNW5laHhmQereMTZgaimjXuecexMBCEDw=w2400)


When you start getting the diameter when you think it should be, you can “trial fit” the connecting rod.  I like a snug fit where the screws need to draw the connecting rod cap up against its seat and close the gap between the two halves of the connecting rod.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nbgcpFJZjqDfS02hXUNMHDtCEmm7D8QBTeGbwVx2IwCPPJRPs_qHMN1wJiK7BLOTOL7VPLa7vLZYJqAtcyBbOaq4CgFraSrAjVwq-OVKJ7Z6QR3WDCpCUg333B7dAq4fHvDkBtntOg=w2400)


Once you’re happy with the fit you can part off the finished bearing.  Before you do that make sure to mark one end of the bearing halves so that they are always re-assembled in the same manner as they were fabricated.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1Ep0jt_Om_IPsm5glHcpZuA4FeWZQT9Z232_3yv-KOjousypAKKs4QQey_frTZmb0bnZxXqz-Hl1E0YPyxpc-Am2zrUnFPL66OzOSzhuJ0o6PBnm1BXOVcgvHLQC6gEwk1uRjPcL6Q=w2400)


A view of the connecting rod assembled with the split bearing.  We’re not done yet however.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jKjU_bvT4PM9x4ah28zW9OixSKK4zOqw00dsJtOFBYLGuEyncYsYgVGMdjRBTxnEPTMGgwmHzV_4PJJhslSYezELIMLx5Bo0HjOJ5KVEfqzQy0EdywtY3Fh0sB9zUnglou6jtrU7Gw=w2400)


One final task is to ream the bearing to the correct crankshaft journal diameter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dPb65T2OMWfrIMbyJnBr5xkktX6ea-18WRh5KmNwV3Zw8C6wdhXd8_v7JywojTjxTZE2YdWT9w9Pc3ypnngWzrBG4sZ1G40s3S6Nw0d2irezfusDKAmwhwdyjLbcoD21hVCbeeP-Sg=w2400)



Mixed in with this, but not shown is a simple bearing for the wrist pin that I made on the lathe and then press into place.  I also wait to final size this bearing ID until it is installed in the connecting rod.

Now that I have a connecting rod, wrist pin, and piston (but no piston rings yet); it’s time to assemble the engine and make sure everything turns round and round and goes up and down without binding or something hitting.  That was not the immediate case.  I had a slight contact between the connecting rod and a spot on the block.  I reached into the block with an extended end mill and cut away the offending bit and everything was fine after that. :whoohoo:  Here’s a video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXic-cxIA24
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 08, 2018, 11:29:12 PM
Nice tutorial Craig. You are getting close to the exciting part of engine building.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on April 08, 2018, 11:39:49 PM
Craig,
Thanks for that tip on split bearings. My Upshur didn't use bearings just the bare aluminum on the crank. I think I will make a replacement one of these days.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on April 09, 2018, 12:58:06 AM
Looks great Craig!  Hope you will bring it alone next weekend to the show.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 09, 2018, 12:58:14 AM
Who knows what lie ahead (a working engine I hope! :cartwheel:)

A working engine no doubt. As to "who knows what lie ahead"...that's the adventure and fun. The road is the fun part. The destination is always there...and then it's done. It's the forks that provide adventure.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 09, 2018, 10:42:07 PM
Brian- still many things to do before we can see if this thing comes to life, but yes- the first run attempt is looming just over the horizon.  :whoohoo:

Art and Bill, thanks for your participation.  Yep Bill, I’ll be bringing this along to the show.
 :ThumbsUp:

Zee- yep, the real fun is in the voyage.  Once it’s done and running, I’ll just set it on the shelf and find something else to do. :)
BTW- I grew up in West Chester, Pa.  Spent half my life there, went to Henderson High.  Left for the sunny south in the late 1970’s.  Small world, huh ?  :cheers: 

A rather lengthy diatribe today again, this time the topic is piston rings.  My understanding is that there are two basic ways of making these things.  One employs heating the ring to form it to the correct shape.  I have no experience with that technique, though I know some folks use it with good results.  I use the cold forming technique.  I made my first piston ring this way many years ago for my live steam locomotive, and it’s been running without incident for years so I figure, stick with what you know and what works for you. 

I’ve read other posts where this technique was used.  I thought I might give you the blow-by-blow for your comment, or … whatever (as the kids say). :headscratch:

I rummaged around in my stock and found another of these cored cast iron castings and I might as well use it since it’s already cored and is of a convenient size.  All I’m trying to do with these first steps is make some ring cores to begin the operation.

First I’m facing off the piece.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3HbLwtutQrn6AXW8MUiBy8Mqy_Z9kyTHNYnkqQqQ3OlzwB_V0rqBRm08R5nRFTe_NUALIyYJ0RpP0RzFxq334HsxrGGKdBPuryH0oxfvOvAzl7Vx0IxpRmz7BG4SUsSUVbnmFTR87Q=w2400)


Next I’m boring to the required inside ring diameter.  This is a larger ID than the bottom of the ring grove because I’m going to cut the ring gap and then collapse the ring, thus closing this diameter. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y_z0s7PNVbnDY8-ya-1eVnZK4YTWSAIE1sSBTjpbkjBbp9m9lq0unYi0lkMjbBTELeMeVD6-0eS-4VfGlDgtkWbq0cmUi2tQtgG93ULbQmyjtcdZ6ks5zo_vWNubAasL7YeujHHsxA=w2400)


With the inside diameter sized, I’m now concentrating on the outside diameter.  Again, this is not the bore of the cylinder.  When I cut the ring grove this diameter will collapse.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4UQwxq15y8f1NUWChv4b_SZdVdJQsaTGmTq5kM_ezMC0VaAdl4I4Ku8gpovwi7IMX10WmCmNqpFEMhmiFvKS-xDE149h1uPbWTBGodgOXqUViWkb5tl7TS_GX49jB2t1nSgX8ldF_w=w2400)


With an acceptable ID and OD it’s time to part the ring blanks off the piece.  I cut these a bit thicker than required and then size the width in a further step.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vBZxkrWxfqbwKZ0hMYuHyEyaRgA0if1_avRkHIBDUPqRp9zPltc-0cBVayLrZ7CYNrnGcQG9zwHZ2ns82opTawdXHQ78N0H_BD5QtfHCB8O_IwYXerdRr0KeOJkQE4D9906-2sPKAA=w2400)


Here I show the ring blanks.  They’re quite a bit thicker than the finished rings.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/il2LwpnVsiSlXX7nsfz2RHfyCU1Y6RiQC7ehYKxk40vC1OK2xEHEEQE6eTwe0zM9WxJv2DMVRoEg4Hv__mfVF_Xvmd3KyEox_0-Z3cjf1f1veODZCcM56vIPZ_fE_txL9b9ZmzTq0Q=w2400)


For models of this size I use an eighth inch gap.  As the ring is formed, the material fatigues and this gap shrinks but from experience it seems to be acceptable.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dQyGzseTwsbKF6P60RQBwlMu4QyAEqiUD-e0iX_h7QYfSo6noT5yyCHFRJ1elwZt3eH5nHihoUM7kUiqO8H-lYDFnS4VlMgZs54E5wK-6vWacvYuv4rc7sm-_v6KaHqLwnVPgVMf-g=w2400)


You’d think the rings are done now but the problem is that the nice round blank becomes not so round when the ring gap is closed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cg0K-HPCsuBu7mSkj0Oh8UGjrPEgITyja8x21An2qQ4OGp0CoDV_3GHR0sTqz2_hxtlkVf4uNm3hFphggxdwcA0URicza_vYIRAz4SNhLTIKN0ekTTen4qlA6tLiaYZEYR3Yf5hMRA=w2400)


The following procedure corrects that problem. 
To do this two fixtures need to be made.  One fixture is used to assist in turning the ring OD to the correct diameter and the other to turn the ring ID to the correct diameter and also to face the rings to the correct width.
The first fixture is an arbor with a lip cut shallower than the width of the ring but with a shoulder of the diameter where the compressed ring blank just fits loosely (but not sloppy loose).  A thick washer is drawn down against the ring to hold it in place.  This is a view of the arbor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Byz81CZqZnnl2wbx06Voib77UR6q77hJaxvImgd9dFo_1fqxeA9-gF3hrFuRwBlq38kwH_vdMNsE8QWRAG7QdnFvZhqQMEmxj35enDdIKmvwTyWhYLK2ycIdN-2AGSsQLqxwTZr1Iw=w2400)
 

The ring blank is installed by compressing the ring (removing the ring gap) with a radiator clamp, and then drawing the washer tightly against the ring blank, holding it closed and in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GuuM1RQh5h4hFJ5kxrYD9qeA2inWJB-YNj-9bQT1rawMmbJeo29pty8vDSZnys4UdXDnhjlcSZn1hT2GPq_nop92CuV2BvMt5o2EY3yOkDvU0kU5pTCPIGXlr9nOo04gPM2qkpDp8w=w2400)


Once this is done the radiator clamp can be removed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zPJ406n8BAVNgU8W_BF-crfhx5Gx_AuvtB15hkIiDuS6Vsn3dN2-m8tynvsWlVlcmbAw2rU1Qn2-E-65bOhaElvLhpt_2IW9Sl2-hoZEJ-u7-OsTpBdbXxTq_oP5CxvmvtWxFG8Org=w2400)


The ring outside diameter is then formed by standard turning.  A rather fuzzy picture of this completed operation.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/csM8nJ79TMrP2sv-QthT-cfhE5-OZEA0aXxifyYwzlo8rERe3ppWXwg8lqhPj5wg60RnWcQD5YY1PovHt3m8a4JVpFYvEB8JD59W87nTl81ZJ1-XV_ZOYLf3BZL7D1GyJs64Y3PXIQ=w2400)
 

At this point I usually remove the ring blank from the arbor and give it a trial fit in the bore.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xo_9K0keNx01ew8Ddlx6Rh4zFHeoXh4jEK5HXGD1eo9QPvqe3O-q0_3TiBMVzlIrK95zzKjTWaFWRmnsnM1Z_Nz1W-QGt0OL3-T8zbiTxh8_XkJxJSn8vcJBbG_caFbI4TVBlpEmog=w2400)


With the ring outside diameter sized correctly, it’s now time to start on the ring inside diameter and width.  For this operation, you need to fabricate the second fixture which is pictured here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qbXH2cNt8wFMIjnBVFHaAHGNlLsfG9PmMqH-3_smf-urBUFbj9xkTcaE7y8Vv9NGZ0_IyXJ6vgA4t7wxomdYf0P7JCpgw7_i7ueCslLooW7nzTrqYJIq2DUBmgfvMPb0tlcPKXOpGA=w2400)


The fixture has a shoulder cut into the end to accept the ring outside diameter.  This shoulder is sized so that the ring gap is collapsed when the ring is inserted.  The shoulder is also several thousandths thinner than the ring width so the ring can be faced to the correct width.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gOlRJTJmilo_jy68xVmrIj8rJSeBJFK7pciJkUd65h0njH_wx-CtCka-UA8skpMtSipoCimnYvNKHab2DIILrJ2SyXRflhUL7Rh4IHBHT74PEWMSJ8tWEJ0eWEPWoOuQgDzIeX_c4g=w2400)
 

Here is a view of the fixture with the ring inserted in place.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/61VYHyYDRZavdRboDcZQM7YW8_xQGZ44wGNWnQZshHpPiqlepZEtHy0eMv0hqbOvgkHD8uBhkIXRIAhd9SZZJ1ormIhs9v3kpfLG-fISLzoobCJYGJBuw_EQ_1BrXu_3yCaoFjJ-pw=w2400)


The fixture is inserted in the 3-jaw chuck (with the slit in the fixture positioned on a chuck jaw) and tightened, clamping the ring blank in place.  A boring bar can then be used to form the ring inside diameter to a circle of the correct diameter for the piston groove diameter.  Once this is done, a facing operation sizes the ring to the correct width.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/801xo5RhcJXAzI0YDNukxjQkWWHJvP6gYWpl76NbGdYFEs2sBNUg6qOaGVAd01-g9jgRJ5WdXIQeZtqK06eupUIIg9RDwwhfTmKO6DzWkYS1OlBm9Zi9MHdz981ILrxQbDClRVoSyQ=w2400)


Finally, the piston with rings installed.  I usually make a few extra blanks because this is fine work and you can lose a few during the fabrication steps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5skAZuOlB1uHn6IExLpsZlT5BRdJAScu8qJPaZeBvIVgZgcpaYoit2gOLAbUjSlx-by9AmOzv-4c0Omn0oizGs7gmJnRLDCM-DB8_87fjZ6Jjl_lZPy1wGrKBtgjUNdNxGTaCKssdw=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 09, 2018, 11:38:15 PM
Fantastic post. This made me feel a whole lot better about making rings when my time comes.  :ThumbsUp:

Small world, huh ?  :cheers: 

I'll say. We were living in Illinois some 35 years ago and lost touch with a friend.
Moved out here 23 years ago.
Then 10 years ago found out our friend was only 6 miles away and had been here the whole time.

Or, after moving from France, to Germany, to the US...playing chess with a guy and finding out we were in the same Cub Scout troop in France.

It's a small world indeed. That's probably the greatest thing I like about forums and social media...people half-way across the world are neighbors across the street.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on April 10, 2018, 12:10:46 AM
A three jaw “ring collet”; really smart thinking  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Cletus
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on April 10, 2018, 12:36:30 AM
Hi Craig

Nice write up on your ring making process.
Thanks for posting it.

Daev
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Hugh Currin on April 10, 2018, 01:09:30 AM
Craig:

Thanks for posting details on this method of making rings. I've used the "Trimble" method for this, which includes heat treating the rings. But I've not before heard of this method. It seems simpler and should work well.

Thanks.

Hugh
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 10, 2018, 01:49:18 AM
Craig--I have been a total failure at making cast iron rings that seal. I haven't tried the method you have outlined, so if I ever set out to make another i.c. engine I will hunt down this post and try your method. Thank you for the good "how to" post.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on April 10, 2018, 09:17:22 AM
Still following along with interest  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:  I have always soldered the halves of my split bearings together before machining. Do you have problems with the two halves moving?
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 10, 2018, 11:59:44 PM
Carl, Cletus, Dave, Hugh, Brian, Roger; thanks for your responses.  Roger; the 4-jaw chuck holds the pieces firmly.  I usually allow as much material in the chuck as outside.  I’ve never had a problem with the material shifting in the chuck.  I did have a problem with the drilling operation spreading the pieces but after I started using a C-clamp to hold them together this hasn’t been a problem.  Once you start turning the two pieces it’s difficult to see the line where they meet.  I do take great care to make sure the two mating surfaces are smooth and flat before joining them together.

I didn’t devise this technique.  Years ago, and error required me to bore one of my locomotive cylinders over size, resulting in the purchased piston ring being too small.  Trying to salvage the casting and this bad situation, I came across this technique in a book describing the construction of model steam locomotive rings.  I’ve found it works as well with the IC engines I’ve built.

With this interest I might need to fill in a few additional details; firstly, how to appropriately sizing the cylinder that forms the ring blanks so that you have enough “meat” to turn the ID and OD of the rings round.  I’ll do this by example of this engine.

I figure the OD as follows: my bore is 1.125.  1.125 * pi (3.14)= 3.533, the circumference of the engine bore and outside circumference of the compressed ring.  Add the ring gap, in this case .125= 3.658, now divide by pi 3.658/3.14= 1.161.  This is the diameter of the ring blank with the ring gap still in place.  This is the minimum diameter for the outside diameter of the ring blank but you need to add a few thousandths of an inch so that you have material available to get the ring blank (once the gap material is removed and the ring is compressed) back to round.  Around .030 inch ought to do, so the final OD of the cylinder used to form the ring blanks is 1.161 + .030= 1.191

The ID is calculated in much the same way.  The diameter of my ring grove is 0.967.  You need a little spacing between the ring and the grove; I used 0.020 so this gave an inside ring diameter of 0.987 with a circumference of 0.987 * pi (3.14)= 3.099.  Once again add in the ring gap 3.099 + 0.125= 3.224, and divide by pi (3.14)= 1.027.  This is the maximum diameter for the inside of the ring blank.  Again you need additional material to get the ring round so this time, reduce the inside diameter by around 0.030 thousandths.  This gives an inside diameter of 1.027 – 0.030= 0.997.

To summarize, the hollow cylinder used to form the ring blanks should have an inside diameter of around 0.997 and an outside diameter of around 1.191.  This should provide enough material to allow formation of round surfaces on both the inside and outside of the ring.  Of course, with different diameter pistons, different sized ring groves, and different ring gaps; all these number will change but I hope you can get the principal from this example.
 
I will also encourage you, when you form the outside diameter of the ring, to turn the ring OD to within a thousandth or two of the final diameter, and then finish with a fine file and emery paper.  The smoother you can get the outside surface of the ring, the less time that will be required for the ring to wear in and seat.  In reality, you need to turn the ring OD slightly undersized so that the ring gap doesn’t entirely close when installed.  Remember that for each thousandth lost in diameter, the circumference is reduced by pi.
 
After I install the rings and check for binding and am satisfied that everything is ok, I usually chuck the crankshaft in my lathe, support the engine base on the ways, and spin the engine for as much as ½ hour at around 200 rpm.  While I’m doing this I load the cylinder with oil (for these vertical engines I just keep the top of the piston covered).  This helps to “run in” the rings and helps with initial compression.

With these rings, my engines have little compression when they are first started.  For the first few runs I need to load the cylinder with oil to help with the compression, so they smoke like crazy.  After they’ve run for a while and the rings finally seat, the compression improves dramatically.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 11, 2018, 01:40:14 PM
... I’m sure you’ve shown, but, how will this one be started?... Cletus

Looks like I omitted answering this question, sorry Cletus.  I have a 12 Volt model airplane starter I use to crank my other Lauson models.  I'll probably use it for this one, using a sewing machine belt to a pulley on the PTO side of the crankshaft.  I'm HOPING that I can use the kick-start mechanism once it's run a bit and has some compression.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 20, 2018, 12:25:42 AM
Work has continued this week, though I haven’t taken too many “in process” pictures.  I’ve fabricated the crankcase breather and the governor cap as seen in the picture below.  A little filler before paint and I’m thinking everything will blend quite well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tAjNQ6VBY8yijyX7M7bQHcsRPKM_UZASdipJPio5aj0IyYBEB9Kz0_IdND2X88mErdjnsNYgc196oECBEDgBCJ1kHEqJxqoxj29c9SkrlzDBw8xRQtfl_kpoIf22tR3ded9uB9gegw=w2400) 


Today I started working on the head.  Here I’m using my rotary milling head to cut the half-circle on the PTO side of the engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K7P7PWgKmzqgc9Qtk3Nsf1AKuXAEHClM5yljLU3VHIh8OfjGAN9OXEAbV1DS3ROtGeY28rZxhOV6_wf0xglvTkSS6We49tLy5TmZX11wdtHzPQUMCIdLOeG3k2a62nwmk8yJYbjGWw=w2400) 


Here I’m starting on the cooling fins.  I’m cutting these to nearly a ½ inch depth, so numerous passes will be required.   Fortunately my mill has a x-axis power feed, but I still need to keep flooding the end mill with fluid, lest the aluminum shavings bind to it and it shatters. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y4z9gd_rtfbvMAixKNbYbdyItEktnwt01HwmWeyP21RpCM-rNMcMUaIwBXxZOqs50UPn5aZREweyWRXfYxw15U2wB_k-S-QxDFTEZWOr63ApsHyHzyyCFSKdYR0XfCqBV6NknnHhew=w2400) 
 

Earlier in the week I was working on some of the internals of the governor.  This is a lever that fits inside the governor cap (a photo further on).  It converts the linear motion of the governor spindle to rotary motion so it can be carried outside the governor cap where an attached lever, though a pushrod, can move the carburetor throttle. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7Ai6ftUO9CQVjXdByyfZGYqxFtbs20ko79WLIAWU9rggim7MneNiVESFFMFZ8GaJ7OCRYUg1Ju84cN_PVHvOD5wAAWvzhLMHbPDDdYu_k9-8xEgzBsNX2YRrWQZCNjWmF5A-aVx4nA=w2400) 


Another picture of the same part, but complete and being cut off the base stock.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YcYAj83JeqgzUtSp8wQUfvfg_DakCcQ-2FhrlX8DWqqELgW_VtJqIMYEbh5Cln3WwOqwJzEd85CNm8nxlJhxqnqp_7y-9tZ9Kp8_-H5UXWU1Uz2yFutUmDurmRqh0Z8MML3tC9Gzw=w2400) 


Here is a picture of the above lever, fitted to the governor cap and with the governor spindle installed as it would be on the engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t0unnY006R2cEPd5czk1YMENveOKQcv-qWms7qXYIsjfGNAWNCevzeytcmB2KY2WRBgVDlXkRXJqgZ4Tig66TJPLOczJ7AmFOYK6z3-01zuJ8h8F8L87LSusLLeF9Eiw9Dsh5cD4bg=w2400) 


Here I give you a photo of the governor spindle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rit1NukVrINfARvGD0eKGeQ3-FEvIf9lhkbx5u8bdJ-b9UzTl3YHrPQYUdeVbPaM_DT21OE_dSvk9FBUT_NQ6B8SfuGzKo6PzfL40rdbK2FsklscTtp-wGVDwXfkQNSjOcV4jCYaLg=w2400) 


This is a photo of the flyweights inside the governor cylinder at the rear of the engine.  When the engine is assembles, this is covered by the governor cap.  If you look very closely you might see the arms attached to the flyweights that push the governor spindle out into the governor cap.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xu-F1yFf7UBk4NTOeMCS-oHPZpB7UqOrAy117BcSH7fY0ksD-ACU4Yf3O9B1EunZkq9wE29EKV2iZa0ByxlD6J5aeA5a-fUycjHy25NqrCrzbn6imAGy1Wh32yZ8iFn3-HrTlyMF4A=w2400) 
 
This photo is the same as above, but with the governor spindle removed from the governor cap and installed against the flyweights.  From these photos you can probably get an idea how this governor works.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uhACLlLDSaFG8zZ4MqNs1c_6UkcXFuXxdO7TNrHFoKyBC1mBG18baUWabBujx7Mv9lz1N8l-lJJQXLS4DDqLSGaRnllgJ9eonUWSpuu7x06_VkgxYDU6xbRo75Pxkk9vVo0IAu508w=w2400) 


Now for my dilemma.  If you look three photos back at the photo of the governor spindle (above the quarter) you will notice that it is one solid piece.  On the full size, the left disk (the one that bears against the governor flyweights) is a ball bearing so that, as the flyweights are spinning, they revolve against the bearing and the governor spindle does no rotate.  On the model, with this as one piece, I’m going to have a lot of wear in this area; the portions of the flyweight that bear against the spindle are quite small and will be moving relatively fast .  During the design, I didn’t think this would be an issue but now that the parts are made I’m having second thoughts.

I’ve re-designed rthe end of the governor spool as a rotating end but, man, the parts are SMALL!  Any other ideas out there?  :help:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 20, 2018, 01:36:20 AM
Craig--If the parts are riding in an oil bath, make the two parts that bear against each other from o1 steel and harden them. I had always been taught never to let similar metals rub against each other for fear of galling, but when I worked for Volkswagen of Canada it was common practice to do that on many of the automated machines I designed. It worked, and worked very well. This may not be an option if the parts are already made.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 20, 2018, 03:30:36 AM
That is an excellent idea Brian.  I wonder if kasenit would suffice, the parts are 1018 cold roll.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 20, 2018, 01:32:44 PM
Yes it can be hardened--maybe. Read all about it here.
http://www.steelforge.com/aisi-1018/
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 23, 2018, 11:29:14 PM
Progress continued with fabrication of the cylinder head.  The detail on this piece, for the most part, will be covered by sheet metal; but if you’re making a model you might as well model even the stuff you can’t really see.  I also started on the oil pump, more on that later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j-emUXHicLKf1POclg7HJF9mX-K30sP3FMuFcp1WetNqylLnPTh5umpEP7C0JnQ8B-MRwbtiS603fr1za0egt6IPv4s1WId60fz8TAo6BrceoIphpMIkSkNLwUCQZDldAaCj1Arpgg=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t5HXpmpXaVXRTGXLSOFG0n-b0Zu9N4tMifn9q2tXEvKEm-TB-exrLIU57avgoa7Nh_XCYhcwBjAwTEXXQMLEytMU5_XQB8Sv0UnqAM2HV1ifowG_3kzO44fQY8srmG1Q1CJzl6qVoA=w2400)


The “real” progress these last few days however has been on the governor spindle.  I took Brian’s suggestion and hardened the ‘levers’ on the governor weights.  I don’t believe this is the definitive solution but it can’t hurt.   
I finally settled on a solution that is, pretty much, a scale version of the ball bearing end to the full size governor spindle.  These parts are pretty small and I’m amazed that with my limited talents, I was able to successfully fabricate things this small.  The photo below show the complete assembly.  The green arrow points to the “levers” on the governor weights that bear against the governor spindle.  The red arrow points to the bearing end of the governor spindle.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XSgtCJdQLgo2bekrnyOuydtaDZ9CiLoABhldlaJeetOxpC4E6qwzS2vCI4U6zxwECqV-fdf00KxznPCoYc4s_8F3rwVzL6OJ4IR02IJDTBcuAKKSA1nSo9JHbQC4bjIIWB_cPnapJQ=w2400)


These next three photos are exploded, and then assembled 3-D cad drawings of the revised governor spindle. 
The governor spindle has been revised so that it captures 1/16 in. diameter ball bearings in a bearing race (the orange part).  Running on the ball bearings is a rotor (brown part) and a cap (green part) fitted over the rotor, capturing the rotor with a thin lip.  The cap fits onto the orange part with a press fit.  This results is a rotor that turns freely on the ball bearings and is the contact surface for the governor weight levers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XtKQIGNotB4K-wtr9J9_we9kk2e4GxNI1kMUIItPKAMTIvPcTof97E_Pi5huDNBv4_wYnVFfL-saqEoUwBenPVyS2rLs3cBms9FDVFm0FvaEdX5NzWvp9iqIPiyieuyEMCqxy2m7Kw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wT2uMxPM_6xExchTGCeuQ8QH5MxjDLW6_GaMofrv1Jp7iwGd_-_1fBZDAdBhFh8b6Fm53q3yhyWsJFv2mmtQaedfGpLFdStOdVJiMH-d_B7SsoVBSncfokEsjR1bp0tXdVwkFfdcJA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QLhZGS8A5R1GwvsQ0cI413L0JP3G1RY3fmqxsaxBzfszXPAgympnWNSvHcVmxzVq5cJWYQc8XHUg-o_o9JAqVPLO-5h6NqsrSiqnllUtGxsSQtmx2w8dxppWkXCUIgpcQguVz7hOIw=w2400)


With the governor spindle assembled with the governor weight assembly; the weights spin freely while the spindle remains stationary, hurrah.  :pinkelephant:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 23, 2018, 11:42:04 PM
Great stuff Craig. I really enjoy seeing your project come together. There is a lot of quality work there.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on April 24, 2018, 12:38:29 AM
Nice progress Craig, I like what you came up with on the governor bearing.

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on April 24, 2018, 12:49:32 AM
Coming along well Craig!! That cylinder head looks fantastic.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 25, 2018, 08:57:16 PM
Many thanks to Brian, Dave, and Bill for your encouragement and kind responses.  Also, thanks to the others who are silently following along.

My 3-D CAD program is marvelous; I wouldn’t want to do without it. With all the positives though there are a few drawbacks.  One of the annoying “features” is that it is perfectly willing to break the laws of physics and allow two objects to occupy the same space at the same time.  This can be a blessing at times, but also a curse.

When I went to install my newly fabricated oil pump and dipper trough in this engine, much to my chagrin, I found that in the real world two physical objects CAN NOT occupy then same space at the same time.  A quick reference back to the CAD assembly clearly showed the dipper pan I had designed entering the side of the block and disappearing on BOTH sides.  Had I been observant, I’d have seen this and revised the dipper trough BEFORE I fabricated it.  Not a terrible big deal, but a few hours wasted due to carelessness that didn’t need to be.  With the revised dipper trough here you see a photo of the oil pump and dipper trough installed in the oil sump.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uahlEKtQFRAMYphH4MKlbGwFSVmo120w1RYlrAmO7Mj0GQnkoz8H1Iz7KQq8KnOHnqq25vSr3i6roBnZZP_nXInNMizeB8Xh_GoCR9XxR-pXiXG6S9zjrDyB3QpzzCHcl7NePZ5HaA=w2400)


With the revised dipper trough the oil pump fit nicely into the engine.  The clearances were tight and I did need to shave a bit of the block away at a few places to get the clearance and free space I needed but this wasn’t a huge surprise and the interference was minimal.  I WAS happy to see the oil pump plunger make positive contact on the eccentric on the cam shaft and effectively drive the oil pump.  Here you see a video, looking into the block as I rotate the camshaft and drive the oil pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3nssNXVxG4


At this stage I’m pretty happy.  I’ve verified that the connecting rod will skim across the surface of the oil in the dipper trough, splashing a bit of oil around to lubricate the engine internals; and everything moves freely as it should without anything hitting and with no binding.  You expect all this of course, but it’s nice to see that you didn’t make some dumb arithmetic error or omission that results in unforeseen problems.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 25, 2018, 10:11:42 PM
What 3D Cad are you using?
I've not done any such analysis (I have very simple models) but under my 'Viewing and Analysis', I have a selection for 'Interferences.
My program is Cubify Design. I bought it for $99 back in 2014.

Hm. I just tried it. Not sure it's very good. Had two interferences, move the model, then had one. Shown as 'volume' but did highlight the area.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 26, 2018, 12:46:08 AM
Small world ( but then what should I expect from another West Chesteronian).  I'm using cubify design also- paid slightly more for my copy but not much more.  I'll have to look into the 'interferences'.  This is a rich product and though I've spent hours with it I feel I've just scratched the surface.

BTW- you're making great progress on your model.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on April 30, 2018, 09:59:15 PM
I’m a big believer in sharing my successes :cartwheel:, as well as my failures :facepalm2:; I think it keeps me honest :LittleAngel:.

In reality, I should have stayed down at the Railroad another day :old: (see my recent post in the shows section of this site) ; today was a wasted day… I almost ended the day further behind than when I started. :rant:

This morning I started on a bracket that holds the magneto to the magneto plate.  A few days ago, a survey of my inventory produced the ONLY piece of steel in my possession from which this part could be fabricated.   I made a mental note “not to screw-up”. :stickpoke:   

This piece isn’t the hardest thing I’ve attempted making, but you can make bone-head mistakes on the simplest piece.  :hammerbash:  After spending the better part of the day reducing the above mentioned block of steel to what you see in photo 1 below, I read my drawing wrong :happyreader: and sliced too much material off the bottom of the piece, :toilet_claw: reducing five hours or work to another worthy candidate for my scrap bin. :zap: 

With the clock approaching 5 PM, I drove the few miles to the metal distributer here in south Raleigh and to my relief they had a piece :ThumbsUp: (actually several pieces) of 1 ½ in. square hot roll.  I hadn’t the heart to ask for a two inch piece O:-) (and with my preset luck I might need more anyway) :LittleDevil: so I acquired two feet. :mischief:

Returning home, I cut off a two inch section so that I’m all ready for “attempt 2” tomorrow. :rant:  We’ll see how it goes.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on April 30, 2018, 10:05:54 PM
There is only one thing worse than misreading a drawing and screwing up a part. That is when you misread a drawing you made  YOURSELF and screw up the part. Been there. Done that. Have a number of tee shirts.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 30, 2018, 10:19:30 PM
Bummer on the part.

Tomorrow will be success!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on April 30, 2018, 11:28:08 PM
It happens to all of us sooner or later, usually the 2nd and 3rd attempt go a little quicker. :wallbang:

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on May 01, 2018, 12:53:55 AM
Well the day isn't a total loss Craig...you have a nice supplu of 1.5" square hot rolled now. Bummer on the part though but we've all done it, and I am quite sure I will again!

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: 10KPete on May 01, 2018, 07:12:16 AM
I don't know how many time I've cut on the wrong side of the line. I must have a dyslexic lathe..... :hammerbash:

Pete
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 03, 2018, 07:16:53 PM
Can’t agree with you more Brian, misreading your own drawing is a real bummer :-[… BTW- you can get a T-Shirt? :o  I need to look into that, :ThumbsUp: I could have a whole new wardrobe in no time at all. :ROFL:

Carl, Dave, Bill, Pete: thanks for your heart felt commiseration.  In reality though, I stopped getting terribly pissed off with these kinds of errors a while back.  Being retired- :old: what else do I have to do but make the part again?

Two and a half days later (one to get back to where I was before the illustrious blunder and one and a half to finish the part) I’m ready to move on to the next task.  During the re-do, I decided to document the steps, seeing that this part is fairly complicated.

Here I’ve taken the two inch piece I cut off in the last post and am drilling a hole in the center.  I’m just trying to make some room for my boring bar to make a precision opening in the piece.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oJ-aqD_wxPTlEPNa6v-Mt-d009SFZ1RwinPnQxv9YMGL8MxN3naToU5hok4eNixLn8X7qKzJA_Ae5Ul8QyYvQVSqKj3LbzxF3bt63_dVeoWGo372t2UCMUEDieGLHtfn4WEKInQSYQ=w2400)



Before I bore the hole to the correct size I’m facing the piece to get a good flat surface from which to work.  Maybe I’m crazy to do this now (as opposed to before I drilled the hole), but the drilling “might” shift the piece a tad in the chuck and I want this face to be exactly perpendicular to the hole I’ll finish with my boring bar.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TRyEqJvnqItkV4LRfzJml0JhK7UwVJjfY6nsvLLY0BDNrjXrxBbOKa-bJZGSeHy1OAfMMTPlJ5dpCjl8B-2xlkLmivPtH5f5ihQ8_IFoCA-2M3RIyeeJStFiAtKM3IutGtLDml7ySw=w2400)


Now on to boring the hole to size.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9RYthl-9EPIEcCj4J5Xh9fP0LosIhRWxT5AECbJJeHkkHDLL5ATUvodNZyaXp5-c8qGrIT6ne0TSck-oN7BXWHvDcxsl3Q43SsQvBFscInXzbizO6EN1STUreH4QSdrlowmOEPHiNg=w2400)


With the interior diameter established it’s time to start working on the outside diameter.  Here I’m just starting to work this piece down to the correct OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L1xlFe1-C3hYA4SIjJRXS1_bPoSWwZ_Wo0RD0wefl280howx7eC0T7PXw4XzOfoMll5bxam2Ku3ocbO6cASp48-RpJ7K3OcLe7f1QS8gGrDKDMTfjm9YXdgFPjizY_UBwjo8Z0aNJA=w2400)


And here, after many, many passes; the correct OD is established.  This is a critical measurement since a large brass collar, acting as a bearing, rides on this OD.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MGuFt-FMR-FVHGXUNWhv14z458R6r9CM2WXvJdUNB3a18t95LqPnjcpCuEAMiWZF071l5wXXjq7mzskuFMxXDNPl81A1Hx83Pgdj7UVr-TAUxUbqYhMRdopdKJlcDuCmSyq08D_k8A=w2400)


With the lathe work done it’s time to move to the mill.  Now that I don’t need the thickness to hold the piece in the 4-jaw chuck any longer, I’m removing material from the opposite side, reducing the thickness of the piece to the desired width.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v9Ky2nGySSkX5VmuYB9zSxua15xgnrshWpYMMSGxyh6jvQBZ0R6-hsSQe70fMKy1gTt-tXOFtYJ7r_9ahvSevzPzE6LnG4xTD3jXK3aVo2dMshVXdQAiU-at13vBFdXYmbLW09GmQw=w2400)
 

Now’s the time to drill and tap the alignment and magneto plate mounting holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6ThXVuDgA6muZHFj2bN7fzRm8klMEnqDC2WTD9KffjxUs8bEq0vo-zE8MjcP6eRZgYMYd4Tte_mvi09ifVR4QwyhwEpSQEB5QAPdcAFOYe0Czss1S55vfdUxjhvMmnkm79_4Nr6UxA=w2400)


The back of this piece will become a clamping collar, used to hold the magneto to the engine block.  Here I’m using my rotary milling head to begin shaping the collar.  The end mill is 1/8th  inch so lots of light passes are required, lest I break the tool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NCrrwJyntrSSnRhjy1POOrTZRaoQ_P_Pih3rOUrSbcGCGNIqQOkZxcXqF-oGTjyZhFt6s-nEuCrYq6babbJ_-AdMVEe8hvB3V0IKTb9QSnkdDCmiuZ_8WL9fPwjzoGQeymWL2BEi3A=w2400)


Now I can use a ¼ inch end mill in the rotary milling head to form most of the collar profile.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uyHqijoNxpjcSQ2ZXN9-zJ0D1kqtYsagkOuyiCeNUs3eglxM8npWxQSf-xm3MAtnbnX_mkbROzZcOhNUZn45ILbT-HoJ9CIX2k8RmiTM7_iQ7jNcQTBWvU01Wjy9CJ-QddzOmCKTfQ=w2400)


This collar clamps to the magneto bearing plate on the engine.  Here I’m drilling and taping the adjust mount part of the clamp.  I choose to do this now, while the material forming the clamp has rigidity.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZHeQycaiqhtAANIUBsPmUH4LvQKA9WSaH1irWy06TVtK0X7pI-ufDb8S0NuIhUO0ta04e3voU0LX87eXXDksnAbF7U6-yJftwnhyv89m2PMWUIjzvIr5ZAyPWLaHQg1GPij3BrAdQ=w2400)


I’m using a slitting saw to part away the top portion of the clamp.  I’m just using the chuck on the dividing head to hold the piece.  The right angle drive allows me to orient the slitting saw correctly for the cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2OkZDnC9n_HD0lCM-6-oZssM1ieAyNnVemDOjNp-XSghinc_yqSgVdqLDadEA70yQodldSRUbC4aetJSxKMYN_-YTCPOoK7Kn02Yw0Ydx0C0n8BxEEDEa1d053hDysmpeMajn8lYyA=w2400)


Moving in to get a better view.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C2Yn5ix5IRr6coSXZ7vro0B1phK3-ltXVrj8na6oc6WJtd8GeFrE7EOuR7mPTyGAis2R45xTRwIMHAC2ff7wWNHaWY8nETWdRrpoWy3h91UeJl8Ccn099j2XJWqhvb6B2UfzgNaOew=w2400)



Now I’m using another slitting saw to cut apart the adjustment parts of the clamp.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UNcv61IJDUqGF-9Avj2hiot_40E6eekXRndFboyzZ7bRslMfROeVfPWoSvgJwm10w8Tp2RIU8lG8fqOX1RVlXqc6q6kYUbgGlyAcKV4IQT1dbExIrQ7zwWnLdUAVoTQpPCrcG7dhWQ=w2400)


The finished magneto mount.  Looks pretty much like the full size part.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8ktkF_XibYLovz95pmUvp0aICZzIDenPKihWr9dk441at5zRgtMb6sfVmKo1elcF7pQd3w0I7GQuBZB1ZJoYhNsmid_vUBB2pYEumvCsdL1he0pH0N2C0r_1GB_EkZ0ImnHlmNaSHw=w2400)


A view of the part, mounted on the engine.  In case you’re wondering, the indentation in the top of the bearing race is an oil grove to help carry oil to the bearing surface.  The full size is a slightly different design, with a “pipe cleaner” wick to retain the oil.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gP9MAy60bp6NYYQfEhyUN0EIdCdk0WzxUBctU5Rzc5AJwlXfWa-Va_wNQj2rkq2OQbZ7aWm03gY3voiYbpZZu-csDP-3SJvkPJHTQ_A6jsb5YYaQsPzRC18DpTbWqEkY2b3jwML1Og=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on May 04, 2018, 01:17:16 AM
Complex part, nicely done!

Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on May 04, 2018, 09:46:05 AM
Some very nice machining, second time all ok  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: Still following along in the background  :wine1:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on May 04, 2018, 03:25:16 PM
Craig,
That part looks great. Lots of different set up's.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 13, 2018, 10:50:47 PM
Possibly you’ve noticed that all my up thread pictures are gone!  At the time of this writing I’m having a problem with my web services provider.  When/if it gets resolved they should re-appear.  For now, I’ve reverted to posting pictures at the end of the post and letting Modelenginemaker host the photos.

I’ve occupied my time these last few days in the fabrication of the magneto.  My plan is to make all the parts I would need to have this be a functioning magneto with the exception of the coils.  I’ll be using battery/coil ignition to get the engine to run; then I MAY? re-visit the magneto, wind the coils, and see if I can get this magneto to function as a “real” magneto. Up thread I already described how this magneto works, so I won’t repeat that explanation here.

The first picture below is the back of the magneto with its mounting bracket I worked so hard on just up post.

With the second picture I show you the ring on the magneto bearing plate on the engine on which the magneto mounts.  On the full size this is a positive, firm attachment and I was wondering how well this would work on the model.  My fears were unjustified because the magneto mounts as firmly to the model as it does to the full size.

The third picture is a photo of the front of the magneto, less the center armature.

The fourth picture is a photo of the magneto with the center armature installed.  This armature spins on the hollow steel mandrel in the center of the magneto which you can see in the third picture.  The armature is comprised of a steel “H” and a points collar that are mounted to a hollow brass cylinder that rides on the steel mandrel.  On the full size, this mandrel has a pipe cleaner wick to oil the bearing.  I’m using a grove, cut in the mandrel to facilitate this.

The fifth picture is a close-up view of the armature.  The points wiper will ride on the front cylinder; the indentation will “trip” the points which are yet to be fabricated. 

The sixth and last picture is a photo of the magneto, mounted to the engine. 

Rare earth magnets are installed at the top and bottom of the magneto frame.  With these in place, when I turn the armature by hand I can feel a slight resistance as the cutouts in the armature align with the center arms of the two side “E”s. This is encouraging; because it indicates that a magnetic field is building and collapsing along the center arms of both “E”s (where the coils would be situated).
 
I’ve had a discussion with some electrical engineering friends regarding whether this magneto has a chance of working.  We’ve decided to wind a few hundred turns of magnet wire on one of the coil legs and then spin the armature in some controlled fashion.  With an oscilloscope we can observe the voltage produced; the height and form of the resulting trace may indicate if pursuing a “real” magneto further is warranted.

As I stated earlier,  if this will be a non-functioning magneto  I can always use battery/coil ignition.     
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: crueby on May 14, 2018, 12:49:38 AM
Are you using PostImage? They changed their web address to end in .cc rather than .org, after a dispute with some domain name organization. Same on my threads - I've been in touch with Ade (our esteemed forum runner) who is working on a global path update for us, sounds like he is quite busy on his real job, he is trying to get time to get it worked out.If not using postimage, please ignore this post and move on....!   :cheers:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 14, 2018, 01:00:20 AM
Nope Chris.  I bought a website a few years ago from an outfit called eHost.com.  everything was working well.  A,month or two ago they were bought by JustHost.com.  it appears that the domain provider used by eHost isn't the one JustHost uses and something is going on with my domain name 'lausonsmallengines.org'  which no longer resolves.  This appears to be a management/marketing/$$$ problem.  We're it a technical one, the fix would be trivial.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: crueby on May 14, 2018, 01:06:06 AM
Nope Chris.  I bought a website a few years ago from an outfit called eHost.com.  everything was working well.  A,month or two ago they were bought by JustHost.com.  it appears that the domain provider used by eHost isn't the one JustHost uses and something is going on with my domain name 'lausonsmallengines.org'  which no longer resolves.  This appears to be a management/marketing/$$$ problem.  We're it a technical one, the fix would be trivial.
Bummer. Sounds like you need to rent some of my Ninja Attack gnomes to pay them a visit...(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81gzRTLFt2L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 14, 2018, 01:08:14 AM
If I knew where to send them, I would !
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 16, 2018, 11:07:44 PM
Thanks to all of you that are hang-in with me on this build. 

Don’t know about y’all (yea, we really say that down here in the sunny south), but it’s at about this point in a build where, to me, things seem to start dragging.  I’ll be taking a two week trip in a week and am traveling up to the St. Laurence river to help a friend with some work at his cottage.  I’m looking forward to it so movement on this project will definitely stop for a few weeks, can’t say I’m not looking forward to the break.  Who knows, maybe they’ll even have my web site fixed by then and all my pictures will re-appear. :Mad:  :NotWorthy:  :embarassed:  :help:

I’m calling the work on this magneto “done” at this point.  I finished all the work I’m planning on doing with it for a while, and I have completed operational points that will actually fit under the flywheel.  :NotWorthy:

At first I meticulously followed my drawings, :happyreader: but it got to a crossroad where I realized that what I had designed might work but wouldn’t be very durable. :Doh:  A re-design caused more problems because when you’re building a scale model, you can’t just change the appearance of the engine to fit some new need.  It took some head scratching :noidea: to work under the constraints of something that would fit under the flywheel, but eventually, perseverance paid off. 

Below is a video of the engine with magneto and points.  The model is like the original, the timing of the engine can’t be adjusted.  I think I have the timing where the engine will run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt_2LkZbkA8

Also, below are two pictures of the points, one with the points closed and another with them open.  I am a bit concerned that the points don’t stay closed very long; possibly at higher RPM, the points might not have a chance to actually close.  If this occurs, I can always cut the lead-in ramp a little longer.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vw1dCoYtq4-l8clgTfs1b0F2y1pN6iXEtIFPYD1EKu0ME1oxIQrzmAcx5YIjKOulZApxtYZD0AlwNv-F4hstpXJPAL9k-Wtp-k7X8PX8GPaM3fUxHAvWBSuCX7QYl7ebHeJxsy2CnA=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vNKwY8_hwHdNIabQQHegTScXeF9Pc-CQEiGWffX2SgIXErE3xL5V56nho7Hq3IiowjQxHX1kVD6xsVgbSWk28Aactd2lfQi3xo80hnxaZfwfAd4KjIGYbZRWoMzjedi6wQqtFefpkA=w2400)

I’m now on to the flywheel.  This is starting as a 5 inch diameter, 2 inch thick chunk of steel.  The shop was blue with smoke this afternoon by the time I managed to get the basic extreme outer dimensions established.  I’ll be doing a lot of carving on this piece, probably 80% will be removed by the time I’m finished. 
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on May 17, 2018, 01:24:37 AM
Enjoy your break Craig, and the cooler weather too!!

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on May 17, 2018, 01:37:55 AM
Craig--On any "long" build, you get to a point where nobody is commenting anymore. It doesn't mean people aren't looking. It just means that everyone who had something to say has already said it. Your post count keeps going up, but the silence is deafening. Take a break. Enjoy helping your friend up on the St. Lawrence. We'll still be following when you pick this up again and begin making progress.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 17, 2018, 11:09:21 PM
Yea, maybe you noticed but my pictures up thread are back (so is my web site). :cartwheel: :pinkelephant:  It was only down for a week :killcomputer:  yes, that was intended sarcasm (if you’re bored and have nothing to do :LittleAngel: you can read my RANT :rant: on this at SmokStak.com on the small engine forum).

Brian- Not getting discouraged, just needing a break. ;D  I can’t imagine taking on something like Chris’s steam shovel. :insane:  When he completes it, it will/would look great on the top of the dirt pile at cabin fever. :ThumbsUp:

On a more positive note, progress continued today on the flywheel.  I made lots of swarf to fill the trash and expended lots of time in starting to reduce this lump of steel to something resembling a flywheel.  Here’s a photo of the completed inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8jgqE-lMSy_Kn88GCRpPW3HMn5wGNHcDRF1znot9SwbzNrpDoQXLW3b_cb4g0gPfMHgkgUAckBFD2p-cCWe5imtT1KccMFmdDoDwrM1Eae8HiopQLNBOkTFYSjiDyAYi-mBco77ZLA=w2400)


Before continuing further I wanted to cut the tapered hole for the crankshaft and then cut the taper on the crankshaft to accept the flywheel.  The taper in the flywheel was cut with a tapered reamer; pretty simple.  The taper on the crankshaft was cut on the lathe using the lathe compound which was set to 2.8 degrees.  I don’t know about your lathe, but setting the compound to 2.8 degrees on my lathe was pretty much guess work.  Needless to say, I experimented with a piece of scrap :ThumbsUp: to get the right angle before attempting this on the actual crankshaft.  Once I got the angle right, I switched to the crankshaft and got a fit I’m happy with.  (Yea, I really didn’t want to mess this up and have to make another crankshaft :embarassed:).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lJICJEXD5TylxjLRUIi91ZUBpSdWFhKzJnl9PiXUXWxnOWe_VhehfsnwTn-NXodboHnD6RKmjonzADS3KSQhX1zr3Z3Xt6D_9ZL6q5V3ddRtqqsU5Ic5dycslCfeqMq8JlpK_ZSYvQ=w2400)

Had I not run out of time today, I would have re-assembled the engine and made sure everything cleared under the flywheel.  My CAD software says it will :atcomputer:, but I’ve overlooked things before.

There remains lots of work to complete this flywheel.  I have a few more days I can spend on this before I’m off on my Northern Adventure.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on May 17, 2018, 11:28:19 PM
I build model carburetors based on a design originally developed by Malcolm Stride from the U.K. The throat has an included angle of 16 degrees. Not knowing any better, I bought a tapered spiral flute reamer to use. Gayle from New Mexico warned me to be VERY careful using it, because if there was any "slop" in my tailstock chuck, it would "suck right into the work" and destroy it. Being warned, I tried it on a scrap piece of aluminum . He was absolutely right. It did pull itself into the work to a point where it stalled the lathe. Scared the living Hell out of me. I've never used it again. I made a tapered D bit form 01 steel and hardened it, and it does the job just fine without pulling itself into the work.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 18, 2018, 12:09:30 AM
Brian: by dumb ignorance I avoided this.  My reamer has straight flutes and when choosing a chuck to hold it I randomly chose the chuck that came with my lathe that IS NOT keyed into the tailstock.   The reamer did grab the work a few times but since the chuck was not keyed in to the tailstock it merely start turning in the tailstock.  With straight flutes there wasn’t a tendency to draw into the work and without the chuck being keyed, it didn’t grab and shatter the reamer shaft.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on May 18, 2018, 04:03:40 AM
Craig,
Can't speak for the tapered reamer, never used one. But as we say here in WI of going north. Enjoy your trip to the great north woods.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on May 20, 2018, 06:54:19 PM
Still following along  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
 A break from time to time is always good. Small magnetos are a very special art  ::) There needs to be enough iron/inductance to store enough spark energy.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on June 14, 2018, 08:51:14 PM
I’ve been back from my Great Northern Adventure for nearly a week but as always; there were several things I needed to attend to before I could focus back on this build.

I might not have mentioned it before but there is a tractor/engine show in northern Pennsylvania sponsored by the Endless Mountains Tractor and Engine Club near where my sister lives; the show happened to coincide with my planned trip.  She’s been telling me I need to bring my models and attended the show so this year I opted to do so.  Before heading up to the St. Laurence River, I dropped my models off at her house, they spent a week in the garage and it rained every day.  Place your models in a damp garage for a week and you’ll find out where you missed applying clear coat to the bright metal (that turns not quite so bright :().  Now that I’m back home I’ve spent a few days disassembling models, removing rust, and reassembling after applying clear coat.  I’m hoping this is behind me now.

Finally back to the Lauson LA model.  I had started on the flywheel before the trip and a few more days of effort allowed me to finish this part.  Here is a photo of one of the more bizarre setups I’ve done.  I have the rotary table mounted at a 45 degree angle as I cut the angled flats on the front of the flywheel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0CdkaUoV_A7_Je_1R9kdY3eeRBmG2213KY9jzSK9wQwlWDvQ4KatCORjC_1WbfilZCkYgvysMoR_U6GrVexZb_IzBiINeb8kDz_5b9zX_00up4oZgTo0aQAEn6oHIgRXZ92ZvNKImQ=w2400)


With that done it was on to finishing the fins.  I’m using the dividing head just to align the work at successive 15 degree rotations as I cut the remainder of the fins.  By clamping the piece part to the angle plate I was able to obtain a rigid mount to perform the machine work.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cncfzyued-PmIU2fib-C_cEtl-U9FykVYYtdMzwonp1PzcyGh7sAKUaYQkVHhN24kbY5KmL_LY-cH3SeApX3OXDa-6p-F26Ud4avwztAc8tUlDEybvWRVMNq6sP03D6yJ07cW7brtA=w2400)


I probably have a little file work to do to really complete this part.  There was a tremendous amount of work and time invested in completing this flywheel; especially distressing since it will be nearly entirely covered by the blower housing.  Still, a model is a model.

Finally two views of the flywheel mounted on the engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kolerHtbCjBc9IYOeZkeGYbt9RCjN36r8vVRv1OseEvoKsXVEqFwZcV2Kdd0AAxgPE4GxLTvzKw0O9Xc2Z2G67otz0KUNry_7JUbR_IdNHM9Kucm-X_0gnwM88Qt_krXQfVngcbg4Q=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xy6q8jfHjkM7T2DsoeE0SF2OB_kP-XyYumLsiorPuyfIg-lJeSohjhGcVggBAvu6cZhS0iScefnbN3oavnp1i1WzjvCutFmakX86ddF8Wzeo4yTfu-8BqmJwxJBIu2ZnPLacCRLrHg=w2400).
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on June 14, 2018, 09:51:04 PM
Glad to see you back on this build and I can see that there's a lot of work in such a "simple" part  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on June 14, 2018, 09:56:13 PM
Quite a complex part Craig. Turned out very well though. Glad you enjoyed your trip other than the damp conditions, but I'm sure the engines appreciated the TLC too.  :)

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on June 14, 2018, 10:25:19 PM
Craig--I'm losing track here---Did you do all of that flywheel on manual machines or do you have some cnc going there. Great job whichever you used.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on June 14, 2018, 10:28:23 PM
No CNC equipment in my shop Brian, all manual equipment.  Thanks.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Art K on June 15, 2018, 03:22:42 AM
Craig,
I've never made a flywheel as complicated as that. Maybe some day I will make an air cooled with that sort of flywheel but I think I will use CNC. Great job.
Art
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on June 21, 2018, 09:59:47 PM
Thanks for all the encouragement; especially Bill, Brian, Art, and Per who have recently commented.  Thanks also for others who are silently following along.
 
The flywheel did absorb DAYS of time, but it was kind-a fun to do as it involved going a few places I haven’t ventured before, though it involved a lot of repetition.  Most of the face work (outside face of the flywheel) was done with one (1) carbide ¼ inch end mill.  I thought for sure I’d have to replace it at least once but it kept “hanging in there”. :NotWorthy:  Sure wish I remember :thinking: where I got it so I could get a few more. :ThumbsUp:     
 
In the past week or so I’ve gone back and finished quite a few odds and ends; you know: those tasks that individually don’t take much time and aren’t particularly hard, but cumulatively, can burn up days of effort.  Still, they need done if you’re going to produce a finished model.

I decided it was time to close the block.  This required attaching the crankcase breather that you see at the rear left side of the block in the following photo. 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R8kCLz2_rcdlhTXRJH9_Xmb4SsFB7-NfOpRzFD-WbJI_nSehM1HckNJhA-Hslqm85CQmo05V_TdQx-YHklAILupHlklg6wgV0CX7M56ZoUIZHM001mNVA5ApeYZQXTZ0dgs3QkbIDw=w2400)


Also in the above photo you get a fairly good view of the governor cap.  I now have the knurled knob protruding out the back that allows adjustment of the governor.  An internal spring bears against the governor spindle that was the topic of discussion on post 115 up thread.

I also fabricated the intake manifold (though some additional filing/forming is required).  Once I fabricate the carburetor I can glue up the connections and position it properly.  It shows prominently in the photo below.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uLMMfn-DaLmR6TOTClkaZnp0XXObPF4bbgpqp5MSUQmkZqp0GdNv2T5SdG5Unxn4GV0l1K3y-s86pz0U9iyh5zWcTbWPAKXWGXjUk2SppKxh2SNQpjg2EO0-bKRqbywfn8tOQmdEXA=w2400)


I thought I’d go ahead and make the muffler.  This is my attempt at a reproduction of the standard muffler Lauson used for many of their engines and it appears on several of my other models.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TBGHmcf8IgDOu0jhVpNoR2jhHKPnXcB2Gmg34iKO9Rv1ZGsIlm1jduhtXbEAKkONSBYv1xaAy338BHm6IqchPXLVpuxbNAz3zAtoAr3VVfu4BW-HUvHSN2hfMGJtTcIlhYiMN8_fBA=w2400)


Also, in the above photo and the one below you see the kick-start bracket that holds the kick-start mechanism to the front of the engine block.  While all the other attachments I’ve “glued” to the block are for the most part, cosmetic; this bracket is attached to three protrusions recessed in and "glued" to the front of the block.  It will take some stress if I intend to use the kick-start mechanism to start the engine (and I’d sure like to do so).  We’ll see how this holds up.  I used JB Weld to “glue” these parts, it’s worked with mixed success in the past.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6zx4uYc2ZS1EUOmwe3J6-SH5ou15b2HayLAEbiQONtKSRTT7xLuV_V4YMT--crB1stTuR8Z_roJ8372wDeivkeE4k7H2ScZuerNz886sPt2NlITI4ajvfCxnkvSNLNhXkHvyMjoYg=w2400)
 
With all this “gluing” I thought I’d prime the model so I could see how well I have the glue joints blended to the body; remembering that the block in the full size was cast as one piece and I’m trying to replicate that.  The paint shows that I have a bit more “feathering” to do at a few places to simulate a piece cast as one part.  All in all though, I'm pleased with the progress.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: 10KPete on June 21, 2018, 11:29:09 PM
That is a really great model, Craig. I've followed along for most of your build and I admire your patience and skill.

Please don't forget to post more, and a video, if you can. It will be good to see it run.

Congratulations!!

Pete
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on June 21, 2018, 11:55:50 PM
Craig--I'm old enough to remember when all of the clothes washing machines were powered by similar kick-start Briggs and Stratton or Iron Horse single cylinder engines. This was back in the early 1950's before hydro-electricity came to my part of Ontario.---Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Dave Otto on June 22, 2018, 01:00:38 AM
The little Lauson is looking great Craig!


Dave
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on June 22, 2018, 01:26:44 AM
Nice to see this update Craig. It's really coming together now and will make a fine addition to your Lauson collection.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on June 22, 2018, 11:55:58 AM
Craig,
What an outstanding build! Eventually all the pieces come together and create an amazing miniature replica. The icing on the cake will be to hear it putting along.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on June 25, 2018, 11:52:10 PM
Pete: thanks for posting.  Yep, we’re getting near to the first “trial” run. :whoohoo:  This usually brings with it some “issues” to work out, but then that’s part of the fun too.

Brian. Bill, Dave, George: thanks for following along and all the encouragement you’ve provided.

George: Thanks again for your wisdom regarding the helical gears; I’m not sure this model would have moved forward without your assistance.  And believe it or not, I’m not finished yet with helical gears with this model, the kick start mechanism also uses them and that will provide its own set of unique challenges.

Thanks also for those silently following along.   

I’ve spent the last few days carving away on this piece of aluminum,
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KC5uZH6ubhOa5OvZw713FDJHguvGvb7p4VgPrSxR8t_QSNNi7LdtdVsK1EEnJqkXIicgUswwMV_apqPYMAdolNuZX0e3qymxNO19NVFRqdKX7B6kJ8TzMLtmUwhRB-TsSsd8ewBySw=w2400)



trying to coax a carburetor body from it;  lots of setups and lots of steps were required.  This is the fourth of these Tillitson type carburetors I’ve made and you’d think by now I’d have it down to a fine science.  Not so however, it seems like I just I just keep hacking away at the aluminum block till a carburetor appears. :-[  I never seem to follow the same steps, of course all the carburetors are different; but mostly from a cosmetic standpoint.
A good way to start is to get some of the major passageways and holes drilled.  I’ve found that doing so tends to avoid dumb errors.  You might absent mindedly mill away needed material, but you probably won’t if a required hole is in the path.  Here I’ve started forming the mounting flange that attaches the carburetor to the intake manifold.  I’ve drilled the throttle side of the venturi and have just finished drilling the two mounting holes.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/34CkZUNed6TPPHnFQRHS6DU_Wu9QFBR4pZVSfMxk7lEYx5y3KjxznNZGgxELdcQCtBNt2z4N3ycu_WlQehQUEOqeEXJwSZSuPUjy8f8K-w3BKwYQ64_daKqNyzuZpp0dIgGpKLLUfw=w2400)
     
Now I’ve flipped the piece over and am forming the other side of the venturi and the mount holes for an air cleaner.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MEaA1QCKkxEQIZjivQhdBQb2k-NbbJQcefI8_-3w3KxMxPUbuOXLMd_KCuOY6BNH8_x9fWDwJzp90Ck20PqbOeYf6xXqN9MnB1E7beD3a1gXHxvo4UZ6dyh7lj-aDWdasfU3LNPIuA=w2400)


Skipping over a few steps, Here I’m forming the float and fuel inlet chamber.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/df9OgId4tqOJtUyMbuaJIo_WtjVeyzM9bsY30DMoLhwzjuH578W5AgPaiUTO3NNmGEX69l2bLWYgus0_5zCvqO4WnyI445lnwzANXqkcpUNJB-NSNsjqnnr8fVCVKbX1ToZUNVIGJg=w2400)


A few more steps later I’m in the process of drilling and taping the receiver for the main needle and needle seat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TtnaJQQo1wfYSR9uAcfgYS0tSmcW2f_k_HtvnVLVp1ZCiAjiaub5mUqdL6HhWz0VDgjHPHaCc8KFHDo96wDxeq7U4nSf1MOFhmdULetkqxOuDEEz7HNeFo9ucqj9tGPulkh1pu9XjQ=w2400)
 

Advancing a few more steps, I’m forming the carburetor mounting flange using my rotary milling head.  The rotary milling head has been on and off the mill all day and has been used extensively to form all the curved surfaces.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GLxRSBh9jWcwOYZMUIChDyxY88JYUUv4BQO__gPnAHLZxSxSOmOC5tL2HCsurv5s9hnFHvUGKzNLk4DIXO9JpP448ZvDFSBQ26CtVAwY4qzW_1trFyg98iNvZwVjLN2VfuZhWdIoMw=w2400)


Here I’m forming the air cleaner flange.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cpNCGS_ifjjA1hszWLd4x7StStnBxb0NMb9Ho5ZTfoxZ4i3oWo4s6VAYjyWTqQq6Ils_f3HxqXVbXRBd1j0hVXXKJuxZtoN60niZXuAhz40fCqoXgTGMUsXRZdsEs7AYLq7ZZLgsMQ=w2400)

Finally, I give you a few views of the finished carburetor body.
This view is looking down on the top, from the back of the carburetor.  Clearly seen is the float chamber.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dZTSSQnvCUwz9NkZeGpFhR6c7OBM3-3sKSQkcpDX-MyIYbiIL9hvY6NPcx0CuJrNnbNQLC0lb481xzUq7rMqEtoy0aWeTPEdxStfDyfCJwPebGDHlowPfcZ8MK84T4DBAL-Ac92twA=w2400)


This is another view from the back of the carburetor.  On the left front you can see the opening for the throttle barrel.  Lower down, on the diagonal member (to cosmetically simulate the full size carburetor) are two opening that will be plugged when I complete the carburetor.  The bottom opening is a drilled passageway that crosses through the main needle chamber and on to the bottom of the float bowl chamber.  This passage delivers gas from the float bowl to the area under the main needle seat where the main needle can regulate the amount of fuel available to the venturi.  The higher opening is a passageway into the area above the needle seat.  A hole, drilled from the top of the carburetor body intersects this passageway and allows the higher ambient atmospheric pressure (higher than in the venturi) to lift fuel into the carburetor throat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kgdFY31ZJdWJRZWQDUVEBVnMZpj2q-Db6_WAtAJVzgMRabU_z-zLkgaA1TMRdXZrzKFsMZICtH9RZrW0smJhFoHl-wJl3ZcHbU37e0HpKaYnC89hewvV7fjNUobHvkxLmsyNpO5SJQ=w2400)
   

This is a view of the bottom of the carburetor.  The hole in the center left is a float bowl drain and will be closed off with a set screw.  The hole on the bottom upper right is the entry for the main needle seat and gland.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dxeR0FGWzwxdG1QaYz-tfmBrRVZrpY_cLfhb6p9OyOwmj7g7djO_YXlDjrvZx45vAcB_p7oSb8Wu4u3HhAcwhAcLLzBlxCW2d_Lk831xsE7TJ1DYXaYusOgEfSVGREC9Fu5YoNbQog=w2400)
 

Now, with the carburetor body complete my attention will be focused on making all the parts that make this a functioning carburetor.  I need to make the main needle, needle gland, and needle seat; the throttle barrel and choke barrel; the carburetor lid and float bowl shut-off valve.  I need to also make the float- but more about that later.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 26, 2018, 12:32:21 AM
Thanks also for those silently following along.   

Yes...I'm one of the silent.  :popcorn: It's really interesting.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on June 29, 2018, 09:46:54 PM
Did you ever have one of those days where NOTHING goes right? For me, that would have been yesterday: just a calamity of errors and problems :facepalm2:.  I managed to make a needle valve and needle seat, but it took the whole blessed day.  Everything was going wrong, including dropping a die and hearing it roll across the floor to who knows where? :shrug:  Now I don’t consider my shop particularly messy, but it took over half an hour to find it, though in the process I did manage to clean a few far reaching corners that haven’t had the experience for quite a while. :-[ Today was much more productive and I managed to complete the carburetor and carburetor parts.

Below you’ll see the carburetor and all the parts. 

The left column is the main needle, backing nut, gland, and main needle seat.
Center column is the choke barrel, above the throttle barrel, and above the carburetor body.
On the right is the float, directly above the fuel bowl shutoff valve, and above that the carburetor cap with valve seat installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GldhGESncLyWOnkW2WPJcY9Dfgwj4-sH_7dHiBGIb5RimUrkRm-1jKblELpJiOxFsMtCSTPBONPj2DKK319mixr8lcd5BgtLWOXDBPc2NJjkI-VkRypJcS_y4JrGyR7BO6sdmFLGFQ=w2400)

The main problem I have in building these carburetors is getting the fuel shutoff valve to function reliably.  The float is so small that it has very little lifting force.  I’ve gone to using a cut-off needle of approximately .035 inch diameter as the valve.  The float lifts this needle up into a drilled chamber of around .052 inch diameter where it seats into a hole drilled at the top of the chamber to .025 inch diameter.  With some fiddling I can usually get this to work.

The float is the end of a wine cork that is around ¼ inch thick and has a diameter of around 5/8th inch.  I treat the cork with gas tank sealant.  For this go-round I’m trying a very thin metal cap (.010 inch) on top of the float so the needle doesn’t dig into the cork over time. 

After long and extensive testing of wine corks under the most rigorous of scientific methods :wine1: I've found that the corks from Merlot are unacceptable, as are the corks from Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Syrah, and Pinot Noir; a cork from a semidry Riesling seems to work best :LittleDevil:  (jeez- the sacrifices we make for this hobby).  :lolb: 
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on June 29, 2018, 10:13:41 PM
Dang, I thought I was the only one that had to resort to multiple tastings of an adult beverages to reach a solution  :lolb: :lolb:. Work is looking awesome Craig. I would venture to say that valve sealing and carburation is the hardest aspect of this sport.  :DrinkPint:  &   :popcorn: here.

Cletus
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 02, 2018, 11:55:30 PM
Cletus: In the afternoons you’ll often find an open beer in the shop. :DrinkPint:  I think it helps to “soothe the savage beast”. :cheers:

Progress continued on the one thousand and one odds and ends :o in my quest toward seeing if this model will run.

First on the list was building a stand for the engine.  I usually make a wooden box where I can place the coil, condenser, various wiring, etc.  Here I’m making the finger joints on the box with my “ToolMaster FingerJoint 1000 ™“ 
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T68cYayjW-EKZ4l4V7eU5pABf9n3S9Q7DKvhbO9af3o5xlvBdqfv9bHKwePJmGT4CUkCYBUTO0CPuOTXKYdr3cDFsjFatqgJq3XTlb8c8ikEHhwk05Wbb6Ui_lNTj7slsWdovpz9Kg=w2400)
more commonly known as a Bridgeport Milling Machine :Jester:

I feel a little guilty using a milling machine for woodwork, but it does make beautiful finger joints, and it makes them so easily that I think even “Bozo the Clown” would be successful. :ThumbsUp:

I decided to paint the model before trying to run it.  I had it all apart and cleaned when I epoxied the several components to the block I mention in the above post and while it was disassembled and cleaned I figured I might as well paint.  It looks a bit different since the last time you saw it; but still lots to do before I can call it complete.  I still have a few items to address before a test run, but the list is getting shorter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZZYdQGLGsiJHMiOROr0qo6nmkLegFGxCwUsy_uGrAlnIAyfVKh7S5RZ1OSyyOC4Pd2OszfITnAyAmoa-GXVE1XXjev2aaUPKCO0juJOElJdfAlPybv5ACQAX_UdusH42BnvnxQv8Vw=w2400)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GCvvx65sSsFyVy-5ih8jKH8ozET984kC44JY3lntbwFYUcvcNIb3yzOyOjAwR28_6zuOGRsk9fgqsYqFJOdIYLlu_13lav__BM2myi1tffZi8aqiPPsQJ5tcZsgKld9QrDgeyrKWYg=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Brian Rupnow on July 03, 2018, 12:13:29 AM
Craig--It's a beautiful thing. I can't get over the amount of work it must have been to make that flywheel. Good luck.--Brian
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: AlexS on July 06, 2018, 07:08:10 PM
Craig, It looks cool! Are you also planning to scale up a washing machine or something? So that the engine could power it?
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: kvom on July 06, 2018, 07:50:08 PM
I've always wanted one of those BP right angle attachments but can't justify the money whenever I see them offered. 

I assume the finger joints could be done with the board mounted vertically although obviously the hold in the vise is better as you have it.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on July 06, 2018, 08:39:35 PM
Dang! it looks like the real thing!
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on July 11, 2018, 08:32:07 PM
Catching up with this build again. Excellent work and looks almost ready to start  :praise2:  :praise2:  :wine1:

I was looking back at your points setup and wonder if your closed (dwell) time is too short. The points need to close for enough time for the magnetic field to build up in the coil. I think there is also a video missing in post 137  :headscratch:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 11, 2018, 10:17:06 PM
Cletus, Kirk, Allen, Brian, Rodger, George: y’all are too kind; thank you for your complements.

Well, it runs: sort-of  :o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGroYtMSdm4

The above is an edited video of the more successful (fits and starts).  I still have a few issues to address (like getting it to run dependably and the gas pouring out of the carburetor) but I’m thinking my remaining issues are confined to carburetion.  I’ve come across LOTS of problems in the last week or two, trying to coach some life out of this thing.

This little guy has proven to be one of the more problematic models I’ve built.  I will occasionally build a model (like the Debolt Star) that ran great the first time I cranked it over; but not this little guy.

I would never call myself an “expert” model engine builder, :Lol: there are some folks on this site that work at a caliber of which I can only dream of aspiring to; but I have built four of these ½ size Lausons.  The previous three run pretty well and I have no doubt that this one will too once I get the few remaining problems solved.  I’m going to document the highlights of the problems I’ve dealt with over the past two weeks so that some of the less experienced guys on this site can see that even someone who you would think ought to know what he is doing by now still can create a raft of problems to sort through.

My first problem occurred pretty early, like when I first turned this engine over with the starter.  You might remember that this engine, like the full size, has a mandrel threaded into the front of the block.  The hollow camshaft rides on this mandrel.  When I spun the engine with the starter, the cam mandrel, even though it had a locking nut on the outside of the block, promptly screwed out of the engine block and fell into the crankcase, taking the camshaft with it. :o   Drilling the locking nut (effectively turning it into a castle nut) and placing a keeper through the hole corrected that problem.

The second problem was that even though I had checked this earlier, the inside of the flywheel was dragging on something on the magneto.  I ended up using marker dye and spinning the flywheel, then disassembling to see where the problem occurred.  Fortunately, there was a little extra “meat” on the flywheel at the offending spot to remove and correct this problem.

Thirdly, the exhaust valve was leaking.  It wasn’t when I lapped and tested the valves but it sure was now.  More lapping and a stronger spring corrected that problem.

Fourthly, and Rodger had scoped this out up thread, but after I found it; I had spark at hand cranking speed but no spark when spun with the electric starter.  As Rodger suggested I increased the dwell time and corrected this problem.

Fifthly, the timing seemed to have shifted a bit to the “late” side, maybe due to “Four” above.  This was a mystery and since the timing collar had no adjustment (just like the original) I ended up redesigning the timing collar so that the timing could be adjusted; then re-timed the engine.

Now about a week had passed, and I had as yet to hear one solitary “POP” from this thing.

In frustration I removed the carburetor and squirted a little gas into the intake valve area, spun the engine, and POP POP POP three good successive fires. :ThumbsUp:  An inspection of the intake manifold showed it was completely blocked. :noidea:  Well, I had glued the five parts that make it up together, hadn’t I checked to see if it was blocked?  Apparently I had not.  I managed to fish out the blockage with a bit of stiff wire.

After that things improved dramatically and I thought I’d make this video to show it probably will run once the remaining kinks are worked out.

At this venture it seems to be starving out as it runs, but opening the main needle seems to flood it out.  With the construction of the needle, anything over three turns probably won’t make any difference. It either wants a VERY critical needle setting or I have some porting wrong in the carburetor.  I’m thinking more toward the latter and I’ll have my thinking cap on over the next few days about addressing that.  I also need to figure out from where the gas is pouring out of the carburetor; probably the float valve needs some attention and if this is the case, fixing this will probably correct the flooding problem; this has been a critical issue with the other carburetors I’ve built.
 
Then of course, in concert with getting it running better, there are lots of items to address to complete this model: the blower housing, fuel tank, and kick start mechanism to name a few.

All in all Cletus, time to sit back and open a beer to celebrate.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on July 12, 2018, 10:51:36 AM
Congratulations on a fine (if not completed) runner  :cheers:

I feel confident that you will iron out the last problems too  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on July 12, 2018, 11:55:55 AM
Craig,
Congratulations to this point are certainly in order. From your explanations let me offer you my two cents worth. First I don't think the porting is an issue. I have engines with porting of all different sizes and shapes and as much as you'd think there would be a problem, there's not.
Carburetors in these sizes can be very sensitive so that could might be an issue.
The thing I'm suspecting is the ignition timing. It's hard to know exactly where to start. I usually begin between 10-15 degrees. Once the engine is running I adjust it to find the sweet spot. With your ignition timer buried that makes it more difficult. Once you get the carb sorted out I would play with the timing a little. It's amazing how just a couple of degrees will change the whole character of the engines performance.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: kvom on July 12, 2018, 04:02:05 PM
Wondering why you've built 4 of these.  Addiction?   :shrug:  :noidea:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Johnmcc69 on July 12, 2018, 06:35:02 PM
Been following along silently Craig, but must say this is a beautiful build. Very well thought out & executed. Very nice work.

 Thanks for pointing out your trials & tribulations in getting the bugs worked out, good info to digest & as usual, great responses from the community here.

 Can't wait to see it finished & a family shot of the others with it.

  :ThumbsUp: :cheers: :popcorn:

 John
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 12, 2018, 10:05:00 PM
Thanks for your encouragement, yesterday was a discouraging day. 

George- thanks for your advice. I’m going to look at the timing as you suggest but in post following this one you’ll see that my major problems were, chiefly, fuel related.  I might be able to tweak the timing some, resulting in the engine being able to run through abrupt throttle changes.  Any insight regarding that would be appreciated.

Kirk- I wasn’t clear regarding building Lauson models; I’m not building four of these things.  I have built three different Lauson engine models (this being the fourth) which I posted a while back:

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7500.0.html
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7501.0.html
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7502.0.html

Along with building models, I’m a Lauson small engine collector and over the years I have managed to collect nearly one example of each of the different types of air cooled engines that Lauson produced.  I maintain a website (http://lausonsmallengines.org) for use by other Lauson enthusiasts to assist them in their collecting and restoration of these engines.  I’ve been using a few of the engines from my collection as a basis for these models.   
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 12, 2018, 10:25:38 PM
A better day today.  I tracked the carburetor leak down to a blind passageway that hadn’t been plugged properly and once plugged the leak was stopped.  This also had the benefit of allowing the pressure differences in the carburetor passageways to work as designed and the result was a MUCH better running engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z00VO20vuGI

I spent the morning working on a spring in the governor cap that allows the governor to regulate the speed of the engine.  I had limited success in this because abrupt throttle changes just seem to stall out the engine while it seems to tolerate slow changes pretty well; it actually has a decent idle when the throttle is closed slowly.  I’ll need to think on this a while, maybe Georges suggestion on tweaking the timing might address this and I’m open to other suggestions if anyone wants to volunteer any. :help:  I didn’t design/build an idle circuit in the carburetor so this doesn’t surprise me.

By noon I had pretty much killed my ignition battery and I was having intermittent problems with air getting in a siphon I was using to draw fuel from my temporary fuel tank.  I did manage to make this short video to redeem myself from the one I posted yesterday.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on July 12, 2018, 11:45:46 PM
Now that just sounded so darn good that I’m going to drink a beer or three for you  :cheers:  :lolb:. Great job Craig.

Cletus
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: zeeprogrammer on July 13, 2018, 12:34:52 AM
 :pinkelephant:

I'd been following along. Very happy to see your success.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 24, 2018, 08:52:42 PM
With this little Lauson running now, A few more issues have come up that need a resolution. 

Some of the J B Weld glue joints are releasing from the aluminum; especially in the kick start area.  This is area is saturated with crankcase oil and the oil appears to be working under the epoxy and lifting it; I’m thinking J B Weld probably isn’t the best material to use in this area.   

When I lessen the tension on the governor spring, the governor will close the throttle as the engine speeds up, just like it’s supposed to; unfortunately, when this happens the engine just cuts out.  I’m thinking this engine would benefit greatly from a low speed circuit designed into the carburetor.  This can be done, but it requires a carburetor re-design and re-fabrication.

I’m also being plagued by a points problem where, as the engine runs, the engine timing changes.  Some alteration of the points is probably in order.

Rather than just plow on with my first devised immediate solution to these problems, I’m going to set this project aside for a brief period while I think about the best way to address these problems; then after careful thought I’ll get back on this project.

Meanwhile, I have a few other projects that have been awaiting my attention far too long.
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 23, 2019, 08:57:09 PM
It’s been about a year since I’ve looked at this model.  It’s been sitting patiently on the shelf, awaiting completion.  Probably time to finish it.  I left it with a few problems and though it hasn’t seen any shop time recently, I have been thinking about it from time to time.

I’ve come to the conclusion that, as much as I’d wish, I’m not going to be able to get a scale magneto working on this model.  Also, the points I designed were slowly hammering out of time as the engine ran and by abandoning the idea of a functional magneto it was fairly easy to just install a set of NAPA points under the flywheel as you see below.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8FiF-iV6Zf3ACKIeKTNts6ZGepSqK0uPiC0YGrAqQifhow1Gu9FHSuaZD7J1q5FDS0JGCnDLQEh3jqvdzM7N-YssDvmB-aNDcfnb3RShLD0vMv_ei_PIrgHrqC-BE4gBle_I18M77w=w2400)

When I looked at the JB Weld glue joints they looked really sound so maybe a year of sitting has done them well.  I’m letting them alone and time will tell.

I’ve built a few other engines since I designed this one and I’ve come to the conclusion that my carburetion issue is that the carburetor throat (Bernoulli) is far too large for this model engine displacement.  At full throttle the carburetor can function but at lower RPMs there isn’t enough vacuum to draw fuel into the carburetor.  I’m going to decrease the size of the carburetor throat and see if this helps the idle.

So, with all these new decisions made, I’ve plowed ahead toward completing the construction.  First on the list was fabricating the PTO cover which I show here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G-Ao6IHuwntIi51Fbo_H4z8U2a8jifHRY9skxftdJ-6wf37V_7ga9SKcx_peIBbRyv_Ob79-_bo--BUSF-9-3bzeik9ruACnUXc6LdonmHFpJESkjcjOwLiQWMHOQ0vYlwJuXSrrIg=w2400)

Next was addressing the kick start mechanism.  It’s going to be pretty cool trying to model this.  I need to fabricate five gears; three spur gears and two helical gears.  Here I’m using my dividing head to fabricate one of the spur gears.  All these gears will have a diametral pitch of 32.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KfbID5Xnz_1oUj-lMPN9oVlNVM2NkUfEd-8EoJf-HwGUVDwn2Bf8lo2Zh_4oC-eDtjI80Sg8rA_EXjk_MQIXZ8Il4g5zOQ-uyew-k_lRZzeVxHJwzaPD6sGduYk7WgJIWlCE3RmKHw=w2400)


Next are the helical gears.  To cut one of them I’m resurrecting Chuck Fellows helical gear cutter; the same device I used up thread to cut the crankshaft and cam shaft helical gears.  Chuck, hope you’re still with us to see your device getting more good use by a fellow modeler.  Thanks again for the effort you put in to assist many of us with your brilliance; and thanks to George Britnell for pointing me toward this solution.  Below I’ve just finished the gear (and yes, the beer is necessary for cutting helical gears, this is an instance where you definitely want to take your time and think things through in a leisurely fashion).   
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JtX-3ud6IigQSuanys4VG67x_bZ_5SdbSODfHTqUuTJgK-1s3gp1sZrSA_y4NIEY9X99VGX6muFGgUZ14YfQfx-eskN4nCkNipD4JF-I2_6QZ6v7tYz3SVZpRJxL946BI_1CVern1A=w2400)


I still have one more helical gear to cut.  With a pitch diameter of nearly 3 5/8th inch I’m not sure this helical gear cutter can accurately support the gear blank.  The good news is this is a fairly thin gear with 82 teeth (actually just a gear arc) so I’m thinking I can approximate the teeth with a straight cut with the involute gear cutter,  using a rotary table to position the gear blank.  More on this in a following post. 

Here are the various pieces and parts so far.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9K4Gyqx2r1bNHEGyFfgq3kS0MDEC0TZ_rdLKFUIJH45bYJ9hHPHjWzyQCh0HZEzzbPpAqouoIxpzi5XvrkVMN9Yk5HRt9cYB2Ckf2U9RdD2W8euboyJOAPptIIIIAZDLm0Zmbn33ow=w2400)


And here they are assembled to the engine
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EtQXqwb6Ekwn6kz1ZN0a3m86qRNOugi2y3Aad_UwvffoBzJZNt9TpPGOh_UgxZ-JjgYXYm7647LPVsgxcxG3JJEPdmSs0daGTzwbY73t1yF7PQ_bOxccP8Su-4_LPcaNsLnd_8Ptwg=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on July 24, 2019, 01:38:12 AM
Great work on the helicals Craig! That set-up sure looks familiar.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: b.lindsey on July 24, 2019, 01:50:19 AM
Nice to see it back on the front burner Craig.

Bill
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on July 29, 2019, 03:00:36 PM
Thanks for your comments Bill and George.  Thanks also to those silently stopping by to see the progress.

Work has progressed on the kick start mechanism.  As I said up thread, I was very eager to tackle this because it’s one of the reasons I chose this engine to model.

In the last post I showed and described cutting the small helical gear.  In this post I tackled the larger helical gear.  This gear has a pitch diameter so large that I doubted if I could use Chuck Fellows handy-dandy helical gear cutter.  This gear is very thin: 3/16th inch and in design I made it a bit thinner than scale.  With the diameter so large and the teeth so narrow I thought I could cut it “like” a standard spur gear but with the teeth on a diagonal as shown below.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bhd8QligHTY9104qhLnA4-NsibaQhHe6OhZUBa6v00CB0An9DyPa6HGcZr9YdYz6W_2vACrye3JMBXbs3-DNiXplWPohD6sBQeGRITh-DX6pyYMUT6EW8teK2ulsiZzN7wi7Du9rNg=w2400)


This turned out to work satisfactorily although, even at this width, the teeth did require a bit of filing to get them to mesh smoothly.  Here I show the finished gear or more accurately, gear arc.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lSRQfTOJL6qFKDf4lLXOj8E6jBPybymCxr-LpHZAvm9b9q1yQevS3dB8tutK4TsMIFIMPfUbr9EUauoOSmXTm6ue-QT_06t73_ZzLEWlzZVaLqZsQA0yNAitPl1aPforWPaphsX-Hg=w2400)


With all the gears behind me I moved on to making the kick start bracket and petal.  The photo below shows the bracket and was a sort-of fun doo-dad to make and got me scratching my head a bit to work out the steps.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n7UCNMkLATvw7SNB8fwRKhhlYEmDWfUL0Wi7KQ5jnYgGBjsuXwhX_psw9jMvt8ZOcU6apUE_iQaueU3PlPXxaiVcgsx8qqVZZ9cyOoymmJMqsKzkGeJwgzoCseN9Dq3PbkZI5bq8tw=w2400)


The petal was next and though I would have preferred to use aluminum to make the fabrication easier, there is quite a bit of stress and rubbing at the joint between the petal and bracket so I thought steel was a better choice.  Steel sure did make fabrication tougher though.  Below is a photo of the complete assembled mechanism on the engine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S1iXSXPbxhz5M_2veZPNWGL69cN3bHAInEc9b8qBGZFFPOLmT1mOKRxd82p2XYwFeMJCCCzs_nySYCdvCX8s-tokLaFPkljyQ5s20XlF5d1eh1Op2abY8y9K47uhiivMtqk8NXIlTQ=w2400)


Here is another view:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ICijrBwofn_sXSTlYufRZriWTMeOM2l2ATA7OFXSwV8MjW65aFb1fbfTl4ZZCP-siecQ6VpLj0SCSaL0CMVVlLqZY7t-_u-KgnJRKZyeMUMb-SW7l_SkKr45fxddC4EgQay4MWRlqw=w2400)


Finally, I give you a video of the mechanism in action.  I’m really pleased with how smoothly this operates.  At first I was thinking it might be for “looks” only but I’m thinking it might actually work well enough to be used to start the engine.  Time will tell.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4s9ZeOqsiMQ
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on July 29, 2019, 04:25:05 PM
Hello Craig,

That is super neat and works so smooth :ThumbsUp:

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on July 29, 2019, 08:03:24 PM
Splendid  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: That should be capable of starting the engine  :wine1:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Admiral_dk on July 29, 2019, 08:41:11 PM
Everything looks amazing so far - one could be forgiven for thinking that first pop is just around the corner  :thinking:    :cheers:     :popcorn:
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on August 28, 2019, 09:59:39 PM
Thanks for your comments Thomas, Roger, and Admiral.  Thanks for those of you silently stopping by too.

Wow, it’s been a month since I posted an update on this project.  I’ve spent some time in the shop this last month, but family vacations and other issues (like replacing all the windows in the o’le homestead) has been occupying the lion’s share of my time.

I did get to the Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association for their big show this August. I took the Frisco (which refused to show any signs of life at the show  :Mad: though it ran dependably the week before :facepalm:) and my Otto Langen atmospheric IC engine, which ran well all three days I was in attendance :ThumbsUp:.  I also got to spend some time with some of you folks that post here :cheers:.

A main objective while attending the show was to get some pictures, measurements, and information I require for my next project.  I’ll leave that out there as a teaser for now and not inform you of that project yet… but will tell you that the design work has already started :whoohoo:.

Well, back to this little LA Lauson.  As you can see, I have the blower housing and fuel tank made and installed, along with a few other odds and ends.  I still need to do a little sheet metal work, plumbing, and more odds and ends before I’ll call it done.  This engine ran before I put it away a year ago and I haven’t tried to start it since then. I also want to do a little re-work on the carburetor and then I should be ready to see how well it runs.

A few photos of progress to date:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NRxIeLG73NtFyeZA9HeMdXzV6S2yM_z-ZhhCFk1eoa11OYWstGg0c-CF3yF4CsuUVsSW8hkx_56z66iaobXJNvGCyDdIgssVHDf2r2FZM4ub14KCSCttJdMHcyYm87QSxatusHLk_A=w2400)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NaaTadQf0Xp-1YMncHqg1huk0NU2X9CMFwHiYazloRH8jcz13pgielQEkLmlqecuIJOwDL0FtnwLYD-mtOz_-E-7nn4aLWakjnhE65NXLVeq_vAwpSPH3hkNEpNA2EdgHVEtwHM9nw=w2400)
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: gbritnell on August 29, 2019, 12:32:38 AM
Hi Craig,
The engine looks super and the start gears came out great.
gbritnell
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Roger B on August 29, 2019, 07:28:26 AM
Looks good  :praise2:  :praise2: Hope to see a video of the kick start working soon  :)  :wine1:

I know you moved away from the idea of making a magneto but maybe it is possible. How do the dimensions of the Minimag compare to your engine?

http://minimagneto.co.uk/documents/FMK001GA.pdf
Title: Re: Lauson LA build
Post by: Craig DeShong on August 29, 2019, 01:37:29 PM
Roger

Pretty neat little device.  It wouldn't do in this case since the magneto needs to allow the crankshaft to pass through it and there isn't enough room to fit it under the flywheel and drive it with a gear or belt.

I have a VW Lauson I built several years ago, where I made a "fake" magneto just to house the points.  I was thinking this might be perfect for it but some quick measuring shows it's too big for that application also.

Thanks for passing on this idea though.  Might have a use for it yet in some future project.
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal