Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: Jasonb on September 16, 2012, 08:02:10 PM
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Some of you may have seen in the past me mention my intension to build this engine in a bigger size, well I?ve started.
It will be based on the 1/12th scale model by Anthony Mount that was serialised in EIM and also reproduced in his second book. Plans are also available from Bruce Engineering (http://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/sections/stationary-engines/anthony-mount-models/easton-Andersons-Grasshopper-Beam-Engine.asp) as well as castings.
I intend to double the size to 1/6th scale and having recently obtained some photos of the original engine will try to make mine truer to that. This will result in an engine with the following spec.
Length 15 ??
Width 10 ??
Height 14?
Flywheel dia 10 ??
Bore & stroke 1 7/8x 2?
The prototype was quite a small beam engine, most people think of the large waterworks pumping engines when a beam engine is mentioned but this one was smaller and would likely have been used in a mill or factory to drive overhead line shafting. That?s why it can be built at a relatively large 1/6th scale and still fit the flywheel on my lathe (just).
I probably won?t do a bit by bit build but just show some of the more interesting parts which will mostly be the fabrication of the items that are supplied as castings in the Bruce model and anything else that I think others may be interested in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/Grasshopperengineframeend.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/Grasshopperenginecylinderend.jpg)
J
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I?ll make a start with the two crankshaft pedestalls, these are basically the same except the outboard one is longer to compensate for not sitting on the engines base casting.
I started by machining some cast iron block to 2? x 11/16? section then mounted it on its side in the mill vice and using the ARC function on the DRO cut a ?? radius quadrant with querk on one edge.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0786.jpg)
And then the opposite edge
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0787.jpg)
The same process was carried out on the other edges until I had two embryo pedestals, the bases were cut to 4? long from 1x3/8 flat steel and drilled for mounting bolts and small discs added for a raised ?cast? area around the hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0788.jpg)
The CI blocks were then drilled and tapped so they could be screwed and loctited to the bases, Yes there is a place for socket head screws on period engines and that place is out of sight
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0789.jpg)
Once the loctite had set I could locate the bearing heights from the base of the fabrication and using the boring head these were cut to 7/8? dia, note the plug gauge in the second photo used to ensure the hole matched the already machined bearings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0792.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0794.jpg)
This work was done before I got the photos of the original from which I can see that the bearings should have had flat tops but I?ll stick with a bit of artistic licence. The tops were radiused using the ARC function again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0796.jpg)
Then a ?? endmill was used to cut flats for the nuts to seat on and a 3/8? hole bored for a boss to take the oil cups. Holes were drilled for the studs, clearance down to the ctr line and tapped below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0798.jpg)
A slitting saw was the fitted and used to split the blocks in two.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0801.jpg)
A bit of hand work was then required to round off all the external corners to help get that cast look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0807.jpg)
Followed by an application of JB Weld and plastic metal to fillet all the internal corners.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0820.jpg)
While that lot set I machined up some 1BA studs, washers, nuts and locknuts. Finally the filler was smoothed off and a coat of primer sprayed on to see if the filler looked OK, I think it did.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0823.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0824.jpg)
J
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Well if the rest of the engine are up to the standard of those bearings Jason it will be an absolute cracker.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I've never used the rad function on the DRO thats certainly sown me what it capable of.
I'll be quetly watching the rest of the build with great interest.
Stew
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Jason, I am looking forward to this :ThumbsUp:.
I had not seen those photos of the original engine before. I now realise how much Anthony simplified the original model. I must try not to go back and "fix" things now that I have a better idea what they should look like. The good news is that the engine in the photo is not sporting a governor belt and neither is mine :ROFL:.
Jo
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Thanks Stew & Jo
Stew, its the first time I have used that function with the Z axis and it took a while to figure out the book :shrug: trial and error won in the end. The X-Y combination is a lot easier to figure out.
Jo, the source for the photos has suggested that the engine drove line shafting with a 2:1 step up and that the governor took its drive from the shafting, the arrangement that it has now with the iffy support was likely a lash up when it was moved to preservation.
I'm not sure if having the photos was good or not, I've had to revise how I was going to do the base casting and also looks like I will need to add the baring holes to the flywheel :facepalm:
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the arrangement that it has now with the iffy support
That support :facepalm: no where did Anthony show how it was supposed to mount at the bottom. It lined up with one of the bearing blocks so I had no choice but to do what I felt was a bodge :shrug:. When I finally tracked down his engine and for that matter your photo's, I had actually mounted it in the correct place ;D.
Those baring holes do look nice :insane:.
Jo
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First rate fabrication. I know you don't want to over-document, but I hope you won't be stingy. I know a good educational opportunity when I see one.
I'm laughing at myself. I have cut a number of stepped arcs on my current project by printing out lists of coordinates and cranking to the numbers, checking off each point with a pencil. When I read this about the ARC function, I went out and checked my DRO manual (a really pretty nice product of the UK). Sure enough, my Newall DRO supports ARC. I know I've read it there before, but somehow never connected the dots.
Thanks for that!
--Tim
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Jason I to would like to see more of your built log. All of you engines and documents are first rate.
I do hope you share it with us, I am in this for the education myself.
Don
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That is great work, and great photography. This will be a very enjoyable thread as you usually provide.
What is the double eccentric set up for? Line shaft engines are not usually reversed and I don't see any linkage. Is it some sort of adjustable cutoff?
Jerry
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Beautiful work Jason!
Dave
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Just a little off topic but I thought some of you guys would like to see this video of a Grasshooper in steam, its at the Manchester Museum of Science And Industry, this particular engine was used to haul trucks hence it fitted with a slip eccentric so that it can be reversed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV7o4b0Mvfo
Stew
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I'll see what I can do about extending the build log.
The two eccentrics drove Meyer Expansion valve gear which cuts the steam off early to make for more economic running. On the model one is a dummy the other driving a standard slide valve.
J
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The two eccentrics drove Meyer Expansion valve gear which cuts the steam off early to make for more economic running. On the model one is a dummy the other driving a standard slide valve.
J
Which reminds me: Be carefull when you drill the steam inlet as it can break through into that dummy outside (second) gland packing "gap" :facepalm:.
Jo
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Amazing start Jaon. Looking at the original pictures and you usual attention to detail, this will make for a very elegant model. Looking forward to following along!
Bill
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This looks mighty cool Jason. I'm climbing aboard
Steve
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Wow, that is a great start. I am in for the rid eon this one. Please keep up the great posts!
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The cylinder top cover started as a disc sawn off a length of 80mm dia cast iron bar, this was held in the outside jaws and the internal spigot formed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0821.jpg)
It was then revered in the chuck and held by the spigot while the top profile was machined I copied the shape in the photos rather than that of Anthony Mount's (AM from now on) design, the curve was done freehandand then fine tuned with a file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0828_zps96c0df7f.jpg)
Then over to the mill and the centre was located
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0829_zps578bb923.jpg)
The PCD function on the DRO was used to place the stud holes around the edge and the ones for the gland studs. I found on the Benson that if I doubled up the fixings then they seemed too big so on this engine I will be going buy what looks right rather than just double the size of everything.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0830_zps1f53150c.jpg)
The photo of the full size suggests there is a recess in the top of the piston rod packing gland to catch oil from the drip feed oiler so this was added rather than a plain gland as per AM's drawings. I like to make the studs and fixings as I go along so here it is done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0831_zps712bf3f6.jpg)
J
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Wow, the size difference is very noticeable with this cover. Great stuff.
Jason, one thing I did question with my engine was providing some sort of oiling point. One the original design one of the studs handed smack on the line of the steam port :facepalm: I tried putting a longer stud in but in the end decided to put a dummy stud in it and use this for oiling.
Jo
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The prototype has a large air pump that would have blown cold air through a condenser, this can be made as a working pump or a dummy, I'm going to do the dummy at the moment but may add some internals at a later date.
I was in two minds whether to machine the pump body from a solid lump of 40mm cast iron block or fabricate, as this will be a heavy engine when done I opted for fabrication as it will be a bit lighter. A rummage around failed to find a suitable bit of 3/16" plate for the base flange so a few offcuts were welded together and then machined to give the required 2.5" square followed buy boring out for the tube with a boring head.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0836_zps638073cc.jpg)
While the boring head was set to the correct dia I used it to flycut the end of a 3/4" bar to form a boss for the air pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0838_zpse2406873.jpg)
The top flange was cut from 1/4" plate and a stepped hole bored in the lathe, then holding by this hole the outside was turned round but left a little oversize.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0837_zps0732c7a4.jpg)
The tube that goes between the two flanges was made from some that was a bit too big in diameter so I worked out what needed to be cut from the circumference and cut out the waste. Here you can see the parts ready to be soldered together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0839_zps35a927a1.jpg)
And after silver soldering
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0840_zpsd8740900.jpg)
After sitting in the pickle while I watched the F1 qualifying and a quick scrub the assembly was put back on the lathe and the top flange turned true to the base and to final size of 2.5" dia x 7/32" thick.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0842_zpsab919e07.jpg)
A bit more cleaning had it looking like this after which I added JB weld to all the internal corners to get that filleted cast look and left it overnight to harden.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0843_zpscc1fbd96.jpg)
While the JB Weld was going off I made the top cover, very similar to the cylinder cover but as the curved top which is not shown on AM's drawings runs right down to the flat bolting surface it was not ideal to use a file to refine the shape without marking the flat face. Solution was to hold a bit of bar in the tool post to act as a rest and then hand turn the curve, this posed photo will give an idea of how I did it with a woodturning scraper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0844_zpsd1afe723.jpg)
This morning the JB Weld could be smoothed off and a bit of primer added, then machine the gland and screw it all together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0847_zps8e755f5f.jpg)
Jo on the photos there seems to be a small square headed plug at the top of the cylinder casting which I may use as an oil point and yes it is bloody big ;)
J
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I have been trying to find a few more details about the original engine. I have two of George Watkins books (Vol 7 Stationary Steam engine of GB & The Steam Engine in Industry Vol 1) that give this engine. I am assuming you have one or other of these, they both have the same square on photo of this engine.
The later book mentions that the main valve eccentric was keyed to the crankshaft, with the expansion valve eccentric bolted to it. The earlier book identifies that it drove the gas exhausters via the belt.
Jo
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Great build, Jason. I'm following along with interest!
Simon
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Jo, no I don't have the books just the two photos I posted at the start which were sent to me by someone on ME forum, He may have got them from the Watkins archive that is held by English Heritage as he mentioned that in his mail. He said that when AM drew up the model he had not seen these photos, just the square on one.
I best not buy thos ebooks as I will want to be making something else, already got my eye on this little red number, would be nice at about 1/3rd scale. :LickLips:
http://www.prestonservices.co.uk/
J
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I don't know how I missed this thread. Fantastic.
I'd never seen how a fillet was done (or at least not like that). Very interesting.
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Lovely fabrication and the machining to go with it. I bought some solder, flux and a blowlamp but have yet to dip my toe. The possibiliites fabrication opens up are very attractive.
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Next up was the pulley that would have taken the drive from the engine upto overhead lineshafting via a flat belt. The photos show a few differences between the original and AM's interpretation such as 4 spokes vs 6, a split clamped hub and a narrower rim.
I started with the hub, a bit of 1" bar was drilled 1/4" and parted off then two shallow 3/8" grooves milled in opposite sides to take a couple of lengths of 3/8" sq bar
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0855.jpg)
The three parts were silver soldered together then drilled for the clamping bolts after which they were cleaned up and all edges rounded off. I subsequently drilled the hub out a bit under finished size so there was less metal to heat up on the next soldering stage.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0856.jpg)
I drew the pulley out full size on a bit of paper and used that to determine the positions of the various arcs to form the spokes. These were then marked out on some 1/8" sheet and cut & filed to shape, testing against the drawing for fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0864.jpg)
A nice man on e-bay provided some 100mm OD x 4mm wall EWR tube and a suitable length was sawn off, the ends were tidied up overlength on the lathe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0866.jpg)
When heating the rim of a flywheel or pully it tends to expand which can make the gap between rim & spoke too large for the solder or pull against the hub and distort the finished item when it cools. I decided to solder in two stages, the first being the spokes to the rim. Each spoke was set on a nut to pack it upto height and an off cut used as a makeshift hub, the spokes were then solderd into place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0867.jpg)
A quick clean up of the inner spoke ends and the hub was set in place with a toolmakers clamp to ensure the previously soldered lugs would not move. This way I could heat the hub and not have the rim expand.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0868.jpg)
And here it is after a dip in the pickle and a light wire brush to remove flux.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0870.jpg)
Back to the lathe held it by the inside of the rim to bore the hub true and profile the rim to a slight crown. If you look at the lines on the rim you will see it is in 5 sections, the middle is parallel to the lathe axis, the ones either side of that are at 1deg and the outer section at 2deg, these will be blended later into a shallow crown.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0873.jpg)
And here is the finished pully, you will see that before soldering I added a 1/64th slot 0.040" deep around the middle of the hub to look like a dummy split line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0892.jpg)
Just a little work to clean up the solder fillets, coat of paint and then mount on an arbour to blend the rim and thats another part off the list.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0893.jpg)
J
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I really like watching you work, Jason. Thanks.
--Tim
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Nice :ThumbsUp:,
I keep looking at my engine as you make this and thinking I really should go back and correct that on my model :noidea:. But I mustn't :hammerbash: otherwise nothing will ever get completed.
Jo
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That looks really good Jason.
I have to imagine there were some anxious moments while soldering the spokes and hoping nothing moved. ;D
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Jason I wish I could sit in your shop a just watch you work. You always amaze me with your skill and craftsmanship. I hope one day I can even think of doing things like you just demonstrated.
Don
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Nice build Jason!
Dave
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nicely made pulley, Jason. I particularly like the false groove to give the impression of a split hub.
following the build with great interest.
Peter
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Beautiful work on that pulley Jason and your attention to details is amazing as always.
Bill
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I have followed several of your excellent builds, and not surprisingly this one is up to your usual high standard of craftsmanship. I would also endorse what others have said about covering as much of this build as your time will allow, as a lot can be learned from your techniques, especially by those of us relatively new to the game. :ThumbsUp:
All the Best
Les
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Thanks for all the kind comments, now can you tell what this is yet?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0895.jpg)
Two discs were cut off my ever shrinking piece of 80mm dia cast iron bar by hand to approx 1/2" thick and are to become the eccentric straps. These were then poped into the lathe and faced off to give a finished thickness of 3/8".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0897.jpg)
I then did a quick bit of layout with a pencil to see roughly how much I could take off to get a flat reference face, this and the next few stages were all done with the discs held vertically in the mill vice and cut with a 1/2" endmill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0898.jpg)
With the reference face established the discs were blued and marked out with the height gauge and the four extremities cut, you will notice I have left an 1/8" strip in the middle to allow for cutting and cleaning up the face.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0900.jpg)
The flat faces for the bolts were then machined and some of the waste removed just by eyeballing clear of the line. The holes were also drilled at this setting. In addition I formed a flat to screw an oil cup into, these can be seen on the original photo but are not on AM's drawings
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0901.jpg)
The discs were then cut in half with a hacksaw and machined back to the line, the socket head screws are only there while there is more machining to be done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0902.jpg)
The centres were marked and the strap mounted in the 4-jaw to bore the hole to 1 3/4".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0904.jpg)
They were then held by this hole on the rotary table to clean up the outside profile using a 1/4" FC-3 cutter
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0905.jpg)
I then knocked up some filing buttons to round off the bolting lugs, quick tip when doing this the nut often works loose so give it a quick tap with a hammer which makes it slightly oval and it won't come loose again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0906.jpg)
Add a couple of fitted bolts, nuts & locknuts and thats them done save for a bit of clean up before final assembly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0907.jpg)
Any one want to guess what percentage of the original discs ended up as swarf? answeres in a day or two.
J
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Looks great Jason, you made that look easy. Still following with interest.
Don
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Once they're clear of the bar....75%...
Higher if you include cutting free of the original bar.
Dave
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you made that look easy.
Agreed.
Looks great.
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Well Dave as you were the only taker I suppose the prize goes to you, not far off as 81% ended up on the floor once they were off the bar. Now just let me know where to send that 317g of CI swarf ;)
With the eccentric straps done the next logical parts were the sheaves, they were roughed out from 2" bar when taking a break from sawing off the CI for the straps.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0894.jpg)
With the straps completed they could be used to test fit the final sizing of the sheaves, I then parted them most of the way through finishing off with a hacksaw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0910.jpg)
Then poped back in the lathe and using the soft jaws they were faced off to finished thickness
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG09124.jpg)
The throw was then marked out and punched with the optical punch and once clocked true in the 4-jaw the hole was bored.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG09122.jpg)
Just a couple of grub screw holes to finish them off and here they are with their straps.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0921.jpg)
Jason
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Hey Jason!
Just under a pound of swarf?! Not bad! I would have expected more! :Lol:
Nice looking parts Jason! :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Dave
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Just catching up with this build and am stunned at the effort put into it. I'm now watching intently as I love beam engines.
Pete
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For the base of the engine I had intended to use a length of 125x65x15 PFC (parallel flange channel) that I had conviently over ordered on an order for some other work related structural steel. Having now got pictures of the actual engine I had to rethink my methods therefore I will make the top of the base from 5mm steel plate and the sides from 1 1/2" x 5/8" alloy.
You know when you are building bigger engines because you can't cut right through the part with a hacksaw ::) , so the angle grinder with a thin cutting disc was used to complete the cuts and give me a piece approx 5" x17"
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0922.jpg)
After some very basic layout using a pencil and marker the sheet was fixed to the mill table on some MDF packing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0924.jpg)
The first job was to add another hold down in the middle of some waste followed by cutting the two holes for the pump and cylinder base using a boring head and their associated fixing holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0925.jpg)
As work progressed I had to reset the plate as its length was just over the 360mm travel of the X3s table. Having studied the old photos again tonight I need to make this rectangular hole larger but its easy enough to reset on teh mill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0938.jpg)
The final bit of profiling was done on the rotary table as the crank hole needs to have a rounded end where it meets the cylinder base.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0939.jpg)
And here it is just about done except for a few odd holes and the above mentioned cutout.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0940.jpg)
J
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that I had conviently over ordered on an order
hee hee. I do that too. The 'just in cases'. Although most of my over ordering is in the form of bottles filled with nectar. Favorite phrase...'better get two - just in case'.
I always enjoy reading your threads. A good example of what I strive for but have a long way to go.
Looks great and I'm anxious for more.
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hee hee. I do that too. The 'just in cases'. Although most of my over ordering is in the form of bottles filled with nectar. Favorite phrase...'better get two - just in case'.
And just in case.....................A case is better than 2, by a factor of 6. :cartwheel:
Best Regards
Bob
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hee hee. I do that too. The 'just in cases'. Although most of my over ordering is in the form of bottles filled with nectar. Favorite phrase...'better get two - just in case'.
And just in case.....................A case is better than 2, by a factor of 6. :cartwheel:
Best Regards
Bob
8) :DrinkPint:
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You cranked that one out pretty quick Jason!
Nice !
Dave
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You make it all look easy as always Jason, I am still envious of you work. Still following with great interest.
Don
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That's very cool !! Very nice job and will be watching along as well.
Dave
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Can't believe I've missed this. Lovely work as always Jason. Do you have any more pics of the original engine? Side on? There's a small half beam engine at Beamish but i've misplaced the photos I took. Looks similar if I recall correctly.
Nick
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No those are the only two I have.
A quick Google brings up a Stephenson & Co engihe at beamish
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jncarter1962/8026075773/
But the second one down this page is a similar E&A
http://oldenginehouse.users.btopenworld.com/othermuseums.htm
There are also a couple of very similar Easton & Amos ones
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3086865
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2201061
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/
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You cranked that one out pretty quick Jason!
Nice !
Dave
Didn't he tho! Seems you only have to blink and he's taken a great leap forward.
Nice work, as always Jason
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Thanks Jason, I found my pic of the beamish one too ... totally different isn't it!!!
The Brunell castings must be based one one of those Eastern & Amos ones then. Nice engines.
I was trying to work out whether the stuart half beam config. was real, the centreline of the crank being ofset from the rod quite substantially. It gives more room but I suspect they did it to utilise the same parts.
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Nick the Bruce (not Brunell) one is based on the same engine that I show at the start of the thread but Anthony Mount only had a side view which is in one of Watkins books so had to make some assumptions and also simplify some parts to make them easier to cast.
The more you look the more differences you see
J
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Sorry Jason I got muddled up, you're right, I'd seen the Easton and Anderson on Bruce engineering and I've got some plans of an Easton and Amos that were in Model Engineer a long time ago.
:ThumbsUp:
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The cylinder of this engine is raised above the bed casting buy what can be described as an upturned can with flanges top and bottom and a few webs thrown in for good measure. So starting off with a couple of squares of 5mm steel plate approx 3" square these were put in the 4-jaw and suitable holes bored.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0948.jpg)
They were then held by the newly formed hole to turn the outside a little over finished diameter having first sawn the corners off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0949.jpg)
A piece of scaffold tube became the donor for the central tube
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0936.jpg)
Here are the basic parts, the old rusty pole turned out quite nicely and there is also a brass top that will form the cylinder bottom cover so no risk of rusting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0950.jpg)
The two rings were then held on the rotary table to mill some location slots for the reinforcing webs
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0951.jpg)
And matching grooves cut along the tube. As I don't have a tube centre for the R/T tailstock the angle plate up against the end of the tube reduces any risk of it tilting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0952.jpg)
The webs were machined from various offcuts of 1/8" plate, here they are all held together to have the radius cut using a home ground radius corner cutter from a blunt slot drill, I prefer this type of cutter to a ball nose one as they remove metal quicker.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0958.jpg)
And here are all the parts ready to be silver soldered together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0959.jpg)
Seems a shame to make them all black and dirty
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0961.jpg)
A soak in the pickle soon sorted most of that out and it was then back onto the lathe to have all the finished surfaces machined to size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0964.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0969.jpg)
After a final clean up I added fillets to all the internal corners, as these are quite hard to get at to sand rather than use JBWeld I opted for milliput which is more like a putty and can be shaped and blended before it sets, a wet artists paintbrush helps as well as a ball ended tool.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0978.jpg)
And here it is with a bit of paint on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0982.jpg)
I'd like to say the elongated top holes are a special design feature but they are the result of not having the work on centre when setting out the PCD
J
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I'd like to say the elongated top holes are a special design feature but they are the result of not having the work on centre when setting out the PCD
Looking good. I was wondering :thinking: about that single hole on that surface that is still round and above one of the flanges. I am not sure what it is for.
Jo
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Thats an 1/8" blind hole on the engines centre line I put in after the c**k up which will take a pin to keep things correctly in line, think I changed that photo for the one with the fillets while you were typing, this one shows the location pin hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0973.jpg)
J
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Jason that is some impressive bit of work. How did you hold the parts together to silver solder? You have top piece, side pieces and bottom piece. Do you have a special fixture to solder with?
Don
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Nothing to hold it together except itself.
If you look at the photo of it after soldering you will see the bottom flange sits on two bricks so the tube drops in and is stopped from falling by the larger dia middle section. The six webs all have tennons on the end that locate into the radial slots, then the top flange drops on holding them all in place. Finally the brass end has a spigot that fits into the tube.
Just add heat and thats it.
J
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Thanks Jason, looking at the machining photos I see the tenons. I hadn't payed to much attention to them other then seeing you had cut them. I need to be more aware of the process to understand it better. That makes them lock in place which is very useful. Thanks for you very detailed photos.
Don
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The end frame pivots in a pair of bearing blocks, as they suited being silver soldered together I made the various parts from steel with a bit of machining allowance on the height.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1001.jpg)
The semi-circular receess in the main blocks were cut by clamping the two blocks together and drilling then milling down the joint.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0995.jpg)
And here are all the bits soldered together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1002.jpg)
After a quick clean-up the tops were sawn off and then milled down to thickness. The holes in the base were tapped and those in the top opened out to clearance size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1004.jpg)
I could then bolt the halves together and bore the holes for the bearings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1014.jpg)
The final step was to add some thin brass to get the correct look around the fixing holes, drill and tap for the oil cup and then add some studs and bronze bearings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1015.jpg)
Finally add a bit of paint and we are one step further to completion, I think I will drop the nuts down to the next hex size as they look a touch big.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1036.jpg)
J
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The semi-circular recess in the main blocks were cut by clamping the two blocks together and drilling then milling down the joint.
Interesting way of doing it I would have probably left them as a single bar, drilled the three holes in a bar and then used a slitting saw to part off the two wanted pieces.
Coming together :ThumbsUp:
Jo
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Newbie question: Could those have been made from a single part rather than silver soldering?
They look great BTW.
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I like the way the parts look. May have to do more silver soldering in the future.
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Jason, I just can't get enough of your seeing your work and then you make it all look so dam easy. I for me it's not. Impressive work as usual.
Don
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I think I will drop the nuts down to the next hex size as they look a touch big.
:thinking: I always feel that it is ok to use smaller sized bolt heads due to space considerationse the washers underneath make up the surface area but nuts :o. You still need the same sized washers but IMHO it looks horrid.
I prefer to make stepped studs and to reduce the top stud thread size for the smaller nut and the smaller diameter washer looks more in scale and helps to provide a greater surface area for spreading the load. 8)
Jo
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Jo doing them that way I could use two bits of 1" x 0.5" bar thinned down to 7/16. To drill across the bar I would have needed 1.5" bar to get the height and the next size I had was 2" so about twice the metal used. Also I would need 4 holes not 3 to get a full semi circle due to the blade kerf.
I'll be making or altering the washers as required. Actually there are very few washers used on this engine if you look at the old photos.
Zee, they could have been made in two parts buy there is no easy way to make the half round sections meet the base if doing it from a single block. If you look back in the thread you can see how I did the larget crankshaft bearing blocks from two main parts.
Diamond Chequer plate is next on the menu :)
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Jason, I hadn't checked in in a while but it is coming together very nicely. I admire you silver soldering skills and the look that the built up parts give. All of this should make for a stunning model for sure!!
Bill
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The old photos show a piece of diamond chequer plate below the beam suppot pivot that is missing from AM's model, this was most likely to give access to the air pump below the base. There are some sheets of so called chequer plate sold for models but they are not that accurate and even the ones for 7.25" locos looked too small so I had to make some.
Starting with a piece of 1/8" brass I used a 3/16 cutter in the mill to make passes 0.020" deep with a rib of 0.020" wide between at an angle of 15deg, its not that easy to see due to reflections and tool marks but hopefully the second shot shows whats going on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1017.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1018.jpg)
Next the piece of brass was stood up in the vice at an angle of 15deg the other way and a 0.025" slitting saw used to cut grooves at the same spacing that teh milling had done cutting through the ribs and into the base metal by another 0.020". Thats a bit of 1/2" flat bar I have got the brass clamped to as it would flap about too much on its own.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1021.jpg)
Some 0.020" brass sheet was held between scraps of MDF and the same slitting saw used to cut narrow strips off the brass, these were over height at about 1/16" wide.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1023.jpg)
These strips were then given a light coat of soft solder paint pushed into the saw slots and heated to melt the solder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1024.jpg)
After a clean up they were machined back to height, the stray ends removed and the plate cut to final size
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1026.jpg)
A quick spray of primer and it looks half decent.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1037.jpg)
As a side not the set up for cutting the brass strips could also be used to trim a larger piece of timber down to provide nice miniature planks for cylinder lagging, these are the MDF offcuts but I don't think that sthe right material for this particular engine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1025.jpg)
J
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Jason some excellent work as usual, but it seems a shame to do all that work to make a brass diamond chequer plate and then paint it. But I did learn something from it. I can see this engine is going to be superb looking model.
Don
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Some 0.020" brass sheet was held between scraps of MDF and the same slitting saw used to cut narrow strips off the brass, these were over height at about 1/16" wide.
.....
These strips were then given a light coat of soft solder paint pushed into the saw slots and heated to melt the solder
.....
As a side not the set up for cutting the brass strips could also be used to trim a larger piece of timber down to provide nice miniature planks for cylinder lagging, these are the MDF offcuts but I don't think that they are the right material for this particular engine
J
Nice technique for cutting off the brass strips 8)
Solder paint is something that people often forget. :ThumbsUp:
MDF...... I can't say I remember seeing many engines clad it that. :Jester:
It does look good.
Jo
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'Enginuity' - Mother of Invention :headscratch:
Very nice thinking indeed Jason, brilliant approach. :ThumbsUp:
I'm still catching up from time to time - not as often as I'd like but enough to see you are making a cracking job of it as is Jo on her TTC. Both of you are inspiring and certainly helping to increase the old withdrawal syptoms but I'm somewhat distracted on something else at the moment. Hope to get on to a new IC around Xmas :).
Keep it up - Ramon
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Wow Jason, I would never have thought of that method for making the diamond plate. That is one to remember for sure, thanks.
Lee
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Very nice. I could tell from the responses it was going to be a good post. I was not disappointed!
That was a lot of work it seemed to me but it came out excellent.
I have to go look up solder paint.
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You may remember that back when I started on the base in this thread (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,705.msg9578.html#msg9578) that I mentioned the sides would be built up with aluminium strip, well I happened to be passing my local stockholders and poped in to pick up the ali.
First job was to machine a 1/16" rebate into the top edge to locate it against the edge of the steel plate, I could then attach the ali with some countersunk screws.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1027.jpg)
Following that the mill vice was clamped down with a bit of packing under one end so that it was slightly tilted, this gave me the desired "draught" angle to mimic a casting and the majority of the waste was machined away with a 5/8 end mill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1029.jpg)
That was followed up with a 1/2" ball nose cutter to put the cove on the bottom edge, the top was rounded with a home ground cutter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1030.jpg)
This left the ends square so they went back into the mill to have the profile put on the ends.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1032.jpg)
I also cut some pockets into the edging under the bearing supports to take brackets which were given a shallow concave face. The rebates of the four edgings were coated with a slow set epoxy adhesive and screwed into position, the joints and screw holes filled with JB Weld which was also used to stick the brackets in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1033.jpg)
Once set the JB Weld was cleaned up, fillets added with Milliput and then the whole thing given a quick blast of primer, here it is with a few of the other parts in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1103.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1104.jpg)
J
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That looks good, I may have to steal that idea for the base on my S&P :ThumbsUp: How are you getting the paint to go on right now that the weather has turned cold?
You seem to have rather large nuts :embarassed: bolting down the cylinder base. Where you going to keep them that size?
Jo
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Oh wow! Jason that is looking awesome. You never cease to amaze me. Love the prime job and cast look is that JB weld you are using?
Don
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Jo they are just ones I put on quickly for last week and will likely drop down one size, they are already smaller than what the doubled up size from AM's original would be. Probably not helped by me using the correct 12No fixings rather than his 8No.
Stand the can of paint and the part near a radiator for a while and then spray, leave to dry above the radiator
Yes its JB Weld that you can see Don
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That looks stunning, can't believe how neat the fillets are, you would just never know. Different class compared to the models I'm used to seeing. :ThumbsUp:
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One of the larger fabrications on this engine is the rocker frame that supports one end of the beam, I started off by making the bearing housings that go at the top of the frame, these were machined down to 7/16" from 1/2" material and drilled tapping size then I started to machine the semi circular ends.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1043.jpg)
A drill was placed in the bolt holes to act as a pivot and the curve roughed out in stages and the facets were then filed smooth
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1044.jpg)
The blocks were then cut in half and a male and female formed and the holes tapped in the body and opened up to clearance in the caps
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1047.jpg)
The hole for the bronze bearings was then drilled and finished with the boring head
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1049.jpg)
A small amount was skimmed off the bottom half so that when the cap is screwed down it will grip the bearing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1050.jpg)
A hole was tapped in the cap to take an oiler
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1051.jpg)
Finally a spigot was formed on the end of the bearing block to lacate in the side members of the frame
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1078.jpg)
I had been trying out a few methods to make the oval sections for the frame and in the end settled on compressing 10mm steel tube in the vice followed by a quick lick on the linisher, this is a short sample and is what I used for the sides and X braces, the two curved parts were machined from flat bar and bent to shape
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG0911.jpg)
Jumping forward a bit all the tubes were cut and scribed to fit together and then placed into a jig made from some structural C section which was notched to hold two rods at the correct spacing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1110.jpg)
Some fire bricks were packed up in the channel to help support the parts, correction fluid applied to the two rods then the bearing blocks were clamped to these and all the parts assembled before being silver soldered together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1082.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1085.jpg)
After a bit of a clean-up, lick of JB Weld and a coat of primer this is how it turned out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1105.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1106.jpg)
Next up are the beams
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Looks as good as I remember it. :ThumbsUp:
Question: when you look to make the stands you are milling the curves on the sides. I would have probably gone for drilling holes, sawing off mid way and then silver soldering in a piece of round. (Have I asked this before :facepalm2: ) What is the advantage of the way you have chosen to do it?
And, more questions, :o what's with the block on the top of the machine vice.
Jo
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Jason, I am discoursed every time I read your thread. You just make it look so easy. Can you give us a small coarse on another thread as to how you go about Silver Soldering and making it look so good. Your skills are outstanding.
Don
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Ends up a very impressive piece. Enjoy seeing how it was fabricated.
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Jo, I did use the hole and soldered rod method on the bearing blocks that hold the bottom of the frame, the main advantage in this case of making it from solid is that there was no risk of it falling apart when soldered into the main assembly :ThumbsUp: and that I could tighten the blocks onto the rod at the correct distance apart
The little block(s) on the machine vice are just a clamp on stop which allows the part to be held in the same position without having to locate the edge each time it is moved to machine the 4 edges. You can buy girly pink ones from Allendale (http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/edge-technology-vice-jaw-stop.html) but I just made mine from a bit a 3/8" square, two lengths of silversteel and a cap screw. Mine will also allow the vice to close down to 1/16"
Don I'll see what I can do.
J
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You can buy girly pink ones
No good for me then :Jester:
Looks like another little gadget to add to my never ending :facepalm2: list of useful things to make.
Jo
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Awesome looking Jason. You do make it look easy.
Remind me again the use of correction fluid. Dam for the solder?
One of my first tools I made was a vice stop. (Got some good tutoring from Marv.)
Very handy.
It hadn't occurred to me that I should have, could have, made it so the vice closes down more.
That would've been a help sometimes.
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Remind me again the use of correction fluid. Dam for the solder?
More of a mask than a dam Zee, but yes. You need the proper stuff tho, not the water based.
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Next up is the beam or more presisely the beams as there are a pair mounted back to back with all the rods etc fitted between. I started out with two pieces of aluminium flat bar 3/8"x 2" just over the required 11" long and squared off one end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1089.jpg)
They were then blued and stood vertically on the squared end and clipped to an angle plate to mark out the hole positions. Mostly now I don't do this prefering to just locate an edge/end and use the DRO to position the holes but I wanted to mark in the outer diameters of the bosses.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1091.jpg)
Here the bosses have been scribed in and the outline drawn to touch the various radii
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1092.jpg)
The beams were then clocked true on the mill and the holes all drilled using the DRO, the largest hole was finished with the boring head. I tend to use stub length drills in the common sizes as it saves having to crank the mill head up and down so much, they are also more rigid so tend not to wander.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1093.jpg)
The vertical bandsaw was used to trim off the waste from around the outside and then the edges were flycut back to the layout lines.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1094.jpg)
I set a pair of buttons in the back tee slot of the mill with a parallel against them, this then gave me a reference face to set the beams against rather than having to clock them in for each of the eight edges. I then used a 3 flute FC-3 type cutter to remove half the thickness of the plate. The edges were offset from my ref parallel and I stopped just clear of the scribed boss outlines.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1096.jpg)
With as much metal removed as possible I setup the rotary table and using various mounting mandrels proceded to round off the two ends and around each boss
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1097.jpg)
This shows all the milling completed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1100.jpg)
Rather than use a ball nose or radius corner cutter to do all this milling I opted for a square edged one as they are far quicker at removing metal and there were also several cutter diameters needed but only one fillet radius. I put all the fillets in using Milliput putty as there is no need for any structural strength here, its just cosmetic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1102.jpg)
A good heavy coat of primer was stippled into the recesses to give a little "cast" texture followed by a blast from the spray can.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1107.jpg)
The remaining work was just carful turning to produce all the various spindles and spacers, this used about 18" of mostly 5/8" dia steel rod and luckily it all went together without getting jammed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1118.jpg)
J
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Totally amazing Jason...not only quality machine work, but a perfect combination of sculpting and artwork thrown in for good measure. This one is a real beauty and a true inspiration!!
Bill
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Still following, still learning, still amazed. Great work.
Jim
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:NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: Brilliant, I am very impressed 8)
I like the look of those very thin parallells they must come in handy and I see one of the offcuts has already found itself used as a packing piece ;) . What technique did you use to set the beam up for fly cutting the outside to make sure both were at the same angle?
Jo
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Superb Jason. The quality of work is amazing.
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You my friend are a medal artist, beautiful work.
Don
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With the beam and end support frame done I decided to tackle the cylinder next as this will eventually allow me to support the other end of the beam. I started with the base flange, this was sawn into a octagon from some 5/8"x4" flat brass bar and held in the 4-jaw to trepan out the centre. I went almost half way from each side then took it out of the lathe and gave the middle a whack with a hammer and the central disc dropped out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1120.jpg)
The bore was cleaned up and then used to hold the flange by while the outer edge was machined round.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1122.jpg)
I then preceeded to do the same for the top flange but from 1/4" thick material, it was just as I finished trepanning out the middle that I remembered I should not have cut the corners off :wallbang: so substituted a piece of 1/4" steel as I did not have another piece of brass large enough.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1126.jpg)
The main tube of the cylinder started life as a length of 2 1/2" hollow cast bronze
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1124.jpg)
The outside was turned down to 2.375" and spigots formed on the ends for the flanges to fit onto. At this stage the bore was left undersize for finishing after fabrication, the overall length was also 1/16" bigger than needed so the flanges could be skimmed back true to the finished bore.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1125.jpg)
A lump of bronze was sawn to give me a finished block of 3.25 x 1.5 x 1.75 and this was flycut to get all faces square.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1127.jpg)
Finally a bit of 1/8" brass sheet was cut to make the flange for the valve chest cover to bolt to and here are the roughed out parts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1128.jpg)
I used a boring head to cut the curved face of the valve chest
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1129.jpg)
The chest was then cut off at 20degrees, the chamber roughly hollowed out and the angled face flycut. I also cut a matching hole in the bolting flange and added a few 10BA CSK screws to hold the two together when soldered.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1132.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1148.jpg)
Starting to look a bit more like the original now
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1134.jpg)
As the cylinder was comming together it became obvious that I would have difficulty holding it to take any heavy cuts off once assembled as I could not get it into my fixed steady so I decided to do a bit more work on it before soldering. Also the valve chest needed quite a bit of heating to get the solder to flow and by removing any unwanted metal the bulk would be reduced making for slightly easier heating. Here is the cylinder barrel getting opened out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1147.jpg)
I also shaped the top flange, now you can see why I needed the corners, they will support the "A" frames which help retain the beam.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1149.jpg)
Once all the parts had been machined I silver soldered them together, It went OK but not what I would call perfect as it was hard to get enough heat into the big lumps of bronze. Once cleaned up I spent a long time clocking the cylinder true in the 4-jaw both for concentricity and alignment to the lathe axis, changed the QCTP to the 4-way that came with the lathe so I could mount a 7/8" boring bar and just skimmed the bore with several very light passes followed by similar light cuts to the top flange.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1152.jpg)
On a safety note, don't try this unless you know what you are doing there is a lot of unbalanced metal hanging a long way out the chuck. If in doubt then don't.
This post is getting a bit long now, next time I will true up the other faces and start adding the 64 assorted holes!!
J
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Still following along intently Jason...your fabrication skills...and the results...are simply amazing!!!
Bill
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I am watching and learning. This reminds me of my work so far on the S& P cylinder 8) which I must be a good girl and not get side tracked on to completing :slap:.
Sorry to hear of the top flange problem, I had wondered on why you had used the BMS. I am looking forward to hearing how you solved the challenge of the length of the steam ports ;).
Jo
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Still glued to my chair Jason, love the way you solder and cut metal. It looking great to me can't wait for your next post.
Don
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With as much metal removed as possible I setup the rotary table and using various mounting mandrels proceded to round off the two ends and around each boss
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1097.jpg)
This shows all the milling completed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1100.jpg)
J
Jason in this post where you show rounding the ends and the bosses on the rotary table do you do this by angle or by eye? Just done something similar where I did it by angle but found it difficult to get the ends of the cut to blend seamlessly into the straight sided cuts.
Cheers,
Simon.
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Eye and ear :)
J
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Skill indeed then! :praise2:
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I love watching you fabricate things....always straight forward and well planned out.
Nice one that cylinder assembly is.
:praise2:
Dave
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With the top of the cylinder turned true to the bore it was a simple job to bolt that surface to the mill table and machine the bottom and to get the final overall length.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1153.jpg)
After that the flange around the valve chest was skimmed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1151.jpg)
I then clamped the cylinder between two angle plates and finish machined the valve chest and drilled the ports. Anthony mount quite often uses drilled ports rather than milled slots which are a lot easier to deal with and seem to work just as well on engines that are unlikely to do any real work.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1159.jpg)
The exhaust passageway was then drilled through and the hole threaded and spot faced to 5/8". A similar hole was added on the other side for the steam inlet
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1161.jpg)
With the cylinder stood the right way up the centre was located and the two steam passages drilled down to the ports and milled through into the cylinder. These are a little closer to the outside edge than I would have ideally liked but not being 100% happy that the solder had flowed between tube and valve block I decided not to drill diagonally as this would pass through the joint line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1162.jpg)
The other end was tackled next, first by clocking the bore
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1164.jpg)
Then with clenched buttocks I proceeded to drill the two 4mm holes through the bronze, as you can see by the amount of drill left in the chuck jaws the holes are quite deep!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1165.jpg)
While at this setting I milled the passages as per the top, added stud holes and the two gland holes for the valve rods with their associated stud holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1166.jpg)
The 5BA valve chest cover mounting holes were than drilled and tapped
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1169.jpg)
There are several odd bosses and flanges on the casting these were knocked up and fixed with JB Weld
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1170.jpg)
And after a bit of a clean up and drilling the pipe flanges I gave the cylinder a coat of etch and this is how it looks at the moment, The last photo will give an idea of the size, final weight was 2.2kg or just short og 5lbs. I have also bonded on two rings of moisture resistant MDF to help support the planking that will be used to lag the cylinder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1201_zps750393ab.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1203_zpsd96534c2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1202_zps08b534fb.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1204_zps4ea81c19.jpg)
J
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Very nice :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
I see you got over that little problem of having one of the cylinder head studs in the middle of the steam passage, that caught me napping :ThumbsUp:
Then with clenched buttocks
:o Too much detail. But I am please your 4mm drill worked.
Jo
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Interesting you mentioned that about not drilling angled holes for ports when using a fabricated cylinder. I was looking at some plans the other day which uses a fabricated cyl and I was thinking yeah, but how can I guarantee the solder has completely filled the gap. It could play havoc if it hadn't so was thinking of using the same method as you. Suppose you're relying on the gasket a bit but there's always a bit of that anyway as most designs I've seen have a chamfer on the bore and cover. I came across a couple of designs the same as yours, sure I can drill an angled hole but they've always put me off for some reason. Beautiful work as always.
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Great looking cylinder. Interesting use of MDF. Not sure I would have come up with that.
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As the flange on the valve chest is angled the cover is not the usual flat plate so has to be angled to match the chest. There is also quite a radius to the top so I started out with a strip of brass and held this against a 1/2" rod in the mill vice. The Rod was set level on a pair of 123 blocks so the brass could be checked for true with a square against the top of the vice jaw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1171.jpg)
It was then just a case of holding a block of wood agaist the brass and gently bending it over, the block of wood helps keep the bend where you want it and the rest of the strip stays straight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1172.jpg)
I was a bit short of 1/8" brass sheet so silver soldered the flange from 4 bits of 5/8x1/8 flat which I have an excess of, two oversize triangles for the sides also came out of this flat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1173.jpg)
The bent strip and sides were then silver soldered together, cleaned up and the 1/8" edges rounded over
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1175.jpg)
This assemble was then Silver soldered to teh flange, I used an old toolmakers clamp to make sure things stayed together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1176.jpg)
And after a quick scrub under the tap we can see a nice small fillet of solder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1178.jpg)
The mounting holes were then drilled and a small bezel for the makers plate soft soldered on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1180.jpg)
J
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Nicely done :ThumbsUp:. You made that look much easier than using the casting that came with the original smaller engine ;).
Looking forward to seeing how you are going to do the maker's plate. :noidea: which reminds me I still have to layout the name plates for the DTC.
Jo
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Really need someone with a pantograph engraver :thinking:
Or try photo etch as in the latest ME
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We might be able to come to some arrangement ;).
Jo
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The problem is the lettering will only be about 1mm high and I'm still not decide if it is raised or engraved, what do you think from the photo on the first page ?
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Just blown it up and it does look like engraved letters but its a lot ot get onto a 3/4" dia plaque
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That is engraved (look at the shadows in "Easton") so it is easy enough to do ;D.
Jo
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That's an amazing bit of forming and soldering. Wow.
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Just noticed that I did not post a photo of the painted Valve chest cover so here you go.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1213.jpg)
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You may remember that when I was cutting the brass strips for the chequer plate that I said the method may work for cutting planking to go around cylinders, well now is the time to try it out.
I had some old mahogany that I ripped out of a house that was built about 1908-1909, it was the tops of some shelves in the alcoves either side of a fireplace that I replaced with this (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fitted%20Furniture/PICT0355.jpg). It was machined down to 3/8" thick which was the width of plank that I wanted and then cut to the correct length to fit between the cylinder end covers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1182.jpg)
I then held it in the mill vice and used a slitting saw to slice of 1/16" strips which will need little if any further work
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1184.jpg)
And here they are tried up against the cylinder, there are a couple of brass bands to add and some small screws that will go into the MDF rings below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1185.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1186.jpg)
Bit of a short one this week but I will make up for that in the next installment.
J
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Nice idea with the wood Jason, all looks very authentic.
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Bit of a short one this week but I will make up for that in the next installment.
More than I get done in a week.
Quality counts too and you've certainly got that.
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Wood is looking great. Nice that you could recycle some old pieces. Adds a lot.
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I am always amazed at how talented you are Jason. You just keep coming up with more and more ways to do things. Awesome progress on your engine. :praise2: :praise2:
I think I going to sell my equipment and go back to Electrical and Electronic work. :zap:
Don
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Next on the list was the conrod, this is made from a 9" length of 5/8 x 1 1/4 flat steel
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1181.jpg)
When this was cut I thought that while I was setting up the machines for the conrod that I may as well do all the other similar rods in one go so also cut some steel for the two eccentric rods, pump rod and two tie rods
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1200.jpg)
After squaring off the ends to length each bar was held on end and the two bolt clearance holes drilled together with a small centre hole formed with a BS 0 centre drill
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1191-1.jpg)
Each bar in turn was then held in the 4-jaw with tailstock support to reduce the majority to a cylinder followed by adding a slight taper to each end for about 1/3 of the length
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1192-1.jpg)
The tapers were then blended by hand to give the traditional fish bellied shape
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1193-1.jpg)
I then set the rods to one side and cut some bronze and steel for the bearings and end caps
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1210.jpg)
The bronze was then machined to thickness with a flycutter
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1214.jpg)
Before being tinned with soft solder prior to being sweated together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1215.jpg)
The bearings were then flycut down to the finished sizes
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1216.jpg)
Then set up a stop on the mill vice so the bearings and plates can be drilled for the bolts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1217.jpg)
And here they all are ready for assembly
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1218.jpg)
Well actually the bearings were bored first and the widths reduced to leave a raised section around the bore
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1219.jpg)
With then now assembled the narrow edges could be turned and recessed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1238.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1221.jpg)
Must be doing something right as the two tie rods seem to have ended up the same length
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1222.jpg)
And them all completed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1265_zpsf75ce7af.jpg)
Well I said it wass going to be a long one, so will the flywheel thats comming next.
J
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I remember making those for my little one but I made mine out of round stock rather than rectangular. The rods are one of those bits that really make it look like the engine is making some real head way, that and the flywheel :embarassed:
It looks like you even managed to fishbelly the two tie rods :ThumbsUp: and didn't have the joys of 12BA fasteners for them :hellno:
I must say she does look rather nice.
Jo
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Nice! Beautiful work Jason.
An inspiring post.
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Impressive set of rods and eccentrics. Great detail and touches.
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Yeah nice rods Jason - did you do them all using the compound slide for the tapers?
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Yes, I don't have a taper turning attachment and did not want to set over the tailstock so the longest ones on the conrod got done in two hits as the compound did not quite have the travel but the "joint" was where the blending came so easy to hide.
J
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Jason,
The trick I use on the prazimat if I want to turn a taper and avoid moving over the tailstock :hellno: is to put my boring head in the tailstock and put a suitable center, to support the work, in one of the holes normally used for the cutter bits ;)
Jo
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The trick I use on the prazimat if I want to turn a taper and avoid moving over the tailstock :hellno: is to put my boring head in the tailstock and put a suitable center, to support the work, in one of the holes normally used for the cutter bits
Cool!
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Jo, what a great trick. I have now learned something new today, so can I go back to bed? ;)
Lee
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Mighty cool indeed!!
Now to get those scale grasshoppers into place...
Seriously, is that upright supposed to rock back and forth?
Mosey
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Yes but not very much.
J
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When I first started to think about scaling this engine up I had intended to machine the flywheel from a slice off a 10" dia CI bar but having got the additional photos I had to have a rethink due to the barring holes in the outer rim, these were used to manually turn the engine over to a point where it would self start.
I eventually settled on the idea of a built up flywheel consisting of a "spoked cog" with a ring either side to give the the rim some thickness and add the webs to form the "+" section spokes plus a hub. I did think about milling out the spokes and the 66 barring holes but in the end opted for having them waterjet cut from 8mm mild steel with the two rings from 6mm material. A drawing was produced in Alibre and e-mailed to the cutters for a quote.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/flywheelexp_zpsca85c659.jpg)
When this came back the price was OK so the order was placed and a few days later I got a mail to say come and collect, this is what I came back with, you can see that all the internal and external corners of the barring holes are radiused as per my drawing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1240.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1243.jpg)
The first job was to join the cog and rings together so I set them up on teh rotary table with teh centre finder and while that was in the mill used it to set the wheel true to the Y axis, notice how accurate the 6mm notches are as they hold two 6mm drills in place to locate a straight bar against.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1244.jpg)
I then clamped the three parts together and drilled through them all M3 tapping size
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1245.jpg)
Followed by clearance size in the top two layers and a counter bore for the M3 socket screw heads.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1246.jpg)
Once out of the mill the lower ring was tapped and a trial fit done, you can also see that I have drilled two dowel holes in each spoke, more on them later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1253.jpg)
The two piece hub was a simple turning job from 1.5" bar with the same M3 holes added.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1255.jpg)
The parts were then all degreased and the rim put together with a smear of slow set Araldite adhesive, the hub with loctite. Here you can see things starting to take shape
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1252.jpg)
And a detail across the rim edge which just shows the "draft" angle left by the waterjet cutter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1249.jpg)
After the adhesive had been left for a day or two to set the flywheel was mounted on the lathe, luckily it could just be held by my 160mm 4-jaw. I was then just a case of taking the lightest skim off the rim to true things up, turn the side of teh ring to give a slight step and take 1.5mm off the sides of the spokes to get them down to 5mm overall.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1258_zpsed0d62d9.jpg)
Next I turned my attention to the spoke webs, I had got a quote to have these water jet cut as well bit it was a bit pricy so I just cut them from 5mm plate with the hacksaw and cleaned them up on the mill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1261_zps0eafb764.jpg)
Two holes were drilled and Csk in each following which a bit of 1/8" welding rod was passed through the holes before being snipped off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1262_zps89327078.jpg)
These rod ends were then peined over like a rivit and the webs were not going anywhere.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/c474a8a0-f8f7-4330-ace6-19a73ba46aa2_zps17f0feaa.jpg)
The final job was to fillet all the internal corners with Milliput and then give the flywheel a quick blast of primer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1276_zps03beb5a2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1278_zpsb9cc1c2a.jpg)
J
Edit
Almost forgot, this is a photo of Jo's machined with loving care from the castings set by Bruce Eng. looking through the flywheel of mine which gives an idea of how much bigger it is
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1273_zps0a98376f.jpg)
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Having been lucky enough to have got my hands on your flywheel I must add to this that the photo's don't do it justice, it is very sexy :embarassed:
Jo
Edit: I would prefer that mine was considered to be built out of castings ;), rather than a kit :o
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Having been lucky enough to have got my hands on your flywheel I must add to this that the photo's don't do it justice, it is very sexy :embarassed:
And I thought those loving eyes were for me :???:
Jo
Edit: I would prefer that mine was considered to be built out of castings ;), rather than a kit :o
Does that read more to your liking now :shrug:
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I could mentioned that I thought you were as well, but if I did you might start getting hate mail from a few of our contributors :shrug: so it is best if I don't say such things and I'll just claim they were soley for your engines :Love:.
Yes, but I apply more than just loving care to everything I do/make :embarassed:
Jo
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Ding dong, nudge nudge ;) ;)
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Beautiful flywheel, and an innovative solution.
It sounds like water jet cutting prices go up more based on the number of pieces rather than the complexity? Would it be rude to ask what it cost to cut the three pieces? Feel free to use a face slap icon as your response if that is an unacceptable question.
Lee
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The price is really based on machine time which is affected in several ways
1. The quality of the cut, I had the rings and spokes cut to the Q3 finish which is middle of the road and the teeth with a better Q2 on the advice of the cutters rather than the Q3 I had asked on for all the job.
2. Cut outs, each time the jet has to cut into the metal it takes longer to pierce a hole than cut.
3. Length of cut and changes of direction, the teeth cost a lot more to do than the plain rings, radiusing all the internals also helps as their are no stop/starts caused by sudden changes of direction.
4. Thickness, not only the cost of material but it takes longer to cut thicker material.
The cutters just load the file into their estimating software and it will spit out the costings.
The two rings were approx £20GBP each, the metal would have cost me just under half that.
The spoked cog at 8mm would have cost about £15 if I had bought the metal but supply and cut was a little over £60 GBP so a similar sized but more complex item cost around four times as much
-
Jason
I am well impressed with that flywheel, well done.
How would the end results and the prices compare with laser cutting ?
Phil
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I saw the flywheel post at work and couldn't wait to get home so I could see the pictures.
Awesome!
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Beautiful work Jason.
Thanks for sharing.
Dave
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That's some amazing work. Lots of tips and tricks to be learned in every post. I must start making more time to keep up on these builds.
Ray
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Really nice work, as well as concept, with the flywheel. I really like the riveting of the spoke webs. Were they countersunk at all?
Hugh.
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I think lazer cutting would come in a bit cheaper but with the disadvantage of hardening of the cut edges
Yes the holes in the webs were lightly countersunk with a 60deg bit rather than the normal 90deg as they were not really taking any strain and its easier to expand the rod into the CSK so less risk of swelling the web.
J
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Nice bit of fabrication there Jason! All duly filed away for another day! :praise2:
Dave
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Excellent work Jason - who needs castings when you can come up with something as convincing as that - looking forward to seeing more in due course.
Ramon
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Next on the agenda are the "A" frame supports that the beam tie bars fix to. I started out by marking the shape onto an odd bit of 1.5mm plate, clamped it to a second piece, rough sawed the two out and then filed to the final shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1279_zps648e45b6.jpg)
Next a couple of strips of the same material were cut off, I find the easiest way to cut thin sheet is to place it between two scraps of MDF as this stops it flapping about and jamming the saw blade.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1275_zps31fea941.jpg)
These were then just bent by hand and tweaked until they followed the shape of the "A" I also machined up a bit of 3/8x 5/16 with a slot in the top to form the feet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1280_zps36657ad7.jpg)
Some slightly thinner material was cut & bent to form the inner flanges and then the lot silver soldered together along with a flat piece of plate for the cross tie. After that I soft soldered in a piece of copper to complete the flanges as it was getting hard to hold any more pieces together for silver soldering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/762b58c8-bbfd-4726-b017-1290e3b905b5_zpsc3f4ab25.jpg)
Finally some brass disks were soft soldered on to form the bosses where the rods and tie bar fix
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1289_zps5af3dd6c.jpg)
The flanges and bosses were then all milled back to the correct widths, the outside one is narrower than the feet and the inner ones narrower still. Fillets added with Miliput, primed and a few simple turned parts from steel and another part can be crossed off the list.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG12906_zps5aa36e1a.jpg)
J
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Always interesting to see your fabrication of parts.
It goes beyond the turning and milling most of us do.
Question: At the top of the stands...the pre-finished parts shows the brass disks and empty space to either side. The finished parts appear to have some of the top filled in on either side of the disk. How was that done?
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I know it's not as easy as you make it look, Jason, but I really yearn to do this kind of fabrication. I rub my hands in anticipation every time I see a new installment to this build. Thanks.
--Tim
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Zee, a little JB Weld found its way in there.
J
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Jason, this sort of fabricated casting has always impressed me. a couple of questions:
1. You have the A shape, around which is formed another piece (does it have a name?), does it want to deform during the soldering process?
2. How did you then attach the other section once the A was complete?
Hugh.
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I used three pieces of steel tying wire, one at the top and one on each lower leg of the "A" and a few stratigically placed blocks so the silver soldering could all be done in one heat. The small piece of copper was the next heat but at a lower temp and being it was a tight fit there was no risk of it moving when the final heat to fix the brass was done.
The small bosses for the tie rod have spigots on them to locate in a hole in the steel The top ones were just held in place with blocks with the "A" inverted.
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Nicely Done Jason.....great tips...I'll keep this technique in mind.
Dave
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Jason very impressive work as usual, I love the way you went about making the A frame. Some very interesting approaches. This miliput what is it? It seems to fill the areas very nicely. Is it some kind of epoxy like JB Weld? I didn't think JB weld sanded very good at least not with a smooth finish.
Don
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Don,
Yes miliput is a brand of epoxy putty. Check amazon they have it.
Dan
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I can say I've had any problems sanding JB Weld just that it takes a while.
The Milliput is a two part putty/clay. Its not a sticky as JB weld and nowhere near as liquid, the idea is to work it like a clay getting the shaping done before it sets much like a pattern maker would use wax to form fillets on a pattern. I only have a very small amount of milliput work left on this engine so I'll take some photos of the stages and tools I use.
J
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WOW! Simply amazing work Jason. Cleverly thought out and simply executed, I Like it! :Love: Such pieces of art are hard to stop looking at, :happyreader:
BC1
Jim
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Thanks for that , Jason.
Hugh.
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Looks great the A frame Jason, spot on as usual.
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The Vertical movement of the valve rods is transfered from the horizontal movement of the eccentrics by cross shafts which run in beraing blocks. These are of a far simpler design than the ones for the crank and ladder frame shown earlier and were just milled and drilled from steel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1304_zps51447880.jpg)
These were then cut with a slitting saw and some bronze split bearings added
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1305_zps83b7ddd8.jpg)
And here they are with the rods in place and one of the levers, there are several other levers which are basic milling work with the rotary table so I won't detail them here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1306_zpsf3203310.jpg)
What I will show is the way I fabricate links rather than the more common method of turning from flat stock and then rounding off the ends. Start by cross drilling some overlength rod that will become the eyes of the links to fit the bit in the middle. A few punch marks on the rod hold things in the right place while they are soldered
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1295_zps391917dd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1296_zpsa82929f0.jpg)
Once cleaned up one of the eyes can be held in the lathe and carefully faced back to length and bored, followed by the other
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1297_zpsa7f32a27.jpg)
As the eyes are getting a bit short now its best to transfer to the mill and flycut the two eyes to length.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1298_zps90c95cd7.jpg)
And the finished pair of links
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1299_zpsa51d7992.jpg)
And here are all the bits together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1330_zps5bfd86cf.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1331_zps9c2d86c3.jpg)
J
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Nice work Jason.
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I think I am going to have to give that method a go I was never happy with the little valve links on my E&A. I like how you have counter bored the outer valve spindle link so that it fits partly over the sleeve, it hides the end of the sleeve nicely 8)
So how are you going to mount the governor vertical link, you seem to have a very sexy stud in the hole :naughty:
Jo
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Links are really nice. Always learn something when I read your posts!
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I have a cunning plan for the Governor support. They way I see whats in the photos is that there is still a stud in the bearing bracket and the end of the vertical shaft is threaded and used like a long nut to hold the bearing cap but I will not be doing it like that.
I did think your links were a bit skinny, I scaled them up to 3/16" rather than 1/8" which would have been double the drawing size. The outer tube was also uppe dfrom 3/8" to 1/2" so I could put a spigot on the end for the arms
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A nice tutorial on making the links Jason. A method I will have to keep in mind. enjoying the biuld log, although a little big for my equipment!
looking forward to the next instalment
Peter
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Thanks again Jason, I learn ever time you post. Very nice job also.
Don
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Nice one Jason...I used that on my launch engine and it does work great.
Dave
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Jason
I have been giving some thought on making the millions of links and eccentric rods etc on my Pollit & Wigzell mill engine.
I have in the past myself made similar items by silver soldering as you have just shown, and this is not meant to be taken as a criticism but one of my pet hates is being able to see the fillets of silver solder in the corners.
I have been wondering if it is worth getting one of those home nickel plating kits and finishing the bright work with that, it would also prevent rusting in future. My only worry is that it will make it look like a toy engine if the finish is too shiny.
Any thoughts ?
Phil
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Hi Phil
The fillets on those links are a bit large but as you say a small ring of solder will be visible but will tarnish down over time.
You can get a satin finish with the nickle so I don't think shine will be an issue but it does look a bit too light compared with the blue/grey of steel.
Next on the list is the piston and rod, this has a marine type end so first machine some steel and bronze
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1336_zps0e59cb7c.jpg)
These were then machined up in the same way as the other rod ends so I won't detail them again
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1337_zps72b95041.jpg)
I like to use aluminium for my pistons to keep the recipricating weight down which helps with a smoother running engine at low revs so a lump of 2" stock was machined down to 1 7/8"
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1338_zps51fd3f60.jpg)
The groove was put in and the dia left 10thou or so oversize before parting off and a recess cut for the lock nut
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1339_zps9665c3d1.jpg)
The rod was then screwed into the piston and used to hold it by while the it was skimmed down to finished size and thats it about done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1340_zps50eb10e5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1342_zps20ca405d.jpg)
J
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Jason,
I would be concerned that standard aluminium would wear rather more than a brass or iron piston. But I suppose it depends on the material, are you using HE15 or something with a little better wear properties? (I also note that you did not look to protect the piston in the chuck jaws... which would imply it was not std Aluminium ;) )
You have got these marine type ends off to a "T", nice :ThumbsUp: I am assuming that the top is drilled for an oil cup.
Jo
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Jo, correct me if you think I am wrong but.........
If everything else such as trunk guides or whatever are machined correctly the piston in theory should not touch the bore of the cylinder, the rings do all the sealing and wearing out. It is only on engines that have the con rod directly connected to the piston where you get sideways forces that cause uneven wear. ie internal combustion engines.
I suppose in a large horizontal steam engine with a very heavy piston it could wear the bottom of the bore, in fact now I come to think of it, Agnes once had a re-bore for that reason.
Jason took a finishing cut on the piston OD whilst holding it by the piston rod, so that ensured it was concentric and any previous holding marks would be removed.
By the way Jason, nice job :ThumbsUp:
Phil
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Thats my thinking as well Phil, in theory the piston won't touch the sides. It commonly used on the model traction engines particularly singles with unbalanced cranks and they see far more work than our little engines ever will. On my Fowler the cylinder cover has a neck bearing which together with the cross head guide support the piston rod rather then the bottom f the piston resting in the cylinder. Also remember that although the TE pistons were CI they were often hollow so the ali compensates for that.
Jo as Phil spotted the last 10thou came of the piston while holding it by the rod ensuring all is concentric just incase the threads wandered.
J
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Jo as Phil spotted the last 10thou came of the piston while holding it by the rod ensuring all is concentric just incase the threads wandered.
J
Something I should have done with the DTC :facepalm:
Jo
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I've got aluminum pistons on my Launch engine, and they have worked just fine for quite a few years now.
Dave
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If it was in an application where heat is involved you would just need to work out the clearances properly to account for differential expansion. I made some brilliant fitting aluminium pistons for my flame gulper ( no rings ) and it seized after a few seconds so had to go back to CI. Obviously there will be larger clearances when used with rings but it is still critical.
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0.003" per inch dia seems to be the going rate when using steam upto about 180psi.
The Steam enters the valve chest by a tightly bent flanged elbow. These cannot easily be bent and carving from solid takes a while so one method that I have adopted in the past is to use a standard compression plumbing elbow, in this case 12mm.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/elbow_zpsa98a610c.jpg)
Throw away the nuts and olives and loctite one end onto a suitably sized piece of rod. Turn off the external thread from the mandrel end and saw the other off before milling flush
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1365_zps3553f577.jpg)
Then turn up a couple of suitable flanges with spigots to locate them into the modified elbow
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1366_zpsd011dea0.jpg)
Then silver solder the bits together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1367_zps839dc0f4.jpg)
After a quick clean up the elbow can be held in the mill and a light skim taken off the face of the flanges to ensure they are at right angles
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1368_zps9d0cdeb0.jpg)
While set up true the bolt holes are easily drilled letting the DRO work out the positions
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1380_zps68278253.jpg)
While the PCD settings were in the DRO I also bashed out the exhaust pipework, here it is along with the elbow in the foreground. The bent copper elbow was also a modified plumbing fitting in this case a 15mm end feed angled tap connector.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1381_zps9da4f3f3.jpg)
J
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.......a tightly bent flanged elbow. These cannot easily be bent and carving from solid takes a while so one method that I have adopted in the past is to use a standard compression plumbing elbow
Jason,
I like that one, noted for use later ;)
Nice bit of plumbing you have there, looking forward to seeing more of it 8)
Jo
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Another lesson learned Jason, keep um coming. I just love all your manufacturing techniques. Like Jo said filing it for later. Nice set of pipes and flange.
Don
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Genius! Looks authentic that elbow.
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Wow. Pretty neat.
That's the kind of post/pictures that makes someone want to make one without knowing what they'll do with it.
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Seems I hadn't checked in on this thread for a while Jason. Most impressive as always. The flywheel, "a" frames. and plumbing fittings are inspirational!!!
Bill
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As a change from metal bashing I'll detail how I made the base for this engine.
A few strips were ripped off an old salvaged mahogany shelf, run through the planer and a simple moulding cut on the spindle moulder but similar could be done with a router. These were then cut with the mitre saw and fixed to the edge of a 12mm MR MDF board. A "box" was made to stand the engine on and a few off cuts glued together to form the plinth for the outboard bearing block. Holes for the flywheel and pump pits were cut and lined with more MDF. Overall size is appox 450mm x 300mm (18"x12")
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1398_zps19344ddb.jpg)
I had decided to go for a stone look, to simulate this drywall filler was mixed with wood glue and water, the glue helps the filler stick to the MDF and also makes it a bit more workable. Some strips of 2mm thick board were used to allow me to screed the filler to an even thickness. This was left to set up for about 30mins then as it started to firm up the surface was textured by lightly dabbing a rough stone onto the surface in a random pattern.
Then the pattern of the joints was scribed into the soft filler with the back of a snap off knife blade. I cut a few scraps of MDF to the stone size and stacked them one on top of the other to scribe each sucsessive course. The verticals were done by eye from a marked out "rod" making sure that the bond carried around the plinth.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1400_zps7f679da7.jpg)
The joints were then refined, the odd chipped corner added and any loose material lightly removed with a soft brush
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1401_zps56b61695.jpg)
The insides of the pits were treated in the same way and the final stage was to do the paving slabs, you can't really do it all in one go as the filler will have firmed up too much before you can get it all textured and jointed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1402_zpse16289f4.jpg)
After leaving to dry for a few days all the filler was given a coat of craft acrylic paint and left to dry overnight. The next stage is to apply oil washes, these are coats of heavily thinned artists oil colours in this case raw umber. You can see how the wash accentuates the joints and texture of the stone wheer it has been applied to one wall.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1417_zpsee729f53.jpg)
And here is the base after several washes, more can be applied to areas of shadow/dirt such as the pits and where the base joins the plinth. The odd stone is also given an extra wash to save them all looking the same.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1418_zps1f20fbec.jpg)
The final step is to dry brush some of the base acrylic colour lightened with increasing amounts of white to add heighlights to the stone.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1420_zpsef42dc45.jpg)
J
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It looked very nice when I saw it at the meeting on Saturday :ThumbsUp:
Jo
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Looks great Jason, wonder whether I'll ever make a nice base or they always be an after thought!
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Now I wonder where you picked up techniques like that Jason - a short(?) dabble in another hobby perhaps ;)
Very nice work indeed - it's going to be a cracker once finished.
Regards - Ramon
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That's awesome Jason, and I am interested in knowing about mixing the glue with the drywall filler. This is water solvable glue I presume. How many parts glue to drywall mix do you use, are do you just mix as needed?
Don
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Awesome indeed...and very authentic looking too Jason. Most impressive!!
Bill
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Ramon with a few AFVs and lots of bases for my figures its second nature ;) Though I resisted adding rubble and vegitation.
Don I pour out sufficient water for what I want to mix add approx 10-15% glue and mix with the water, water based like Elmers or one of the yellow carpenters glues will both work, I used Titebond II. Then just mix in the drywall powder to a spreadable consistanct in the UK Polyfilla would do rather than buying a bag of in this case Gyproc "easyfill".
J
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..a few AFVs
:noidea: Armoured Fighting Vehicles?
Jo
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Jason,
Very nice work on the base for your engine there! Really impressive! Can't wait to see it all in place!
Thnanks for sharing your technique.
Kim
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Ha ha! I guessed as much Jason, the talk of Polyfilla and oil washes brought a wry smile to my face ;) - not exactly something in most model engineers armoury. I use Polyfilla on my AFVs (that's Airey Fairy Vehicles Jo ;)) too.
Don't forget the oil stains will you ;D
Regards - Ramon
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that's Airey Fairy Vehicles
I assume they are GBTs (Ground Based Threats), of a variety that needs a duster rather than a missile to destroy them. :naughty:
Jo
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The guy that sits opposite me at work is into war games and goes to the far end of a fart with this sort of stuff - maybe I should take note!!
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After the brief interlude for the base its time to get back to some metalwork. The governor is mounted on a Tee shaped pipe arrangement where the bottom leg of the tee allows any condensate to gather and is fitted with a drain cock so any water can be blown down.
Not much to say here as its basically just pipes and flanges, the tee joint was formed by plunge cutting with an slotdrill the same 12mm dia as the tube to the midpoint and the short piece had its end coped to he internal bore, again with an end mill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1382_zps83b0e621.jpg)
Add a bit of silver solder and this is the assembled part.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1383_zps7c3e1b5b.jpg)
The gears were cut on the end of a bit of 5/8" brass
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1387_zps792493f8.jpg)
The governor itself was made from 1.5" brass, starting with a lump for the main body this was drilled, bored and then a 1"x40tpi thread cut in the end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1389_zps1c30a9c3.jpg)
The top section was then mounted up in the lathe and a matching male thread cut using the body to check the fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1392_zpsb19ce08c.jpg)
After which some of the outside was turned to profile
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1393_zpsc7ea6f40.jpg)
The body was then put back in the chuck and used to hold the top while the remainder was shaped and a hole put down the top.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1394_zps5e61005e.jpg)
The two parts were then transfered to the rotary table on the mill and further shape added to the top with a 1/2" slotdrill that had its corners ground to a radius which creates the fillets to give the cast look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1397_zps6d2b4a85.jpg)
The inside of the cut out was cleaned up with a long reach cutter. The next thing was to locate the cross hole for the governor drive shaft which I did my mounting one gear in the collet and checked the mesh against the other. With things running sweetly the R/T was turned 90 deg and the hole drilled as well as a slot to locate the stiffening web
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1409_zps06d28914.jpg)
With the drive shaft tube soldered in I added the holes to take the inlet and outlet flanges.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1411_zps002465f9.jpg)
And here is the main body ready to have the flanges soldered in place. followed by the flange for the control valve.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1415_zps476fa54e.jpg)
More to follow.
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Nice :ThumbsUp:
I see I have some competition for making bevel gears 8)
Jo
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Nice tip to find the the right location for the bevel gear!..... :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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I missed out a few photos of the next stages but this is what I have.
The parts for the regulator valve prior to soldering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1416_zpsf93a5240.jpg)
The profile of the valve handwheel was machined on the lathe before transfering to the R/t to first cut the spokes
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1425_zps6d3c59ed.jpg)
And then remove the waste
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1426_zps34f71ee4.jpg)
While the R/T was set up I used it to cut the two large radii on the stuffing gland
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1428_zps418406e0.jpg)
I decided to use commercial balls for the governor, these are 303 stainless and reasonably easy to drill in their supplied state. A split collet was used to hold them for drilling
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1446_zpsf6710cf7.jpg)
These were loctited to the arms, I also made the small tee shaped legs that stop the balls dropping too far :-\
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1447_zps373ced77.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1450_zps193336fb.jpg)
As this engine is only likely to run on air I added a finishing touch with some "Slaters" letters, these are 2mm high
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1452_zpsa4d2b808.jpg)
And here are a few shots of all the bits fitted together, the eagle eyed of you (Jo) will also spot the bracket to support the other end of teh governor drive shaft.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1484_zps083cf945.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1483_zps6f4436e9.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1482_zps895a8a92.jpg)
J
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OK.....Slaters letters?
Dave
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Lovely, lovely work Jason - it's looking superb, double superb in fact :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:.
Love the lettering, very convincing - don't catch em with a file though ;)
Can't wait to see it painted - though about colour yet?
Ramon
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These were loctited to the arms, I also made the small tee shaped legs that stop the balls dropping too far :-\
I know of other cures for that :mischief:
.........
And here are a few shots of all the bits fitted together, the eagle eyed of you (Jo) will also spot the bracket to support the other end of teh governor drive shaft.
Very artistic little bracket. Does the belt clear the exhaust?
Jo
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Slaters Letters
https://slatersplastikard.com/assets/pdfs/AlphabetFlyer.pdf
They are made by the people who produce plastic modeling card, just cut them out pick up with the tip of a scalple and put in place. I cut an ovel template from masking tape and placed the letters within that but did the actual spacing by eye.
Thanks Ramon, I did quite fancy a light green similar to your table engine but have been told to do it satin black so the green will have to wait as the next two projects are bright red.
Jo, I thought you were going to offer to catch them for me and yes the belt will clear the pipework.
J
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Amazing stuff, Jason. This is what I want to make when I grow up :)
Are those cork gaskets on the piping?
Simon
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No just a bit of overspray on the brass.
I tend to use a liquid gasket on final assembly. The write-up is a bit behind the build and the engine has run quite happily with no gaskets, gland or piston packing but only the very persuasive have got to see that ;)
J
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Thanks Jason!
Dave
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I thought you were going to offer to catch them for me...
You will have to bring them round to my house then, they can have dining room table. You know I will be gentle with them :embarassed:
Edit: I hope you are not hoping to take them home again, your E&A might not be castings but it is equally desirable ;D
Jo
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Only if you promise not to squash them like you did my thumb.
J
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:'(
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Lol! Engine is looking awesome Jason, stunning piece of proper engineering.
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So with just about all the important parts made I like to test the engine before any painting is done which reduces the risk of chipped paint if you have to strip things down again. I did not bother with any gaskets, gland or piston packing but it seems to show promise. The engine tends to speed up a bit on the down stroke due to gravity so a bit of resistance from the packing should help there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VesnzqvZ3W4
With that out of the way I could get on with a few of the cosmetics. Firstly there are about 14 oil cups needed for the bearings, these were made from 1/4" hex brass using a small form tool to cut the neck.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1435_zpse2bbb9e9.jpg)
Job done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1436_zps74b4ed8e.jpg)
The big end also has a little oil pot clamped to the conrod and the oil is applied via a small dia copper pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1493_zps6b75535b.jpg)
The piston rod is also lubricated in a similar way but has a lidded box rather than a pot which fixes to one of the beam supports
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1491_zps5a6f2d72.jpg)
The engine was then stripped down and all the "cast" parts painted, I just used a satin black spray can rather than the airbrush as I find the slightly rougher texture the can gives better suits the surface of the original. Golf tees are handy to stop paint getting into holes and at the same time provide a useful handle to save marking the paint.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1496_zpsf81f64f3.jpg)
In total there are 38 fabricated parts which would have been castings on the original, I had a littel count up and they are made up from 194 separate pieces of metal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0376_zpsf54eed59.jpg)
After a couple of days to allow the paint to harden off the cylinder could be lagged. The strips of wood were tacked to the MDF rings I had previously fitted with a small blob of superglue. Then two strips of 1/4" wide brass were cut from sheet (thought I had some boiler banding) and the heads of some 1/16" brass rivits slotted to look like screws and again fixed into their holes with superglue.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1504_zps3bc66d55.jpg)
Well the next post should be the completed engine.
J
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Nice, looking forward to seeing the completed engine :ThumbsUp:
I hope you haven't forgotten anything ;)
Jo
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What like how it all goes back together???
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Love those oil cups. I am at the moment considering doing something similar to that to the Corliss.
Vince
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The big end also has a little oil pot clamped to the conrod and the oil is applied via a small dia copper pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/IMAG1493_zps6b75535b.jpg)
Just watched the video Jason - very atmospheric exhaust beat. Lovely, lovely work all over but I really like the oiler above - nice attention to detail :ThumbsUp:
Looking forward to seeing it in all it's glory
Regards - Ramon
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Beautifully done Jason, I like.......... :praise2:
Don
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Wonderful set of pics. Very nice parts.
Very interesting to see the different types of oil cups.
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Nice Build Jason!
:ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Nicely done indeed! The conrod oiler is a delight.
Hugh.
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Absolutely great that Jason, would the full size grasshoppers speed up on the down stroke or would the govenor be sensitive enough to stop that? Or was there another method?
Can't wait to see it back together!
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The governor would not act fast enough but the fact there was a load on the engine would have made the biggest difference rather than just running free.
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Ah, of course!
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Well I remembered how it all went back together so this is it just about done and dusted, there is still a belt for the governor and a makers plate to do when a certain young lady decides to share her secrets.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00508_zps35dc0494.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00510_zps924d9144.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00511_zpsd19c7402.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00523_zps2199f911.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00512_zps19b17048.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00513_zpsa2de1819.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00516_zps5913ee47.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00517_zps9bec0b9e.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00519_zpsd6793d85.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/DSC00524_zpsd3d5e25b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0396_zps2e55e336.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0397_zps2fe22213.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0408_zps95ed0fc6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0409_zps647696be.jpg)
And the usual Coke can shot so you can get an idea of size
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/EastonandAnderson/PICT0419_zps740cacbb.jpg)
And finally a short video, the compressor was having a job to keep up thats why it starts off a bit fast for my liking and then dies out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDhF7zYsK1o
J
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It is very nice :Love: .. now you just need a suitable dining table to keep it on ;)
Jo
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Spot on Jason.
Phil
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Bravo Jason. That is just beautiful. :AllHailTheKing:
Just one question Jason. On one of the components there was Tangye Birmingham. Was this engine made by Tangye?
Vince
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The governors were made by Tangye. This engine was made by Easton and Anderson who brought in their governors from Tangye ;)
Edit: I just found this picture of one of Tangye's governors like the one Jason has made:
Jo
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Thanks Jo. That makes sense.
Vince
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Feel a bit sick looking at it!!!! Have to remember for people that may have just seen the final pics that there isn't a casting in sight!
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Inspiring. Fit and finish are wonderful :NotWorthy:
Rod
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It can't be overstated what a privilege it's been to watch a build of this quality. I don't say I could ever achieve this level, but it helps a fellow to know how far he might reach.
I come hear to see things like this. Thanks Jason.
--Tim
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It can't be overstated what a privilege it's been to watch a build of this quality. I don't say I could ever achieve this level, but it helps a fellow to know how far he might reach.
I come here to see things like this. Thanks Jason.
--Tim
Me too, superb model Jason. :praise2: :NotWorthy:
Best Regards
Bob
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Jason, I could only dream of doing what you did with your engine, at least I can set my sites to a higher level. It helps to know that one could maybe achieve such fine craftsmanship one day. You are a true craftsman in every sense. Thank you for sharing your skills with us that have less. Superb job by every means. :praise2: :praise2: :praise2:
Don
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It can't be overstated what a privilege it's been to watch a build of this quality. I don't say I could ever achieve this level, but it helps a fellow to know how far he might reach.
I come here to see things like this. Thanks Jason.
--Tim
Me too, superb model Jason. :praise2: :NotWorthy:
Best Regards
Bob
Absolutely!
:praise2:
Dave
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Beautiful series and result. After watching it being made, I'm not in the least bit surprised.
Hugh.
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I like how so many of our members can not only write up the build but photo as they go. An excellent build Jason and a result to be proud of. :praise2: :praise2: :praise2:
Pete
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Lovely job Jason :ThumbsUp:
Great build log as well very informative.
Stew
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Stunning piece of workmanship Jason - looks absolutely superb.
I remember thinking to myself when you said it was to be black how that perhaps that wasn't the best choice of colour - just shows how wrong one can be - beautiful contrast to the metals and the base. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I see you don't have the governor belt fitted - if sourcing one is a problem I have some record player drive belts which have reasonable tension, are quite thin and flat and about 4mm wide - if they will fit you are welcome to one.
Regards - Ramon
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Jason
Wow! That is a beautiful creation. I would love to build something like that. Maybe if your photos were just a bit sharper or if your explanations were more complete or if pigs could fly. :Lol:
Jerry
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... a makers plate to do when a certain young lady decides to share her secrets.
J
Which reminds me: how big would you like me to make yours? :naughty:
Jo
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I am impressed :NotWorthy:
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:praise2: Beautiful work as always Jason.
Kind regards, Arnold
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Gorgeous! :Love:
David D
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:praise2: :NotWorthy:
Absolutely superb build Jason, having just retired after being in the engineering trade for the past 50 years I admit I could not match your quality or skills.. yet! :Lol: :Lol: :Lol:
As an aside what sort of equipment have you got for your silver soldering /brazing process, propane gun, (Sievert ?) propane / butane cylinder, hoses etc. :headscratch: or do you use one of the DIY piezo soldering gun / canister kits from the likes of Machine Mart / B & Q, I suspect you will have the full gear for the heat needed, also where do you get your JB weld from, I can get Milliput from my local hobby store / Boyes general store (no connection) & the like but not aware of local stores that stock JB weld per se, (I'm in the Teesside area).
TIA
George.
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Thanks for all teh kind comments
As Jo says the Governor was a bought in item either by Easton & Anderson or possibly whoever erected the engine in the gas works.
Ramon, I'm going to try a few things for the belt but if all else fails may be in contact.
George, I really don't have any thing special. A 3.9kg propane bottle with a Bullfinch torch with 22mm nozzel which is similar to the Machine Mart ones and a few scamolex blocks as a hearth.
JB Weld I get off e-bay but you may get it in a car accesory shop. Make sure its the red & black tubes.
J
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Jason
Just one more admiring post, tedious after a bit I know, but if you make magnificent engines you'll just have to grin and bear it ... :ThumbsUp:
George
I got my JB Weld from here, had no luck at all locally with accessory shops etc.
http://www.jbweldadhesives.co.uk/
Bought about 2 years ago, they were just about the cheapest taking 'post incl.' into account.
Don't know about the prices now. Have a shufti around ..
Dave BC
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Hi Jason, may i enquire about "slaters" letters , material, sizes, source's etc etc . this is really good and inspiring work
Regards, Willy.
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There is also a link on the page to show the actual sheets, I ordered from them
https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/alphabets.php
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thanks 4 t'info in shall have to look into this interesting
Willbert
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Jason, May i ask what is the thinking behind making the steam chest cover in this way ? was it because it used less metal, or because it was easier to get at or do maintenance, Is there any text available on old engines that talks about this method of construction. Actually, does it use less metal ?maybe not come to think of it. any thoughts would be interesting, thanks.
Willy.
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It probably does use a bit less material just having a bolting flange rather than the whole sides of the valve chest being the thickness of the mating surfaces. The slanting joint may have been to give better access to the Meyer valve gear though I have seen similar on other engines with basic slide valves.
It certainly allowed me to use a smaller block of bronze for the valve chest and just a few scraps of plate for the flange & cover.
J
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:praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :praise2:
Oh boy what level of work is that it is a spectacular thing is that I donot believe I can bring to this forum because apparently seen god mother, encouragement and congratulations friend grabbing a spectacular job these
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will you be adding a Barring bracket and tool for extra realism ?
W
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There is no sign of a bracket on the original or any trace of fixings for one so I'll keep it as it appears in the photos to keep it real.
J
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I'm new to the forum - this is my first post on the first build I have looked at
if this is the standard of build here its going to be a while before I put my builds up
Standard of work and craftsmanship is outstanding - i learnt a lot and enjoyed so much I read it twice
Well done
Cheers
Joe
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Welcome Joe, don't be put off by others work we have all levels here and like to follow any build and we do like pictures.
If you can spare a few moments can you add a brief post in the "introduce yourself" section to give people an idea of your interests, anything you have made or hope to make in the future.
J
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hi joe welcome we have all got scrap boxes full of failed bits and pieces part of the fun,if it does what you want at the endof making your a winner ian c
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It probably does use a bit less material just having a bolting flange rather than the whole sides of the valve chest being the thickness of the mating surfaces. The slanting joint may have been to give better access to the Meyer valve gear though I have seen similar on other engines with basic slide valves.
It certainly allowed me to use a smaller block of bronze for the valve chest and just a few scraps of plate for the flange & cover.
J
Jason, I have been looking at these post's in detail now and am quite intrigued by the Meyer valve gear. Is there somewhere i could look that explains this valve gear in more detail. Good work and i may be "borrowing" some of your build techniques in the future !!
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Jason
Superb craftsmanship, I think the difference is taking that bit extra care and a large helping of skill, we all have the potential but only a few realize it.
Keep up the good work
Mike
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Willy, as I only intended to run my engine on air I did not build the Meyer valves but just followed Anthony Mounts design with a dummy so did not do any research into the subject
Thanks Mike
J
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When I fist saw the diagonal construction of the valve chest, I gave it some thought and concluded that it was done to allow access to the valve face for finishing with a shaper or hand scraper. It effectively removes one wall of the valve chest. If all the walls of the valve chest were cast integral with the cylinder, I can't see how the valve face would have been finished with the tools of that era.
It also reduces the number of castings. Usually the valve face is cast with the cylinder and then a rectangular box and a separate valve cover is added, more bolts, and more assembly.
This is just an opinion with no supporting data, but after seeing it, I wondered why more engines weren't made that way.
Jerry
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Willy, as I only intended to run my engine on air I did not build the Meyer valves but just followed Anthony Mounts design with a dummy so did not do any research into the subject
Thanks Mike
J
Jason, Thanks for that, I shall see what i can find out on the web.I too will have to try and do some research into the inner workings of the Beeleigh Woolf compound. !!
Willy.
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Have just read this thread from start to finish.
I couldn't keep away from it! Absolutely magnificent work. If I ever get to be 0.001 times as good as this, I'll be very happy...
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: