Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Kits/Castings => Topic started by: Flyboy Jim on December 15, 2016, 06:46:20 PM
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OK here's my story (about how this undertaking came about)..........and I'm sticking to it! :naughty:
I've been interested in this engine ever since I started looking at Bill's P & W build thread last spring. Actually, I became enamored with Hit & Miss engines early on in my machining journey. That was really brought home when I attended the Brooks, Oregon "Steam-up", this last summer, and saw some of the full size ones running!
Anyway, about 3 weeks ago, I ordered a set of plans for Little Loco's "Parsell & Weed" engine for $40 (plus shipping and handling), just to have a look at them. Well............ that resulted in 2 things: 1). I was totally blown away at just how nice and detailed the plans are and 2). I was totally overwhelmed with just how involved the project seemed! :headscratch: So anyway, (and this is the reason it took so long to get that last little bit done on my PMR #2) I sat down with Bill's build thread and went page by page through the plans, noting on them as to where on Bill's thread the building of a particular part was documented. Then I went through the plans and figured out just what additional tooling I would need. Then I went through the plans and figured out just what additional material I would need. By the time I was done with all that, it didn't seem near as intimidating!
There are about 74 parts for the engine, not counting the fasteners, the coolant/fuel tank, and the crank handle. Of those, probably only about 1/3 or less are all that much different than a lot of the parts I've already made. The critical ones (other than mucking up a casting) are made out of relatively inexpensive material and can be made over and over.................and over until they're right! :wallbang:
Here's the factors that really cemented my decision to have a go at this:
1). The "Bill Factor". Having his build thread to look at is the main reason I decided to tackle a build like this this early in my "machining journey".
2). Todd at Little Loco's has already been really responsive at answering the few questions I've had.
3). I don't want to sound like some kind of "Snooty Sherline Owner" :Lol: but they DO enable a person, like myself, to make accurate fiddly parts without having a lot of machining experience.
4). I continue to be amazed at all the help and encouragement that MEM has to offer for newbies and I'm confident that won't be any different with this project.
It's a big undertaking and there'll be lots of little side trips I'll need to take to learn things I know little about........... like soldering, tempering, lapping, and tool grinding. Part of the fun!
OK.............. enough of the philosophical stuff..............at least for now. I'll get to the meat of the project in the next post. I'm not going to be as detailed, in documenting my build as I've been with my other builds, since Bill has done such a great job on his thread. I mainly want to have a platform from which to receive input and also document anything that might add to Bill's thread.
So........ as Neil Armstrong said when he took that first step on to the surface of the moon on July 20, 1969: "That's one small step for "experienced machinist", one giant leap for Flyboy Jim" ...........or something like that! :thinking:
Jim
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Excellent! A new project to follow...
Lets see, bag of popcorn, check.
Cookies, check.
Bag of funny comments, check.
I'm ready! Bring on the pictures!
:popcorn: :cheers:
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:pics:
Some of use are still waiting to see the castings :embarassed:
Jo
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:pics:
Some of use are still waiting to see the castings :embarassed:
Jo
Thanks Chris. Stay warm back there. 4" of snow on the ground here...........nothing like you get there!
Jo...........me too!! The casting kit is supposed to arrive on Monday. Pictures to follow. ;)
Jim
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Good move Jim and time to tax your limits........ :ThumbsUp:
Besides Bill is right there to help... :stickpoke: right Bill.
Don
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Sounds wonderful Jim! I'm excited to see you get started on your new Christmas engine!
I like your way of thinking too. There's noting in a big project like this but lots of little projects ;D And if you can focus on each little project and feel that magic of accomplishment with each one, then you'll eventually get through the whole thing! Especially when you've got such a great team of experts to help you out with the sticky bits.
So Chris, are you sharing the popcorn too? Or just the funny comments? :Lol:
Kim
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:pics:
Some of use are still waiting to see the castings :embarassed:
Jo
Thanks Chris. Stay warm back there. 4" of snow on the ground here...........nothing like you get there!
Jo...........me too!! The casting kit is supposed to arrive on Monday. Pictures to follow. ;)
Jim
Its CCOOOLLDDD here this week, our friends up in Canada have sent us a box of arctic air for a couple days. Not too much snow, it all depends where you are around here, with lakes Erie and Ontario, the wind direction steers the bands of heavy snow off the water. Buffalo has gotten really socked in.
So, good days to hunker down in a warm shop and play!
Looking forward to seeing the castings. How many days of casting fondling till they are ready to machine? Don't want to skip that step!
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Sounds wonderful Jim! I'm excited to see you get started on your new Christmas engine!
I like your way of thinking too. There's noting in a big project like this but lots of little projects ;D And if you can focus on each little project and feel that magic of accomplishment with each one, then you'll eventually get through the whole thing! Especially when you've got such a great team of experts to help you out with the sticky bits.
So Chris, are you sharing the popcorn too? Or just the funny comments? :Lol:
Kim
Plenty to go around, sharing both the snacks and the comments! :cheers:
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Well I'll cook the BBQ and buy the beer for this adventure. Great flight planning Captain :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:. Seriously, I see that Chris is a carver and he just cuts away everything that doesn't look like the part, you and I "fly by the numbers " and make the part as close to the print as we can; either way our destinations are the same. Can't wait to see you put the Sherline through it's paces :cheers:.
Cletus
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Looking forward to seeing the castings. How many days of casting fondling till they are ready to machine? Don't want to skip that step!
Chris, I'm not sure about the time table for "casting fondling". I need to wait for input about that from our "Chief Casting Fondler".
Eric, I like your analogy!
Jim
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All right! This promises to be a great build. It sounds like we have a full house, the bleachers are filled and the popcorn is hot. Bring on the show!! :popcorn: :cheers: :cartwheel:
Pete
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I need to wait for input about that from our "Chief Casting Fondler".
:thinking: I need to see the castings first
Xmas morning I am hoping to have at least an hour's worth of fonding of something Father Xmas is promising to give me :naughty:
Jo
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OK here's some background info:
http://www.littlelocos.com/littlelocos_web-easy_page_september_2016_007.htm (Little Loco's P & W webpage)
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.0.html (Bill's most excellent build thread) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsQZxBShfjc (YouTube video of horizontal engine running) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO2IBZJjuZQ YouTube video of vertical engine running)
My casting kit should be here first of the week. Got my PM Research order yesterday with some taps, dies, and tubing for cooling system. My MSC order with a bunch more tooling should be here soon. As these projects get more involved, so does the tooling (like no one else knows this already :lolb:).
I also see where I'll be making some more fixtures and clamping devices.
Oh yeah............there'll some more Sherline accessories in my future as well! $$$$$
Anyway time to go make some swarf! :whoohoo:
Jim
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OK, since you've gone about this adventure in such an organized manner, I think it's only appropriate that you show us some pictures of the treasure you have acquired ahead of time by planning sooooo well!!!
So come on, set the stage!
Pete
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And its not us demanding pictures, its the shop elves. Yeah, thats it!
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Now I am really feeling the pressure Jim. I think you will enjoy the project and you are right, it's just a matter of stringing more parts or more procedures together. I am really looking forward to the build and am sure you can do a better job of documenting it than I have done.
Bill
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Now I am really feeling the pressure Jim. I think you will enjoy the project and you are right, it's just a matter of stringing more parts or more procedures together. I am really looking forward to the build and am sure you can do a better job of documenting it than I have done.
Bill
Thanks Bill.
Actually you've done a great job with documenting and I've learned a lot from it. I'll try and fill in any blanks as I go.
Jim
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Look what happened to Cletus when he tries going from nice steam engine models to IC. May the force be with you. :o
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And its not us demanding pictures, its the shop elves. Yeah, thats it!
Well, as we wait patiently (some of us more patient than others........those pesky shop elves) for the casting kit to show up, I got started on the muffler since I had the material for that. Also, that's what Bill started with, so decided..........that works for me. Besides I got to use my compound slide, which I had only used one time making my scriber right after I got my lathe.
I'll throw in some extra detail, since Bill didn't show cutting the angles in his post.
I forgot to get a picture of the starting point for cutting the angles, so will refer to Bill's Post #17 first picture: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.15.html
I set my compound to 45 degrees (on the Sherline lathe it mounts on the backside of the cross slide and uses the cutter upside down). The first thing I discovered was that I didn't have a cutter that would cut the angle without running into something. :wallbang: I figured out what was in the way, took it to the grinder and ground that off. So I guess I've already learned something new with this build. I went from "not knowing squat" about grinding tool bits to being 1 step above "not knowing squat. :) Touched up the cutter on my oilstone and it worked great!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020984.JPG)
Parted off.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020985.JPG)
Centered my RT, mounted the work in a collet, and indicated to make sure it was still centered.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020986.JPG)
Offset the RT the correct amount and drilled the clamping holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020987.JPG)
Roughed out the inside to the proper size.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020989.JPG)
Then back to the lathe to cut the angle on the inside. The first tool I ground didn't work. I needed one just the opposite, which I had, so I ground that one for clearance. Here's a couple of pictures of the inside. Me and my magnifying glass are really starting to get to know each other!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020991.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020992.JPG)
After cutting the spigot (not sure what else to call it) it was back to the RT to mill the flats for bolt clearance.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020995.JPG)
One part done............73 to go! Heck there's nothing to building this engine! :lolb: :lolb:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020999.JPG)
This picture kinda looks like a candy dish for the shop elves..................gonna have to keep it hid from them!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1020997.JPG)
Now for the other muffler half.
Jim
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Nice start!
:popcorn: (munch munch munch) :popcorn:
That little collet set sure looks like it is going to get a workout on these parts. Some tricky grinding on the cutters, but it came out nice!
And the shop elves would like their candy dish to have a lid, so the other half will come in handy...!
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Aaannnnddd we're off and running...... :whoohoo: :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
Pete
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I'm enjoying it already Jim. Nicely done on the muffler half.
Bill
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And the shop elves would like their candy dish to have a lid, so the other half will come in handy...!
There that ought to make the little bas :censored: .......................cute little guys happy! Although I suppose they want it filled with candy too! :LickLips:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030004.JPG)
Thanks Pete and Bill.
Until the drill bits get here I need, I'm going to be jumping around a bit getting started.
Jim
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Wow Jim, three pages and I just found out about your new project. That's what happens when life gets in the way.
I will be following along with the other guys to see what you are up to; so please post away.
Dave
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Got in a little more time this afternoon and got the muffler finished up.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030005.JPG)
Still need to cut the bolts off and maybe shorten the exhaust pipe which is 12" long right now!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030006.JPG)
Got the governor weight made as well. Here's a family shot................a real small family at this point! :Lol:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030007.JPG)
Jim
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Jim, yeah 12" might be a tad long, but the muffler looks great!! :whoohoo:
Bill
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Great start! :popcorn:
That muffler cover would be a great place for some engraving or relief carving... Imagine yourself a Victorian era machinist... Another layer on the cover, holes cut through as fretwork.
While you're waiting for the castings. Just sayin, as the phrase goes!
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Beautiful work, Jim! Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
Happy to be a part of the support crew on the build.
Enjoy!
Todd.
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Thanks all.
Todd.... my kit gets here tomorrow, as does my Speedy Metals order. :whoohoo:
Next up was the Mixer Body.
Pretty much done like Bill's. Here's a couple of pictures that were a little different showing the drilling and tapping 1-72 for the needle valve.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030008.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030009.JPG)
Finished part.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030010.JPG)
Then on to the Jet.
Turned to the proper diameter for the 5-40 threads. Got to try out my new OSG die. Big difference from the "Brand C" die I had before!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030011.JPG)
The rest was pretty much just like Bill did it. Boy is his build thread coming in handy! I'd still be scratching my head. :noidea:
It's funny. I hadn't used my compound at all on any of my other 4 engines and I've used it for 4 operations on this build already. :)
Finished parts.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030012.JPG)
Jim
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Is OSG the brand or a type of die?
And what does the mixer do? Is it like a carburator?
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Is OSG the brand or a type of die?
And what does the mixer do? Is it like a carburator?
OSG is kind of a middle of the road die made in Japan and some in the USA I think.
The mixer does just what the name implies...........mixes air and fuel. Just like is done on the carburetor in most model airplane engines. The amount of fuel let in is determined by the needle valve position (the needle valve is shown in the last picture in Bill's post #35........ http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.30.html ). Fuel comes in one side and and mixes with the air coming in the end. And the rest is, as they say,................"combustion". The only part I don't quite understand yet is that, I think, this process goes on whether the engine is firing or not. So it seems to me that this fuel mixture would be just going into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust until the exhaust valve is allow to close, when the governor lets it, and the engine fires. Good for speed regulation, but not so much for fuel economy!
Jim
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Ok Jo (Chief Casting Fondler) ........................I received my casting kit and have the castings staged on the dining room table.......................so now what do I do? Lots to learn! :)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030013.JPG)
Jim
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Looks like you are all set Jim. I think the fondling is to help figure out how you are supposed to hold the suckers for machining :shrug:
Cletus
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Hello Jim,
On the idle strokes of a hit and miss engine, the intake valve remains closed and air flows in and out of the exhaust port. Ideally, no fuel is wasted. On some engines, the spark ignition is also switched off to conserve the battery.
Lookin' good on the mixer body!
Todd.
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Looks like you are all set Jim. I think the fondling is to help figure out how you are supposed to hold the suckers for machining :shrug:
Cletus
Oh...............I was hoping it might be something more "ethereal" than that! Something kind of Zen like. :shrug: Although I guess that just figuring out how to hold them and not machine oneself into a corner is pretty "ethereal"!
Jim
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Looks like you are all set Jim. I think the fondling is to help figure out how you are supposed to hold the suckers for machining :shrug:
Cletus
Oh...............I was hoping it might be something more "ethereal" than that! Something kind of Zen like. :shrug: Although I guess that just figuring out how to hold them and not machine oneself into a corner is pretty "ethereal"!
Jim
I think I read that book, Zen And The Art Of Steam Engine Maintenance...?
I didn't see the cylinder in the casting pile - is that from bar stock?
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Hello Jim,
On the idle strokes of a hit and miss engine, the intake valve remains closed and air flows in and out of the exhaust port. Ideally, no fuel is wasted. On some engines, the spark ignition is also switched off to conserve the battery.
Lookin' good on the mixer body!
Todd.
Thanks Todd.
After reading your post I went to the back of the plans and re-read the governor page and it all fell into place.
Got my casting kit today. The casting look really nice. I've haven't machined bronze yet, so looking forward to having a go at it.
Jim
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Looks like you are all set Jim. I think the fondling is to help figure out how you are supposed to hold the suckers for machining :shrug:
Cletus
Oh...............I was hoping it might be something more "ethereal" than that! Something kind of Zen like. :shrug: Although I guess that just figuring out how to hold them and not machine oneself into a corner is pretty "ethereal"!
Jim
I think I read that book, Zen And The Art Of Steam Engine Maintenance...?
I didn't see the cylinder in the casting pile - is that from bar stock?
That's correct Chris. It's made from a length of 4130 steel tubing. It's the top piece in the picture. The two castings are the collars that support the water jacket (brass) and cylinder sleeve. Bill's P & W build shows some of that on pages 7 & 9. http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.90.html Looking ahead to machining the cylinder sleeve, I think I see an Arthur Warner groover in my future. And here I've been thinking that I'd bought all the tools that I was ever going to need! :lolb:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030014.JPG)
Jim
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Looking good on the mixer Jim!! That barbed fitting as well :ThumbsUp:
Bill
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Thanks Bill.
I have a question for the "brain trust": What kind of lubricant, if any, should I use for milling bronze castings?
Thanks, Jim
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Right or wrong Jim, I didn't use anything, make sure your tools are sharp though!!
Bill
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I've noticed how differently the different bronze alloys machine, what alloy(s) do they usually use for engine castings? Or does it vary a lot with the foundry?
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Hey Jim
This is worth exactly what you paid for it. :lolb:
Brass and bronze I usually mill and turn dry except at work where I can use flood coolant in my mill. For threading and tapping I prefer to use Moly-Dee (a Castrol product) especially on the threading dies.
I have been threading some 5/16-27 or 1/16 NPT threads on brass tube for the Pacfic cooling water plumbing, using my Geometric die head in the lathe; the Moly-Dee really helps.
Dave
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Jim, when I said I didn't use anything I meant for machining. When tapping, I always use a heavy threading oil. Dave's post reminded me of that.
Bill
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Thanks guys. Just the info I was looking for.
I started milling the base casting today with my fly cutter and did it dry. Was working great, but thought I'd better check. I'll definitely use tapping fluid for tapping.
Chris I'm not sure what the bronze alloy is. Maybe Todd will check in and let us know.
Dave wasn't Moly-Dee" a country singer? :lolb:
Jim
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Nah....that was Sandra-Dee but not country :lolb:
B
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:naughty: Nice Castings.
Ok Jo (Chief Casting Fondler) ........................I received my casting kit and have the castings staged on the dining room table.......................so now what do I do? Lots to learn! :)
It is so tempting to take the first one and go make swarf :ShakeHead: But you need to take time to fondle each casting :Love: You will need the drawings as well.
You need to find where the castings are oversize, any possible under sizes and if the foundry cut too close to the part when they cut off the sprue >:(. It is those possible undersizes that may require a few variations on the drawings :disappointed: Then you can work out where the imaginary datum is and how much needs to be taken off each surface to reveal the part beneath.
Hopefully those should be ok but some of the older casting sets like the Wall engines had their patterns originally made in wood. Elmer never imagined that many would sell but over the years the wood patterns were used to cast aluminium patterns and the resulting castings are undersized :Doh: then you have to decide how to tackle the undersize problems :(
Jo
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Hey all,
The bronze we are using is C87300 Silicon Bronze. I like the mechanical properties, how it machines, and how it looks.
I could turn a 5" flywheel in an evening on my Atlas 10" where it would take 2 or 3 to do the same in Cast Iron. On one of the early flywheel castings, the foundryman did a stress test by taking a flywheel and laying it between two large hunks of metal. He then beat on the hub mercilessly with a 2-lb+ hammer to see if it would break the spokes. The spokes didn't break and the flywheel began to bend in two. I was impressed and wish I'd asked for the test specimen.
Here's the skinny from MATWEB
http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=68fadaeef54842d997815898f58b86e9&ckck=1
I also machine it dry, but use 3-in-1 for tapping.
Enjoy,
Todd.
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Jo,
Good advice on the fondling of castings.
Here are some specific fondlings I've offered to folks working from castings -- and specifically the PW's.
When laying out the machining to be done on the castings, start with the smallest feature and work from there, for example:
- Flywheels, start layout from the crankpin boss and the hub. The outer rim will follow from there.
- Head – start layout from the intake valve guide and the exhaust chamber
- Bed – start on the bottom surface and bring the feet to the right height. All else will fall out from there. Do not skimp here and stop once the casting is cleaned up. (We had a builder do this and ended up cutting the pillars too short, running into clearance problems with the flywheels.)
- Bearing stands – start with the timing gear boss, then the hubs and forward, side-rod stanchions.
By starting with the smallest features, holes, etc. will be centered and the finished product will be at its strongest and look its best.
Enjoy,
Todd.
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Hey all,
The bronze we are using is C87300 Silicon Bronze. I like the mechanical properties, how it machines, and how it looks.
I could turn a 5" flywheel in an evening on my Atlas 10" where it would take 2 or 3 to do the same in Cast Iron. On one of the early flywheel castings, the foundryman did a stress test by taking a flywheel and laying it between two large hunks of metal. He then beat on the hub mercilessly with a 2-lb+ hammer to see if it would break the spokes. The spokes didn't break and the flywheel began to bend in two. I was impressed and wish I'd asked for the test specimen.
Here's the skinny from MATWEB
http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=68fadaeef54842d997815898f58b86e9&ckck=1
I also machine it dry, but use 3-in-1 for tapping.
Enjoy,
Todd.
Thanks for the information Todd!
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Todd, Thanks for the info and the recommendations for working with the castings. Got it printed out and attached to my plans.
Jo, I'm taking your input to heart. I like the idea of "imaginary datum" line. In fact that has already come into play in fondling the base casting. More on that later.
Next up was the needle valve and the speed adjustment screw. I decided to try and make mine out of 1 piece of stock, for each, whereas Bill did each of his in 2 pieces.
Turned, knurled and threaded (not shown) the speed adjustment screw.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030015.JPG)
Then turned, knurled (not shown), and threaded the needle valve.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030020.JPG)
Knurly Dude!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030021.JPG)
Finished.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030029.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030023.JPG)
Next up is to have a go at machining the base...................he says while chewing his nails! :o
Jim
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Got started on the base casting.
Todd had cut most of the gates off of the bottom so I just flattened it a little on my horizontal belt sander.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030025.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030024.JPG)
Looking at the plans, it looked like the top of the base would be the place to use for the "datum line" (thank you Jo). So I set the casting on my fixture plate and then set the fixture plate on my surface plate (aka my table saw table) and used my height gauge and shims to get the surface even all over.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030026.JPG)
Then once it was clamped down, I moved it over to the milling table in preparation for milling the top of the pedestals.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030027.JPG)
I milled the pedestals flat and then moved the fixture plate back to the table saw table and used my height gauge to figure out how much more I needed to mill off. Then back to the mill to mill the rest off. If I'd been a little smarter I'd of marked the side of one pedestal with a line at the required height. Then I could of skipped this extra step.:hammerbash: Oh well!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030028.JPG)
Next up was to locate the position of the mounting holes for the cylinder supports. I'm going to spin the dials the proper amount for these holes, but I needed some marks to give me a starting point and to make sure I didn't miscount handwheel turns. I decided to try chucking a needle in a collet and use that to locate, not only the edges of the casting pedestals, but also the location of the holes. Once I had that figured out, I put layout dye on the top of the pedestals and used the needle to scribe lines in both directions. Does this really make sense or is it one of those "you really had to be there things"? :ROFL:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030031.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030032.JPG)
Then, after I had my "don't screw up lines" made, it was just a matter of starting at point ) 0,0 and spinning the dials and spot drilling.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030036.JPG)
Then drilling and tapping.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030038.JPG)
Got it done............that's a relief! :whoohoo:
Next up is milling the bottom.
Jim
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Off to a great start!
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That is a lot of progress Jim. Looking great so far and I am enjoying following your progress.
Bill
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If that's anything like the base on my Joy engine, don't move the casting off the table until all the machining possible is done to ensure that it all lines up or is perpendicular to the centerline.
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Got back to work on the bottom of the base. I bolted the pedestals to a piece of 1/4" 6061, fastened that to my fixture plate and milled the bottom flat.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030040.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030042.JPG)
Then moved the base back to the table saw table and used my height gauge to determine how much more needed to be milled off to bring it into spec.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030043.JPG)
Then back to the mill to mill off the determined amount.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030044.JPG)
Turned the base over and determined the location for the mounting holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030047.JPG)
Spot drilled and drilled.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030048.JPG)
Done.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030049.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030050.JPG)
I saw a picture like this on Bill's thread and wanted one of my own. :)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030051.JPG)
Now for a major equipment cleanup..............I've got bronze chips everywhere!
Jim
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Looking good Jim. I've started saving my bronze and brass swarf. Clinkspring made a sweet blueing tray using them and if I ever get enough I might try a meltdown :shrug:
Cletus
-
Base looks great Jim, and now some of the fun bits coming up :)
Bill
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Great foundation (pun!) For the rest of the model. The tooling plate worked out great!
-
Looking good Jim. I've started saving my bronze and brass swarf. Clinkspring made a sweet blueing tray using them and if I ever get enough I might try a meltdown :shrug:
Cletus
Thanks Eric.
I've been saving it myself also....................for the same reason. Or else, if I can figure out how to connect it together, I'm going to make a me couple of those "Brasso" scrubbing pads! :ROFL: Or in my case "Bronzo" scrubbing pads. :naughty:
Jim
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Thanks Bill & Chris.
Yes the fixture plate has turned out to be quite useful.
I've started looking at machining the Cylinder Supports and Bill, your posts #242 & #243 are going to be invaluable. I'd really be scratching my head without them.
Jim
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As you know Jim, I killed one off, got the diameter too small, just a brain lapse. Other than that they aren't too bad.
Bill
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As you know Jim, I killed one off, got the diameter too small, just a brain lapse. Other than that they aren't too bad.
Bill
I remember when you had an issue with one of the Cylinder Collars. Didn't remember you having a problem with a Cylinder Support.
Got a good start on the first Cylinder Support today.
Jim
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You are right Jim, it was one of the collars I messed up on, not the supports. My error.
Bill
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You are right Jim, it was one of the collars I messed up on, not the supports. My error.
Bill
I'll be doing a lot of study before I start on those collars. Lots going on there.
Jim
-
Looking good Jim!
That's a pretty big hunk of metal to strap in your Sherline, but it handled it well. I've only worked with one very small casting set (the one in my avatar), so I don't have much experience there. But it looks like you're having a great time with it so far!
Kim
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Thanks Kim. Once I got the base anchored down on the fixture plate, my mill handled it with ease, as long as I took light cuts.
Next up were the cylinder supports. I did them pretty much the same way as Bill ( Bill's thread... posts #242 & 243) with a couple of exceptions.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030052.JPG)
When I started milling the base, I needed a way to make sure the center of the shaft would be at the proper height (0.672). After I got it milled flat the first time, I took it to the table saw table and using my height gauge and the #19 drill bit (just put a set of pin gauges on my "to buy" list) was able to determine the amount I needed to take off. Also, by checking at each end I could tell if the hole was tilted and then make adjustment to that when mounting it back in the 4 jaw. I went back and forth between the 4 jaw and the table saw several times as I was bringing it to the final dimensions.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030054.JPG)
I used my dial indicator mounted on the cross slide to align the Cylinder Support each time in the 4 jaw.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030053.JPG)
Then it was off to the mill to drill the mounting holes in the base. I didn't have a picture to show, but I used the #19 drill and my DTI to set the base up so the holes would be in line with the shaft. My soon to be pin gauge set would of been nice to have here.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030057.JPG)
One down and one to go.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030059.JPG)
Jim
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Boy you are getting casting-itis for sure :naughty:. Just for a turning exercise, you can always turn your own gage pins. Sometimes it's fun to see just how close you can get to a given dimension without worrying if it fits or not 8)
Cletus
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Looks good Jim, just make sure you have room for the hardware without bumping against that center post. Seems to be a bit more critical on the opposite end supports. Easy to check now rather than at assembly.
Bill
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Looks good Jim, just make sure you have room for the hardware without bumping against that center post. Seems to be a bit more critical on the opposite end supports. Easy to check now rather than at assembly.
Bill
Oh yes...........I know all about that! :wallbang: Had to rechuck and turn the shoulder down, that I'd left, in order to get clearance. These are just temporary bolts............I will go with studs and nuts later.
Jim
-
OK as Paul Harvey used to say here's "The rest of the story". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Harvey
I finished up the other support and got both mounted on the base with temporary bolts (I'll make studs and nuts later).
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030064.JPG)
It took a fair amount of filing to get each support round enough to hold in the 3 jaw for turning. No big deal, but it did leave a finish that I didn't care for. These will get painted, but still would show through the paint I think.
Anyway, I've been wanting to try the following for some time now and this was a great opportunity. I've had a small sand blaster, for about 25 years, that I've used for various projects.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030068.JPG)
So I sand blasted one of the supports and compared it to the un-blasted one.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030067.JPG)
Here's before and after pictures with the supports mounted on the base. I was happy with the results.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030064.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030072.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030071.JPG)
I also sandblasted a piece of 6061 that had a milled surface. It made it look a lot like the aluminum castings of my PMR #2.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030066.JPG)
Flyboy Jim .............................................................. ............................................................................... "Good Day". ;)
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That looks much better. Almost like a casting!
Wait, it was a casting.... :facepalm2: Well, it is again! It did give that casting look back. I take it that sandblaster takes a fairly large compressor to drive?
-
Jim, you may consider one of these to put on the want list. I haven't tried one yet but like the idea. Less air volume, more pinpoint control I expect too, and probably less media consumption. If you have a way to buy from grainger (like your employer) you can get 50lb containers of glass bead media at a more attractive price.
https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-AEC-K-Abrasive-sprayer/dp/B001CJIHFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483109563&sr=8-1&keywords=paasche+air+eraser
Harbor freight also has one for about $28 which is probably fine for infrequent use.
Bill
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Jim, you may consider one of these to put on the want list. I haven't tried one yet but like the idea. Less air volume, more pinpoint control I expect too, and probably less media consumption. If you have a way to buy from grainger (like your employer) you can get 50lb containers of glass bead media at a more attractive price.
https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-AEC-K-Abrasive-sprayer/dp/B001CJIHFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483109563&sr=8-1&keywords=paasche+air+eraser (https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-AEC-K-Abrasive-sprayer/dp/B001CJIHFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483109563&sr=8-1&keywords=paasche+air+eraser)
Harbor freight also has one for about $28 which is probably fine for infrequent use.
Bill
I have one of those, it does a very small area of spray so it takes forever to do even a square inch of blasting. Also quite finicky on air pressure, clogs a lot. I got better results when I found some finer sand than they provide with it. It was useful for taking painted logos off of plastic rail cars, but on metal it does very little.
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That looks much better. Almost like a casting!
Wait, it was a casting.... :facepalm2: Well, it is again! It did give that casting look back. I take it that sandblaster takes a fairly large compressor to drive?
It really did make it look like a casting again. Also, the other takeaway from this is that bar stock parts could be made to look like a casting if desired.
I'm using it with my ancient 1 hp Craftsman compressor. I also have a small portable compressor similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2-Gal-Hotdog-Air-Compressor-0100211A/206470707 It would work fine also. For small work like this, any compressor that would build about 80 psi and had a small air tank would work.
Jim
Edit: Forgot to add that it does tend to be a little messy to use!
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Jim, you may consider one of these to put on the want list. I haven't tried one yet but like the idea. Less air volume, more pinpoint control I expect too, and probably less media consumption. If you have a way to buy from grainger (like your employer) you can get 50lb containers of glass bead media at a more attractive price.
https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-AEC-K-Abrasive-sprayer/dp/B001CJIHFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483109563&sr=8-1&keywords=paasche+air+eraser (https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-AEC-K-Abrasive-sprayer/dp/B001CJIHFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483109563&sr=8-1&keywords=paasche+air+eraser)
Harbor freight also has one for about $28 which is probably fine for infrequent use.
Bill
I have one of those, it does a very small area of spray so it takes forever to do even a square inch of blasting. Also quite finicky on air pressure, clogs a lot. I got better results when I found some finer sand than they provide with it. It was useful for taking painted logos off of plastic rail cars, but on metal it does very little.
I would also be concerned that the finish might be too fine. I'm thinking that the coarser sand gives the piece more of a pitted cast look. Our EAA chapter has a bead blaster down in the hanger. I'll give that a try sometime for comparison.
Jim
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I decided to make the Side Rods next.
I'm making mine out of .250 1018 steel rod. Not the nicest stuff to turn................seems kind of "stringy" for lack of a better term.
Turned one end to size, threaded and center drilled for a live center.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030079.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030080.JPG)
Using a parting tool for a groover, I turned the rod to the correct diameter for the next section.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030081.JPG)
Extended the rod out of the collet and cut a groove to the correct diameter in two more places.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030082.JPG)
Then by using my left and right cutters, I was able to turn this section to the correct diameter.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030083.JPG)
Moved the part back into the collet, cut it off to the correct length, and beveled the end.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030084.JPG)
I didn't get any pictures showing the turning of the other end, but it worked about the same way.
Anyway, here's the completed parts. This should make a great cover picture for the new book I'm writing titled "Side Rods to Nowhere". :atcomputer:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030086.JPG)
Jim
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Nice!
:popcornsmall: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
(me and the shop elves watching along)
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Still looking good Jim!!
Bill
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Thanks guys.
Bill, I'm studying your making of the rear supports, as well as Todd's picture cd, and may tackle those next. That would give me the basic structure that everything else radiates from.
Jim
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It's looking pretty good. Between your build and Bill's I'm starting to get the itch to make one of these.
Tony
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Jim, as I recall the only critical thing other than matching the height of the thru holes if the spacing of the hole on the governor side where the larger gear attaches, so that the two gears end up meshing nicely. The mounting holes are no more difficult that those on the front supports.
Bill
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Jim, as I recall the only critical thing other than matching the height of the thru holes if the spacing of the hole on the governor side where the larger gear attaches, so that the two gears end up meshing nicely. The mounting holes are no more difficult that those on the front supports.
Bill
Tony........................ I'm really enjoying this build so far. Bill's thread has been invaluable. Plus, Todd includes a picture cd, which gives more ideas for machining. You could always do what I did and order the plans ($40 plus s/h) to look over. Then if/when you order the kit there's a coupon for $40 off on the kit...........since you already have the plans.
Bill, thanks for the heads up on the relationship of the crankshaft hole and the hole for the large gear. I can see where that would be critical. For those following, take a look at Bill's build thread: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.450.html Post #455, the 7th picture.
I'm thinking that these rear supports are one of the more involved (busy) parts of the build. All of the dimensions interact with each other. Challenging ................. but I'm enjoying stretching my skills!
Jim
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For the gear hole offset, so the gears mesh properly, a simple depthing tool like clockmakers use is invaluable, especially if you are cutting your own gears. For factory made gears, you should be good with the distance they spec, though drilling a test set on some scrap bar and testing the gears could avoid a serious "oh, swarf!" moment with a small investment in time.
Enjoying the build, keep it coming!
:popcorn:
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For the gear hole offset, so the gears mesh properly, a simple depthing tool like clockmakers use is invaluable, especially if you are cutting your own gears. For factory made gears, you should be good with the distance they spec, though drilling a test set on some scrap bar and testing the gears could avoid a serious "oh, swarf!" moment with a small investment in time.
Enjoying the build, keep it coming!
:popcorn:
That's a great idea Chris!
Clickspring here I come: http://www.clickspringprojects.com/pinion-head-depthing-tool.html What a great way to figure out just how much difference a few thousands make ..........one way or the other. Spacing would be hard to adjust after the fact!
Jim
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Hi Jim,
Wonderful thread. :ThumbsUp: You are documenting the build nicely.Your photos are very crisp and informative.
Bill mentioned the critical issue of determining the distance between gears for a smooth meshing together and Chris mentioned testing the distance on scrap material.
If you notice on my thread, I've not drilled the governor's hole yet. I'll be in exactly the same place - getting the distance right.
I wonder if an eccentric bushing would work. Even if you didn't get the hole in the exact right spot for a perfect mesh, you could rotate the offset busing a hair until you got it right. Hm....
Looking good Jim,
John
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Since the gears are supplied in the form of a length of gear stock for both sizes, I used the dimensions on the plans and it worked out well. There isn't much room in the area so I doubt an eccentric bushing could be worked in and I didn't find it necessary. Good idea though for other applications!
Bill
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Thanks John.
Bill, I have confidence in Todd's plans so, for sure, will be making my holes to the dimensions as called out. At least I hope I'll make them to those dimensions. :shrug: As a learning experience, I'd still like to make some sort of depthing tool to see just how much latitude there is in the separation of the two gear holes.
I hope to get back to work on the bearing supports tomorrow. These are probably my most complicated parts, to date, with lots of dimensional relationships between holes and the mounting base.
Jim
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Over the next few days I'll try and fill in the blanks on the data that was lost with the last meltdown. If I'd of been smart like Chris, and had a copy of my posts stored, it'd be easy to do...................Oh Well...................I'm just glad to see that we're on the road to recovery.
After the Side Rods were finished I decided to make the Bearing Supports, which attach to the end of them.
I needed a starting point and decided to use the column that connects the base to the top. I made a fixture to clamp to the column and then was able to mill the base flat.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030088.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030087.JPG)
While I was at it, I milled the sides of the base parallel to the column. Nothing is at the final dimension. I'm just trying to get some surfaces that are true to each other.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030089.JPG)
Once that was done I re-oriented the part and milled the sides parallel to the sides of the base (still not to final dimension).
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030092.JPG)
That done I could use my height gauge to determine the centerline of the bearing and timing gear holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030091.JPG)
Having that figure, I then was able to figure out how much more needed to be milled off the base to bring the center line to the correct height.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030098.JPG)
Turning the piece on it's side, I once again used my height gauge to determine the centerline of the side rod hole.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030093.JPG)
Armed with that figure, I could then determine how much more needed to be milled off of each side of the bearing.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030092.JPG)
Once the bearing sides were milled to spec I could then mill the sides of the base to the correct width.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030094.JPG)
Next up was milling the base to the proper thickness.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030101.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030102.JPG)
That gets the Bearing Supports to the correct dimensions, so will continue in the next post.
Jim
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Next up was locating the holes for the Timing Gear and Crankshaft. The hole for the timing gear was tapped later when my L.H. 6-32 tap arrived.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030103.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030105.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030106.JPG)
Relocated the parts, milled the ends to length, drilled and threaded the holes for the Side Rods.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030109.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030111.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030114.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030116.JPG)
Re-oriented each part in the vice, trued up, located, and drilled the mounting holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030118.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030119.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030123.JPG)
Made a mounting fixture so I could turn the spigot on the top of each piece and drill the oil hole.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030124.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030125.JPG)
Then it was off to the sandblaster to turn the Bearing Supports back into castings.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030126.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030128.JPG)
Jim
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Next up was the Timing Gear Pin and Timing Gear.
I'll just post the pictures of this process.
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030129_zpswfjzypde.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030129_zpswfjzypde.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030131_zpsvdk61p8e.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030131_zpsvdk61p8e.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030132_zps4k8x1ded.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030132_zps4k8x1ded.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030133_zpsy6kcmrr2.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030133_zpsy6kcmrr2.jpg.html)
The only thing notable about the timing gear is the fixture (similar to the one Todd made) I made for holding the timing gear stock.
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030135_zpsl4wl64um.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030135_zpsl4wl64um.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030136_zps4wrb7x0v.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030136_zps4wrb7x0v.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030138_zpsa3f4wqnu.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030138_zpsa3f4wqnu.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030139_zpsou7sxdjq.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030139_zpsou7sxdjq.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030141_zpsdugr4206.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030141_zpsdugr4206.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030142_zpsflr5mdzg.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030142_zpsflr5mdzg.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030144_zpsg5bnhdh8.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030144_zpsg5bnhdh8.jpg.html)
(http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu17/FlyBoyJim/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030147_zpsove3eese.jpg) (http://s629.photobucket.com/user/FlyBoyJim/media/Machining/Parsell%20and%20Weed/P1030147_zpsove3eese.jpg.html)
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Flying it right by the numbers Captain 8) :cheers:; proceed as filed.
Cletus
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Thanks Cletus,
Continuing on with my catch up.
The next 2 pieces were the Link and Link Pin.
Turned some brass round and threaded.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030148.JPG)
Then over to the mill to mill, drill, and ream for the Link Pin.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030150.JPG)
Machined the Link Pin and checked the fit with the Link.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030151.JPG)
Finished parts.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030152.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030155.JPG)
Jim
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On to the Drive Gear and Running Side Crankshaft.
Turned the Drive Gear collar.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030157.JPG)
Then over to the mill to locate, drill and ream the hole for the Drive Gear Pin.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030158.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030159.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030160.JPG)
Turned the Running Side Crankshaft. Then located, drilled and reamed the holes for the Drive Gear Pin and Starting Handle Pin.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030161.JPG)
Did a test fit.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030162.JPG)
Finished pieces.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030163.JPG)
Fitted in place. There's no play at all and I can turn the Crankshaft by hand. :whoohoo:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030164.JPG)
I think that gets me caught up on the missing posts. Back to the "Regular Scheduled Programming"!
Jim
-
OK................ I'm back to real time now.
I went back and made a copy of all my posts in this thread and saved them in a "Pages" (I'm a MAC user) document. At first I wasn't sure how to do this, but discovered that if I clicked "Modify" on each post it brought up the original entry that I could copy and paste into my document. I'm going to do the same for my other 4 build threads. Now I've just got to get a system set up for saving all the data on my computer! :atcomputer:
Anyway, moving along. Next up was the Pivot, Pivot Yoke and Link Rod.
After making some 3/16" square out of some 1/2" bronze round I cut a slot in the end with my slitting saw.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030165.JPG)
Drilled and reamed for the pin.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030166.JPG)
Chucked into the 4 jaw and centered up. Turned, drilled and reamed for the Link Rod.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030167.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030169.JPG)
Set the RT up vertically and moved the 4 jaw over to it and milled the tab on the Pivot.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030170.JPG)
Made a fixture so I could mill the radius on the end of both the Pivot and Pivot Yoke. Worked good. The rod you see threaded into the Pivot is the Link Rod before I bent it to the shape called for.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030171.JPG)
After I was done using the Link Rod, I bent it to the required 15 degree angle, much the same way as Bill did.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030172.JPG)
Finished parts...........awaiting something to hold them in position.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030173.JPG)
It may have been in this thread or maybe my last build thread, but I remember having a discussion about the hassle I was having threading steel rod. Anyway, when I did my last order with MSC, I added a 5-40 OSG die to the order so I could try out a better die than what I had. Well I got to try it out in making up the Link Rod. Holy cow what a difference! It cut like butter...........to use an over-used phrase. I'm sure there's even better ones out there, but I was really impressed and will be getting more.
Jim
-
Nicely done!
I've never tried cutting the radius on the end like you did, though I have seen it described. How does it work out in practice? A number of light cuts, moving the rod slowly? Seems like it would have a tendency to grab, did you experience any of that?
-
Nicely done!
I've never tried cutting the radius on the end like you did, though I have seen it described. How does it work out in practice? A number of light cuts, moving the rod slowly? Seems like it would have a tendency to grab, did you experience any of that?
As you said, I did light cuts and moved the rod slowly and didn't have any problems with grabbing. Having a 2" handle on the piece probably helped. My fixture could of been improved on however. I did have to hold the link down with a piece of scrap wood in order to keep it flat on the fixture. Shouldn't be too hard to come up with a better way to hold it down. I could of done it on the RT as well, but this seemed simpler.
Jim
-
Truly sharp tools make all the difference, Jim. It doesn't matter what the purpose, the edges must be right or there's no joy that day!! I have some cans that I put dull stuff in. When the pile gets big enough, or I start to run out of sharp tools, then I go to sharpening mode. I either send 'em out or do 'em here (if I can). Too many parts ruined over the years..... :hammerbash:
And I gave up buying cheap. Just isn't worth the frustration. I've never done the numbers but I'll bet that cheap actually costs way more...
I'm lovin' your build!!!
:cheers:
Pete
-
Nice work on the link rod. Glad your OSG die worked well for you. I looked at those and they aren't inexpensive, so its a good thing it worked well!
Looking good Jim!
Kim
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Truly sharp tools make all the difference, Jim. It doesn't matter what the purpose, the edges must be right or there's no joy that day!! I have some cans that I put dull stuff in. When the pile gets big enough, or I start to run out of sharp tools, then I go to sharpening mode. I either send 'em out or do 'em here (if I can). Too many parts ruined over the years..... :hammerbash:
And I gave up buying cheap. Just isn't worth the frustration. I've never done the numbers but I'll bet that cheap actually costs way more...
I'm lovin' your build!!!
:cheers:
Pete
Thanks Pete,
I agree completely. Back in my woodworking days, I remember taking the time to do a good job sharpening a plane blade. It felt so good using it. I swear you could give the plane a shove at one end of the board and go down and catch it at the other end! ;) Of course part of that, just like metal cutting tools, was having good tool steel to start with.
I think tomorrow I'll cut a section of 1/8" W-1 tool steel and thread one end with my OSG die and the other with my "Brand X" die for comparison.
Jim
PS: Thanks Kim. I saw your post after I posted. Stand by for the die comparison test tomorrow!
-
Make sure to use a little cutting oil.. that cheap black lard oil that's sold at hardware stores and used in pipe threading machines is pretty much universal for any cutting of carbon steels...
:cheers:
Pete
-
Make sure to use a little cutting oil.. that cheap black lard oil that's sold at hardware stores and used in pipe threading machines is pretty much universal for any cutting of carbon steels...
:cheers:
Pete
Thanks Pete. I've been using a liquid thread cutting oil, but I'll give some of the black lard oil a try. Is that what the stuff is that I often see sitting on lathes in a little container with a brush in it?
Jim
-
Wonderful update Jim. The link rod and clevis look great to me.
Bilk
-
Jim, that's probably correct. I have the stuff in a couple of no-spill 'cups' with a brush, a little squeeze bottle with a metal needle for parting, and an oil can if I want a bunch of it. Which is rare 'cause a little goes a long ways....
Oh, and there are two varieties available; light and dark. I use the light 'cause it doesn't stain as much as the dark but no big deal.
:cheers:
Pete
-
Back to another pair of castings.
After studying Bill's P & W thread forward and backwards, as well as the plans, I decided to tackle the Front & Back Cylinder Collars.
I smoothed the backside of the casting on my belt sander and then chucked it up in the 4 jaw as accurately as I could. After facing the collar to get a smooth surface I discovered that, if I took a cut to just inside of where the solid face starts, I could keep adjusting the 4 jaw for the best fit. Hopefully that makes sense.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030174.JPG)
After boring a hole, so I could get started with my boring bar, I bored part way out to the final size of 1". After I got bored with all that boring stuff :lolb: , I took a time-out and cut the called for relief on the flanges.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030175.JPG)
Then I finished the boring to 1". Looks good enough to me! :naughty:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030177.JPG)
That done I could turn the other 2 steps.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030180.JPG)
Trial fit of the water jacket.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030179.JPG)
Turned the piece around and faced the backside to get the correct thickness.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030181.JPG)
Except for a slight difference in the thickness dimension, the other piece was the same. Here's where I'm at so far.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030174.JPG)
Jim
-
Looking good Jim. Keep it coming
Dave
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Another tedious task done Jim. Those look great too. Well done!! Nice little inside mic there too :)
Bill
-
Outstanding work Jim and still following you bud.
Don
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Thanks Dave, Bill and Don.
Bill, I really like that inside mic. It just needs a Starret outside 1/2" "mini-mic" to go with it! :naughty:
Continuing on, I centered the RT on the mill, mounted the 3 jaw chuck and mounted one of the collars in the chuck. Then offset the table the correct amount, rotated the RT to locate the first mounting hole and spot drilled.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030183.JPG)
Got both the mounting holes drilled.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030184.JPG)
While there, I milled the end to spec.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030185.JPG)
That done to both collars, I re-centered the RT. Then turned the collar over that needs the holes for the head bolts and remounted it in the chuck. Then offsetting the RT the proper amount, I mounted a pin gauge in a collet and rotated the RT until the pin gauge would drop into the mounting hole. That done, and while the pin gauge was in the hole, I loosened the chuck jaws and rotated the RT to get me to a nice even convenient setting............like zero..........and retightened. That way when I need to rotate the RT 60 degrees for each hole, I don't have to deal with some obscure starting figure like 19.6 degrees! :wallbang:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030188.JPG)
Then after offsetting the RT the additional required amount it was just a matter of spot drilling at each position, drilling at each position and tapping...........well you get the idea!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030189.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030190.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030191.JPG)
That's it for now.
Jim
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Coming along great, some excellent work with the rotary table.
I am not familiar with this engine, what are these collars for? Is it a water cooling jacket around the main cylinder?
-
Coming along great, some excellent work with the rotary table.
I am not familiar with this engine, what are these collars for? Is it a water cooling jacket around the main cylinder?
Thanks Chris. I love my rotary table!
You have it exactly right. Check out Bill's build thread: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5467.345.html
post #356...........the 3rd and 6th picture. You can see the collars in position holding the Water Jacket (brass) with the Cylinder Liner (steel) going through the middle. It also shows the 6 bolt holes where the head will attach. What I haven't quite figured out yet is just what keeps the water inside of the water jacket and not leaking outside.
Jim
-
What I haven't quite figured out yet is just what keeps the water inside of the water jacket and not leaking outside.
I know the answer to this one. It's Proseal, mixed so hot that the cup is about to light on fire. Whenever you want to keep water out (or in this case in) the answer is always Proseal. :stir:
Tony
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What I haven't quite figured out yet is just what keeps the water inside of the water jacket and not leaking outside.
I know the answer to this one. It's Proseal, mixed so hot that the cup is about to light on fire. Whenever you want to keep water out (or in this case in) the answer is always Proseal. :stir:
Tony
Oh no............not Proseal..............I've already had enough experience with Proseal on my airplane project! :wallbang: Although I have to admit...........it would certainly do the job!
Jim
-
Next was the milling of the flats for the Pushrod Guides.
I used my height gauge to determine how much to mill off the casting.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030192.JPG)
That done I re-clamped each casting in the mill vice and spot drilled, drilled and threaded. Then flipped it over and did the same on the other side.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030193.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030194.JPG)
Next up was the water jacket. The brass tubing was clamped in the 4 jaw, indicated true and cut to the called for length.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030195.JPG)
I then mounted the chuck on my collet block and located and threaded the hole for the piping.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030196.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030197.JPG)
Turned the block over and did the same for the other end.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030198.JPG)
Trial fitting. :whoohoo: I'm going to wait until I get the Pushrod Guides made and fitted before I mill the outside of the collars.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030199.JPG)
Next up are the Front and Back Pushrod Guides.
Jim
-
Looks great Jim. I think I used some silicon sealer or kitchen and bath caulking to seal the water jacket. With the piping in, and the cooling tower filled, I didn't detect any leaks. Will probably have to redo it on final assembly as things will have to be taken apart for painting, etc.
Bill
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Jim,
It's been a few weeks since I stopped by. WOW! Great progress and beautiful work on your engine.
WRT sealant, I used Red silicon from the auto parts store on mine.
Enjoy!
Todd.
-
Thanks Bill and Todd for the kudos and sealant info.
Todd, I hope you had a profitable and good time at Cabin Fever.
Jim
-
Got started on the Rear Pushrod Guide.
After milling some bronze stock to size, I milled the opening for mounting to the Rear Collar.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030203.JPG)
Remounted and drilled and reamed the hole for the Push Rod.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030204.JPG)
Remounted and drilled the mounting holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030205.JPG)
Milled off extra material in preparation for rounding off.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030206.JPG)
Made a fixture for rounding off. The back hole came in handy for a strap with a pin to steer the collar around. Took shallow cuts and it worked great.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030207.JPG)
Back in the vice to round off the corners.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030208.JPG)
Next up is the more complicated Front Pushrod Guide.
Jim
-
That corner rounding milling cutter did a nice job on that Jim. Why didn't I think of that :noidea:
Bill
-
Moving on to the Front Pushrod Guide.
I'm just going to post some pictures of the process since it was fairly similar to the Rear Guide, with a couple of additional steps. If you get tired of looking at my pictures, you can go over to Bill's P & W thread and see virtually the same ones, since I pretty much followed his lead.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030209.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030211.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030212.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030213.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030214.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030217.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030219.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030221.JPG)
With the guides fitted, I mounted the Collars on the RT and milled the sides to true them up. Then they were off to the sand blaster.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030222.JPG)
Finally got to bolt everything together.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030225.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030223.JPG)
Boy...............for two little pieces milled out of bronze bar stock, I was amazed how much time they took. Lots of operations.
Jim
-
Parts are looking great, but a side question on your mill: just noticed in your pictures, looks like a brass cover of some sort over the leadscrew between the table and the column? What is that? Same on front?
-
Parts are looking great, but a side question on your mill: just noticed in your pictures, looks like a brass cover of some sort over the leadscrew between the table and the column? What is that? Same on front?
It's just that, Chris. It's a brass tube that covers the lead screw. It's attached to the table and as you move the table toward the column it goes through the base of the column and out the back. My mill came that way, so it must be something fairly new. There's nothing in front. I wish there was..........it can get pretty "swarfy" in that area.
As a result the bolts for the column base are offset (think diagonal ) to allow clearance for the brass tube to pass through.
Jim
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That sounds like a nice improvement Jim. That back area can get pretty swarfy too!
Bill
-
Nice work Jim. The round over cutter is doing a great job. Have y'all read any feedback on Sherlines CNC mill?
Cletus
-
Catching up on your thread Jim. Very nice work.
I was particularly interested in the base work. I learned a lot there.
And here I've been thinking that I'd bought all the tools that I was ever going to need! :lolb:
It surprised me that no one jumped on you for that statement.
It's sort of like saying "There's nothing more to learn." :lolb:
-
Thanks Guys.
Bill & Chris: Here's a link to a guy that made a front way cover: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTKFvMCEsD4 Seems a little cumbersome, but not sure what else you could do.
Zee: I've added some new tools during this project. Two that are particularly useful are an inside micrometer and a plug gage set. I'm amazed how often I've been using the gage pins. They go from .061 to .250 in .001 increments. I'll probably get the .251 to .500 set in the near future. Did I mention that I like tools?
Eric: There's lots of YouTube videos out there about Sherline mill CNC. Here's a guy's that I enjoy watching: https://www.youtube.com/user/KenToonz/videos He's building the same clock the Clickspring built, only using CNC on Sherline machines. Or I should say was. He recently upgraded to larger CNC equipment. It's gonna be a really expensive clock! :lolb:
CNC wold be fun, but I'm thinking that just setting up and learning how to do it would be a whole hobby in itself.
Jim
-
Next up, I made some of the parts that mount on the Front Pushrod Guide. These were the Governor Rocker, the Governor Shaft and the Governor Arm.
First up, the Governor Rocker.
After milling some 360 brass to size, I drilled and reamed the holes for the Governor Shaft and the two Governor Pins (one of which will hold the Governor Roller).
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030226.JPG)
Milling the slot. This picture doesn't show it very well, but this slot was milled at a 22 degree angle.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030227.JPG)
New toy! :whoohoo:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030242.JPG)
Continuing on.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030243.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030244.JPG)
Made the Governor Shaft and slotted.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030245.JPG)
Milled the stock for the Governor Arm to size and cut the required slot.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030246.JPG)
Drilled, reamed and threaded the required holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030247.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030248.JPG)
Stood on end, located and drilled the centering hole in the end in preparation for turning the shaft for the Governor Weight.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030249.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030250.JPG)
Mounted in the 4 jaw and used my pump center to locate the center of the shaft. Turned the shaft to 0.125.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030252.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030253.JPG)
To be Continued.
Jim
-
Boy if you don't have all the bells and whistles ringing and blowing :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:. Welcome to the .500" mic club, you'll get hooked on it like, um, um, noise canceling headphones :lolb:. Let me see now, has Bill officially finished his yet? Just saying :lolb:
Cletus
-
Yeah yeah, rub it in Cletus. Just had to many other fish to fry lately, but sure enjoying Jim's take on things too. Nice work Jim!! And yes I need to get my rear in gear and get this one finished up....too many other projects in the wings now.
Bill
-
Nice progress Jim! That pump shaft out the end of the square bar is a tricky one.
-
Boy if you don't have all the bells and whistles ringing and blowing :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:. Welcome to the .500" mic club, you'll get hooked on it like, um, um, noise canceling headphones :lolb:. Let me see now, has Bill officially finished his yet? Just saying :lolb:
Cletus
Eric, so do we ".500 mic" club members have a secret handshake or national get together or anything? I've already figured out that one of the membership requirements is to make sure it shows up in pictures on a regular basis. :Lol:
Bill, my progress is going to be slowing down as the weather gets nicer and the "competing activities" start happening. It sure has been a pleasant way to get through the winter! :)
Chris, the turning of that shaft went quite well with light cuts. It was quite the interrupted cut though!
Jim
-
Well besides the pictures, I haven't give that much thought Jim, however, a get together of owners would be super, how about Cabo San Lucas :lolb: or y'all are always welcome at the Close Enuf Machine Shop, Springbucket Division. Sorry Professor, as Flip Wilson used to say: " the devil made me do it honey " :naughty:. Now don't be using the weather as an excuse, you just have to reallocate your time and with the days getting longer, there's still enough nap time to get all the other stuff done. Ask me how I know ( Lou told me so :lolb:) . Tell everybody hey.
Cletus
-
That is some great progress Jim. Pin sets are on my "get list". I spent years in QC and know how useful they are.
-Bob
-
Nice update Jim and great progress!
I passed up a mint Starrett 1/2" mic a number of years ago at a second hand tool store here in town. I thought that $50.00 was a bit steep but there have been a number of times that I wish that I had picked it up. Especially now that I might be able to join the club. :lolb: Actually I do have an older one with the ball anvil, anybody else have one of these?
Keep up the great work Jim.
Dave
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Come on Dave, let some of those moths out of your man purse. I happen to know MSC will ship to Idaho :lolb: Stan is the original charter member so the secret handshake has to come from him.
Bill
-
I'm disappointed in you Jim.
Probably related to the progress (learning) you've made.
Probably related to the fact you're making parts. Good parts.
I guess I'm pointing the finger at the wrong person. :lolb:
-
Nice update Jim and great progress!
I passed up a mint Starrett 1/2" mic a number of years ago at a second hand tool store here in town. I thought that $50.00 was a bit steep but there have been a number of times that I wish that I had picked it up. Especially now that I might be able to join the club. :lolb: Actually I do have an older one with the ball anvil, anybody else have one of these?
Keep up the great work Jim.
Dave
Thanks guys,
Dave, I got mine on eBay for $52 with free shipping. It's pretty much just like new, with no engravings. I really enjoy using it. Here's a new one that I saw listed on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KUA1WW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MHOKPM8HMPQH&coliid=I19N2H5ZUYPG6R&psc=1 It's really strange........when I first saw it and put it on my Amazon wishlist on Jan. 24, it was $181.34. Since then it has dropped steadily and it now down to $86.07. It seems to have stalled out at that price. All the other ones in the series haven't dropped in price. I'm curious if you click on the link whether or not you show the same price ($86.07)?
Bob, I had no idea just how much I'd be using the plug gages until I got them. I know they'd be handy for a few things, but have found myself using them a lot. I got this set: http://www.shars.com/061-250-steel-plug-gage-set-2?___SID=U I wish I could afford Starrett everything, but unfortunately that just isn't the case.
Jim
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I'm disappointed in you Jim.
Probably related to the progress (learning) you've made.
Probably related to the fact you're making parts. Good parts.
I guess I'm pointing the finger at the wrong person. :lolb:
Once you get your new shop and new lathe and mill, you'll be up and going full tilt again! Unless you spend too much time gazing out the window from your shop with a view! :shrug:
Speaking of which............did your carpenters go on strike or what! No updates or pictures for days now! :stickpoke:
Jim
-
I'm disappointed in you Jim.
Probably related to the progress (learning) you've made.
Probably related to the fact you're making parts. Good parts.
I guess I'm pointing the finger at the wrong person. :lolb:
Once you get your new shop and new lathe and mill, you'll be up and going full tilt again! Unless you spend too much time gazing out the window from your shop with a view! :shrug:
Speaking of which............did your carpenters go on strike or what! No updates or pictures for days now! :stickpoke:
Jim
How many shop elves does it take to drive a framing nail? I would guess 2 to hold the nail, 6 to swing the hammer?
-
I'm disappointed in you Jim.
Probably related to the progress (learning) you've made.
Probably related to the fact you're making parts. Good parts.
I guess I'm pointing the finger at the wrong person. :lolb:
Once you get your new shop and new lathe and mill, you'll be up and going full tilt again! Unless you spend too much time gazing out the window from your shop with a view! :shrug:
Speaking of which............did your carpenters go on strike or what! No updates or pictures for days now! :stickpoke:
Jim
How many shop elves does it take to drive a framing nail? I would guess 2 to hold the nail, 6 to swing the hammer?
That sounds like a new spin on that old saying of "how many shop elves does it take to screw in a lightbulb"............"two elves to stand on the ladder holding the light bulb and six elves to turn the ladder around and around"! :facepalm:
Jim
-
Speaking of which............did your carpenters go on strike or what! No updates or pictures for days now! :stickpoke:
Yeah sorry. Progress is being made. Mostly interior framing, support beams, and some plumbing.
Next week is supposed to be some new windows and I'll post pictures and an update.
-
Jim, this morning the price shows up as $85.78 which is good for that mic. It seems as if amazon can change prices on a dime though if it looks like something is trending.
Bill
-
I'm disappointed in you Jim.
Probably related to the progress (learning) you've made.
Probably related to the fact you're making parts. Good parts.
I guess I'm pointing the finger at the wrong person. :lolb:
Once you get your new shop and new lathe and mill, you'll be up and going full tilt again! Unless you spend too much time gazing out the window from your shop with a view! :shrug:
Speaking of which............did your carpenters go on strike or what! No updates or pictures for days now! :stickpoke:
Jim
How many shop elves does it take to drive a framing nail? I would guess 2 to hold the nail, 6 to swing the hammer?
That sounds like a new spin on that old saying of "how many shop elves does it take to screw in a lightbulb"............"two elves to stand on the ladder holding the light bulb and six elves to turn the ladder around and around"! :facepalm:
Jim
Or, How many software engineers does it take to screw in a lightbulb?
None, its a hardware problem!
-
OK......... now to finish up this chapter of my story.
With the shaft turned, I then moved over to the mill to carve away material as called out.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030254.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030255.JPG)
Rounded over.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030256.JPG)
Family shot of part of the parts for the governor mechanism.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030258.JPG)
After some filing and sanding to get all the parts playing well together, got them mounted.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030260.JPG)
Next up the Cylinder Liner.
Jim
-
Nice!!
:popcorn:
-
OK......... now to finish up this chapter of my story.
Good luck with that. ;D
-
Next up was the cylinder liner. The process went well, but maybe not so much for the result. More on that in a bit.
Turned the length of 4130 to the largest diameter and then turned the bottom section to fit the bottom Cylinder Collar.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030261.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030262.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030263.JPG)
Turned the middle section to the diameter called out.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030264.JPG)
Bored to the required diameter. Remember this picture.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030265.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030267.JPG)
Turned the piece around and turned the top end to fit the Top Cylinder Collar.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030268.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030269.JPG)
Fitted in place.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030270.JPG)
That all worked out great except (why does there always have to be an "except" :shrug:) there's a 0.005 taper to the bore, with the top end being 0.005 larger than the bottom. I don't have a bore gage............yet, so didn't really have a way of knowing that until I turned the part around, after boring, to finish the top end.
So my question for the "Brain Trust" is whether this Cylinder Liner is salvageable during honing or if it's a practice part? It's not a huge deal (other than waiting for more material) since what I learned will make it go way faster next time. Also I didn't use my steady rest until I turned the part around. :facepalm: I think using it during boring may have helped, since the small diameter was at the outboard end and could of been due to flex which the steady rest could of helped to mitigate.
Jim
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Jim, do you have any telescoping gages. They aren't as good as a bore gage of course but I am curious as to whether there is a constant taper or perhaps just the very end of the larger end. This was for me some tough material to machine. My theory is that by the time you got the cylinder down to the required wall thickness, it (rather than or in addition to the tool) may have flexed some, but the closer you got to the chuck the less the cylinder flexed causing it to cut slightly deeper on that end. That is one of the disadvantages of less rigid machine tools and their tooling but you can't do much about that. I think with only .005" taper it can be made good as long as the smaller end is honed more (obviously). Even if you result in a slightly oversized cylinder bore you can adjust the piston (and more importantly the rings) to the finished size.
Bill
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Jim, do you have any telescoping gages. They aren't as good as a bore gage of course but I am curious as to whether there is a constant taper or perhaps just the very end of the larger end. This was for me some tough material to machine. My theory is that by the time you got the cylinder down to the required wall thickness, it (rather than or in addition to the tool) may have flexed some, but the closer you got to the chuck the less the cylinder flexed causing it to cut slightly deeper on that end. That is one of the disadvantages of less rigid machine tools and their tooling but you can't do much about that. I think with only .005" taper it can be made good as long as the smaller end is honed more (obviously). Even if you result in a slightly oversized cylinder bore you can adjust the piston (and more importantly the rings) to the finished size.
Bill
My thoughts exactly Bill. At the end of the process I set my dial indicator up at the outboard end of the tube. I was amazed at how much it flexed by pushing on the tube. I'm sure that using the steady rest during boring would of helped. As you said, that was tough stuff to machine. Sometimes I'd get that nice smooth hiss and sometimes it would sound like gravel (and that was during a single pass.......some areas went well and others not so much).
I'll be getting some telescoping gages. It would of helped to know what I had going on before the part was taken out of the chuck. I'm also going to get a couple grits of Flex Hones and do like you say and see if I can eliminate some of the taper. Nothing to lose. A slightly larger bore is no big deal.
Thanks for your input. I'm enjoying learning new processes..........even if they don't always turn out quite right.
Jim
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I had a similar situation boring the cylinders on my Corliss, traced it back to a slight misalignment of the headstock to the ways. Easy to check by turning the outside of a thick bar and checking with the micrometer. The Sherline has a bar under the headstock to align it, but any grit there can shift it, and there is still possible play in that bar. Worth checking.
-
Definitely another possibility to consider Chris. That little bar under the headstock only gets things "close".
Bill
-
I had a similar situation boring the cylinders on my Corliss, traced it back to a slight misalignment of the headstock to the ways. Easy to check by turning the outside of a thick bar and checking with the micrometer. The Sherline has a bar under the headstock to align it, but any grit there can shift it, and there is still possible play in that bar. Worth checking.
Thanks for the input Chris. I think you're on to something. I did check it (taper) before I turned the cylinder and corrected as much as I could, but there was still some error left, which, if my thinking is correct, would have contributed to the problem.
I'm going to order me a dial bore gage. Even if there was an alignment problem, if I could of known there was a .005 taper to the bore while in the boring process, I could of done a last pass taking .001 off the bore diameter every 0.5" (2.5" long cylinder) which would of put it pretty darn close. I still plan on trying some "creative honing"!
Question: Do you happen to remember what the bore diameter was on your Corliss?
Jim
PS: My project for tomorrow is to do as you said and turn a long cylinder and work on what it takes to get the alignment as close as I can. I'll post the results.
-
Jim, you don't need to turn a long cylinder. All you need to do is make a dumbbell shaped bar, one with a larger diameter at each end about 1/2" long or so, and turn those two ends to a diameter without touching the cross slide dial and then measure the two ends to see if they are the same. That's the standard way.
I have a bar of mystery steel about a foot long on which I have fitted two aluminum discs, 1 1/2" from each end. The bar is center drilled each end. The discs are 1/2" aluminum and held on with LocTite. If the discs get cut down too far they're easy to replace.
The bar can be held in a chuck or collet for single end checking, or between centers for checking tailstock.
Pete
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Jim, you don't need to turn a long cylinder. All you need to do is make a dumbbell shaped bar, one with a larger diameter at each end about 1/2" long or so, and turn those two ends to a diameter without touching the cross slide dial and then measure the two ends to see if they are the same. That's the standard way.
Pete
Thanks Pete.
Just to clarify. Are you talking about making up this dumbbell out of 3 pieces? A large diameter at each end and then a small diameter in the middle?
Jim
-
We were both typing... I edited to describe construction.
Pete
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We were both typing... I edited to describe construction.
Pete
Got it.........thanks. I'll come up with the Sherline version tomorrow.
Jim
PS: Look what I scored a few days ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARRETT-256-DISC-TYPE-MICROMETER-0-1-inch-/122343033349?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=QnC2K0e%252BASvWOjZ71wCcg5gBhdA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc :whoohoo:
-
Sweet!! I don't have one of those, though there have been times..... :facepalm:
Pete
By the way, I have two of those 232's. If'n ya know someone..... GONE
-
Jim:
Great build you have going. Thanks for bringing us along.
I wonder if lapping would better take a taper out than honing? The lap is a fixed, but adjustable, diameter so would grind the smallest diameter more.
Cutting a length of bar would show a taper. I've used a similar technique which doesn't require cutting. Put a round bar in the chuck, like a piece of drill rod. Now mount a test indicator on the tool post and measure the X direction, direction of bars diameter, near the chuck. Slowly rotate the chuck by hand. The readings will likely change a little as the bar rotates. Note the center of the high and low readings. Move the carriage out some, for the Sherline maybe 6-8". Don't touch the indicator, leave it fixed to the carriage. Now repeat the rotate by hand and find the middle of the readings. If life is good, no great, the two middle readings will be the same. If they aren't their difference will be the amount of taper. I hope this makes some sense.
Report back, inquiring minds and all. :-)
Thanks.
Hugh
-
By the way, I have two of those 232's. If'n ya know someone.....
Pete: I just sent you a PM.
Hugh
-
Hugh, replied to your PM.
Pete
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JIm, it's really worth running the test Hugh describes before putting work in to the bar.
Pete
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Jim:
Great build you have going. Thanks for bringing us along.
I wonder if lapping would better take a taper out than honing? The lap is a fixed, but adjustable, diameter so would grind the smallest diameter more.
Cutting a length of bar would show a taper. I've used a similar technique which doesn't require cutting. Put a round bar in the chuck, like a piece of drill rod. Now mount a test indicator on the tool post and measure the X direction, direction of bars diameter, near the chuck. Slowly rotate the chuck by hand. The readings will likely change a little as the bar rotates. Note the center of the high and low readings. Move the carriage out some, for the Sherline maybe 6-8". Don't touch the indicator, leave it fixed to the carriage. Now repeat the rotate by hand and find the middle of the readings. If life is good, no great, the two middle readings will be the same. If they aren't their difference will be the amount of taper. I hope this makes some sense.
Report back, inquiring minds and all. :-)
Thanks.
Hugh
Thanks Hugh. I appreciate your interest.
What you recommend makes sense. I'll give that a go tomorrow. I've got a great setup for mounting my dial indicator. I know there's some error. I've taken out all I could, I just need to figure out how to take out the rest. Might have to make some adjustment to the alignment key.
Pete, I've already used that disc micrometer a couple of times.
Jim
PS: Hugh, I don't know squat about lapping. Any idea where I can learn more? Or purchase an appropriate lap? What you say makes sense.
-
Got it.........thanks. I'll come up with the Sherline version tomorrow.
I'd be interested in knowing more about this. It's not clear to me how or why.
Keep us posted.
-
I had a similar situation boring the cylinders on my Corliss, traced it back to a slight misalignment of the headstock to the ways. Easy to check by turning the outside of a thick bar and checking with the micrometer. The Sherline has a bar under the headstock to align it, but any grit there can shift it, and there is still possible play in that bar. Worth checking.
Thanks for the input Chris. I think you're on to something. I did check it (taper) before I turned the cylinder and corrected as much as I could, but there was still some error left, which, if my thinking is correct, would have contributed to the problem.
I'm going to order me a dial bore gage. Even if there was an alignment problem, if I could of known there was a .005 taper to the bore while in the boring process, I could of done a last pass taking .001 off the bore diameter every 0.5" (2.5" long cylinder) which would of put it pretty darn close. I still plan on trying some "creative honing"!
Question: Do you happen to remember what the bore diameter was on your Corliss?
Jim
PS: My project for tomorrow is to do as you said and turn a long cylinder and work on what it takes to get the alignment as close as I can. I'll post the results.
The bores on my Corliss were about 1.25 diameter and 2.75" long.
-
Jim:
All I know of lapping was learned in building my Webster. See my build log, particularly posts 50-58 (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2981.45.html) on lapping. Note the link in post 58 leads to a thread on my lapping questions. (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,3119.0.html). Finally, in the first post of that thread there is a link to a thread on lapping by Raymon, excellent information. (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1908.0.html) Unlike myself Raymon know a great deal about lapping.
It's a slow method but gives a very nice, round, and consistent cylinder.
PS: Hugh, I don't know squat about lapping. Any idea where I can learn more? Or purchase an appropriate lap? What you say makes sense.
Thanks.
Hugh
-
I had a similar situation boring the cylinders on my Corliss, traced it back to a slight misalignment of the headstock to the ways. Easy to check by turning the outside of a thick bar and checking with the micrometer. The Sherline has a bar under the headstock to align it, but any grit there can shift it, and there is still possible play in that bar. Worth checking.
Thanks for the input Chris. I think you're on to something. I did check it (taper) before I turned the cylinder and corrected as much as I could, but there was still some error left, which, if my thinking is correct, would have contributed to the problem.
I'm going to order me a dial bore gage. Even if there was an alignment problem, if I could of known there was a .005 taper to the bore while in the boring process, I could of done a last pass taking .001 off the bore diameter every 0.5" (2.5" long cylinder) which would of put it pretty darn close. I still plan on trying some "creative honing"!
Question: Do you happen to remember what the bore diameter was on your Corliss?
Jim
PS: My project for tomorrow is to do as you said and turn a long cylinder and work on what it takes to get the alignment as close as I can. I'll post the results.
The bores on my Corliss were about 1.25 diameter and 2.75" long.
Thanks, Chris. I'm looking at a Dial Bore Gage that has a range of .7" to 1.5" and was just trying to get an idea how useful it might be for future projects, as well as my P & W cylinder.
Jim
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Hey Jim
Dial bore gages are tricky to set unless you have a proper setting fixture you will have to use a mic. I have a nice Mitutoyo Dial bore gage and have only used it a couple times in the last 25 years. In my opinion you would get a lot more use out of a good set of snap gages. Starrett makes a good set; that's what I have. I would stay away from the lesser quality sets.
Dave
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Jim I have a bore gauge same as the one your looking at. I have used it quiet a few times and is accurate. Like Dave said it is tricky but once you master it it is accurate to use. I always rock it in the mic to insure it is set right. Since the tips are round it should not show movement when set right.
Don
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Hey Jim
Dial bore gages are tricky to set unless you have a proper setting fixture you will have to use a mic. I have a nice Mitutoyo Dial bore gage and have only used it a couple times in the last 25 years. In my opinion you would get a lot more use out of a good set of snap gages. Starrett makes a good set; that's what I have. I would stay away from the lesser quality sets.
Dave
Thanks for the input Dave. Are these what you're referring to: http://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/S579GZ
Jim
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Hi Jim
Yes those are the ones, they have a set that goes to 6" which is the set that I have. I said snap gages and should have said telescoping gages. The Starrett's have a nice feel and it is easy to get repeatable measurements in the tenths with the proper technique. The one thing is they are limited by the handle length in how deep in a bore you can measure. Dial bore gages usually have a longer handle.
Dave
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Jim I have a bore gauge same as the one your looking at. I have used it quiet a few times and is accurate. Like Dave said it is tricky but once you master it it is accurate to use. I always rock it in the mic to insure it is set right. Since the tips are round it should not show movement when set right.
Don
Thanks Don.
I've been watching some YouTube videos on both bore gages and telescoping gages. It's always fun exploring new territory.
Jim
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Jim you can always make a set of go and no go plug gages.
-Bob
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Jim you can always make a set of go and no go plug gages.
-Bob
The problem I've got is "Go" at one end and .005 "Over Go" at the other. :wallbang:
Got a couple of ideas for a solution though. Once I get the taper delt with, then I'll just make the piston to fit the bore.
Jim
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Jim:
All I know of lapping was learned in building my Webster. See my build log, particularly posts 50-58 (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2981.45.html) on lapping. Note the link in post 58 leads to a thread on my lapping questions. (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,3119.0.html). Finally, in the first post of that thread there is a link to a thread on lapping by Raymon, excellent information. (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1908.0.html) Unlike myself Raymon know a great deal about lapping.
It's a slow method but gives a very nice, round, and consistent cylinder.
PS: Hugh, I don't know squat about lapping. Any idea where I can learn more? Or purchase an appropriate lap? What you say makes sense.
Thanks.
Hugh
Thanks for the info and links, Hugh. I missed your post earlier, but am checking them out now.
Jim
-
Continuing my cylinder saga.
I measured the taper I was getting using a 3" long 1 1/2" diameter piece of 6061 taking light cuts with a sharp tool. Over 2 1/2" of length I had .0024 of taper. I tried all 4 possible orientations of the key and got from .0032 down to .0015 of taper.
The following picture shows the key I'm referring to which orients the headstock parallel to the ways..........sort of. By taking the key out the headstock can be rotated for turning tapers.
Just before quitting last night, I pulled the key in the orientation that gave me the .0015 taper and lightly sanded putting more pressure on the end that needed to be thinner to let the headstock rotate in the direction needed. A couple of tries got me to .0009. :whoohoo: This morning I sanded a little more and after a couple more tries have got the taper down to .0001. I'll take that. Who knows if it's really that close, but my mic said it is. Anyway that works for me!
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030271.JPG)
I was going to wait until I had a way of measuring the whole bore, instead of just the ends with my inside mic, but decided to fool around a little with it. I chucked the cylinder in the 4 jaw and indicated it so it was centered.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030273.JPG)
I then went to the other end and made sure that was centered. It was off several thousands, but I found that I could lightly tap it to where it needed to be.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030272.JPG)
With both ends running true, I set up my steady rest (I didn't do that when I originally bored the cylinder :facepalm:) and rechecked each end for trueness.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030274.JPG)
The bigger end was outboard, so I ran the boring bar to the inner end and moved it to where it just touched the inner wall. Then backed it to the outboard end, moved it .001 closer to the wall and ran it it. As it got about 2/3 of the way in I could hear it starting to cut. :whoohoo: I kept repeating this cycle until it was just touching at the outboard end when I ran it in.
Yesterday I had turned a piece of 6061 that would just slip into the large end of the bore, so I took a slice off of that and made a rudimentary gage to try and run through the bore. It went in with just a little bit of drag in middle and then went to the other end.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030275.JPG)
Pulled the cylinder off the chuck and started measuring. Originally, after boring, I had .854 at the top end and .849 at the bottom end (a .005 difference). Now when I measure it I have .8548 at the top end (checking in 3 places) and between .8557 and .8560 (checking in 3 places) ( a .0012 difference). From what I've read on the links that Hugh posted, I think I'm within "lapping range" now.
The called for bore diameter is .850. According to my calculations, if I end up with a .856 bore diameter, I will increase the displacement by 1.4%. I can just turn the piston to fit the "new improved" bore. At least that's the plan until I learn otherwise.
I still need to drill and tap the hole for the oiler, but I think that should probably wait until lapping and honing (now that I know what that is :thinking: ) is completed.
Jim
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Jim, if you are within .0012" you should be fine. Lapping will reduce that even more I suspect. getting the bore smooth now is the goal.
Bill
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Wot Bill said!!!! ^^^^^^^^ 8)
-
Nice detective work there Jim!
I would consider drilling the oil hole first; otherwise you will be pushing a burr into your nicely lapped bore.
Dave
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Jim-
Great save!
I didn't convey it well above but that was my point about making plug gages. They would allow you to check the cylinder without having to purchase any other measuring tools. Also, they can be made to whatever you need and at any increment.
-Bob
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Jim:
Great job, it all sounds good to me. I'll have to check and correct my Sherline.
I still need to drill and tap the hole for the oiler, but I think that should probably wait until lapping and honing (now that I know what that is :thinking: ) is completed.
I'd consider drilling and tapping before lapping. Drill and tap will tend to put burrs into the bore. Lapping after will tend to remove them. Just what I've heard, but makes sense to my feeble mind.
Thanks.
Hugh
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Jim-
Great save!
I didn't convey it well above but that was my point about making plug gages. They would allow you to check the cylinder without having to purchase any other measuring tools. Also, they can be made to whatever you need and at any increment.
-Bob
And those gages save you a ton of money that can be spent on things that will be used much more than pricey bore gages. Also consider using those cheap, easy, aluminum gage discs for laps..... A tapered thread ( think pipe thread here) in the center (do this when you make the gage to start with) allow the disc to be converted to an expanding lap by just making a saw cut from one edge to near the other. To expand simply screw the taper thread mandrel in a bit.....
Am I making sense here?? I've done this for hyd. cylinders and spool valves and such. Saves time, space and money!!
Oh, lapping after drilling the little hole is the way to go, as the guys have said.
Pete
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:whoohoo:
:pinkelephant:
-
Jim, if you need any glass tubing for the oiler let me know, I have plenty!!
Bill
-
Thanks for the kudos and input guys.
I wasn't sure about having a hole in the cylinder when lapping, but it sounds like the way lessor of 2 evils compared to a burr. I'll drill it in the morning as my first project.........so I don't forget. :Doh:
Bob, it finally sank in as to what you were trying to convey, once I started playing with the crude plug gage I made. At first I was thinking that one wouldn't of let me check for taper, since the small opening was at the outboard end. Now, looking back I could of stopped several thou short of the desired size, made a plug gage to fit, and when it was sloppy at the inboard end I would of known "Houston we have a problem"! :wallbang:
Pete, thanks for the idea for a lap. What I'll probably do this time is buy an appropriate Acro Lap and use that in order to learn how the process is supposed to work. I'll probably still work with your idea since I'll have something to compare with. I'll probably be back with more questions about this. I'm still studying Hugh's links.
Bill, it's funny you mentioned the oiler. I've been thinking about that and all the questions I'm going to have about making one. You did some great documentation which I still have to study in detail. I'm sure I'll take you up on your offer of a piece of tubing (guess I better get busy learning how to bake the standard form of repayment on MEM.........Chris's mint chocolate chip cookies :LickLips: )!
Jim
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Remember to follow my second attempt Jim. The first try was way too large, though the method was similar on both.
Bill
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Yes, I remember that. Now you need to build a bigger engine for the bigger oiler! :naughty:
After I study the construction in detail, I'll be quizzing you about dimensions.
Jim
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Got caught up after my 2 weeks away. Engine progressing nicely.
-
Just catching up Jim; great job on the detective work and repair. You'll love the Acro laps and flex hones. I bought the TimeSaver sample set of lapping compound and there is enough for a lifetime in in. Looking great.
Cletus
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Spent most of yesterday making a couple of things for my lathe and mill. One was a Y-Axis lock to replace the one it comes with........ that doesn't work.
I did get the hole drilled and tapped in the cylinder for the oiler.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030276.JPG)
Then made a couple of pins and the governor roller.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030277.JPG)
I still need to harden the roller, but it fits fine (middle of the following picture) and well..............rolls! :)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030286.JPG)
For a change of pace I started on the pulley casting today.
Jim
-
That's shaping up great. That last picture shows some mighty fine parts.
-
The family shot looks great!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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The family shot looks great!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
It sure does Jim. Amazing how many parts there are to this engine huh?? ;)
Bill
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Thanks guys.
Bill, I know what you mean about lots of parts. When I started, I counted up. For just the basic engine, not counting external things like the wooden base, tank, oiler, hand crank, etc. there are 74 parts. That doesn't count fasteners either. I've made 42 so far. Looking at it it's hard to figure where the remaining 32 parts go! :shrug:
Jim
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Thanks guys.
Bill, I know what you mean about lots of parts. When I started, I counted up. For just the basic engine, not counting external things like the wooden base, tank, oiler, hand crank, etc. there are 74 parts. That doesn't count fasteners either. I've made 42 so far. Looking at it it's hard to figure where the remaining 32 parts go! :shrug:
Jim
74? Not enough for a track set!
-
Remember the old saying:" whose counting " All look great so far
Cletus
-
Thanks guys.
Bill, I know what you mean about lots of parts. When I started, I counted up. For just the basic engine, not counting external things like the wooden base, tank, oiler, hand crank, etc. there are 74 parts. That doesn't count fasteners either. I've made 42 so far. Looking at it it's hard to figure where the remaining 32 parts go! :shrug:
Jim
74? Not enough for a track set!
I know..........I know........................I guess I should of added that only 5 are duplicates. :Lol:
-
Thanks guys.
Bill, I know what you mean about lots of parts. When I started, I counted up. For just the basic engine, not counting external things like the wooden base, tank, oiler, hand crank, etc. there are 74 parts. That doesn't count fasteners either. I've made 42 so far. Looking at it it's hard to figure where the remaining 32 parts go! :shrug:
Jim
74? Not enough for a track set!
I know..........I know........................I guess I should of added that only 5 are duplicates. :Lol:
That makes all the difference! I had lost count on the hauler at 1500 parts... :insane:
The engine is looking great, looking forward to whatever comes next.
:popcorn:
-
Hi Jim
The family shot looks great and I just want to say the finish on your parts looks superb!
Nice work,
Dave
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I guess I should of added that only 5 are duplicates. :Lol:
A good score in my world. When I did my first engine (a casting)...
1st time - crudded up the cylinder...bought another kit
2nd time - crudded up the flywheel...bought another kit
A total of 3 kits.
Then some yahoo on this forum told me I could have just bought another cylinder or flywheel instead of kit. ::)
You do know about the wall of learning right? That's where you keep the duplicates.
-
I guess I should of added that only 5 are duplicates. :Lol:
A good score in my world. When I did my first engine (a casting)...
1st time - crudded up the cylinder...bought another kit
2nd time - crudded up the flywheel...bought another kit
A total of 3 kits.
Then some yahoo on this forum told me I could have just bought another cylinder or flywheel instead of kit. ::)
You do know about the wall of learning right? That's where you keep the duplicates.
Did you send the orphaned parts to Jo?!
-
I guess I should of added that only 5 are duplicates. :Lol:
A good score in my world. When I did my first engine (a casting)...
1st time - crudded up the cylinder...bought another kit
2nd time - crudded up the flywheel...bought another kit
A total of 3 kits.
Then some yahoo on this forum told me I could have just bought another cylinder or flywheel instead of kit. ::)
You do know about the wall of learning right? That's where you keep the duplicates.
Did you send the orphaned parts to Jo?!
No. Oh no. That wouldn't be good enough. I'd send me.
I do sometimes think about a FrankenEngine. :lolb:
But thus far, most of my engines already are. :lolb: :lolb:
-
Chris.......that's an incredible number of parts.........even if there are a lot of them the same.
Dave......... thanks..........I've been trying to do the finish work on a part before going to the next one.
Zee............the 5 duplicates are actually parts that there are more than one of, that I use. I think you're referring to what I call "practice parts". Hopefully I don't have too many duplicates of those! :wallbang: Although there's been a few! :facepalm2:
Jim
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Prototypes, that's what I call cock ups. Since you mentioned finishing parts as you go: go ahead and finish the base in paint or whatever now. For one, it'll make the already nice family shots even nicer, and two, when it starts up you won't have to tear it back down :facepalm2:. I think Otto and JL have the right idea on that method.
Cletus
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Prototypes, that's what I call cock ups. Since you mentioned finishing parts as you go: go ahead and finish the base in paint or whatever now. For one, it'll make the already nice family shots even nicer, and two, when it starts up you won't have to tear it back down :facepalm2:. I think Otto and JL have the right idea on that method.
Cletus
Finish the part yes; paint as you go, probably not going to happen. I want to suffer through tearing the whole thing down and reassembling it again. :lolb:
Dave
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Excuse me Jim: Dave you finish a part before you finish a part, and that I admire: and I still say, even though historically correct, if I could produce finishes like on your build, ain't no way I would paint it. That would be like putting coveralls on a swimsuit model, just saying :lolb:. Thanks Jim.
Cletus
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Excuse me Jim: Dave you finish a part before you finish a part, and that I admire: and I still say, even though historically correct, if I could produce finishes like on your build, ain't no way I would paint it. That would be like putting coveralls on a swimsuit model, just saying :lolb:. Thanks Jim.
Cletus
Eric..........you do have a way with words that sure can get the point across! :lolb:
It's funny you both mentioned painting. I've been thinking the same thing..........especially after seeing how that's worked out for John and Chris. Also the wood base. In fact, just about an hour ago, I got a piece of oak down out of the loft to make the base. Looks like a good time to take a timeout and catch all of that up. Gotta make some studs to replace temporary bolts also.
Jim
-
Got started on the Pulley yesterday and finished it up this morning.
After flattening one side on the stationary belt sander, I chucked it in the 4 jaw and indicated it to get the inside of the rim running true.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030278.JPG)
Trued the side and rim.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030279.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030280.JPG)
Used the compound to turn the 3 degree angle as called for.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030281.JPG)
Bored and reamed the hub.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030282.JPG)
Turned the Pulley around and repeated the process.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030289.JPG)
When I did the first side, it looked great and could of been used without any work in the center. Not so with the other side when I turned it around................as you can see when looking at the center hole in the following picture. So after setting up the RT on my mill I moved the chuck to the mill and used a 3/16" stub mill to mill the inside of the rim so it was running true.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030291.JPG)
Then did the same for the hub.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030292.JPG)
Then back to the lathe to turn off a little of the width. That worked so well that I turned the Pulley around and touched up the other side.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030294.JPG)
Back to the mill to drill and thread for the set screw.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030295.JPG)
After a visit to the sandblaster, it was time to try it out.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030303.JPG)
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm going to take time out to make the wooden base for the base and get some painting and other catchup work done.
Jim
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Looking forward to seeing what you do for the wood base Jim. The pulley looks great though!!
Bill
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Sweet job on the flywheel!
-
Something weird today with Photobucket. My entire picture folder for my P & W build has disappeared. I checked their blog and a few other folks have had the same problem. It must still be on their server because my pictures are still showing up on their thread. I hope it shows back up so I can access it. Luckily I have a backup of the pictures on my computer, but I don't really want to have to redo all the links in my build thread.
Anyway, for now I've created a Photobucket "P and W Number 2" folder for new pictures.
Got started making the wood base. Not much explanation is required.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030307.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030309.JPG)
Looks close enough to 1/2" for woodworking. ;)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030312.JPG)
Cut to length.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030313.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030315.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030314.JPG)
Honest.........my base is in there someplace! :shrug:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030320.JPG)
Jim
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Good work with the brown stuff too there, Jim!
I like your cross cut jig there Jim!
Kim
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Hey Jim
Looks like you are off to a great start on the P&W base; looking forward to seeing the finished piece.
Dave
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Looking great Jim. Looks like you had a better day than I did. :lolb:
Bill
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Got started making the wood base. Not much explanation is required.
Other than explaining yourself...and having unauthorized equipment...to those members who have an allergy to wood.
Not me though. I love wood. :Lol:
-
Hi Jim,
Late to the party on your build, but a fine job on machining for your build !
If you have not already tried it, McMaster Carr has some really fine glass bead that works great for a soft textured
finish.
Brian
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Good work with the brown stuff too there, Jim!
I like your cross cut jig there Jim!
Kim
Thanks guys...............it seemed strange to get back to doing some woodworking.
Kim, that cross cut jig is worth it's weight in gold. Especially for repetitive cuts like cabinet door frames. A number of years ago I built an entire hickory kitchen for our previous home during the remodel and it worked great.
Bill, you definitely had a "bug" day..........posted my input on your thread.
Zee, you better like wood.............you've been looking at it long enough :Lol: with your remodel going on. Not quite the same though, huh?
Brian, thanks for the info. I've been having pretty good luck with my portable sandblaster, but we'll see how it looks with some paint applied.
A little more progress today. Won't be any tomorrow as we have to make a trip out of town. When we get back it's time to strip down what I've done and get some paint applied.
Jim
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Got the base finished, got the parts painted that need painting (there'll still be a few to be painted as they get completed), replaced some bolts with studs and nuts, and have the engine re-assembled and mounted on the base.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030322.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030323.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030324.JPG)
This was a timely step to do, since I need to work on some 1:1 projects for a while.
Jim
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That looks great Jim ! The base turned out very well too.
Bill
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Yo, what would you charge me for one of those sleds for the RedWing? Man that's nice Jim. I think this method is great, makes you work in a "clean" atmosphere, which promotes precision :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
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Beautiful Jim!
I really like the crisp lines and contrast of the different materials. I agree with Bill the base also turned out very nice.
Dave
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Wow! You have come a long way.
That is looking fantastic.
I would be envious and jealous...but I'm more handsome. :Lol:
-
Looking good! That sled cries out to build a machine for it to drive, like a small ice cream maker!
-
Looks great ! I like the wood base, too !
Brian
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Wow does that look nice Jim.
-Bob
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Wow! Beautiful work there Jim!
Did you use brass pins in the sled?
Kim
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Jim, I just caught up with this.... Beautiful! Just beautiful.
Pete
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Thanks for the kudo's guys. It's nice to have it to this point. Still a long way to go, but at least there's something to look at, that looks like an engine. :) Now all I have to do is just keep making and adding parts until it starts running.
Chris.............a miniature ice cream maker sounds nice. I like the idea of having it run something. I wonder how much power it will make? Maybe a water pump. I know...........a popcorn stirrer! :popcorn: :ThumbsUp:
Kim..............yes those are brass pins.
Zee..........I thought you had posted a picture of yourself on the "Food" thread, but couldn't find it. Went back and looked again...........that's when I discovered that you were also in the nice picture of the brunette (upper right) that you had posted. :lolb:
Jim
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Zee..........I thought you had posted a picture of yourself on the "Food" thread, but couldn't find it. Went back and looked again...........that's when I discovered that you were also in the nice picture of the brunette (upper right) that you had posted. :lolb:
Checking me out eh? I was right wasn't I? :lolb:
I would be envious and jealous...but I'm more handsome. :Lol:
Did you note the grin? You can't see what was to the left and right of me.
But nah...it was all about what was in front of me.
An excellent dish.
The food. ;D
-
Before the winter slipped away, I decided to take some time off from my P & W build to put some time into my 1:1 build that I've had going on for a few years. I'm thinking of selling the project, but it'd be hard for someone to take it over at this stage, so needed to "kick the can" down the road a little further.
Had a couple of things to do on the wings to finish them up.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030351.JPG)
Same for the Fuselage and Tailcone. There's still one really big step left to do............see if you can figure out what it is! :lolb:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030352.JPG)
Here's a link to the build log: http://www.mykitlog.com/JimT (If you click on "All" toward the upper right the entire build log will come up)
I'm really looking forward to getting back to my P & W, but will stick with this for a while yet.
Jim
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Holy Aeleron, Batman, there is a heck of a lot of work in that project!! :praise2:
But, where does the boiler for the steam engine go....?
-
Holy Aeleron, Batman, there is a heck of a lot of work in that project!! :praise2:
But, where does the boiler for the steam engine go....?
That would make for some interesting "weight and balance" calculations! :atcomputer:
-
Wow Jim that is really neat. I have a lot of respect for someone who can build a plane and fly it.
-Bob
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That's pretty cool Jim!
The next really big step.... Hmm... assembling the big chunks together to make a plane? :)
Or maybe its adding an engine? :Lol:
Kim
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There's still one really big step left to do............see if you can figure out what it is! :lolb:
Finish it.
Then get back to work. ;D
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There's still one really big step left to do............see if you can figure out what it is! :lolb:
Finish it.
Then get back to work. ;D
Zee............that sounds funny coming from someone who doesn't even know where in their basement their lathe and mill is! :lolb:
Jim
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:cussing:
-
.
That's uber cool and impressive Jim. :ThumbsUp: :)
Nick
-
.
That's uber cool and impressive Jim. :ThumbsUp: :)
Nick
Yes, Jim's comment to Mr. Zee was.
-Bob
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Just catching up. Nice fuselage Captain. I'll have to say that a man that builds his own plane and flies it, definitely has trust in his craftsmanship, the utmost trust. Maybe you can use the P&W for stress relief like us poor working souls do :stir: :Jester: Carry on.
Eric
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Holy cow! My last post of showing any progress on my P & W build was last Feb. 22! :wallbang: Where the heck did the time go! Well I did put a couple of dedicated months into my airplane project. Then sold the motorhome and my truck and bought a new (to us) travel trailer and pickup. Did some traveling and tons of yard work. Also some flying and motorcycle riding. But, unlike Stan, my banjo stayed in the closet! :shrug:
Anyway, back to the subject of this thread. Next up for me, with this project, was to start machining on the head casting. Since I'd been away from the project and any machining for a long time, I wasn't real comfortable with that. I need something to do to get my head and hand back into the game. I needed a stand-alone project that wasn't too involved, so I started on the fuel/coolant tank.
Bill had done some good documentation on his thread, so I had something to go by.
Chucked up a piece of brass round and went off to figure out what to do next..............oh yeah ....................turn it down to the correct diameter to fit the brass tank tubing. Success............not only figuring out what to do, but also remembering how to post pictures! :whoohoo:
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030438.JPG)
Used a parting tool to get enough of a groove in the stock, that I could us my Saz-all to slice it off.
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030439.JPG)
Faced it off to the correct thickness for the base.
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030440.JPG)
Turned the piece around, re-chucked and moved it over to the mill on the rotary table.
Milled some of the center out.
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030441.JPG)
Then a ball end mill to go to the necessary depth.
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030442.JPG)
Then back to the lathe to turn the cone in the bottom of the base.
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030443.JPG)
(http://listerengine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030444.JPG)
More to come.
Jim
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Sounds like you've also been very busy! Hope you enjoyed your travels with your new trailer.
Looks like a great start to your tank!
In that last picture, is the inner part a cone? Or is that just an optical illusion from the circular cutting pattern?
Kim
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Nice to have you back in the shop!!!
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Good to see you back on this Jim, though now I feel even guiltier and need to get mine finished up....as soon as the Pearl is done.
Bill
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Thanks guys. It's good to be back at it. Not putting in a lot of time each day, but gradually getting ramped up.
Kim, it is a cone. Helps to route the last of the fuel to the outlet.
Bill, once I get caught up to you, I'll be on you to lead me forward to the next step! :help: :naughty:
Jim
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Kim, it is a cone. Helps to route the last of the fuel to the outlet.
Ah, makes sense! Thanks Jim,
Kim
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Turned the tank base over and re-chucked. Located and drilled the mounting holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030446.JPG)
Back to the lathe and turned the base to the requires diameter.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030447.JPG)
Then it was back to the mill to mill away the waste material.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030449.JPG)
Looks like some kind of art work. :)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030450.JPG)
Cut away the waste, then after making some filing buttons (or in my case sanding buttons), I shaped the mounting lugs.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030452.JPG)
Here's the tank base and baffle (that will be soldered into the tube between the coolant and fuel tank sections).
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030457.JPG)
Next up is the tank (s) tube.
Jim
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Very nice job on the base Jim. The hard part pf the tank is done now!!
Bill
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Got the rest of the parts for the fuel/coolant tank finished up.
Cut the tubing to length. I need to go back and find out just what brass this tubing was............it was really tough to cut! :wallbang:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030453.JPG)
Squared up the tank base and drilled for the fuel outlet.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030454.JPG)
Located and drilled a bunch more holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030455.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030456.JPG)
Got all the parts made. I'm planning on plumbing the coolant lines with hard line (like Bill did), so decided to wait until I get to that point before soldering the tank together. Well..........plus I need to learn how to solder stuff like this! :shrug:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030458.JPG)
I think I'm ready to get started on the head.
Jim
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Jim, have you made the baffle yet that separated the fuel part of the tank from the coolant part? As I recall I used soft solder for all of the tank and fittings, a lot more forgiving and the strength of silver solder really isn't needed here. What you have looks great!!
Bill
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Jim, have you made the baffle yet that separated the fuel part of the tank from the coolant part? As I recall I used soft solder for all of the tank and fittings, a lot more forgiving and the strength of silver solder really isn't needed here. What you have looks great!!
Bill
Thanks Bill.
Yes the baffle is made. I remember you mentioned in your thread about using soft solder. I'm planning on doing the same.
It's been fun to get back to this project.
Jim
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That tube was probably C260, aka cartridge brass - no where near as nice to cut as the c360 brass is, but in some shapes its all that is available.
-
Nice work on the tank Jim!
Dave
-
Thanks Guys.
Took a deep breath and got started on the head casting.
Chucked the head in the 3 jaw in what seemed to be the best position and turned it to the correct diameter.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030459.JPG)
Centered the rotary table on the mill as a starting point and moved the chuck and head over to the mill. Used my fly cutter to mill the valve guide part of the casting to the correct height.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030461.JPG)
Located, spot drilled, drilled and reamed the holes for the valve stems.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030462.JPG)
Located, spot drilled, and drilled the mounting holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030463.JPG)
Next up is the inlet and exhaust ports
Jim
-
Continuing on.
Moved the RT to vertical and used Bill's method of rotating it so that the valve guides were horizontal.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030464.JPG)
Then I cold locate, spot drill, drill, and thread the exhaust port.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030465.JPG)
Rotated the RT 90 degrees and did the same for the inlet.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030466.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030467.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030468.JPG)
Jim
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Two things just happened:
I just realized how small this engine is: Sherline chuck!!
It never occurred to me to have the fuel and water in the same tank like that. I always assumed just water. DUH!!
It could never happen anywhere else.
Thank you,
Pete
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Hi Jim,
Just following along and enjoying your build!
It may have been a while since you posted, but now that you've gotten back to it, you're really making good progress!
Kim
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Thanks Pete and Kim.
Located the hole for the rocker arm, spot drilled, drilled and threaded.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030469.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030470.JPG)
Then milled to the proper dimension on both sides.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030471.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030472.JPG)
Tilted the table to the proper angle and milled the side of the rocker arm arm.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030475.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030474.JPG)
So far so good.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030477.JPG)
Jim
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Well done Jim!! I wish they had left a little more casting stock on that rocker arm though, there isn't a lot of material left out there at the tip of it. Was the same on mine.
Bill
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Well done Jim!! I wish they had left a little more casting stock on that rocker arm though, there isn't a lot of material left out there at the tip of it. Was the same on mine.
Bill
Thanks Bill. Yes I was concerned about that myself.
Jim
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Continuing on..... I made my "Bill Lindsey" designed holder for the head, in order to work around the small jaws of the Sherline.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030478.JPG)
This allowed me to turn the rest of the head down to the proper diameter.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030479.JPG)
Then turned the shoulder for the part of the head that goes into the cylinder.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030480.JPG)
Then turned it (gently) to the proper width.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030482.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030481.JPG)
Moment of truth. I know I'm "preaching to the choir" here, but I've got to say that it felt so good when I slipped that head into place and I could screw all the bolts in by hand! :whoohoo:
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030484.JPG)
Next up is the rocker arm.
Jim
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Very nice!!!
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The happy dance really gets started when parts fit like they should but better!!
Oh yeah!
Pete
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Well done there, Jim! That is looking mighty nice!
Kim
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Jim,
Stopped by tonight and saw that you're back in the shop. Congratulations! on a super-nice looking engine so far. Keep up the good work!
I'll check on the rocker stanchion. I know I added some material on top of the valve guides. I may have added some on the stanchion as well. If not, I'll do that next time I've got the patterns in the shop. (We're waiting on a fresh batch due in a couple of weeks.)
Enjoy!
Todd.
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Jim,
Stopped by tonight and saw that you're back in the shop. Congratulations! on a super-nice looking engine so far. Keep up the good work!
I'll check on the rocker stanchion. I know I added some material on top of the valve guides. I may have added some on the stanchion as well. If not, I'll do that next time I've got the patterns in the shop. (We're waiting on a fresh batch due in a couple of weeks.)
Enjoy!
Todd.
Thanks guys.
Todd, A little more material the rocker stantion would be nice , but I think it worked out fine.
Jim
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Got started on the rocker arm.
Mounted a piece of 1/4" square brass in the milling vice and started drilling and tapping holes.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030486~0.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030488~0.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030489~0.JPG)
Started milling material away.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030490~0.JPG)
Here's a picture (after usage) of a jig I made for further milling on the rocker arm.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030496.JPG)
Pretended I had a CNC machine (or in my case "Count Number of Cranks") and milled the rocker arm to shape.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030494.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030495.JPG)
Jim
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That's my kind of CNC! Nice setup for a complex part.
:popcorn:
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Nice progress on the rocker arm's, Jim.
Kim
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Very nice Jim. Great pictures as well.
Bill
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Thanks guys. This rocker arm has been a really challenging piece!
Continuing on. Made the rocker shaft.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030491.JPG)
Then the tappet.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030500.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030501.JPG)
Spent some time filing and sanding. Done for now. Still need to harden the tappet.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030504.JPG)
Ordered my lathe riser block set today in anticipation of working on the flywheels. :atcomputer: While I was at it..... the longer mill column sort of jumped into the shopping cart. :shrug: Christmas came early this year! :cartwheel:
Jim
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:cartwheel:
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Nice screws there Jim!
Ordered my lathe riser block set today in anticipation of working on the flywheels. :atcomputer: While I was at it..... the longer mill column sort of jumped into the shopping cart. :shrug: Christmas came early this year! :cartwheel:
Sounds like you've been a very good boy, Jim! :Lol:
I think Santa will be happy to bring you those new items on your Christmas list!
Kim
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My lathe riser blocks arrived last Friday, so I could get started on the flywheels (there are two).
I was a little apprehensive about chucking them in the 4 jaw by just the hub, so decided to make a fixture to hold them.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030524.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030525.JPG)
I could then mount the rough casting on this fixture and chuck it in the 4 jaw. This would let me center it for turning.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030526.JPG)
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030528.JPG)
This setup worked great.............except..............why does there always have to be an "EXCEPT"! The riser tool holder that came with my riser blocks only accepts 1/4" tools and all my good A R Warner lathe tools are 3/8". There's a 3/8" riser tool holder available, but I didn't have it. I will soon! Anyway, I had some 1/4" tools that came with my lathe, so pressed them into service. They sort of worked and required resharpening a lot (something I'm not real good at yet).
As Bill mentioned in his thread.......the Sherlines don't handle an interrupted cut very good. Once I got down to a steady cut things went better. I've come up with a solution for this issue which I'll show in my next post.
(http://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/P1030529.JPG)
Jim
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Your fixture looks like it worked pretty well there, Jim!
Did you turn it around and do the other side of the fly wheel too?
Kim
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Those Sherline motors must be very powerful. You guys seem to make some large parts without too much trouble. Your 'fixture' is a nice big faceplate. You will use it often I'm sure.
Pete
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Thanks.
Kim, I did do the other side, which will be the subject of my next post. As I said in my post, the Sherline lathe doesn't like a large interrupted cut (with marginal cutting tools) like this. I'll describe the solution shortly.
Pete, I dropped the Sherline into the "back gear" for the cuts. Well.............ok...........I don't have a "back gear" ................so I moved the belt to the lower geared pulley. :shrug: That seemed to help. This flywheel is definitely stretching the limits of these machines. However, as Bill mentioned in his P & W thread, it's enjoyable to work out solutions.
Yes, I think my fixture will get a lot of use in the future.
Jim
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Nicely done on the fixture Jim. I may have to borrow that idea to finish up the second flywheel!! It looks like the fixture eliminates most of the chatter too which was the main problem I had. I did find in the end though that a 1/4" carbide tipped tool seemed to cut best but that could have been a result of my set-up.
Bill