Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: 90LX_Notch on August 19, 2018, 07:28:54 PM
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My next build has begun. It is George Britnell's Inline Four Cylinder Over Head Valve Internal combustion engine.
This will be a long term build due to work and kid related activities. If updates are sparse please inquire with a post. It helps me to find shop time knowing that someone is following along.
Engine Block:
The block is 6061 Aluminum and was first squared.
Somehow the pictures of the more difficult side are not on the camera. I was stumped for awhile as how to get the .062 radius that is called for at the bottom corners and transitions. My .125 ball endmill did not have the required length of cut. I finally realized that if I angled the mill's head at 45 degrees I could machine and blend the required radii.
Fortunately, I do have the pictures for the easier side. I scribed the necessary lines and began to whittle away at the block. Once the required angle was roughed, the engine block was transfered to a fixture plate that allows it to be set for angles in the mill's vice. This particular angle fixture design came from one of the contributors of the "Shop Made Tools" thread at Home Shop Machinist. Once the angle was set the the block was indicated and clamped to the fixture with c-clamps.
Once both sides were machined I started to do some hand blending with sandpaper and stones. I still to do more blending but will hold off until the engine block is completed.
-Bob
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More pics
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Good start on the block Bob. I will be here for the duration, no matter how long it takes :)
Bill
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Thanks Bill for jumping onboard.
I'm excited for this build. This is such a cool little engine. I was blown away by George's video of it when I started in this hobby nine years ago. We all marvel at George's work; but, to actually build one of his engines to print, really opens one's eyes to just how skilled he is. To say it's humbling is an understatement. My skills are going to get pushed beyond their limit. But, that is the only real way to build skills.
-Bob
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:popcorn: and :DrinkPint: in hand: I’ll ride along too Bob.
Eric
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Bob,
Needless to say but if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.
I'll be following every step of the way.
P.S. You will want to put the cam hole in before opening up the crank pockets.
gbritnell
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I think it's safe to say that many of us have a seat for this show!
:ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :DrinkPint: :ThumbsUp:
Pete
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Glad to have you along again Eric.
Thanks George I appreciate it. I've been able to figure out everything so far.
Thanks so much Pete. I am happy that you coming along again for this one.
-Bob
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As I said in another thread...I'm watching. :popcorn:
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I will be following along as well :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Bob
I'm in for the ride ;)
CS
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Hi Bob,
I'm following this one as well. It doesn't matter how long it takes!
David
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Zee, Roger, crankshafter and David thank you for signing on for this journey. Your support, as in the past, is greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to make some progress this week and post it over the coming weekend.
-Bob
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Hi Bob, me too, will wait for each new step of this build.
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I've got my chair slid into position too. Right next to the popcorn :popcorn:
Looking forward to following along.
Jack
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Hey Bob,
Looking forward to following along with your new project.
Dave
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Achim, Jack and Dave, thank you for joining in. It's going to be a long ride.
-Bob
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Engine Block continued:
Unfortunately, I didn't get any shop time this past week. Yesterday, I was able to get a little time in and did some layout work for the next machining operation. I am hoping to get some time in this afternoon to actually do some machining.
As far as the layout goes, I thought I'd post a picture of my Brown and Sharpe 570 vernier caliper in action. It is an old vernier that I picked up that has two holes in it that are for setting dividers. It provides an easy way to set an accurate radius for layout work. I usually don't do layout work and just machine off of the dials from datums. For this particular venture, I have the layout lines to serve as a check and balance to hopefully prevent a machining blunder.
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HI Bob,
Even though I have digitals on my machine I always give myself layout lines for reference.
gbritnell
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George they are a big help with the intricacies of this part.
I literally got called into work Sunday right when I was about to go into my shop. I was able to get in the shop a little Sunday night and installed a toolmaker's button. The button will allow me to indicate accurately on the rotary table to mill the pocket for the timing gears.
-Bob
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Engine Block continued-
After the layout, the block was tapped 5-40 and a Toolmaker's Button was installed. The Button was then carefully moved into position. The Engine Block was then setup on an angle plate and mounted to the Rotary Table. The Button was then indicated true to the Rotary Table; finally, the RT was indicated to the spindle. Then it has just been a lot of cranking of the handles and whittling away at the aluminum. This feature is probably about 90% finished.
-Bob
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Looking great Bob. Glad you are finding some shop time.
Bill
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Thanks Bill. Thank goodness for this long weekend. We had a wedding on Long Island that chewed up most of it. Luckily I was able to get in the shop this morning and machine what I posted above. Now I need to get off of this computer and get back at it.
-Bob
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I got really confused by the photo of engine block.
I don't recall your posting a picture of the project and my googling left me even more confused.
Can you point me to a picture of what you are building?
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Carl a video is worth a million words. It is George's four cylinder. I am currently machining the front of the block. The pocket is where the timing gears will reside.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYKUlcy-g1w
-Bob
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Fantastic!
And thanks. That's going to be a fun engine! :ThumbsUp:
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Block continued-
Once all of the pocket was milled with the 3/16 endmill that I was using, I moved onto the od of the pocket that protrudes beyond the block. I calculated the wall thickness and used my Starrett 220 Multi-Anvil Micrometer to verify the dimension. Next, the bottom edge of the block was indicated square to the table. This allowed me to position x and y in order to cut a .355 radius inside the pocket. The radius is required for the crank timing gear. I used my boring head to cut the radius. The process was repeated, and a .434 radius was cut for clearance for the water pump.
-Bob
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You are on a roll Bob!! Always like following your builds.
Bill
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You are on a roll Bob!! Always like following your builds.
Bill
Thanks Bill! You made my day! I was able to even get a little shop time in this evening. I'll post the pictures tomorrow.
-Bob
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I’m here also Bob. Looks like you are moving right along. ‘Fraid you’re going to have to find something larger than a pill bottle to take this one to shows in though 8)
Eric
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Thanks Eric. Maybe a shoe box to transport this one.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The tangent points of the two internal radii needed to be milled in a straight line along with the outside of the wall. In order to align the radii, two ball bearings and tool blank were used. This worked well and the tangents were sucessfully blended. Next the outside of the wall was milled.
-Bob
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Neat!
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Yeah, neat trick Bob. Have to file that one away.
Bill
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Nicely done Bob!
Dave
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As always, thank you gentlemen for your support.
I posted the bearing trick in "Tip and Tricks" with a writeup.
-Bob
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Off to a great start :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Block continued-
The timing case feature is now complete, sans the threaded holes for the cover and some additional handwork. The .062 radius on the outside back edge was done with a lathe tool that was mounted in a fly cutter. The spindle was locked in position and the Rotary Table was cranked and acted like a Planar with the tool being fed in small increments. This allowed the cutter to cut right up to the corners without trailing away as would happen if the tool was turning in the spindle.
The outside of the small radius for the wall, which was machined in the above post were the tangent was milled, was done in a similar fashion. The boring bar was mounted 180 degrees out from normal as if to cut an od with the boring head. The boring head was carefully turned back and forth by hand. After each cut, Z was increased .010 and the motion was repeated until the depth of the wall was fully cut.
-Bob
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Thanks Roger for your support.
-Bob
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Good to see you getting some shop time Bob. The block is coming along well.
Bill
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As always Bill, thank you for following along.
For a couple of different reasons I put the block on hold. My allergies have been bad and the block requires more concentration than I am able to muster at this point. Secondly, I have the Rivett 608 up on blocks incase the basement floods as Florence moves this way. I was planning on boring the cam tunnel next and was going to set it up on the Rivett with an angle plate bolted to the faceplate.
Crankcase breather-
In order to keep this build moving, I picked off a part that I could get through with my allergy situation. I started the crankcase breather assembly by making the flange. I started with a piece of .750 diameter aluminum and roughed out a blank. The blank was then mounted to the .187 dia. expanding collet that I used for the flywheels in the "Tiny I.C." build. The collet was used to face the back of the blank and was then transfered to a Vee Block, which was setup on the Rotary table. The bolt holes were drilled along with one hole into the collet that allowed the blank to be pinned to help prevent it from moving during milling. The basic profile for the flange was then milled. The smaller radii were filed by hand.
-Bob
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Bob,
Just in case I haven't chimed in yet I wanted to let you know that I'm following along. I have a great respect for George and it is great to start to see people building his designs. Great work so far.
Art
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Nice little part there, Bob.
Sorry about the allergy situation. That's no fun at all. Hope it gets better soon!
Kim
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Thanks Art for following along as well as your kind compliment.
Thanks Kim. Yeah, allergies are not fun at all. I try very hard not to take anything for them and usually they clear up within a day or two on their own. The fall is a particularly bad time for me.
-Bob
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:popcorn: Following along.
Try not to sneeze in the shop. Those small parts will fly.
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Bob,
I started taking Wal-itin by my doctors recomendation it's Walgreen's generic version. Other wise I'd be blowing my nose all summer, oh yeah and sneezing to.
Art
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Block continued-
The cam tunnel calls for a .312 diameter hole, 4.523 deep. In order to get good geometry, the engine block was setup on an angle plate on the faceplate of the Rivett. A toolmaker's button was used to locate the center point of the block. As of right now, I am about halfway through the block with a .250 pilot hole. It is taking an extremely long time to drill the pilot because the lathe is in backgear and the surface speed is far below what a .250 drill requires.
-Bob
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Thanks Art for the tip. Unfortunatly, there aren't any Walgreen's near me.
-Bob
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That's quite a set up Bob!! Hope the allergies are better now.
Bill
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Thanks Bill. My allergies were bad Friday and Saturday. They were good yesterday. I should have quit while I was ahead though. I had a little mishap with the block. The boring bar rubbed and the block shifted on the angle plate. I believe it is recoverable. I just have to add an extra step to the plan that I had in mind.
-Bob
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Hi Bob
Just caught up on this build. Excellent work so far. I'll be following along. Did George have a build thread on this engine? I need a project for this winter, and this looks like a good one. So I need plans.
Gary
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HI Garry,
There is no build thread as it was made long before I had a computer or digital camera. I do have the drawings. Send me a personal email and I'll give you the particulars.
gbritnell
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Thanks for following along Gary.
It will be nice if you pursue this engine also. If we can get a third person (come on Bill), it will be the "Tiny" builds of a couple of years ago all over again.
-Bob
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Unfortunately, I couldn't squeeze in any shop time this weekend.
-Bob
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Well, it has been close to two months since I last posted in this thread. Life has gotten in the way of any shop time. However, I was able to get in the shop today and made a .250 diameter by six inch long boring bar. The bar uses #44 (.086) drill rod as an insert tool bit. I proofed it on a piece of 7075 aluminum using the above setup (faceplate and angle plate) and successfully bored a .300 dia, 1.5 inches deep. Unfortunately, when I went to take a picture, the camera batteries were dead.
Hopefully, I can get more shop time in and start to move forward with this build. Unfortunately, this winter is already stacking up to be bad. We had a 10" storm hit us last Thursday and I have been called out several times since, for icey road conditions.
-Bob
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I hear ya buddy! Stick with it, it'll come back and winter wont last for ever....... 8)
Dave
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Thanks for looking in Dave.
Block continued-
As mentioned above, I made up .250 dia boring bar. It worked well enough to get the job done. The cam tunnel is now through the block.
With Cabin Fever fast approching I have decided to put this build on hold (as though I was making any real progress) and try to finish up an engine that I started on years ago. If I pull that one off in time for CF it will be a pretty neat little engine.
-Bob
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Man I love that lathe......parts look good too!
Dave
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Nice work Bob, and yes what Dave said, I sure wouldn't mind having that lathe in my shop.
Dave
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Your setups always amaze me too Bob. The block is coming along.
Bill
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Thanks for following along gentlemen.
Dave & Dave, yes, I love that lathe. It is the crown jewel of my machines.
Bill, the setups aren't really that amazing. I use to read a lot of old time machinist type stuff. Those guys had amazing setups.
-Bob
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Bob,
Sorry I missed the memo explaining what lathe you have & why everyone is raving about it. :thinking:
Art
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If the link works Art, this is when I bought it. It is a Rivett 608 on the original oak cabinet.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,4646.0.html?PHPSESSID=s8nnihdaloa8lt7c8ujqj0cvd1
-Bob
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Wow, four months since I lasted worked on this.
Block continued-
A .250 diameter ball endmill was used to rough out the location for the crankshaft. (The long range plan is to mill the pockets that that will form the webs of block, then install the caps. The caps and block will then be drilled and bored to the finished diameter.)
The oil holes were drilled and reamed to .0625. I chose to ream the holes because I can insert dowel pins in them for locational purposes for future setups.
I am currently in the process of drilling and tapping the 2-56 holes for the caps.
-Bob
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Bob,
Glad to see you are back at it, more than I can say for myself. Been busy after all.
Art
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Thanks Art. I am glad also. It is so nice to be making some progress on this engine.
Block continued-
The 2-56 holes for the caps were finished up and the milling of the pockets began. A .500 drill was used to rapidly remove some of the material. Next a .500 endmill was used to rough out the pockets. I currently have one of the pockets roughed out and have begun the second pocket.
-Bob
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Good to see you back on this one Bob.
Bill
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Thanks a Bill, as always, thank you for your support. Hopefully, updates will be more frequent now that plowi season is over. I get busy after Memorial Day because of the pools opening; but, it is nothing like plow season.
-Bob
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Looks like your off to a good start Bob I will Be following along!..... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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Bob, not to divert your thread, but you had mentioned some problems with the Tiny IC engine. Have you done any more with that and has it improved. I have found a start up method that works well on mine after it has been sitting (even overight) and still allows for hand starting. If interested let me know and I will send it via PM.
BIll
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Thanks Don.
Bill- re Tiny, it'll just about to start, then foul the plug. My plan is to make a new plug for it. I would still be interested in your start method.
-Bob
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Block continued-
Not as much progress as I had hoped for this past weekend. I roughed out two more of the pockets. I do have a good reason for the small amount of progress. I had an opportunity to buy a mold maker's tools at a great price.
I've been going through them and cleaning them. I am also determining what I am going to keep and what I will have to sell. I can't justify holding onto to tooling that is bigger than what my machines can hold. I also don't need doubles and triples of measuring tools.
I'm very happy. I did get some items that have been on my wishlist for sometime. (Large roll cabinet (9 drawer Craftsman), gauge block set, 0-1/8 Albreicht drill chuck, angle block set, etc.)
-Bob
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Looks like a good score Bob. Have fun going through it all :)
Bill
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Glad to see you back on this one :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: That looks to be a good catch :)
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Thanks Bill. Going through it is more of a pain than anything. I already pulled out the "wow" stuff. Now it is the, do I really need this stuff.
Thanks for checking in Roger. It is a good catch for me. It brings me that much closer to my ultimate shop.
-Bob
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Block continued-
I did manage to get a small amount of shop time this weekend. I finished roughing the last pocket and proceeded to finish part of the pocket. The pocket calls for .125R corners; so a .250 end mill was plunged at the correct locations minus .005 to allow for a finish pass. A .100 step was left on the bottom of the pocket for a .090R fillet that will be milled next. The pocket should be .720 and and I am at .719 with gauge blocks. I can definetely live with that. If I can hold that for the other three pockets I will be very happy.
-Bob
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Good to see some progress Bob. Were the gage blocks part of the new acquisition or did you already have them?
Bill
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Bill the gage blocks are part of a set that was included in my recent tool purchase. They are so nice to have on hand.
-Bob
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Thanks Bob, I thought they might have been a part of the tooling acquisition. Have always wondered how much I might use a set of those but don't have any currently.
Bill
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Block continued-
I was able to sneak into the shop this Mother's Day and make some progress. I used the Zero Setter that I made a couple of years ago and swapped in a .250 endmill that has a .094R. The Zero Setter allowed me to re-establish 0 in Z after changing tools. The pocket was then finished to the correct depth and the .094R was machined at the bottom of the pocket. Both the X and Y coordinates were milled .001 less than in the previous operation so that finished walls were not touched.
The Zero Setter was used and the tools were then changed and the next pocket was milled leaving a .100 step. This is the first project I have actually used the Zero Setter on and have to say that I am very pleased with it. I was able to go to my target depth after a tool swap as though the original tool was still in the machine.
-Bob
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Did you do a build log on the zero setter? I can't seem to find it.
Ron
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Hello Bob,
Some really nice work and the build is looking good.
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Ron-
Thanks for looking in. I didn't post a build thread for it, just a completed project thread. It is just two pieces besides the indicator. A body that was machined for the indicator to slip into and a "pad" to fit over the indicator plunger. If you have any questions or need any clarification do not hesitate to ask. The only thing that I found from using it, is that if you rezero the Z dial during use; when you zero the indicator before changing tools you must note what the Z dial reads and set the next tool to that reading during the change.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5824.0.html
Thomas-
Thank you very much for the encouraging words and for checking in.
-Bob
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Thanks Bob.
Ron
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Last week I was able to finish the pockets as well as the lifter pockets. Things have been hectic so I was unable to post an update. Today I began the lifter bores, a pretty straightforward operation. Well, pooh happens. Somehow, a .187 endmill cut a .215+ diameter stepped hole. The required diameter is .203. As far as I can figure, poor chip evacuation is the cause.
I believe I can save the block by the use of bushings for the two bores that were machined.
I'll post pictures once I calm down.
-Bob
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Commiserations Bob
Been there and done that - or in my case has tried making a hole in a certain diameter and ending up with a very rough one somewhat bigger because of poor chip removal as you said :facepalm:
Best wishes for the repair
Per
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Per-
Thanks for the wishes. I drilled the bores oversize and pressed in some plugs. I'm going to let the Loctite set overnight and try again tomorrow.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The same .250 endmill with .094R was used to finish the crank pockets. It was also used to mill the lifter pockets. As noted above the next operation was the lifter bores. I used a two flute endmill with a high helix that yielded terrible results. Two plugs were turned and pressed into the bad bores. The pocket was once again milled.
For a change of pace, I made a 5/16 diameter boring bar and ground a tool that will be necessary for a future operation on the block. A test cut on a piece of scrap yielded a positive result.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The lifter bores were spotted with a .187 diameter endmill. I am leaving them at that for now because I don't have a .203 diameter reamer.
The next feature that needed machining were the "windows" that provide oil to the main bearings. George calls for the use of a .625 diameter Woodruff cutter. Of course I don't have one, so I made the boring bar and toolbit mentioned above. The bit was then set for a .625 diameter swing. Then the fun began. The tool was side plunged in X axis at the required location. Then it traveled for .100 in Y axis and was backed out. The tool was then lowered .030 in Z and the same cut was made as just mentioned. This sequence was repeated for eight "windows". For the amount of time that I have in this part, I was scared to death using this homemade setup. But, it worked.
Next, the cylinder bores for the sleeves were located and bored. These bores will be used for locational purposes for future machining operations. I ran into a problem with too much chatter from my boring head. To rectify the problem, I ground a tool and used the 5/16 diameter boring bar directly in the spindle. I have done this before with excellent results. The hardest part is setting the tool to swing for the required diameter.
The last operation for this setup was drilling and tapping eleven 0-80 holes that the oil pan will bolt to. Tapping this small is not difficult with the correct tools. A spring loaded Fisher Machine Micro Tap Guide was used along with a simple knurled disk tap wrench. The Tap Guide is reversible with both a pointed tip and a center drilled tip. This allows for the use of different style taps. Thanks to Marv for the disk tap wrench idea. This helps to limit torque and reduce tap breakage.
It was nice to finally remove the Block from the table of the BenchMaster. It has been setup on there forever.
Onto the next setup.
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Impressive work Bob!! Glad you found some shop time.
Bill
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Hi Bob,
I made a 4 flute reamer from the same drill rod the lifters were cut from. Drilled the hole with a #8 drill them reamed with the home made reamer. Lifters fit perfectly. You're coming along. Looks good.
Gary
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Thanks Bill. I can never thank you enough for your constant support.
Gary, I had considered making a D bit reamer; the thought of making a four flute never crossed my mind. I recently bought a dividing head. A fluted reamer might be a nice way to christen it. How is your build coming?
-Bob
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Block continued-
A fixture plate that allows for angles was setup in the Clausing 8520. The idea for this fixure came from the Home Shop Machinist website's thread: Shop Made Tools. The 22 degree angle was set using angle blocks and an indicator. The fixture was then indicated along X. The Block was loosely bolted to fixture through the cylinder bores. The Block was then indicated to the fixture and tightened down. Toe clamps were pushed up against the side of the Block as a security measure in case the block tried to shift during machining.
The same .250 diameter, .094R endmill was used to finish milling the pockets and the 22 degree sidewall of the block. As I moved to each pocket, a simple shop made indicator holder was used to indicate the center of each pocket. This holder clamps to the spindle and allows the tool to remain mounted. This allowed for the Z axis setting to be left unchanged, which was important to blend the walls and floor of each pocket. (It wouldn't have made sense to use the Height Setter, to swap one tool and the indicator, back and forth multiple times.)
The bottom of the block is now done. Next up will be the top and it's details.
-Bob
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Always love seeing your setups Bob. The block is really coming along.
Bill
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Well, it's been five months since any updates to this build. I have been able to get in the shop recently and get some machining done.
Block and Top Plate-
Pictures one and two show a fixture plate that I machined for the next sequence of operations to the Block. There is a .125 radius channel machined the length of the plate. This allows for two .250 broken end mills to locate the crank bore parallel to the X axis of the mill. A .0625 reamed hole is located in the center of the channel and allows for the plated to be indicated. A corresponding dowel pin was inserted into the Block and the Block was located onto the fixture plate with the dowel sitting in the reamed hole. The Top Plate was then placed on the Block and clamped with a simple strap clamp.
George dimensioned the Block features from the Crank centerline in X and the Block centerline in Y . This fixture allowes for a perfect 0,0 in relation to those centerlines as previously machined.
-Bob
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Hello Bob,
Very neat :popcorn:
Have a great day,
Thomas
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Block continued-
A fixture plate that allows for angles was setup in the Clausing 8520. The idea for this fixure came from the Home Shop Machinist website's thread: Shop Made Tools. The 22 degree angle was set using angle blocks and an indicator. The fixture was then indicated along X. The Block was loosely bolted to fixture through the cylinder bores. The Block was then indicated to the fixture and tightened down. Toe clamps were pushed up against the side of the Block as a security measure in case the block tried to shift during machining.
The same .250 diameter, .094R endmill was used to finish milling the pockets and the 22 degree sidewall of the block. As I moved to each pocket, a simple shop made indicator holder was used to indicate the center of each pocket. This holder clamps to the spindle and allows the tool to remain mounted. This allowed for the Z axis setting to be left unchanged, which was important to blend the walls and floor of each pocket. (It wouldn't have made sense to use the Height Setter, to swap one tool and the indicator, back and forth multiple times.)
The bottom of the block is now done. Next up will be the top and it's details.
-Bob
Looks great bob!!!
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Looks good Bob,
Glad to see you back in the shop!
Dave
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Hi Bob
Excellent work. Glad your back at it.
I have all the parts made but not assembled. I plan to powder coat block and pan before finial assembly. Working on a mounting and then will start on the radiator.
Gary
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Thank you gentlemen for your support. Hopefully I can keep moving forward with it.
Gary I look forward to seeing yours.
-Bob
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Block and Top Plate continued-
To make certain that the Top Plate couldn't move, the first four of ten 3-48 holes were drilled and tapped. Screws were then threaded inserted inorder to clamp the Top Plate. This allowed for the strap clamp to be removed. Next, two .0625 dowel pins were located and inserted. Two of the 3-48 holes required a .125 counter bore. An endmill was used to accomplish this. The cylinder bores were then rough bored for locational purposes.
-Bob
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Nice to see progress Bob :ThumbsUp: :cheers: :popcorn:
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Good to see you back on this :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Thanks Admiral_DK.
Thanks Roger. I've been following along on your two cylinder build. I don't get to post much these days but, I still try to follow people's builds.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The first picture shows the block with the Top Plate removed. With the Top Plate removed, the next feature to be machined are the pockets that will form the water jackets.
A .500 diameter endmill was used for the initial roughing. The overall finished depth of the water jackets is 1.040. The rough depth was to 1.035.
Next a .250 diameter long reach endmill was used. The water jackets, like the crank web pockets, call for a .094 radius at the bottom. A .100 ledge was left where needed at a depth of .930. This allowed for the use of a .094 radius .250 diameter endmill to cut the botom radii.
edit- I had some problems with uploading my pictures. The second picture is the Top Plate removed.
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Good to see an update Bob. Looks like some of this recent weather has been keeping you busy outside the shop, but happy to see you are finding some shop time as well.
Bill
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Thanks Bill. Yes, the weather has been keeping us busy.
I have a couple of other pictures that I need to post.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The water jackets were plunged with a .375 end mill to rough them out. As above, a .100 ledge was left. Then a .250 long reach end mill was used to finish the walls. Next, a .250 ball end mill with a .094 radius was used to finish each pocket. This created the .094 radius that transitions from the floor to each wall.
-Bob
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Block continued-
The block has 10 holes for the head bolts that have a .099 radius brow around them within the water jacket. The only way that I could do this was with the rotary table.
The rotary table was centered to the spindle and my universal fixture plate was then clamped to it. The setup procedure was as follows: a center was placed in the spindle and lowered into a bolt hole. The block was then clamped to the fixture plate. The block was then indicated parallel to the x axis. A .250 diameter long reach end mill was used. X was adjusted .240 (.099R+1/2 the endmill diameter + .016) for the first pass. The endmill was plunged to a depth of .946 and brow was cut. Next, X was adjusted to .224 for the final pass.
A .250 diameter endmill with a .090 corner radius was next used at a depth of 1.040. X was adjusted to .225 so the endmill would not rub the wall as it cut the .090 radius at the bottom of the water jacket.
What I love about this, is no one will ever see all this work once the top plate is in place with the cylinders pressed in. I could have left everything with sharp corners; but, that would not have helped me improve my skill level which is what this is all about.
-Bob
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Some nice work there, all done the traditional way by turning the handles. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
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Nice work Bob, enjoyed the update!
Dave
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Impressive rotary table work, thank you for these posts. All looks spot on! Also, love the indicator holder - I shall be copying that idea. Nick
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Good to see you getting more time on the build. It's coming along great! The block is the most time consuming part of the build.
gbritnell
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Unbelievable what can be done with conventional machines :cheers:
Regards Michael
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Wow! That is incredible work. How many hours did it take? Or should that be how many days? (If I were attempting this, I'm certain it would be, how many weeks!)
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Very nicely done :praise2: :praise2: That's a lot of swarf :wine1:
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Wow, thank you all for your kind words.
nj111- That holder also slips onto the spindle of the mill to allow indicating without removing a tool.
George- Yes it is. A lot of planning involved along with all of the machining. The head will eat a lot of time also.
awake- Each hole took around a half of an hour once I got the process down. I have over 100 hours into the block.
-
Block continued-
I've been deemed an essential employee so progress continues at slow pace.
The lifter pocket on the side of the block was milled using a 3/16 endmill. The block was clamped to an angle plate for this operation. Bolts that have been faced on the head were used like jack screws. They were used with tee-nuts in the mill's tee-slot along with a jam nut to add rigidity to the setup. The block was then flipped over and the water passage hole was drilled along with the 0-80 mounting holes for the coolant tube. Next, the location for the crankcase breather was layed out on the 22 degree slope of the block using a spring loaded tap guide as a scribe.
-Bob
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incredible skills with the rotary table, for doing this pocket, certainly a lot of concentration while turning the wheels...
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Thank you Zephyrin. I wouldn't say incredible, just alot of planning with the rotary table.
-Bob
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Very nice work Bob. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Absolutely beautiful machining Bob :praise2: :praise2: My attempts at accurate handwheel turning are far below yours.......inadequate concentration ::) Love this build :popcorn: :popcorn: Regards Terry
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Thank you Craig.
Thanks Terry. I have notes by the machine indicating the direction the part is being machined based on what the numbers on the dials are doing.
My notes look like this:
Cut to Left X minus
Cut to Right X plus
Cut to Back Y minus
Cut to Front Y plus
-Bob
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Hi Bob, very impressive.
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Thanks Achim for your continued support.
-Bob
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Main Caps-
I decided to take a little deviation and start on the main caps. The rough shape was milled and then setup on an arbor in the lathe. A Dremel was used to profile the required .275 radius. I've posted about this technique before, but in a nutshell, the Dremel is set on the tangent and is run back and forth until the profile is produced.
Next, the profiled bar was setup in the mill and a .014 slitting saw was used to slice off the caps.
The caps will be drilled in the mill. The same fixture plate that was used for locating the block will be used. A .250 pin that sits in a radiused groove in the fixture is used to locate the caps.
-Bob
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Well it’s been close to a year without any updates. I did continue to work on this but just didn’t post anything for some of the reasons that were brought up in the “Lack of response to posts” thread. But, a major factor was that my technology had become very outdated. It was ten times harder to move, convert and post pictures.
The attached picture is a “family” shot. The oil pan and main caps are done. The timing cover is done. The tappet cover is done and the water pump is half done.
I do have some pictures of each part being machined if there is any interest.
-Bob
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Just to let you know it's looking good.
Mike
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That's some machining to be proud of :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
I am interested in function, I don't have the patience for finishes like that :(
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Thanks Mike, knowing your work, that is a great compliment.
Thank you Roger. The finish isn’t all that hard to achieve. Sandpaper to remove tool marks and green Scotchbright for the final finish. I try keep the same stroke direction to give a grain appearance.
-Bob
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Bob,
Nice work. Photos of a few more parts being machined would be interesting. I always learn from the setups others devise to hold parts.
Chuck
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Looks really good to me + nice to see that you still progress with this engine.
You mention that the finish is only 'sandpaper' - but it still requires the correct technique or you end up with a lot off lines criss crossing each other in odd angles ... :ThumbsUp:
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Beautiful work Bob. I begin to wonder if you were still going to work on this. I understand about life getting in the way of the hobby. I check in every day hoping to see some progress.
I'm with Rodger on the finishing part. I'm just interested in seeing the work run when I get done. Maybe if I live long enough the better finishes will come along.
Gary
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Thank you Chuck. I will start posting pictures.
Thank you Admiral for your continued support.
Thank you Gary. Hopefully, I can get some momentum going.
-Bob
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Main Caps continued-
A .250 diameter pin was placed in a collet. A driver was threaded onto the Atlas 618 spindle and a previous attempt at the main caps was placed on the .250 pin. A lathe dog was clamped onto the assembly. This setup created a fixture to screw the main caps onto for facing. The caps were then faced on both sides to the proper width while maintaining alignment with the caps center line.
-Bob
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Hi Bob, that looks like a good secure way to machine the faces square.
I am another who reads every post and would be most interested two see how you did those more complex parts.
MJM460
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Hi Bob, I have been a very long time familiar with this time issue between, life, work and shop time.
So I do understand your situation very well.
But for me it doesn´t matter if it is a long term or a short term project to watch.
Your project itself is very interesting and I do read every post with pleasure.
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MJM and Achim thank you both for expressing your interest in further posts.
-Bob
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Rear Main Cap-
This was a “fun” part to make. I goofed a couple along the way.
A one inch bar was placed in a collet in the Rivett 608. A register was turned for future indicating. The cap requires a .275 radius; so, a .550 diameter was turned. A .250 diameter bore was also turned at the same time. The dividing head was setup in the Clausing 8520 and the bar placed in the chuck. The register was checked and the milling started.
Five axis is a big buzz word in the cnc world. This is a manual five axis setup. A .375 endmill was used to mill away half of .550 diameter establishing the required .275 radius. Next, the part was indexed and both the sides and width were milled..
-Bob
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Rear Main Cap continued-
The mounting holes were drilled and the height of the pads were milled. Next the profiling of the .275 radius was done with a small endmill by taking light cuts and indexing by hand. Once the radius was completed, the dividing head was set to 45 degrees and the side of the pad was milled.
-Bob
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Rear Main Cap continued-
The Main Cap was then sawn from the parent bar. It was then placed on the same fixture as the other caps in the Atlas 618 and faced to size. Next came some light handwork with sandpaper and Scotchbright.
I included a picture of the completed Main Cap flanked by two screwups.
-Bob
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Bob I would say it’s a long time coming but hey buddy your getting there all great work.... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
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Bob,
Great progress on the engine. Had to play catch up, life is in the way. I liked the process you used to make the rod caps, Have to file that away for future reference.
Art
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Except from the screws it looks exactly like a full size engine :praise2:
Can you get matching bolts or are you forced to do those yourself ?
Per
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Don thanks for still tuning in.
Art thank you and I’m happy that you have filed that process away for future reference. That has always been my hope that people find some useful nugget from these posts.
Per, I usually windup making the bolts because it is the only way to get the correct look. However, I have a few small socket head cap screws that I have used to hold the oil pan and timing cover on. I really like the look that they provide and McMaster Carr sells them from 0-80 and up in different lengths.
-Bob
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Thats a fine looking block!....Coming along great Bob
Dave
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Beautiful work Bob!
Great to see you posting again.
Dave
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Dave and Dave thank you both for checking in.
-Bob
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Oil Pan-
A parallel was indicated and clamped to the Benchmaster’s table. The aluminum blank was banked against it. Two J&S clamps were used to secure the blank to the table and two toe clamps were used as stops as an insurance policy. The pocket was then roughed out.
-Bob
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Oil Pan continued-
The pan required a five degree angle for the side walls. The head on the Clausing was set to five degrees and both inside walls were milled. The pan was then moved back to the Benchmaster and a long reach endmill was used to rough the sides and the lips.
-Bob
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Hello Bob
It's nice to see more, well executed, 'old school' milling. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
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Still following and enjoying :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
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Thank you Mike and Roger for your continued support. I apologize for taking so long to reply. Work has been crazy in preparation for the Summer Season.
-Bob
Oil Pan continued-
The outside sidewall was milled with a 5 degree tapered endmill. (By luck the endmill was in a toolbox purchase that I had made years ago.)
Next a .125 radius cutter was used along the bottom edge of the Oil Pan.
The Pan was then clamped to an angle plate and a .660 gage block stack was inserted into the clearance pocket for the Rear Main Bearing Cap. An edge finder was used to pickup the blocks in order to determine the centerline of the pocket.
Next a .375 endmill, followed by a .500 endmill, was used to rough out the required .275 radius for the Rear Main Bearing Cap.
-Bob
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Hi Bob,
I like the way you figure out how to set things up. Makes me think you were a professional machinist in another life.
Excellent job on the documentation and the machining. Keep it coming.
Gary
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Gary thank you so much for that compliment.
I was never a professional machinist. I was an inspector for a few years checking complex machined parts. That gave me a solid foundation for “thinking outside of the box” with setups. It also gave me an understanding of geometric relationships of features which is probably the biggest catalyst for my setups.
I was also a CNC operator one summer in college and for a brief period (wife’s maternity leave) eleven years ago. Those jobs exposed me to different workholding techniques.
-Bob
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Oil Pan continued-
In order to get the required .275 radius a 5/16 boring bar was used. The tool bit was set .118 above the boring bar’s centerline (5/16=.312, .312/2=.156, .156+.119=.275). To make this setting, the bar was placed in a collet in the Atlas 618 lathe. An indicator was set to zero on the diameter of the bar. The carriage of the lathe was then moved to where the indicator touched the tool bit. The bit was then adjusted.
Next, the boring bar was placed directly in the spindle of the BenchMaster mill and the radius was machined. I’ve found this method to give a chatter free finish when compared to that of my boring head.
-Bob
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Engine Block continued-
The Top Plate was made and assembled to the block. A spigot was turned in a collet and the faceplate was installed on the Rivett 608. The block was then placed on the spigot and clamped to the faceplate. The Top Plate was then bored and counter bored. A shop made plug gage was used for checking both diameters. After the four bores/counter bores were completed, each Top Plate bore was indicated true and the bottom of the block was bored.
-Bob
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That's looking great Notch!!! It warms my heart to see it being done on a 608!!!
What's the bore and stroke on that?
Dave
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Thanks Dave. The 608 is my baby.
.750 x .875
-Bob
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It's coming along great!
-
That's one sweet looking little engine block! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
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Thank you George. I’ve always had immense respect for your builds. Building this to print has increased that respect a great deal more.
-Bob
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Ron-
Thank you for “tuning in”. I don’t post much but check the site daily and follow most threads. Nice job on the radial and congratulations on a fine runner.
-Bob
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Very nicely done :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
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Hello Bob,
Thats some very impressive machining on the cylinder block. I am full of admiration of you guys who do it all on the handwheels.
Cheers
Mike
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Roger and Mike thank you both for your continued support.
Unfortunately, I was unable to get into the shop this weekend; therefore, I have nothing to post.
-Bob
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Block continued-
An arbor was machined to accept the rough sleeves. The sleeves were then a simple turning job. Note, the bore is not to finished size. This will be done later in the lathe.
The plate was removed and high temp RTV was lightly dabbed around the block’s top surface. The plate was then reassembled and any RTV that oozed out along the outside of the block was wiped clean. I was pleased with result of the seal created along the inside of the water jacket (photo 5).
The sleeves were then coated with Ford Teflon Assembly Paste and pressed into the block.
This was a bitter sweet moment. My best machine work is now entombed within the block, never to be seen again.
-Bob
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At least those are some good pictures for posterity of your never-to-be-seen-again machining. Beautiful work! :ThumbsUp:
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There were pictures!!!! It happened....and it happened with a 608!..... :cheers:
Dave
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Thank you Ron and Dave for your continued support. Hopefully I can get some momentum going and knockout some more parts.
-Bob
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Awwww more progress kept it coming Bob! …. :Love:
:cheers:
Don
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Thanks Don. Happy to see you checking in.
Progress Report-
Last week I decided to start on the head. In the process of squaring the material, a sliver of cast iron went into my left eye. I can usually get foreign objects out of my eye easily; this however, took a few hours and needless to say “killed” any productive shop time. Luckily my eye is fine and I am working on the head today.
I will try to post how today goes later.
-Bob
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Glad you got it out safely - that can be really nasty! Though when I first saw the picture I thought THAT was the sliver...!
-
Yes! Glad you got it out of your eye. Did you have to go in somewhere to get some help?
I noticed that you've got your name stamped in that metal work area in that picture (toward the bottom). Very personalized! ;D
Kim
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Chris-
Lol. That would have really hurt. Thanks for dropping in.
Kim-
No, I considered going to the E.R. at one point but kept at and was able to remove it. My eye was very irritated for quite awhile. The stamping on my bench includes my wife’s name and the year we were married. It was just something I did one day when I had the stamps out for something else. Thanks for checking in.
Head-
The head is made from a block of cast iron. The block was squared. The side walls requires a 6.08* angle. A parallel was clamped to the table, the sine bar was placed against it and indicated. The head was then placed against the parallel and clamped to the table. The parallel was then removed.
George drew the walls of the head without bottom radii. After pushing myself with the engine block with blended radii I decided to add radii to the head. A step was left for the radius to be cut. A shop made single lip cutter was used to cut the bottom radius. The cutter took me awhile to make. I’ve had my single lip cutter grinder for close to a year now but haven’t it used it much. The cutter is a 3/16 diameter with a 1/32 radius.
As stupid as it sounds, I had quite the feeling of satisfaction watching the radius form as the cutter machined away the cast iron.
-Bob
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Nice progress Bob!
I recently acquired a Deckel SO grinder and have been working through it. It is in pretty good shape but filthy and neglected. I'm just about finished with it, it will make a nice addition to my shop.
Dave
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Oh man! Engage Safety Squints!
Sorry to hear that bud! Glad it turned out OK.....tell me about that cute depth gage?....hmmmm? 8)
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Dave O.- The single lip cutter grinder is a very handy addition. The Chinese knock off of the SO doesn’t have a real .001 resolution vernier scale which makes putting an accurate radius on the tool a pain.
Dave P.- That gage is a Z axis setter that I cobbled together. In the picture it is sitting on the head and a stack of gage blocks. In the picture I am setting the radius cutter. By doing this, the cutter is set to the plane of the step of the head that the gauge is sitting on. I also used a gauge block stack that corresponded to the height of the step to keep the gauge from tipping and giving a bad setting.
Thank you both for checking in.
-Bob
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Slow but surely Bob but it's coming along great!
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
You were luck with your eye. Many years ago I had been doing some grinding and was sweeping the bench off afterwards. By one of those chances a small piece of metal was flicked up by a bristle and went behind my normal glasses and into my eye :( My wife was out somewhere, I didn't feel that I should drive, I would have had a long wait for a taxi and an ambulance seemed excessive (possibly not where eyesight is concerned :headscratch: ). I got my most powerful magnet, put some clingfilm on it and stuck it in my eye. The chip came out without any damage :) :)
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Thanks George. My only shop time is usually on Sunday. I just keep chipping away at this build. I’ll get there one day.
Roger- The sliver got by my glasses and wound up under my eyelid, very near the eye socket near the eyebrow. Usually, I blink into a glass of water to remove objects from eyes. I eventually got it, but it was by far the hardest thing I ever have had to get out.
-Bob
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Well….
A setback has occurred. I allowed myself to get distracted for one second and I turned the handle the wrong way. More than likely this is a catastrophic “f’up”. The hurt area becomes a .100 thick wall for the valve cover. The endmill traveled .065 into it. I can bore a hole, turn a plug, press the plug in and machine it flush with wall. How it will look is questionable.
At this point, I’m just aggravated with myself and don’t know what path I’m going to take (fix it or start over).
-Bob
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:facepalm:
Very sorry to hear that Bob! I've certainly done that before and it is frustrating.
I certainly feel for you.
Kim
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Been there and know how you feel just take a step back and relax. Then when the head clears regroup. At least that’s what I do because tools start to fly if I don’t. Decisions decisions Bob you’ll get it done….
:cheers:
Don
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What part was that Bob?
Feeling it man!.....Sorry to see that
Dave
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Thanks guys. It’s the head.
-Bob
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Well Tell ya what. the only people who don't make mistakes are those that never do anything....
You have nothing to lose by trying to put a plug in, that reaches up to the top surface, and then machining it back... You could thread it, but not sure you need to, especially without looking at the print.
Love is a wonderful thing, but Loctite is forever!!! 8)......but not tonight
Ifn I was you....I'd walk away for the evening and come back with a better mood....I know I get pissed at myself when I do it.
Dave
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Bob,
As long as it doesn't affect the structural integrity of the part plug it. One thing to consider is if you use a round plug just make sure that any intersecting edges are Fairley close to right angles otherwise you stand the chance of chipping the sharp corners. I have patched many parts in my career.
gbritnell
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Thanks Dave and George I greatly appreciate your input.
I couldn’t just walk away from this. I have already begun the repair. I blued the mistake and turned the spindle by hand until a scratch mark appeared. Then I moved over another .001. Next, the endmill was plunged to depth. Then it was dinner time and I’m now watching a movie with my wife. I’ll pick this backup at another time.
-Bob
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Way to go Bob! and I'm glad you're watching a movie....You internalized a plan...and you are acting on it....nothing bleeds stress off better than that!
Goodonya mate
Dave
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Bob,
What purpose do the indicated slots in the block provide? Do they equalize crankcase pressure between the cylinder sections? Are they for ease of assembly later? And why are they needed on the ends of the block and not just between the cylinders. They do not look straight forward so there must be a good reason.
Probably a simply explanation, but it has me scratching my head.
(https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8373.0;attach=130131;image)
Thx
-
Eccentric-
Excellent question, George’s design uses a splash oil system. Those slots allow oil to the main bearings.
-Bob
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:popcorn:
-
Oil to the main bearings, that makes sense. i see the oil feed holes to the bearings now. ;D :ThumbsUp:
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Head continued-
Last weekend was the Jacktown show; so, I was unable to get into the shop. This weekend was chock full family functions but, I did manage to get some shop time in. I made a plug out of cast iron and pressed it into the head. A toolmaker’s clamp was used to apply pressure against the plug, holding it firmly against the “boo-boo”.
Under any other circumstance, I would feel confident that the repair would work after machining. Unfortunately, after reviewing the print, the “boo-boo” is right where the spark plug hole will be located. Time will only tell. I do have an idea to help increase the odds and will be incorporating it into the “fix”.
-Bob
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Bob,
I am working on my main bearing caps and have been studing your methods. Yours are beautiful, here is a picture:
(https://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8373.0;attach=125370)
I noticed you have not machined the o-ring notch in the main bearing cap or the cylinder block. Was this a conscious decision?
Thanks, Greg
-
Greg-
Yes it was a conscious decision. I plan to machine the o-ring groove with the cap and block assembled.
-Bob
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Breather assembly-
Unfortunately, I did not take many pictures. The tube was made from a solid piece of 3/16 aluminum. The bar was bent while still solid. A vee-block was set up in the four jaw chuck in the Atlas 618. The bar was then drilled and bored.
The flange was done on the rotary table from a turned part. The cap was a simple turning job. The insert for the cap was turned, then milled with a ball endmill. The bolts were turned from a piece of steel that was milled into a hex with the Spin indexer. A 1-72 die was used for the threads.
-Bob
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Nice progress Bob! I see the Atlas!....Where's the Rivett?!! 8)
Hope things are well my friend...
Dave
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Thanks Dave. All is well. It’s winter, so my machining progress slows to a crawl. We’ve been getting a lot of small winter events that we still have to go out for. I’ve been called out the last seven weekends, we were out both Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. It’s just one of those winters. Thankfully I made it to Cabin Fever this year. I was out the next day plowing.
The Rivett is still here. I had to make a set of gears for the carriage feed. I use the Atlas much more because I can leave it full of chips. Whenever I use the Rivett, I meticulously clean and oil it. The Atlas is a “winter beater car” and the Rivett is a classic high end automobile.
-Bob
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Thanks Dave. All is well. It’s winter, so my machining progress slows to a crawl. We’ve been getting a lot of small winter events that we still have to go out for. I’ve been called out the last seven weekends, we were out both Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. It’s just one of those winters. Thankfully I made it to Cabin Fever this year. I was out the next day plowing.
The Rivett is still here. I had to make a set of gears for the carriage feed. I use the Atlas much more because I can leave it full of chips. Whenever I use the Rivett, I meticulously clean and oil it. The Atlas is a “winter beater car” and the Rivett is a classic high end automobile.
-Bob
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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I haven’t updated in awhile. I made all the 0-80 socket head cap screws for the timing cover, side cover and oil pan. It took awhile to develop the tooling and process, but I am happy with the results.
I’m currently planning on returning to the head. I am going to try and salvage the head that I had started on.
-Bob
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Oh man they are tiny - did you make them from stock or modify a bigger screw ? :cheers:
Per
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They are made from bar stock Per. The threads are die cut. The recessed hex is .050 (1.27mm) across the flats.
-Bob
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OK and the recessed hex is where it get tricky or did you have a tool for this too :thinking:
-
Per-
I used shop made tooling. The hex was created by center drilling .045 (1.143) deep with a .032(.812) diameter tipped center drill. Then a .043 (1.092) shop made single lip endmill was used as a boring bar to bore the hole to .046 (1.168) diameter. This produced a “flat” bottomed hole .045 (1.143) deep. Next a shop made broach was used to make the hex.
The broach was guided through a sleeve ensuring that it was centered to the screw which was screwed into a lower section. An arbor press was used to push the broach into the screw.
-Bob
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Wow! That is quite the elaborate process to make your own SHC Screws! That must have taken some time to do that! I'm very impressed!
And then you blackened them? They look very good, whatever you did!
Were you unable to source 0-80 SCHS? Or did you just want the challenge? That is just amazing work!
Kim
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I'm very impressed, not least because they are so tiny. I just love posts like this that show what can be done with relatively simple, and shop made, tooling. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Like RReid and Kim - I am more than duly impressed :praise2: :praise2:
I knew it could be done, but these are the smallest of it's kind I've seen so far :insane: :cheers:
Per
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Thank you Kim, Ron and Per for the compliments.
I did it for the challenge and to see if it could be done. I now have the capability to produce any kind of fastener, based on any combination of features. Also, I want be able to say that the engine is entirely built from scratch; except, for five screws that hold the top plate down. The screws were blackened by heating them and dipping them in virgin olive oil.
When it is all said and done, they are very expensive screws.
-Bob
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Splendid work on the screws :praise2: :praise2: :)
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Splendid work on the engine. The screws are pretty good as well :praise2: :praise2: :)
-
excellent work, certainly the best one can achieve with so simple and shop made tooling...
so much thoughts and skills in these simple tools, impressive !
-
Any updates on this build?
-
I should do an update. I’ve just been crawling along on a remake of the head. I get very little shop time these. I’ve been very busy with my youngest daughter’s activities.
Thanks for inquiring justinwoody.
-Bob