Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: swilliams on July 25, 2012, 11:21:32 AM
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I'm going to build a little rotary valve engine as per plans on the john-tom site,
http://www.john-tom.com/MyPlans/Steam%20Engines/RotaryValveEngine.pdf (http://www.john-tom.com/MyPlans/Steam%20Engines/RotaryValveEngine.pdf)
As a bonus I'm going to attempt to finish my Topsy-Turvy engine. It's build is on it's last gasps, but I need to build a base to put it on and a few other bits and pieces before I can get it started.
Anyway I started on the base. I had some old rusty 10mm flat and got busy on the shaper to get it down to the 1/4" thick plate that was required
First I cleaned it up to 2" wide on the mill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0902.jpg)
Then shaping
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0904.jpg)
Also started on the head, I might finish it off in the mill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0907.jpg)
and this will be the crank.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0906.jpg)
the flat is to get the centre drilled holes in the right spot for turning
Here's the three bits and my topsy-turvey. I'm going to do some fine lapping on the valves before I put them back on
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0908.jpg)
Anyway that's it for now. I'm hoping to get busy on the crank and hacking out the block for the rotary valve on the weekend.
Steve.
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P.S. If anyone else has built one of these or wants to build one, you are welcome to post pictures here. Failing that maybe someone can lower the tone with general silliness :toilet_claw:
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Steve, I'm on board for the ride!
Somehow I'd missed this one thus far on the J-T site; It will make a very nice looking engine when done :)
Kind regards, Arnold
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Steve, that Rotary Valve engine is a nice engine. I have built 2 of them and like to watch the linkage (valve) moving.
We will be watching your build. Have fun.
Ray
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Arnold - glad to have you aboard. You're welcome to build one and post in here if that takes your fancy.
Ray - Nice to hear about your engines. If you've got any pics or a movie, please post it here so we can have a look :)
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Here is an older photo of one of my engines.
Ray
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Looks great Ray :D
just like the picture in the article
Steve
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that topsy turvy engine looks great steve :ThumbsUp: were would someone get the plans for that?
chuck
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Thanks Chuck
The plans are in the book two shop masters.
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/826 (https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/826)
There's several other cool engine designs in that book, so I think it's well worth having. They used to have another Phil Duclos book which seems to have gone out of print. Wish they'd reprint it, I want to buy it.
Cheers
Steve
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Oh they do have it back now. Looks like I've go a purchase to make :NewBrain:
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/819 (https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/819)
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Got a little more done on the rotary valve engine.
I hacked the block out of a big bit of hex steel I have
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0914.jpg)
After some time on the shaping machine, while sitting on a chair listening to the football broadcast on the radio
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0917.jpg)
Here's my current pile of materials
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0920.jpg)
In addition to what I had previously there's now the steel for the block, which is to size, and a bit of steel I'll use to make the bearing blocks to support the crankshaft. The plans have these made of brass, but I'm going to put bushes in mine.
Anyway I'm over using the shaper for now, life's too short :old:, it's all milling and turning from here :zap:
Steve
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Looks like you got a good start Steve.
Ray
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Thanks for the support Ray :cheers:
I attacked the crankshaft today
After centre drilling the ends, I started jamming a parting tool down to make the journals
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0922.jpg)
Here's a pic after finishing off the journals. I just used an ordinary 3/32 x 1/2" hss parting blade with a flat end in a sprung (gooseneck type) holder. A spacer was put in the first journal gap to do the second one, held with a cable tie. The spacer for the second one can be seen in the pic. The journals are only 3/16" diameter so the whole thing is rather springy.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0924.jpg)
Next chopping out the middle. First I rammed the parting tool in. Then I moved to this crank turning tool I made out of 4mm x 16mm (about 5/32 x 5/8") hss for a previous job. It has the middle ground out so it only cuts on the corners, classic crank turning style.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0925.jpg)
Then finished her off
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0927.jpg)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0928.jpg)
I'm going to make the flywheel out of the piece of brass the finished crank is sitting on.
That was alot more fun than sitting next to the shaper :pinkelephant:
That's all for now
Steve
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Really making some progress there. Keep it up.
Ray
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looking good steve :ThumbsUp:
i have made a few cranks and i never thought of using a cable tie to hold the spacer block in the throw area............thanks for the idea.
chuck
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Say Steve, I'm in on this ride, If nothing else just for the "general silliness" you spoke of :Jester: I tell you though, I can almost hear that shaper "thunking" (yes that is a real word) along. I have yet to make a crankshaft out of solid so my hat is off to you. Well done.
BC1
Jim
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Nice work on that crankshaft, Steve. It's so easy for those things to get away from you and ruin the piece. Always a sigh of relief when it's finally finished.
Chuck
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Ray, Chuck, Jim and Chuck
Thanks for your support.
Chuck Foster - I was looking for something to secure them with and the cable ties were sitting there in my toolbox.
Jim - Glad to have you aboard :Jester:, the shaper's definitely been making some thunks lately. I want to put a bigger motor on it so I can run it faster. She's hungry on the power when you try and speed her up.
Chuck Fellows - I know what you mean re. sigh of relief. The old heart was running a little faster at times when I was plunging in; what with the smallest diameter getting smalller and smaller and the whole thing stuck between centres.
:cheers:
Steve
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Made the flywheel this evening. Started with some 1-1/2" brass. Here it is after turning the OD down to 1-7/16" and treepaning the guts out :stir:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_0929.jpg)
Next I drilled and reamed it to 1/4" and then roughed the back out with a parting tool
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_0930.jpg)
Finally I used super glue to stick it on a bit of steel that I had turned down to fit and finished off the other side. I drilled the grub screw hole free style. Just whacked a centre punch mark where it looked right, then lined it up by eye in the drilling machine vice, then drilled and tapped it. Here it is all finished, complete with my greasy fingerprints :shrug:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_0931.jpg)
Steve
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Keep it going. Looking good.
Ray
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Thanks for the support Ray :NotWorthy: :pinkelephant:
Did a little more, drilled some holes in the base. I'm going to hold the pillars on with 3mm cap screws, rather than thread the ends of the pillars as in the plans. I just ground a twist drill to cut the flat bottoms for the counter-bores, old-school style :zap:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0932.jpg)
Made the pillars and attached them. I still need to drill and tap the holes at the top end of the pillars.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0933.jpg)
Then cut up the bits for the bearing blocks. I was a little tight for length so I used a narrow slitting saw
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0934.jpg)
Here's the four chopped up bits I'm going to make the blocks out of
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0935.jpg)
That's all for now
Steve
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Looking Good Steve....I'll be watching too!
Dave
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Thanks Dave
Glad to have you aboard :cheers:
Steve
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Another episode in my mini drama here. Been drilling and tapping holes and more holes :insane:
I stuck the bearing bocks together with some miniature 5BA bolts I had sitting around. Then I drilled and reamed them in the mill. I'm going to put some brass bushes in them. The plans made them from brass without bushes, but I'm just using what I've got
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0937.jpg)
Then I made some bushes in the lathe. The pic shows putting a chamfer on the bush before parting it off.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0940.jpg)
Here's the assembly. I'm not very happy with the bushes so I'm going to make some more. I want to make them a little longer and their bores need opening up a tiny bit. That won't take long :paranoia:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0941.jpg)
that's it for now
:cheers:
Steve
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:whoohoo: Moving along nicely.
Ray
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Steve, nice progress on this engine. Do you split the brass bushings or just leave them as one piece? Would there be any advantage to splitting one side of each bushing?
Chuck
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Hi Ray and Chuck. Thanks for the support and interest
Chuck - I guess in my case the main reason for splitting the bearing blocks was cosmetic. I don't see that I'll ever run this thing to the point where the bearings need adjustment and if I did it's so easy to turn up some new bushes. I'll probably run it once and then put it on a shelf in my office. I'd expect these bearing to last a very long time if one managed to keep a decent amount of oil in them.
Steve
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Some more stuff to report
I made some new bushes. I wanted a little more clearance in them so I made a little boring bar instead of using a reamer. Here's splitting the holder I made for the boring bar, of course one could do this with an ordinary hacksaw just as well
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0942.jpg)
and here's the boring bar I ground up out of a broken 6mm endmill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0943.jpg)
and boring the bush
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0944.jpg)
I next moved onto the base for the cylinder block. I needed to saw it out; was going to do it by hand but then I noticed the milling machine sitting around with a slitting saw already in it
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0945.jpg)
Boring one of the two clearance holes for the piston
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0946.jpg)
and the finished plate sitting where it will be bolted on
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0947.jpg)
That's it for now. Next I'm going to tap some threads in the posts that the plate is sitting on. I'm also going to make some miniature bolts out of some hex stock, which I already have, to hold the plate onto the posts. I like the look of the miniature hex bolts and it's easier to make 4 of them than going to the trouble of ordering them.
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Shaping up pretty good there Steve.
Ray
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Thanks Ray, I was wondering: what did you use to seal the head to the cylinder block? I was thinking of just using some type of liquid gasket product. What do you reckon?
Steve
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Thats coming along great Steve! That's an interesting engine. Can't say that I've seen that one before.
As far as a gasket compound, I suppose a shellac based gasket compound would work....easy to clean off if required,,,comes in a bottle
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/Permatex_Indian_Head_Gasket_Shellac_Compound.htm
I've used this stuff on none steam applications.....as long as you don't flood the engine with alcohol it should work fine.
Don't go hog wild and pig crazy with how much you use or you will glue it all together!.... :ROFL:
Soaking in Alcohol or a bit of heat will break the compound bond and it'll let go.
Dave
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Steve, what Steamer said sounds pretty good. I just made a gasket from brown paper bag rubbed with 10W40 oil. It worked.
Looks good.
Ray
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Thanks Dave and Ray. I'll keep my eyes open for that permatex stuff, I think I've seen it in a local shop :ThumbsUp: I've also got some other concoctions around :stir: that would probably do the job
Made some bolts out of 3/16" hex and put 3mm threads on them (bastard bolts :rant:)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0948.jpg)
Turned down some 5BA washers I had. Their OD was way too big and very ugly. Here's the plate bolted on with my custom bolts and spruced up washers
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0949.jpg)
Doesn't look like much but it took a lot of faffen about. If I had my time over I would have used studs and nuts (which would probably look better), I had some 3mm allthread and nuts to hand also :facepalm:
Ya live and ya learn, well at least I hope so :o
Steve
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The brown paper/oil method should work great too....as a matter of fact...try that first...no investiment...and a lot less sticky!
Like the bolts Steve....Lots of work making those isn't it! :NotWorthy:
Dave
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I find that it is easier and more accurate to make bolts out of round stock and to mill the hex, studs are even easier.
I had lots of problem finding good brown paper to oil up for gaskets (they seem to be waxing the vegtable bags now in my local shop :facepalm:). Lately I have noticed that Amazon has been packing out my parcels with scrunched up brown paper of various thicknesses. A quick iron flat and Bob's your uncle.
Jo
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Hi Jo,
I've done bolts that way, and it works very well....With bolts below say 1/8" diameter thread, I use a filing rest in the lathe to cut the hex. Takes about 3 minutes total to cut the flats...and it has a nice finish.
Then you can flip them and polish the head...either as a flat hex or a dome head hex...
Dave
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Dave,
I only wish I had a vernier on the height adjustment on my filing rest, which is why I always fall back on the mill (which has a dial gauge fitted) and the dividing head.
Did I mention how much I enjoy a good stud? Oops, I meant to say "making good studs" .... slip of the keyboard there :LittleDevil:.
Jo
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Hi Dave and Jo
Thanks for stopping by and adding your valuable thoughts and insights.
Jo, I notice you've built yourself a GHT versatile dividing head. That must make milling the flats a very simple operation? I've got a set of castings to make the beast, unfortunately I don't have the spur gears "worm wheels". The local supplier didn't have them and I keep procrastinating about making them myself or importing them from the UK. In the meantime I rely on a horizontal/vertical rotary table, which is sub-optimal for many of the operations we come up against on a regular basis.
Did I mention how much I enjoy a good stud? Oops, I meant to say "making good studs" .... slip of the keyboard there :LittleDevil:.
:Lol: At least I get what ya mean about the vernier ;)
Dave - I've made a filing rest for my 8mm lathe but I'm not set up to thread on it. On the other had I have my Hercus (9" Southbend clone) all set up with a fancy floating die holder and variable speed drive. I also made some fancy 2" micrometer dials with friction adjustment and vernier scale down to 0.0002" coupled with a dowel pinned gib strip in the home made full length cross slide. The micrometer dial works with good accuracy. I also have a good Bison 3 jaw chuck which runs true. So making the bolts, which were threaded under power, was relatively easy. On the other had tapping the threads in the posts was tedious. Would have been much easier with a helical machine tap. I've gotta get (had a 3mm one but stupidly broke it :facepalm:) one of those ASAP. I've made a hand held tapping drill chuck which is guided by the tailstock just like you have shown in one of your threads. This will be the bee's knees for threading with machine taps under power in the lathe.
Brown paper hey? I think my Dad has some, but he's over 600km's away. Any excuse for a road trip :thinking:
:cheers:
Steve
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P.S. Hope what I just said isn't too inconsistent with my earlier post where I said "it took a lot of faffen about"
You know how it is when you think something will be easy and then 2 hours later you're still struggling to get it finished? That's what the whole tapping, fixing washers, fixing up my die holder and making bolts operation went like. Took much more time than I originally anticipated.
Steve
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"....I only wish I had a vernier on the height adjustment on my filing rest, which is why I always fall back on the mill (which has a dial gauge fitted) and the dividing head......"
Jo,
What kind of tool post do you have?
Dave
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Dave,
It all depends on which lathe we are talking about. :naughty: Lets say a quick change toolpost. Most of my bolts I make on the Cowells, my filing rest fits the Prazimat. I am planning on making a filing rest for the cowells (It is not cost effective to pay the price that Cowells want for their filing rest :ShakeHead: and I have enough photos of the original to be able to make one which would be much more fun :mischief: ).
Jo
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Steve,
Don't get too worried about making the mount and bits for the indexing plate. I have never used mine. But the basic dividing head itself is super! I have made various adapters to allow it to use my BCA collets, a few sleeve collets and an adapter to take a unimat three jaw chuck.
My advice would be don't delay start making it today, you will never regret it .
Jo
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Dave,
It all depends on which lathe we are talking about. :naughty: Lets say a quick change toolpost. Most of my bolts I make on the Cowells, my filing rest fits the Prazimat. I am planning on making a filing rest for the cowells (It is not cost effective to pay the price that Cowells want for their filing rest :ShakeHead: and I have enough photos of the original to be able to make one which would be much more fun :mischief: ).
Jo
Hi Jo,
I have a AXA wedge type post post which allows for a great place to mount a filing rest with micrometer adjustment....would pictures of that be useful?.....let me know and I'll post them
Dave
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Dave - I'd love to see a picture of your filing rest. Almost feel inspired enough to build one :zap:
Jo - You make some good points about the dividing head. I'm thinking about various options and planning on doing something about dividing once I finish this build.
Steve
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Here's a picture to look at,,,,,if it seems worth while I'll start a thread elsewhere
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/?action=view¤t=PC090005.jpg
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That looks very handy Dave. You've got me thinking about building a variation on it.
Steve
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Some more work, some more pics
Boring out the engine block
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0950.jpg)
Here's the block bolted onto the base
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0952.jpg)
Made some studs (just for you Jo :stir:)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0957.jpg)
and some custom washers to go on the six studs (sorry for blurry picture)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0956.jpg)
and here's the whole kit and caboodle all stuck together
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0958.jpg)
Steve
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Looking like rapid progress Steve! Nice looking T slotted slide by the way! Jo I'll defer comments on stud quality to you ;D
Dave
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Thanks Dave, my cross-slide started out as a casting which was very similar to yours.
Anyway more engine stuff. I lapped the cylinders a little bit, didn't go to town, just knocked the high spots down. Here's the lap ready to go in my drilling machine, which has a reasonably slow bottom speed
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0959.jpg)
Then onto turning the con-rods up. Here it is in the lathe: I like the old fashioned lantern toolpost for turning small stuff with tailstock support
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0963.jpg)
Then parting it off, these crazy old toolposts actually work :smokin2:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0964.jpg)
So then had to mill a square on the end. I did the top and sides with an endmill and then hit the bottom with a side and face cutter. Who needs indexing?
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0965.jpg)
Next drilled and reamed the end for the gudgeon pin. Drilled a small pilot first because I didn't want it to move in the vise
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0966.jpg)
Then finally whacked an 8BA thread on the end (which is a wee bit smaller than the #2 in the drawing). Here's the two rods finished and next to the drawing so you can get some idea what's going on
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0968.jpg)
That's it for now
Steve
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More stuff, this time the big ends for the conrods. I'm really enjoying this build, it's at a level where I can make rapid progress, but still throws out trials from left field. These bits were at that kind of sweet spot, where it wasn't frustrating but still challenging.
Here's some brass flat I had on hand.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0962.jpg)
It's the hard, no lead, I'll mess with you kind :stir:
More seriously, for this job who cares, it's small and easy to machine.
So I cut a piece off, which was too long in the long direction. A little milling and it's like this
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0970.jpg)
Then into the lathe and turning a spigot on the end. Here it is with the spigot partially turned, the thread tapped, and the rest of the conrod screwed in. I've faced off the end such that the thread locks up with the required rotational alignment.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0971.jpg)
I put the 8BA thread in using my custom made tapping chuck type thingy. It spins and slides freely on a 3/8" shank which fits in the MT2 shank in the tailstock.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0972.jpg)
Then got rid of the excess with a parting tool and faced her off to leave a reference surface
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0974.jpg)
At this point I still need to split it in half. Oh the drawing is wrong here, hence my doodling on the side, I'm going to make the gudgen pins a 1/16" higher in the pistons to compensate.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0973.jpg)
Next I drilled some holes, and tapped 8BA. I don't have a height gauge, I just use the digital vernier's height measuring face at the top end. I find that if I add two thou for the thickness of my scriber this gives excellent results. Hope you get what I mean. This works super well. That's how I do near all my marking out. The reason I don't have other stuff (a height gauge) is this works so well I can't be bothered. (Actualy I have a surface gauge that I don't use :ThumbsDown:). I drilled the first half to the major thread diameter which served to guide the tap.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0975.jpg)
Then tapped the threads. I got this pin chuck from Jaycar at a good price (info relevant to fellow Aussies only)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0976.jpg)
I had left an 1/8" to play with before sawing in half. Then I faced the half that went on the conrod down to size.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0979.jpg)
The other end had a flat reference face, so was an easy milling job.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0980.jpg)
Then drilled and reamed for the crank
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0981.jpg)
So here's the result. They're small but took a couple of evenings work all the same
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0982.jpg)
Even posting this was more involved than I anticipated, but they're done, and I'm happy ;D
That's all that counts of course :DrinkPint:
:cheers:
Steve
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Nice work, Steve! Following along with interest.
Simon.
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Steve, you are doing a great job on this engine. Won't be long now.
Ray
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It's looking great Steve.....I'm glad your enjoying the build...that would be the point wouldn't it heh? :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Thanks for your interest and kind words guys, much appreciated.
I'm glad your enjoying the build...that would be the point wouldn't it heh? :ThumbsUp:
Well it's hard to argue :Argue: with that Dave :Lol:
I did some more on my build. Made some pistons out of aluminium. I only had stuff that was too big so I made some swarf too. Here's boring the piston out
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0984.jpg)
Then reaming the hole for the gudgeon pin in the mill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0985.jpg)
Here's the thing assembled with pistons, it even turns around with them going up and down :cheers:
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0986.jpg)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0987.jpg)
Then I drilled through the head for the rotary valve where a brass sleeve will go. Set it up in the lathe for accuracy. I find that drills run truer when I use a bigger centre drill, the bigger the hole the bigger the centre drill. So I went to town with a 5/16" centre drill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0988.jpg)
Then drilled
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0989.jpg)
and reamed
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0990.jpg)
and I happened to have some 5/16" brass tube. I'm going drill and ream the tube out to 6mm as I have some 6mm bar that I can make the valve out of
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0991.jpg)
As it turned out my hole ended up very straight. I'll offer some thoughts on how to drill a hole that's straight in the lathe when it's not convinient to use a boring bar or a d-bit. 1) Centre drill out to a big diameter, 2) have a drill chuck that is accurate, 3) have the tailstock aligned properly, snoop droop can be troublesome.
I find I can get really good results having arranged these three things. Boring is still more accurate, and absolutely necessary for many operations, of course. But for long small diameter holes boring may not be the answer. End of sermon :old:.
Anyways that's it for now.
Steve
-
Another small step forward. This time the valve crank, which is just a small eccentric which attaches to the end of the crankshaft. The thingy that drives the valve gear back and forth.
So the first side in the lathe and boring out to fit on the 1/4" diameter crankshaft.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0992.jpg)
Then mounted the other way around and taking a whole lot of small 20 thou cuts to get the crank pin turned down
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0993.jpg)
I decided to make it a little different to the plans. I put an external thread rather than an internal one. In my case an 8BA which is significantly smaller than the 1/8" diameter crank pin such that I can have a washer butting up against a sholder
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0994.jpg)
I marred up the finish on the original spigot during the second operation. So I stuck it on a bit of shaft I'd turned up for the job. I'd also filed a flat on it to get the grub screw fully submerged. This mounting also allowed me to put a small chamfer on the large diameter adjacent to the crank pin. Here's a shot involving the, rarely seen in the wild, left hand turning tool
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0996.jpg)
I also drilled and reamed my brass tube to fit the 6mm rod I'm going to make the rotary valve out of. The rod turns freely and fits good, so all is well.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0995.jpg)
Here's the state of the current assembly. I've stuck the brass tube in with loctite and replaced the nuts which hold the head on with smaller ones. I made these by drilling and tapping 3mm nuts out to 4mm. The old ones were too big and didn't look right
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0998.jpg)
That's it for today
Steve
-
Hey Steve!
Anyway that gets what you want is the right way.
I'll keep that large center drill tip in my back pocket.... :NotWorthy:
Dave
-
Anyway that gets what you want is the right way.
I totally agree Dave, the only way for us home shop guys is whatever we can get to work ;)
Steve
-
Hi Steve, just caught up on reading your thread and getting some good tips for it. Great job so far and I will be following alone for the rest of it.
Don
-
Thanks Don, it's nice to have you aboard
I did a little more (not much)
I made the block that one of the valve linkage parts pivots on. I started with a bit of 1/2" square brass that I needed to cut down to 7/16" x 5/16". The brass was no match for a sharp endmill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_0999.jpg)
Then I made a little stud/pivot thing for the link to attach to. The plans had it screw into the brass block but I just drilled and reamed an 1/8" hole. I'll loctite it in later. Still need to screw it onto the base, but this is how it will look
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_1000-1.jpg)
Steve
-
Nice engine Steve and very well executed. :ThumbsUp:
-
Thanks Nick, nice to hear from you
Steve
-
Did some more. I screwed the block for the valve linkage down and then made one of the linkages. First a little turning
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1001.jpg)
Then made it square in the mill, drilled some holes and put a slot in the end.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1002.jpg)
Here's the first linkage in place on the engine
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1003.jpg)
Still quite a bit to go on these linkage parts
:cheers:
Steve
-
That's coming along great Steve! It's going to be running soon!
Dave
-
Terrific looking engine steve, I'm looking forward to seeing it running. What plans do you have for a final finish, paint, polish, other?
BC1
Jim
-
Coming along nicely, Steve.
Chuck
-
Hi Steve, you engine is really taking shape and looking good. Still following with interest.
Don
-
Dave, Jim, Chuck and Don
Thanks for checking in, much appreciated.
Dave - "It's going to be running soon!" Hopefully you are correct, but from where I'm standing It's hard to see past some of the remaining obstacles just yet. I'm sure you know how it is.
Jim - I'm thinking of painting some bits and polishing others. Probably paint the block, head, base and bearing blocks; then polish the rest.
:cheers:
Steve
-
Faith Steve......Faith!
It'll run!
Dave
-
Thanks Dave
With all the support available from people such as yourself around here how can I fail not to get there?
:NewBrain: Well there's still enough things left for a few curve balls :zap: so I won't tempt fate too much
Steve
-
Go slow and think about what your doing.....It'll run Steve
Dave
-
Go slow and think about what your doing.....It'll run Steve
Dave
Sound advise Dave, I'm aiming to follow it.
Some more progress on the linkage work to report.
Started out on the milling machine with a slice sawed off an old rusty bit of 1/4" x 2-1/2" flat.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1005-1.jpg)
Here's after a bit of time milling and drilling
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1006.jpg)
Then between centres in the lathe. The little bit turned on the end lets me put it in a collet
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1007.jpg)
More turning
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1008.jpg)
and milling a round bit on the end
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1009.jpg)
Then assembled
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1010.jpg)
A couple more linkages to go, but one of them is relatively simple.
Steve
-
For me, linkages are some of the most interesting bits.
I'm enjoying this.
-
Steve that is an interesting approach on that linkage. Is that a special collet you are using? I tried to zoom in on it but it is a little blurry. Still here following with interest. Really stating to take shape, should be a nice runner.
Don
-
Don
If you look at the third photo, he has a round spigot on the end of the part....he's got a hold of it in the photo you asked about.
Dave
-
Thanks Davei see it.
Don
-
Thanks Zee, Don and Dave
Zee - the linkages are a little tedious to make, but I'm with you on them being interesting. It's fun seeing how one bit pushes the next and such.
Don - thanks for the kind words. Re. the collet: indeed you and Dave have it sorted.
:cheers:
Steve
-
More work on the linkages. This is take two on this one, the first time I tried to do the turning first and milling second. It failed because the part was no longer strong enough to hold up to the milling.
So this time milling first. The biggest OD which will remain has been turned to size at the far end and a flat has been milled along the rest as a reference for holding in the mill vice.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1013.jpg)
Then jam a slitting saw in
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1014.jpg)
and drill a 1/16" hole at either end for the pivot pins
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1015.jpg)
Now mill some flats on the other end. Using the side and face cutter to pick up the bottom. Light cuts obviously
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1019.jpg)
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1016.jpg)
Then turned it to obtain this
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1017.jpg)
and then finished it off and dressed it all up with some filing. I made the final linkage, which was much simpler. Here's the whole thing assembled. I'm using a drill for the pivot pin at the top
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1020.jpg)
Even managed to get it all ticking over smoothly.
:cheers:
Steve
-
Looking real good. It can be a mean runner. Hold it down.
Ray
-
Steve it looks like you are almost there. Keep up the great work.
Don
-
Thanks Don and Ray
Sounds like I should consider bolting it onto a nice heavy base
Steve
-
Did a little more; not much as I was struggling a little having been a bit busy at work
I turned up a couple of exhaust flanges which bolt onto the head. Here is a shot of putting on the final chamfers before parting off. A bit of HSS ground up as a form tool for 45deg chamfers is a mighty useful bit of kit.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1022.jpg)
I also made a couple of collars which go onto the rotating valve rod. I still have to drill some holes in these bits and clean up the parted off side on the collars.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1024.jpg)
I'm thinking of making some 10BA nuts and studs to hold some of the remaining bits on. Might consider making a start on that tomorrow evening if I can get my act together.
:cheers:
Steve
-
Looking good Steve :ThumbsUp:
The linkages and little bolts and nuts are always the slow fiddly bits to make ;)
At least you're getting a bit of shop; my schedule have been hectic of late...
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Thanks Arnold
Hope you can find some more time for yourself soon.
Steve
-
Looking like a runner soon Steve...keep at it!
Dave
-
Hope so Dave. I'm gonna have to track down some compressed air!
Steve
-
I decided I needed some 10BA nuts for this and that I'd make them rather than going to the trouble of buying them from some specialist shop.
First shot is a bit of 7/16" hex drilled with some 5/32 round brass held in it by a grub screw. I have alot of these hex offcuts,
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1025.jpg)
then milled the hex, 3mm across flats, using the side of the endmill
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1026.jpg)
Next drilled, initial tapped, chamfered and parted off in the lathe. Finish tapped by hand. They're a little dirty. I didn't notice that until seeing the photo because they're so small
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1027.jpg)
Also made some threaded rod, both 8 and 10BA. I borrowed Jo's trick of cutting a bit and then moving it further out of the chuck
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1028.jpg)
Here's an 8BA grub screw that will be used to hold the collars on the rotary valve rod. The screw is sitting in the corner of my piercing saw which I used to put the slot in it
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1029.jpg)
I also drilled a couple of holes for the inlet into the cylinders. Had to put some brass rod in to help guide the drill. That's it clamped with the G-clamp. I'd previously placed the centre drilled holes in the correct position on the milling machine
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1030.jpg)
Here's a shot of the two holes. You can see how they're slightly offset, by 1/32" either side of the centre line
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1031.jpg)
Hopefully that wasn't too incoherent. I'll try to pull it back from the madness a little next time
Steve
-
Nice trick using the hex as a holder.
No way I could have done such a nice job hand sawing the slot.
-
Hi Steve, still following with interest and you are getting closer to a runner. Great job so far.
Don
-
Thanks Don and Carl
I thought I replied to you guys, but I must have forgot to push the post button :Doh:
Anyway, I managed to drill some holes and make some 10BA studs. Got another 8 small 10BA studs to go. I got one of the exhaust tubes attached, complete with my home made 10BA nuts
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/IMG_1032.jpg)
Steve
-
Looking good Steve .... :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
-
Thanks Jim
I milled the ports in the valve rod. The first time I went too far so I made a second one. The detail is too subtle to see what went wrong in the photos. Anyway it was basically a matter of milling, assembling, and looking down the inlet and exhaust holes until all was correct. Things look good, but seeing how it runs will be the acid test.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1034.jpg)
Here's the whole thing as it stands. The main piece to go is the inlet manifold. The end is in sight now
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1037.jpg)
Steve
-
Interesting valve gear on that Steve.....that will be wonderful to watch....bobing and weaving...
Dave
-
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Steve, you have done an outstanding job on this engine and such a great build posting. That is going to be a good runner, Right.
Won't be long now before it is Video time. I have got to get more popcorn for that.
Can almost see light at the end of the tunnel. Great job Steve.
Ray
-
OK Steve I am taking a break for commercial when I come back it will be running right. We like videos. Nice job.
Don
-
Hey Dave, Ray and Don. Thanks for all your support :)
Well I'm getting there but you'll need another break or two yet Don. I need to find a compressor to give her a test run. I'll find a way around that soon enough though. Then all going well a video.
I made a start on the inlet manifold. It's made out of two hat shaped pieces of brass with a T-piece between them. Here's the start of the first hat being parted off in the lathe
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1039.jpg)
I needed to drill 3 holes in each of the hats. Here's my lathe drilling spindle, it's made from a Chinese milling spindle for an 8mm lathe I got off Ebay and a 12V DC motor. When I place it on my topslide it's at centre height.
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1038.jpg)
Here's the indexing at the back of my lathe. All made from the indexing gear for my rotary table
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1040.jpg)
Here's drilling the holes
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1041.jpg)
Then drilled a hole through the side in the milling machine
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1043.jpg)
I made the T-piece out of some square brass. Here it is being drilled
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1042.jpg)
and here's the thing mock-up assembled
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1044.jpg)
I now need to attach it to the head with some 10BA studs and solder it together. I'm going to soft solder it with it in place on the head. On second thoughts the brass tube in the head is stuck in with loctite :(
Well, I'll come up with something :slap:
Getting there :DrinkPint:
:cheers:
Steve
-
:cheers:Almost there :pinkelephant:.
Really like that drill setup for your lathe. What size motor is that?
Ray
-
Looking great that Steve, getting more complex up the top end now! :ThumbsUp:
-
Thanks Ray and Nick
Ray - I think this was the motor - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YM2776
It's good enough for small drills. If you wanted to get more serious you could go the motor and controller off a Sherline lathe. They sell them separately.
Steve
-
Got a bit more done. Started by making a fixture to solder the manifold together. The pins go in the holes and hold the two pieces the correct distance apart for soldering
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_1046_zps9126ae8b.jpg)
Ready to solder
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_1047_zps4832513d.jpg)
Then clamped on and spotted a couple of the holes
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_1048_zps09a16e61.jpg)
Bolted the manifold on with the two outer studs, then spotted the other 4 holes
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/IMG_1049_zpsdf030c14.jpg)
Managed to drill and tap the four remaining holes. No broken taps and no more holes to tap :whoohoo:. I've got to make 4 more studs and some gaskets.
That's it for today
Steve
-
And now for the final bits. Made the last 4x10BA studs. Then the gaskets.
Made a couple of mini wad punches out of ordinary soft steel. Good enough for gaskets
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1051_zpsed90dd4a.jpg)
Then the gasket for the inlet manifold
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1054_zps23f1b167.jpg)
and the head gasket
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1055_zps9a1eb4fa.jpg)
Then to test her out. Only had my bicycle pump
(http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/rotary-valve/set-2/IMG_1056_zps5eabede2.jpg)
So I can confirm that she's a runner and a good one :DrinkPint: :pinkelephant:
But I need to get her on a compressor to make a movie. Hope to arrange that in the not too distant future with a bit of luck.
:cheers:
Steve
-
Yo Steve....turn my back for an instant...and your done!
Congrats man! Get your air sorted and get a video going! :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Want to talk to you about your spindle indexer...did you use the expanding arbor type mount?
I'm considereing that but wanted the through spindle.....but I'm still dithering.....must just make a decision!
Dave
-
Thanks Dave
Will get the promised video one way or another. We can discuss indexing in your Southbend thread
Steve
-
Looking forward to the video Steve.
Tested with a bicycle pump eh? I have to try that. Reminds me that some people have suggested using inner tubes or tires too.
-
Thanks Carl
Bicycle tubes, that's a good one. I'm going to have a look at the shops later. Yesterday would have been the day to go, but I was busy. Anyway - stay tuned
Steve
-
Gotta car? Gotta spare wheel? Then you gotta source of compressed air.
or
use a petrol drum (or similar), make an air connection out and a water connection in. Attach to water tap and turn on the water. As the water goes in the air comes out. Useful for small jobs and short duration.
Jim
-
Thanks Jim - they are some good suggestions. I particularly like the filling with water approach. However I've arranged to get access to a compressor through a friend later on in the week. I'm also going to buy a small compressor that I can use for a little spray painting brush.
In the meantime I'm tinkering, repairing and generally fixing up my Plunket-Jr. engine. It's been out of action since January, so now that I've finally started I'm getting quite enthused. I spent a few hours on it today and can see the way forward to get everything I want done from here.
Steve
-
Ok Steve commericals over lets get it running. A good source of air is to remove a spark plug for you automobile and make an adapter from an old spark plug and you have air. Just be careful of the gas vapors when you do. Great job buy the way all we need now is the Video.
Don
-
Good going Steve :ThumbsUp:
:) Looking forward to the video!
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Thanks Arnold and Don
Don, you'll have to bear with me for a little. Hopefully I'll be able to get a video on Thursday.
Steve
-
Finally got a video going. Here she is ticking over on what I think is less than 15 PSI
:cheers:
Steve
http://s815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/?action=view¤t=MVI_1073.mp4 (http://s815.photobucket.com/albums/zz72/wilstep56/?action=view¤t=MVI_1073.mp4)
-
Nice, it's a great runner!
Congrats! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Simon
-
Brilliant (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Respect/respect-001.gif)
Jo
-
Well done Steve! Thats a fine runner!
:NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
:DrinkPint:
Dave
-
Congratulations Steve.
Always exciting to see a new engine run.
-
All right Steve, great runner and great job. Awesome Bud!
Don
-
Nicely done. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
-
Well done Steve :ThumbsUp: - congratulations!
:cheers: , Arnold
-
Yeah, really nice that Steve, well done. :ThumbsUp:
Have to say though, is it just me or is photobucket cr@p for videos?!
-
Simon, Jo, Dave, Carl, Don, Jim, Arnold, Nick and everybody else who has posted in this thread
Big thanks for all your interest and support, much appreciated :cheers:
I'm now contemplating building a boiler for it in the future. But still have some finishing work to do on the engine.
Thanks all
Steve
P.S. Nick, I wouldn't put it past photobucket being crap :o :Lol: