Looking forward to this one! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Good idea!
Bucket Bob seems to be looking for a firing pin on the double barrel "elf launcher" drawing! :Lol:
One idea re the fixture plate - a couple of holes for attaching various counterweights opposite the cylinder for balance might be a good feature. I say various as the c-weight may need to be reduced as machining ops take weight off the cylinder. I have used a stack of several plates drilled together for this type of counterweight , with plates removed from the stack as work progresses. (prevents minor earthquakes in the shop from imbalance) :o
Hi Chris, good to see you and the elves attacking a new challenge.Yeah, this shape block will be interesting, especially the angled lugs on the ends, which they used for angled stays up to the frame.
I'm in for the ride! Let's go, Chris! :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
:ThumbsUp:Got your tickets? Okay, arms and legs outside the car at all times! Chugga chugga ....
Very cool Chris!
Signing up for the ride!
:popcorn:
John
:pinkelephant:Well pass the popcorn, I want to watch the elves work too! .... um, wait, err, THEY want to watch ME work, yeah, thats it! :Lol:
It begins.
And despite the recent parties...I have :popcorn:
A New Year and a new build thread from Chris. Yeeees! :whoohoo:
I like how you've set up your thread cutting attachment. I got one when I got my Sherline lathe, but haven't used it for the very reasons you mentioned.
Jim
Apologies if I missed it...
Where did that 3D printed reference part come from? What is it made of? Who made it?
BTW You should expect one of your roaming elves to come home soon. Not much going on here and he got bored. Besides which...I ran out of my cookies.
Pretty well thought out Dog love it..... :Love:Thanks Don, been plotting this one out for a while, very interesting shape!
:cheers:
Don
Chris---Every morning I come downstairs to my office and shop, and one of the first things I do is check on whatever you are building. You do great work. I will follow this build as I follow all of your stuff.--Thank you for the good work that you share with all of us.---Brian
Apologies if I missed it...
Where did that 3D printed reference part come from? What is it made of? Who made it?
BTW You should expect one of your roaming elves to come home soon. Not much going on here and he got bored. Besides which...I ran out of my cookies.
Looks like a great start Chris! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Thanks - and I remembered (at the last minute) to put in the holes for counterweights when turning on the lathe like you suggested. This afternoon got some more done, cut a slot on each side of the blank to slab off the bulk of the extra material above the mounting lug flanges - still left some extra material to be safe. Then chain drilled along the bottom of the slab
Hi Chris,Took me a few minutes to visualize that, but the brain finally woke up and saw it. Um, bad pun snuck in there, it could see it! I've done something similar on the mill, never thought about it for the bandsaw. Thanks!
Off to a racing start.....the elf’s must still be fueled up on Xmas goodies!
When you need to chop a bit of the side with the bandsaw a secondary vice held at an angle allows the work to be held so that you can get down as far as you need
Looking good!
Cheers Kerrin
Hi Chris, While the ElfSHA investigation is underway for the Elfric to pancake conversion incident :mischief: I was thinking about the angled lugs on the cylinders. :atcomputer: Do you plan to just mill material away, leave two "islands" standing, then sculpt / drill them from the solid, or were you going to make them separate and solder them into pockets? Just fine either way, the brain just got working after the turkey coma cleared over the holidays, and was working ahead a bit on "how would I tackle that one?" for the lugs. One thought - if you tried to mill them from solid and something went wrong some way, you could always use the pockets/separate block method as a plan B fix. Just food for thought. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Yeah, those ElfSHA investigators love the paperwork, fortunately the sheets are very small so a good sneeze and they are gone! :LittleDevil:
Could you just rough trim the remaining material for now and then once it has had the two bores done you can easily locate the block by the bores the other way up and do the final rounding off.Thanks for checking on the pictures!
looking good so far, yes pictures show OK
I have a whole drawer full of long 3/8" HSS endmills I got in a batch buy and will never use. I can mail you a couple.Wow - that would be great! I owe you a batch of cookies (if I can get them past the elves!) - will PM you the address. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Wow... you don't hang around. Prolific or what!?It was good to start on this one, been wanting to build a Stanley engine for quite a while now!
This looks great - looking forward to seeing it develop.
:popcorn:
Nice looking Romulan and Klingon throwing stars Chris! Could be useful as a disciplinary tool for shop elves, too, in case of excessive egg nog. :hellno: Uh, maybe not.Yeah, maybe not, they find anything hidden eventually, and are getting too good at picking locks. :o
:Lol:
You've done some hogging! Looks good. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Its getting a lot lighter, still a ways to go but getting there!
HI Chris,Thanks very much George! The 1144 cuts nice and smooth as long as the cutter is nice and sharp, it does seem to be hard on the cutters, dulling them a little more quickly over time than the 303 does. The fixtures to hold things are a lot of the fun for me, love puzzles!
I'm sorry I haven't commented yet but have definitely been following along. In following your other builds I have several times made comments about how impressed I am with the work yo do with the Sherline equipment. In a word, outstanding! Anymore 1144 is my go to material for mild steel. I'm truly impressed with how nice your long side cuts on the cylinders are knowing the rigidity it takes to accomplish that.
When I open up the forum each day I can't wait to see what new fixturing or machining you have done.
I have a friend with a Stanley conversion in an old Packard and I'm going to send him the link to the thread. Being a steam guy and his first car being a Morris he'll get a kick seeing that one.
Great work!
gbritnell
I am also very impressed with the work you do on those small machines. Great looking engine. The machining is beautiful. Can't wait to see it run.Nice engine Mike! Glad to have you along for the ride. I think that is the design where they angled the valve faces inside the steam chest to allow milling the ports?
Here is a link to a similar engine that I built from Live Steam Magazine scaled up 1.5. I was quite a challenge and I have a full size Bridgeport machine.
[youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orpe3QFdWLQ[/youtube1]
Keep it coming, very exciting build. I will be following along.
Mike
With all the progress that Chris makes, I'm beginning to wonder how he has time to make the cookies for his elves.Boy, I hope they don't see that post, had them baking on thier breaks! :LittleDevil:
The conspiracy part of me suspects he's buying them...or he has a few 'friends' making them for him. :LittleDevil:
I don't believe he has elves making them. That's too much like 'pay me by having me bake my own cookies (pay)'.
With all the progress that Chris makes, I'm beginning to wonder how he has time to make the cookies for his elves.
The conspiracy part of me suspects he's buying them...or he has a few 'friends' making them for him. :LittleDevil:
I don't believe he has elves making them. That's too much like 'pay me by having me bake my own cookies (pay)'.
Jim, you may well be right. Or not. You are ALWAYS welcome to invest though! :LittleDevil:With all the progress that Chris makes, I'm beginning to wonder how he has time to make the cookies for his elves.
The conspiracy part of me suspects he's buying them...or he has a few 'friends' making them for him. :LittleDevil:
I don't believe he has elves making them. That's too much like 'pay me by having me bake my own cookies (pay)'.
Here's my theory Zee: Chris certainly knows the ins and out of both software and hardware and is a great designer. Also, just today, he was over nosing around in the "Additive Machining" forum about using different materials for 3D printing. I think he's designed a 3D cookie printer! :thinking: I'm hoping I get to be a "beta tester". :cartwheel: Maybe even an early investor...............there should be a lot of "dough" to be made in this endeavor. :LickLips:
Jim
Nice idea using the 123 blocks to raise the RT.I was going through the bar stock, looking for something the right height, looked at the tilt-table (not rigid enough when part hanging out the far end), finally realized I had the 1-2-3 blocks, they were perfect. Had a handful of 10-32 bolts just the right length, or would need to use threaded rods and nuts.
Bill
Cylinders are looking great Chris! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Okay, that pun just won your shop elves a full set of late night yodeling lessons...! With the kazoo upgrade. :facepalm2:
Glad the stacked C-weights are working out. Saves on earthquake insurance when your turnings are balanced better! :Lol:
The lug sculpting looks good. When it was ticking on the bed of the lathe, did you calculate the amount to remove, or just eyeball it?
BAD PUN ALERT WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! BAD PUN ALERT WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! BAD PUN ALERT WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! BAD PUN ALERT WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT! WHOOOOT!
You could have used a lug orithm for the calculation.......... :facepalm: :Lol:
Watching that assembly spinning around on your Sherline lathe must of been quite a site! :) Coming along nicely, Chris. :popcorn:
:cheers: Jim
It’s truly enjoyable watching these cylinder “castings” emerge from a block of 9f metal.Thanks Craig, its fun to see it emerge from the block. I want to do some tests on scrap 1144 to see what finish the little airbrush sandblaster gives the outside, see if it gives a scale casting effect.
The elf yodeling with kazoo accompanying it all night was a little rough, but I deserved it! :Lol:Next time they will add the Alvin-and-the-chipmunks impersonations singing opera... :lolb:
Re Alvin - I consider myself warned! :Lol: MUCH better quality puns ahead. :atcomputer::LittleDevil:
I think you may have been a torture system designer in a previous incarnation......although you didn't mention Italian opera sung in Mandarin Chinese at 2x speed yet! :shrug:
Are there holes in the fixture to allow boring all the way through?Yes - the fixture has a recess in the center slightly larger than the bore of the cylinder so I can take the boring bar all the way through the part without bottoming out. Learned that one the hard way on a previous project!
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:That oughta confuse the swarf out of those who skipped a few posts! :lolb:
This post is approved by the coalition for better ear protection, Barry Manilow Proper Playback Speed special interest group.
Nice work Chris!I thought about that, but it would have had a tendency to shift and twist, it needs the arbor to hold it in alignment. Could have used a plain arbor with the bolts, the expanding one is quick to make and I didn't have bolts long enough, so it made the decision for me.
On the work holding the other way round.......what’s wrong with long bolts & maybe spacers between the lugs & the plate?
Edit
Hmmmmm for some reason, likely me, a couple of post were missing, ok the mandrel will do just fine
Cheers Kerrin
Sure looks nice. Cant wait to see it run.Niether can I - but I guess we both will, lots more parts still to go!
Chris builds an entire engine. I make a few bolts. Hope you make it to Cabin Fever. It was on my list to do this year but can't maker it.Wish I could get to CF this year, but I need to stick close to home for family stuff. Next fall you need to get up to the logging museum in Maine and drive the Lombards!
I'm enjoying your THREAD on this build Chris. :ROFL: Nice work. :ThumbsUp:Uh oh, CNR's influence is spreading! Used to be just Zee... sigh... Time to send out more opera-yodeling/kazoo-playing elves! :ROFL:
Jim
...Used to be just Zee... sigh... Time to send out more opera-yodeling/kazoo-playing elves! :ROFL:
I missed the business of the little sandblaster (airbrush). Can you point me to that?Hi Zee,...Used to be just Zee... sigh... Time to send out more opera-yodeling/kazoo-playing elves! :ROFL:
I wish they would leave. They just sit around expecting cookies...and the incidence of "where did I put that" has gone up.
I can't recall if you said...are you planning a chassis around that thing? And wheels? ;D
This is the little sandblaster, got it several years ago. Runs okay, it blasts a very small pattern, like a airbrush. I got it for removing paint and decals on train cars, works on metal too. Not removing much, but does knock off fine toolmarks. It works best with its hopper mostly full.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A031COU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since you got the little sandblaster several years ago, how much have you used it and how's the nozzle been holding up?It probably only has an hour or two of use on it, nozzle is fine so far. Have had to unscrew it a couple of times to clear an oversized piece of sand but looks okay still. I run it off my main compressor, it came with connection for airbrush one.
Sandblaster nozzles are usually considered to be a consumable item, the same as MIG and plasma cutter tips.
Don
Still following along :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I like the threading setup :praise2:That comment rings a bell... :Lol:
I have taken Note of the music comments but am not sure I like the Tone of the conversation :toilet_claw: :wine1:
I think I'd have done the external threads first for use as a gauge for the internal. You can measure the threads with wires if you want to be fairly accurate.First time I have done threads like this, its all a learning experience. How would the wire-measuring work?
Looking really great Chris. Threading with a lathe is one of those things I CAN do, but it makes me quiver all over. I put all of the appropriate change gears on my lathe and did cut a 3/4" coarse thread that would accept a 3/4" standard nut. Having actually threaded something, I put it up on my shelf of "Look what Brian can do stuff", removed all the change gears, and I've never threaded anything again. Something I didn't know when I bought my second lathe, was that if you buy a gear head lathe, you don't have to mess with change gears. I had looked at a gear-head lathe at the company that sells them and decided that it was too noisy. I am a master of finding things out after the fact, but in this case it didn't hurt me. All of the threading I have to do can be done with taps and dies.----BrianThis did work, but as you say not something I want to do every day. The way Sherline did the gear holders is not quite secure enough, found that after every pass I had to tap the one lever back into place to keep it from slipping too far out and skipping teeth, which throws everything off. But, unless they make a 26.25x0.9mm tap/die set for a few dollars (doubt they do at all), this was the way to go! Hand turning the spindle gets old quick...
Very intuitive Dog and some amazing machining......... :Love:Thanks Don, though as you will see in the next post, I did not need to make the little holder for the top caps... Not much time wasted fortunately...
:cheers:
Don
Two names for the same thing? :thinking:
Oh, there have been lots of names over the years! Some could even be mentioned here. :Jester:Two names for the same thing? :thinking:
Why not? I know of several names that you go by. :LittleDevil:
I think the naming convention is spools in hydraulic valves, piston valves for steam. Also pi$$ed-on valves for the leaky ones I have made before I learned the tricks about PTFE rings on piston valves, and radii at window corners in port openings on sleeves for piston valves. ::) :lolb:I like the leaky valve name!
:ThumbsUp:Hi John,
Looking good Chris!
Why did you use the metric (Not that there's anything wrong with
that... 8) ) threads on the cylinders & caps? Did the size just work out better?
John
Hi Chris, if you wanted to make the sleeve in cast iron, just get a small piece of Meehanite or other continuous cast iron bar. The sleeve will be a walk in the part with that stuff. My suggestion - turn it to be say .188" wall per side outside your finished ID, bore, cut the port windows, turn OD to finish size, lap would be my suggested order of ops. Just food for thought, there are are many materials and methods that will work fine.I'll get some and give it a try, thanks! I take it that it has a different grain structure and strength properties?
By the way, there is no secret handshake, and no dues fee payable, in the black finger club. Members worldwide too. :Lol:
People with itchy ears also get free membership in the black ear-'ole club too. :shrug:
:) :ROFL:By the way, there is no secret handshake, and no dues fee payable, in the black finger club. Members worldwide too. :Lol:
People with itchy ears also get free membership in the black ear-'ole club too. :shrug:
:lolb:
My metal supplier carries round bars of grey cast iron. Beautiful stuff to machine, no voids, no hard spots and no particular grain to it. As CNR says, it's dirty stuff, but a real pleasure to machine. I make all my i.c. cylinders from it.---BrianSo the grey cast iron is the continuous cast type CNR is talking about? That I see at a number of suppliers, sounds like it is worth a try for this valve sleeve. The only cast iron I had used before was from sand castings, sounds like quite a different beast.
There is a complex equation that covers this, but when taken down to a point where the average machinist can understand it says "The more complex the part being machined is, the tighter your butt cheeks are clenched with every further machining operation." :pinkelephant: :pinkelephant:True!
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn::cheers:
Beautiful work.I looked at the Durabar there, choked on the price though. The class-40 from speedy metals was 1/10th the cost, so I am starting with that and will see how it goes. Amazing how the prices vary place to place, and the shipping goes from reasonable to crazy too.
I just wanted to mention that OnLineMetals now carries Durabar
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/cast-iron-round-bar (https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/cast-iron-round-bar)
They never previously carried any cast iron so this is a good thing. I don't have a lot of experience with Class-40 but it seemed to cut & finish OK on my cylinder liner tester. I bought enough Class-40 to do my radial engine so that's settled, but for future projects I think I want to try Durabar. It was a double win because Speedy is net more expensive to me (in Canada) as their material prices can be a bit higher than OLM but the (UPS courier only option) transport costs are killer. If you live in this States all this is a moot point, but just pointing out to others who might be reading.
Great work, Chris!Thanks Kim, and I am very happy with how the sandblasting changes the look too. Not as rough as I was hopign for, but it takes away those shiny toolmarks very well (with some filing and sanding too), makes it look more like a gray painted finish. A couple times I reached over for the 3D printed plastic one, also gray, grabbed the metal one by mistake, and almost dropped it on my foot!
Love the beauty shots. You've cut that chunk of metal down a lot for sure! It's lost over 75% in weight!
Kim
>I looked at the Durabar there, choked on the price though. The class-40 from speedy metals was 1/10th the cost, so I am starting with that and will see how it goes.At online metals the 5/8" durabar was over $70 for a foot. Crazy. Especially since I only need about 3”. The class 40 was $7.
Yes, in 1.25" diameter I was looking at, Class-40 Rd Grey cast iron via Speedy is 18.95 USD/ft. Durabar via OLM is 46.11 USD/ft. The transport all-in cost brought the numbers closer but its still expensive stuff. Another thing I noticed Speedy has an excellent selection of rectangular Class-40 for similar $/weight cost metrics whereas Durabar $ is stratospheric, not even worth discussing. Maybe that's where you were getting the 1/10 factor. Sorry for the sidebar diversion.
Beautiful work.UPS (United Pirate Services) Charges brokerage fees on everything they bring north of the border, even on tariff free items. If a company can't ship to me by USPS I don't order from them.
I just wanted to mention that OnLineMetals now carries Durabar
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/cast-iron-round-bar
They never previously carried any cast iron so this is a good thing. I don't have a lot of experience with Class-40 but it seemed to cut & finish OK on my cylinder liner tester. I bought enough Class-40 to do my radial engine so that's settled, but for future projects I think I want to try Durabar. It was a double win because Speedy is net more expensive to me (in Canada) as their material prices can be a bit higher than OLM but the (UPS courier only option) transport costs are killer. If you live in this States all this is a moot point, but just pointing out to others who might be reading.
Chris, online metals only sells durabar in 72 inch lengths. So 70 bucks is not unrealistic. But shipping would be high especially if you only needed a couple of inches. The accountant (bean counter) in me. SorryAh, I missed that bit, that makes a lot more sense!
What could possibly go wrong with the side impellers? (he said, knowingly) :Lol:More fun than chasing someone with a Zamboni....!
Fixed neighbours' newer cheap snowblowers and blew snow with my ancient but working one all day Saturday here. About 10" (254 mm official Canadian units). Light in the morning, heavy as lead in the afternoon.
That snow plow could even go on the shay. You could make it interchangeable.It WOULD be a fun attachment....
Despite all the dire predictions, things here did not get too bad, only about 4" of crusty snow, did not bother to blow out the driveway, it will be melted in two days anyway, and the AWD car will go over it fine.
With Lake Erie to the west and Lake Ontario to the north, it only takes a slight change in wind or storm track direction to make a huge difference in the snow. Years ago the head of the local National Weather Service office transfered out to Kansas, he came back a year later because he was bored at how easy the forecasts were by comparison! The lake effect here can cause bands of rain or snow in narrow strips, the snowmobiling at the east end of the lake is legendary, some houses put doors on the upper storey. Couple miles away, bare ground.
Despite all the dire predictions, things here did not get too bad, only about 4" of crusty snow, did not bother to blow out the driveway, it will be melted in two days anyway, and the AWD car will go over it fine.
That's amazing. Watching the news tonight, it looked like you were getting hammered and would of needed that snow plow! :thinking:
Jim
Back working on the Stanley today - got a start on the first of the valve glands, turned out out of some 303 stainless.
:Lol:Back working on the Stanley today - got a start on the first of the valve glands, turned out out of some 303 stainless.
Slowing down? Surely not! ;D
I caught one of your elves in my shop today. He (or was it a she?) kept trying to hit the 'add to cart' button.
While safer than hitting the 'go to checkout button' I couldn't take the chance and kicked him/her out into the snow.
I'll hit those buttons in a week or so. ;D
:ThumbsUp: I just love looking at the stuff you make - totally top shelf.Thanks Stuart, much appreciated!
to have a stock for future projects.
to have a stock for future projects.
hee hee...it's those 'future projects' everyone is wondering about.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Send one of your elves over here with some of that popcorn, you re making me hungry! :Lol:
On some recent work I used some new-ish endmills on some chewy hot rolled Chinesium faux steel. The burrs were so big I called one of them "Raymond". :facepalm: Hope your burrs are smaller than that! :Lol: :ThumbsUp:Fortunately too small to name, just enough to interfere with sliding parts. I've had those big ones when the cutter is going dull. Gives enough of a burr to be the engineer on Star Trek.
to have a stock for future projects.
hee hee...it's those 'future projects' everyone is wondering about.
And its a long list! :)
On some recent work I used some new-ish endmills on some chewy hot rolled Chinesium faux steel. The burrs were so big I called one of them "Raymond". :facepalm: Hope your burrs are smaller than that! :Lol: :ThumbsUp:Fortunately too small to name, just enough to interfere with sliding parts. I've had those big ones when the cutter is going dull. Gives enough of a burr to be the engineer on Star Trek.
Hmmmm, Zee is a Tribble! :ROFL:to have a stock for future projects.
hee hee...it's those 'future projects' everyone is wondering about.
And its a long list! :)
At least it's a list of projects. I had a list of projects. It turned out to be a list of wild hairs.
Much harder to pluck than the ones on my forehead, ears, shoulders, etc.
Sometimes Bugs Bunny had it right, he just IGNORED the laws of physics ("Of course, I never studied Law")On some recent work I used some new-ish endmills on some chewy hot rolled Chinesium faux steel. The burrs were so big I called one of them "Raymond". :facepalm: Hope your burrs are smaller than that! :Lol: :ThumbsUp:Fortunately too small to name, just enough to interfere with sliding parts. I've had those big ones when the cutter is going dull. Gives enough of a burr to be the engineer on Star Trek.
"Ye canna change the laws of physics Captain." Aye Mr. Scott....... Newww thaaaaat's a burrrrrrrrr. :Lol:
Exquisite Work, i just love how this has unfolded with amazement. Did I say ...........I............Like........... :Love:
:drinking-41:
Don
Could this “casting” possibly get any busier? Great work Chris. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Well, yes, it will! Gland nuts on the rods, intake and exhaust manifolds on the sides...! The base on these is pretty unusual, a set of four rods with cross plates, and it gets a full Stephenson linkage too. LOTS of stuff to go on this engine.
I can sort of see the relunctance to add the chassis et.al. Who would want to hide that gem?
Wonderful work on that 'casting' Chris! All that experience carving really shines!Thank you Kim, had to put guards on it to make sure that Surus didn't bribe my elves to mail it to him!
Kim
Chris..............when you get to the "lap/polish the cylinder/valve bores" would you mind throwing in a little detail on how you do it? I'm going to need to do that on my P & W build when I get back to it and I'm still a little (ok a lot :facepalm2: ) vague on the process.Absolutely. Lots of ways to do it, I usually do a simple setup with a close fitting blank and diamond paste, will show pictures. Should be the next couple of days.
Thanks, Jim
Good to see some solid gold parts going onto this build Chris! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: The elves must have returned all their empties to the beer store! :Lol: :cheers:Yeah, but they stole mine! :Lol:
Nice work Chris. Can you 'expand' :lolb: on how the split lap is adjusted? From the picture it looks like the split is only on the one end like the style of laps with an end-tightening screw. But you have a threaded rod. Where is the taper?
I think I'm using the same diamond paste compound. Seems to work well & very reasonably priced on AliExpress/Ebay etc.
Re the lap itself. I know a lot has been written on this topic & I don't want to derail your build. You mention the relatively softer material will embed the abrasive. Brass (C360) has a hardness of about 78 RB. Common 6061 aluminum is about 60 RB. So from that standpoint, wouldn't it be a better 'embedder' (and less costly)? Bronze for that matter (C544) is 40 RB. For the longest while I thought maybe aluminum had other properties that made it less suitable, weaker maybe or higher thermal expansion...? Then I watched a YouTube video where Robin Renzetti used aluminum for laps on quite hard parts & it worked great. Have you ever tried aluminum or something other than brass yourself?
Thanks for the info on honing Chris..............very helpful. :ThumbsUp:All we got coming here is a heavy rain. No problem, am at the high end of the street. We have our next pool run Sunday, sea trials for a new submarine.
Todays plumbing project turned out great!
I hope the coming storm isn't too serious. Should make for some good shop time. :)
Jim
so the flats were facing up when the holder was in the vise. Used a center drill to make the holes around the rim for tightening the nuts. Drill, turn the holder one flat, repeat.
I am assuming they used a hinged spanner with a pin on one arm, it would be a pretty big open end wrench to get around the full size one. With all the piping, oil lines, all that in place, maybe its too tight a space to get at?so the flats were facing up when the holder was in the vise. Used a center drill to make the holes around the rim for tightening the nuts. Drill, turn the holder one flat, repeat.
How do you use the holes to tighten the nuts?
Since it's hex, why not use a wrench/spanner?
I saw a similar thing somewhere else and I got the impression it was because of space limitations (can't get hex tool in). Is that it?
Wow..............you've been busy today Chris! It's always fun to make parts like that. :)All it needs is to be trimmed on the back side - as they come there is a short un-threaded section of the spindle, it needs to be turned back to where the threads start so the Sherline spindle will grab it. They machine easy enough so no problem with that, think I just threaded it on with the plate backwards. After, took a light facing cut on the front side to make sure it was true to the spindle shoulder. I got a couple, since I know they will be drilled/tapped a lot for various parts and hold downs. Think I mentioned these on the Marion thread, they are made for wood turning lathes with the same spindle thread as the Sherline, but are a thicker steel, rather than the thin aluminum ones that Sherline sells, less flex and thicker to take threads. Amazon has them, as does Penn State Industries.
Gotta love our 5C collet holders! :ThumbsUp:
My "Crubey Approved" steel faceplate arrived today. Big improvement over the aluminum Sherline one. :whoohoo:
Jim
Hi Zee & Chris,Thanks for confirming what they were for!
The engine that Dads working on, to adjust the piston gland, a length of rod in the holes, think pin punch, wiggle into the hole & adjust, repeat until you are happy! The ones he took out the pin punch had been put into the holes at an angle & beaten to move the gland, resulting in odd shaped holes!
Nice work on the glands Chris! Did you consider holes in the valve glands as well?
Cheers Kerrin
Hi Chris,Just like I cursed the designers at Mazda for where they put the bolts on the thermostat!
Bet the elves will curse you at its first service, just like the guys would have done in real life!! :lolb:
Cheers Kerrin
Sounds like you've got a couple of sleeves up your sleeve.... keep us posted. Cyl assy looks great so far. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Wearing short sleeves, so not a lot up them at the moment! :Lol:
What went down at your RC sub meet? Or more importantly what came back up again? :Lol:
Hi Chris,I agree - but the plans I was given did not recess the nuts, so I did not either - trying to follow them as close as I can.
As a suggestion, & it sounds like teaching grandma to suck eggs, the nuts on your pistons may have been better to have been recessed in the pistons, it reduces the dead volume at the end of the stroke.
The forrest of shafts is looking good! Have you heard the elves sing the lumber jack song yet......
Cheers Kerrin
All went good at the pool, pics in the morning...Sounds like you've got a couple of sleeves up your sleeve.... keep us posted. Cyl assy looks great so far. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Wearing short sleeves, so not a lot up them at the moment! :Lol:
What went down at your RC sub meet? Or more importantly what came back up again? :Lol:
The pool run is tonight, will post pics after. Our standard answer to the usual first question of 'How deep will the RC subs go?' - - - you guessed it, "All the way to the bottom!"
Lock both sleeves and elves up, and remove all doubt! Probably lower the beer bill too! :Lol:Swabbing both should help a lot, will still likely get some squeeze-out, but that will be easy to scrape off. :ThumbsUp:
Sleeves look great. A high temp silicone sealant is a good option for sleeve to bore fits. On ones I have done, I swabbed both bore and sleeve with a very thin coat of sealant. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Hi Chris, I've never tried to get a sleeve out after the sealant cured. I expect they'd be anchored like the hubs of h :censored: l though. Heat and nasty chemicals in combination with a screw puller of some sort could probably be made to shift them, but......Thanks much! Always nervous when breaking new (for me) ground, good to get second opinions. :cheers: :cheers:
Thinking about failure modes though, I don't think it's very likely you would ever have to get them out. You have only two exit ports and one inlet hole in your sleeve design, so your sleeve is already more robust than many multi-port sleeves I have seen that have weak small sections between the windows. If the sleeve wears sometime in future, you could ream it next size bigger and make new piston valves. Since you are slip-fitting it with sealant and not pressing it in, you are keeping forces on the sleeve small, which reduces risk of breakage on assembly. All these things suggest to me that need for removal is not too likely. As a last resort you could bore them out if they were stuck beyond persuasion and you had to get them out.(or use a stick of dynamite )Sorry forget the elves read the posts..... :Lol:
Re shape of sleeve cylinder vs conical, with the intention of easier removal - if you were fitting it dry it may make a difference for removal. Since you plan to use sealant I think either way it will be stuck well in the bores once cured.
One thing that might be a good idea in order to be sure of correct sleeve rotation during assy, to align ports with passages would be to drill some orientation holes / scribe some marks on the visible sleeve end face that line up with the centres of the steam exit slot ports. The marks could be aligned by a straightedge across from each other and maybe a couple of marks or a centreline on the cylinder block. This would give a good chance of getting the sleeve lined up with the cylinder ports. That's enough :atcomputer: for now. :cheers:
Slow but sure, and measure once, cut till it fits. No, wait, thats not right... :Lol:
We had fun at the pool, and the new sub worked quite well for first time in the water (not counting the ballast sessions in the tub). I got the rudder tabs cut and recoated, rudder post and bearing in tonight. Just need to drill the tabs for the post, add a control arm, and add a servo to the WTC. No problem getting it ready for the next pool run.Slow but sure, and measure once, cut till it fits. No, wait, thats not right... :Lol:
There's lots of truth to that Chris. I do it a lot! :thinking:
Looks like a successful Sub run. :ThumbsUp:
Jim
Chris,Perfect, thanks again!! That will work great for the model too. Looks like the other frame members farther down were brazed as well.
The distance sleeves between the bulkhead and cylinder block are brazed to the main frame rods. In the attached photo (one I found on the internet) you can see some 1/4 inch holes in the sleeve to help introduce the spelter midway along the sleeve.
-Doug
Looks like the other frame members farther down were brazed as well.
Wow that's great info on the Stanley engine frame construction. Interesting! :cheers:On the Corliss, I did use the 'well, thats way too loose now, make another one' techniques!
Re your sleeves Chris - if you use the same techniques on the fitting of the piston valves and sleeves in the Stanley as you did on your Corliss valves you will have no trouble. Slow and steady lapping does it. Several sizes of lap and grit size may be needed , used progressively to tighter fit / higher polish , for a leak free fit.
Don't use my usual "I've bored that three times and it's still too loose" technique! :hellno: :Lol:
Great - that helps a lot! :cheers: :cheers:QuoteLooks like the other frame members farther down were brazed as well.
Correct. The sleeves and the cross head supports form the minimum divisible component of the upper and lower frame.
-Doug
and watch Zee build a mini bowling alley!
We had fun at the pool, and the new sub worked quite well for first time in the water (not counting the ballast sessions in the tub). I got the rudder tabs cut and recoated, rudder post and bearing in tonight. Just need to drill the tabs for the post, add a control arm, and add a servo to the WTC. No problem getting it ready for the next pool run.Slow but sure, and measure once, cut till it fits. No, wait, thats not right... :Lol:
There's lots of truth to that Chris. I do it a lot! :thinking:
Looks like a successful Sub run. :ThumbsUp:
Jim
Sorry to flabber your gast. Or gast your flabber? Not sure which way is which.... :ROFL:We had fun at the pool, and the new sub worked quite well for first time in the water (not counting the ballast sessions in the tub). I got the rudder tabs cut and recoated, rudder post and bearing in tonight. Just need to drill the tabs for the post, add a control arm, and add a servo to the WTC. No problem getting it ready for the next pool run.Slow but sure, and measure once, cut till it fits. No, wait, thats not right... :Lol:
There's lots of truth to that Chris. I do it a lot! :thinking:
Looks like a successful Sub run. :ThumbsUp:
Jim
I am absolutely flabbergasted :noidea: you are making fantastic progress on the Stanley AND working on a sub too? :facepalm:
Do you ever sleep sy night? have you cloned yourself?
How can you possibly get all this work done? :shrug:
And it's admirable :ThumbsUp: I am amazed
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Those are only in the one with the Fetzner valve... :noidea:
Did you forget the hypocycloid thrombolator coupling nuts though? :Lol:
Something that has been in the works for quite a while that finally has made it up to one of the more forward of the back burners :thinking: is an RC version of a modern type excavator. Been noodling around with ways to make the hydraulic cylinders with electric gearmotors rather than true hydraulics (which are available, quite pricy, and very messy if something lets go), and finally came up with a working version. I had seen them running at Cabin Fever, and a few years ago when I had my Lombard Hauler there one of the group running them, Mike, now a member here as well, took my hauler over to the dirt pile on the back of his RC truck/trailer (video and photos over on the Lombard thread).Since then, having caught the bug, been wanting to make something like them. Now that I have a working prototype of the cylinder, that build will go in parallel with the Stanley build. Rather than post duplicate threads, or clog up this thread too much, I will be posting that build over on the RC Truck and Construction forum, with major milestones mentioned here from time to time. Here is a link to the thread over there. They have lots of great stuff there, well worth the look around.
https://rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=13632
Having just finished up the rudder mods to my Hydra Sub, as mentioned the other day, back to the Stanley build!
:cheers: Chris
Hi Chris , is that you surface plate ??? :Lol: :lolb: :mischief: looking good and will you be running at scale pressure of 600 psi ?? :)Surface plate? You mean in the last picture? Thats the cover plate for over the steam passages, with the exhaust manifold bosses.
Willy
Hi Chris , is that you surface plate ??? :Lol: :lolb: :mischief: looking good and will you be running at scale pressure of 600 psi ?? :)Surface plate? You mean in the last picture? Thats the cover plate for over the steam passages, with the exhaust manifold bosses.
Willy
No way on running the pressures they did, I'll scale it back to 1:10th scale of 60psi!
Hi Chris , is that you surface plate ??? :Lol: :lolb: :mischief: looking good and will you be running at scale pressure of 600 psi ?? :)Surface plate? You mean in the last picture? Thats the cover plate for over the steam passages, with the exhaust manifold bosses.
Willy
No way on running the pressures they did, I'll scale it back to 1:10th scale of 60psi!
I think he's referring to the black material the parts are sitting on. :) Looks like a surface plate magnified about 10,000 times! :lolb: And really really small parts. ;)
Jim
Hi Chris, sorry that is my strange sense of humour !! it does get me into trouble occasionally :embarassed: :mischief:I'm just so used to having that mat there that I don't even notice it anymore!
Willy
Hi Chris, I don't have any data on what the joint looks like, from your CAD pic it just looked like a plain bolted joint. That's why I was concerned. If it's pinned and bolted I'm not too concerned at all, if just bolted I would be concerned about the joint hinge-ing at the bolt. Mid span, a big lump of metal at a bolted joint will have a lot of inertia as the rod swings at high-ish speed. High forces there as a result.Hope this helps:
I guess my IC engine experience with cars trucks and bikes is making my spidey sense tingle. Rods in those engines need to be light in the middle but very stiff, and have as few stress risers as possible. Otherwise the rod snaps and takes the express route out the side of the crankcase! :facepalm: :facepalm2:
Likely the Stanley engines will run at much lower rpm than IC engines living at 5000 - 7000 rpm in racing, so it may not be as much of an issue, but I still prefer a light at mid-span but very strong con-rod in any engine. My opinion only, Just food for thought. :cheers:
it looks like the crossheads are kept captive in 2 planes by the guide rails.. plus they also look twice as long compared to other engines,, most likely to reduce "rocking" in the guides.. great build, always watching, learning many things!!!Thats something they did different, maybe for this reason. On other engines I have done, the radius on the crosshead was centered on the shaft. On this one, the radius is very small so the crosshead itself is locked in straight, not depending on the conrod.
it looks like the crossheads are kept captive in 2 planes by the guide rails.. plus they also look twice as long compared to other engines,, most likely to reduce "rocking" in the guides.
You know, those threaded sleeves look a lot like a small version of the sleeves of veterinary trochars as used to treat bloat in cattle. If genetics ever results in mini cattle you could make a fortune! :insane: (but don't sharpen the ends of your sleeves just yet!) :Lol:Can't you iust train them to burp? Already good at the other direction... :o
The bottom ends of the rods apparently were threaded for a fair distance, to hold the crankshaft bearing blocks, and I believe the mounts to the axle.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Speed and skill as usual! :cheers:Thanks! I had to hire in some more shop elves to keep the excavator model going at the same time... :embarassed:
Oh, the old two projects on the go at once trick, eh? (in my best Maxwell Smart / Don Adams voice) :Lol: :atcomputer:Actually more like three or four projects at once. Just finished modifying the new sub to add the rudder tabs, need to redo the ballast since that added a couple of ounces (and a 1/4 ounce can effect the trim) for the new servo plus the rudder post. Also have the 3D CAD drawings for the big Holly/Ward Station pumping engines in the works on the third row of burners...The elves have an open account at Elfensteiner's warehouse, and they made the locks for the rum locker so no point in hiding the key... :facepalm:
PS re additional elves - hope you notified the Elfensteiner brewery to double the elves' usual order of their stubbies. Better double-bolt the rum locker too........ :naughty:
Any particular reason you used a 4-jaw chuck? Or is that a centering 4-jaw?Yeah, I've found that it will grip much harder, important for threading on the steel. The scroll chuck sometimes will slip a little on steel round stock, leaving scrape marks on the round section above the threads. It takes a little longer to center the 4 jaw, but its worth the extra minute. I used the scroll chuck to turn to diameter, then swapped with the 4 jaw for threading.
Sounds like their elves are on the Elfensteiner stubbies as well! (the little b*%%$rs) :cussing:Should be able to get it from another local supplier if the first one can't fill it. In the meantime, starting to work on the diaphram plate...
Hope you get the right tap in a good timeframe. Lot of shipments from China are being delayed by the Corona virus outbreak. In a pinch you could make a tap by threading a piece of drill rod and cutting flutes in it, harden and grind the cutting edges, and it would probably do fine for tapping a few nuts.
(Years ago in Cancun I thought I might have a virus after drinking a dozen or more Corona's but the China one is a whole different ballgame)
Heard back from them, they are sending a replacement for the wrong tap. Asked them (twice) to check the box contents before shipping, we'll see....Sounds like their elves are on the Elfensteiner stubbies as well! (the little b*%%$rs) :cussing:Should be able to get it from another local supplier if the first one can't fill it. In the meantime, starting to work on the diaphram plate...
Hope you get the right tap in a good timeframe. Lot of shipments from China are being delayed by the Corona virus outbreak. In a pinch you could make a tap by threading a piece of drill rod and cutting flutes in it, harden and grind the cutting edges, and it would probably do fine for tapping a few nuts.
(Years ago in Cancun I thought I might have a virus after drinking a dozen or more Corona's but the China one is a whole different ballgame)
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:No wonder the shop elves were collecting the swarf into those little bags...! :Jester:
Always nice to see the solid gold bars being machined!
Looks like a lot of cranking to cut those threads (or a die?)Lots of turning the tailstock die holder with a tommy bar. Then turning it all the way back off again... had to let the hands rest between each rod. Single point threading probably would have needed a follower support to keep the rod from flexing.
When you have a long thread to cut, I have started it on the lathe then chucked in a variable speed drill. Well lubricated it only takes a few seconds and it has a reverse. I also bought a sherline 4 jaw self centering chuck for just such projects. Not quite as accurate as a manual one but close enough (a couple of thousands) for things like that.Thats a good idea! Have to remember that one. :cheers:
How slow does the Sherline go? I usually just hold the body of the tailstock dieholder in my hand and run the lathe at slow speed, flick it into reverse to remove the die.The Sherline will go quite slow, but the torque drops off with the speed, its a small motor without a lot of reduction to the spindle.
[youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tHxk9vTWok[/youtube1]
That is an odd metric size thread or are you actually using #12 x 28UNF?
Not true quarter-scale of 7/32-72? :)Didn't see that one in the catalogs! The rods are 7/32", so I got that part! Wow, that would have been a LOT of turning that die holder for such a long thread! Might have thought of the variable speed drill idea that Rod mentioned by the third or fourth rod. Or not!
-Doug
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:All the holes fit the rods, so all that is left on the plate is to mill the outline and make the cavity on the bottom side, all of which I should be able to do on the rotary table tooling plate, holding the edges and through the holes. We'll see soon!
Assembly looks great Chris. On the solid gold cross plate, could you leave a "tail" of unfinished metal to grip in the vise if you need to? You could trim it and blend in the perimeter profile after you had everything fitted and were sure you didn't need it in the vise again. Just a thought. :shrug:
Off to my shop now to run a few of my own Fetzner valves through the cryo friablation coalescer. :zap: :insane:
Didn't see that one in the catalogs!- in reference to 7/32-72 thread. I figured the way to tackle this would be to get a set of #1-72 Geometric head dies and modify the notch on the back to change the nominal diameter from 0.073" to 0.218"; hoping the helix angle was close enough between the two that the relief clearance did not rub.
Have you realized yet the spacer tubes cannot screw into the diaphragm plate? ... Clearance fit through the plate with a thin nut on the cylinder side to clamp.Why can't they? Mine do, and it works. Still need to make the lock nuts...QuoteDidn't see that one in the catalogs!- in reference to 7/32-72 thread. I figured that way to tackle this would be to get a set of #1-72 Geometric head dies and modify the notch on the back to change the nominal diameter from 0.073" to 0.218"; hoping the helix angle was close enough between the two that the relief clearance did not rub.
-Doug
Chris,Reminds me of the old joke, I'll write slow cause I know you don't read fast... :Lol:
You're just gonna have to slow down, every time I look at your post I'm 2 pages behind, I just can't keep up, help me out here. Yeah I see how it is gonna be, keepin me up way past my bed time in an effort to keep up with your post's. zzzzz....great work you will have this thing running in no time.
Art
Yeeeeerp!On the plans I have, the large holes are not threaded, and the stuffing box that goes in them has thin nuts top and bottom to hold them in the holes. Why would those holes need threads to assemble? :headscratch:
The only holes through he diaphragm plate that are threaded are the large ports for the piston rod/cross head. And that construction is so that you can assemble it. Just remember to install all the required parts onto the piston rod before locking on the pistons!
I don't seem to have a photo of a 'naked' diaphragm plate; must not have thought it was interesting enough. This one (see photo) is a 1920 20hp. After 1915 the pumps were driven off the rear axle, so no slot in the diaphragm plate for the pump rod worked off the right-hand cross head.
Other two photos: Four Stanleys lined up in the driveway, getting a drink of water on the way back from the Lindvilla Orchards (PA) car show to their home in Auburn Heights, DE. Range is determined by the size of the water tank, not the fuel tank.
-Doug
That's quite the "project within a project" Chris. Well done. :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:Thanks Jim, I was getting nervous near the end that I'd mess up something and have to start over!
Jim
Were the shop elves swearing at you for drilling holes in their nice elliptical cake pan Chris ? :Lol:Nah, but now they want me to make them the rest of the BBQ cooker... They are out now trying to lasso a cow (actually its a squirrel, but to them thats big enough).
Looking great! :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Nice recovery from the helical grooved holes vs smooth holes assembly issue. Had a few of those myself. :embarassed:
Chris,Um... Errr... DONT give the elves those kinds of ideas!! :o
Four inch right-angle grinder and convert it into a gap bed lathe... ::)
-Doug
Chris,Thanks George, guess I am still a carver at heart, back to my first hobbies as a kid!
A man after my own heart watching all that metal sculpting being done. Great work!
gbritnell
Still with you Dog and loving it...... :Love:Glad to have you along!
:popcornsmall:
Don
Awesome work. Loved the last photo...it gives a good sense of scale.Hi Zee. There are details and a link to the site I got the plating setup over in my Marion Valve engine build thread. Pretty simple method, uses a vinegar solution so no nasty acids.
I'll have to find out more about your nickel plating process.
BTW In the last photo, what's that lever under the headstock to the left and behind the chuck?
Looking good and that is an incredibly clean hand holding the engine ?!!!! :popcorn: :popcorn:Had just washed off the oil. Or maybe its my stunt double...
Looking good and that is an incredibly clean hand holding the engine ?!!!! :popcorn: :popcorn:Had just washed off the oil. Or maybe its my stunt double...
:ThumbsUp:Thanks John!
It's looking great Chris!
John
Looks like a successful day Chris. :) I got the garden shed cleaned up! :(Start with the silver soldering, you'll use it a lot!
You're getting a lot of use out of that thread cutting attachment. I have one, but haven't used it yet. Got it on my bucket list along with silver soldering.
Jim
Today been working on the tie rods that go between the crossmembers. Made up the rods, threaded each end 4-40, then started on the nuts. These are castle nuts, from the photos it and plans it looks like these rods may have served to compress the rods towards each other a bit, to adjust the tension in the crosshead guides?
Fascinating how this design evolved over the years! I had seen how they have a ring on the front rods to hold the valve guide from moving on the tie rods, was surprised to see that there was nothing on the others. Sounds like they got around to that later, very interesting.QuoteToday been working on the tie rods that go between the crossmembers. Made up the rods, threaded each end 4-40, then started on the nuts. These are castle nuts, from the photos it and plans it looks like these rods may have served to compress the rods towards each other a bit, to adjust the tension in the crosshead guides?
The diaphragm plate and the bearing main bearing caps fixed the frame rod centers. The tie rods, as you noted, just stop the cross head guides from spreading apart. I don't know that they were intended to pinch the guides together as you needed some operating clearance. Normal practice was to shim between the cross head guide and the cross head supports to get the right distance, not torque up on the tie bolts.
It was not until 1922 and the model 740 that Stanley double nutted the tie bolts (a nut above and below the cross member) so that they stopped the cross head guides from spreading or converging. It helped stiffen up the frame rod assembly slightly. To offset this improvement they started stamping the engine serial number (in addition?) on a frame rod, adding a stress riser. Previously it was just found on the rear cross member, top face.
-Doug
What? Plenty of room! Why I must measure several inches across on the monitor... :)Sure, after you took away half the parts and zoomed in! :ROFL: Maybe I can just lean down closer to the table... :lolb:
-Doug
I'm seeing a 90degree jig with four rods, 4 turned and drilled parts and a crossmember all soldered together at one time,, or cris will just carve it out of a solid block..I thought about that first, but the crossmember where it is square is smaller than the four rods, so making that fit would be tough (doable, but tough). So will leave out the jig, and start with a larger square section and mill/file it after soldering.
are you going to turn the insert section of the guide fixtures long and then add a sleeve to the back side off the crossmember.. should all align nicelyThe guide tubes will be all one piece going through the crossmember. The crossmember will be trimmed down to size after soldering. Will need some hand filing on those joints. There will be no sleeve inside the tubes, the valve rods will be steel on the guides brass so that is fine.
Chris--When I have to set down and take a break from my project, I always set at my computer and look at your project. Very, very nice.---BrianLikewise, someday I will give an IC engine a try. Not yet, too many steamers left! :cheers:
One other question for the crankshaft area - there are a pair of nuts on each frame rod holding the crankshaft bearing blocks together. But, there is then a spring and another nut. What is that for? Is the 'nut' inside the spring, against the bearings, really a nut, or does that have a clearance hole? Guessing it is part of the mount to the frame?
Is the cylindrical unit above the axle a generator for lights?
Tried a new pickling solution, Zee's Stinking Hoppie. Think he'll notice the coppery flavor? Had one of the elves trot down there with the part to dunk it in his bottle... :Lol:
No worries there, the elf was in full HazMat gear since I told him the bottle contained gnome exhaust... I think he took some more along to refill the bottle with... :LittleDevil:Tried a new pickling solution, Zee's Stinking Hoppie. Think he'll notice the coppery flavor? Had one of the elves trot down there with the part to dunk it in his bottle... :Lol:
I can put up with a lot of things...but touching my Stinking Hoppie makings is not one of them. :cussing:
Also, your faith in your elves is misplaced. If one of them manages to grab a Stinking Hoppie, he/she may not want to go back. ;D
Hi Chris, do your little helpers have their own little pots of swarfega ?!!!I've learned not to ask...!
:Lol: :Lol:
Willy
The one on the left's got that look in his eye, like he's thinking "hey, let's dump this on the concrete floor and see if we can chip it!"
Wow Chris. You sure are moving along. Looks fantastic. :ThumbsUp:Uh oh, now you've done it. My elves just texted yours, with a report of elf bashing. Bad offense in thier union. That sound you hear in the middle of the night will be thier enforcement team sneaking in to your room to... well, shouldn't say, you'll find out! :oThe one on the left's got that look in his eye, like he's thinking "hey, let's dump this on the concrete floor and see if we can chip it!"
The one on the right seems to be saying "What the heck is that?!".
But your elves aren't the smartest ones around. ;D
Hi Chris, do your little helpers have their own little pots of swarfega ?!!!I've learned not to ask...!
:Lol: :Lol:
Willy
Perhaps you could make a beam engine and leave the Iron Maidens lying around ?!!! :lolb: I haven't had any trouble from them recently !!! :ThumbsUp:
What? Plenty of room! Why I must measure several inches across on the monitor... :)Hi Doug, I am laying out the stock for the valve tie rods and the piston crossheads, and was looking back at the pictures you posted. In this one, the crosshead guide looks completely different than any of the other plans or photos I have seen, with a squared slot in the guide rather than the usual arced surface. Is this just a partial view of the parts, or did they make the guiide this way at some point? In the plans and photos I have, the outer surface of the crosshead and the inner surface of the guide are arcs on a common circle.
(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9468.0;attach=109947;image)
-Doug
...the crosshead guide looks completely different than any of the other plans or photos I have seen, with a squared slot in the guide rather than the usual arced surface. Is this just a partial view of the parts, or did they make the guiide this way at some point?
The piston rod lower end was most likely one piece (or welded) to the crosshead, ...
you know this rate of progress is really making some of us look bad,, but I am learning and planning things from it all :cheers:No worries, you are back in that silly universe with only 24 hours in a day...! ;D
I think somewhere along the line I have slipped into one with only 18 Hour days!you know this rate of progress is really making some of us look bad,, but I am learning and planning things from it all :cheers:No worries, you are back in that silly universe with only 24 hours in a day...! ;D
Thanks Rich!
Zee, I thought you were building the rest of the car! :Lol:
Zee, I thought you were building the rest of the car! :Lol:
Zee must not of got the memo Chris. :shrug:
This is the sort of "opportunity" that I see 3D printing of a jig could be useful :)Quite possibly, if you could make one rigid enough to hold the bars during machining. And if I had a 3D printer, which I dont (yet at least!) .
Jo
Well, while waiting for Zee to build the rest of the Stanley car :stickpoke: maybe I'll build one of those Mann trucks! :Lol:
It was a dump truck. In the video you can see the bed being tilted.Yes - Mann made a couple of different versions with tilted dump beds, I've found their patents on those as well.
Hello Chris,And the rock crusher, and the conveyor, .... Gonna need more shelves!
Still following along on this build, boy that is a complicated design. :ThumbsUp:
If you build the Dump Truck, then you will also have to build that little Marion Dragline...... :LittleDevil:
Have a great day,
Thomas
Hello Chris,And the rock crusher, and the conveyor, .... Gonna need more shelves!
Still following along on this build, boy that is a complicated design. :ThumbsUp:
If you build the Dump Truck, then you will also have to build that little Marion Dragline...... :LittleDevil:
Have a great day,
Thomas
I walked into that one! :ROFL:Hello Chris,And the rock crusher, and the conveyor, .... Gonna need more shelves!
Still following along on this build, boy that is a complicated design. :ThumbsUp:
If you build the Dump Truck, then you will also have to build that little Marion Dragline...... :LittleDevil:
Have a great day,
Thomas
Hello again Chris,
OK not a problem, just send me all those items that are in your way and I will be most happy to store them for you :naughty: :mischief:
Have a great day,
Thomas
Good sequence of operations Chris. Even with your longer mill table it looks like it was pushing the limits for length.The tailstock on the mill is Sherline's mill tailstock. ::) How's that for circular logic?
What is the chuck in the tail stock on your mill set up? Looks interesting.
Jim
Good sequence of operations Chris. Even with your longer mill table it looks like it was pushing the limits for length.The tailstock on the mill is Sherline's mill tailstock. ::) How's that for circular logic?
What is the chuck in the tail stock on your mill set up? Looks interesting.
Jim
The part is here on their website:
https://www.sherline.com/product/3702-adjustable-right-angle-tailstock/
It is set up for matching the rotab when its on the vertical adapter, handy to keep long parts supported.
Oh! Sorry, that is a live center that I picked up a while back. It has a larger spinning cone than the normal one, so it will fit in a larger hole, and the body is a bit heavier duty too. I don't recall where I got it, someplace online. LMS has one like it, but not in the 0MT taper.Good sequence of operations Chris. Even with your longer mill table it looks like it was pushing the limits for length.The tailstock on the mill is Sherline's mill tailstock. ::) How's that for circular logic?
What is the chuck in the tail stock on your mill set up? Looks interesting.
Jim
The part is here on their website:
https://www.sherline.com/product/3702-adjustable-right-angle-tailstock/ (https://www.sherline.com/product/3702-adjustable-right-angle-tailstock/)
It is set up for matching the rotab when its on the vertical adapter, handy to keep long parts supported.
Yes, I've got that tailstock for my mill as well. In fact, I'm going to be using it in my setup for doing some milling on the Frame for my PMR #5 build. What I was curious about is the chuck you have IN the tail stock................looks interesting and I don't want to miss out on some neat new tool! :thinking:
Jim
Forget about the shelves, you are gonna need more elves, not only that but you'll need to find room for another fridge for their booze.Hello Chris,And the rock crusher, and the conveyor, .... Gonna need more shelves!
Still following along on this build, boy that is a complicated design. :ThumbsUp:
If you build the Dump Truck, then you will also have to build that little Marion Dragline...... :LittleDevil:
Have a great day,
Thomas
Sigh, expanding a business is such a pain in the swarf! :Lol:Forget about the shelves, you are gonna need more elves, not only that but you'll need to find room for another fridge for their booze.Hello Chris,And the rock crusher, and the conveyor, .... Gonna need more shelves!
Still following along on this build, boy that is a complicated design. :ThumbsUp:
If you build the Dump Truck, then you will also have to build that little Marion Dragline...... :LittleDevil:
Have a great day,
Thomas
I'd like to meet that shop goat's dentist - it must have HSS teeth to get through that bronze so nicely! :Lol: :cheers:He looks cute in his little shop apron and safety glasses though!
The elves were rearranging again...
Yeah, but I can't complain openly too much, they read this forum too! :Lol:The elves were rearranging again...
See what I mean? ;D
Pretty slick, Chris. :popcorn: :popcorn:Yes, at only 0.110" across, on a 3" arc, the side arc would be teensy, and it only slides when moving the control lever. Figured it was fine as a square.
So you just made the followers square? No arc? Guess if they are short enough, that won't matter.
Kim
CNC...............you don't need no stinkin CNC! :ThumbsUp: Well except for the "Count Number Cranks" type of CNC! :):cheers:
Well done.
Jim
Looks good Chris! You milled the fork out of that block! >ahem< :embarassed: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Careful! :o
I’ve been working so hard on my own project that I’ve been away from MEM for a few days. Today I’m getting ‘caught up’ and I half expected you to have this project done by now and halfway through the next project :embarassed: but alas, I only had six pages to read through to get ‘caught up’.Thanks Craig! It might be running by now if I wasn't working on the submarine and the excavator too... :embarassed:
I’m seeing some great work along with and a few tiny, biddy little parts. This is a great fascinating priject Chris, can’t wait to see the conclusion.
Still with you Dog and love the results so far. ........ :Love::wine1:
:drinking-41:
Don
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Things will keep turning! :Lol:
Looks like you found the missing links...... :Lol: Great progress Chris. Likely there will be some crankiness in the next step - with any luck! :cheers:
Outstanding Chris!!!!Thanks George! Very happy with how it is progressing.
Between you and George you two cut plenty of gears and good at it...... :Love:
:cheers:
Don
the more I watch the more I learn,, perfect timing for me right about now..So you are building a Stanley engine too? :)
looking through some of the old collection of steamboats and steam launches was an article were a stanley engine unit was mounted in a hull,, right-angle gearboxes on each shaft end coupled to the prop shafts for twin counter rotating props,,Cool! Never seen a twin-screw steam launch, must have been a quick one.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn::cheers:
Sometimes it's a good idea to ask about those things that do not make sense, and other times it makes sense to wait and see ..... This was one off those, where waiting payed off - I wondered about what looked a bit like bearing support in the previous post, had the bearings mounted in such a way as not to do anything usefull .... and now I see that they are the crankwebs :facepalm2: :embarassed:Ah, see what you mean, that other picture does look like a support. I've got the advantage of having the plans in front of me!
Still enjoying your great build :cheers: :popcorn:
Fireproof elves? Are you sure they are not really imps?That was the picture just before lighting the torch. Now he looks like Wile E Coyote after the dynamite he was holding went off...
Hi ChrisJust you, I still see them all. I am using Coppermine for this thread, maybe the server hiccupped but its there now.
Is it just me or have your photos disappeared??
Cheers
Rich
Well geeeez Chris! You knock all this work out and here I am trying to tap some 2-56 threads in the cast iron frame of my PMR #5 build. Although I must say it's not for the "faint of heart"! :insane:What size drill are you using? It does vary by the material. Go with a nbr 48 rather than the usual 50, plus oil. Also, the tap an old used one? They do go dull.
Jim
Well geeeez Chris! You knock all this work out and here I am trying to tap some 2-56 threads in the cast iron frame of my PMR #5 build. Although I must say it's not for the "faint of heart"! :insane:What size drill are you using? It does vary by the material. Go with a nbr 48 rather than the usual 50, plus oil. Also, the tap an old used one? They do go dull.
Jim
Sounds like a dull tap. It sneaks up on you, makes a huge difference. I would try a new one. With the volume I do, I buy taps several at a time, they are relatively cheap, worth it in lost time digging out a broken one.
One thing I would try is drill a nbr 50 hole in a offcut of 360 brass and try tapping it. It should breeze right in with good fine chips. If not, its dull. If its its , could be a hard spot in the iron.
...I'm up to a #47 and it's still making me nervous. The taper tap goes in fine until I get to the full size part of it and then it starts to bind up. I don't think the tap is dull, but might order a new one. I've also heard stories about cast iron getting really hard. Worse case (no breaking a tap would be worse case) I can thru drill and use bolts and nuts for these parts.
Gee whiz. It's hard enough keeping up with everyone when I'm out for a day.
I'm home now after a six day trip.
Lots of fantastic work.
How does that nickel plating hold up?
While waiting for the chassis that Zee is building me to arrive,...
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:" (sorry)" - Nah, I dont believe that part! :Lol:BAD PUN ALERT _ WHOOT WHOOT WHOOT! BAD PUN ALERT _ WHOOT WHOOT WHOOT! BAD PUN ALERT _ WHOOT WHOOT WHOOT ! BAD PUN ALERT _
WHOOT WHOOT WHOOT ! BAD PUN ALERT _ WHOOT WHOOT WHOOT!
The elf that helped with the arc milling, her name wasn't Jean, was it? :Lol: (sorry)
I think they call thaat breed of elf a 'Garden Gnome"! They are usually much nicer that the Shop Gnome variety, and are available for hire at all garden stores.While waiting for the chassis that Zee is building me to arrive,...
I would consider it but I've yet to find any dependable elves. I see you have similar issues. :Lol:
What I really need are garden elves. That might keep T off my back to help. But again, finding good help is impossible.
I would consider it but I've yet to find any dependable elves. I see you have similar issues. :Lol:
What I really need are garden elves. That might keep T off my back to help. But again, finding good help is impossible.
I think they call thaat breed of elf a 'Garden Gnome"! They are usually much nicer that the Shop Gnome variety, and are available for hire at all garden stores.
Jim, looks like they are acting out my idea of a good summer day. Make something in the morning, nap in the afternoon, and go out in the evening!
It looks like you will be waiting a long time for the chassis Chris, why not put the engine in a "Mann" steam wagon?? :shrug: :DrinkPint: :old: JohnSame as with the car, it would be huge! And need a big boiler too, twin double acting cylinders, 1" bore, 1.2" stroke, engine is 11" long.
It looks like you will be waiting a long time for the chassis Chris, why not put the engine in a "Mann" steam wagon?? :shrug: :DrinkPint: :old: JohnSame as with the car, it would be huge! And need a big boiler too, twin double acting cylinders, 1" bore, 1.2" stroke, engine is 11" long.
Well, steam it up and roll it on over!! :cheers:It looks like you will be waiting a long time for the chassis Chris, why not put the engine in a "Mann" steam wagon?? :shrug: :DrinkPint: :old: JohnSame as with the car, it would be huge! And need a big boiler too, twin double acting cylinders, 1" bore, 1.2" stroke, engine is 11" long.
My live steam locomotive boiler would supply it nicely ^-^
It looks like you will be waiting a long time for the chassis Chris, ...
:ThumbsUp: Great looking crank assembly Chris!Hi John! I put the tip in the vise, and heated the middle with a torch, and put the bends in with pliers. The arms are 3/32" thick tool steel, they are plenty rigid when cool but bend easy when hot. I didn't want to risk work hardening them with a cold bend, since they took a little back and forth adjusting to get the distance right and the ends parallel again.
How did you bend the eccentric arms? A little heat? Big hammer?
John
HiExcellent. I had not heard of that browser before.
I still couldn't see the photos so I have switched to another browser which has cured the problem.
I have been using Maxthon as my browser for years but it seems they are no longer being supported.
I have downloaded and installed the latest version of Edge and all is back to normal.
Cheers
Rich
Not a lot of room in there!
Gotta keep the elves out of there, they'd be diced!Quote from: cruebyNot a lot of room in there!
What? plenty of room! You must have used the wrong scale...
-Doug
Getting close! :popcorn:Down to con rods and a stand! :cartwheel:
Gotta keep the elves out of there, they'd be diced!
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Stanley-Henge - good one!
Liked the Moai / Stanley-Henge side by side photos! :Lol:
Is there an emoticon for "sitting on the edge of one's seat"?
Don't even try to picture me. :Lol:
hmmmm.....
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zB5snBV/Image4.jpg)
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Didn't make the connection at the time, but it sorta works!
That con rod end fab looks great! I think you may have been listening to an old Steely Dan album when you designed the Peg and slot joint. :Lol: :shrug:
It should be very strong when soldered!
Going to take a break before starting that,
Started on the chassis yet? :LittleDevil:Going to take a break before starting that,Tease! :cussing:
Started on the chassis yet? :LittleDevil:Going to take a break before starting that,Tease! :cussing:
That WAS the polite one! You forgot to include the bag of cookies with the plans - they dont work for free!Started on the chassis yet? :LittleDevil:Going to take a break before starting that,Tease! :cussing:
One of your henchmen (elf) came by and said you wanted the plans. I gave my only copy to him.
You should have them by now and can start.
He provided more than sufficient identification to prove he was yours.
:stickpoke:
I probably shouldn't have sent him on his way with a kick in the pants but he was so nasty. ;D
Next time, send the polite one.
That WAS the polite one! You forgot to include the bag of cookies with the plans - they dont work for free!Started on the chassis yet? :LittleDevil:Going to take a break before starting that,Tease! :cussing:
One of your henchmen (elf) came by and said you wanted the plans. I gave my only copy to him.
You should have them by now and can start.
He provided more than sufficient identification to prove he was yours.
:stickpoke:
I probably shouldn't have sent him on his way with a kick in the pants but he was so nasty. ;D
Next time, send the polite one.
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Good idea. I like the vertical stand for access all around.
Great runner Chris!
If it is going to be run for a long time it may be worthwhile to add some braces from the cylinders to the base - maybe a simulated section of car frame?
Reason is that I worry that fatigue cracks may develop in some or all the 4 tie rods due to the heavy cylinders "wobulating" free in the air high above the tie rod "columns". Alternating direction heavy loads on columns without extra support would have Mr Euler doing 120 rpm in his grave. :Lol: :shrug:
I think it would work good on a recumbent trike!Plenty of power in it - while testing it came around and bit me in the thumb, so its got attitude!
Gerald.
Great to this working, and will it go into vehicle ?? Lovely work as usual , always a pleasurable moment to see these engines operating. Love it !!!Thanks Willy, at one quarter scale, the vehicle would be too big for my tools!
willy
Great to this working, and will it go into vehicle ?? Lovely work as usual , always a pleasurable moment to see these engines operating. Love it !!!Thanks Willy, at one quarter scale, the vehicle would be too big for my tools!
willy
Gee, what a great idea! He's been looking for a project, and he's been interested in the Stanley.... :stickpoke: why didn't I think of that. This hour. :LittleDevil:Great to this working, and will it go into vehicle ?? Lovely work as usual , always a pleasurable moment to see these engines operating. Love it !!!Thanks Willy, at one quarter scale, the vehicle would be too big for my tools!
willy
Chris................Zee has a larger lathe and mill.....................I bet he would build the vehicle for your engine? :naughty: :LittleDevil:
Jim
Chris................Zee has a larger lathe and mill.....................I bet he would build the vehicle for your engine? :naughty: :LittleDevil:
At least the rear axle and wheel assembly. That will give it some inertia to substitute for a lack of flywheel. Especially if you cast the tires in lead.Got drawings or 3d model of those parts?
-Doug
Just back from 3 weeks in Asia and happy to arrive home to see a running engine. :ThumbsUp:Not an easy time for travel. Now in quarantine? Welcome home!
Got drawings or 3d model of those parts?
No quarantine and other than pollen allergy and jet lag I feel fine.Just back from 3 weeks in Asia and happy to arrive home to see a running engine. :ThumbsUp:Not an easy time for travel. Now in quarantine? Welcome home!
Amazing. Was it all made on your Sherline lathe and mill?Yes - all my models are done on them.
Chris, Great job again. Now you need to make the car to put it in :ROFL:Still waiting on Zee to make the car for me.... :stickpoke: Going to be a while I think! :Lol:
Dave
Beautiful work!Thank you Frank! Quite a fun project. :cheers: