Model Engine Maker
Supporting => Tooling & Machines => Topic started by: Jo on November 24, 2013, 12:19:36 PM
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Having bought myself a house lathe a few years ago:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_1397.jpg)
I have been looking to give her some company. My initial thoughts were to buy a matching Cowells Mill but one never came up and I do :Love: my BCA.
I have always fancied an Aceira F1 but they are as rare as hens teeth :shrug: But as luck would have it I happened to be in contact with my friend on the day that he had taken delivery of a very nice (but bright orange :o) Schaublin 102 mill. And he needed some space and mentioned he had a little Sixis 101 that he was looking to get rid of. Like his new mill some on had decide to paint her with what is called "security paintwork" :hellno: So these are the photos he sent me
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1844Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1850Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1855Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1849Large.jpg)
So it was not difficult to decide I needed it so I arranged to go and pick it up last friday.
Jo
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Oh this should be a good one!
Dave
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Now normally you see Sixis set up either as a horizontal, here with the horizontal table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/HorizontalSixis.jpg)
Or as a vertical, with the more expensive tilting table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/VerticalSixis.jpg)
This machine was originally used in the Jewelry trade so it does not have a table instead it had one of these:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/Jeweryhead.jpg)
Sadly this was sold seperatley leaving the machine table less but luckily one of the previous owners has acquried this off of fleabay:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1856Large.jpg)
It is too big for me to be able to machine but my friend was good enough to offer to get it machined for me :whoohoo:
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) It was difficult waiting for friday
Jo
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He Jo
Whats gonna come witht he machine? Any tools like dividing head, collets, vise, ....?
Florian
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Looks like a real jewel. I had to laugh at the "Red Devil" inscription.
--Tim
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Nice looking machine Jo! With a little TLC it should be a real beauty.
Bill
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That table casting looks nice and scruffy......should be nice and stable now.
I have the original build sheet for the F1.....the table was measured square to .001mm in both directions.....I think that's better than my surface plate :o......
Considering in 1972....when the original owner of my F1 bought it...it cost $17000...or about the price of 2 1/2 brand new cars at the time.....it had better be nice!
Dave
:lolb:.....I just ran that sale price through a inflation calculator....$93K in 2012!
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Ooooooooh! The horizontal orientation is excellent and could be very useful.
Can't wait to see it after it's been through the "Jo Treatment"
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Whats gonna come witht he machine? Any tools like dividing head, collets, vise, ....?
Florian
Sadly none because it was used to make jewelery :'(
---
So Friday a very heavy car came home with a sexy mill:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5224.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5225.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5226.jpg)
Saturday I was scraping the base :(:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5235.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5236.jpg)
Sunday I was still scraping the base :-\:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5237.jpg)
And then :whoohoo: it was finished so I had a little paint:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5238.jpg)
and then it sneaked into the house :naughty:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5239.jpg)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif)
Jo
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The scraping continued :wallbang:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5240.jpg)
Actually that bit didn't for long as I got side tracked :slap: On to this bit:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5242.jpg)
Which meant I could start putting the mill together.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5243.jpg)
Then I finished off the doors and hung them ;)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif)
Jo
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So...the plan is a fixed table, and then tool it "conventionally"..?
Keep an eye out for W12 collets....I see some now on Fleabay...though You only need a handful of sizes.
Not having the factory accessories is probably a good thing. Outfitting them with swiss tooling is expensive!
The 100mm manual rotary table for the F1 was on the bay recently and it went for $1900!
Dave
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In the mean time my friend has started milling the table for me :whoohoo:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1864Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1866Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1867Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1868Large.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1869Large.jpg)
He tells me it is a very good casting as the witness marks are nice and even :whoohoo:
Jo
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So...the plan is a fixed table, and then tool it "conventionally"..?
Keep an eye out for W12 collets....I see some now on Fleabay...though You only need a handful of sizes.
Not having the factory accessories is probably a good thing. Outfitting them with swiss tooling is expensive!
I brought a couple of collets from my friend :)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5244.jpg)
The tools at the bottom are jewellery facet flycutters. The black one is a Sixis 2 diamond milling cutter which should have gone with the facetting head. The two aluminium ones are home made tools for the same purpose. But I have not got the Diamond cutters :headscratch:
There are also two blank arbors and the last item is a 8mm cutter holder. What is missing is a horizontal arbor. Dave :help: I am missing the handle for the vertical traverse so I need some measurements. I also don't understand how you are supposed to swop over to the rapid traverser :noidea:
I have started work on the top of the mill but the paint is giving me problems and I had to resort to paint stripper :wallbang:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5245.jpg)
Most Sixis heads are geared. Giving a high and low ratio. This one as it was for use in the jeweller trade does not have the noisy addition:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5246.jpg)
What I have instead is an inverter drive :naughty:
Jo
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I have the gear head, and I find it very quiet!....not noisy at all.
I think I have the manual for the F1 in pdf format and it talks about disengaging the leadscrew nuts for lever operation, and how to set the vertical spring counterbalance for sensitive drilling.
Dave
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I am only repeating what my friend used to sell it to me :LittleDevil:.
Yes please to the F1 manual. :whoohoo:
Jo
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It was set up to diamond turn the facets in jewelry with a finished as cut surface that didn't need polishing I suspect.
You can do that with a VERY good spindle, and appropriately nice diamond tipped tool. With industrial versions of diamond turning lathes, you can achieve sub nanometer (.000000001 meter Ra) surface finish...you could probably do 100 times that with the Sixis ball bearing spindle, but it will still look like a mirror....which for the jewelry trade is fantastic. It would save MANY hours of delicate finish work by hand ....if it was even possible.
Dave
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I only remember having 2 of the three feed handles.....don't know which ones....I'll look
Dave
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Check your PM.
Dave
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Hey Jo
You may find this interesting:
http://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t1556-sixis-101
There you can find some information about your machine.
Florian
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Well....I do have a F1 manual...this is true
Compressed....it's 118MB.....and too big to email......I may try to host it somewhere...unless someone has a better idea....
Dave
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Here you can find also a f1 manual, already on the net:
http://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t1073-aciera-f1
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That might be way easier Jo.....
Thanks Florian!
Dave
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8) Thanks. I will have to wait until I am on a link with more than two mice running round the wheel providing the bandwidth :lolb:
If anyone is interested I have up loaded the two Sixis adverts to my photosuckit account:
http://s214.photobucket.com/user/jothoms/library/#/user/jothoms/library/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill?sort=3&page=1&_suid=138530844707806021920942294564
I will pull off images as the build continues ;)
Jo
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:wallbang: I must read the manual better, Sexy needs to sit out from the wall to get at the handle at the back and let the head move in and out.
I have found how the feed handles work: each of the lead screws has a clamp on the end with an allen screw that you just loosen half a turn allowing the lead screw to slide out as the handle is operated :whoohoo:
Jo
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Just mind the curtains!
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:embarassed:
I just spotted that one as I was closing them :cheers:
Jo
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Jo
I probably should have spoken up earlier, since you are almost finished with the paint removal, but did you consider using a heat gun to soften the paint? A square edged putty knife or scraper with a heat gun makes quick work of old paint and the cleanup is easier because there are no little chips flying around. I have not used it on machine tools but I have used it on other surfaces, both wood and metal. It takes a bit of trial and error to get the right combination of heat and scraping edge angle but once found the work goes very fast.
Jerry
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Excellent point there Jerry!.....I am sure that is a favorite ship board.
With small grimy and rusty parts that need to be cleaned and painted, I mix 2 gallons of "Simple Green" and 2 gallons of scalding hot water in a 5 gallon bucket, and put it in for an hour....A quick scrub with a brass bristle brush, and bare iron is the result.
Works great....and won't burn you (Chemical burn) either.
Dave
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Dave, as I said, there is a learning curve, but you learn very quickly that the nozzle on the heat gun gets VERY! hot, and that you don't wipe the putty knife off on your pants leg.
Jerry
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Dave, as I said, there is a learning curve, but you learn very quickly that the nozzle on the heat gun gets VERY! hot, and that you don't wipe the putty knife off on your pants leg.
Jerry
:lolb: :ROFL:
And NO....I won't ask!....
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If it just arrived on Friday, you have made a lot of progress already Jo!! A woman on a mission...looking great though :cartwheel:
Bill
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Looks good Jo, but I think you'll need to colour coordinate the curtains :DrinkPint:
Steve
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Hi Jo
Wow I somehow missed post #9; sexy is looking.... well rather sexy!
I want see her surrounded by swarf and oil streaks on the wall :naughty:.
Dave
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I want see her surrounded by swarf and oil streaks on the wall :naughty:.
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) If there is any streaking around sexy I am not going to publish photographs of it .
Jo
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Here you can find also a f1 manual, already on the net:
http://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t1073-aciera-f1
:wallbang:
My work has blocked access to that site so I am going to have to start enticing those mice at home to get a move on :(
Jo
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I probably should have spoken up earlier, since you are almost finished with the paint removal, but did you consider using a heat gun to soften the paint?
Jerry
Other than the little problem that I don't own a heat gun, it was important to keep as much of the original paint work intact as possible, it adds to the authenticity of the machine, I could imagine a heat gun would have also damaged the original paint. .
The home mixed metallic green paint is a much closer match to the original than it looks in the photos it is just not hammer finished. Modern hammer finishes seem to be much coarser than the older stuff, so I opted for the smooth and let the underlying hammer finish show through ;).
-----
Time to start planning the gadgets for Sexy :whoohoo:
Jo
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Hey Jo
The hammer finish look depends on how thick your layer of paint is and also if you dilute the paint. Diluted paint makes finer pattern, undiluted gives a coarser pattern. (and the more viscous the coarser the pattern. It therefore also depends on the temperature of the paint!)
Thats my experience with it.
You may watch out because some hammer finish paints need a special thinner (At least the one i know, the brand is "hammerite" )
Cheers Florian
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Thanks Florian :ThumbsUp: I will keep that trick in mind.
---
The top slide had been in the wars, it looked like someone had got an angle grinder :hellno: to it to remove the original paint before putting that horrible red on it
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5248.jpg)
They had even managed to deplug two of the original holes :facepalm: You can see one of the two clamps for the support bar has been dug out:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5247.jpg)
So that had to have some filler :-\. Whilst that was hardening I had a little scrape of the vertical support and then went back and filed/sanded the filler. So the next two parts:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5249.jpg)
Sexy unlike an Aceira has tapered gibs I had not come across them before but they are nice :Love: So a bit more together:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5250.jpg)
Then back out to start scraping the motor and its mount. Before I got too far I decided to take the cover off the motor and have a peak:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5251.jpg)
Someone has very generously labeled it up to go on a three phase converter. Shame I will not be using one :LittleDevil:. It is currently set up in star for running on 415v I need to wire it in delta, some nice Swiss chappie has put the diagram in the cover:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5252.jpg)
So that is not beyond the wit of woman to rewire. But this lot is a bit more of a challenge:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5254.jpg)
I have got to make up my own remote and program up the inverter drive for Sexy's motor. Whilst I thought about it I had a little bit more scraping I could do:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5253.jpg)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) Not yet finished but getting there
Jo
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Tapered gibs are by the way better (in my oppinion) as the gibs are supported on the full surface and not only at some spots.
You maybe try first what happens if you dillute your paint before you apply it on your machine (Just to be shure you get the right effect. Also making it too thin is not good as it will end up in paint drops flowing downwards.
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Darn Jo, I don't look in for a while and you have it in parts and stripped down. Can I hire you? Man you know how to get things done. Great job! :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Looking good Jo..i like the new color too!!
Bill
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Thanks Guys :ThumbsUp:
Man you know how to get things done. Great job! :ThumbsUp:
Don
When you get that burning passion nothing else matters: Tools and making model engines has always had this effect on me :embarassed: I am sure something else was meant to :noidea:
-----
I am still thinking about that inverter, wiring diagram attached. I am tempted to put the controls in the front panel of the base where the original controls were.
Then I can start looking forward to making some swarf :whoohoo:
Jo
PS Sorry about the size of the wiring diagram my current computer does not have the software to enable me to reduce the number of pixels
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So Sexy is comming along so next I need to think of a couple of goodies to go with it. And the first item that has got need to have written all over it is the tilting carrier:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/Tiltingcarrier.jpg)
So boys with Aciera F1's I need some measurements: I believe that the central shaft is 35mm diameter and tee slots are 8mm wide/15mm at the base, but:
1, What is the diameter of the centre of the Tee ring on the backing plate?
2, What is the distance from the back of the quadrant plate to the centre of the pivot hole.
3, what is the diameter of the graduated edge?
I feel a need for some castings to be made :whoohoo:
Jo
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let me get through the day girl.......then I'll have some time off...and I can get to lots of things I owe lots of people...... :ShakeHead:
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Yeah like that $20 you owe me Dave :lolb: :lolb: : :lolb: ( not really)
Sorry Jo, couldn't let one like that slip by. I do believe you do have some "biker spirit", it ain't even running yet and you are already wanting to add accessories ;) 8)
Whiskey
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Hi Jo
Before you start with casting your own tools, I would recommend to ask some tool dealers whether they have accecories for your machine.
At least here in switzerland, those things are not that rare and I guess one or another tool dealer has some of those things in stock (separarte from any machine!)
Also, there are from time to time some of them showing up on "ricardo" (which is kind of a copy of ebay but only available in switzerland)
I know there is a guy who is selling tools in Bern (capital of switzerland) and he usually has good prices for the tools (realistic ones in contrary to some dealers)
If you are interested, I could ask him for the email adress and I would also check out if he speaks english at all (I don't know it actually)
Florian
ps:
http://content.tutti.ch/images/64/6404132644.jpg
This vise for example is sold for 240 swiss francs including the table with the 35mm shaft (he writes it so 35 mm seems to be right); withought that table he wants 190 swiss francs.
That would make 161£ with or 128£ without the table.
Shipping would be something like 40£ I think.
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Jo
It might be worth having a word with David Samways.
http://www.anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/contact.html
Phil
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Jo
It might be worth having a word with David Samways.
http://www.anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/contact.html
Phil
I would...even if it's a painful experience......prices are libel to be high.
Dave
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Whilst those prices are eye watering I have to remember that a good precision 3" vise will be about £80...
Thanks Phil, I will try talking to David Samways later in the week.
If I have castings made it will work out around £50 for the set.
-------
Tonight: Did someone once say he saw scraping in my future :???: Paint scraping has finally come to an end:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5255.jpg)
So into the house and once again make the house smell of wet paint:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5256.jpg)
Then I realised there was one piece left so I had to finish it to make the job complete and do the switch panel:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5257.jpg)
As you can see I have lined up the switch gear for the inverter. Speed control, run, stop, jog, forward/reverse and an emergency stop. I need to decide where to put the switches and then it is a wiring job but programming the inverter :-\
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) And then Sexy can make swarf :whoohoo:
Jo
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Eric has just sent me through some more pictures of his progress on Sexy's table. So the table mounting face is complete:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1907Large.jpg)
With mounting holes
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1908Large.jpg)
And centre relief:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1909Large.jpg)
:whoohoo: :whoohoo: :whoohoo:
Jo
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Hi Jo,
I notice there is a flat belt drive for the spindle. Is this typical for these sorts of machines? I have a "Super Walmer" bench drill inherited from a watch repairer which also uses flat belts and I was curious. The belt is beginning to disintegrate and I will need a new one soon.
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The Aciera F1 has a flat belt also.
Dave
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One should be careful where this type of thing might end up :stir:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/2074301/Woman-with-objects-fetish-marries-Eiffel-Tower.html (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/2074301/Woman-with-objects-fetish-marries-Eiffel-Tower.html)
Just teasing
Steve
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:lolb:
:thinking: I have more luck with tools and castings. I think I will avoid the Wedding bells this time and just live in sin with them :mischief:
Jo
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The inverter has a jog function :headscratch: can anyone suggest why I might need that on such a small machine.
I am tempted to leave it out and only have the on/off, speed & forward/reverse capability.
Jo
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I would leave it out Jo, the spindle will not be at all controllable due to its small size and inertia, and you can probably spin the spindle with two fingers to exactly where you want it.
Dave
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:ThumbsUp: Thanks Dave, That gets rid of one of the switches ;D. This is my current thoughts for the switch layout. Can you see any problems with it?
I am wondering how easy it is to make up my own nose adapters.... I have a nice little 30mm boring head that I need an adapter for :naughty: I can't see why I would need to keep that weird Schaublin thread, an M8 internal draw bar thread would seem much more sensible.
Jo
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I can't see why I would need to keep that weird Schaublin thread
Maybe because you want to use W12 collets in the spindle?? ;)
However, you could work with different drawbars; I guess they are removable once the collet or shank is off?
Using sawtooth thread is an issue of optimizing the distribution of forces in the thread and of free movement (when tightening and loosening) because it does not "chock". (And also a little of not influencing the true running of shanks or collets as a sawtooth thread usually is not self centering.)
-
Nothing wrong with a separate draw bar for the boring head, the only issue is that you'll be swapping the head in and out you will need room for 2 drawbars to live.
I modified my 30mm head to have a 3/8" (10mm) straight shank and use it in a W12 collet.
These machines are not "hoggers"....and you will find if you push a W12 too hard it will pull the end mill out....so it works fine within the limits of the machine.
Dave
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If your lathe isn't set for metric threads, a simple transposition set /cluster will get you there.
If I recall, the pitch is 1mm on the W12. The W20 was 1.6667mm which was a bit of a puzzle to cut, but a 37/47 cluster and the QCGB set to 12 threads/inch gave me 1.6663mm...which worked fine.
Dave
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:ThumbsUp: Thanks Dave, That gets rid of one of the switches ;D. This is my current thoughts for the switch layout. Can you see any problems with it?
I am wondering how easy it is to make up my own nose adapters.... I have a nice little 30mm boring head that I need an adapter for :naughty: I can't see why I would need to keep that weird Schaublin thread, an M8 internal draw bar thread would seem much more sensible.
Jo
Looks reasonable to me. Nothing obviously wrong. I might make that E stop a non recessed one, but ....it's a Sixis....not your Harrison!
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Its a 11.75mm * 1.25 < 45 degree/5 degree. :o The Prazimat won't do that, but the Cowells, hobbymat or the Colchester will ;)
I have four :wallbang: drawbars for the Harrison two for each metric/imperial and for the with or without the extension above the 30 Int at the top :-\.
I will have to think if I also want to go over to internal draw bars or force myself into doing some thread cutting :o
-----
The Emergency stop switch is on the input to the inverter and is a floor mounted, as T Whiskey would say "stamp" switch.
Jo
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The saga of the W20 thread can be found here.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,649.msg6073.html#msg6073
Dave
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Holes drilled/milled in the front panel:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5260.jpg)
:thinking: I need to make a blanking plug for that last hole
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5261.jpg)
End of lunchtime back to work :cartwheel:
Jo
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Doing great work there Jo. :ThumbsUp: By the way where do you find time to do all this stuff? :shrug: Is sleep something you grudgingly submit to sometimes? :Lol:
Us mere mortals need it regularly. :old: :old:
Ron
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:lolb:
I don't have any other demands on my time. I always get a good 8 hours sleep every night :thinking: Sexy has made me loose some sleep.
I still hope one day to find a lovely, handsome, very tolerant and willing distraction but I learnt long ago that dumb blonds do miles better than female model engineers on that account :-[
Jo
-
The wiring of the motor was easy, as the motor came with all the necessary links:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5259.jpg)
As was the wiring of the inverter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5265.jpg)
And I got to practice some lacing on the back of the switch panel. ;)
Two hours I have been trying to get the inverter to program :rant: Two hours, two phone calls :wallbang: and it is still refusing to take the parameters :toilet_claw:
It could drive me to drink ::)
Jo
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Could it be the lack of the jog switch is making it play up?
-
No, me and the man have been in discussions... It is just its weird way of being programmed :killcomputer:... I have it running full speed now off the inverter panel, I just need to get it to run off the front panel of the mill :rant:
It is very quiet even on full speed :whoohoo:
Maybe I will go get that glass of port :naughty:
Jo
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I might have found it >:( I am measuring zero ohms across all three terminals of the pot when it is disconnected :-\ which means it is demanding zero speed :Doh:
Sexy does run :), just not yet from the controls :(
Jo
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Been reading up on "sexy", a quite accurate machine :cheers:. I think a nice name medallion would look good in the missing control panel hole. Electricals, especially programable ones can be such a :hammerbash:. I'm betting you get it sorted straight away.
Whiskey
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Hi Jo, been following your attempt to get sexy running. You seem to have it running from its panel which means it hasn't excepted the program for external controls. I can not see zero ohms across all legs of the pot. You meter is it analog or Digital? Analog meters can get burnt easy on the ohms scale and give you false readings. A good test is to wet your hands an set it on RX1 scale hold tight in your hands and if the meter reads it's scale is burnt. Most pots are 5k to 10k ohms. The pot should have a reference voltage across it to work, you will have 5 or 10 volts DC across the two outside terminals. From the negative terminal to center leg you will see it vary when you adjust it from zero to full scale. Without this reference the drive will not operate from external control.
Hope this helps.
Don
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Hi Don, I only have digital multimeters, I was relieved of my old AVO mk8 years ago >:(. This was a 10K 10 turn pot, there is zero ohms across any pair of the three terminals and yet no signs of anything wrong on the outside :headscratch:
I next plan to find a replacement pot, then check the connections on the inverter to see if I am getting the reference voltage.
Jo
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Jo
cast your eye round p77 pram write and p79 operation select
that pot is "K" for not working any 10 k pot would do for testing
when I put a Mit VFD on the Quorn ( no gasps please I used a 4 pole motor ( 1450 rpm) and fixed the out put freq to 100 hz to give me 2800 rpm and used the normal Quorn pulleys ) so no safety problems it was a real pain to set up I could only get it to jog at first P79 is the one to look at first if the ext controls do not work but with a duff pot that needs fixing first
Stuart
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Yep those were the two I finally nailed it down to. I had to also set Pr 80 to the bottom of its range, it book of words lies when it says it goes down to 0.1Kw on page 122, page 71 shows 0.2Kw is the lowest and this motor is 0.18Kw so I kept getting err. :(
I have ordered a new pot. Hopefully will get here on Saturday then I can have another fiddle.
-----
The next problem is the geometry of the machine: I had hoped to just bolt my spare Cowells indexing head on the vertical clamping face and try a bit of bolt head cutting but it won't work. The work has to be held a distance above the vertical mounting surface :wallbang: so I am now getting desperate for Sexy's horizontal table.
Jo
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Jo
I have looked at my manual ( different model to yours but they all use the same logic ) is P6 set to 0 auto tune off
as I said it took me hours to sort it out
the way I did it was to get it all set up and running from the VFD without ant ext controls wired in once that was Ok I then added the ext controls
Stuart
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I will have to check when I get home. Eric captured the basic set of parameters on the wiring diagram I posted on the other page. It shows PR 6 as "2" :headscratch:
Jo
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Jo
Yes I saw that but do check in your manual before you change anything
I know I do not need to say this but do write down as is before you change things
Stuart
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:headscratch: I have just found a different wiring diagram for the Mitsubishi inverter in the manual. This one shows the forward and reverse contactor switches going to a common SD terminal and using a reset rather than one of the multi speed selection terminals.
Stuart: which wiring diagram are yours wired to?
Jo
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It's looking very nice, beautifully massive for the size. The ergonomics, though, don't look great. It looks like you need to operate it from the side with left hand operating the X travel handle and the right hand for Y and Z. In which case are the power controls best placed at the front?
Just a thought
Rod
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Hey Jo,
Hope this helps.....The swivel table is not the same as yours...but the proportions of which I have put on YOUR picture
I've attached a link to the Aciera F1 Swivel Table.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/aciera/index.html
Dave
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Thanks Dave :ThumbsUp:,
Your writing is dangling off the corner of the jpeg.. Is that the centre of the slot = 4" ?
All the sizes from the original Sixis table are big handful metric dimensions so my assumptions are table top = 120mm dia. And the 8mm wide (15mm at base) Tee slot centre is at 100mm 85mm.
Edit: to correct dimensions following Dave's later comments
Jo
-
The OUTSIDE DIAMETER of the T Slot is approximately 4"....
The Diameter of the top graduated table is 4.731.
The Diameter of the bore is 1.3785" or 35 mm
-
It's looking very nice, beautifully massive for the size. The ergonomics, though, don't look great. It looks like you need to operate it from the side with left hand operating the X travel handle and the right hand for Y and Z. In which case are the power controls best placed at the front?
Rod
I think that with a machine intended to be accurate is designed to be operated by the right hand only ;). I have put the controls where they were originally. I have got the original Sixis 3 phase switch gear but I don't think they meet modern safety standards :hellno:
-----
Thanks for the clarification Dave. That would make the centre of the tee slot at 85mm :)
Jo
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It's near impossible on the Aciera Table to get in there and measure the T slots as the swivel portion covers it pretty extensively.....I'd need to completely disassemble it to get an accurate measurement...and considering your "rolling your own"....85mm seems a good number.... 8)
My table is split in 2 pieces...on purpose.....to clamp on the 35mm diameter accessories stubs....I have a pair of cam locks that lock the swivel table....and a taper pin that brings the table to horizontal. A nice feature...as its a small table and touchy to sweep square.
Dave
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:headscratch: I have just found a different wiring diagram for the Mitsubishi inverter in the manual. This one shows the forward and reverse contactor switches going to a common SD terminal and using a reset rather than one of the multi speed selection terminals.
Stuart: which wiring diagram are yours wired to?
Jo
Jo
that is essentially what I did , I did not fit the brake do da
what I did was to use a old NVR push button arrangement to switch the STF and STR with the SD as I did not need the speed control
but the first drawing that you provided is correct as far as I can tel if it does not work its a setting that need ferreting out , did this unit come from Newton Testler I thought there pendant came pre done with the correct instructions for programming the VFD ,
I will get the thinking cap on and go though the dvd for more info and let you know
Stuart
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The inverter did originally come from NT and had been running a different machine (its not new ;)).
The original NT diagram shows the common being one of the speed control inputs rather than the SD terminal, the SD would seem more logical :headscratch: Maybe if I hook the wiper terminal up to the high potential output I could have it demanding max speed (which would overcome that pot issue) and see if the switches started/stopped things. :noidea:
------------------
Any chance of a photo Dave :naughty:
So bringing the top surface square might be worth machining after I have put in my own pin with it mounted on the back bracket.
Jo
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That would be a good start Jo. My table inspection report says square to a micron....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/2013-11-28_11-21-05_176_zps1fd310c4.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/tooling/2013-11-28_11-21-05_176_zps1fd310c4.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/2013-11-28_11-20-47_952_zps925970c1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/tooling/2013-11-28_11-20-47_952_zps925970c1.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/2013-11-28_11-20-55_772_zps4e8d937f.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/tooling/2013-11-28_11-20-55_772_zps4e8d937f.jpg.html)
The pin is on the right hand side. The two SHCS above and below center on the side unlock the clamp bolts in the T slot.
Dave
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Jo
use p79 to set it up as int and leave the pot off should run from the front panel then set p79 to just use the ext switches and no pot
see how that goes
Stuart
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The panel is working up to a point... Except that it is only operating in "jog" mode i.e. I have to keep my finger on the start to make it work.
And that only works when the operation mode display is showing "OP.Nd". If the display shows "PU" or "JOG" then it is only operating off the front panel. :rant:
It must be a parameter :toilet_claw:
Jo
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Jo
There will probably be an option to re-set the inverter to factory defaults, it might be best to do that and start with a clean slate.
Phil
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I am getting somewhere... Parameter 180 to 183 sets the start self-hold selection. So the pulse switches are now starting her..... But only on a single speed :thinking: I think I need that Pot to go further :naughty:
So time to start designing/making some gadgets :whoohoo:
Jo
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Jo you have been doing great to get more speed you will need to adjust parameter 38. This set the frequency for your reference voltage input.
Regards Don
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:thinking: Actually I am beginning to think that actually she is doing the demanded speed and it is just a case that she is extremely smooth 8).
I have started putting together the drawings for the Mill accessories, so the basic horizontal table. This gives me the centre lines etc for the next set of bits.
Jo
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Jo, you will get spoiled fast to using a VFD. All running actions are smooth and you can change the acceleration and deceleration time to suit you needs. Before you know it you will be changing your mill and lathe to them. Good to see you have it under control, your are a very versed and agile women, and very rare.
Don
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Now normally you see Sixis set up either as a horizontal, here with the horizontal table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/HorizontalSixis.jpg)
Or as a vertical, with the more expensive tilting table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/VerticalSixis.jpg)
This machine was originally used in the Jewelry trade so it does not have a table instead it had one of these:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/Jeweryhead.jpg)
Sadly this was sold seperatley leaving the machine table less but luckily one of the previous owners has acquried this off of fleabay:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1856Large.jpg)
It is too big for me to be able to machine but my friend was good enough to offer to get it machined for me :whoohoo:
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) It was difficult waiting for friday
Jo
What do you mean that it is too big for you to machine? Surely another bigger machine could be found for you to machine it with?
Welcome to the F! Swiss club!
Mosey
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Thanks for those pictures Dave, I have pinched your dimensions :ThumbsUp:
The F1 bracket is a bit different than the Sixis one. This is my first thoughts for one copying the original catalogue design. The slots on the top match the ones on the main table and the four hole are to allow my new VHD to be mounted on the top ;D
I have provided a 3D diametric pdf so you can vizz it around and see all the sides. Sorry if you have it in Alibre you can swivel the bracket and the table as well ;).
Jo
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Jo, you seem to have omitted the lip on the backplate that locates on the top of the vertical table to hold the fitting square, without it you will have to clock it in each time you bolt it on.
J
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Thanks Jason :ThumbsUp:
I was aware of that and had been humming and haring over it. Scaling up that first photo impled that there was no lip but after your comment I have just dug out the other Sixis brochure and that shows a different view in which it does have a lip 8).
Jo.
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Hi Jo
I would make the center from a hardened cylinder pin. They are ground and have a very smooth surface which is an advantage in my opinion.
OR make it bigger. (like double the diameter it has now)
And it does not have to be that long actually, does it?
What I wonder: Are you going to build a versatile dividing head for sexy? Would be obvious wouldn't it ^-^
Florian
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The locating lip looks a bit wide....doesn't need to be very big...just enough
Very minor complaint though.
The big thing is getting the face and 35 mm bore square to each other.
Dave
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Plus one for adding the swivel pin after. Far easier to scrape in if it's a very good slip fit and perhaps a screw down the middle?
Scrape the back face flat to match the X axis on both perpendicular faces, and then the front face parallel, ....That way you won't need to make a master...just use the machine and a surface plate. That pin doesn't need to stick out very far to do what it needs to do either.
Actually, scraping wise...pretty easy if you do it that way.
Dave
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Thanks Jason :ThumbsUp:
I was aware of that and had been humming and haring over it. Scaling up that first photo impled that there was no lip but after your comment I have just dug out the other Sixis brochure and that shows a different view in which it does have a lip 8).
Jo.
Actually, I think the faceting fixture has it's own back plate that mounts on the machine...presumably to get the faceting fixture as low as possible to allow for those big "flycutters"....I suspect THAT backplate has a lip that fits into the T slot....as where you start faceting probably isn't important as over all repeatability.
You do have a really nice matched pair of parallels right?
Dave
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Hi Jo
I would make the center from a hardened cylinder pin. They are ground and have a very smooth surface which is an advantage in my opinion.
OR make it bigger. (like double the diameter it has now)
And it does not have to be that long actually, does it?
What I wonder: Are you going to build a versatile dividing head for sexy? Would be obvious wouldn't it ^-^
Florian
The pin can be shorter, but if there is space for a longer one :shrug:
I have a spare set of castings for a second Versatile Dividing Head it would seem logical to make the table up so that it will also fit this.
---
Yes I have a nice matched pair of parallels ;).
Jo
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The longer pin will make it harder to get a good fit between the faces.
Dave
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Jo there is a good sideways shot of the lip on Lathes.co.uk, infact its probably better than the manuls for all the extra bits
My thoughts for the 35mm bore would be to rough machine that on something bigger and then finish bore it and face the top while its actually mounted on the Sixis which will ensure its true to the mill axis.
(http://www.lathes.co.uk/sixis/img6.gif)
J
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Not a bad plan Jason if the mill has the stroke and the stones....that's a big diameter for a little mill.
Couldn't hurt to try though.
Dave
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The alternative would be to just do it on a lathe faceplate/knee set up....and be careful of the set up.
Dave
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Yeah, Dave is right. If you have a short pin, the plain face can be tilted slightly and you would still get the surfaces together without any problems (also if the fit between the pin and the ohter part is quite tight)
If you have a reltively long pin, you will have difficulties to get the faces together in case of a tight fit between the two parts.
For an example of how its done on many milling heads, have a look at this section view:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21771006/Drehzentrum.jpg)
By the way, if you want some inspiration, have a look at the Deckel FP1 milling machine on lathes.co.uk. This machine (though bigger) had a whole lot of accessory tools that you may find interesting to build for your machine though smaller of course ;)
Regards Florian
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As far as vises are concerned....stay away from the stock Aciera items.....IMHO....they're not really worth it
They don't have much in the way of grip, and seem a bit fragile. I have the F1 tilt swivel vise, and it seems to make me nervous...it just seems fragile and as a result doesn't really hold that well. The original vise is 2" wide and about 5/8" deep....small.
I think a standard toolmakers vise of good quality would be money better spent...as you know these original accessories are not cheap.
It would mount well on the rotary table you drew up....or make a 35 mm stub for it if you want more space under the spindle.
Dave
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I knew this would take a bit of thinking about :) I also realised that I need to add another tee slot on the table top to allow me to mount things on the centre line.
Working on the bolts for the tables ;)
---
Vice wise a very nice man :embarassed: sent me a set of castings for the hemmingway vice. As Phil realised a little while ago I do have a number of vices :naughty:
Jo
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YUP....Planning it is 2/3's the job. Take your time and lay it all in...time well spent!
These little mills are wonderful to use....but like all mills, the geometry needs to be good.
Dave
-
Jo
Another source of info on Aciera is here.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/deckel-maho-aciera-abene-mills/
Phil
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I think the "Tidy" vise would be wonderful for this size machine. :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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:o I have just seen the original Sixis price list 21,125 Swiss F for the standard machine. That is a lot of money today let alone whenever the original price list was for. Standard table 990F. Florian I might need you to translate it for me :embarassed:
Short term she can have these little items to get her going :naughty::
Jo
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That'll do Jo. :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Florian I might need you to translate it for me
Okay, first price list:
simple table 300 x 120 mm 990.--
inclinable table 300 x 120 mm 2'950.--
rotary table dia. 120 mm with worm gear 1'650.--
tilting mount for fixing the dividing head
or vise 1'350.--
vertical milling support 1'150.--
rotating vise with base plate to be mounted
in the tilting mount 1'675.--
rotating vise with base plat to be mounted
on the table 1'500.--
rotating- and tiltable vise with base plate to
be mounted in support Nr. 204 2'150.--
rotatig- and tiltable vise with base to be
mounted on the table 1'950.--
base plate with plug, version to be mounted
in tiltable support nr. 204 425.--
dividing head dia. 35, including dividing plate
with 60 teeth, collets w-12, with threaded
spindle nose and protection ring for nose. 1'850.--
mount for dividing head Nr. 223 390.--
counter support for dividing head 175.--
dividing plate blank 96.--
gear cutting per disc 43.--
milling per teeth 4.--
boring head w-12 complete with accessories,
boring range 2-100mm, with wooden case 955.--
And the second list:
centering microscope M1155V-025 with wooden
case including light BL-10 3,5V with W-12 mandrel 1'500.--
machine base welded from sheet metal,
1 electical pole changing switch 1 thermal switch 2'000.--
coolant device with pump and supply pipe 1'220.--
anglepoise with 2 fluorescent tubes 220 V,
assembled, complete 485.--
chuck dia. 7 mm with 2x3 jaws 710.--
You may consider that those prices are most likely swiss francs. And when these machines were made, 1£ was something like 2 or even 2,5 sFr. (!!!)
-
Thanks Florian :ThumbsUp:,
It makes the second hand prices a bit more reasonable. I can imagine that the F1's acessories were about the same :o price.
Jo
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See my previous post.....mine went as accessorized....for $17000 in the early 70's. In todays money about $93000.00....... :hellno:
Dave
-
It makes the second hand prices a bit more reasonable.
And to make them even more reasonable: usually these accecories were sold with the machine. But why would someone sell some of those parts?
(except some jerk tool dealer which wants to get as much money from one bit as possible - we have such in switzerland... :hammerbash: )
And finally - if people only know that it comes from switzerland they think it is worth a lot I guess. I even have seen prices for bits that are above the original prices just because that specific part was rare and though almost no-one needs it, some want it just for having it... :insane:
-
The little rotary table for the F1 went recently on Flea bay....for $1900!......... :killcomputer: :Mad: :rant:
It can't index, and it doesn't have a gear drive...it's only used to round over parts.......
Dave
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If that was accessorised it was a bargain :LittleDevil:
Yes tool dealer have a nasty habit of splitting machines. But it is understandable I have £600 of quality chucks with my Hobbymat that I am only asking £600 for everything including the machine. I am about to start splitting it. If I keep all but one of the chucks I will still get more than half of what I am asking for it.
------
Didn't get much done today, being in :Love: does slow things down. I wanted to make the Tee bolts for the table and some tee nuts :( I did make the Tee bolts and then used my blackening kit to make them look a bit more professional:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5268.jpg)
Then I got side tracked :facepalm2:, a bit of baking :facepalm: a bit of admiring Sexy and knocking up some gadgets for her:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5270.jpg)
So the little boring head is mounted, and three flycutters will fit. As you can see the middle sized on has been fitted with a left hand carbide tipped lathe tool :naughty: I also found this little chuck that might have to be fitted, :headscratch: some where I have got a spare 4mm chuck.
No I failed to make the Tee nuts :disappointed:.
Jo
-
Yes tool dealer have a nasty habit of splitting machines. But it is understandable ...
Mostly it is but that specific idiot I am talking about for example sells an aciera F1 basic machine withoutspindle, spindle holder and vertical spindle holder thought he has it from exactly that machine.
Thats what I can't understand. :facepalm2: Oh and he is asking prices like it was new! (Which it is not entirely though it is in good condition)
-
Has he got a website :naughty:
Anglo-Swiss here in the UK don't have anything :shrug: so I will be making the bits I want. I have a 4" hand powered rotary table somewhere, the VHD is a very accurate little dividing head when you use the micrometer attachment and I can make it to fit not only the tilting table but also the main bed. In the meantime I have those cheap and nasty :LittleDevil: Cowells indexing and dividing heads I can use.
Jo
-
Oh - you wouldn't want to pay those prices ^-^
I have seen a picture somewhere with a sherline rotary table on top of a Aciera F1. That might be an option...?
As I said, I know someone here in Switzerland who sells schaublin parts and other stuff. I could ask him if he has anything for your machine if you are interested...?
Florian
By the way, look what I have found this evening: http://www.ricardo.ch/kaufen/buero-und-gewerbe/metallgewerbe-und-schlossereien/zubehoer-und-teile/tisch-fuer-sixis-101-neu/v/an707420764/
-
:o
That is more than I paid for the machine, its collets and the table casting. I have a printed page from Fleabay last year that shows this casting sold for £150 ;)
Yes please ask if he has anything. :)
Jo
-
Whilst I was off gallivanting with some very nice fellas yesterday :embarassed: My pot arrived.
At first I was disappointed as it mounts in a smaller hole than the other pot :wallbang: and instead of having holes in the terminals to wrap your wires around it had three pins. Then I realised that they were at exactly the pitch I needed to plug into the terminal block on the inverter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5277.jpg)
And as I twiddle the pot the speed goes up and down :cartwheel:
Now I need to decide if the lowest speed is not too high, its about 150 rpm :thinking: I normally like a mill to go down lower than that for fly cutting.
Jo
-
Which of the pully positions were you getting the 150rpm in? may be OK to let it drop to 150 in the mid range and then shift the belt to get a slower speed but keep the motor spining which will aid cooling.
J
-
Jo
good to see it working as you want as its adjustable by a Pram setting it can be altered as you desire its not like making a new set of pulleys and getting them balanced ( which you would need for that class of mill )
Stuart
-
Jo,
Keep in mind this is a LITTLE mill.....flycutters are like 1" diameter....most of the time your using 3/8 and under...and usually way under
150 for the low speed is pretty good.
Dave
-
Thanks Guys,
Jason I was hopeing that the variable speed would mean that I did not have to fiddle with the pulleys any more :naughty:
Thinking about the size I am likely to be cutting if I need it I can drop it down to the larger pulley which would give me 75 rpm. But that tipped flycutter will prefer the higher speeds. My main concern is where the swarf might go :LittleDevil:.
Jo
-
Oh - you wouldn't want to pay those prices ^-^
I have seen a picture somewhere with a sherline rotary table on top of a Aciera F1. That might be an option...?
As I said, I know someone here in Switzerland who sells schaublin parts and other stuff. I could ask him if he has anything for your machine if you are interested...?
Florian
By the way, look what I have found this evening: http://www.ricardo.ch/kaufen/buero-und-gewerbe/metallgewerbe-und-schlossereien/zubehoer-und-teile/tisch-fuer-sixis-101-neu/v/an707420764/
Guilty, I mounted the Sherline on my F1, and it is quite nice, except it does have a lot of Z dimension for this little fellow. And Jo, I did buy metric Tee nuts and bolts from MSC here in US. Probably easier to get over there.
Mosey
-
...., except it does have a lot of Z dimension for this little fellow.
Interesting :thinking: I've had to turn and drop the head of the mill to be able to get within 20mm of the top of the rear bed mounting with that fly cutter. A small milling cutter, say 3mm diameter will be much shorter so anything I was machining is going to need to be mounted in/on something to get it high enough to machine.
Jo
-
:facepalm: A five miniute job and six hours later it is complete. First I managed to mill the 8mm wide tee nut to 6mm wide :slap: Then I decided to double up the numbers, then I felt the need for some clamps:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5279.jpg)
And I still have not made myself a set of Smfr's vice mounts :( and I wanted to do some work on my engines
:-\ It takes a long time setting up a new machine.
Jo
-
:-\ It takes a long time setting up a new machine.
Jo
:lolb:
Yes it does!
-
Oh no it doesn't
But if you buy an second hand machine it does :Lol:
-
Oh no it doesn't
But if you buy an second hand machine it does :Lol:
All too true Jason! All too true!
-
Oh no it doesn't
But if you buy an second hand machine it does :Lol:
I can vouch for that as well.
Phil
-
Good thing you're not re-scraping it!....Satisfying when you're done, but you question your sanity at many points along the way! :insane:
Dave
-
I don't think I could have afforded to buy this one new and some how I don't think I could name any far eastern machine that compares to (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) Sexy.
:cartwheel: A friend might have found an alternative to me needing to make that tilting table, some more jewelery making jigs ;D
Jo
-
Due to a nasty sag there was a fair bit of material had to come off the top of the table, so Eric was forced to get out a rather mean cutter to start Sexy's table.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1953Large.jpg)
The machining of the top plate was done with the table bolted down as if it was on Sexy.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1954Large.jpg)
Then the final cut was taken with a monster facing cutter :o
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1956Large.jpg)
Next is the Tee slots :pinkelephant: I can see swarf in Sexy's future :whoohoo:.
Jo
-----
Sorry I can't resize the photo's from my work computer :-[
-
Next up the sides were milled:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1960.jpg)
then the centers of the slots using an 8mm cutter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1964.jpg)
Give us three plain slots:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1967.jpg)
Then out with the tee slot cutter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1968.jpg)
Giving Sexy a table with slots:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_1972.jpg)
That is next going to be ground :whoohoo:
Jo
-
That is next going to be ground :whoohoo:
Scraping looks lot more interesting... :LittleDevil: ^-^
No - its looking really good and once it is ground I guess it will be as accurate as the original one. ;)
Regards Florian
-
Are the 'T' slots cut in one pass? I guess that is the benefit of larger and more rigid machines.
-
Florian, We will have to see how good the grinding is. ;)
Are the 'T' slots cut in one pass?
Yes but slowly.
---
Now I had been admiring Simon's vice mounts. So I decided to make a set. First up mill some 25mm by 12 by 16mm bits and then cut 10mm slots 6mm deep then go all the way through for the shank of the screw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5280.jpg)
Then drill a shallow hole in the side, make up some short pieces of dowel to fit:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5282.jpg)
Silver solder the pins in and then realise that silver solder won't blacken using the blackening kit :facepalm: So four mounts for the vise:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5284.jpg)
:whoohoo: Nearly there I can see Sexy's first time being not long now, I am sure he will enjoy it :LittleDevil:
Jo
-
Those look pretty close to mine :) I just used Loctite for the pins.
I did cut a small step on the underside so only the outer edge hits the table, which means that clamping exerts downward pressure on the pin.
Simon
-
That sure is some fast machining Jo, you just keep putting us to shame. Some great work is coming out of that shop, you go girl. :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Thanks Don,
I thought I was just about there and could get on with some engine stuff then :facepalm: I realised I only have one of the vices. I really would like Sexy to have a Tidy Vice as well so I might need to get my skates on :LittleDevil:
Jo
-
Jo does the table need to rest before grinding just incase the deep tee slots have released any stresses in the iron?
J
-
Hi Jo
If you are going for a new one - I would look for a version with grooves on the side, just like this one:
http://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=32548
That makes it lot easier to clamp it down to the table and you can also move it for as much as you want without removing the mounts.
Regards
Florian
-
:noidea: Jason How long would I have to rest it? It is all delaying the day Sexy can make swarf :'(
Florian my plan is to let Sexy have that 40mm wide toolmaker's vise then make a "Tidy Vise", SCO made one a couple of months back:
(http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/7403/dsc04069t.jpg)
I think it would be very nice on Sexy :naughty:
Jo
-
Would indeed look about the right size to fit Sexy. It will be peasy for you to knock together in an afternoon - only tricky bit was cutting the circular Tee slot ;D
Simon.
-
So Simon, Is the circular tee slot a little challenge for me for this evening :naughty:
Jo
-
Good practice for when you make the one for the tilting fixture.
Oh a couple or three weeks should do it :LittleDevil:
J
-
So Simon, Is the circular tee slot a little challenge for me for this evening :naughty:
Jo
Well I'm sure it will be a trivial operation for you - but was tricky for me! Involved making a special lathe tool to cut the groove and then mounting the tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse to cut the other side of the groove. It's all hidden so you can't measure or see what you are doing!
Probably it should be done on a rotary table in the mill with a woodruff cutter...
Simon.
-
Oh a couple or three weeks should do it :LittleDevil:
That would mean waiting for Xmas before I could make swarf :hellno: How am I going to last that long without :Love:
No best it gets ground while the free offer is there and I can have a little scrape later if needed ;).
Jo
-
Jo
If you are interested I have a set of castings ;D and drawings complete with bronze nut & screw etc to make a really nice 3" machine vice.
I have two complete ones myself and don't think I will be needing a third one anytime soon.
Let me know and I can send more details.
Phil
-
Thanks Phil
:embarassed: Rod (Tangler) was kind enough to send me a set of the Hemmingway Tidy Vice castings, which makes up 2 1/2" wide swivel vice .
You are tempting me a 3" fixed vice would be nice, and you know my passion for :slap: machine tools but somehow I see a 3/8" BCA collet being mentioned very soon :lolb:
Jo
-
She makes it look possible for humans! Nice work!
Mosey :praise2: :praise2:
-
She makes it look possible for humans!
:headscratch: I think the response is thank you :Lol:
The new 1K 2W pot has arrived and has been swapped over with the one on the front panel, so I now have front panel speed control. So it must be time to make some swarf. :naughty:
Jo
-
So the Tidy vice castings:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3198-1.jpg)
The sides of the base were well drafted so needed a quick square up. Not before I hit a hard spot and ruined a cutter :wallbang:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3345.jpg)
So now it can be mounted in a four jaw and the machining begun. The top had a nasty angle on it (you can see the errors written on it ;) ) so I started by squaring up the block:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3346.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3347.jpg)
Then turned it over to do the back:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3348.jpg)
Now that the back was fairly even I could return to the top and squaring up the wider mounting surface which I will need in a minute for clamping:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3349.jpg)
Before mounting on the face plate and machining the top of the table and centering on the raised area:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3350.jpg)
Facing and then offsetting the top slide and cutting the angle for the degrees to be engraved on.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3351.jpg)
Now it gets interesting so back I go. ;D
Jo
-
If it was all nice and centered in the four jaw, why move it to the face plate? Or were you just facing in the four jaw and not concerned with centre?
Whiskey
-
No exact way to set the underside truely at right angles to the lathe axis, packing off the 4 jaw face is near but bolting to a skimmed faceplate will be 100%
-
Thanks Jason, kinda what I thought. Just wanted to make sure. It just answered a 2" belt pulley question I've been pondering.
Whiskey
-
So the fun bit, cutting this tee slot:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3364.jpg)
To do it I made up three tools:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3356.jpg)
And then remembered that last time I was trepanning on the Colchester was when the Transwave blew up its motor :zap: Well I was luckier this time:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_3365.jpg)
But there was a bit of squealing :o Not something for late on in the evening, it gives you a reputation with the neighbours :-[.
With the Tee slot done it was back to the Mill and square everything up using a tipped tool:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5285.jpg)
The find the centre of the pivot hole:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5286.jpg)
and from it as the reference drill the four mounting holes to match Sexy's slots :naughty: and then use a slot drill followed by an end mill to machine the hole for mounting the Tee nuts through:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5289.jpg)
So one base:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5291.jpg)
Now for the next bit :naughty:
Jo
-
Bggr - I sweated blood and tears over that tee slot and you bash it out in half an hour flat!
-
May be I should come clean....... :mischief:
Next up was the fixed jaw, but I didn't get far, yet again the sides had too much draft on them, so first up square up the best edge using an engineer's level:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5292.jpg)
Then use the tipped tool to face that edge. It was hard as :o
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5296.jpg)
The other end was better:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5295.jpg)
And whilst I was at it I squared up the two sides to give me the third and fourth edges for mounting:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5297.jpg)
Then off to the lathe and identify where the thin part of the casting was and level it up on that to try to take things square. First cut a bit shallow, but you can see the casting is central to the jaws:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5302.jpg)
Then a second cut to face the bottom:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5303.jpg)
I still have to machine the central register but that won't be for a few days as I am off gallivanting again :naughty:.
Jo
--
P.S. :LittleDevil: I forgot to mention I machined the Tee slot back in the summer when Rod first sent me the Castings but a certain gentleman told me off and pointed out that I should be working on my S&P, some how I can feel that it won't be long and I will be being told off again :lolb:
-
:censored: you can go off some people :)
-
:LittleDevil: Simon, you will be pleased to know it took me a good couple of hours to cut the Tee slot and I snapped the right hand hook tool as I was getting overly enthusiastic and had to make a second which is in the photo.
The tools themselves were made out of broken 1/4" centre drills, started on the bench grinder and then shaped up using my Dremel that you can see in the corner of the photo. If I recall correctly doing this was what caused my Dremel to burn out, I have not had a good year when it comes to electrics on my machines :(
Jo
-
Jo
I thought you had a "Union" cutter grinder, whats with using the Dremel ?
Phil
-
I have true but it took a couple of seconds to
burn out use the Dremel to give me the back edge that I needed :).
I must start using the Union C/ G more, it was not until after I had made these tools that I finally got around to buying her all the collets needed to hold bits of round tool steel.
Jo
-
Did I just hear you mention collets ;D
-
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Sad/sad-023.gif)
Sexy's bed doesn't look like it is going to be ready to pick up tomorrow.
Jo
-
Tell that man to get his finger out of the Schaublin and finish the job ;)
J
-
:-[ I didn't get to go and collect the table :'(
So it was back into the workshop and carry on with the Tidy Vice. First up counterbore the centre of the table whilst it was still in the four jaw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5305.jpg)
Over o the mill and find the centre line, so that I could get the bolting screws in the correct place ;)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5307.jpg)
Then it was a case of clamping the fixed jaw to the milling machine bed and taking the surfaces to size. Then I discovered that the two bevel cutters were not suitable to do this job so I had to find some silver steel (drill rod) turn up the shape then mill the teeth:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5308.jpg)
Then remember to undercut the end before hand filing on the back rake and clearances:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5311.jpg)
Heated to red hot for 15min to let the metal particles start partying and then drop them in a bucket of cold water, lightly heat the shank and as the colour headed north quenched again. As you can see it did the job 8)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5312.jpg)
I also decided to round over the back of the jaw using one of my router bits:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5314.jpg)
Then back in the vice find the centre, offset drill
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5315.jpg)
and ream for the nut, then counterbore.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5316.jpg)
I was gong to finish it off tonight and cheat and put the outer curve on whilst it is sitting in the vise but I am tired so I couldn't get the DRO radi function to work right :-[
Jo
-
Someone has suggested a date for Sunday :embarassed: I wonder if I will be lucky.
Jo
-
Someone has suggested a date for Sunday :embarassed: I wonder if I will be lucky.
Jo
Don't worry about the date, when will the table be ready :LittleDevil:
-
Nice job on the dovetail cutter Jo.
Simon.
-
Thanks Simon, I hope Rod is also following along as he did give me the castings :whoohoo:
-----
The moving jaw casting was already undersized before I started :facepalm2: So I started by taking a light skim off the top of the table with a facing cutter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5317.jpg)
Then the sides, you can see all the pot holes in the casting where the paint is still in place.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5318.jpg)
As you can see the measurements were all coming down rapidly to meet the dimensions that could be got from the block:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5319.jpg)
The result was I needed to go and modify some of the measurements on the fixed jaw :( so that it all was the same dimensions :facepalm2: . The moving jaw was then turned over the bevel cut and then the centre found:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5322.jpg)
And the slot for the nut cut.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5323.jpg)
Then turned over the jaw cut the slot for inserting the nut, and counter bored for the cover plate and pilot drilled for the two mounting screws:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5324.jpg)
I also machined the end to take the jaw plate ;). So the bits are coming together.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5326.jpg)
And the dovetail is a nice snug fit on a 3.2mm drill :cartwheel:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5327.jpg)
Now for the easy :noidea: bits.
Jo
-
Looks like no date for tomorrow (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Sad/sad-012.gif)
Jo
-
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Happy/happy-100.gif)
I wonder..
Jo
-
Hi Jo,
I'm watching! Good to see that the castings are at least usable. What sort of screw are you going to use? Are we going to see you cut an Acme thread?
Rod
-
Vice is looking good Jo
Did sexy stand you up?? Sometimes it's better to go for the more ordinary looking milling machines :noidea:
Steve
-
(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/hand-gestures/awesome-smiley-emoticon.gif) (http://www.sherv.net/emoticons.html) Jo, you have made short work of that vise. I like......
(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/yes/double-thumbs-up-smiley-emoticon.gif) (http://www.sherv.net/emoticons.html)
Don
-
:embarassed: Thanks Don,
Rod: my initial plans are to stick with the 3/8" Whit thread. I can always make a square thread one at some point in the future the aim at the moment is to get up and running ASAP ;D.
Looks like I won't be making any progress today. I have been tempted out to hopefully collect something :cartwheel:
Jo
-
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5332.jpg)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif)
Jo
-
I'm sure that you will be very happy together :ThumbsUp:
-
to quote our Whiskey soaked friend... "Dang, aint she purty!"
Nice work. Those little fellers will grow on you.
Mosey :praise2:
-
Best get some paint on it before that rust eats it away :Lol:
Did you come back with anything else :)
-
Did you come back with anything else :)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-017.GIF)
Jo
-
That's a nice looking machine Jo. Enjoy it.
Vince
-
Did you come back with anything else :)
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-017.GIF)
Just a note, Jo, these smileys from external sites don't show up to users of Tapatalk on iPhones/iPads, so using them without explanatory text maybe keeping some readers in the dark :)
Simon
-
Jo
You might be interested in one of these, its for the F1 but might be adaptable to the Sixis.
http://www.j-m-w.co.uk/HJ%20Published%20ArticleNEW.pdf
Phil
-
Thanks Phil, I had seen that, my current plans are to fit a sensitive drill attachment to the headstock. I did pick up a very nice 3mm Albrecht chuck today for her on a 9.5mm shank 8)
-----
Having cleared a bunch of new castings off of the Dinning room table :slap: I treated the rust on Sexy's table and gave it an initial coat of silver hammerite as an undercoat:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5335.jpg)
I have also found myself needing to make another set of mounting bolts for the table as they are 6mm (the thickness of the original vertical table :Doh:) too short.
Jo
-
Jo,
I'm guessing you are aware of the Aciera, Sixis forum on Yahoo? right?
Lots of pics and technical info.
Part of the 11 step program for Swiss addictions
Mosey :Director:
-
No I wasn't I have just applied to join 8)
I wonder if anyone has the drawings for the other Sixis acessories :naughty:
Jo
-
So.....have you bolted it on yet?!! 8)
Dave
-
Jo
You might be interested in one of these, its for the F1 but might be adaptable to the Sixis.
http://www.j-m-w.co.uk/HJ%20Published%20ArticleNEW.pdf
Phil
Thanks for that Phil....I had seen that article some time ago, and I contacted John about getting a casting from him....he said though he enjoyed making it....he wouldn't want to do it again...and if he sold a casting, he would feel obliged to help with guidance on how to do it, and was more project than he wanted to take on....Now if a sweet talking British girl was to ask him...well....who knows!
8)
Dave
-
So.....have you bolted it on yet?!! 8)
Sorry Dave :disappointed: Yesterday was long and rather tiring, and whilst I sneaked out to the workshop to make the longer bolts I needed I decided better safe than sorry so was a good girl and did my house chores :(. Then give the table a top coat of Sexy green just before I went to bed :mischief:
I think I might be pushing my luck I did rather well yesterday sweet talking a lovely man who was persuaded to part company with another set of castings :whoohoo:
Tonight I might be lucky I hope to find sexy swarf in my bed, library.
Jo
-
I think I might be pushing my luck I did rather well yesterday sweet talking a lovely man who was persuaded to part company with another set of castings :whoohoo:
Another set? Surely you've got enough castings to see you out at this stage? Well I guess it's nice to have a variety to choose between when you want to start a new build
Steve
-
Another set? Surely you've got enough castings to see you out at this stage?
:hellno: It wasn't you I was married to was it. I have now seen how a true professional acquires/collects casting sets so I have something to aspire to :LittleDevil:
Lets be honest I have nearly finished four engines this year: Double Tandem Compound, R&B, Crosskill and the 1/6th Stothert and Pit. So with hummm, 20 casting sets, 3 bar stock engines, (3 large scale Locos, 3 G1), a 2" ploughing engine and a steam Lorry to finish. I should be ok up to :thinking: the old state retirement age of 60 so I still need some more for at least another 20 years and once I retire I can make swarf even faster :pinkelephant:
Jo
---
Edit: Just remembered another 3 casting sets ;)
-
:hellno: It wasn't you I was married to was it.
Well not unless I've got an early case of senility :Lol:
Only enough to see you up to 60, I'm disappointed. Ok, you need more castings :o
Steve
-
(http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif)
Sexy has proven himself and made swarf. Actually he is rather capable of doing very big cuts in steel for a little guy :o
Now I have to work on trying out some other techniques with him see if he performs just as well :mischief:.
Jo
-
Swarf is good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
Pictures or it didn't happen!
Simon
-
:embarassed:
We started off with a bit of steel and using a left hand lathe tool as a flycutter:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5341.jpg)
He showed his affection for me by covering me with the swarf :facepalm: So I am going to have to think about the angle of attack a bit more. Then I decided to try out cutting hexes in the Cowells indexing head.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5342.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5345.jpg)
It is not the same as using the GHT head so I am going to have to pull my finger out and make the spare set of castings up. In the meantime I have knocked up the pivot for the tidy vise:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5339.jpg)
It is has been Loctited in place and the top is a nice suction fit ;)
Now I am going to have to try vacuuming off some of this swarf so that it does not follow me around the house, what a lovely fella :Love:.
Jo
-
Here is a little challenge that I had missed, this is as far back as the cutter will go :(:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5346.jpg)
So that means that I will not be able to get to something immediately against the rear jaw. I have made one modification to the Tidy vice so far, the design says to mount the pivot in the bottom of the fixed jaw :ShakeHead: If you do that you cannot use the vice separately ;) So mine is in the base:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5347.jpg)
The only options I can see with the inability to get to the back jaw is either to mount it half off the table :hellno: or turn the vise through 90 degrees like this:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5348.jpg)
Which does not seem right :shrug:
Jo
-
Make a thick jaw face but you will loose capacity. Maybe start again with a new pattern :LittleDevil:
-
Put some hardened steel jaws in....
Dave
-
Or just buy (another) larger mill that the vice will fit on :pinkelephant:
-
I never have the vice base fitted on mine, it was used so rarely at any other angle than parallel.
So I just mount the vice straight onto the table and use tenons into the tee slots to make sure it goes back in the same place each time.
Ask yourself, would you really miss the base ?, if not make a fixed adapter plate to put the main vice just where you want it on the table.
Phil
-
What Phil said....or
mount the vise to a 35 mm stalk and put it on the swivel table....
-
Or drill new holes in the base so that it uses the table front and middle tee slots - this should push the fixed jaw far enough forward so that you can reach the jaw.
Simon.
-
I have intentionally left it with the standard base as I can also use it on other equipment.
An alternative is to give Sexy this little vise that has been used on the Prazimat mill for about 15 years:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5358.jpg)
It is only a 2” vise and has a tilting as well as turning ability . My original plan was that the Tidy was going to go on this mill. So this one could come back in return :thinking:.
-------
This evening I started by turning up a bit of 20mm rust into the vice spindle, holding on a centre:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5349.jpg)
Then on to the mill to machining the square on the end.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5350.jpg)
Then an old friend (who I failed to sell again) came to my rescue so that I did not have to get my change wheels out and she cut the thread for me:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5352.jpg)
Before I ran a die down to put on the crests and the valleys:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5354.jpg)
The spindle is over length :facepalm::
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5356.jpg)
Next up was the end plate, the only bit of recyclable I could find was this old failed locomotive coupling rod:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5357.jpg)
Which is now nice and shiny ready for tomorrow evening to become something much better.
Jo
-
It looks like you are really having fun with those Swiss desirables. It reminds me of those two female
Swiss students who came to Vanderbilt to study. After many hours of study :LittleDevil:, we decided, redneck or textbook, it wasn't the design, but, motion of the design that meant the most. Hey, as Dave says; " I'm just saying" :cheers:
Whiskey
-
Shame on you! Incorrigible! :hammerbash:
Mosey
-
it wasn't the design, but, motion of the design that meant the most.
:ShakeHead: Its the feel.
If you have never tried it then there is no point in speculating just how good it can be :embarassed:.
Jo
-
I went to college in the 60's, I think I tried it, whatever it was! :Jester:
Mosey
-
There was a 60's? :thinking:
-
I will have to ask my parents :lolb:.
----
I've tried that other vise on Sexy and it is so tall :hellno: So back to plan 1 and the Tidy vice.
And did someone mention snow? We have freezing fog and the workshop heating is struggling to bring it up to an acceptable temperature of an evening so Sexy is about to start having to earn his keep ;D.
Jo
-
Snow, yes when I was running my engine outside on Sunday this was the view in the other direction! I didn't run it for long ;)
-
Is the price for the Hobby mat including delivery to Switzerland? Then you could bring it here and go back with a section of bits for Sexy ;)
-
:Lol: Last time I flew to Switzerland the dear bit was not the flight it was the train journey ;) But if anyone says Switzerland is expensive they want to try Sweden :hellno:
The biggest problem is that the luggage allowance is not enough for the lathe let alone all the goodies that came with her
------
My end plate started of by being centred in the vise then drilled, reamed and the centre hole counterbored for the spindle.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5360.jpg)
Then it was turned over and the counterbored for the cap heads with a slot drill. Not forgetting to round the two corners over with my router bit ;). Next up was drilling and reaming the end of the moving jaw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5361.jpg)
The other end is just drilled and both ends tapped. Leaving the gib screws to finish the job:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5362.jpg)
A very lovely man donated these long 4BA to grub screws to my collection (just before I sweet talked him out of his :Love: casting set)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5363.jpg)
So the moving jaw is now finished, I am trying not to paint it just yet, it is too cold out there.
Jo
-
Looking good, Jo! Are you going to take any special measures to ensure that the fixed jaw is accurately perpendicular to the base, or just rely on the side-milled surface that you already have?
Simon
-
I was relying on the fact that the top of the fixed jaw was milled whilst it was clamped to the bed of the milling machine. So the top is parallel to the bottom and the two 60 degrees were cut at the same time ;).
The swivel base itself had the top surface machined on the faceplate which it is not possible to measure any run out on 8) The top jaw again had its bottom flat surfaces and the 60 degrees cut at the same time, so should all be the same.
---
You may have noticed that the spindle is now down to length. What you cannot see is that I have left a little nipple on the end which will be used shortly to find the centre of the nut for threading.
Jo
-
The Gib strip is a simple piece of 3.2mm think 9.53mm wide BMs that has had, whilst on the parent metal ;) two angles filed on it . But is is never that simple as I slightly changed the design and did not reduce the fixed jaw next to the clamping area as much as the drawing implied so I found the Gib strip hit :facepalm:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5368.jpg)
So it was necessary to file a little away from the front of the Gib strip to allow for the lack of taper and the curve at the end of the cut. I was pleased with the fit a bit of blue showed up a couple of high points on the cut which were scraped off. Then the gubscrews were tightened against the strip to make a couple of marks, the strip removed an centre drill marks added where the centre of the Gib screws would be (the marks only showed the outside edge not the centre). One nice and firm fitting Gib strip:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5369.jpg)
I feel the need to play with a nut next :mischief:
Jo
-
The nut started out as a bit of 25mm bronze that was milled to 19mm square using the dividing head:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5370.jpg)
The edges were filed round to get it to fit into the hole in the moving jaw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5372.jpg)
Once it fitted snugly it was possible to use the spindle with the nipple I left on the end to mark the position for the centre of the thread and then set the nut up in the four jaw chuck:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5373.jpg)
Where it was drilled and tapped for the 3/8" whit thread:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5374.jpg)
Then it was taken to length:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5376.jpg)
The nut is secured underneath using a washer and a counter sunk screw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5377.jpg)
To cover up the nut a thin plate was turned on the cowells:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5378.jpg)
Two screws inserted and the plate fitted:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5380.jpg)
:thinking: not much to go on this vise and then I am back on engines :whoohoo:
Jo
-
I think an outstanding job with a very deserving nut :'(.
Whiskey
-
Nice piece of work Jo, your skills are something to be envy of. :praise2:
Don
-
Hi Jo
I have enjoyed the build of this little vise along with all the rest of the house mill goings on.
You better get some paint on it; it appears that it may be starting to rust, or is that just patina?
Dave
-
Dave: that is JB Weld filling some of the "decorative" casting holes. I have given the bits a quick prime, not sure if it survive the attention it will be getting today but it can always be redone ;).
I was hoping to fit long reach dial gauges on Sexy but so far I am struggling to work out where to mount all three of them without them being in the way :( so I might be forced to buy another DRO :shrug:
Jo
-
I am struggling to work out where to mount all three of them without them being in the way :( so I might be forced to buy another DRO
What about putting some dovetail bars on her? You could then remove the dials if they are in the way...
Well - the only one difficult to position will be the one for the z-axis i guess?
-
As Florian has said...you could mount the indicators on the stop rails....at least the F1 has them.
All three axes.
Dave
-
I put Grizzly remote-reading DRO's on my F!, works OK, Y axis is difficult, because it interferes when head is forward?? happy to show if interested.
Mosey
-
Yes please Mosey ;D.
---
Lots of little bits still to do. Finishing off the Jaw plates, extending a drill so that I could drilling the fixed jaw for them:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5385.jpg)
Thankfully I had a tap holder that reached:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5386.jpg)
Then I decided to add slots in the centre of the base, to give me a second mount on Sexy's table :
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5387.jpg)
Then round the bottom of the fixed jaw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5388.jpg)
Then give the bits Sexy's trademark colour:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5389.jpg)
Tee bolts next after my coffee. :whoohoo:
Jo
-
Hi Jo, Great job! Can I ask where the handle came from?
Si
-
:naughty: The handle has been borrowed from my 2" vise I still need to make one :-\.
Jo
-
Really nice job Jo, as expected!
I really must get on and do mine - perhaps in the gaps between attempts at getting the Wyvern to start 8). A bit more work to do first though.
Sexy's looking really nice - I'm sure you'll find it pleasurable have something really rigid you can use indoors.
Rod
-
:naughty: The handle has been borrowed from my 2" vise I still need to make one :-\.
Jo
How many vises can you use at once,........? :headscratch: 8)
-
How many vises can you use at once,........? :headscratch: 8)
:naughty:
I can fit the Tidy vise inside the jaws on that little vise I have on my mill at the moment, then inside its jaws we could fit that Soba toolmaker's vise and then the 25mm Vertex will fit in side that, so that is four :stir:
Normally I don't go more than two at a time :LittleDevil:
Jo
-
Yes.....but unless you have more than two arms, you're only going to be using 1 vise at a time......
It's a 2" vise....just sayin.
Dave
-
:hellno: There are two reasons to use two vises on one machine:
1, Holding long items, You hold the work with one vise on either end and mill the centre section ;)
2, The little Vertex toolmaker's vise is intended to be held in another vise. It enables you to hold really delicate stuff that a normal vise can't :disappointed: It also means you can mount it at a jaunty angle without the need for an expensive angle vise. But if you want to do this the second vise must have parallel sides and the moving jaw must be narrower than the base.
Of course this is only for one machine, why would you want to have to keep unbolting vises from one machine to use them on the next? :mischief:
Jo
-
The tee bolts should be easy to make :wallbang: :wallbang: Turn the basic shape, get the diameters for the inner and outer curve right using a face plate:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5392.jpg)
Then turn the curve using a face plate (hello old friend :embarassed:)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5394.jpg)
But I started it too late in the day :slap: and the fit is not good enough I will need to start again tomorrow .
Jo
-
:hellno: There are two reasons to use two vises on one machine:
1, Holding long items, You hold the work with one vise on either end and mill the centre section ;)
2, The little Vertex toolmaker's vise is intended to be held in another vise. It enables you to hold really delicate stuff that a normal vise can't :disappointed: It also means you can mount it at a jaunty angle without the need for an expensive angle vise. But if you want to do this the second vise must have parallel sides and the moving jaw must be narrower than the base.
Of course this is only for one machine, why would you want to have to keep unbolting vises from one machine to use them on the next? :mischief:
Jo
8)
Jo...Friend.....I understand that...but you're missing my point. The vise handle slips on over a hex....and that hex apparently fits your other vise...now you may be mounting 1 vise inside the other vise...and that's fine...but I don't think you will be opening and closing both of them at the same time...probably adjust one .. so.slip the handle off...then adjust the other vise.....which will probably take two hands to adjust the vise anyway.....so only 1 handle is required....that's what I mean.
Just trying to save you some work....and some shop space.....not to be argumentative
Dave
-
Jo,
Here is the X axis in place sliding on a piece of 1-1/2" x 1/4" steel. No the reader doesn't go there, it was just resting. I used the existng bolt to fix the new slider. (that's my Sherline RT on a mount I made, very simple)
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0174_zps341ab3a3.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0174_zps341ab3a3.jpg.html)
Here is a closeup under the new slider.
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0175_zpsa269be79.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0175_zpsa269be79.jpg.html) This is the Y axis setup, very difficult to make a mount that will clear all of those little screws, etc. Good luck, this one is in prototype stage.
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0186_zpsa8d2147a.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0186_zpsa8d2147a.jpg.html)
(http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0188_zps2dcabed6.jpg) (http://s908.photobucket.com/user/sussna/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Robert%20Sussnas%20Mac%20mini/F1%20DRO/IMG_0188_zps2dcabed6.jpg.html) and here is a view of the angle brackets, very questionable. I hope you can improve on my arrangement. Good luck.
Mosey
-
Thanks Mosey, you have some great ideas for mounting scales. I have two 8"versions of those scales that I was going to throw out :embarassed:
When people talk about DRO's I normally think glass scales with clever software. Maybe I should reconsider what I already have :embarassed:
Jo
-
They are value for little $, but not the real stuff. OK for hobbyist like me. The grizzly ones are superior to the Shars, because they last, and are not vulnerable to oil, etc. The display is dim and hard to read, but for $100.00, what can you say. And they are easy to mount remotely without lots of holes. I have a drawer full of the other junk. They dont do bolt circles and such, but will do cumulative measurements.
When you get rid of the Cowells, just send it over.
Mosey :killcomputer:
-
When you get rid of the Cowells, just send it over.
:Jester: I think SCO is first in the line.
Jo
-
Whoop whoop! :cartwheel:
-
So the deal is I find/get an nice Schaublin 70 and C1 will be becoming available ;)
--------
I am much happier with the fit of these second set of tee bolts;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5397.jpg)
I also found this GHT rotary table which I made back in the days BD when spending on model engineering was forbidden >:(
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5399.jpg)
It needs a bit of a clean up but even the mounting holes line up on Sexy :whoohoo:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5401.jpg)
But I really must do some work on my S&P
Jo
-
Was just thinking about putting a Hemmingway order in for one of those tables and was trying to decide on geared or not.
Anybody got a spare Schaublin 70 lying about that needs a good home ;D
Simon.
-
:LittleDevil: I just hope this year's bonus is enough to pay for one ;)
A warning on the Vise, there is not a lot of space between the gubscrew and the clamping nut:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5403.jpg)
And finally mounted and squared up on Sexy
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5402.jpg)
Jo
-
Looks great Jo! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
Jo
Make a couple of long nuts and turn the lower portion down plain so the gib nuts can go past.
Phil
-
Wot Phil said!
You can put a little socket wrench on it to....but don't go over the vise bed height....that will be annoying.
Dave
-
Looks 1st class, aren't you missing some graduations and numerals on the base though? :naughty:
Simon.
-
Yes ;D But rumor is that Father Xmas is bringing me the castings for the Universal Pillar Tool for Xmas, one of the things it is good for is stamping numbers
I am not sure if I would have a rotary table this small geared it is really for rounding very small parts and you will spend forever winding the handle (and if the diameter of the handle is not big enough :-\) a handle poked in one of the holes in the base works ok.
Jo
-
If went for the geared version was planning on providing the handle as well for rounding jobs.
-
The factory rotary table on the F1 is just like GHT's Jo....so I see little need in making another one.
You can forget ebay....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$....when they show up.
Dave
-
Jo
Make a couple of long nuts and turn the lower portion down plain so the gib nuts can go past.
Phil
Or what about some local counter-bores to lose the nuts into, you would have to leave room round the nuts for a box spanner or socket, or just have done with it and machine a rebate along the bottom edge of the moving jaw for the nuts to hide in.
Phil
-
Jo,
Where are the castings for the dividing head, universal table, tilting/swiveling vise, horizontal head, and those other F1 toys?
But, seriously, very nice work. The Sherline RT fitted with a 35 mm spigot fits right into the universal mount. I have the full Users', Parts, and factory alignment Manuals for you, if needed. (you too, Dave)
Mosey in the snow.
:stickpoke: :cheers: :cheers:
-
Hey Mosey,
I have them too, and I think you sent them!... :ROFL: I tried to send them to Jo, but the files are BIG!....
If you have a smaller version of them....send them around to Jo.
Dave
-
Dave,
of course, that's the least I can do in return for that Cowells! I'll get cracking on it! :ROFL:
Mosey
-
Where are the castings for the dividing head, universal table, tilting/swiveling vise, horizontal head, and those other F1 toys?
I have a foundry lined up for January in the mean time I'm trying to learn pattern making :-[ But I am no good with wood, I had a bad enough time drilling some holes in some just now :toilet_claw:.
Jo
-
not to steal this post, but what are the practical limits of the Cowells? Can engines be made on them?
Mosey :headscratch:
-
The Crosskill could have been made on it and John B has made horizontal engines on his but don't expect to make a 1/6th scale S&P on one :lolb:
Jo
-
I thought I would have a little play to see how accurate Sexy is. So the Tangye offered up a couple of valves, and we had a little fly cut.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5409.jpg)
Even without digital scales Sexy is very easy to get extremely accurate depths of cuts. Looks like I have the same problem here that I have on the BCA: the machine is more accurate than the glass scales that normally come with a DRO set. But do I really need all those decimal places? :hellno: but it feels good ;D
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5410.jpg)
The handles are bigger on this than the BCA, gives it more feel... I am at sixes and sevens (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif)
And forgot to mention: I knew I shouldn't have a fella in the house twice he has seduced me into having another play with him :embarassed:, cast Iron swarf every where just after I scrubbed up clean for the week of work :facepalm:
Jo
-
Where are the castings for the dividing head, universal table, tilting/swiveling vise, horizontal head, and those other F1 toys?
I have a foundry lined up for January in the mean time I'm trying to learn pattern making :-[ But I am no good with wood, I had a bad enough time drilling some holes in some just now :toilet_claw:.
Jo
First thing you need to do, is to draw up the attachment complete. Then....scale it to 101% to allow for shrinkage. Then you have to add pad to the surfaces that need to be machined, and figure out your parting line and coring.....you'll notice I have not said cut any wood yet......
NEXT....we can figure out the best way to piece the pattern together....get the Alibre model posted, and we can talk. Round Cores for cast iron come in 1/8" increments, so if you play your cards right, you won't need a core box.
Once we get that far, you can send a picture of the pattern to the foundry for their opinion...and you can find out if it needs a match plate or not....Just a fancy name for a piece of heavy plywood....
Dave
-
Looks like I have the same problem here that I have on the BCA: the machine is more accurate than the glass scales that normally come with a DRO set.
Jo
Jo
Can you explain the above statement, and how you have come to that conclusion please.
I am not agreeing or disagreeing, I just want to understand what you mean exactly.
Cheers
Phil
-
I think it means that she's ecstatic about the mills accuracy. Hugh.
-
Dave it is not designing the pattern, we have done that (attached) it is my experience of using the brown stuff :toilet_claw: Jason has been trying to convince me that working in white building wood is not the same as the green stuff he has generously given me. I am going to start with the putting together the patterns for the BB1 gears to enable me to understand this material and work up to the tilting table design that I posted a few pages ago.
Phil: originally with the BCA I used large diameter dial gauges, you could them read to 0.001mm the standard glass scale are only to 0.01mm. I still notice that it takes a (relative) lot of movement on the BCA handle to get that smallest digit to increase. So for now DROs are on hold for Sexy.
Jo
-
When Jo said green stuff don't think she is talking about unseasoned wood, I have given her some Moisture Resistant MDF which will be ideal for the gear blanks and could also be glued up for the bracket.
Alibre does not put the draft angle on to the circular parts in a way that would allow the part line to go where I think it needs so its a bit of a long process drawing and then cutting 2degree triangles off.
I've seen that drawing somewhere before haven't I ;)
-
Dave it is not designing the pattern, we have done that (attached) it is my experience of using the brown stuff :toilet_claw: Jason has been trying to convince me that working in white building wood is not the same as the green stuff he has generously given me. I am going to start with the putting together the patterns for the BB1 gears to enable me to understand this material and work up to the tilting table design that I posted a few pages ago.
Phil: originally with the BCA I used large diameter dial gauges, you could them read to 0.001mm the standard glass scale are only to 0.01mm. I still notice that it takes a (relative) lot of movement on the BCA handle to get that smallest digit to increase. So for now DROs are on hold for Sexy.
Jo
Yes...but having the pattern drawing in front of you makes decision making with the brown stuff easier
Looks like a layer cake to me.....You may want to consider a core print coming out the top of the table base....would save some hogging of material later. Maybe a 1" core?
Dave
-
:o This is my first attempt at having my own castings done and pattern making. I want to start simply and work up to more complicated stuff at a later stage.
Jo
-
Well....it would actually make the pattern less complex. Now I state this based on the fact that in the States, foundries that pour iron have round core stock in 1/8" increments. So if you add a core print, the foundry could just drop in a premanufactured core during the molding process.
Here's a picture of one of my cylinder blocks with "core prints" which are in red.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Steam%20Launch%20Rushforth/P8200136.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Steam%20Launch%20Rushforth/P8200136.jpg.html)
The pattern would be rammed, and then removed, then just prior to closing it up...the cylindrical cores would be dropped into the impressions made by the "core prints"
Now this does have a draw back, depending on the foundry. If the resulting section is thin, it can chill in the mold and be hard. The foundryman can give you better advise on that than I, but I didn't have any problems machining my castings.
Dave
-
To be fair to Jo that was just a part done sketch to give her an idea of how I thought it needed to be split to enable it to be pulled from the sand. Yes it could be cored say 1" as the bore is 35mm which would reduce the risk of shrinkage in that area.
-
No Critisizm Jason....just an observation. Your right about the shrinkage.
But some of this will be foundry specific...as well as gates and risers....so that's why I think it a good idea to bring a drawing of the pattern to the foundry first...and get some feedback from them
The foundry I used for instance much prefers that you use a match plate as they have quite a bit of automated equipment in their facility, and it simplifies the whole work flow....but I've heard of foundries that will work with loose patterns....so it depends....in any case, it will show that you care about a good casting if you involve them up front.
Additionally, thought should be given to the first cut....in what machine and with what tooling?.....it's hard to hang on to draft...if you look at my block casting...it was a *@&^*@^ to set up for the first cut...and this part seems doubly so. Perhaps a chucking spigot somewhere?....maybe a boss to put a center in to support the other side with the tailstock?
That would allow a facing cut using a 4 jaw which will give you a nice flat surface to start with .......just thinking out loud.
Dave
-
Jo,
The F1 manuals are 25-35 pages long, each, so I cannot email them as Steamer also mentioned. Maybe at some time I can put them on a cd. In the meantime, if there is some item you need to know about, I think I can scan it for you, don't hesitate to ask.
Mosey
-
Mosey, if the manuals are in pdf format, could you compress them into a zip file?
Chuck
-
And when I say layer cake...I mean I see 3 distinct pieces...2 of which are similar.
The two "disks"
The center piece could have the core prints built into it, and these could project through one of the disks.
Make up your blanks from two halves...joined at the parting line with wood glue, but put a piece of newspaper in between...so you can seperate them later...and go somewhat easy on the glue, and bury a brass screw in there so you can work it as one piece, and it won't fall apart...until you want it to.
Add a couple of wood dowel pins to the blank too. To maintain a register.
Dave
-
Mosey, if the manuals are in pdf format, could you compress them into a zip file?
Chuck
No,no, they are paper! Remember that stuff, LOL!
Mosey
-
:)
-
:-[ This all seems too difficult I will stick with the gears this time and see how it goes.
-----
So really that must the the end of Sexy's thread he has moved in and is performing :embarassed: very nicely.
Back to engine building :whoohoo:
Jo
-
Somehow I don't think we will have heard the last from him, he is male and living in your house after all.
Once he starts showing his bad habits, I am sure you will be telling us. ;)
I bet he's already leaving stuff lying around on the floor !!
Wait till you give him some coolant and he becomes incontinent :embarassed:
Phil
-
Male? A tiny Swiss mill that's a male! I can't believe it! Wait till it changes it's mind a few times, and gets moody, then we'll see, and, wants more accessories, and demands more attention. :lolb:
-
The problem is Jo fell him even though he was a bit lacking in the tool department and wee all know she won't be satisfied until he has been endowed with tools that can do whatever she desires. :-[
J
-
Male? A tiny Swiss mill that's a male! I can't believe it! Wait till it changes its mind a few times, and gets moody, then we'll see, and, wants more accessories, and demands more attention. :lolb:
:headscratch: He seems very sure of himself, and he has a way of making me want to spoil him but you won't hear me complaining about him demanding my attention, it is nice to know someone wants you and together (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) we can share the pleasure of making little engines
Jo
-
Male? A tiny Swiss mill that's a male! I can't believe it! Wait till it changes its mind a few times, and gets moody, then we'll see, and, wants more accessories, and demands more attention. :lolb:
:headscratch: He seems very sure of himself, and he has a way of making me want to spoil him but you won't hear me complaining about him demanding my attention, it is nice to know someone wants you and together (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Love/love-094.gif) we can share the pleasure of making little engines
Jo
On Brother :ShakeHead:
Let me know if you want me to do a sketch of the swivel table pattern for you. Next week.....when I have a week off.. :whoohoo:
Dave
-
:embarassed: When you are in love then nothing is too good for the man in your life.
They arrived 7 days late :facepalm2: but I hope he will be pleased when it is done.
Jo
-
Yes definitely sexy! Check them with a file first....
dave
-
8) I just have nice :ThumbsUp:
Jo
-
Someone this morning reminded me about some castings :ShakeHead: he is incorrigible :naughty: so out I went and started squaring up the back plate for Sexy's tilting table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_6159.jpg)
These bits are rather big for my little mill :o Especially the main bracket which I did manage to get one surface flat. For now a little progress, squaring up will be done under power feed in parallel with making other things on the other machines. This is the set of parts for the table:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_6180.jpg)
Except one part is currently in the jaws of the Colchester :mischief:
Jo
-
:-[ Ok we have been having rumbles in the house :shrug: Sexy does not appreciate that this:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7823.jpg)
Is an expensive Cowells indexing head :ShakeHead: He has been hinting that this is much more to his liking:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7825.jpg)
This is my GHT Versatile Dividing head :Love: and the indexer/micro adjuser and it is capable of creating angles down to 1/1000 of a degree :o (Why you would need that accuracy I know not).
But the colour is wrong :facepalm: and he would prefer if it had the option of a separate tailstock as well as the one that comes on the arm. And when he discovered that I had squirrelled away the iron castings for the basic dividing head, tailstock and the bracket on the indexing attachment it was only a matter of time :shrug:
:headscratch: I thought he missed me sneaking the head and tailstock casting out for a clean up back in April, it did take a while to clean up some of the rust and get some clean surfaces:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/IMG_5537.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_5539.jpg)
And there it sat for a few months...
Jo
-
It is so tempting to start boring the head and tailstock but this uses the same clamping arrangement as the UPT so you have to turn lots of bits of brass for the clamps, then there is going to be more ball handles, which of course are not all the same size as the UPT ones :wallbang: and you have to make the bracket for the little tailstock support before you bore the castings:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7794.jpg)
And I also got to play with my Marlco knurling tool :whoohoo:
Now it is time to drill for all the clamping holes and do an little bit of rounding using the mill:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7802.jpg)
Giving me two castings ready for boring:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7804.jpg)
Jo
-
Dam! Girl your making headway. LOL......
:popcorn:
Don
-
Thanks Don,
To bore the castings it is necessary to mount them on the saddle of the lathe. The VDH is designed to be clamped directly on a S7B lathe's saddle for boring but as my Prazimat has an extra 8mm of clearance over the saddle it was necessary to pack the castings. As I had already carefully centre popped the centres of the spindle on either side of the casting lining things up was a case of putting a centre in headstock and tail and just centring the casting;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7809.jpg)
Then drill through from the headstock:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7813.jpg)
Using a between centres boring bar bore the tailstock 15.8mm for the tailstock shaft I made earlier :naughty:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7814.jpg)
Then set the main body casting up on the saddle and first bore the shaft on the side. this is the same diameter as the tailstock shaft so the boring bar if left is a perfect fit :ThumbsUp: Then using what will become the tailstock support bar to confirm the centre of the main bore centre everything up:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7815.jpg)
And bore away. Unless like me you find a blow hole in your bore line :rant: Which then has to be cleaned out and filled with JB Weld and left for 24 hours :toilet_claw:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7822.jpg)
So this evening I could finally finish boring the main dividing head ;D. Sadly I cannot mount my boring head on the lathe so the next stage had to be done on the mill, so first find the centre of :
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7828.jpg)
Then running the milling reverse ;) mill the end for the banjo to fit the already bored banjo hole:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7829.jpg)
I was going to look at starting the spindle:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7830.jpg)
But first I have to make the two nuts so that I have a gauge to be able to do my external thread cutting so that means the next job is cutting two internal threads :paranoia:
Did I mention anything about being ganged up on :facepalm: I only had the castings to make the basic head and then one of the other fellas in my life turned up with a box of come in handies for Sexy:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7831.jpg)
Which is a second headstock dividing attachment for a Myford, except that unlike my original this one has the bits for the indexing attachment and the micro attachment, which also fits the VHD 8). All I am missing is the worm to go between it and the 60 tooth Myford change wheel that I purchased :thinking:
Jo
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Not sure what the end result is going to be used for but it all looks very technical ;-)
Simon.
-
Simon, you need one :ThumbsUp:
:mischief: trust me. http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Versatile_Dividing_Head.html
Jo
-
Not sure what the end result is going to be used for but it all looks very technical ;-)
It's a machine that provides an affordable, equitable and non-controversial solution to the Midlothian question. It just needs the (3+j3) dimensional cams and voila...
It also has an optional attachment that makes Nether Heyford appear correctly on satnavs, but I don't think Jo has the bits for that
AS
-
:o I have just realised that Hemmingway now supply the kits for these without their excellent sets of drawings :headscratch:
Jo
-
Simon, you need one :ThumbsUp:
:mischief: trust me. http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Versatile_Dividing_Head.html
Jo
I remember asking before what the advantages of a dividing head were over a rotary table without getting a completely conclusive answer...
Anyway the question was more haven't you got one of these already so why make another?
Simon.
-
That is like asking if it is possible to live with only one lathe :ROFL:
Sexy wants a tailstock for his and the only way to get it matched with the main dividing head is to bore them both at the same time, the same as we had to do for the arms on the UPT at the beginning of the year.
I have also made a few minor modifications to the mounting on this one so that it can fit on Sexy's tilting table which I am hoping the castings have finished settling and shortly I will be able to get back to finishing it :whoohoo:
Jo
-
Of course - I had momentarily forgotten your need for multiplicity in all things ;D
-
That is like asking if it is possible to live with only one lathe :ROFL:
Of course it is Jo - I've been doing it for over forty years :o It's like riding a bike - two feet - two pedals :Lol:
-
In years gone by model engineers would have done everything on their lathes: Drill, Mill, cut gears etc. But IMHO it is normally easier to use a drilling machine to drill holes and a mill (or shaper) to make things flat. In the same way you can put indexing plates on a rotary table and use it as a dividing head.
Model Engineers are so ingenious in the way they use their tools, they can make so much with so little. ;)
Jo
-
Jo
Give your fella a treat and fit a stepper motor to the worm and get a division master controller ,and divide at will .
Very nice work and as usually very well documented
Stuart
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Don't really see why you can't bore the tailstock to withing 0.0005" of the head or better?
But would it not be more "versatile" to have a tailstock with adjustable height so you can index things like tapered columns to cut flutes etc? Handy for when you make that 1/24th scale Otto :LittleDevil:
-
I remember asking before what the advantages of a dividing head were over a rotary table without getting a completely conclusive answer...Simon.
A rotary table without indexing discs is only as accurate as you can read the venier scale
A Rotary table with set of 3 indexing plates is limited in the number of divisions it will give does depend on size of table as the larger tables take larger wheels which give more holes so more divisions available
A BS0 & BS1dividing head gives more divisions than the above
A BS2 Gives far more divisions than the above
-
In years gone by model engineers would have done everything on their lathes: Drill, Mill, cut gears etc. But IMHO it is normally easier to use a drilling machine to drill holes and a mill (or shaper) to make things flat. In the same way you can put indexing plates on a rotary table and use it as a dividing head.
Model Engineers are so ingenious in the way they use their tools, they can make so much with so little. ;)
Jo
Just a tease Jo - just a tease ;)
-
Strangely enough I do have a tailstock to go with the Harrison dividing head which is height adjustable and used that to mill the columns on my Lady S. But as this VDH is designed to go on Sexy's tilting table so it won't be a problem ;)
Jason you missed the effects of the size and orientation of the bearing surface. A horizontal rotary table has a large bearing surface to support the work. If used in the vertical mode is has a very small amount of bearing surface, where as the indexing head has a much wider bearing as it is designed to be used in that orientation (the VDH has a similair bearing area as the Myford S7B lathe headstock).
If you then use some sort of holding device in the centre of the rotary table to hold the work to move it far enough out from the surface of the table so that you can get your cutting head close up and personal with the piece of work you then start imposing even greater loads on the rotary table bearings due to the lever effect.
Jo
-
Just a tease Jo - just a tease ;)
:lolb: I know you are a one lathe man Tug
I am still looking for my perfect one :mischief:
Jo
-
But would it not be more "versatile" to have a tailstock with adjustable height so you can index things like tapered columns to cut flutes etc?
Bearing in mind that I've never done this so am talking out of my ar , er hat: If you were fluting a tapered column would you not want the flutes to be tapered as well,so the cutting depth of the ball ended mill decreases as the diameter gets smaller? Or does it not work like that?
Rod
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Just a tease Jo - just a tease ;)
:lolb: I know you are a one lathe man Tug
I am still looking for my perfect one :mischief:
Jo
Everyone knows that the Myford Super 7 is the perfect lathe >:D
-
Everyone knows that the Myford Super 7 is the perfect lathe >:D
I am selling mine ;)
Jo
-
:lolb: I know you are a one lathe man Tug
I am still looking for my perfect one :mischief:
Lathe or man Jo (or both :D ) good luck with your quest :)
Now, I really am off to make some more swarf :D
-
Jo the disadvantage of all that bearing surface is it adds to the height of the setup when used with the work sticking upwards so its good in some ways not in others, plus if you wanted to use the versatile vertically you would have to cobble together with an angle plate which would flex even more
Your last comment about loads on the tables bearings would only apply when cutting curves most of the time the table would be locked to the base so no load on the bearings. Also any downwards pressure would tend to push teh table against the base so the red area you showed in the L/H image would still come into play when used as in teh R/H
Rod, yes its usual to have the flutes run at a slightly different angle to the column surface.
-
Jo the disadvantage of all that bearing surface is it adds to the height of the setup when used with the work sticking upwards so its good in some ways not in others, plus if you wanted to use the versatile vertically you would have to cobble together with an angle plate which would flex even more
I personally use a 8" rotary tables when working the other way round ;) normally the one on the BCA which has a zero height addition.
But of course Sexy :Love: will be getting his tilting table which is designed to mount the VDH with its nose level with where the top of the standard table is.
Jo
-
Everyone knows that the Myford Super 7 is the perfect lathe >:D
I am selling mine ;)
I'm certainly hoping that the S7 is the perfect lathe, 'cos by strange a coincidence (that isn't really a coincidence) I'm buying one.
Mind you, even a Clarke CL300 or a Unimat 1 would probably be a more effective than my existing lathe (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=4120.msg76606#msg76606)...
AS
-
Just a tease Jo - just a tease ;)
:lolb: I know you are a one lathe man Tug
I am still looking for my perfect one :mischief:
Jo
Everyone knows that the Myford Super 7 is the perfect lathe >:D
Naw.....South Bend 9A......loaded..... >:D
-
:headscratch: Ok I need a pair of nuts, the words and music says they should have an internal thread of 1" by 24tpi and 1 1/16" by 24tpi, which does not match any std threads. Reading my Zeus tables 24 tpi threads seem to have a depth of 0.02556", so in real numbers = 0.65mm. A thread of 1mm ;D pitch would have a depth of 0.61mm, so that 24 tpi number seems about right :noidea:
So I guess I need two bores:
25.4- (2* 0.65) = 24.1mm
27- (2 * 0.65) = 25.7mm
:noidea: Is that right ? I reserve the right to attempt a 1mm pitch thread if I find it difficult to set up the change wheels on which ever lathe I choose to use to do this on :paranoia:
Jo
-
Depends on your chosen thread form to some extent, also if you are using those indexable tools are they part or full form? A HSS tool ground to a point will have to go in deeper than a full form tool with a rounded tip
-
Depends on your chosen thread form to some extent, also if you are using those indexable tools are they part or full form?
Yes using the tools but no idea on the form :noidea:
Jo
-
Unified has a flat at the tip equal to 1/8 the pitch. Don't recall metric off the top of my head.
Dave
-
The threading tool has a radiused tip rather than sharp and as I have a matched pair of these thread cutting tools I will assume that I should be able to cut matching threads :noidea:
I have taken off an extra 0.1mm on the bore to allow for that radiused tip.
Jo
-
Tubal Cain gives the minor diameter for a nut as D - 1.082P
So your M25.1 x 1 would need the hole 24.318 as the crests are flat
and the M27 x 1 would need the hole 25.918
If using a pointed tool then your depth of cut would be 0.65mm but as your tips will have some rounding to the tip its more likely to be in the region of 0.6mm. Thats assuming your tips are suitable for 1.0mm pitch, the larger pitch range partial profile will have too big a radius.
J
-
As my Prazimat has a metric leadscrew I would have the wind the tool in and out each time so 24 TPI or 25.4 tpi makes no difference as long as they match (I hope) So using one tipped threading tool and taking very shallow cuts using the mandrel handle:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7834.jpg)
A thread slowly emerged :)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7835.jpg)
Then off to my larger :naughty: dividing head to mill and drill the tommy bar holes and the grub screw holes:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7837.jpg)
The final stage being to part off and counterbore the back for a short distance leaving 6.35mm of thread
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7839.jpg)
So now I have two nice nuts and next is to play with my spindle. So near, so near :whoohoo:
Jo
-
Sounds like a great evening for you, a nice spindle with two nuts :LittleDevil: :lolb:.
Big E
-
Hi Big E ;)
The spindle is next, maybe for this evening. And then we can see how awful my first ever attempt at thread cutting was :lolb:
But I might get side tracked fondling some castings :mischief:
Jo
-
I wonder how well suited these tips are to hand turning the work? it looks a bit torn rather than cut, some cutting fluid may have helped.
Are you going to do a test male thread or risk the whole spindle?
-
That is not a bad idea :ThumbsUp: I was going to start by turning up the basic spindle shape then add the thread as an after thought.
Jo
-
And then we can see how awful my first ever attempt at thread cutting was :lolb:
Jo
:o
-
Yes I would turn up a test bar thread....just so you know what you're walking into.
Dave
-
Jo,
This is probably not very useful advice considering where you have already got to, but here goes anyway:
My experience is that there is an awful lot of spring with internal thread cutting tools so that cutting to size just by dead reckoning from the dimensions rarely produces a thread of the correct depth. I find that I usually need to make 3 or even 4 passes with the tool at the same setting before it stops cutting. My procedure, if possible, is to cut the male thread first where the tools and job are usually much stiffer and you can actually see what you are doing. Then cut the female thread until it fits, using the male thread as a gauge. Also, observe the crests and remember the percentage of engagement. If the crests are too pointy then you can get a false indication of how tight the thread is. One advantage of using a quick change toolpost is that if you find the female thread is getting quite deep then you can change to a boring tool to cut the crests off before returning to the screw cutter.
HTH
Rod
-
Thanks Rod,
The good news is that I am only using bits of come in handy to make these and :naughty: as I am visiting my supplier on sunday I can pick up some replacement bits of more come in handy if need be ;)
Spindle next :paranoia:
Jo
-
Jo, Rods post made me think, as we talked about the other day your machine does not stop very quickly so it may be worth thinking about threading away from the chuck under power. I did my fuel tank ends that way the other day as I was working to a shoulder with little room for a runout at the end of the cut.
J
-
:thinking:
Or use the Colchester which is designed for thread cutting underpower :embarassed:
Jo
-
Jason and Rod....excellent points.
Jo...don't be intimidated by threads....they're not that hard....most of it is the terror they cause thinking about them...but once your done, heh...piece of cake.
Oh and by the way....this is where a VFD drive really SHINES!....I can creep right up to the shoulder...and stop.
-
But I thought the Colchester had an imperial lead screw which means keeping the nuts tight.
Can you put up a bit of the spindle drawing so we can see how the threads are placed?
-
Thanks Dave :ThumbsUp:
The Colchester does indeed have an imperial leadscrew but if the nut threads are likely to be wrong then I might as well restart them using the original 24tpi thread, then I can use the screw cutting dial.
Jo
-
Assuming the Colchester has an 8tpi leadscrew ( or 4 for that matter) you can drop the half nuts in anywhere, you don't even need the indicator dial. 24 tpi will be soooo much easier.
Rod
-
Wot Rod Said!
Dave
-
Get yourself some nice free cutting steel too. 1144SP or 12L14....Plenty good enough for the expected duty.
threading that is much nicer.
Dave
-
The spindle was bored/reamed then it was supported with the tailstock to enable the outside to be made a snug fit with the casting.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7843.jpg)
I then used a parting off tool to provide two undercuts just after where the threads need to go.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7844.jpg)
Set the gearbox to provide 24tpi, then found the point on the tool is too short to be able to set the angle with a thread gauge :rant: So I assumed that the tip was the right angle to the shaft and squared up on that ;). I then let the Colchester help me cut the thread using her thread dial and :)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7845.jpg)
Cutting threads on the Colchester is a doddle in comparison with using the Prazimat :-X :pinkelephant: Next one will take next to no time
One thing that had been troubling me was why someone had made the two nuts on my existing VDH the same diameter as the nose (38mm). The drawings showed them at 43, I now realise there is sufficient in the jaws of the chuck to make the pair of nuts they will just not be as big a diameter. :thinking:
Jo
-
Jo, are you making the GHT standard spindle with the .750" bore? I'm thinking that, when it get around to it, I'll make another one with an ER32 nose, which I would find far more useful. I find that the spindle locks solidly in the body, but that the three copper backed grub screws can sometimes allow the straight shanked collet holder I use to rotate, which is very annoying! If the ER nose was integral to the shank, this would not occur. I'd still have the standard spindle if necessary, but it probably wouldn't need to be used very often.
Cheers, Hugh.
-
Jo, are you making the GHT standard spindle with the .750" bore? I'm thinking that, when it get around to it, I'll make another one with an ER32 nose, which I would find far more useful. I find that the spindle locks solidly in the body, but that the three copper backed grub screws can sometimes allow the straight shanked collet holder I use to rotate, which is very annoying! If the ER nose was integral to the shank, this would not occur. I'd still have the standard spindle if necessary, but it probably wouldn't need to be used very often.
Cheers, Hugh.
Hugh what I did to keep it from slipping is to cut three flats on the shaft so the grub screws has something to bite into and still be able to remove it. I installed the shaft and used transfer punch to mark it then cut the flats.
Don
-
.
Hugh what I did to keep it from slipping is to cut three flats on the shaft so the grub screws has something to bite into and still be able to remove it. I installed the shaft and used transfer punch to mark it then cut the flats.
Don
Thats a good idea Don, I'll do it. Hugh.
-
Jo, are you making the GHT standard spindle with the .750" bore?...
I find that the spindle locks solidly in the body, but that the three copper backed grub screws can sometimes allow the straight shanked collet holder I use to rotate, ....
Hi Hugh ;D (and Don ;))
I am making the standard spindle and it has the 3/4" bore, same as the other one. I have never experienced it slip but :o mine does not have the copper backings. I like Don's idea for three slight flats :thinking: I might borrow that when I get there.
Collet wise, I have made an adapter which allows the other one to take the BCA collets which go up to 3/8", which means I can hold items within 3/8" of the nose of the VDH 8). But for this one I was thinking of reusing the 2MT collet set that I had for the Myford which tighten from the nose and go up to 1/2" ;).
My experience of ER collets is that they can slip :wallbang: I much prefer my DA collets, which interestingly I have a couple of holders that go straight into the VHD. But all these other collets have relatively large nuts at the holding end so I am thinking how I might over come that obstruction to operations.
Jo
-
The spindle has been finished off with the three holes on the nose and the slot cut for the key.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7848.jpg)
Next up remake the nuts :(
Jo
-
One nut enlarged and recut for the larger thread ;) and a second one taken out of the offcut from the end of the spindle, so it is slightly a smaller diameter (38mm instead of 43mm) :)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7851.jpg)
Tomorrow is Old Warden :pinkelephant: so no swarf making ;)
Jo
-
Nice looking grub screws Jo ;)
Have fun tomorrow
-
:shrug: Why did I let them convince me that that Myford gear was a bodge :wallbang: :wallbang: Now I find myself converting a dog end of Cast Iron into the Gear for the Dividing head, so first of all face one side and bore to fit the shaft:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7941.jpg)
Turn and face the other side, then set up on a arbour to turn the outside to size. The next challenge is to cut the teeth:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7942.jpg)
Ok so I have a No2 20DP 20 degree PA cutter :thinking: I assume I just :lolb: jack one side of the dividing head up 4 degrees 32' and cut a normal gear but then I have to cut a matching worm :noidea:
Jo
-
Ok so I have a No2 20DP 20 degree PA cutter :thinking: I assume I just :lolb: jack one side of the dividing head up 4 degrees 32' and cut a normal gear but then I have to cut a matching worm :noidea:
I've often wondered about this :thinking: In theory you should set up a lead of 125 inches to get the helix angle. But over the width of that gear I can't believe that a straight angled cut would have any measurable difference. The alternative is to cut a spur gear and angle the worm. Or you could buy a helical gear from from Blackgates for £17, which is what I've got on my Timmins head.
Cheers,
Rod
-
:headscratch: Sorry Rod that is much too technical for me. Looking up the worms and worm wheels in Ivan Law's book: he shows that the pitch for the worm to match a 20DP gear is 0.1571" per tooth or 4mm in real money (0.108" or 2.74mm tooth depth) ;)
The worm is 25.4mm long OD of 18.5mm and left hand, so at least when I cut it I will not be power feeding into the chuck.
Out of interest on my existing head the original maker just set the shaft at the helix angle rather than using inclined teeth on the main wheel. But there is a lot of angular movement between the two gears if you offer them together :o
Jo
-
:thinking: So trying to work out how to cut that angled spur gear, I need an angle of 4 degrees 32" = 4.533 degrees. My indexing head is 122mm long, if I raise the front by 9.68mm that will give me the angle I need :thinking:
Jo
-
JO I hope you cut this gear, because I am real curious to see how you go about doing so. I have no doubt that you can do this, just need to know how you do it. Watching with great interest.
:popcorn:
Don
-
Out of interest on my existing head the original maker just set the shaft at the helix angle rather than using inclined teeth on the main wheel. But there is a lot of angular movement between the two gears if you offer them together :o
That's what happens on the HDA, the worm ( hence the HDA ) is angled at the helix angle to engage with the bull wheel, which is a spur gear. GHT points out that by using a helical gear rather than a proper worm wheel you are only getting point contact rather than line contact, which I guess is why there is a lot of leeway in meshing the gears.
Myford give the changewheels to cut DP worms in the instructions for the metric conversion set for the gearbox. You've obviously been a good girl because you're very lucky that the 20 DP worm pitch just happens to be a close enough to a simple metric pitch, if somewhat coarse, at 4mm ;) Which lathe are you going to cut it on (I'm guessing not the Cowells).
Rod
-
My DH is going to Southbend wheels and have the worm at the helix angle......the pitch of the worm happens to be on the quick change...or at least near enough!
Dave
-
:o That bit of recyclable was a bit close to the size required you can see where it has been taken to size and there is still some protective coating left:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7944.jpg)
The dividing head was raised to a jaunty angle and the height of the centre of the top of the gear measured, which was 152.3 mm from that I took half the diameter of the gear to give me the centre line of the blank then added half the width of the gear cutter to give me the dimension to the top of the gear cutter in the arbour. Using a 45 tooth dividing plate and a 40 tooth worm drive each tooth had to be cut 30 holes round from the last:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7946.jpg)
The Cast Iron was like butter to cut and having kissed the work with the cutter and then set the tooth depth it was easy to cut each on a single pass ;D
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7949.jpg)
And you can see the angle on the teeth appearing:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7950.jpg)
Having cut the teeth I then put the gear in a 5C Collet and drilled the indexing holes. I changed the design here as the original shows 4mm holes but as my big dividing head and the other VDH works perfect with 2.4mm holes so that is what it got ;)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7951.jpg)
To compare the standard 60 tooth Myford gear with the new gear:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7952.jpg)
If you try to put the gears together on the flat the teeth are the wrong shape:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7953.jpg)
If you angle them they run together:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7955.jpg)
I still need to cut the key way but I hope to be able to borrow someone's broach for that as mine only go up to 3.2mm >:(
Jo
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Don't come asking me as mine go from 1/8" to 3/16".
Nice teeth :)
-
I would ask Jason but I was hoping to finish this this side of Xmas :cheers:
Jo
-
Any excuse for another trip to engine heaven, bet you come back with more than a slot in your gear.
J
-
That's very smart. :ThumbsUp:
Rod
-
Great job Jo, you didn't really say how high you lifted the Dividing head or did I miss something......... :ThumbsUp: and thanks for showing it.
Don
Ok I see where you did calculated it and thanks.
-
Hi Jo,
Why not do it in reverse?
i.e. make the worm from silver steel and turn it into a hob then freewheel cut the gear. That way you know they will mate and will be pretty close to a true worm and worm wheel.
Best Regards
Bob
-
:thinking: Bob I think that cutting the tool for cutting the worm is not going to be easy at least this way I have something to shape up the tool from. Once I have the tool it will be easy.
As these gear are only to provide angular displacement rather than provide a power feed the fact it has only point contact should not be a problem. If I was going to power it to do CNC stuff :hellno: it would be another matter.
Hugh: You have me thinking about how to mount my 2mt collets on this head. I will need a piece of steel the same sort of size to make a Myford clone nose for the VDH as to make another spindle (and all my Myford nose compatible stuff is about to go ;)). I can see the advantage of making a second full spindle for the 2MT as they can be housed within the 27mm diameter of the casting body so there will be very little over hang :thinking:
Jo
-
I know someone who might soon be scrapping a Myford spindle and tailstock....
:smokin2:
AS
-
I think you've got to consider which system you'll use with most frequency. The GHT one is not without drawbacks, in fact it relies upon making a differently sized collet/sleeve for each application, at least in its original form. If you think that the Myford collets, or the DA ones (or whatever else you've got tucked away) is going to be the main game, then make the spindle to suit. As you point out, overhang is kept to a minimum, and you may want as much room as you can get. Your winter approaches!
Cheers, Hugh.
-
There have been a few of the arms that so far have not been finished off as I needed the distances between centres to do other things so this evening I set about cutting the tapers by mounting the work in a vice and using the appropriate size drills in the holes to give me the required angle:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7958.jpg)
Then rounding the ends :naughty:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7961.jpg)
Before moving on to round something even larger in diameter (the banjo):
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7959.jpg)
I decided not to use the original 5mm/2BA cap head screw the head looks too big :ShakeHead: so mine is fitted with a 4mm, which is drilled and tapped before slitting:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7960.jpg)
One more arm to round :whoohoo::
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7963.jpg)
Then I have some balls to look forward to :mischief:
Jo
-
Looking good Jo and your making good time on this one. Are you still going to make the worm?
Don
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Hi Don ;)
I do intend on cutting the worm but I still have to decide if I am going to make the extra bits for the fine indexing unit immediately or make friends with that set of engine castings that has been joining me for dinner of late :thinking:
Jo
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Finish as far as you can, you'll need odd numbers that the basic set-up doesn't offer. You will, you know. Hugh.
-
I came to make the centres to the tailstock only to find I had used an M5 by 1.0mm die on the screw that holds the centres in place instead of the standard 0.8mm pitch :facepalm: So had the opportunity of making another.
The centres are a piece of Silver Steel that has had a 60 degrees point turned on the end. I have made both male and female centres ;) Then to provide a bit of clearance the sides of the centres are milled so that there is only 1.6mm left to the centre line:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7973.jpg)
To put the tailstock together required a half moon cut out on the side of the main spindle:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7974.jpg)
It was a bit close :o The tailstock is coming together:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7975.jpg)
I can't hold off doing those ball handles for much longer but I have a second spindle underway, then I have to make friends with some engine castings :embarassed:
Jo
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Having thought about the different collets have I could use in this dividing head I chose to use 2mt collets (as I have some spare :) ) My supplier provided what proved not to be as free cutting steel as he first made out :stickpoke: and I started by turning the outside of the spindle and cutting those threads again ;D
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7976.jpg)
Then I set the correct angle for a 2MT taper:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7977.jpg)
And let the taper turner do most of the work cutting the morse taper in the other end. I finished with a reamer ;) The target was to get the collets when fully closed to stick out of the spindle by 4.76mm:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7980.jpg)
Then of course there was another thread to cut :embarassed: I thought about making it Myford nose sized but the 12tpi thread is better suited to mounting chucks than finely adjusting collets so decided to go with a 25.4mm by 24 tpi nose.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7982.jpg)
That will let me have a nose closer the same diameter as the outside of the dividing head
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7984.jpg)
:facepalm: Of course not all my collets are Myford nose closing collets, two are standard draw bar collets which means I cannot put long pieces through the dividing head :( and I am missing the 15/32" and all of the metric ones :-\
Jo
-
Jo I like that, but the cost of the Myford collets are a bit steep. I need to do something simular with mine.............. :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
The nose piece for the 2MT holder was first roughed out on the Prazimat, giving myself a shoulder to hold in a 5C collet and on the other side cutting for the inner thread internal diameter. Using this tool I undercut the back of the thread:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7985.jpg)
Then off to the Colchester to cut the internal thread, which was cut to be a nice smooth fit on the nose of the spindle ;D:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7987.jpg)
Then mill the three tommy bar holes, and face to the correct thickness to hold the collects:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7989.jpg)
Once it had been angled it fits on the nose nicely:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7990.jpg)
Then on to do the ball handles: There are four handles the main arms first have their ends centre drilled then the stems turned to the major diameter of the taper arm for the length of the arm plus the bit to go into the small ball. Having cut all four we can then cut the balls, first set up the tool by touching on the outside of the work piece:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7991.jpg)
Then move the carriage to the left and bring the tool up to touch the work and zero the z axis ;)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7992.jpg)
Wind the tool radially out to clear the corners of the piece and then using the arm cut the ball by rotating about the axis:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7995.jpg)
A quick polish and a set of parts or the next stage of the operation:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_7997.jpg)
You will notice I have already made the required pot chucks and I am cheating for the smallest balls and have softened some ball bearings to use ;)
Jo
-
Jo may I ask why you didn't turn the tapers and finish the end of the ball handle while you had it in the lathe? I usually complete the handle in one setup both ends. I just leave enough on the end of the last ball for support and saw it off and complete the remaining rounding on the sander or Chuck the other end through the Chuck jaws to file it round.
Don
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Hi Don,
I am using the same technique to make the ball handles on this as I used when I made the UPT. It proved to be quick and easy first time so I had no reason to change things.
- - - -
For those of you who have not made ball handles there are two well known model makers who have each published their own ways of making these: Prof D. H Chaddock & Edgar Westbury.
Prof Chaddock's technique is described in his book about making the Quorn tool and cutter grinder. He takes a piece of metal the overall length of the arm and turns the two balls on either end (I recall something about him using form tools :noidea:) . He then holds the ball in the chuck and supports the other ball in a female revolving centre to machine the taper between them. Before using a pot chuck to hold the handle for drilling.
I am following Westbury's technique in chapter 8 of his book Model Engineers Workshop Manual Where he makes the larger ball with a tapered stem and a smaller ball then glues them into a single arm before using a pot chuck to finish the drilling.
Either way Westbury's pot chuck design is very useful ;)
Jo
-
Turning the tapers on the arms is very easy without the ball on the other end. You simply turn the parallel section, then the taper:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8007.jpg)
Setting the taper was done using feeler gauges, then as normal I use marker pen on the taper to make it easy to see where the cut has got to.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8008.jpg)
The separate balls are again mounted in the pot chuck for drilling
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8009.jpg)
However at this point one of my smallest balls must have looked like a cricket ball as I heard a crack like willow on leather and it was nowhere to be seen. So a third ball bearing had to be taken up to red hot and allowed to naturally cool. They were still a bit hard so I drilled them using a carbide drill I had acquired. So a set of pieces for the handle:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8011.jpg)
Which then had to be glued together and clamped:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8012.jpg)
To prevent the balls sliding off due to the pressure of the air in the hole. Tomorrow I can finish putting them together
Jo
-
The ball handles can now be put in the pot chucks and drilled for the spindles:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8019.jpg)
The little ones had to be done on C2 ;)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8020.jpg)
Which left a few odds and ends like splitting the clamps :
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8022.jpg)
Before I could present him with his present ;D
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8023.jpg)
I think he likes it :whoohoo:
Jo
-
You're just showing off how many G cramps you have :) I assume that in the end Sixis will respond in a typical male way and spread swarf all round your study ::) I am still finding little bits of bronze from my bearing making at the weekend :(
-
Jo, do you machine a flat on the ball around the spindle or use a cupped washer so the laod is spread over a larger area?
-
Thanks Roger :embarassed: I am cruel I make him stand on a special industrial mat that I brought for him that is easy to vacuum up the swarf off of ;)
Jason all had flats machined after the hole is drilled ;)
Jo
-
Looks great Jo!
Dave
-
Beautifully done in record time Jo. You made that all look so easy. They all look great.
Don
-
Thanks Guys :ThumbsUp:
You will be pleased to know I will be making some more engines before I make the next set of tooling for Sexy :embarassed:
Jo
-
Very nice Jo! You're going to have quit a collection of tooling for your house mill!
Kim
-
Jo
I wish I could turn stuff out as fast.
Did you fit some tenons under the bases so you can drop them straight into the table tee slots, then they will line up with each other and the machine without having to clock them in.
Phil
-
Thanks Kim :)
Hi Phil, I have drilled the VDH for the Tenon mounting holes but not mounted any yet. For the initial planned milling the hex or square on nuts and bolts a degree or so offset on the head won't make any difference ;)
Jo
-
Its not the carpet that will be the problem but like any puppy dog he may be tempted to splash the curtains :Lol:
J
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Its not the carpet that will be the problem but like any puppy dog he may be tempted to splash the curtains :Lol:
J
Now that's funny!
:ROFL:
-
A very nice spindle Jo, and I will make another for mine. I wonder if you'll ever use the original? Hugh.
-
Hi Hugh :),
I am not sure I have already been toying with the idea of making an adapter to be able to fit the Cowells collet chucks to this new spindle. At which point the original might as well just stay in the drawer ;).
Jo
-
I guess you could always acquire another casting to fit the original spindle to.
-
Hi Hugh, I have made myself a 2mt to Cowells nose adapter so now I can fit all the chucks from C2 onto Sexy's VDH.
In the meantime I have been doing some simple bits and pieces, one of which has been the dividing plates for the VDH. These came as stamped out black steel blanks which were horrible to face. To drill the holes I opted to use the DRO and mount the plates on an arbour in a 5C collet:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8205.jpg)
They have initially been drilled using a centre drill this gives me both the hole and the countersink. But I have given up drilling the holes for tonight.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc12/jothoms/Workshops_and_tools/Sexy%20Mill/IMG_8206.jpg)
Only another 750 more holes to go and then I need to redrill all of them so that they go all the way through the plates :-\
Jo
-
Jo, just how many damn projects do you have going on? My ADDS would be in the nut wringer :lolb: :lolb:
Big E
-
Eric you know you will never get a straight answer :lolb:
And I thought that I had too many projects in process :naughty:
Dave
-
Jo, just how many damn projects do you have going on?
Two: The Titan and the VDH, there are a couple put to one side for now but I wouldn't want to get bored :hellno:.
Jo
-
Two !! What happened to the Orphaned Centaur ?
Mike.
-
I'd cut her some slack.....I think I've got six....that I remember!.....and I'm not working on any of them!.... :lolb:
I think she's doing awesome!... :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
Two !! What happened to the Orphaned Centaur ?
Mike.
The Centaur has been put to one side until I am able to think straight again. In the meantime I am sticking to simple things that shouldn't go wrong or things that are unlikely to cause any additional frustration :-[.
Jo
-
I think she's doing awesome!... :ThumbsUp:
Dave
Thanks Dave ;D
Sometimes we all need a bit of encouragement.
Jo
-
Only another 750 more holes to go and then I need to redrill all of them so that they go all the way through the plates :-\
Thats a lot of handle turning, don't blame you for spreading it over a couple of evening sessions. What are you going for six sets of holes in each ring? and will we see the pantograph in action to do the numbers or will the UPT get to throw some punches in anger?
J
-
Thats a lot of handle turning, don't blame you for spreading it over a couple of evening sessions. What are you going for six sets of holes in each ring?
I only managed 131 holes last night :wallbang: After so long things go "ting" so best to walk away. Yes all three plates will be populated with their full six rows:
1) 78,66,50,42,32,27
2) 60,48,38,34,31,29
3) 60,53,47,43,41,37
This gives most divisions as can be seen from the attachment.
and will we see the pantograph in action to do the numbers or will the UPT get to throw some punches in anger?
I am not sure if there will be enough space left between the holes on these plates to get even my smallest number punches in.
Whilst making these I went back to my exisitng VDH and had a look at the plate on that: it has three rings of holes. For some reason the maker put the 60 hole ring on the outside and tried to get a 63 hole ring on the third ring and unsurprisingly didn't have enough space for all the holes an was forced to make the holes smaller.
So it looks like I will need to make another set of plates for it once I am done :paranoia:
Jo
-
I suppose it would not be a bad idea to knock up a 4th plate at the same time to keep ready so that you can drill it with any special combinations as the need arrises.
You could always punch the numbers on the outside edge, at least that way you don't have to spend ages counting holes to find the right plate.
J
-
I have a second set of plates being cut for me ;). But the beauty of the VDH is that if you use the 60 hole wheel and the micro adjuster you can get down to 0.001 degrees, which is not too bad an inaccuracy if you don't have the correct holed plate
You could always punch the numbers on the outside edge, at least that way you don't have to spend ages counting holes to find the right plate.
By stamping each plate with its number and having that VDH look up table it shouldn't be necessary to count holes :)
Jo
-
Hi Jo thats turning out real good. You spit that out pretty quick. I have attached a spread sheet that has all of GHT's hole arrangement and it calulates which place and hole pattern to use, all you do is enter the number of holes you need. I have also made one for the Micro attachment but haven't refined it enough for anyone else to use so I didn't post it.
Don
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8) Very nice Don, thank you :ThumbsUp:.
I feel the need to go and drill a few more holes :-\
Jo
-
Don,
Thanks, that's very useful - saves having to go and look at the book. I made 3 1/2 plates for my HDA, I made a mistake on the third row of holes had had to scrap it >:(
Cheers,
Rod
-
You just keep on drilling and chilling :LittleDevil:. Dave, I can't cut her any slack, she won't reciprocate. Next thing you know She will be all over me about threads above a nut or the way I'm holding a casting. It's the gender of the species, and I've devoted a lot of a time and money to research :mischief: She knows I really love her 8)
E
-
462 to go :toilet_claw:
Jo
-
I need to make two plates for my Van Norman; they are all drawn up and I have the material, can I send them over?? :LittleDevil:
Nice work Jo!
Dave
-
Sorry Dave, it looks like I am going to be a bit busy :shrug:, the second set of plates are already ready for delivery :facepalm:
Jo
-
My daughter's half-term assignment ("The Four Fundamental Flaws of Democracy") needs 4-hole drilling before she hands it in. You seem to be on a roll here - can I bring it round?
:mischief:
AS
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Round and round in ever decreasing circles, 124 holes to go, on this set :toilet_claw:
I have changed technique: three centre drill ends became blunt and even with a bit of hand sharpening with a diamond in the end broke in the holes :-\. So the technique now is drill over half way with the centre drill all the holes, then drill all the way on the pillar drill and then use a countersink to finish the countersinks on each side ;)
In amongst my many side tracks :-X I knocked up a new rack for my 30 Int arbors my old rack for 12 holders had proven to be too small so I made a bigger one. But I still seem to have still half filled the old one
Jo
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Jo
Do not use a centre drill for spotting holes use the correct tool a spotting drill short and stubby just right
Centre drill IMHO are for that drilling centres for centres to run in not for starting holes
I will look up a link
Her you go
http://www.shop-apt.co.uk/spot-drills-altin-coated-carbide-90-120-point/spot-drill-3mm-diameter-altin-coated-carbide-90-point.html
Stuart
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I do not have any spotting drills small enough, mine only go down to 2.6mm
thanks for the link :ThumbsUp:
Jo
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Jo
They do them down to 2mm
You only need to dimple the work to get a good start
Stuart
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Don't know why you need small ones Jo, just use the drill to give the desired CSK dia which is determined by how deep you go and then change to the through drill. You are not getting mixed up wit stub drills again are you?
Like Stuart I now only use centre drills when I'm actually going to use a centre in the hole, the rest of the time I use a spotting drill to start holes. I get away with just 1/8" and 3/16" but I suppose 3mm and 5mm would do you.
J
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A mammoth task Jo, and a tribute to your perseverance, even if you were driven to woodworking along the way. Hugh.
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Hi Jo,
Those plates are looking great, what are you going to do with them when you finally discover electron dividing :mischief: ?
I must post up what I did to my rotary table. Built mine to Kwackers design, even for me, who is electronically backward I got it to work, mind you I did by the tested complete board!
Oh the other thing are your other machine starting to sulk with all the attention that Sixis getting? You won't to be careful! :lolb:
Cheers Kerrin
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Thanks Guys :ThumbsUp:
Oh the other thing are your other machine starting to sulk with all the attention that Sixis getting? You won't to be careful! :lolb:
I am being careful :) once I say goodbye to the Myford I can start planning for the bigger mill, assuming the other things sort themselves out :-\.
Jo
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once I say goodbye to the Myford I can start planning for the bigger mill
That day is getting closer - despite being laid up with Ebola I've still managed to get *some* more clearing work done, and I'm nearly there...
AS
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Done ;D
Jo
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That is a lot of holes Jo!
All done with one drill?
Simon.
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Have a bar of Cadbury's Hole Nut to celebrate...
AS
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What do you mean done, what's that plate doing without holes in it? LOL nice job JO.
Don
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Holy something!
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Simon: Once I had it pointed out to me that I was running the drill too slow I had no more breakages but I did touch it up a couple of times with a diamond as it began to sound wrong ;).
Pete: Sadly I have no edible nuts in the house Cadburys or otherwise :shrug:
Don: I am so pleased that is over and done with, you never mentioned when you did yours how time consuming it was. The spare plate was where the bandsaw was set up to cut the other three so it seemed a shame not to prepare that just in case I need a different number of holes in the future.
Looking forward I don't think there is anything really interesting in the rest of the build. I might even get some time to play with the Titan :whoohoo:
Jo
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The worm is nothing more than a very deep left hand thread :shrug: So start with checking the pitch (the first time I had put the coarse feed gear on in the wrong place :facepalm:) by marking up the outside of the blank and letting it make a witness line.
Then slowly cut the thread. The Colchester :Love: is really good at this as she has a flicky switch that lets you go straight from forward to reverse but it is still best to stop the lathe at either end. I found as the cut got deeper that I should have left a 4mm wide gap at the left hand end but thankfully got away with it.
Then drill and ream the worm, face the ends then Loctite it onto the shaft. I will give it a final clean up once that Loctite is good a cured ;).
Jo
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Very nice job Jo, but is the tool at the proper Helix angle? You fail to mention this and the tool tip width.
Don
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Hi Don, I ground a tool to fit the tooth on gear I had cut, with sufficient clearance for the helix at the bottom, it was nothing fancy :shrug:
Jo
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The material for the arms was shaped like a banana :disappointed: but to do anything with them required them to be riveted together so that helped straighten them out. The only interesting bit was boring the hole on the lathe :shrug:
A few more little bits made today and now it is only the Micro Adjuster to go :).
Jo
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Oh yea! I like that a girl after my own heart. The brass touch, you're learning.
:popcorn:
Don
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Finally ::) I have gotten round to fitting the DRO on Sexy.
He seems pleased with it and is now expecting a lot more attention :embarassed: and has given me a long list of other jobs to do for him. :facepalm:
Jo
(and Surus :pinkelephant:)
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Hi Jo,
Very nice! Hope the list isn't too long.........hopefully we get to see some of his output?
Cheers Kerrin
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Hi Kerrin,
You guys do get to see his output but I am aware of the effect he has on some people :embarassed: so I don't show that many photos of him doing his stuff 'cause I know they will be getting jealous ;)
Jo
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I've been following this thread for sometime now.
I have a very early deckle mill the grey one at the bottom.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/deckel-early/
I would like to change the head arrangement to a on similar as the Sixis or Schaublin but I don't want to adapt the original head or to get rid of it.
I was thinking of mounting a T slot table in place of the original head to which I could bolt a variety of different heads for different operations making it more versatile.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated