Model Engine Maker
Supporting => My Workshop => Topic started by: machineshed on November 07, 2012, 09:36:14 AM
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After a nine week wait the lathe has arrived and it now looks about ten times bigger than it looked at Chester's showroom!
just got to move it :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:
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:whoohoo: Don't you love it when a new machine arrives. Looking forward to seeing the photo's
Jo
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I'm sure you are going to enjoy your Crusader as much as I do with mine.
Understanding the gearbox setting up was the only real operating problem that I had, but once I had the key figured out, all has been great since. Don't forget that the drop in dial for screwcutting has three separate gears you can fit, but only for metric. For Imperial, you have to leave the half nuts permanently engaged.
John
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John, did you stick with the chester supplied "T2" QCTP?
I'm looking to end up with a dozen or so holders, so would really like to head in the right direction!
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I bet that was a long nine weeks too!! Glad it arrived safely...we will nee pictures of course :)
Bill
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Yep, I still have the T200 piston toolpost on there, plus many, many tool holders. Soon to be adding a lot more 1/2 depth ones as well, for holding smaller tooling. They are very easy to make once you get organised, or you can order fairly cheap ones from the US, as long as you don't mind donating to the government in the form of import duty, but they still work out cheaper than buying here.
I waited for many months for my lathe to arrive, and the first one that was delivered I rejected due to a lot of mainly cosmetic faults, but the replacement was spot on, and they even added a few mods of my own to it at the factory before I would take delivery.
Do NOT remove the gap bed whilst still under warranty, it will invalidate it. Read the small print in the manual.
John
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Doesn't it seem strange that removing the gap bed is, per the factory, a bad thing? What's the point of it then?
Lee
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Lee,
Because when you remove the block, depending how the lathe is set up with regards to leveling, the block might not fit back in exactly the same position, and as it has part of the slideway ground onto it, the saddle may not move correctly across the refitted block, and may even jam up.
So what they are saying is that if you do remove it, they will take no further responsibility, as they have no control as to how level the machine will be when it is your hands.
John
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John is right there. You need to have a machine that built that way from the get go to get the gap to go back in correctly.
The bed would be rough machined. A scraper would fit the gap piece to the bed for a VERY good bearing. The bed would then be finish machined and scraped, or ground.
AND
By design, the bed has to be rigid enough to allow all this to happen without it becoming mis aligned.
It's no small task to provide that.
Dave
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Got it, thank you'se for the explanation.
Lee
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going well, crate off and now i'm having to remake bottom of crate because its half inch to big for the doors!
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few pics of where i'm up to, mates coming round tomorrow to help get in me shed
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Bummer about the 1/2" but im sure you will sort that out. Best wishes with the move and install!!
Bill
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got it moved into the shed, got to say easy peasy!!
it rolled so easy!
just got to bolt the base on (not forgetting to silicon seal it AND FIT THE BL**DY FOOT BRAKE THAT I'VE JUST REALISED HAS BEEN FORGOTTEN :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: :Doh:)
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Not long now before you can start making swarf ;D
Jo
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Glad all went well! Nice looking lathe too.
Bil
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How's the new lathe? Have you made any swarf with it yet :???:?
Jo
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BTW, with the forwards leadscrew spring cover on, you will not be able to do any close work with the faceplate, the toolpost will just not get close enough before the spring cover gets a mechanical lock, I had mine removed by the factory before delivery.
Also, the chip guard will not allow you to turn large items on the faceplate, as it gets in the way. They fitted me a much larger commercial guard that gives me plenty of clearance.
I did lots of little mechanical mods to mine, just to make things easier for me.
John
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i'm still at the "sorting" stage.
Its taking a lot of restraint, but i'm taking my time to sort everything first!
The Sino manual account for a fair chunk of time yesterday!
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Finally cut some metal!!
Had some issues with chuck (not being able to get soft jaws!! chester sent me a new chuck) and some other fettling and its great!!!
Still a few issues to sort, but its a fantastic lathe!!
screw cutting is easypeasy and parting off is knife through butter league!!!
still got plenty of jobs to sort out (readout for tailstock being one!)
can't find out what voltage and watts the light is, does anyone know?????
cheers Jim
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Finally cut some metal!!
:pinkelephant: :pinkelephant:
Jo
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Rotagrip do quite a good range of softjaws for the chucks on the imported lathes if you do need anymore, got mine from them
from half way down page (http://rotagriponline.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=51&keyword=&manufacturer_id=0&Itemid=29&orderby=product_name&limitstart=30)
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the size of the jaws on the chuck the lathe came with were a weird size!
i'm going to make my own two piece jaws to two different designs.
looking forward to getting more done
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MS,
I don't know what voltage the lamp is, but mine does have a mains converter on it, so I would suspect a max of 24volts but most probably 12volts.
I did do one crucial mod to mine, moving the lamp from the saddle (where it gets in the way) to mounting it atop the backsplash, meaning that because it doesn't now move with the saddle, all shadows and hilighted areas don't move, making machining a lot safer and easier.
John
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I did do one crucial mod to mine, moving the lamp from the saddle (where it gets in the way) to mounting it atop the backsplash, meaning that because it doesn't now move with the saddle, all shadows and hilighted areas don't move, making machining a lot safer and easier.
John
That's been done, thanks.
i'll get me volt meter on the lamp.
cheers Jim