Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: tinglett on August 25, 2014, 01:19:04 AM
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I'll take the plunge and do a build log of an easy engine. It won't be nearly as exciting as the big stuff I see here, but I'm hoping to get plenty of criticism and advice -- hopefully in a positive way. I plan to post loads of photos, so please let me know if I'm overdoing it. I've shrunk them down and I'll use clickable (zoomable) thumbnails for most so hopefully the photos won't get annoying. I lurked quite a bit here before finally getting off the ground, and I'm hoping this helps others who are doing the same.
Ok...so the engine. It's a simple oscillator that is made primarily of cold-rolled steel. My first two engines were also oscillators, but were mainly aluminum. This one is called the pip-squeak that's from a plan by Bill Reichart available from Little Machine Shop https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2343. Note that there is more than one engine floating around with this name.
Here's the image of the engine from little machine shop. Hopefully I'm not violating rules showing it direct. I'll link it to their website if you want a closer look.
(https://littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.2343.jpg) (https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2343)
The engine has two supports that form the frame. The tall one will support the cylinder and is 1.5 inches wide, almost 4 inches tall, and 3/8 inches thick to give an idea of the engine size (~3.8cm x 10cm x 1cm).
Here I square up the tall and short supports.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TH5yJwlYJJrNFR-IIafhu13nDvh5A9QsI4NJqXbF8V51sM8dtDjiuH7KeQlywf75Isda6A6JcaXwgPNCFt8ZjGmphxwIFpK35JzyzJI73i8F13CX2CdfpBXkk4XG5Y0HRuuorx3-9mPgLQIyoRY9AxKJvZcnsH-o3iJH6BXb04uYf9C7aLEGgZnOKWCplmCicfVJ3A0F7kaxY6A3H7tea7M2NmGtlK46wYcEm6t1J_dvAZ-mXN9476q_wVbV-N5dKeacdoHELZFixn2ixwPV21XXnSLKw4piXTxhaw47eX0Z3F0adJXiUJSZ1VIIbcM5Q6IPve8JZpFLVlr4RJiRZJ6N9UUHb6DBJ_TpzPRwaiPeYKJ_ysEO-L9nPg82Dy6OujIL11vojVqrOGsYiyYm2lLbSsTJTD32n4YHBjGBI-PKBB1RQgy56ZVFyPPxdyXcyEptr_5STh76W5KFSjm6tQLbucF0XWGs1mKlWgLaii7pzCWIlnX9hI9lqhA_WcTjA2JLSTyFigYlPPqioQkiFfNXGLD_lVJE5x4beR8G0pmq5xMxzl2Pey9UNbBCl1PEwkvjRYhXWNkikq-IKeNm7LA0T69vzZ-48fa-DgUMwH7sq6jYnYN2zOMPvw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tzbQat_iPyFrd384jsIHd1DzrLHZFAa3EHoTGilfKoD4XbMkRa3GgQ3Kj2R2tCDDT2JrBCCpkUQjmesTSe1o3yPI4e-PmjfiLyH1i9oiWQFjDMWw7T2Dj-2UrEx4btRPfryMMw5tc9hm-ohPqLB90-lXCjXQOSFW4OXEy3pn6G9LMbmLsIXnoOZX4zcCueXpwJoJOyp3D-i3R--gq9f05g40TLmWkotytjFliY3_w4oLZJnx4usroNFvjJ2rn1EUUEyns980tbwv-TOT91KYS95I1YDjj7ktc0H9WyDS8m50rUtD9B2y6tzoC3spDCFjFAhOrS8d529JkWUQMbXk1gRihzegC4kgvcroXu90Q8bnF2PRAvVqbRTISDtmKLiFHCXf1Vviqp5jOGzymnwDFFQ3KYfag0zopI33tmdUbEPW9nttiy2pwP_i-QgG6nXZUPm0Ujk1e-oj1nCT-KliI3xA83Fj8H1IFh1E4Fo5GqALvcYj_y-xgXWq-yr7kPVoiS0m0dg5OnvfsYYRWMlzT4QnuAaGAtwrN3Y9qRORz4vmCOGshWxMHWVc8ZfeZu2o9NS52jDog6eBztz2n1rjD9VhNxHT1pH5pvO-NVihT2kNA8Ij1ImuQ9by7w=w800-h600-no)
Next I had to drill and ream what will become the bearings for the shaft. These need to be perfectly aligned so the plan advised to do this together. I hadn't milled the sides of the supports, but they were cut from the same bar and were reasonably straight so I used paper to get a tight fit in the vise. I'd be interested if anyone has opinions on how this should have been done.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CpW4oWwtpDeWeX3IH5w86NtwUdKGPxWwyGQiyzF-bE5yA8klIPDufDXiBCtZI8NvMA_7sBzOuoPYOKhmWNxDd68OVkfhGh609OLPPyualqA8Ma4rrcki5OcoAmsKU9IZpbWV22_9dA7THzMAZoAfIaOm0HLWV8fzSB1Ae4iOl5ECJ_Gan257NVENKwOfqm11C--E8Di-DQpI0W4wPEz9rZTHVhB5QAEkKZapKwwjLck1Hq7vUfnhrFZP8jE1w5umqY918w2qbH6f91wMFCddfE70M8bOIGxMgvInIYkr-Yf2Iz5QLyImpmd8JP404grittOpm8fyjzirW0-LcJTZ6IsU27W64TSHC6e-fDg42_SX98kKvH4PbcTFQq8z3NFvtC697oC_Xv1R00JVTw6km2YvTjcQNCq8lVeHJba2J1c6eROhQh0F_0YSEzrErnDyNkSjc9-LZ0uFi9h5C-Y-7kP6LvjmRLAxHhhkz5-UCDBqobnbVgRqtymBU87yNgEdr9rFBlGOKFMNcwvM4KJ-g3O9SXezLepWuTjNqRBubmg5agIi_TBz2E5JCycDlevFBOh-jIXGFDaZjesaletBmUZCuSv3OizOMqymu7GPuFF3rMBs6UyR-j-qzQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oQIiEULChvi2b1BM7d_tBf2llEyBvXrLHltPgkMQcS6HZ8Od1zXSVogBZpElRsyZ1wFNS5V-kDzwUgWjd2CRjbthLviu-fy4SD-EWVvW2NnhTI9wXc_3-054Mon15tDMYWitpMeFPULDb_TRJyNl8T2ARLTYx6lpU2Vp0F8qLvdrzy5nJS099QkXMJ0hxsQwt4gjkJjq5SjJlvrSRGtvvYlMorc9dzIxQzeSOxtRQnQxeFGiyMSeTkFXvygA_VbhKRCKBU5GHjMBILNCaA4Pa-QE8SIy30_D8Sx7kmbxYf81zAfQP9RWV-zdZMfF9CLO5c4V7KHA1Z92_hJWAaUqf4PC2SKRQOh2TEgie08kuqluLI_LQQ9VfKaE3ZP3nqROfAfa_yBAk_0_SguLRVBz7bL2YiDA_vbEB0kFlNLAkgN9rQ6UO2OzloY6Ij93cvfVUW4WTy3PmDqh_i6S_eEdth-AY6WhzoaLlQ39dlABZa0OE88HBzXIkPfMiDVlGYXnnhoDTyQkVktzIB44VDcjy_OR8dQIakXHUqAacuC3kt3iMsI3WtyiuD-OY3LCf_Z89WpFF8Z_AMYWsYTbzDa_JA0fUDPo2ZwrifLIMz0qcoAJPfCvb7rhu507Fg=w800-h600-no)
I did a little countersink before reaming. I've found this makes it easier and I figure it wouldn't hurt as it needed some deburring anyway.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9V5_HEObKErXXExBALuomx-B0Olv4MBxNhMe-__ImY454QF2FuCnLlneomv45sqpDH1AgC9rdoLghy-QBkpeWLnPSONBBe1Zo30ZLLpxSgke1TUXiq0HAS-suvmLGVCX7vX2TlOIFWK9UI_1gd0BbjYJye5Mfs50uGYp1QBMazIMXwm62u6vua6LrUpsjnlWQsG832OULlaYxzpkvzzew216n2rweNpzmxvebmF4t1jRY3XNwRjr8cpFHaDuuzH9HykSnc0RDk523d35Uj6Dg60rj5UUJswPkEqV82elhRUQa_j_50inIn31jDq3-JjelaMh9227-IHwEkkZF1WUL78reg0PQGg1dPafbuEZ3DBU4nmAw8e6_SbMCvTQ834aKQy5Sm052aJQ9N_ZaWCpfoTz7WxsfifLZexIP7-gfb3gzC-8RjUAk1GCrE89y6kjMf6bRl3Kd--_tI1rdaeEBMEqtCLrIxztRIK6CGrYJyEjSK5HU47B9cP4w0JvXPMJF2y9FPPtaE3WDZN4RmTI7m9EisCRikg9PhfvCdEgIGN6w-TBLPy6Gnp8r0izqocb42sIB3jQ8X54NdSXzn4ECWU6mcgCX2vZT-LB6pGFi1D3RNyIPx9T1xIiiA=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NwGF-yk1T4lzs90l4HeY8r5IvcrKkwWlMgqSdL3b5ylz1PUuCsbe18tt1SsI3yCnjzUUlXdOSRhNxrhUFavmAJEV5td3WMbpT0_U3jAppTtya5n0xxplXfgZgMwFF1krGskibNOMTlc-qD5TJlTe8SMRYvHF-48YLU99tE12N0EAIZdHQ5W2YKhMMk7DlCHoRRDGoFU96JwbeMCwbsujis6-_vrC23cGIYA6FD_AZTC6GYHsHeyY1CA9OHsk8YmSeEpLZ-lGyQcVx20JagRn2WJD33Xr7tXHO-IB6QU3FQTbKWHZnl2uKo7GmTHWuqcqzS-ZFjKK_HLFr5wiVFr4JGT4PWHX-Yev6Bb0aIT1TOvXbZiPnzdptFbeGuGzOZi6xrFtRamu1jervDidJDbtxq22JAOFQfBg0MyqHtPQA-lc4fdJyRiuYCZM--CimFP8GdPnnWTWc8WP_XNtvRtfhIi_RQuV1Hm5AyyryD8vJDqBuEl903e8VWhxC_8LBLkVNcbO3079yutFcBaK9WJtyENQ2eR7KfZ0u1Ph6oxTiLqg9qn-GJGzC11jX3v3a8kjANYWS6kJVWn87X7tBr3PVlsa2EVndLQChHZn2J-soK93gtMSXL0D7u5fuA=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eSZl9oFH5vC9rE0r_Z7bcqn0pGNF78QWxl0ob7mCGrvSvAROy0ScvPcT4N6lliDKn-LZMz3mI9H9BdvRSJXZTokWwl3jy_ayG5s2Cs3GBG3YkKjUk6IMUbvxlhIj9jikB84PoXNvCeOMSqDl0MHKlkYWDvvlF-NYmZB_27W5LK1TbokHNpzjEFyE-fQGAMUYnstFce23zMlg94G_MTUvlISTj9bSE5SitopqN7WPszRQ3FQehU46RvyobgzONAXC9bPxVTa6HVbM9FHw52WAG9XPCn6EIgCBIjn_eST8zpJI69fx18mvJArgG0JR85rtZVoVBrqJJfYKxxwlULtI-CXq4i4mpqtKaSD-aybelRzO4mvGmU7AON71APXt8fRfYbq_N-zbi9YNPBCXtFwkePsJbgWymVn9NHfLKJ-EDaNZ8TBBzqZfUIbHa5SBDGunFEqLeVHRg-7BpSBp6zKzt_K68Aqnhuvrj7UKQxG2ULRKW2i_Il54o7QqO3smGyF3eVygiwj9r43BoSj39FaNqA_XQcBOYgvMFDRjodTnPl-jteQ40X7ecD7EjGnaSMY1duQnAh14oclUv77u_rWEzDs5UKPL8ZtHaMP1vWQ8GZD7b-nC0HbNh1RyeA=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uAtVnHe76_8R6kFdHHZ9AyvaVVdPWGIjlC_Iiq9bhmLoAtbvV7lsGS91YXzyqO9n6bG3f-0WDbRQtEXlcjLEjJSFycAZZbiUXB3f-F8fzEZx24BQ5Cd_7skk_rAIy3MaExf5ylsMHxNlUuPhK6S1zKLBAhgOBDpZYmjWbGgdymWGqGFhJe4Qf8NTtoJxPbRykKRylTTRN-1w2hstABwoeXAvPYlY3cG0r8rqrr4izIjZhf28Ko9cNvK6ygAJMgftaUTYSs9lDrkhtbvEAkMvXhk7WphdBDkfz6tFQdncJhqHr9n6-LYeVec9AhYmDNxoC6JnugWHBGefio750gDnUz7gRxo8W05n0Y6N9aJdVemLHxtGfo1X8y0XeFAAeDFANbzNL7iZA2odm_yE5bdG537kjim1xsgN4vHcvb-v0TWrO838ctASII9i96kYz2Cy6a0e-eoALieaph-FF0MUyNYtgtYHiHqIeBUmOfjLBLifdZuY8R6EbhBoOqWI-Zjt0qzm0UPutigAQ1tJWk60Jss1AeRiFWz87HrATXBPeNZskiIFEKXAQhbyo1LrSvgLqsJ_wZG2xKrCewU5axP9PPaDs2dTjpSVRMOY-W8evmqeeiKdI4uGSP-Xfw=w800-h600-no)
The plan suggested I align the holes perfectly with a pin and do one last trimming pass on the base to make sure they are perfectly aligned. This was an excuse for me to do simple turning on the lathe anyway. The pin came out nice and snug.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_YtPn6BxmgKLyOVUiwEk73bY_vpyQpC1iz_AYqv11P7xnQtja5a9zdqoQwjcgEypwrNkCd9yZRUCJ5uE1FOXULzk9kM7eoAxBLtqE9IgiyM8EGDCECUZjS5Z0w88Oa5WjAsBSBly4tetc7LQG-M5YgTZyHJSuMu2idfVg5X_0ZBhpe6vKhYm8qO7B1ubtUogk5u8pz4VvrvqJqp9RoLDvMHORKpkGKC-FUVWD2asoS76vmgdSVw8UsR-CXLmxO3757yMilHZR23YrZMpUzBdxBX18zvEvpC4dVm-XuZ-PzkrJcxgvdUK8WsK14OA1ypo6WSJp7nYBf_-f-v4nX94Adf6tfl8xY-WWRnYJGhbrb678zDk7xE5PWIVvIWApIHAIVSnm-ZIkhJwGyGdmeJGmae4Rp740GEDE-fqqqPDrbDaSBkgYUNdfIxmnIuPo39RaNOCC8CBLqz96UB2SiSdQqNuHXkQo41jcWqqNm2rSGctPz03Sk9Hp5P7YRXxB65ictEvOPcwxpjh8MvO3mVbUItQb9HDpk_fksYqS4w3rgsQfwbJ6m4s9uDKlQIg1cMf0jJ7CGnboLcx5HUHUdUniAazqVtaghbr1GGFHiwNLCdfSF061zCNCmU7dw=w800-h600-no)
Here's a closeup in case you spot something odd. The process seemed to work good.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jq14OmHMh6TzVYNDSdj9JEepDA0sAnpblj4O7o0LMBH211BPCA6iNMFow0Hn8IPC5_7ieDAN7A5i8C3TCV6z3s2sfB9wmX5kHq8ieMBYQAeUn2Ylz5gA4PbFs3B-KT4WsuOtd3UG7C6N1pVOYqROoO2x_tu5RKltJY1WcX9tHHCxeygtMkaTAPqeFIzcdHGlMay__0uSEm2guaufnE3Vb2tHs1_OB3ORunSnpz2o067MP2i2lvKktMFfHxYDnvsdzeBlAD4-IBFSc5NHG_LwYRgXkarzRj2ncABa271TBCL3-Eq_rgbtvA0xvSeudqc1CslLE5wdhKPIX0VDBIeaSI9bN_UauhuDXaomuypnV6wbt6x-TRaoCAi7neaCxbPofqHlq1Tz7TwBZweJUJzB36UDEeD5ONxc5wdhBu5fOXFzx39TmTQzFl0QASAw-_5SJ8CHkCeDmgq-umV2ZTXYR4lF_8pU_CbFr-BguVC3gYTi1PRfYtsnKU0wI7Umd7CDQ_f0VrUmLiHJm1-APGhBW7bKqgxsE0tfP7wi95GL1VVmky0vtVjEC-Q6ajFBIfcL7aHrKa8s0Q8WrhedFZqCF-MTrIsYhqbSzY8nqRfE2SsvovdEdDy-HAqGQA=w800-h600-no)
I'm a little bit further so I'll post more in a bit, but I figure this is enough for the first post on this one. Thanks for looking!
Todd
(Update: replace PB photos)
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That's a nice little engine Todd and one that is pretty well know as are many of his designs. You are off to a great start and I am sure it will help many seeing your build log. I will be following along myself.
Bill
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Todd I will be following along also. That was my first engine built in 2010 and it's a great engine to get started with. I have built two of Bill's engine. Enjoy it because your off to a great hobby. Looking forward to your progress and it looks like your have a great start.
:popcorn:
Don
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Hi Todd. Linking to pictures on other sites is fair game as we are not copying them :ThumbsUp:
I like the use of the dowel for alignment. Do you need to turn then on to their sides to give them a quick skim? Are you going to use a clamp on the end to turn. One trick I often use is to dab some superglue :naughty: between parts to give them that little extra encouragement to keep in line ;)
Jo
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Don, very cool to hear you've built this one! Now I know I can't get stuck :).
Jo, I avoided skimming the sides because there is lots of shaping yet to do. Only the last bit near the bottom (0.25 inch) remains at full width. This dimension is certainly not critical, but I decided to save as much material as I could. It would be interesting if skimming them would eliminate the need for paper in the vise.
In general I decided I should try to make all parts as exact as I can, even though many dimensions are clearly non-critical. That'll give me extra practice that I desperately need :). I don't have any formal training and only have books, the web, and this forum to get me through it. So far it's fun, and that's 100% of why I'm in it.
BTW, I should have mentioned that I have Little Machine Shop's HiTorque mini mill (part #3990) which, if I am following correctly, is a variation of the Seig X2. So far my only real complaint is the amount of backlash in the lead screws. I found some errata at the LMS web site on how to adjust this. Adjusting helped a lot, but it still has ~5 thousanths in both X and Y, and the backlash is often very hard to feel so it drives me nuts. Z is much worse and I've given up on it. I keep a dial indicator set vertically and use it for Z. You can see this in the background of the photos. That works incredibly well.
I also have a Harbor Freight 7x12 lathe (item #93799). That's had a zillion adjustments made to it, and I feel like I'm only 1/4 done setting it up :(. But the lathe and mill were cheap, so I can't complain much. I wasn't sure I would really get into this as a hobby when they were purchased, so I was very conservative. It actually took me a couple years before I got a real start. That's partly because tooling is the real cost. I know that now :).
Todd
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Everything you've done looks just fine but let me offer up another approach to think about and perhaps expand your horizons.
Finish the bottoms of the two standards and drill and tap them with the holes that will be used to secure them to the finished base. Now bolt them to a piece of sturdy scrap in such a way that they are right next to each other. Mill the sides to spec, cutting into the scrap piece if necessary.
Now you can drill the shaft hole and be sure that it will align in the finished model. In addition, the profiling on the sides will be identical on both pieces, not that that is critical.
As I said, I'm not suggesting that this is the way you should have done it. It's merely a different approach to stretch your thinking.
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Marv,
Thanks for the perspective. I'm a little ahead of the photos (will post more in a minute) and I just finished some of the shaping of the uprights. This idea would have helped me shape the pair together. They are common at the very bottom...but I suppose the plate would be partially in the way for that. I'll think about that considering I can cut into the scrap plate so long as enough material can hold it all together. It may have worked. And of course it would work for aligning the holes for the shaft.
Todd
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The tall upright has inlet on the left, exhaust on the right, and an interesting escape hole to the top. It's an oscillator, so it has holes halfway through on the flat side to form passages as the valve mechanism. The holes and the edges are tapped for fittings. The escape hole to the top connects to the inlet and goes to a little whistle that will make the "squeak" as it runs. I suppose it will squeak and use a little inlet air when the cylinder is exhausting.
Here's pics of drilling and tapping all those holes. Nothing exciting other than the "squeak" hole was mighty high up for my little mill. I was able to use a starter drill in my chuck, and then switched to a collet holding a #3 drill bit. I don't have a collet for that size, of course, so I wrapped the bit in paper and pushed my luck :(. Thankfully the starter drill took care of 90% of the hole otherwise I'm sure this would have failed. I didn't get pictures of this precarious operation but I was careful and slow and ready for a mess.
I am thinking that it might be handy to make maybe 5 "mini" collets of some size that fit into a 3/8" collet to hold a few of these bit sizes (#3, #21, etc). I've paged through Enco's catalog looking for something like it. It seems a waste to have full size ones for this, but that's certainly an option, too.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i0CbTjACY9N73-p4rV_khce6EjqSKcBpVXglxqflE3DmfkwCBnoIR_Btab41N0P1hXeFhzueUX_LIFCG9fdEgzJrMEXWMltxRid3BBRORsABCHTtq4AighncMCVPwUg2vWXVMd0PML_hZztLGLbRzZD2jlYgu6uuyc5AQqnbeqcMvYnJb6YiMH5DB801fe7MeMbYvMivqLKxwhT8J99mNe1Ppnzy6giWcYF2eyYX73Xm8nEWGYh8acXCxKYSCf6HQwyiwS4-5KBpvTYkAEF5_OIvMuZJS5L61qBf5ufb503OoSkuU3m3feXgghQO-9BvKU5uzSUHOxejWDwJ9kgXHjkum4mwpQljiaUNV-L8fuSjRMcvmFjIrLN5VzVNUkjBXvB5EOxmIE6dFBGWCCcgEnmjkKuLgLH7bXWl_K4we6aFg08wupOmHItu5RlT4tec7mW8DiTQXFyKk-OGTSgzKAQbL9TWSt4XYTbdVFrgUI1oKEBhD2SWhcpvvz3kG7PTi5nvCEHZRGyVgG_JsWzM-ZE8Njy76aCxpxYgnIOz4X8-Iz3BYQyrDI3aSJz3qrERPOhWPDEPcoAYks6yAme2LfkiWipo0WJs70cRFFC47l4hHYLWZqWklZhX7w=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z1rDzf__mCTkb5UpK3rfu7a9UzgHEdYTCT7YoYz_C4qn_UsyuYKTq_-SBxwmjhInbawAsFgUquiSkBpe9oNRKNoKhoouuAsuZZuO4cI4H8utJqGN1Os51i6edqiU0OPr7T9PJk6_vpdL65mb4m8kmYfxFQTbh1ddATiEA7kjITpjrC_FX88V0CVvIgDDuWQuOekMQKQjCizP0jdk7Qwyg63UDerFsPtJpv7CvCiVeT9-yv4ODY2p7_Juw9KlvFWS7m-Ionq0aveaFl4INW3bHWnHsYai4jVISb-0F4Mv0SH-v5115wyBIsq9OqqGAqF7CV65H-v9uFbshIB4nEJVNsr67i3bjvE2_v2loEoPLd0FUQrBWarQ_pfMcpkPG-P-o0XOhh-hRIjo45uGJoKnpJjFZIbv4n2WrMB0KkuEXfbZ_rAprR6DztpXFQscORn7IfdRL0YjyApnUlil5RRfB0VvJLcXlbJ7HiLAn64NQWuyzXYoMzrV0e9MKGrXCX6Nd126Cj_bOgNKH24PRG9SmQojVQnMDH6OqMCIcmunReNPK9G5gt5ZXTy5et_75NK2bTvnijeyOcfWAT2KQy-hPxqeY5g8buvtCXhkB6oxRe3jZqTpkuhgyJ-ZXw=w800-h600-no)
On the inlet side I tested a little air fitting from Little Machine Shop. I made a 10-32 thread instead of 1/4-28 for this one.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/giomR0o-OikCPbm6_EzCkBtTc6ghklIf4HMjFUsAFBghPGv8zmY56TBG7vBJnnmVVe4ISbq_03ltrWWwjNWsn5CWxfxaVC2UKdd2KMSk800WfL7zILBo17ELsvWZVNKnhzEZUzH2ZL61biUoJgwF7YwulyGwv4C5pohDufkR5dsjszmAoU-zUSezpfI1viWNrEEuuuqa9QIZEHq6OjXsgIIUj-PEpILvpFJPJMha8XX6keouIRk8KjyAVhQv8ghpbrAmjC9UAKFuYpmwAtP_e_iLXMGar1Ka7VTepUPd4jVl0gIq08EBbphvYACqdKOqhqOD37mVCK_G6NAkQSRsdIR955TvhZQWiYzAvoqxSGZ_lxjfY2pQaSfS-KQhpRgiXbLf3L-5W99C09JRWmpNmkvHN-cQLs0Aphy-xbarVzVutb6XwRE-l2JsiUgVPgPKmsihb5cIsNlBoOabXaClumbsoq0-700LL7LJL7-o5g7mhzXUNAa03lX5R1kByFSBS8XiPPyZJZYJcCw3qmjMs7pcX1SFlxsWTPx1uvawAuIC9uP2MuFYwSkLX2E8IAQV7W4Dy9zbNABLdIBsWSduIt-Hogvh3cNn5-A95KadOBQ3t6fDX5COFZlW-g=w800-h600-no)
Here are the holes that form the valve mechanism for the oscillator. They only go deep enough to join the passages I already drilled. You can see here that I'm using my dial indicator to get the depth right. I don't trust the micro-adjust on my mill.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h4VIEdnZVZ_oSvovKY7Cp5xHCkrytlnpvIU3dZRlY7cKQabTezXd31avn_3gEpJYEryA3xDV3fD1VjmEKKFhKQUuWdAfBMXiDdo3rdtsOyK1nNZVhX1rLRy9zCQmBA9DwyU9S6avhXMomz-Z3eQO-J4OXa7U3agUg9h3pmdn0TJdhJ5-QqQVmTSPdG7ctTLK30Ens_Gx7_b4IQcKuRGwjKxVg0ktpNB9GuNPFQ_MxHeDLTlHeq4Ntjs0vDf54g_pQd6qVhzBDlgQe7ysMTp9YYKT1w1uE7IgIL60kDDcH2Ho5im4mVmuecQlfBzSysapGowC10jn5OX6-7n7701yasAQ9l-S9sv3cbbvCPcqmDWqgYjJNI7O0Z4ynJTW2jmwauNhQ9nof56ytncsqtbJWdc47yw1X-jqeyc5X4vMuXTW6j_RoDZi-G6tBqjHVIQVhEaXLEPbKkdjm5D2w3Pj6H-vXQanaFw54zECuxbgxRcLrKxue5MmbBTQCNniaPW0gIQMLGyJGIyRmbXiKoG1NRspTOgdn68Y8sUf2wjJJxIPK9130u9xDXJ-h3vu5bTdDOw2R6u0ikH4E4JDJOMkPy7gllkvloCvZv2Dl_O-LigraR40F2kNsVsn0A=w800-h600-no)
Finally I drilled/tapped holes for mounting to a base plate. Like Marv suggested, I could have made these early on and used for holding the parts temporarily together.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0M8EPKpDmeG1cr-Oc5WVcDYYj4caI5Q_q8WZxT5qle4m1lvJdmW3DnZw_O3H52ICrBKTIkGVVtu4pEYCjcu3d6s-kzxUXVg09M-3hRoflvqdPm5J99QJ2wjzXXUxGYyNlT5NOoanx1mG7BgIWS2ltXiMXa6vTu-1rVYT9V443wEalbeDkHMTdjYKn5zzETyGxr_Nh8fJIBlMfhQ8GT2uLLTyk1Jgktd8cbj8mCu_Aw7uniLf6R2JxENxgEtW3XcT_B8lVci-H5BPTHmo-UfTjdsOjfMGE25_JFUTjUXlBueKnpKuTPRE6zf-bt2Rr4m74V7MEOQPmPWYgNkMtkgtt9I1rQilWpmU581u7TsyjiBin3BWH3rMzUEa9Qjd9SxzubfkDwxjeISn6dyHjmq0YGTQ7mOTUW1E7Z5dYxOCYCZ-uhltKnKLeJcOtdrQ9vK7sR8mUXvgZU_E7bctnZNmpEJncaf_dlIDkKJYpPX488OOBfqHm1P2DUFWywGn-ssFVx55nih7NIun0ma1hu_1gXF-vHZw9xYBu0CAuBDeQVO1Sv0L01BFAi3gIwu-TZOT7FJMsophgZkq9mOZNsulO1fk2gYh26_qaYyu8sYN2L5qPNwRWtEEovnAmw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qycan9dazpUJhpmrXGsk2X72plXO_Q4l8ryLu6VtzyZo5fAAOCM0y-Xr4ZQCB2QTk87utEfjGQBrFf50605TUcsKgWHQMd9exTFPk_eCjyvTjkN4HNScWQoSDCPAdRitskKba1xQOsJ62FI1fLOTFWgn7cidcV1v3SwURN59rJZtuyBQgZP-oz3x25xu0iAlQqOyOWT0LrGyTobN-xAhh8vOspuKN84aMCdTkJSxo2zSVMGHOTXMXaDEAGz2y_27DenO4sF8SylqZL2ofiljQABgGt7Is-pA-Cjepnu7ykh3Gp5N6sSCtCNq2cV0PSrqyUgHXMNqGp3_H7ocLOyshvXgEzA1-tb068ZYpPxFOMRqtASWGjCSXldW9sdARf4NIhRhFHd4xvPKQsQeMxhzc-iycS3mkves21FJUkk25QWWfSa_DelS3SgsBcjM3L3Ucskr8Rojfpm6RPmMFtf_bQdLEbE0PWb2v6wvqw4dVdjmmZslZ2YLOQHz1egFyjhoRCNQ2r3y_zPRRbpUpGaaBae8RTfBgq_vf9dRWeXDAbnV_BKoSzoqly-6bmk2AzZdZrvffLtwxay98LNkuBTBIKAqeABMqJbS0K_mLH2XSMTPqfe17ny9GEq9Iw=w800-h600-no)
There we go...the two uprights. But they are not done yet! The plan provides options for making them simple or fancy. I could leave as-is, or I could trim the corners with 45 degree angles. Or I could get fancy. I'm taking the fancy route. I already got a good start on that, so I'll post those pictures in a bit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QJSh0WR_mVPF3AO1V376v23Kc5TfXTmz05cLVb14B25MSHMXeEBE8xmA1IfuXSr-R0QaVM2Y_0_t6UBDD_tjEUrl6uhJibmQs2OdmgnflAp7DWlibVvR4Pb1zIEnQf4YHSZ3SACHllbu8OJQ5rlqz41d5qlfsp-VEYrDqDe6NnVNBi0mHuOG2WSE5Y3ycbki_7gZykXlaWv4dPbx3F9WzvmuCFR33LLJcR80hRz3H_arxsEnKPJo82bzDG-1mEF5txb7BdBfEDaBRnV6fHKve6E5TGYZcVOhZfd_kp4HM3YBE5AaYqRwAyBkMHZuoNKL0H6__CoROhrF3ctQtxF3R7hW9BTxAummHfeSaIDz4G_WH5nC62SA3NWO0Kn1w-6sD8_vgDMY-7O3OiRNeJMd7hpVAIwmh6SmKprhnMjwig6Xv4XShPeGqRoLkpBpzCtQDmnQnsfe1ZCCERRYmMNMqCNs-jRMrTaSAybOOl6N6j9fD8PX0dTGz4mrmAs42m24kVsBIqdID7t3pb_CcdufhH9gDRvzHTTTYYhxIawKFM_jq96MGUgWVUihvcxYRWgTQuZA-zfdIUNFvkh5oaQiqiswzaLf1Flr3crE6dFMCaqWS3-lYa_Mv1vvfg=w800-h600-no)
Thanks for following along!
Todd
(Update: replace PB photos)
-
I'm presuming you "wrapped the bit in paper and pushed my luck" because you didn't have enough head room on your mill to use the drill chuck. Not only is that a good way to be inaccurate, it could become dangerous in a hurry. Try this...
Make a flanged bushing that fits into one of your existing collets. The flange prevents it from sliding completely into the collet. Drill this out on the lathe with the drill you wish to hold. Using a slitting saw in your mill, put three equally spaced slots into the bushing so the collet can clamp it closed on the drill. Debur and mark the size on it. When done using it, throw it into a box in your tool chest along with others for the drill sizes you use most often.
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Marv,
Cool...that's exactly what I was thinking I'd try to make. I was indeed very worried that I'd end up with drill bit pieces all over the place. I really only opened up the hole a bit, but I was thinking it was mighty stupid when I was in the middle of drilling like that.
I also could have slid the vise aside and clamped the upright vertically to the X table to get the clearance I needed. That would probably have been the right thing to do until I had proper tools made.
Todd
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... I was thinking it was mighty stupid when I was in the middle of drilling like that.
Most of us have learned to stop immediately when we get that sort of nagging feeling about a setup or something we're doing. It's your brain trying to protect you from harm. Learn to not ignore such signals because the consequences of doing so can often be painful.
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Fancy Uprights
As I mentioned before, the next step is to make the uprights "fancy." The plan showed some angles, all of which are (thankfully) 45 degrees. None of these were marked, but the plan was created as full scale, so I did some measuring and gave them specific positions. I used dye on the uprights and made lots of criss-cross marks to show where these really start and end. I wasn't surprised to find most were on nice round boundaries (e.g. 1 inch), so I think I got it right. It's all for looks, so none of these really matter.
Here's a photo of my layout work. It wasn't as messy as it looks. You can see some plan in the background for an idea what I'm about to carve up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Np_mUCPp84hmcKf0d_fftTd5SseT_gHDZ_vNZCzJ1p8GnDd8lAc0LoYK2u53BRWTOAwBgHP6n8eSUFz6dFOuIj0rRPGeLUYEnCiS99fninQ06Jkq895GqtlHbUKnyzHJ-6acj1sc7iC2divp8QLYPrPyfzdWbAHUNo1fJPExo50xZyDwIMZGjAQL2oe-kFZ0AmZrhEuCcFb3R-Iv-9P7xjoA66EzsG-B0UrWZi7zVKSr264hUiTEwZ0LQTEkezM4uWW0usCgVHirsOx1XuPzCAsU1EmoENsxrkd981i5I5tzAYb7ya3rT-RJ6y95qBI6RW1RrdLG_7vc-SLtXEx0F1SAQ1HQQu0dFf5eIWGxezfuULwNwtUrSmMiJvl-aF0k5-Zte0ruAd33NPy768hdebEfvG4fUBrWoQW4t_SL9PkMs7VtBXr7yRd4dgb5ekVKhOABE3idnqYHIwgocI-FJzVIz2h3GEop0tpv_VkHZGI7uJtoh0HCJXNxeqY9oTi-HKp_SFeKONZHXxfdAcN8axN6sULi2WgLQcY-4EQ-cavvDF61vrP1Js3uh809LaHiEMluvakwoeVnEb0wLpQJhSXyfLPjAi7wy7B3DnbFbpj4EHkZpJOMfgeCfA=w800-h600-no)
I started with the small upright and hogged out the majority of the space in at the bottom with a larger end mill, then switched to my smallest end mill (3/16th inch) and squared up the insides. The other cuts are 45 degree angles. I found a better way to do this with the tall upright, btw.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lUxf1XilKPLZE3ICMKmTbeTZ1xzuSwePKYxtuu9PMhUG2EhfOLo18c01pWlToGZB1BaJofEyjhNUQ0M5oHMxvNnvXqH5umIbDH6Z-PhMK6Rhonbjbi13IPsFMHS4DxCN9DJDzRbWoV2zFzO8qsat2SEZVZ5atW-Lbn9XE2ro3a_GSgItN7XU0TMwxMEJkFgCf1Gvma-fK5ZZ7hOfXmJ9L4C_MvcJTz89g0PSJBt5NGT9cSn5XCl66qT0507OpMBbGWZf0TjoK4axCsEG2qFoW_48Y2gP9J8AqV5EApLpUbEK48NGfnlmtY3-rd1x7OvmN3ti4-1XNeZ2ui3BNvNqEXafDtI29HU6Q_IzEWta7feTT3XdvYg1SaDuwTxpIkRtWPi0CdNrqPCS_SmNORCsiDjiygQ_QLI9YNlxlGc_qfF7BsRAx0YjSnFW4JQBB-2m8uVQ3A6gipT2ybNR_ZNPR9ozt9y92AhY5Lu2pLecbYJhV40UV_XS6SBO78aIe2G6q6dahpmglhL7GucPD_POjWjoSVCobxchFsZSmShEGlb4Byox1xf9AXmpj-geb5SfTUxbrSiycnZ2vMaxMCNrLJQYwZ-4wI0hFjgSAqrNrWA5n4nfUjCWwTmsdg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/umFIzqtheg6SpH28brZomZKDBz9o0OFdfFzNYd87g1dg_zoumpDLAkMgFMlz6TzOe5WIrXezNnx_m8UhZs_kjNYwfVKEORu32AB0eyghJh7Fp5x5mNvlLvI-9SKFFpXndt8aKQo4zrZIjtBGCIcHmlPc3kZ-e3CW0uBLK6-F2lhuYi5gALp5X-wEp60JU7Kpcg4NTufCZ9N-0L8UiVo_Y8pwtjAr-F9w11sWDWVlKqVhXW6XNC7oSDzOduK4nvmpRelA61xmhMkDLJ04efiGf8xKl0FHjV3hIz9UMmwF6-Ncjk_zxNDuo_cmfOCe7V2mrmW6MX4B8MCqkoGc7vmDw1nv69ToZeSxnSThSH_ZpBOtWJ4Ywc5AAe_XVNtTNVaqlLbKooqLkQtEV6FxcLoldDgeR94JXjJxm2yoyaLDJjxCBGExXGHJKAzLo6UP0ZOdmh3TO7ISdx9MnCZUXFpW1akdeBA4M9hhMVz_Uj7WVTzlZG5ys68hNDqWFb0KComIi7PcalZwlXSnziJ4fMZgNxZw75Q8qUqBrP8F9sykjj48-nFyQ0Wk7IieCo_OQay8Fc-bVxCRJ7gY38oacSAtbNHaP1l1_s2kHVcBvDOX0REQNfNoLMhJ_ZLqUw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y1i4k7ocQqfFSgclE3E94IfvxB2Fu-fH-0s9ezU8R2mPEZ5-lXJDQIGOBfXLv6WiJ8sS_vGO5c8uhbEKZxMswEu3A0pREnOcWNAzWB1gVtx8ZpDSf4GmeccGYu7REIF_TCsNkL5bT-_we14XKdc4o2WHtZQoyg6fJGgV4nY95xoFTll21bnXKUgN5hd2YB6IFC79K-hUyznjF6Wz5WzhgOEbzZNAgF2GsRub47e9FZsSm3z0oCsi8UXrN87PGuz6QDsWRXAfwjAvc0M6N8AyYtYCGKYt_87q7cJL_x265dIAWZiDyxhyHAD7LP1Ym4KZmZomnGJv0GHVEa5ok3Pj1VVLj6CrompqbYtB_bY3edZCifcTj4ho0FJumLSsrT6F0I8wyJrO_OnmLUI3Fhp0etxVf0lK1-1-ACTdzuIJpNc7_S1CcGVDRxDwTk8N8A5eabHUB80njXeRN6hWLzlTDCcFieKWjLV57KbtLNaFU_xKaYx1Hv58PoTgWvuKEiNbONaMKshoVlAkF7kPJPhQthEGy3plEJTkqcu2cBbPzRHu86v2sPstaY81pIk-oQkaZLHq99Fp-Jcf9Y9nyxW7j-L2IRJGa458ExoYzRrI1pFb5F72iloLBB86eA=w800-h600-no)
Next I needed to setup for the 45 degree angles. I have never done this before so I needed to get creative in setting the vise at 45 degrees. Remember I am trying to artificially use more precision than I need for practice. Here is the crazy setup I came up with. The 1-2-3 block can be squared and this will set the vise at 45. I was worried about the clamp, but it held it plenty firm enough. I couldn't flex it without significant pressure and the dial test indicator didn't push enough to cause trouble. The toughest part was finding the base for my vise! Seriously, I had never used it before :) I also had never mounted the dial test indicator this way before. I was scratching my head and realized it had a dovetail on the front. Cool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8g1NgceXS1zwchBdQViH1KFmxIug30fP94s77l01ckOuC4VOa3IRwEt1Wt0Gfb25C4eBC8DwL2U0kf3so-c7f_UWz1NAbABeHw0INIgrPmtbbSwV0k4gozTxepxd1gObVJ3VhwOW80-CKIGelfN5BgF_w5KfdOAQpf800MDFxqnxi99hcIeIBSP5fiw7POo6IT9224OT9OMncPlbfBXzrE8DRqClgao_siNzUDx47UHznwaU_zlI--88tO86aYID63m6ySnNIXQ0DP79PXNAgFSyBNTWBQIiOm-ZXdJEO8MTMNTqB4mGywZxoN0jJd2EdGxoYToakIhGVgbaTHwmaAas_tfEPFdzGNRhTwDQ6FQz3G9CcktrmJdH6bUCoxIk3Ly4cN5c-oKum6lQIAxF3LHzNtFt1rUNh0xp_l4UyFAN0AL2v1WSGBQ2y7G9XSd90vGxlolAA6CpiexHbnaeTnLvIJNOhcfh-mc7rWLrh6HkPnJyGjsQkiE-MGD9Fn84BiTyoHP1_m0wKPSn0pMQvRb-W6U7amEUTvbzuL7AQulOtc--QgnAKJMN-BS4XYMFm30vS4WLoYSBpJLGqZAjPFnLBhv7ZWUHAFbUoy0wlMzBq24xOITsCcJYBg=w800-h600-no)
I initially picked a starting point by touching the point of my edge finder to the corner of the upright. Later I realized, duh, that I could use the center of the pin I made for the holes. I spent a bunch of time doing the math to figure out how to move to the right starting position. This involved a lot of multiplying or dividing by square-root-of-2. But remember I mounted the work at 45 degrees, so the cuts were straight down X or Y.
Here's photos of cutting out the base. I found the 3/16" end mill would flex, but later I found my Z gib had play that needed to be tightened out. This was the main cause of the wavy finish and meant more filing than I would like...but it did eventually clean up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JPIc0orPxD4mBJsrI3Z4b-TYKBWs6P2GqPrzWJkm-U55zAWIUjRvKHhy5cGjRm8gMPFu2f40K3T7MdT6n9OBi9qgRkBKfbkKoxkaSLiqC27YVHub2KytDeVa_qe-L-z3tZTnj8-7geBkLlIdVWdNQDPxURupb1w4X0KBjUw9qOlNrQaNHeBrkZz0TT-tG_YDwEtYWQnsVDGnIFwBKshVWn9GP3te5DNwMaezmPm6nWFecxqeq7VTc4xFT22xHjUtXB4vLC3xYHJg2fr27ru6h0CzvuLepQ5nxOPt58dv_Bb3gVVQ4cntiTqJ6Lv7cduqiNlxh6rwu_7rx7RGyis6M1e_0Ozm2UjiiwYMtts9tbCK9QtYRSNGG2z4teFFjyUqseCDiSdG9DesdnmknoBy5FNpaxKF4At0w2Xz8a5jLRhoUKMO6ERf19iXv4x4rI4eYyeSwimMonLhQqJwy0hL5kOvb4dnzaY_JteX8rbT4tq1LTWfXopLKOIA2Jy7jmT32YMqBKVBwtUi_XcA3o8wT7bNbBlbpG5vDm1j6YVL48uub05vcrVXAgmybTKm0EvfIvtoK2jL7eFLW6reGQWDIEMcy6uz4AbkuC6DILD3IOLCgnMg3xKOaRDXRg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EZg77Otypa5u8oJ9gCyskkdXav6hoYIhgLBXn4etm0Hv8VirLEstJ_nVtfc5qWKWl1aFuXJS5PLadLdEOWdYwn0cZgD84rDdHGR-mr2o0gHr9ggsQu75xshPhVtiFl-kbINM6vVgS2ffH2fasX-2zM5Mwzf98ntOpZXTrEHyI6E0-nJHCU60bTlITQRh6Gss90dnnH4cHtNpwgOUlC2mmxHrbnH1YskgFfx34jGv1fBpp-_o1lM_NqDFS95gu_81wWfsRLU7k6RtkUrnXfjVYyLpqGjfYufWcix-k4IGBvcKw7ZYlC85Sn_Ce45xkMOAO6KJnNd3aTtIkrcxE_NFPwezditexwZZp6iMklaJS9P9CbDx0Sl9kd8U3iNyVzA51pBpyz7hkLypnV_My1xiXQyec2JJV14zxxcvsEXbOrpyLuE6y4o-6_H1z9CH0NJhXk9pNhuQ-xnbOrTNngUV-t_LAcAVEuri3KU3awnbbjD5RUrxxACnpxzxKpkZKR5cAxjDur5NrFk_8n8RF5xlVY9wqhq2hwYayMBTVucR0-xNBBgGzNyTltGiFR-7XW9xdDZu3X5H8y38AVTapDi5uAmpN6U8wU0E0JFScQB2oQw636MOK8iKLlXXCQ=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tVC8db_jK4bFtldYd6dzrri4PF54QLBZ3y6VDg1zKf2tUdxgTCf8t-qTvmI9AClszUnUwlzVnNVakRWl3qRq1Q788vFIZBz0crLk2xU87kaTQ0syI0PZn6-ejbczrCdMAGwyFGE2LDYX1Dh93OULoz9GGb84EpZrvpHQ7BhcEqS2ZrgQ2Cn525KObIXWcnpAAiPdgD2XNXiIkgMQRBBtryVRwIr7Rb8_nWNbj7doNY2ftovrZnHtZNmWXU-CLtZ5UqnqvuFUtWhCYfzmnrhOsqnf1h6QqDKp7zLhOv-V1lrZunKDhXbG5NxcCCtEyoA-Bwt3Pet0tix3w5GtG_2EM_0WMuyHhsXXaQEGafbZeaXfhska2TGsGSqWhNtWMsPyiJHhg29ZnSI6A0bRpDx9eoWEXFZCsC68MD0eEOuJvxbRqsd5Y8hqAsVJHwLwJZG2DLNjePUwY5opr4Xm3mSrPHl6BlUsOszYbdWMCaMEfXpqfyLWfkddMIcBKIjN5TztfZUbVwMsI_7hrInBm2hBRpYgqxtYR5XRzagqnnoVg0_HbAAMuV5b1WIQAy3yzbjZIBhgj5W2NnYKGL9X5IqP0zYl9vvdhhw8J3-Dv1p5W42G1JGsG3qCFuw7cw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4nxKhRJ-s7Cfi24N1VHOmVGmzGe6IdZ5K9q2mOSdL22vrt2GNnMIMj_-BH-FuOVg6WVzu7baA2FlWIHAHHxI-mFQ7ZxkWvBdqB8gtKfb4vl4o8sBIKrdhZ3UfRSMwaDbEt1IV96O1aP4LlpUsGLcU5_5ap6f2-njcDxfmChfYAgCKFuhCIdoJkmwZoaanH-0-U1tLAEyc1zvYVEYxaE46MF9MONDHl6GOKHTdPKutcW2RQVQb1sU2mYgIjlqC5h6ObEEpRNZZG9L7AfNrtPhKyrilAQv_nzyjm7ccA1sjCc89ZFASj-znB869B0cnVFbQT3aL_tGAE4hBMUxUOJXLA_LFbIXHUrfGh_Sw3dFa00bM9mPWkJG86zsfLg96nT9lTlXrw13cD2wgJ4i5n7HK18d7u_jvFhZ26iH1usBTw3GPes7U43aOY_V2Ghzg8VF9yl5R1JlE6JRbXvCihlOQxOfMYyKL3ymYsjR6md7ThRMDg9XM_Xal2k7BwWsXFtXych2z9skwCpZaEz-qETsY66oF0oOwCf2rBlsQ7zRWC53RuhDxYGurtAA1Y_lZl1AaL-woeW_dC7UV50canRqQJteayARZI_3fSBuqtsih06HxaBZIjDUecY54Q=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RboCpka06Q8AMHixt9q_6IBzT-H90lU2SnVufvTlcUzsvLCC1ZzLNMzz8TNltrz8OFzcbHQMA54nPRWl8_ZPqGqljuTDfnA64xaorLwyFL9wBgl64tEU3G6RxfjGk1key_NoZKKSSBHetOkH_kbici5hcKGYbA3pMt5qc-FY-wjHdtPzOsSj8uUCaL6fsgScqoksm9M2IG4stAsScpVwghYoi1ZsrYCq1kBX9UuYPjofPEH4_xz0wyvDTPLS8HJRCXsRGPlf2XGLBB6ECawPAEdtY99zZGv9QZ5nyTvHrxj4gBjUEjIszUANZ3XbV_CyXAmRBTJWlf9hAEtgqW_AIKXojRv4E1Cs2kssAVX0u6ZaA5Bd2Z6ZfUVvBaOFoZPSppHIdJwogb3Lf9THiz8RX4LcRD-NXV4k1w4RdOn7lYVGAE5t4u3gk4pid5FS7_wUv1p5hjS71-U9A53d5apVwMJcbVfLOR5gfkMOVJ836VRHE2_sxIqSsOUc6-C6LE7VsnY8IdfCjJ7Cfygk25FWQRPCRTXpfRWOlCBRDbK8W0oNkZ9qz4MigRhHySURl8-AUNPOqCwIYucrYNGHmqTYR-WN48nQoldlkTwYZFYMY0F8Tq97pdvtAmFjOg=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g-4rjnwwawNlZVNW2bWYEQp_VAsKLir_mYJATZ-VFPrgd18Yy5DTe5WEoTEesb5JKFIcGOYDHIF6not3KiM0LDeYBzzMOOaIMaUBtS0kbdajpDSBcdAuLJ_YQ-NplPhTykSNLGBsuU4jOrSzBc-eMAw7M1zAbPB9O56g32STZvarizAjiwhc3dQ_n9T5gxCHoGVQhpdXzyO7pWzed6gNX8hviTVBmhikrnzLhKst8NQTJMMJ8SFg-tF-YqFa0Uck0-BIFpNEG4_kgxArghDifmrJmABwe9zqImgSylxoq9sHe5pDvB2MXdTWoZLHQBJjRBftQ_Zyjkoz4rdFjghE7buL94kOxVOD2fXAH0H---dzHiRWYh2s2UngNM3RH2T8I1-tpJwlsmCwAaTtWDKv0U554yhmQV8pAwMsZI_ptjJJyxRyLIgn5fCni65sX2ZQ-_jYJWba8abUc7_YVx5Pykw8Wl2poUuBegCe521v4-uM7Wz61M75dOrOsWGL4tC0466z7-Vve2LLGjhqvBs1qh1jYJ6RwdGNXzfJmk8aMbs7I78oAAVl2AcgiYx0H4ITfu_Nkk7i5Cin9Bf2IgoK9d_3A2rigC9auXjgYxJrNxFTmuJSkkG0RUoZaw=w800-h600-no)
Here's the small upright with all the 45 degree angles cut. I thought it best to make slots so there would be plenty of straight material to hold the part while cutting. Later I will place it on edge and do the final straight cuts.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4UxwF3UocMxoTm6KCtgFO3qwH8tnr1mU28InZYbzvQh5KDy8M0bsQ-MzRFACbZL-k-6sTMFZ4jNQfeCDo1bQPJ5X8QiQg_Tdbkuzv1A4puHamj64Neu3Du1kSio9GSFlxFstJlxEundyC7cmepEs-OHWVQp9Te3E0bZPlwXFJLS_p4KC9x-YCG4n4gjLFBIxi4H4m38IvyemFdZO17WxJwNbL8UAdHGLcIDlcUhV-AxQKtK6wsrhRakqsjn3nbkKOUkzIAAbcg0gwdTLDx9YPw5SQoegwCcChVD_7SM7JTbRX6Tsfma8La4NyM1KjZwZav0QeVNvPbAZ6RrgfWTY02mNnakuR1m1yghZZJo8Qklf051MGbEAptI44Z-dvp_ptAvCQ8OZ2dOOIkC9QajCroUl7esPLA2RDM7i2fiFL0NJvS2bRTJ6v1bLRGOIu2tG_mPpZ9LXiFzD3FMZaXOKvrfr7xKQAdyhHE2CGaR0lNIB4DaUJHCNbPmRHIUUKvLTLvuK8-ahDyQht90V9DBp57OzNSfzKl76HI5xe3tG0v_F12y3B2YVOMedFkHCWafCxGJtP5hgEpbjecl3q5vvB1HjZVfadjA70goSUXO5EvHeTf-eqnRltRVTJQ=w800-h600-no)
Next is the tall upright. It's pretty much the same operations, but I have exciting photos that I'm sure you can't wait to see....
Todd
(Update: replace PB photos)
-
Coming together nicely Todd and your making good progress. I chose to make mine round on the bottom and top. ..................... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
-
Fancy Tall Upright
Here is the tall upright which is similar to the short one, but with a few extra cuts. I was getting better at it by this point :).
I got my bearings with the center of the shaft using the alignment pin I made earlier.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hGS1TsWi7RZyUcwDiYrmuNcnXvJsa57b5nAIAzuAYrWxW12gXLDGRIM6ZT45BbGEBDBXEfZzwyQHattys9E9w8N3fDIbMuR1FPfLA08hUiWzEAOFU7dc7vZSrElbg2xdN0nmYRD6rsnoccScV7HDZmYJ26FSw4BaL7ZxC2RX61aIqIpFv2tX628Yxlh3-Ih6HEwffzS-w3dv5QEw37vynJfv_70zl8MUS1fUy2RzLf06_7vsxm3ZMwtvoMGY59C0m-GTWpEcfMJ4koES_XQskGnT0aNQU_2ugv2Toshe53cW9bpw_HjE6M0Vgnq-jjQU_vgAWOYZrkuT7eKc_oP-GDjPVkqA9LbhLFZQ8JcEeQmQo6NV0oKRgDZA0zslY54H6OauaBATvj95l4jp_AgwnxumrcsSWxOFnEUjyFiPEhoNascWTroyw0h-t6U0YCtY5Xy5jQKvcQrHWyn50Rqz74774UVPVyPxrf_zYathNJ6277s8m2RFniNhlhv799hZZigr5pS5pWRLayBeOTl1BaR5gJydbfOh0oakcpL341btQbe1MG5M2RlKWcOXMeNfIwUBZjSq2BS2Dg0PeFZjrMcVXXeJRjFAynRvMoNyNaJWpHb790ANMmyuHA=w800-h600-no)
Then it was a matter of locating. In this picture I had first calculated my X,Y to the point that just up and to the right of the end mill. Remember that my vice is mounted at 45 degrees so the sloped lines are really along the X axis. I was using a 3/16" end mill, so I had to slide it that far to the left.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LDeKaeNZ9LgUdCfT3G6XhFxU4X2he1gj97gNECqiYD6bS0qACqCqnubQ-aiXitWAJbfwq1D8VS4cZx7ObNijzvZ16z7bU-F8hEoM0egBmLyv97WL_587AVmNJdmxDV_jiio-4pD8nos4t2KJ5O3NlhHBvGemblFssrBeNs2eKq8KXoENqvhQe12fnxblb8dQcbUwIycO87OLr_9rNpJ07jdrfWHwRwvmd_4O-zKApownbi0srGK8cfSStuQpYqkXtp62hAiiK2n3xxnYHng3s-GlIzpUzfWrLGM-JSKDotHRofky-CC2QWqnEscrsuJzkzVHCHoN1ks0qFzppTexJgF2tIHz7XBOtdzBZY_BuEktlAoUNUSjUjVlhHgjAFYkWmSXZsXAlcAkCUGg_S6Zx7jXKVG0wWIhPTi0Inp1sfkMgM3D0-yNW1532gopsajB_uJhGqKE37IqU-PSIz0xfn-YIaiVnBQ9jTWMLgm6BzJS7atZESpZfn3PVNAifviulm3JSrOO70YUSLYBbVA3QQ710qSGTqxx3XWNlIJFDrE0VGvAamNmW2y3yAHzoDc46ab4FX9zH0D8jgDk2kEU0L4XbP5W4LCTekUTL9lCpzrybx0uqB6f3Av6qA=w800-h600-no)
Then I plunged in via Y, turned left via X, pulled back via Y and finished out to the right via X.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rWjYmADNTslbWmtYixIwh8su4DR7R4YsvMcjM0DjYnBtYYb1slZvIG8wzeoN2XFjOta7fh3b7ZzXy45vulZNtX_pcsIbvSxJTPIZ9gE5Co2qND5UKNtcS9CcLsFYnc1zopvx-xGxMJWmBZHPUOV2Crmt6Nvs5v0BPB6VgR9VqSQUwK2FRiolRMktXKgOEMlUBFK8X_5AG3IYzn8fQ_FzrzGjWHLvHyFq0kJasE_bDzchUySphWtny49z40UtVyaq8vcWjn8j77ytTKkLxvU_JSCzxbS4JiPVoI_UQwbQtsItfZhxjspJgxKNPkuhg-AEaqaxtAhcU__d1A6Ud2-mNwznQE9rdsiVa457j4RSr2gon3fx7Rv1IrvlEMmXVb5sR67-jVlGNKCuvisLlrqWnCPNdFD9VSWutrV29qBzh_7YtFlmSt1_8qpHxbNxsxC0g9G3SrBxVfsNNbq8pvPbyrbT_n8-_KJLxBuaxV4jygksY1aPgB2aT4Rxdigfto5_Fx7CtJRgl5pNG0TRNexOBii3ccljeJ_u0mJJeOuZk9MqhaGEv_NY9QXLm3n-OOfrFrkYqcPw_LSR3DL_xPp7gJD6-dIB4UqRuUBvqf_ragONiKFYwudAb_2V5w=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lt-THLGyUt5KG-7SYZ52ia-_HhgnwZCa5BFCy3psuy7iughsRVvUT2U9alU2zigSTSCOLnQyRhq2hCKwt9QPzeO1Mi3Vjh1rm6w6G4Zbz0I21_fE7Wb8Nx6MpJDqn79NVh64cYPX97k1tyfWV5P_quNqYG3uagA-GxEz2Nb4eoyPPB9pEadmOpzJEFsZ0-u-EZ-BQrdvzM-1Ngo2Qx1bjQZzMkx7QZmzU7nZRxbOLqPfcJ8hhlRGxUVdtAoVcPOSkQX0JEl_Hyz_W8vn5zg4SUsFlcIafCaRw6RhbnZ6TmyqmO0roC9p2DBT7wmPmf2KQHaj-sXfC9QgTEZd8sov1E2mpnTDdnbzbfanqe2pVxDSIGeuCqsyg9c5Ccc6h3Gn8HLyg_8ewp8Wqx2S0oMaZkH1Yji4Cff3v_WngrB1d97dG86PQgt7vGKI0Iw7brXcjitrQQviUHAAxX8ebwmXhPdeGFBO0m-di9CRhElqGoAqqD9Ghjb89NquVMxZCf9jOXuoNPTfmKSaUnGrTIu0QnUgDaAK-W7gR2G8M32SwJvWNoKssqVSob3KR_cuOK09sRtfLwAeLWORa0fzLeHtNHTtmzdlDqS4d6M95p267wdIJy1082j8AB6DZw=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IqROcGJw4Iw9XVzSD6yrhMK85mjq4b9HRvtE_4QubLn_8hO87-iXrnTsMNBNgVIOwdYjLpG_l6mqGaJycSYLQbk1J4tbn_LGkzZ-Y_MrQDC3Sdwfn_5btDJWz46-U0i09-Fqe1LBEXfvsk4XLQDoUoIUluUxrTdziNHEHoGuxbV7dbpk6Vn7AlZ2dOuakxadiFo5CYEMbqAALQdhZV5SZRawJMvL5kflHDR99HGXKDxjR7pXknZ7rFOpaiMASrtmymfzuUzSvzcU7pynmArY8M4esOBXvKqGFiAr_4aBkfYbd1abQOCFdr74xLR2LpzlfWs7gB_ERihErYkEgY61ikqaw3r9Y6nD1830wxoBIWYQJO41rgRyFleu4RkKnnIMwQ28LuDfccOB-GVTjvtGj22or8rhze_T6DiYqimZE8pDnuGcaEMYJv0zguzA9efx3-mZpwxSAodUSySWcXgAKUJrPzsQfHYsX9M5Zq3BkP2ugvL-yZVL1r6obQYQ6ZjHJN99IVPMmyDwuqmGklblAhyiTMhs3IhZ3Da_4xf0LekLIK134OO2ysvfMt6btXtoupZkXb1JQs42Js4w85xNSbKtBXK_-cTsphKiL5wHZDCl_XY2h8O9Kt5V_Q=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GGcJPjryv2mf4bQSWGk57ZsC6bLMqZXVlNH7ivwHA-bVr0mZlgly4tfiOvEc6lhX2Hz0rDr3CkCEopLxDFZUdUo7wfQIIRrZe3O1GkbSSbSn2uDzt3ZHJZMv5LQr-RXSeWtk0m_2O062j4fNsoxN_Y2xfTUhRKhkxpgv9GwRYESWfa8_J-mvkRsOjRRs-QddB0RRAUgOIMAk1L2WHh2JYkxkDVDFc4or7PN0R5pzwhO5_nVm0nHjuMzWlJCy5zQr74YhfQExmg4Z8fWWRnHAbHjY7GMcX9t5SJeDlXW23IjgHN8fWrSLh32Ydr5u1JeFA0vadYrmqwygi04Gq5D62CFqNoONXmZJu7Yq5mww42HMRYzvv4nHWFAYE4HBQD96I-drE3CF7KU91L0NG46__ROAy7flmFfyHxcrhrSn2zQiETc54QnWRxSHhIx1417zuisM-jyL5uQzt_x6-GKWVvcaH0OmVyrmIXGosv0b68YwfM971ZtuXKqcdBJe3rop-XpkwMZkk4Yu3Z4j2uWWFlknkEecDmbtQ7QGsbQhsJDa2uisVVd83kid5cIZMLPZhO5vrB0pdXedl67IQ-fOJ5P45yCAVXuV-A6LXMR_feGV6kocZshtYUf4HQ=w800-h600-no)
It's too bad I hadn't done the small upright this way because I really like the curvy look it produced. With the small upright I had already made the straight cuts. I guess I could have one part each way, but I'll probably trim this one to match. Note the edge is still a little wavy. I hadn't figured out that the Z axis gib was a little sloppy yet. I've developed a habit of clamping down the Z axis lock when I take cuts and eventually I noticed that the head shifted a tiny bit. That's when I realized the gib wasn't tight.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jGhZY56lkafBnJOOmcKfsrLjFdr1Bj0uL-T2uESG-BGvBaW4S4rxZFlOmGws8A7jxP82gxw9A1ZWdxFAKJT5nFwA9948-5dWZbFz8UgvYWFy-tlugiFxgaRC2UOjJpq0auCETwaSnqAQUJMLL9KVfvI0a7D2zxqZvG0B18VHJI-fvlt9tD24vx-8hN4rKrbhGGxDVM0K7CGxk0qjBmgio8zCga66K5AfacD_ZQPSP032RuZJE0AFg7yTRSpRlam95hO09c60sR9-LSHRIyLBG7oyzxMn4EqmBU9gF6FYf-w9KecWhVc5iPblAvAMdb4HQde3UlYiWLp6Ab5cyz7WIiLyNFtZIWOdF6jlKZ3IfF8tb9Bm99qVcBCssyWfPC36rbWGnVXFO2H1ckzL-CG3scxpKjk5W5P6VaY8W-r0KJ_1Gf-TfnjiJ1pkFI2b8mlP3cYI6l1KbiYFo4XpeumoA37t0M6pFQQ9wQykDgIdAgZz2y25l-r8TO8qktAll4XcOKHfnhiVyM6P3zYYgeid_W9uwWXbPqriCysd-wpWry3HLqi-hP18wJLl278GHgWQ6UQnumAjcQTyfDKOXxV8E4fcQGBMftoPudpCEWcaXYbzzVVlbA1BSqK4HQ=w800-h600-no)
Then it was a matter of calculating and making the other cuts. My math didn't always come out perfect. Sometimes I'd forget to account for radius or diameter of the mill. But I'd give it a close look before slicing into the part. And I'd write down my settings relative to the center pin so both sides would be identical even if my math was a bit off.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dOcTBrKPsYg7BC0lI0Zii3Ypiju3HKbCuPWEPVYhaKRgYsAG0uHMTV0qAtfR04vm5ebL_GCV5kRWvhyfIj909zWQaR_yAW1eyytWy8PPX87zsl_BVPGmGa_fhDNajZ-CznZqvvSZKC1fqn018ZCf6Dsc__xEXmW7jcYVj9kub70ws6Q_npDG9Gd32EBQXK-Zf4aNc2GjBwzkEJ6pVccO4V3AuVHy0wYHDTzo0MSiMLWvF--X8yVLZMM1iPOVT-UuJWnRkUoqevvwGxh2w1ZbBR-z3bozLsJKlcAMV8TZdCHQQnx43QcaNp5Rb4jfzoZZ0C64U9yantFzJ07jjbiP8I-Yj_MHxqM3ajID8VAaq8K2BHOv9DiM2PiZMkn6cZyXHn2kgEHHJCAB_sfQLJdbV6C1HGXN0rtBrnRGUUdCNKAUhu1hzzJAZ0F9eVsRyMDUVuxNWut_3MQuuzjTwtPKRz3w7hysbwujgLFUqcF4d7mpjAl4gD6jkbxvWBnqfvjVfGInpGzcu84g2mDdEZmDaMJ-qjS7Y8LRiLBBzhpqIswBwqJMclfCatVTZ1kI_dj_XUIbnpkGVzKRxEQIWl28ZWFboGYae1qEiK6gDyfOve72QNIpsTYhnlusAA=w800-h600-no)
Here I have all cuts done except for the slopes at the top of the upright -- which is at the bottom left in the picture.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0Lmj4tEp7naPZeJFop-7Me_B6aGhyZvB3fZBppkTqTfT_-63KIp62AGJfUVeqHwGy-w4F25t1z9iCEqq8p1nLmT4rUf7DEFXV2WgwHUTY2edfR_GUevo4Q5mpiNHeoVmgdov1HeHFn4UD8B5yrBmQY5aKFTnLTiSMfzcVIVxOvPaMZ_mWSApBcuj10mayfXOveOtqVFiHTVrkspdE3NAo9a94MyzzGFWcs1s5InJdeXlT7waRlk1iJl3O5u0MxYiy5X5jxoQywUw82XT08acIR8Hycyygwnek4Kf8gecDNIMlqWXtfxX8hlr4Mudt9xtfNASJYosQ8CE4kpzhEYEpEesqh2P605ng0z0qr9x-EHq_zbGGPgJj8G_XWNXguUT5HUJbZOyaTkVQFhz7laPVzJ4tyQBjV6B6oiRrKZ8rpvxdJVt4P4H2SZV6HLpdlzAJI-_nuv95ZWjy36DTZVya5yNoKEK2ORZ1t989H-BHigwgcMo2BCp8y2olj1ZKgUyQH2GHDfTJMOPwz3mGYCLYJcceJbL35AdeBq63SN3rO1idJTgYHFTVSAb7-EdoFI-3a2AGfXe_OATZ_TCreIm6715_ZRmoqqjEPUm56BRbaYUUqUOnbs_gL1Dtg=w800-h600-no)
Here I noticed trouble. My calculated positions for the 45 degree cut on the top of the upright would dig into the spot where the squeaker will go. Since these were easy 45 degree cuts on the outside, I simply moved it out one turn of the dial which is 1/16th inch on my mill. Good enough. I made the other side match of course.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U8q3XbFgEqhtI5rQRKv6zuLPS7yCGea-zWKtvcwG4ouG-i-H0NTTMuna9672O2ceXXYFtaaY1s1Kjml2bAziat_fT-dV17Kojld7r-qIKGh4mXA6d9FNbVB_bvMfS2hwDkJKaJQdcLqaZP_w7U4_M7EFmG0AE_ZTAEc4rq2DBPlDAjIVzezbihu3flR79KC7cvOXUELO8ludq7EniGkqVstynJovbnXwwFeI9FYSDm8eKc155wz0uXoqmW1mPzAzfiAr4id1QfYooDeo1IjXcKjdtsJbi486-QUimRCzfiQUrYthiS8sQYTvDa3SaUtUjCXIOQ-hI5JyzQ-AoDgNEJCyx-ifp1nk5RjUEhfB9R30NLzIQWVUSF7_PDGcJrU74aseCRL6qUYKynsp2P5g3NwiVtHzg1MFAa_dK0ACuyiD5BILX_xYIPubcaPLg6BmgaIQkbcXcLsjtsKWcjL29kDBGOtNrvCvDMUWaxsDj1YLuW0XwnoF0dwTWkfCMUynsrdRaPpgCXddhZo4JO-XD6QUlJCLqQIs4AH7rxNPtZAh2KBpCRY52HBkVeHsxmHsJNZYWGM8BkUGUuDX7itgE35Wt97Nh30AsOXlck7JUAw2E3tO-KPOmiKy7g=w800-h600-no)
And there's the tall upright with all the 45's cut.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uMrwbY0aB0b8N1MoY6bsCJ2ZobuweAZfm1jDSmDrwW8py36eUGM0IYRr9KKYfp_Jwr1w7oSM_l97BFF7D1ZnZvwe6T0pvD7LhM8zZyPC4wFH9GNydfnzg7xOlQc02f_bhml3xYfVTK0c9ghYwDrPquEDGkLP_nCiSo6J4MzCxuqDSABByM1QY6SgKDbsU3a3NKReYuvmFwumGBFfJNINyF7caYtDmpTLQXfETiVwy-0YJAvSLWStR_9Fu2beZKMBpJg0kRInFdMEXEwsLomSMVii3eLIgkO91R9KJdhaj2KGmD7U6x44U-E6SYaVAEN9hCAwfav0573ynTFjlw--T4BlViBOEoW9b54vQSydboc6MbKxqMHL5QU2UxVpq-b5dW5rPUNlo_IGMICjOdf66lT8HTnVLOScnjrmsctwIHmG0R8zS3N_8oN0hhfvyPMYv0lsGFj7T_jqPaK6Bpk9OfJIlmtHbyli7rtZEn2u28Lchs1PUJxpBZ_-r3-gOXF5lG8sxdu8OLe0z4Ts7Px6EXEZqvsrpiL2b24tIxF3GM-KpZwu8yK49DkR5dSv8LIKMc-vBdsmKJlFkPG63NMFIsZfsvELdWFyHXaBQvziZBNrHZC0McpYEbUkJg=w531-h708-no)
Finally, I needed to make the remaining straight cuts with the vice back square with the mill. I bought this spiffy roughing end mill for this purpose and I found it worked way better than I thought. I could easily gnaw off 1/32 inch per pass (half a dial turn) on my mini mill. That was fast enough for me.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yWlE0TPGbyYUuS1J_fvOVwqnKgA8-zVgMwngmD27fCBRd7u-Vn_xyg9ngrm8cWanABVMdF1cNhWdnd06dd2zh2rfl6n23gc21h2zdlEYsgAmAdg2XnWGopUMfUP2vORyZHYCZNr0GvVLSOEHvhYO5qWCgOeIpG4H_HdZNAlvJMACy-DF4SRkxZImTUwBgGHdA_pOEcgPtHFbNtyqJ8AE9hh18r2h5xtJJkePArk191AesyfXAFPFIbiJpuDhVbz_YwKBKgCNkLE4Lgq9A93HNQqZ662y6fGWK0lGipAkmM8Rypizwf6LClxvkCTqesnLYOqIm-Npl6JeztkbfDAwympxxpn_u8JP1vlMuFpyINERWZWI-JnlO9lQym95P1Lkmg3IV0IN-49AxvBVILLCmYefWEuJUYUIx3S2EgQ4wkJIUQyd9tsdMm9_L_Q4YsN8wHgkqn4VfRKQ0lWC01YJR8nA5LDdRaD_kOTW9F8Jvo5tDJ1h_PmIA7mA37Mf9no6lE2IbprV1g5NMCGVbeBV47WnapTTcPkQBoQGSf13i9oy44Vt3ie-GwqWEB1rWhYXCZu4EdtvhpelotYFydYYXX3d1uLhwbeR4F3uAgs7BHMS186BbUIHAa7WdA=w800-h600-no)
And that's where it sits on my mill right now. Work is getting in the way again (doh!) so these postings will slow way down for the holiday weekend here in the US. My plan is to switch to my regular mill and trim the current cut to the size in the plan. I can use the full height foot of the part that remains for an easy zero measurement (or I could read up from the parallels). I'll flip over onto the newly flattened side and trim the other side in a similar manner. That's the plan and I'll let you know how it goes.
Todd
(Update: replace PB photos)
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Don,
You rounded yours? Was that done on a rotary table? That's something that's on my list, but isn't yet sitting in my shop :(.
Todd
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Hi Todd and no I had no rotary table when I made mine. I used a rod through the bearing opening clamped it in the vise and rounded it with the mill. Used an slot drill for the bottom arc opening. Your doing fine bud.
Don
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I admire your use of math to do this but if you need to do similar work in the future consider getting a mill-drill with a 90 degree point...
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=320-1400&PMPXNO=946286
to simplify things for yourself. Another tool that you'll find very useful is an 45-45-90 angle plate...
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=418-4810&PMPXNO=946805&PARTPG=INLMK3
It will allow you to accurately and effortlessly position work in the vise at a 45 deg angle. They make them in 30-60-90 configurations too.
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That's a nice looking little engine, following along :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Well, after some quality time at the Rollag show this weekend, I got a quality day in the shop. Can't beat that.
I left off with the flat parts of the uprights needing some machining. This was pretty straightforward and my new roughing end mill came in handy. I didn't really want to saw these by hand and I don't have a metal cutting bandsaw. The mill worked fast enough for me.
I switched to a regular end mill to finish it off. Note the rough finish on the angled part. I was thinking I should have left a bit and run a second pass for a smoother finish. I have no idea why I didn't do this :(. Too much thinking about math I suppose.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140831_162349_zpsp5nmehqp.jpg)
I did the other side the same way, but now it's up on higher parallels. I used my roughing end mill first, then the regular mill shown here. Note that I was using a dial indicator to estimate my final width. I could get the calipers in for an actual measurement, but this helped keep me on track.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140831_171649_zpsm8ekiafv.jpg)
The tall upright is similar. I used the roughing end mill, and then regular. I did both sides for the wider width first, and then I repeated the steps for the narrower width in the middle. I thought this would provide a bit of extra support than if I did both widths at the same time.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140831_184417_zpsbtw0p0fs.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140831_184417_zpsbtw0p0fs.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140831_190828_zpsk9eau9kd.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140831_190828_zpsk9eau9kd.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140831_202302_zpssosj4yuc.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140831_202302_zpssosj4yuc.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_094559_zpsxe5jrvyc.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_094559_zpsxe5jrvyc.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_095238_zps2jk2qtmu.jpg) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_095238_zps2jk2qtmu.jpg)
And here they are after a bit of filing and sanding to smooth out my rough work. It really wasn't that hard to clean up...but next time I think I can do better. Oh, and I decided to leave the "swoopy" feet on the tall upright. I wish I had done that on the small upright, and am hoping it won't be too obvious that I didn't. Worse case, if it looks silly I can straighten the tall upright after the engine is complete.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_111317_zps3cfusjfk.jpg)
I got a bit more done today, but this is a good place to end this post.
Todd
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Looking very good so far :ThumbsUp:
Nicolas
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Like I said, it was a good day. I decided to work on the cylinder next.
The cylinder is made from hex stock. The cylinder will have a head attached, and the other end has some turned decorative rings. The plan wasn't specific so I made something up that looked similar. It came out pretty good. I then drilled and reamed the cylinder to 0.499 inch. I decided to drill with 1/4 inch, then 15/32, and finally 31/64ths before finally reaming it. Maybe that was overkill, but it came out pretty good.
I started by facing both ends. This picture shows the second face, so the first is flat up to the chuck.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_130728_zpsbrtp4cqx.jpg)
I cut the decorative grooves with a V cutter. I see now my chuck is also straight on, so the picture looks a little busy. This view is straight down.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_132812_zpstedjyuvz.jpg)
Now I do my multi-step drill and ream operation. You can see the decorative rings better here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_141017_zpskn97wfoh.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_141017_zpskn97wfoh.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_141854_zpsmwxcqzro.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_141854_zpsmwxcqzro.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_142629_zpsslfnwnxe.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_142629_zpsslfnwnxe.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_143201_zpsvb6ijtci.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_143201_zpsvb6ijtci.jpg.html)
My parts collection is growing :)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_143339_zpshi6k0rrr.jpg)
The cylinder needs to be drilled and tapped for the pivot, and it needs to be drilled for the air intake/exhaust port. I decided to lay it flat on a couple of parallels that were also flat under it for support. I used the edge finder between the chuck jaws to get the center line. Note the jaw mark on the cylinder. Grrr...I need to figure out how to eliminate those. Should I be wrapping it in paper or something? I didn't think I tightened it so hard.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_171730_zpsvxhsoodx.jpg)
Here are the two hole operations. The first was tapped as you can see.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_172333_zps3kuvhunu.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_172333_zps3kuvhunu.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_172530_zpspesunlgy.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_172530_zpspesunlgy.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_172735_zps0ag2qbyb.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_172735_zps0ag2qbyb.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_173143_zpsiydrthdg.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_173143_zpsiydrthdg.jpg.html) (http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/th_IMG_20140901_173344_zpszid0lody.jpg) (http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/tinglett2000/media/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_173344_zpszid0lody.jpg.html)
I managed to get a photo that shows the reaming finish. It isn't exactly rough...but I expected a finer finish. But maybe lapping is required for that. Note that my facing finish could use a little more quality, too. A few swipes on sandpaper took off those rings. The camera sure is picky!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_173826_zpstklmneoj.jpg)
And now onto some brass to make the cylinder head. I started by facing it off on both ends as before.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_175043_zps4xcusx2x.jpg)
The cylinder head recesses into the cylinder, so the first step is to turn it down to fit the cylinder. The plan called for a 1/8th inch thickness for this, so I used a parallel as a thickness gauge. I ended up taking a little extra, but a bit of facing and using the parallel as a gauge fixed that.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_175610_zps0afbbnwr.jpg)
I turned it until I got a perfect fit. I think it came in at 4 thousandths under, or so.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_182635_zps0y2nyil1.jpg)
But there was a gap which was caused by a little material remaining in the shoulder.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_182656_zpsazv1relk.jpg)
Then I parted it off making a set of decorative bands on the way. I forgot the shim the parting tool so I got a little nub that I had to file off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_190758_zpsp93ue1vy.jpg)
But it came out fine....
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140901_195222_zpsw61efxst.jpg)
Now I need to drill and tap six holes for 4-40 screws. I want to order some little hex head machine screws so this might wait while I make the piston next.
Todd
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Hi Todd, that is a good progress shown here. Thanks for sharing this excelent build report.
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Hi Todd, your making great progress on your engine here!
Yeah, its easy to get jaw marks on aluminum. I've never found paper to work for me, I still get marks through paper. I have the best luck using little scraps of 1/8" or 1/16" aluminum between the part and the jaw. I've tried using thin sheet aluminum, like a cut up pop can, I've heard others recommend that, but I still sometimes get marks through that even. Maybe I just tighten things too tight. But I sure don't want parts to come flying out of the chuck while its spinning!
Brass can mark fairly easily too, though not quite as bad as aluminum. Steel not as much!
Kim
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I like your very clear photos and description Todd, and the parts look good. Keep it coming :ThumbsUp:
I use bits cut from soda/pop cans to avoid jaw marks in parts; I guess I don't tighten the chuck enough to mark the parts!
Simon
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Nice progress Todd! And I like you little personal touches as well, that will make the engine yours alone :)
Bill
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Hi Todd, your doing great and the collection is getting bigger. The photos are tops and some great documentation to go with it. :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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I now have a question for the community. I'm sure glad you guys are here :)
My next step is to turn a piston and a separate piston rod to go with it. I'm sure I can make a nice press fit for it, but as you can see in this excerpt from the plan, it is suggesting I "peen" the end. A little searching on the internet is finding little practical lessons for me on this.
I do have a fairly small ball-peen hammer I inherited from my grandfather, but honestly I have never tried this before. I can see from the plan that the rod will project all the way flush with the top of the piston, and the countersink will give it some room to squish and expand. Am I really supposed to hammer away at it? And how do I protect the piston rod so it doesn't bend or squish on the other end?
Sorry, this is *really* newbie material for me....
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140902_195917_zpsoabftn5d.jpg)
Todd
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Todd you will need to put a dimple into the end of the rod with a drill bit. You can protect the rod by putting it into the vise and put a piece under it for support then peen it very carefully. Another option is to drill the piston for tapping size and tap both the rod and piston then loctite it together.
Don
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my view on this sort of task is im happy to adapt it to my known processes. I would look to threading it (6BA looks about right) and/or even soldering it, taking a hammer to it is valid but not for me either.
Sometimes with 6 and 8ba rods into pistons I assemble with a bit of solder paste then run a torch over it, easy to remove but it wont come loose in service.
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If both pieces are brass you can soft solder it and keep the solder in the countersunk area. Alternately, if you have the torch available, your could silver solder it for even more strength but I suspect soft solder will be sufficient.
Bill
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Good going so far Todd :ThumbsUp:
I'd also go with Bill's suggestion of soft soldering it, but I would suggest that you solder both at the top and bottom of the piston, unless the connecting rod is a near press-fit into the piston. If it's a bit loose, the sideways forces imparted to it from having to wobble the cylinder around will make a top only joint come loose over time if the solder didn't penetrate well into the joint. In fact, that will happen to a peened fit as well if the con-rod fit in the piston is a bit loose.
Trying to make it a press fit might not be a good idea; you also might experience problems holding the parts to press them together without damage. Threaded connections work well - if you have access to Elmer Verburg's engine plans, he used a couple of different ways to use threaded con-rod to piston mountings. There's no definitive "correct" way to do it; use whatever method you feel comfortable with.
A couple of additional comments if I may:
The reamed finish in the cylinder:
It looks like your cylinder is made from steel (you didn't specify). While showing the reamer with the swarf still on it just exited from the hole, there's two things that caught my attention, and might help you in future. The first is that there does not seem to be any cutting fluid on the reamer. To get a good reamed finish in most steels, cutting fluid is pretty much essential. Just use some of the same stuff you use for tapping; that will help a lot.
Another thing that helps to improve the finish, is to frequently remove the reamer and brush off the chips from the flutes. Reaming a cylinder makes for a fairly long hole that needs to be reamed out, and as the chips start clogging up the reamer's flutes, they mar the finish. From your photos, the cylinder's bore at the "decorative grooves" end where you started looks a lot smoother than at the other end that was closest to the chuck - indicating that chip build-up might have been a bit of an issue.
Don't worry too much though - the bore as you've shown it will work fine for a wobbler - and as you found out, the camera can be very critical ;)
Countersink/de-burr in the port hole on the cylinder:
I noticed that you have quite a deep counter-sink/de-burring in the port hole on the cylinder. If this is specified on the plans, then please ignore the rest I'm about to write.
From my limited experience, I've never seen a countersink in the port holes on the cylinder or column for wobblers. The reason is that the port hole sizes and spacing are fairly critical to how well a wobbler will run, and normally drilled to size and then flat-lapped to get rid of any burrs. If the holes are de-burred with a countersink or drill bit, it changes the effective sizes for the holes. If the face end of the hole in the cylinder ends up bigger than the distance between the closest edges of the two port holes in the column, it will allow "blow-by" at top and bottom dead center of the engine stroke. Blow-by is when air/steam can directly travel from the inlet to the exhaust port without going in and out of the cylinder.
Wobblers are very forgiving - and usually runs easily. If running on live steam, blow-by wastes steam which is highly undesirable. When running on air, it just uses a bit more air volume than it should, and might not run as well as it possibly can. So if you added the generous countersink "not according to the plans", and you run the engine on air, it's not a really big issue for this build; the engine should still run - and it's just something to keep in mind in future.
Kind regards, Arnold
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Hi Todd.
Ok it is important that the finished fit leaves the piston true to the rod. What this means is that you need to think about turning the piston to final size after it is fitted to the rod, so leave it over sized while you fit the rod to the piston ;)
A nice small (2oz) ball peen hammer will very easily peen over the end of the rod. Try using the hammer on another piece of steel before attempting on the piston rod. You will find it does not need a lot of tapping to expand the rod to hold the piston.
Jo
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Wow! Now I'm *really* glad I've been taking photos. This is like having experts looking over my shoulder :)
I have to admit that I took the shot down the cylinder because it seemed the work was rather low quality. My previous two engines, both oscillators, had cylinders which were not drilled all the way through so I couldn't see as clear as I can on this one. When I first looked I thought maybe it was normal for a finish like that. But as Arnold points out, the finish is better at the starting side than on the ending side.
I went to the original reamer photo (higher resolution) to check that I had used cutting fluid. You got me really worried that I had forgotten it :). But looking close, I see it's there and pushed to the back of the reamer. But perhaps I have a bad technique -- I drip cutting fluid along the top, but it really only ends up in the top 2 flutes since the reamer isn't spinning. You think that's enough?
Another question about reaming. Somewhere along the way, I read (well, I think I read) that you should ream in a single pass. That is, don't peck back and forth. But as you point out, a lot of swarf can build up. Maybe this is nonsense and for longer lengths I should back it out, brush it off, and send it the rest of the way?
I'm a little worried about the port hole size, too. What really happened was that I was pecking away with the starter drill trying to get it up to the countersink part of the bit so that the following 1/8" drill bit would be positioned better. But as the swarf builds up, it's hard to see what's going on, and this is a case where I want from "not enough" to "damn, too far" :(.
I may remake the cylinder head just for practice, and to have it a little better. It really isn't much material even for my tiny stock supply. I'm thinking the same way for the piston. I may try peening it, if only to learn why I don't like to peen parts. We'll see how that goes. I have a hunch I'll be making a couple pistons, too. But at least I believe I can switch to threading/tapping and loctite. Only 6 weeks ago I couldn't say that much, so I'm making progress!
Oh, and Jo, thanks for the tip on waiting for the last turning after the rod is set. I started to turn a piston last night and screwed up. Somehow I went from 0.499 (the reamer size) to 0.495 in a single pass! Way too loose. But it's less than an inch to part off, so no big deal. I'll just do it again. But I'll fit the rod first and turn it by holding the piston rod. I guess that will tell me if my peening is holding or not, won't it?
Todd
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Tonight I decided to redo the cylinder. It came out *much* better.
It also gave me opportunity to try boring for the first time. My boring tools aren't stellar, and the main problem was that the small tool I needed wasn't long enough. I did the usual starter drill, then drilled 1/4" and then drilled 5/16". The cylinder should be reamed to 1/2" as my target.
I used the boring tool to make it larger, and switched to drill bits a couple of times to finish out the full length. At the very end I finished with a 31/64th drill bit, under the assumption that it was going to be straighter than if I drilled it through without straightening it with boring. Really, I was just looking for some cheap practice. I could have switched to a larger boring tool at 31/64, but I didn't dare as it was the first time I had used them. Maybe next time I'll do it right. Then I reamed as before...but this time with a liberal amount of cutting fluid.
The cylinder is made of hex cold rolled steel. Here's how it turned out. It's hard to get a good pic of the inside, but I am much more happy with the look.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140904_195812_zpsbd0kzdz4.jpg)
My batch of parts is looking better....
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140904_195901_zps53l7fo6r.jpg)
The cylinder head still fits perfect -- which is good because I used the same size reamer! I'd really be scratching my head if it didn't :)
Tomorrow I'll move on to the piston and piston rod. Thanks for looking.
Todd
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:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :)
Arnold
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That's looking great Todd, nice work. :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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Todd, that second one does look better in the bore, I know you are happier with it now.
Bill
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Thanks all!
I changed more than one technique so I don't know exactly how I fixed it, but I should be able to follow the process and repeat this work in future projects.
It occurred to me it could have happened if the hole wasn't perfectly straight. I got this idea when looking closer at the previous cylinder I realized the rough area was only on one side. I happened to catch that in the camera, but you can't see the other side which is smooth. That's why I tried boring. But since I bored it and I was more careful with the reamer, I don't really know which fixed it. No doubt my lathe could use more tuning in this area.
I did fix the input port so that's a win either way.
Todd
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Time to make the piston and piston rod.
I started by drilling a 1/8" hole for the piston out of 1/2" brass rod. I was planning to ream it oversize (0.126") but it was already oversize. I guess that's what drills do. But no matter, because I'm going to fit the piston rod to it anyway. Recall this calls for peening by the plan.
The photo is before drilling. Yes, I had already goofed up a piston before this one. You can see the existing hole has an odd band around it that's residue from parting off the previous piston. The piston should be 5/8" in length and somehow I managed to part it off as 3/8". Maybe this is why I shouldn't work in fractions...but that's how the plan is written.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140906_202356_zpsptoh81nv.jpg)
Next I needed a recess for peening. I chose to use a 3/16" two-flute end mill. It worked well.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140906_202603_zpsdv9domid.jpg)
And here is the piston. I'm following Jo's advice to do the final turning of the piston when it's attached to the rod. So nothing else to do yet.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140906_204007_zpsc3eothvo.jpg)
The next step is to make the piston rod. This should be easy but I was only successful on the third try :(. Let's just say I got lots of practice doing it. I started by turning some 1/4" steel rod down to 3/16" as called for by the plan. I ended up supporting it by a live center and I made the length oversize for now.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_132140_zpspxulh2ny.jpg)
Note my cutter. I need a quite a bit more practice grinding those, but it actually worked quite well. I had to grind a clearance angle for the center and I got a little carried away, I guess. In the photo it looks like the cutter is way below center, but it isn't.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_133459_zpsu9ksquin.jpg)
I flipped it around and parted it off to approximate length. I took advice from the forum to use soda can to protect it. I had an extra wrap here that I trimmed off for further operations.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_134205_zpstao5e6nq.jpg)
Next I pulled more rod out of the chuck. I need a 5/8" length turned down to match the 1/8" hole in the piston. That leaves about 1 inch of rod in the chuck. I started doing this without additional support in order to develop a shoulder.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_135357_zpsxdqu0rov.jpg)
After a few very light passes, I added the live center. I decided I could straighten out the shoulder at the end. Now I needed to get it down near 0.125 inch and then go the very light passes until it slide firmly into the piston.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_140905_zpspjtiudli.jpg)
I didn't show my test fits of the piston...but I ended up pretty good. It went on with some friction, but I could pull it off again without much effort. Here I finished the shoulder for a nice fit. I didn't touch the rest of the rod or I would have made it too loose. That's what happened on one of my failed attempts :(.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_141111_zpsedtdvgt6.jpg)
Now the piston fit nice and square up to the shoulder (no pics for that). I turned it around and parted off to exact length. I didn't leave much excess.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_141712_zpseu6r1psb.jpg)
I drilled and tapped 6-32 threads. A stud will fit in this end that will allow me to attach a bearing for the crank. That's a future installment.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_142038_zpsuhzcfbk0.jpg)
Now it was time for peening. I had a small dimple in the end of the piston rod already for use with the live center. It was very small, but enough for a little added support. I didn't take a shot before I started peening it, but you can imagine it came through the piston hole (see the picture earlier in this post). Remember I had touched up the shoulder so the rod actually protruded slightly beyond the end of the piston.
For my first (and only) attempt I hand-held the piston assembly on the flat of my mechanics vise and I tapped lightly with the round end of the peen hammer. It was amazing how easy this was. I held the hammer pretty close to the head, worrying all along that I'd manage to miss and bend it. I didn't, and as you can see it came out well. I'm still amazed. It was solid as a rock, and I think it looks pretty good too. My guess at countersink diameter and depth worked out too. That was beginner's luck.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_143141_zpslspipd6i.jpg)
Next I chucked it in the lathe for a very light turning operation. This made me a little nervous as it was really going to test the peening. I turned it slow, and was ready for the worst.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_143335_zpsbnki1alc.jpg)
One very very light pass was all I got (the cylinder was reamed to 0.499 inch). I took off just enough to take off the tarnish...dialing less than a thousandth. At first I didn't think it was enough, but I wiggled the cylinder on it (power off, of course), and it seemed to fit. A little simichrome polish finished it off. Note there is a little gouge on the left end -- I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I heard it. I decided not to try to touch that up since it shouldn't matter for performance anyway.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_143647_zpsoij4gtrn.jpg)
Finally, here is the set of parts now. The gouge on the piston is more obvious in this picture because it's after I used the polish. My turning quality on the piston clearly isn't stellar, but I am very happy to report that if I place the head on the cylinder and cover the holes with my fingers, I get nice compression, and it's easy to get a nice pop. So I think it's going to work.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140907_144957_zpsex2h3pww.jpg)
Thanks for following this nail biting episode :).
Todd
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Good going there, Todd! I tend to get lazy and just purchase precision turned and ground stock for things like piston rods, since it's more accurate than I can turn without a lot of trouble.
Simon
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That's not a gouge Todd...it's an oil groove :) Nice work on the piston!!
Bill
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Tonight was time to finish the piston assembly. All that is needed is to add the bearing end to the piston rod.
The plan called for a 1/2 inch hex part with a note that this makes it easier to drill and tap for the stud that attaches the piston rod. I decided round would look a little better and went with that idea.
With the 1/2 inch brass rod in the lathe (same stuff used for the piston), I started by facing it off. Note the depression that was from my prior piston work. No matter, I'll be drilling this part soon enough.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_200343_zpsktce0moj.jpg)
I used a starter drill, then drilled with a #13 (0.185), and reamed to 0.1885. The final size was supposed to be 3/16 inch, and I thought slight oversize is good for this part. But it really doesn't matter because I'll probably turn the crank pin. Still, with the reamer I pretty much know what I've got :)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_200854_zpszqtc9mpn.jpg)
I parted it off to 1/4 inch thick. I also sanded the parted side with sandpaper that was flat on the back side of my mechanics vice. It cleaned up the remaining scratches pretty well.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_201648_zpsf7blucee.jpg)
Next I secured it in my vice in the mill. It's sitting on a single parallel. I took very light passes with the mill (0.005 inch per pass) to create a flat spot. This was done in 3 passes. I held the piston rod up to the part to verify the flat was wide enough (with the mill off of course) to size it.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_203722_zpso0jelc2w.jpg)
I drilled and tapped for 6-32 threads. I'll skip the drilling pictures this time, but you can see the parallel in this picture. The mill is off for tapping. I have a piece of foam in there to hold the parallel on the fixed part of the vice.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_204853_zpseyuyqeyc.jpg)
Here's what it looks like with a machine screw inserted. It looks like the end mill left a gouge to the right of the machine screw, but that was actually a bit of metal and a shadow. I had to double check! And it looks like I left a fingerprint on it :)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_205202_zpshtzrivs3.jpg)
And finally, here is the set of parts so far.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140909_211614_zps1cttckdp.jpg)
Please make comments if you would have any of these steps in different ways. I'm eager to learn alternatives! I know this installment was pretty simple stuff.
I was thinking of moving on to the crankshaft, but maybe I'll finish the base first and attach the uprights so there is something to hold the crankshaft. That might make it easier to verify everything fits together as I make that assembly. Maybe tomorrow.
Thanks for looking in....
Todd
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Todd that all looks good to me. Your making good progress.............. :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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Nice work Todd! Once those uprights get mounted to the base it will begin looking like a real engine :)
Bill
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Simon, there's only one problem with using material to size for pistons, and that is boring the cylinder to size, I find it easier to bore the cylinder to size, or there abouts, hone/lap if required, then make the piston to fit, I find taking off tenths of a thou easier on external stuff than internal.
Ian S C Just my idea
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That's looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Not long now till you have a runner :popcorn: :DrinkPint:
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Good going Todd :ThumbsUp:
Don't know about others - but I've found that parting off a workpiece into a reamed hole causes the metal to constrict the reamed bore to below size - requiring a second reaming to remove it. Just something to check before you turn the crank pin.
Great photos :praise2: - Good photos have a tendency to show up the minutest machining marks, finger prints and burrs :LittleDevil: . This appears to be quite a small engine; how about a family photo with a 6"/ 150mm rule to show the size ?
Kind regards, Arnold
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Today I made the base. Well, actually I started it a few days ago, then went to run steam traction engines in a show, and now I'm back at the pip-squeak again.
The base is specified to be 2 inches by 4 inches and 1/4th inch thick CRS. I only had hot rolled and it was 3/8 inch, so I thought I'd try trimming it down in thickness. In the end it worked out, but it was much more difficult than I thought. I now have an appreciation of why I want to start with proper sized material, but I suspect I did some things wrong and could have saved time. Let me know as you spot things, please.
I started by milling my 3/8 inch hot rolled steel to the correct length. Here's a picture with my roughing end mill. I used a normal end mill to finish up and the length came out fine. 4.000 inches. This is the base plate for the engine so none of these dimensions are critical. I was just practicing for accuracy.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_091201_zpsde59toau.jpg)
Next I thought I'd try fly cutting to trim the material down from 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch. I've heard nasty things about hot chips being thrown so I was a little nervous about it. I've actually read very little on the topic, but I watched some youtube videos to give me some ideas. I used a pre-made carbide cutter as shown. Note that I haven't yet cleaned up the sides.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_092220_zpsaydllkua.jpg)
After a few passes I ended up with a fairly smooth finish and a very funky pattern. No problem, but the process was SLOW. I found I could only take a thousandth of an inch off at a time. Maybe I have the wrong cutter, or maybe my mill is just too small for this (an X2), or maybe this is just a fact with fly cutting.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_094250_zpspiy1libr.jpg)
So I went with "Plan B." I clamped the base vertically and took off all but the last 5 thousandths with my roughing end mill. I took 15 thousandths off per pass and the mill kept up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_104620_zpsmnp5pyug.jpg)
I flipped it around and did the other half.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_112134_zpswxflohcb.jpg)
I placed it flat in my mill and got out the fly cutter again. Here's after the first pass of 1 thousandth.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_113737_zpsyavcsgb4.jpg)
It took a few more passes. There were some deeper cuts from the roughing end mill on the left side. I should have left 10 thousands because the final work was 5 thousandths short. No big deal here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_130121_zpsfvtyp5xo.jpg)
I cleaned up the edges and here it is.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_151852_zpsurwgc0m0.jpg)
There are some holes to drill and others to drill and tap. First are four through holes that will mount the uprights.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_155240_zpsqepx1vun.jpg)
And next are four blind holes that are tapped for 10-32 screws for attaching to some external wood base. The plan called for three holes in a triangular pattern, but I simplified it to four evenly spaced. It made me nervous that I might accidentally poke through, so I zeroed a dial indicator while the drill bit was touching a parallel as shown in this picture.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_160934_zpsdtswoqcl.jpg)
I was planning to drill 0.188 deep (in the 0.250 base). I added 0.125 for the parallel thickness and rounded up to 0.315 from the zeroed DI. It worked pretty good. Tapping got me a few threads for bolting to a wood base.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140911_161620_zpsayjusoyz.jpg)
I worked my way counter-clockwise to the right back corner and finished up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140917_122844_zpsgaufvbra.jpg)
Then I decided to sand out the swirls from fly cutting on the top side of the base. Here is what it looked like after a few passes over 80 grit paper (on a flat granite surface). It was fairly high in the middle as you can see by the scratch pattern in this picture.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140917_125147_zpsq1imczbx.jpg)
I wanted it to be reasonably flat so I kept at it until I got it flat way out to the edges. Then I switched to 100, 150, 180, 220 and finally a green pad. It came out pretty nice. It's hard to see, but somewhere along the way when my hand was hurting from holding the base, I realized I was looking at the perfect base plate holder sitting right in front of my nose. The black you see under the plate is a magnetic base for my dial indicator. It sure came in handy. Someday I'll need to learn to scrape, I guess.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140917_154737_zpsmbughpvo.jpg)
And here's the new batch of parts. I haven't actually attached the uprights, but placed them in their general position. I added the ruler for Arnold, too. The base is 4 x 2 inches and the tall upright is approximately 4 inches.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140917_161311_zps1bewakqx.jpg)
Thanks for looking in! Next I'll get to the crankshaft assembly.
Todd
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Another brief installment today. Time to make the crank wheel. This is pretty simple and will be a 3/16 inch thick disk of 1 1/4 inch CRS. Note that I'm using fractions because that's how the plan is written.
First I faced off 1 1/4 inch CRS that was a bit over 3 inches long. Easy enough. My finish is lousy, though.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_191752_zpsrelrfzvz.jpg)
Next I drilled and reamed a 3/16 inch hole. Reaming wasn't really necessary as I need to turn the crankshaft.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_192649_zps3kzpsty8.jpg)
Then I parted it off. I've been getting better and better at this, but this is the first time I had attempted such a large diameter of steel (for my experience). The rod was relatively long, so I started with full support from a live center. I thought I had everything as rigid as I could get and as square as I could get, but I still had it "grab" many times. I didn't time the operation, but I think I spent a whole hour on it. It was frustrating. Cutting oil seemed to help, but so did brushing out the swarf as it turned. I need more practice. My cutter is T shaped, btw. A P1 from Little Machine Shop.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_201816_zpsycdhgmeb.jpg)
When I got near the end I pulled back the live center and finished it off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_210213_zpsisvy0kmn.jpg)
I tidied it up with sandpaper and took it to the mill to drill for the crank pin. Then I realized I hadn't made a countersink as called for by the plan. Like the piston, the crankshaft will be peened to the crank wheel. I needed to center on the mill anyway so this wasn't a big deal. I pushed my parallels into a triangle to hold it better. This looked precarious, but I whacked it down and they didn't want to move at all. Still, I made the countersink very slowly.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_212822_zps88wrlhcp.jpg)
Then it was time for a 1/8 inch hole for the crank pin. I center drilled and then drilled it. I pushed the parallels back to the edges for this one.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_213314_zps8g411hnx.jpg)
One more part to add to the pile!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140918_213556_zpsnj1ek5cr.jpg)
Todd
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You're doing good here, Todd, and obviously learning a lot as you go along. Yes, fly cutters aren't a way to remove lots of material, and, as you found, they can be a bit "bouncy" or "ringy" and not leave a very flat finish. If you head is slightly out of tram on either axis you'll end up with a scoop or a lip (for overlapping cuts). If you can afford one, a facemill is a better option for surfacing. Otherwise just crank two and fro with the largest endmill you have and spend some quality time draw-filing and sanding :D
Simon
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Todd, the end results looks great even though it took you a while to get there. I agree with Simon as to using an end mill to remove most of the material with the plate laid flat and then filing, sanding, etc. A face mill would work well but not the least expensive alternative. I am thinking that the bit in your flycutter was not sharp enough but sometimes it is hard to tell from pictures which seem to show every little imperfection. Anyway all's well that end's' well and the Pip Squeak is looking quite well indeed.
Bill
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Thanks for the feedback! It's nice to know I'm not way out in left field.
It's been good to try things different ways. I hope to get beyond these experiments before I get into real expensive projects. Meanwhile, I'll add a face mill to my list. I've learned to build an ENCO list with part numbers so when the stars align and a combination of offers hit at once I'll be ready :).
Todd
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Looking good Todd and it wouln't be long now. ........... :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Hi Todd,
Nice work, the family shot looks great. Very nice photos too!
Hugh.
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Todd
May I ask why you have some Ali can material between the chuck jaws on the raw stock in your pic of parting off ?
It is not required on unfinished parts and will reduce the ridgity of the grip .in this case it can induce chatter.
Yes I do use it on finished surfaces to prevent maring the work
With regards to your fly cutting you need a HSS left hand knife tool with a curved cutting edge , but the main trouble is speed its to high for the dia of your cutter but it's your mill not you it will not run low enought for steel may be ok for Ali. But you did finish with a good part
Stuart
You are doing a fine job
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Stuart,
I started with aluminum wrapping the steel rod so I wouldn't muck up the remainder for a future project. But, yeah, it did reduce the rigidity. I tightened it so much that the aluminum did nothing to save the steel :(. I should have pulled it out.
For my lathe's size and quality, I probably should have used a shorter piece of stock for this. I'm sure that would have helped also. Maybe my 4-jaw would have helped, too. Not only would I get the extra jaw, but it is a much bigger chuck and would have held better with the deeper jaws. Live and learn.
For fly cutting I did turn the speed down, but at some point it wouldn't cut without stalling. I suppose the mill has very little torque at the low end. I'll use an end mill next time, and maybe try a fly cutter for a very light pass for final cleanup if the result is too rough. I need to practice grinding HSS tools also. I can't recall if I've seen a pic of a fly cutting profile, but it may be in the diagrams I have. I'll have to go dig them up.
Todd
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Nice going Tod :)
Thanks for the scale; much appreciated!
John "Bogstandard" did a couple of write-ups on fly-cutting and grinding up a HSS tool to get good fly-cutting results. Unfortunately I don't have a quick link to one of those for you, but if you search for "Bogstandard" or "Blogwitch" you might stumble across them.
It might do you well to start to grind up your own HSS tools and see how you get on with it. There's many differing opinions, and I don't want to start a fuss about it, but you may find that using HSS on your smaller machines will give better results than using carbide or carbide tipped tools. You may also find that for some jobs carbide works better than HSS - it all depends on your machines and how you work, so play around a bit - that's all part of the fun :ThumbsUp: .
Kind regards, Arnold
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Arnold,
I found this page: http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/begin-with-bogs/fly-cutting/ and in fact the whole website looks very nice indeed! I'll put it on my late night (when I'm too tired to machine) list :).
I have taken a tiny amount of time to try grinding an HSS tool and it came out pretty decent. I need to force myself to do a few between engines so I have a set to play with. The only reason I have carbide tools is because I wanted to get started and it was a quick way to get past this step which appears to have a bit of art to it.
Thanks for the pointer...the Bogs beginner stuff looks VERY useful.
Todd
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In this short installment I make the crank pin which came out great, but not in the manner I had planned. How's that for an intro? :)
Recall I had a 1/8" hole in the crank wheel to receive the crank pin. The piston rod has a 3/16" hole to slip onto this pin, so the pin has two diameters. It is supposed to be peened to the crank wheel.
I started by facing the end of some 1/4" steel rod and I drilled a little dimple for the peening that will happen later on. I figure now was a good time to get that done. I'll forget later anyway, and besides I have plenty of material to grip in the chuck.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_121633_zps2hdmnmlz.jpg)
Next I turned a section of the rod down to a nice 3/16" slip fit for the piston rod. This is the larger diameter and I checked it with the piston assembly until I got a nice fit. Here I am done and testing the fit with the lathe fully off, of course.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_122944_zpsvqtujogg.jpg)
Next I turned for the smaller diameter. I started using this tool but then switched to another for tidying up the shoulder. Here is where things first went wrong. I was having a tough time with the facing cutter (not shown) until I finally gave up and got out a new cutter. The new one worked perfectly so I pitched the old one into the garbage. I suppose I ought to pull it out and try to figure out what was wrong with it.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_125144_zpsiovdeb3z.jpg)
When I got the shoulder nice and tidy I had a *very* tight fit at the shoulder end. The rest of the fit was ok (not sloppy). I decided to take the pin out of the lathe and give it a try. With a couple of taps it went in very nice and snug and it wasn't even peened yet! Now what? Either I could pull it out with some pliers (or whatever -- it was tight), or I could formulate a "plan B." I went for plan B :)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_132827_zpsqmstnllc.jpg)
So I flipped it over and peened it. I held the assembly by hand with the pin on the flat of my mechanics vise and tapped away. I really did "tap" rather than "hammer" it. This went really well like the piston as you can see in the photo. Note that this is the "back side" of the crank wheel and you can see it has some gouges in it from my parting-off fight yesterday. Fortunately, this area is pretty well hidden when the engine is assembled.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_133018_zpseugnc7is.jpg)
Next I cut off the excess pin with a hacksaw (not shown) and placed it on the mill for trimming to proper height. I took light passes and it worked very well. This was very nice as I was wondering how I was going to work with this little guy in the lathe anyway.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_133608_zps0jatzy1s.jpg)
Here it is with a very nice fit. I was supposed to leave it slightly proud (1/64th). Now I needed to drill and tap for a 6-32 screw to keep the piston rod in place.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_135037_zpsif3y4nfc.jpg)
Here's how I aligned the mill with the pin. I realized it didn't need to be perfect because the screw will simply retain the piston rod. But I wanted it to be reasonable because there was little extra material and the screw would look sloppy off center. I used a 3/16" center punch chucked in my mill and used the piston assembly as the tool to align the two.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_152654_zpsmfffcl49.jpg)
Drilling and tapping was straightforward. I drilled approximately 0.200 deep since I was a little worried I might drill the pin off the crank wheel. I had to file a 1/4" brass machine screw down a bit to fit.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_153632_zpsa75ze8e2.jpg)
And there it is! A nice happy crank wheel with piston.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_154937_zpsnhbl93wx.jpg)
Todd
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Still looking good Todd. You're getting closer to a nice runner by the day now!!
Bill
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You're just knocking out the parts here Todd, and they're looking good!
Kim
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Speaking of knocking out the parts, I got quite a few knocked out this weekend!
Next I started with the crankshaft. There were bearings to make, too, and I'd prefer to fit the crankshaft to the bearings, but I decided to do the crankshaft first. I wasn't sure if I'd need to make a couple runs at it. It turns out there was trouble.
The crankshaft is spec'ed as 5/16" CRS in the plan. I started with 3/8" rod. I marked out the end in the chuck which will eventually be turned down to 3/16" to fit the crank wheel. I thought I could grip it rather hard since I don't have the ability to turn on centers yet. Why? All I have left to get is some kind of lathe dog, and I don't have such things in my toolbox yet.
So here we are...one end in the chuck and the other on a live center. So far so good.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_173545_zpsekvjb33t.jpg)
As I turned it I made frequent measurements. I've been doing this partly to get a "feel" for how much material really comes off vs. what my dials say. Generally it has been close -- my dial really indicates a delta in diameter. But here I noticed trouble. The tailstock end was bigger than the chuck end by 5 thousandths. I hadn't gotten around to this adjustment yet, and all I can say is that adjusting the tailstock on this cheap (Harbor Freight 7x12) lathe makes tramming my mill feel easy! Geez.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_204802_zpsegxd53gk.jpg)
After a hour or more of adjusting, I was finally back on track. I flipped it end-for-end and turned down the crank wheel end. As I neared final diameter, I tested the crank wheel for fit of course (not shown).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_210436_zpsyavaoc3u.jpg)
I flipped it back and parted off to length. Thankfully parting went perfectly fine this time. There wasn't much room for lack of rigidity, although I could have shortened up the blade a bit more. I faced it to spec length once it was parted. I doubt if the part required precision in length, but what the heck.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_211717_zpskzlwc1ry.jpg)
Finally I turned a groove at the other (flywheel) end. The intention of this groove, as I understand it, is to give a place for the flywheel's set screw to go. The set screw will be coming down at an angle. I chose to make the groove with my parting tool. I got it close and then moved it side-to-side to clean it up. It worked ok. There was no spec for exactly how deep the groove was to be.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_213024_zps7mpiixyr.jpg)
And there's a crankshaft to add to the pile. It was approx off by 1/2 a thousandth over the length. When I get all my gear ready for properly turning between centers, I find a better way to align the tailstock.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140920_213515_zpswyrkjo3t.jpg)
Todd
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Nice looking shaft Todd...and you got your tailstock centered in as well ! :whoohoo:
Bill
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Looking good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
"all I can say is that adjusting the tailstock on this cheap (Harbor Freight 7x12) lathe makes tramming my mill feel easy" I know the pain ::) I ended up re machining the tennon on the tailstock (using a vertical slide in the same lathe) before I could get things true.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=2866.0
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Todd you are just about there and I bet your all anxious to see it running. Nice job on the crank and shaft........... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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But wait, there's more! ...as the ginsu knives guy always used to say :)
I needed to make two bearings for the crankshaft, and a bearing and small shaft for the oscillating cylinder. The crankshaft bearings were first.
The holes in the uprights are 7/16 inch and the crankshaft is 5/16. So I started with a 1/2 inch brass rod -- which is a popular rod size in this project. I faced and turned down a 1/2 inch section since that's the thickness of the uprights.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_104402_zpsfpunptc3.jpg)
I got a nice snug, but removable, fit. Here you can see the short upright tested with the lathe fully off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_105551_zpsakplphek.jpg)
I center drilled, then drilled with 1/8" and then drilled with an N bit if I recall. I wanted room to ream to just over 5/16. I drilled a fair amount more than the width of the bearing.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_112800_zpsq9vzpuxm.jpg)
Next I reamed, even though I've learned that parting will mess it up a bit. I'll need to ream again. At this point I was thinking about making the other bearing using a different order of operations.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_113052_zpsdovuhcao.jpg)
Here I parted for a bit (remember it is drilled out, so little material remains), and I decided to make a decorative angle as called for by the plan. There really wasn't room to work. The order of operations I was using was to avoid chucking the part, but I punted here and parted it off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_115037_zps69dbmrqd.jpg)
Here it is chucked. I could have protected it with some soda can aluminum, but decided a light force chucking it should be good enough. The theory is that it'll be just a bit more snug. Good thing I did this as I had a bit of cleanup from parting to do anyway as you can see.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_120351_zpsjjmczsvw.jpg)
Now I took advantage of the fact my lathe can run in reverse. I cut the bevel on the back side and all I had to do was use great care not to touch the crank wheel. It worked very well.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_120756_zpsiuggqdxo.jpg)
Finally I reamed it again to clean it up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_121038_zps5jzahxkd.jpg)
After that adventure I decided on a "better" order of operations. I won't bother with all the pictures, but it went like this: I first turned down 1/2" and test fit with the upright. Once I got a great fit, I parted it off. Then I chucked it, did the angle bevel, drilled it out, and finally reamed it. This order worked well.
Here's a pic of the test fitting during these steps. Note that it's holding the upright pretty snug (lathe is fully off).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_123902_zpslsp3vb1u.jpg)
Now we have an even bigger bag of parts! If you are *really* observant, and I'm certain nobody is looking this close, I swapped out the brass philips head screw with a hex screw on the crank wheel. I just got a bunch of those babies from microfasteners and they look much more "engine-ey" in my opinion. It would have been nice if it was brass, too, but oh well.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_144600_zps2vi9s0p0.jpg)
Two more posts will cover the weekend's work. Next was the nerve-racking part. I had to peen the crankshaft to the crank wheel.
Todd
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Ok, it's time to peen the crankshaft to the crankwheel. I was nervous because I didn't want to remake these parts. On the other hand, I had two other successful peening operations behind me, so what could go wrong? :)
Here's the crank wheel on the crank shaft prior to peening. It's balancing on the back of my mechanic's vice just fine.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_144751_zpsset3pz6z.jpg)
And here's after pounding on it. So what happened? It actually came out just fine except for marring up the finish a bit. The trouble was the crank pin got in the way of the hammer. After tapping carefully for some time, and making it look like I can't hit the head of the nail, I had an ah-ha moment. My wife had this spiffy little peening hammer for eyelets for scrapbooking. It helped a lot, but I still could have used a smaller hammer. Even better would have been a rounded rod.
Note that I placed a piece of paper on the back of the vice to help with marring of the end of the crankshaft. To do the peening I held it by hand. That part worked very well. But the finish on the crank wheel needs a bit of tidying up. I've done a little already (not shown).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_145718_zpsnv9ryp5b.jpg)
Not many photos in this installment, but here's a picture showing the crankshaft assembly in place. The poor piston has nowhere to go, though, so the next installment starts there.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_150843_zpsmpndv4zq.jpg)
Todd
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One more installment and I'll be caught up logging the weekend's efforts.
Next I need to make a pivot (shaft) and bearing for the oscillating cylinder.
The bearing is nearly identical to the previous bearings, except this one is completely buried in the tall upright. That is, it is short of the full 1/2 inch thickness of the tall upright. I turned 1/2 inch brass rod so it fit the 7/16 inch hole already in the upright. Here I am drilling with an N bit (almost 5/16 inch). Note that I'm tuning the order of operations again. I thought it would be good to get the rough drilling done before I chuck the part that I so carefully turned to fit the upright. This means less clamping pressure later...at least that's my hope.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_164207_zpss5ubqib9.jpg)
Now I parted off the bearing. You can't see it, but I didn't drill all the way through, so this parting operation went all the way through the rod. The bearing is also long.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_170426_zpswocqajwu.jpg)
Finally, I faced it off and reamed it. I was expecting to drill with the N bit again, but it turned out that facing opened it up all the way. In other words, I got lucky. Here I show the reaming and the bearing is done.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_171634_zpsoxm19lbu.jpg)
Here it is inserted into the upright. Oh no! It looks like Mr. Bill! (For the Saturday Night Live fans out there)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_171809_zps9yqpdemr.jpg)
Now it's time for the pivot shaft. I faced, drilled, and tapped for a 10-32 stud that will attach to the oscillating cylinder. Here I show the tapping step (lathe is off).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_192628_zpskund1b0d.jpg)
Next I turned it down to a nice sliding fit for the bearing I just made. Here I show the bearing slipped onto the work as a test (lathe is off).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_195930_zpsrazrempj.jpg)
I parted it off at approximately the correct length and turned it around in the chuck. This time I used soda can aluminum to protect it. I faced it to correct length (1 inch -- it was very close), drilled and tapped. Here I show the center drill step.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_202659_zpsrj2q1vxx.jpg)
Here's this little shaft in perspective of the engine so far.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_203426_zpsbb4mjcwj.jpg)
And finally here is the picture of the engine with the part in place. The new shaft is inserted into the upper bearing and sticks out the back of the tall upright.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140921_203457_zpssbxn2cvj.jpg)
I sure am getting excited about running this little guy! The next step is to build a little cover that holds the spring on the back side of that new little shaft. I also need to drill and tap screw holes for the cylinder head. And of course there is the flywheel. I'll keep plugging along....
Todd
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You are doing well :ThumbsUp: It won't be long before its running 8)
Jo
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That's a very nice engine you're building there, not far to go. Hugh.
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Last night I made a decorative little spring cover for the oscillating cylinder mount. The plan called for this rather than a simple washer and bolt that my other two oscillators used. The diagram wasn't terribly specific as to dimensions, but it needed to accommodate a spring. The plan's recommendation was correct about the spring. I picked one up and it had ~5/16 inch inside diameter (to fit the small shaft) and a 3/8" outside diameter.
I started by lightly turning my trusty 1/2 inch brass rode to expose a nice finish, then faced, center drilled, and drilled part way in with a 3/8 inch bit. I finished with a 3/8 inch two-fluted end mill so I'd have a nice flat bottom in the hole that was 1/2 inch deep. The spring fits in here. Here's a photo after using the end mill:
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_204103_zps8gixat5k.jpg)
Next I made a decorative groove. The material was not very thick after drilling so I had to be careful. I chose to go 40 thousands deep as it looked pretty good. I started with a straight "C5" carbide tool (C5 C5 -- that's confusing) which was straight ~5/16" but I couldn't get the dang thing to cut properly. So I went back to my parting tool to make the groove. I plunged 0.040" at multiple positions and then moved it back and forth with the carriage wheel until it stopped cutting. That worked pretty good and is shown here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_205450_zpsdm3srmbg.jpg)
I shined it up with green pad, parted it off, then chucked it again in some soda can aluminum. Here I am drilling for a clearance hole for the 10-32 screw that will be the adjustment for the spring.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_211002_zps9itjbjqe.jpg)
The plan called for a 10-24 screw, but I went for a 10-32 SHCS that I already had. I needed a 5/16" hole so the screw could recess neatly in this cap. I used a center drill to make a countersink (not shown) and then drilled part way with the 5/16 twist drill shown here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_212024_zps6khdb1mf.jpg)
Then, like the other end, I finished with a two fluted end mill to get a nice flat bottom in this recess. I had already measured the overall length of this cap, and I had measured the depth of the 3/8" recess I had already made. So I had to do the math to get this right. I had plenty to spare so I counted revolutions of my tailstock crank (3 turns = ~3/16). That was close enough.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_212434_zpssydgprmc.jpg)
And finally I put on a decorative bevel by spinning the lathe in reverse.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_213032_zps1cadih6p.jpg)
Here's what the final cap looks like. Much better than a plain old washer!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_213129_zps09jlhwxf.jpg)
Here are the parts that go together in this assembly. The CRS shaft is from earlier, a purchased spring, the new cap, and a 10-32 SHCS.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_213200_zpsvyok4kpj.jpg)
Here it is assembled. I thought it came out good. The spring with push against the tall upright, and the cylinder screws onto the other end with a stud.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_213308_zpszo92y3oz.jpg)
It's getting to be tradition, so I thought I'd better post the family photo. Hope I'm not using up too much of your bandwidth :). You can see the new cap up top on the back.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140922_213338_zps5y1lewia.jpg)
I still need to make the flywheel, finish and mount the cylinder, and make the little squeaker that screws in on top. I also haven't screwed down the uprights. But nearly there :).
Todd
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Todd, you have done such a nice job on this one and the build log as well. I am going to have to put this one on the short list now :)
Bill
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What Bill said Todd! Very nice work.
:popcorn:
Don
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Last night I decided it was time to screw this thing together and make sure everything fits ok so far. This didn't take long, other than I had to take a hacksaw and file to some 10-32 screws to get the short length I needed for attaching the uprights to the base. This also produced a perfect-length stud I needed to attach the cylinder (lucky me).
Here is the engine so far. Note that the cylinder head is not yet bolted down, nor do I have a flywheel. Those are next.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_184205_zpsssbbbtz4.jpg)
I did encounter a problem, and here I'll need a little advice. Recall when I made my bearings I didn't make them press-fit. Sure, they were tight, but with a good push of my finger I can get them out. Is this ok for bearings?
It turns out it isn't for my cylinder head. The spring needs to push onto the upright, and it does this by pushing on the bearing. That doesn't work if the bearing pushes out! My first solution was this awful ugly washer. But hey, it worked!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_184220_zpsgcc0sl57.jpg)
At this point I hadn't realized what was wrong with the bearing, so I didn't consider re-making the bearing. Instead, I decided to go for a fashionable washer. I started with a very small leftover piece that I was using for the cylinder head. I wasn't sure I could work with a part this small, but it turned out I can :).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_202049_zpsu3mbmh2r.jpg)
I lightly drilled with a 1/2 inch two flute mill to get the diameter marked. The cap I made the other day will fit in this recess.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_202535_zpscihexmc8.jpg)
Then I drilled out for the 5/16 inch cylinder head shaft. Remember this is a washer-like thing.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_210235_zpsrmgv3dbl.jpg)
I turned the inside face of the washer a bit deeper (not shown) and finally parted it off. I had a pretty rigid setup and this actually went fine. I wasn't expecting this would be easy with such a minimal grip in the chuck (well, I tightened the heck out of it!)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_211209_zpsjr5tzl7h.jpg)
And there it is...a much more impressive washer, and it looks like it is intended to match the cover. Well, it was! :)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_211527_zps55qwjn8n.jpg)
And here it is in place on the engine. Much better.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140925_211636_zpsnhhm3pzs.jpg)
This weekend is time to attach the cylinder head and make that flywheel. See ya then.
Todd
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Getting close now Todd !! This is really turning into a fine looking model and the workmanship is excellent :praise2:
Bill
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Nice work Todd - won't be long before it's a runner!
Simon.
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Nice job with the washer Todd and the engine is looking great. The bearing can be loctited if need be, I did that on my engine. .............. :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
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Almost there :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Neat fix with the washer :)
-
Finally some time for the shop. Here's the flywheel which turned out a bit more difficult than I thought.
The flywheel is 2 inch diameter by 3/4 inch thick. I started by facing both sides in my 3-jaw. Plenty of room.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_111637_zpskz1mzujb.jpg)
I got the metal from onlinemetals and they generously cut it to 1.125, so I decided to part off the excess rather than shave it off with endless passes. I took this as a bit of a challenge, and it went really well. I suppose that was because it was so solid.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_113305_zpsbjye2vne.jpg)
I center drilled and then drilled to fit the shaft. I did test fits, but I didn't seem to take any pics of that. It fit nicely.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_141705_zpsclhn9w8g.jpg)
Next I started machining it out. The inside will be beveled and the outside edge will be straight. I started with this tool, but very quickly found that the pre-made tools were just too big for this.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_152202_zpsflwmh7hw.jpg)
I tried different cutters, and this one worked fairly well. Others gave me lots of trouble with chatter. LOTS of trouble :( I even ground my own, but just couldn't get it small enough to get in there. Even this one needed to be raised slightly for cutting near the outer rim, and lowered when cutting near the center. Blech.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_174032_zpsojyfgyex.jpg)
I flipped it around to turn the other side. For the outer diameter I had taken a very very light pass before I flipped it, and here you can see I took a final pass on this side without moving the dials. It was close, but not perfect. Maybe I needed to use the 4-jaw for this to work? How do you guys do this? I'll probably make a mandrel to finish it up properly. Maybe that's the only way?
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_175831_zpsqxyx4e5g.jpg)
Here's where I finally stopped. It isn't as rough as the picture makes it look, but there is a little excess shoulder in there that I should clean up.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140927_210740_zpswicb46dx.jpg)
Next I needed to drill and tap for a setscrew. It turned out my mill is just too small for this as you can see in this picture.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20140928_194932_zpsczbfnnvy.jpg)
I decided to take it over to my woodworking drill press. Plenty of room there, but it really made me appreciate my mill for this kind of work!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141003_201750_zpsfubasxqa.jpg)
I tapped it with barely enough clearance...
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141003_203342_zpsgpnhcx7w.jpg)
And here it is, finally attached to the engine. I'll clean it up a little, but I figure it's good enough for testing the engine.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_101633_zps8llemdh6.jpg)
I still can't run the engine like this. The cylinder head still needs to be bolted down. That'll be the next post.
Todd
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Almost there Todd. Very much looking forward to seeing the first run.
Bill
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More progress...in this installment I attach the cylinder head.
For this I got to use my spankin' new rotary table that I bought as a 50th birthday present for myself. I thought I may as well celebrate going over the hill! Besides, my wife got to claim she got it for me. I'm good with that :) I was originally planning to just measure out the screws, but this was more fun, and fortunate for me, didn't really require much accuracy. Still, I wanted to try to be as accurate as I could for the practice.
I started by centering the RT using a dead center (it has a MT2 in the middle). I used a 5/8" collet to center on the point (no photos of this), and it worked pretty good. I had to tweak it with a DI moving about 10 thousands at most to finish it off. Someday I need to make a tool specifically for this, and it'll give me an excuse to make a taper on centers in the lathe which is something I've never done.
In this photo I'm centering the cylinder on the RT. My vise is too high for my mill, so I had to get creative bolting it down. I maybe could have made the setup rigid enough for heavy milling (so to speak -- I have a X2-style mill), but I'm only drilling/taping holes so I wasn't too worried about that. I happen to have a "spare" (i.e. too small) piston I made earlier in the project, and that is the bit of brass you see centering the mill onto the cylinder.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_111443_zpsb37vp1pj.jpg)
Here I used a DI to finish centering. It was only 5 thou or so off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_112055_zps0ue3gfgj.jpg)
I cranked it over 5/16 of an inch for the screws. I had violated a rule I always use in woodworking -- don't work on a project until you have all the hardware. These 3-48 "bolts" are pretty cool, but a little bigger than I expected. I also had some 2-56, but they weren't as well defined. I ended up dialing it out another 35 thousands to make room, wishing I had turned the cylinder head in a little more than I did :(.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_114939_zps7kazllyd.jpg)
I used a couple drops of superglue to attach the head, then I drilled and tapped. It came out a little too tight...the hex head rubbed the cylinder head. Doh!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_115919_zpscadyhueq.jpg)
Here I drilled for the second screw after moving it out another 5 thousandths. It still didn't quite fit -- note the first bolt isn't seated all the way. It was better, but still rubbed. The bolts were getting way too close to the edge, so I decided to make artificial clearance using a 3/16" 2-flute end mill. That was the smallest end mill I had, and it actually was sized quite well. Lucky me.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_121812_zpsromarqca.jpg)
I went all the way around, drilling, tapping, making clearance with the end mill, and installing the bolts as far as I could. I thought I should install the bolts because I didn't know if the superglue would hold it for the full operation.
The RT was working well -- 15 cranks for 60 degrees. Easy enough. I think measuring would have worked fine, too, though. I would have done the two across the center first, since the cylinder started on center. Then I'd do the two toward the mill column, and then shift Y and do the two away from the column. At least that was my plan before procuring the RT.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_135801_zpsqgpjedaj.jpg)
And here they are, pretty much done. I used some needle nose pliers to tighten them down further after I took the pic. I haven't actually separated the head from the cylinder. I suppose I should, and I should make the cylinder head holes into clearance holes, but for now I'm just leaving it as-is.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_140339_zpspi5m0mzy.jpg)
Here's the engine *almost* ready to run. I like the "engine-y" quality the bolts give it. The squeaker is still missing (the threads on the top).
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_143009_zpsgqeqproo.jpg)
Time to run this thing, don't you think?
Todd
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Todd,
Where did you get the RT if I may ask?
Bill
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Awesome Todd and awaiting the first run. :cartwheel:
:popcorn:
Don
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Here's the first run. Whoohoo...it took right off, but required ~50 PSI of air to get it to go. It was very tight. Note that it's pretty stable, though. It's sitting on the back of my bench vice and not walking around like my other oscillators would do.
Note that I put a bolt in the squeaker hole. It actually sounds pretty nice without the squeaker :)
[youtube1]http://youtu.be/K6rZoX-xybE[/youtube1]
I was curious why it "chuffed" so much and noticed the inlet/outlet valve holes are exposed as it runs. Go figure. I checked the plans and it seems this is how it is supposed to be.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_144257_zpsdczzphcv.jpg)
Todd
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Bill,
I got the Grizzly H7527 RT. It's 6 inch and I noticed it was barely taller than the 4 inch, so I figured going smaller wasn't going to solve my mill capacity issue anyway. I got it on a 10% sale which covered the shipping.
Todd
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Here is a longer run after it loosened up. The bearings were tight, so I put a little simichrome polish in them and spun the shaft with a cordless drill for a bit. After cleaning up and oiling it ran smooth. I also inserted a thin washer at each end, but that was only to allow me to pick it up while it's running. I'll probably take those out again.
Now it's running at much less than 40 PSI of air, but I don't have a gauge to tell me exactly what it is. It can run a bit slower than in this video...but not much slower.
[youtube1]http://youtu.be/xsESwQvPfBA[/youtube1]
Now to get that squeaker done...
Todd
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Well done Todd :praise2:
Sounds good.
Jo
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Nicely done Todd and she'll loosen up as you run her in............. :ThumbsUp:
Don
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Congrats Todd....looks and sounds great. It should loosen up more with additional running as well.
Bill
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Looks good congratulations :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
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Now that I know you have an RT, I can offer the following hint...
Trepanning a flywheel is, as you discovered, something of a PITA. One way to simplify the job is to mount the flywheel to the RT and rough out the trepanned area with an endmill before putting it on the lathe and doing the finish work.
Boring bars are useful tools for working the "walls" of the trepanned volume. If your chucks are not the screw-on type an upside-down boring bar and the lathe rotation reversed will allow you to work on the inner "wall" of the excavated volume.
-
Hi Todd, congratulations for this runner.
-
Very nice build. Thank you for documenting it.
Hugh
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Well done Todd :)
:thinking: ... The ports shouldn't get exposed like that for a wobbler, but it runs and the inlet port getting exposed and blowing by makes it sound nice ;) .
I do have another concern though, and unfortunately only noticed it now... It appears that the whistle hole is on the inlet port side of the engine column rather than the exhaust side. That means it will just continually whistle and require even more air to run once you fit the whistle. Is it possible that you can post an image taken from the plans showing the top of the column ?
Kind regards, Arnold
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Thanks everyone for the kind words! It is really nice when things work out, more or less :)
Marv, thanks for the tips using the RT and it gives me a little hope the flywheel work wasn't just me. I didn't think at all about boring bars. I'll try that. I did like running the lathe in reverse for some of the "inside" work. It was lots easier to see what was going on.
Arnold, I was also worried about the squeaker running on the inlet air. Here's this part of the plan. I can try running it in reverse by swapping the inlet/outlets, too, since this engine is so simple.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_174526_zpsqhwzpxvo.jpg)
I was thinking the squeaker might get louder when the engine wasn't consuming air, but I wasn't expecting exposed ports. The port position does make a nice "chuff" though, so maybe it's not so bad :).
Todd
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Todd the whistle will squeak as the cylinder oscillates. The pressure pulsates as the cylinder moves back a forth. The sleeve that fits over the whistle controls how much air moves through it.
Don
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I had time to make the squeaker this afternoon. Here's how it went.
I faced and turned a length of 5/16 inch hex stock. It calls for the end to be rounded over. I decided to do this cheaply with a few angle cuts starting with a 45 shown here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_164904_zpsjjhb5eqd.jpg)
A few angles are done:
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_165213_zps6xg9xfxd.jpg)
A small amount of filing and it looks pretty good.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_165617_zpshkmaiwf2.jpg)
I flipped it around, turned and cut some threads, and proceeded to drill out 3/16 inch inside as indicated by the plan.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141004_205039_zps58s3pf3n.jpg)
I removed the squeaker from the chuck, and then chucked a smaller diameter brass rod scrap and turned it down to fit the hole in the squeaker. Here I'm doing a test fit with the lathe powered off.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_112944_zpsgmea8cyw.jpg)
This internal rod needs to have a flat that will form the whistle. Here I am milling off 50 thousands as called for by the plan. After some tests with the squeaker later in the day, I re-did this part with only 30 thousands removed and it worked better due to less air loss. I had trouble clamping this piece as one parallel in my set was too low and the next size too high. So I sandwiched a thin rod underneath the parallel -- in case you were wondering what that was all about. It worked pretty good.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_124630_zpsi4kg4spn.jpg)
Here's the version I made with 50 thousandths removed. Getting pretty close to the vise!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_125107_zps4t7ykvui.jpg)
Next was time to cut a 45 degree notch in the squeaker. It's a typical looking whistle, which is more obvious in later pictures. Here I have it in my bench vise, actually a tiny vise clamped in a big vise, and I put a few washers on as spacers to keep my work straight. I started with a hacksaw cut shown here.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_130018_zpszc25kyyj.jpg)
I filed the 45 degree part with a needle file and it came out pretty good. I realized the threads got gnawed down a bit because I hadn't finished taping the hole in the upright with a bottom tap. I don't happen to have one for this size :(. Oh well, I doubt it will hurt.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_184519_zpsdswrtnwj.jpg)
The flattened insert goes in and makes it whistle when you blow on it. The right position really was even with the flat part of the opening, so here I am milling the insert to length. By the way, the fit of this insert wasn't perfect. I actually made three versions of it, and it went from not being able to fit at all, to being too loose. But one light whack of a hammer fixed that :) I actually realized I could do this when I found the burr from milling it made it fit too tight again.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_131424_zpsvebxnnit.jpg)
I tried the whistle before moving on. I'll post some video with it. My daughter thinks it sounds a bit like a dentist's drill. It's way too high pitch, so I'll probably run it with the cover down. Speaking of the cover, I started making it here. I was planning to hit the home center for some hobby brass tubing but found they don't sell it any more. Rather than drive all over town, I decided to make the little guy. I started with some 3/8 inch brass rod. Here I am starting to drill it.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_163534_zpsdzxd678k.jpg)
I started with a 1/4 inch drill and continued up until I got to 5/16 inch (the size of the squeaker). I was hoping to stop at "N" which was slightly smaller...but it was still too small. Unfortunately, 5/16 was too big, so I squeezed the part slightly in my vise to distort it so it would "stick" in an up or down position on the squeaker. The idea is that it can optionally cover up the whistle hole.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_165415_zpshefig3oe.jpg)
Here is a close-up of the squeaker with the cover lifted. I probably won't leave it lifted much.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_191032_zpsdhfnefir.jpg)
And here is the "finished" engine. I'll leave that in quotes because I have a lot of cleanup and tweaking to do.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141005_191129_zps0fkscmn9.jpg)
The engine is also supposed to be "blued." I have some of the stuff, but have never used it. I'll practice on some scrap and see if I like what I get. The bare steal and brass look pretty spiffy, too.
Todd
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Here's a video. It's really hard to hear the squeaker whistle. It's running much slower and the "chuff" is the good part :)
[youtube1]http://youtu.be/1wC0nc_V5G0[/youtube1]
Todd
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At the risk of being kicked off the forum, today's pip-squeak installment involves woodworking!
I thought I should take time to mount it to a nice base so I don't scratch up the engine mounting it to the base later on. I had already made a set of six bases when I built my first engine, because it's lots easier to make six bases at once than six bases one by one. How's that for an optimist? :) The bases are all 5x6 inches so they can only accommodate little engines, and here we have a little engine.
Here's a photo of the engine resting where I want it on the base. I'm leaving room for a name tag at the front which is represented by a little slip of paper. Perhaps after this engine I'll order up some brass name tags for the 3 engines I have constructed so far.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_153148_zpsbxpge15s.jpg)
I laid out the points for the 4 mounting holes, marked then with an awl, and used the drill press with a 3/16 inch brad point bit. I really missed the accuracy of the mill when doing this, but I didn't want to blow wood dust all over it. These holes were pretty tight for the #10 machine screws. It turns out I did have to slightly elongate the hole that's under the bit in this picture.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_155351_zpseu9mszqx.jpg)
There are four machine screw heads sticking out the bottom of the engine. You may have noticed that the engine is floating above the wood base in the first photo due to this. I want the engine to rest flat on the wood base, so I needed to drill some clearance holes. I screwed the engine down tightly and removed it, and it neatly left marks where these clearance holes need to be as can be seen in this picture. Of course I knew the measurements, too, but this was easier.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_160442_zpsp1awozlv.jpg)
I drilled the clearance holes with a 1/2 inch forstner bit. A smaller hole would have worked, but I didn't want to mess around making things line up since I was eyeballing these. A regular bit would have been a little more messy, but would have worked fine as these are completely covered up by the engine.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_161043_zps5opoefgy.jpg)
I test fitted the engine, calculated how much clearance I needed for those machine screws, and drilled similar clearance holes on the underside.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_161428_zpsacehexko.jpg)
Then I screwed down the engine. Here's what it looked like underneath. While nobody will normally see this angle, I still wanted it nice and tidy.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_164052_zpsjbnwhbki.jpg)
And here it is, looking nice and presentable!
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u435/tinglett2000/Pip-squeak%20oscillating%20engine%20build/IMG_20141008_162139_zpscuhfpl59.jpg)
Now I need to disassemble and polish up the engine. I also need to look into the bluing process and see if I dare do that to it. I'll try some test steel first.
Thanks for checking in!
Todd
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That's looking good Todd and nothing wrong in doing a little brown work for a great project. Are you going to put a bevel on the engine base as well? By the way I did blue mine with gun bluing.
Don
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Todd, both the whistle and the base look terrific. Nothing wrong with a little "brown" stuff work for bases and such. I find it kind of a nice break at times. SO what do you have planned for engine #4?
Bill
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Don,
I have put some thought into a bevel for the steel base, but I already have that on the wood base so I was finally thinking against it. For a while I also thought about a rabbet around the edge, but it looks pretty good as-is. That is, I don't really need to make it appear thinner.
I do want to blue it, so I'll play around with that a little this weekend. I have a bottle of Birchwood Perma Blue that's newly purchased. Any tips? From what I've seen on the web, it sounds like I should work fast. That is, wipe down in < 30 seconds. How much do I need to worry about surface prep -- both polishing and cleaning? If it works like wood stain I need a very even polish, but (hopefully) it doesn't.
Did the squeaker on yours work very well? I'm not very happy with how mine sounds, but appearance is ok. I really like the chuff, chuff sound without it. Can't beat that :)
Todd
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Bill,
Oh yeah...the next engine! I have indeed been thinking about that :). As I started this one, I noticed another oscillator on the board that I liked. It's the one from Steves-workshop.co.uk. Very nice, but I've already got 3 oscillators (almost) done.
However, about a month ago I was browsing through the Plans And Drawings section of this forum and ran across Stew's (sbwhart) Potty Mill Engine. Julius make some excellent drawings that I believe I can follow. I think that's the one.
BUT...I need to control myself and do a tiny bit of shop cleanup and some machine tuning before I move on. I need to practice grinding some cutters as well, or I'll be limping along forever with these purchased carbide things. They are ok, but completely non-adjustable (so to speak) as you know.
Well, we'll see how long that control lasts. This is WAY too much fun :)
Todd
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Good choice on the next engine Todd. Yeah it is fun isn't it ! Just wish I had more time at the moment to devote to hobby pursuits rather than work but such is life :shrug:
Bill
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P.S. I am also interested in how the blueing works out for you so I hope you will document the process which I hope works out well for you and this nice project.
Bill
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I do want to blue it, so I'll play around with that a little this weekend. I have a bottle of Birchwood Perma Blue that's newly purchased. Any tips? From what I've seen on the web, it sounds like I should work fast. That is, wipe down in < 30 seconds. How much do I need to worry about surface prep -- both polishing and cleaning? If it works like wood stain I need a very even polish, but (hopefully) it doesn't.
I've never used their Perma Blue, but I have used the Birchwood Casey Brass Black. And as they say in the video, make sure the metal is CLEAN! I soaked the brass in acetone for 10-15 minutes, then rinsed before blacking. If there's any oil or finger print on the metal, you can tell after blacking! But once the process was complete, the blacking didn't rub off (at least after an initial rub down anyway).
It'll be interesting to see the process you use, so please be sure and share it with us!
Kim