Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Kits/Castings => Topic started by: steamer on July 23, 2012, 05:30:20 PM
-
Hi All,
I'll be documenting this one here. Hope you enjoy. Pete (Metalmad) did a full blow by blow at the other place and made a great running engine,,,,hence my name...of my own.
I will be using Bez's castings...they seem well enough...I'm sure they'll be great as one running engine is out there made from them. I started this at the other site as a "interactive" thread. That didn't seem to catch on well, ....so although I don't mind input on different ways of doing things....feel free to.....I won't be making it a focus like I did there. Instead I'll work with the equipment I have and post it blow by blow. My son is going to be working with me and at the age of 9 is quite young...but he's enthusiastic. Don't expect any speed records here...... ;) I'm a busy guy.
Dave
-
Dave,
I've got engines I started years ago, and they still aren't finished, you just take as long as you want.
Just make sure that little one gets a good grounding in machining, he's the future.
John
-
Hi Dave
Yes, don't rush it :)
Just post things up; I'm sure people will ask if they've got questions!
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Thanks guys .....will do.
Dave
-
:)) Took me 17 years, almost to the day, to do the Stuart Beam. Any longer than that will be of concern tho ;)
-
Howdy Dave, fancy meeting you here - I guess I'll be following this thread here then.
Ken
-
Watching this one Dave :D
-
Dave
No hurry. I think this place is going to be around for awhile, now that we have a full complement of smileys.
Jerry
-
Thanks guys!
Im still dealing with the fallout of the other.....but im on it!
Dave
-
OK here's the pictures from the Hemingway Site.....again
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Wallaby_GA2.jpg)
GA showing the basic layout of the engine.....notice the oil pump in the bottom right hand side....think about the datums involved.....nasty bit that is.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Wallaby_GA.jpg)
-
Looks really interesting Dave.
As for progress...you won't be in last place. ;D
Even if you run past tel.
-
Thanks for the support all... I'll post some more.
Dave
-
Hi Dave
I happy to have found your Wallaby build here. Will be following.
Vince
-
Hey Vince....glad your here!
I've just about finished the oil pump.. I still need to make the pump shafts, so that is on the docket for this weekend if I'm not working this weekend :hellno:....so stay tuned
Next is the gears for the crank, idler, cam shaft and pump. I plan on using a different method that was used recently by Arnold. I'll be using a flycutter and making the flycutter per a method put forth in a spreadsheet format by Gail Graham (GailNM).
Because of the make up of three castings in the gear locations, I believe I will need the gears to find the true locations of the pump, cam ect..in situ.
That's my plan and I'm sticking to it! :cheers:
Dave
-
i will be watching this one for shure ;D
tel - i got you beat by a mile, i started building a george white traction engine at the age of 12 and i am now ............ er.............well .......... a bit older .............. aw hell i am 44 and it is still not even close to being done.
chuck
-
Hi Dave
I'm glad your posting this build here, I'll be watching with a very keen interest.
After all I want to know how to put this thing together :shrug: too.
I figure the more examples I have, the braver I'll get.
No need to rush(4th) just to stay ahead of me. :sleeping:
Cheers
Bez
-
OK I made a start on the block castings by facing the flange to a finished thickness and flat. I mounted the block in a 4 jaw chuck and set up the casting so that the flange was an even thickness all the way around. I then set up the sump casting and did the same thing.
Easy Peasy...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-02-26_11-05-34_437-1.jpg)
I then faced the top of the block to +.040" by setting it up in the mill and facing it dead parallel to the base flange.
Next came the initial machining of the timing cover.
I set the cover up in my lathe on a fixture plate mounted on a faceplate....I love faceplates! I have several of these fixture plates and they are nothing more than a piece of aluminum plate with some holes in them It helps if their squared up as it makes it convienent to shift from machine to machine....but it's nothing fancy by any means. I made the straps too, and the fixing bolts are 1/4-20.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-09_20-44-27_197.jpg)
After a quick work over with a file to get the back somewhat flat, I mounted this all up and centered the casting boss in the lathe and then proceeded to machine the front boss and bore in one setup.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-12_22-25-14_479.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-12_22-25-25_490.jpg)
After that I mounted my collet chuck and held the casting by the finished boss faced the back side and cleaned up the bore of some sand splatter...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-12_22-51-06_692.jpg)
Now I'm approuching these parts this way, because of the picture on the first page of this thread. The Oil pump is WAY over constrained....TOO MANY DATUMS!
3 castings locate the pump in it's entirety.....The most problematic is the gear case cover. It is fixed by the bushing in the just completed bore that mates with the crankshaft. There is no float there anywhere. It also locates 1 side of the oil pump via an eccentric spigot. The other side of the pump is located by a concentric spigot on the other side of the pump where it's mounted into the sump. This is of course, located by the block!.....YUCK!
The only way I can figuire to machine this is to do it all "in situ" using toolmakers buttons I'll offer that I don't have DRO's on any of my machines. The Southbend will get it eventually....but that's another project!
So this is the plan.
Set up the block and bore it for the crankshaft/bearings
Mount the sump and face the ends parallel to eachother and square to the crank.
Dismount, and using toolmakers buttons, locate all the various gears in mesh on the front of the block adjusting as I go to get good mesh.
Set up on the block and locate the timing case with the crankshaft bushing.
Drill and tap the mounting holes for the timing case.
Set the block/sump assembly back up on the lathe locating on the cam shaft center.
Bore the block for the camshaft bearings.
Mount the timing case
Face and bore the distributor boss concentric with the crankshaft
Dismount the timing case.
Set up on the idler gear location
More the block for the idler gear pin.
Set up on the oil pump drive gear location
Bore the sump for the drive gear shaft bushing
Install the previously made bushing
bore to size.
Install the timing case.
Bore the case undersize to the pump pilot bearing diameter (.250)
Lightly face the timing case in the area of the pump mount.
Temporarily install the pump body on the case with small screws
Sweep the eccentric pump body in on center of the swing of the lathe.
Remove the pump
Bore the timing case spigot which is now eccentric to the pilot bearing diameter.
Tap the final holes in the case.
........piece of cake!.......
What could go wrong?
:toilet_claw:
Dave
-
Dave,
I do not have DRO on my machines either and I will be asking questions about the tool makers buttons this time as I did not quite get it last time around.
Dan
-
Nice start Dave :ThumbsUp:
They look like good castings and IMHO that's half the battle when working with them.
Best Regards
Bob
-
The next item I worked on was the oil pump. This part is made from bar stock and commercial 10 tooth pinions.
I started with a simple fixture...Why?....because the only piece of bronze stock I had the right size was very short. So I faced and counterbored to the 7/8 dimension and then mounted the piece to glue chuck.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-17_11-32-02_725.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-17_11-34-33_733.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-17_11-46-11_479.jpg)
I then brazed the bosses on and cleaned it up in the mill.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-17_15-01-23_541.jpg)
And then put the various holes in for the screws as well as tapped holes for the toolmakers bushings.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-23_16-05-10_535.jpg)
NOW we need to bore the holes for the gears. To be efficient, the fit here needs to be pretty good! My mills don't have quils, so boring with them is kinda problematic. I did this in the lathe....but how do we position on the faceplate?
Here comes the toolmakers bushing. I'll go into these in a bit of detail for those of you who are not familiar....otherwise just skip over this bit.....
This is a very old device and if used carefully, can be very accurate. They are used to establish a position on a piece, and then indicate that position so that it is coincident with the axis of rotation of the lathe. This is determined using a dial indicator.
To start you need to make the bushings....as the name goes, it's a bushing. The goal is to get the diameters straight and the ends as square as you can make them. There is a large hole through the bushing for a clamp screw. In this application, because the bushings are close together, I made one of the bushings a bit longer than the other just so I can clear the other one while I sweeping the first. Here's the procedure to use them
A pair of tapped holes is put into the work piece as close as you reasonably can. The bushings are then clamped to the piece at these locations. Because the center hole is much bigger than the screw clamping it in position, you can move the bushing around a bit. This feature is what we will use to position the bushing EXACTLY where you want them, using a micrometer, and a surface plate to finely position these bushings.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-23_19-04-06_81.jpg)
In this case I used a angle plate with a V in it to hang on to the embryonic front pump housing. I did this so I can bore the two pieces in one set up there by making the shaft bore and the gear bore dead concentric. Using the micrometer, I set the distance between the bushings to exactly 3/8". I then put the angle plate on the surface plate and using a dial indicator, rotated the assembly until the two bushings were parallel to the plate. You can see the longer bushing in the photo above.
OK so now, I fixed the angle plate to the faceplate and bumped it around a bit until the I got a zero reading on the dial indicator.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-23_19-58-40_142.jpg)
Once located, remove the centered bushing and proceed to machine the feature. LEAVE THE OTHER BUSHING IN PLACE AND UNDISTURBED!
Then I bored the pump shaft in the housing, and bored the case for the gear in the same set up. I finished the shaft diameter with a toolmakers reamer after the 1/8 inch bore was drilled and then bored undersize, and then finished to size with the reamer. You have no choice with the 3/8 bore but to bore it to size.
Once complete, I moved the angle plate to sweep in the other bushing, and machined for the idler shaft and gear.
Next I removed the gear housing only and did a very light facing cut on the front housing.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-24_20-28-21_957.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-06-24_20-54-20_803.jpg)
Next I finished the front housing.
Dave
-
Dave,
Thanks for the detail about the toolmakers bushings now I get it.
Dan
-
Nice work as always Dave
Is that an Aciera mill you have :LittleDevil:
Steve
-
YUP! Now that you know...the men in the black suites will be over! :Jester:
She's a sweetheart....and is way out of my league....but I was in the right place at the right time.....at a SWEET price.....the money damn near caught fire on the way out of my pocket! :whoohoo:
Dave
-
Hi Dave
I notice a few minor differences with Hemingway's drawings to the Articles of ETW,
Will you be building to the Articles or Hemingway's plans?
Pete
-
Hi Pete,
I'm building to the article......like what?
Dave
-
I may be wrong but Hemingway's side elevation
looks like it has a bush for the timing cover rather than a oil throw, if so id just like to say the oil throw seems to work very well and oil leaks are far more likely on the pressurised side of the oil pump.
I had to use plumbers tape on all my fittings especially on the pressurised side but there was no sign of a leak from the throw.
Pete
-
Thanks for the heads up Pete! :NotWorthy: I'm sure there are all kinds of perils I'll need to pay attention to....
Dave
-
"the money damn near caught fire on the way out of my pocket! :whoohoo:"
Thats a nice little story Dave. And now the machine has an owner who appreciates it 8)
Steve
-
this build is shaping up very nicely, thanks dave.
chuck
-
Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the interest and support.....I felt like )($(*$ yesterday...maybe I can get some shop time today.
Dave
-
OK, Finally felt good enough to get out in the shop for a couple of hours. I got the shafts for the oil pump done tonight, and made a bushing to locate the bearing holes in the cover, and put in the bearing holes with the bushing and a D-bit.
Turns nice now. I need to tap the inlet and outlet. The plans call for #10-40, and I'll probably use that size thread for the spark plugs so I'll get that tap and die and add it to my collection.
No real drama, other than I need more light in the shop. The eyes aren't what they used to be! :hellno:
Dave
-
I know what you mean about the eyes not being what they use to be I suffer from that also. You oil pump looks nice and you have done some nice work. Looks like an interesting engine we will be watching.
-
No real drama, other than I need more light in the shop. The eyes aren't what they used to be!
I know what you mean. When I first read that, I read "more light in the soup".
It's worse with the hearing. Sometimes what I hear is funny...sometimes she gets upset.
-
..sometimes she gets upset.
Phhahahahahah I think I suffer from that very same thing!!! :cheers:
-
My wife sent me to get my hearing tested! I went through the battery of tests at a very prestiqeous medical center...and the doctor said I have good news and bad news
The good news is you have a little bit of mid range loss in your left ear...but not enough to worry about and otherwise your hearing is normal.
The Bad news is your hearing is normal ! ...... :Lol: He was right!,,,,,that was bad news!
Dave
-
Ordered 10-40 tap and die yesterday... I'll need make a co-bore tool to make a square bottom hole and to spot face the outside surface for a seal washer.
Dave
-
You got it going on there Dave. Watching this Wallaby.
Ray
-
Thanks Ray, The way this week is going, I'll probably update on the weekend.....I work too much!
Dave
-
Ok
I got up early this morning and got to work on the oil pump.
I was able to tap 10-40 using a .156 diameter as a tap drill, even though, the book says it should be .166.
This let me make the hole with an end mill (5/32) and spot face the hole (.25").
I had to deburr the part a bit, but it went back together....I need to shorten the screws....but I'll post a finished photo in a bit.....got the lawn to mow first ::)
Dave
-
OK question to the membership
I don't really want to use a "point" ignition and would prefer an electronic ignition.
Whose should I use?
I can run a two magnet rotor off the camshaft and go from there or use a loss fire system.
Remember you have a Mechanical guy messing with wires......never really a good thing! :slap:
Dave
-
I would go with Roy. He is a great guy to work with and if you need help he works hard to make sure everything works great. He is at the model shows every year.
I have had the basic ignition in the Peewee for about 3 or 4 years now and everything still works great. I did burn out a sensor when I was doing the inital shake down but now that the ignition timing is set and everything is dialed in, the sensors last for years.
http://www.cncengines.com/
-
Thanks for that Steve!
I think I'll just use 2 magnets off the cam and keep the ignition box seperate from everything else. I can shield it easier I think if I ever decide to put this little beasty in a R/C tug of something....
Dave
-
The original plans call for a 3/8 plug! I think I want to use a 10-40 or 1/4-32 plug instead.
Considering the head will be aluminum....I'm thinking maybe 1/4-32 would be a better idea as I think the threads will hold up better...though they're still kinda big...
I think you gave me some advice on this long ago Steve.....so excuse me for asking again.
Dave
-
Alright
Oil pump is complete! ON to the gears!
Damn hot here.....was near 100F yesterday...and 90 plus today...makes the shop pretty miserable....
Dave
-
My wife sent me to get my hearing tested! I went through the battery of tests at a very prestiqeous medical center...and the doctor said I have good news and bad news
The good news is you have a little bit of mid range loss in your left ear...but not enough to worry about and otherwise your hearing is normal.
The Bad news is your hearing is normal ! ...... :Lol: He was right!,,,,,that was bad news!
Dave
Don't worry Dave. It's a common affliction. As women get older, they begin to mumble.
Jerry
-
Thanks for that Jerry! Your Right!
Dave
-
Dave
I've had good success with the ignition system from the Jerry Howell site. I've used the 6V coil
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/coil.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/coil.htm)
and the electronic ignition
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/transistors.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/transistors.htm)
Soldering it together is a piece of cake and you can buy an extra magnet for your two cylinder set up.
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/sensorsmagnets.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/sensorsmagnets.htm)
I don't know how well it compares to other stuff out there as it's the only one I've used. Maybe what Steve Hucks recommended would suit you better. Just another option.
Steve
-
Some Pictures from last night.....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-05_06-31-11_193.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-05_20-24-34_900.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-05_20-24-45_594.jpg)
I motored it on the lathe and it seems to pump oil OK....though I don't know to what pressure....
I'll put some shellac gasket compound on the mating surfaces....
Dave
-
Dave
I've had good success with the ignition system from the Jerry Howell site. I've used the 6V coil
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/coil.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/coil.htm)
and the electronic ignition
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/transistors.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/transistors.htm)
Soldering it together is a piece of cake and you can buy an extra magnet for your two cylinder set up.
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/sensorsmagnets.htm (http://www.model-engine-plans.com/partskits/ignitionsystems/sensorsmagnets.htm)
I don't know how well it compares to other stuff out there as it's the only one I've used. Maybe what Steve Hucks recommended would suit you better. Just another option.
Steve
Thanks for the interest and support Steve.....I'll check on those items too!
Dave
-
OK....starting in on the gears.
I started with the gear blanks. The gears are 32 DP 20 deg PA and 40 tooth. the pinions are 20 tooth.
Starting with the gears
Here's a piece of stock bored to 3/8 and faced.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Wallabygearblank1.jpg)
This is more than enough stock for both gears, so I'll cut them both at the same time. To cut the gears, I'll need to mount the blank on a arbor, so I turned one up. Here it is on the arbor and turned to size.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Wallabygearblank3.jpg)
Here it is ready to go into the dividing head.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Wallabygearblankonarbor.jpg)
I've decided to make cutters the GailNM way. I'll be using his spreadsheet published long ago on the other site. The biggest issue I ran into with this method was how to put relief on the cutter, preferably form relief. I did some literary research and came up with a way that E T Westbury used to do the same....though with a more complicated rig I think.....though I am positive...this is not that original!....hell I thought of it so it must be about 100 years old!
If I mount the cutter blank off center from it's arbor....and put the form on the cutter using the button method, when I mount the cutter in the arbor ON center, I'll have form relief.
So I worked out how far off center I needed to put the blank cutter to get a 6 degree relief angle, and bored a hole in the arbor for my cutter blank. In this case it's a .1875 diameter oil hardening tool steel.
Now using the button method I can cut the flankes of the tooth cutter. Using Gail's spreadsheet I computed the button diameter that corresponds to a standard diameter end mill. I'll use a 3/8 endmill for the big gear.
Here's the cutter in the arbor in the off center position ready to cut the flank radius.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/Cutterblankinmill.jpg)
At this point....It was 90F+ in the shop and about 90% relative humidity......I had enough...couldn't see out the glasses!
I'll finish the cutter tomorrow.....maybe I can cut the gears then.
Dave
-
From Gails spreadsheet, which is based on "Gears and Gear cutting" by Ivan Law. The distance between buttons is .394 and the infeed is .154"
I'll go cut that....and report Additionally I'll be taking .054" off the top to generate the top cutting edge. When installed in the arbor on center, this edge will be directly on center with the arbor.
Dave
PS I"ll take pictures!...... ::)
-
I"ve been following along for a spell now and the gear cutting is some thing I need to try very soon.
I'm reading everything I can find on it. Every post even remotely related and articles too.
Anxiously waiting for more.
Ron
-
Hi Guys
Boy the shop is way cooler early in the morning!
I cut the cutter and started cutting a gear. I think I have an index error, but I'm going to finish the gear regardless.
Making the cutter.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8120011.jpg)
Putting the feed on by turning the dividing head into the cutter.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8120012.jpg)
Checking the fit of the cutter to an existing 32 DP gear....seems good!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8120014.jpg)
The cutter was then hardened in the usual manner of heating to cherry red and quenching in oil. I stoned the top surface to sharpen it.
Cutting the gear blank...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8120018.jpg)
Now it's a 40 tooth gear so the index head is set up for 1 turn/tooth. The pitch appears off though.
I'll have to investigate that...but the cutter cuts very nicely .....so I'll finish this one off with my Son....and see about getting more stock..... :Doh: :cheers:
Dave
-
As far as making the cutter is concerned, once you have an arbor to hold it while you cut it, it's very easy. The arbor in the photo came with my Aciera and has W12 shank, but is machinable.
Additionally, it already had a .1875 diameter hole on center in the end. I just bored a hole 90 degrees off from this and .054 off center to allow for the relief.
I think I could crank out another cutter in about 20 minutes once I have the data from the spread sheet.
Additionaly, I think I could benefit from a pair of half pins to get everything lined up with each other.
Dave
-
Looking good, Dave, but please take that wedding ring off when you're in the shop.
-
Sir! yes Sir! ;D
Marv has a point.....I won't go into what a ring does when it gets caught in a machine.
Dave
-
Dave,
I did not notice the ring. I will not wear a ring or a wrist watch. I did not even buy a class ring from the Academy as I did not want to test my memory or luck.
Nice job on the gears. How did you detect the index error?
Dan
-
Hi Dan,
Thank you for the interest!
I checked it my gear gage set.....didn't match,,,,hmmmmm I have a gear caliper..so I'll measure up and investigate ......I checked the math on the spreadsheet..and it jives, so I suspect I pulled a bone head....that's OK,,,,we all learn something every day.
Dave
-
Well Im officially a grad of bone head U!
One should make sure the part cant rotate before cutting! :slap: :hammerbash:
My son and I cut about twenty more teeth after I tightened it up and it cut very nice!
Took some pictures....ill post later.
Dave
-
Well Im officially a grad of bone head U!
I'm in a different class. I have a lot of work to do to get admitted to yours.
-
I checked it my gear gage set
Dave,
One of my issues with bevel gears is how to inspect them... I checked my Starrett and a few other precision tool books and I am not finding a gear gage set could you post a photo?
Thanks Dan
-
Here's some pictures from our workshop session....staring my son!
Indexing....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-12_14-01-55_364.jpg)
Feeding....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-12_14-19-59_154.jpg)
Checking the part...even though its scrap....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-12_14-43-51_32.jpg)
Here's the "gear gage" I spoke about. It's marked Boston Gear.
It has a wide range of diametral pitch and 14 1/2 - 20 degree pressure angle on two sides.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-12_14-45-15_605.jpg)
And a sketch of the cutter.
On edit....the .154 dimension below should be from the front of the end mill to the end of the cutter...not to the center of the endmill!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-12_14-56-34_196.jpg)
And my Starrett gear verniers....that can't quite reach down to 32 DP
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/P7150064.jpg)
Dave
-
Dave,
Nice set of photos.
I was thinking about a gage like a thread gage but until I saw the photo is did not dawn on me that it is a rack. I can machine a rack :pinkelephant: :cheers:
Dan
-
You could make it like a circular rack....much like Arnolds gear hobs...without the relief cuts.......
Dave
-
I wonder how many 4th graders know how a gear is cut on a mill or what 32 Diametral pitch stands for....let alone doing it for themselves......On an Aciera F1! with a Starrett gear vernier....and a dividing head!
He's got it soft!!! ::).....and I love it!
Dave
-
You could make it like a circular rack....much like Arnolds gear hobs...without the relief cuts.......
Dave
Yep, and then mill 'arf of it away a'la 'D' bit fashion.
Give your young bloke an ONYA from me Dave! :old:
-
I wonder how many 4th graders know how a gear is cut on a mill or what 32 Diametral pitch stands for....let alone doing it for themselves......On an Aciera F1! with a Starrett gear vernier....and a dividing head!
He's got it soft!!! ::) .....and I love it!
Dave
Wonderful to see your son in action :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Your spoiling him with those fancy measuring tools :D
Still, I wish I'd been spoiled like that..........my Dad's teaching methods were more of a :hammerbash: :slap: shall we say direct nature. Spare the rod and spoil the child approach. Gotta say though...........it worked. :cheers:
Best Regards
Bob
-
Looks like you've got him hooked Dave. He's just the right height for operating that mill :Lol:
Steve
-
Ordered some bronze for the new gears.....ouch....It'll be here by the weekend....
Dave
-
Working on the drive bushing for the OIL pump.. I need to put in the 1/8" square drive hole. I'm considering various methods....suggestions anyone?
Broach
two piece insert
Change to a Tab/slot
File it out by hand
Dave
-
Have some one else do it?
I guess that's a pretty lousy suggestion. ;D
-
NO WAY!
Article suggests a file.....
I think I'm thinking about it too much!.....just do it! :zap: ::)
Dave
-
Dave,
I had 3 of those to make on my H&M, 1 in steel, 2 in brass. I drilled them - 1/8" then broached with 1/8" square HSS after rounding off and tapering the leading edge.
Interestingly, after messing about, I found my bench vise was more than adequate and gave me the best control over the broach.
Best Regards
Bob
-
Dave it is great to see you son trying to follow you footsteps. I am still working on my grandsons, but the video games are winning.
Now that I am here I get to see you finish the wallaby. I will be following alone.
Don
-
OK...brainfart
I forgot that I have a toolpost mounted keyway cutter. I forgot that you can make a half round cutter and cut 1 side of the square side hole at a time while indexing the spindle. OK so I had a blank tool that I turned to .109 OD and then with the filing rest cut it to dead center of .0545. I then set the keyway cutter up on my toolpost and brought the tool to the center of the part held in the collet chuck, Got it concentric to the .109 bore and pushed it in, Then moving the cross slide out slowly while reciprocating the tool by hand, I cut .055 out from the center. Then returned to zero and turned the part 90 degrees and repeated the cut.
Once I cut all 4 sides ,,,,it slide right on with no slop! Easy peasy! :whoohoo:
I have pictures.....but Im more interested in a cold IPA at the moment! :DrinkPint:
I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Dave
-
Here's the pictures.....I'm really chuffed when one of my tools solves a difficult problem so easily.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8180022.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8180023.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8180025.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8180026.jpg)
Dave
-
I've seen several posts and threads about making keyways, broaching, or similar.
I can't figure it out.
The part to be cut is in the chuck.
The tool is in the post.
The chuck is not turning.
You just move the carriage in and out to make the cut?
If that's right...what does it feel like? How much pressure?
Is there a video somewhere that shows this?
Really feeling like a dummy here...but had to ask.
-
Zee,
If you look at the second picture above , the tool is held in a reciprocating ram that is moved by a hand lever.
This ram is mounted on my AXA tool post
It strokes in and out of the work. As I stroke the ram in and out of the work, I put feed on the cross slide ...a few thousanths at a time on the cross slide. The tool is in the shape of a "D" with the vertical leg of the "D" facing you.
As I crank the cross slide out, I am reciprocating the tool in and out. It cuts on the in stroke.
Tomorrow, I'll try to put some sketches together that show what is going on.
Dave
-
Good one Dave. Who needs a broach :ThumbsUp:
Steve
-
So it sounds like what I poorly described?
You're moving the cutter in and out (with x changing by a few thou) and the part is stationary.
BTW Do you get any sleep? I see you at 5:30 or 6:00 in the morning and here it is nearly midnight.
I'm surprised I'm up this late. My excuse is watching a movie with one of the daughters.
But I'm off to bed. Today was all about earning my meals...cleaning house...replacing a socket...fixing a faucet leak. Well worth it. Them's good meals!
Tomorrow is machining time!!!
After I earn my next meal. ;D
-
I've seen several posts and threads about making keyways, broaching, or similar.
I can't figure it out.
The part to be cut is in the chuck.
The tool is in the post.
The chuck is not turning.
You just move the carriage in and out to make the cut?
If that's right...what does it feel like? How much pressure?
Is there a video somewhere that shows this?
Really feeling like a dummy here...but had to ask.
Yeah Carl, you pretty much got it - light infeed is the order of the day, but you can do internal and external keyways, splines, gears, all sorts of things using the method. Here's a pic of my lash up, a bit agricultural, but it works a treat.
(http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/49676/2356855260105506259S500x500Q85.jpg) (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2356855260105506259yPPmMk)
-
Wot Tel said!
I index the spindle with my indexing attachment. There are other ways....but it's one of the reasons I made it.
I sleep about 5-6 hours a day.....Welcome to my life.. ::)
Oh buy the way Zee....if your reading it then...your up too ....right?...... :Jester:
Dave
-
A better photo...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8190029.jpg)
Dave
-
A couple of pictures of the attachment might help with the explaination too.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/P9170068.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/P9170067.jpg)
This was built based on an old design I found in ME, which mounted to the cross slide. I thought....what the hell, lets just mount it to the toolpost. It has a 7/8" ram. If you make one...go to 1". It will be much stiffer.
I need to earn my meals today painting my daughters bedroom....pink!.... :hellno: What we do for our kids...... :Lol:
Dave
-
Wow - you've sure shown how useful the AXA can be Dave. I have ambitions to get a slightly bigger lathe, I know how I want to set it up now.
Steve
-
Thanks Steve. I've been working on this for a while. I use the filing rest a lot. The key seat cutter I don't use often, but when you need it,,,,,man is it handy! It took 10 minutes to cut the square,,,,and about 30 minutes to make and harden the cutter....BUT now I have the cutter...so eventually....at my estate sale, there will be a large selection of cutters..... ;D
Dave
-
Thanks Tel and Dave. The pictures are excellent and now I understand.
Odd thing...when I saw Dave's pictures I mostly saw the QC and was still left wondering.
I didn't realize there was more of the picture to the right until I hit the reply button.
When I went back to the thread and scrolled down to the end of the post, then I saw the scroll bar to see the rest of the picture (and your watermark - neat!).
Just mentioning this for others to remember there may be more to the picture than shows.
-
Glad that helped Zee....I'm always torn between resizing a photo...and leaving it large and easy to see....
but if it's alright...I'll resize ....
Dave
-
No need to resize on my account.
It's just confusion on my part. I key off scroll bars and other indicators.
I use different monitors and in some cases the forum may show with a scroll bar and in others not.
So sometimes I automatically think there's more and other times not.
Apologies for the side trip here.
P.S. Please put me on the mailing list for your estate sale. ;D
-
Thanks Dave for the Photos and lesson, I need to make one of those.
Zee I found this on Mikes web site http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/toolpost-slotting-tool.html
I believe it is the same kind Dave was using.
Don
-
Duly penciled in for my estate sale.....put it in my wife's calander!...... :ROFL:
-
OK I announced yesterday that I'd be taking some vacation from work....now!
I'm off for the rest of the week.....I plan on getting some gears cut with my son.....and maybe some work on the boat.
......and some rest........stay tuned to this channel! :LittleDevil:
Dave
-
I am off to get more popcorn.... :DrinkPint:
Dan
-
I am off to get more popcorn.... :DrinkPint:
Dan
Bag of chips, (crisps), for me :Lol:
Best Regards
Bob
-
Tuning in Dave , I guess I be watching the commercials while waiting. :pinkelephant: :bandrock:
Don
-
OK
Viewer participation time.....What's Austrailian for "Bronze Bar Stock".......
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2012-08-21_21-15-54_111.jpg)
:LittleDevil:
don't know if it's enough to two gears though...... ;D
Dave
ps in Massachusetts it's brawnz baah stok....
-
Are you planning on messing up a bunch of them?
Don
-
:ROFL:
Good god I hope not!
Dave
-
Viewer participation time.....What's Austrailian for "Bronze Bar Stock".......
A bonza bit a bronze :o
or just :censored: expensive stuff :stir:
http://www.georgewhite.com.au/products/select_product.asp?category=Bronze (http://www.georgewhite.com.au/products/select_product.asp?category=Bronze)
Steve
-
Phos Bronze
Ali Bronze
Mang Bronze
Gunmetal
And................... last but not least...................Bronze Ozzie Sheila's.
-
:Jester: ...actually the growth lines on the concast bronze alloy roundstock bar material as shown below are similar in a technical concept to growth rings in the heart of a tree trunk :happyreader: .....
The former by length......the latter by girth...... :ThumbsUp: .....Derek
-
Phos Bronze
Ali Bronze
Mang Bronze
Gunmetal
And................... last but not least...................Bronze Ozzie Sheila's.
Oh I think I'm with ya there buddy!
However....it's missing something.....
but.....I think I have the definitive now... :censored: expensive Ozzie Sheila bronze!
There! feels right anyway! :o
No offense Jo..... :mischief:
Dave
-
:Jester: ...actually the growth lines on the concast bronze alloy roundstock bar material as shown below are similar in a technical concept to growth rings in the heart of a tree trunk :happyreader: .....
The former by length......the latter by girth...... :ThumbsUp: .....Derek
I'm with you there Derek....looks turned by a chain drive wallet....... :rant: :hellno:
-
I spent the first day of my vacation sailing model sail boats with my daughter....spending time with my son and painting my daughters bed room......once it was all done...well it was 8 pm
I ran for the shop!
OK ....I took a good look at Sheila....the bronze "bahhh".....13" long....and couldn't bring myself to hack a piece off....knowing full well there would be waste......so I dropped the piece into my Logan...and it went all the way to the bottom of the spindle taper .....about 4 inches of overhang from my 3 jaw chuck....it'll take it I say.. And she did just fine
I parted 2 gear blanks off ready for turning the OD. OK so now I need an arbor.
In hind sight, the wacked together arbor I had was not really up to the task. I really wanted the other end to be supported while I was turning and cutting the teeth. I have a 3/8" arbor for the mill, but at what they cost I didn't want to grab the back end of the W12 shank....I fiquired a 3/8" shank arbor would go into my lathe collet of my mill collet....so I had at making an quality arbor for the task
Here are the parts
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8220031.jpg)
the arbor is 3/8-40 thread and gave me a chance to dial in my die to match my tap.
The wrench flats were cut with my filing rest.
I mounted all this up in the lathe and turned the OD to 1.3125 in preparation for gear cutting.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8220032.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8220033.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8220034.jpg)
Now I can use the overarm for the mill dividing attachment also.....might as well use the tooling I have
Progress.....
Dave
-
Nice work on the
shelia bronze gears Dave
Steve
-
Thanks Steve....I intended to get more done today...but didn't ...oh well. :DrinkPint:
Dave
-
At least I have a good piece of tooling for my shop...
Dave
-
At least I have a good piece of tooling for my shop...
So the future estate sale just keeps getting better Dave? :mischief: :stir:
Steve
-
;D Any progress in the shop is good progress - nice job on the mandrel Dave :ThumbsUp:
Will you have enough clearance on the chuck side of the gear blanks to allow room for the cutter to swing ?
:DrinkPint: Enjoy your holiday!
Kind regards, Arnold
-
;D Any progress in the shop is good progress - nice job on the mandrel Dave :ThumbsUp:
Will you have enough clearance on the chuck side of the gear blanks to allow room for the cutter to swing ?
:DrinkPint: Enjoy your holiday!
Kind regards, Arnold
Plenty...actually, this mandrel is longer than the factory one! .... :ROFL:
Dave
-
Hey, we have ignition on the gears all right. Time for the commercial again. Good start Dave.
Don
-
Thanks Don...I have to do some surgery on my son's RC car later today...but I'll get back into the shop.
Need to rough out the pinion blanks also. I plan on case hardening these.....and one will need a keyway. I get to use my keyway cutter again!..... :pinkelephant: :whoohoo:
Dave
-
OK My son and I cut the 40 tooth gears today and it went off like clockwork. The cutter held up just fine
I need to lighten the gears with recesses and lightening holes....but they seem perfect
I'll post some pictures shortly
Dave
-
I'll post some pictures shortly
You're such a tease. ;D
-
OK My son and I cut the 40 tooth gears today and it went off like clockwork.
Clockwork, gears? Heeeeeey how about this for an idea?
-
Tel....you didn't stay up all night thinking of that one...did ya? :o
.......... ;D
-
Sorry Zee....ran out of steam! 8)
My son putting on the feed....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8230035.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8230036.jpg)
And Complete...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8230037.jpg)
Dave
-
Tel....you didn't stay up all night thinking of that one...did ya? :o
.......... ;D
Most of it - or that might have been the arthritis in me shoulder!
-
Ah gee Tel... :embarassed:..Sorry to hear that buddy...Are you being looked after for that?
Dave
-
Here's a couple of photo's of one of the gears in its ultimate home.....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8240039new.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8240040new.jpg)
-
This little engine is built rugged...that's a lot of gear for a pump...
Dave
-
That's looking good Dave.
Vince
-
Thanks Vince! The plans call for hardened or chromed crank and camshaft. I can harden the cam shaft easily enough....but I may just hard chrome the crank....This thing is designed rugged....though as a model locomotive engine...I guess it needs to be right?
Dave
-
I got the recesses on the side of the gears done today. I decided to mount the camshaft on ball bearings with bronze mounting cups.
These bearing cups are conspicuously absent on the article....so I'll document them and put them here...along with my version...
Dave
-
Hey, you snuck this in when I wasn't paying attention. Ohhh! Those are looking good. Did you make them or did your son make them? Bet he had a lot to do with them didn't he?
Dave was that a hobbing machine you made those with?
Don
-
I missed that too. The gears look great Dave. Fly cutter worked a treat!
Steve
-
Hi Don and Steve
Thanks for the support! I made those on my Aciera F1. It's a small milling machine and the the cutter is a custom made flycutter.
Dave
-
Here's a write up on the Aciera F1
http://www.lathes.co.uk/aciera/index.html
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
I clicked on that link just before turning in.... I was dreaming of one of those mills all night.
Man I am green :disappointed: with tool envy. I have seen one or two of those on the bay but no where near what I can afford.
How much of the tooling do you have?
Dan
-
OOw! I want one, that is a nice piece of machinery Dave. Looks very expensive. How did you manage to procure one?
Don
-
Hi Guys,
I've seen them go for silly money on the Bay....NO I didn't pay that!
My good friend is a gunsmith. He happened upon this at an auction some time a go, and due to size, no one wanted it. He bit and got if for a song. So it spent a couple of years in his shop. What he found was it was JUST too small for doing upper slide work on pistols. When he rearranged the shop, he asked if I wanted to buy it. He said.....$1000.....I bit down hard!
I don't have the tilt swivel table, the tilting swiveling spindle mount, the manual rotary table or the shaper head...but I have everything else...and all english arbors and collets. I'm told the dividing head with plates is very rare....I also have the indexing head and plates, tilt swivel vice, fixed table, and a phase converter. The original sales slip for the machine in 1973 was $17500.....! or the cost of three or four new cars!
It's a nice "little" mill......but expensive as all hell to tool! You end up making things for it....I can't afford to do otherwise.
The manual rotary table which would be perfect for rounding rod ends ect...consistently goes for $2000 on the bay when they show up.
There's a ill tooled F1 on the bay at the moment for $11K! :o
For that money...I'd buy a full CNC Bridgeport!....with tooling!
Dave
-
I like that, that's what you call being at the right place at the right time. I'm jealous, even without all the tooling you still have a well equipped piece of machinery Dave.
Don
-
Thanks Don.....I was glad to be one of "those" guys who was in the right place at the right time....once!
Seems before that I NEVER ......EVER was that guy!.......probably won't be again either! :Lol: :Lol:
-
OK the big gears are done!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8270041.jpg)
Next I'll rough out the blanks for the pinions out of some old southbend machinery steel shafting.... a bit of recycling.
An I haven't forgotten Jo....I'll show how I put flats on a hex head with my filing rest....as promised.
And browny points for resizing this in FastStone....! ;D
Dave
-
Dave,
nice looking gear and square drive. :ThumbsUp:
Dan
-
Thanks Dan....that square drive gave me heart burn for a bit.....but in the end it wasn't that bad.
Dave
-
That's a nice gear Dave, I want to see how you make the pinion.
Don
-
Thanks for the interest and support Don!
Here's the blanks for the pinions
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P8270042.jpg)
Jo, here's some previous photo's of a build I did way back when using the filing rest to make hex head screws.....too tired tonight to stage a part for photo's These screws are domed headed with an integral washer. Because of that I had to flip them for making the hex. With a standard hex head bolt, I don't even need to part off. I cut the head first than part off.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Seadog%20build/P1020139.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Seadog%20build/P1020140.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Seadog%20build/P1020141.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Seadog%20build/P1020141-1.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Seadog%20build/P1020144.jpg)
These are 5-40. I'll be using that size for the sump on the Wallaby.
You can see that the safe edge is stopped by the flange on the roller.
Dave
-
Those gears certainly look the part, and nice bolts too. I gotta set my lathe up so I can do that, already have the indexing up and running.
Anyway you should take holidays more often Dave. Look at all the stuff you can get done :DrinkPint:
Steve
-
Thanks Steve! Like I said....with 6 or so and especially small screws....I think I can file the flats quick...but If I'd had to make a lot of them....Jo's method ...or some other mechanized method is far more practical....
When I have my SB in full song.....I'll show you what I mean....
Dave
-
I haven't been able to get that filing rest out of my mind. Guess I'll have to make one some day.
-
I'm glad that part is behind me! Metalmad did a great job of this on the "other" place.....my hats off to him! That's a tough bit and he made it look easy!
An excellent job Pete!
:NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Dave
-
Those are mighty big stops on your filing rest Dave. When you make little bolts do you not find having to stick the material out to provide sufficient clearance that the stock bends? :naughty:
Ok I am now confused: Are you doing the heads before the threaded end?....... read it again I can see what you were doing now :embarassed:.
Jo
-
No worries Jo! Yes getting the part to hold together seems troubling...but #5-40 is pretty good size...about 5BA...
My SouthBend will be different though!........THAT will be the fast way ....I think,,,,
Dave
-
5BA :o that is a monster,I can see why you would have no problem with the stock bending ;D.
Jo
-
I think I got that right.... the bolt diameter is .125" I think 5BA is .127.......I think
-
5BA = 3.2mm or 1/8" in old money.
Jo
-
YUP
If you go up to the post on the filing rest, you will find a spreadsheet attached on BA comparison...... .126 .....close enough!
Dave
-
stud manufacture in the future.....
(http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh516/mcandrew1894vids/th_2012-04-21_21-17-32_23.jpg) (http://s1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh516/mcandrew1894vids/?action=view¤t=2012-04-21_21-17-32_23.mp4)
-
Hi Dave,
I have one of those for my SB heavy 10. I guess I am lucky as it is to high and I will have to learn scraping.
What type of die head do you have? I have a releasing acorn style with 5/8" dies.
Dan
-
:wallbang:
I want one of those!....but I haven't found one yet at a reasonable price. I'd like a geometric head that releases.........Christmas is coming ::) ::)
Dave
-
Dave - a left field option is a variable frequency drive (VFD), that would make a great stand in for a splitting die holder. Go in reverse at higher speed to get the die off :thewhip:
You can make a knurled floating die holder that you can let go of when you come up to a shoulder. That's all you need for threads of around 1/4" or less. I do nearly all my die threading under power.
A VFD is so good, if you have your lathe on the fast pulley and set the VFD to extra slow it's easy to stop the lathe with your hand, which can come in handy on occasion. You can always slow it down conventionally if you need the extra torque. Being able to go from fast turning to slow threading or reaming with the twist of a pot is hard to beat.
Fantastic for screw cutting. Slow the lathe down when you come close to the end of the thread and go extra fast in the middle. If you want to reverse with the half-nuts left in, speed it up then slow it down. I usually have my lathe on a pulley setting such that I can go from 100 to 1000 RPM by twisting the pot. You could comfortably get a bigger range than that too.
Steve
-
Not so left field! I may end up with that...it'll be cheaper than the dedicated tooling as I can use button dies.
Dave
-
stud manufacture in the future.....
(http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh516/mcandrew1894vids/th_2012-04-21_21-17-32_23.jpg) (http://s1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh516/mcandrew1894vids/?action=view¤t=2012-04-21_21-17-32_23.mp4)
I have something similar that came off an Pultra that has been made to fit a (my) Myford S7, plans are to convert it to fit my Prazimat :Love: . But the Myford has a clutch, which is the only reason why she is still in the workshop. :-\.
Jo
-
Alright!
Made a 5/16" arbor for the pinions this morning with 1 spacer and a nut (5/16-40). More tooling for the F1!
I need to make the cutter later today.
Dave
-
Hey, we are back again no commercials this time. Glad to see you back on track Dave. I want to see you make these pinions.
Don
-
Thanks Don! I'm all over it!
Dave
-
Dave,
I have no trouble carrying out power threading with dies, even down as small as 2mm, but I can't do the heads with a filing rest as I have no easy way of indexing. That is what I miss about my old Atlas, the bull wheel had 60 holes in it and a locking pin built in.
It is always the same when you change lathes, you win on some things and lose on the other.
I now have plans for lots of tooling to be made, and one of them is a self centring chuck for the tailstock, that will be able to keep reamers, taps and dies spot on.
John
-
I had an Atlas too John! A 10F....Mid 40's and I miss that index pin too!
I am going to add the 60 hole pattern to the pulley and set up a bench mounted index pin.
Dave
-
Well.....I smoked the cutter! got greedy
The F1 has a two speed gearbox....direct drive and back gear
1000 2500 4000 Direct drive
125 250 500 back gear
I wasn't fond of running her in top back gear....so I tried bottom direct drive.....toooooooo fast
Time to make another cutter. :hellno: I'm getting pretty good at making them anyway. :Lol:
Dave
-
Dave
Sorry to hear that but as they say : "Practice makes Perfect". ;)
Vince
-
Yup!
-
Is the one you smoked also a flycutter?
Steve
-
Yup.....hence my reluctance to run in top back gear with an interupted cut.....Aciera F1 back gears can't be found at Home Depot.....
Dave
-
Aha - breaking them wouldn't be
good cheap good :zap:
Steve
-
Yes Custom made Unobtainium steel gears crafted by the trolls of the Swiss alps....somehow sounds pricey to me....... :noidea:
Dave
-
Gear up as they say, go thing you do know how to make another. Tough luck Dave, but practice makes pefect like Vince said. So I guess it will be awhile before the pinions get done. So show us how you make another cutter, that would be interesting.
Don
-
Sure Don....tomorrow. I should get through the gears then also....famous last words.... :Doh:
Dave
-
OUCH! I only run at about 350/400 rpm for gear cutting, and that's with commercial cutters!
-
I more or less take the recommended fpm for carbon steel with a HSS cutter so for Drill Rod halve it. I don't reckon any of my machines are rigid enough for production cutting speeds. Then again I'm just a nervous nellie.
Best Regards
Bob
-
Ya I know guys .....see responses above....I added some oil...but NO WAY!....at least not in steel
40 fpm ....is real!
Dave
-
OK
Gashing the gear first makes a big difference! I took a .020 saw and gashed the teeth. Then made up a new cutter with a cutter radius of about .38".
I set the speed to 250 rpm...which is 3.14159 x 2 x .38 x 250 / 12 = 49 fpm.
It seems very happy taking full depth of cut of .0707"....
I'll let you know how I make out
Dave
-
It's manual feed....and slow....I left the tool dead hard....I didn't draw the temper...I suspect the first pass would do that just fine.....
I have a copious supply of oil on it while cutting .....
Dave
-
Hope you don't mind the questions...
What is 'gashed the teeth'?
To 'draw the temper'...is that to make less hard?
Thanks
-
A slitting saw was used to cut a gap before the profile cutter so the home made tool will survive a full trip around the gear if all goes well.
I hope all goes well.
Dan
-
I think he meant 'gnashing the teeth makes ......' I know it helps when I do 'em! ;)
-
That's what I meant Tel....
Here's some photos
The Gnashed teeth as I started to finish them with the flycutter
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P9030043.jpg)
The finished product.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P9030045.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/P9030044.jpg)
You'll notice the ring is removed.....
Dave
-
Yeah, I knew what you meant. Nice job on the gears tho - gashed or gnashed! ;D
And shall cast them into a furnace of fire: there shall be wailing and gnashing of teeth.
Matthew 13:42
-
Hope you don't mind the questions...
What is 'gashed the teeth'?
To 'draw the temper'...is that to make less hard?
Thanks
I think I answered the gnashed teeth question.
Drawing the temper is something you usually do with a hardenable steel. In this case ...0-1
When first quenched, the hardness is considered "full hard" and is about 64 Rc.....harder than woodpecker lips!
It is also, generally speaking...brittle at this hardness. So generally you draw the temper.
To draw the temper, one generally polishes the newly hardened part to bright finish. Then , using a torch or an oven, the part is slowly heated and the change in color of the part....specifically the cutting edge of the part!...is noted. It will start with a very light straw, to straw and progress to blue as the temperature rises. As this tempering temperature rises, the hardness of the part decreases and the toughness increases.
For a cutting tool, A light straw at the cutting edge is correct. Here's the problem though
This part is made of .187" diameter drill rod.....It will change temperature VERY rapidly...and if you go too far, the tool is too soft to use. You can get a couple of trys....but that's about it.
In this case, the section of the tool is fairly stout....the cut is not deep, if I go easy the increase in temperature in the cut zone will be enough to temper the part, so I just stone the edge and use it as is.
Horses for courses....and some tools you really can't get away with this...but I figuired I could with this.. and it worked fine.
Dave
-
Thanks Tel and Dave.
Yep, understandable.
Yep.
;D
-
I need to make a broach now to cut the 1/16 keyway. I get to use my keyway cutter again! :whoohoo:
Dave
-
Nice job on the pinions Dave, you have been busy. Great come back on the fly cutter too. I will have to try my hand at cutting some gears. I want to make a set for cutting mm threads. My lathe is equipped with imperial cutting gears.
Don
-
Thanks Don! I wouldn't have been able too without GailNM. His spreadsheet is a great tool!
A 37/47 cluster works very well as a metric transposition set. It only has a .0002" millimeter error...so really it's better than most lathes.
Zee, no such thing as a bad question friend....Don't mind questions at all...by all means!
Dave
-
Looks great Dave, was just reviewing how you made the flycutter way back on page 4, some handy info there.
The 37/47 cluster is a good one. Given suitable other change gears you can do a fair bit with a 21 tooth gear, upon recognising that 63/80 is extremely close to 100/127; 21 being a factor of 63.
Steve
-
Dave I had made a spread sheet to calculate spur gears and checked it against on line calculators and it is spot on. The problem I have is my Myford is a screw cutting lathe. Not being very familiar with all of this. I am having trouble calculating the gears because of the change gear box. There is a chart inside the cover for metric and I have the manual but it is still difficult of me to absorb. The spindle gear is 30T, the tumbler reversing gears are 28/30, the tumbler sleeve gears are 24/30, the first stud gears are 19/57, the second stud gears are 19/57 and the lead screw gear is 72. Confusing enough the quick change gearbox to boot. As it is I can cut threads in imperial measurement and have. But not metric yet.
Don
-
Don,
The chart inside the Myford change wheel guard refers to use of the metric conversion set. If you have not got a metric conversion set it is possible to cut the missing gears but you will also need a replacement change wheel quadrant (the bracket the gears mount on) as it is a different shape to allow for the gear clusters, see top left on page 51 of the manual. The last page in your Myford manual identifies the original metric conversion set, the later set (which I have) has 13 change gears in it.
For the silly money they sell for it could be worth making your own conversion set :ThumbsUp:.
Jo
-
Jo my chart says I need 30T for the lead screw, tumbler stud gear goes from 28/30 which I have,to 35,40,45,55 and 60. Then it shows 1st stud 60T and 63T, 2nd stud 45T and 50T. This tells me I need a bunch of gears. The page in my book is page 31. The book I have is for the Super 7 without the quick change gear box. At least in don't see it. I also have the Ian Bradley series 7 manual. None of them show the quick change gear box.
Don
-
...... The book I have is for the Super 7 without the quick change gear box. ...... None of them show the quick change gear box.
Don
That explains why the table in the book is confusing you, the chart in the book it is for the standard change wheel set. The S7B manual has parts list at the back which covers the quick change box and the conversion set.
-
That is what I have and thanks Jo, the last page of the book shows all the gears the chart is showing.
Thanks don
-
I also went online and found a 712V manul for my gearbox and it shows all I need. I believe I will forget about metric thread for now. To many parts to change out. Thanks Jo and Dave.
Don
-
Still need to make a 1/16" cutter for the key way cutter....focusing on the SB this week.....patience....
Dave
-
Still need to make a 1/16" cutter for the key way cutter....focusing on the SB this week.....patience....
Dave
A cut down jigsaw blade in a bit of bar will do the job.
-
Thanks Tel! I'll keep that one in mind.
Dave
-
A cut down jigsaw blade in a bit of bar will do the job.
I like that idea :ThumbsUp:
I wonder :thinking: taking your idea further... if you got a junior hacksaw blade and cut it into a number of short sections and put them together side by side, fitted into a shallow tapered slot....
Jo
-
Don't see why not...if you have a junior hacksaw blade.
I'll get a chance to do more on the beasty this weekend coming...once I'm done with lathe beds .....and verification and test protocals at work! :hellno:
Dave
-
Not much going on here .....i'm up to my eyes in work and South bend....winter is coming!
Dave
-
winter is coming!
Dave
Here it's going, we are 1/3 of the way through spring :ThumbsUp:
Bob
-
Well good afternoon!
Getting back i.to this project now. Give me a day or two.....
Dave
-
In my best Yankee imitation; Yo, we're wait'n over here. Really drag out the here; Almost, well exactly like Andrew Dice Clay or a Kennedy :lolb: :LittleDevil: :lolb:
Love U'ns All,
Eric
-
like Andrew Dice Clay or a Kennedy....!......?!!!!!
Now Eric....I'm not sure of the recording quality of the tape you listened to.....but...
Think of me as Yankee.....but far from Kennedy!....I know it's only 50 miles to Boston...but it might as well be 1000!
Dave
-
A thousand is good. Three thousand is a lot bettah.
-
youus gotta work on dat spelin Marv!.....Bettah?
-
I know it's only 50 miles to Boston...but it might as well be 1000!
:ROFL:
I don't mean to be off topic...
One of the things we noticed when we moved out here (PA from MO):
1) We ask 'are you from around here?"
2) They'd say "no".
3) "ah...where're you from?"
And invariably (it seems) they're from within 100 miles of here.
Back home...you'd have to be a couple states away. At least past a state line.
At the very least...you'd have to sound or look a little different.
I've never asked people around here what they think the distance is for 'over yonder' or 'up the road a piece'. Probably get a fraction of a mile. For us it's "not too far" yet far enough to make people think they missed it.
:lolb:
Looking forward to seeing that Wallaby Dave.
4)
-
Hey Zee!
I think my outlook on life varies wildly from a certain political family....to say nothing of my accent...though I do have a "Massachusetts" accent, it more Yankee Farmer...instead of Cape Cod socialite....
I got the sump drilled for the bolts tonight! :whoohoo:.....and squared up the feet. Progress!
Dave
-
Here's a photo....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-18_23-08-11_369_zpsd68bb692.jpg)
Dave
-
Some movement Dave, and you seem to have successfully bypassed any winter shop time :stir: :Lol:
Nice to see ya picking this one up again mate
Steve
-
Thanks Steve! This winter has been a hell of busy and stressful one. My Son was pretty sick. We seem to have gotten throught the worst of it...just real busy.
Getting this going again will be good therapy!
Dave
-
Got the clearance holes drilled in the sump. Now I can seperate the two ( they are super glued together).
Mark out the cylinder centers to define the centerline...probably with a wood plug.....and
Next I need to make the bearing caps and mount them, then finish the bottom end sides to match. 3/8" wide bearing caps with 1" in between.
Then I'll need to set up on the lathe and bore the main bearings in the block and bearing caps.
As the week progresses.....I dug out the ladder too...to hang up some more lights in the shop....Can't see a damn thing..... :old:
Dave
-
I dug out the ladder too...to hang up some more lights in the shop....Can't see a damn thing.....
Oh that's why there's no pics. Well get those lights up man! You know the priorities around here. ;D
-
I've been itching to be following along with this one again Dave.
Bez
-
I've been itching to be following along with this one again Dave.
Bez
Me Too!
Dave
-
Note to self....when milling several parts in a row on the same mother piece of stock...don't do the math in your head.....or you get to practice making the same bearing caps again..... >:(
:lolb:
Oh Well....the new DRO works but I wish it had multiple zero datums....
Dave
-
Rest assured, Dave, you are the first and only guy to make that arithmetic in your head error! And the last one, too. :hammerbash: :hammerbash: :whoohoo: Good practise, though.
-
Note to self....when milling several parts in a row on the same mother piece of stock...don't do the math in your head.....or you get to practice making the same bearing caps again..... >:(
:lolb:
Oh Well....the new DRO works but I wish it had multiple zero datums....
Dave
Good lesson Dave, the new DRO have multiple datum s....
Don
-
Got a bit of stuff done today!
Here's the embryonic caps....made right this time.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_17-53-58_616_zps748fa4c1.jpg)
Seperating from the mother stock
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_18-09-36_104_zps8f967645.jpg)
And done
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_18-13-30_526_zpsc2d735d1.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_18-13-51_955_zps731ed631.jpg)
I set up the block casting after I finished the sump bolt pattern and seperated the sump from the block and kissed each end just enough to get a clean centerline all the way around. I then set up on the center line and laid out the main bearing cap bolt holes....just little divits with a center drill...I want to make sure there is meat where I need it....it appears to be where it needs to be.
You'll notice the paper packing on the left. I'll come over and kiss the ends of the mounting feet after the holes are drilled to get the ends of the feet parallel to the main bearings
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_19-18-39_775_zps29938c0e.jpg)
I'll be doing more later....got to feed the chillins....
Dave
-
OH and another thing
I left the bearing caps at 1/2 inch wide. The finished width is 3/8". I will be bolting them on, and taking a cut on the mill to get the crank case bays the right width and the ends of the caps and block flush with each other.
Dave
-
Good to see your back to the Wally
-
Thanks Steve....still getting used to the Clausing...but it really is suited very well to small work...which is why I went with it.
Using small taps with it is super easy.
Here's a shot of the holes going in. This is how I keep the small taps and dies. The box is readily available, and I put the tap drill and clearance drill in the box along with the tap and die. I also put a label on the cover listing the tap and drill size.... so I can always check them before I use them. It works great!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-23_20-43-38_884_zps745f4883.jpg)
The drills are screw machine drills, which are very short..and are also readily available.
Dave
-
Looking good bud, glad to see some more progress. I like your die and tap box. I use one with top and bottom lids and multi compartments it holds taps, die and drill bit all ready to go. One small box holds all the small taps Dies and drill bit. You can get them at an electronic supply house very cheap. They are also good for the small screw sizes.
Don
-
Need to make some Studs......5-40.....
8)
Dave
-
Dave
It.s good to see you back on the Wallaby. :cheers:
Will be following your progress.
Vince
-
More progress and the new mill up and going.
It's all happening Dave :pinkelephant:
Steve
-
Dave,
Vince and Steve's sentiments too. In Australia, 'on the Wallaby' refers to being on a (rough) journey. Happy travels, and as they say, take the rough with the smooth!
Hugh.
-
Thanks guys! It's coming....I'll see if I can get some more done today...I may have some kid duty...but we'll see.
Dave
-
It is great to you back in production after all of the work you went through!
Nice mill, too.
Mosey
-
Thanks Mosey.... I need to make some 5-40 studs for the bearing caps. I should have done that first....but..
I'll leave the block set in the machine....I took a skim cut across the ends of 1 pair of feet, and kissed the ends to square them up to the bearing axis. So I have a datum to progress to boring on the lathe.
....but it ties up the mill until the studs are done.
I need to make a pair of parallels to mount the block on an angle plate....you guys remember that one...the one I scraped flat.
Dave
-
Hi Dave
I'm enjoying your build of the Wallaby; great step by step as so many of the model engineers here on MEM do.
Thanks for the update; also it is good to see you working on an engine again :whoohoo:
Dave
-
Thanks Dave....I'm glad too...and the Mill is so much easier to use for work such as this as compared to "Norm".
I can go much faster with the DRO ...and drilling and taping holes is a simple process....the quill is really key here.
Granted the Clausing can't plow through tool steel with abandon...but I don't do that very often...
It's the "right size" for model engine work...and my shop... :pinkelephant:
Dave
-
Bearing cap studs and nuts......
I'm thinking 0-1 annealed.
What do you think?....let me know I want to order tomorrow.
Dave
-
OK....0-1 it is
Dave
-
Glad we could help! ;)
-
Gotta keep the momentum......
Dave
-
The 1/8" and 1/4" round stock will arrive tomorrow. I have figured my stud lengths and I'm going to do a heavy nut.
Good work for the son....I'll see if I can put him to work on that.
Dave
-
Got the stock but no time.....perhaps tonight
I have 28 studs to make...all 5-40 but different lengths.
I'll be putting my Son on making nuts with a gang mill on the Aciera. He's looking forward to it!....he gets to use the indexing head again!
Dave
-
Way to go pal. I'm glad to see you back in the shop, but, I'm even more happy to see you have your son with you. He will learn so many things that will help in latter life, and the best part is he won't even know he's learning them and that's the lessons that will stick with him.
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
Well not tonight...but this weekend for sure.....Thanks for the interest Eric!
We'll be fine
Dave
-
I set up the Aciera and showed my son what to do....what not to do...and how to be safe.....then I set him to it...HE DID A GREAT JOB!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-30_11-06-34_158_zps01d5d68f.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-30_11-06-42_419_zps230d8073.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-30_11-06-57_715_zps87aacf25.jpg)
Next step...make a thin parting tool and finish them off...2 each blank.
I've got the studs for the mains made....I needed to size the die to get a good fit...so took a bit of fiddling...I need to make 22 more!
Dave
-
Good job guys. There was never a doubt in my mind that y'all couldn't do it. But, uh, Dave. If you gonna let him wear that Haaaaavad shirt in the shop, put a few stains and a couple of holes in it :lolb:
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
Good job guys. There was never a doubt in my mind that y'all couldn't do it. But, uh, Dave. If you gonna let him wear that Haaaaavad shirt in the shop, put a few stains and a couple of holes in it :lolb:
Yo Redneck,
Eric
I'm working on it! 8)
-
I set up the Aciera and showed my son what to do....what not to do...and how to be safe.....then I set him to it...HE DID A GREAT JOB!
Did you show him how to take a lot of pics? You could use some help there. :lolb:
Seriously though...it's great to have a son or daughter interested in what you do.
Teaching is one of the most satisfying and rewarding activities.
-
OK....pictures of studs coming......
;D
Dave
-
OK....pictures of studs coming......
? Thought we had one.
-
If you'd like, I can talk to him about benefits, 401K, unemployment Insurance, you know all of the worker rights.
-
OK....pictures of studs coming......
? Thought we had one.
He's here all week folks! Try the meatloaf!....oh and tip the waitress.......
Dave
-
If you'd like, I can talk to him about benefits, 401K, unemployment Insurance, you know all of the worker rights.
Great...now he want's a raise!
-
Mosey, Zee, don't you think we should start him a tool list for a box of his very own. Oh yeah and the box too. I think it should be a real nice vintage Gerstner. After all he is starting out on an Aciera. 8). I want to hear what his mother says the first time he says; Mom, I found this lathe :lolb:
Yo Redneck
Eric
-
You laugh!....he just got his first Starrett Micrometer!....though it's in MY box for now...
Dave
-
Hahvahd!? A smart, talented kid like that with a doting dad like you can set his sights a lot higher than some liberal diploma mill like Hahvahd.
-
Dave-
You are so lucky that your son has an interest. My nine year old doesn't and it kills me, but he's not me. I have to let him be himself. The Pinewood Derby is 4/5/13 and he will be lucky if he has a car. I refuse to build it for him. I will help him in anyway I can, but I won't build it. Last year he was the only boy in the Pack who did not race and he was okay with it. I can't relate, at that age I would have cut off my arm to have my dad help me build the car. I don't think anyone else's dad in the pack is setup like we are, but he has no desire. You are very fortunate. Cherish the time with him in the shop.
-Bob
-
Doesn't Starrett still make that beginners set, you know the Gerstner box full of a complete set of tools? We know how close you are to them.
At the least we can send the kid a Starrett catalog so he can be ready for Christmas, or is he getting paid in chits now?
Seriously, Dave, you are a lucky fellow to have a little machinist in training in your shop to teach, and he is lucky to have a Dad like you.
Enjoy every second of it. Too soon, he will discover the ruination of all good things...g..rls! But that is another hobby.
:stir: :stir: :pinkelephant: :pinkelephant:
Mosey
-
Hahvahd!? A smart, talented kid like that with a doting dad like you can set his sights a lot higher than some liberal diploma mill like Hahvahd.
Ahhh....it works for a shop shirt though!
Dave
-
Dave,
I don't think anything is more important than your working with him. It will be something you both cherish down the road. He's a lucky kid in spite of the difficulties.
M.
-
Here ya go Zee....I've got 4 nuts done...this photo only shows 1...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-30_19-34-13_723_zps3395c4a9.jpg)
The interface surface finish looks horrible in this photo...I don't know why...it isn't....what you get with a droid I guess
dave
-
Dave,
I don't think anything is more important than your working with him. It will be something you both cherish down the road. He's a lucky kid in spite of the difficulties.
M.
Thanks Mosey...
-
finished the nuts...and cut the caps/block to width. The cores are off about .030..so the center openings are about 1.03 instead of 1 so that they would clean up. but not much drama
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-31_11-34-14_511_zps31d6a37e.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-03-31_11-34-28_864_zpsc814c6b1.jpg)
I made a nut driver from a 1/4-20 SHCS to drive the nuts home in the caps.......I then screwed the pooch on the timing gear cover boss...and undercut it :rant:
Good news is...the surface is not structural...just oil seal between the case and the block...so I built it up with some JB Weld...and I'll machine it back properly.....all will be well.
Next up ...bore the mains......then the cylinders bores for the liners. The Clausing is doing real well ...and is holding .001 without too much trouble...so I'll bore it with a boring head and the knee.....and see how it goes.
-
Nice going. Do you prefer the knee to the spindle for boring?
When I went to buy my Clausing, at the end of a 100 mile drive for a machine that was "perfect", the guy had an old junk vice clamped to the table. I asked to remove the vice and guess what? There was a helicopter landing pad right in the middle of the table. Not too deep. So I brought it home anyway. Doesn't affect the work, just hurts when I see it. I have never kissed a mill table. Not even a scratch. Keep up the good work.
M.
-
The quil has 3" of travel...I need 3 5/16"...... :hellno:
So I'll raise the knee.
-
Looking good from here Dave, and I perfer using the knee to using the quill. Fact is my DRO is on the knee anyway.
-
Thanks Don! ....While I wait for the JB to harden up...I'll scroung around for a block of aluminum for the head and maybe square it up
Dave
-
Squared up a block for the head.....ill spare you the picture...
Im laying out the head in cad tomorrow to plot the cuts for the cooling jackets.
dave
-
Looking good there Dave :ThumbsUp:
:Lol: Seems the Droid wants to highlight the mechanical properties; maybe it's jealous.
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Well...here's what the process will be...starting with a squared block
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image001_zpsae93ebda.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image002_zps95172210.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image003_zpsedffb263.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image004_zps031e6adf.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image005_zps843f6ec3.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image008_zps357d708f.png)
These next two will be used to make a fixture to radius bore the ports with a ball mill
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image009_zps1af775cf.png)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image010_zpsbec8bcd2.png)
Thats the plan!
Dave
-
Well, them is some real purty piccys, now how bout some parts? :lolb: :lolb:. Even Jo can "draw up some parts in them there fancy draw'n programs. :lolb: :lolb:. Boy, I'm full of it tonight. Video Please!
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
Hey Dave!
Radius bore with a ball mill! What you talkin' 'bout?
Jerry
-
Hey Dave!
Radius bore with a ball mill! What you talkin' 'bout?
Jerry
Ahhh...perhaps he's on to my cunning plan!....you can't bore a curved hole he says!.....are ya sure? :stir: :mischief:
All will be revealed!...
Dave
-
Yeah! That's what I thought you meant. Watching closely. I understand the process but the setup will worth seeing.
Jerry
-
I will be mounting the head to a fixture plate that puts the center of the arc of the passage at the center of a rotary table. I will then modify a ball endmill by grinding back the shank leaving the hemispherical end on a long skinny shank...I'll drill through undersize...to give some chip clearance...and then mill the passage on the rotary table....that's the plan at least....
Eric....with parts like this...I like having a process sheet planned out...in this case, I did that by adding features to a squared up block...so I'm modeling the same way I'm making it...lets me plan things out for different set ups....in a 100 years or so, with some practice... I'll be like George and make it all look so easy ::) :cheers:
Dave
-
And technically...I need to put the valve cages in before I cut the intake and exhaust passages.
The intake is siamesed to a common 1/2-40 threaded port....in the middle of the head...
Finicky part!....I'm looking forward to the crank!
Dave
-
Looking good Dave. What CAD program are you using?
Steve
-
This one is Solidworks....lunchtime engineering project....
Dave
-
Dave-
What you want is a Lollipop Cutter if you can find one at a reasonable price.
-Bob
-
Dave-
What you want is a Lollipop Cutter if you can find one at a reasonable price.
-Bob
Bob
That is a cool tool. It might be easier to make one of those out of drill rod than to grind a ball end mill to shape.
Jerry
-
I'm thinking inexpensive 2 flute and grind it back...I can spend $100+ for a lollipop...and they are available....but kinda pricey
Dave
-
Sounds like a job for your cutter grinder ;D
Jo
-
Yea...but the cutter grinder needs work too ::)....and I only need to grind it back....for clearance....I'll just do it on the belt sander.
Dave
-
I got a chance to work in the shop and I have the mains roughed to 1/2". The finished bore diameter is .563"
I have to make up a boring bar to finish it off.. I want to inspect the location of the rough bore as it might be about .010 out of position...but I have a chance to make that right when I bore it to final size.
Here's some progress shots
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-02_20-42-38_407_zps7aaa0121.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-02_20-43-04_775_zps7bc003d5.jpg)
Dave
-
Brings back memories.
-
OH and how I did it
I started with a 5/16 2 flute end mill. I plunged thru the first two bearings, then installed a 5/16 drill and ran it through.
Next, I did the same thing with a 1/2" end mill and then 1/2" drill.
I'll be making up a single point boring bar to finish it all off.
Dave
-
Nice job Dave, I see you are finally making some progress. I am curious about the single point boring bar in how you go about it. Will you be using the lathe or mill?
Don
-
I've trammed the block in pretty well...my angle plate...which I bought and then scraped flat and square is holding it nicely! I have to admit that I'm more than a bit chuffed that its working that well.
I think I'll be boring it right where it is on the mill.
Additionally, I'll do the camshaft bore with the same set up...it's there!
Dave
-
And Don....I'll show you what I mean about the boring bar when I make it up....lots of pictures I promise.
Dave
-
Did you like the package I sent.
Don
-
Yes I did!....
Thanks!
Did you get my email?
Dave
-
No I didn't get an email, that's strange.
Don
-
Sent it again.....
Dave
-
Following you along Dave.
Vince
-
Thanks Vince!
Dave
-
OK ...got the mains line bored.....here's the photos....first make a boring bar for the little boring head.
Because I had the mill tied up, and this would be a BIG job on the Aciera...I milled the boring bar out of 3/8 0-1. first I turned 1 end to 8mm to match the boring head , and then cut the bar long enough to get through the block...then I took out one of my secret weapons!
My cross drilling fixture. It's a large steel block which mounts to my AXA wedge post, and then has 2 veeways cut in it by the lathe it is used on. Because it is cut in place, the Vees are dead on center with the spindle. Great for cross drilling shafts!....but...it can be used for other things. In this case it becomes a milling vise to make the boring bar. First I cut 1 end down by half.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-04_20-40-29_530_zps81587215.jpg)
Then I turned the bar in the vise, and made a relief cut down one side.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-04_20-43-28_671_zps87c857e2.jpg)
A quick undercut to put some relief on the back and ready to go. Next I heated the cutting end to cherry red...and quenched in motor oil....
Ready to grind.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-04_20-53-18_254_zps94636151.jpg)
NOW>>>>Listen!
To sharpen this on a bench grinder you must go VERY slowly, if you put enough heat into the part to discolor it, your tempering it...and that will soften the tool...we really want it good and hard...so a little touch...cool in water..repeat...you'll get there
I don't temper my cutters anymore...they hold up just fine, and they hold their edge well...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-04_21-53-52_258_zpsa1c17f28.jpg)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-04_21-54-16_479_zpsee1eba15.jpg)
All done!
Next ...time to bore the cam tunnel...its' set up so I'm just going for it!
Dave
-
Dave,
You're the man! Fine and original work.
Mosey
-
Dave thanks for the photos, I really like that setup. Great job as usual keep it coming bud.
Don
-
Thanks Guys...I hope it was instructive to someone.
Dave
-
Nice Dave, making boring bars look easy. I've always turned them offset in the 4 jaw, but your way has got to be easier.
Steve
-
Perhaps rude crude and socially unacceptable...but they work
Thanks for the interest guys.
Dave
-
OK got the cam tunnel bored and co-bored. Seems like the casting is spot on for this feature....all in all a good set of castings here
Feel free to pipe in Bez!
Here we are.
Roughed out with a long series 5/8 endmill
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-06_20-09-13_798_zps162e0cdc.jpg)
and bored
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-06_20-51-59_551_zps5ac21048.jpg)
I wanted to put the idler gear bore in, but I need the cover, and some stub shafts...ect...so I just took her out of the vice but left it on the plate.
I started in on roughing out the head...though no pictures yet....I also need to get the gear cover sorted and ready to mount.
The sump needs to roughed out to clear the bearing caps, and bored...I don't know which way I'll go with that, but I'll probably finish it on the lathe with the block on an arbor.
we progress.
Dave
-
Got the head squared up and ready...need to punch the holes to hold it.
Need to make a fixture plate for it
I cleared the sump to clear the bearing caps. I found an error in Westbury's drawings. The rear boss could be larger in diameter....the casting is to print...but it doesn't allow for the screws holding the mains.
I'll bleed on the print and get it back to you Bez...Nothing catastrophic though....Again...not structural so we can add some to the boss to put some meat in there for the rear seal plate to bolt and seal to.
Did you run into this Metalmad?
Dave
-
Probably the first thing I'll do once I make the fixture plate....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/image003_zpsedffb263.png)
That way I can mount it to the fixture plate,...which will be mounted to the rotary table amoung other things
The central 2 holes will go in after once I get the exhaust ports cut....they are really tight to print...I may mover the studs slightly to clear them more easily.
Dave
-
Good progress Dave :ThumbsUp:
And a nice write-up on making a cutter from drill rod as well, especially the tip on not letting it discolour while grinding.
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Impressive! Keep it coming.
M.
-
Thanks guys.....We'll get her done!
Dave
-
Holes in
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/2013-04-07_14-50-35_957_zpsfb51ec4f.jpg)
I wish I got my DRO a lot sooner.....
Dave
-
I've been on the road a few days. I'm glad to see the progress here. Looking good!
-
Thanks Zee!
-
Looking good Dave, and don't you just love those DRO scales. Sure makes life easier doesn't it?
Don
-
Thanks Don! , I need to make a toolmakers reamer for the valve cages...as I need a 7/16 reamer...but don't want to buy one for two holes....I'll show how to do that if anyone is interested. Always good to have some 0-1 drill rod around to make the odd cutter.
I'll see if I can get some work in this week during the evening...time and energy allowing.
Dave
-
Sure Dave, I am always interested in how it's done.
Don
-
Dave, by all means show us how you make the reamer.
Glad to see you back on this build.
--Tim
-
Here's the jist of it.....the end is cut with an approximate 5/1 taper to a sharp point....Harden it full hard and stone it.....I'll do the pictures when I make it....The exact taper isn't critical.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/ToolmakersReamer.jpg)
It's just a straight cut...a glorified D bit really.
It works!...and you can make it any size you like....one draw back ....it only takes about .005" of stock...though I suppose you could push more...so the procedure is to drill undersize, bore to about .005 under, then ream with the reamer..It pretty much cuts right on size..plus maybe a couple of tenths.
Boring to slightly undersize is good practice as drilled holes are never round or on position...the boring tool fixes that.
If I'm telling you guys how to suck eggs....just tell me to get on with it.... 8)
Dave
-
Dave please continue this will be a nice class on D bits.
Thanks Don
-
Thanks Dave for the show and tell. Love these snippets. Besides, I do not know how to suck eggs. Keep them coming.
Vince
-
OK got the cam tunnel bored and co-bored. Seems like the casting is spot on for this feature....all in all a good set of castings here
Feel free to pipe in Bez!
Dave
Hi Dave
I've been asleep on the job it seems... or at least traveling this week, so I missed this post earlier.
Thanks for the encouragement. I have been procrastinating on the line boring of my Wallaby on account of I was going to do it on the lathe. Unfortunately there are no T slots in my cross slide so making a jig was my next step. seeing you boring on the mill looks like a cinch in comparison.
I think I'll be following your lead on this one
Even if I have to make a longer boring bar. A huge thanks for the demo.
Cheers
Bez
-
OK got the cam tunnel bored and co-bored. Seems like the casting is spot on for this feature....all in all a good set of castings here
Feel free to pipe in Bez!
Dave
Hi Dave
I've been asleep on the job it seems... or at least traveling this week, so I missed this post earlier.
Thanks for the encouragement. I have been procrastinating on the line boring of my Wallaby on account of I was going to do it on the lathe. Unfortunately there are no T slots in my cross slide so making a jig was my next step. seeing you boring on the mill looks like a cinch in comparison.
I think I'll be following your lead on this one
Even if I have to make a longer boring bar. A huge thanks for the demo.
Cheers
Bez
Didn't plan on doing it that way originally, because I didn't have the Clausing then....but....it's working well...so I went for it.
Dave
-
Bet a little BBQ grease would work good for boring :Jester: Looking great. Keep after it hoss :cheers:
Yo Redneck
Erict
-
I started in on the head cooling jacket pocket
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/headcoolingpocket_zpsa20e09cf.png) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/headcoolingpocket_zpsa20e09cf.png.html)
I have the straight legs cut...I need to pull a "George" and make a "milling button" to do the radiused parts.
This part will never show....but I want to learn how to whittle like George does! :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Dave
-
Looking good Dave and looking forward to more progress. Can't wait to see you make George's tool and using it.
Don
-
OK.....had a very productive session in the shop!... I put up some lights with my son, and I got some work done on the head.
First the coolant jacket.
I laid it out as per the print. They show a casting, but Im working from billet...quite the pocket!
I then remembered a tip from George Britnel...he mentioned...."milling buttons"....and although I didn't really know what those were, I do know what a filing button is....so I figuired it must be the same kinda thing.
So...I turned up a button with a 1/8" diameter shank to fit in the predrilled holes...I figured I could creep up on them with an end mill, and when I heard the change in pitch of the end mill when it touches off...I know I was there, and I could then walk around the button....but it got way better than that...
When the end mill just touched the button, the button would rotate!....back it off...it stops...so using the X and Y axis I would walk in and make the button turn with the X...back away with the Y until it stopped...Moved in with X until it turned....back away with the Y until it stopped...and in about 2 minutes...I was around the bushing just as slick as can be..and it looked great!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_17-21-02_568_zps7c6be8d5.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_17-21-02_568_zps7c6be8d5.jpg.html)
So I took the button out, dropped it in the next hole and had at it and before you know it I was around the part.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-32_221_zpsa12cfa05.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-32_221_zpsa12cfa05.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-58_685_zpsc1e036f6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-58_685_zpsc1e036f6.jpg.html)
I then just cleaned up the center, and rough bored for the valve cages.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_19-28-58_405_zpsdb4262c4.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_19-28-58_405_zpsdb4262c4.jpg.html)
Gotta make a boring bar...... ::)
But I have to say...that button trick worked slicker than snot on a door knob!....
Dave
-
Now y'all are just making me sick,sick,sick. I saw all the beautiful stuff at CF and now this kinda skilled stuff. Would anybodies wife like to try and teach me to knit or something, think I might be better to give that a go :ROFL:. Looking great ol pal. Full speed ahead.
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
Now that is just too slick Dave. Something else learned here. You know when you engage brain wonderful things come out of it. LOL......... Just wish I could engage mine. Thanks for showing bud.
Don
-
Actually guys...it was pretty darn easy....do the straight stuff first...to bound it...then put the button in...don't need a DRO even...just watch the button turn...then stop....then turn...then stop.....Cool!
You have to pay attention to the start and finish points that intersect with the straights parts....but that's it!
Dave
-
Thanks for the tip George!
Dave
-
Well that is indeed cool. Thanks for showing.
-
Very cool tip I will file away, and the results demonstrate it's effectiveness...thanks to you and George both.
Bill
-
Good job!
M.
-
Thanks guys!
Dave
-
Gotta make up some valve cages soon. I'll use bronze. I'm liking the progress here...it's nice to have a session and see a lot of things checked off. I have a fixture to make to do the inlet and exhaust passages...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/headfixturedrawingcropped_zpsddce2905.png) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/headfixturedrawingcropped_zpsddce2905.png.html)
Dave
-
You seem to be on a roll there Dave. I have another week or more of work ahead of me before I crank back up again. I am curious of this fixture and why it's needed. Is it for cranking out multiplies cages?
Don
-
Nope....it's for making the curve intake and exhaust ports....the head mounts to it and various holes mount it to the center of the rotary table/dividing head for manipulation.
Dave
-
OK...I need to order the plugs before I machine the spark plug ports...and I need to get a extended ball end mill to mod....but here's the state of the state regards to the head.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-15_20-45-21_701_zps31a0840c.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-15_20-45-21_701_zps31a0840c.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-15_20-45-31_642_zps0b4e87e1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-15_20-45-31_642_zps0b4e87e1.jpg.html)
that'll do! I bored the combustion chamber a bit too big...so I had to sleeve them...but it came out OK.
Valve, cages , intake and exhaust ports...cover, ect ect to go.
Dave
-
For a freehand job that came out really nice.
What size plugs are you going to use?
-
Thanks Steve!
Either 10-40 or 1/4-32.....
I haven't decided really....
Dave
-
I have had Dale Detrich's 1/4-32's in my peewee for about 4 years now and still going strong.
Just sayin!
-
Nice job Dave, I like......
Don
-
I have had Dale Detrich's 1/4-32's in my peewee for about 4 years now and still going strong.
Just sayin!
You convinced me!...
I'll order the plugs and a tap tomorrow!
I need to put my tilt table up on the mill. and set up on the plug holes
I have the exhaust outlets going to the other side of the engine from the print....didn't really mean to do that, but I don't think it will be a problem
I also need to make a cover plate for the top of the head...
Dave
-
Thanks Don!
Dave
-
Great progress Dave. Love the milling button. I have to remember that one.
Vince
-
I also need to make a cover plate for the top of the head...
Would that be called a hat? ;)
-
I also need to make a cover plate for the top of the head...
Would that be called a hat? ;)
Just don't call it a derby!..... 8)
-
Well, that's what we call the primary sprocket cover on them old Hawgly Dadvidsons. Derby Cover
How bout bowler then :ROFL:
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
I have had Dale Detrich's 1/4-32's in my peewee for about 4 years now and still going strong.
Just sayin!
I talked to "Uncle Dale" Steve....( inside joke between Steve and Dale) I'll have 4 plugs by the weekend! :whoohoo:
Dave
-
Steve,
I'm looking for a hall effect solid state ignition....who would you recommend?
Dave
-
www.cncengines.com
Jerry Howell used to make a great DIY kit but he is no longer with us; my buddy has used several of Roy's ignitions and they have worked out great.
Great work on your engine BTW.
Dave
-
Steve,
I'm looking for a hall effect solid state ignition....who would you recommend?
Dave
I also use Roy at cncengines.com.
-
Thanks Dave and Steve!
I'll order tomorrow!....
Dave
-
Ron is up to his eyeballs with NAMES...so I'll touch base with him on Monday....
Dave
-
Started in on the water jacket "hat" and was off to a flying start....and then
:toilet_claw:
The stock is thick....Ill start again on the other side.
Dave
-
Started in on the water jacket "hat" and was off to a flying start....and then
:toilet_claw:
The stock is thick....Ill start again on the other side.
Dave
What happen keymosaby, you makum booboo?
-
Yup!
The HNC had a connectivity problem! The a$$ wasnt following what the brain was sayin!
Pesky software!
Dave
-
Yo redneck!
Wheryouat!
-
Yup!
The HNC had a connectivity problem! The a$$ wasnt following what the brain was sayin!
Pesky software!
Dave
Awe! Come on not Dave............ :lolb:
Sorry buddy.
Don
-
Yup!
The HNC had a connectivity problem! The a$$ wasnt following what the brain was sayin!
Pesky software!
Dave
Awe! Come on not Dave............ :lolb:
Sorry buddy.
Don
Oh are you kidding....that's allllllll me! If my eyes were'nt in the front of my head I'd probably walk backwards... :lolb:
Ah well.....I've got lots of aluminum
Dave
-
Got the plugs yesterday! Dale sent plug wires and caps too! Thanks Dale!
Dave
-
Got the 1/4-32 tap set from American Model Engineering Supply. I took the opportunity to get a full tap set in this size...taper, plug and bottom...
I'll make up another "box" with the appropriate screw machine drill for tap and clearance.
Should be able to finish off the head....feeling off today...be we will see.
Dave
-
Whuts up dog? I sure like the box idea on the taps. I bet you already had the 10-40 box, but, nooooooooooo you wanted more tooling, so, I'll order the 1/4-32 plugs:LittleDevil: good boy, good boy. If your feeling a little off today you might have to call Steamer2 off the bench, you can still call the plays, we'll just give him the credit, that's all. y'all have a great day and have us some pics for the evening edition. 8)
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
I'll see what I can do!....He's sleeping sound right now...so I may just leave him be.....his allergies are kicking his A$$ at the moment.
I think A nice quiet day is in order...I'll see what I can do in the shop though...feeling better at the moment..... ;D
Dave
-
Hey guys.....
I got the plugs, and the taps..so the spark plug ports are next. I need to make a couple things though
I need to mount the head to my angle table. It has large T slots, so I need to mount the head to a plate to hold on to it, so I'll use the port fixture as a holding fixture to do the spark plug holes too.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/headfixturedrawingcropped_zpsddce2905.png) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/headfixturedrawingcropped_zpsddce2905.png.html)
That means the next thing to do is make the fixture!....then I need to take the vise off and put the tilt table on.
I have kid duty for a while...but I think my son will be coming in the shop later.... :whoohoo:
Dave
-
Allergies...I noticed the other day several puddles rimmed with yellow stuff. Makes one think of sulfur.
Say Dave, just how close are you to running/finishing this? How many parts? Any chance you're close to a family shot?
-
Zee
lots of parts left Im afraid
thought I had the hat done today....
but I made another mistake and I think I found another print error.
Ill sort yhat out and post a correction.
Dave
-
Allergies...I noticed the other day several puddles rimmed with yellow stuff. Makes one think of sulfur.
Yucko! My mind's boggling backwards.
Dave, coming on really well.
Cheers, Hugh.
-
Here ya go Zee...
As requested
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-22_20-25-25_500_zps495aba63.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-22_20-25-25_500_zps495aba63.jpg.html)
Dave
-
That's coming along great Dave. Put a ruler next to it next time. I can't really tell how big it is.
Don
-
Hey Don,
Hope your feeling better!.....I'll put the ruler there...but the vise a good part of it is sitting on is 4" wide.
Dave
-
Great stuff Dave, :NotWorthy:
I must say it's smaller than I imagined.
Bob
-
Thanks Bob!
Been gone a few days on business. Hope to get more done this weekend.
Dave
-
Nice pic Dave. Thanks for that. Helps me understand more what you're up to.
-
Thanks Zee!
Dave
-
Looking real nice Dave
I'm curious about the cutouts in the sump that fit around the bearing caps. I notice Pete did the same on his.
Bassed on the Westbury drawings I have, It looks like ETW made the sump run up against the crank at both ends of the sump. Is it possible he narrowed the bearing caps to achieve this? Is that a viable option? (if not, it looks like am I up for making some new bearing caps?) :facepalm:
Thanks for all the tips and keep feeding us photos, there great. :ThumbsUp:
Cheers
Bez
-
Hey Bez
I'll mark up my drawings wth what I end up doing and I'll pass them along to you. His head cover drawing has a couple of issues too.
I've come to the conclusion that I am going to remodel everything to sort out any other suprises.
Everything is machining fine Bez! Good castings!
Dave
-
OK....on the docket...
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/04272013-01head_zpsbc530198.png) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/04272013-01head_zpsbc530198.png.html)
and my version of the head "hat".....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/04272013-01headcover_zps6499b18e.png) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/04272013-01headcover_zps6499b18e.png.html)
though I'm missing some dimensions...... ::)
Dave
-
Hi Dave
A really nice set of drawings.
Doing your own up in CAD is one sure way to gurantee the dimensions don't have any "Typographical errors".
I notice your drawing shows the exhaust port takes the longer path to exit the head. which runs it much closer to the plug recess and the head bolt hole than it would be if going t'otha way. :thinking:
Is there a technical reason for this? :headscratch: or is this one of those artistic licence things that makes each build a unique work of art?
Appreciate the feedback on the castings by the way, :ThumbsUp:
Bez
-
Hey Bez,
Well, if you go by the drawing, the head bolts are equidistant. If I machine the exhaust passage to where it "appears" to be on the drawing, It is very likely I'll take out the head bolt with the passage! so I offset the center bolts by .062".....and yes the rest is artistic license...the exhaust passage is the same distance wheather you exhaust out the carb side or the plug side by the way...the passage length is the same. In my case, I'm using a 1/4-32 plug instead of a 3/8 plug, so I still have some additional distance between the exhaust and the plug, and by design, the exhaust valve stem and back of the valve cage is surrounded by coolant in the head, so thats the best you can hope for cooling a valve. I think it will be alright....that and the fact I don't plan on entering it in the Paris-Dakar any time soon.... 8)
:cheers:
Dave
-
Hi Dave
A really nice set of drawings.
Doing your own up in CAD is one sure way to gurantee the dimensions don't have any "Typographical errors".
OH I wouldn't make that claim...lets say I've reduced the probability...I suspect there is still plenty of opportunity for me to stuff it up!
:lolb:
Dave
-
Thanks Dave
...the exhaust passage is the same distance wheather you exhaust out the carb side or the plug side by the way...
I'm not entirely convinced about that.... yet :thinking: , not that it really matters, as long as the exhaust has somewhere to go :smokin2:
Thanks for sharing the build with us, I'm really enjoying it.
:cheers:
Bez
-
Thanks Dave
...the exhaust passage is the same distance wheather you exhaust out the carb side or the plug side by the way...
I'm not entirely convinced about that.... yet :thinking: , not that it really matters, as long as the exhaust has somewhere to go :smokin2:
Thanks for sharing the build with us, I'm really enjoying it.
:cheers:
Bez
Well....according to CAD it is...anyway.
Depends on where you center the arc, and what radius....I have it square to the outside edge, so on the edge.
Dave
-
I'm looking forward to seeing you make the final cut, that's a cunning plan you have there. :ThumbsUp:
-
Hi Bez,
Me too!....I need to make the valve cages first...
Dave
-
OK....we progress!
The Head fixture.
My son has been working on his layout skills!.....but first we squared up a 1/2" thick piece of Cast Aluminum jig plate.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_13-11-16_519_zps20dea4be.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_13-11-16_519_zps20dea4be.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_13-54-28_504_zpsf399666e.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_13-54-28_504_zpsf399666e.jpg.html)The some layout work....with Papa's help....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_14-57-09_317_zps44b219d6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_14-57-09_317_zps44b219d6.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_15-25-33_9_zpsef98acda.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-04_15-25-33_9_zpsef98acda.jpg.html)
He asked a couple of pointed questions....I don't see you lay out parts much?....to which I said ...yes ...but I should!...and I want you to at least understand how and why.
He got to use his own tools by the way.
Next up is to tram the mill head...and try out my new drill chuck!.....lots of holes to drill!
Dave
-
Good work from the young bloke.
Hugh.
-
Thanks Hugh for the interest and support!.....He's having fun!...."Im making stuff that isn't involving legos!".....
The layout here will be just to confirm our location...so during subsequent machining...blah blah blah :Lol:....you guys know the drill....just trying to teach him
Can't hurt!....and he gets to practice his addition and subtraction!....
Dave
-
Looks like the WP is the chicken and he's the chicken hawk. " I say, I say, I say, the boy catches on fast now don't he? " great stuff, I'm digging it.
Yo Redneck,
Eric
-
Thanks Eric!
He's very much enjoying his new tools! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
It good to see a young lad interested in something more then video games. Looks like he's enjoying himself Dave. Keep making it interesting for him. He will be glad you taught him one day.
Don
-
Started putting the holes in
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-05_11-27-37_348_zps7602ee55.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-05-05_11-27-37_348_zps7602ee55.jpg.html)
Though he's grumpy about his sister at the moment.....so maybe more later... ::)
Dave
-
oh ...and the chuck is AWESOME!
Worth the wait!
Dave
-
Got the fixture done tonight....need to order a ball end mill...and make the valve cages....Maybe this weekend.
Dave
-
Got the ball mills....I'll need to modify one into a "Lollipop" cutter....shouldn't take too long...but got RC rebuild activities for this evening. ::)
Dave
-
Can't believe I've missed all this Dave, just had a look through all if your pics. It's looking great. I've always liked wallaby for the fact that it is a useful configuration and was designed to so some real work.
-
Thanks for the kind comments and interest Nick! Lot's of distractions all around.....don't even talk to me about the boat yet!
Dave
-
Speaking of the boat, are we bout ready for an early summer steaming?
"E"
-
Not even close Eric!....Maybe I can start the process of the spring reserection this coming weekend if its' not raining.
Dave
-
OK.....A couple of clean up items on the SB...and we're BAAAAAACK on the Wallaby!
OK...so I'll be looking for something to put on the SB first...... :embarassed:
Dave 8)
-
Look two post up :old: we are talking boat. Now if you want to devote all your time to Samantha Belle (SB) and some bloke from down under(Wallaby) just send me the boat. You just can't beat the way an old wood boat rides :ThumbsUp:
E
-
Be good to see Wallaby hop back into the picture! :ThumbsUp:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freedom_on_the_Wallaby (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freedom_on_the_Wallaby)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GJRhKGgnURs/SVSxRAM7erI/AAAAAAAAABE/vocQaYcg2CQ/s1600/freedom%2Bon%2Bthe%2BWallaby%2BMFP%2Bcover.jpg)
-
What!...no drop bar folk tunes?!
I was waiting for a nice shanty on the subject...even checked youtube!.....
Dave
-
No hope of that - daren't risk offending one of 'em.
-
Here ya go Sport :Lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_D-LmRNdQiQ
or
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x102uc_men-at-work-land-down-under_music (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x102uc_men-at-work-land-down-under_music)
-
And the facts!
http://australianmuseum.net.au/Drop-Bear (http://australianmuseum.net.au/Drop-Bear)
-
Now that's let the bear out of the bag. Ahh, the joys of rural living...
-
Ahhh I knew you guys wouldn't let me down!....when it runs...that music will be on the background of the vid! :lolb:
Dave
-
Thanks for the link to the natural museum tel...interesting!!
Bill
-
Yeah!......I got something done on the Wallaby!....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Southbend%209A/2013-07-24_21-11-45_102_zpsd692f318.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Southbend%209A/2013-07-24_21-11-45_102_zpsd692f318.jpg.html)
It's only part of one part....the tappet guide....but I turned it, and used my new die holder to thread it 3/8-40 , and drilled and reamed it...and Samantha Bell did very well.
The tailstock is not ejecting...I'll sort that....I need a saddle indicator stop..., and I can't stand going for a wrench to lock the saddle...so I'll do the same mod I did for my Logan with a small lever...
Using the die holder is really nice with the VFD...I can crawl right up to the shoulder at very slow speeds and stop right where I want.
Happy Chappy!
Dave
-
Time to get back to the fun stuff?
-
That's the plan Bubba!...That's the plan!
Dave
-
......I got something done on the Wallaby!....
:pinkelephant: :pinkelephant: Great to see some progress Dave :ThumbsUp:
Jo
-
Good to see the Wallababy lurching back into motion!
-
Old Pal, I'm with Steve. Glad to see you making parts on your labor of love, Samantha Belle. "Only One Part", that's all an engine is; parts, and now you've got one less to make. Just keep on making them parts and before you know it you will have to assemble it.
Eric
-
Thanks guys...not to say I won't have a bout of attachment making or two....but so far I really like SB.
She doesn't hog stock off...but seems nice to twiddle with little parts....which was the goal...
3 more tappet guide blanks and I can start the next OP on these parts.
Dave
-
......I got something done on the Wallaby!....
:pinkelephant: :pinkelephant: Great to see some progress Dave :ThumbsUp:
Jo
I know Just where your comming from Dave
Bez
-
Dave glad to see you enjoying the fruits of your labor. It feels good doesn't it. Keep it coming buddy.
Don
-
Thanks guys!....I'll sort out the issues a bit this weekend.....and get some more work done on the Wallaby....
Dave
-
Yay! Glad to see this one going again.
-
Tappet guides done!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Southbend%209A/2013-07-27_18-26-40_55_zps29fe62f2.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Southbend%209A/2013-07-27_18-26-40_55_zps29fe62f2.jpg.html)
Dave
-
Looks great Dave, did you thread those on the lathe as well?
Don
-
I used the die head...and the VFD....I took a really awful vid of it....but man it is nice!
Dave
-
still need to put the wrench flats on...but i'll get there.
I fixed the tailstock not ejecting problem...and I started the collet rack....and loaded the cabinet with all the accessories.
Dave
-
How about posting the video Dave, I would like to see it?
Don
-
Sorry for the crappy vid...but you asked
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJSs7rsrA7s
Dave
-
Awesome Dave, that worked out great. Steel my be a little different. I find if I power thread with a die and don't reverse regular it gauls the threads.
Don
-
Got my 1144 bar stock today to make the crank...and some stainless to make attachments for Samantha Bell.
OK where the hell is Eric?
Dave
-
Hey Dave,
That video isn't too bad, but I find that it is better to hold the camera with my teeth instead of clamping it under my arm.
Jerry
-
:lolb:
I never knew I could turn a potentiometer, a s selector switch and take video with one hand!....I started and as I did I said to myself..
"Self! This was a Stupid idea!
:lolb:
But....we survived.........
-
You'll have to make a tripod. Good stuff.
-
Here I am. Thought (hoping) I had ran away didn't you? The parts are looking sweeeeeeet and Sammi B looks like she is running smooth as a James Taylor song ;). I think she's definately a " runnah and a keepah. You need to get William a GoPro to use on his RC's and then maybe he would let you borrow it for the shop :stir:. I be stopping back by now you heah.
Eric
-
Nice 1 Dave, how powerful is the motor on your lathe? Is it a 3 phase that you are running with an invertor?
-
Hi Nick
It's a 3/4 HP 3 phase motor, run by a 1/2 hp VFD. Very controllable.
Dave
-
They do sound good, unfortunately my harrison was not dual voltage so i would have needed a converter.
-
My VFD is 110V single phase input, 220 3 phase output.
Very convienent!
Dave
-
Good stuff, not sure you can get 240 single In 440 3 out? Or maybe you could but they were a lot more i cant remember. Van you run more than one thing from a vfd? There is a possibility i could end up with more 3ph equipment in the future!
-
Looks like I've been missing all the action Dave. I've got some thread catching up on to do :agree:
Steve
-
Hi Nick
It's a 3/4 HP 3 phase motor, run by a 1/2 hp VFD. Very controllable.
Dave
Dave that is a 1HP VFD that you have.
Don
-
Thanks Don!
I got the tappet guides set up with their flats 7/16" across the flats....and I got the sensitive drilling attachment done.
Tomorrow, I start on a dummy crankshaft and cam, so I can mount up the various gears. These include the idler, and the oil pump. I still need to bore the cylinder liner bores, and the tappet holes, and then the cross drilling for the oil feed. and then all the threaded holes.
Things will move from there.
Dave
-
Gave old Samantha Bell a good work out this morning!....it's nice to dial in a number and get it...right on the fly do do!
Alright.... time to get the gears located...and get the timing cover done.....so I made up some dummy shafts to be placed where the cam shaft and crank shaft go. From there I made a toolmakers button to fit the idler...which is the gear between the other two below...and I'll mount that with a screw.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_14-18-27_814_zpsb42896c2.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_14-18-27_814_zpsb42896c2.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_11-09-09_871_zps907ddaeb.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_11-09-09_871_zps907ddaeb.jpg.html)
You will notice, there is very little stock left around the cam shaft gear/ timing case....but enough I think to seal against though...but just barely!
Then I started to fit the gear case cover, this had a few lumps inside where the mold had crumbled a bit, so between an end mill and a boring head, I cleaned up the interior to a scribed external line
Again ...not much stock here.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_14-03-22_984_zps30fd59dc.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-02_14-03-22_984_zps30fd59dc.jpg.html)
I made a shaft that locates on the crank gear, and locates the bore of the timing case, and checked fit. I found that the bottom mounting ears are off the sump...so I'll have to re-lay that out and see what can be done....if all else fails, I'll whittle a new gear case cover out of plate.
We progress....I'm extremely happy with my South Bend. It's everything I hoped it would be!
Dave
-
Nice to see some progress :ThumbsUp:
Is that a commercial gear I spy :o
Jo
-
Oh Please!
8)
My son and I cut all those gears with home made cutters
a while back
The oil pump has commercial gears inside though
Dave
-
It was the colour: it looks like anodising, that threw me ;)
Edit: Found it: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,237.msg5967.html#msg5967 :o that was a long time ago....
Jo
-
Yup....just about this time last year my son got sick...been busy.
Dave
-
Looks good Steamer!! Progress!!
-
Thanks Steve!....Hopefully I won't need to make that gear case cover.... :ShakeHead:
Laying it out...I don't think so...but it will need some surgery.....
I need to make a bunch of studs.....4-40, 5-40.
I'll order up some 1/8 stainless, and figure out how to use a box tool on my lathe...as well as my die head.
Dave
-
Good going Dave,
Nice to see you back on a model.
Best Regards
Bob
-
Alright Dave more progress on the engine. Those gears look great too, keep it coming buddy. :ThumbsUp:
The SB is doing alright by you, all that work is now paying off.
Don
-
Good stuff Dave. The momentum is building
Steve
-
Very nice Dave, the wallaby is a proper looking petrol engine. Was just going to ask about your gears but read back on the link Jo posted and got the answers. Interesting about the gnashing and cutting full depth. I was thinking about being able to do them on the shaper however, it would be faster on the mill!
-
I got some work done this morning! :cartwheel:....I figure I have an hour before the kid #2 and Mama wake up for real.....then I will be on a hunting trip for bagels!
......yes I'll post pictures! :cheers:
Dave
-
Mmmmmmmm slightly warmed, hint of smokey flavor, with some cream cheese and pepper jelly, now I'm hungry. Oh yeah, can't wait to see the progress :cheers:
Whiskey
-
Steamer--A very nice engine, and a lot of precision machining. I will stay tuned to watch your progress.---Brian
-
OK...I'm working on the gear train.
First up, setting the location for the idler gear. I put the idler was put on a cylindrical button and located roughly. From there I put in a 4-40 screw which is a loose fit on the bore of the button. Once I had the screw in, I adjusted the mesh between the crank and the cam gear. Once it was located nicely, I locked the screw down.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_08-30-34_856_zpscc454ee6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_08-30-34_856_zpscc454ee6.jpg.html)
From there I slide the idler off and set up and indicated the button in
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_08-43-13_920_zps0c3c92eb.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_08-43-13_920_zps0c3c92eb.jpg.html)
I then rough drilled the hole, and then bored the idler pin hole to .295"....then set up with a 5/16" reamer. Done!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_09-12-28_318_zpsd5361e7c.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_09-12-28_318_zpsd5361e7c.jpg.html)
Then! I set up the oil pump drive gear to mesh with the crank. I again drilled and tapped for 4-40 screw and located the gear and set up on the gear. I then drilled, bored bored undersized and reamed .375".
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-08-58_463_zpsf980d7f1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-08-58_463_zpsf980d7f1.jpg.html)
When I checked the fit, the oil pump gear was TIGHT!...the hole and the mesh!.....OK....I set back up on the bore with the boring head, and then enlarged the bore .0015, while translating the hole by .0015, and rebored the hole to .377". That did the trick!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-19-47_655_zps0ce99e8f.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-19-47_655_zps0ce99e8f.jpg.html)
It spins!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-22-06_921_zps0754a13b.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-15_10-22-06_921_zps0754a13b.jpg.html)
Next is the gear cover, the distributor bore, and the oil pump mount......which is offset from the axis of rotation of the oil pump drive.......
Dave
-
Nice to see some progress :whoohoo:
Jo
-
Thanks Jo!
I'll get some more done today....The big thing being the gear case cover...It's going to be tight!
Dave
-
Good to see you working on it, Dave.
Vince
-
Don't like the cover at all....Not sure if I started at the wrong spot on the casting...but the bottom ears hang off...which doesn't leave much for screws or a gasket.
I had to fly cut the block and sump back a bit to clean up the castings to give me enough gasket area. So that part is sorted...but...I think I'll lay out a billet gear case and give that a shot. If I'm doing that....I might as well put a water pump boss on it 8)
Oh well...the good news is the part is small....
Dave
-
Hello Dave,
Very interesting project and coming along nicely. I understand the no rush deal !!
Enjoy the journey !!
Dave
-
Hey Dave, looking good buddy. Gears look nice I ilke....... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Hi Dave
Good to see things moving in the right direction; looking forward to the new timing cover machining.
Dave
-
Thanks Guys....It'll get sorted out.
Dave
-
Not a doubt in my mind you'll fix it. All you can do is keep on keeping on. It's all about making parts and pieces anyway. The gear train is spot on. Good job.
Whiskey
-
OK...I laid out the cover, using ACTUAL dimensions from the current state of play...You will notice the 1.128, 1.083, ect dimensions....those are actuals as measured with a indicator and the machine DRO. Generally it's pretty damn close to print considering I made the gears too!
I'll touch off on the mounting bolt patter while the block is in the machine....and confirm that it works...otherwise I'll alter it a bit.
Dave
-
Hi Dave
From memory I had to remodel the bottom of the gear cover on my wallaby as well so perhaps the casting is a lttle oversize.
Pete
-
Hey Pete,
Perhaps, but if you start in the wrong spot...there is little to be done...that was my bad....oh well.
I'll remodel this one on the fly..and custom fit it.
Dave
-
OK...I laid out the cover, using ACTUAL dimensions from the current state of play...You will notice the 1.128, 1.083, ect dimensions....those are actuals as measured with a indicator and the machine DRO. Generally it's pretty damn close to print considering I made the gears too!
I'll touch off on the mounting bolt patter while the block is in the machine....and confirm that it works...otherwise I'll alter it a bit.
Dave
Only 1 hole had to be moved on the drawing. The top one at the top of the case next to the cam drive gear...the boss Is moved over a bit from center.
Everything else seems good.
Dave
-
Got some work done on the cover tonight...it was a tale of distractions....I needed to make an arbor for my 2" boring head, 7/8-18!....yes that's not a typo!.... while I had the vise in and squaring up stock for the cover, I squared up stock for the feed pump.....so all this took a while
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-21_20-14-30_32_zps9bd66c06.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-21_20-14-30_32_zps9bd66c06.jpg.html)
URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-21_21-12-44_665_zpsbcc33cb6.jpg.html](http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-09-21_21-12-44_665_zpsbcc33cb6.jpg)[/URL]
We're getting somewhere.....I'll finish all the drilling and pockets...and then swap out for the rotary table, make a holding fixture, and cut the other side.
Dave
-
PROGRESS!! I need to make some of that!
-
Thanks Steve....Good luck to you on that little beasty!
Dave
-
Nice Dave. 7/8 x 18 what fun, it good to have a lathe :)
Steve
-
Thanks Steve....I did it on Samantha....it's really nice to have the VFD.....didn't even need to use back gear!
Dave
-
Thanks Steve....I did it on Samantha....it's really nice to have the VFD.....didn't even need to use back gear!
Dave
Don't you just love the way it reverses? No jumping just a smooooooth reverse. I just love mine for tapping and threading.
Don
-
Sure is Don!....Thanks Buddy!
Dave
-
7/8-18!....yes that's not a typo!
;D Gottcha beat - I did a 1" x 20 just a week or so back.
-
Yes but I had a "standard" 7/8-20 arbor already bought for the head....except it wasn't 7/8-20! :zap: :Mad:
Need an arbor?
Dave
-
Not even big enough to chuck it in the arbor to anchor a tinnie
-
:thinking: This thread seems to have gone quiet..
Dave any progress?
Jo
-
Working 60+ hours a week right now Jo.....later in the month maybe.
Dave
-
You want to come and work in Europe we are limited to 48 hours by law (and it does not apply to one's own workshop) ;D
Jo
-
That law doesn't seem to apply where I work >:(
-
OK...it's 5:36 AM and because I've been doing it all week...I woke up at 4:30 AM.....so ....I'm up
I have the timing cover up in the mill......and I'll pick up there...see how far we get before Mario wakes up.... ::)
Dave
-
OK...profiled most of the outside....at least the bolt bosses...using the "milling button" method of HNC.
I'll post a picture when I figure out what I did with my USB cable....... :ShakeHead:
Dave
-
OK....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-08_07-52-45_237_zps6bcb184d.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-08_07-52-45_237_zps6bcb184d.jpg.html)
I like the button method...it works well.
Dave
-
I've never seen that button method before. Good stuff!
-
Dave, Do you mean move the cutter up to the button until you see it spin? Then back off and do the next bit :???:?
Jo
-
My question as well?
-
A very interesting method Dave and glad to see you making progress on it. I like.......... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Dave, Do you mean move the cutter up to the button until you see it spin? Then back off and do the next bit :???:?
Jo
Yes!....I did the same thing with the head some months ago. Works well!
Dave
-
Dave,
I'm sorry, duh, could you please explain the Button method for those of us who are.....duh!
Mosey :noidea: :noidea:
-
Mosey;
From someone who's ..... duh.... yes I'm a noob and I'm learning! The Toolmakers Button Method;
http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/holes1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPV54iNBo1M
Chapter 1;
http://www.knucklebusterinc.com/downloads/freeEbooks/Modern_Toolmaking_Methods_GO.pdf
Cheers Garry
-
Well Garry....almost.
I'm not using the button to locate, but to guide.
Let me explain.
The button I am using is .25" diameter, on the big end ....and is .125 on the small end. The button is located in the bolt hole location which are drilled first...in this case in 5 locations.. Now the "casting" has a semicircular boss surrounding the bolt, that needs to be machined...which if you have a CNC....is a piece of cake....but I don't!....AND I don't have a circular interpolation option on my very simple DRO. So ....what to do.
I could set the part up 5 times on a rotary table, and machine the radi. Seems like a lot of work.
Or ....I can do it with the button method!
Make up the botton as described above...with a close fitting .125 shank and the radius equal to the radius of the boss. The shank should fit fairly closely...but spin easy in the hold
Now...from the outside of the part...plunge into the part and dial into the part toward the center of the boss...and slowly come up to the OD of the bushing. When the milling cutter touches...the button will spin rapidly....now pay attention to which side of the center your on...move the Y....until the bushing spins....then move the X away...until it stops....move the y again..until it spins....move the X until it stops...pay attention to the direction!
This method will give a "circular interpolation" of the radius of the boss...close enough....to clean up with a file to a nice radius...
Here's the head I did earlier
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_17-21-02_568_zps7c6be8d5.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_17-21-02_568_zps7c6be8d5.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-32_221_zpsa12cfa05.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-32_221_zpsa12cfa05.jpg.html)
and one with the "bushing" laying on top of the part
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-58_685_zpsc1e036f6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-04-14_18-38-58_685_zpsc1e036f6.jpg.html)
Now I did use the "Button locating method" when I made the oil pump for this engine....and there I used a pair of buttons to locate the pump gears.....but the need was different....
Dave
-
Dave;
....and the other shoe drops... ::) I wondered about Jo's question about spinning. But I'd never heard of this method before. Thanks for the education!! Seems like a process fraught with trouble for a noob not on his game with spinning the X and Y handles :insane:
Cheers Garry
-
Dave;
....and the other shoe drops... ::) I wondered about Jo's question about spinning. But I'd never heard of this method before. Thanks for the education!! Seems like a process fraught with trouble for a noob not on his game with spinning the X and Y handles :insane:
Cheers Garry
Easy peasy......you go slow....and you think carefully before you do it!....no sweat!
Dave
-
Oh and even the ones who aren't noobs ...have bad days...and scrap parts....its part of the gig!.
Dave
-
....one handle at a time I take it! Thanks Dave. I just went and reread the whole thread and there on page 21 was.....yup...this subject! You may have motivated me to try gear cutting using your style of cutter as well!
Cheers Garry
-
Nice Dave
I like this button method, it a good idea
Steve
-
Thank you ,Dave. I'll add this to my repertoire of exciting techniques to try when the part is already compromised! Very clever!
Mosey :lolb: :lolb:
-
Hey I actually did something in the shop today!....vacuumed the floor after too!
Put the gear case cover back up and started whittling the outside....again, as an experiment...I tried the button profiling method for the 1.75 diameter....and it worked!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_11-47-41_129-Copy_zpsd5ab246e.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_11-47-41_129-Copy_zpsd5ab246e.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_14-07-15_776-Copy_zpsd64f3bc6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_14-07-15_776-Copy_zpsd64f3bc6.jpg.html)
Next I put it back up in the lathe to start facing the other end.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_16-04-58_632_zps6a437cbe.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-15_16-04-58_632_zps6a437cbe.jpg.html)
and then back in the mill...where I cut back enough to part it from the mother material....it looks ragged at the moment...but it came out pretty good, and the edges will clean up nice with a belt sander and a file.
Dave
-
Hi Dave, glad to see some progress on this one. I like your button method and will be trying it out on my next venture. By the way is that aluminum or steel your using, it's had to tell? :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Love it Dave. Really making great use of that button method, you've put me onto one of the best things I've picked up in some time.
Steve
-
Glad you like it.....here's some observations
Make the bearing shaft portion small in diameter, and as long as possible...the more torque you put into turning the button the more it wants to lift...which could be a catastrophe! making the axle portion of the button small reduces the torque required and minimizes lift ....I think reverse helix end mills might help, but I was successful with conventional....though I would NOT use fast helix cutters!
Just kiss the bushing...be patient and let it talk to you...you'll know when your on it. Go Slow!
Don't get distracted!....it's easy to forget which way to turn the screws if you are...
If you have a rotary table set up like a GHT table...it will probably be faster...if you have a lot a blends though....it works pretty well!
Dave
-
You could possibly run the machine in reverse to pick up the button??
Steve
-
No.....your cutting right up to the button..and when it starts turning...you stop.
I made the cuts .44 deep up to the button.
A quicker way would be to use a DRO with a bolt pattern feature, set the number of holes to some very large number, and nibble your way around....which would not need a button...
Dave
-
Gotcha
-
Hey Don,
Aluminum.
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
I have used buttons when profiling bosses on a part but not to the extent of having them spin when touched. I generally just blue them up and when I see the color change I move to the next X-Y spot.
Having an AutoCAD program allows me to make a step-over chart for most of my bosses, that way I can just crank to the numbers and not worry about getting my head down close to the work to see the button.
When I served my apprenticeship all of the 'old' journeymen on the mills had their own bible for stepping off radii. At that time there were no calculators so all the sine/cosine math had to be done by multiplication. They would have the desired radius using a standard diameter cutter per page and depending on their math skills the book might have 20-30 entries. Naturally you only need the calculations done for 90 degrees and then you start over.
Great whittling work.
gbritnell
-
Thanks George! I'll try that next time. The button method works well for small diameters...but the big ones are a bit nerve racking.
I'll put a spreadsheet together to do the table...though I put a BT-2 DRO box upgrade on my Christmas list...it' does bolt circles....
Dave
-
Interesting read, Dave. On first look, I thought sure you were using CNC. So I went back and looked over the whole thread. Good stuff!
Chuck
-
OK....I made up a spreadsheet....see attached.
Dave
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca3JqdbGNvI
“Starting and Running a Wilesco D6 Model Steam Engine (how to start)”
-
OK....vacation is a wonderful thing!....got some time at the lathe and bench, and although I still have some filing and cleaning to do...the gear case is in place and looks like it will work well!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-19-32_122_zps760e9de1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-19-32_122_zps760e9de1.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-19-20_103_zps323d2262.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-19-20_103_zps323d2262.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-20-53_74_zps79e79cd6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_12-20-53_74_zps79e79cd6.jpg.html)
So I'll finish the clean up, and the alignment arbors for all the gears, make up some studs, and finish the gear case machine work on the mill.
Dave
-
Now the question....do I try out my new die head?....or just use a button die for the studs......hmmm
Dave
-
Nice work Dave and I have learned on this so far. Glad to see you back at it again. It will be interesting to see how much this week will give you buddy. Keep pluging at it.
Don
-
Probably be a good idea to get the Christmas tree up too....hmmmm? :ShakeHead:
The entire family have resigned themselves to being slugs today........
Dave
-
Damn fine work Dave! I know how hard you have worked on it.
-
Lord they sho is a lotta gears in that case and you made'em fit and everything :ThumbsUp: :lolb:. Those vacation thingees must be good stuff. Do you have a link to where I could order one from? :lolb: Enjoy your time Tatah.
Whiskey
-
Thanks guys.....lots left to do...but we're moving forward.....microscopically forward...... :ShakeHead:
Dave
-
Hi Dave, good job. I can hear already the first ignition. I will follow your reports . Regards Achim
-
That's a jolly complicated piece of machining, excellent job :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
Thank you for your interest and support Achim! and Roger!... :praise2:
Dave
-
That's a jolly complicated piece of machining, excellent job :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Lots left to do too!....getting the pump mounted to the gear case is the next goal...though I have some studs and stub shafts to make. I'll crank on those after lunch.
The pump mount is eccentric to the pump drive, so It will need to be mounted temporarily so that I can tram in the position of the mounting "spigot" diameter, and bore the hole in the gear case appropriately. I also want to put in a bronze bush to support the far end of the pump drive....so I'll take that on today too.
Dave
-
Set the block back up on the Mill....It is mounted to my 3 sided angle plate which was a fleabay purchase. It wasn't flat and square when I got it, so I scraped it in. It was a simple project, and on a part like the block it comes in handy as it allows you to quickly set up on any one of 5 sides. In this case, in my vise. I dropped it in and checked it with an indicator on the previously milled face and it's less than .0005" in 6"....Nice! I'll put a jack under it to support that outboard end hanging off the vise.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_19-43-49_107_zps578eb222.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_19-43-49_107_zps578eb222.jpg.html)
I made the gear case studs ( 5-40) and the idler gear stub shaft, and the temporary cam shaft arbor and trial fitted the case cover, and it seems really good. I'll punch the 5-40 tapped holes for the studs, and bond in the idler arbor....then I can get on with the oil pump mounting/spigot.
Dave
-
Quietly following along. Happy Xmas Dave.
Vince
-
Thanks Vince!... Merry Christmas to you too!
Dave
-
That looks great Dave, and all the best for the season. Hope it's not unbearably white over there.
Cheers, Hugh.
-
According to friends in northern Mass it is more likely to be unbelievably green ;D
-
Nice to see some progress on this one!
Do you offer angle plate scraping services? :lolb:
Dave
-
Nice stuff Dave. Holidays seem to suit you :)
Steve
-
Nice to see some progress on this one!
Do you offer angle plate scraping services? :lolb:
Dave
If it's not too big....we can talk!
Dave
-
According to friends in northern Mass it is more likely to be unbelievably green ;D
Yup....we had about 18" of snow there for a couple of weeks....but it's been raining better part of 2 days now....so ...not much white stuff.
Dave
-
Yeah nice stuff Dave, it looks like a proper model of an engine this one rather than a model engine if you know what I mean!
-
Thanks Nick,
The gear pockets are about .020" shallow....messed up when I bored them apparently...but at least it was on the minus side!
I have a fixture made up to mount this back in the lathe to clean up bottoms of the case cover...each gear pocket in turn....but I have a problem. My only camera Is my Android...and it just died...like won't boot up died....so its a ... I need to get the phone, to photo the fixture to post to the thread....kinda thing.....we'll see if I can get a deal on a after Xmas offer.
In any case, you all will be happy to know that a MUCH better camera is on the list of wants for the new one!....
all in all....it's coming....might even get the rotary table worked on this weekend even....the honeydo list just got a bit shorter.... ::) :cartwheel:
Once I get the case mounted, and the pump in. The shafts will come next. Crank and cam. I think I'll do sealed ball bearings for the cam shaft...and with the .75 bore, should be plenty of room to do so. The crank has me apprehensive....lots of cross drilling for oil ports in that....plenty of places to break drills or break out!....will buy some very nice drills for that.....I will be milling it from the solid, and then finish it up on the lathe ....if required.
Dave
-
OK I cleaned up the inside of the case, and everything clears now.
Next I clamped the case onto the front of the block/sump assembly with the gears in, located the crank bore, and swept in on the cam shaft bore, I clamped the case to the block, and match drilled the holes into the block/sump.....and then tapped them 5-40....and ......on the last hole...... SNAP!
Broke the tap.
It had a stub sticking out and I worked it gently for a while, and I was making some progress, when .....SNAP!...it broke flush....and the air turned blue!
OK...I remembered that I had a carbide drill set PCB drills , really short. So I set up on the hole, tightened the gibs, as tight as I dare cranked it up to oblivion speed, and drilled the tap out .156"
It went swimmingly!......Made up a 10-32 plug, and I have it setting with Loctite as we speak.
Next up is the boring of the oil pump bore. This is the money shot. But I have a race car to crew on first 8)
Dave
-
Glad you managed to escape that Dave, but it would be nice to see some photos.
Don
-
Glad you managed to escape that Dave, but it would be nice to see some photos.
Don
Yes sir! It sucks when something like that happens. The "no pictures" i mean. :lolb:
Hope the repair works out well for you buddy!!!
-
Yea I know Don....also on the list is getting a new droid today....working on that now.
Then I'll have a camera......and a much nicer camera!...10 MP....super zoom....hell I can ID my fingerprints with this thing!...
Patience.....
Dave
-
Boy, that's good news. Missing out on the build is bad enough, but, no track pics :'( :disagree:
Whiskey
-
I'm going to get an Otter "Survivor" case for it too...I'm hard on cases...this thing is rugged.
Dave
-
I have the Razor Maxx, Kevlar case and in a Otter case. I can throw that sucker in shear disgust and no foul. :Mad:. Hey, we can probably start getting your post in real time or face time or what ever them kids call it.
Whiskey
-
Thanks Steve....I think it'll be fine. Fussy parts!.....it could have been a simpler design I think if the case held all the gears, and then only had to mesh with 1 gear and datum...then the sump would just be a sump.
Eric....I'm looking over my plan.....what a racket!....this charge and that charge all add up to a whole lot a charges! :killcomputer: :rant:
If I upload a picture directly...it's 25 cents.....or I can up to my PC then to PB...for free....so things to think about!
Dave
-
Might consider, Nikon CoolPics, photography's equivalent to the Bic lighter, does everything you want it to do till it just quits. Chunk it and start over.
Whiskey
-
1000 words is worth a picture Dave; Just joking, you've got a chance to make some secret progress now :)
Steve
-
My wife is on the horn with the various providers as we speak!....though I suspect we'll stay where we are.
I have picked up the original pump bore...concentric with the pump drive shown in an old picture here
the one on the right
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_19-43-49_107_zps578eb222.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/2013-12-22_19-43-49_107_zps578eb222.jpg.html)
This is the bearing surface, but I just bored it for a bronze bushing, and installed it...and once the Loctite kicks, I'll bore the bushing to finished size of .376.
Then I'll clamp the pump in, and pick up on the eccentric mounting hole, and then bore the case.....GOD talk about drama!.... :facepalm:
This one has fought me the whole way....what a pain it the :rant:!.
Dave
-
Alright! Progress!
I got the cover fitted, located the oil pump with respect to it's drive, set up and bored the mounting spigot for the oil pump....a couple of tweeks...and bingo!....it's in!
I borrowed my son's camera,,,,,now I need to figure out how to down load it....but I do have pictures....bear with me.
I need to shorten the cover stud just a bit, but they look good!... I opened up 3 of the 5 holes so the two extreme studs locate the cover,
I need to install the idler gear shaft, but I need to harden it and the idler gear first...and additionally, I need to cut a key way in the crank shaft gear.
Off to the crankshaft and cam shaft!.....and the head....and..... ::)
Dave
-
Eagerly awaiting the pictures.
-
Eagerly awaiting the pictures.
Yea Dave!
Don
-
Picked up on the pump drive bushing, bored it and installed a bushing...then bored to size.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/100_0744_zps8345f443-1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/100_0744_zps8345f443-1.jpg.html)
Gears installed.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/100_0743_zps1ea45345-1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/100_0743_zps1ea45345-1.jpg.html)
I temporarily installed the pump in it drive bush, clamped it in, and then swept the locating diameter. and zeroed out the spindle right over this point.
I then installed the cover, and bored it to .875. Then drilled and tapped the 2-56 holes for the pump mount.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/100_0745_zps060f22f7-1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/100_0745_zps060f22f7-1.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/100_0742_zps48530085-1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/100_0742_zps48530085-1.jpg.html)
And here it is installed. I need to shorten the studs a bit. but it set up nice!
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/100_0740_zps7fcb18f1-1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/100_0740_zps7fcb18f1-1.jpg.html)
Dave
-
As I have the block up on the angle block, I'll set up for the oil passages and some of the other features like the coolant flange. Then I can take this off the angle block and set up to bore for the cylinders. Once I have that, I can finalize the crank dimensions.
Dave
-
Still following along, Dave. You're making good progress!
Simon
-
Thanks Simon!....I think I've knocked down most of the hard parts....with the exception of the crank and finishing the head.
The rest shouldn't be so bad.
Dave
-
Things always look on the Up-and-Up if there's gears mounted on it ;D
Good going Dave :ThumbsUp:
Kind regards, Arnold
-
Thanks Arnold!....its been one distraction after another...but I finally got that gear case cover on and machined.
Next the rest of the drilled holes, but not today. I'm having an allergic reaction to some food I ate....and I'd welcome someone peeling my skin off right about now! :ShakeHead:
Another day.
Dave
-
Well before the meds kicked in, I got some of the oil galleries drilled....no drama...I'm going to try to go to work today.
Dave
-
I'm still following along. Every little bit made is progress. I'd probably just stay home today and work some more in the shop, so you know if you are really ready to go to work. :naughty:
Whiskey
-
Just got off the horn with the Doc Eric.....I'm not going anywhere.
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
Get well buddy, stay warm, wear boxing gloves so you don't scratch the rash etc.
Best Regards
Bob
-
Thanks Bob....
Steroids and antihistamines are wonderful things!....but they get in the way of engine building..... :insane:
Dave
-
Thanks Bob....
Steroids and antihistamines are wonderful things!....but they get in the way of engine building..... :insane:
Dave
Yeah, your too busy eating to build engines. Steroids make you hungy.
-
Hey Dave get well soon buddy. We need to stay focus on this engine build bud. :lolb:
Seriously hope you feel better buddy.
Don
-
Thanks Bob....
Steroids and antihistamines are wonderful things!....but they get in the way of engine building..... :insane:
Dave
Yeah, your too busy eating to build engines. Steroids make you hungy.
At the moment, I don't feel a damn thing!...good stuff these prescriptions!.... :lolb:
Going in for an allergy test in a couple weeks so we can figure out what the hell happened.....after the meds leave the system.
Dave
-
Hi Dave
I'm still spectating here and enjoying your work.
Sad to hear about the allergy.
Yeah! you have to find out what food you need to avoid?
You can do without shoptime interuptions like that.
Hope you're recovering well.
Bez
-
Thanks Bez
I started collating the data you wanted.....but I was interrupted....
I'll get to it
Dave
-
Thanks Dave
Appreciated
-
Got just a little time yesterday and finished the first cross drilled lube holes to the mains and spot faced and tapped 10-40. I'll make up fittings much later.
I have to drill the 3/32 x 3" deep main lube gallery hole next....gonna make sure I have some GOOD drills for that one though! :zap:
The medical situation is improving dramatically...still on the steroids...but I'm feeling much better.
I'll try to take some pictures this evening....
Dave
-
Got a little bit done yesterday. I got the oil passages drilled in the block after I got my hands on some extended length 3/32 drills. Sure is nice to use a well made drill.....easy peasy!
Dave
-
Any new photos Carl..I mean Dave?
-
Any new photos Carl..I mean Dave?
Hey Dave, who's Carl?
Steve, i mean Bubba!
:stickpoke:
-
Wow!....feel the love! :lolb:
Ste....er ah Bubba and Dave ::).....I'll get some photo's such as they are today. Brought the engine to the show yesterday, and got a lot of interest.
Dave
-
Started on the crankshaft today. Among other things in the shop....shop time in general. I was going to do the crank with the fixture that Steve and George used, but this crank is very simple, so I decided not. I think I can just index it in the vise on 4 sides and rough most of the stock off in 1 very rigid set up, and then finish the throws and the journals in the lathe. Probably with a chuck mounted fixture, and a block on the other end to be supported by the tailstock center. I've got the rough blank of 1.25" 1144SP cut to length...and I've got piece set up to start slabbing the blank to width in the mill vise. As the plans call for separate counterweights, I was considering leaving the weights in as one piece, but it will complicate holding the part, and bolted on weights will be fine. To bad I can't get 1144SP in bar stock.
Yes I'll get some pictures.........but a piece of stock cut to length and ready to go in a vise isn't much to look at.
Dave
-
but a piece of stock cut to length and ready to go in a vise isn't much to look at.
It's a start!
-
'
Any new photos Carl..I mean Dave?
Yea Carl, I mean Dave.
Don
-
Hey Steve...I mean Don...and of course Bubba.
Oil passages shots.
Side ports leading to bearings. They're tapped 10-40.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151706196_zpse44fc9b8.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151706196_zpse44fc9b8.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151644468_zpsa1eaadc6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151644468_zpsa1eaadc6.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151700224_HDR_zps3342ac7f.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_151700224_HDR_zps3342ac7f.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_153008710_HDR_zps720eccb4.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_153008710_HDR_zps720eccb4.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_154112979_HDR_zps3a247919.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Wallaby%20build/IMG_20140217_154112979_HDR_zps3a247919.jpg.html)
-
Keep them pictures coming Dave.
Its all good stuff.
Bez
-
Wow!....feel the love!
We're feeling it.
-
Oh wow! Are those photos? Cause I haven't seen some in a while. :lolb: OK buddy we'll leave you alone and some nice shots by the way.
Don
-
Well......I stuffed the crank even before I even got started!.....The blank is too short. Apparently...I took a piece off the end thinking it was something else....
more 1144SP on order...and should be here Monday....just in time for the work week......
Dave
-
Well......I stuffed the crank even before I even got started!.....The blank is too short. Apparently...I took a piece off the end thinking it was something else....
more 1144SP on order...and should be here Monday....just in time for the work week......
Dave
Naaa...............I don't believe that, you just wanted a good excuse to expand you metal stockpile. :cheers:
Best Regards
Bob
-
8)
Thanks for looking in Bob! I figure I have to "CREW" my son's truck today, but I'll root around and see if there is some bronze I can start making engine bearings or something....alternatively, I can go back on the head...still lots of work to do there.
Dave
-
Got the 1144SP today...and was very motivated...and now I have a rectangular bar made out of a 1.25" round..... :whoohoo:
I'll spare you the pictures.....but I can see a crank in there! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
I'm betting if it's in there you'll find it. :ThumbsUp:
Whiskey
-
I'll spare you the pictures.....
Well crap!
-
OK Zee.....just for you
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Family/IMG_20140317_2146413611_zps292ce987.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Family/IMG_20140317_2146413611_zps292ce987.jpg.html)
-
:ThumbsUp:
I am sure I'm not the only one who appreciates this. ;D
-
Now that's more like it.
Don
-
Hey Dave your swarf flicking brush looks just like all of mine "well chewed" :LittleDevil:.
Jo
-
Thanks guys!....It's nice to make some chips on the old girl.
Dave
-
It looks a bit like my crank did just a few days ago Dave
it isn't boring for mè , more px is a good thing, I'm right behind you Zee
:ThumbsUp:
(Just in case Dave starts throwing stuff at us) ;D Bez
-
Dave, wonder why you can only get 1144SP in round stock :shrug:
Whiskey
PS: I'll bring you a new brush :LittleDevil:
-
Dave, wonder why you can only get 1144SP in round stock :shrug:
Whiskey
PS: I'll bring you a new brush :LittleDevil:
Don't know.....I'm sure someone will pipe in though. Good thing it machines nice and I have some roughing endmills.
Dave
-
Hi everyone. I am Ernie. Today is my first day on this board. I am looking for and 2 cylinder, 4 stroke IC model engine and judging by the drawings posted by Steamer, Wallaby seems to fit the bill. More specific, the sectional side elevation showing the shape of the camshaft. Am I correct in assuming that instead of reciprocating, both pistons are moving in the same directions in at the same time?
-
Hi Ernie,
Yes it's a single plane 360 degree crank which results in an even firing order. The plans are available from Model Engineer. My castings came from our member Bezalel.
Dave
-
Here is something you don't see every day an original set of Wallaby castings in Bronze :o
It confused me no end having a set of Loco Wheels :disappointed: in there until it was pointed out that the 1831 was the first Diesel Loco.
Now someone is trying to encourage me he has a couple of spare sets of castings for one :naughty:
Jo
-
Yes the one with the cored cylinder head in bronze is very early indeed!.....like during the original 1831 article period which was during the war.
Nice!....Need to get back into mine...but I have to stop getting up at 4 am to get ready for work....
Dave
-
Hello Steamer, how you doing with your wallaby?
Peter
-
Not as well as I would like....Ive been wrenching far too much on this instead as of late.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=2810.0
Dave
-
Here is something you don't see every day an original set of Wallaby castings in Bronze
Thanks for posting these photos of the castings. I've been in the process of making a Wallaby the slow way. ie- by making my own patterns and casting my own parts. It's interesting to see how others approached the castings. As time went by it looks like they simplified things by eliminating some of the cores in both the block and head. I can well understand- as it was I thought it was hard enough to do, although I'm hardly a well trained sand crab.
Here's where I'm at. It's hard to tell but I made it 25% bigger than plan because I thought the original size was a bit fiddly. Mine will be a 50cc engine when I'm done. Just a few more patterns/castings and then I'll have the complete set.
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg545/sirmanlypowers/wallaby%20castings/IMG_6133_zps8jlobm7g.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/sirmanlypowers/media/wallaby%20castings/IMG_6133_zps8jlobm7g.jpg.html)
-
Hey that's cool! How long have you been working on this? What does your shop look like? what other types of projects are you working on? Inquiring minds want to know! 8)
Dave
-
Hey that's cool! How long have you been working on this? What does your shop look like? what other types of projects are you working on? Inquiring minds want to know! 8)
Dave
I was also inspired by the work of Bez and Metalmad. I like to make patterns and cast parts, so the idea of casting my own engine had more appeal to me than buying a casting set. I've been at it off and on for about a year. I'm not too fast, but I have a lot of projects on the go. I'm sure you all know how that is.
The block was a bit of a challenge for me. That's the most complicated cored casting I have done.
The next complicated piece is the head. I'm not going to core the exhaust/inlet channels - but I do want to cast the cylinder head, valve bosses, etc. ie- like the original casting set, not from solid. Towards the aim of improving my capabilities I built a CNC wood router. I've designed the cylinder head in CAD and now I need to carve out a core box on the CNC router. Currently I'm putting my CNC router through it's paces and making it fully functional.
After the head's done there are a few other castings, but they are all pretty simple- then it will be time to make chips.
Here's a pic of my homemade CNC router:
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg545/sirmanlypowers/krmx01/IMG_6100_zpssegvfk1e.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/sirmanlypowers/media/krmx01/IMG_6100_zpssegvfk1e.jpg.html)
-
Wow I do like that Router. I might have to make something like that, would come in handy with my patterns too!
Love your Castings, they bring back lots of memories :praise2: :praise2:
Pete
-
Well.....its been a year....but maybe this weekend....
-
Don't feel too bad. I'm sure there are lot's of us in the same boat. ie- lot's of projects all in various states of completion. Sometimes they get finished when you make that extra push....
-
Don't feel too bad. I'm sure there are lot's of us in the same boat. ie- lot's of projects all in various states of completion. Sometimes they get finished when you make that extra push....
Got a bit busy!!!!
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2810.0.html
Dave
-
OK Tatah Tot, just for the sake of William, we'll accept the excuse, but, bub, let's get cracking now, there's chips to be made :lolb: :lolb:. If you need any machining hints or tips don't be afraid to ask, this forum is full of knowledge 8). Tell everybody we said hey,
Cletus
-
I'll do what I can do bud......work is still nuts...
-
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Family/IMG_20140317_2146413611_zps292ce987.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/Family/IMG_20140317_2146413611_zps292ce987.jpg.html)
Hmmmmmm No racing this weekend.....just some practice Saturday, and some gutters on Sunday.....
Indexing head is near done.....Hmmmmmm
That crank is coming out of that piece of stock damn it!
Dave
-
Hey Cletus! hell you yelled at me to get going on this thing a year ago! LMAO!!!
Kids are killin me.....
Dave
-
Well, it didn't do much good a year ago, but, see'ns how there was unforseen circumstances, I'll let yo Yankee butt slide : THIS TIME :lolb: :lolb:. Now, hows bout getting back to it, dammit man. Don't make me send Vern up there to straighten you out, now ya hear. Remember, no pics and it didn't happen, just saying :old:
Cletus
-
Pics I promise!!!
Roughing out the crank this weekend, Might even start to finish it.
Dave
-
OK.....good session with the mill and a nice sharp 3/8 end mill and here's the roughed out crank. I'll turn the throws first as is usual, and then the mains cutting the bosses off first.
Again 1144SP steel...125000 psi material as is. Good stuff. It actually machines OK unlike say 4150, but has decent carbon content and it doesn't move around as much as most CR stock.
That said, I waited till now to put the centers in. It's moved all it's going to now.
I'll come up with some packing for the throws while I turn it. Waiting for some parting blades to make suitable tools.
Next take the vise off and put a big knee on. This is the set up I'll use to put the centers in on both ends from a common datum.
I'm BAAAAAAAAACK.............8-)
Dave
-
OK Centers are in. I've documented my way of getting the centers in. I hope it's self explanatory, but I'd be glad to explain.
Next, rough out the throws,
Then rough the mains
Then finish the throws,
Cross drill the throws.
Cut off blocks, and finish the mains and finish the shaft ends.
Cross drill for oil passages.
Dave
-
Glad to see you back in the workshop :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
-
Thanks Rodger, good to be back!
Dave
-
That's more like it, back on a roll. Now, in the words of a country song: "Don't back up, don't back down" keep the swarf coming Tatah :cheers:. I'll bet old Samantha Belle is chomping at the tool bit 8)
Cletus
-
That she is!!!!
Really looking forward to getting this done. I have projects I want to do!!!!
Dave
-
Hey Dave, good to see you back in the shop!
The crank shaft is looking good!
Dave
-
Hey a question for the membership.
The original plans call for "Glacier metal" for the bearings, and perhaps hardening or chrome plating the shaft.
I would rather do one of the following, or , follow a well trod and successful path that one of you good folk have already followed.
Make bearing inserts with babbit faces. I am sure I can do that and it would work with a non hardened crank shaft obviously.
Use silver inserts like Ron did on his Offy.....might be over kill for this engine.....but I'm listening.
OR!
Just use bearing bronze, as this engine is really just to run for show and giggles and will probably outlive me doing so...
( Im leaning this way as my boat engine gets worked hard and has this combination and is as tight as the day it was made....)
OR!
( please fill in with the space provided)
What say you?
-
I will have plain bronze on mine ;)
Jo
P.S. Still recovering from the shock of seeing you making bits of Wallaby again. I noticed you carefully hid the swarf so the shock wasn't too much :lolb:
-
Hi Dave,
In most all of my engines I use bearing bronze for the plain bearing inserts and have never had any significant wear even with the splash oiled ones. Unless you were really going to stress the engine I don't think making more sophisticated bearings would be needed. Just my two cents.
gbritnell
-
Hi Dave,
In most all of my engines I use bearing bronze for the plain bearing inserts and have never had any significant wear even with the splash oiled ones. Unless you were really going to stress the engine I don't think making more sophisticated bearings would be needed. Just my two cents.
gbritnell
I will have plain bronze on mine ;)
Jo
P.S. Still recovering from the shock of seeing you making bits of Wallaby again. I noticed you carefully hid the swarf so the shock wasn't too much :lolb:
Done!!!! Simplifies everything....love it.
Besides, I've seen this oil pump in action....it's prodigious!....
Oh the swarf is everywhere!!!! My shop is a mess at the moment, but I did do this work this weekend....it felt real good to get out there and fire the mill up. gonna make more time for me in future.....good for my outlook....
Dave
-
by the way....I wish that knee could talk. It was built in 1957 and resided at "Buick" bench 7. I suspect it was their tool and die shop. It's freakin PERFECT....
Dead straight, and square....like less than anything I can measure with a tenths micrometer, and harder than woodpecker lips.
All the 3/8-16 threaded holes are clean and tight....
about 6 x 6 x 6 and about 1.5" thick. solid steel It's a beast.
Who ever built it...knew what they were doing!
Love that knee......
Dave
-
Ordered bronze for rods, and bearings today.....bronze isn't cheap, but I'll have enough left over for the next one.
A new 3C collet came today...9/16 I'll be using it shortly.
Can't tell you how much I missed doing this.....
Dave
-
Ordered bronze for rods
The set of castings that have been keeping me company over dinner have cast bronze rods :noidea:
I was planning on using HE15 for my Wallaby rods.
Jo
-
Not familiar with the HE15 I'll look it up
( Ahh 2014 aluminum. YUP )
Using ISO 932 (SAE 660 bearing bronze) for the rods. This is a pretty tame engine so 660 should be fine and will alleviate the need to make inserts for the rods......
And ....it's on the prints.... and the counterweights are sized for bronze rods.
Dave
-
HE15 Ali is what I use to make the con rods for my aero engines.
Yep bronze on the drawings but the design is a few years old ;)
Jo
-
Hmmm I was worried about the Ali picking up on the soft crank. Have you run with a soft crank pin on your aero engines?
Dave
-
The cranks on the Aero engines are made in EN8.
Some of the bigger engines have bronze shells on the big ends.
Jo
-
Are the pins hard? ( EN8)
-
Its a nice free cutting high carbon steel that I use for most of my cranks which you don't need to case harden.
Jo
-
OK Same carbon level as 1144SP. So could run a 2014 AL like substance against it. 2024-T6 on this side of the pond is pretty common.
On the other hand.....I could just use bronze ..... 8)
-
I ran the numbers for a connecting rod load of 400 pounds ( 500 psi Mean Effective pressure....which is WAY above anything we'll ever see by a lot)
Con rod stress is about 7000 psi.......Yield is like 35000 psi for 660 bronze.....
I'm going to stick with the bronze.
Dave
-
OK......crank is in the lathe........ :paranoia:
-
:pics:
Come on Dave.......
-
:pics:
Come on Dave.......
What Don said!!!! Hahaha!!
-
Alright....got something done.
Turned the pins to .510 ( .4375 is finish)
Now I'm going to turn the mains to .5
Then back to the pins to size,
Cut the turning blocks off
Turn the mains to size.
Drill out the pins.
Cross drill for oil passages
cut the key way and thread the crank gear end.
turn the taper and cut the thread on that side....
Drill and tap for counterweights...
I tried to go the bifurcated parting tool approach, but I just couldn't get the tool to stop chattering. I ended up with two knife tools, a left and a right with just a wisp of a radius...
Next time I'll Mill the whole thing to rough it out and leave like .020 to turn. It'll go faster.
We progress
Dave
-
OK all roughed out.
All diameters are +.060" the webs are to size.
About .0025" run out. I suspected it would move around a bit. It was a good choice to rough it all over first.
-
Looks good to me Dave. Keep it coming.
Bill
-
Done for the night Bill, feet hurt.
It looks good from here too! The worst is over I think....well there is the oil holes.....(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/Smileys/default/electricf.gif)
-
I'll make up some support blocks in the morning. they'll go in the webs and be fixed there with super glue.
Then I can finish the crank.
I also need to blank the cam with a spare.
I want to cut the taper on the shafts all at once, including the D bit for the flywheel.
so I'll have the cam blanks ( in case I screw one up) all ready to go with the shaft tapers on them.
Dave
-
Well that's looking good Dave. Now we can relate to what your doing buddy...... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Getting there Don.....
Now the fussy part....finishing it off without distorting it.
Dave
-
OK I parted and faced some 1/2 stock for packing pieces. I made them a gentle wringing fit with no center pip.
The push in very gently.
I'll clean it all up, and super glue them in, and then bring the pins to 0.4375 and make sure we have no taper ect.
-
Throws are done! On to the mains!
....tomorrow......feet hurt.
Dave
-
Now you're kicking Skippy :ThumbsUp:. Did you radius the corners when you turned the throws? Soak the dogs and carry on.
Cletus
-
We raced today...."club race" He won....3 laps up.
I worked on 3 different cars.....1 was ours!..
Dave
-
Throws done....packing out NO run out....now I can cut off the throw centers and finish her off....
Lots left to do on this piece....cross drilling, and hollowing out the throws....thread it, taper on one end.....
Dave
-
Dave,
The crank looks great. I'm assuming there is no counter weight to balance the crank?
Art
-
There is. They're bolted on after. The weights are brass.
Dave
-
I like that crank! There is nothing spindly about it...good and stout.
Pete
-
Thanks Pete! The mains are still +.060 over, but the pins are to size (,4375)
It is a stout crank
Dave
-
Looking good Dave...... :ThumbsUp:
Don
-
Throws and mains are turned to size. I have the timing gear side machined, now I have to do the flywheel side. I'm going to hold off just a bit while I blank out the cam shaft. They both have a 10 degree taper, and I want to set up and do this once, and make the reamer at the same time so that they fit well.
Probably make two cams just to have a spare.
Dave
-
Hi All,
I'll be documenting this one here. Hope you enjoy. Pete (Metalmad) did a full blow by blow at the other place and made a great running engine,,,,hence my name...of my own.
I will be using Bez's castings...they seem well enough...I'm sure they'll be great as one running engine is out there made from them. I started this at the other site as a "interactive" thread. That didn't seem to catch on well, ....so although I don't mind input on different ways of doing things....feel free to.....I won't be making it a focus like I did there. Instead I'll work with the equipment I have and post it blow by blow. My son is going to be working with me and at the age of 9 is quite young...but he's enthusiastic. Don't expect any speed records here...... ;) I'm a busy guy.
Dave
Wow....Just looked all the way back at the beginning of this threrad...July 23, 2012....William was 9, RC racing wasn't even a thought yet....time sure flies doesn't it Dave? Nice to see this thread active again.
Bill
-
LMAO! I went back to my original notes on the Wallaby.....from way back....2005!....
I was going to build it bar stock!
Dave
-
2005? Heck, we were all mere babies back then :lolb:
Bill
-
MEH.....is what it is. I wouldn't trade this layoff for the world. What my son and I accomplished doing it was amazing. and we couldn't have gotten as close as we are if we hadn't done so.
Dave
-
Not to digress too much, but I hope Ava is continuing to do well also. Is she pursuing her archery again? Another hobby for Dad perhaps??
Bill
-
2005? Heck, we were all mere babies back then :lolb:
I had not bought my mill or lathe and had never machined anything.
-
Built my first steam engine and boiler in 1988.....
On a Sears Craftsman 109 lathe to boot...and a home made mill
8-)
-
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/tooling/Davesmill1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/mcandrew1894/media/tooling/Davesmill1.jpg.html)
-
Not to digress too much, but I hope Ava is continuing to do well also. Is she pursuing her archery again? Another hobby for Dad perhaps??
Bill
We both shoot, but not since she got sick. I'm itching to get back at it. I have a really nice Hoyt Olympic bow....and I shoot bare bow...no sites....
Dave
-
Nice looking mill. The robust frame certainly dwarfs that repurposed sherline head though, but ain't nothin' wrong with rigid :)
Bill
-
Nope...it was a "FIND" mill...I found the sherline being thrown out..not table, but HS and TS. .the vertical was a broken boring head off a Warner Swayze #5 Turret lathe that crashed and broke the foot off. I had the High School shop class mill the broken foot off parallel to the dovetail. The frame was welded together by a friend for a case of beer, and then filled with hydraulic cement. Spent some time with my Dad
s angle grinder getting it square enough, and then shimmed the Atlas drill press table to get it square....weighed about 200 pounds....ran out of motor first....heh heh...
Build a lot of stuff with it!
Dave
-
Time to rough out the cam shaft!!!
Additionally, I just ordered Howells water pump to be driven off the cam shaft at the rear.
I got the material kit for it too.
Dave
-
Yup....roughed it out to diameter and length...in record time!!!!
how come it looks funny?
My new parting tool is 0.125"....not like the old 0.093".......
Good thing I got a foot of 1144.......but not tonight...
Dave
-
Bunmmer Dave. Tomorrow will be better no doubt :)
Bill
-
Excrement occurs!!!
We're running a race tomorrow....after that.....
Dave
-
Good luck at the races then...go team Hog!!
Bill
-
Gotta start on the Cam shaft tonight....baby step, i'm still smoked from this weekend....
But we're moving...
Dave
-
Ok. Roughed out the cam today. This thing is starting to look like an engine!. Time to. UT the tapers on the crank and the cam. Some oil pan work and the main bearings and cam bearings an then on to the top end!!!. :cartwheel:
-
Sounds like you had a pretty good day but for some reason the pictures aren't showing up :naughty:
-
Tomorrow!
-
Got the main bearings roughed out. I'm making them in pairs, so for a 3 main crank, I have 6 identical bearings that I will now machine into halves. Upper and lower.
I also need to machine the taper on the cam shaft and the crank shaft which means making a reamer.
Pictures to come
Dave
-
The last Wallaby pics were nearly two months ago :ShakeHead: We hear the words, but without pics do we believe anything is happening :hellno:
Jo
-
Camera broke? :lolb:
Dave
-
Lens frozen over, battery dead, William had my camera: just saying :lolb:
Cletus
-
I also need to machine the taper on the cam shaft and the crank shaft which means making a reamer.
Dave
Can't you bore the two tapers and then cut the tapers on the crank and cam shafts at the same topslide settings, they are not that small that you can't get a boring bar inside them?
-
I also need to machine the taper on the cam shaft and the crank shaft which means making a reamer.
Dave
Can't you bore the two tapers and then cut the tapers on the crank and cam shafts at the same topslide settings, they are not that small that you can't get a boring bar inside them?
Don't have the mating parts ready yet, and I want to cut the taper on the shafts first to position the cam gear. So....I'll just ream them
-
The last Wallaby pics were nearly two months ago We hear the words, but without pics do we believe anything is happening
WAh Wah Wah!....
-
Current state of play.....
Need to cut down the D bit and harden it.
Dave
-
Hot diggy dog Uncle Jed we got piccys! Looks good Dave but took you long enough to get us some piccys... :stickpoke: just saying......
Don
:popcornsmall:l
-
yeah....well...I have to download them to the computer...reduce the size by 4! save them and then post.....and I have to email them to myself, as I can't talk to this )@(()*@$( f phone!!!!.....
Getting there
Dave
-
Progress now verified :) Looks great Dave!!
Bill
-
Good to see progress; looks good Dave!
Dave
-
I have a water pump that will be driven off the cam shaft at the rear of the engine. "Howell water pump" I'll need to put a drive dog in the end of the shaft.
Additionally, I need to hollow out the crank pins, drill the oil passages, and cut a key way on the crankshaft, then that will be done.
After that, I need to make up the cam turning fixture ala Westbury, SteveHuck....ect.
Lots left to do.
Dave
-
Well like Tel said on page one, as long as you don't take longer than 17 years you are good :lolb: Speaking of which, we may need to send out a search party for him too. I did hear from Zee offline, told him to get his butt back on the forum.
Bill
-
I'll toggle him.....Dropbar mighta got him.... 8-)
-
Oh yeah, totally forgot about those pesky Dropbars.
B
-
Looking good Dave.
Only thing I don't get - how do you plan on getting the middle bearing on the crank ...?... or are one off the ones on the pictures actually a split one with both halves still soldered together ?
-
That's why there are 6 admiral. Next operation is to split each one in half. That will give me two halves for each.
I didn't do the soldered together method. This is more of a George Britnell method.
Dave
-
OK cut the first pair ( bearing 1 closest the front) That worked great! I left about .0005" for final fitting. I'm also going to pin these in the block.....but Dad's taxi has a call to take a pair of kids to their orthodontist.....8-(
Later today...
Dave
-
OK....got all 6 halves machined....messed up the last one.
....no I don't have pictures...you'll just have to take it on faith till tomorrow....I'll turn up a new one and cut it.
I have to set back up on the block tomorrow, cut the rear seal gland around the crank, drill a couple of holes and put a stud in the sump.
Then it just might come off the toolmakers cube......
I think I'll have some stuff turning roudyround this week..... 8-)....
Dave
-
OK Bearings done, not yet fitted, but close.
I have some holes to drill in them still, I'll need to set up the block for that
I also have some material inside the crank case that needs to come out as the bare casting fouls the crank just.
so I'll clean that up, and then set up to cut the rear shaft gland.
Dave
-
Glad to see your still at it buddy. The bearings look good to me. Are you going to line bore them when together?
Don
-
Glad to see your still at it buddy. The bearings look good to me. Are you going to line bore them when together?
Don
Nope. Line bored the engine block and then machined those bearings accurately...With a touch of scraping, I suspect they will seat nicely.
Dave
-
Those look great Dave. Thanks for the picture...looking forward to more...
Bill
-
Getting a N'oreaster today. Typical New England. Might get some shop time in though....I have two snowblowers....William and Ava!.... 8-)
Time for then to get some exercise!
Dave
-
What got me interested in the Wallaby in the first place....it reminded me of the Big 6 cylinder Waukesha's in the FWD fire trucks from my home town. My dad was the Chief Mechanic, and I got to wrench on these a little when I was a kid....
I just remember how big and loud they were...817 cubic inch, 250 HP @ 2400 RPM.
Just BEASTS.....anyway I found this technical brochure online for the same engine.....it's inspiration and reference for the exhaust manifold I think, and fit and finish....that's the look I'm after.
http://www.wehs.net/bulletins/bul_1594_145GKB_145GZB_Fire_07-51-r.pdf
Dave
-
Interesting to note that an electric starter was an option :o Can't imagine hand cranking one of these beasts!! I would assume most purchasers opted for the starter...lol.
Bill
-
Interesting to note that an electric starter was an option :o Can't imagine hand cranking one of these beasts!! I would assume most purchasers opted for the starter...lol.
Bill
5 3/4" bore x 6" stroke.....I'm not going to try it!!!!
-
Nothing wrong with starting a little thing like that with a handle. Field Marshalls were bigger and they were hand started.
They could be started with a blank shotgun cartridge, but these cost money and sweat was free. ;D
I used to start a Track Marshall when I was 15-ish, the Field Marshall was relatively common in the early '60's in UK.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_Marshall
See if I can find a pic. of a Track Marshal.
Dave
Here you go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwnuLwSNp2s
-
We had a WD 45 Allis Chamblers on the farm back in the 60's that when below 35 degrees would spin over until the battery ran down and wouldn't crank, however, if hand cranked, it would try and break your arm on the first attempt and take off smoothly on the second :shrug:
-
Nothing wrong with starting a little thing like that with a handle. Field Marshalls were bigger and they were hand started.
They could be started with a blank shotgun cartridge, but these cost money and sweat was free. ;D
I used to start a Track Marshall when I was 15-ish, the Field Marshall was relatively common in the early '60's in UK.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_Marshall
See if I can find a pic. of a Track Marshal.
Dave
Here you go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwnuLwSNp2s
Wait a minute....that's a diesel, and it had compression release. The Waukesha is a Gasoline engine...5 3/4 bore. 6" stroke straight 6. ( 13.2 liter)
No compression relief, and the engine alone is 2000 pounds.
Sorry....Stand next to this truck running....no I ain't gonna try and hand crank it....NO way No How....they called them "Screaming Pumpkins" for a good reason...they were orange...and beasts!.....
Hand cranked a bull dog Mack once. Like 1918 or 1920 vintage..4 cylinder...wouldn't do it again.
Dave
-
Just joking Dave ... :D
They were, despite what some folk said about them at the time, fairly benign things to start if you followed the procedure. Never kicked back on me, just wind about 4 turns on and the de-compressor automatically dropped out and off it went. Usually .. although I had involvement with two and one of them was invariably easier to get away.
I was no muscle kid either. Skinny 5'11" and about 130 lb. Didn't cast a shadow until my late 20's .... not any more .. :headscratch:
Dave
-
Progress!
I took a file across 1 bearing...and it dropped into place...no shake, but little friction!...
Feels great!
Now I can start getting busy on the top end.
Dave
-
family portrait.....thus far.
-
Looks like the camera is working again Dave ;D
Engine progress looks good as well. :)
Jo
-
Still following along :wine1:
I'm not sure if I have missed something on the bearing construction but you seem to have turned them as spools, split them and then fitted them. This would normally leave them oval :headscratch: Have you cut just one shell from each spool?
-
Still following along :wine1:
I'm not sure if I have missed something on the bearing construction but you seem to have turned them as spools, split them and then fitted them. This would normally leave them oval :headscratch: Have you cut just one shell from each spool?
Yes. I made 6 spools and from that 6 halves....sounds like a lot of work, but I like outcome a lot! Soldering them together means you have a layer of solder between the two halves when you bore them...otherwise there is no joint, and there is no guarantee that they'll stay together during the machining operations. This way, you cut the spool to what you want, and then mill off exactly half. In this case because of the flanges on each end, I just gripped them in the mill vise and took light cut till I got half way....Plus .001 for final fitting....a few strokes of a file and it's done. I can cut more if I want spares.
Dave
-
Thank you :cheers:
-
More progress! I tore a thread out of one of the tappet guide holes. I'll use a Loctite product there....It's not coming out very often
Cylinder bores are done, beginning to look like an engine!
-
Right spiffy Skippy :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
-
Family portrait.....now we're getting somewhere!
I'm done for the day...off to see the family....
Dave
-
Nice progress Dave. The upper casting looks pretty porous in the unmachined pics, but looks like most of it cleaned up. Enjoy the family time.
Bill
-
Yeah it doesn't seem too bad once you get under the 'skin"
Dave
-
Dave,
The Wallaby's looking good. Nice progress.
Art
-
Where's JO when you need her! 8-)
Time to make 5-40 studs for the oil sump......I need 8 for that.
Dave
-
While you are at it would you like to do 129 7BA for my triples covers ::)
Jo
-
Dave goes about it the right way making 8 or 10 at the time they are needed then it's not such a boring job as knocking out 100+ at a time. Will you be making them before or after all the square fixings for the B&W :mischief:
-
While you are at it would you like to do 129 7BA for my triples covers ::)
Jo
No....what Jason said.....good thing I didn't start the USS Ohio engine.....56 studs in the TOP HP cylinder cover ALONE. 8-)
Dave
-
While you are at it would you like to do 129 7BA for my triples covers ::)
Jo
Need a turret lathe...
......Oh Yeah ...I have one.....got 7Ba dies? and stud stock?
Dave
-
Good looking family shot buddy and glad to see you making some progress..... :ThumbsUp:
:popcorn:
Don
-
Sump studs made. Now to "fettle" the gear train....spacer washer here, a tapered collet for the cam shaft gear ( I just hardened and honed the taper D bit I made and it cuts very nice)
Goal, get all the gearing mounted with cover on and oil passages operable and totally ready to do work which includes drilling the crank oil passages...something I've been dreading!
I need to cut the cam lobes...which means I need to make the fixture described in the build article. Similar to Steve Hucks.
Once that is complete....time for connecting rods, pistons, rings and cylinders. comparatively....these are easy.
Coming together.
Dave
-
Ain't nothing wrong with doing a bit of "stud work". After 29 years together yesterday, Lou still seems to enjoy it : just saying 😜🤓😂 :lolb:
Cletus
-
got the cam shaft gear taper collet made up tonight... I need to co-bore the gear just a bit. I'll do that tomorrow....progress!...
Dave
-
Even without pics, that's a better visual than the previous post...Thanks :lolb:
Bill
-
Thanks Bill!
Dave
-
Finish off the bore of the camshaft gear to fit the taper bush. Snug fit with a Loctite groove. It's setting up. The taper reamer worked awesome!
Having and external 3C collet closer and machine able collets to 41/2 inches is kinda nice!....
Dave
-
On with the cam shaft fixture!.....
Dave
-
Progress and pictures both....sweet. Better than I have managed lately ::)
Bill
-
I had gears turning today!
whooooo hooo!
-
Video evidence.....
-
My near future!
http://www.floridaame.org/GalleryPages/IMG2008/Offset%20turning%20the%20camshaft.pdf
dave
-
Starting the cam turning fixture....I'm building it big enough to be a piece of tooling going forward. What is missing is the journal blocks that will hold the cam...that's the next two parts to make.
The holes are 10-32 with 1/8 reamed holes down the middle to locate the blocks
Its long enough to do the 917 cam shafts....I hate building fixtures more than once if I don't have to.
-
Looking forward to seeing that in use Dave. Both on the Wallaby and the 917 :)
Bill
-
Gonna get a box for it online....no time to build boxes, but this will be a nice fixture to have for sure....11" long
I have a special set of holes for the Wallaby camshaft drilled in it...and there is a flat on the back side so I can set back up on it and drill more if I need to going forward.
Dave
-
Looks good Dave. That's one thing I try to do as much as possible too, make tooling universal/multi use.
-Bob
-
I'm going to make the blocks today...along with the honeydoo list.......
Then I can get on with machining the lobes.....picked up a nice oak box in the bay for the fixture...cheap!....I couldn't have bought the brown stuff for what I paid shipped!...
Dave
-
Next....we make the indicator wheel...a pointer....and get some more screws!!!....
Dave
-
Sure wish you would video the cutting of one lobe :stir:
Cletus
-
I'll do that Cletus!....gotta make the protractor and pointer next...and get some 10-32 screws...
Dave
-
24" of snow coming, can the heater in my shop is dead.....got work to do.....
Dave
-
That stinks Dave on both counts. Hang tight.
-Bob
-
24" of snow coming, can the heater in my shop is dead.....got work to do.....
Dave
Yes I heard you guys were getting some snow! Don't work to hard snow moving can really suck some times!
-
Shop heat is now on....Snowing like a (*@#!(&(!*~ !
Dave
-
Man I feel guilty, we had a record high of 80 degrees here today. Hang in there Dave!! Hope you can enjoy the shop time at least.
Bill
-
Dave,
I heard the northeast was getting dumped on, I guess that means you. Don't throw out your back taking care of it. Good you got the heat back up! I've got to admit to never making a cam like that. I have used the rotary table in the mill method. I think having that slingin around the lathe scares me, just a little.
Art
-
Hi Dave,
ooohhhh that sounds cold!
Send some of that cold to the guys in Australia!...they had 48C in some place yesterday along with bush fires!
Hope everybody in Aus that's on here are safe!
Cheers Kerrin
-
OK....taking tomorrow off! SHOP TIME!!!!
I'll be starting early....gonna "Get my Wallaby On!"
Dave
-
Uh, don't forget the camera :stir: BTW; how's the talent?
Cletus
-
I'll be starting early....gonna "Get my Wallaby On!"
Wallaby? You're working on a wallaby? Is that the same wallaby from way back? :stickpoke:
;D
-
Uh, don't forget the camera :stir: BTW; how's the talent?
Cletus
Hey Cletus, Talent is doing better, managed to get to school today....
Yes Zee....THAT wallaby....though it's progressing now....Pesky Kids!!! :zap:
Dave
-
Yes Zee....THAT wallaby....though it's progressing now....Pesky Kids!!! :zap:
Yeah they can get in the way but are probably one of the best investments you can make.
(Don't take 'investments' so cold...you all know what I mean.) ;D
-
Putting the oil holes in the bearing shells using the block and bearing caps as a fixture.
Need to cut a keyway on the crank and in the crank pinion. and make an oil slinger. I'll get on that tonight
Going to bring this to the New England Model Engineering annual show tomorrow. Should be fun
Dave
-
Enjoy the show and take some pictures for us please.
Bill
-
Will do! I have the cam shaft turning on it's own... I still need to cut the lobes.., but I think the worst is behind me on this build.
The only scary part is cross drilling the crank for the #46 drill about 2" deep into alloy steel......what could go wrong!?!!!
Dave
-
Looking forward to the pictures from the show.
When's the last time you showed a family shot of the wallaby?
-
Took lots of pictures and video. Some nice pieces there...including a sectional model of "Sabino's" engine.......
Dave
-
Took lots of pictures and video. Some nice pieces there...including a sectional model of "Sabino's" engine.......
Glad to know. But...are you going to share? ;D :stickpoke:
-
Give me a bit of time...gotta get it in a format that the forum likes....
Dave
-
Ok. Got a squealing bearing in the mill counters shaft. Been putting off changing it... so now we change them all. I'll play on Samantha today.
-
OK....I've opened the door....took a swing at the cob webs....here we go Seems I've been away some time based on re reading my posts. Life's been in the way
When I left off, I was going to cut the cam. I still have the fixture, but, I think I'll restart with something a bit more domestic. Con rods.
I'm going to cut them from bronze. I'll make weights for the crank to suite. Lets see where I end up.
Dave
-
:whoohoo:
Wallaby time 8)
Jo
-
Welcome back to the shop Dave.
A little 'metal therapy' will make a world of difference
Mike :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
Welcome back to the shop Dave.
A little 'metal therapy' will make a world of difference
Mike :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I think you're right Mike.....
Happy 4th Everyone!
Dave
-
Awesome Dave! I'm looking forward to progress pictures.
-Bob
-
Great Dave. Welcome back to the shop!! Bob, nice to see you too!! Happy 4th 🇺🇸
Bill
-
Enjoy your shop time, Dave! It's certainly been a while, but life is like that, isn't it?
Kim
-
Thanks for the well wishes everyone!...
All I had was some round stock.....OH well....can't says I've spent money in the shop lately, so theres my chance!
Two blank conrods being set up to be drilled and brought to 1/2" width at the crank pin journal end which is up, then parted That will give me a reference when it goes back on the mill
Now I'm rummaging around looking for a 1/16 or 3/32 saw. Print says 6BA so I'll go 4-40 in the infernal measurement.
I'm going to set this up on the Aciera F1 and bore the ends to suit and then carve it with the dividing head working all four sides, so I have a 3/8 spigot on each end for driving it in a collet.
The F1 dividing head can tilt and swivel, so I can do all the machining without making holding fixtures....just dial in the angles and cut.
Dave
-
Looking forward to seeing more progress Dave, it's good to see you back in the shop! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
Looking forward to seeing more progress Dave, it's good to see you back in the shop! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
The leg gets tired fast, so I have to take breaks periodically, but it is progress. Need more fatigue mats.
My daughter was out there with me cleaning up stuff....guess it's time to mess it up again....LOL
Dave
-
My daughter was out there with me cleaning up stuff....guess it's time to mess it up again....LOL
:pinkelephant:
-
OK the biggest saw I have an arbor for has a depth of cut of 7/16 I need it to cut 1/2.
I can try to cut it, but I suspect if I cut in two passes, it won't be pretty.
What I may do is drill a hole in the big end, undersize, say .281. Then split it front and rear in two cuts.
I'm gonna mole that one over a bit...and let the Ibuprofen kick in.
Dave
-
OK the biggest saw I have an arbor for has a depth of cut of 7/16 I need it to cut 1/2.
I can try to cut it, but I suspect if I cut in two passes, it won't be pretty.
What I may do is drill a hole in the big end, undersize, say .281. Then split it front and rear in two cuts.
I'm gonna mole that one over a bit...and let the Ibuprofen kick in.
Dave
OK Gonna do the above. Cooking right now...steak tips and burgers.....yumm!
-
Nice...what time should we be there?? :cheers:
Bill
-
Nice...what time should we be there?? :cheers:
Bill
Better be here in the next 20 minutes before the Velociraptors beat you to it!!…. I can't hold them off for very long!
Dave
-
OK...so I had my festivities, and got back at it. Picture came out blurry, but I have the cap parted, and ready to be tapped and put back together and continued
More to come.....WAY too hot out in the shop in the afternoon with the sun beating on it.
Dave
-
Also on the list, I have a 4" Sherline Rotary table. It was adapted to an F1 already, but the mounting shaft is .003" undersize from 35mm. ( 1.375 nominal stock)
As a result, I don't like the fit, and I'm not going to clamp it down to an undersized stem. So I purchased a piece of 1.5" 12L14 which I'll machine to 35mm exactly and adapt it to the base of the rotary table
This will come in handy for the conrod ends.
Dave
-
Here's what they go for …….. :insane: :o
-
Here's what they go for …….. :insane: :o
Gack!
Someone put the part number in the price field!
:o
-
Here's what they go for
.. :insane: :o
Gack!
Someone put the part number in the price field!
:o
Yeah...that ain't happening...
-
At that price it should at least be gold plated. That is pricey!!!
Bill
-
All the F1 stuff is unobtanium. So when something good goes on the bay....strap yourself in! :DrinkPint:
-
OK need screws.....
Then we can get busy
I have some painting to do today as well.
Dave
-
And sitting in front of the Levin I see :). The parts look good Dave.
Bill
-
Went to the hardware store to buy some screws....don't carry them that small....When to our LHS ( Local Hobby Store) Oh yeah....4-40 any length you want! :lolb:
Dave
-
When to our LHS ( Local Hobby Store) Oh yeah....4-40 any length you want! :lolb:
Lucky guy. It seems all the hobby shops near me have closed.
I discovered that when I retired and was quite bummed.
Same for my favorite hardware store. It was old style and carried, from what I can tell, every kind of screw, bolt, nut, and drill bit I ever needed.
-
When to our LHS ( Local Hobby Store) Oh yeah....4-40 any length you want! :lolb:
Lucky guy. It seems all the hobby shops near me have closed.
I discovered that when I retired and was quite bummed.
Same for my favorite hardware store. It was old style and carried, from what I can tell, every kind of screw, bolt, nut, and drill bit I ever needed.
I love the old style stores - was very bummed when the couple near me retired and closed up.
-
That's OK....can't for the life of me find my 4-40 tap....but my 1.5" round stock showed up....I'll get a tap tomorrow.
Dave
-
The local hobby shop are rapidly going the way of many brick and mortar places thanks to the internet. I miss the one we used to have here too. There are a few old hardware stores left, but who knows for how long.
Bill
-
I would smell a business opportunity but the business model probably wouldn't fly these days.
Back in the day, our local hobby shop also had a 1/32 scale slot car system. Loads of fun getting together with some friends and racing.
But the owner probably wasn't making a lot of money on us.
I'm not sure if it was a private or franchised...and franchising can sometimes be a killer (you can't customize to your local community).
Hm...hobby shop + maker space + place to play.
Oops...sorry for the sideline Dave. (Naturally, with you and your son racing...I thought maybe it's an idea for you. ;D )
-
I would smell a business opportunity but the business model probably wouldn't fly these days.
Back in the day, our local hobby shop also had a 1/32 scale slot car system. Loads of fun getting together with some friends and racing.
But the owner probably wasn't making a lot of money on us.
I'm not sure if it was a private or franchised...and franchising can sometimes be a killer (you can't customize to your local community).
Hm...hobby shop + maker space + place to play.
Oops...sorry for the sideline Dave. (Naturally, with you and your son racing...I thought maybe it's an idea for you. ;D )
You'd think....most of the RC drivers are pretty …….delicate.
the track doesn't have enough traction! It has too MUCH traction! The jumps are too big! The jumps are too small!....Hey I bought the latest car, why doesn't it beat all the others first time on the track?!
You'd be amazed.....William sometimes gets frustrated with a track, but I keep telling him....work the set up....and we get there...regardless....that's why he wins races....work your set up...
But as a business opp...... :vomit:
-
But as a business opp...... :vomit:
:lolb: Gotcha.
As for the condition of the track...I suspect many sports (skiing, curling, even bowling!...) would have the same complaints.
It's like dancing...never on a rug...and never in tennis shoes.
-
OK - so we are back to the old saying in racing …:
How do you make a small fortune in racing …… :shrug: ….. You start out with a big one :lolb:
Still rather impressed with the both of you - and yes it does require an effort to win :cheers:
-
OK - so we are back to the old saying in racing …:
How do you make a small fortune in racing …… :shrug: ….. You start out with a big one :lolb:
Still rather impressed with the both of you - and yes it does require an effort to win :cheers:
Thanks Admiral. I'm blessed with great kids, and I'm really blessed to be part of their passions and day to day lives. Kinda rare from what I've seen once they get to "that" age. We're tight.
The conversations have NO boundary's Sex, Drugs, Rock and roll.....doesn't matter.
Now I hear there's a Wallaby lurking around here somewhere...…..
8)
-
My daughter was out there with me cleaning up stuff....guess it's time to mess it up again....LOL
:pinkelephant:
I have a bunch of fatigue mats I picked up in a "free stuff" pile on the side of the road, each about 2' square. Let me know if you want a few...
-
Sure!!!!
-
Well After I took my wife to the doctor, took her to dinner....something we've not done in over 2 years!....got home, received the new radio receivers for William, helped start the remodeling of my daughters room, and tried to sort out the gremlins in Williams RC plane project.....I got the 4-40 holes in the conrods tapped....as I now have a full set of brand new 4-40 taps taper bottom, plug and gun.
Ive almost forgotten how nice a new HIGH quality tap cuts... 8)
Not much progress...but it advanced...
Dave
-
Progress is progress Dave. Remember the tortoise won the race in the end.
Bill
-
I'm very jealous of all the free time some of our membership have fallen into!...ah well,, Ive only been professionally employed for 32 years....I'm still a youngster!.... :lolb:
OK.... Tonight I can get the conrods going. Saturday we have a test and tune day at a track in Connecticut, and if I have anything left I'll continue the conrods in the evening
Sunday is plane day!......I'll describe that adventure else where...
Dave
-
Glad to see you back at work in the old shed. Just wondering; do you need to borrow a camera :stickpoke: :lolb: :lolb: Carry on 8)
Cletus
-
Glad to see you back at work in the old shed. Just wondering; do you need to borrow a camera :stickpoke: :lolb: :lolb: Carry on 8)
Cletus
Man it must be a slow night in Springfield if a picture of 4 tapped holes gets your juices flowing brotha,...….
:lolb:
-
Glad to see you back at work in the old shed. Just wondering; do you need to borrow a camera :stickpoke: :lolb: :lolb: Carry on 8)
Cletus
Man it must be a slow night in Springfield if a picture of 4 tapped holes gets your juices flowing brotha,...….
:lolb:
Well...you are talking about Eric. :lolb: :lolb:
-
So, I had finished watching the paint dry on some steps that I had painted and needed something to look at :lolb:
Cletus
-
Glad to see you back at work in the old shed. Just wondering; do you need to borrow a camera :stickpoke: :lolb: :lolb: Carry on 8)
Cletus
Man it must be a slow night in Springfield if a picture of 4 tapped holes gets your juices flowing brotha,...….
:lolb:
Keep the old Dog straight Dave and in line he needs it. :lolb:
:cheers:
Don
-
Glad to see you back at work in the old shed. Just wondering; do you need to borrow a camera :stickpoke: :lolb: :lolb: Carry on 8)
Cletus
Man it must be a slow night in Springfield if a picture of 4 tapped holes gets your juices flowing brotha,...….
:lolb:
Keep the old Dog straight Dave and in line he needs it. :lolb:
:cheers:
Don
I'll do my best brothah…..but that's a tall order to fill!
OK...progress I got two connecting rods roughed out and bored...till I blew the wrist pin hole in one of them, so I now have a Single unfinished Conrod! YEAH! :pinkelephant: :cartwheel: :lolb:
Pictures coming.....I need a shower, and a beer....and not in that order.
Dave
-
And don't forget the plane update ;D
Bill
-
Hoping for some material today.....Tomorrow is looking decidedly iffy for racing....forecast keeps getting worse....could be in the shop!... :cartwheel:
-
The silver lining as they say....shop time!! ;)
Bill
-
OK got some bar stock today! :whoohoo:
Maybe tonight....and we'll watch the weather....
Dave
-
OK....We could have raced....I backed out as I was convinced it was going to get called....it didn't .....ah well
Anyway. I got some time in the shop...though the leg is in rough shape now...slow progress I have some anti-fatique matts coming...Thanks Mike!!!
Two conrods and a fixture to shape them with. I was going to do it with the dividing head, but it's just not ridgid enough for the metal removal
so....I started over and made two new rods I like these better. Much metal to remove. This fixture is for rounding the ends somewhat, Westbury states to do it on a mandrel in the 4 jaw...hmmmm...I like this way better... but I've got lots of vise work to do first.
I'll remove most of the metal on the Clausing...much quicker
We progress.....
Dave
-
Glad to see you moving along with this build Dave.
-Bob
-
Glad to see you moving along with this build Dave.
-Bob
Meeeeee Tooo!
I see my retirement from racing coming....I have things I want to do …..and he'll get his license soon enough.
Dave
-
And it even has a picture! :ThumbsUp:
Good to see progress Dave.
Dave
Glad to see you moving along with this build Dave.
-Bob
Meeeeee Tooo!
I see my retirement from racing coming....I have things I want to do …..and he'll get his license soon enough.
Dave
-
And it even has a picture! :ThumbsUp:
Good to see progress Dave.
Dave
Glad to see you moving along with this build Dave.
-Bob
Meeeeee Tooo!
I see my retirement from racing coming....I have things I want to do
..and he'll get his license soon enough.
Dave
My quad didn't like it, but I did make some progress. Ibuprofen is a wonderful thing!
Dave
-
Hot dog, the camera is working :lolb:. Man I’m glad to see you start metal whittling again. Now when our driving talent gets those driving license; you know what else comes along about that time ( same old thing that makes a tomcat howl all night :old:) Now I’m hoping he’s going to try to impress the aforementioned with his talents on the track. The greatest gift you can give a child is wings that support steady flight :old:. Sooo, you can get back in the old shid. Hey, I have a buddy that tore up an ankle and he built what looks like a big padded 30 degree angle block and he rests his leg on it without really sitting :shrug:. Tell everybody hey.
Cletus
-
Hot dog, the camera is working :lolb:. Man I’m glad to see you start metal whittling again. Now when our driving talent gets those driving license; you know what else comes along about that time ( same old thing that makes a tomcat howl all night :old:) Now I’m hoping he’s going to try to impress the aforementioned with his talents on the track. The greatest gift you can give a child is wings that support steady flight :old:. Sooo, you can get back in the old shid. Hey, I have a buddy that tore up an ankle and he built what looks like a big padded 30 degree angle block and he rests his leg on it without really sitting :shrug:. Tell everybody hey.
Cletus
Hey Bud! He had a interesting request recently....a girl calls, asks if he can go with her and her 2 friends to the movies.....Sure! I'll drive ya over....so 3 girls....and William.....He's well spoken, and very witty...and fairly good looking...all unlike his father... :lolb:... I think he'll do just fine.
Dave
-
OK spent some time doing a G job sketch of the con rod. the problem with some of these prints is they're meant for a start with a casting. I don't have many of those, so I have to fill in the missing dimensions to get what I need to machine the parts. Here's the con rod drawing from the article, and my updated one, meant for cutting from the solid. That will help a lot
I spent some time getting rid of extra set ups where I can I can do most of this in 3 set ups, including both sides.
-
And I resisted the urge to fire up the Tormach P440NC at work and just let it go......you guys should be proud of me....
Dave
-
Hey Bud! He had a interesting request recently....a girl calls, asks if he can go with her and her 2 friends to the movies.....Sure! I'll drive ya over....so 3 girls....and William.....He's well spoken, and very witty...and fairly good looking...all unlike his father... :lolb:... I think he'll do just fine.
A new interest. The beginning of the end of car and plane racing. Or rather...a long pause. The old interests will come back. ;D
He'll do fine. Has a great dad.
-
Hey Bud! He had a interesting request recently....a girl calls, asks if he can go with her and her 2 friends to the movies.....Sure! I'll drive ya over....so 3 girls....and William.....He's well spoken, and very witty...and fairly good looking...all unlike his father... :lolb:... I think he'll do just fine.
A new interest. The beginning of the end of car and plane racing. Or rather...a long pause. The old interests will come back. ;D
He'll do fine. Has a great dad.
He will....so will my daughter....great kids...good heads on their shoulders....good looking …….they'll do fine I'm not quite ready to retire...though some days I feel far closer than others. In any case...William knows about it. The transition will take some time, but it will happens....Been 5 years.
As to being a great Dad? Well I try to fill those shoes...I always feel like I could do better....but I do know I try....and perhaps more importantly....my kids know I try.
Dave
-
Wow, 5 years, where does the time go? I remember when you purchased the first car/truck; seems like yesterday.
Dave
-
The Kids taller than me now too! About 5 11....amazing
We go to a race, and he orders Domino's to deliver....I get my 12" sandwich....he gets 2 12" sandwiches and a 12" dipping bread thing....he eats all that as fast as I eat my one!!!....and the kis about 12" in diameter....I think his legs hollow or something
Dave
-
[quote author=steamer link=topic=237.msg178892#msg178892 date=1532390861
As to being a great Dad? Well I try to fill those shoes...I always feel like I could do better....but I do know I try....and perhaps more importantly....my kids know I try.
[/quote]
That's the drive. It's needed. Anyone who thinks they're a great dad...isn't. When it comes to your kids...you always want to be better. :ThumbsUp:
-
[quote author=steamer link=topic=237.msg178892#msg178892 date=1532390861
As to being a great Dad? Well I try to fill those shoes...I always feel like I could do better....but I do know I try....and perhaps more importantly....my kids know I try.
That's the drive. It's needed. Anyone who thinks they're a great dad...isn't. When it comes to your kids...you always want to be better. :ThumbsUp:
[/quote]
Let me walk that back a bit. I think I'm a pretty good Dad. And according to my kids...maybe one of the greatest.
I just don't want to cross the finish line and be the greatest. I know I can always do more/better. That's a dad.
-
[quote author=steamer link=topic=237.msg178892#msg178892 date=1532390861
As to being a great Dad? Well I try to fill those shoes...I always feel like I could do better....but I do know I try....and perhaps more importantly....my kids know I try.
That's the drive. It's needed. Anyone who thinks they're a great dad...isn't. When it comes to your kids...you always want to be better. :ThumbsUp:
[/quote]
Got to Zee....they're my kids!
-
[quote author=steamer link=topic=237.msg178892#msg178892 date=1532390861
As to being a great Dad? Well I try to fill those shoes...I always feel like I could do better....but I do know I try....and perhaps more importantly....my kids know I try.
That's the drive. It's needed. Anyone who thinks they're a great dad...isn't. When it comes to your kids...you always want to be better. :ThumbsUp:
Let me walk that back a bit. I think I'm a pretty good Dad. And according to my kids...maybe one of the greatest.
I just don't want to cross the finish line and be the greatest. I know I can always do more/better. That's a dad.
[/quote]
Are ya ever really...I mean REALLY finished? I doubt it.
-
Just scrapped another rod.....1 step forward.....2 back..
Dave
-
Blame it on the new mats Dave. ;) Its the extra height that did it :lolb:
Bill
-
Blame it on the new mats Dave. ;) Its the extra height that did it :lolb:
Bill
Nope....zero'd the wrong side of the edge finder.....My dro is positive in the opposite directions from work...and well...I didn't catch it.
Regroup....put in my daughters closet unit, and go make a new conrod blank.....
Dave
-
Well as long as you are stepping forward and back, you’re still dancing. Probably will use the stock from the scrapped rod on something else anyway.
Cletus
-
Getting back at it. Its feeling right again. Lets see how the leg feels. Need to mod my chair a touch.
-
Great to see you back in the shop Dave. Hope the leg will hold up and keep getting stronger.
Bill
-
Great to see you back in the shop Dave. Hope the leg will hold up and keep getting stronger.
Bill
Yup Today I can get up out of a chair, and it doesn't hurt....that's a first in nearly a year.
-
Awesome to see you back at Dave.
-Bob
-
Awesome to see you back at Dave.
-Bob
Thanks bud....It's good to want to do it again. tired of hurtin
-
Ordered some stock today for pistons, rods and cylinder liners. My Father in law is here till tonight, but after that I'll have some more time I think
Dave
-
That's all good news Dave. There is nothing like a bit of 'metal therapy' to make you feel a whole lot better.
Mike :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
That's all good news Dave. There is nothing like a bit of 'metal therapy' to make you feel a whole lot better.
Mike :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Couldn't agree more!
-
Hay Dave,
Did you ever get that zipper tattoo done?
It's time to post a photo.
No photo.. then it didn't happen.
Mike :mischief:
-
Not yet its a ways off 2 more years..when shes 18.
-
Ok Dave need to see some photos soon ok! Glad to see you getting on the mend my brother..... :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
-
Ok Dave need to see some photos soon ok! Glad to see you getting on the mend my brother..... :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
Will do Don The next thing I'm doing tomorrow is a pair of these.....should be simple, and I get to try out my new shop chair at the lathe.
If I get that far....I'll work on the rods some more. Just got sticks of material for the rods, pistons and cylinder liners I don't think William will be racing tomorrow.
but I'll be starting with some lathe clean up.....it's buried.
Dave
-
Got off to a slow start, but making chips on liners today. Lots of stock to come out of these tempted to.fire up the logan....but Samantha Bell is making such a sweet sound.
-
One down and one to go!
-
Look good Dave. What kind of fit/attachment method are you going for?
Bill
-
Bet it feels good to be back in the shop.
cheers :cheers:
Mike
-
Look good Dave. What kind of fit/attachment method are you going for?
Bill
Light press with some loctite or JB weld.
Bet it feels good to be back in the shop.
cheers :cheers:
Mike
Its the first time ive felt decent in the shop and got a chance to try the shop chair. Felt good!
-
Bet it feels good to be back in the shop.
cheers :cheers:
Mike
I'll be firing up the Logan when the 917 gets started....it hogs stock in a hurry....can't push Samantha that hard. The Logan will take a 15/16 drill as fast as you can spin the feed screw. 8-)
-
hey Steamer!
Great to see you are feeling good enough to get out in the shop. Nice work and i'll be popping in to check progress.
-
Thanks Steve!
-
Dave,
Glad to see you are able to get back into the shop, and the knee is feeling better.
Art
-
Dave,
Glad to see you are able to get back into the shop, and the knee is feeling better.
Art
Thanks Art, The quadricep is getting stronger...another month or so and it'll be what it'll be, though I have full range of motion, which is encouraging. Strength and endurance is the issue now. Walking a quarter mile is exhausting, and it wasnt' before...but it gets better in spits and spurts....we'll see. Glad I built my boat when I did!
Dave
-
Glad to see you back in the shop :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
-
Got the rest of my stock!!!
OK two cylinder liners done and dusted fairly uneventfully. They will press home, but before I do, I'll add loctite ect. and then lap them to fit. So I need to make a 1" split lap
Next will be pistons and rings to suite. I'll be using the Trimble method...and D/25 for a 0.038" x 0.0380" ring...I have a 1mm parting tool...
Dave
-
And PS....the leg felt good!!!
Dave
-
Great to see progress Dave!
Dave
-
Great to see progress Dave!
Dave
It is! I'll start tomorrow morning with the lap and the pistons...then I have some "Work work" to do
Dave
-
And PS....the leg felt good!!!
Good to hear!
-
Good on the leg part but :ThumbsDown: on the work work!! Still good to see you getting some shop time though.
Bill
-
William has a charity race today. Toys for Tots. He's there without me. I've got the honey do list which is near complete, then there's Tutoring my daughter for her physics exam...and the Work Work...but I think some shop time will happen today
Dave
-
Roughed out the pistons, I've got the inside cobore done, and left 0.030 on the OD. Next step is to put the wrist pin holes in. After that I'll use the wrist pin hole and a pin to clock the embryonic piston to put the slot in for the con rod. Next, bond in the cylinders, and lap the bores to finish size, which will be about 1.003 to 1.005...somewhere there. I'll then turn the pistons to suite while mounted on a mandrel with a draw bolt that pulls on a stand in wrist pin. Typical Westbury practice.
Dave
And yeah.....William TQ'd and won today as well.
-
Good day on both counts then!!
Bill
-
Got the stems cut to mount the pistons in the mill in a collet. That will let me drill the wrist pin and cut the slots inside in one set up. I also got a new handle for the Aciera rotary table (Sherline with mods)
It's a nice big juicy crank.....love a crank on a rotary table...I'll finish that off tomorrow night.
Pictures tomorrow....gotta turn in
Dave
-
Well what a lovely surprise: Steamer in the ol' shid. Great to see you back at it. I'll be keeping an eye on this one fer sure.
Eric
-
Embryonic pistons with chucking stubbs. I've put the wrist pin hole in, now to machine the pocket for the connecting rod.
Getting there.
An hour at a time....at least the time span in the shop is increasing!.....Every time it gets a bit stronger, I can feel all wires....they don't hurt, but it kinda feels like i've stretched a net over the muscles and tendons...then that sensation goes away, and the progress levels out till the next jump.....wierd...
Dave
-
It's still some nice progress Dave. They are looking good too!
Bill
-
Yeah I was standing for about an hour for those parts, so i'm a bit tired currently, but that's how it gets stronger right?
Dave
-
Well a few months ago, even that wouldn't have been possible, so you've come a long way !!
Bill
-
A little more done today
finished out the inside of the pistons, they are about .030 over currently. Next, seat the cylinder sleeves home in the block, and machine to deck height. Currently about 0.020" over size. Then make a lap and finish the ID of the cylinder liners to finish size, and then measure the finished bore. Then machine the pistons to final size and make and size some piston rings Bore is nominally 1.00".
-
Looks good Dave!
Dave
-
Nice.
What piston clearance will you aim for?
Mike
-
Nice.
What piston clearance will you aim for?
Mike
0.003" at the skirt, and 0.006" at the crown. With Aluminum pistons
I got the liners in today, ans well as a repair on the block. The Tappet guides go in with a 3/8-40 thread. The Aluminum in the block is pretty soft, and it picked up while tapping and damaged the threads. To fix this, I reamed the holes out, and made up some 3/8 OD x 5/16-40 ID sleeves out of 6061-T6, and pressed them home, and then re threaded the tappet guides to 5/16-40 That all worked a treat!... I have the block stripped down, so I'll finish the final machining of everything while it's stripped including deck height, water pump mount, oil passages, and water passages. and the head bolts and water passages and the dip stick, and give it a good cleaning and a good rub down and some primer. Hmmmmm what color...I'm thinking British green.
Dave
-
What no pictures Dave? Zee's gonna be all over that :Lol:
Bill
-
Give me a minute...my daughter is in physics homework melt down........ :zap: :'( ::)
-
Got it...homework is more important!!
Bill
-
Here we go...current state of play...I have about 0.05 to take off the deck...or so.
Dave
-
That is looking great Dave and the repair tapoet guide may even be better than the original plans called for. Nice!!
Bill
-
Good to see you making great progress buddy! :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
-
Good to see you making great progress buddy! :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
Thanks Don! Feels good too!
I was able to crank out most of the cylinder lap tonight as well, time to put it up for the night.
Dave
-
Engine is really shaping up, Dave! It's good to hear the healing is going well. Takes a while but you'll get there.
:ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Pete
-
Thanks Pete! I think i might be paying fornit tomorrow,but thats ok.
Dave
-
Dave,
You are making good progress. Take it easy on the knee. I was wondering about the cylinder/piston clearance. I have usually aimed for .001 and have had good success with that. My engines have been air cooled though & I don't know how much difference that makes. Great work!
Art
-
Westbury suggested .006 at the crown though that seems.excessive....this is water cooled.
Dave
-
Looking good :praise2: :praise2: As I understand it the piston clearance with aluminium pistons depends on the alloy :headscratch: I had to keep increasing the clearances on my horizontal engine due to piston pick up.
-
Looking good :praise2: :praise2: As I understand it the piston clearance with aluminium pistons depends on the alloy :headscratch: I had to keep increasing the clearances on my horizontal engine due to piston pick up.
Yes absolutely varies with alloy...but its the difference in temperature that im not sure of. Im going to check another well thought out design that i have plans for...and ill fill ya in
-
Under the heading of "Something every day"...I decked the block to height + 0.005. I'll finish it on the Aciera....it's more accurate
Dave
-
Hope the leg isn't paying too much today Dave.
Bill
-
:zap: leg cramps.....in my thigh.
-
Dave,
Do you have stretches & PT you're needing to do? & does it help when you stand a lot to do them. The piston for the Upshur vertical single I made to whatever the prints said with an unnamed stick of aluminum. VAL I held to a .001 using 2024.
Art
-
Looking good Dave.
-Bob
-
The design I was looking at had a cast iron sleeve and a cast iron piston and 3 rings. The piston was to be 0.001" under the nore size. I have a few more references ill keep looking
-
That sounds better .003 & .006 just sounded rather large.
Art
-
Fer what it’s worth from here in old Springbucket: models aside; pretty much any engine I’ve ever put together was at around .001-.0015 at the skirt of the piston. Probably wasn’t the high tech way, but, we always inserted the piston in the bore backwards, without rings, and measured the clearance at the skirt with feeler gages. Of course we were just po country folks.
Eric
-
If it works its right!
Dave
-
If .001 works for an iron piston in an iron sleeve then youll need double that for aluminim pistons in iron sleeves. So .002" at the crown and .001 at the skirt.
-
That sure sounds a lot more reasonable Dave. Guess it may depend on expected run times too though.
Bill
-
That sure sounds a lot more reasonable Dave. Guess it may depend on expected run times too though.
Bill
That will depend on the temperature. I have a few more references, but Aluminum has a Thermal Expansion Coefficient that is double that of iron, hence my comment that it needs to be more gap than an iron piston.
....But .0015 sounds right now doesnt?
Dave
-
The cylinder sleeve can expand some too, just at a slower rate. At least that my thought. Now the Porsche engine may need some further thinking. :)
Bill
-
It does. so here's what I did.
A chevy 350 with AISI 4032 alloy pistons that are 4.155" need 0.0042 nearly maximum clearance as per some looked up references.. I rounded that to 0.001" / inch of diameter.
AISI 4032 Hypereutectic has a Linear coefficent of expansion that is 0.781 that of 6061-T6 aluminum. That said....the 6061-T6 needs 1.28 times as much clearance...or about 0.00128"/inch...assuming the pistons are heated to the same temperature.
Now...practically, I doubt the model pistons get anywhere near as hot as a hard working Chevy 350... so.....0.001" to 0.0015"/ inch of diameter would seem fine on a water cooled, low compression ratio model engine.
See Cletus! You can count on the good ol country boys....
Dave
-
The cylinder sleeve can expand some too, just at a slower rate. At least that my thought. Now the Porsche engine may need some further thinking. :)
Bill
That might require a mule motor to sort out...though I'd start with 0.0015, or use 4032 alloy and run the same percentage clearance as the real engine did.
Dave
-
Hey Dave
Attached are a couple charts that you and the other guys might find useful.
Dave
-
Hey Dave
Attached are a couple charts that you and the other guys might fine useful.
Dave
Interesting! These charts confirm ETW's numbers!!! :lolb:
Dave
-
ETW's comments about the piston fit. My rings are going to be .04 thick x 0.045 wide, and I'll have 2 of them I'm wondering about some oil control holes in the skirt like J E Howells V twin.
Then again, I Just make them as is and experiment later...
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
I would go along with the Westbury piston clearances. It's the rings that do the sealing. while the piston is there to take the combustion loads. I am a firm believer in generous piston clearance with an aluminium ringed piston. Clearance will ensure good lubrication of the piston skirt and so prevent rubs and seizures. I ended up in a ditch. beside the track, a couple of times due to seized pistons.
Hang loose, as they say
Mike
-
I agree Mike at least at the crown...it can get a bit tighter at the skirt.
-
I agree as well although it is difficult to really know the clearances unless you have some quite precise bore measuring equipment. Outside diameters are relatively easy and if the bores have been finished to a plug gauge you have a chance of knowing what is really going on otherwise it is just feel ::) I have also tried measuring the clearance by sliding a feeler gauge between the piston and the bore but that also has uncertainties :headscratch:
-
A snap gage will get me pretty close I think.
Dave
-
Snap gage is way “close enuf” . Like I said, we used a thou and a half feeler gage to see if it was “go-no go” . Which got me to thinking: how many of y’all have used “Plastigage”? Hey man, what’s the candy bar of choice this year 8). Sorry, trying to kill two rabbits with one shell :lolb:.
Whiskey Out
Eric
-
Snap gage is way “close enuf” . Like I said, we used a thou and a half feeler gage to see if it was “go-no go” . Which got me to thinking: how many of y’all have used “Plastigage”? Hey man, what’s the candy bar of choice this year 8). Sorry, trying to kill two rabbits with one shell :lolb:.
Whiskey Out
Eric
That hasnt changed any.....8-)
-
Ok I finished off the tappet bushings. and I started checking the block. From the centerline of the crank to the seating surface of the tappet bushings should be 1.625. It's currently 2.060 :o So some stock needs to come off of that. I'll double and triple check that one!!!
I also need to drill and tap the dip stick/breather hole, and bring the deck height in to final size or 3.3125, as it's about 0.005" oversize currently.
So I need to make a fixture plate, and that will allow me to hang this part on an angle and right on the mill table.
Additionally, I finished making the lap for the cylinder liners.
We progress!......
Dave
-
Sorted out the tappet bushing height issue, and will make tappets next...but after I finish lap the bores, and finish the pistons and rings.
It's coming along...I got 3 1/2 hours out there today.
tired....but it's longer than I've been in there in a while....
PS If you build this engine, it calls for a 7/16 across the flats on the tappet bushings. If you make them that size, you can't get a wrench on them. I made them 3/8 across the flats....much better.
Dave
-
:pics:. :lolb:
Bill
-
Agree. Second the motion. :ROFL:
:stickpoke:
:cheers:
Pete
-
It is nice to see you really making progress Dave.
-Bob
-
It is nice to see you really making progress Dave.
-Bob
Its' nice to be healthy enough to do something again....though I can't do it as long as I used to thats for sure. 3 1/2 hours yesterday. I used to be able to do it for 14.....
Ah well, none of us are getting any younger.
Dave
Yeah Yeah Yeah,......I know....take pictures
-
Here are the tappet bushings installed I made them longer to better seal the tappets, and I made the hexes 3/8 instead of 7/16" they are on 1/2 inch centers so no way to get a wrench in there
-
Yep that shows the tightness you mentioned earlier. The smaller hex size shouldn't matter at all. Looking nice though!!!
Bill
-
I wouldn't care about the size being smaller as they look (fantastic) like they are a perfect fit and elegant too :ThumbsUp:
-
i have the 1831 version of this in bronze i bought it as an unfinished engine i have put it away untill others are finished
thought i had a photo but cant find it on the computer
great to see this one coming together
-
Thanks Admiral,
Ok started the lapping. The goemetry and finish is good, one cylinder is about 0.0006" bigger than the other. I dont think thats a big deal....im not making 100 of them. A little more.and leave it be.
-
Nice work Steamer! Bet there are a few guys out there wishing they reduced the size of the tappet bushings. Good call.
-
Thanks Steve! How the plug factory coming along?
Dave
-
Looking good Tatah :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
-
Thanks Cletus
Cylinders are done. 1.005 and 1.0045.....
Time to finish the pistons.
Dave
-
Cylinders are done. 1.005 and 1.0045.....
Time to finish the pistons.
Dave
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
And some pictures...
-
Starting to look like an engine....
-
Dave,
Lookin great, definitely looking like an engine.
Art
-
Thanks Steve! How the plug factory coming along?
Dave
I have 1/4-32 side fire (Dale Detrich design) $10
8-40 side fire $15
8-40 with conventional ground strap $15
Tomorrow I am going to make Insulators for 10-40's. I started bases but some tooling wont be here until Jan 5th. I would think I will have 10-40 done by the end of Jan. Would be sooner but i have to work every day from the 2nd - 12th.
10-40's will be $15
-
Sounds good buddy let me know when you have them
-
Lookin' pretty there, Dave! :popcorn:
Kim
-
.....but i have to work every day from the 2nd - 12th.
Sounds horrible :disappointed:
Jo
-
Lookin' pretty there, Dave! :popcorn:
Kim
Thanks Kim!
-
Definitely looking like an engine Dave, and a nice on too! The new lighting must be making things easier too now that you can see :)
Bill
-
Enough light is always good.
Art
-
.....but i have to work every day from the 2nd - 12th.
Sounds horrible :disappointed:
Jo
No big deal. I only worked 8 days this month.
-
Definitely looking like an engine Dave, and a nice on too! The new lighting must be making things easier too now that you can see :)
Bill
It does Bill. gives you a whole new outlook I'll tell ya!
I finished the liners. Now on to the pistons. I parted off the chucking pieces, and made up a Westbury holding fixture which is a turned spigot that fits the piston recess and back face tight and held on with a eye bolt and a temporary wrist pin. But before I do that, I need to work up a 0.040" ring grooving tool for the piston rings. Pictures tomorrow.. i got a lot done today, including the rotary table adapter as well. I'll take pictures of that and update tomorrow
Dave
-
Hello Steamer!
I'm not knocking anything but a .040 wide groove seems excessive for the 1 inch bore. Trimble method says a .043 thick ring .022 wide. I'm just wondering if that's what's in the drawings. A .031 inch wide is a pretty standard grooving insert. If you skinny up the ring to .0295 with a .031 groove it might make things a bit easier. With the .043 thickness it should have plenty of wall pressure. Might save you from having to grind a crazy small tool without sacrificing a good ring seal. I honed the pacifier to .750 and put .027's in it and it didn't even smoke after a few minutes of running.
Just trying to help!
-
Hey Steve Westbury wants 0.060 x 0.060. X2 8)
-
Wow.
Nikcole makes inserts that are .027, .032, .035, .043, .051 if that will help. I try to work around these sizes. I can send you the dimensions so you can make a holder. I have made a few for the sherline's.
No pressure.
-
Wow.
Nikcole makes inserts that are .027, .032, .035, .043, .051 if that will help. I try to work around these sizes. I can send you the dimensions so you can make a holder. I have made a few for the sherline's.
No pressure.
Sounds like a plan to me! You think 0.032 wide will work well x2. ?
-
Insert Grooving tool being made. The body is nearly done, just needs the hole drilled and tapped.
Thanks to Steve Huck for the reference!
Dave
-
Old engine designs, full and model scale, used very wide rings. Most production model engines (RC) have 1mm rings, up to 27mm bore or so. Then, only 1.1-1.2mm.
Steve, do you cut the pocket at the compund 1° angle to the holder? I've given up on Nikcole as the pockets are week. Maybe in a hardened material they would hold up. Also their threading inserts have much too large a radius for small threads.
-
I think I know why the ring sizes are that way and for that reason I wrote a bit about reducing friction to gain power and reliability. In the end I had to Google a bit and almost the first hit was this one :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXhjytn860w
Though it does not explain why as such, it shows that no one has really used (that kind we have access to) cast iron for decades. These more modern materials allows slimmer rings, reduces friction and allows higher rpm's.
Argh - I just posted and discovered that I can't see my own post with video on IE11 :killcomputer: - it works on Chrome.
-
Old engine designs, full and model scale, used very wide rings. Most production model engines (RC) have 1mm rings, up to 27mm bore or so. Then, only 1.1-1.2mm.
Steve, do you cut the pocket at the compund 1° angle to the holder? I've given up on Nikcole as the pockets are week. Maybe in a hardened material they would hold up. Also their threading inserts have much too large a radius for small threads.
Nope, 90 degrees to the part
I have never had any trouble with the inserts. They seem to last me a long time. I mostly cut brass, aluminum, and 12L14 and 1144 steel. They work great for ring grooves. The .019 wide inserts don't like interupted cuts but not many carbide tools do. Most are C2 grade carbide so not the best for steel but i stick to leaded steel and they work great. Other steel I think you can find C5 grade nikcole inserts.
-
I did a bit of research on rings today....ill share in a bit
Steve is on the right track.
Dave
-
I think I know why the ring sizes are that way and for that reason I wrote a bit about reducing friction to gain power and reliability. In the end I had to Google a bit and almost the first hit was this one :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXhjytn860w
Though it does not explain why as such, it shows that no one has really used (that kind we have access to) cast iron for decades. These more modern materials allows slimmer rings, reduces friction and allows higher rpm's.
Argh - I just posted and discovered that I can't see my own post with video on IE11 :killcomputer: - it works on Chrome.
Piston ring geometry
Piston ring geometry has been a subject of much print and consternation....I'm not going to dig a new trench here....there are miles and miles of them, but I did get a glimpse of the crux of the previous conversation on this thread. The subject of thickness of the ring.
OK so what I did was model up 2 piston ring, and subjected them to evenly distributed external pressure, and checked the results, and what I found, at least to this engineer, makes a bit of sense
I modeled a 0.040" thick ring and a 0.027" thick ring leaving the rest of the ring geometry identical.
I found that the ring deflection didn't change at all for both rings. I also found the the maximum stress didn't change either. So whats that telling us?
Well when the ring changes in thickness, the area of contact changes directly with the change in thickness. Halve the thickness of the ring, you get half the area in contact with the cylinder wall
the piston wall pressure will not change as that is a function of the width of the ring. HOWEVER...as there is more area on the thicker ring, the over all normal force to compress the ring is also higher proportionally with the thicker ring than the thinner ring. The friction force generated by the ring also increases with the thickness of the ring, Friction is a REALLY bad thing in miniature engines!!!!
So that said, going as thin as you can safely make, and count on making some extras to cover breakage and wear is the way to go.
For this engine, I'm going to split the difference and go 0.031" thick x 0.040" wide.
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
I understand and agree with your ideas of keeping the rings as thin as possible to reduce contact friction. Do you think it would produce the same results if you were to machine a step on a wide in order ring to reduce the contact area? Just thinking.
Did your research indicate a better or alternative material to cast iron? Many of my racing bike engines seem to have thin, hard chromed, steel rings. They are strong and very flexible, unlike cast iron. Do you think we could get away with steel rings, without the Chrome? Has anyone tried it?
Mike :thinking: :thinking:
-
Hi Dave,
I understand and agree with your ideas of keeping the rings as thin as possible to reduce contact friction. Do you think it would produce the same results if you were to machine a step on a wide in order ring to reduce the contact area? Just thinking.
Did your research indicate a better or alternative material to cast iron? Many of my racing bike engines seem to have thin, hard chromed, steel rings. They are strong and very flexible, unlike cast iron. Do you think we could get away with steel rings, without the Chrome? Has anyone tried it?
Mike :thinking: :thinking:
To answer the first question NO. the friction force would be the same as the full width ring. The wall pressure is a function of the width of the ring. My analysis was centered around square or rectangular rings, but I think my comment applies.
Materials:
The video in the post before mine talked about various ring materials. One of them that I think might be worth looking into as a model engine ring material is Ductile Iron. The hardened steel rings I think are beyond the scope of ME builders I think I imagine the heat treat on those is tricky to say the least.
-
Insert groove cutter holder machined. Inserts will be here tomorrow.
I don't like the piston fixture yet...probably make another one tomorrow night.....
Progress
-
Hi,
the cast iron rings, slotted are held closed with a thin brass thread on a mandrel which has a screwed washer in front of it to tighten one or more rings and keep them closed; the exact outer diameter required is then finished on the lathe as it is generally made;
But before this finishing cut, I give a very slight eccentricity on this mandrel (about 0.1 mm) on the side where the ring are cut to reduce the thickness at this place, what is expected to distribute the compression of the ring evenly over the entire perimeter. I saw this trick on piston rings of vintage engine (10cm3 Micron sparkie engines) and now I try to reproduce it on my own engines !
-
Still following along :wine1: That's a lot of interesting info on piston rings :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
-
Hi Dave,
I understand and agree with your ideas of keeping the rings as thin as possible to reduce contact friction. Do you think it would produce the same results if you were to machine a step on a wide in order ring to reduce the contact area? Just thinking.
To answer the first question NO. the friction force would be the same as the full width ring. The wall pressure is a function of the width of the ring.
Hi Dave,
You are quite correct. I had not taken into account the fact that the wall pressure is a sum of the ring's hoop force and the gas pressure behind the ring. Wider rings will produce more gas pressure force onto the cylinder wall.
Mike
-
Mike you are quite right regarding gas force increase with wider.rings, though without porting the pistons, its going to be hard to estimate.
-
Made some progress tonight finished the piston fixture and roughed out one piston and faced it to length. Also finished up my ring groove tool. Special Thanks to Stevehuck for the help there!
Dave
-
The grooving tool looks like it should work well Dave.
Bill
-
Dave,
The cutter looks great. How different are the inserts from the Arthur Warner HSS ones. would they Fit in the same holder? Maybe A question for Steve.
Art
-
They do work well, I use my Nikcole for all my ring grooves and as a parting tool for small work.
-
Dave,
The cutter looks great. How different are the inserts from the Arthur Warner HSS ones. would they Fit in the same holder? Maybe A question for Steve.
Art
Not sure Art Im usually old school grind my own tool kinda guy. These insert tools are a luxury to me.
Dave
-
Not sure. Couldn't find any information on the overall dimensions on the website.
-
Hi,
the cast iron rings, slotted are held closed with a thin brass thread on a mandrel which has a screwed washer in front of it to tighten one or more rings and keep them closed; the exact outer diameter required is then finished on the lathe as it is generally made;
But before this finishing cut, I give a very slight eccentricity on this mandrel (about 0.1 mm) on the side where the ring are cut to reduce the thickness at this place, what is expected to distribute the compression of the ring evenly over the entire perimeter. I saw this trick on piston rings of vintage engine (10cm3 Micron sparkie engines) and now I try to reproduce it on my own engines !
Hi Zephyrin,
Timoshenko in his "Strength of Materials" Vol 2.....not sure on the publish date, but probably 1930's , did a great dissertation on a true even pressure piston ring, and it is exactly like you describe. Eccentric. If I can steal a bit of time this weekend, I'll climb into my "Library" and dig it out.
Dave
-
I have that book!
I can’t access it until Thursday, but I can get it out then if still required.
Another classic engineering textbook.
MJM460
-
I have that book!
I can’t access it until Thursday, but I can get it out then if still required.
Another classic engineering textbook.
MJM460
I have a couple of different editions...my oldest one is the 30's and the latest is late 80's
Dave
-
New grooving tool works great! Ill finish off the pistons tomorrow. .031 wide grooves 0.045 deep 2 rings.
Dave
-
My copy of the book was purchased mid sixties. A bit of a worry that no one is able to improve on such a basic subject over such a long time. But also a tribute to the Author.
I have a Thermodynamics one, Rogers and Mayhew, that was also used world wide by many generations of engineers. By the time my son was studying, a metric text by another author was a welcome variation, but the original is still required for some topics.
MJM460
-
The pistons are done! Finishing off the block is next as there are quite a few details left to cut and there is material in the way in various locations that needs clearing out to do that ive printed out a conrod so i can fit check. We progress!
-
Nice work :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Mike
-
Thanks Mike time to fuel up! Then back at it.
Dave
-
Looking good :praise2:
-
Nice work Dave :ThumbsUp:
I'm guessing that the holder in the lathe in the first picture isn't aluminium or it might gall - steel ?
I have planed on using a similar approach when I get this far and I didn't think about just screwing the holder and the "bolt" (that holds the wristpin) together like this - in my head it had to be a "bolt" through the holder and nut on the back ... :-[
How easy is it to turn back out again and is the coarse looking thread an advantage here ?
Best wishes
Per
-
Getting on and off is very easy and it uses the wrist pin hole which is there already. Its a good way to go as you can machine it all in one setup.
-
Amazing how much progress one can make without a bum leg Dave. It's looking great too!!
Bill
-
Nice progress Dave!
Dave
-
Thanks for looking in guys. Per, yes the fixture is steel, and the bolt is 3/8-16 so it has a pitch of 0.0625" or 1.57mm. It sets up fine and comes right off by hand when needed no wrench required.
-
OK Clearanced the block to clear the con rod...I also clearanced the block to allow the piston full travel in the BDC position. There was some core shift but it only added material, so it was just a matter of setting it up and clearing it out. Now I'm making up a base plate fixture for the dip stick and breather...I'll finish that in the morning...Time to get some rest
Dave
-
Dave,
Good to see your progress, Id have thought they would have designed the clearance in. Good catch checking in advance. Though I don't have a 3D printer to check with a fabricated rod.
Art
-
The print is right Per, the casting is just a bit thick in places...no worries
Dave
-
Made a holding fixture and got some of the various small features on the block sorted out today including the dipstick/breather port and the coolant water entrance flange. Still to do is the rear cam bearing mounting studs which will also mount a camshaft driven water pump. and then the rear crank seal plate monting studs. But not tonight. Gonna give the leg a rest.
-
Great few days in the shop Dave. Wonderful to see the progress you are making.
Bill
-
Catching the bug not sure which one but feel like crap tonight so a little light lathe work on the engine. Dip stick and breather cap,
Hey Stevehuck! Got a good threading insert kit recommendation? I'm getting far too tired of grinding these damn single point threading tools!
Dave
-
Hey Stevehuck! Got a good threading insert kit recommendation? I'm getting far too tired of grinding these damn single point threading tools!
Dave
Nikcole has an insert that will fit in that fancy holder you just made. 55 and 60 degree available. GIE-7-GW-60 R
-
Hey Stevehuck! Got a good threading insert kit recommendation? I'm getting far too tired of grinding these damn single point threading tools!
Dave
Nikcole has an insert that will fit in that fancy holder you just made. 55 and 60 degree available. GIE-7-GW-60 R
I was hoping you would say that! On order tomorrow!
Thanks!
Dave
-
Feel better Dave. Don't make it worse by overdoing.
Bill
-
Feel better Dave. Don't make it worse by overdoing.
Bill
Thanks Bill Nyquil and night night!
-
Dave,
Take care of yourself. My wife picked up some bug, I seem to have caught the tame version of it. Your progress looks good. So does the dipstick itself thread into the case?
Art
-
Yes the print calls for 1/2-26 but im using 1/2-20
Dave
-
OK got the 1/2-20 thread cut....not without drama on the tap...see notes elsewhere.
The new Nikcole insert worked a treat single pointing the threaded cap. drill some holes and make a gasket and done and dusted....we'll see how much time I get this weekend.
Dave
-
Hi Dave
Just getting caught up on this project. All looks good from where I sit.
Had my cold just before Christmas. Slight fever and chills for about a day, then feeling like crap for a few days more; but it all passed quickly before the dreaded bronchitis set in. Take care of yourself.
-
It's coming along nicely Dave.
-Bob
-
I have a knee up on my mill today...so I just might as well use it....but ive been dreading this operation for some time.......
35 degree angle through the center main, the web and out the center of the throw...nothing but net....x2.....
:zap:
Wish me luck as I face my demons!
Dave
-
I hope you are going to start the cross drilling by using a center cutting end mill. It will not get pulled to the side as will happen if you try to start the drilling with a standard center drill.
Good luck
Mike
-
I hope you are going to start the cross drilling by using a center cutting end mill. It will not get pulled to the side as will happen if you try to start the drilling with a standard center drill.
Good luck
Mike
Abso-freakin-blutely! I'm gathering the tooling in one place....looking for a good 0.078" long series drill I'll start with a 3/32 end mill short series end mill.... :paranoia: :ShakeHead: :toilet_claw:
-
Just be careful when you break through the bottom. Thats when the drills tend to break.
Good news! I have finished a prototype 10-40 plug. All the tooling is done, all the fixtures are made, and all the Gcode is written. With any luck i'll have 50 in stock by the end of next week.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/Misc/20190113_125440_1.jpg~original)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8csFklGOck
-
Sounds good Steve! Got the hole in perfectly on the first side. Now to ser up the second side
-
Nice Job! How was it coming out the bottom? Was the bit a little grabby?
-
Nice Job! How was it coming out the bottom? Was the bit a little grabby?
I was worried about that too, but didn't grab in the least..just popped thru. Second one went in like the first. DONE.
Now for the key-way on the gear side.
Dave
-
Nicely done Dave. The keyway should be easy after that :)
Bill
-
Nicely done Dave. The keyway should be easy after that :)
Bill
Thanks for looking in everyone. Yup...keyway and 8 tapped holes for the counterweights....and done and dusted.
Wait a minute. The crank pins are hollow...I need to drill them out, and put in plugs...at least on the print I do.
Should be able to do both features with the same set up but with the margin block set to horizontal. It's already on center.
Dave
-
That should be interesting.....I think I'll make those plugs loctited in instead of press fit....my nerves are on edge already.
Dave
-
Key way cut #4-40 tapped holes next
-
Looks sweet Tatah Tot :ThumbsUp:. Just hold a steady course.
Cletus
-
The hollow big-ends do not make much sense to me on this kind of engine- a lot of extra work without much difference on the end result :shrug:
The rest looks very nicely done :ThumbsUp:
-
The hollow big-ends do not make much sense to me on this kind of engine- a lot of extra work without much difference on the end result :shrug:
The rest looks very nicely done :ThumbsUp:
Yeah im sitting here thinking the same thing im trying to understand their purpose though before dismissing them.
Dave
-
The hollow big ends may be for weight reduction and the balance weights are calculated on that basis :headscratch:
The end plugs as drawn appear to be at risk of blocking the oilway ::)
Glad to see more progress :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1:
-
:thinking: There does seem to be a problem with the balance weights being a bit lightweight. If you use steel instead of bronze the original article suggests making them thicker - 8mm instead of 6.35mm thick.
But if balance was a problem why did they originally have bronze connecting rods :noidea: Ali ones would save weight. I'll go and ask if I am allowed to see Surus's set to find out what his connecting rods are made of.
Edit: He is now feeling cheated as he has found he doesn't have any connecting rod castings in his set :facepalm:
Jo
-
Sounds like I need to do a bit of math and see what all the bother is about....that slug is 5.13 grams or so
-
Thats before you put the brass plugs in. Each plug is a gram each. So a 3 gram savings in weight.....im wondering if the intent was to provide for a temporary reservoir of oil for ths con rod.
-
I wondered the same but seeing as there is one intermittent feed by the center main bearing and two outlets it is unlikely there will be much oil left in the big end space after a run.
-
I wondered the same but seeing as there is one intermittent feed by the center main bearing and two outlets it is unlikely there will be much oil left in the big end space after a run.
Thats not how it works. The pump is engine driven and continuous. And feeds via an annular groove in the center bearing. My comment only applies if the pump fails to pump.
-
Ah :facepalm: I missed the groove in the centre main, I know that it is continuously pumped.
-
Alright Crankshaft is done! It was a fun challenge. On to the next part!!! Counter weights and connecting rods.
I'm going to noodle on the hollow crank pins. It's a simple engine.. Two single cylinder engines with individual counterweights. So the counterweights should be equal to all the rotating mass and half the reciprocating mass...so I'll noodle that out on CAD tomorrow and come up with some expected weights of these parts and see what adds up. For the record, the print calls for hollow crank pins, bronze counterweights, bronze of Aluminum rods and aluminum pistons. Now the rods really have me wondering...there will be a pretty big difference in weight between the two materials....but we'll let the math do the talking.
Dave
-
Looks good Dave! Nice finishes too. Not sure how big the rods are but betting there will be a significant difference in weight depending on material choice.
Bill
-
OK...so for some math. Here is Westbury's method for computing the counter weights with actual engine parts to hand.
http://www.modelenginenews.org/etw/etw_bal/p2.html
I'll be doing this more on paper as I want to size some of these parts, and compare different materials....but the process is really the same...stay tuned
Solidworks says...
aluminum rod 11.12 grams
Bronze rod 34.2 grams
:insane:
-
I’m kinda lost on this crank pin thing. I just can’t see how at this scale and range of rpm running, that hollowing the crank pins would affect balance that much. Now maybe at a several thousand rpm :shrug:
Cletus
-
I’m kinda lost on this crank pin thing. I just can’t see how at this scale and range of rpm running, that hollowing the crank pins would affect balance that much. Now maybe at a several thousand rpm :shrug:
Cletus
It has an effect. but it's small compared the difference in materials for the connecting rods. With the print counterweights, Bronze and weighing 31.4 grams each, I can run a bronze rod and a Aluminum piston. My numbers were within a gram of the existing design
The Aluminum rods only needs a 23.4 gram counter weights at the same swing radius. Now with this engine, I'm wondering if he thought over balance was a good thing
In both the above calculations, I excluded the hollow crank pin.
Now decisions! Do I go with the bronze rods? Go with the cast Z12 alloy rods that I got from Bez? or machine billet aluminum rods? Hmmmmmm
Dave
-
What kind of bearings are used in both ends of the conrods?
Bill
-
What kind of bearings are used in both ends of the conrods?
Bill
Aluminum is aluminum on both ends
Bronze is bronze on both ends
Etc.
-
Details of the rod
-
Ok, so made as part of the rods then as opposed to inserts ( like split bearings). In which care bronze should wear better. Just my opinion though.
Bill
-
Ok, so made as part of the rods then as opposed to inserts ( like split bearings). In which care bronze should wear better. Just my opinion though.
Bill
The Crank case is tight...so I'll probably keep the rods 1 piece. George runs aluminum rods on his engines....and ETW recommended Aluminum... what with the forced oil lube system, I suspect it will be fine. As I have ZA12 cast rods to hand. I think I'll give making those a shot. ZA12 is about 2/3 the weight of bronze, but with better material properties and excellent bearing properties. It's a Zinc Aluminum alloy.
Much to consider.....hmmmm
-
Dave have you noticed that the drawings also shows the option of Ali or Ci pistons. The use of Ali will also cut down on further reciprocating weight.
Jo
-
If you do use the aluminium option the old "dural" shown on the drawings would equate to 2014, use of other aluminium such as 6061 will not wear well and may well also stretch. It has a small copper content for wear
-
:headscratch: Where can you buy 6061 in under 50mm diameter round bars ?
Jo
-
Not many places in the UK as we tend to use 6062 but in the US they use 6061 which is a lot easier to get in our common sizes, Steamer is from the US so I used an example he would know.
First google result https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-round-bar
2014 for the rods should be available both sides of the pond in small rounds and sections if not 2024 in the US
-
Good morning all, and thank you for your interest.
Jason and Jo, Yes 6061-T6 is common here and is what I made the pistons out of.
Any size from 1/4" round on up is readily available here
Conrods....hmmmmm Still haven't made up my mind on them. 2014 is not readily available here, but 2024-T6 is...as is 7075-T6.
Dave
-
I see ETW says the crank holes are to aid balancing and that you can make the plugs from Ali
-
Thanks for pointing that out Jason, but the calculations I did last night tend to show that a bronze rod is the overwhelming driver. Like it didn't even matter. You need so much counter weight on the crank for the rods, that the crank pin lightening was minuscule. I'll take another look.
The next real effort is to get the internals complete, including the rods, wrist pins and rings...with the goal of having a rotating assembly by the NEMES show
http://www.neme-s.org/2019_NEMES_show-flyer.pdf.
Dave
-
I'm going to layout a aluminum rod with bronze shell bearings in the big end and a bronze bush in the small end. Once made and weighed I'll deal with the counterweight, which will be smaller than print size I believe.
7075-T6 for the rods. Strong and easy to machine.....NEVER going to break...
660 bronze for the bearing shells and bushings. Known entity.
I'll make the shells first. They'll drive the rest of it. 0.437 ID 0.500 OD of shell Flange OD of 0.562. Width 0.0437 over the flanges, and 0.375 Inside the flanges. Pinned to the rod to prevent rotation with a bronze pin. If I can make those shells...we're good to go. I think I can.
I'll make them the same way I made the main bearing shells ( shown below) I'll make up 4 full bushings and cut them all in half after I put the pins in.
I'll order the aluminum tonight I have plenty of bronze.
Dave
-
Should last a long time, won't rust, bust, or collect dust :) Go for it!!
Bill
-
Ordered...I'll lay out the rod in the meantime.
Dave
-
OK got the rod laid out at lunch time. I simplified it a bit, and added some material to allow for the bushings. I then took the file and made a 3D print to check clearances.
Some more of the crank case needs clearing, but just a little.
I should have some of my stock by tomorrow. Bearings first.
Dave
-
3D printed rod.
-
Dave,
I have to admit that is one of the handy things about a 3D printer.
Art
-
I hear ya there. I have extra material in the crank case that needs to be removed and its a great tool for design checks
Dave
-
Yeah...is William getting to print anything :lolb:
Bill
-
ALL THE TIME!
-
My wife woke me up at 3am to tell me she woke up! :hellno:
When that happens.....Im up....so
Spent a bit of time coming up with a nice simple fixture for the con rods....that carries the part from beginning to end on two machines....I think I nailed it, and it wont take 12 months to make! :cheers:
My metal came...paperwork said the aluminum was back ordered but the bronze would be here
In reality, the Aluminum came and the Bronze is back ordered.... :facepalm:
OK I make con rods today instead of bearings shells....We're supposed to get between 1 and 3 feet of snow today , tonight and tomorrow..(Im not kidding)..I can give you a better forecast on Tuesday when it's over. :slap:
Dave
-
Well since you were up at 3am, you should get a lot done today and with the snow just best to stay in right? Wondering how things are going weather wise over at Cabin Fever. Forecast is showing snow there as well this afternoon. So far no reports from attendees that I know of.
Bill
-
Well since you were up at 3am, you should get a lot done today and with the snow just best to stay in right? Wondering how things are going weather wise over at Cabin Fever. Forecast is showing snow there as well this afternoon. So far no reports from attendees that I know of.
Bill
That area is predicted to be snow this morning, followed by freezing rain and sleet. Joy.
Up here in western NY its starting to snow now, supposed to be just a foot and a half of snow. Staying in and playing in the shop!
-
Thanks for looking in everyone.
Conrod fixture is complete shy a washer
Dave
-
Squared up the stock for the rods...Next is parting and tapping for the bearing caps. But not today....Leg is tired, and I'm going out to dinner with family tonight...
Tomorrow!
Dave
-
Be careful buddy, with the snow and ice you don't need a repeat performance on the good leg.
Bill
-
Funny you say that. My wife got these cleats that strap on your shoes....look like I could go mountain climbing with them....I may do a lot of things tonight, but slipping on ice won't be one of them!
Dave
-
Ok take two, computer shut itself off & restarted but not the post window. :killcomputer: I left Cabin Fever around 5pm and there was large flakes of precipitation that melted on contact with anything. That's not to say it wont freeze as the evening goes on.
Art
-
The ice is worse than the snow. How was attendance today?
Bill
-
First connecting rod! Big end and little end machined and read for external machining in the fixture i made for it yesterday morning.
-
Looks good so far. Looking forward to seeing what comes out of that piece of aluminum.
Bill
-
Looks good so far. Looking forward to seeing what comes out of that piece of aluminum.
Bill
Next step, cut off everything that doesn't look like a connecting rod.....but I'm going to watch some football tonight 8)
Dave
-
My metal came...paperwork said the aluminum was back ordered but the bronze would be here
In reality, the Aluminum came and the Bronze is back ordered.... :facepalm:
Dave
They must be messing with you :Mad: :cussing:
Great progress despite the confusion. :popcorn:
-
Mmmmmmmm Bronze!...
-
Second operation on the connecting rod while in the fixture. I have 8 more operations on the rod to complete it, and all will be with the aid of this simple fixture. Set up work is worth the effort
I am sculpting the rod in this photo, putting the inside radii in with a boring head because it leaves a really nice finish. In the last photo I have the printed prototype sitting on top so you can see what I'm doing with the part.
Dave
-
Excellent :praise2: That plastic printed rod must be a very useful reality check :ThumbsUp:
-
Excellent :praise2: That plastic printed rod must be a very useful reality check :ThumbsUp:
It is! It's good to check for clearances on "As cast" parts , in this case the crank case.
and
It's instructive to those who might not have the experience to see the evolution of the part being machined...
Dave
-
Setting up to cut the radii realized I didnt have any T nuts to.fit the rotary table....tomorrow.
-
Connexting rods done.and dusted...bearings next
-
Well by dogies Uncle Jed, if’n they ain’t some pretty little fellers :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: 8)
Cletus
-
Fixture was a dream to use.....I'll hang on to that one!
Dave
-
Very nice! look great.
-
Very nice work on those Dave. Trickier than they look too I am sure.
Bill
-
Damn Dave you sure spit them out in good time. Looking good buddy!
:cheers:
Don
-
Nice, the Aciera looked like it was enjoying itself as well :)
Jo
-
Nice work on the rods Dave. Sometimes the simplest looking parts require the most work.
Still following along.
gbritnell
-
Nice work on the rods Dave. Sometimes the simplest looking parts require the most work.
Still following along.
gbritnell
Thanks George, that fixture wasnt too bad to make, but it was worth it...the shell bearings are going to be a challenge.
-
Nice, the Aciera looked like it was enjoying itself as well :)
Jo
Happy happy mill! Im really impressed with the Sherline RT....its worthy to be mounted on the Aciera.
-
Damn Dave you sure spit them out in good time. Looking good buddy!
:cheers:
Don
Lol dont look at the start date!! :lolb:...ah well im getting there. Thanks for looking in buddy.
-
It is a nice little RT I agree Dave. Did you acquire it just for the Aciera or did you have it before?
Bill
-
It is a nice little RT I agree Dave. Did you acquire it just for the Aciera or did you have it before?
Bill
I bought it from Rob Sussna. I tweeked what he had to fit my machine. It's great!
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
I have made shell bearings three ways. One is to turn the bearing I.D. and O.D. then cut it off. I then make up a mandrel that the bearing will slip onto. The mandrel has 2 diameters, one for the bearing and an enlarged area that I cut a flat on a couple of thousands higher than the bearing surface. Into the flat area I drill and tap a hole. I then make up a small clamp that holds the bearing in place. Using a thin (.005) slitting saw I just cut the bearing in half. This method leaves a small gap between the bearing halves but I have never had any trouble running the engine with the small gap. If you don't want the gap then you do the same procedure only you split the bearing so it's exactly 1/2 diameter. You then discard the small half. You have to make twice as many bearings because of the discard but it doesn't use up much material. I have also taken 2 pieces of rectangular stock and tinned and soft soldered them together, leaving on longer than the other so I can use the split surface for setup in the four jaw chuck. You drill and bore the I.D. first then the O.D. You then cut the bearing free from the stock. Now you heat it and unsolder the two halves. In practice it still leaves you a minute gap where the solder was. To keep the bearing from turning in the rod or main bearing I drill and press in a small brass pin then drill one half of the insert. This keeps the bearing from rotating.
gbritnell
-
Hey George,
I did your"make two pieces cut twice as many bushes as you need" approach for the main bearings, with a tubular pin to allow for oil feed. That worked really well.
I think I'll do the same for the big ends. I think what I'm going to do is turn up the OD features on some short pieces of stock, and then cut to dead center. I'll then cut two free, and make a clamp to hold them together and then bore them to size....at least that's what I'm thinking of right now. I might even use a rod as the clamping fixture to hold the two halves together for boring....I'm still noodling it a bit. The shell is pretty thin at about 0.031, which is why Im thinking of splitting it first, and then boring.
The little ends are just bronze bushes and are obviously simple.
Dave
-
Making some progress on the con rod big end bearings. I made 4 solid bushes. I'll be cutting them into 4 half shells
Then I'll be boring the plate to accept the half shells as a pair. From there, I'll face to width and then gently bore to size.
The reason I'm doing this is that the bores are 0.4375 and the con rod bores are 0.500. So the shells are only 0.031 thick.
Now...do I do it in the mill? or the lathe?....hmmmmmmm
Dave
-
Dave,
Those rods came out real good.
Art
-
Those are great looking rods, Dave! I'll be watching the process for thin-walled bearing shells carefully.
:ThumbsUp:
:popcorn: :popcorn:
Pete
-
Dave, do you have a collet which would fit the major OD (flanged part) of the bearings? I would probably do it on the lathe but a 5C collet fixture on the mill would work too.
Bill
-
Actually the fixture will be bored to the shell OD. Its essentiall a bearing cap assembly. But I suppose i could do it on the Logan with 5c
Dave
-
Actually I do have a 5c collet block...ill check that tonight
Dave
-
Interesting to see different ways of attaining the same result. Look'in good
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
-
Hey Dave buddy won’t it be easier to put the bearings into the Conrod’s then bore them to size...just saying!
Don
-
Hey Dave buddy won’t it be easier to put the bearings into the Conrod’s then bore them to size...just saying!
Don
I did mention that when I was talking to George....Hanging on to the conrod is a tough nut though...now that it's machined'
The fixture I made is missing just the hole. It's actually a split cap the two cap screws will come out and it opens up.
What that fixture does that nothing else does is I can measure width in place. Hard to do inside a 5C. hmmmmmm
Dave
-
Well after some thought....I'm going to go with the original fixture. I think it will give me what I want in a easy set up.
Step 1 Cut the "A" side flange to final width
Step 2 Split the blanks.
Step 3 Mount in fixture "B" side flange up, and face to final width and bore to final size
Dave
-
A good nights work!
The fixture works great! Next step I think I'll drill the blanks just big enough to get my boring bar in before I split them
But you cut the face, flip the part cut the face. done!....
Easy peasy!
I sequenced the photos in order of operations.
Dave
-
That worked out very well!! Looking forward to the next steps now.
Bill
-
Leg is screaming at me tonight brotha.....tomorrow...got to rough drill the blanks before I split them...otherise I'll be there for ever with the boring head.
I have two matched pairs of shells....throw #1 and throw#2...based on actual journal width..which varies 0.002"
Dave
-
That was pretty neat. Facing it off in the mill like that let you measure it directly while you're doing the work, which is pretty cool!
Yeah, do take care of your leg, Dave.
Kim
-
Nice, that jig would also work well to do that on the lathe.
Jo
-
Ill need to take the rake off the drills I use, staring with .250 and working up to 0.375.
Technically i guess its a Bell chuck or Bell fixture....im holding the work, not guiding the tool. I like it, the OD journals of the bearings are .001" oversize to make sure I have some grip on them in the fixture, though a few stokes of a file on the fixture bearing cap can tighten it up some more if need be. But I do need to take the rake off the drills when I drill them. Even then, its going to be a delicate job.
Dave
-
Well It was a good night. I just sharpened a 0.343 drill for brass and punched four holes....that was it! Very satisfying none the less
No need to step drill It went through no trouble. Now I need to cut the shells and I spent some time figuring on that operation.
I think I need something to support the shell against the mill vise pressure...so that will be a bit of aluminum with a 1/2" half round cut in it for the bearing to sit in. That way when I clamp it down I bear on the aluminum through the bearing shell flange. That way I'll be able to get a good grip on it while I gently mill half of it off.
Proof of some effort this evening....notice the "ribbony" chips from a drill ground like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
Dave
-
I'll believe you that there is a bearing under all that swarf :stir: :) :) :wine1:
-
It's interesting...The swarf from this kind of ground drill is very ribbony....the swarf on top of the fixture is JUST 1 bearing hole....it seems volumus!....but it's just that it's very "poofy"
I just didn't have the snot to get going last night....long day.
Tonight I hope....definitely tomorrow...
Dave
-
Well it ain't a race Dave. Do it when you feel like it and when its fun!! The weekend is near :
Bill
-
Want the rotating assmebly done for the NEMES show
-
Want the rotating assmebly done for the NEMES show
sounds like an ideal opportunity for a bit of round and round testing ;)
Jo
-
Want the rotating assmebly done for the NEMES show
sounds like an ideal opportunity for a bit of round and round testing ;)
Jo
Pistons going up and down gears going round and round....thats the goal
-
Dave,
Goals are good. That does look like a lot of swarf for one hole.
Art
-
Split fixture blocked out....need to cut a half round in it now.....tomorrow...
Dave
-
Ok serious progress today. #2 bearing is pretty tight, so ill need to scrape that one in a little, but the whole process went swimmingly!...ill fit that tight bearing tonight and i can do a rotating assembly check.
-
Looks great Dave!
Dave
-
Bearing is fit had a burr on the side...couple strokes of a file and done. Just a bit tight....thatll motor in just fine.
-
That’s cool Dave they look great!.... :ThumbsUp:
:cheers:
Don
-
Nice work on the bearing. And the rods look great on the crank shaft! :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
Kim
-
Well done Dave. They look great and sounds like the fit just as well.
Bill
-
Thanks for looking in boys....mounted up the crank, and there is some extra metal in the crankcase that needs to come out to let it all rotate....im going to countersink the screws as well. Tomorrow......
-
I think you should work tonight bud. This started back in 2012 though you are making much better progress now :lolb: Just kidding of course. It's looking great!!
Bill
-
Yes it did...there were a few years distraction!
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2810.0.html
Dave
-
Don't listen to him Dave. Just another retired guy with too much time on his hands :ROFL:
It's good that you are getting time back in the shop after that nasty accident last year. Each day you will be able to do a little more than the day before.
Cheers :cheers: :cheers:
Mike
-
Don't listen to him Dave. Just another retired guy with too much time on his hands :ROFL:
It's good that you are getting time back in the shop after that nasty accident last year. Each day you will be able to do a little more than the day before.
Cheers :cheers: :cheers:
Mike
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7789.msg164803.html#msg164803
Been exactly a year since the surgery to put it all back together!....
Im trying boss!!! Im trying! The bearings were a very satisfying job..the first one just slipped together perfectly!....The second, just a touch with a file and it was done. I'll do bearing shells like that next time for sure....it was really pretty easy...just required some careful work with the holding fixtures...but the F1 was up to it.
Dave
-
I was beginning to think we were going to have to have William finish this one 8) :lolb:. Looking good, just KOKO.
Cletus
-
I was beginning to think we were going to have to have William finish this one 8) :lolb:. Looking good, just KOKO.
Cletus
No worries brothah.....I'm glad I'm back at it.....but it's a year lost that's for sure!
Dave
-
Way to go steamer! You seem to be on a good roll now. Firing on all cylinders as they say. Haha!
-
Way to go steamer! You seem to be on a good roll now. Firing on all cylinders as they say. Haha!
Well 7 of them anyway!....
Thanks Steve.....good to be back in the shop!
Dave
-
If you look at the last picture, the core had some taper in it... I'll mill that wall down, but it's at an angle, so I'll need to trig that out and work out the offset and drop for the ball end mill to clean it out
the top side too, which is straight up and down, is a bit close, so I'll trim that too
I'm sure the sump pan is close, but I know it has some meat on it.
The 917 engine will be bar stock....just sayin
Dave
-
Slope side cleared out.. offsets like George does it. Are not that hard. If you think about it a minute 68 degree slope. Which amounts to a 2.5 rise to run so out .02 and then down 0.05. Cut repeat. Worked nice.
-
Nicely done!! Just got to keep your rises and runs unconfused. :)
Bill
-
Nicely done!! Just got to keep your rises and runs unconfused. :)
Bill
Its not that bad Bill. move the Y back 0.020, and raise the knee a full turn.....cut from X = 0 to X =0.687 and return
Repeat
You get into a rhythm, and it's not bad at all. Pick opportune dimensions....1 turn of the knee is 0.050 for instance...
Dave
-
Dave,
At least it aint .080 a turn like the mill at a previous job.
Art
-
Well with 0.08, you could go 0.032".
Dave
-
Now you're talking! Nice job Dave and like you say once you pick up a rythm it goes quite easily.
gbritnell
-
Now you're talking! Nice job Dave and like you say once you pick up a rythm it goes quite easily.
gbritnell
George, Ive been watching you for better part of 10 years...and that's how long it took for me to figure this one out :facepalm:
Ah well. I'll get there eventually....thanks for the inspiration my friend!
Dave
-
Looking good :praise2: The groove in the center main to feed the big ends is now clear to me :) :wine1:
-
Thanks for looking in rodger
I cleared the other side of the engine block last night. Pics to come.
Dave
-
Looks good Dave :ThumbsUp:
My conn rods will be next, once I get the cylinder sorted out in the Frisco. I'll be more than happy if they turn out like yours :cheers:
-
Thanks Craig, and thanks for looking in....good luck with that cylinder....And make sure you get what ever revised print set there is....just in case there's more problems...
Dave
-
Final weekend before the show..
Chamfer con rod bearing cap
counter bore the screw holes in conrods
cut a key way in the crank drive gear
make a nut to hole the gear on
......We should then have a "round and round" assembly.....
After that it's piston rings I think.
Dave
-
What else are you taking to the show? Not that you have to, just asking :)
Bill
-
What else are you taking to the show? Not that you have to, just asking :)
Bill
Well I have a Rudy's "not so little Workhorse" that's a 1.5X scale model of his design, that I usually hook up and let run for the day...
I'm going to leave my boat engine home....too damn heavy to carry up stairs this year.
My son is thinking about a model airplane exibit
My Daughter is thinking about some of her art....
I guess we'll see who brings what....I'm not holding my breath!
Dave
-
William should put on an RC driving seminar/exhibition. :stickpoke: Y’all have fun
Cletus
-
That's even better, should be a great family thing!!
Bill
-
Rods are modified, and I added the pin hole for the bearing retaining pin....I'll need to make that and install
Need wrist pins and pads, and I have the sump mounted in the mill. It needs the drain plug and the oil strainer hole machined. I've already cleared the extra material to clear the rods. There is some pattern distortion, but it's only cosmetic, and only when viewed from the bottom of the engine....so I'll not concern myself too much about it.
Lets just get it done.
Dave
-
OK I made wrist pins, wrist pin bushings, chamfered the con rod caps, and clearanced the inside of the sump....It goes up and down and round and round!
OK....The Sump casting
This casting has issues. It's not deep enough as compared to print, but the walls are very thick, so I had to clearance out a lot of aluminum. Additionally, the sump pick up as designed wont fit, it will get hit by the crank con rods, so I'll need to redesign the sump pick up screen accordingly I think that will be alright....I can work though that.
the back of the sump has a boo boo I made. It needs the material put on machine....In this case, I'm going to mill back the flange around the rear seal and splice in a new piece of aluminum to correct that part anyway.
I'm going to have to be very motivated to take on any more castings from anyone....I've just been annoyed left and right with threads that tear out, porosity, pattern issues. I'm going bar stock from here on in..on all of it.
In any case..I think I'll have something to twirl next Saturday anyway.....
Don't have any pics yet....give me a bit...
Dave
-
Looking forward to seeing the pics! :)
Sorry you're having such a time with your castings. Are they all this bad? Or just the set you got? A lot of people seem to love them, though I haven't caught the casting bug yet...
Hope you can work it all out for your Wallaby, Dave!
Kim
-
Well, the boo boo in the back of it is mine....is what it is, itll clean up once repaired.
The oil pick up boss is a 1/4" out of position...I moved it down as far as I could, and I'll adjust the shape of the new pick up screen accordingly..
Dave
-
I'm going to have to be very motivated to take on any more castings from anyone....I've just been annoyed left and right with threads that tear out, porosity, pattern issues. I'm going bar stock from here on in..on all of it.
Have I ever mentioned the need to fondle castings before starting work on them? Not just individually but as a collective to make sure you get the best out of them :).
I have Surus has a set of Wallaby castings in his collection I will have to see if I am allowed to fondle them to see if it is just a poor set you have Dave. Do you know where they came from?
Jo
-
As you maybe able to tell I am not allowed these castings yet ::)
These are close to spot on measurement Dave, yours seem to have a rougher sand finish and be thicker :noidea: I believe mine came from Hemmingway http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/The_Wallaby___Edgar_T_Westbury.html he would have originally got the patterns from someone else
Eric has got a couple of rather nice solid bronze ones that I have been trying to acquire off him (and a set for a bronze Mastiff :naughty: )
Jo
-
Surus, certainly doesn't let those casting get out of his sight does he :o
Bill
-
Surus, certainly doesn't let those casting get out of his sight does he :o
Bill
And looks like he has a great work area in his office there too!
-
Surus, certainly doesn't let those casting get out of his sight does he :o
Bill
You have no idea what it is like Bill :facepalm:
Jo
-
Your right Jo
Let this be a lesson to all Check your castings before you start to machine them.
Dave
-
Milled the offending boo boo off the back, and I'm waiting for aluminum bar stock to splice in a repair.
Nothing more tonight..
Dave
-
Mounted up the repair patch last night with a screw and some JB. It needs to be faced back now and it'll be good as new.
Onward. I still need a key, a keyway in the gear, and retaining nut, and some screws to put it all together.
I'll take up stud making after the show...
It'd be nice to have the block painted by Saturday...but I'm not feeling it...I'm thinking Smoke Gray...
Dave
-
Surus, certainly doesn't let those casting get out of his sight does he :o
Bill
You have no idea what it is like Bill :facepalm:
Jo
And his influence radiates over here to North Carolina too, so be careful Bill. I'ts
exasperating.
-
No show for me today... The whole family has the creeping crud or what ever you call this head cold.....hit me like a mile of bad road last night....and I don't really want to share the wealth.
I did get some stuff done last night...i'll post up in a few....
Dave
-
Sorry you and the family feel bad but hey, you will be there for the QCTP delivery at least. Feel better!
Bill
-
A bit of work on the Wallaby today. Rear shaft seal plate and the housing sorted. I'll finish the plate tomorrow.
-
Looks great my friend! Starting to come together.
-
Rods looks good together too
-
Very nice work, Dave! I'll bet that makes a sweet sound running.
:popcorn: :popcorn:
Pete
-
Starting to look like a real engine now :whoohoo:
Bill
-
Starting to look like a real engine now :whoohoo:
Bill
Man I hope so... I just want her to run...even once.
Dave
-
Looking good my brother, now when you get through with that project I want to see that pillar tool you been meaning to build.... :stickpoke:
:cheers:
Don
-
Looking good my brother, now when you get through with that project I want to see that pillar tool you been meaning to build.... :stickpoke:
:cheers:
Don
If I build equipment..itll be a tool and cutter grinder...but well see.
-
I went out to do some simple turning....make some handles for the Levin...couldnt' think straight...went back inside Cold is kicking my ((*#(*(*@*(@~!
-
Don't push it too hard, Dave. Take care of yourself!
Pete
-
Hate to hear you're under the weather Dave. Hard to get out to the shop when you're feeling bad. The work you're doing looks good though. Feel better soon !
-
Better safe than sorry. The handles can wait bud.
Bill