Well I’m glad you are starting another build. I didn’t want you just lounging by the pool and gardening all summer; a man needs a good excuse to go inside for a cool off and one tends not to spend their evening swilling Kentucky rot gut, if they have a build going, well that’s my excuse anyway :lolb: . But here’s my biggest concern: have you been eavesdropping on my PM’s? Just last week I started conversation with two of our members ( unnamed) in regards to my starting of the Cretors Lil’ Popcorn Engine from Myers Castings. I swear, I ain’t lying, you can ask Bill and Tug :lolb: :lolb: . However, I think this is wonderful that we’ll be building the almost same engine, but, you from bar and I from castings. This could be an award winning mini-series :Jester: . Have a great holiday (bet you have been around a lot of “real celebrations” ) in your younger years.
Cletus
you could always learn to cook.
Do you have access to the Model Engineering mag archive?
Issue 4424 has Stew's description of how he made his crosshead.
Zee--You might get away without using a thumpa thumpa thumpa ball nosed endmill, but that's what worked for me. I've made 3 of those popcorn engines and they turned out beautifully. That crosshead guide is the most eye-catching part of the build. ---Brian
I was expecting the 'V' on the way to be 90 degrees. But I'm measuring more like 87-ish degrees.
Zee, I really don’t think you have anything to worry about. Anyone who is operating a lathe in a conscientious manner will disengage the power feed just before it touches the indicator stem and will hand feed to their set point. I really couldn’t image even a half assed machinist power feeding alway to the stop or forgetting to disengage :shrug:. Guess I just pay way too much attention to what I’m doing.
If you have old silver solder, make sure it is cadmium free! Some of the older stuff had it, nasty for health.
Zee made a part? And only 66 replies in the thread? Amazing! :popcorn: :stir:
I'm setting here chuckling.--Sure makes your old heart go pitter-patter, doesn't it. You lived through it--Bet ya won't do that again.---Brian
You are okay, the boring bit is toast, how is the chuck?I'm setting here chuckling.--Sure makes your old heart go pitter-patter, doesn't it. You lived through it--Bet ya won't do that again.---Brian
Bet I will. :-[
You are okay, the boring bit is toast, how is the chuck?
You are okay, the boring bit is toast, how is the chuck?
Chuck jaws seem okay. They were the reverse jaws. (I've seldom used reverse jaws.)
Not as bad as picture may indicate.
Middle jaw took the brunt of it.
Not knowing much about this...it doesn't look like the area that got hit is used.
The flats above those areas is what a part would be held against.
Hmmmmm...we used firecrackers....airbtush practice is probably safer though :lolb:
Was working on a model and glued a part in before realizing another part needed to be glued in first. :facepalm:
Actually, before 34 parts needed to be glued in first. 34? Yes. All oars. :cussing:
That model is now destined for air-brushing practice. (And 50 years ago...BB gun practice.)
5th pic shows the reason for the underwear change. I had a mechanical stop but at some point, for some reason, I moved the compound and forget to reset the stop. Boring bar went in far enough for the chuck to catch it.
5th pic shows the reason for the underwear change. I had a mechanical stop but at some point, for some reason, I moved the compound and forget to reset the stop. Boring bar went in far enough for the chuck to catch it.
Though some of us won't admit it, we've all heard those crunching, screeching, loud BANG noises. Some of us :-X still have nightmares about them.
The spokes are 1/4" brass rod that will be annealed and bent. According to the plans, you take a datum off a bend, cut one end of the spoke to length, and thread it.
I'm not sure how to go about cutting and threading a bent piece of rod.
When I make the bending jig, I'm thinking of placing a mechanical stop for that end. I would thread the end first and then bend it. To prevent the threads from getting damaged I would put a nut on and clamp on that when bending.
Thoughts?
Zee--Please be very careful of what chemicals you mix together to do your pickling. Some chemicals, particularly acids, react violently with each other and explode.
Looks like pretty thick brass ti bend, especially in such a short spoke.
Only seeing one picture, nothing with jig...
That's where experience comes in. I was really afraid of melting the brass. (I did that once with aluminum.)
Those are short and thick pieces to bend, so it's easy to understand the difficulty.
First of all, if you have to wait on five o’clock and you’re retired, that’s a problem :naughty:.
But now, you can start fresh tomorrow and try again, right?! :)
Yes, 32nds, in general. When breaking through I will slow the feed to keep it from grabbing. Even in the middle, feeding too fast can make it grab and stall. On narrow and/or deep holes, need to back out if chips are nit clearing. If you hear or feel it binding, could be a chip jam near the tip, which can overheat and stall things.This is an interesting sub thread, Zee.
Pete, see if this helps...
http://handycrowd.com/drilling-brass-the-easy-and-safe-way/
Bill
Something not right there Zee the DRO should change almost straight away, slight delay possible going from one direction to the other is to be expected due to backlash.
Zee, I suspect you have some backlash in the quill and once the cutting starts it pulls the quill down by this amount. Shouldn't happen if the quill is locked so you may want to check that...maybe it isn't locking properly.
Out of interest if you lower the quill say 1/2" by the lever handle then tighten the central hub lock to engage the fine feed what happens to the fine feed knob is you then try to move the levers up and down? Does it move in and out from the front of the mill head? if so it needs adjusting.
Well at least you should be able to work to a better accuracy than +/- 1/8" now :LittleDevil:
Zee, here's a good example:Pete - great video, I did not realize the modification was so small.
[youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA[/youtube1]
I never, or rarely, 'step drill' anything or use pilot holes except in the most unusual situations.
Pete
Despite Jason's help :lolb: I got the flywheel done.
It runs true on the lathe. Will have to see how it goes once it's assembled in the model.
It's nice to have a success (or near success) once in a while. ;D
Well at least you should be able to work to a better accuracy than +/- 1/8" now :LittleDevil:
You hurt me. You hurt me bad.
Well today went relatively well...no doubt due to the loads of good advice I got.No doubt! :lolb:
1) Each time I drilled I could tell the brass was trying to pull the drill bit out of the tail stock. It helped if I fed a little faster but I didn't like doing that. That kind of tells me that the idea of having brass only bits may be a good idea.Or, that you were doing the right thing - feeding it in in a controlled way like this made it so the bit couldn't grab. Or, that when it tried to grab, it was held in place and not allowed to do the evil it wanted to. I'd call that a win!
2) At one point, with a larger drill bit, the system stalled. I was running about 300 RPM with a drill bit about 7/16 or slightly less. I think the speed was too low or my system can't provide the torque at that setting.Maybe. Or maybe you were feeding in too fast and trying to carve off more metal than you had power to actually do? Just a thought... I'm assuming you backed out and fed it in again, a little more slowly after that?
I had squared the stock on the mill then went to the lathe. One would think (or I had thought) that if the stock was perfectly square then a facing operation of 1 thou would take 1 thou off the entire face. Not so. It took about 5 or 6 thou before the entire thing was faced. It was slightly worse when I flipped the part and face the other end.Hmm... It does seem like something was out of square. If the part was squared up when you started, and the machine is square, then I would expect that you'd take a nice skim off the end, as you said.
I had squared the stock using a 3/4" end mill and was pleased to see the expected pattern of a trammed machine...in the X direction.
But I believe, the Y is off. By some significant amount given the size of the part is at most 1.375".
However, I'll be interested in anyone's thoughts on similar findings.
If you can't tell...I'm somewhat chuffed (as they say).As well you should be!
One thing that bothers me...When I look at the end where the reaming started...it looks pretty decent. But at the other end I see a little grooving as if the boring bar was wider there and the reamer did nothing.Or maybe, the reamer got full of chips toward the end of the bore and that's what caused those gouges?
Foo. Maybe not so chuffed. Makes me think the tail stock is not in line.I'd still be chuffed! It's good progress and WAY better than the first one, right?
I feel good and that's what matters.Yup, that's what matters!
One last observation...which bothers me a bit...
I had squared the stock on the mill then went to the lathe. One would think (or I had thought) that if the stock was perfectly square then a facing operation of 1 thou would take 1 thou off the entire face. Not so. It took about 5 or 6 thou before the entire thing was faced. It was slightly worse when I flipped the part and face the other end.
I had squared the stock using a 3/4" end mill and was pleased to see the expected pattern of a trammed machine...in the X direction.
But I believe, the Y is off. By some significant amount given the size of the part is at most 1.375".
However, I'll be interested in anyone's thoughts on similar findings.
...
1) Each time I drilled I could tell the brass was trying to pull the drill bit out of the tail stock. It helped if I fed a little faster but I didn't like doing that. That kind of tells me that the idea of having brass only bits may be a good idea.
...
...
1) Each time I drilled I could tell the brass was trying to pull the drill bit out of the tail stock. It helped if I fed a little faster but I didn't like doing that. That kind of tells me that the idea of having brass only bits may be a good idea.
...
Some idle thoughts on the matter of a set of brass drills...
Since they'll only be used on a soft metal, they don't have to be high quality steel.
Since their primary use will be bulk removal of material rather than precision hole sizing, they don't need to be highly accurate as to size.
Given the previous statement, you probably get away with not having letter or number size brass drills. Use the closest fractional; you're going to bore/ream after drilling anyway.
Since you're going to intentionally dull them, they don't need to be well sharpened.
Harbor Freight sells a 29 piece fractional drill set (#62281) for $18. It's actually decent. I have one in my house repair tool carrier and it's held up well. I wouldn't use them for precision work, I have high quality drills for that, but for household tasks they're fine.
So, my thinking is spend $18 for drills and maybe an hour or so putting a flat on the cutting edges and you're armed for most brass bulk removal tasks.
I haven't done this myself. Using the fine feed works well for me for controlling drill grab in brass.
Another option for bulk removal is "drilling" with an end mill. However, keeping an array of endmill sizes to match the fractional drills would get very expensive. I think the drills are a better solution.
1. Prototype
2. Refine prototype
3. Finished part
:lolb: :lolb:
That’s my sequence of operations
But there's an old Phillips' Rule that states, "If the 3rd attempt fails, consider another job.".
;D
I’m wondering if you just haven’t gotten the “feel” of your new machines yet.
If you have a real big concern about how square the bore is to either end, you can cheat a bit by making your piston about .003" undersize and use a Viton ring on it. This will tolerate a bit of misalignment.---Brian
Another thing a lot fail to realize, is, never bottom a reamer. Once that flat end hits the bottom of the hole, it wants to start doing a “hoola hoop” move and will most always ream oversize.
Just a thought: check with Otto, he seems to machine sans swarf :lolb:
Smoke and mirrors my friends, smoke and mirrors. :lolb:
Did I miss something Zee. Did Jo announce her retirement and I missed it??
The taper tap will remove the metal is several shallow depth cuts eg it takes about 6 turns until cutting fill depth, a plug will try to take it all of in one go so meeds more effort which with a small tap can break it.
Where to Use Thread Forming Tapshttps://www.mscdirect.com/basicsof/thread-forming-taps (https://www.mscdirect.com/basicsof/thread-forming-taps)
Materials particularly well suited for thread forming include aluminum, brass, copper, lead, stainless steel, carbon steel, cast steel, leaded steel and zinc. In general, any material which produces a stringy chip is a good candidate for cold forming threads. If the chips are powdery, the material may be too brittle. Forming taps generate threads without producing chips. The threads produced are much stronger than those created by cut taps because of the displacements of the grain of the metal in the workpiece. Cutting taps produce chips which may interfere with the tapping process.
Thread forming taps are also known as: Fluteless Taps, Roll Taps & Cold Forming Taps.
Major Advantages to Thread Forming
1. Chipless Tapping – no chip removal problems in blind holes
2. Stronger Threads – the grain flow of formed threads follows the contour of the thread in steel and stainless steel, resulting in greater thread strength
3. Better Thread Gaging – forming taps create their own lead therefore the possibility of producing oversized threads is greatly reduced
4. Stronger Taps – the absence for the need for flutes results in a stronger more solid tap
5. Longer Tap Life – forming taps last 3 to 20 times longer because they have no cutting edge to dull
6. More Efficient Production – longer tap life, less tap breakage and faster tapping speeds (up to 2x faster than cutting taps)
7. Ideal for Non-Lead Screw Tappers – The ability to form their own lead makes forming taps well suited for NC machines or other machines without lead screws
Guidelines For Using Thread Forming Taps
Pre-Tap Hole Size - Thread forming taps require a larger pre-tap hole size than a cutting tap. Tapping with too small of a pre-tap hole size results in excessivetap wear, torque and possible tap breakage
Lubrication - Forming Taps require good lubrication. Cutting oils are generallypreferred because of their lubricity compared to water soluble coolants
Styles - Standard, pipe and STI
Given the advantages, why wouldn't forming taps be the go to taps?
x and y are horizontal. z axis is vertical.
It actually doesn’t do much harm to leave them just “just lightly nipped up”; i.e. just when you feel contact without tightening.
Take 'em out, smack 'em with a hammer to squeeze the fork tighter on the blade enough that they'll stay where you put 'em.
Or take 'em apart, mill the slot a bit wider and reassemble with a wave washer.
My wife suggested a pair of $1 flip flops that the grand children must put on to enter. Sell it to them as safety, then move on to safety glasses.
Mosey (Still kicking) :old:
When I had my mill on an island table in the middle of the room, I put up some plexi sheets in a U around it to catch the flying chips, worked pretty well. It was held with wood blocks at the corners, and was not attached to the table so I could shift it to the side if needed for long parts.
The reject holders look like little people - turn them into figures for the kids?
Not easy parts to make Zee and they look ok to me. If you don't have one, $50 buys you a one inch belt sander at Harbor Freight, the perfect tool to blend rough edges and smooth contours. I'd be lost without mine.Absolutely - mine gets a lot of use, from knocking off rough edges to rounding ends to non-critical arcs.
What may be more helpful is one of those gizmos that take a file and moves it up and down.
As I recall, you can even drive it from a lathe or motorize it.
A few members talked about that some time ago and showed projects.
I think that's something I want to do.
pictures would help....
I assume you mean the kind of steady rest with bars holding the work from three sides, the rest attached to the bed rails of the lathe? Did you try some grease on them to help the digging-in? I've only used them on brass and steel, the rest did leave a rub mark on the part, can see how it might dig in more on aluminum. Any way you could make a bushing ring to glue onto the part, have the rest rub on that?
The tailstock doesn't have 4+ inches of travel so I drilled as far as I could...moved the tail stock (and bit) in...and continued to drill. It took about 3 times of moving the tail stock. Went pretty well but I don't know if that's the way a seasoned machinist would do it.
There is a fridge, but old. And a hot plate and microwave too. The hot plate will go, used it back then to vat dye parts. Doubt it will clean up. The microwave is ok I think.
Nice job Zee, you'll be "teach'in the class" before long !
Zee - where does one obtain these plans? I'd love to look them over more closely.
As a thought now you have thinned down both sides & exposed that internal corner, could you set it up & with the correct sized end mill take out the square corner?
That will bring me to cylinder #3.
Wish me luck.
A 3rd failure typically makes me question why I bother. ;D
That will bring me to cylinder #3.
Wish me luck.
A 3rd failure typically makes me question why I bother. ;D
But are you enjoying yourself ? Yep Just think how much experience you are getting, you couldn't have tackled something this difficult only a few years ago. True
And what would life be like if we didn't find ourselves new challenges to try to over come? Bored Its the journey that matters ;) Okay. Okay. I'll come out of my hole. It didn't hurt to have done that crosshead guide just before. :whoohoo:
A 3rd failure typically makes me question why I bother. ;D
The inlet port is supposed to be drilled parallel to the cylinder bore. From Stew's original metric drawings the cylinder end cover at radius 28mm is supposed to be larger than the rounded part of the cylinder, which is radius 24mm, and so will cover the port. On my model the edge of the cover is level with the flat base of the cylinder block. It would appear from your picture that your cylinder end cover is too small enough and if you made that part bigger it may save you making a new cylinder block.
:lolb: :lolb: :lolb:Oh, that ship has sailed... and sunk... :Lol:
I must be losing it.
:lolb: :lolb: :lolb:
...
You have just graduated from your self declared "rank amature" status :ThumbsUp:
I like to call it: “gracefully maturing” :cheers:
Eric
;D I see that you all are just as flummoxed.Yup!
How about: “Retired Programmer Turned Machinist” :facepalm:Is this with an emphasis on turned, pun intended. :atcomputer:
Maybe something very clear..."nonprofessional".
Or, for Marv, "abecedarian" (if this is considered a field of learning).
Maybe something very clear..."nonprofessional".
Or, for Marv, "abecedarian" (if this is considered a field of learning).
I remember a TV reality cop show where the cop is questioning a suspected DUI...
Do you know your alphabet?
Yes, officer, I know my letters; I just don't know them in order.
Yup, "abecedarian" sounds perfect for you.
The Germans use "amateur" much as English speakers do but, harking back to my incarceration among the Pennsylvania Dutch, I remember hearing "Stümper" used in that context. Of course, it was also used in the context of bumbler, fumbler, botcher and bungler. Hmm, maybe it's more applicable than I think.
How about: “Retired Programmer Turned Machinist” :facepalm:
Eric
Nice! You are getting a lot of learning in on this one, which is great. Fortunately that one groove can be filled with a little JB Weld or other goop, wont hurt a thing.
:popcorn: :popcorn:
We promise not to notice Zee ;)
What bands??
Also get those bands when threading the rod and not taking the diameter down not quite enough....
Your surface finishes look good. I have purchased machined parts from vendors that don't look as good as those. I think you're beating yourself up on the bands - if they will polish out that easily then no harm no fould - although I do understand your frustration from how it was caused. A good haul of machined parts though. Definite thumbs up.
Sure it’s not metric as your lathe I think is not old iron ,
Wonder how come you have to make two trips to get anything done :shrug:. Think about it
Had I made it that way, then I could have placed a flat on the cross head guide.
The idea is to counterbore the mouth of the cup so that the unthreaded part of the cap has a place to go. When this is done, the cap will thread on so that the gap between cap and cup disappears.The newer base I have for my Sherline mill has an oil cup on the table, that feeds oil down into the moving parts of the cross slides. They put a hole in the top of the cap, which I found the second time I opened it had allowed a LOT of small chips down into the cup, and into the oil tubes. Stupid design! I could see a small hole in the side as an air vent, but a dead center hole in the cap right where all the swarf lands?! :shrug:
In the future, remember that whenever you thread something up to a shoulder, you might want to do an undercut to eliminate the unfinished or imperfect thread immediately adjacent to the shoulder.
I guess I don't understand the logic of an oil cup cap with a hole in it. Isn't the cap meant to prevent dirt getting in the oil? I've never seen one with a hole in the cap.
How small was the drill called out in the plans? If you're going to build models, I'm afraid you will have to resign yourself to drilling tiny holes.
@Chris: A hole in the side seems to make more sense but for this oiler the hole would have to go through two sets of threads and line up.
@Chris: A hole in the side seems to make more sense but for this oiler the hole would have to go through two sets of threads and line up.
The hole goes through the side of the cap and intersects a blind hole in the threaded portion of the cap. The other end of this blind hole opens into the oil chamber.
1st is that I don't have the equipment to make tiny holes. So the holes for the oil is a bit large. Not a biggie. This engine isn't going to run for long periods of time.
Marv, I am the one with the sherline, also Bill, Zee has a larger mill and lathe.1st is that I don't have the equipment to make tiny holes. So the holes for the oil is a bit large. Not a biggie. This engine isn't going to run for long periods of time.
I remember you using a Sherline mill. Surely that has the speed and chuck to handle small drills?
Marv, I am the one with the sherline, also Bill, Zee has a larger mill and lathe.
The sherline chucks will go quite small.
Chris
Thought it was a minimill. Could be wrong.Marv, I am the one with the sherline, also Bill, Zee has a larger mill and lathe.
The sherline chucks will go quite small.
Chris
Yes, I know that Chris. But didn't the Zeester have a Sherline mill before he got the PM tools?
the Zeester
I had a mini-mill and a mini-lathe. No Sherline.
Now I have a larger lathe and mill.
For years I'd thought about Sherlines. I'm still not sure why I didn't go that route.
I had a mini-mill and a mini-lathe. No Sherline.Be glad your nickname isnt 'Kee'
Now I have a larger lathe and mill.
For years I'd thought about Sherlines. I'm still not sure why I didn't go that route.the Zeester
"the Zeester"? :lolb:
As for diameter, I usually look at the drill chart (I know, Marv does the formulas in his head, its easier for me to have it printed out) and look at the numbers in the columns for brass and steel, and compare that to the major diameter of the thread. Then I'll take the diameter down below the major diameter about the same amount as the drilling would take it above that dimension. That seems to work well for me, for most work. If the thread is going to be under a lot of load, I'll take less off.
Rule 47.4, rules are flexible... :Lol: well, at least some rulers are...As for diameter, I usually look at the drill chart (I know, Marv does the formulas in his head, its easier for me to have it printed out) and look at the numbers in the columns for brass and steel, and compare that to the major diameter of the thread. Then I'll take the diameter down below the major diameter about the same amount as the drilling would take it above that dimension. That seems to work well for me, for most work. If the thread is going to be under a lot of load, I'll take less off.
That's what I'm looking for. Sort of. I'd like a bit more 'rule' if I can get it. ;D
My reamers seem to be slightly undersized.
Thanks Marv. I do have a set. Rarely used.
How does one know when to use an undersized or oversized reamer?
I can see how an oversize might be used after a nominal (or undersized) but you'd have to start with an undersized.
I suspect part of the answer is more accurate (and expensive) measuring tools. ;D
Thanks Bill. Press fits hadn't occurred to me.
Yes Pete. I have a "decent" 1" micrometer. I got it many years ago for measuring electronic component leads.
Good to know that different materials can give different results. That may explain a few things I've noticed.
I'm not sure I understand a 10th under/over. +/-0.1 ? That seems awfully big.
(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/Smileys/default/cussing.gif) I can't believe it! I left out the crosshead guide! Argh.Did you really look for it? Sure the shop gnomes didn't run off with it since you wouldn't give them any of my recipe cookies?! :stickpoke:
Quote(http://www.modelenginemaker.com/Smileys/default/cussing.gif) I can't believe it! I left out the crosshead guide! Argh.Did you really look for it? Sure the shop gnomes didn't run off with it since you wouldn't give them any of my recipe cookies?! :stickpoke:
As for the flipper issue, that may be trickier. Hopefully it can be salvaged and go into the first try category, but time will tell.
As optimistic as I always try to be...there's the pessimist in me. And I do feel there's positives in having a touch of pessimism. ;D
Sometimes called my conscience.
The biggest issue with this arrangement is that some tools are shared between machines (e.g. drill bits, tap holders, etc.) and I'm constantly walking around. Not really a bad thing as it keeps me moving. The exercise helps and standing in one location for too long tends to hurt my knees.
The tables and benches are pretty easy to move around. The machines and lab benches are more difficult. Those lab benches are pretty heavy.Yeah that's why my machines are a permanent fixture right where they are. Both are about 1200 lbs each. I have rollers I bolt on to the lathe but I have to rent a 1500 lbs engine hoist for the mill, done that 3 times. I'm glad to hear I was mistaken thinking you tapped it freehand. :lolb: By the way it's great to have internet again. :whoohoo:
you want to make sure you have a handle on the tang of the file also.i watched a co worker have one catch and run the tang thru the palm of his hand and come out the top of his hand.he was lucky it missed everything going thru but took a real long time to heal.good idea working around machines to keep your tetanus shot up to date.cheap ins.
I'm getting a flu shot Monday. Already been a few cases reported locally. Sure seems early though.
What is wrong with the bolts, what needs cleaning up?
Which end of the bolt is the problem?
hi zee,you could also wrap a thin piece of shim stock around the threads and lightly clamp them in the 3 jaw and take light cuts to face off,then you can run the tap back over the threads. you will really like a collet chuck you will use it alot. good luck
hi zee,you could also wrap a thin piece of shim stock around the threads and lightly clamp them in the 3 jaw and take light cuts to face off,then you can run the tap back over the threads. you will really like a collet chuck you will use it alot. good luck
I use soda cans for this shim. Cuts easily with scissors.
Zee, I know the part is small, but it still looks large enough to use the edge finder even with the part centered in the vise jaws.
Couldn't you find the "x" edge even with the part totally inside the vise jaws? The finder is only .200" dia. Plus enough to offset. The part looks that large from the picture.
Zee, I wasn't trying to be critical at all, just trying to understand what happened and why. Believe me, I have done the same thing and learned the hard way.
I've got a set of 1/32" wide parallels. These come in handy for things like that. My only problem is that they fall down, so you have to find something to set between them to keep them upright. The springy corrugated snaky thing that Pete described works well for that. I make them out of old pop cans.
Zee,
I've got a set of 1/32" wide parallels. These come in handy for things like that. My only problem is that they fall down, so you have to find something to set between them to keep them upright. The springy corrugated snaky thing that Pete described works well for that. I make them out of old pop cans.
There's also those wavy parallels that might have worked for you. But a work piece has to be long enough to span a full wave or it won't stay up on those :)
Kim
I just thought I'd throw this in the mix. When you're machining something small on parallels packing peanuts work great as a spacer to hold the parallels apart.
Art
Neat idea, cheap and plentiful. But do they come in metric? :Lol:I just thought I'd throw this in the mix. When you're machining something small on parallels packing peanuts work great as a spacer to hold the parallels apart.
Art
:ThumbsUp: Good tip Art. I use them all the time. Cheap and easy to cut to the size needed.
Jim
Neat idea, cheap and plentiful. But do they come in metric? :Lol:I just thought I'd throw this in the mix. When you're machining something small on parallels packing peanuts work great as a spacer to hold the parallels apart.
Art
:ThumbsUp: Good tip Art. I use them all the time. Cheap and easy to cut to the size needed.
Jim
I used to use a steel rull packed up at each end beyond the vice for packing thin work but a set of wavey parallels do the job now and they don't fall over or need spacing. The squash down to about 0.015 - 0.020"I never knew the wavy ones would compress down. That would be great for thin bar.
(https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/44290/812735.jpg)
You guys are lucky. Hoard your supply of peanuts!! Most shippers I deal with have changed over to the Sealed Air packing.
Bill
You guys are lucky. Hoard your supply of peanuts!! Most shippers I deal with have changed over to the Sealed Air packing.Yeah, love those, they throw the item in the bottom of a box with one small air pillow thingy, just seems to make it bounce around the inside of the box more. At least its easy to clean out the box...
Bill
Zee--what's happening with your build. It seems to have went very quiet lately. Hope all is well there.---Brian
My start of this special lark is scheduled now for 1th of November 2020, so I hope to learn from all of you how to use (enjoy) it the best way.Start your list of fancy and favorite engines, vehicles, machines, stock up on material and castings, tools...
My start of this special lark is scheduled now for 1th of November 2020, so I hope to learn from all of you how to use (enjoy) it the best way.Start your list of fancy and favorite engines, vehicles, machines, stock up on material and castings, tools...
but we did make it from WI to Ames IA.
Having another drive in the system worries me with respect to viruses.
It seems one could get a virus and transport it to the backup drive and risk losing the backup.
So, how many people read this thread and promptly started a backup??
:atcomputer:
I have always just plugged my wife's iPad into a USB cable to the PC. Then just use file explorer to move the files. They look just like any external memory stick and you should see them all. Skip using any PC application that may have its own idea of what to move.
Weren't computers supposed to make out lives easier??
Weren't computers supposed to make out lives easier??
Don't get me started.
The computer isn't the problem. It's the designers who change things for the sake of change and not value.
But what use are all the ingredients if they are all locked out in the car?
Pretty much all hotels have free ice, I'm with Eric here. Get a high quality cooler and use ice; in the morning before you hit the road, drain the water, top off the ice and you are ready to go.
I do this with a small cooler when I travel but it is only for bottled water and beer. :D
... Lou and I like the RV’ing: food is cheaper and better, cocktails are cheaper and stronger...
Cletus
So, y’all want to live like the proverbial “Yuppie” , in plush hotel rooms with organic breakfast and such, but travel like old hippies “eating in” . Typical programmer :lolb: :lolb:.
it’s hot pepper pizza Friday :cheers: :DrinkPint: :cheers: :DrinkPint:
Room service and the mini bars are the shirt 8)
But I need to finish the popcorn engine.
Oh right! That's what this thread is supposed to be about!
I don't pay for room service ;D and we travel with our own bar. :ThumbsUp:
But I need to finish the popcorn engine.That too... ;)
Why have you quit working on this engine?
8 months retired now and I'm still trying to acclimate.
It's great waking up except for the thinking.
1st think, "There's nothing I 'have' to do."
2nd think, "So what should I do today?"
It's about here I get distracted.
I have just started month 4 of my retirement... I still think I need to go back to work for a rest :embarassed:
Great!Similar requests to 'I hear you have a truck...' :Lol:
Thanks you lot for depressing those of us that still have to get up & leave the house each day!
Done 50 hrs SO FAR this week.....another 10 tomorrow 😡😡😡 as well as being on call! Oh then it starts all over again on Monday, BUT not on call, with a bit of luck it will only be 40 hrs! 4 week holiday in Canada mid September to mid October is a distant memory.....
My Dad is coming year 32 in retirement, still plays in his shop every day, he’s just scaled down what he does, is more picky about what comes up his drive with the “ I hear you do machining jobs, I’ve tried a couple of engineering shops but.......”
He’s still trying to work out how he had time to go to work.
Cheers Kerrin
I wasn't really looking forward to retirement like many people do, but I got old anyways.
Damn it Zee---are you going to finish that popcorn engine or not?
I suspect he lost interest in the popcorn engine when he found out it doesn't spew out popcorn! :Lol:I wasn't really looking forward to retirement like many people do, but I got old anyways.
:lolb:Damn it Zee---are you going to finish that popcorn engine or not?
This is proof that people can read my mind.
Finally some hard evidence of what I've suspected for some time now.:lolb:
If you look closely at the pictures, that's one of Chris's gnomes, made up and dressed to look like an elf. :cussing:
I've been getting sabotaged, I tell you, and it's all at the direction of Chris. :cussing:
Deny it if you can Chris...but the photos say it all. :cussing:
In the words of one of my heroes, "Of course you know this means war." :cussing:
Be prepared Chris, I've been planning for this eventuality. :cussing:
You're lucky my own shop gnomes are temporarily distracted with T's holiday cookies. :cussing:
But come January...weather permitting... :hammerbash:
We'll get that pesky Wabbit
Seems we have veered away from popcorn. No wonder though. It's a Zee thread after all :ROFL:Wasn't it about a popcorn engine? :shrug:
Bill
.... I've gone three years now without making anything more than some tooling but I know I'll get back on the horse this year...