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Hints, Tips & Tricks / Re: I Have Decided to Hacksaw My Nuts Off
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 07:50:39 PM »
Jerry--that has to be the absolutely best thread title I have ever read. I've been chuckling about that all day.--Brian
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Vehicles & Models / Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Last post by crueby on Today at 06:32:03 PM »
All the blanks are drilled/cut/tapped, so on to boring the holes. Centered up the first one, drilled a starter hole and bored the center out to match the bottom of the slots in the eccentric (the eccentrics have a slot in the center of the bearing surface to keep the followers from sliding off to the side). Then bored one side out to match the top of the slots. So far so good.

Then turned the part around, and had to re-center the hole to do the cut on the other side, since it never tightens up quite the same. I think I will set up an expanding mandrel for the second side cuts, otherwise this will take quite a while. Did get the first one fit to the eccentric well though:

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Wow - those bands add a lot to the look! How did you attach them?
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Tooling & Machines / Re: Leadscrew
« Last post by Neil-Lickfold on Today at 06:18:08 PM »
Cut the lead screw first, and before cutting the lead screw, also make the blank for the tap at the same time. IE the final tap. You can measure the thread diameter with wires etc, unless you are buying acme 20tpi threading inserts  that are the full form. You can keep threading until you get to the measured OD.
Making series taps, so ones that are the same but just smaller on the over all dimensions help to get a really nice neat thread form as well.
After heat treatment the tap will be ever so slightly larger in diameter, and will make a really neat nut to lead screw. On the leadscrew, just deburr and put a small corner break on the outer edges of the thread form. But not on the tap. Leave the tap outer edges sharp.
Neil
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What Next?!

20190324_165016 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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Your Own Design / Re: Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal engine
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 04:33:54 PM »
And last but not least, the two sealed ball bearings at home in their counterbores. You will note that the non sideshaft side has a much larger clearance hole than the sideshaft side. That is because with the large clearance hole cut into the side of the chassis for one of the helical gears, I didn't want to take any more material away than I absolutely had to.

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Your Own Design / Re: Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal engine
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 04:27:14 PM »
So--Here we have me setting the boring bar (held in the headstock chuck) to the inside diameter of the "setting master" which is held in the tailstock chuck. Also a picture of the counterbore cut into the second side of the engine chassis. It worked out perfectly.

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Specific Engine Help / Re: ISO wall 4cyl drawings...
« Last post by DavidF on Today at 04:01:02 PM »
ok,  got my old log in back,  thanks Jo  :cheers:
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Specific Engine Help / Re: ISO wall 4cyl drawings...
« Last post by thehomefoundry on Today at 03:44:15 PM »
  Im not really new, I just could not remember what my old screen name was, either aonemarine or DavidF.  So i just made up a new one...  Ive been out of the hobby for a few years now due to work and buying an old farmhouse.  But now I have my dream shop (and chickens to boot).  Been in the final stages of the move (the little things that were packed away) and thats when i discovered the moldy boxes  :facepalm:
  Here is a link to the tales of my move and shop build...   http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/new-man-cave.239/
 
I thought i could just order up a new set, that when I found out coles went out of business a couple years ago...  uggg...  This would be the elmer wall 4cyl ic engine that im iso drawings for...
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Your Own Design / Re: Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal engine
« Last post by Brian Rupnow on Today at 03:33:51 PM »
I'm not really sure of what it is I'm doing, but that has never stopped me before. To put the counterbore in the other side of the engine chassis, I need some kind of "setting master" to set the boring tool to the diameter I require. I don't have any practical way to do that when the boring tool is in the part, so I will do it in the lathe. I have just turned a "setting master" from mild steel, one end of which is bored to the size required for the bearing and the other end turned to be about 0.010" smaller than the 7/16" hole which the boring tool must pass thru. It will become clearer as I post more pictures.---I hope!!
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