Model Engine Maker
Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: Jasonb on December 14, 2014, 07:30:55 PM
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Having done three IC engines on the trot I started to get a need for steam. I did have most of a mill engine drawn up but earlier this year was shown the drawings for a steam pump that was offered as a casting kit for a short time in the eighties by Fleet Model Services which caught my eye. The owner of the drawings would not part with their set of castings and they were also a bit on the small side for my liking so a cunning plan was hatched to do an all fabricated one at twice the size.
These pumps were made by a company named after the founder John Cameron whose works were in Manchester, England and came in a range of sizes from about 6ft tall to near 20ft. in single, twin and tandem cylinder configurations. They were used as boiler feed pumps and for other general pumping duties. I don't have any good photos of the particular engine that this one is said to be based on but it looks to be in the region of 8ft tall so my model at 16" high puts it at 1/6th scale.
This is a photo of one made from the kit that appeared in Model Engineer magazine when the castings were introduced
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3168_zps2d2c22e3.jpg)
I have redrawn most of the larger parts not just to get the revised sizes but also I find that drawing it out helps me think through how each piece can be fabricated. I will be using a wide mix of construction methods - welding, silver soldering, cutting from solid and screw& glue to name a few. It is quite a big model but there is no reason to stop anyone following along and making it to the original size which only had a 4" dia flywheel or anything between the two. These are a couple of screen shots of the general arrangement, I have not included some of the smaller parts as they will just be doubled up from the originals.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/caeron2_zps1e5b85fe.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/cameron1_zps96d5780a.jpg)
J
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That's an interesting pump Jason. Some features remind me of a three throw fire pump which is at Coldharbour Mill in Devon and can be seen in steam there.
I'll be following along.
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Enough of the intro, time to gather some materials and start making swarf.
Starting at the bottom the logical first part is the bed "casting" this is the pile of bits I hope to make it from.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3112_zps574c0b7b.jpg)
Having traded a piece of my 5mm steel plate with another forum member I found that what I had left was a bit short but by having the bar that forms the front and back extend right to the top I can gain an extra 1/2". First job was to square up the 5mm plate.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3113_zpsb6bed091.jpg)
To keep things looking like a casting the sides are angled at 2degrees to represent the draft angle, not easy to see here but the ends of the flat bar are machined to 2degrees and that piece of scaffold tube has been tapered to the same angle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3150_zps04c9476e.jpg)
My welding is not brilliant but as my life does not depend on it I'm happy to use it to join parts for models, here the 1/4" back and 3mm sides are being welded.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3152_zps384dce22.jpg)
The front corners and front plate were then added, everything was clamped to the 5mm plate which helped keep things square and flat. That piece of tube shown earlier was cut into quaters to form the larger radius needed at the front.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3153_zps236dedcf.jpg)
The welded sides before and after cleaning up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3155_zps211f8f70.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3156_zpsee268c79.jpg)
I then put some holes in the top plate to locate the column flanges, mounting bosses and pedestal base bosses
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3158_zpsd1b8f1a1.jpg)
The areas where the column flanges go were also recessed on the rotary table.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3171_zps32571f3c.jpg)
The top could now be welded to the sides and the joints tidied up a bit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3173_zps9aaf6bc5.jpg)
J
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OK, I'm on board. Actually the welds don't look half bad. Little tip if you want it, pay closer attention to the edges of the weld puddle and less towards the end of the rod. If you watch the edges of your puddle, you'll very quickly learn how to manipulate the rod to fill where you want it to without ever looking at the end of the rod. I like this fab stuff :ThumbsUp:
E
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Well I can say one thing about you Jason, is that you don't mess around. Great start and you know I am in for the ride. Oh Boy! Some fab work. :pinkelephant:
:popcorn:
Don
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That's a good start, Jason! I have a two-cylinder pump on my from-scratch todo list, so I'll be following along with interest!
Simon
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Nice start :praise2: I like fabricating as well :ThumbsUp: With a steel frame it's always easy to weld another bit on :)
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Hi Jason, I will following along too. I like this fabrication work.
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Next up was to machine some of the bits that fix to the base casting, starting with the water inlet, the 1.5" bar was reduced down to the pipe dia and bored.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG2907_zps77dd58c3.jpg)
Then reversed and faced off a bit over length and the radius to the back edge of the flange added.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG2908_zps6d7067a3.jpg)
While I was at it I did a few more of the flanges that use the same dia bar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG2913_zps83293072.jpg)
The base casting was then clamped to an angle plate and a recess machined to locate the inlet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3174_zps9eda2dd1.jpg)
The large flanges for the column to fix to were also added together with the ones for the A frame bearing support and the two around the hold down holes. These were then welded in place mostly from underneath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3175_zpscedba16c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3186_zpscdf7f308.jpg)
I then gave the top a quick skim to bring all the parts to one level
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3189_zps42c54aac.jpg)
Then the same to the underside. You can also see how the water gets from the inlet flange to the botton of the column in this shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3188_zps148a63d6.jpg)
The "casting" was then set true on the mill and the various holes drilled and tapped, mostly 2BA but a couple of 1/4BSF at the rear.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3190_zps78edc5cb.jpg)
Back onto the angle plates and the inlet flange was skimmed on its face and around the flange
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3191_zps76ce59a4.jpg)
With all the metal work now done a fillet of body filler was added to all the internal corners and rubbed down once hard.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3193_zps6a8818d4.jpg)
All that then remained was to apply a quick coat of primer to protect the work and also highlight any areas that may want a second fill.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3196_zps05cc5233.jpg)
Well thats the first part done and dusted, next on the list will be the columns.
J
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Very nice fabrication :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: Do you use a coolant/lubricant when milling steel?
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Very nice fabrication Jason. You know you did well when it looks just like a casting and that certainly does!!
Bill
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Roger most of the time I just apply a small amount of soluable oil with an artists brush when milling steel but depending on the job, type of steel and cutter may also do it dry.
The next part and probably the one with the most work in it is the pair of columns and pump cylinder which were all one casting. I had been deliberating as to how to best put this one together, my welding is not so good on internal corners and there would be a lot of that involved so I was not happy about being able to get a water tight joint and also the welds would have been hard to get at to grind down to a nice neat fillet. The size of some of the bits of steel would have made it hard for me to get them upto a suitable temperature for silver solder to flow. So the only method left was to bolster Ramon's pension fund by sticking it together with JB Weld with a few dozen cap head screws thrown in for good measure.
A few bits of metal were gathered together for the main parts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3198_zpsf234d8e9.jpg)
Starting with the round column this was faced to length and centered with the aid of the fixed steady then the 35mm bar (too big to fit inside the spindle) was reduced to 1.25" diameter along its length and a small 1/4" locating spigot turned on the top.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3203_zpsf6c7a3ac.jpg)
The lower half of the two columns are hollow and act as air chambers to even out the pump flow so the end had to be supported with the fixed steady while it was drilled 9/16" x 5" deep and a larger locating spigot added.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3213_zps54763ee8.jpg)
The 1.75" sq blank for the other column had to be milled to length and centred on the mill as the steady can not be used here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3214_zps69532109.jpg)
In much the same way as the round column, this one was also turned down to 1.25" and the spigot formed. This is one job that I use the more pointed indexable tool for as it gives good clearance around the live centre, note that I am also using the back of the tool post which allows less tool overhang if the QCTP is not to hit the centre.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3215_zps9b0698f2.jpg)
The other end was turned using tailstock support and then the fixed steady used on this round section while the hole was drilled then bored 17mm and part screw cut M18x1 for a depth of 4". The thread is to allow the valve seats to be screwed in from below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3216_zps5dccce9f.jpg)
I then completed the thread to its full form with taps which were just long enough!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3217_zpsfa1102d7.jpg)
Moving over to the mill the two holes for the valve access covers were bored and the 8 stud holes drilled and tapped 5BA.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3218_zps4608b919.jpg)
At the base of the round column there is a large round boss that has to be shaped to fit the column and also the outlet flange, these two cuts were done with the boring head.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3220_zps3247ef7e.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3232_zpsc406aa30.jpg)
And a quick mock up with some of the other flanges turned earlier
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3221_zps3e06f332.jpg)
The base was cut from some 8mm x 60mm hot rolled, milled to length and then bored for the 3 locating spigots, 8 mounting studs and 19 counter bored holes for the M3 socket screws that will help hold things together on their correct PCDs. I find the commercial counterbores have too large a clearance hole for the thread so have a couple of old drills ground to 170ish degrees which seem to do the job.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3222_zps3fbbd4af.jpg)
And how the columns fit the base which will have further shaping done at a later date.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3225_zps5cbe67fc.jpg)
J
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Great fab work Jason and I am surprised that you don't own a oxygen and propane or butane set. You could get a lot more heat from it to silver braze with. Still learning as you progress and I am thinking of tackling the Eastern and Anderson Grasshopper engine for my next project. I think I will be pushing my limit there.
Regards
Don
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Another nice fabrication Jason. This project is larger than I had thought originally too given that 1.75" square piece of steel.
Bill
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Nice work Jason,
I'm enjoying the progress.
Dave
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Great work Jason :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
I'll be following along with great interest.
Stew
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The fabrication may turn out better than a casting would. It's really looking nice.
Alan
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Thanks for all the kind comments
The next logical part to make was the top plate(s) for the columns, I decided to keep these as one piece for now as that would help keep the tops of the columns the same distance apart as the bottoms. Some 5/16" x 1.5" bright bar was milled to length, holes drilled for the location spigots left on the column tops and then some construction screw holes added (4 per column)
I also milled some shallow slots to locate the stiffening webs and screw holes to keep the webs in place. The last 4 holes are the ones for the cylinder base hold down studs.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3227_zps736f9d4b.jpg)
The column centres were found and the DRO's PCD function used to locate the M3 fixing holes
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3229_zps67f51141.jpg)
And a quick test fit of some of the screws, the heads will later be hidden with filler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3235_zpsc9dedc2e.jpg)
Next some similar sized slots were milled into the columns to locate the sides of the stiffening webs and also some wider ones for the bearing supports.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3237_zpse9fb9d00.jpg)
The webs and bearing supports were just milled and filed from 1/4" and 5/16" material respectively and then drilled/tapped as required. The two notches in the bearing supports are undersize and will be machined true once the whole thing has been JB Welded. Same goes for the flange faces, its a bit like leaving a machining allowance on a casting. It does not show too well on the photos but the upper 1/3rd of the columns a now have been slightly tapered.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3246_zps76fcf558.jpg)
The top flange of the pump chamber is a fairly straight forward milling and drilling job, 4 construction holes, 4 stud holes for the gland and a large bored hole for the ram.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3247_zps20b62ea6.jpg)
There is an angled passage that links the valve chamber to the pump chamber I started this angled cut on the column with a bull nosed milling cutter and then drilled a pilot hole 1/4" dia. This hole was then englarged with 3/8" slot drill then a 1/2" one. I had to mount the vice on packers so that the column did not hit the mill table.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3248_zps4c05a950.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3249_zps91d93a45.jpg)
With that hole out the way I could start shaping the valve chamber from the original square section to a "D" shape. To do this I set the column up on the rotary table with tailstock support, roughed it out and then made 180 passes of 1 degree each along its length climb cutting one way, traditional cut the other to save having to crank the table back each time. Quite pleased with the finish which is straight off the tool in the photo. I tried out a sample of a new range of cutters that one of the ME suppliers sent me to test, should be available soon, they are quite nice and so should the price be too :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3251_zps69fe5d92.jpg)
I don't think I took any photos of the pump chamber but is nothing special. Though once it was made I could get the correct radii and distance apart of the two curved surfaces that the diagonal passage has to fit between and use a boring head to cut them. The work is held between two scraps of aluminium so both curves can be cut at the same setting without worrying the cutter will hit the vice as the dia of the cuts are larger than the work piece.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3252_zpsa65ca782.jpg)
Add a few more webs and its almost there.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3253_zpsccb8b367.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3254_zps2c84651c.jpg)
Just the base plate to shape and add a recess for a cover plate that will allow access to the bottom of the pump chamber.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3255_zpse0a183e3.jpg)
With all the parts made I then went over them all with a flap wheel to soften the surfaces and particularly the external corners so that it will end up looking more like a casting than just a painted "barstock" assembly. It was then assembled with JB Weld and lots of M3 socket screws.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3256_zpsc767df33.jpg)
Once set the assembly could be treated like a casting and the faces mentioned earlier machined to finished size and some additional holes drilled and tapped. The DRO does come into its own here, those two flanges both have a 6 hole PCD pattern but it is rotated at 24.3 degrees which would of been a bit of a head ache to work out manually.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3271_zpsbee941cb.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3272_zps625bb929.jpg)
Final job was to fill all the internal corners with body filler and then blend everything in ready for paint. I'll cover the link pipe next time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3276_zps59916424.jpg)
J
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WOW, the Bavarians here say it with one word "respect".
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Wow, that looks amazing, Jason! You have this fabrication down to an art!
Simon
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Triple WOW.
Vince
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Amazing stuff Jason!! I look forward to each new update. I agree with Alan....better than a casting!
Bill
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Awesome Jason and you have me glued to till the next post. :ThumbsUp:
:popcornsmall:
Don
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Impressive piece of work Jason!
Dave
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Jason,
That is an impressive bit of work! Most insperational! Can I ask how long it took to figure out how you were going to attack the build, then how long it took to machine?
Cheers Kerrin
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What an incredible work have you done here! I'm looking forward to see this project finished, you got a very original and effective way to assemble "bar stock castings", congratulations!
Saludos
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Magnificent fabrication :praise2: :praise2: What, if anything, do you use to degrease the fabrication before you apply the body filler?
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Thanks again for all the comments.
Kerrin, I suppose the figuring out starts once I look at the drawings/photo/etching of a possible subject, once I decide it is doable then as I draw it up for myself I am always thinking how the part will be made - no point in drawing something you can't do. So by the time I have got my plans done I know fairly well how each piece will be tackled though some of the minor details are done as I go along or altered if I come across some extra images or detail of the originals.
As for how long, I looked at the dates on the photos, I took the one of the pile of metal for the columns 4 weeks before the finished one. So thats usually a couple of evenings a week and some time at the weekends though unlike Jo I'm not in the workshop dawn till dusk. I first cut metal on this model at the beginning of September and as of today have two small items left to make so about a 4month build But I have been getting another engine to run and working on another during that time too ;)
Roger, I usually wipe down with fibreglass brush cleaner which is basically a reclaimed acetone. You should be able to get it from any fibreglass suppliers
J
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So thats usually a couple of evenings a week and some time at the weekends though unlike Jo I'm not in the workshop dawn till dusk.
Even I have to work for a living :shrug:. So only when I am on my holidays do I get the possibilities of longer workshop hours, when I am not maintaining my half an acre of grounds or doing the never ending domestic duties :Doh:
I know of the location of a set of castings for one of these :naughty:
Jo
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Thank you Jason, I will have to see what I can get here, the Swiss can be a bit funny about chemicals. The base of my horizontal engine will need some filler ::)
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Hi Jason,
Thanks for the reply. That's still a lot of work in a relatively short time! Can't wait for the next episode.
Jo, when you finish your traction engine, you can spend a happy couple of hours driving round you section flattening the ever growing grass! At our last house I use to love getting out on a very sunny day & mowing the lawn, we had kikuyu (?) a south African grass, you could hear it scream in protest, but a week latter it needed mowing again! Best solution roundup!! :lolb:
Cheers Kerrin
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Thank you Jason, I will have to see what I can get here, the Swiss can be a bit funny about chemicals. The base of my horizontal engine will need some filler ::)
Hi Roger, try to google for "Balistol, Robla Kaltentfetter, fluid 50 ml or 500 ml or Spray 200 ml", should be available also in Swiss.
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Or borrow your other halfs nail varnish remover which is quite often acetone (so I'm told)
Plenty on your e-bay
http://www.ebay.ch/sch/i.html?_odkw=acetone&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xaceton&_nkw=aceton&_sacat=0
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The two flanges on the columns are joined by a "link pipe" which happened to scale out quite nicely to UK 15mm OD plumbing copper pipe. Its not easy to bend this to a very tight radius as its quite a thin wall so I tend to buy a full crossover (http://www.screwfix.com/p/end-feed-full-crossovers-22mm/38506) plumbing fitting and cut the two ends off. Add two turned steel flanges, a bit of pipe and two internal sleeves to keep the pipe/bend joint inline and solder.
When machining the flanges on the columns I made a note of the centre co-ordinates and calculated the exact distance between the two, it was then a simple matter to drill a couple of holes on each PCD at the right spacing in some angleiron to make a jig to hold the parts while soldering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3274_zps26fd75fe.jpg)
And here it is in place after a clean up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3276_zps59916424.jpg)
To keep the valve balls in place requires a cover to the access holes, a couple of bits of cast iron were sawn off and machined to overall size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3282_zps42986a38.jpg)
The 4 mounting holes were drilled and the centre spotted so it could be clocked in the 4-jaw. Then a spigot was turned to a good fit in the hole and then holding by that a recess was cut into the outer face with a rounded tool to keep the cast look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3284_zps49082ec3.jpg)
I'll make the studs at the end of the job. There is a small length of 1/8" brass fitted to the middle of teh spigot that limits the amount that the ball can lift off its seat
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3286_zps052498bd.jpg)
The valve seats screw in from below so a piece of brass was turned down to 18mm and a 1mm pitch thread cut. As it would have been hard to test fit the thread in the completed columns before chucking the brass I turned and tapped a test gauge which is what you can see perched on top
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3510_zpsbd993bfc.jpg)
Next a 1/2" hole was bored to get a good round hole and then the seat cut back at a 30degree angle before parting off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3512_zpsa2d39cf3.jpg)
A screwdriver slot was added to teh other end and thats the pair done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3523_zps7537698e.jpg)
J
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Nice!
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Jason I believe that's your best fabrication yet. Still glued to my chair here. I like................ :praise2:
:popcorn:
Don
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Very nice Jason...very nice indeed!!!
Bill
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Jason -
That is some incredible fabrication work.
-Bob
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So far I have welded and stuck parts together so it must be time to silver solder :)
The bottom of the "A" frame which supports one end of the crankshaft started out as a length of 1" x 3/8" hot rolled which was cleaned up to the required 7/8" x 5/16" and a recess machined in the bottom face. This was why I chose hot rolled as it is less likely to bend if an unbalanced cut is made.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3287_zpscbb8165d.jpg)
The top face was then counterbored for some bosses around the mounting holes and some 1/8" wide x 1/16" deep slots cut to locate the two side flanges and a central web.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3289_zpsee7b8df3.jpg)
I've had some 1" x 1" brass tee section hanging about for years so thought that would be suitable to make the legs with. These were faced off at the required angle and the leg of the tee reduced in length part way, here they are stood in the slots.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3290_zps92332555.jpg)
It does not show too well in the photo but this bit of 1/2" steel also had the ends machined to the correct angle and then a slot cut with an 1/8" saw for the wide part of the tee section leg to locate into.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3292_zps6a998612.jpg)
I then milled away some of the waste either side and put a hole in where the bearing brass will go to reduce the mass so it was easier to get upto soldering temps without overheating the brass and risking it melting or distorting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3293_zps5846350f.jpg)
A strip of 1/8" steel was shaped up for the bottom web using a 5/8" cutter to get the internal radius required.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3299_zps1838bb23.jpg)
Finally a couple of screws were added to help hold things together while soldering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3301_zps55f7ebcb.jpg)
After a quick clean up the "casting" was then packed up at an angle on the mill table and the sides tapered along with the shaped parts either side of the main housing which also got rid of the assembly screw heads/ends.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3303_zpsa7bd6c5f.jpg)
When both sides had been done it was set horizontal and the pocket for the bearing milled out, I also added a couple of small holes in the corners to make it easier to file them out square.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3304_zps527ea10e.jpg)
Following a good cleanup, easing external corners and adding fillets to the internal corners it looks like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3506_zps0b4b496c.jpg)
To stop the bearings dropping out the bottom requires a keep plate. The original smaller drawings just show a flat bit of bar but looking at photos of pumps in preservation they have a stiffening web on them. So a piece of bar was duly drilled and slotted and some bits shaped to fit in these holes and slots.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3378_zpsee249885.jpg)
And after soldering etc they look a bit more like cast items
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3380_zps6084956b.jpg)
J
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I hope you take this the right way, but, that so good it's just stupid. I mean just stinking brilliant
E
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Have to agree with Big E Jason...more superlative fabrication work!!
Bill
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8)
Simon
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Hi Jason, I am quietly following along and try to learn. A brilliant fabrication work.
-
Brilliant approach to a well though out solution Jason. Thanks for the training lessons.
8)
Don
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Magnificent looking 'castings' :praise2: :praise2: Still following along and learning :cheers:
-
The other end of the crankshaft is supported by a bracket that spans between the two columns. A piece of 1/2" x 2" steel was cut then milled to length, the two mounting holes drilled and the bottom of the bearing pocket stitch drilled prior to hacksawing out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3309_zps9e443409.jpg)
Once the waste was sawn out it was mounted upsidedown in the vice and the bearing housing brought to size, the two holes for the beraing keeps drilled and a little milled away either side to get the required shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3311_zpsa0abbcc3.jpg)
A flycuttter with a rounded edge to the HSS tool was used to thin down the ends on both sides which gave a nice radius fillet where the two different thicknesses meet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3312_zpsf184cdee.jpg)
The top edge was then cut to slope down to the ends which were made a good firm fit in the brackets on the columns. I then started to mill out the triangular central section to thin it down to form a web, right angled cuts first.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3314_zps027638e2.jpg)
I then rotated the vice and did the sloping edge and removed any waste between the outside cuts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3316_zpsdbb36d70.jpg)
Looks like I don't have a picture of the completed part but here it is being test fitted, just needs the arrises knocking off and the internal corners filleted with Milliput.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3319_zpsd3211a2f.jpg)
EDIT found a picture
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3621_zps4vy0djqc.jpg)
4 bits of bronze were sawn off to form the bearings from
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3388_zps0e17ec19.jpg)
These were then machined over size with a flycutter
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3389_zps7ec54048.jpg)
After soft soldering together the were brought to finished size, again with a flycutter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3390_zpsc1f5e358.jpg)
The centre of the hole was marked out and set to run true in the 4-jaw chuck before drilling and finally boring to a nice fit on the 1/2" crankshaft material.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3394_zpse8269eb9.jpg)
Taking a sharp 2 flute milling cutter the location slots were milled on the two opposite sides to fit the 1/2" bearing housings
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3395_zps93ff1794.jpg)
Finally an oil hole was added, the corners rounded with a file and a quick rub on some fine emery to clean them up. I'll not split them until final assembly as it makes it easier to leave them as one while test fitting the engine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3396_zps4af4b0e9.jpg)
J
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Still following along and learning ::) Did you chose to use a flycutter to size/square up the bronze blocks for a particular reason over an endmill?
-
Roger, I use a flu cutter quite a bit because
1. Quicker, I can cut upto 2" wide in one pass rather than several passes of a milling cutter
2. Sharrper, because its so easy to grind a new edge yoy tend to keep the flycutter sharp rather than persavere with a milling cutter than has started to loose its edge
3. Cheaper, a HSS tool bit costs very little and can be sharpened hundreds of times unlike milling cutters.
4. Finish, generally gives a better surface finish than teh rows of marks you get lkeft after using amilling cutter.
I do have a large MT3 flycutter but seldom use it prefering to use a cheap set of 3 that I bought when I started out that have a 1/2" shank which easily fits into the ER32 Chuck so again saves changing tooling.
J
J
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Thank you :ThumbsUp: I have a flycutter that I used to machine the base on my horizontal engine, but I hadn't thought of using it on anything smaller.
-
Somebody told me that inside each piece of rusty cast iron there is a part waiting to get out so I took the top off of this bit but could not see a steam engine cylinder inside but thought I would carry on anyway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3320_zps88b8c5a8.jpg)
After cleaning up all the surfaces a bit oversize I poped it in the 4-jaw and drilled then bored it out to the required 1.75"
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3322_zpsf8528c12.jpg)
Then back to the mill and using a nice sharp cutter with a small overlap and shallow depth of cut took the port face down to the required size, the pattern is just visual, I can't feel any steps on the surface so should have a good surface for the slide valve to run on though it will get a final rub on fine wet & dry.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3323_zps766ef49e.jpg)
The majority of the waste where the ports go was removed by drilling.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3324_zpsae2d8eb1.jpg)
Then milled out to final shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3325_zps33f84205.jpg)
Finally the stud holes for the steam chest were drilled and tapped. Following that the exhaust passage was drilled in to meet the central slot and the two tapped holes for the pipe flange done. One thing that these pumps all seem to feature is an exhaust connection on either side of the cylinder with the one not in use being fitted with a blanking plate, so both sides were treated the same.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3326_zpsd2c4f8c6.jpg)
A big bit of the waste was rough milled off the two corners, cylinder cover stud holes tapped and then the cylinder set at an angle to have six 1/8" holes drilled down to connect the inlet port to the cylinder end. I started the holes with a ball nosed cutter to save teh drill skidding about on the sloping surface.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3329_zpsc261553c.jpg)
I then milled across to join the holes as far as the milling cutter would reach.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3331_zps323aafd2.jpg)
Setting the cylinder to run true on the rotary table the top and bottom flange were rounded to shape at 2.75" dia
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3338_zps9a8ea81b.jpg)
The R/T was then set up in the vertical position with the tailstock bearing on a quickly knocked up plug in the cylinder end. Using a hand ground radius corner cutter the area between the flanges was cut away to form a space for cylinder lagging material. As this surface will never be seen I just cut at 4degree intervals (one turn of the handle) which did not give a bad finish. Also cut conventional one way and climb cut the other to save having to wind the handwheel quite so much.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3339_zps71aa70bb.jpg)
The vice was then mounted ontop of the rotary table and the two exhaust flanges milled to their profile.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3342_zpsbee898db.jpg)
Looks like it is true as I did find a steam engine cylinder in that block of iron and only one goof.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3348_zpsa819cca6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3346_zpsb0c3f1d1.jpg)
J
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Somebody told me that inside each piece of rusty cast iron there is a part waiting to get out
That's the special brown protective coating ;) also found on other well seasoned ferrous materials, especially the free ones :whoohoo:.
Jo
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Jason I like the way that turned out great piece of work as usual.
Don
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Nice bit of metal sculpting there Jason!
Enjoying your progress
Dave
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A lovely bit of work! :ThumbsUp:
Simon
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Showing everything in one sequence of photos makes it look too easy. Lot of nice work there. I know all those setups took a lot of time.
-
The cylinder is supported between the two columns by its end cover which has to have two integral feet to allow it to span between the columns.
Firstly a piece of steel was turned down to 2.75" with a spigot to locate in the cylinder bore and a 3/8" hole raemed for the piston rod.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3349_zpsddf6b23b.jpg)
Two blocks of steel were machined up a little oversize to form the feet and drilled & counterbored for cap head screws. The endcover was tapped to take the cap heads and the four larger cylinder mounting holes added at the same time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3350_zps2f64471e.jpg)
The inner faces of the blocks were then flycut to provide clearance on the underside for the piston rod stuffing gland. After this I also hacksawed away some of the waste so there was less bulk to heat up when it came to silver soldering.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3351_zps1c626442.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3353_zps7b196a67.jpg)
I then held the assembly in the soft jaws and skimmed & bored the gland. Then with tailstock support the bottom of the legs were machined back to finished size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3355_zps21b57d9d.jpg)
It was then just a case of flipping it around to do the tops of the legs and then drill the 4 hold down holes before a bit of fettling to make it look like a casting (sorry no pics)
The top cover was a simple turning job from a slice of cast iron bar, the area withing the spigot was hollowed out to give some clearance to the piston retaining nut.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3357_zpsde465039.jpg)
It was then held in the softjaws by the spigot to turn the top with a raised area to match the concave underside terminating in a flat boss that was drilled and tapped for the cylinder oiler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3358_zpsce2f6e01.jpg)
I did the cylinder oiler in the same way as the two for the main bearings so will cover them all here. Starting with some round rod the end was reduced in size and threaded then a brazed tip tool proved to have the perfect shape to put a nice neck on the oilers which was then blended into the round outer dia with a file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3359_zpsbcfc585e.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3516_zps4958a6e1.jpg)
Next over to the mill to form a hexagon on the bottom before parting off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3518_zps69b3ef29.jpg)
Face the end, drill out with a bull nose cutter and continue through with a 1/16" oil hole and finally add a 40tpi thread for the lid.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3519_zps9be38798.jpg)
The lids were threaded and then moved to the mill to have some notches milled into them using a bull nose cutter and the spin indexer before parting off. They were then screwed into a holder to face the top and drill a breather hole. I have built up a number of the se holders, they are just a bit of hex brass tapped one end and a threaded male spigot on the other, they are ideal for holding small threaded fittings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3521_zps87622f6e.jpg)
The finished oilers with lids.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3522_zps292e61bd.jpg)
J
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Impressive work as usual Jason. :praise2: :praise2:
How did you do that round raised part on the cylinder cover? Step turning and then filing?
Vince
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Vince most of it was done buy eye turning teh top and cross slide handwheels at the same time. As its partly recessed I could not use a file on all of it so used a hand held graver for the concave parts but teh convex bit was smoothed with a file.
J
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Yet more great fabrication :praise2: Following and enjoying :)
-
I decided to make the steam chest up from four pieces rather than cut a large hole in an even larger block of metal. So starting with four bits of scrap steel these were cleaned up leaving some metal to spare all round.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3367_zps5c9c7ddf.jpg)
After silver soldering together the two faces were machined back to give the correct thickness. You can just make out a nice line of solder right through the joints where I punch marked the mating surfaces to leave a small gap for the solder to flow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3368_zps548e5c20.jpg)
With the sides also cleaned up I then drilled and reamed the valve rod hole and counterbored for the stuffing gland, also drilled and tapped the 4BA stud holes to retain the gland.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3369_zpsc0761ae0.jpg)
Rather than shape the area around the gland and then have to shape the gland at another setting I first turned the bronze gland.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3371_zpscfcb3d48.jpg)
Then holding it in place with temporary cap head screws was able to do all the shaping in one go, first one side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3373_zps7ed78a62.jpg)
Then the other and the waste at the ends
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3374_zpsd7faad35.jpg)
Followed by rounding the ends, the vice was mounted on the rotary table to do all this work
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3375_zps304e4f65.jpg)
The sub-base casting that I did not use on my Galloway engine donated a piece of thin flat cast iron that was cleaned up, had a recess milled in the outer face and the mounting holes drilled and thats the valve chest cover done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3360_zps41945a1b.jpg)
Although not shown on the smaller scale drawings I had noticed on most photos and etchings of full size engines that there was a valve rod guide that shared the bottom cylinder cover fixings. So a few offcuts of steel were shaped up and silver soldered together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3381_zps73797ce1.jpg)
To ensure the hole in the guide lined up with the valve rod I located the valve chest under the mill, bolted the guide in place and then drilled and reamed the hole thus ensuring all was in line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3383_zps735247fc.jpg)
And the finished item just needs a bit of filler and primer to tidy it up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3384_zpse0328497.jpg)
J
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You still have me glued to this thread Jason. I just love seeing your fabrication work. Did I say nice work!
Don
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Excellent work and informative as always Jason.
Bill
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The slide valve started off as an odd shaped offcut of bronze, I used a piece of aluminiun rod between it and the moving vice jaw to take up any uneveness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3098_zpseab1e8fb.jpg)
A 12mm cutter soon had the top looking a bit better.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3099_zps9b9e842d.jpg)
I then used the same cutter at full depth to square up the sides.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3100_zpse1e8bf32.jpg)
As the block was a bit smaller than needed rather than being able to cut out a recess in the bottom I opted to use a separate piece to be soldered on so milled a hole right through.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3106_zps82c5475b.jpg)
To allow the steam or air free passage around the valve it is tapered on 4 sides, one angle for the top and bottom and another for the sides. I used a precision protractor to set the angles.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3107_zps03a42239.jpg)
Then used a small flycutter to take off the waste, repeated for the other 3 sides.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3108_zps5dd44638.jpg)
I then milled a flat bottomed slot for the "Nut" which is actually a bit of 3/16 x 3/8 brass and a bull nose cutter to produce the slot for the 3/16" valve rod.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3109_zps63ccbe10.jpg)
The smaller Fleet casting set had the eccentric strap and rod all as a single gun metal casting but looking at photos of old engines this was not right. So start by cutting a slice off some 50mm cast iron bar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3466_zps923ce1c6.jpg)
Skim both sides on the lathe to bring it down to 5/16" thick and blue one side. Then clamp to a 1-2-3 block and mark it out with the height gauge.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3467_zps34133fa5.jpg)
Then over to the mill to cut away some of the waste, cut the flats where the bolts go and drill their clearance holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3468_zps33b9160a.jpg)
After sawing in half and cleaning up the cut surfaces the strap can be bolted together and lightly held in the 4-jaw while the hole is drilled and then bored to size.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3469_zps333d4a79.jpg)
A bit of work with the rotary table and some files soon has it to finished profile and a slot milled for the flat rod to locate into.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3470_zps1a416cc8.jpg)
A piece of 1.125" bar was reduced down so the strap was a nice fit and then the offset of the eccentric marked on the end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3471_zpsd72d2ddd.jpg)
Changing to the 4-jaw the mark was set to run true and bored out to a nice snug fit on a piece of the crankshaft material, the boss was also machined with a rounded nose tool to give a nice fillet where the diameter meets the flat surface, I find these relatively cheap brazed carbide tools ideal for this and the angled ends make it easy to get in to tight spaces.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3477_zpsada88ce0.jpg)
A couple of tapped holes at 90degrees to lock it in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3478_zps7e042705.jpg)
Now I know Jo would never let me get away with using socket head grub screws to lock the eccentric to the shaft but they are quite practical to use and hold a lot better than square head screws so this is how I get over any grief. Use a long socket head screw so that there is some thread sticking out and then make up a couple of separate heads that can be slipped on once you have tested and set up the engine to run nicely. The thread is M3 and the "heads" are from 4mm square material.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3569_zpse49277ce.jpg)
To finish off here is a group shot of the various valve parts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3509_zpsbeef7d49.jpg)
Thats enough for tonight, next installment will be the banjo which is a bit of a marathon session.
J
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Still following and enjoying :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :wine1: Splendid stuff :praise2:
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Still with you Jason and some lovely work. :praise2:
:popcorn:
Don
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I'm pinching that square head on a long grub screw idea - neat!
Nice work too Jason.
Simon.
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I like that idea of the square heads. So, when the timing is finished, do you glue the heads on?
Vince
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Jason, that eccentric and strap turned out wonderful. The square head is a clever idea also!
Bill
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I set the timing on the rough assembly, much prefer to make sure an engine runs OK before doing any finish painting as you are bound to mark it if you have to strip & reassemble or rework a part.
When setting up I tend to put a small piece of soft aluminium in the hole before the grub screw so it can be tightened several times on the shaft with out any damage. Once its set OK I mark the shaft where the screws touch then as I disassemble put a couple of flats where the final screw positions are.
Once all painted you can put it back together without having to make adjustments, screw the grunscrews up tight against the flats and then just screw the square caps on and nip them up with a small spanner which seems to hold them tight enough, no need for glue or loctite.
I will post a couple of videos of the engine being tested at various stages, just to see how things turn and to makesure there are no tight spots, but need to describe the build of a few more bits first.
J
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A lot of steam pumps have a quite distinctive "yoke" which joins the pump ram to the piston rod but allows the crank to turn within it to keep the movement of the piston in line with that of the pump ram. I spent quite a while thinking of the best way to make this part and finally settled on a fabrication rather than cutting from solid.
The first job was to mark out the basic shape on some 1/16" steel sheet and drill a few holes so the two sides could be bolted together. They were then sawn to approx shape before mounting on the mill to drill a hole to give a nice radius where the two legs join.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3403_zpsa9e7fc6c.jpg)
I could then saw out the waste and file to shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3404_zpsa0013bfa.jpg)
The yoke tapers from top to bottom so the two pairs of legs were slightly bent and then clamped onto the top block to see how they looked.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3406_zps4d0cd37a.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3407_zpsad007908.jpg)
A block of steel about 5/8 x 1" was drilled to suit the holes in the legs and a 3/8" x 40 thread cut in the middle into which the stanless steel pump ram will screw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3409_zpsb9e8cbff.jpg)
This block was than screwed to a plate which was inturn fixed to the rotary table so that it could be shaped to the correct curves, first the inner edge.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3412_zpsb7b6fff2.jpg)
Then the outer leaving a flat for the ram to butt up against.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3413_zps9b3cc8fd.jpg)
Changing to a smaller cutter a bit more shape was added and the two areas where the legs go thinned down, flip it over and do the other side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3414_zps1ea4f2e4.jpg)
I then used some lengths of 3mm rod to rivit the parts together with some additional blocks where needed. The mating surfaces were centre punched to raise a burr and give a gap for the solder to flow into. The lower joints were then soldered.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3425_zps2f19ef20.jpg)
A quick clean up with a file and the thin lines of solder visible along the joint lines show that it all flowed quite nicely.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3427_zps7cf85c57.jpg)
I then made up a threaded mandrel on the lathe and screwed the yoke onto it and gently centre drilled, drilled and reamed 1/4"" in the top block for the piston rod to fit, These two must be inline for a smooth running engien,sorry no photo.
Back on the mill using a dummy piston rod in the vice and packing at the other end a hole was bored for the little end boss.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3428_zpsb6916001.jpg)
The top was then soldered, cleaned up and a raised boss turned around the piston rod socket.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3429_zps982c07ff.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3430_zps22743d14.jpg)
I had made the little end boss with a waisted centre section so gap between the two bosses would be the right width for the little end bearing when soldering and also drilled it undersize incase it moved while soldering. This was now bored and reamed to take the 1/4" wrist pin, you can just see the remnants of the waisted middle sitting on the vice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3431_zpse7773f63.jpg)
While set up like this I milled a 1/16" slot from both sides ready to be filed out for the wedge that retains the piston rod.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3432_zps518d9247.jpg)
A piece of 3/4" stainless was threaded and then turned down to 11/16" dia for the pump ram.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3435_zps323c62ef.jpg)
A bit of filing and filling then some primer and that is the Yoke completed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3437_zps462f04bc.jpg)
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Jason I want to thank you for teaching me about fabrication work. Watching you make these parts has really shown me what is possible and I try to approach things from all possible views an think things through. I don't always succeed but I am learning and I though a thank you was in order. Did I say great fabrication work. :praise2:
Don
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I'll second what Don said Jason, really wonderful and informative build to follow and I enjoy seeing your set-ups as well.
Bill
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Hi Jason, thanks for showing the fabrication work. A really good one, as usual.
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Very nice work. Hugh.
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Jason, I'm absolutely fascinated by the fabrication work here! When you say the mating surfaces are center punched to raise a burr and give a gap for solder to flow into, are you punching a pattern on the inside of the surface? That makes sense to me, but may not be what you meant.
If you are making a pattern, is there a particular technique you use? That is, do you punch 4 corners, or more, and do you punch both sides? Just curious.
Todd
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Thanks for the wonderful photos. I am learning a lot from following your build. very nice work.
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Tinglett, on this job I put 4 punch marks around each rivit hole in just one surface. I tend to use an automatic centerpunch for this as it gives an even size mark every time.
Thanks for all the other comments, next installment comming soon.
J
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All I can say Jason is WOW! The fabrication of the "castings" is impressive and very instructive. That trick of putting the square head covers on the set screws is brilliant. Late to the dance but just read through the build log....I'll certainly be back. Paul
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Looks like I need not have bothered to make the pump as a similar design one has just come up for sale :-\
http://www.stationroadsteam.com/stock%20pages/6059/index.htm
J
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Hi Jason,
Looks great, now we can see were you are going with your build. Guess for the buyer you are going to need something bigger than a Mini to get it home :lolb: to say nothing of a bigger workshop than ive got......maybe the wifes car could live outside........freight would kill it getting it down under. Looking forward to your next master class on fabrication.
Cheers Kerrin
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Jason,
Buying that would not have been nearly so much fun for us as your build!
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I started with some 3/4" square steel bar for the crank and drilled & reamed for the reduced end of the crankshaft and the big end pin.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3438_zps998ee092.jpg)
Using a couple of 1/4" stub drills in these holes it was easy to flycut the taper on either side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3441_zpsaad254a3.jpg)
Then with the vice mounted on the rotary table it was just a simple job of winding the handle to form the boss and reduce the arm to thickness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3443_zps026de8ec.jpg)
The two ends were rounded over using filing buttons and the keyway cut with a broach.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3445_zpsc1681c05.jpg)
Here it is completed along with the crankshaft and big end pin. I will fit a 1/16" sq key and loctite the crank to the shaft on final assembly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3446_zpsf4cdd013.jpg)
Some 1/4" x 1/2" flat stock was centre drilled and then the middle reduced down as the first step in forming the conrod.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3449_zps65053999.jpg)
Then over to the mill to add a pair of 1/4" reamed holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3450_zps2f8c17c9.jpg)
The big end uses a split bearing retained by a strap and adjusted with wedge & cotter. A strip of 1/16" sheet was cut off and machined to 1/4" wide then a simple jig made to bend it in, all you need to do is lay the strip on the jig and drive the round inner former down into the slot with a drift and big hammer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3451_zps1a96ae4b.jpg)
As the wedge and cotter are only 1/16" thick my usual 1/8" parallels wond do so a steel rule was packed up off the mill table and an 1/8" spot drill used at one end to give the required taper. Its then just a case of setting the work against the top of the rule and milling straight across.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3452_zpsdf6b04b5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3453_zpsdfe198ae.jpg)
An off cut of bronze was milled down to the required size then reamed on the lathe followed by cutting the recess and finally parting off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3455_zpsa6a286d6.jpg)
A quick bit of filing with some buttons to guide me and the bottom bearing was taken to its final "D" shape. The little end bearing was turned and pressed into the top hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3457_zps5f1b740a.jpg)
I used one of the 8" flywheels available from RDG as they are very reasonably priced, the surface can be a bit iffy but as I was going to paint the rim that was nothing a bit of filler could not sort out. I held it in the 4-jaw and got the inner surface of the rim running as true as possible. As there were a couple of inclusions in the surface I opted for my insert hold that uses the other two corners of the CCMT type inserts as they are a bit more robust and I have lots of unused corners, this needs to cut from the inside out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3398_zps10e7b195.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3399_zps1ac94284.jpg)
I used the same tool to do the outside of the rim, it would not quite reach the full width but as the casting was a lot wider than I needed that last bit will come off when the other side is done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3400_zps95e8f917.jpg)
Finally the outside of the hub was cleaned up and the central hole bored, also did a bit of cleaning up on the inside of the rim with a rounded tool. Before machining the other side of teh flywheel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3401_zpsf6d55326.jpg)
With most of the bits made I had a little play to see how things turned over
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8ZAnTp5ZxI
J
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Well at least we know what is't going to look like. Another well documented post Jason and you must be getting close to the finally. Pity you couldn't be close enough to go to CABIN FEVER. It would be great to meet you and your engines. :praise2:
Don
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Many full size steam engines have hollow cast iron pistons but in our smaller sizes its often easier to make a solid one so to compensate for the increased mass I like to make my pistons from aluminium. A suitable piece was turned down until 0.010" overside and drilled & tapped for the piston rod. I then cut two grooves for the rings allowing for the oversize piston before parting off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3482_zpsa691d8d8.jpg)
Once screwed onto the rod and fitted with a locknut the rod was held in a collet and the OD of the piston skimmed down to finished size which made sure it was concentric to the rod if the threading had gone a bit off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3497_zpscb78b9cd.jpg)
Most of this engine is painted and I had thought about breaking this up with some wood lagging to the cylinder but in the end decided to stick with metal as thats whats in all the photos of preserved pumps.
A suitable sheet of 0.8mm ali was held between two bits of MDF to support it and a strip cut off, by tilting the saw I could cut the full depth of the sgheet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3562_zps3c3a72d5.jpg)
This was then clamped between two bits of flat bar and the two long edges machined straight and parallel
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3564_zps1c57057b.jpg)
I then bent it by hand around ever decreasing dia formers ( thats anything suitable and round) until it was a nice fit on the cyllinder. The ends were trimmed to length and then the clading was clamped in place while the 10BA screw holes were drilled & tapped.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3565_zpsabe6a49e.jpg)
With those all done the final job was to drill clearance holes for the drain cocks which was done using a step drill as these give a nice round hole in sheet material and don't tend to snatch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3566_zpsa5a76cdb.jpg)
A few 10BA brass roundheads were trimmed to length and thats about the last bit done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3568_zpsbb86d1d4.jpg)
Rather than risk damaging finished paintwork in most cases I like to test run an engine before the finish coats are applied which I duly did before stripping it all down. The primer that I had applied during building was wiped down with thinners to remove dirty finger prints and any imperfections attended to then all the parts were given a final coat of primer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/IMAG3660_zps7aym8wn9.jpg)
The smaller items that only needed one face painting were tacked to odd bits of board with double sided, others small bits had a wire placed through a spare hole so they could be hung and any masking done. I then airbrushed 4-5 coats of Precision Paints LSWR Loco Green which is about as close as you will get me to modeling trains ;) This is one of their "dull" finishes which I prefer to a high gloss
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03157_zpsk3b4utpx.jpg)
Everything was then taken inside in the warm to allow the paint to harden for a week but I may not keep you waiting that long for the final installment.
J
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(Everything was then taken inside in the warm to allow the paint to harden for a week but I may not keep you waiting that long for the final installment.)
Another Gem to add to your growing collection Jason. Please don't keep us waiting that long?
Don
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Hi Don,
Jason has been holding out on us!! Check out what comes up AFTER the video finishes a couple of post ago. :stir:
:Love: :praise2: :praise2: :wine1: :cheers: :DrinkPint:
What more can I say
Cheers Kerrin
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Jason has been holding out on us!! Check out what comes up AFTER the video finishes a couple of post ago. :stir:
Caught :LittleDevil:
No one noticed last year when you displayed the finished engine at GMES and were still serialising the build on the forum :mischief: :mischief:
Jo
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I make no secret of it, how many times have I already mentioned or shown bits of the gade on here? and even more things on ME Forum. I just like to pace myself ;) It also gives me something to write about when I may be working on an engine that is unlikely to get written up for any forum. You know what they say about those who wait ;D
Well as the cat is out of the bag I suppose you want to see some finished photos.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03761_zpseruazwnm.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03762_zpsecfnnv6s.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03765_zpsuayk8xqh.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03766_zpstzmngmfv.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03767_zpsh2jgysaw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03768_zps7di85ok4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03769_zpscu0vn1k3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03770_zps8hwjzrgt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Engineering/Cameron%20Steam%20Pump/DSC03771_zpspysea783.jpg)
And time to :pinkelephant: :cartwheel: :whoohoo:
The flatulent noise is the balls in the valves feathering on their seats as there is no liquid or load on the pump. The pump does work as I held a vinyl glove over the outlet flange and it inflated. The couple of high pitch squeeks are me adjusting the compressor regulator as it was hard to keep the speed down, there is actually no pressure showing on the dial so its only running on a couple of psi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7mPX1CRP3o
Thanks for all your kind comments along the way, hope you have enjoyed following along as much as I enjoyed the build. I'm tending to go more in the direction of fabricated models as I get more satisfaction out of them. There is also a lot more shop time per project which keeps costs down and saves filling up display space too quickly. The fabrications are also more of a challenge for example I have just been working on a part of an aero engine, a casting would just have needed facing, boring and 5 holes drilling so a simple evenings work. Having decided to not use castings and cut from solid I have got a good weeks worth of shop time out of a £2 bit of ali and a whole lot more satisfaction when looking at the finished part, but the description of that can wait as there is an engine from a casting kit to write up first.
J
PS Sorry thought I had a Coke can shot, for an idea of size the flywheel is a shade under 8" dia and it stands 16" plus wooden base, would be easy enough to make at the original models size which is half that.
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Hi Jason,
Sorry for letting the cat out of the bag, I couldn't help myself :Argue: noticed it when I ran the video after you posted it.
Have really enjoyed your build & have stocked up on :popcorn: & :DrinkPint: for the next. About the only way you can tell from the photos that it isnt a casting is the lack of a ruff surface, would love to see it in person.
Cheers Kerrin
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Nice 8)
You know what they say about those who wait ;D
In my experience if you wait too long you'll find your expectations have got too high and it can only be a disappointment :disappointed:
I'm tending to go more in the direction of fabricated models as I get more satisfaction out of them. There is also a lot more shop time per project which keeps costs down and saves filling up display space too quickly.
So does that mean you are giving up castings :naughty:. My little brother could do with a big brother, it would make a nice tandem build :embarassed:
Jo
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Well, whenever it was finished, it is still a masterpiece Jason!! Well done.
Bill
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The Hired Man is not at the top of my list at the moment, maybe when I have a set of drag saw drawings it could see its way towards the top. Having just about completed the Gade I don't want to go straight into another Hit & Miss. Though I would not rule out another set of castings in the future if the right ones came my way.
At the moment I'm doing that engine that you still have not guessed :ShakeHead: then there are two steam sbujects and a throttle governed, hopper cooled IC engine all three of which will be fabricated.
J
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3cc Die ;)
I could help and take it off your list for you :naughty:
Jo
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Not quite, 5cc would be closer to the mark and a glow but I will give that to you. Did you have to get Eric to help you guess?
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:hellno: He was too busy eyeing up the food and making friends with the full set of accessories I have for a 10" Elliot universal dividing head he found I had. Shame I don't have the head but as it weighs in at 76Kg I might not be looking to get another :ShakeHead:
I still think you are not being kind to those Hired Man castings: when did they last get a fondle :embarassed:
Jo
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Very nice build and a great result :praise2:
I do hope that you're going to do a build of the 5cc here - please :popcorn:
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Beautifully done Jason and enjoyable to follow along. So you know I like........................ :praise2:
Don
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Another one that turned out rather well! I much enjoy following along with your builds, they come out great, and I've learned a lot
regarding the possibilities of fabrication of "castings" :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Joe
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Top Job Jason :ThumbsUp: lovely finish and a real sweet runner.
Have you tried pumping water with it ?.
Stew
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Wow Jason! It looks and runs great!
All your fabrication work makes me want to try something like that someday. You are the master at the fabrication techniques. I've learned a lot watching this and your other builds.
Thanks for sharing!
Kim
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Just finished reading this build log on modelengineeringwebsite.com.
Phenomenal piece of work. :praise2:
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Lovely piece of work indeed! Drawings?....
Dave
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Fleet Model Steam Services sold the set of Cameroon pump castings and the drawings. I know where there is a set of the castings but the owner thinks more of them than I do ::)
Jo
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Fleet Model Steam Services sold the set of Cameroon pump castings and the drawings. I know where there is a set of the castings but the owner thinks more of them than I do ::)
Jo
Ifn I was to do it, it would be a fab job like Jason's....Castings need to be very nice these days before I want to take them on again.
Dave
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Castings need to be very nice these days before I want to take them on again.
:headscratch:
Jo
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Pretty work Jason, really nice !!!