Model Engine Maker
Engines => Your Own Design => Topic started by: sbwhart on April 15, 2013, 02:13:27 PM
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I have an old works friend who's just getting started in Model Engineering along with his 11 year old son who's his showing a great interest in engines with a developing tallent for 3D CAD. Chatting to them got me thinking about an engine that could be built in a relative short time with limited equipment and I came up with the simple mill engine design that I showed the drawings her http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8128.0.html (be warned it has mistakes) that a Dad or Grandad could make together
Hence Lads and Dads.
The design is based on this engine that I saw at the Northern Mill Engine Association at Bolton at their Christmas steam up.
http://www.nmes.org/
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/IMG_3918_zps6799dda3.jpg)
I've used standard bar stock size to eliminate milling along with a piston valve, the fly wheel can be a standard 4" Stuart wheel or a fabricated one, I will also use lower cost material avoiding as must has posible copper based alloys.
Any way thats enough of that lets get on with the job,
You will need a small lathe an 1/2 decent drill with a good drill vice and some way of accuratly marking out like this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00035_zpsc9d4a069.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00035_zpsc9d4a069.jpg.html)
Just a cheep dig caliper with the legs cut back to form a set of odd legs
First Up the steam chest from 5/8 square ally. Cut a chunk off the bar face off to length in a four jaw and mark out the position for the piston valve.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00038_zps6cbde181.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00038_zps6cbde181.jpg.html)
The back into the four jaw and using a wobble bar set the centre pop running true
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00041_zps7d9194b7.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00041_zps7d9194b7.jpg.html)
Deep centre drill then to avoid the use of expensive reamers drill through with a 5.9mm or a 7/32 drill this will cut over size and make the hole near to dam it 6mm, if the bar you're going to make the piston velve out of is a bit tight just lap it down for a nice slide fit.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00045_zpse9649c9f.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00045_zpse9649c9f.jpg.html)
Then accuratly mark out the position for the inlet ports don't centre pop them, into the drill vice and line up with a sticky pin this is just a pin held onto the chuck with platercene and nudged until it runs true. Clamp the vice to the drill table
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00046_zpsb47dacd4.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00046_zpsb47dacd4.jpg.html)
The start with a small centre drill then follow up with a 3mm drill, don't unclamp the vice from the table just losen the jaws and slide the job along to line up the second hole again with the sticky pin a drill that one, do the same with the exhaust holes.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00055_zps1d1dfc36.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00055_zps1d1dfc36.jpg.html)
Mark out for the position of central inlet fead, and the 2mm dia clamp down holes, you don't need the sticky pins to line these holes up as their positions are not as critical just use the centre drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00057_zps03f89056.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00057_zps03f89056.jpg.html)
Thats it job done, just a few more holes to drill in it off the inlet and rod gland fixtures when they are made.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00058_zps5cbd6bcd.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00058_zps5cbd6bcd.jpg.html)
The deburing tool is what my late Dad made I can tell he made it as it's got his personality writen all over it.
Stew
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This is a great idea Stew and I like the name of it too!! Looking forward to seeing it progress as I do with all your threads.
Bill
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Looking forward to this Stew!
Dave
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BRAVO! Stew. That is a terrific name and a marvelous idea in the title of the project. BRAVO! :praise2:
BC1
Jim
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Nice 1 Stew, a great start. Will definitely be watching.
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I'm watching Stew! ;)
Love your Dad's deburrer! :Love: That's given me an idea....... :thinking:
David D
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Thanks for youre interest Chaps
Dave:- the handle is made from a scrap firing plug from a 30mm cannon shell, that how I know he made it :mischief:
Stew
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Thanks for youre interest Chaps
Dave:- the handle is made from a scrap firing plug from a 30mm cannon shell, that how I know he made it :mischief:
Stew
Aaawww. Stew! That's done it! :hellno:
I've been looking all through my scrap pile. Not got one er them! :facepalm:
Got a handle from a Cincinnati miller! Will that do instead? :thinking:
David D
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Thanks for youre interest Chaps
Dave:- the handle is made from a scrap firing plug from a 30mm cannon shell, that how I know he made it :mischief:
Stew
Aaawww. Stew! That's done it! :hellno:
I've been looking all through my scrap pile. Not got one er them! :facepalm:
Got a handle from a Cincinnati miller! Will that do instead? :thinking:
David D
Yah go on then it'll just about do :Jester:
Stew
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A 3D CAD animation of the engine, that my friends son did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_kW0-4IgLg
Enjoy
Stew
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Awesome!
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I have not seen an odd leg digital caliper before. How do you use it Stew?
Jim
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I have not seen an odd leg digital caliper before. How do you use it Stew?
Jim
Jim:- Say you want to scribe a line 10mm from an edge you just zero the caliper then set it to 10mm then with long leg against the edge you use the short leg to scribe the line.
Just buy a cheap digi caliper, the legs are too hard to cut with a saw so cut them back using thin cut off discs you get with dremels, and finish off on the hand grinder.
The foot at the other end is something I made so that you can use it as a depth gauge.
Stew
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Thanks Stew, I have used the caliper in that mode but did not think of modifying it to improve the accuracy. And the Depth bit at the other end looks useful.
I have a spare caliper, it is likely to be modified in the near future.
Thanks again for the hints.
Jim
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No wories Jim :ROFL:
A couple more bits finished off this morning up bright and early before six and a good 3 1/2 hrs in the shed, while it was quite (heaven :mischief:)
Whilst i'd got the four jaw in tha lathe I quicly made the square base bit this was just a simpler vertion of the steam chest, so no pics.
Then got started on the end covers, I made both covers at the same time but you may choose to make them one at a time.
First job chunk of 35mm ally bar in the lathe face off and rough out the OD then just mark the centre with a small centre drill, black the end up, and using as et of deviders mark the PCD for the four clamping down bolts, then to mark the holes position on the PCD using one of those digi protractor thing stick it onto one of the jaws (they are magnetic) zero it up and scibe a line across the centre, rotate the chuck so that it reads 90 and scribe another line across thats it you've got the hole positions marked out, no fancy kit required. If you havn't got a digi thing you can do the same trick with a spirit level.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00064_zps73a2c085.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00064_zps73a2c085.jpg.html)
Then don't remove it from the chuck take the chuck off the lathe and clamp it to the drill table locate on the position centre drill then drill to required depth I drilled it deep enough to make both.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00069_zps21704f05.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00069_zps21704f05.jpg.html)
Put the chuck back onto the lathe, and turn the 16mm register for the cylinder, I did this with a part off tool then zeroed the dial and cut a groove down to the zero in the position for the second cover.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00072_zpsc3e538d3.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00072_zpsc3e538d3.jpg.html)
Part the First cover off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00077_zps7668e55b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00077_zps7668e55b.jpg.html)
Then turn the features for the piston rod gland drill and tap M6 and part off
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00078_zps3a952425.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00078_zps3a952425.jpg.html)
Job Done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00085_zps9edb28e3.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00085_zps9edb28e3.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00082_zpsef72fa05.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00082_zpsef72fa05.jpg.html)
Stew
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Nicely done Stew! :ThumbsUp:
A matching pair of covers, for the minimum of effort........ :praise2:
David D
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Still looking good Stew!! Will be looking forward to each and every update :)
Bill
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Cheers Guys
On with the cylinder, I had a bit of 31.5 mm diameter ally in my stash a little undersize, but if I didn't clean up the OD I recon it will do the job, so faced a chuck off to lenth, then drilled and bored it out 16mm ID
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00087_zps0d998af6.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00087_zps0d998af6.jpg.html)
The using the four jaw with the cylinder longwise face off one side for valve chest.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00090_zps7f8cb89c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00090_zps7f8cb89c.jpg.html)
Turn it round 90 check that its square and face another side off for the base
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00091_zps88aea61b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00091_zps88aea61b.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00092_zps24f9f120.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00092_zps24f9f120.jpg.html)
Over onto the drill and drill the ports
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00097_zps317b8f35.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00097_zps317b8f35.jpg.html)
The spotting off the valve chest drill and tap M2
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00101_zpsb60d92a0.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00101_zpsb60d92a0.jpg.html)
Then from the end face drill down 3mm into the inlet port.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00102_zpsdbf0279b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00102_zpsdbf0279b.jpg.html)
The use the end covers to spot through for drilling and tapping M3 for the end cover fixings.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00105_zps4ae8a572.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00105_zps4ae8a572.jpg.html)
Thats the cylinder done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00107_zps82238d66.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00107_zps82238d66.jpg.html)
Time for a quick assembly of parts to see how its looking
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00108_zpsd751da35.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00108_zpsd751da35.jpg.html)
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM not bad
Stew
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Looking very well indeed.
--TIm
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Stew, how is or how will the base of the cylinder be attached to the cylinder? You are sure making some nice progress on it!!
Bill
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I've put two m3 tapped holes in the cylinder to attache the base to it.
Stew
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Nice 1 Stew, think that's proved that cylinder design is straight forward to make. No lapping either due to piston valve. Easier to get a sufficient seal with I would guess than a slide valve.
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Cheers Nick
The boss has been working today standing in for a sick teacher, so had the day all to myself in the shed, almost done an 8 hrs shift so when i've done this i'm going to have a nap.
Made the stuffing box for the valve rod
Drilling out the top hat bit
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00109_zpsb8426bcd.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00109_zpsb8426bcd.jpg.html)
Spot drilling through into the valve body for to fix the valve guide.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00110_zps071bea60.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00110_zps071bea60.jpg.html)
Shaping up thr valve guide
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00117_zps31698a06.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00117_zps31698a06.jpg.html)
Turing up the valve from a bit of 6mm stainless.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00127_zps965f8226.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00127_zps965f8226.jpg.html)
These are the valve bits
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00132_zpsdbb9ecde.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00132_zpsdbb9ecde.jpg.html)
Also turned up the piston and piston rod guid this is the only pic I took.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00133_zps54d5b94e.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00133_zps54d5b94e.jpg.html)
And the bits lose assembled
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00135_zpsc43b7b5e.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00135_zpsc43b7b5e.jpg.html)
Stew
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Very nice progress Stew....amazing what 8 hours of quiet time in the shop will do :) Hope you will get more shop time over the weekend.
Bill
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Looks good Stew, does it make appropriate whooshing noises?!
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Yes it does Nick and if I put my fingers over the right holes I can even get it to fart
:naughty::lolb: :Jester:
Stew
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Just the job!
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Looks real good Stew. :ThumbsUp: You're making me relaxed just watching. :) Your creations are always worth the cost of a ticket to watch, thanks.
BC1
Jim
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Stew,
Looking at these two pictures, I can't tell how you opened up the 3mm into the inlet port.
Then from the end face drill down 3mm into the inlet port.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00102_zpsdbf0279b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00102_zpsdbf0279b.jpg.html)
Thats the cylinder done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00107_zps82238d66.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00107_zps82238d66.jpg.html)
Was there some file work after drilling the 3mm hole to the port or is there something else I missed?
Alan
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Alan
Yes I just used a good old square file to open up into the cylinder
Thanks for your interest
Stew
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Nice project and build Stew!
Dave
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Cheers Dave
this mornings job was to make the con rod. Cut a length off 1/4*5/8 mild steel bar allowing a little extra on the length.
Mark it out then drill the hole for the bearing, to get it flat place the bar on the table put the vice over the top and clamp up on the bar, that it nice and level with the top of the vice.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00136_zpsda6e7c8e.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00136_zpsda6e7c8e.jpg.html)
Drill 8mm
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00137_zps9bf4a57c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00137_zps9bf4a57c.jpg.html)
Then centre drill each end for turning between centres
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00139_zps052df283.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00139_zps052df283.jpg.html)
Its a bit of a awkward shape for fitting a drive dog to so,
With the four jay self centering chuck turn a 6o deg point on a bit of bar.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00142_zpsbdb125c5.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00142_zpsbdb125c5.jpg.html)
Set this back in the chuck then with a life centre in the tail stop, the chuck jaws act as the drive dog.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00143_zpsb31e6927.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00143_zpsb31e6927.jpg.html)
Rough the material out rough shape and face the end to length leaving a pip.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00144_zpsae11d7bd.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00144_zpsae11d7bd.jpg.html)
Slew the compund round 3 deg then with a radius tool finish off
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00146_zps7f62e7c1.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00146_zps7f62e7c1.jpg.html)
Flip it round and turn the other end at the 3 deg setting.
A bit of work with a filing button and drill and tap for fixing the brasses and its
Job Done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00147_zps227131b1.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00147_zps227131b1.jpg.html)
Stew
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Nice con rod!
I liked that tip on using the chuck jaws as a dog.
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Yeah that was a good idea turning your own centre - knowing me I'd do it from too small a bar and the jaws wouldn't be open enough!
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I'm also voting for the four jaw and centre. A very popular candidate of the day. Nicely done, Stew.
Hugh.
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Nice technique Stew, and obviously a great result...keep it coming :)
Bill
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Thanks for your kind comments Guys
Onwards and Upwards with the bearings housings.
These are made from 5/16 thick bar not 1/4 as in the drawing i thought 1/4 would look a little flimsy.
Fist job measure the height of the piston rod to make the bearing centre height the same, then cut a couple of chuncks of the bar roughly square the ends up with a file and mark them out then as for the con rod centre drill the ends for between centre turning, I cut some of the surplus material off by hacksaw first then on to the lathe for facing off to length and turning to shape.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00153_zpsfca89cbb.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00153_zpsfca89cbb.jpg.html)
For the next bit I desided to fit my vice stop to my new drilling vice this was just a mater of drilling and tapping a M6 hole into the side of the vice.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00151_zps13066298.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00151_zps13066298.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00149_zps417ee988.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00149_zps417ee988.jpg.html)
Then onto the drill for drilling the 12m hole for the bearing I made sure that the base of the bearing was up against the fixed jaw and that the vice was firmly bolted down and the stop set.
Drill the first housing then without unbolting the vice drill the second again with its base up against the fixed jaw this way the centre height will be the same for both housings.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00156_zps97e2676a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00156_zps97e2676a.jpg.html)
Then drill the bolting down holes 2.5mm dia again taking advantage of the vice stop, I wish I'd added this before I started.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00157_zps001c3db0.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00157_zps001c3db0.jpg.html)
The give them a good seeing to with a file and filing button the shape the top
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00160_zps3fcded1b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00160_zps3fcded1b.jpg.html)
Turn up the bearing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00161_zpsac43e7e2.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00161_zpsac43e7e2.jpg.html)
Fit them in place with some loctite
and its another job done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00162_zpse1e517e1.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00162_zpse1e517e1.jpg.html)
Stew
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More good stuff Stew, and there are some good tips in your write ups that will benefit newer and younger modelers. Looking forward to each update :)
Bill
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Thanks Bill
Bit more done:- the Cross head
Made from a bit of oblong section bar, start by marking the centre on a end face accuratly centre pop the position.
The using a wobble bar centre it up using a four jaw independant chuck.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00164_zps7e8d1a9d.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00164_zps7e8d1a9d.jpg.html)
Turn a step up centre drill and tap M4 for the piston rod.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00166_zps618c2c1f.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00166_zps618c2c1f.jpg.html)
Keeping it on the bar helps you to securly clamp it, drill a couple of hole to form the slot.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00169_zps5dfbc229.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00169_zps5dfbc229.jpg.html)
Flip it on its side and drill for the end pin.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00171_zps26161872.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00171_zps26161872.jpg.html)
Then cut it off the bar hacksaw the slot and file to fit
And its another one done.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00174_zps6e02ae41.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00174_zps6e02ae41.jpg.html)
Stew
-
Stew
This is a great project. I hope that it inspires people with limited equipment to expand their horizons. It is great that you do not let the limits that you have set on this project to be used as an excuse for sloppy work. Hacksaws and files can produce fine results as you so nicely show.
Jerry
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I agree. Filing is a much overlooked art form and the lowly hacksaw seems to be neglected a lot of times. This is truly a good series for the beginner to glean much information from as it is displaying good technique in the making of parts. Keep up the good work Stew :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
-
Stew,
With pieces like this, do you do layout marks on both faces before sawing and filing?
Alan
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Hi Alan
Sometimes i will mark larger parts out, but with the cross head being quite small, I just made it fit the con rod and filed the rads by MK1 eye ball.
Stew
-
From a technical point of view doesn't making a center in your chuck and then moving it negate the benefit of turning the center in place? From a practical point of view, keeping the center aligned with chuck in the same position it was turned, surely means it works out fine.
Sorry to be so picky, it just popped into my head as I was reading your excellent write up. I am enjoying it very much.
Lee
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Hi Stew,
Thanks for your detailed explanation and excellent photographs. I'm really enjoying this build :ThumbsUp:
Kind Regards.
Ewald
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Lee if you only loosen 2 jaws it is going to clamp back in as near as damn it the same position. The point of turning the centre was to have one large enough such that the jaws are wide enough apart to act as drive dogs.
-
From a technical point of view doesn't making a center in your chuck and then moving it negate the benefit of turning the center in place? From a practical point of view, keeping the center aligned with chuck in the same position it was turned, surely means it works out fine.
Sorry to be so picky, it just popped into my head as I was reading your excellent write up. I am enjoying it very much.
Lee
Lee:- Yes and No the parts I'm turning are not that critical if things move a bit all that will hapen is that the part will be turned tapered slightly, and I'm turning a taper on one of them any way, and the other it won't make any diference if it is tapered. That's why its important to try and understand the function of a feature, that way you get it right when it needs to be and you can slaken up where it doesn't.
Stew
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A few more parts done,
First up the bearing brasses:- drill the clamping holes in some 1/4" brass square bar
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00176_zps7a165ea1.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00176_zps7a165ea1.jpg.html)
Then bolt them too the con rod mark the centre line and drill and ream through 6mm dia
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00178_zps3bbe63c4.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00178_zps3bbe63c4.jpg.html)
Then make the end plat sorry no pics for that bit.
Then make the little end gudgion pin
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00189_zps6b3a912c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00189_zps6b3a912c.jpg.html)
The the slide bars to get the M4 tap square I light held the tap in the chuck jaws just enough to keep them square but not enough to stop it turning in the chuck then with the wrench clamped on the parallel bit of the tap start the tap nice and square, and remove the job from the vice to finish it off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00192_zps4018988d.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00192_zps4018988d.jpg.html)
Thes are the bits
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00197_zps4afb413f.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00197_zps4afb413f.jpg.html)
And how they assemble
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00194_zpsc4b2dc7c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00194_zpsc4b2dc7c.jpg.html)
Stew
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Very nice Stew...still following along and enjoying your thread on this build.
Bill
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Yeah looks good, like it. :ThumbsUp:
-
Thanks for the support Lads :thumbup:
I ordered a chunk of 1/4"* 3" ally plate from ebay, for the bed plate I first carfully marked out the position for the cylinder assembly i had to drill and tap 2 more m3 hole into the cylinder base to fix it I intended to screw to go right through the bed plate through the cylinder base into the cylinder but my M3 countersunk cap screws were too short for this hence the extra holes.
Drilled and countersink the bed plate.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00198_zps3dfb0fb7.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00198_zps3dfb0fb7.jpg.html)
Then made the crodd head slide bars from some 1/4" squ mild steel bar, I put the drill vice stop to good use to get them all drilled the same with the stop set and the vice clamped to the table it it just a matter of setting up on the first then driiling it then dito for the rest having first made shure they were all the same length.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00202_zps5e80e7bc.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00202_zps5e80e7bc.jpg.html)
Then the spacers were made I just truned a length up enough to make three centrree drilled then drilled through 2.5 than carfully parted them all off to the same length. No pics
Then it was the turn for the supporting pillars it important that these are made to match the assembly so a took my time and measured the centre height of the piston and did a bit of a calculation to get their heght (29.4mm). I made them from some brass hex bar i had in my stash, first I parted four off 31mm long faced and tapped one end M3 and did the same to the other end but M2.5. These pillars need to be all the same exact length, so I fitted my back stop into my lathe head stock.
This is the beast its just a No 3 morse taper with an M8 hole one end for the stops, and a M10 in the other for a draw bar.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00212_zps6cb223d8.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00212_zps6cb223d8.jpg.html)
And it in the lathe
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00209_zps3c30f51b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00209_zps3c30f51b.jpg.html)
And with the chuck mounted.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00208_zps6a23c865.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00208_zps6a23c865.jpg.html)
It was just a mater then of setting the sadle facing off at the same setting, to make them all the same allowing .5 for final finished, put on the final .5 flip them round and face off job done.
I then turned a parallel to just leav a short length of hex.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00204_zpse37b563a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00204_zpse37b563a.jpg.html)
I then carfully marked the position to driil the holes for the pillars in the bed plate ensuring there was enogh room to tkae up the travel of the cross head etc, and then drill and chamfered the bed plate to take m3 countersunk cap screws to hold them
To ensure the valve rod support lined up with the rod a turned a point on a bit of 3mm silver steel mounted it in the valve chest and gave the support a light biff to mark the position for the hole.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00213_zpsf1814eae.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00213_zpsf1814eae.jpg.html)
Time for a few hows it looking shots.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00214_zps0b9b03ca.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00214_zps0b9b03ca.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00214_zps0b9b03ca.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00214_zps0b9b03ca.jpg.html)
Not bad just the crank eccentric and the fly wheel to make.
Stew
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You are indeed making good progress Stew. These mill type horizontal engines get my heart pumping. :ThumbsUp:
BC1
Jim
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You're really cracking along on this one Stew! Good work :ThumbsUp:
Kind regards, Arnold
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Nice post!
Reminds me of some tooling I need to make sometime.
-
Its really starting to look like and engine now Stew. Very nice too!!!
Bill
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Cheers Chaps
The Boss was has been away all day visiting an old school friend, so I was in pigs heaven, all day in the shop.
First bit the crank shaft, turn up and thread the end and cut off
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00218_zps158040df.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00218_zps158040df.jpg.html)
Next bits the crank webs, made from 1/2"*1/4" mild steel bar cut off a couple of bits allowing a bit for cleaning up, then mark out
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00222_zpsa6d4585e.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00222_zpsa6d4585e.jpg.html)
Then drill both 8mm
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00224_zpsacea79bd.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00224_zpsacea79bd.jpg.html)
Then stick a bit of 8mm bar through both bits and then drill 6mm hole this way the hole centres will be exactly the same for both bits.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00225_zpsc645e659.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00225_zpsc645e659.jpg.html)
Then turn up a 8mm mandrell
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00228_zps4c358012.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00228_zps4c358012.jpg.html)
Mount both bits to the mandrel tighten up tight abd skim down the ends to form a nice rad
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00230_zps05c5a18a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00230_zps05c5a18a.jpg.html)
Turn the mandrell down to 6mm mount the bits back onto it and turn the other end down.
Give both parts a tidy up and a polish
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00234_zps5bb9cd2a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00234_zps5bb9cd2a.jpg.html)
Then with high strength loctite assemble the crank shaft and cronk pin.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00235_zps6d99f69c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00235_zps6d99f69c.jpg.html)
Just to make sure drill and pin the webs in place.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00240_zps3a9cadb6.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00240_zps3a9cadb6.jpg.html)
For the pins use nails cut off just a little longer than required and rivet in place and clean up, and cut out the middle bit of the crank shaft.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00241_zpsb61929cf.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00241_zpsb61929cf.jpg.html)
Next bit the eccentric to avoid the use of a milling machine this is fabricated in two part plus the eccentric sheath.
Luckily I had a bit of brass tube that was near to dam it the corect size all I had to do was part a ring off, and drill and tap M3 for the shaft.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00238_zps96b814fd.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00238_zps96b814fd.jpg.html)
The eccentric first part was a top hat outer part.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00244_zpsb394ef8b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00244_zpsb394ef8b.jpg.html)
Then the inner part this as the off set for the throw.
Turn up dia for assembly to the top hat bit
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00248_zpsa64b15bf.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00248_zpsa64b15bf.jpg.html)
Try the fit
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00249_zpsc76ab830.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00249_zpsc76ab830.jpg.html)
Flip it round in the chuck face to thickness and put in a small centre.
Then mark out the throw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00250_zps29c178de.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00250_zps29c178de.jpg.html)
Set it up with a wobble bar
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00251_zps527818f9.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00251_zps527818f9.jpg.html)
Drill and ream
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00252_zpse790398f.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00252_zpse790398f.jpg.html)
Turn up the boss
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00255_zpsf020b559.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00255_zpsf020b559.jpg.html)
And stick the bits together with high strength loctite
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00256_zps45469871.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00256_zps45469871.jpg.html)
And a try for fit of todays bits.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/DSC00258_zps5d567de7.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/DSC00258_zps5d567de7.jpg.html)
Stew
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She is looking great Stew, shows what can be done without a mill!
-
Thanks Nick
I'm getting to that stage when your arse start to twich with self doubt:- will she run or won't she.
Stew
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She'll run Stew...I have no doubts :)
Bill
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I'll second that, it will run, and quite well I am sure. I've certainly enjoyed the ride so far Stew, thanks for that.
BC1
Jim
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Thats going to be running soon Stew!....looks great!
Dave
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Thanks for all your interest Chaps.
My offering this morning are just a few of the fiddly bits that need doing.
Drill and tapped the eccentric for a M3 grub screw
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00260_zps4b544858.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00260_zps4b544858.jpg.html)
As I drew the engine up I relised that there was no provision for setting the valve event, I scratched my head on this one for some time then I had a look through the pic I took of the origonal engine to see how they did it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_3919_zps6b307c6b.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_3919_zps6b307c6b.jpg.html)
So decided it would be best to try and copy this arangement.
This require some 3mm dia cross holes drilled. The parts are made from 6mm dia stainless first off I drill and parted off a thick washer with a 3mm hole, I then used this to locate for the cross holes.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00261_zpsfc50a948.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00261_zpsfc50a948.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00262_zps291975fc.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00262_zps291975fc.jpg.html)
It was just a mater then of turning up the parts.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00264_zps952035b1.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00264_zps952035b1.jpg.html)
This is how the orangement looks on the model, that cap screw gets in the way so I'm going to replace it with a grub screw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00268_zpsaeae0d32.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00268_zpsaeae0d32.jpg.html)
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it hase enough movement to activate the valve.
Stew
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I'm waiting on some steel tube to make the fly wheel so decided to get on and finish the bed plate off, I carfully marked the position for the crank bearing and drill them out 2.7mm clearance on M2.5. The bit of ally I made the bed plate from was 3" wide I wanted 2" but that was all I could get so had to cut it down, using a hack saw and a guide plate, so that things didn't wander off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00272_zps625f56a4.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00272_zps625f56a4.jpg.html)
Then filed the cut off level, noting too fussy just as long as it doesn't offend the eye.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00274_zpsa9426995.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00274_zpsa9426995.jpg.html)
The drill 4 corner holes and filed some fancy rads on the corners.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00276_zps416aba47.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00276_zps416aba47.jpg.html)
Assembled the engine back to the bed plate, and fixed a carrier to the crank shaft to try and turn it over, turned over ok, but the valve rod thing fouled, did a bit of adjustment, phew ther's enough clearnace for it travel its full movement, I roughly set the valve and spent 1/2" turning it over by hand it nows turn over nice and free.
Can't wait for that steel to arrive.
Decided to make the base, these sort of engine often stood on stone plyths, so got hold of some chip board, cut two bits off to size and rounded the edge, then cut and filed some nicks along the edge to simulate the stone courses.
This is what it looks like.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00277_zpsdc6aea67.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00277_zpsdc6aea67.jpg.html)
I'll give it some licks of paint I'm hoping that it will keep its rough texture to look like stone. I aplied some wood glu and clamp them together, I'll see what they are like tomorrow.
Stew
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Stew, the stonework looks good from what i see and just the right scale too. Will be interesting to see how it finishes up.
Bill
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Yeah love that idea Stew, looks spot on!
-
The stonework is a great idea, will you be painting in mortar as well? Very nice engine,Stew.
Cheers, Hugh.
-
I like that stonework.
Some people use ceiling tile...but I think more for 'natural' stone like bluffs and cliffs.
And ceiling tile is a bit soft.
I hadn't thought about chip board.
This is one of the things I like about this hobby. It's not necessarily just about metal...lots of different hobby interests can be satisfied.
-
Thanks for looking in Bill/Nick/Hugh/Zee
The stonework is a great idea, will you be painting in mortar as well? Very nice engine,Stew.
Cheers, Hugh.
Hugh:- this is very much a learning curve for me I thought I would felt tip in the mortar line, then I'm planning on buying some sample pots of emultion paint, and water it down some, and then with a stiff brush stencil the paint over the bricks with a bit of luck the mortoar line will show through as well as the texture of the wood chip, I may then give it a coat of mat varnish, i have some test peices i will try it out on first.
Stew
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I like that base Stew! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
-
Cheers Dave
Still waiting on some material to finish this engine off, in the mean time visited our local hobby craft shop and they were having a bit of a clearance and picked this stuff up to have a try at staining the wood chip
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00278_zpsba8f1b1c.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00278_zpsba8f1b1c.jpg.html)
Its water based wood stain and some felt tip pens, after a bit of a play I found that the tips were next to usless dried out that is why they were cheep, so instead I had some white emulsion paint that I added some of the wood stain to and added that with a thin paint brush to show up the cement bonding, I aint no Rembrant when it comes too paint. I then sealed it off with the PVA watered down a bit.
I don't think it looks too bad.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00282_zpsede32bac.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00282_zpsede32bac.jpg.html)
Now where is that post man
Stew
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Looks good from here Stew. Seems like you had a nice afternoon with this. Hope your other materials will arrive soon.
Bill
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Good stuff Stew, they look like real stones - am going to try it on next engine!
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Bravo, Stew. That faux brick work appears like the real deal (of course that was the whole point). Terrific job of selecting and applying the paints and finishes. You 'gots it' looking right. I will have to try to remember this trick for future reference. Thanks .... now then, where IS that postman, doesn't he know he is holding up the show here? :thinking: :rant:
BC1
JIm
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Cheers :D
Well the posti dropped off the material for the fly wheel. :ddb:
So first job was to cut off a 1" slice from the tube its 100 od with a 4mm wall.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00283_zpscc106c86.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00283_zpscc106c86.jpg.html)
Then face to length 3/4"
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00284_zpsa039e8e2.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00284_zpsa039e8e2.jpg.html)
Skim up the OD
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00285_zpsf1644d89.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00285_zpsf1644d89.jpg.html)
Then clock up the OD in independent four jaw chuck because the tube is relatively thin and it distorts some what with the internal stresses it a bit like trying to clock up a bit of jelly, just get it as good as you can as long as it doesn't offend the eye.
And skim up the bore.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00289_zpsc7384b0a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00289_zpsc7384b0a.jpg.html)
And turn a step for the hub to but up against.
Next up the hub this is made from a chuck of 1/4 ms plate 100mm square. first mark up the centre and draw a circle 100mm dia and trim off the corners with a hack saw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00291_zps496e750a.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00291_zps496e750a.jpg.html)
The drill and 1/2" hole in the middle
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00292_zps62fb1447.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00292_zps62fb1447.jpg.html)
And mount it on an 1/2" mandrell and turn up the OD for a nice push fit into the rim.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00294_zps242ccb52.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00294_zps242ccb52.jpg.html)
On the original Bolton museum engine the fly wheel doesn't have spokes just 4 holes I don't know if this is the original fly wheel or one the Bolton lads have knocked up. So drill 4*22mm dia hole in it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00297_zpsd059e8aa.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00297_zpsd059e8aa.jpg.html)
Turn up the inner hub a nice tight fit it the outer bit.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00296_zps8cf2ae56.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00296_zps8cf2ae56.jpg.html)
And stick the lot together with high strength Loctite.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00299_zps4156c627.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00299_zps4156c627.jpg.html)
Its doing its curing thing now until tomorrow when I will finish it off, I have a few domestic duties to do this afternoon. :(
Stew
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Nice Stew!! Happy your materials arrived. It shouldn't be long now until you give it a try and I'm looking forward to that!!
Bill
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Will have to try one of these built up flywheels one day. Looks good.
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Thanks Chaps
This mornings task to complete the flywheel, just griped it in the three jaw to see how it was running, and it looked good so drilled and reamed 6mm for the crank shaft.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00301_zpsc6a88842.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00301_zpsc6a88842.jpg.html)
Then spent the next couple of hours striping down and adding studs and sealer where required and chasing out tight spots then I wen and lost one of the main bearing searched every ware, brushed the floor, I gone though the cussing stage into despair, so went and asked the Boss to help me do a CSI search of the shed, "what are we looking for" "one of those", I said pointing to the remaining bearing, " so there should be three she said", "No", I said a little tetchy, " there's two" "well she said there's two there pointing"
Can you spot the missing bearing
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00303_zps99ff4eb4.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/DSC00303_zps99ff4eb4.jpg.html)
:lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb:
I can play a mean pin ball
:lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb: :lolb:
So with that mystery solved a roughly set the timing, and with not much hope gave it some air.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2mcZ_UrLcA
:cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel:
Stew
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Gee Stew ...and I thought I was the only one who did that!
:lolb:.....and yes after about a minute ....I spotted it.....I guess I don't get the CSI job either! :ROFL:
Well done my friend....she's a runna!
:praise2:
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Congratulations Stew, well done! She is a beauty and running great!! :ThumbsUp: :cheers:
Regards.
Ewald
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Nice 1 Stew authentic looking engine that can be made on a lathe - spot on, and now you have a cylinder / valve design that you know can be used in different configurations.
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Nice 1 Stew authentic looking engine that can be made on a lathe - spot on, and now you have a cylinder / valve design that you know can be used in different configurations.
Oh good point Nick, I hadn't thought about those ramifications :ThumbsUp: And Stew, that is a real sweetheart of an engine it should be well within the grasp of the novice builder. A swell model for the more experienced that are just looking for a good looking and relaxing build to pass the time.
Thank the Mrs. for the extra pair of eyes :o and for providing us with some chuckles too. :slap: :Lol:
BC1
Jim
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that is a real sweetheart of an engine it should be well within the grasp of the novice builder.
Indeed. Although perhaps more difficult to get it to look as good and run as well as Stew's.
Nice!
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What a great result Stew and seems to be running beautifully too!!! I have enjoyed this build immensely and will be sorry to see it end.
Bill
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:cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel:
Great job!
:cartwheel: :cartwheel: :cartwheel:
Alan
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Nice job Stew
Now can you send the missus out to NZ to find my missing bearings? I purchased 4 3x6x2.5 bearings for my Bobcat rockers and they were carefully put in the top drawer of my toolmakers cabinet. Rockers were made, and now no bearings. A similar search ensued but without luck. My engine now sports silver steel rollers. Perfectly adequate so the investigation is now downgraded to a cold case.
Alternatively we could start an international version of "Where's Wally?" if you loose something take a photo of the workshop and get everybody on the forum (and their missus) to assist with tracking it down.
Pete
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Beaut job Stew :praise2: I started well before you and still not close to running. Experience is a good thing though.
I can relate Stew. I spent 45 mins looking for my glasses and called 'er indoors to help, came in the shed looked at me and said on top of your head you stupid $%^&*.
As an aside I picked up Feb 2012 ME in a 3 pack of MEW and there you are with the making of the American popcorn engine which I was following on HSEM way back then before the collapse of my then favourite forum
Pete
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Thanks all for your replies and support Chaps its very kind of you.
I must say its been a fun build.
Spent sum time fine tuning her, tightening and loosening nuts to see what happens as a result I've packed one of the bearing up a little, they weren't quite level, and I've also packed the cylinder up a little, I recon it wasn't quite lining up with the slide bars.
I'm going to have another fiddled with her today (the engine that is :LittleDevil:) I still think there are few improvements to make to her running.
Then its time for a bit bling, acorn nuts on the top of the slide bars, I think I'll increase the size of the hold down bolts on the bed plate to M4 and add some bolt down pads so it looks a bit more like a casting, then its a strip down and a bit of paint:- apple green fro the engine and red for the fly wheel and I'm going to had some wooden cladding to the cylinder, and finally a nice hardwood base, and that should be just about job Done.
Ho and a nearly forgot, bring the drawing up to date and write it up for the Model Engineer.
Stew
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Stew,
Bloody Brilliant. :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Best Regards
Bob
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Stew
I have been quietly following your progress in the background and soaking up all the cool tips. Thank you very much.
Vince
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Congrats for a successful first run. It seems to have taken very little time to have made this engine. It's now a proven design!
Hugh.
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Thanks for your replies guys
I've been busy revising the drawings, if any one wants a copy of the revised plans just drop me a PM
Stew
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:ThumbsUp: Well done Stew
She runs great :)
Kind regards, Arnold
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Cheers Arnold
Well got it all painted and polished up hers a few glam shots
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0153_zps11a36505.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0153_zps11a36505.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0156_zpsabfe4fc4.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0156_zpsabfe4fc4.jpg.html)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0159_zps34893b6d.jpg) (http://s431.photobucket.com/user/sbwhart/media/Lads%20and%20Dads%20engine/IMG_0159_zps34893b6d.jpg.html)
Stew
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Beautiful Stew! Looks absolutely incredible. I like the colours :cheers:
Regards.
Ewald
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Looks great, Stew. Nice paint job, and the pointing on the brickwork looks great too.
Cheers, Hugh.
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Fantastic Stew,from the brick base to the top of the flywheel. I hope you will consider putting the glam shots in the "Showcase" section too with a link back to your build thread. I do hope too that lots of Lads and Dads will see this one and have a go at it.
Bill
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Such a delightful engine to behold. And one that is not terribly complicated to build. I would certainly hope that this fine example will bring many a Dad and their :Love: promising young engineers together for some quality shop time. Stew, I say again, BRAVO! :ThumbsUp:
BTW: how is the development work :atcomputer: on your other engine design coming along?
cheers
BC1
Jim
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Stew, great looking machine. I've really enjoyed the build. We've acquired a couple of "young'uns" here with Marinus and Steamer2 (William). This is the way we continue our hobby. Cheers to ya mate.
Yo Redneck,
Eric
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Stew, great looking machine. I've really enjoyed the build. We've acquired a couple of "young'uns" here with Marinus and Steamer2 (William). This is the way we continue our hobby. Cheers to ya mate.
Yo Redneck,
Eric
What Eric said :NotWorthy:
Best Regards
Bob
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Love the engine Stew, I really like your choice if green paint. Enjoyed your built and following along.
Don
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Thanks for the interest and kind comments guys
her is the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hG9zZOqQ5o
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hG9zZOqQ5o frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Stew
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Absolutely LOVE the video Stew....what a sweet runner that is!!!
Bill
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Absolutely LOVE the video Stew....what a sweet runner that is!!!
Bill
Ditto!.....and I love your accent Stew :ThumbsUp:
It's a runnah!
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Hello.
I'm trying to build this nice engine,but I can not find any exhaust port in the drawings that I have.
Maybe I'm blind,but any help would be appreciated.
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It is a piston valve engine. As the steam/air enters through one opening in the valve face it exhausts through the other.
Steam/air enters the single hole at the top of the valve chest and exits via the two holes at the bottom.
http://www.greatwestern.org.uk/basic5.htm
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I know how such an engine works,
Actually it's not the first engine I build with a piston valve,
but in the drawings are only the two holes shown from the valve chest entering the cylinder.
For my understanding the in and out for the steam to the cylinder.
If the steam goes back to it,where can it enter the atmosphere?
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Hi
I've built one of these engines - in the valve chest there should be 1 hole as the inlet, 2 holes into the cylinder and 2 holes leading from the spool bore to atmosphere as the exhaust.
Are you using Stewarts original plans as they are all shown on his drawings.
Peter.
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Plan has air entering on the side of the valve chest and exiting via two holes in the bottom, though I think Stew actually brought the steam into he top on his model, makes no difference.
-
Thank you very much.
Now I understand how to read this drawing.
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Hello.
I'm trying to build this nice engine,but I can not find any exhaust port in the drawings that I have.
Maybe I'm blind,but any help would be appreciated.
Hi thanks for the interest in the engine
As Jason it's a piston valve engine with what they call centre admission meaning the steam/air enters the middle of the steam chest and exhausts through the ends via the two holes or if you leave the covers off at the end it will exit there.
Stew
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Hello,Stew.
I simply overlooked the two exhaust holes. :facepalm2:
Actually I'm not very good in reading drawings.
Let me say thank you for sharing the plans.
I really like your kind of building reports as well.
Very informative and a pleasure to read.
I've learned and still learn much from you.
Being an autodidact in modell engineering
without people like you,I wouldn't be able to build any engine at all.
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Very informative thread - very helpful to beginners like me. Thank you.
I plan to have a go at building this engine in due course.