Model Engine Maker
Supporting => Vehicles & Models => Topic started by: stevehuckss396 on August 11, 2014, 02:28:31 AM
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Howdy folks!
It's been many many months that I have had no shop time. That has got to change so I have been making plans for a new project. No matter where you go, or who you show your engines to, the number one question is, "are you going to put it in anything". Well I am. Over the last few months I have been drawing a S&W racing, 68-72 Chevelle chassis in one fifth scale so that the blown Demon will fit into it. I purchased drawings from George for the nine inch ford rear end. The transmission is still up in the air. After I work out the wheelie bar arrangement I plan to move forward on this 2 year project. I plan to make the build thread exclusive to this forum and one other that is RC related. Posting on 5-6 forums gets to be a little too much.
The first move will be to make a fixture on an aluminum plate 12 X 34 inches to fixture the chassis for assembly.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/Untitled.jpg~original)
Once the chassis is completed I will need to make a rearend. I have never cut a gear in my life so nothing like jumping in with both feet. The ring gear will be 1.700 inches in diameter with 40 teeth. The final ratio will be 3.75:1
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/Untitled4.jpg~original)
The chassis will be fitted with disk brakes. I have not decided weather they will funtion like the real ones but I might give that a whirl.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/Untitled3.jpg~original)
The blown Demon will be fitted. I have no plans for a trans. I can make wheels but tires will be another challenge. The body is another problem but who knows.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/Untitled2.jpg~original)
When I get going on this I'll post up some pictures and give regular reports.
Cheers!
Steve
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Steve
Nothing like a little project to keep your hand in. You could have come up with something challenging.
Seriously, this is astounding! I'm pulling up 2 chairs.
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Steve, I've got a call out to my RC brethren for approximately 1/5 scale wheels and tires.....Haven't heard anything yet...but I'll keep asking.
Dave
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Steve, I've got a call out to my RC brethren for approximately 1/5 scale wheels and tires.....Haven't heard anything yet...but I'll keep asking.
Dave
Thanks Stan!
Dave, thanks for checking for me. If there is nothing out there I will try the FG's but I have never had a good experience ordering anything out of China. Just never works out.
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This looks like an awsome project. :whoohoo:
Good luck and looking forward to the build.
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Hi Steve a good start for an impressive project. Looking at your fixture for chassis/frame making l am missing the jigs for the important brackets like rear upper damper fixation. Are they still under construction ? I see all the jigs to guide the tubes, but no jigs for the main suspension or engine mounting points.
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Well Steve, I see that you decided to go with something easy this time around. :Jester:
It's going to be fun to watch this one.
Alan
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That's a very impressive project Steve indeed :ThumbsUp: It will certainly be something to be party to as it develops so I hope you can get back into the shop soon :)
Good luck with it (and for sourcing those tires)
Ramon
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Hi Steve nice project! try this sight for wheels and tires Steve, he makes foam tires with rubber caps as well as all rubber tires, he made me a tire for my 1/5th scale dragbike. http://bishopracingproducts.com/
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I have no doubts that you can pull this off Steve. Should be a fun ride!!
Bill
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Hi Steve,
Boy you've bit off a big one with this project! It's going to be an amazing model.
gbritnell
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Impressive! That's a lot of tricky geometry in the frame there. :popcorn:
Simon
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To use an awfully overworked term...."Awesome"!
Steve, thanks for letting watch this take shape.
Mosey :cartwheel: :cartwheel:
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Steve I have also made my own tires out of sheet neoprene rubber you can get it in 1-1.25 thick sheets then I glue them together and I cut them out, I have also had them water jetted. you can sand them to shape on the lathe.
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WOW Steve! What a fantastic project this will be!
John
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Hi Steve a good start for an impressive project. Looking at your fixture for chassis/frame making l am missing the jigs for the important brackets like rear upper damper fixation. Are they still under construction ? I see all the jigs to guide the tubes, but no jigs for the main suspension or engine mounting points.
rear upper damper fixation? Are we talking about shock absorbers? If so that is worked out. If not you lost me.
Front suspension is a simple bracket to attach rods with heim joints. Motor mounts and trans mount will be done when I figure out what to do about the trans.
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Yes Steve, I have had shock absorber in my mind. It is really a long time ago, when I have welded my last tubular frame for a real race car, but I remember very well, that I have first made all the fixtures for the suspension pick up points and engine and gearbox fixation. Later than some jigs for special tube guiding. But I am only remembering here some good old times. I am sure you will show us here an excellent piece of craft manship in the near future. I will following along.
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Yes Steve, I have had shock absorber in my mind. It is really a long time ago, when I have welded my last tubular frame for a real race car, but I remember very well, that I have first made all the fixtures for the suspension pick up points and engine and gearbox fixation. Later than some jigs for special tube guiding. But I am only remembering here some good old times. I am sure you will show us here an excellent piece of craft manship in the near future. I will following along.
I figured it would be easier to just make the parts and install them than draw them. I should have no trouble after the framework is done dropping a few plumb bobs and picking up the points. The center of spindle is on the drawings as well as the center of rear axle.
Rear Shock mounting are ready to go.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/Untitled-1.jpg~original)
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My Friend Ryan suggested we check out this site for tires and wheels.....take a look.
how big a tire is that?
http://www.davesmotors.com/fg-06418-06-slick-tire-inserts-rear-m1-80mm-1_6.html
Dave
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Steve glad to see you on another great project. That should be an awesome built and I will be following along. I have a question about the Mini Bike and I must of some how missed the completion. This is the last I seen of it http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1069.msg32715#msg32715
Has it been finished completely? I would be grateful just to see a photo of it.
Don
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Steve glad to see you on another great project. That should be an awesome built and I will be following along. I have a question about the Mini Bike and I must of some how missed the completion. This is the last I seen of it http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1069.msg32715#msg32715
Has it been finished completely? I would be grateful just to see a photo of it.
Don
Mini is not done. I had to take a step back and see what I have going on. I have about 5 projects going right now. I just stopped and made a list of what I want to do and what order I want to do it. I guess you could say I had to re-focus. The blower motor is the highest on the list (right now) so here we go. I also checked out the Conley motors in cars at the Glenn Reid auction and just loved them. Cant afford to buy one so I will have to build one. They went from 8 to 20 thousand. So it's the V8 right now in a Chassis with some big fat slicks!
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My Friend Ryan suggested we check out this site for tires and wheels.....take a look.
how big a tire is that?
http://www.davesmotors.com/fg-06418-06-slick-tire-inserts-rear-m1-80mm-1_6.html
Dave
Hello Dave!
88mm is only about 3-1/2 inches tall. Im looking for about 6 to 6-1/2 tall and 3-1/2 to 4 inches wide. I dropped an email to a guy who makes custom tires for the 1/5th and 1/4 scale racers. Might be costly but worth it if it's exactly what im looking for. I'll keep you posted.
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Couldn't tell if that was the tire OD or the Wheel OD.....Glad you have a lead though!
Dave
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Model Engineer Mag recently had about a 3 part article on how to make moulds and cast your own rubber tyres if you want to try the DIY route.
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Model Engineer Mag recently had about a 3 part article on how to make moulds and cast your own rubber tyres if you want to try the DIY route.
do you have the link to that article Jason?
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Its in Magazine Numbers 4468, 4469 and 4471
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Got a start on the project today. I decided to make a bending plate to bend tubing. It will take longer but I like the fact that when I make a pair of something the two pieces will match perfectly. The plate has a million holes in it. Depending on what piece is getting bent, the rollers and blocks are placed accordingly. The first block and roller are placed onto the plate and the tubing is bent around the first roller until it is in a position where it just slots into the next roller. Then the next roller and block are placed and the tube is bent again. There are 4 major parts that need to be perfect so it will be worth the extra effort.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1818s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/Untitled2.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/Untitled.jpg~original)
Here we go!
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YEAH!!
The time spent making the jig results in a shortcut. Nice work.
Mosey
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Oh I'm definitely settling in for this build!
Dave
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The fixture looks great Steve. What will you be using for the tubing & how will the tubes be joined?
John
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That jig is a great idea, consider that one filed away for future reference, thanks.
Now to settle in for the ride.
Tim
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The fixture looks great Steve. What will you be using for the tubing & how will the tubes be joined?
John
I'm going to use brass tubing. Brass tube is strong for it's weight. It also resists bending. I will need to anneal the pieces that will get bent and they will most likely work harden when I bend them. The joints will be soldered.
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The fixture plate is ready.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1820s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1823s.jpg~original)
I had a 9th inning design change. The 1/4 inch plate was as flat as glass but I didn't know if it would stay that way through out the build so I added 2 rails. They are one inch hollow tubing that were rescued from the trash.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1825s.jpg~original)
I ordered some stock to make the uprights so I hope to be going at it by the middle of next week.
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Yet another interesting build :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: I will be following along :popcorn: :DrinkPint:
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Good morning!
I have finished all the blocks and rollers for the bending plate. The risers for the fixture are also completed and installed. I purchased .031 wall tubing instead of .014 wall tubing. The thicker wall seems to bend better and look better when finished. Doesn't seem to collapse in the bend as bad. The tubing was listed as "unbendable" in the catalog. I tried to bend a piece about 8 inches long by hand and it really wants to stay straight. The tubing was heated in the proper spot to a red hot and then left to cool. It bent real easy and the bender worked real nice. I made some test pieces. I also made up a pair of small blocks that when paired have a 5/16 hole thru them to hold the tubing so the ends can be profiled with the correct radius. The tubing can be soldered with a nice butt joint after dressing the ends. I will get serious about making tubing early next week. Maybe have something soldered up to show you by next weekend.
I also ordered the tires from Bishop Racing Products. Bishop supplies tires to the RC drag racing community. They will be as close to the correct scale size as I could hope for. When they hit the door I can finalize the width of the rearend. Also the wheels can be finalized and have that part ready for when I get bored.
Cheers!
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1831s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1828s.jpg~original)
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Man Steve this is going to be a cool build. I need to get going on my engine they have been setting over the summer.
This is looking good.
NICE!
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Steve, That's going to be really cool. Have you come up with a transmission idea? How about a powerglide looking case with a centrifugal clutch inside, maybe 4000RPM stall. That should fly!!!!! I'm tuned in and anxiously watching.
Gary
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Man Steve this is going to be a cool build. I need to get going on my engine they have been setting over the summer.
This is looking good.
NICE!
Thanks Doc!
The V8 with the blower has been sitting a few summers. Thats why I want to get it going.
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Steve, That's going to be really cool. Have you come up with a transmission idea? How about a powerglide looking case with a centrifugal clutch inside, maybe 4000RPM stall. That should fly!!!!! I'm tuned in and anxiously watching.
Gary
Hello Gary!
I was going to look into a lenko style trans but that is miles down the road. There are also 3 speed automatics in RC cars so i was thinking about trying to figure out how they work and adapt or build one.
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I do not know how the model 3 speed automatic transmissions work, but I do know how Husquarna made theirs on their MotoX bikes and that is simple.
An automatic clutch like model cars, drive the input shaft and all the gears stay in position - they are not moved like a convectional box. All the gears on the output shaft are mounted on one-way bearings. First gear in just a cog on the one-way bearing, second and higher gears are in fact centrifugal clutches with harder and harder springs - so when the rpm is high enough on the output shaft the second gear clutch engages and it now drives the output shaft (first gear now freewheels on the one-way bearing). When the rpm of the output shaft rises far enough and the even stiffer springs of the third gear clutch are overcome, the clutch of third engages and now both first and second gear freewheels on their one-way bearings.
I have attached the repair manual for the transmission.
Best wishes
Per
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Thanks for posting that Admiral. I don't know if i can find clutch bearings that small but it's worth a shot.
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Steve,
I hate to be the last one to join the parade, but managed to miss the previous posts. Sounds like a cool project.
Art
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I was going to look into a lenko style trans but that is miles down the road. There are also 3 speed automatics in RC cars so i was thinking about trying to figure out how they work and adapt or build one.
Steal the planetary gearset out of an old air ratchet and you got the hard part of a thm400 all done
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Well I finally got a start today. Got all the previously made parts soldered together. I also made the rear frame rails and soldered them in. I considered those pieces the hardest of the project. It took a few hours to get them bent, massaged in so the lay over the stands perfectly level, and trimmed to length so they could be soldered in. The only thing in the photos that is not attached are the long back bars. I have to figure out how i'm going to hold the long pieces at wild angles so I can mill the half moons into them so they will mate up for solder.
Anyhow, heres where im at.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1837s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1839s.jpg~original)
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Steve,
I hate to be the last one to join the parade
Art
Last one in, first in our hearts!!
Hows it going Art! Will I see you in Zanesville in a few months?
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Steve,
Speaking for the great unwashed novice solderers, love to see how you solder those joints.
Keep up the good work.
Mosey
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Steve,
Speaking for the great unwashed novice solderers, love to see how you solder those joints.
Keep up the good work.
Mosey
I can take some pix next time I work on it. Is there something perticular you wanted clarified? They are simple butt joints like this. I don't have sound so I don't know what he is saying but i do the same thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4bUd8tl7-Y
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Steve,
That tells it all, thanks.
Mosey
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Man that is starting to look awesome Steve. Your going to make the whole frame out of brass? Brass is my favorite to work with and gives a project some appeal. Nice going bud and still following your progress.
:popcorn:
Don
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Hey Steve,
You might want to consider powder coating that frame when your done.....I know someone.... 8)
Dave
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Hey Steve,
You might want to consider powder coating that frame when your done.....I know someone.... 8)
Dave
Yes Don, all brass. in theory brass is lighter and more resistant to bending.
You know Steamer, I was just thinking the same thing this morning. I was worried how the coating would fill the tiny holes that will be in it. If I have to re-drill them will it crack the power coat? I guess the best thing to do is to finish it up and take it somewhere and see what they say.
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I'll show the picture to a buddy of mine who works at a powder coat place and get back to you.
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Neat project Steve,
My guess is that if you are using soft solder your chassis will fall apart in the curing oven. I had a local shop run a fan guard through the oven that I had made for one of my hot air fans. It had been assembled with Stay-Brite 430f solder; it fell apart.
It got painted with automotive paint after I put it back together.
Dave
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Thanks Steamer!
Hey Mosey! Here is the blow by blow in the event that the other video lacked anything. I don't have sound so I don't know what was said.
First thing I did was cut my tube to length. Then I used an endmill the same size as the tube (.312) and ran it into the end half the diameter (.156) to dress the top end.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1848s.jpg~original)
Then I but the dressed end into position and hold the other end so I can find the finished angle.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1843s.jpg~original)
Then the tube is held in the vise at the correct angle.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1845s.jpg~original)
The second end is dressed with a ball mill.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1847s.jpg~original)
The piece is cleaned and fluxed on both end and inserted into position.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1856s.jpg~original)
Then the heat is applied with a torch and I use plumbing solder that melts somewhere between 400 - 500 F. I would have to go look for the exact heat.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1864s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1867s.jpg~original)
I got a total of 5 more pieces in today. I am surprised at how long it takes to cut, dress, position, square, level, and solder in a piece.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1873s.jpg~original)
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Steve,
Thanks!!
Mosey :thinking:
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Steve,
As long as it can take 420 degrees F for 20 minutes....My friend can powder coat the frame.
Dave
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:o soft solder won't take that.
Jo
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YUP....soft solder won't do....needs to be silver solder......
Dave
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Then the heat is applied with a torch and I use plumbing solder that melts somewhere between 400 - 500 F. I would have to go look for the exact heat.
I wouldn't risk it :hellno:.
Jo
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Honestly...parts are cut, fixtured ....disassemble, wipe clean and scuff....and silver solder...even a 800 f Low temp silver bearing........
Dave
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That's looking awesome :praise2: I did a bit of that stuff a few years ago in full size :old:
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Steve,
As long as it can take 420 degrees F for 20 minutes....My friend can powder coat the frame.
Dave
Thanks Dave but Mr. Otto's suspicions were correct. I just checked and the melting point is 430 degrees. I will most likely just spray it with paint when ready.
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OK
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Little more progress for the day. Roof hoop is on and the windshield is framed in.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1875s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1876s.jpg~original)
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Are you going to paint the frame with auto paint? Acrylic enamel is nice even if not powder coat. A lot of cars never heard of powder coat.
It Will be nice I'm sure if you do it.
Mosey
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Satin black seems to be the popular scheme. I was thinking about flat black or satin black. Not sure yet. Won't be yellow or white but i'm open to other colors.
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My Buddy had the frame of his Pro-Mod Camaro painted dark metallic blue it looks real nice.
Dave
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My Buddy had the frame of his Pro-Mod Camaro painted dark metallic blue it looks real nice.
Dave
What do you think gun metal gray would look like.
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Steve I am with Dave on this one. Blue is my favorite but Satin Black also sounds good.
:popcornsmall:
Don
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Steve,
If it was mine I would copper plate it then nickel plate it for BLING!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Mark
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gun metal gray would look great! I would check out all the colors on CAD.
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I think the satin black would give a nicer contrast to all the machined aluminium parts, the gunmetal may get a bit lost.
J
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I think the satin black would give a nicer contrast to all the machined aluminium parts, the gunmetal may get a bit lost.
J
There wont be many machined aluminum parts. Almost everything will be brass (painted) with the exception of the front of the rear end and the rims. Maybe the blue flack will be cool. Who knows, I have some time.
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A few more pieces today. The kickers in the firewall, 2 horizontal pieces where the seats will go and the start of the drivers compartment.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1884s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1882s.jpg~original)
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Hi Steve
Its really starting to look like a race car now, nice work!
Will you add front and rear motor plates like the pros use or a more traditional motor mount?
Dave
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Will you add front and rear motor plates like the pros use or a more traditional motor mount?
It's going to be plates. Not sure exactly but plates front and back.
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Nice progress Steve...its really looking good and I'm still following the progress.
Bill
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8)
:popcorn:
Don
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Steve,
Not to be a wet blanket, but I have had some experience with the new tire compounds they have out for RC racing. They have come very far in the past 30 years. I fear that if you get the powertrain set up correctly, your gonna turn the back half of that cage into a K&S pretzel. :old:
It WILL be glorious, however, and you will still have the jig built to retry in steel. :naughty:
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Steve,
Not to be a wet blanket, but I have had some experience with the new tire compounds they have out for RC racing. They have come very far in the past 30 years. I fear that if you get the powertrain set up correctly, your gonna turn the back half of that cage into a K&S pretzel. :old:
It WILL be glorious, however, and you will still have the jig built to retry in steel. :naughty:
It should be good and strong. I used McMaster Carr .032 wall tubing instead of the K&S .014 wall tubing.
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Got the door bars in and 2 more pieces of the driver helmet cage. I think that wraps up the 5/16 tubing. There are 8 or so .281 diameter tubes to go in. I'll get started on that this weekend.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1888s.jpg~original)
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Steve, I just stopped in to say I'm watching. Really fascinating stuff and it looks great.
--TIm
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Steve, I just stopped in to say I'm watching. Really fascinating stuff and it looks great.
Same here. Really fascinating.
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Beautiful work, Steve, but you've put the driver on the wrong side :D
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Beautiful work, Steve, but you've put the driver on the wrong side :D
:lolb: Awesome!
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Thanks for all the positive comments!
I had a hectic day but did manage to get all the .281 diameter tubes cut and installed. There was a total of 10 I think. Mostly in the hoop behind the seat but 2 are over the top of the driver cage and one was way out in the front of the engine. Now I have to move on to the .250 diameter tube.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1892s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1894s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1896s.jpg~original)
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Hi Steve,
Very nice work. I like the fixture. Hope to see the frame and maybe the fixture at Zanesville, next month.
Regards,
Chuck
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Hi Steve,
Very nice work. I like the fixture. Hope to see the frame and maybe the fixture at Zanesville, next month.
Regards,
Chuck
Should have it there. I am hoping to have the chassis completed and maybe get a start on the rearend.
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Incredible work, Steve!!! You certainly have my attention.---Brian
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Incredible work, Steve!!! You certainly have my attention.---Brian
Thanks Brian. Being a hot rod guy I thought you might get a kick out of it.
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Well thats it for this project for the weekend. I am out of tubing. I ordered a pile to get going but had not finished the design so this is how it goes. I'll get some ordered up and get going by Wednesday.
The back half is complete. The cross bracing is done as well as the ties from the frame to the back bars. I also added a bar across the back bars at the point where they are tied to the frame rails. Just didn't look right without it. The cross braces are also done at the bottom corners of the main hoop (behind the driver seat).
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1900s.jpg~original)
I also have the cross bracing done in the center section of the frame rails. The bar under the driver cage, "kidney bar" is also completed.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1904s.jpg~original)
This is just a shot to see what it looks like with the motor in it. Your welcome. Haahahahahaha!!! :lolb:
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1906s.jpg~original)
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Hi Steve, it looks perfect. Great Job.
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Steve,
Amazing progress, and no I will not make it to Zanesville. That's our anniversary weekend and we have other plans. I guess it will have to be NAMES
Art
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Tubing came today!
Managed to get the driver cage done. Also the driver side floor and door cross bracing.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1910s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1911s.jpg~original)
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Steve I just have one question. How your going to fit in that? LOL............ man she's looking like a hot rod already and your not messing around either. I like................. :praise2:
:popcorn:
Don
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Don,
He's going to eat those cookies from Alice in Wonderland and get in.
Mosey
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Don,
He's going to eat those cookies from Alice in Wonderland and get in.
Mosey
If your betting on me to eat cookies, go with the oreo double stuff or the chunky, chips ahoy!
I'm hungry, gotta go!
-
More progress today. The chassis tubing is complete from the fire wall back. I am still trying to get answers about the placement of the engine and fine details like that. When I know, you guys will know. I'll be going into design mode for a bit and then more progress.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1914s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1913s.jpg~original)
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Awesome!! I have no other word than Awesome. Great progress Steve.
Tim
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Hi Steve
Have not had the Internet for a month or so and have totally missed all the new projects.
As usual you rock Buddy :NotWorthy:
Pete
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Awesome!! I have no other word than Awesome. Great progress Steve.
Tim
Thanks Tim! It's about to get better.
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Hi Steve
Have not had the Internet for a month or so and have totally missed all the new projects.
As usual you rock Buddy :NotWorthy:
Pete
Pete! How the heck are you man! Really miss the V8 postings. Do you see yourself getting back to business or do you still need some time to regroup?
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Hi Steve
I'm still not happy with my machine and bench layout and need to make a another Bench to replace the one I left at the old place but it wont be long now, I'm starting to run out of excuses :lolb:
A lot of the hard work is done and its just about getting to the right place mentally :cheers:
Pete
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Well i'm about as far as I can go. I need to get the motor mounted and then I can put in the last four tubes. I have ordered the 16 gauge plate to make the plates and when that comes, i'll get back to it.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1918s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1920s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1923s.jpg~original)
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Hello everybody. Just a little update on the car. I had to work Saturday and a few hours today but i did manage to get the motor mounts done. I will need to redo the little gusset tubes in the front but I wasn't completely happy with them anyway so this will force me to remake them.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1925s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1928s.jpg~original)
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Still looks amazing Steve!! Would love to be able to come to Zanesville and see it in person but work doesn't allow it this year.
Bill
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Still looks amazing Steve!! Would love to be able to come to Zanesville and see it in person but work doesn't allow it this year.
Bill
My work has no choice. I will not miss Zanesville or NAMES. I'll work anytime they want me too except those 2 weekends.
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My work has no choice. I will not miss Zanesville or NAMES. I'll work anytime they want me too except those 2 weekends.
Thats one way to get out of anniversary gifts. :)
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Well the motor mount system is complete. The rear of the engine is done just like the big boys do it. What they do is bend up a hoop and then weld the plate to the tubing. I got the location of the engine and the centerline of the crankshaft from the chassis designer so it is within a 1/16th of where it would be in a real car. Now I will insert some tubing between the engine mount hoop and the dash tube to lock it in.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1936s.jpg~original)
The front mount I did on my own. I just took a piece of the next largest tubing and soldered it to the plate to create a place to put a screw.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1939s.jpg~original)
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8)
Don
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Great work Steve! What are you using as the basis of the chassis design? Are you just scaling some photos down or do you have a good layout to work off of?
Looking really good!
John
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Steve, I haven't said much, but I've been following along, admiring your work here. This is just fantastic!
Kim
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Cool. I like the rear engine mounting bracket.
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Cooler & cooler!
Mosey :cheers:
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Looking great :praise2: :praise2:
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Great work Steve! What are you using as the basis of the chassis design? Are you just scaling some photos down or do you have a good layout to work off of?
Looking really good!
John
I purchased the plans from S&W Race cars and then scaled the plans down to 1/5th. I changed the tubing in the floor just a little and then added 3 pieces where I thought there should be one. Other than that, they are true to S&W design. The plans only cover the tubing so I had to do the 4 link and wheelie bar on my own as well as the motor mount.
http://www.swracecars.com/
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Thanks Steve! I think you nailed it! I know it's a ways away, but what are your plans for the body? Maybe 3D printing?
John
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Thanks Steve! I think you nailed it! I know it's a ways away, but what are your plans for the body? Maybe 3D printing?
John
Thats what I'm thinking. I am trying to get my hands on a 3D model of a 69 chevelle but so far no luck.
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Steve,
That car is looking mighty fine.
Art
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Know someone with a Faro Steve?.....
http://www.faro.com/en-us/home
By a Revell 1/24th kit and scan the body and make a point cloud...and you'll have the 3D model.
Dave
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Know someone with a Faro Steve?.....
http://www.faro.com/en-us/home
By a Revell 1/24th kit and scan the body and make a point cloud...and you'll have the 3D model.
Dave
Last time I was in Auburn Hills they were throwing one away. Thought about wheeling it out to my truck..... ;D
Come to think of it, I do know a guy with a Faro around here, ill make some inquiries. Tis looking very good Steve, red metals are so much fun to work with. :)
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We've got one at work, but I need to tread carefully regarding "G" jobs....
I'll make some "inquiries" Dave
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Know someone with a Faro Steve?.....
http://www.faro.com/en-us/home
By a Revell 1/24th kit and scan the body and make a point cloud...and you'll have the 3D model.
Dave
Never heard of it. Looks cool.
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We've got one at work, but I need to tread carefully regarding "G" jobs....
I'll make some "inquiries" Dave
Dave, Lakc, thanks for taking the time to ask.
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Steve,
I was going to suggest adding a digitizing probe to your CNC mill to digitize a model. You use Mach3 I believe? It appears there is a digitizing wizard for Mach3.
--Tim
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Thanks Tim. I might look into that. Resolution would have to be good as im going to scale up from a model.
I laid out all my brackets using the awesome CamBam. The mill drilled out the plate and then cut out all my pieces. These parts are made with 1/4 inch plate on a real car. I found 16 gauge brass at .051 thick. Close enough in my book.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/Untitled-1.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1943s.jpg)
The 4 link brackets are installed. I guess the next step will be to get the rearend housing done and then get the rear suspension sorted out.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1947s.jpg)
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What material was under the 16 ga. brass and how was the brass held?
--Tim
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More amazing parts Steve. How long did it take to cut all those out ?
Bill
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What material was under the 16 ga. brass and how was the brass held?
--Tim
Corian.
I had the CNC drill holes in the corian before screwing the plate down. Then when the drilling was done the holes were tapped and the individual pieces were held down with screws. Then the original screws were removed and the parts were cut out..
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More amazing parts Steve. How long did it take to cut all those out ?
Bill
The program ran for 1:15 but if you figure in making the fixture and pre-drilling for the screws and tapping them it was probably right around 2 hours.
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Not bad at all Steve...just imagine the time it would have taken to do all of those manually!!
Bill
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8) :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Not bad at all Steve...just imagine the time it would have taken to do all of those manually!!
Bill
Yeah! Would have been faster to build a CNC mill.
Working on the housing for the rearend. Might start cutting this weekend.
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This thread started while I was traveling, but just caught up today. Heck of a project! :ThumbsUp:
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Steve,
Are you going build a 5 speed transmission also? (I gotta see this!)
Mosey :naughty: :naughty:
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What year Chevelle Steve?
Dave
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http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3dmodels.aspx?download=chevelle
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What year Chevelle Steve?
Dave
1969 SS
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http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3dmodels.aspx?download=chevelle
Thanks. They dont have my year but if all else fails that 70 might work just fine
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Let me know what you want to do...the next step would be to find an appropriate model...... 8)
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Let me know what you want to do...the next step would be to find an appropriate model...... 8)
I'm going to hold off for now Dave.
I still have a dozen or so tubes to install. Then I have to make the rearend, trans, suspension, brakes, wheelie bar, shocks, ect, ect. I have a million things to do but I will get there.
I have installed 4 more tubes today. I have 2 more to install and the base chassis will be done. Then I need to do the "extra" tubing like beefing up the motor mount. I figure I have less than a dozen tubes and I will be done with tubing. As of right now I have about 42 feet of tubing sitting on the fixture.
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I hit the first milestone of the project today. All of the tubing work is done on the chassis. I have put 53 feet of material into it. 43 foot 5/16, 9 foot of 1/4, 1 foot of 3/16, and one foot of 7/32 tubing so far. I still need to attach brackets and stuff like shock mounts and A-arm mounts, stuff like that.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1952s.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1954s.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1956s.jpg)
Here is what we call at work the bone pile. there are a million little 1/4 inch pieces laying around that I didn't gather up but not a whole lot wasted i thought.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1970s.jpg)
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Tim had some questions on the CNC stuff last time so I took more pictures this time.
On the manual mill I drilled 10 holes in the 2-1/2 X 8 inch piece of brass. Then using the same fixture plate I used the CNC to drill the same 10 holes in the corian. I used a battery powered drill to tap the holes to 4-40. Then the metal was bolted down with 6 4-40's around the edges. I used a 1/4 inch bit to rough out the center of the bar.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1958s.jpg)
Then I used a 1/8 inch cutter to finish profiling the pocket. I also inserted the other 4 screws to hold the centers of the piece to keep them in place while cutting them out. If I don't they will most likely get sucked into the cutter and snap it off.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1959s.jpg)
The hole pattern was spotted and drilled.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1962s.jpg)
The centers were cut out and the slug never moved. Nice!
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1963s.jpg)
Then the ends were trimmed up using the same cutter.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1966s.jpg)
And the outside profile was cut down .015 from breaking through. That was done because the pieces were not secured.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1968s.jpg)
I took the bar off the fixture and over to the band saw where the parts were cut off the bar. Only having .015 to cut through made it nice and easy. Over to the grinder to grind the flash off and a little bit of filing and sanding to clean up the edges.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1971s.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1972s.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1973s.jpg)
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I'm in lust ;D
Beautiful work, Steve!
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Steve, looking great. I love that you use corian as fixtures as well. I have a friend who has a cabinet shop and get cut offs from him. Keep up the great work
Dave
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Thanks everyone. I went out to do some stuff today and screwed up 3 times in 9 minutes. I then put everything down, turned off the lights and came in. When I have a day like that i think it's best to just wait until things are going better. Last friday I went out for an hour and a half. I made 2 pieces less than 1-1/2 inches long and ruined about a foot and a half of tube. Saturday I picked up where I left off and everything went great. Used the bent up stuff for some shorter pieces and everything went real good. Maybe tomorrow will be like that.
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As I hoped, yesterday was a better day. I made the endcaps for the rear end housing. They are just a simple block of brass with a milled square the correct size to fit the square in the end of the 2 halves. There is a hole that will accept the axle tube. After soldering them in, there was a ton of sanding, filing, and rubbing. It wouldn't be so bad but it doesn't take much to heat up the part so hot you cant hold it so there are a lot of coffee brakes.
The axle tube hole goes almost through but I left an area in there at 1/2 inch and inserted a rod to help align the caps and eventually the axle tubes.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1977s.jpg)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1975s.jpg)
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Brass stock 2.250 X 2.500 and .625 thick. 1/8 ball nose because my 12 dollar Ebay spindle motor overheats if I go bigger. The stock is held down with 2 screws that go thru the corian and into the back of the stock. The piece is cut in one setup with one tool so the mill never shut off. I still have to fixture the piece and clean out the back side to clear for the ring gear.
10 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1978s.jpg~original)
20 Minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1979s.jpg~original)
30 Minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1980s.jpg~original)
40 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1981s.jpg~original)
50 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1982s.jpg~original)
60 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1983s.jpg~original)
70 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1984s.jpg~original)
80 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1985s.jpg~original)
90 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1986s.jpg~original)
100 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1987s.jpg~original)
110 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1988s.jpg~original)
120 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1989s.jpg~original)
130 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1990s.jpg~original)
2 hours and 20 minutes later.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1991s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1993s.jpg~original)
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How time flys! That's great Steve, as is the rest of this thread. Hugh.
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Cool Steve! 8)
-
Very impressive Steve and a nice result in the end too!
Bill
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That's nice Steve!
Is that a CamBam tool path? I was thinking that CamBam only did 2d.
Will be interesting to see how you fixture the part and hollow out the back side?
Dave
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Thanks everyone.
Dave, yes it is Cambam. Cambam is 2.5D which means it can produce 3D shapes using 2 axis at a time. The rough cuts were done with a waterline operation. Z axis is set and the X,Y axis profile the piece at that elevation. Then the Z is dropped a specific dimension and repeat. It will also do a horizontal or vertical pass. I did the vertical because it worked better with the shape of the part. As the tool traveled down the Y axis, Z rises and falls to profile the part. Then the tool is moved along X and the tool turns around and back down Y it goes. Only 2 axis move at one time. To get a good finish I only step over .005 at a time on the vertical. The tool marks will be easy to remove with that small a step over.
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Thanks for the "timelapse" sequence, so by the time the inside has been hollowed out you will be looking at 4hrs plus probably more than a two part fabrication that could have been turned on the lathe but we all have our prefered methods and use what we have to hand
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Ah, but billet work is just so nice! Well done Steve ;D
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Thanks for the "timelapse" sequence, so by the time the inside has been hollowed out you will be looking at 4hrs plus probably more than a two part fabrication that could have been turned on the lathe but we all have our prefered methods and use what we have to hand
It's not round
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Fixture is just a shallow ridge with a pocket to clear the rest of the cover. I lined it with sharpie because it was too hard to see in the picture. 4 holes were drilled and tapped 4-40. The holes in the stock were the 2 used to hold down the piece for the front.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1995s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1996s.jpg~original)
10 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1997s.jpg~original)
20 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1998s.jpg~original)
30 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN1999s.jpg~original)
40 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2000s.jpg~original)
50 minutes
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2001s.jpg~original)
57 minutes. You can see at the top where I cut on the flange for the finish cuts. Must have got a chip between the part and the fixture. Need to clean better before mounting the part up.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2002s.jpg~original)
I few minutes on the polishing wheel and the machine marks are gone. The wheel is an 8 inch X 3/4 wide scotch brite pad. I have all the parts made. Now I am waiting for my heim joints to come and I can start making the rods for the 4 link and assemble the rearend housing with the brackets spaced properly.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2007s.jpg~original)
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Nice work Steve!
Thanks for the info on the tool paths.
Dave
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I have finished up the spool. I decided on the spool instead of the spider gear setup based on the nature of the build. The spool would be the choice of any drag racer. The axles are 90 percent. I just need to mill a square on the end to fit into the square in the end of the spool.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2010s.jpg~original)
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Niiiiiice!
Mosey
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Saaaweeeeeeeeet!
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Steve,
That is simply amazing. Although I'm not feeling so bad now about the cooling fins on my Upshur single taking 2 hours 43 minutes. Using a long reach 1/16" carbide 4flute, .015 a pass. What are you using for a fixture and glue? Ive seen Terry glue things, maybe that shouldn't make me nervous with the seeming lack of rigidity.
Art
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I dont use glue. Just the four screws in the corners.
-
Still following along Steve, and impressed as always!!
Bill
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With a show coming this weekend the fine folks at RC4WD rushed over some Heim joints and rod ends. Because of there great service I was able to get the rearend housing mounted for the weekend. I haven't had a chance to clean it up and won't until I get there but I figured I would post a few pix anyway. The housing is sandblasted. After a little cleaning and blasting it will be ready for some paint.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2013s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2012s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2011s.jpg~original)
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Oh yea! that is sweet..................... :ThumbsUp:
8)
Don
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Magnificent :praise2: :praise2:
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Damn Bubba, that's sasweeeeeeeeeet 8). Just finished a 1:1 scale 9" resto and this one looks just as good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: (really better) they weren't meant to be pretty in '66.
Cletus
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Damn Bubba, that's sasweeeeeeeeeet 8). Just finished a 1:1 scale 9" resto and this one looks just as good :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: (really better) they weren't meant to be pretty in '66.
Cletus
Thanks guy's. That's it until after Zanesville.
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Enjoy the show Steve. I expect your chevelle to be the center of attention and deserving of it too!!
Bill
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Well all my time has been spent getting ready for the coming winter. Between coats of paint I started carving out a set of brake rotors. When I got home from work today i drilled the 420 holes in them and finished them up.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2017s.jpg~original)
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Those are beautiful Steve. I am assuming you did the drilling on the CNC...either way its still a LOT of holes :)
Bill
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Those are beautiful Steve. I am assuming you did the drilling on the CNC...either way its still a LOT of holes :)
Bill
Yes I used CNC. To spot and drill it took just under 14 minutes a piece.
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Steve, I meant to ask earlier...what drill size are the ventilation holes and what RPM did you use. They really do look the part...amazing!!
Bill
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Steve, I meant to ask earlier...what drill size are the ventilation holes and what RPM did you use. They really do look the part...amazing!!
Bill
The disks are 2-1/4 diameter. The lug holes are .116 (4-40) and the vent holes are 1/16.
-
:praise2: :praise2:
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Just a quick report. I made the brackets that the calipers will bolt to. They also retain the axle shaft to keep the axle from falling out.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2029s.jpg~original)
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Still looks amazing Steve!! Nice to see an update on this project.
Bill
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As ever great looking machining, but I am a little confused (also as ever :-\ ) about some of the details. These brackets look to be designed for twin callipers, but in the background there appears to be an axle with two brake discs (I'm of English origin ;) ). Are the callipers offset or is the axle with one brake disc just conveniently standing on another brake disc?
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As ever great looking machining, but I am a little confused (also as ever :-\ ) about some of the details. These brackets look to be designed for twin callipers, but in the background there appears to be an axle with two brake discs (I'm of English origin ;) ). Are the callipers offset or is the axle with one brake disc just conveniently standing on another brake disc?
one brake disc just conveniently standing on another brake disc. There will be one disk per axle with 2 calipers per disk.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2032s.jpg~original)
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Steve
I have got to say it is amazing what a person can do and in the scale at the same time. How you use the metal to do what you want is just brilliance. I enjoyed the 396 build and that has always been my first love in cars. It was the first car I drove and it scared the h*ll out of me at 14 years old. My cousin came home from Vietnam and bought a brand new 1969 Chevelle SS 396. Loved that old car.
There is one other car build that I have been following now for years (mid 2010). I hope I do not slow your progress down any, other would hate me, but here is the mans build of a 1956-7 Lincoln Mark II. Take a look what he has done in 1:12 scale.
http://forums.aaca.org/f190/construction-continental-mark-ii-model-scale-278354.html
Forgive me
Nelson
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Not much but it's progress.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2054s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2055s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2058s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2060s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2061s.jpg~original)
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Oh that is cute Steve even though you haven't made great progress. I like................. :praise2:
Don
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Hi Steve, these are fantastic and very realistic details. Once started in the world of CNC , there is so much to discover and things are getting possible you never start thinking about before. I like it and it will push me to use my little CNC Mill quite often.
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Thanks guys. I have been a little distracted with something I have been trying to get done for NAMES. Once NAMES is over I should be able to get back to biz on this one.
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Finally had a chance to get something done. Made the wheelie bars They are an exact copy of some bars i found on the web.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2230s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN22312.jpg~original)
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Looking good Steve!!! :ThumbsUp:
Dave
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Hello Steve
Wow, what an incredible masterpiece in three dimensional sculpture. It's an anatomy lesson of a drag racer.
Even at 1/5 scale, it's gonna be big.
Mike :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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Steamer and Cletus want to see blown big block tire smoke :stir: :lolb: :cheers:
Cletus
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Very nice :praise2: :praise2:
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Steamer and Cletus want to see blown big block tire smoke :stir: :lolb: :cheers:
Cletus
That makes 3 of us!!!
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Glad to see you getting some shop time Steve. Incredible work as always!!
Bill
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Hi Steve, fantastic work as always.
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Steve I was hoping you would get back to this one. It's such a fantastic project. Looking good buddy...... :praise2:
Don
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Thanks!
Did some work on the center section of the rearend. Also finished and fitted the axle shafts. Hope to finish the center section next weekend. I'll get some pictures up when i'm done.
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Steamer and Cletus want to see blown big block tire smoke :stir: :lolb: :cheers:
Cletus
Ya damn skippy we do!!!
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Difficult to watch.
Want.
Fantastic project. :ThumbsUp:
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Center section is almost complete. I still need to drill and tap the drain hole for the gear lube and make a drain plug. If I can get the gear cutting nailed down I might be able to make a ring and pinion set. Next up will be the rear shocks.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2234s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2235s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2232s.jpg~original)
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That cover plate is incredible!
:popcorn:
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Very impressive, as always.
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That is some splendid carving :praise2: :praise2: :praise2: :wine1:
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Hi Steve,
That's better than the sculptures in our art gallery!
Like the others hanging out for the first video!
Cheers Kerrin
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Hello Steve,
May I congratulate you on a truly outstanding piece of 3D machining.
When you have the self belief and the courage to try the seemingly impossible, miracles like this can happen.
How much time went into that piece? How many pounds of small chips did you make?
It looks to me like you used a very small ball ended mill to cut a series of equally spaced vertical profiles in both the X and Y axis. Was that from a STL file?
We all would like to learn more about how you machine these pieces.
Cheers
Mike
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Hello Vixen!
There were 6 programs in all. First the bearing caps were made. The top of the caps were drilled and profiled to a little over sized with a 2D program and a 1/8 endmill
Then the top of the cap was milled with a 2.5D program using a 3/32 ball nose endmill.
Then a 2D program using a 1/8 endmill milled a small flat and drilled mounting holes for the caps and paused. The caps were installed and the program continued until the caps and all the flat work were done on the rear.
The caps wrer then removed and a 3/32 ball mill made the 2.5D passes to contour the gear pocket and slope the bearing cap mounts.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2235s_1.jpg~original)
A fixture was made and the part was then rotated to the front and all the 2.5D work was done with a 1/8 inch ball nose cutter
Then with a 2D program the part was drilled and the recess for the pinion gear was completed with a 1/8 end mill
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2234s_1.jpg~original)
The 2 programs for the bearing cap were cut and pasted together to make a single program as were the front and back to make 3 seperate Gcode files.
The bearing caps were 1/2 hour, Rear was 2-1/2 hours, and the front was 2-1/2 hours. Total time was about 6 hours including time for tool changes, tapping holes to mount caps, Ect.
All the code was created using CamBam and a combination of DXF files and a STL file for the 2.5D
The cross bore through the caps to mount the ring gear was drilled and bored manually.
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Steve,
Thanks for the insight into your machining process. I think we should post more of this stuff to help others step into the CNC world.
I thought you were into a full 3D machining software package. It very satisfying to stitch together several 2D and 2.5D programs to achieve the same result.
Do you test run on foam or plastic first, or have you leaned to trust the computer simulation?
Cheers
Mike
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I don't do any simulation or foam cutting. I used to when first starting out but saw very early on how much time was added on to a single part. About the only code I have looked at more than twice would be my spark plug insulator code. Because I planned on making 50 to start out with, and saw myself using it in the future, i manually tweaked out most of the rapids and made it cut both ways. Played around with it until it went from 8 minutes each to just over 3 minutes each. On a one off part it makes no sense to spend 20 minutes editing code to save 5 minutes cut time. Sure I have had a few thing go differently than I was hoping for but I wouldn't trade the few hours it took to remake those few parts for the hundreds of hours I have saved not simulating any day.
I have refrained from showing setups and processes when I use CNC because over the years, based on many of the replies given to CNC'd parts, Most don't consider CNC "real machining". For that reason mostly I just show the finished parts and we all live happily ever after. If someone such as yourself asks a specific question then I am only more than happy to explain what I did and do my best to answer that/those questions.
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Steve,
We're out here silently watching in admiration. Don't need to bug you with accolades, just keep truckin, man, we love it!
Mosey :ThumbsUp:
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Steve
Thanks for that. I agree, there is little to be gained from editing a one run program to make it more efficient. Like wise, I do not cut foam before the real thing either. My CAM program does a reasonable job of illustrating the tool path and traps most of the stupid moves. I still sit with my chin on my hands watching the part materialise from the solid, with my finger ready to hit the pause button if things behave too unexpectedly.
I think the attitude to CNC is slowly changing as more folk are giving it a try. Lets not debate whether CNC is 'real machining' or not. My machine shop is totally committed to CNC, the only control knob is the door knob. My view is that CNC is not there to make things easy, but it does make very complex shapes possible in the home workshop. Your diff housing is a perfect example.
Cheers
Mike
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I used to think CNC allows parts to be made which couldn't be done on a manual machine. Since then I've seen many here, Geoge Britnell comes to mind, that seem to cut anything imaginable manually.
I for one would appreciate some insight to CNC code and its development. An in depth analysis may be tedious but a general sketch would be very helpful to me. A paragraph or two maybe explaining where you use 2D, when you use STL, etc. For me that's particularly true since you are using CamBam. I think resistance to CNC is lessening. There are now a good number of us on the list.
A general sketch of "how to" would allow me to ask specific questions. Without an overall view the only intelligent question would be "how did you do that".
Thanks for posting your build. I'm amazed with the tubing work and silver soldering as well as the CNC. I'll keep following along.
Thanks.
Hugh
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CNC is more than hitting the green cycle start button regardless of how simple or complex the part may be. Another skill set that requires planning and fixturing like manual machining, but making things work " hands off. " I like the addition to my other skills.
Very nice work on the differential !! :ThumbsUp:
Brian
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Well i found myself with a day off from work so i made a pair of rear shocks. They are basically just like an RC shock except all brass instead of plastic. I couldn't find springs close enough to size so I wound a pair to the OD and length I needed. They were assembled and soldered together. I modeled them after the adjustable coil over drag racing shocks.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/DSCN2237s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/DSCN2238s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/DSCN2240s.jpg~original)
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More incredible work Steve! So nice to see each new update.
Bill
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Great looking shock absorbers! Do the pistons fit close enough to actually give some dampening action?
:popcorn:
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Steve,
Wow, this is great work! You are the man.
Mosey
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Great looking shock absorbers! Do the pistons fit close enough to actually give some dampening action?
:popcorn:
Even with the .001 fit they do not dampen at all nor do rc shocks. They will need to be oil filled to have any dampening.
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Bubba, absolutely shocking work :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Cletus
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Amazing as always !! :ThumbsUp:
Brian
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Steve,
Good to see all the work on the Chevelle. Those shock's look like the one's on the back of my R90S. I'm with everyone on the cnc bit. I for one am very quick to admit that my skills in math or as a machinist don't extend to the type of work George B. does. If I had to build my stuff on a manual setup I would be doing much simpler stuff. It is a different thought process to do the same job. I use Geomagic and Sprutcam and as I discovered on my Val head you have to poke around to find a way to get it to do something the way I think it should.
I'd settle for some small block tire smoke, for my 2 cent's worth. :lolb:
Art
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Hi Steve, I'm just catching up on this incredible project, and I'm totally hooked. Amazing work. Thanks for all the detailed build pics. Regards Terry :praise2:
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Steve awesome results bud and you know ......I..........like............ :Love:
Don
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Thanks everyone!
I'll be back to it soon. Trying to make foot peg mount brackets for a 56 Triumph TR5/R. My pal is restoring one and only 103 bikes were made so parts are non-existent.
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A little update on the car.
I couldn't make heads or tails of the gears as far as the exact placements of the cuts with the custom cutters. I fully understand the article and what is supposed to happen but the numbers didn't seem to work so i freakin winded it. I patched as much of the article together with the 3D cad and drew up the gears and eyeballed the shape of the teeth and did my own thing. After a few hours of adding a little here and taking off a little there I had a set of gears that were ready to "test". My pal was going to print the gears in ABS and pass them off to me to try. Couple days before I was ready his printer died. I really needed them printed on a "good" printer with good resolution. So I searched the web and found a place that could print ABS. Come to find out the set in ABS on a really good printer costs about 75 bucks plus shipping. After further snooping on the website i found they could 3D print in steel so I had to see what that would cost. 42 bucks in steel plus shipping so guess what I did. Well they are not that bad other than a bit of a rough finish but I figure I could run them in with a little diamond paste. They don't take kindly to drilling and threading. My mounting holes were printed into the part .005 under and I had to drill to size. Drill bit got hot real fast but it worked. Tap is still pissed at me but it did take a thread. Obviously not as nice as machined gears but cheap in my opinion. I still have an interference issue that I think some button head screws will clear up but other than that everything fit as planned.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2243s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2242s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2244s_1.jpg~original)
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Steve,
42 dollars for laser sintering in steel sounds like a mighty cost effective work around. Good thinking Batman
Good luck with the bedding in process. If both the ring gear and pinion are that hard, the diamond paste should grind and not get embedded into the steel.
Can you shim the position of the pinion and adjust it 'in' as the bedding-in progresses
Mike
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Steve,
I must say that differential looks fantastic!
Art
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Steve,
42 dollars for laser sintering in steel sounds like a mighty cost effective work around. Good thinking Batman
Good luck with the bedding in process. If both the ring gear and pinion are that hard, the diamond paste should grind and not get embedded into the steel.
Can you shim the position of the pinion and adjust it 'in' as the bedding-in progresses
Mike
Thanks Art!
Mike, the gears run pretty well together now. I will use the compound to "polish" the mating surfaces to get that nice smooth feel of machined gears. I was shocked how well the work as is.
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What a bargain Steve, and they look very nice from the pictures. I am guessing that the laser sintering process kind of hardens the metal as the print progresses, thus the hardness issues. Wonderful looking differential though in any case!! :ThumbsUp:
Bill
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Nice looking set of gears. I wonder if there is any way of annealing the sintered material without it all reverting to a pile of powder.
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Laser sintering welds the metal powder into a 95% solid piece of metal, it is not 'glued' together. Normal heat treatments and machining operations can be carried out afterwards.
As Steve says, the pieces were delivered in a hard condition, it has just been welded (sintered) together with no further heat treatment applied.
Mike
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Hi Steve, thanks for showing and reporting about you gear experiment here. Good to know that it works and was positive.
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Hi Steve,
Great looking gears. I'm guessing from the pictures you're going with just the spool hub and no spiders. For a scale model it might have a lot of drag if you try to make it turn to any extent.
gbritnell
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Hi Steve,
Great looking gears. I'm guessing from the pictures you're going with just the spool hub and no spiders. For a scale model it might have a lot of drag if you try to make it turn to any extent.
gbritnell
Yes George It is a spool. Thats what was in my Chevy so that's what she gets. I did do the drawings for the spiders and could do it with off the shelf gears but it just wouldn't fit in with the theme of a blown drag car.
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Hi Steve,
Great looking gears. I'm guessing from the pictures you're going with just the spool hub and no spiders. For a scale model it might have a lot of drag if you try to make it turn to any extent.
gbritnell
May be it should be driven like a go-kart.
Braking, engaging/entering (hopefully the right words for what I mean) and full throttle again.
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Hi Steve,
Great looking gears. I'm guessing from the pictures you're going with just the spool hub and no spiders. For a scale model it might have a lot of drag if you try to make it turn to any extent.
gbritnell
May be it should be driven like a go-kart.
Braking, engaging/entering (hopefully the right words for what I mean) and full throttle again.
That is the idea. The car was built to go as fast as possible in a straight line for 1/4 mile. Anything other than that it wouldn't be very good at.
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Steve, this gets more exciting as you go. I'm dieting so I will be able to drive it when you're done.
Keep up this fabulous build!
Mosey :Love:
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Bubba, that 9" is looking saweeeeet. Now, GeorgeB, don't you find it funny that those Chevy boys have to use a Ford rear to get the power to the ground :stir: :stir: :lolb: :lolb:
Cletus
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Hi Cletus,
The GM 12 bolt was a good rear end but just not as strong as the 9" Ford. They both have their strengths and weaknesses. One of the nice things with a 9" is that they are really easy to service. Although most of the originals have all been used up they make reproductions for drag racing and street use.
gbritnell
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Put the final touches on the rear end. The center section was completed by cutting a clearance on the bottom so the mounting hardware could be inserted through the holes. The oil fill plug was drilled and tapped. The yoke was cross drilled so the Ujoint can be mounted. The entire thing was assembled complete for the first time. I also had a chance to make the front rims and the centers for the rear rims. I have 100 stainless screws on the way to assemble them.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2248s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2249s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2251s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2255s_1.jpg~original)
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Hi Steve,
It just gets better & better !
Cheers Kerrin
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Wow, Steve! I'm not a real car guy, so haven't posted much on your thread, but I have been following along. I just have to say, this is fantastic!
Kim
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Everything looks fantastic Steve!
The front wheels also turned out very nice; I'm curious what you are using for tires? Is this an off the shelf product for the 1/4 scale crowd?
Dave
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Everything looks fantastic Steve!
The front wheels also turned out very nice; I'm curious what you are using for tires? Is this an off the shelf product for the 1/4 scale crowd?
Dave
You guessed it. They are scale Drag tires. They were perfect as they scale out to a 28 inch tire.
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Steve,
Those wheels look great. So are those rims 3 piece? Waitin on the smoke from the burnout :mischief:
Art
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Steve,
Those wheels look great. So are those rims 3 piece? Waitin on the smoke from the burnout :mischief:
Art
2 piece Art. Rim and Center. Almost had to make a small tire machine to get them on.
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Another weeks worth!
I have finished the front struts. I still need to make the mounts for the top so stay tuned on that. Started on the pieces Saturday so there is 5 days, a couple hours a day. Need to sort out the top mount and make the hub so I can get the front wheels mounted.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2257s_1.jpg~original)
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Beautiful parts Steve!
Dave
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Steve everything is looking just awesome bud. Are you going to RC control this baby when done?
Don
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Are you going to RC control this baby when done?
NO!
Even if I did I doubt it would ever get used that way. I'm already paranoid about damage when she is out of the garage and at the show. The idea behind the chassis was to be a fancy/cool display. I really didn't want another wooden box. I never intended to have a rearend, shocks, rims, Etc. Somewhere I lost control of the project, I don't know what the heck happened!
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I don't see where you lost control bud, doing it like it is suppose to be is heading the right direction for me. Excellent work on all counts as far as I'm concern and ........I.........like.......... :Love:
Don
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Are you going to RC control this baby when done?
NO!
Amazing work, beautiful. For shows it would be cool to mount the vehicle on a scale dynomometer. You could show off all the working parts without letting it truly loose. I agree, too much work and beauty to let "loose". That is, if you're not tired by the time the vehicle is rolling and working.
Nice to follow along, thanks.
Hugh
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Every time I look at this amazing build, I feel that my own work resembles that picture of the caveman setting in front of his cave, laboriously chipping away at a stone wheel. You do amazing work.---Brian
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Not much I can add to the comments already posted....just fabulous work Steve!! Great pictures too.
Bill
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Well I finally have wheels on the front. I finished up the heim joints on the A arms and made the hubs. The brakes are bolted on for the first time and the tire is mounted. I am going to make a wheel spacer tomorrow to give a little more room between the rim and calipers.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2263s_1.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/V8Demon/DSCN2267s_1.jpg~original)
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She's definely looking the the part and those wheels are setting it off nicely. I am starting to drewl looking at it. Beautiful work Steve....... :praise2:
Don
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She's definely looking the the part and those wheels are setting it off nicely. I am starting to drewl looking at it. Beautiful work Steve....... :praise2:
Don
Thanks Don! Just need to make some rear rims and she will be a roller.
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Yeah!
Mosey likes.
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Well gentlemen, here's where I'm at on the little Chevy. The show is this weekend in Zanesville Ohio. If you can get there here is what you will see. I ran out of time and could not finish the rear wheels. I still need to make the bead locks.
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2271s.jpg~original)
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx349/stevehuckss396/One%20Fifth%20scale%20Chevelle/DSCN2269s.jpg~original)
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That is looking terrific!
When you get to that point, will it have a body on it? Pounded out of sheet metal, milled out of a billet (!), a clear plastic one?
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That is looking terrific!
When you get to that point, will it have a body on it? Pounded out of sheet metal, milled out of a billet (!), a clear plastic one?
As of right now no. I was going to have a die cast chevelle scanned into an STL file for 3D printing but I got the "we don't want to be bothered" price of $700USD.
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That is awesome Steve. One of these years I will be able to come up to that show. I always hear such good things about it from Doug Kelley. Have a great show, I am sure your Chevelle will be a huge hit!!
Bill
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Damm Steve now you got me foaming at the mouth. That is awesome buddy.....
Don
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It looks fantastic as is - it will look fantastic painted too :NotWorthy:
Regarding bodywork and the fact that you're good with CNC - how about making a wood die and vacuum form plastic ...?...
The difficult thing is the die and the best would be a negative die, but a positive die will work too. There are many who shows how easy you can heat the plastic uniformly and vacuum form it on the net and Youtube.
A transparent bodywork could be an idea too.
Best wishes
Per
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That looks awesome Steve!!!!!
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It looks fantastic as is - it will look fantastic painted too :NotWorthy:
Regarding bodywork and the fact that you're good with CNC - how about making a wood die and vacuum form plastic ...?...
The difficult thing is the die and the best would be a negative die, but a positive die will work too. There are many who shows how easy you can heat the plastic uniformly and vacuum form it on the net and Youtube.
A transparent bodywork could be an idea too.
Best wishes
Per
Cant machine a die without an STL file. Without it I cant do squat.
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That looks awesome Steve!!!!!
Thanks buddy!
Rolling out for Zanesville in the morning.
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Steve, try these guys to do your scan for you (http://www.thomasdudley.co.uk/). We visited them last year about a casting project, and they have all the scanning kit - they couldn't have been more helpful.
Good luck,
Dave
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Have a great show this weekend Steve. Hope to see some pictures of the event too of course.
Bill
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Cant machine a die without an STL file. Without it I cant do squat.
Sorry Steve - my dyslexic side didn't read the post about paying for the stl file correctly, maybe this is useful :
http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/download.aspx?3dmodel=23754 (http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/download.aspx?3dmodel=23754)
There are quite a number of free stl models on the net from different sources of different quality.
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Is there any update on this? Its an awesome project! Id love to build a model of my series land rover one day
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Is there any update on this? Its an awesome project! Id love to build a model of my series land rover one day
Not at the moment. I'm working on a V4 project that I committed to back in 2014. When finished I will get back to it.
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Very nice Steve .I guess we will both be needing a track . Glad you picked this forum to post on .Good Luck on your project .
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Very nice Steve .I guess we will both be needing a track . Glad you picked this forum to post on .Good Luck on your project .
Thanks Dale. I have been watching the kozo build. I don't post much as I don't know much about the locos but I do like seeing them go together.