Author Topic: Sticking Engine M2  (Read 16878 times)

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #15 on: November 29, 2012, 06:22:22 PM »
 :facepalm2: That happens Geoff - Hang in there; persistence pays  :ThumbsUp:

Just a thought - from your last photos your port holes seem to be rather far apart off the center line axis in relation to the port hole sizes on the frame for a wobbler type engine...  How did you calculate/determine their positions and hole diameters ?

Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #16 on: November 29, 2012, 10:07:21 PM »
Arnold thanks for your interest. Almost all my knowledge comes Stan Bray's books from my town library. He ilustrates a gauge to mark the ports, basicaly a strip of metal with 4 holes. First one to fit the pivot pin, ether side of this the ports (measured from the cylinder). Then a hole to fit the crank pin,( I cut a slot here.) Put the gauge on the pivot and with the crank at 90deg, mark the ports. put on port face of cylinder aline with con-rod , mark ports.  The closer the crank shaft is to the cylinder the wider the distance between the ports. This is important in this design was the steam passages have to pass ether side of the hole for the pivot pin. The ports are 1.7mm seamed to work on my other engine.  Geoff
« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 10:16:29 PM by hammer »

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2012, 04:39:51 PM »
Almost finished, put groves in the pistons. This is suppose to stop some of the bypassing steam. I have my doubts about that. Used studs on end caps ( told it was the correct way) but the 10BA nuts are a pain to get no. Had to make a box spanner see below. Much easier to put screws in a hole. Just the cylinder clamps to complete. The bit and pieces are in photo.  Geoff

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2012, 02:10:17 PM »
Finished just going to run it on air, but had a bang on the floor from the kitchen, lunch is served.  Geoff

Offline derekwarner

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #19 on: December 05, 2012, 05:34:44 AM »
Absolutely amazing  :ChineseBow:....a mate of mine from Paddleducks is building an engine that is virtually identical down to the smallest detail  :lolb: ..........he is from the UK two......but he has a different name ..or is it  :hammerbash: on my part ...Derek  :cheers:
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Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #20 on: December 05, 2012, 10:32:46 AM »
Looking forward to a video of it running Geoff.  :ThumbsUp:
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #21 on: December 05, 2012, 04:05:40 PM »
DEREK, who is this person :headscratch: stealing my ideas.  :noidea: If I find them I will SUE.  :paranoia:
ZEE, I will like to see it as well.  :whoohoo: Geoff

Offline Alan Haisley

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2012, 04:50:24 PM »
Used studs on end caps ( told it was the correct way) but the 10BA nuts are a pain to get no. Had to make a box spanner see below. Much easier to put screws in a hole.
Since this is a "working engine" rather than a model, I don't see where studs and nuts are an advantage over screws. If it were a model, even of something that never existed in 1:1 scale, the nuts would be needed for appearance..
Of course if you use nuts on studs you can use a torque wrench to control evenness of pressure (requires one to first make a working model of a miniature torque wrench.)
Alan

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #23 on: December 12, 2012, 09:52:46 AM »
Arnold was right the ports are to small, deliberate!! I will have to drill them larger now.  No problem.
Alan, I wish I had used bolts. The only up side is I cut 1/2" and am left with 3/16", ideal for use on the paddle wheels.
The delay caused by a Holiday. Geoff

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2012, 08:05:35 PM »
Zee now you can see, just a short clip.  Stops and starts OK just needs bedding in now. Drilled ports 2.1mm.
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bF6oH9bNWA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bF6oH9bNWA</a>:shrug: When I sort youtube.Geoff
« Last Edit: December 14, 2012, 10:15:10 AM by hammer »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2012, 11:13:56 PM »
Another tease on the forum!  :cussing:

Sorry Geoff. The video comes up as 'not available'.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline Don1966

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2012, 11:40:50 PM »
Hi Geoff, still watching with interest. I could not pull the video up either.

Don

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #27 on: December 14, 2012, 10:22:31 AM »
Sorry about the link, but it is working now.  :cartwheel: Not long but it proves it runs. The compressor scared me.
 Can't read my own writting had a 6 insted of a b.   :facepalm2: Geoff
   <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bF6oH9bNWA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bF6oH9bNWA</a>
« Last Edit: December 14, 2012, 10:31:15 AM by hammer »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #28 on: December 14, 2012, 10:50:24 AM »
Looks good Geoff! Glad you got the video posted.

What does that rod that goes over the cylinders do?
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline hammer

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Re: Sticking Engine M2
« Reply #29 on: December 14, 2012, 11:33:05 AM »
Carl, there is another rod below both spring loded holding the cylinders against the frame. I have taken a photo which is better than words. Also in the picture is a home made box spanner to cure the problem of getting the 10BA nuts on and off. Geoff
« Last Edit: December 14, 2012, 11:55:51 AM by hammer »

 

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