Elmer's 43 "Build" Questions

[Bear]

Thanks, Jo. I do have 4 flute cutters; but, I generally use 2 flutes for aluminum. I should have changed it out. However, the finishes on the edges came out okay. On the other hand, the fly cutter did wonderfully on the faces.

[mklotz]

I used to dun Zee with the advice to "never remove a part from parent stock until it's absolutely necessary".  This should be printed on each page of the paper you use to write out a machining sequence for your part before cutting any metal.

On another note, you may have fun doing something I did when building this engine.  Mill another steam chest cover out of transparent plastic.  It can be thicker than the brass cover if you can't find 1/16 sheet.

Use the plastic cover when running on compressed air so your audience can observe the motion of the valve; it makes explaining the operation of the engine much easier.  Replace the plastic cover with the brass one when you want to run on steam.

[Bear]

Thanks, Marv.

[Flyboy Jim]

I used to dun Zee with the advice to "never remove a part from parent stock until it's absolutely necessary".  This should be printed on each page of the paper you use to write out a machining sequence for your part before cutting any metal.

On another note, you may have fun doing something I did when building this engine.  Mill another steam chest cover out of transparent plastic.  It can be thicker than the brass cover if you can't find 1/16 sheet.

Use the plastic cover when running on compressed air so your audience can observe the motion of the valve; it makes explaining the operation of the engine much easier.  Replace the plastic cover with the brass one when you want to run on steam.

Bear,

Marv gave me this same advice...........which I followed. The plastic cover really shows off the valve action.............fun!

I also follow his advice about leaving a part on parent stock as long as possible.

Jim

[Bear]

Jim, it is tempting to use the plastic see through cover. Yes, I will heed the advice on the length of the stock.

[Bear]

Finished the Steam Chest cover, and the Valve Plate. Now I need to figure out the best way to line up the Cover and Valve Plate holes with the top of the cylinder so they line up exactly. Don't have a transfer punch small enough (guess I could make one), and the cylinder is tall than my vise jaws. Suggestions welcome.

[crueby]

If I understand correctly, the holes are drilled to clearance size on the covers, and you need matching tap size holes in the cylinder? What I would do is clamp the cover in place and use it as a drill guide. Put the clearance size drill in the chuck, cylinder in the vise, and adjust the table till the drill lines up with the hole. Power on, and lower the drill enough to start the hole, but don't go in deep. Then you can swap to the tap size drill and finish drilling, the spit left by the first drill will keep it from skating.

[Bear]

You are correct, Crueby, that the current holes are clearance holes for what will be tapped holes in the Cylinder top.

Thanks. Good idea; but, I can't figure out how to clamp it and at the same time use the vise. Maybe, i should just clamp the plate on top the Cylinder directly to the mill table with no vise??

[crueby]

That would work, and if the clamp blocks a hole just drill and tap the others, run in bolts to hold cap aligned for drilling the last one. One thing I have done a few times is clamp parts with a parallel clamp or two, and clamp the flat of the parallel clamp in the mill vise. Lots of creative ways, as long as it stays steady with the pressure of the drill.

[Bear]

Thanks, Crueby.

[mklotz]

Next time try this technique...

Super glue the undrilled cover to the cylinder.  Drill TAP-SIZED holes through cover and to depth in the cylinder.  Remove cover by heating.  Remove any glue residue with acetone.  Open up cover holes to clearance size on drill press or whatever.  Tap the holes in the cylinder.

You may want to make some inconspicuous witness mark on the inside of the cover so it can be replaced in the orientation in which is was drilled.
You know, just in case the holes aren't exactly symmetrically placed.

Obviously, this procedure works anywhere a feature must be attached with screws to some structure.

[Bear]

Thanks, Marv. I was thinking of still using super glue, and then lining up the already drilled holes in the method described by crueby. I plan on figuring it out today, and getting er' done.

[Jo]

Might be worth putting a mark on the inside of the cover so you know which way round it fits best 

Jo

[Bear]

Thanks. Good idea, Jo. I did mark the outsides with a marker for doing the center cut outs in the valve plate; but, I will put something more permanent on the inside. I think that in a much earlier post, I referenced that the cut-outs and holes in the top of the cylinder were not properly centered. So, when I made the valve plate, I made the cut outs off centered to the same extent of the cylinder top. Of course, this will require consistent alignment for the screw holes.

[Bear]

Well, I got it set up in the mill. It sure helps to brainstorm on this forum. I think the set-up will work. Off to lunch and then to tackle it.