C-612 Horizontal Steam Engine

[Roger B]

That was neat solution to facing the end of the baseplate     

[Jo]

Thank you Roger 


The cylinder was squared up in a vice and the top skimmed. Having checked the spare material I decided it was safe to centre on the cylinder casting and drill for the four studs and the ends of the steam ports (the swarf always reminds me of the mole hills on my lawn  ). then the ports can be milled. The sizes are 4mm wide and 8mm wide with 6.35mm spacing, these measurements were chosen based on the port sizes on my Stuart No 5 and the size of the valve casting that comes with this engine.

The steam chest first had its based skimmed flat before turning over and having the top skimmed. Because of the boss on the end of the steam chest the positioning of the studs had to be laid out from the top, this is not ideal as the drill may wander and be slightly out of line at the bottom  Thankfully that did not happen.

Mounting the steam chest on the cylinder you can see that the ports are not central, this is consistent with the steam chest casting being slightly ticker at the bottom on that edge and it will need to be taken to account when the inside of the steam chest is cleaned up.

I started on the cover but then found it has hard corners  I'll leave that for another day 

Jo

[Jo]

Time to fit the covers on the end of the cylinders.

Having looked around for a suitable centre for my rotary table I realised that the inner cover has a 25.4mm flange on the end which is the right size for one of my rotary tables. This was clamped down and while I was at it the six holes drilled before I clamped the cylinder onto the cover to mill around the outer edge of the cylinder. This diameter has to come down to the cylinder cover outside diameter minus the thickness of the cladding, as I am using 0.5mm cladding it needed to be 62.5mm diameter.

Initially I have taken the ends of the steam chest down by 1.5mm on either end of the cylinder but having bolted the cylinder arrangement together possibly this may need to be a bit more The top of the base still needs shaping up to match the cylinder covers on one side its a bit close and needs that layer of paint to line up 

I always feel things are moving forward when the cylinder mounts on the base 

Jo

[Jo]

I've knocked up a piston and threaded a piece of 6.35mm stainless for the rod. The original GA shows the piston tapped at the 6.35mm, I chose to tap it 2BA and add a nut to lock it into place.

Two of the mountings on the inner cover are countersunk screws the other four are studs. The two screws go either side where the base sides are. I have also knocked up the six studs for the top cover.

Putting these all together with the piston rod in place means you can check the alignment of the cylinder and the crank pin 

Jo

[Jasonb]

It's coming together nicely.

Are you just going for smooth cleading or will you do the recessed lengthways grooves like you see on a lot of american engines?

Also I wonder what the bump was for

[Jo]

Thanks Jason 

At the moment I am planning on smooth cleading as I have not seen metal casings with length ways grooves unless it is covered with the brown stuff.


No idea on what the bump is for, it is only half a bump and there is not enough space for a screw. Maybe it is there to help clamp the casting down while machining 

Edit: It seems to be on this one as well

Jo

[Jasonb]

Yes, certainly looks like it was meant to be there rather than a fault in the casting. Would have thought they would just have put a small lug like the ones for screwing it to a base if it were for clamping so easily removed. Wrong side of the crank to act as location for anything like a pump. etc.

This is the type of cylinder Cleading that you often see on American engines and I think Anthony may have used it on his bottle engine.







J

[Mike Bondarczuk]

Lovely progress Jo and well on your way to another super build  .

Mike

[Jo]

Thank you Mike 

This is the type of cylinder Cleading that you often see on American engines and I think Anthony may have used it on his bottle engine.

As this is a rare engine I was looking to produce one that matched the original one Coles had in the catalogue. Although I am not sure about leaving it with no valve rod guide 

Edit: I feel I should also mention that I don't like the look of cleading like that as it spoils the lines of the engine: So I won't be doing it to  any of my engines in the future 

Jo

[Jasonb]

looks like it might just be me doing some of that type a cleading then

You may get away without a rod guide, the screwed gland is quite long like you often find on oscillating engine for the piston so will help guide the rod. If you also clean up the inside of the chest and get the valve a good sliding fit that will help support the rod against vertical deflection, horizontal you are not so worried about and less likely to get anyway. It's not as though it will get a lot of running once complete so long term wear is not an issue.

[Jo]

looks like it might just be me doing some of that type a cleading then

Yes. Thankfully we all like different things or else the world would be a very bland place 

The latest on the material for my crankshaft is that with next day delivery I am still waiting for it to be delivered a week later Yesterday the delivery company claimed I was not in at 18:55 which is a load of  as I have not left the house for 7 weeks. How are we supposed to make engines when the delivery companies lie about trying to deliver things. The next attempt will be in five days time   

Jo

[Jasonb]

That's the problem with collecting castings, you have no stocks of barstock

And what you do have has that brown coating that grinds away bearings

Can't you just turn a bit of something larger down?

[Jo]

you have no stocks of barstock

You seem to have forgotten something this is just a couple of the drawers/shelves of come-in-handiums.

Can't you just turn a bit of something larger down?

The crankshaft is a 200mm long piece of 12.7mm stainless and I needed some more stock so I have 1m coming    I could just use that piece of silver steel I have been using   

Jo

[MJM460]

Hi Jo, with a stock store like that at ? Euro per kilo?  You could sell it all and retire on the proceeds. 

But then, what would you do with all you spare time in your retirement?

On second thoughts I am just envious of the materials you have when you need a bit for something.  Strange how there is still always the particular bit you need, which is not in the store.

MJM460

[Jo]

On second thoughts I am just envious of the materials you have when you need a bit for something.  Strange how there is still always the particular bit you need, which is not in the store.

The second best thing my ex-husband gave me with was the bulk of my material stores, which has subsequently been added to by a number of friends donating extras  As a consequently I rarely have to buy any materials, the exception being castings. You know how it goes: see one, want one, buy some 

I've just found that length of 12.7mm stainless I was using to line up the base casting with the crank pin  So it looks like I won't have to wait.

Jo