Chinese 7x 8x 9x Lathe Opinions

[Kim]

Hi Bear,
I am a Taig owner so will give you that perspective.  There are several Sherline owners on the forum who can comment from that perspective.

In my view, the Taig tools and the Sherline tools are quite comparable.  They are both well made machines that will provide accurate results.  You will get similar performance from either one.

But let me focus on what I perceive the differences to be:

Finish:  Both are finished well, but the Sherline has the edge here.  Most of their accessories come anodized or painted.  Where as Taig, it is often just bare metal.  So the Sherline tools and accessories look a little prettier. I believe often come with a glossy instruction sheets, where as with the Taig, you get the item with no instructions or a photocopied piece of paper.  Doesn't take away from the usability, but as I said, the Sherline just has a nicer finish about it.

Price: This is where you also see the difference - With the Sherline, you pay a little more (or a lot, sometimes) for the tools and the accessories.  So that nicer finish comes at a cost.  The Taig tools and accessories are less expensive.

Rigidity:  On the lathe, I think they are about the same, but the mill, I'd give Taig the edge here.  I believe it to be slightly more rigid than the Sherline mill.

Accessories:  The Sherline has the edge here.  Sherline has many more accessories available for their tools than Taig does.  Though Taig does have quite a few.  However, many of the Sherline accessories can be used with the Taig tools. Most notably, the Rotary Table - Sherline has a very nice Rotary Table, and you can use that on the Taig mill quite nicely.  This is true with many (though probably not all) accessories.  For example, the spindle has the same threads, so you can use the chucks from Sherline on the Taig and vice versa.

Thread cutting:  Neither the Sherline or the Taig can single point threads, out of the box.  However, Sherline does sell an accessory kit that allows you to modify the lathe to cut single point threads.  You have to do it manually (it comes with a hand wheel to turn the spindle).  There is no accessory available for the Taig for thread cutting, and I don't believe the Sherline thread cutting accessory will work with the Taig lathe.  But there are several examples on line of people who have developed tools for their Taig that allow them to cut single point threads.

Again, let me stress that while I think this is a balanced view, it is mine, and I am a Taig owner.

I don't think you would go wrong with either manufacture.
Kim

[Bear]

Thank's, Kim for the detailed post. As far as finish is concerned, not an issue for me. I do like the price line of the Taig. I am actually thinking of also getting a used inexpensive Chinese 7x lathe for roughing and threading, and then fine tuning some parts that need strict tolerances (unless of course, I can make the 7x lathe hold tight tolerances) on the Taig or Sherline.

One of the things I am researching is the capacities of Taig and Sherline sized lathes insofar as the size of model engines. In other words, what would be the optimum maximum size of an engine that can be done accurately and efficiently on these small lathes. I am thinking I would like to make engines where the cylinder is no more that 1.5" in od diameter (probably closer to 1" od), whatever corresponding length for the cylinder, and flywheels of the appropriate size.

[zeeprogrammer]

I recently bought a Sherline lathe and mill. Too new for me to comment on.

If you're not aware, Sherline may have significant promo codes available. I got 20% off my entire order.
I don't know about Taig.

The promo code I used is "livesteamma2020" (without quotes). I suspect this one is only good to end of month.
It was found in a Live Steam magazine.

[crueby]

I recently bought a Sherline lathe and mill. Too new for me to comment on.

If you're not aware, Sherline may have significant promo codes available. I got 20% off my entire order.
I don't know about Taig.

The promo code I used is "livesteamma2020" (without quotes). I suspect this one is only good to end of month.
It was found in a Live Steam magazine.

Its Its  through april, likely will have another code in next issue again for may and june.


You had mentioned about the carriage handwheel at the end of the lathe. All depends what you are accustomed to, I have used that for so long that having it below the carriage would be odd for me. As for seeing a lathe in person, are there any MakerSpace places or something like that near you that may have ones to see? Local schools maybe. Whereabouts are you? Ask sherline or taig, they may be able to refer you to someone, local dealers even. It does really help to see a machine in person.

[Bear]

Thank's, Zee and crueby. No dealers or makerspace near me.

[rspringer]

I have both lathes.  The hand wheel at the end does tend to lock the carriage.  Handy for face , cutoff and a reference.   The wheel on the saddle is handy for longer cuts.  To each his own.

[bpudney]

Sorry to join in so late, I've been busy on other stuff.  I've had a Seig C3 (7" x 14") for about 15 years, and have made seven compression ignition (a.k.a. "diesels") on it.  It has been good out of the box, but in that time there have been a few issues.  The only time I actually broke it was when taking an aggressive interrupted cut and the plastic gears in the headstock lost a tooth.  The opportunity was taken to upgrade the spindle bearings to taper rollers whilst it was all apart.  It doesn't take too long if you plan ahead.  The other mods which have been made are....Tapered gibs for the carriage, a cover for the carriage handwheel gears.  That's pretty much it.  Apart from the plastic headstock gear issue, all the other mods were not done out of any failing of the lathe, more an improvement to it.  Especially the tapered gibs. 

Because I like to use a lot of tools there have been two goes at a quick change toolpost.  The toolpost that came with the machine, Siegs version of a QCTP was about the only aspect of the machine that I didn't like, it wasn't very rigid.  So first off was a post and clamp on type (a.k.a. "Norman") which was excellent, and a great improvement.  Then when space was becoming an issue the "OXA" 250-000 wedge type toolholder became available, I got one.  There are now approaching 30 toolholders, about half I made myself the other half purchased.  Ninety five percent of the time the OXA is fine, excellent in fact, but it's not QUITE as rigid as my post and clamp on one.

Knowing what I now know if I was to start again would I buy another one???  Yes absolutely, but if I could afford it I would get an SC3-400 or even better an SC4 - 510.  The only thing that I actively dislike is the choice of black for the chip tray and splashback.  Stupid light sucking colour, I have painted both parts white, it made a vast improvement.

Best of luck!!
cheers
Bill

[Bear]

Thank's, rspringer and Bill.

[Bear]

I am now seriously leaning toward the Taig. Any one aware of any promo codes for Taig?

[Kim]

If you order from Nick Carter at Carter Tools (http://www.cartertools.com/) you get 10% off list price of everything.

That's the best deal I've seen for Taig.  And it's true regardless of how much or how little you order.  Nick's a good guy.  He'll give you straight info on things and won't try and sell you on things you don't need.  You can order straight off the web page or call him and get his input on things.  He's used all the tools and can give you good help.  He'd probably have good input on what spindle type would best suit what you want to do, and how much you want to spend.  (No connection with Nick other than I've order from  him in the past and have found him incredibly helpful - so take this for what its worth).

Kim

[Bear]

Thank's, Kim.

One of the things I am currently researching, before taking the plunge, is the Taig is capable of accurate and efficient cutting of larger diameter steel stock such as 1.25" or bore out 1" in a cylinder? Or, could one efficiently and accurately turn a steel flywheel 2" to 3"?

Some guidance would be great. Most of my research has revealed that one can turn "small parts". Problem is there is no set definition for what constitutes a "small part".

[Kim]

Yes you can certainly turn those part.  I've done it, as have many others, on both Taig and Sherline equipment.  As for 'efficiently'?  Not sure turning steel on a little lathe like this would every be called efficient   It can be done, but it will be slow going.  You're just not going to be taking off much metal in a single pass with these small machines.

Just make sure the 'small part' you want to turn will fit in the envelope of the lathe.  For the Taig, the specs say:

Max. turning dia. 4.5 in. (extendable to 6.5 in.)
Swing over cross slide 2.375 in.
Distance between centers 9.75 in. (with tailstock).

So a 3" fly wheel could be turned if you use a tool that will cantilever out in front of the cross slide.  Otherwise your maximum diameter would be 2 3/8".  I think you could put the riser on the head stock and turn a larger part over the cross slide. But you lose some rigidity with that.  I can be done, but I'd probably go with the first solution if I could.

Kim

[Flyboy Jim]

Here's a 5 1/4" flywheel from my P & W build mounted on my Sherline lathe using the Headstock Riser block.





Jim

[Bear]

Kim, thank's for the detailed response. It is what i was hoping to hear.

Jim, thank's for showing what it can do.

[Bear]

  I think I got lucky today. I found a very lightly used Taig lathe just about 4 miles from me. Guy said it was only used about 2-3 times and it looked it. Not only did it come with the standard 3 jaw chuck, it also included a 4 jaw chuck that looks like it has never been used. Came with 6 tool posts, a "top slide mount" kind of like a compound slide, tail stock, drill chuck, dial indicator with magnetic base, a few center drills, and a few tool bits.

Already played with it a little this evening. Nothing too serious. Tomorrow will be more time. 

Thank you all for the help.