Author Topic: Paddleduck build from Bogstandard’s plans (Read 3384 times)

Taff Oliver · « **on:** January 17, 2020, 11:03:45 PM »

Started this build about a month ago, learning as I go along. I have took very few pictures so far. Up to now made the complete crank section, eccentrics and straps, block and glands and the crosshead supports.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2020, 11:14:08 PM »

Here are a few more pictures of some of the parts, I must remember to take more as I go along.

propforward · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2020, 11:27:05 PM »

That's excellent - from those pictures I would say you are learning quickly and doing very well indeed.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2020, 11:33:09 PM »

Well thanks, I am not completely new to cobbling stuff together, been working on crushing and asphalt plants for 30 year so done a lot of bodging in my time........ haha

cnr6400 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 18, 2020, 12:40:37 AM »

Looking good Taff!

Flyboy Jim · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2020, 03:19:51 AM »

This is going to be an interesting build thread Taff. Please keep it coming.

Jim

crueby · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2020, 03:27:20 AM »

Great to see this build, that is an engine that I saw and wanted to build early in my machining learning, but never got to. I think I have the plans and build log from Bogstandard in a folder somewhere still...

derekwarner · « **Reply #7 on:** January 18, 2020, 08:04:24 AM »

John Moore....better known as bogstandard ....a true inspiration to many budding machinists and steam model makers

A unique personality....a witty dry sense of humour....difficult to break the egg

, but once there, never lost as a true Gentleman.......

He grew up and served his engineering trade in the industrial City of Crewe in the UK

If he is not watching with us, watching down upon us

Derek

b.lindsey · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2020, 02:42:03 PM »

Off to a great start Taff. John certainly gave us all some wonderful designs so its always interesting to see one coming together here.

Bill

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #9 on:** January 18, 2020, 07:08:08 PM »

Thanks for all the comments guys, will try and post more pictures as it comes together...... already snapped an M2 and M3 taps so far, not used to messing with stuff so small, oh and lost a 1.5mm drill bit somewhere on the garage floor......

crueby · « **Reply #10 on:** January 18, 2020, 07:14:44 PM »

If its anything like our shops, that drill bit was stolen from the floor by a shop gnome. Nasty little things, always taking shiny parts, once it in while they will return it in a few days...

mklotz · « **Reply #11 on:** January 18, 2020, 08:00:27 PM »

Puddleduck??

I thought John's engine was called Paddleduck.

crueby · « **Reply #12 on:** January 18, 2020, 08:24:44 PM »

Quote from: mklotz on January 18, 2020, 08:00:27 PM

Puddleduck??

I thought John's engine was called Paddleduck.

It was, named after the Paddleducks engine forum. Often misspelled.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #13 on:** January 18, 2020, 11:29:46 PM »

Well spotted, I have corrected the title......

sbwhart · « **Reply #14 on:** January 19, 2020, 08:21:03 AM »

Quote from: derekwarner on January 18, 2020, 08:04:24 AM

John Moore....better known as bogstandard ....a true inspiration to many budding machinists and steam model makers

A unique personality....a witty dry sense of humour....difficult to break the egg , but once there, never lost as a true Gentleman.......

He grew up and served his engineering trade in the industrial City of Crewe in the UK

If he is not watching with us, watching down upon us

Derek

Johns Still Around but he's not active on line as much now.

Stew

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #15 on:** January 19, 2020, 09:07:53 PM »

Had a little bit of spare time today while the missus was making dinner so decided to start on one of the steam chest blocks, milled a lump of brass to 40x18x16, or within a gnats whisker, marked it up for the 5.5mm hole, centre drilled it then drilled it out to a depth of 36mm. All seemed to go well. I am waiting for a set of reamers then the hole will be reamed to 6mm. Hopefully get the reamers this week, along with M2.5 tap and die.

propforward · « **Reply #16 on:** January 19, 2020, 10:33:50 PM »

Nice work!

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #17 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:11:38 PM »

Its been a while since I have had chance to do anything, the 3 “W’s” have got in the way.... Work, Wife and Waggy tail yappy things. Anyhow, today I carried on where I left off with one of the steam control blocks. I got my hands on s set of reamers so drilled it to 5.5mm and reamed it to 6mm. Drilled loads of holes through it as per plans and was very pleased at the slots I milled in it using a 3mm thingy I found in my fake dremmel box.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #18 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:34:10 PM »

So all going well I marked the block up to mill the cosmetic bit for the top, that went ok too.... I then stuck the valve block to the main block with a dab of Loctite and spotted through for the holes for the 4 holding on studs. Got them drilled and tapped leaving behind 4 holes tapped to M2.5, a little pile of brass dust and an intact tap.... yey..... Last bit today was milling the blanking plate to size and sticking it to the valve block with Loctite ready to drill next time I get chance......

kvom · « **Reply #19 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:37:53 PM »

I built this engine a good while back using John's "crap-o-cad" drawings in 1.5x scale. I converted his metric dimensions to imperial and used imperial fasteners. As I recall, the tricky bit was getting the crosshead guides vertical to the base plate, and the multi-piece crankshaft and split bearing blocks were tedious to get into alignment.

It was my first introduction to piston valves and how they work.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #20 on:** January 26, 2020, 09:58:00 PM »

I basically started on the bottom end first and got all the crank built up and running very freely, made the cross head guides and pistons then bolted it all together, stuck my cordless drill on the shaft end and guess what? It ran ok, was a little tight but nothing major, it was turning at high speed with the drill and I didn’t need to hold it, however I did remove one crank web bolt to turn the head a touch thinner and stripped the thread on the web putting it back in, so it looks like I will have to make another crank web

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #21 on:** January 28, 2020, 08:35:24 PM »

I had a bit of spare time this evening so decided to start on the second steam valve block. I cut a lump of brass down to size ish then milled it to 40 x 18 x 16, nothing too exciting but it had to be done. Tomorrow night I might get round to making it look like a lump of Swiss cheese and fill it with holes........

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #22 on:** January 29, 2020, 08:35:35 PM »

Little bit of progress tonight...... Going to work gets in the way a lot. Drilled all the holes in the valve block and milled the 3mm slots out. Then marked it up for some cosmetic milling....

Baner · « **Reply #23 on:** January 30, 2020, 11:02:08 AM »

It's coming along well, good job!

I built this engine a many years ago, and will echo Kvom's comments: It's a very fiddly engine to setup.

In the case of bearings, cranks, eccentrics and crossheads err on the side of loose fits rather than hoping they will wear in. I remember these parts shifting a little (due to the adjustability) while attempting to wear them in, and having the whole engine lock up, requiring multiple disassemblies to find the culprits

Also it is critical to get super close fits on the steam chest components and the piston valves. The first time I attempted these they leaked like a sieve. The relatively large sealing areas of the steam chest and cover coupled with the minimal fixings make this area a bear to seal. A very fine and flat finish is required, and this area would probably benefit from some sort of liquid sealant.

From memory I think the plans specified a reamed piston valve bore and nominal ground stainless rod for the piston. In my case that fit was not close enough. Instead, I would still ream the bore, but would turn and lap/polish the piston OD to the closest sliding fit possible.

It also might be worth using a bit of Loctite 243 on some of the fasteners and threads to stop them from vibrating loose when running.

Anyway, that was my experience with the engine; I think this was the third or fourth engine I ever made and I learned a great deal from it. Most of what I mentioned above are lessons I took to other engines, and I still use many of John's techniques to this day. So whilst it was a bit of a bugger at the time, looking back it was well worth it.

Dave.

Taff Oliver · « **Reply #24 on:** January 30, 2020, 09:57:08 PM »

Thanks for the advice. The valve pistons are the parts that I think are going to be difficult go make, I wonder how many will end up binned......

News:

Author Topic: Paddleduck build from Bogstandard’s plans (Read 3384 times)