Making your own structural steel - angle iron for models

[Jasonb]

At that size in steel it will be quite a struggle to push a bit of 1/4" square through  a moulding block, I have done it with smaller brass section but would not fancy doing it with steel

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Rzp9IJBjs" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Rzp9IJBjs</a>

[Jo]

Its backing for riveting plate on a tender so won't be seen.

On locomotive tenders, because the angle is submersed in water/left in a high humidity all the time, it is normal practise to use brass angle 

But if it cannot be seen there is nothing stopping you use square and not going to all the trouble of trying to make angle

Jo

[Jasonb]

can't see the point of using brass angle due to corrosion issues if all the sheet work is steel.

You would also need to stagger the rivits on either side of the corner joints as one would pass through the other if just using square bar

[Jo]

Tenders are normally made of brass sheet around the water tank area to prevent rusting.

Jo

[Jasonb]

its for some model plate work on a tender also in steel so steel on steel is preferred

Steel is Ok if you use something like POC 15 or similar to seal it, don't see many traction engine tenders over 2" scale in brass and I've seen quite a few locos with steel too, owners probably like you and too tight to spend out on brass.

[Vixen]

Never heard of a full size traction engine or ploughing engine ever having a brass tender, always steel.

The tender tank on my 2 inch Fowler PE was all steel and protected inside with a coating of 'Galvafroid'

Mike

[Jo]

I was talking models Mike.

Full sized engines have thicker metal to start with so the corrosion is not so much of a problem. As do the larger scale models, but you would be using angle greater than 1/16" thick on those.

Jo

[Mcgyver]

I appreciate all the concern folks, but really looking for milling ideas.  Steel will be fine and I buy it by the coil so have lots, built lots of silos and tanks from it (full size).... and hey, if I ever go cup hunting, using original materials is a good thing  

Jason, that video was the sort thing I'm thinking.  Haven't figured out the feed....maybe some sort rube Goldberg thing hooked up to another machines power feed.....or even block bolted to a slot with a tapped hole and ready rod.  All just cheap talk at this point

[Jasonb]

Couple of examples of steel tenders and tanks on the Big boy and tank loco seen last weekend

https://modelengineeringwebsite.com/London_2020_part_1.html

[PJPickard]

Thanks Chris, good stuff. I was hoping to see one(or more) of your models at Cabin Fever. Maybe next year?

[crueby]

Thanks Chris, good stuff. I was hoping to see one(or more) of your models at Cabin Fever. Maybe next year?

Maybe, no promises! Let me know if you are ever in upstate NY.

[Steamer5]

Mcgyver,

If you check out page 585 of Help with Speedy valve gear & other issues, here’s the link   http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/8680/help-speedy-valve-gear-issues?page=585
you can see how Roger does it. He’s using CNC but you should be able to do it with a standard mill.

Cheers Kerrin

[Mcgyver]

Roger is doing some pretty impressive work!  thanks for the link