Author Topic: solder kozo new shay crankcase  (Read 1568 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #15 on: January 10, 2020, 08:29:37 PM »
Nice!  I'll have to pick up a set. Thanks for the tip!

Offline Domagoj

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #16 on: January 10, 2020, 09:57:33 PM »
Those things look very useful, and we all know you can not have too many clamps.
Do you form the shape of the titanium strips while hot or cold? How many times can you change the shape before the strip breaks?

Offline crueby

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2020, 10:05:19 PM »
The videos on the manufacturer website shows forming while cold with pliers, can also file and saw the tips. They don't say, but sounds like straightening and rebending is not possible, so they come in packs of ten. They do say they come annealed, and you can not reanneal them. The heat of silver soldering does not make them lose springyness, so a clamp can be used many times once formed.

Offline cnr6400

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2020, 12:11:31 AM »
Titanium fingers are commonly used in the conveyors each side of wave soldering machines for printed circuit boards (PCB's). They extend downward on each side and grip the PCB's. They are mounted to a chain conveyor at the top which moves the PCB along toward the molten solder fountain/ wave (not suitable for elf wave boarding or surfing, just FYI) and into the cooling area. In use, the ends of the fingers are immersed for a minute or two in the molten solder every time the conveyor goes around. The fingers don't lose tension or oxidise fast like other metals would. Eventually they do wear out and get tossed though.

You may be able to find Ti strips in the form of these fingers, to make similar strips to the Knew Concepts product, at wave solder machine service places or parts distributors. Oddly there are several such suppliers local to me. (I'm only aware of them from doing some custom tooling design work on such machines in the day job years ago). Anyway only reason I mention this is that I think from such a supplier the Ti strips may be far less expensive and will work just as well. If your timing is good for a visit to such a supplier you might be able to liberate a few fingers from the scrap box for not much money. Just FYI, food for thought.

Offline tghs

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2020, 12:29:58 AM »
I have rebent them several times,, but normally just grab one that has been shaped to meet the job needing to be done..
what the @#&% over

Offline cmitcham

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2020, 06:25:04 AM »
while i wait for better weather for soldering the case, i started on the steam chests. and the questions for chris start... page 16, post 303.

when you chuck in the 4 jaw the second time, you say "Turned the block around, and drilled/tapped a hole in the other end for the oil pipe inlet fitting". the picture certainly looks like you have drilled and tapped a hole. but several pictures later, it has become a boss with external threads, per kozo's print.

what am i missing here???


Offline crueby

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #21 on: January 12, 2020, 03:21:58 PM »
while i wait for better weather for soldering the case, i started on the steam chests. and the questions for chris start... page 16, post 303.

when you chuck in the 4 jaw the second time, you say "Turned the block around, and drilled/tapped a hole in the other end for the oil pipe inlet fitting". the picture certainly looks like you have drilled and tapped a hole. but several pictures later, it has become a boss with external threads, per kozo's print.

what am i missing here???
Went back and took a look (been a few years since that build! ). Then looked at the model close up, and I can tell that the threaded boss is a separate piece - drilled through and threaded the outside of a piece of round bar, then screwed that into the steam chest in the hole that I had drilled/tapped. The threads on the outside disappear into the side of the steam chest, so it had to have been a separate piece, a die would have stopped just shy of the face. In his book it looks like Kozo made those threaded bosses part of the chest piece, I made them separate. Dont remember why, it was probably either so the threads would go in farther, or I goofed and didn't leave material for them!

Can you post some pictures of your progress so far? Love to see them!

Offline cmitcham

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2020, 07:05:38 PM »
many ways... my stock includes the boss length, so i'll go that route.

my progress pretty well summed up by my new year's eve pictures. note there is no picture for 2019. but cable tv is gone now, so biggest impediment is history :)

i started before i found your build, and i wasn't sure the sherlines were capable. another forum suggested i might just build the engine, and that sounded good to me. with zero machining experience, i saw the u-joiint pieces looked easy enough so started there. then of course i decided to jump to the most difficult piece...


Offline crueby

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2020, 08:35:20 PM »
Those parts look great! Quite good for starting with no machining experience, it took me a bunch of engine kits and scratch built ones to work up the nerve to start his Shay, looks like you are picking it up very well. That crankshaft is not a simple thing by any means. The engine alone should be a fun project, and you will have something running to inspire the rest of the build.   :cheers: :cheers:

Offline cmitcham

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2020, 06:37:46 PM »
i have done the lathe work on my first steam chest and cut o-ring dimensions per kozo's dimensions. his o-ring appendix shows the o-ring dimensions he is after. 1.9mm cross section diameter, 1.8mm inner diameter, and 5.6mm outer diameter.

i can't find a viton o-ring with these dimensions with my google searching. before I start the other 2 steam chests with these same dimensions, can anyone help with where I can find this o-ring?

thanks!!

Offline crueby

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #25 on: January 17, 2020, 07:36:39 PM »
I have bought a variety off amazon, but the biggest selection I have found is The O Ring Store, lots of materials, sizes, types. I think the had the viton ones listed as flouro elastomer, FEK, something like that. The have lots of metric sizes. Best bet is to have the rings first, and cut to suit them.

Offline derekwarner

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #26 on: January 17, 2020, 08:57:47 PM »
A standard BS 2-004 o-ring is the actual size you need.......should be a readily stocked size World wide

1.78 ID with a [1.78+1.78] section :ThumbsUp: is very close to your nominated dimensions

People nominate o-ring dimensions and size cavities & commit these dimension sizes to Drawings without necessarily understanding International Manufacturing Standards and sizes, the requirements [or worse, :Doh:  the consequences]

If you needed to choose any additional o-ring from your Table as published, you would find the listed sizes from P3 to P7 are not in accordance with the Japanese Standard JIS B2406

Viton is also known by the chemical compound names of FPM, FKM, Fluoroelastomer and Flurocarbon

Derek
« Last Edit: January 18, 2020, 02:52:04 AM by derekwarner »
Derek Warner - Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op - Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline cmitcham

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Re: solder kozo new shay crankcase
« Reply #27 on: January 18, 2020, 03:50:14 AM »
thanks guys!!!