Author Topic: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine  (Read 44307 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #405 on: February 12, 2020, 09:06:19 PM »
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Today been working on the tie rods that go between the crossmembers. Made up the rods, threaded each end 4-40, then started on the nuts. These are castle nuts, from the photos it and plans it looks like these rods may have served to compress the rods towards each other a bit, to adjust the tension in the crosshead guides?

The diaphragm plate and the bearing main bearing caps fixed the frame rod centers. The tie rods, as you noted, just stop the cross head guides from spreading apart. I don't know that they were intended to pinch the guides together as you needed some operating clearance. Normal practice was to shim between the cross head guide and the cross head supports to get the right distance, not torque up on the tie bolts.

It was not until 1922 and the model 740 that Stanley double nutted the tie bolts (a nut above and below the cross member) so that they stopped the cross head guides from spreading or converging. It helped stiffen up the frame rod assembly slightly. To offset this improvement they started stamping the engine serial number (in addition?) on a frame rod, adding a stress riser. Previously it was just found on the rear cross member, top face.

-Doug
Fascinating how this design evolved over the years! I had seen how they have a ring on the front rods to hold the valve guide from moving on the tie rods, was surprised to see that there was nothing on the others. Sounds like they got around to that later, very interesting.

One other question for the crankshaft area - there are a pair of nuts on each frame rod holding the crankshaft bearing blocks together. But, there is then a spring and another nut. What is that for? Is the 'nut' inside the spring, against the bearings, really a nut, or does that have a clearance hole? Guessing it is part of the mount to the frame?

Thanks so much (again) for helping me learn all this!

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #406 on: February 12, 2020, 09:07:19 PM »
What? Plenty of room!  Why I must measure several inches across on the monitor...  :)

-Doug
Sure, after you took away half the parts and zoomed in!   :ROFL:   Maybe I can just lean down closer to the table...   :lolb:

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #407 on: February 12, 2020, 09:08:46 PM »
I'm seeing a 90degree jig with four rods, 4 turned and drilled parts and a crossmember all soldered together at one time,, or cris will just carve it out of a solid block..
I thought about that first, but the crossmember where it is square is smaller than the four rods, so making that fit would be tough (doable, but tough). So will leave out the jig, and start with a larger square section and mill/file it after soldering.
 :cheers:

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #408 on: February 12, 2020, 09:14:57 PM »
Okay, here is the start of the valve guide:

Started with some 3/8" square bar (said 1/2" in earlier post, that was a brain fart) and laid out the pattern of holes in each side. I milled the right end square first, and used that as an index point against the end of the vise to get the distances. Did some figuring on a scratch pad first (on right of vise) to know how far in to move for each hole, and zeroed the handwheel at the start.

After both sides were drilled, am left with this piece for the square crossmember:

Next I'll turn the round pieces down to size, and can prep everything for silver soldering the joints. The two outer holes will hold the vertical bars, and the outer arc of those holes is the size of the finished crossbar.

Online tghs

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #409 on: February 12, 2020, 09:24:30 PM »
are you going to turn the insert section of the guide fixtures long and then add a sleeve to the back side off the crossmember.. should all align nicely
what the @#&% over

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #410 on: February 12, 2020, 09:30:35 PM »
are you going to turn the insert section of the guide fixtures long and then add a sleeve to the back side off the crossmember.. should all align nicely
The guide tubes will be all one piece going through the crossmember. The crossmember will be trimmed down to size after soldering. Will need some hand filing on those joints. There will be no sleeve inside the tubes, the valve rods will be steel on the guides brass so that is fine.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #411 on: February 12, 2020, 11:17:30 PM »
This should make it clearer which approach I am taking on the valve guide. Sure to be many ways to dismantle this particular feline, this is the way I picked.
Started by turning down the vertical tubes (simple tubes, no features) and then the long side of the horizontal tubes.

Parted them off, flipped around in the chuck, and turned the flange and threaded the end, finally drilling the bore.

Here are the parts so far slipped together for a test fit:

The square section is overly thick and long. Next I'll trim down the center, where the blue lines are sketched in. I need to leave a section around the holes till it is soldered, but I can remove a bunch of the material in the center now while it will be easier to get at. The vertical tubes are slightly long still, they will be taken back later to make them line up with the valve rod centers, too much chance of them slipping slightly during soldering to take them back now.
This ought to work, I hope! These shapes so far have been simple and quick to turn out, the final assembly is much more of a complex shape. Forgot to include a ruler, for scale the square section is 3/8" across the flats, the threads are M8.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #412 on: February 12, 2020, 11:26:56 PM »
Chris--When I have to set down and take a break from my project, I always set at my computer and look at your project. Very, very nice.---Brian

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #413 on: February 12, 2020, 11:33:03 PM »
Chris--When I have to set down and take a break from my project, I always set at my computer and look at your project. Very, very nice.---Brian
Likewise, someday I will give an IC engine a try. Not yet, too many steamers left!   :cheers:

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #414 on: February 13, 2020, 12:24:20 AM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline Elam Works

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #415 on: February 13, 2020, 06:07:26 AM »
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One other question for the crankshaft area - there are a pair of nuts on each frame rod holding the crankshaft bearing blocks together. But, there is then a spring and another nut. What is that for? Is the 'nut' inside the spring, against the bearings, really a nut, or does that have a clearance hole? Guessing it is part of the mount to the frame?

About those main bearing caps. There is a nut on the cylinder end that the bearing caps abut. These were adjusted to all be equal distant from the cross head, cylinder, or whatever; and then cross pinned and brazed in place on some models. Then the fore and aft bearing cap slide on. Then a nut to clamp the bearing caps. A thin steel plate spans the upper and lower frame rod, the corners of which are bent over as a form of nut lock. The next nut you see is what the rear axle assembly abuts. These are adjusted fore and aft to set the gear mesh. Coil springs are used to keep the lock plate against the bearing cap nut. When you change the gear ratio, the nuts have to be moved quite a bit and you have to use longer or shorter coil springs to suit the resulting gap. The attached pic of an engine in-situ might clarify. This a model 740, circa 1922. And another of a 1918 where the locking plates are more visible.

-Doug

-Doug

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #416 on: February 13, 2020, 01:26:17 PM »
That clarifies things a lot!  I didn't understand what the thin locking plates were for, and it makes sense about the axle mount too. All the pictures I have seen were off the axle. Is the cylindrical unit above the axle a generator for lights?
 :cheers:

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #417 on: February 13, 2020, 04:32:50 PM »
More on the valve guide - trimmed back two of the sides on the square bar that will be hard to get at later, then tapped for some brass screws to hold everything in place. These worked out great, measured the length on the guide tubes and tightened them, thenran the part into place with the tie rods, and the screws loose (to match mine) on the end tubes and slid the tubes into place then tightened them down. That got everything into good alignment for soldering.

In the picture above, the end tube sections on the right will be trimmed back with the square bar, the sections on the left position the part against the crossmember on the left. Here are the other ends of the guide tubes, where the threads are, sticking out of the plate - there will be thin nuts here to hold them.

Got the parts soldered, the tubes were not a tight fit so the solder flowed right into the joints, should be solid. Will let that cool and give it a soak in the pickling solution to clean it up for finishing....



Offline Elam Works

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #418 on: February 13, 2020, 05:30:27 PM »
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Is the cylindrical unit above the axle a generator for lights?

Yes, it is a generator. Later models had electric lights and a electric ignitor for the burner.

-Doug

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Build of a Stanley 735 Engine
« Reply #419 on: February 13, 2020, 06:50:42 PM »
And one pickled valve guide, ready for the rest of machining.


Tried a new pickling solution, Zee's Stinking Hoppie. Think he'll notice the coppery flavor? Had one of the elves trot down there with the part to dunk it in his bottle...   :Lol:

 

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