Author Topic: Atlas, Logan, Bolton, or....? (Read 6391 times)

jmcyclist · « **on:** December 22, 2019, 05:44:53 PM »

G'day all,

My first post here!

I currently have a Taig, and love it for what it is and can do, but I'm looking to add a larger lathe to my shop. Right now on my local CL, there are: a 10" Atlas H36 ("built before 1948"), a Logan 820, and a Bolton Tools BT1330, all for roughly the same price. All look to be in serviceable condition, and the Atlas and Logan look to come with some tooling (the Bolton has a cooling system and a QCTP, but no additional tooling.) All look like they come with stands. I'm wondering if there's a general 'order' of quality here amongst these three options?

I don't want a huge lathe, rather a capable machine that will handle projects up to and including something like the 3/4" scale Kozo Pennsy A3 (a lifetime stretch goal of mine - following Kim's build (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,8552.0.html) on this forum) . Aside from that dream, I work mostly in the G scale size (garden railways), and want to turn my own wheels, axles, etc.

Many thanks,
Justin

Dave Otto · « **Reply #1 on:** December 22, 2019, 07:08:58 PM »

Hi Justin, welcome to MEM.

Depending on condition and price my vote would probably be the Logan. The Atlas lathes I see for sale around here, people seem to think that they are gold plated. They have their issues, flat ways, pot metal (Zymac sp.) gears, etc. I think Sears did sell some lathes with prismatic ways but I think these were made by Clausing.

The Bolton seems to be just another garden verity Chinese lathe.

I believe the some parts are still available for the Logan lathes, through Logan Actuator .

Keep in mind that in lots of ways a new import machine may serve you better than a worn out US machine. Do you want to make models or rebuild a machine?

Maybe post the links to the CL adds so we can see the machines in question?

Just my thoughts,
Dave

steamer · « **Reply #2 on:** December 22, 2019, 07:21:30 PM »

I kinda echo what Dave is saying....pictures would help though!

Welcome!

Dave

b.lindsey · « **Reply #3 on:** December 22, 2019, 08:37:26 PM »

Welcome to MEM Justin. I can't help with the question, but happy to have you in board with us.

Bill

jmcyclist · « **Reply #4 on:** December 22, 2019, 11:35:09 PM »

Thanks for the welcome!

Good point about the used v. new...I don't necessarily want to be rebuilding...I want to be cutting chips and making stuff.

As suggested, links to the ads:

Bolton: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/tls/d/new-braunfels-13x40-lathe/7034044399.html

Logan: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/tls/d/mountain-home-lathe-logan-model-820/7027153713.html

Atlas: https://sanmarcos.craigslist.org/tls/d/san-marcos-atlas-10-rare-h36-lathe/7016784184.html

Flyboy Jim · « **Reply #5 on:** December 23, 2019, 12:01:13 AM »

Welcome to MEM Justin.

For about the same amount of money these seem to get pretty good reviews:
https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/

What do you have for a mill?

jmcyclist · « **Reply #6 on:** December 23, 2019, 12:39:45 AM »

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the link. The PM machines look pretty nice! (And when I looked just now, two of them were in stock...the 1022 w/QCTP, and the 1030 w/ QCTP & DRO.)

Right now I don't have a mill...I'm contemplating an LMS mini or bench mill.

I guess one of the draws of something like the Logan is the included tooling. I'm given to understand that tooling is about half of what one should budget for.

Dave Otto · « **Reply #7 on:** December 23, 2019, 12:50:16 AM »

The Logan does have nice chucks with it, if they are in good shape. For the reasons I stated before I would shy away from the Atlas.
As far as the Atlas goes I have seen way better examples sell in the $800 range, but times change.

Maybe you could see the Logan run and make some test cuts with it? it looks like a pretty decent machine if it doesn't have problems.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #8 on:** December 23, 2019, 01:21:49 AM »

Thanks Dave, that's a good idea, I'll see if the seller will allow a few test cuts.

10KPete · « **Reply #9 on:** December 23, 2019, 01:27:10 AM »

A friend bought a 10" Logan a couple of years ago. 1950 something. Very dirty but looked ok. We cleaned it up and I'm very impressed with how will it's built compared to the Atlas. Which another friend owns. They will both do good model work but the Logan is all steel and cast iron, very will made. And nothing out of the ordinary in it's construction, it's very rebuildable equipment. I have a South Bend but I've rebuilt it.

'twer it me, I'd go with that Logan. The tooling alone is worth much more than the lathe on the market but the package is almost priceless to a beginner because it has tooling that matches the lathe. No searching for that stuff!

Pete

Kim · « **Reply #10 on:** December 23, 2019, 01:46:17 AM »

Hi Justin,
Welcome to MEM.

I've got a Taig also - both the lathe and a mill. And over time, I've replaced both of them with bigger machines. But they have (and continue to) serve me well.

The only input I have for you on your decision is to let you know that I opted for a new import (Grizzly). But the Logan sure looks tempting! I'd certainly follow other's advice on that. They have way more experience than I do!

Kim

jmcyclist · « **Reply #11 on:** January 04, 2020, 06:03:11 PM »

I am heading to check out the Logan today. The seller offered to let me “play around “ and make some cuts. Is there anything in particular I should be on the lookout for?

Dave Otto · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2020, 07:31:06 PM »

Hi Justin

Just a few quick things:

Looks the ways over especially near the head stock to see if there is excess wear.
Run it through all the speeds, see how it feels and sounds.
Check the back gears for excess wear/damage.
Check all the settings in the quick change gear gear box, run it at each setting.
Check for excess back lash in the cross feed and compound feed screws.
Check the tail stock taper for damage, do the drill chucks and centers stay locked in place. Does it take a little effort to pop them out?

Maybe some of the guys can add to this.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2020, 04:18:03 PM »

Update:

After checking out the lathe on Saturday, and running some turning and facing tests, the Logan seemed to def be a winner.

The ways looked to be in very good shape, with two small nicks out of the Vs that shouldn't affect operation. All the gears were in good shape, with plenty of lubrication and no broken/missing teeth. The carriage was also in similarly good shape, and the power feed worked well in both axes. On the tailstock, attachments were easy to remove, but positively seated and worked well. There was a lot of tooling with this lathe, including a 6-jaw Buck chuck, and a British 4-jaw independent (the brand escapes me). Also included was a european QCTP, very beefy, and very solidly built. At some point a DRO was installed on the back of the ways, on the longitudinal axis. On Sunday I returned to purchase the lathe.

The seller helped me disassemble it, largely according to Tubalcain's procedure he used when he bought a similar lathe at an estate auction, and load it onto my truck for the return trip. I barely had enough time to unload it last night into my garage...had to be in bed earlier since I returned to work today!

Strangely, the seller said I was the first person he's had come look at any of his lathes to actually ask to run some tests and see the machine operate (he's a retired machine shop owner and machine dealer, and only "buys stuff I would actually use") !!

Dave Otto · « **Reply #14 on:** January 06, 2020, 04:59:01 PM »

Hi Justin, congrats on the the new lathe.

I'm surprised that you took it that far apart to move it, but that will give you the ability to give everything a good cleaning before reassembling.
I have found Oil Eater to be one of the best greasers that I have ever tried, if you are looking for a recommendation.
https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-Original-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=78134097235847&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=oil+eater&qid=1578329749&sr=8-1

Looks like you found yourself a nice machine.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #15 on:** January 06, 2020, 05:42:07 PM »

Thanks Dave.

I wanted to break it down to that level, mostly so I could clean it. Also...it was just me unloading everything except the ways and the stand...so I couldn't really have any bigger assemblies.

Thanks for the tip on the de-greaser, I'll def check it out. I also have some Purple Power that I'll probably use as well.

I'm sure its in the Logan manual that I'm ordering today, but what do y'all recommend for lubrication when I reassemble it? I need some way oil, but what about the gearbox and headstock?

I'm pretty happy with it, and am looking forward to cleaning it up and getting her reassembled.

Cheers,
Justin

Dave Otto · « **Reply #16 on:** January 07, 2020, 01:16:10 AM »

Hi Justin

I tried some purple stuff one time that I purchased a Home Depot, it made pretty good paint stripper. One of the reasons I like the Oil Eater as it is much easier on paint; but that also depends on how strong you mix it.

See the attached pictures of the South Bend Shaper, my friend who owns a tool and supply store and collects small machines that he likes to display in his store. He purchased this shaper at an auction and asked me if I would clean it up for him. He wanted to retain as much of the original patina as possible (his words), I completely disassembled it and very carefully cleaned each piece. Even the Oil Eater was pretty hard on this old paint, so what I ended up using was Snap-On water-less hand cleaner. I would rub it on and use a soft tooth brush, and plastic scraper on the heavy areas, then rinse and dry it.

I couldn't leave the rusty parts, so all the bright work got polished. He was pretty happy with how it all turned out.

Dave

awake · « **Reply #17 on:** January 07, 2020, 03:35:36 PM »

I'm glad you got the Logan; I think you'll be very pleased!

FWIW, when I have cleaned up any machine tools (including an SB shaper just like the one Dave shows above!), I have mostly used WD40 as a solvent to loosen the grease and grime, lots of paper towels or rags, and some occasional fine steel wool. If there are any raised dings in the ways (or table of a mill), they get stoned out gently with a fine stone. If I am going to repaint, I may take a wire brush to *non-working* surfaces - definitely not to the ways or such, but as an example, I wire-brushed the top of the shaper (the part that is rusty in the pictures above) before repainting.

I should say that my goal is generally only to clean up to good working condition, rather than to achieve cosmetic results. I did paint the shaper because it had been stored outside for a time, and was in need of protection, but I confess I did not paint it to its original colors - it came out more of a silver grey than a typical SB grey. Okay by me, as my goal is to use it (and I do, quite a lot, in spite of having both a Bridgeport and a small mill-drill). For the same reason, most machine tools I simply clean up down to the last coat of paint and put them into service.

Dave Otto · « **Reply #18 on:** January 07, 2020, 04:07:22 PM »

Hi Andy

What appears to be rust it is actually the red oxide primer that South Bend used under the paint.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #19 on:** January 07, 2020, 04:14:32 PM »

Thanks guys! Last night I got about 15mins to work on something, so I chose the chip tray. I used some of the Purple Power spray (its actually orange, and is a citrus-based solvent), and a plastic bristled brush (not stainless or brass), and worked on the head-stock end of the tray. Results shown below...not too bad, I think! I'm ordering a spray bottle of Oil Eater today, and will try that out this weekend.

@awake, I think I'm going for what you describe...a good cleaning, but not a complete refinishing. I like the patina of a well-used and well-cared-for machine. I'm going to work on cleaning everything, and see what comes of it. TBH, there are a couple things I'll have to do *some* amount of refinishing, like the underside of the carriage (pic also below), but what will probably be treated with evaporust or the like, and clear-coated.

Cheers!

jmcyclist · « **Reply #20 on:** January 07, 2020, 06:59:35 PM »

What do you y'all recommend for lubricating the various parts/assemblies as I reassemble the machine? Is there a particular way oil that I should source for an older machine?

cnr6400 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 07, 2020, 07:13:19 PM »

I have always used ISO 32 hydraulic jack oil on my old South Bend lathe. Everything still operates perfectly, no corrosion anywhere, more than 30 years on. Probably work well for your Logan, and it's widely available. At least locally to me it is not expensive, I paid about $7 a litre for it here in Ontario Canada recently. I got the idea to use it from Shell Oil's lubrication hotline. Shortly after I got the lathe (pre internet) I was confused about what oil to use, as the SB data plates mentioned 100 Saybolt seconds viscosity oil. I had no cross ref for this old style viscosity reference so I called the hotline, they checked, and told me the hyd jack oil was closest modern equivalent. (modern 30 yr ago that is)

Good luck with the Logan, they are a nice machine.

awake · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2020, 08:12:08 PM »

Quote from: Dave Otto on January 07, 2020, 04:07:22 PM

Hi Andy

What appears to be rust it is actually the red oxide primer that South Bend used under the paint.

Dave

Ah, then it is ready for some paint!

In the case of my SB shaper, it was most definitely rust - as I said, the machine sat outside for a time, in an area covered by a roof but no walls. Fortunately the rust was not too severe, and for the most part residual oil protected most of the working surfaces.

Dave Otto · « **Reply #23 on:** January 08, 2020, 12:42:08 AM »

Hi Justin

For lube I would use Mobil Vactra #2 for anything that slides, also any plain bearings (bushings) like on the cross feed screw etc. I also use Vactra on the cross feed and compound screws of my lathe.
I modified the screws that hold the nuts into the casting so I can lube them from the top using a pressure oil can.
For open gears, probably a good quality #2 lithium grease.
Depending on what the manual says, probably a light hydraulic oil as CNR6400 has indicated above for the spindle bearings. Mobil DTE 24 is a high quality ISO 32 oil, if that is what is required.

Just my thoughts,
Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #24 on:** January 13, 2020, 09:41:21 PM »

Just a quick update....

I ordered a manual, new belts, rubber bushings for the drive cover, a new countershaft (the old one had heavy scoring and needed replacement), and new felt wipers for the carriage. When I took apart the tailstock to inspect and clean, I discovered that a previous owner (not the gentleman who sold to me) had not replaced or lost the Woodruff Key that mates the tailstock handwheel, bearing, and tailstock screw...so I'm off to the local O'Reilly's to pick up a new one.

The manual calls for graphite grease for all the gears, do y'all have a recommended brand? Of course the manual's recommendation is generic "graphite grease". I am coming to understand (largely still a guess) that Logan's don't require the multitude of specific lubricants that South Bend's do...just a good way oil, graphite grease for the gears, and a generic machine oil for the little oil cups.

Thanks all for the help, I really appreciate it!!

-Justin

jmcyclist · « **Reply #25 on:** January 15, 2020, 01:16:49 AM »

Additional update: I took apart the tailstock, only to find that the handwheel was held on with a set-screw, and not using a Woodruff key, as is shown in the manual. I sent pics to Logan Actuator, and they confirmed that the handwheel is definitely not stock. They have both the handwheel and handle in stock, so I've ordered those, and will be cleaning up the tailstock screw to accept a key.

jmcyclist · « **Reply #26 on:** January 15, 2020, 01:25:16 AM »

Pics of the tailstock with the handwheel removed. The original handwheel did not have an additional sleeve, and has a keyway machined in the bore.

Dave Otto · « **Reply #27 on:** January 15, 2020, 01:45:03 AM »

Kind of makes you wonder what happened to the original one?

Dave

awake · « **Reply #28 on:** January 15, 2020, 09:47:32 PM »

Ouch - I hate to see it when someone has used a set screw, and in the process has messed up the keyway. Fortunately, looks like you will be able to clean it up without too much work.

jmcyclist · « **Reply #29 on:** January 16, 2020, 05:42:48 PM »

Andy, Dave,

Exactly. I didn't take a good pic of it, but the set screw hole also looks to have been rather amateurishly drilled...its WAY off center, and whomever did it definitely did NOT use a mill to establish a flat surface to drill through. Logan Actuator has been great answering my questions, and adjusting invoices for me to avoid shipping multiple shipments as I discover things. I'm just glad I have the proper handwheel on the way, and it looks like I'll be able to get it back to stock.

One interesting thing, that I'm not sure how much it matters, but I can't seem to figure out how to separate the tailstock screw from the quill. The manual shows a rubber washer on the end of the screw where it attaches to the back of the quill...but I don't want to damage either the screw or quill trying to unscrew them from each other. They both appear to be in decent/good shape (other than that scarring where the setscrew contacted the tailstock screw)...and I can remove the whole assembly from the tailstock easy enough. Just can't quite figure out in my head how to get them apart. Any thoughts here would be most appreciated, but I don't think its critical.

Cheers!

awake · « **Reply #30 on:** January 16, 2020, 08:44:20 PM »

Unfortunately, don't know enough about the Logans to help. FWIW (not much), I was never able to get the tailstock screw out of the tailstock on my circa 1950 Cincinnati TrayTop lathe - I tried and tried, referring to the manual, and finally gave up. I don't recall now exactly why I was trying ... whatever it was doesn't seem to have caused any issues in the last 15 years of using this lathe!

BTW, that was not the only place where there was a discrepancy between the lathe and the manual (which appeared to be the correct manual for that model). It would appear that they made some adjustments to the lathe without necessarily adjusting the manual ... ?

jmcyclist · « **Reply #31 on:** February 04, 2020, 04:32:46 PM »

So I've made some progress in reassembling the Logan. I've re-mounted the ways, the headstock, tested the fit of the tailstock, and am testing out the carriage. Up next is the apron, and I'm wondering what y'all who have aprons that have an oil bath for the gears are using for the lubrication? When I disassembled the lathe, there was no oil in the well (its behind the front of the apron, but there is a drain plug on the bottom). There seemed to be plenty of grease, and the gears all worked well/smoothly, and there doesn't appear to be any significant wear or breakage. Just curious what gear oil I should use.

jmcyclist · « **Reply #32 on:** February 04, 2020, 04:57:00 PM »

I have no idea why the last pic is inverted...in every viewer on my computer it is right-side-up. Sorry!

Dave Otto · « **Reply #33 on:** February 04, 2020, 07:26:18 PM »

This is what I run in all the gearboxes on my lathe.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00265462

Looks like you are making good progress.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #34 on:** February 07, 2020, 02:37:32 PM »

Thanks Dave! What oil would you use for the countershaft? It sits in a casting, with press-fit bronze bushings. I don't know if I should use grease or oil.

I've finally got it all back together, and now just need to tune and lubricate it!

Dave Otto · « **Reply #35 on:** February 08, 2020, 01:32:48 AM »

I would use the same ISO 68 oil as in the gear box. Does it have the Gits flip top oilers? that would tell you that it needs oil and not grease.

Dave

jmcyclist · « **Reply #36 on:** February 10, 2020, 08:13:45 PM »

Thanks for the suggestion. The casting that the countershaft fits in does not have the flip-top oilers, but it does have little oil holes. The manual states to oil these two spots (one on each side) as part of the daily lubrication routine. I was also wondering about "spindle oil" like Mobil Velocite No. 6 or No.10?

Dave Otto · « **Reply #37 on:** February 11, 2020, 12:11:55 AM »

Quote from: jmcyclist on February 10, 2020, 08:13:45 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. The casting that the countershaft fits in does not have the flip-top oilers, but it does have little oil holes. The manual states to oil these two spots (one on each side) as part of the daily lubrication routine. I was also wondering about "spindle oil" like Mobil Velocite No. 6 or No.10?

What oil does the factory recommend?

jmcyclist · « **Reply #38 on:** February 11, 2020, 02:21:40 PM »

The only thing the manual says about the oil for lubricating the 8 or so regular locations is to "Use a good machine oil no heavier than SAE No. 10."

Herk · « **Reply #39 on:** February 11, 2020, 07:24:08 PM »

The small chamfered oil holes for the drive countershaft are inadequate and often overlooked. Also, most of these were just a steel shaft in cast iron. Don't be surprised if there is significant wear on the shaft and it's bores in the countershaft yoke, which is typical of older "peg-leg" Logans. Fortunately the shaft is just 5/8" mild steel rod stock, and Oilite bushings can be fairly easily fitted. Next time mine is apart I plan to fit larger oil cups, or perish the thought, zerk type grease fittings.

john mills · « **Reply #40 on:** February 11, 2020, 08:19:22 PM »

the Hercus counter shaft on the 9" lathe has a sleep shaft running in cast ion castings these give good service if they have some oil mine have done nearly 50years one of the HERCUS brothers when asked about oil he said
you oil yours so as long as it is oiled it will be fine .mild steel in cast iron at the speeds it runs is as good as any thing .the ball bearing was an option.mine has the steel in cast ion and is still going well.if they don't get oiled some times that is when you can have problems .You can not put much oil there or the oil will drip and make a mess the little holes are quite sufficient .

John

Dave Otto · « **Reply #41 on:** February 11, 2020, 09:34:04 PM »

I would think that the #6 would be appropriate.
https://www.ulei-mobil.ro/pdf/MobilIndustrieDataSheet/Velocite%20Oil%20Numbered%20Series%20pds.pdf

Dave

awake · « **Reply #42 on:** February 11, 2020, 10:00:03 PM »

Quote from: jmcyclist on February 11, 2020, 02:21:40 PM

The only thing the manual says about the oil for lubricating the 8 or so regular locations is to "Use a good machine oil no heavier than SAE No. 10."

If I recall correctly (always a dangerous assumption, but I digress), SAE 10 equates to ISO 32. I would use ISO 32 hydraulic oil.

jmcyclist · « **Reply #43 on:** February 11, 2020, 10:33:02 PM »

So from what I can gather (both on the Mobil Velocite oil site, and several articles covering "oil weight conversions"), either Velocite No.6 or No. 10 should work. They're both classified as "spindle oils". I installed a new countershaft, as the old one was VERY scored and beat up, especially in the areas covered by the bearings. Logan Actuator will supply "oil less bearings" for the countershaft carrier, so my plan this week is to take that part off, and completely clean it so I can assess the state of the bearings. I'm also going to see if I can tap them a little to see if they move. They actually look like there's a 'keyway-shaped' area that's been milled out, and I was wondering if that was for some sort of wiping material? I can't quite tell with it assembled, so I'll look at it more closely this week.

Thank you all for your input! The only other oils I have right now on hand are 3-in-1, some basic 10W30, and Vactra No.2 Way Oil...so I'm going to avoid trying any of those while I wait for the Velocite No. 10 that I ordered to come in. I'll be sure to post any updates back here. Cheers!!

jmcyclist · « **Reply #44 on:** February 11, 2020, 10:51:06 PM »

Update: So in all of my obvious searching, I forgot to check the Logan FAQ.

They state very plainly that "All other oil spots (besides the ways) on the Logan Lathe can be oiled with ISO 22 grade spindle oil"...so according to the .pdf that Dave posted, it would be the Mobil Velocite No.10 oil.

john mills · « **Reply #45 on:** February 11, 2020, 11:52:15 PM »

is that keyway shape next to the shaft a recess like that can have a felt pad to hold oil

John

GWRdriver · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2020, 01:55:44 PM »

re Lube oil
Years ago, because my Harrison spec initially called for it, I began using an ISO 68 hydraulic oil (currently Mobile Hydraulic Oil AW) and discovered it was perfect for general lubrication on all my machines as well as other general workshop lubrication. I've been completely satisfied with its performance ever since. I bought my last 5-gal pail locally some years ago. The only drawback (and disappointment) is the shocking increase in price since then!

I don't use hydraulic oil for protecting working surfaces (mill table, drill press table, etc.) I use a thinner lube/preservative on those surfaces (but NOT WD-40!)

awake · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2020, 05:30:03 PM »

Quote from: jmcyclist on February 11, 2020, 10:51:06 PM

Update: So in all of my obvious searching, I forgot to check the Logan FAQ. They state very plainly that "All other oil spots (besides the ways) on the Logan Lathe can be oiled with ISO 22 grade spindle oil"...so according to the .pdf that Dave posted, it would be the Mobil Velocite No.10 oil.

Well, I was close.

I would say that if you have any trouble finding ISO 22, or if the Mobil Velocite is way more expensive than you had hoped, you would be fine with bog-standard ISO 32, generally available pretty inexpensively, often in the big-box stores, many auto parts stores, also via Amazon Prime.

jmcyclist · « **Reply #48 on:** February 14, 2020, 02:41:06 PM »

Quote from: john mills on February 11, 2020, 11:52:15 PM

is that keyway shape next to the shaft a recess like that can have a felt pad to hold oil

John

Yes, I think that's exactly what its for. Upon further inspection, it looks like the shaft carrier (where these pad areas are) has some pretty significant scoring. I don't have the pics with me right now, but will try to post over the weekend. I also can't locate a replacement part on the Logan store, so I'll have to email them. I think the other option is to drill out the shaft holes to fit the oil-less bearings Logan sells. I have to give it a think. For the time being, I have replaced the new counter shaft with the old, so as to avoid scarring the new one. Fortunately, this is not a close-tolerance required assembly, so as long as I can keep it sufficiently lubricated to avoid squeaking and squealing, I should be ok.

Many thanks all for the input/guidance/suggestions, I'm learning a LOT about this lathe and really enjoying the journey.

Cheers!

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Author Topic: Atlas, Logan, Bolton, or....? (Read 6391 times)