Author Topic: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine  (Read 6757 times)

Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2020, 04:19:13 PM »
The end of the connecting rod is made out of steel with a bronze bush. As this is only a half clamp I am not sure how the bearings are supposed to be fitted  :headscratch: so this is what I decided to do....

Starting with two bits of round bar (scrap-bin-ium), the larger diameter one was drilled to let the smaller one go through and the smaller one was drilled through 1.2mm, on one end counter drilled 1.8mm and the other with a 4mm counter drill to act as the oil cup. These were then silver soldered together.

The clamp was added next by first milling a groove then solver soldering in a piece of square. While the cucking piece was still on the end I took it to length before cutting that off and using a slitting saw to cut the split. It was then clamped round a piece of bar and the other end faced.

Because the end  does not split it was necessary to press in two bronze bearings from either side and then clamp on to these.

The engine is looking a little more like the original engraving and can go too and fro, when you turn over the crankshaft  :cartwheel:

Jo
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Offline bent

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #31 on: February 17, 2020, 08:34:11 PM »
Had to read that through a couple of times to make sense of what you did... :noidea: :old:

The result looks good.  Now just need the inlet fittings and take it for a spin?

Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2020, 04:02:08 PM »
  Now just need the inlet fittings and take it for a spin?

Just  :lolb: the inlet fittings..... thanks Bent.

The last casting is the valve body: The drawings provide two options for this to make it out of two pieces or try to make it out on one. I opted to do it out of one.

It seems strange but the first surface to turn to size is the inlet and outlet. These must be centralised around the main body but within the constraints of the casting. I had to make my flanges 15.5mm diameter rather than the 16mm as the flange was not big enough. While turning the flanges it was necessary to provide end support using a centre. This centre is then used to drill the inlet/outlet hole to depth.

We can now take the casting over to the milling vice and use these two flanges to hold the casting while facing the port face and then drilling the port holes down to meet the two holes previously drilled from either flange. The drawings show that there are three holes on 25.4mm PCD used to mount the valve face. The casting shape was too small for this so I reduced the PCD to 22mm.

The casting could then be turned 90 degrees and the base milled flat and the two 1.4mm holes drilled through which will later be used to secure the base.

The last part of the shaping today was to remount the casting on a piece of dowel and to turn the face opposite the port face. I was pleased to find that the hole previously drilled through is central  :cartwheel:

The base drawn up for this item does not look right so I need to do another redesign  :)

Jo
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Offline scc

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2020, 04:39:59 PM »
Nice :popcorn:

Offline Jo

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Re: Hick Crank Overhead engine
« Reply #34 on: February 23, 2020, 12:47:54 PM »
Between the cylinder and the valve castings are two port plates: a fixed plate and the moving plate.

The moving plate is 3.18imm thick but I chose to leave it at 6mm thick while I drilled and milled the two 1.6mm wide ports into it. This face has two countersunk holes in it for 10BA screws which are used to fix the plate onto the cylinder casting.

Having successfully got away with milling those narrow slots without breaking the milling cutter  ;D it was now time to turn the plate to thickness and to drill through and counterbore the centre for the spring seat.

The drawing shows that two ports had to have their inner faces filled a little to improve the gas flow  :thinking: before fixing to the cylinder casting.


Now for the fixed port plate which is much more interesting :paranoia:

Jo

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Offline AVTUR

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Re: Re: Hick Crank Overhead engine
« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2020, 01:09:42 PM »
Jo

Have you put your posting in the wrong thread? 

Are your castings the same as those sold by Hemingway Kits? If so the model appears to be far simpler than the Crank Overhead engine. I am jealous of your speed of working.

AVTUR
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Offline Jasonb

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Re: Re: Hick Crank Overhead engine
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2020, 01:15:36 PM »
yes bit of a hick-up there should have gone into Jo's thread.

Almost there Jo should be going by the end of the week ;)

Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2020, 04:02:19 PM »
 :facepalm: All sorted.

The fixed port plate is a similar operation to the moving port plate. But this one needs two arcs milled on one side so that needs the plate to be mounted up on a rotary table, then it is just a case of going the long way between the drilled port holes. After that the plate can have the diameter reduced on either side and have the centre counterbored.

Then I mounted the plate onto the valve casting to check what needed to be taken off around the outside. I decided the easiest way to remove the excess was to put the plate back onto the rotary table and first mill between the mounts and then finish by hand.

I can now look at the challenge of making a suitable base.

Almost there Jo should be going by the end of the week ;)

Possibly, I did mention this to Surus and was told yes if it is running by the end of the week someone will deserve another set of castings. I am not sure if he meant me  :noidea:

Jo
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Offline bent

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #38 on: February 24, 2020, 05:42:24 PM »
Well, that was easy!  :insane:

Looks good from over here.

Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2020, 05:57:36 PM »
Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

The original print shows four holes on each flange to bolt the engine to the steam line and exhaust. I'll assume they should have bolts and the scale would mean that 10BA would be appropriate.

Sorry no progress today, too much gardening going on ::)

Jo
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Offline Flyboy Jim

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #40 on: February 25, 2020, 04:01:37 AM »
Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

The original print shows four holes on each flange to bolt the engine to the steam line and exhaust. I'll assume they should have bolts and the scale would mean that 10BA would be appropriate.

Sorry no progress today, too much gardening going on ::)

Jo

So Jo.........does the mean we're going to see an update in the Gardening forum soon?  :thinking:

Of course.........I guess I better do that myself. Lots of changes in my little gardening area.

 :cheers: Jim
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Offline Mike Bondarczuk

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #41 on: February 25, 2020, 08:32:18 AM »
The current state of the weather in our UK Hampshire would suggest that Jo may start growing rice in her garden if she is going to become active outdoors.

Mike
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Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #42 on: February 27, 2020, 06:21:24 PM »
Thank you Mike  ::)

I thought that it was going to be easy to add the spring and bolt on the valve casting so that I could make the Valve base  :disappointed:

First I found that I had counterbored the fixed valve plate on the wrong side  :toilet_claw: So that had to have a piece silver soldered in and for the other side to be counter bored. This proved the two ports needed a bit more hand filing to provide adequate flow.

Then I discovered that because the casting was a bit small over the three mounting lugs on the valve casting and I had brought the three studs in, their nuts got in the way of joining the fixed and moving plate :facepalm: I got round this by using 8BA bolts with 9BA heads, rather than studs and reduced nuts (bolt heads are thinner)  :-[ Even so I still had to reduce the diameter of the fixed valve slightly to allow the reduced bolt heads to fit with the valve with its moving plate snug against the fixed valve.

Just to ice the cake the next issue was that the Spring pin was too long and needed shortening. At this point the sun came out and the garden called me out to play ;D



The result of all of this is I did not had time to make the base for the valve, consequently I have been told that I have failed to achieve sufficient progress on this engine to be allowed to see any potential next set of castings and someone is sitting on his new acquisition to making sure I don't get too good a look at them either. I was sure in the old days that we had a tradition that Thursday was casting fondling evening  :noidea:

Jo
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Offline Jasonb

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #43 on: February 27, 2020, 06:27:19 PM »
Tell him he can keep the Junior castings, who wants the ones with the aluminium flywheels anyway :ShakeHead:

Offline Jo

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Re: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine
« Reply #44 on: February 28, 2020, 07:58:03 AM »
Tell him he can keep the Junior castings, who wants the ones with the aluminium flywheels anyway :ShakeHead:

You will have to show him a photograph of the CI flywheels in your set, it might encourage him to let me see this new set  :)

Jo
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

 

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