Author Topic: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine (Read 6939 times)

Jo · « **on:** December 17, 2019, 09:54:37 AM »

This model is based on an original oscillating Steam engine which was displayed under steam by Hick, Hargreave & Co at the Great Exhibition in 1851 where it powered a Ryder forging machine. They claim it was capable of producing 2nhp. It is fairly typical of the type of engines of those days as they were much lighter than the more common beam engines. They found favour in ships as they can, when fitted with valve gear, be run in either direction.

The castings being used to construct this model were originally available from Woking Precision Models. While Woking have long gone the castings are now available from Hemmingway: http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Hick___Son_Ocsillation_Engine___G_K_King.html

For our engine I have acquired a set of Orphaned Castings:

But the observant of you may be as suspicious of these castings as I am..

1, That base plate looks to have come off an engine that got as far as being painted

2, The metal the frames are made of are a totally different colour than the other castings. I might go as far as suggesting they may have been cast in someone's backyard.

3, The two pivot castings look original as does the partially machined Flywheel.

4, The set is not complete

and originally they should have been made in Cast Iron:

5, I don't have any drawings

But there is a partial set in Model Engineer so I will be working from those and drawing up what is missing.

As you know I like a challenge

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #1 on:** January 28, 2020, 03:47:53 PM »

Following on from producing a suitable set of drawings I've been knocking out a couple of bits of the Hick

The original drawing I have shows a crankshaft with slots in it but I am not convinced of the need so I have left them off. The crankshaft bearing pedestals in the original drawing show a very difficult to machine octagonal profile into which the bearings fit - this just strikes me as inventing unnecessary work on both the bearings and on the pedestals and the bearings are going no where as they need a flat at the bottom to clear bearing pedestal so I have bored them 8mm and adjusted the bearing to suit.

I have now started looking into the A frames. Other than the height which is 5mm over the rest of them is just on dimension, which tells me either someone has used an original casting as a pattern or someone took an aluminium casting from the original wooden one and is using that for casting purposes. I can live with or fill most of the A frame to make it usable but the slotted area has to go

So I have milled a strip and I intend on fitting it once I decide how to start milling the A frame

Jo

gbritnell · « **Reply #2 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:03:05 PM »

Nice looking engine Jo. I really wasn't too taken by oscillating engines until I built the Maudslay but have since come to appreciate the artistic architecture on some of them.
gbritnell

Jasonb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:04:46 PM »

Quote from: Jo on January 28, 2020, 03:47:53 PM

The original drawing I have shows a crankshaft with slots in it but I am not convinced of the need so I have left them off.

Having a job envisioning what these slots look like or do, could you give a bit more detail. Unless you mean the shaft has reduced diameters where the bearings go to give axial location to the shaft.

Jo · « **Reply #4 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:09:46 PM »

Thank you George

Some pics for JB: Crank and an example of that octagonal bearing hole. at .4mm deep the slots are not able to do much work.

Jo

zeeprogrammer · « **Reply #5 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:29:04 PM »

Looks an interesting engine.
I'll enjoy this.

Jasonb · « **Reply #6 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:46:03 PM »

I see now the "slots" are Keyways. In that case I'd be tempted to reduce the width to 1/16" and cut to the usual 1/32" deep (half width) they will look more in keeping than grub screws. The large 5/16" diameter will give axial location.

Suppose you could always mill the bearing flanges to an octagonal shape and then not tell anyone else

Jo · « **Reply #7 on:** January 28, 2020, 05:11:56 PM »

I can't see any keyway showing on the crankweb on the crankshaft of the engine in the original engraving from which this engine was developed.

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2020, 01:34:42 PM »

The A frames have to be held around the centre as the top and bottom ridges are not the same width. Thankfully the casting was not cast at a slant which meant both the top and the bottom could be milled and drilled with ease.

The flutes along the top of the A frames were tatty

so you will recall I milled some round bottomed slots into a piece of brass and now it was time to mill a slot into the top of the A frame into which it could fit and improve the looks

While on its side in the vice it was possible to mill the top of the bottom of the A frame to get the correct height for the main cylinder bearing.

The flutes were soft soldered into the slot and I am pleased to say, with some temporary screws holding things in place, everything actually fits

Jo

Craig DeShong · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2020, 01:41:37 PM »

Jo, you are braver than I. I have always been hesitant to take on a project someone else (unknown) has started. I have enough trouble working around the known errors I have made, let alone discovering and attempting to work around the errors of others.

Johnmcc69 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2020, 02:44:55 PM »

Nice work Jo!
That is going to be a really nice model.

John

zeeprogrammer · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2020, 03:03:53 PM »

The flutes came out great. It wouldn't have occurred to me to do something like that so that was a nice bit of learning.

bent · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2020, 04:23:48 PM »

I like the look of cast surfaces...but have to agree the final product look with the milled slots is a big improvement. You have a good eye, Jo.

Jo · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2020, 05:01:58 PM »

Thanks Guys

I was hoping to get a bit more done this afternoon but then I realised that for some reason the drawings for the model show a square bearing for the cylinder pivot whereas the one on the original was circular... And of course that lead on to identifying more changes I want to do

Jo

scc · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2020, 05:18:47 PM »

NICE

Terry

Jo · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2020, 04:18:47 PM »

The cylinder is a tricky casting as both the bore and the pivot must be at exactly 90 degrees to each other. There is two options to machine this: do the pivot faces first or the cylinder bore faces. I chose to do the cylinder bore as the pivot faces are measured from its centre line.

I cleaned up one end of the cylinder and found I could accurately hold it to turn and face the other end and both pivot faces were square to the bore

The first end was turned to 25.4mm and faced. This was then used to hold the cylinder to take the other end down to 25.4mm and face it before boring through at 11.1mm. This end is now the top of the cylinder.

Using a mandrel in the bore of the cylinder the cylinder was taken to its correct length. And the inner faces of the ends were carefully hand "shaped" by using a parting off tool in the tool post and pulling the spindle round (the steam ways mean you can only go part way round the cylinder

)

The cylinder now fits in the gap on the base casting

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2020, 03:58:29 PM »

Having marked the centre line between the two cylinder flanges the final two parts could be turned. First up is the simple parallel end turned by holding the part in a four jaw chuck. The casting was centred by using the two jaw slots in the face of the chuck and the marked line on the end of the spigot used to centred on the tailstock (a quick check down the lathe nose confirmed that the other end of the casting was about central as it went round

).

This turned surface was then be used in a 6.35mm collet to hold the casting, with tailstock support, while first the flange then the bearing surface was turned down.

The cylinder now fits even lower in the base than it did before. I really need to make the two remaining bearing blocks

but there is still another casting left.

Jo

bent · « **Reply #17 on:** February 04, 2020, 06:40:41 PM »

Presumably the pivot bearings will lift the cylinder up enough to allow the bottom to swing freely. But how is sealing maintained on the valving cross piece, is there a spring in there somewhere?

Jo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2020, 07:42:00 AM »

Yes there is a spring that provides the seal for the valve plate.

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #19 on:** February 06, 2020, 04:30:06 PM »

The cylinder covers and gland are a simple turning job. What is more interesting is drilling the cylinder for the covers, the steam ports and the cross drilling down from the cylinder ends. I started with the covers drilling them 2.3mm for 8BA clear. I then drilled the cylinder ends for 8BA tapping so that I could check alignment (these will later be opened out and reverse bolts fitted

) I also took a little off the inner face to improve the steam flow around the inlet area.

The Steam inlet to the cylinder was cut using a 4.76mm slot drill and then a 2.2mm hole drilled 15mm deep. On turning the cylinder round to cut the oscillating face another two 2.2mm holes were drilled and I was pleased to find they met the original pair of holes

However not everything goes right I thought I would be clever and drill the centre pivot hole a little deeper only to find I broke off the drill

After a bit of poking around with a needle I decided to try the put the cylinder in some light oil in the ultra sonic cleaner and see what that might do. I am pleased to say the drill end came out

Last bit to show you for today: the piston gland has to be drilled for 10BA studs, three of them (Zee you will recall your question on this

) to prevent drilling into the collet I put a washer under the face while I was drilling and while the washer was damaged the collet was not. I don't think I can put off making those bearing blocks for much longer

Jo

gbritnell · « **Reply #20 on:** February 06, 2020, 04:39:22 PM »

Very nice work!
gbritnell

Jasonb · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2020, 05:04:18 PM »

Looking good and a lucky save with the broken drill. Do you think you will need to take a bit off the cylinder OD to get the bolt heads in as some of those holes look quite close?

Jo · « **Reply #22 on:** February 06, 2020, 05:14:17 PM »

Thankyou George

JB: It is always necessary to fit bolts when they go tight against the cylinder, it should require only a flat on the bolt head but in one position the cylinder will need cleaning up with a milling cutter.

Jo

Jasonb · « **Reply #23 on:** February 06, 2020, 05:28:09 PM »

Yes looks like one side of the square headed bolt will need to be filed almost flush with the shank. Are you going to add the fat pot too?

Jo · « **Reply #24 on:** February 13, 2020, 03:22:23 PM »

The outer cylinder pedestal has an interesting shape and as I do not have the casting for this I needed to make it up. I am using a piece of flat bar drilled 8BA clear at the right distance to mount two 6.35mm OD 8BA threaded pieces of steel dowel on to it. Between which I will mount the remains of a piece of slightly wider steel bar, which has been drilled 6.35mm at the right distance to slip over the tops of the two dowels. this is then silver soldered together. And (other than getting the height wrong on the first one

) these are then milled so that one fits inside the other. I am deviating from the drawings here as the original engine seems to have round bearings outsides to the main bearings while the drawing shows square

This means that the top and the bottom of the bearing pedestal have to mount together rather than leaving a square hole for the main bearing. Later they will be bored to suit the bearings.

I am using brass for the main bearings, this is not really an ideal bearing material but this engine will not be run much and the cylinder is bronze so I want a different material for the bearing and they are easy enough to make a second set if I do wear the first set out

The big bearing measures 16mm outside so I could not use my stock piece of 12.7mm brass flat bar that I have already soft soldered together for this task but had to cut down a piece of 19mm square

The trick with these bearings is to turn the outside first and once mounted inside a collet bore to suit. If you try boring without any outside support the soft solder may allow the two to open up and the result is a useless piece of scrap

The bits are very slowly coming together... I just wish I had more time

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #25 on:** February 14, 2020, 05:54:02 PM »

I managed to make the second bearing block today and to bore the two so the bearings fit

I ran out of time so did not manage to split the bearings so that the larger bearing could be fitted round the cylinder pivot surface $:-\$

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #26 on:** February 15, 2020, 03:31:26 PM »

Having parted the bearings by gently heating them I could then look to fit the cylinder between the two bearings and make sure it is free running.

I also made up the piston rod and put the piston in the cylinder but the other end of the rod is going to need a bit of thinking about

Jo

Alyn Foundry · « **Reply #27 on:** February 15, 2020, 04:50:39 PM »

Hi Jo.

Looking at the " wood cut " drawing at the beginning of your thread it would appear that the big end bearing was just " pinched " on one side only. This being its adjustment for wear.

I can understand your problem if the crankpin has a solid flange at either side.

Cheers Graham.

Jasonb · « **Reply #28 on:** February 15, 2020, 05:02:06 PM »

Yes, probably best to make the inner pin flange a loose one or make a crank with a boss at the pin end to bring it out to thickness.

Have you been printing any useful bits lately?

Jo · « **Reply #29 on:** February 15, 2020, 06:13:36 PM »

I think I have a solution for the big end

Quote from: Jasonb on February 15, 2020, 05:02:06 PM

Have you been printing any useful bits lately?

Nope, while the 3D printer has taught me a lot, and I have already had more than my money's worth out of it, it is but a tool which can wait for the appropriate time to be used

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #30 on:** February 16, 2020, 04:19:13 PM »

The end of the connecting rod is made out of steel with a bronze bush. As this is only a half clamp I am not sure how the bearings are supposed to be fitted

so this is what I decided to do....

Starting with two bits of round bar (scrap-bin-ium), the larger diameter one was drilled to let the smaller one go through and the smaller one was drilled through 1.2mm, on one end counter drilled 1.8mm and the other with a 4mm counter drill to act as the oil cup. These were then silver soldered together.

The clamp was added next by first milling a groove then solver soldering in a piece of square. While the cucking piece was still on the end I took it to length before cutting that off and using a slitting saw to cut the split. It was then clamped round a piece of bar and the other end faced.

Because the end does not split it was necessary to press in two bronze bearings from either side and then clamp on to these.

The engine is looking a little more like the original engraving and can go too and fro, when you turn over the crankshaft

Jo

bent · « **Reply #31 on:** February 17, 2020, 08:34:11 PM »

Had to read that through a couple of times to make sense of what you did...

The result looks good. Now just need the inlet fittings and take it for a spin?

Jo · « **Reply #32 on:** February 18, 2020, 04:02:08 PM »

Quote from: bent on February 17, 2020, 08:34:11 PM

Now just need the inlet fittings and take it for a spin?

Just

the inlet fittings..... thanks Bent.

The last casting is the valve body: The drawings provide two options for this to make it out of two pieces or try to make it out on one. I opted to do it out of one.

It seems strange but the first surface to turn to size is the inlet and outlet. These must be centralised around the main body but within the constraints of the casting. I had to make my flanges 15.5mm diameter rather than the 16mm as the flange was not big enough. While turning the flanges it was necessary to provide end support using a centre. This centre is then used to drill the inlet/outlet hole to depth.

We can now take the casting over to the milling vice and use these two flanges to hold the casting while facing the port face and then drilling the port holes down to meet the two holes previously drilled from either flange. The drawings show that there are three holes on 25.4mm PCD used to mount the valve face. The casting shape was too small for this so I reduced the PCD to 22mm.

The casting could then be turned 90 degrees and the base milled flat and the two 1.4mm holes drilled through which will later be used to secure the base.

The last part of the shaping today was to remount the casting on a piece of dowel and to turn the face opposite the port face. I was pleased to find that the hole previously drilled through is central

The base drawn up for this item does not look right so I need to do another redesign

Jo

scc · « **Reply #33 on:** February 18, 2020, 04:39:59 PM »

Nice

Jo · « **Reply #34 on:** February 23, 2020, 12:47:54 PM »

Between the cylinder and the valve castings are two port plates: a fixed plate and the moving plate.

The moving plate is 3.18imm thick but I chose to leave it at 6mm thick while I drilled and milled the two 1.6mm wide ports into it. This face has two countersunk holes in it for 10BA screws which are used to fix the plate onto the cylinder casting.

Having successfully got away with milling those narrow slots without breaking the milling cutter

it was now time to turn the plate to thickness and to drill through and counterbore the centre for the spring seat.

The drawing shows that two ports had to have their inner faces filled a little to improve the gas flow

before fixing to the cylinder casting.

Now for the fixed port plate which is much more interesting

Jo

AVTUR · « **Reply #35 on:** February 23, 2020, 01:09:42 PM »

Jo

Have you put your posting in the wrong thread?

Are your castings the same as those sold by Hemingway Kits? If so the model appears to be far simpler than the Crank Overhead engine. I am jealous of your speed of working.

AVTUR

Jasonb · « **Reply #36 on:** February 23, 2020, 01:15:36 PM »

yes bit of a hick-up there should have gone into Jo's thread.

Almost there Jo should be going by the end of the week

Jo · « **Reply #37 on:** February 23, 2020, 04:02:19 PM »

All sorted.

The fixed port plate is a similar operation to the moving port plate. But this one needs two arcs milled on one side so that needs the plate to be mounted up on a rotary table, then it is just a case of going the long way between the drilled port holes. After that the plate can have the diameter reduced on either side and have the centre counterbored.

Then I mounted the plate onto the valve casting to check what needed to be taken off around the outside. I decided the easiest way to remove the excess was to put the plate back onto the rotary table and first mill between the mounts and then finish by hand.

I can now look at the challenge of making a suitable base.

Quote from: Jasonb on February 23, 2020, 01:15:36 PM

Almost there Jo should be going by the end of the week

Possibly, I did mention this to Surus and was told yes if it is running by the end of the week someone will deserve another set of castings. I am not sure if he meant me

Jo

bent · « **Reply #38 on:** February 24, 2020, 05:42:24 PM »

Well, that was easy!

Looks good from over here.

Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

Jo · « **Reply #39 on:** February 24, 2020, 05:57:36 PM »

Quote from: bent on February 24, 2020, 05:42:24 PM

Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

The original print shows four holes on each flange to bolt the engine to the steam line and exhaust. I'll assume they should have bolts and the scale would mean that 10BA would be appropriate.

Sorry no progress today, too much gardening going on

Jo

Flyboy Jim · « **Reply #40 on:** February 25, 2020, 04:01:37 AM »

Quote from: Jo on February 24, 2020, 05:57:36 PM

Quote from: bent on February 24, 2020, 05:42:24 PM
Are the inlet and outlet flanges supposed to be thru-bolted?

The original print shows four holes on each flange to bolt the engine to the steam line and exhaust. I'll assume they should have bolts and the scale would mean that 10BA would be appropriate.

Sorry no progress today, too much gardening going on

Jo

So Jo.........does the mean we're going to see an update in the Gardening forum soon?

Of course.........I guess I better do that myself. Lots of changes in my little gardening area.

Jim

Mike Bondarczuk · « **Reply #41 on:** February 25, 2020, 08:32:18 AM »

The current state of the weather in our UK Hampshire would suggest that Jo may start growing rice in her garden if she is going to become active outdoors.

Mike

Jo · « **Reply #42 on:** February 27, 2020, 06:21:24 PM »

Thank you Mike

I thought that it was going to be easy to add the spring and bolt on the valve casting so that I could make the Valve base

First I found that I had counterbored the fixed valve plate on the wrong side

So that had to have a piece silver soldered in and for the other side to be counter bored. This proved the two ports needed a bit more hand filing to provide adequate flow.

Then I discovered that because the casting was a bit small over the three mounting lugs on the valve casting and I had brought the three studs in, their nuts got in the way of joining the fixed and moving plate

I got round this by using 8BA bolts with 9BA heads, rather than studs and reduced nuts (bolt heads are thinner)

Even so I still had to reduce the diameter of the fixed valve slightly to allow the reduced bolt heads to fit with the valve with its moving plate snug against the fixed valve.

Just to ice the cake the next issue was that the Spring pin was too long and needed shortening. At this point the sun came out and the garden called me out to play

The result of all of this is I did not had time to make the base for the valve, consequently I have been told that I have failed to achieve sufficient progress on this engine to be allowed to see any potential next set of castings and someone is sitting on his new acquisition to making sure I don't get too good a look at them either. I was sure in the old days that we had a tradition that Thursday was casting fondling evening

Jo

Jasonb · « **Reply #43 on:** February 27, 2020, 06:27:19 PM »

Tell him he can keep the Junior castings, who wants the ones with the aluminium flywheels anyway

Jo · « **Reply #44 on:** February 28, 2020, 07:58:03 AM »

Quote from: Jasonb on February 27, 2020, 06:27:19 PM

Tell him he can keep the Junior castings, who wants the ones with the aluminium flywheels anyway

You will have to show him a photograph of the CI flywheels in your set, it might encourage him to let me see this new set

Jo

Jasonb · « **Reply #45 on:** February 28, 2020, 08:59:49 AM »

It is not one that particularly appeals to me so I don't have it, wonder if the CI flywheels are just taken from the same pattern so may be a little smaller but I doubt that is a problem as they will be a lot heavier anyway.

Are you going to do it with the glow plug or convert to spark ignition?

Now if you want a decent vertical hopper cooled I could suggest my F M Eclipse castings, look at that smooth cast surface, just ripe for a fondle

Jo · « **Reply #46 on:** February 28, 2020, 11:12:30 AM »

Surus is currently checking where his set of those are. He has been telling me you might have pinched his one

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #47 on:** February 28, 2020, 01:24:00 PM »

A base has been made for the valve and screwed to it. I also drilled the 4 holes for the steam inlet/exhaust.

As I couldn't finish the engine this afternoon I thought just try it on air.... there is only a couple of screws in each cover, no packing etc....

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axe4oh7SCPM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axe4oh7SCPM</a>

I think it might run.

Must get on with those studs.

Jo

Admiral_dk · « **Reply #48 on:** February 28, 2020, 07:54:23 PM »

Quote

I think it might run.

I think that you're tantalizingly close to a runner here Jo

That might also help you to get Surus off your back for a (short) while

Jo · « **Reply #49 on:** March 29, 2020, 02:04:13 PM »

Just finished putting the engine together only to find that the paint has not stuck very well on a couple of places

Any way took a video of it running:

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rtajfpvxl8" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rtajfpvxl8</a>

Now I need to do more painting

Jo

Jo · « **Reply #50 on:** March 29, 2020, 02:41:42 PM »

And a couple of pics of the engine. As you can see the cylinder bearings have had their tops rounded over.

Due to the lockdown (of the casting collection) I have been told I don't get a new set of castings in exchange for this finished engine

Jo

Vixen · « **Reply #51 on:** March 29, 2020, 02:48:02 PM »

Hello Jo,

That looks like another lovely engine from you. I particularly like how the brass of the flywheel shows through.

Stay in, Stay safe

Mike

Jo · « **Reply #52 on:** March 29, 2020, 03:26:42 PM »

Thanks Mike

,

I'm staying put in my grounds, not so much inside

Stay safe, stay well.

I seem to have found another model engine to play with

Jo

Bluechip · « **Reply #53 on:** March 29, 2020, 03:27:54 PM »

Hi Jo

Handsome little thing .....

I do rather like that one. Sort-of unusual layout.

What's next? The BIG-UN ??

Been snowing / soft hail or whatever here.

Paws are frozen.

Decided to pack up for the day.

Dave

Mike Bondarczuk · « **Reply #54 on:** March 29, 2020, 03:41:08 PM »

Another extremely nice build log and final product Jo

and stay safe as I am sure you have lots more castings to fondle and finish.

Mike

Jo · « **Reply #55 on:** March 29, 2020, 06:31:41 PM »

Thanks Dave & Mike

Quote from: Bluechip on March 29, 2020, 03:27:54 PM

What's next? The BIG-UN ??

The Surus size '0' casting set has, I have been reliably informed

, been put into the casting lockdown to prevent any unplanned contamination (swarf making) and I have been encouraged to finish off a few more of the part built models in the workshop so that they can be put away safely

Hi Mike, yes a few years ago I had a couple of casting sets to hand but since then someone has moved into the casting cupboard and taken possession of them. If I attempt to acquire an unapproved casting set without permission he has his ways of making my life hell

It is just not worth it

Jo

crueby · « **Reply #56 on:** March 29, 2020, 07:02:30 PM »

Would Surus notice if you 3d printed replacement castings and swapped them out while he is off eating peanuts?

Jasonb · « **Reply #57 on:** March 29, 2020, 07:57:31 PM »

The dark blue makes a nice change from the usual dark greens and maroons, if no new castings are forthcoming you could always get out a bit of the brown stuff and make a base for it, the only alternative would be a barstock engine

kvom · « **Reply #58 on:** March 29, 2020, 08:43:00 PM »

Have you ever considered powder coat rather than paint? I've become quite enamored.

Admiral_dk · « **Reply #59 on:** March 29, 2020, 09:35:20 PM »

Congratulations on another fine runner

If there's a lockdown .... is there other not yet finished engines to complete ...?

Jo · « **Reply #60 on:** March 29, 2020, 09:49:48 PM »

Quote from: Admiral_dk on March 29, 2020, 09:35:20 PM

If there's a lockdown .... is there other not yet finished engines to complete ...?

bent · « **Reply #61 on:** March 31, 2020, 06:45:18 AM »

Yup, looks good Jo. Thanks for the build log, that looked fun.

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Author Topic: B Hick & Son 1851 Oscillating Engine (Read 6939 times)