Author Topic: Old School Sawmill Edger  (Read 3581 times)

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #15 on: October 17, 2019, 07:02:54 PM »
I actually did some real work today. I can buy the 12 tooth sprockets dirt cheap from the local Princess Auto, but they have no hub. First job is to make hubs for them. The material in those hubs was supposed to be cold rolled steel, but it machined a lot like 12L14. It seems to take brazing all right--I'll find out when I clean everything up.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 07:19:34 PM by Brian Rupnow »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #16 on: October 17, 2019, 08:16:56 PM »
The sprockets complete with hubs turned out quite well. If they fall apart at some point, I'll know you can't braze 12L14 steel.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 07:26:56 PM by Brian Rupnow »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #17 on: October 17, 2019, 08:22:22 PM »
Jason--The picture you posted is very interesting. I hadn't seen that pic before. My gear reducer's input and output shaft rotate the same direction. The powered rollers on the underside of the board need to turn the opposite way to the sawblades. The two gears were the quickest way to get a reverse in there.---Brian

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #18 on: October 17, 2019, 08:42:14 PM »
This is it in action, simple drive train.


Also notice how on the last true edging cut the infeed fence has been moved to the operators left and the fixed outfeed fence is inline with the blade so it guides the work as it comes off the saw. The moving infeed fence also allows for things like cutting a previously edged 6x1 into three 2x1s

You can't have the outfeed like yours as an L shape sitting on the outfeed table as the wood needs to pass either side.

Offline Craig DeShong

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2019, 02:04:12 PM »
Interesting project.  You need to prepare lots of popcorn for this one. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Craig

Offline Art K

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2019, 04:59:32 PM »
Brian,
I'm all caught up now. I love the idea of this project, a very mechanical gadget. I like the lever adjusting the moveable saw blade. I will be following along.
Art
"The beautiful thing about learning is that no one can take it away from you" B.B. King

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2019, 11:47:29 PM »
Drove up north to see my 99 year old mom today, and made a side trip on my way back to see my best friend forever who had a stroke. Mom is okay, but has dropped a lot of her memories. Best friend, who is the same age as me had a bad stroke, was in hospital for three weeks and come home yesterday. He has no lasting physical effects, but has aphasia. He can't speak, can't spell, but can understand when others speak to him. He was very frustrated today, trying to tell me things but couldn't speak. He can get a few words out, and I'm sure that over the winter he will regain most of his speaking ability. One of my 2" diameter Proxxon saw-blades was delivered today, other is on back order. It is very sharp, but has no "offset" to the teeth at all. I really wish I had access to small inexpensive toothed belts and pulleys, but since I don't I will use O-rings instead. Hi Art and Craig, glad to hear from you.---Brian
« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 07:27:49 PM by Brian Rupnow »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2019, 12:02:27 AM »
Jason--I watched the video half a dozen times. I agree, you are correct about the "fence". I will redesign the "fence" to be on the infeed side only.  It appears that there is a thin strip of metal on the outfeed side, exactly in line with the fixed sawblade. I'm not exactly sure why it is there, but I will see if I can change my design to incorporate something similar on my edger. My Proxxon blades are only 0.020" thick, so that may be easier said than done. As for all the extra shafts and pulleys, I rather like them, so they will stay. O-rings are cheap. If I had a cheap source for toothed belts and pulleys, I would use them instead.

Offline MJM460

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2019, 03:51:47 AM »
Hi Brian, that thin blade in line with the saw is to prevent the timber from curling back to close the cut which tends to grab the saw blade, not good on the back end of the blade as it tends to lift the timber and can result in kickback.

On a table saw, it also provides a simple way to support a guard.

It might be worth setting those teeth on the slitting saw blade for use on wood.  A simple jig can do it if you donít have the hand sawset device used with wood saws.  The off set reduces the friction of the wood on the side of the blade behind the cut.  A hand saw without offset is very difficult to use, and a power saw without it would I suspect heat up and jam.

I hope your friend is soon on the way to a more full recovery.

MJM460
« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 03:59:13 AM by MJM460 »
The more I learn, the more I find that I still have to learn!

Offline crueby

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #24 on: October 19, 2019, 03:55:47 AM »
Brian, proxxon does make a carbide tipped blade that is thicker, takes an aggressive but smooth cut, I use one on my micromark table saw. Maybe one of those would help?

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #25 on: October 19, 2019, 07:19:26 AM »
As well as acting like a riving knife that you find on a table saw (though most US saw users seem to remove them) the long length of the outfeed "fence" will guide the now straight edge of the board, the infeed fence does nothing when edging a waney edge board as the board won't be straight so can't be run against the infeed fence. This is why the infeed fence can easily be moved away to the left rather than being fixed as yours seems to be.

Although only a single blade one you can see how the long outfeed "fence" guides the cut board to keep the cut straight and the infeed is well out of the way of the waney edged board


« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 07:28:56 AM by Jasonb »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #26 on: October 19, 2019, 05:45:26 PM »
First trick of the day was to make a hub for the sawblade so I can test it and see if it cuts. I made the hub as shown in the picture, then found a 3/8" fine thread nut and locked it up tight against the saw blade. I used some 638 Loctite on the threads. Then I drilled and tapped #6-32 thru the nut and the machined hub for a set-screw to lock the hub onto the saw shaft. Next trick will be to set the blade up on something to see if it does cut the boards  from my sawmill.

« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 07:30:05 PM by Brian Rupnow »

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #27 on: October 19, 2019, 07:51:49 PM »
This video shows a test of the 2" Proxxon blade cutting lumber.

Offline crueby

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #28 on: October 19, 2019, 08:39:41 PM »
Excellent way to get an idea of the feed rate that the model will need.   :popcorn:

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Old School Sawmill Edger
« Reply #29 on: October 19, 2019, 09:37:39 PM »
This is the textured infeed roller. There will be another exactly like it for the outfeed.

« Last Edit: October 19, 2019, 09:54:05 PM by Brian Rupnow »