Author Topic: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine  (Read 44574 times)

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2019, 04:35:47 PM »
And on to facing the ends of the cylinder blanks... 




Hi Chris, this is the picture of the situation I was bit worried about.
In my imagination I have seen the elves already holding the bar and the sherline lathe is spinning around.
Or the elf slips, and is squeezed between the bar and the lathe bed like an old clothes wringer...!

Offline Roger B

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6133
  • Switzerland
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2019, 06:18:14 PM »
That looks very much like what I call exploring the machines capabilities (overloading  :) ) but small machines can do a lot  :ThumbsUp:
Best regards

Roger

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2019, 06:35:53 PM »
That looks very much like what I call exploring the machines capabilities (overloading  :) ) but small machines can do a lot  :ThumbsUp:
Yup - can do large bars, with proper speed and light cuts.  This is about as large as it can go without installing the riser blocks - cutting into the sides of the bars will require the risers, since it wont clear the cross slide table.

Offline Brian Rupnow

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7575
  • Barrie, Ontario Canada
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #18 on: September 22, 2019, 09:02:47 PM »
Interesting build Chris. I will be following along.---Brian

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #19 on: September 22, 2019, 09:32:02 PM »
With the rest of the blanks faced off on both ends, time to drill/tap the holes around the rims of all the flanges. These will serve to bolt the parts to the lathe faceplate for now, then once all the turning/boring is done on all of them, I'll go back and drill out the holes in the caps to clearance size so they can be tightend up on the cylinders. So, once the mill table was adjusted to the right position, I am leaving it all locked down till all the turning/boring is done to keep the spacing correct.
To start, drilled close clearance holes in the faceplate (the inner and larger holes were existing ones) :


Then swapped in the 3-jaw chuck to start drilling tap holes in the parts themselves. It worked out that there is no starting angle on the drilling that will miss all the jaws for all 8 holes, so the parts went in with thin shims under them to give the drill room to break through without hitting the tops of the jaws.


Got the first end cap drilled/tapped, and test fit on the faceplate with 8 4-40 screws:



Runs true on the lathe, so on to the rest of the parts - going to take several sessions to do all the caps and both ends of the cylinders....


« Last Edit: September 22, 2019, 09:36:34 PM by crueby »

Offline Art K

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1761
  • Madison, Wisconsin USA
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #20 on: September 22, 2019, 11:44:33 PM »
Chris,
Now that's what I call exploring the limits of your machine. I think something looking that large in my lathe would be about 10-12 inches diameter. I had the opposite problem I was trying to machine parts that were to small to fit in the chuck. I think I don't know enough about steam to understand how the valving works. But I will watch and learn.
Art
"The beautiful thing about learning is that no one can take it away from you" B.B. King

Offline MJM460

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1647
  • Melbourne, Australia
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2019, 12:21:53 AM »
Hi Chris, with all the seats filling quickly, I had better reserve my place, so count me in.

The size of that engine will allow you to refine the ports shapes or perhaps the operating linkages to get a more progressive port opening.  But then, that model is screaming out to be made in a smaller size for a radio controlled model.

Great progress so far, incredible what you manage to do on a small machine.  Like Art is finding, I find my lathe is probably on the large size for small parts, but it does make easy access for measuring tools and big hands.  Surprising how small you can go on a bigger machine as well. 

MJM460



The more I learn, the more I find that I still have to learn!

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #22 on: September 23, 2019, 02:10:09 AM »
Hi Art/MJM, at least you can always fit a smaller chuck to your lathe (grab it in the big chuck! )  Seriously, little lathes like the Sherline do give a good feel when doing little stuff.if I ever need to do something big, a friend of mine has a huge lathe at his company, will pass 8" pipe through the spindle!

Offline Art K

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1761
  • Madison, Wisconsin USA
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #23 on: September 23, 2019, 02:58:14 AM »
Chris,
Now that makes mine look small. When I made the steel ends on VAL's push rods I didn't have a collet and the 3 jaw was to large. So I used a 3/4 collet and a Tormach drill chuck, worked like a charm.
Art
"The beautiful thing about learning is that no one can take it away from you" B.B. King

Offline Larry

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 166
  • Atlanta, GA
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #24 on: September 23, 2019, 03:47:28 AM »
Will follow along as usual. Interesting project !

Offline MJM460

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1647
  • Melbourne, Australia
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #25 on: September 23, 2019, 03:54:35 AM »
Hi Chris, I don’t think that would fit in my garage.  I am limited to 38 mm through which works well for most of the stock I use.  But whatever size you have there will always be a job that requires bigger.

I use collets for most of the small stuff.

MJM460

The more I learn, the more I find that I still have to learn!

Offline john mills

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 417
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2019, 10:41:58 AM »
looks like an interesting project i too will be following along too.
I don't mind doing small things in larger machines little thing fit and can still be done with big machines we still stretch the size limits of what will fit.I.know of 5" gauge loco cylinders siting on horizontal borer with a 6ft square table.i have programmed for a cnc machine to make 3mm collets for a die grinder as long as the tools will fit the job and the numbers are right it will all work .I have also programmed wheels for a crane that just fired over the bed on old nc lathe needed cranked tool holders to get out to the diameter but it just fitted in.It doesn't matter the size we still try and squeeze in something bigger.I will watch with interest. 

Offline mike mott

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 418
  • Alberta Canada
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2019, 07:13:02 PM »
It is interesting Chris to see how you are pushing the limits of the smaller lathe, I feel lucky having my Myford, as old as it is with its idiosyncrasies.

Mike
If you can imagine it you can build it

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #28 on: September 23, 2019, 08:11:18 PM »
It is interesting Chris to see how you are pushing the limits of the smaller lathe, I feel lucky having my Myford, as old as it is with its idiosyncrasies.

Mike
It does help that I use the free-machining alloys whenever possible, like the 303 stainless. The 1144 also cuts quite nicely as long as the tools are kept sharp.

Online crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine
« Reply #29 on: September 23, 2019, 08:15:49 PM »
Got some time in the shop this afternoon, drilling more holes in end caps - two more caps done. Then got tired of the cranking on the mill, and decided to do some shaping over on the lathe. Since the first end cap was already bolted to the faceplate, that one got elected for first turning. Simple cap shape, turned in the shoulder, took the top to final height, and bevelled the corner.

The screws holding it to the faceplate got shortened slightly, but still plenty to grip. Here it is off the faceplate:

No ruler in the photos - the cap is 2.5" diameter, flange is .125 thick.  Will go back to drilling/tapping the other caps, alternating with turning them down to break up the 'boring' parts...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal