Chris's Marion Valve Winding Engine

[MJM460]

Hi Chris, I am another surprised at how compact your work area is, and all the more amazed that you were able to build a model as large as the Marion there.

The Winding engine is another interesting project.  I am learning something new each day.

MJM460

[Zephyrin]

very cosy setup you have !
on this large view one easily see the size of your build, as large as the machine tools, you could power the lathe with the steam engine...

[Flyboy Jim]

Nice setup Chris. I spent some time the other day looking for a picture of your shop set up and here one is.  I'm working on the design for my "roll around sit down Sherline shop" and this gives me some great ideas.

Oh yeah...............the parts look great as well!

Jim

[crueby]

Thanks all. This shop setup has worked out very well for me, and being on the ground floor steps from the center of the house it makes it easier to pop in for short sessions during the day.
Jim, if you start machining before the cast is off, be sure to tape up the ends, the itch from swarf in there would drive you nuts!!

[crueby]

This morning got started on the piston rod glands. First turned some discs down to fit the opening for the gland - since I am using o-rings, the gland holes were sized for the rings I had on hand, and the holes for the rod were drilled a few thou over the size of the rod to prevent any rubbing of steel on steel, letting the o-ring be the bearing surface.

Now I can move them over to the rotary table on the mill, to drill/tap the mounting holes and shape the disc down to the shape of the gland (will mill these parts and the bottom cap together for best match).

[scc]

Thanks for the work area photo Chris, it's amazing what can be done when lots of facilities are replaced by vast amounts of skill. As I age the thought of sitting in the shop gets more appealing.   Great work on  the winding engine.                 Terry

[crueby]

Terry, I got in the habit of sitting in the shop when I started working on ship models as a kid, just seems natural to me. Probably would not work as well on big machinery, but with tabletop stuff its great.

This afternoon got the piston rod glands drilled/tapped, with a bolt through the piston rod hole to hold the gland on the boss in the center of the cylinder cap. The holes don't go all the way through so I don't have to worry about pressure leaks from them later on.

With some bolts in those holes, then started milling back the excess on the glands:

That got the sides to dimension, once the second one is to that stage I'll angle the rotab and continue with the angle cuts either side of the screws, and finish the rounded bits with a file. No ruler in the shots - for scale reference, the flanges on the gland and boss on the cap are each .100 thick, cap is 2.5" diameter.

[Don1966]

Damn Dog I am gone for a while and just like that your on another excursion effortless. As always Chris very nice work. So I guess your going to sweat solder the steam chest on to these two cylinder as well. You don’t rest very much do you?  but as I would say .........I............like.........



 
Don

[crueby]

Damn Dog I am gone for a while and just like that your on another excursion effortless. As always Chris very nice work. So I guess your going to sweat solder the steam chest on to these two cylinder as well. You don’t rest very much do you?  but as I would say .........I............like.........



 
Don

Welcome back Don!




The steam chest base will be screwed to a flat on the cylinder, using the two inner screws at each end of the chest. The passages to the cylinder ends will be drilled parallel to the bores, then connect to the valve ports with short holes drilled perpendicular to the valve face. That way there will be no angled hole across the boundary and a paper gasket can seal it. Added benefit that the valve face stays separate, could be remade if needed for timing.

[crueby]

More on the piston rod glands today - got the second one down to width, then milled in the tapered sides, offset the rotab same angle both sides to get them even.

Here is how they came out, after a little sanding to round the ends and center:

Also got the flat on the first cylinder milled in for the steam chest base, one more to go... I had the crosshead guide attached to ensure that I was getting the steam chest flat lined up correctly.

[crueby]

Both cylinders now have the flat for the steam chest base (which will be screwed in place, not soldered). Family shot of parts so far:



Next parts will be the steam chest assemblies, bases/chest/lids.

Also, for those interested in the plans, I've been corresponding with Johnmcc, who is punching up my plans in another CAD package, they are looking awesome so far, we'll be posting those later on when they are done (at end of the build when we know the design doesn't need more changes).

[crueby]

Oh, and looking ahead towards the flywheel, I have ordered a very nice looking 6" heavywieght curved-spoke one from Martin Models, should have that soon. I think it will have enough room in the hub to do a tapered hub lock to attach it to the crankshaft.

[Kim]

Chris,
The cylinders and glands look great!
Sounds like you've got the flywheel figured out.   You just have to do it now
Kim

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello Chris,

That is some really beautiful machining work 

Have a great day,
Thomas

[derekwarner]

"steam chest base (which will be screwed in place, not soldered)"

Agree absolutely Chris.........

Soft soldered  could move or fall apart when 286.703 degrees F or 40 PSI is reached
Silver soldered  ......too much heat & possible distortion + hone polishing the cylinder bores after the process

Will you just use conventional brown paper gaskets? with your funny US sized bolt designations

Derek