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I think the Stanley block would be better done if 5 pieces. The two cylinders with the ports machined on them and small spigots on the ends. A central block with the round hole and then two end plates which will fit over the spigots and tie it all together. This Is how I was thinking of doing Julius' Musgrave engine and also how Ramon made the one piece block for his Stuart double ten in the "wide awake" thread. But then again if silver soldered you can do it in 3 and not need to bolt anything togetherLast option looks good too.
I find it is nice to do a simple engine, in between larger models and sometimes during their build Jo
No more like this, the cylinder have a circular spigot that fits into the plate which stops them moving outwards.http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2851.msg117544.html#msg117544Similar to how I do single cylinders but the end flanges would be more figure eight shaped.
Hey Chris,My vote ( that is if I get one ) would be the Marion valve engine in a scaled up version, they are really neat and you did a great job with the smaller version. Have a great day,Thomas
Crueby,Where did you get your plans for the Stanley engine? I built the Locomobile engine scaled up from Live Steam Magazine and it worked out great.Mike
It looks like the port faces on the Stanley could have been done with a shaper on the full size but the issue for the one off builder is the ports which would have been cored during casting and would be very hard to machine on a miniature let alone full size.If you do go with "Big Marion" My personal thoughts are that the crankshaft bearing supports look to be on the light side and compared to the cylinder/trunk guide part of the engine they look small, if doing it as a mill engine then I also think a larger flywheel would be more in keeping, what looks like a 4" flywheel is quite small for a 1.5x2 twin, possibly drop the whole engine down and have a slot in your display base or model a brick or stone base which would also reduce the need to have the engine raised on those legs. A lot of the RC truck and heavy plant model makers do use mini hydralic rams, it is a very popular hobby on mainland Europe particularly in Germany. Even some of the ready to run stuff is packed with functions that you could possibly transfer to yours rather than start from scratch
Wow that Ward! Great that you have the prints, and great work on the 3D model. That would be my choice but I understand it is a long term project!
Cutting the port faces on the full scale version. -Doug
Have you any other photos you can share ?
Doug, does the cutter mover back and forth, as on a shaper, or does it spin as well??
Hi Doug, Thanks for the info, those 2 photos of the sectioned engine are great!Now as to not posting more photos since this is a model site... oh yeah they would be for research for Chris’s build! Here’s the one Dads been working on....Cheers Kerrin
....Doug, The background is fascinating! Keep it coming! I’m sure Chris will be as appreciative as me !Cheers Kerrin
I think a lot of IC engine powered cars in the days of Stanley steamers had short life expectancy compared to cars today, so maybe Stanley were holding their own vs the car market without over engineering things and losing service revenue / new car sales. I've heard more than one car expert state that Model T Fords were expected to last two years or so between major rebuilds.For example one good overheat / boil dry incident in a Model T Ford (and many other gas powered IC cars) of the day would result in the bearing metal melting and running into the crankcase. The transmission bands in a Model T in hilly towns burned out rapidly, and pin / gear wear in them was usually severe. I've seen them with 1/8" wear in the pinion holes / pins. Good luck keeping suspension parts in one piece on the roads of the day! Got the elves working on a shaper attachment for the Sherline yet Chris ?
To build that Hydra sub you and the elves might have to step up your game a bit and make your own TEBLWC motors to mount in the nacelles. (Totally Enclosed Brush-Less Water Cooled, nuthin' but the best for the Hydra sub - HAIL HYDRA! Did I say that out loud?)The rest would just be a variation on the sub stuff you've already done wouldn't it.Don
Great looking actuator Chris! You'll be piling chicken grit with it in no time. Re the elves TV habit - One good fast slew with the Marion with bucket and dipper all the way out, right into that Elf-O-Vision unit would solve the issue - but your beer bill might go up again........ and there would be some bad language from Bucket Bob and crew.....
Chris,I have been following along but haven't said much, if anything. What about a Doble steam engine like in Jay Leno's Garage. Two cylinder gear driving the rear differential. Yeah I know late and foaming at the mouth, and talking incoherently. Art
I had not heard of the Doble engines before, just went and looked them up. More amazing engineering.
Quote from: cruebyI had not heard of the Doble engines before, just went and looked them up. More amazing engineering.Well you could start on something simple like the lubricator pump (see attached)…-Doug
Chris:Regarding the Hydra sub, I stumbled on this last night and thought you might be interested.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZL0jy6-SMsDon
Crueby,I don't check the forum very often. this is referring back to the question about the ports on the locomobile engine from Live Steam Magazine. I scaled it up x1.5, but the ports were easy because they were milled at an angle.Sorry to be so slow answering. Is the plan for the Stanley engine you have available?thanks Mike
Making it as a 3D printed version for the real model is pretty costly
Quote from: crueby on October 22, 2019, 03:09:54 PMMaking it as a 3D printed version for the real model is pretty costlyHow so? Other than the time required to print the stinkin' things, from you own 3D models the FDM 3D printed parts would be almost dirt cheap. Unless you have someone else print them, then it could get expensive, especially in SLA.Don
Crueby,On the locomobile engine I just milled the ports and then polished them a little with a block and sandpaper. If your friend gives you permission I would love to have a copy of the Stanley plans and would pay copy/shipping costs.Keep us posted if you build one. I will be making some kind of little steam car with this engine. It runs well. I milled the arms/crosshead rails from solid 1144 steel. It took a few hours. The cross drilling to the ports was nerve racking.Thanks, Mike
It is about a foot tall. [youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orpe3QFdWLQ[/youtube1] see it running on this link. I will try to track down my drawings.I scaled it up 1.5 from the drawings in Live SteamI runs rough in the movie because there is no flywheel