Author Topic: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel  (Read 2932 times)

Offline geoff5269

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How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« on: August 21, 2019, 08:37:33 PM »
I'm currently revisiting Lady Stephanie a Beam engine I built 8 years ago when I was a bit of a novice and found some of it a bit to challenging and didn't complete it as per drawings. But you can't forget you should have done more. so I am building another one starting with all the missed parts.
The current challenge is the 1/16 Beading on the side panels which has little quadrants in the corners with a 4mm radius, I have managed to make the parts but assembling them accurately is proving tricky. I feel I had a good idea for making the quadrants by using the lathe by hand to make a miniature ring roller.
Here are some pics. and one of a completed model that was for sale.
Geoff

Offline crueby

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2019, 08:49:06 PM »
Thats a tough one. I'd probably have made wood panels and carved the beads in.


Once you had the rings bent, how did you flatten one side?

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Offline b.lindsey

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2019, 10:46:04 PM »
The plans call for half round brass as well, but still a tricky task. Conversely the beading could be recessed instead of raised using a small ball end mill, not the same but a similar effect.

Bill

Offline Captain Jerry

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2019, 10:47:28 PM »
Here is my idea.  Sticking with the imperial scale, I make the outside of the ring to have a 7/16" dia. so I would start with a 7/16" rod in the lathe and drill a 5/16" hole in the end (inner diameter).   Using form tool, I would radius the outer and inner surface to give me a half round ring on the rod end.  You could also do it with a file and or a graver if you have a good eye.  Part it off and you have a half round ring.  Be cause of the way the mitre has to be cut, you will need 2 rings for each face. for a total of eight rings


To cut the mitre accurately, I would glue all of the rings on to a scrap of aluminum, using a straight edge to line them up. A few careful passes down each side of the row of rings with an end mill taking a total of 1/16" of the outer diameter and you will wind up with 16 pieces of ring, properly mitered to joint with a 45 degree mitre on the ends of the straight pieces.


Easy Peasy.


I did exactly this same thing about thirty years ago on a mahogany box for my daughter only the molding was bead and cove and the radius was about 1.5" so I had to cut the circles on the face plate.   I know it sounds wrong that the two faces of the 1/4 circle ring should be cut parallel but that is what it takes.  If I was on my other computer, I would draw it up for you. 


Jerry
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Offline Jo

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2019, 08:04:34 AM »
The side panels are available as etchings with the central beading already done  ::)

If you are painting it there is no reason for the decoration to be made of brass you could stick plastic shapes on the panels.

Jo
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Online Jasonb

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2019, 08:43:44 AM »
To help locate the beads you could mill the outside area a few thou shallower so that there is an edge to locate the beads against. If the plate and back of the beading is tinned first than the beads can be clipped down in position and you would just need to touch the tops with a soldering iron to sweat each piece into place, that's how I have fixed it on traction engine tenders.

Alternative would be to start with thicker stock and use a 1/32" corner rounding milling cutter to leave the 4 straight lengths raised then just solder on the corners.

As Jerry says form tool to make the corners on the end of a rod then part off

Jo, does the etched option give a half round or just a rectangular section moulding?

Offline Jo

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2019, 09:09:16 AM »
Jo, does the etched option give a half round or just a rectangular section moulding?

I would like to see etching that is able to give 3D profiling... It is the same as etched name plates: the masked off bit is left high and the rest is etched away. The plates I brought for my Lady S were very good.


There is no reason why the decoration needs to stick up it could be cut in or you could mill the etching in and add some round bits of brass by soft soldering if you want it to have a curved profile (flat topped is easier to paint  ;) )

Jo
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Online Jasonb

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2019, 09:15:54 AM »
But the paint chips off the corners more easily :LittleDevil:

Another option that would not look to bad is to just have a raised panel along the lines of the Otto Langen, which is basically the same as machining the recess I suggested earlier but just deeper.


Offline Captain Jerry

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2019, 05:13:43 PM »
I guess I could have gone a little further.  Of course you will need the straight pieces of half round cut to proper length with a 45 deg mitre on each end. I don't know if it can be purchased but it could easily formed on the edge of a 1/16" plate and sawed off with a slitting saw. 


The problem of arranging the pieces accurately can be made easier if there were something to butt them up against.  You could easily mill a thin piece of brass to the size and shape of the inner perimeter of the pattern.  You could use any material for the pattern.  It will be removed after the molding is applied.  You could use aluminum or even card stock for the pattern.  I think I like the idea of card stock which could be easily cut to shape with a sharp knife and applied with an easily removable glue. 


Jerry
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Online Jasonb

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2019, 05:27:29 PM »
Quite easy to mill your own beading. Just a block with a horizontal hole, in this case 1/16". Plunge in with a milling cutter to mid depth of te hole and then push your 1/16" stock through the hole.

One id made earlier

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Rzp9IJBjs" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Rzp9IJBjs</a>

Offline Craig DeShong

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2019, 08:52:20 PM »
Pretty cool Jason, I knew there was a reason I joined this forum  ::)
Craig
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Offline crueby

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #12 on: August 22, 2019, 08:53:03 PM »
Quite easy to mill your own beading. Just a block with a horizontal hole, in this case 1/16". Plunge in with a milling cutter to mid depth of te hole and then push your 1/16" stock through the hole.

One id made earlier

[youtube1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Rzp9IJBjs[/youtube1]
Slick setup!  Could it work on the curved sections for the corners somehow?

Offline Jo

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2019, 07:04:46 AM »
Just a block with a horizontal hole, in this case 1/16". Plunge in with a milling cutter to mid depth of te hole and then push your 1/16" stock through the hole.

Looks like your workshop gnome has learnt to use your milling machine JB if that stock is 1/16" diameter  :stir:

Jo
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Online Jasonb

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Re: How would you do this, Beading on Lady Stephanie side panel
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2019, 07:53:00 AM »
"This case" refers to the size needed for the lady S

I think the one in the video was a bit bigger at 3/16" or maybe 5/32". Same principal but easier to push the smaller stuff through.


And just for another method that should work, if you mill out a negative version using a 1/16" ball ended cutter you could then burnish a sheet of thin copper shim over the form. Then glue or soft solder that to the thicker panels. I have seen this done to produve tread plate checker pattern to good effect, The glue or solder fills the void behind the raised copper so it does not dent.


 

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