Welcome to ModelEngineMaker !If you have problems registering or logging in, please use the contact menu option to request assistance.
Cutter grinders look to be very expensive that side of the pond Jo
Up until yesterday, My money would be on,......as far as home shop cutter grinders designs is concerned....The Glen Wilson design...it's specifically for lathe tools and end mills...both tips and flutes, and has an air bearing....though I think he had a large quantity of bits of Coldrolled steel....because everything was made up of many bits. I'd probably combine some parts and reduce parts count.An ER20 collet in the air spindle would be the way to go for me I think. The design tilts the work head such that the front face of the spindle centerline is the origin of rotation...which makes set up pretty easy.
Quote from: steamer on August 21, 2019, 02:07:06 PMUp until yesterday, My money would be on,......as far as home shop cutter grinders designs is concerned....The Glen Wilson design...it's specifically for lathe tools and end mills...both tips and flutes, and has an air bearing....though I think he had a large quantity of bits of Coldrolled steel....because everything was made up of many bits. I'd probably combine some parts and reduce parts count.An ER20 collet in the air spindle would be the way to go for me I think. The design tilts the work head such that the front face of the spindle centerline is the origin of rotation...which makes set up pretty easy.From the pictures, that design seems to completely ignore the desirability of keeping grinding grit out of the works.
Quote from: ChuckKey on August 23, 2019, 10:43:23 PMQuote from: steamer on August 21, 2019, 02:07:06 PMUp until yesterday, My money would be on,......as far as home shop cutter grinders designs is concerned....The Glen Wilson design...it's specifically for lathe tools and end mills...both tips and flutes, and has an air bearing....though I think he had a large quantity of bits of Coldrolled steel....because everything was made up of many bits. I'd probably combine some parts and reduce parts count.An ER20 collet in the air spindle would be the way to go for me I think. The design tilts the work head such that the front face of the spindle centerline is the origin of rotation...which makes set up pretty easy.From the pictures, that design seems to completely ignore the desirability of keeping grinding grit out of the works.Only the top slide bearings....the bottom slides are covered....the quorn is far worse...
The mk3 really does look to be quite impressive. I use a Deckel SO cutter grinder quite often. Mainly D bits or special shaped single edge tools.It is all exposed slides etc. We just brush it down before moving anything and keep it clean. I think the real secret is to keep it clean and dry. Any oil anywhere just becomes a lapping pastes and they wear out real quick. Keeping all the edges next to the shafts etc very sharp and not de burred , also help to keep the junk out too.A second hand Deckel grinder goes for over 3k, while a new Asian one is like near 2k but not as good as a near worn out Deckel.I would be keen to hear from anyone who has made the kit, or from plans, what they think of the finished machine.Neil
Dave I have built a mk2 years ago but fitted a 300w three phase motor with a vfd , it was cheaper than the preferred face mount single phase one I built the head with a er Collette holder with a 100mm long shaft much like the mk3 pics show The fast thread for the rise and fall could be subtiuted the a feed screw on the load side of the column much like a cross slide but verticalIt’s only there to help with the adjustment but as drawn it by the prof. It has a vertical slot to enable quick up and down, so if you do not lock the stop coller it can drop on you , if I built one now I would use a feed screw to lift the head may be slower but it safer , you rarely have to move the head vertically any way ,then only small amounts . The rocking screws in the head take care of the very small adjustments Stuart
Dave The quorn will do the end of a milling cutter okBut on anything less than 12mm it’s a bit hit and miss on the flutes , the difficulty is there is no provision to retract the cut , you use a finger run off the end but then it’s difficult to get back to the startAlso you really need a air bearing work head to control the end mill smoothly enough As to form tools I chicken out on those , as I only do hobby work for myself I use gauge plate (soft tool steel) a tapered end mill and let the CNC mill do it’s thing , harden and draw it back a bit , lap the top surface and bobs your uncle a form tool , personally I think for my use it’s a better solution StuartPlease do not let my remarks put any one off from making one it’s one hell of a project as you need to work to a high standard else the resultant grinding will show up your errors