MEM Corliss Attempt

[Jim Nic]

Coming along nicely Larry. 
Just some fiddly valve bits and a flywheel and she'll be ready to roll.
When I did my valves I made them as one piece, as others before me did, and I made a shallow slot on the back end in line with the valve face which can just be seen in the attached picture and made adjusting the timing easier.

Jim

[Larry]

Thanks Vince for the kind comment. You have a great build log and I follow it closely. Thanks Jim Nic for that suggestion. I will certainly consider that. Looks much better than dealing with 2 parts.

CLEVIS HEAD (Eccentric Rods) - I machined a short piece of brass (3/16" x 1/4") and made a clevis head on each end. A .098 hole was drilled in the end with a #40 drill. The slot was cut in each end using a .063 slitting saw. The parts were then cut off, finished to length and the ends were drilled and threaded #5-40 for a 1/8" rod.

9149 - Short piece of brass 3/16" x 1/4".
9150 - Drill .098 hole in the end with a #40 drill.
9152 - Cut the slot with a .063 slitting saw.
9156 - Center and drill .101 hole in end.
9157 - Thread end #5-40 for a 1/8" rod.
9159 - Finished parts.

[Larry]

ECCENTRIC RODS - Two pieces of 1/8" rod were cut to length. The straight rod (3.166") was threaded #5-40 on both ends. The rod with 2 bends (about 4.600") was threaded #5-40 on one end before bending. My bending techniques are not the best but maybe I can make it work. A couple of #5-40 nuts were put on to use as lock nuts. These may or may not be necessary.

9161 - Eccentric rods with clevis heads.
9163 - Eccentric rods with clevis heads.

[Larry]

ECCENTRIC SWIVEL SCREW - A piece of 1/4" brass rod was chucked in a collet and the end was turned to 1/8" (.125) for a length of .235. The piece was cut to length (.485) turned around  and the opposite end drilled and tapped #3-48 for a locking screw. It was then mounted in a collet block in the mill and a 1/8" (.125) cross hole was centered & drilled. It was then moved back to the lathe and the 1/8" end was threaded #5-40 for a length of .110. This completes the part. Several pictures are shown with it mounted on a 1/8" eccentric rod with a #5-40 nut and a #3-48 locking screw.

9165 - Turn one end to 1/8"(.125) for a length of .235 and cut to length.
9166 - Drill & thread opposite end #3-48 for locking screw.
9169 - Mount in a collet block in the mill - center & drill a 1/8" (.125) cross hole.
9171 - Chuck in the lathe & thread the 1/8" end #5-40 for a length of .110.
9173 - Completed part.
9176 - Mounted on a 1/8" eccentric rod with a #5-40 nut and a #3-48 locking screw.
9178 - Close up view of same.

[Flyboy Jim]

Good explanation and pictures Larry. Well done. 

Jim

[Larry]

REAR VALVE BONNET - Two pieces were cut from a piece of .063 (1/16") thick sheet brass about 3" long and machined to a width of .625 (5/8"). A bonnet was made from each end and machined to a .625 (5/8")square. Mounting holes were drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.

9180 - Two pieces of .063 (1/16") thick sheet brass about 3" long and machined to a width of .625 (5/8").
9182 - A bonnet was made from each end and machined to a .625 (5/8") square.
9183 - Four pieces machined to .625 (5/8") square.
9187 - Mounting holes drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.
9188 - Completed pieces.

[Larry]

FRONT VALVE BONNET - I had a piece of brass bar that measured 2 1/4" wide by .641 thick. I cut off a piece about 7/8" wide and machined all sides to .625 (5/8") square. This was mounted in a 5/8" square collet. A center hole was drilled with a #31 drill (.120) and reamed to .125 (1/8"). The end was turned to .375 (3/8") diameter. The first piece was cut off and the .375 (3/8") diameter was mounted in a 3/8" collet. The square end was faced off to dimension. Mounting holes were drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill. The .313 (5/16") counter bore was omitted but could be added later if required. Four pieces were made this way.

9196 - Brass block machined to .625 (5/8") square by 2 1/4" long.
9192 - Brass block .625 (5/8") square mounted in a 5/8" square collet. A center hole (.120) was drilled with a #31 drill.
9195 - Center hole was reamed to .125 (1/8").
9200 - The end was turned to .375 (3/8") diameter & faced.
9202 - The first piece was cut off.
9206 - The .375 (3/8") diameter was mounted in a 3/8" collet and the square end was faced off to dimension.
9216 - Mounting holes drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.
9217 - Completed pieces.

[Jim Nic]

Hi Larry

A good description of the valve bonnet manufacture.  I note that you omitted the counterbore in the back faces.  I don't recall what the intended purpose of this feature is, possibly something to do with the 2 part valves, but I used it to locate an O ring seal to stop any air leakage through the bonnet past the valve spindle.   If you decide to do this the size of the recess would need to be adjusted to suit whatever size of seal you used.
The seals are not shown fitted below.

Jim

[Larry]

VALVE - The valves were made from a piece of 12L14 1/4" rod using the one piece construction. Four pieces were cut to a length of 2.657". I built a jig basically following Vince's method. A 1/4" ball nose end mill was used to cut a circular groove .110" deep. The jig was designed for two milling operations - the center cut out and the end slot. A stop was added at one end, two clamping bars and a relief at the other end for the slitting saw. A depth gage was made to align the cut out parallel to the jig for cutting the end slot. A valve rod was clamped in the jig and the 5/8" x 1/8" cut out was milled. This was done 4 times in order to use the same setup. The valve rod was then clamped in the jig using the depth gage so the cut out was parallel to the base of the jig. A slot was cut in the back end using a .052" thick slitting saw and .050 " deep. The valve rod was then chucked in the lathe and the end turned to .125" diameter. Finished valves are shown with a couple of front valve bonnets.

181014149 - Valve machining jig - 1/4" circular groove lengthwise, .110" deep. Stop at one end, two clamping bars & relief at other end for slitting saw.
181118147 - Valve machining jig with one bar removed.
9226 - Milling 5/8" x 1/8" cut out in valve.
175213714 - Valve clamped with cut out parallel to jig base showing depth gage.
175311011 - Same as above - different view.
9239 - Milling slot in back end with .052" thick slitting saw and .050" deep.
160435668 - End of valve turned to .125" diameter.
195657461 - Finished valves shown with a couple of front valve bonnets.

[Larry]

VALVE LEVER - The design of the Valve Lever was changed from the original drawing so that it could be clamped to the valve shaft. I basically followed Vince's method. I cut a piece of .125 (1/8") thick brass plate about 4 1/2" long and machined it to .230" wide. It was then cut into 4 equal lengths and one end of each was finished for location of dimensions. The small hole .076" diameter (#48 drill) was located and drilled. This is for a #1-72 screw. The large hole was located and drilled .120" diameter (#31 drill) and reamed to .125 (1/8"). This hole will be clamped to the end of the valve. The piece was located on the edge and the clamping hole .076" diameter (#48 drill) was located and drilled. A slot was then cut across the clamping hole with a .014" thick slitting saw. The pieces were finished to a length of .740". The end with the small hole was rounded on the belt sander. The last picture shows the Valve Levers temporarily mounted on the valves in the block.

131855490 - Cut a piece of .125 (1/8") thick brass plate about 4 1/2" long and machined it to .230" wide.
140646210 - Cut into 4 equal lengths and one end of each was finished for location of dimensions.
171215093 - Locate and drill the small hole .076" diameter (#48 drill). This is for a #1-72 screw.
172629932 - Locate and drill the .120" diameter hole (#31 drill).
174139525 - Ream above hole to .125 (1/8"). This hole will be clamped to the end of the valve.
9283 - Locate piece on edge and locate and drill the clamping hole .076"diameter (#48 drill).
9286 - Cut a slot across the clamping hole with a .014" thick slitting saw.

[Larry]

VALVE LEVER (continued - see above) ---

173327585 - Finish pieces to a length of .740" and round end with small hole on the belt sander.
174041570 - Finished pieces are temporarily mounted on the Valves in the block.

[crueby]

Great looking valve arms, those detail parts really make the look of the engine.   

[kvom]

Looks like you're spending quality time in the shop with the self-isolation.   

[Larry]

DISK ARM - The Disk Arms were made in one piece starting with a piece of 5/16" hex brass rod. Five pieces (one extra) were cut 2" long allowing extra length for holding. Here again I basically followed Vince's method. The ends were faced off on the lathe. A collet block with a 5/16" collet was mounted in the mill vise. Each piece was clamped in the collet and the loose end was supported with a machinist jack. Two .076" (#48 drill) holes were drilled in the center of a hex side. .612" center to center (per drawing). Each piece was center drilled so it could be supported in the lathe tail stock with live center for turning later. I modified the jig that was used for the valves and added clamps to the back side for holding each piece to mill the flat section. Each center section was milled .094" thick using a 5/16" 4 FL end mill. I only had one carriage stop for my lathe so I made a second one for the right hand side of the carriage so I could more accurately turn the spindle arm. Each piece was mounted on the lathe using a 5/16" collet in the chuck and the opposite end was supported by a live center using the center drilled hole as previously described. Carriage stops were used on each side of the carriage to get an approximate length of .312" using the "eyeball" method. Each spindle was turned to a .070 / .075" diameter. Ends were cut off in the mill using a .016" slitting saw. Set up rotary table with small chuck on the mill and centered under spindle. Used a short piece of .375 (3/8)" rod and turned one end to about .183" diameter. Drilled & threaded a center hole in rod #1-72 for mounting Disk Arm & machined a radius using a 5/64" 4 FL end mill. The radius from center is .094" + .039" = .133". I forgot to include 1/2 radius of end mill on the first cut - glad I made one extra! The corners were filed to finish.

9294 - A 2" long piece of 5/16" hex brass rod was clamped in a collet block and one end was supported with a machinist jack. Two .076" (#48 drill) holes were drilled in
           the center of a hex side .612" center to center (per drawing).

163237915 - Each piece was center drilled so it could be supported with a live center for turning the spindle later.

9300 - Valve jig was modified and clamps added to the back for holding each piece to mill the flat section. Each center section was milled .094" thick using a 5/16" 4 FL
           end mill.

9303 - I made a second carriage stop for the right hand side so I could more accurately turn the spindle arm.

9305 - Carriage stop mounted on lathe.

9308 - Left end mounted in 5/16" collet and right end supported by live center using center drilled hole as previously described. Center distance was marked on each
           piece and lathe tool aligned using the "eyeball" method.

131515557 - Each piece was turned to a .070 / .075" diameter for an approximate length of .312" . Carriage stops were used on each side of carriage.

132724665 - Center section (spindle) complete prior to ends being cut off.

[Larry]

DISK ARM (continued - see above) ----

9321 - Ends were cut off using a .016" slitting saw.

180522078 - Disk Arms with ends cut off.

9331 - Set up rotary table with small chuck and center under mill spindle.

9325 - Used a short piece of .375 (3/8)" rod and turned one end to about .183" diameter. Drilled & threaded a center hole in rod # 1-72 for mounting Disk Arm. Machined
           a radius of .133" (.094 + .039) using a 5/64" 4 FL end mill.

172737886 - Disk Arms complete. Corners were filed to finish.