Author Topic: MEM Corliss Attempt  (Read 1709 times)

Offline Larry

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MEM Corliss Attempt
« on: May 26, 2019, 03:05:19 AM »
To paraphrase an old saying "I may have bitten off more than I can chew" may very well apply here but we will see where this goes. I must confess that I started this last July with a few simple parts. I did not have anything in my scrap that could be used for the block and didn't want to progress any further until I gave this a try. I ordered a piece of 12L14 from McMaster-Carr and drove over to their distribution center to pick it up. I was impressed with their facility. There are 3 excellent build logs that I know about & have studied:
Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss (Arnold b - Arnold)
Vince's version of the MEM Corliss (Vcutajar - Vince)
Chris Built-up MEM Corliss build (Crueby - Chris)

Getting started with a couple of pictures - cut the bar to approximate length allowing enough to finish the ends. Used a small face mill to square up the sides.

Offline crueby

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2019, 03:34:02 AM »
Hi Larry,


The MEM Corliss is well worth the effort for chewing on, wonderful engine. Take it one step at a time, and you will get there. Great to see another one under way, and I will be watching along, sure to have plenty of company.


 :popcornsmall:


Chris

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2019, 03:51:10 AM »
This is great Larry. Looking forward to following along as well.

Bill

Offline Jo

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2019, 06:35:16 AM »
Nice to see another being built.  :)

Jo
Usus est optimum magister

Offline vcutajar

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2019, 08:26:04 AM »
Hi Larry

Nice to see another MEM Corliss being built.  Will be surely following your progress as it will evoke good memories of when I did mine.

Vince

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2019, 03:31:01 AM »
I have very little experience in using a 4 jaw chuck but decided I could get a better finish in the lathe. I centered the block as best as I could with a dial indicator. I started the center hole with about a 1/4" drill & progressed up to about 7/8"  so I could use my 3/4" boring bar. I was very well pleased with the bore except there is about .004 difference in hole diameter from end to end. Hopefully that can be worked out later with a hone or some other method.
Begin boring.
Begin boring.
Facing ends to length.
Facing ends to length.

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2019, 04:09:51 AM »
I laid out the dimensions for the steam / exhaust passage holes & the associated recess / flat surface for drilling. I do not have an angle vise so I clamped the block in my mill vise using 5 & 10 degree angle blocks & double checked with an angle meter. I then milled a flat surface, center drilled & drilled 5 passage holes.

Block marked  for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Block in vise on 5 & 10 degree angle blocks with angle meter.
Block - located "Y" dimension with edge finder, located "X" dimension using scribe pointer (Probably not the best way but I think it will work & be close enough).
Mill recess with flat surface for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Center drill for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Drill steam / exhaust passage holes.
Holes on one side complete.
View of holes from inside bore.

Offline crueby

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2019, 04:21:08 AM »
Well done, following along...


 :popcornsmall:

Offline JackPick

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2019, 06:05:53 AM »
I'll be following too Larry. I'm considering this for my next build.
Cheers John

Online Jim Nic

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2019, 09:47:25 AM »
Nice result on the steam passages Larry.  The engine is coming along nicely.
Jim
The person who never made a mistake never made anything.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2019, 03:00:44 PM »
You are really coming along on that cylinder Larry. Following along here too so please keep it coming :)

Bill

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2019, 07:29:25 PM »
Hello Larry,

Nice work on the cylinder.

Have a great day,
Thomas

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2019, 02:56:49 AM »
Thanks guys for the kind comments. The next few pictures show drilling, reaming & threading for valves & valve bonnets.

Drilled holes for valves.
Reamed 1/4" holes for valves.
Drilled holes for valve bonnets.
Threaded #2-56 holes for valve bonnets.

Offline crueby

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2019, 03:30:10 AM »
Moving right along with the build, great progress.


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Online Jim Nic

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2019, 10:24:40 AM »
Moving right along there Larry.
Considering the valves and bonnets, the plan calls for 2 piece valves.  I made mine in one piece, and if my memory serves me correctly, as did Vince Cutajar.  I also made a recess in the bonnet to take a small O ring seal although I'm not sure this is really necessary.
Jim



The person who never made a mistake never made anything.

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2019, 04:54:59 AM »
Thanks Jim Nic for the information & pictures on the valves. You are correct - Vince & Arnold both made one piece valves. I just looked it up. I have not progressed that far but it looks like that may be the way to go. I will make note of it.

Centered block in preparation for drilling cylinder cover holes. I did not get a picture of locating cylinder cover holes but that same operation will be shown when making the cylinder covers.

Chain drilled holes in preparation for milling steam chest pockets.

Offline tvoght

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #16 on: June 01, 2019, 06:58:37 PM »
I'll be following as time allows, Larry. Good progress photos & descriptions.
--Tim

Offline scc

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2019, 10:30:03 PM »
Me too :popcorn: enjoying every bit!           Terry

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #18 on: June 02, 2019, 03:49:58 AM »
Your comments are really appreciated. I completed drilling all the remaining hole patterns & milled the steam chest pockets.

Milling steam chest pockets (3 pictures).
Block side view (top).
Block opposite side view (bottom).
Block vertical view.

Offline vcutajar

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #19 on: June 02, 2019, 04:13:21 AM »
Cylinder block looking great.  That was very quick.

Vince

Offline kvom

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #20 on: June 02, 2019, 02:40:40 PM »
Holy holes batman!   :ThumbsUp:

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #21 on: June 02, 2019, 02:42:56 PM »
Swiss cheese anyone  :o. Seriously though, it looks great Larry!!

Bill

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #22 on: June 03, 2019, 03:23:43 AM »
Thanks again for the comments.  Vince, not really - those pictures of the block covered a period of 145 days - not working continuously.

I found a piece of scrap to use for the front cylinder cover. It was probably 1018 since it machined very well. I calculate my hole pattern (X & Y dimensions from center) using the co-ordinates for locating equally spaced holes in jig boring. I center the part in the mill using a CO-AX indicator & locate the holes using the DRO.

Cleaning up scrap piece to 1 5/8" diameter.
Facing end.
Drilling hole pattern (2 pictures).
Cut off.
Finished part.

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #23 on: June 05, 2019, 04:26:53 AM »
I used a piece of 2" diam. 1018 steel for the rear cylinder cover. I faced & turned the .625 diam.; center drilled, drilled & reamed the .25 thru hole; bored & threaded 7/16-32 which is what I happened to have. Will continue in next post.

Facing 2" diam. 1018 steel.
Center drilled & drilled .25 thru hole.
Reamed .25 center thru hole.
Bored hole for threads.
Threaded 7/16-32.
Completed thread.

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #24 on: June 05, 2019, 10:22:16 AM »
Hello Larry,

Enjoying your work and following along.

Have a great day,
Thomas

Offline Mike Bondarczuk

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #25 on: June 05, 2019, 11:04:01 AM »
Hi Larry,

Excellent build log so far and am enjoying the detail to attention as well as the progress.

Have downloaded the drawings and looking to see if I may build one as well in the very near future.

Mike
"Everything I can't find is in a totally secure place"

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #26 on: June 06, 2019, 04:38:13 AM »
Finishing the rear cylinder cover. I cut off the partially machined part & chucked the .625 diam. end in a collet & then turned the 1.125 diam. This finished the machining & I centered the part in the mill vise using a CO-AX indicator, then drilled the hole pattern.

Cut off.
Turning the 1.125 diam.
Center in mill vise with CO-AX indicator.
Drill hole pattern.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2019, 01:50:40 PM »
Looking good Larry!!  Those Coax indicators a nice to use...makes centering things a breeze.

Bill

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #28 on: June 08, 2019, 03:07:40 AM »
I made the steam & exhaust cover plates from a piece of 1/4" brass. After cutting to approximate length I cut the piece in half using a slitting saw (Thunk, Thunk, Thunk ). The sides & ends were milled to size and the outside edge hole pattern was drilled using the DRO to locate holes. The center 1/4" hole was drilled & reamed. The ends were milled to 1/8" leaving the 7/8" wide center section to be turned.

Cut in half with slitting saw.
Milling side to size.
Milling end to size.
Drilling outside edge hole pattern.
Drilled center 1/4" hole.
Reamed center 1/4" hole to size.
Milled each end to 1/8" leaving center section to be turned.
Partially finished steam & exhaust cover plates.

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #29 on: June 08, 2019, 03:27:59 AM »
I took an idea from Vince but used a different method to turn the 7/8" wide center section. I made a small fixture from some scrap aluminum, located a center hole under the mill spindle, bolted the plate to the fixture using a spacer and centered under the mill spindle. Using the boring head with a boring bar inserted opposite the normal way, I ran the mill in reverse to turn the 7/8" diameter center section. The mill was used as a lathe and I was pleased with the final result.

Scrap aluminum fixture showing locating hole, locating pin, bolt & spacer.
Fixture with cover plate clamped in place.
Fixture with cover plate bolted in place & centered under mill spindle. Boring bar is ready to turn.
Turning partially complete.
Turning complete.
Finished plates.

Offline Kim

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #30 on: June 08, 2019, 05:45:22 AM »
Nice work, Larry.

I thought I heard someone using a slitting saw earlier... (thunk, thunk, thunk).  :Lol:

Kim

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #31 on: June 11, 2019, 03:41:28 AM »
I made the Crosshead Guide in two pieces and put them together with Loctite 609. The guide was made from a piece of 1 1/8" 12L14 round bar. It was chucked in a collet and a 1/4" pilot hole was drilled. Using a series of drills I progressed up so I could use my 3/4" boring bar to finish a 7/8" diam. hole. It was cut to length & mounted in the mill vise. The slot was cut in several operations and finished with a 5/8" end mill.

Guide is bored to 7/8" diam.
Mounted in mill vise & slot cut to 5/8" (4 pictures).

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #32 on: June 11, 2019, 03:56:27 AM »
The flange was made from a piece of scrap. It was turned to size and the center hole bored to 1 1/8". It was then centered in the mill vise and the outer hole pattern was drilled using the DRO ( no pictures). The flange was cut off & faced to 1/8" thickness. The two parts were very carefully aligned & put together with Loctite 609. I would like to get a Loctite that didn't set up quite as fast.

Scrap piece chucked in 3 jaw & center hole bored to 1 1/8".
Flange is cut off.
Flange separated from scrap piece.
Flange & guide with Loctite 609.
Completed assembly.
Completed assembly.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #33 on: June 11, 2019, 02:26:24 PM »
More great progress Larry. Still following along with interest here.

Bill

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #34 on: Today at 02:52:02 AM »
The gland nut was made from a piece of 5/8" hex brass rod. This was turned to 7/16" and threaded 7/16-32 since that is what I had available. A center hole was drilled & reamed to .251. The part was cut off to dimension & faced leaving a 1/8" wide x 5/8" hex nut on the end. I did not get a picture of the finished part but it will be shown later.

Turned to 7/16" diameter.
Threaded with a 7/16-32 die.
Drilling center hole.
Reaming center hole to .251 for piston rod.

Offline Larry

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #35 on: Today at 04:04:00 AM »
The crosshead was made from a piece of 1" diameter brass rod turned to 7/8" (.875) diameter. The center hole was drilled 1/4" deep & threaded #10-32. It was then mounted in a collet block in the mill vise & the sides milled to 3/8" (.375) width. The center hole on the flat surface was drilled & reamed to .25 for the pin. The machined part was cut off & mounted in the mill vise & the ends milled to a finish length of 7/8" (.875).

Turn piece of 1" diameter brass rod to 7/8" (.875).
Drill center hole 1/4" deep.
Thread center hole #10-32.
Mount in collet block in mill vise & mill sides to 3/8" (.375) width.
Milling both sides to 3/8" (.375).
Drill center hole on flat surface & ream .25 for pin.
Cut off.
Mount in mill vise & finish end to 7/8" (.875) length.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
« Reply #36 on: Today at 02:12:35 PM »
Full steam ahead I see Larry. Always nice to see an update on this one.

Bill